L
i
l
o
u
2
Lilou-2 – appendix 4 – rev 1
-
S
Structure assembly t
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1 L
i
l Bulkheads preparation: o
u
Glue the trims protecting the plywood 2
-
edges in upper parts
S
t
r
u
Important: c
t Bulkheads are not bevelled u
r
e
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2 L
i
l Bulkheads preparation: o u
Glue the rabbet on the mast bulkhead (fore face) 2
-
for the fore locker shutter.
S
t
Glue the batten/cleat 22 x 22 as shown. r
u
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3 L
i
l
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u
Fore bulkhead, aft face:
2
Glue the batten/cleat 22 x 22 as shown. -
S
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4 L
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u
2
Aft bulkhead, fore face: -
Glue the batten/cleat 22 x 22 as shown. S
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5 L
i
l
o
u
The bulkheads of the buoyancy compartment (fore bulkhead 2
-
and sides of the motor well) are fitted with dinghy type
S watertight hatch covers. Overall diameter is maximum 250 mm. t
r
u
Buy them in advance to make the cut-out before assembling of c
t these parts (it will be more difficult to cut at a later stage). u
r
e
Note the motor support and the doubler glued inside the
a buoyancy compartment. The doubler is glued now, but the s
s
e
support will be screwed later according to the actual motor. m
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6 L
i
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u
2
Dinghy hatch covers give access to the water
-
ballast and the bilge pump suction space. S
t
r
Maximum overall diameter is 220 mm. u
c
Cut-out may be done at a later stage, just t
u
r
before the panel is glued down. e
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7 L
i
l
o
u
The transom is made of two glued layers. The 2
-
inner layer has mortices to receive the motor well
S
bulkheads ends and the gunwales. t
r
u
Re-drill (4 mm diameter) the holes for the c
t assembly ties. u
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8 L
i
l
o
Hull strakes are made of three parts. u
Indents are located at the aft end. The number of indents allows 2
-
identifying each strake (o for strake 1, 1 for strake 2, etc.). S
t
Use temporary planks to sandwich the glueing zone to get a perfect r
u
alignment in the same level. c
t
u
Sheath the joint area on the inner face (300 g/m² cloth) extending r
e
about 50 mm out of the joint. a
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9 L
i
l Assemble the backbone, including the centreboard case. o
u
This ensemble is made of 6 layers : 2
-
Outer layer (in blue), interrupted in the centreboard area,
S
Intermediate layer (in green) with a vertical cut for the t
r
u
centreboard pivot, c
t Outer layer (in pink) which double the intermediate layer u
r
e
in the centreboard area.
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It is essential to glue these layers on a perfectly flat surface. Use screws to avoid any slippage of the parts when glueing. The screws will be at first temporarily inserted dry. Add also screws in the more stressed areas, in particular into the posts
and spacers of the centreboard case. 10 L
i
l
o
u
Assemble the cradle intended to support
2
the hull during assembly. -
S
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11 L
i
l
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u
Lay down the garboards (lower hull strakes)
2
on the cradle. -
S
The overhang aft is 1 062 mm, measured t
r along the centre edge. u
c
t
It is recommended to wire stitches on the u
r « book-folded » garboards and then to open e
a them. s
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12 L
i
l
o
u
Stitch the hull strakes as per the method 2
described in sheet 51. -
S
At the stem, stitch together the port and t
r
u
starboard strakes. c
t As a rule, do not tighten too much the ties, as u
r
e
you will have to insert epoxy putty later.
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13 L
i
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u
2
The last strake (sheer-strake) is of the
-
clinker type, overlapping the previous one. S
t
r
The overlap width is 20 mm about. It is u
c stitched with ties like the others. At the fore- t
u
r
end, the strake 3 is simply cut-out to allow e
the sheer-strakes to join at the stem. a
s
s
An epoxy fillet will be added at a later stage e to close the remaining void spaces. A small m
b
l patch of cloth may also be added. y
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Note: when we write "epoxy fillet", or r
e
"epoxy putty", or simply "epoxy" or « glue », v
1
it means the same mix of epoxy and fillers used for various uses.
14 L
i
l
o
Lay down the five main bulkheads, temporarily u
stitched with ties. The existing holes into the hull 2
-
give the position of these bulkheads. It is not S
t necessary to put down all ties. This task aims to r
u check that the bulkheads may be inserted c
t
u
correctly into the hull. r
e
Do the same for the transom. The strakes extend a
s the outer face of the transom by 2 mm about. s
e
Keep a 2 mm space between transom and m
b
strakes to give some reservation for the epoxy l
y
filler to be done at a later stage. –
Mark the cut-outs for the backbone, aft 2
6 of bulkhead 1, and between
J
a
bulkheads 2 and 3. n
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15 L
i
l
o
u
"Weld", with epoxy putty, the hull strakes on the outer side, 2
-
between each tie.
S
Weld also the planking to the transom, inserting the putty t
r
u
carefully on the full width of the transom. c
t Take out all hull ties. u
r
e
Mark the bulkhead position and take them off.
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16 L
i
l
o
Make epoxy fillets on the inside face of hull joints. As the u
angles are very opened, their thickness is small. Add on 2
-
these joints a glass tape, sheathed with epoxy. For the S
t clinker joint, make just a discreet epoxy fillet into the joint, r
u and a stronger one at the fore-end. c
t
u
Make a good epoxy fillet between transom and hull, and a r
e
strong one inside the stem. Let free the last 50 mm at top, a
s to allow lay down of the sheer-strake at a further stage. s
e
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Sheath (300 to 400 g/m²) the garboards to improve the overall stiffness and give better protection inside the water ballast. 17 L
i
l
o
u
Open the cut-out into the hull for the
2
backbone, which includes the -
centreboard case. S
t
r Open the edges in V shape to be able u
c
t to fill in with epoxy putty. u
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18 L
i
l
Insertion of the backbone. o
u
For this task, you need some helping hands.
2
Sand, if required, the bottom of the hull, where the backbone will be glued. Mark the position -
of the hull on the cradle. Lift the hull and lay it aside. Lay down the backbone into the notches S
t
r of the cradle. Apply a thick coat of glue where required and lay down the hull. Check that the u
c
t
hull is located correctly and square to the backbone. Fill-in carefully all joints on the full u
r thickness of hull. The joints have to be opened in V previously. e
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19 L
i
l
o
u
2
Prefabricate the box which is located into the fore locker to -
stow the oars (and a pole if any) on the cockpit floor. This S
t
r box has to be watertight. Coat inside (three coats epoxy) u
c as it will be difficult to paint inside. t
u
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20 L
i
l
o
u
Lay down the bulkheads glued to the hull with epoxy fillets. Glue first 2
-
with the ties. Then remove the ties and finish glueing. S
t Insert the oars box with both end bulkheads. r
u
c
Add epoxy fillets with the inner backbone. t
u
You may have to drill some holes plugged by the sheathings. r
e
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21 L
i
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Lug yawl version. u
2
Prefabricate the mast box. Glue it in place with
-
care to keep the fore compartment watertight. S
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u
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22 L
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Lay down the longitudinal bulkheads between the motor This sketch shows the yawl lug version with some u
well and the aft buoyancy compartments. As for the 2
mortices aiming at receiving the mizzen mast step.
-
oars box, it is better to insert it with the aft bulkhead. S
t
Make careful epoxy fillet, ensuring watertightness. r
u
Note the doubler allowing to screw the motor supports. c
t
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23 L
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u
2
-
S
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u
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Add both 12 mm plywood parts, making a small watertight compartment, which aims at reducing the quantity of water in the motor well See the motor support arrangement, which will be installed only according to the actual outboard motor.
24 L
i
l
Lay down the secondary bulkheads (in blue) is the o
u
same way as the main bulkheads. Half bulkheads, on
2
both sides of the centreboard case, are inserted into -
mortices into these case cheeks. S
t
r Drain plugs (in red) are fitted into the water-ballast aft u
c
t
end bulkhead. These plugs have to be located as low u
r as possible. Drill the holes before laying down the e
a
bulkhead. s
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25 L
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u
Lay down the small longitudinal bulkheads 2
-
aiming at draining the watertight cockpit. S
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26 L
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Lay down the longitudinal bulkheads closing u
the water-ballast. Make carefully watertight 2
-
epoxy fillets. S
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27 L
i
l
o
It is now time to turn over the hull with care: the hull u
joints are not finished! Complete all the epoxy joints 2
-
taking care to get a fair hull. S
t
For the clinker sheer-strake, fill-in the opened joints r
u and coat the plywood edges. c
t
u
Plane off the strakes ends around the transom. r
e
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28 L
i
l
o
Plane out the fore-end of the hull strakes to get a u
surface well perpendicular to the axial plane of the 2
- boat. Then lay down the false-stem, made of 6 layers
S
t
of 5 mm strips. r
u
c
t Proposed process: u
r
e
Lay down the strips dry.
a
s
Start at stem-head and drill pilot holes, progressively s
e toward the stem foot. m
Dismount all, apply glue, except the face in contact b
l
y
with the stem.
–
Glue in place, again starting from the stem-head. 2
6
Dismount again to shape the false-stem according to
J
a
the stem width. The fore face width is to be according n to the keel-band width, between 12 to 15 mm. u
a
r
Glue and screw the finished false-stem. Trim at both y
ends. 2
0
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29 L
i
l Plane off the false-stem foot and glue the filling part (in red) made of three layers of 20 mm solid wood. o
u
Lay down the false-keel which covers the backbone. A slot for the centreboard has to be cut into the 2
- false-keel. Reduce the width of the false-keel in continuity with the false-stem.
S
t
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30 L
i
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u
Sheath entirely the hull (300 g/m² about cloth). 2
The sheer-strake is not sheathed. The cloth is cut in -
S
the clinker joint angle. t
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31 L
i
Adjust and lay down the bilge keels made of solid wood l
o
(22 x 32). They aim at protecting the hull when on the u
2
strand. Then the hull may be painted, except the sheer-
-
strake, avoiding further turn over. S
t
r
The keel bands may also be screwed u
c
down at this stage. t
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32 L
i
l
Screw down a keel band on the stem and the o
u keel from the centreboard slot. The keel band is
2
made of stainless steel, bronze or brass. A half- -
S
round 7 x 14 mm is ideal. But it may be a t
r simple flat bar. The fore face width of the false u
c
t stem is shaped according to the keel band size. u
r
Therefore, it is better to buy it in advance. e
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33 L
i
l
o
Aft, the skeg is protected by a flat u
2
keel band, about 5 x 30 mm.
-
Then, the hull is turned over to be S
t
r
upright for interior work. u
c
t
u
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34 L
i
l
o
Fit the fore locker bottom, made of three u
2
9 mm plywood parts. They are simply
-
resting on the cleats. Leave an ample play S
t
r
all around in order to be able to take them u
c
off for maintenance, even after painting. t
u
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35 L
i
l
o
Fit, glue and screw all battens/cleats u
22 x 22 mm as shown on the sketch, 2
-
here for the aft part.
S
t
r
u
c
t
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36 L
i
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u
Same, fore part.
2
-
S
t
r
u
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t
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37 L
i
l
o
u
2
-
S
t
r
u
c
t
u
r
e
a
s
s
e
m
Add the small bulkheads (in red) b
l which make the cockpit draining box. y
–
2
6
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a
n
u
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r
y
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0
1
9
Prepare the installation of the bilge pump. Lay down
–
the suction pipe with a stainer located close to the r
e
starboard drain plug of the water-ballast. Fasten the v
1
pipe at each bulkhead crossing. The pipe crosses the cockpit bottom inside the aft locker. The bottom will be drilled before lay down. This crossing will have to be made watertight with a sealant. The pump is fastened to the face of the side locker. This face has a reduced opening width for that purpose.
38 L
i
l
o
Lay down the cockpit bottom/floorboard made of two parts. u
It is essential to get perfect watertightness. Recommendation: 2
-
●
Have watertight joints between battens/cleats. The method is to S
t open the joint (V-shape) and fill in with epoxy. r
u
● Apply a thick coat of epoxy. c
t
u ● Plane off the edges of the plywood panels to have V-shaped joints. r
e
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39 L
i
l
o
Lay down the aft part of the cockpit bottom in u
2
the same way.
-
See the cover of the draining box and the S
t
r
rabbet made with a doubler (9 mm plywood) u
c
glued underneath. t
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40 L
i
l
o
Add the side lockers faces. They are inserted into a mortice cut in the aft bulkhead. Apply epoxy u
inside the buoyancy compartment to ensure watertightness. 2
-
The covers, with hinges at the bottom, give access to the side lockers. Rabbets are made with 9
S
t mm plywood parts glued to the faces. r
u
The starboard face has part intended to install the bilge pump. c
t
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41 L
i
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u
2
-
S
t
r
u
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Add the carlins which support the side seats. Temporarily install the bilge pump. The discharge pipe crosses the seat to reject the bilge water to sea just underneath the gunwale.
42 L
i
l
o
u
Lay-down the side seats made of 12 mm plywood. An
2
epoxy fillet is applied between seat and hull to avoid any -
water ingress into the lockers. S
t
r The crossing of the discharge pipe has to made watertight. u
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43 L
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u
Glue a batten 22 x 22 under each side seat,
2
alongside the edge. Then glue the trim 18 x -
28 on both plywood edges. S
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44 L
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Fit the seat riser (20 x 40) which support the thwart and is also o
u
useful to attach mooring ropes or any other piece of equipment.
2
Add also the cleats (30 x 30) on both sides of the centreboard case. -
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45 L
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2
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The thwart is made of two parts. It is
S
t
screwed but may also be made easily r
u
removable. For that purpose, add 20 x 20 c
t cleats under the thwart on both sides of the u
r
e
seat riser.
a
s
Note the cut-out for the centreboard pivot. s
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46 L
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Assemble the mast box and glue it. Mortices in 2
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the bulkhead take the mast compression load. S
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The panel, giving access to the fore locker, is r
u hinged on its bottom. c
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47 L
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Important: The forepeak is a o
The foredeck is made of u
buoyancy compartment. two parts to be put together 2
The watertightness has to be - with a zig-zag joint.
S
made carefully. t
It is recommended to r
u sheath the deck, and also c
t to sheath underneath the u
r
e joint. Sheathing ensures
a
s
better stiffness and s
e improved paint durability. m
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Lay-down the fore-deck. A 12 mm 2
6
plywood doubler (in red) is glue
J
a
underneath, aft of the mast bulkhead. n
u
She lays on the mast box. Make a good a
r epoxy fillet between the doubler and the y
box. 2
0
The fore-deck upper face is located 38 1
9
mm under the sheer-line (edge of the –
r
upper hull strake). e
v
The Samson post and the fore-deck are
1 adjusted simultaneously, ensuring the cut-out in the deck is correctly located. The Samson post is bolted to the fore bulkhead. Do that before final glueing of the deck. The joint around the Samson post is opened (V-shaped) to fill in with epoxy. 48 L
i
l Glue the trim (12 x 24) protecting the fore-deck and doubler edge. o
u
The mast is kept in place by a lashing using two eyebolts. 2
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Four belaying pins are located as shown for the halyards.
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49 L
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Lug yawl version l
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A solid wood coaming is built around the mast u
2
partner cut-out to reduce the water entries.
-
Two deck clips are screwed into a reinforced S
t
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fore beam for the sail tack. u
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50 L
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Lug yawl version u
The mizzen mast step (12 mm plywood) is installed. 2
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Mortices into the longitudinal bulkheads give the proper
S
t
position. A bracket is added underneath. r
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51 L
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The after-deck is laid down in the same way o
u than the fore-deck.
2
Glue a thick solid wood block inside the -
S
buoyancy compartments to screw, lately, the t
r mooring posts. u
c
t
In case of lug yawl rig, glue also a doubler u
r underneath the bumpkin step. e
a
At this stage, you should cut-out the hull s
s for the motor and screw the supports. e
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52 L
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Lug yawl rig l
o
Glue the mast partner coaming and cut the deck u
2
accordingly.
-
A mortice into the transom gives the appropriate S
t
r
position of the coaming made u
c
of two layers of plywood. t
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53 L
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Lay-down the gunwale, inside the sheer-strake. l
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Make a neat adjustment at the fore-end, where both gunwales join. u
2
Aft, there is a mortice in the transom making adjustment easier.
-
The upper edge of the gunwale and the rub-rail (outside) are S
t aligned with the edge of the sheer-strake. When they are all glued, r
u
c
you may plane-off to get a fair surface. t
u
Use some screws to avoid slippage during the glue curing. r
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It is also possible to have the upper edges of rub-rail and gunwale about 2 mm over the sheer-strake edge. Then you fill in the slot with epoxy (if possible, the same colour as wood) or glue a thin strip of wood in case of varnishing. Doing this protects the plywood edge of the sheer-strake. 54 L
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u
Then, glue the rub-rail outside of 2
- the sheer-strake. Adjust to the
S
t
false-stem at the fore-end. r
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55 L
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Gaff rig u
The chainplates are bolted to the sheer-strake. A 2
- doubler is added inside. The rub-rail is hollowed
S
t out in way of the chain-plate. r
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56 L
i
l The aft mooring posts are screwed strongly into the o
u
bulkhead with 6 mm screws (a doubler has been glued 2
inside). Screw also through the hull. -
S
The posts have to be adjusted to the gunwale. t
r Then fit and glue the deck trim. u
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57 L
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The centreboard is inserted into the case from the top. The sketch u
shows the two extreme positions of the centreboard. When sailing, 2
- the centreboard has to be locked in the down position to ease
S
t recovery in case of capsizing. This also avoid to lose the r
u centreboard. c
t
u
Trims are glued over the posts to protect the plywood edges. You r
e may also add a thin strip to protect the round plywood edges.
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The rudder is assembled as shown. u
On the aft third, the rudder is 2
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streamlined, keeping about 6 mm S
t
width at the trailing edge. r
u
See plan 21. c
t
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The rudder blade may be lightly r
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sheathed. See the rudder fittings a
s
drawings 45 and 46. s
e
A template of the tiller is included in m
b
the plywood kit. l
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59 L
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A side locker, on the opposite side of the bilge pump, may receive a 12 u
litres gas tank. You may cut a hole for the fuel hose. 2
-
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60 L
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Congratulation! Your boat is nearly
2
finished, but there is still painting, -
S
varnishing, fitting, seamanship to do, t
r before the first launching. u
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