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(Bordeaux). Ripe and Juicy, This Wine Melds Red Berry and Black Currant Flavors Easily Into Its Dry Texture

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(Bordeaux). Ripe and Juicy, This Wine Melds Red Berry and Black Currant Flavors Easily Into Its Dry Texture BUYING GUIDE FEBRUARY 2013 The bell tower of Saint-Émilion’s Monolithic Church rises above the commune’s famous vineyards. 50 AUSTRALIA 2 BORDEAUX 52 ARGENTINA 30 RHÔNE 56 CALIFORNIA 32 SOUTHERN ITALY 66 WASHINGTON 38 SICILY & SARDINIA 72 SPIRITS 40 GERMANY 74 BEER 43 SPAIN FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT 48 PORTUGAL BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM Photo © Jean-Bernard Nadeau WineMag.com | 1 FRANCE 2010: STRUCTURE AND CONCENTRATION FROM BORDEAUX wo great back-to-back Bordeaux vintages, 2009 and 2010, have left from a decade ago, when the abvs of the 2000 vintage rarely crept higher the Bordeaux wine trade and its customers divided. First came the than 12.5% or 13%. Tlush, accessible, delicious wines of 2009. In the U.S., for critics and As the scores in this month’s Buying Guide indicate, 2010 looks great, a consumers alike, it was love at first sip. vintage to stand high in the pantheon of great Bordeaux vintages—almost Then came 2010, a structured, classic vintage, suitable for long aging. certainly higher than 2009. While some prices remain steep, great quality Quickly, the Bordeaux trade proclaimed this to be the better vintage: “The is found among wines that represent the value tier. wines are the most concentrated I have ever seen,” said Thomas Duroux This leaves us with a choice. While some of the 2009s are almost ready of Château Palmer in Margaux during the barrel tastings in early 2011. to drink, these 2010s will need to be cellared for much longer. Charles Chevallier at Château Lafite Rothschild said simply: “The Cab- Although Bordeaux takes center stage in this issue’s Buying Guide— ernet is the most magnificent I have seen.” Less sure, American buyers including reviews from vintages prior to 2010—we also give a nod to were reluctant to commit, especially at the high prices demanded by the another iconic French region, the Rhône Valley. Elsewhere in Europe, we top chateau owners. review the latest releases from southern Italy, Spain and Germany, as well Now that the 2010 Bordeaux have been bottled and released, consum- as 2009 and 2010 vintage Ports. From the New World, check out reviews ers can fairly compare the vintage with its lauded predecessor. The 2010s of the wines from Argentina and Australia, plus hundreds of wines from feature massive concentration, along with delicious, ripe fruit. Alcohol lev- California and Washington. els of 14% are common, and some wines are 15%. That’s a radical change Cheers! —ROGER VOSS ture of its vintage. It hints at wood aging, plus black cur- bottling shows that this is a chateau to watch. Cellar LEFT BANK rant freshness and tight acidity on the finish. Barton & Selection. —R.V. RED BORDEAUX Guestier USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $15 MÉDOC Château Cantemerle 2010 Haut-Médoc. Bernard Magrez 2008 Château Tour 92 A great success for this southern Médoc cha- Château Preuillac 2010 Médoc. Sitting 86 Blanche (Médoc). The tendency for some teau, this is fine, elegant and perfumed. It bursts with a 91 well above its place in the Bordeaux hierarchy, wines produced by Bernard Magrez to show too much black fruit flavor, balanced by smooth tannins and acid- Preuillac, owned by the Mau family, has produced a hard wood is very pronounced here. After four years, ity. It’s a wine for medium-term aging over the next six firmly structured 2010, bearing dense tannins as well this should be softening, but it still has a hard edge of years. —R.V. as powerful fruit. It has a juicy element but needs many smoky tannins. The red fruit flavor is chafing to come abv: NA Price: $NA years to round out and show all of its considerable po- out, so try waiting for a few more years. Bernard Magrez tential. —R.V. USA. —R.V. Château de Villegeorge 2010 Haut- abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $19 92 Médoc . This fine, rich, fruity wine is from a chateau controlled by the Lurton family. It is solid, con- Château Laffitte Laujac 2009 Médoc. For Les Hauts de Tousquiron 2010 Cuvée Lu- centrated and dense, packed with blackberry flavor. De- 90 full review see page 8. 86 cie (Médoc). This rich, fruity wine has tannins liciously juicy now, it has the tannins and acidity that abv: 13.5% Price: $28 that are well submerged by the ripe, juicy black-plum suggest it is capable of aging for many years. —R.V. flavor and acidity. It’s delicious now and is not for long- abv: NA Price: $NA Château Laffitte Laujac 2009 L de Laf- term aging. Stephen Augustus Imports. —R.V. 87 fitte Laujac (Médoc). A blend of equal parts abv: 13% Price: $28 Château Hanteillan 2010 Haut-Médoc. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is already a well- 92 This is ripe and dense, with great tannins; opu- balanced, ready-to-drink wine. It has dusty tannins sus- lent, rich black fruit; and a fresh, juicy aftertaste. The pended easily in the black currant flavor, while the dry HAUT-MÉDOC structure and the solid texture both point to long-term core brings weight. Drink now or age for two years. aging. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Château Sénéjac 2010 Haut-Médoc. This Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $15 93 chateau is under the same ownership as Saint- Julien’s Château Talbot. The wine is firm, fruity, rich Château Hourtin-Ducasse 2010 Haut- and concentrated, showing all the best qualities of 2010. Château Patache d’Aux 2010 Médoc. An Médoc . This is an impressive, concentrated There is a complex array of black fruits which are sus- 92 87 ancient staging post for the coaches that plied wine that gives pride of place to the ripe berry flavors tained by the firm, solid tannins. Age for at least 6–7 the Médoc, Patache d’Aux is now producing some fine and the balancing acidity. Underneath, the tannins are years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. rich wines with a sense of structure as well as fruit. This built up, showing that the wine will age. With its weight abv: NA Price: $NA 2010 has full, sweet-tasting red fruit flavors, with firm and depth, this needs to be aged the tannins to fully tannins that promise to age over the next 3–4 years. Cellar Selection. Château Bernadotte 2010 Haut-Médoc. soften. —R.V. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $20 92 Strong new-wood aromas lead to a palate that is layered with firm tannins, a polished toast character and Barton & Guestier 2010 Médoc. This is ini- a sufficient ripe blackberry flavor to balance. This 2010 86 tially a serious and structured wine, which sub- sequently rounds out but always keeps the firm struc- Continued on Page 11 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 years, gradually losing primary fruit and gaining inter- esting mushroom and dried fruit notes. —S.H. The Wine Enthusiast abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new- release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Goldschmidt 2007 Plus Game Ranch Sin- Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor gle Vineyard Selection Cabernet Sauvi- Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt 96 in Seattle and Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa gnon (Oakville). A dramatic Cabernet, complex and Tierra Roja 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Rosa. layered, this shows deeply concentrated blackberry es- 95 (Oakville). The vineyard is just east of the If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s sence, black currant, dark chocolate and raisin flavors Silverado Trail, below Dalla Valle and just up the initials appear following the note. When no initials appear that are intricately woven with a sweet, smoky oak in- street from Screaming Eagle. The wine, which is 100% following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect fluence. The tannic structure is thick and furry, but just Cabernet , shows the intensely concentrated, ripe fruit the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits about perfect. Should age for many years, gradually los- of this neighborhood, packed with flavors of black- Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by ing primary fruit, but it’s drinkable now after decant- berry preserves, cassis liqueur and a touch of chocolate, Lauren Buzzeo. ing. —S.H. wrapped into fine tannins and brightened by acidity. Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by abv: 14.5% Price: $150 Give it at least eight years in the cellar. Cellar Selec- the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content tion. —S.H. cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. abv: 14.8% Price: $130 Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.
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