BUYING GUIDE FEBRUARY 2013 The bell tower of Saint-Émilion’s Monolithic Church rises above the commune’s famous .

50 AUSTRALIA 2 52 ARGENTINA 30 RHÔNE 56 CALIFORNIA 32 SOUTHERN 66 WASHINGTON 38 & SARDINIA 72 SPIRITS 40 GERMANY 74 BEER

43 SPAIN FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT 48 PORTUGAL BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM Photo © Jean-Bernard Nadeau

WineMag.com | 1 2010: STRUCTURE AND CONCENTRATION FROM BORDEAUX

wo great back-to-back Bordeaux , 2009 and 2010, have left from a decade ago, when the abvs of the 2000 rarely crept higher the Bordeaux trade and its customers divided. First came the than 12.5% or 13%. Tlush, accessible, delicious of 2009. In the U.S., for critics and As the scores in this month’s Buying Guide indicate, 2010 looks great, a consumers alike, it was love at first sip. vintage to stand high in the pantheon of great Bordeaux vintages—almost Then came 2010, a structured, classic vintage, suitable for long aging. certainly higher than 2009. While some prices remain steep, great quality Quickly, the Bordeaux trade proclaimed this to be the better vintage: “The is found among wines that represent the value tier. wines are the most concentrated I have ever seen,” said Thomas Duroux This leaves us with a choice. While some of the 2009s are almost ready of Château Palmer in during the barrel tastings in early 2011. to drink, these 2010s will need to be cellared for much longer. Charles Chevallier at Château Lafite Rothschild said simply: “The Cab- Although Bordeaux takes center stage in this issue’s Buying Guide—­ ernet is the most magnificent I have seen.” Less sure, American buyers including reviews from vintages prior to 2010—we also give a nod to were reluctant to commit, especially at the high prices demanded by the ­another iconic French region, the Rhône Valley. Elsewhere in Europe, we top chateau owners. review the latest releases from southern Italy, Spain and Germany, as well Now that the 2010 Bordeaux have been bottled and released, consum- as 2009 and 2010 vintage Ports. From the New World, check out reviews ers can fairly compare the vintage with its lauded predecessor. The 2010s of the wines from Argentina and Australia, plus hundreds of wines from feature massive concentration, along with delicious, ripe fruit. Alcohol lev- California and Washington. els of 14% are common, and some wines are 15%. That’s a radical change Cheers! —Roger Voss

ture of its vintage. It hints at wood aging, plus black cur- bottling shows that this is a chateau to watch. Cellar LEFT BANK rant freshness and tight acidity on the finish. Barton & Selection. —R.V. RED BORDEAUX Guestier USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $15 MÉDOC Château Cantemerle 2010 Haut-Médoc. Bernard Magrez 2008 Château Tour 92 A great success for this southern Médoc cha- Château Preuillac 2010 Médoc. Sitting 86 Blanche (Médoc). The tendency for some teau, this is fine, elegant and perfumed. It bursts with a 91 well above its place in the Bordeaux hierarchy, wines produced by Bernard Magrez to show too much black fruit flavor, balanced by smooth tannins and acid- Preuillac, owned by the Mau family, has produced a hard wood is very pronounced here. After four years, ity. It’s a wine for medium-term aging over the next six firmly structured 2010, bearing dense tannins as well this should be softening, but it still has a hard edge of years. —R.V. as powerful fruit. It has a juicy element but needs many smoky tannins. The red fruit flavor is chafing to come abv: NA Price: $NA years to round out and show all of its considerable po- out, so try waiting for a few more years. Bernard Magrez tential. —R.V. USA. —R.V. Château de Villegeorge 2010 Haut- abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $19 92 Médoc­. This fine, rich, fruity wine is from a chateau controlled by the Lurton family. It is solid, con- Château Laffitte Laujac 2009 Médoc. For Les Hauts de Tousquiron 2010 Cuvée Lu- centrated and dense, packed with blackberry flavor. De- 90 full review see page 8. 86 cie (Médoc). This rich, fruity wine has tannins liciously juicy now, it has the tannins and acidity that abv: 13.5% Price: $28 that are well submerged by the ripe, juicy black-plum suggest it is capable of aging for many years. —R.V. flavor and acidity. It’s delicious now and is not for long- abv: NA Price: $NA Château Laffitte Laujac 2009 L de Laf- term aging. Stephen Augustus Imports. —R.V. 87 fitte Laujac (Médoc). A blend of equal parts abv: 13% Price: $28 Château Hanteillan 2010 Haut-Médoc. and , this is already a well- 92 This is ripe and dense, with great tannins; opu- balanced, ready-to-drink wine. It has dusty tannins sus- lent, rich black fruit; and a fresh, juicy aftertaste. The pended easily in the black currant flavor, while the dry HAUT-MÉDOC structure and the solid texture both point to long-term core brings weight. Drink now or age for two years. aging. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Château Sénéjac 2010 Haut-Médoc. This Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $15 93 chateau is under the same ownership as Saint- Julien’s Château­ Talbot. The wine is firm, fruity, rich Château Hourtin-Ducasse 2010 Haut- and concentrated, showing all the best qualities of 2010. Château Patache d’Aux 2010 Médoc. An Médoc­. This is an impressive, concentrated There is a complex array of black fruits which are sus- 92 87 ancient staging post for the coaches that plied wine that gives pride of place to the ripe berry flavors tained by the firm, solid tannins. Age for at least 6–7 the Médoc, Patache d’Aux is now producing some fine and the balancing acidity. Underneath, the tannins are years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. rich wines with a sense of structure as well as fruit. This built up, showing that the wine will age. With its weight abv: NA Price: $NA 2010 has full, sweet-tasting red fruit flavors, with firm and depth, this needs to be aged the tannins to fully tannins that promise to age over the next 3–4 years. Cellar Selection. Château Bernadotte 2010 Haut-Médoc. soften. —R.V. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $20 92 Strong new-wood aromas lead to a palate that is layered with firm tannins, a polished toast character and Barton & Guestier 2010 Médoc. This is ini- a sufficient ripe blackberry flavor to balance. This 2010 86 tially a serious and structured wine, which sub- sequently rounds out but always keeps the firm struc- Continued on Page 11

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 years, gradually losing primary fruit and gaining inter- esting mushroom and dried fruit notes. —S.H. The Wine Enthusiast abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new- release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Goldschmidt 2007 Plus Game Ranch Sin- Italian Editor Monica Larner in , California Editor gle Selection Cabernet Sauvi- Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt 96 in Seattle and Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa gnon (Oakville). A dramatic Cabernet, complex and Tierra Roja 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Rosa. layered, this shows deeply concentrated blackberry es- 95 (Oakville). The vineyard is just east of the If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s sence, black currant, dark chocolate and raisin flavors Silverado ­ Trail, below Dalla Valle and just up the initials appear following the note. When no initials appear that are intricately woven with a sweet, smoky in- street from Screaming Eagle. The wine, which is 100% following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect fluence. The tannic structure is thick and furry, but just Cabernet­, shows the intensely concentrated, ripe fruit the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits about perfect. Should age for many years, gradually los- of this neighborhood, packed with flavors of black­ Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by ing primary fruit, but it’s drinkable now after decant- berry preserves, cassis liqueur and a touch of chocolate, Lauren Buzzeo. ing. —S.H. wrapped into fine tannins and brightened by acidity. Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by abv: 14.5% Price: $150 Give it at least eight years in the cellar. Cellar Selec- the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content tion. —S.H. cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. abv: 14.8% Price: $130 Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Zaca Mesa 2009 Black Bear Block Estate Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Grown and Bottled (Santa Ynez 96 Cambria 2010 Estate Grown & Bottled Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Valley). If the first duty of a wine is to be delicious, Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Clone No. 4 (Santa Maria Val- Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; this tiny production bottling succeeds beyond all mea- 94 ley). Classic Cambria Pinot from the Santa Maria Val- often good value. sure. The Black Bear Block is almost always Zaca Mesa’s Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- ley, this is translucent in color, silky in texture and bone best Syrah among its many releases, and so it is again in critical circumstances. dry, yet unbelievably concentrated. Full bodied and 2009. Take one sip and you’re dazzled by the refined Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 warm in alcohol, it has massive flavors of cherry com- points) are not reviewed. tannins, dryness and complexity of flavors: blackberry, pote, cranberry, persimmon, sweet, smoky oak and cassis, plum sauce, mocha, bacon, smoky oak, white SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS crushed spice. It should age gracefully over the next six Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent pepper, chamomile tea and licorice. What’s harder to years. —S.H. quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any express is the sheer pleasure of the mouthfeel. This is price with unique qualities that merit special attention. abv: 14.9% Price: $52 Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible an exciting Syrah, and may just be at the beginning of a and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled to long journey. Drink now and for many years as it slowly reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but changes. —S.H. that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In abv: 14.5% Price: $60 general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag. com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@ wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted Feudi di San Gregorio 2007 Piano di will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission La Follette 2010 Van der Kamp Vineyard 94 Montevergine Riserva (Taurasi). This spe- forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site. 95 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Mountain). A tremen- cial wine is aged for 18 months in oak and shows a mas- LABELS dous wine, this appeals to the senses as well as the intel- sively long and intense finish, with evolving notes of Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given lect. Dry, tart in acidity and somewhat tannic, it shows black fruit, ash, prune, spice, leather and bitter black the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and complex flavors of raspberry and cherry pie, bacon, cin- chocolate. It showcases the hard work achieved by Feu- printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label ­purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax namon, white pepper and sandalwood. The finish goes di di San Gregorio over the years. This should age for 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. on and on. So delicious now, you can hardly keep from 10 years or more. Palm Bay International. Cellar Se- Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at drinking it, but this is a Pinot Noir that will age for 6–8 lection. —M.L. buyingguide.winemag.com abv: 14.5% Price: $65

WineMag.com | 3 Larraín, Lasmartres Toso 94 & Undurraga 2008 LTU (Uco Valley). LTU is su- perconcentrated, black as night, min- erally, rich and wonderfully balanced. The palate is wide but well structured, while flavors of toasty oak, peppercorn and stirring black fruit are delicious. Toasty, chocolaty and macho to the last Zaca Mesa 2009 Estate Grown and Bot- drop. Drink now–2016. Quintessential Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Pàtrimo Mer- 93 tled Roussanne (Santa Ynez Valley). Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. 93 lot (Campania). One of the most important Roussanne is really hard to pull off in California, but abv: 14.8% Price: $52 expressions of Merlot from southern Italy, Pàtrimo is if anyone can do it, Zaca Mesa can. It’s as good as the a soft and decadent wine, boasting an excellent qual- 2007, showing nectarine, pear and tangerine flavors, ity of ripe fruit that’s backed by pretty tones of crushed with the creamy, yeasty complexities of a fine barrel- stone, lead pencil and Indian spice. The mouthfeel is fermented . It’s dry and crisp in acidity and rich, generous and long-lasting. Palm Bay International. even has a fine, steely minerality. Drink now.Editors’ Cellar Selection. —M.L. Choice. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $105 abv: 14.5% Price: $25

Grgich Hills 2008 Miljenko’s Vineyard Bokisch 2010 (Lodi). Bokisch 93 Estate Grown Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). 93 has made a Tempranillo­ that’s relatively light Grown in Calistoga, this is textbook Petite Sirah: It’s Aiken 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (How- in body, bursting with an earthy tobacco tone, with a black as a moonless night, bone dry, intensely tannic 92 ell Mountain). Veteran winemaker Joel Aiken backbone of leather. The palate feels velvety, with soft and enormously packed in fruit. Those tannins really marches to a different beat from today’s cult style, re- but structured tannins, bearing black cherry and dark lock the wine down in astringency, but they can’t hide verting to an older expression of Napa Valley Cabernet. chocolate flavors. This has to be one of California’s best the massive burst of blackberry, cassis liqueur, mocha, This one is bone dry, tannic and tightly wound in acids. Tempranillos. —V.B. crispy bacon and black pepper. Nowhere near ready to It will not offer much pleasure now, even after decant- abv: 14.5% Price: $21 drink, it’s a wine to be cellared for 5–6 years, at the very ing. It needs to be aged, and judging by the intense core least. It should glide through the decades effortlessly, of blackberries, cherries and minerals, it will easily ne- gradually losing tannins and growing more clean and gotiate the next 10–15 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. pure. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $75 abv: 14.8% Price: $55

Cambria 2010 Barbara’s Clone 667 Pinot 93 Noir (Santa Maria­ Valley). This small-pro- duction Pinot is ripe and intense. It immediately strikes you with the sheer opulence of its cherry and blueber- Alto Moncayo 2009 Aquilon Garnacha ry flavors. But the structure is immaculate, with pure, Zaca Mesa 2009 Mesa Reserve Estate 92 (Campo de Borja). This is a powerful, rich, refined tannins, plus bright, zesty acids. It has a lot of 93 Grown and Bottled Syrah (Santa Ynez toasty Garnacha,­ with grit, earth and spice galore on the alcohol, and the wine is a bit warm, but Pinot-friendly Valley). This is consistently one of Zaca Mesa’s best Syr- bouquet. It feels tough, masculine and tannic, with a foods like steak and lamb will help to balance it. Drink ahs of several bottlings they produce every vintage. The mix of beefy black-fruit flavors elevated by molasses and now–2016. —S.H. mildly cool year was kind to the fruit, giving controlled spice. Firm and showing some burn on the finish, along abv: 14.9% Price: $80 blackberry and black currant flavors that are wrapped in with notes of black licorice and peppery spice. Only 200 refined tannins. The wine finishes with a swirl of smoke cases made. Drink now–2016. Jorge Ordoñez Selec- and peppery spice, plus a touch of warmth from the al- tions. —M.S. cohol. Drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 16% Price: $155 abv: 14.5% Price: $44

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 Campanaro Kilikanoon 2008 Covenant Shiraz (Clare 92 (Irpinia). The two that represent the 92 Valley­). This plush, fruit-driven style of Shi- D’Arenberg 2008 The Ironstone Pressings pride of southern Italian —Fiano and Gre- raz displays aromas that resemble a cross between Nil- 92 -Shiraz-Mourvèdre (McLaren co—are blended here to produce a creamy, rich white la Wafers and graham crackers spread with berry pre- Vale). This Grenache-based blend derives consider- wine that will pair well with steamed lobster or crab. serves. The flavors follow along similar lines, under- able structure from its Shiraz (38%) and Mourvèdre Beautifully balanced sensations of acidity and spice ap- scored by hints of chocolate and coffee on the lingering (7%) components, giving it more firmness, length and pear on the long finish. Palm Bay International.Edi - finish. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. ageability than might be expected. Dark chocolate and tors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 berry aromas and flavors pick up hints of dried tobac- abv: 13% Price: $33 co and other herbs, ending on a crisp note. Give it two or three years, then drink it over the next 10–12. Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

Muga 2006 Selección Especial (). 92 Rich yet subdued on the bouquet, with elegant Feudi di San Gregorio 2008 Taurasi. Dark tobacco, lemon peel and earthy scents, this feels lush 92 and opulent, this has a modern touch, with soft and full of heft, but it’s not plodding or heavy. Flavors Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier 2007 Lieu oak tones that support pretty notes of black cherry, dark of spiced black fruit, molasses and tobacco are nice, 92 Dit Malakoff Shiraz (Pyrenees). This part- chocolate, spice and tobacco. The mouthfeel is rich, and the finish features a long, dry, comfortable fade. nership continues to turn out marvelously complex toasted and delicious, with a long, dry finish. Palm Bay Drink this winner now–2016. Jorge Ordoñez Selec- wines from inland Victoria. Savory, herbal and intrigu- International. —M.L. tions. —M.S. ing on the nose, with hints of raspberry, mushroom abv: 14% Price: $38 abv: 14% Price: $43 and smoked meat, this is a medium-bodied, supple wine. Dusty tannins impart a silky quality to the finish. Drink now–2018. Terlato Wines International. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

Gary Farrell 2009 Rochioli Vineyard 92 Chardonnay­ (Russian River Valley). This Rochioli 2011 Estate Grown Chardonnay is the ’s best Chardonnay, but that’s no surprise 92 (Russian River Valley). This isn’t a long-term given its source: the famous Rochioli Vineyard. Right ager, but do give it about a year in the bottle to let all of now, it’s dominated by new oak influence, with buttered its parts meld together. Right now, it’s tight and oaky. It toast, butterscotch and caramel flavors. But there’s an features intense, bright pineapple, green apple and or- intense core of pineapples, oranges, green apples, nec- ange flavors, with sweet barrel influences and a tenuous tarines and apricots, and the finish is absolutely dry. The streak of acidity. —S.H. vineyard’s minerality and the Russian River’s acidity abv: 14.5% Price: $46 Dry Creek Vineyard 2008 Endeavour provide balance. Give it until the summer of 2013, and 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry Creek Valley). then enjoy it for several more years. —S.H. Blended with splashes of Petit Verdot and Merlot, this abv: 14.2% Price: $45 Cabernet is rich, soft and smooth. The blackberry, cur- rant and chocolate flavors are at their full, primary ex- pression, and promise a long, evolving aging process in the years ahead. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

WineMag.com | 5 Baron De Ley 2005 Gran Reserva (Rioja). 91 Quite earthy and nutty on the nose, this fea- Bokisch 2010 Terra Alta Vineyard Garna- Septima 2009 Gran Reserva (Mendoza). tures scents of leather, peanut, licorice and raisin. The 91 cha (Clements Hills). This has 10% Monas- 92 This comes out swinging, with bullish berry and mouthfeel is smooth, steady and layered, with dry plum, trell in the mix, and it is a sublime example of what fla- prune aromas that hint at being stewy but then pull raspberry and plenty of spice and toast. It turns mostly vors of baked raspberry compote, cranberry and black back. It’s saturated and tannic but not rough, with black toward tobacco and vanilla on the finish. Very nice and licorice can do when allowed to mingle together in liq- fruit, chocolate, toast and pepper flavors. Minty and friendly; drink now–2017. Frederick Wildman & Sons, uid form. Medium in body, this has a lot of earthiness. dark, with a licorice note on the finish. Drink now–2016. Ltd. —M.S. It would make a fine alternative to more expensive Pi- Aveniù Brands, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 nots. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $18

Tablas Creek 2010 Esprit de Beaucas- 92 tel Blanc Grown & Bottled on the Es- Bodega Catena Zapata 2010 Catena Alta tate Roussanne-Grenache Blanc-Picpoul Blanc 91 Estate­ Rows Chardonnay (Mendoza). (Paso Robles). This is the priciest of Tablas Creek’s Among Argentinean Chardonnays, Catena’s Alta is Château Cap Léon Veyrin 2010 Listrac- priciest of its three new white-Rhône-style releases. among the very best. This vintage supplies toasty apple, 91 Médoc. Smooth and rich, this showcases both A blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Picpoul pear and banana aromas in front of a fresh, full-bod- the structure and ripe black fruits of the vintage. It has Blanc, it’s rich, dense and oaky. It shows ripe, concen- ied palate that’s clean, pure and Burgundian in charac- wood-aging flavors, with a touch of caramel and fine trated orange, mango and apricot flavors, enhanced by ter. Flavors of baked apple, oak and spice lead to a long acidity. This is for medium- to long-term aging. Baron oaky notes, with fleshy weight and density. Not an ager, finish. Drink now–2014. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. Francois Ltd. —R.V. but a distinctive and enjoyable wine. —S.H. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 13% Price: $35

Llopart 2006 Leopardi Brut Nature 91 (). This luxury Cava is entirely clean and pure on the bouquet. The palate is bright, lifted and zesty for a 2006, with apple, dry spice and lingering cit- Bokisch 2010 Belle Colline Vineyard rus notes. The body is defined by its yeasty weight and Alto Moncayo 2009 Garnacha (Campo de 91 Monastrell (Clements Hills). Bokisch’s foam but it’s not heavy or dull. Only 100 cases of this 91 Borja). Smoky, charred and minerally on the 100% Monastrell­ is brooding with dark fruit—black beauty were made. Drink now–2015. Jorge Ordoñez nose, this has a balsamic berry aroma and lots of dark cherries, currants and blackberries. It shows a cinna- Selections. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. spice. It feels deep, pure and layered, with flavors of mon-swirled earth note and a layer of herb, with me- abv: 11.5% Price: $40 wild berry, toast, baked plum and dark spice. It finishes dium body. As such, it would be a beautiful wine with big, with hints of rubber, blackberry and lasting spice. roasted meats like lamb or chicken that are swaddled Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. in herbs or anise. The tannins are soft but structured abv: 16% Price: $45 enough to age. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 Viu Manent 2008 ViBo Malbec (Mendo- Cerro Prieto 2009 El Bordo Reserve Syr- 91 za). Blueberry, boysenberry, minty oak and 90 ah (Paso Robles). This is as rich and hedo- leather are the key aromas of this full-force Malbec. Alto Moncayo 2009 Veraton Garna- nistic as anything in California. It’s like drinking an elixir ViBo emerges with focus and power; it’s delivering a 90 cha (Campo de Borja). This is intense for of milk chocolate and blackberry jam, sprinkled with truck load’s worth of firm berry flavor, finishing dry and Garnacha­, with piercing berry, spice and heat to the cinnamon and black pepper and infused with vanilla alert, with chocolate and herb notes. Drink now–2016. bouquet. This is a big, burly type of modern Garnacha, bean. But beware: the high alcohol goes to your head Baystate Wine & Spirits. —M.S. with a streak of boosting acidity. Flavors of plum, berry fast. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $42 and cherry finish long and slightly raisiny. Big and bruis- abv: 16.8% Price: $39 ing but still well balanced. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $25

Zaca Mesa 2010 Estate Grown and Bot- 91 tled Viognier (Santa Ynez Valley). This is Zaca Mesa’s best Viognier in at least 10 years. Dry and Château Canon 2005 Canon-Fronsac. crisp in zesty acidity, with a firm minerality, it avoids the 90 Just hinting at maturity, this rich and stylish variety’s exotic side, offering streamlined, complex fla- wine features finely balanced tannins, a juicy blackberry vors of citrus fruit, Asian pear, peach and white pepper. Bodega NQN 2007 Malma Universo flavor and fruity ripeness. Using fruit sourced from the Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 90 Blend (Patagonia­). This Malbec-Cabernet small appellation of Canon-Fronsac, on the hill close abv: 13.5% Price: $18 blend hits the spot aromatically, delivering rock-solid­ to Saint-Émilion, this wine is ready to drink and is full black fruit and toasty oak scents. It feels rich, with of flavor, with concentration on the finish. L&C Wine chewy tannins and rooty-tasting berry and chocolate fla- Country Operations, LLC. —R.V. vors. Smooth and easygoing, perhaps a touch soft on the abv: 13% Price: $40 finish. Drink now–2014. Vias Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

Zaca Mesa 2009 Estate Grown and Bot- 91 tled Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). This is soft, smooth and refined, with rich, complex blackberry, cas- sis, bacon, pepper and smoky cedar flavors. Good as it Cambria 2010 Estate Grown & Bottled is, it will develop bottle complexities over the next eight 90 Clone No. 115 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Château Haut Selve 2009 Graves. This years. Almost as good as Zaca Mesa’s more expensive Valley). This is a silky, gentle Pinot Noir, redolent of 90 wine exhibits the generosity from the ripe 2009 . —S.H. cherry, raspberry, cola, exotic spice and toast. It’s com- vintage. It has rich, full and round fruits, with a pleasing abv: 14.5% Price: $25 plex, revealing layers of interest as it warms in the glass. black currant flavor and tannic edge. Juicy, with a dust- Will provide fine drinking over the next few years. textured aftertaste, this will age for 4–5 years. Baron —S.H. Francois Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.8% Price: $52 abv: 13.5% Price: $25

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Château Laffitte Laujac 2009 Médoc. A 90 smooth, wood-aged wine from the northern part Re Manfredi 2008 del Vulture. of the Médoc, this shows mint and spice notes as well 90 An opulent , this has dark aromas of as a ripe black-plum flavor. Made in a style that features bitter chocolate, prune, plum, blackberry, tobacco, Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Ros’Aura (Ir- softened tannins, this is a complex and concentrated­ spice and rum cake. It shows plump, round extraction 89 pinia). Ros’Aura is one of the most delightful wine that will benefit from an additional 2–3 years in in the mouth, which helps soften the variety’s tannins. rosatos to come from southern Italy. It’s a concentrat- the cellar. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. ed bright pink color, with fresh aromas of wild berry abv: 13% Price: $28 abv: 13.5% Price: $37 and pink grapefruit. Palm Bay International. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

Bodegas Bilbainas 2006 Viña Pomal 89 Reserva (Rioja). Dill, vanilla, tobacco, earth D’Arenberg 2008 The Dead Arm Shiraz and light red-fruit aromas comprise the classic nose. 90 (McLaren­ Vale). Concentrated and intense, The palate feels tight and in good shape, while a mild this wine features a potent whack of oak on the nose, berry flavor comes topped with touches of cardamom, with dark fruit and mocha overtones. There are enough cinnamon and nutmeg, expressing Rioja in every way. hints of bright, raspberry-tinged fruit to warrant opti- Elegant and balanced; drink now. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Marqués de Riscal 2006 Reserva (Rioja). mism about its aging trajectory, but at the moment it is —M.S. 89 This wine is the epitome of traditional Rioja dark, heavy and slightly scorched. Try after 2017. Old abv: 14% Price: $21 Reserva. It opens with aromas of citrus peel, tobacco, Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selection. —J.C. earth, cherry, smoke and rubber. Fresh and medium in abv: 14.5% Price: $65 body, it has oak-based flavors of vanilla and spice on top of reedy red fruit. Oak persists on the finish. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Fiano di 89 Avellino. Feudi di San Gregorio consistently Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 DUBL Agli- does a terrific job with the Fiano . The producer 90 anico (Campania). Here’s a pearl for spark­ finds a magical way of extracting the grape’s pear, citrus ling wine lovers. This bubbly rosato is made from the and peach aromas. Mineral and talc powder sensations hearty Aglianico grape, usually reserved for one of are there as well. Palm Bay International. —M.L. Napa by N.A.P.A. NV Michael’s Red (Napa Italy’s­ most austere and masculine red wines. Yet here abv: 13% Price: $20 89 Valley). Made from Cabernet Sauvignon, San- the variety shows a delicate, soft side with notes of wild giovese, and a few other varieties, this is dry ­berry and creamy almond paste. Palm Bay Internation- and complex. It has cherry, plum, red licorice, spice and al. —M.L. cedar flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $43 abv: 13.9% Price: $25

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 BEST BUYS

Tablas Creek 2011 Patelin de Tablas 88 Blanc Grenache Blanc-Viognier-Rous- Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Greco di sanne-Marsanne (Paso Robles). A wonderful 88 Tufo. This producer has a magic touch with its Rhône-style blend, this is easy to drink and versatile white wines, and this fresh Greco di Tufo is no excep- enough to pair with a wide range of foods. It shows or- tion. Mineral nuances are enhanced by notes of stone ange marmalade, vanilla, spice and oak flavors that are crisp, clean and delicious now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. fruit, honey and citrus. A dusty touch of talcum powder Jean-Michel Cazes 2011 Michel Lynch abv: 13.5% Price: $20 appears on the close. Palm Bay International. —M.L. 90 (Bordeaux Blanc). A abv: 13% Price: $20 creamed apple flavor gives this wine a warm, rich feel. Its weight matches its touch of minerality. Toward the end, a tropical character emerges, adding an exotic, ripe feel. Esprit du Vin. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

Allure NV Bubbly Peach (California). With 87 sweet-tasting flavors of ripe summer peach and vanilla, this is made crisp and clean with slight carbon- ation. Bronco Wine Co. —S.H. Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Rubrato Agli- Condes de Albarei 2011 Albariño (Rías abv: 10% Price: $15 88 anico (Irpinia). Rubrato is a midlevel Agliani- 89 Baixas). This is more than admirable for a co that offers an easy, approachable interpretation of 100,000-case, widely available Albariño. Apple, lime one of Italy’s most powerful grape varieties. This shows and mineral aromas set up a cutting, citrus-driven pal- pretty accents of spice and dark fruit. Palm Bay Inter- ate, with crisp, narrow flavors of lemon and green apple. national. —M.L. A touch pithy on the finish, which is long and minerally. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 Colección Internacional del Vino. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $12

Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Falanghina 87 (Sannio). This bright Falanghina offers cit- rus, green apple, honey and melon aromas, with a fresh, zesty finish. Pair this with spaghetti alle vongole. Palm Bay International. —M.L. Philippe Borlais 2010 Tête du Rhône Plungerhead 2011 Old Vine abv: 13% Price: $16 89 (Côtes du Rhône). A terrific value, Borlais’s 88 (Dry Creek Valley). This is rich and spicy in white is subtle and floral on the nose, then full bodied, briary, brambly flavors, with notes of wild cherry and broad and weighty on the palate, with flavors of melon, blackberry, plus a wonderful summer-herb quality of pineapple and a dry, stony note that lingers on the fin- nettle and fresh anise. Despite the big tannins, it’s vel- ish. Drink now. A.W. Direct. Best Buy. —J.C. vety smooth. This barbecue wine contains a few drops abv: 13.5% Price: $14 of Petite Sirah and Tannat for complexity. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

WineMag.com | 9 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Castellví de la Marca NV Santa Monica 88 Brut (Cava). This smells toasted and heady, Bodegas Valdemar 2011 Tempranillo with a baked apple aroma. The mouthfeel is full, while 87 (Rioja). Wild berry, cherry and mint notes are Château Les Ancres 2009 Bordeaux. This the flavors tend toward citrus and pith. Solid on the fin- what you’ll find on this wine’s open, likable bouquet. 86 is a solidly structured wine, with dry tannins ish. Atlas Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. The feel is clean and crisp, with snappy wild-berry and that power through the acidity and black currant flavor. abv: 11.5% Price: $10 plum flavors that crackle with finishing acidity and con- There is a sense of concentration, and the juicy acidity trolled tannins. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S. layers over the dark, dense character. Bourgeois Family abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

Schröder & Schyler 2010 Chartron La 88 Fleur Merlot-Cabernet (Bordeaux). Ripe and juicy, this wine melds red berry and black currant flavors easily into its dry texture. A deliciously ripe wine, Fat Cat 2011 Moscato (California). This is 87 a perfect example of why Moscato is so popular. it feels soft and forward; it will likely be ready to drink in six months. Cutting Edge Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. What’s not to like, with the crisp, clean mouthfeel and seemingly sweet flavors of honey, orange and vanilla? So abv: NA Price: $12 Feudi del Pisciotto 2010 Baglio del Sole zesty, it’s impossible not to drink a few glasses, and the Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). alcohol is refreshingly low. Best Buy. —S.H. 86 Baglio del Sole offers abv: 10% Price: $10 simple berry aromas, with light touches of almond and spice. It shows lean, compact qualities on the palate that would pair with pasta or pizza. Vias Imports. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2011 Mou- 87 ton Cadet (Bordeaux Blanc). Full bodied and rich, this has flavors of apple and lemon, with a warm and ripe feel that is balanced by a final mineral character. It needs several months to come together. Thorny Rose 2009 Red Blend (Colum- Constellation Brands, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 87 bia Valley). This is a pleasing blend of Merlot abv: NA Price: $10 and Cabernet Sauvignon, with tiny additions of Malbec and Syrah. It has a toasty flavor like coffee cake—think breakfast pastries, dusted with a mix of cinnamon and Thorny Rose 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon brown sugar. Toss in a cup of espresso and a splash of 86 (Columbia­ Valley). This shares some of the cassis, and you have a handle on the wine. Best Buy. same coffee cake flavors as its companion, the Thorny —P.G. Rose Red Blend, but here the flavors of stems and earth abv: 14% Price: $11 are a bit more evident. It also comes with a nice lick of black cherry flavor. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $11

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 Château Paloumey 2010 Haut-Médoc. This big, concentrated effort is currently closed, but 92 BEST BUYS SPIRITS BEST BUYS it’s already hinting at ripe black fruits, solid tannins and a long future. On the finish, acidity and a black currant note give the wine a final lift. Keep this for at least five Real Russian (USA: Premiere years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Distillery, Gurnee, IL). 92 This abv: NA Price: $NA small-batch U.S. wheat vodka is handcraft- ed by a third-generation Russian distiller, Bernard Magrez 2010 Château Gramond using an heirloom family recipe. The end 91 (Haut-Médoc). This is a rich wine still dominat- result is clean, with zingy citrus and pine ed by solid, firm and dry tannins. Its black and red fruits notes, almost like a superlight gin. Brisk are ripe and juicy, and its freshness comes from acidity and well-balanced, this would work well in that appears on the finish. Age this balanced effort for a wide range of cocktails. Best Buy. 4–5 years, at least. Bernard Magrez USA. Cellar Selec- abv: 40% Price: $20 tion. —R.V. Château de Seguin 2011 Sauvignon de abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Seguin (Bordeaux Blanc). This is definite- 85 Bernard Magrez 2010 Château Moulin ly herbaceous, with gooseberry and citrus flavors and d’Ulysse (Haut-Médoc). This small 24-acre a crisp, cool feel. It dances lightly on the palate with 91 property has produced a powerful, rich 2010 that layers vibrant acidity. Plume Ridge Negociants. Best Buy. its big black-plum flavor with complex tannins and wood —R.V. notes. Dry and firm, it is still defiantly young and needs abv: 12.5% Price: $10 several years to round out. Bernard Magrez USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $29 CORRECTIONS Château Belgrave 2010 Haut-Médoc. As 91 Belgrave improves each year, it reveals a charac- On page 35 of the December 31, 2012 issue, we cred- ter that is close to the elegance and style of Saint-Julien, ited ­Jason McGrady for the Duck á l’Orange cocktail. right next door. This 2010, while dense, is balanced, and Christopher Givens created the cocktail. its rich blackberry flavor is already integrating into its firm tannins. This should age well for the medium term. J. Garcia Carrion NV Opera Prima Spar- Thiénot USA. —R.V. 84 kling Moscato (Spain). Lychee, honeydew On page 138 of the December 31, 2012 issue, we incor- abv: NA Price: $60 and cotton candy aromas precede the easy, not-too- rectly identified a wine as ablanc de blancs. The correct serious­ palate, which offers candied citrus, melon, pine- information is as follows: Château Cambon la Pelouse 2010 Haut- apple and powdered sugar flavors. Clean on the finish 91 Médoc. This shows something of Margaux’s— and crafted for those who like sweet-tasting, simple the neighboring appellation—delicacy, allied with firm, wines. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S. dry tannins. It has the dense structure and ripeness char- abv: 7% Price: $8 acteristic of the vintage, with a rich black-fruit flavor and acidity. It’s a wine for long-term aging. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA SPIRITS BEST BUYS Caraccioli 2007 Brut Cuvée (Santa Lucia ­ 90 Highlands). This , a blend of Château de Braude 2010 Haut-Médoc. 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir, is dry, creamy 91 From the southern part of the Haut-Médoc, this and rich in flavors of citrus, yeast and vanilla.­ It feels effort is rich and rounded, full of black fruits and sweet refined and silky on the palate, with a honeyed finish. tannins. It is well balanced, with its acidity and smoky fla- —S.H. vors coming through slowly as the wine opens. Age this abv: 12% Price: $52 over many years. William Harrison Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $17

Château de Gironville 2010 Haut-Médoc. 91 Gironville is in the southern Haut-Médoc, close Sheep Dip Malt Whisky (Scotland; Freder- to Margaux, and is capable of producing the same style of 94 ick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY). The wine—open and not overly tannic. At the same time, the silly name of this delicious, hard-to-put-down blended black currant fruit is present, concentrated and already Scotch supposedly is derived from the days “when farm- juicy. This shows fine potential, so keep it for the next ers hid their home-made whisky from the nosey excise 4–5 years. Signature Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. officers in barrels marked ‘Sheep Dip.’ ” Made with a abv: 13.5% Price: $18 blend of 16 single malts from the four major whisky re- gions, this has an intense apple aroma and flavor, over- Château Lamothe Bergeron 2010 Haut- laid with a faint curl of smoke. The earthy smokiness 91 Médoc. Dark in color, this is a concentrated grows on the finish, with intriguing dry and savory notes, wine that’s very firm in structure, with dense tannins. It’s like baker’s chocolate and brine. Pair this with crumbly powered by ripe, mature black fruits as well as acids that aged cheeses. Best Buy. cut through the dry texture. This needs several years of abv: 40% Price: $45 aging. K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

WineMag.com | 11 Château Landat 2009 Haut-Médoc. There all the elements for good aging. Lemma Wine Co Inc. combination means the wine is both rich and struc- 91 is a fine mineral texture to this structured, firm —R.V. tured, layering the tannins and fruit with acidity. Pow- wine from the northern Haut-Médoc. It also has ripe abv: 13% Price: $25 erful and concentrated, this should age for 4–5 years. fruit and a richly tannic character, with flavors of black Serge Doré Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V. plum juice and berry. Dominated by Cabernet Sauvi- Château Landat 2008 Vieilles Vignes abv: 14% Price: $NA gnon, this will age over several years. Editors’ Choice. 90 (Haut-Médoc). Made using fruit selected —R.V. from old vines, this is a concentrated effort that strad- Bernard Magrez 2004 Château la Tem- abv: 13% Price: $20 dles the old-style Bordeaux and the modern, fruit-driv- 89 perance (Haut-Médoc). Now mature, this is en type. The tannins are firm and dry, which dominate a powerful wine for the vintage. It has a spice note, plus Château Liversan 2010 Haut-Médoc. the black currant flavor, and the acidity is crisp and tannins that are still present and likely to develop fur- 91 Liversan­ is the flagship of the properties owned plentiful. It’s a wine that is aging slowly and will repay ther. The flavors of truffle, gamy beef and beet are are by the Lapalu family. In 2010 it has produced a com- several more years of aging. —R.V. testaments to the age of this wine. It needs to be con- plex, tannic and dark-fruit-driven wine that is full, ripe abv: 12.5% Price: $25 sumed over the next year. Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. and solidly structured. Rich, with a dry core, it has the abv: 14% Price: $21 potential to age for at least 5–6 years. Pierre Courdurie Château le Chêne 2010 Haut-Médoc. Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. 90 Smooth and ripe, this is a finely balanced wine. Château Bel-Orme Tronquoy de Lalande abv: 13% Price: $20 New wood shows in the mint flavor, which is surround- 89 2010 Haut-Médoc. The Quié family, owners ed by a black currant note, plus fresh acids and tannins of Crozet-Bages in and -Gassies in Mar- Château Malescasse 2010 Haut-Mé- that promise aging. From the north of the Haut-Médoc, gaux, live in this northern Haut-Médoc property. The 91 doc. Located in the heart of the Haut-Médoc, this is a chateau to watch. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 2010 is closed, firmly tannic and solidly structured. It close to Lamarque, Malescasse is capable of produc- abv: 13% Price: $18 feels chunky, and its black plum flavor is tightly packed. ing sweet-tasting, friendly wines, such as this 2010. It’s —R.V. bright, fruity and layered with acidity, and the firm tan- Château Lieujean 2010 Haut-Médoc. abv: NA Price: $NA nins show through slowly, offering power and density 90 There is a fine sense of structure in this dense for the medium-term. —R.V. and solid effort. It has both a juicy black-currant note Château Belle-Vue 2010 Haut-Médoc. abv: NA Price: $NA and a full-bodied, concentrated texture. Showing the 89 Dark in color—partly from the blend’s 20% Pe- richness as well as the dry core of 2010, it is ready to age tit Verdot—this wood-aged wine is laden with an ex- Château Ramage la Batisse 2010 Haut- over several years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine tracted toast flavor and tannins. It is very concentrat- 91 Médoc. Ramage la Batisse, which as of 2012 Partners. —R.V. ed, with a flavor of black plum skin and berry-like acid- is 50 years old,­ is beginning to show the potential of its abv: 13% Price: $20 ity that contribute to its density. Signature Selections. vineyard near Pauillac. This 2010 tastes rich and sweet- —R.V. ly fruity, while its acidity supports firm tannins and ripe, Château Peyrabon 2010 Haut-Médoc. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 jammy black-fruit flavors. It’s for medium-term aging 90 From a property owned by Patrick Bernard of over the next 4–5 years. —R.V. négociant Millésima, this shows the results of consid- Château Bibian 2009 Haut-Médoc. A firm abv: NA Price: $NA erable investment during the recent years. The wood 89 and concentrated wine, this is dark and full bod- dominates at this early stage, but it also shows complex ied. It shows the superripe fruit produced by the 2009 Château Beaumont 2010 Haut-Médoc. fruit to balance the spice and toast flavors. Millésima vintage. Attractively full and juicy, it has extra weight 90 The greatly improved Beaumont, under the USA. —R.V. and a dark chocolate flavor, plus a spicy finish. Age for same ownership as Château Beychevelle in Saint-Julien,­ abv: NA Price: $NA 2–3 years. Leonard Kreusch. —R.V. has produced a full-bodied, rich wine, which is weighty abv: 14.5% Price: $23 and packed with serious fruits and tannins. It shows an Château Pontoise Cabarrus 2010 Haut- attractive, black-currant-driven side, but it remains a 90 Médoc. Perfumed new-wood aromas give this Château Citran 2010 Haut-Médoc. This wine for aging. —R.V. wine a toasty start. On the palate, the fruit is evident, 89 wine features bright red fruits, with attractive abv: NA Price: $NA showing luscious red-plum and black currant flavors. tannins and a gentle, ripe character. It’s dense, while There are attractive notes of toast and pepper as the not at all powerful, fruity or very forward. Keep for 4–5 Château Bellegrave du Poujeau 2008 wine smoothes out on the palate. Stacole Fine Wines. years. —R.V. 90 Haut-Médoc. A small 10-acre vineyard close Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA to the city of Bordeaux city has created a structured abv: 14% Price: $19 2008, which is now beginning to mature. The black cur- Château Lamothe-Cissac 2008 Vieilles rant flavor is still dominant, but it has been joined by Château Puy Castera 2010 Haut-Médoc. 89 Vignes (Haut-Médoc). The reserve wine ripe, soft tannins and a delicious, refreshing layer of 90 This shows firm tannins and a dense structure from Lamothe-Cissac is now a wine that is well on the acidity, lifted by an herbal edge. Age for another year, that comes from the Malbec and Petit Verdot in the way to maturity. It has a leathery texture that’s well inte- but also drink now. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. blend. It is full and spicy, with a flavor of black plum grated with wood and mushroom flavors. The acidity is abv: 12.5% Price: $65 juice and a round texture on the finish. It’s likely to age just in the background. Drink now or over the next 3–4 well over at least six years. —R.V. years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. Château d’Agassac 2010 Haut-Médoc. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $39 90 The vineyards of the beautiful medieval chateau of d’Agassac have produced a firmly structured, fruity, Château Saint Ahon 2010 Haut-Médoc. Château Laride 2009 Haut-Médoc. A rich, black-currant-flavored wine. It’s fragrant and packed 90 While this is certainly a structured wine, it also 89 fruity wine, this shows a jammy blackberry fla- with acidity, boasting tannins that suggest aging over has generous, full and ripe fruit flavors of black plum vor, with just the right balancing acidity. Wood aging many years. —R.V. and berry, plus firm tannins and acidity. Saint Ahon, in lends this wine a polished feel, and the tannins are com- abv: NA Price: $NA the southern part of the Haut-Médoc, is showing great fortably cushioned by the ripe fruit. It has the richness promise with this wine. House Of Burgundy. —R.V. of the vintage while still maintaining elegance. —R.V. Château Fontesteau 2010 Haut-Médoc. abv: 14% Price: $23 abv: 13% Price: $20 90 This is a firm wine, showing the tannins of the vintage while also bringing out ripe fruit to bal- Château Sénilhac 2009 Haut-Médoc. A Château Larose-Trintaudon 2010 Haut- ance. It shows tense acidity with a juicy edge and fol- 90 wine that is just getting into its stride, this has 89 Médoc. One of the largest Médoc proper- lows through with a sense of potential richness. This has ripe black fruits under its firm-yet-sweet tannins. The ties, this chateau always produces a reliable wine that

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 is ready to drink soon. Soft and already approachable, Château du Taillan 2010 Haut-Médoc. the Tesseron family, which also owns Château Pontet- the 2010 is no exception. Ripe tannins and a blackberry 87 This big and fruity wine is immediately ap- Canet—continues its recent upward progress. The flavor meld into a round finish —R.V. proachable, showing tannins that are already well inte- structure currently hides opulent fruit that holds great abv: NA Price: $NA grated into the red berry flavors. With such accessibility, promise for the future. With both power and richness, this is meant for short- to medium-term aging. —R.V. there’s a long life ahead. —R.V. Château Maucamps 2010 Haut-Médoc. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA 89 This fruity wine has attractive acidity and a live- ly black-currant note. The brightness on the surface Château Fonsèche 2009 Haut-Médoc. Château les Ormes de Pez 2010 Saint- masks the wine’s firmly tannic structure, although it’s 87 Much of the sweet-tasting fruit of 2009 is pres- 93 Estèphe. Although this wine has tannins, it’s the fruitiness and forward nature of the wine that will ent in this wine, while it simultaneously features a firm the fruit that shines, with its delicious black-currant fla- provide the most pleasure. —R.V. core of tannins. The bright acidity is reminiscent of vor and acidity. It is more fine and elegant than it is pow- abv: NA Price: $NA fresh black currants. Juicy, fruity and likely to age quick- erful, a pleasant surprise from Saint-Estèphe in this vin- ly. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. tage For medium-term aging. —R.V. Clos la Bohème 2010 Haut-Médoc. By abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: NA Price: $NA 89 Médoc standards, this 7-acre vineyard is small, with a production of 1,150 cases. The powerful black- Château Lamothe-Cissac 2009 Haut- Château de Pez 2010 Saint-Estèphe. This berry flavor is sweetened by dark plum and licorice 87 Médoc­. Rich and dense, ripe and juicy, this is firmly tannic wine boasts solid structure and notes, structured with new wood influence and firm 92 full of black fruits. It is smooth on the surface while sol- density. It has powerful concentration, due to very low tannins. There is a juicy finish, and the tannins promise idly tannic underneath. This is an opulent wine, with yields. The fruit is ripe, driven by notes of black plum long-term aging. Chartrand Imports. —R.V. a dry, wood-driven finish. Keep it for at least six years. and berry. This is a wine with a long-term future. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $42 Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $26 Château Belgrave 2009 Diane de Bel- Château Laffitte Carcasset 2010 Saint- grave (Haut-Médoc). Already deliciously Château Peyredon Lagravette 2010 Haut- 88 Estèphe. There is no mistaking the firm tan- fruity, this is a big, ripe, black-fruit-dominated wine. To Médoc. This rich and dense wine is packed 92 87 nins of Saint-Estèphe in this wine. At the same time, balance the black currant flavor, there is a fine sense of with dark tannins. Its wood and juicy fruit show signs these tannins are balanced with the generous ripe fla- structure, which offers a dry edge along with final acid- of firm extraction, giving it a bitter edge. At the same vor of black fruit and almost-sweet acidity. The prop- ity. Dourthe USA. —R.V. time, its dense structure promises medium-term aging. erty was created by Joseph Laffitte in 1759, right in the abv: 13% Price: $23 Polaner Selections. —R.V. center of the Saint-Estèphe plateau. Chateau Direct. abv: 13.5% Price: $32 Château Dillon 2010 Haut-Médoc. The —R.V. 88 home of the Bordeaux agricultural school could Château Caronne Sainte-Gemme 2010 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 be expected to produce an exemplary wine. That’s the Haut-Médoc. High acidity is combined with 86 Château Phélan-Ségur 2010 Saint- case with this vintage of Château Dillon, a textbook ex- ripe fruit to produce a tense, full-bodied wine. At this Estèphe­. posé of the structure of the vintage, with acidity and an stage, the fruit has not yet integrated with the dry tan- 92 The best wine from Phélan Ségur for intense black-currant flavor. —R.V. nins. —R.V. several years, this shows less of the often-intrusive new abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA wood and more of the fruit that had been missing in past vintages. It shows a subtle level of toast and a black Château la Tonnelle 2009 Haut-Médoc. Château du Moulin Rouge 2010 Haut- currant flavor, plus great acidity and freshness on the 88 This tannic and extracted wine shows touches 86 Médoc. Spicy, creamy new-wood aromas in- finish. —R.V. of burnt wood and solid, dry tannins. It misses the gen- troduce a wine that is heavily dominated by woody tan- abv: NA Price: $NA erously fruity feel of the vintage, replacing it with a firm, nins. The wine is very dry, its fruit a mere whisper in the tight character. It needs several years. Deutsch Family background. Give this five years and the fruit may come Château Sérilhan 2010 Saint-Estèphe. Wine & Spirits. —R.V. forward, though that’s not a guarantee. —R.V. 92 This firmly tannic wine, characteristic of Saint- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Estèphe, is very dry. Underneath the dryness, there is a delicious, opulent juiciness that brings out black currant Château Reynats 2010 Haut-Médoc. Lean Château Magnol 2010 Haut-Médoc. The and plum flavors. It’s obviously a wine for the long haul; and rather austere, this is a classically severe 88 headquarters of Bordeaux négociant Barton & keep for at least six years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Edi- wine. Its tannins dominate, which indicates that it needs 85 Guestier has produced a soft, ready-to-drink wine. It’s tors’ Choice. —R.V. to age, and only slowly do the tight black-currant flavor attractive, ripe and rich, and it’s full of juicy blackberry abv: 13.5% Price: $23 and acidity show. This is a wine from the old school, fruit. Drink now. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. needing several years to mature. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25 Château Beau-Site 2010 Saint-Estèphe. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 91 This structured, concentrated wine is from an estate in the north of Saint-Estèphe. A dominance of Château Sorbey 2010 Haut-Médoc. A mix SAINT-ESTÈPHE 88 of tight black-currant flavor, juicy acidity and a Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend lends it firm, solid tan- firm tannins appear in this concentrated wine. Along- Château Lilian Ladouys 2010 Saint- nins as well as a juicy black-currant note. It’s a wine for side its fruit, there is a touch of licorice that adds a bit- 94 Estèphe­. Obviously wood-aged, with a smoky long-term aging; don’t drink before 7–8 years. Borie- ter tone to the wine. It needs a few years to soften out. toast flavor, this is a wine that shows the power of Saint- Manoux. —R.V. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. Estèphe tannins in full force. At the same time, there is abv: NA Price: $41 abv: 14% Price: $15 a blackberry character that adds richness and juiciness, which cuts through the dry core. Age for at least 7–8 Château Cos Labory 2010 Saint-Estèphe. Château Cissac 2010 Haut-Médoc. This is years. Misa Imports. —R.V. 91 This wine seems like it’s all structure at this 87 a dark, concentrated effort that shows its wood abv: 14% Price: $35 stage, firmly tannic and dry. Very solid and chunky, it is strongly. The tannins are firm and almost heavy, produc- hiding its potentially rich fruit, which will show once the ing a wine that is intensely dry and will need many years Château Lafon Rochet 2010 Saint- intense tannins soften, but the wine will likely always be to age. —R.V. 93 Estèphe­. With the release of this hugely tan- severe. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA nic wine, this serious chateau—under the direction of abv: NA Price: $NA

WineMag.com | 13 Château Tour de Pez 2010 Saint-Estèphe. Pauillac cru bourgeois, this shows weight, intense black- Château Branaire-Ducru 2010 Saint- 90 This deep-colored wine has the alcohol and firm currant fruitiness and density from the high proportion 95 Julien­. This rich, full wine shows the chateau tannins to match its hue. It’s very dense and structured, of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Dark and brood- to be at the top of its form. It’s finely balanced, push- but it also plays up the ripe blackberry fruits. Give it ing, it’s likely to age for many years. Millésima USA. ing both its fruit and acidity, with the tannins taking the many years to soften out. —R.V. Cellar Selection. —R.V. supporting role. With its power leashed, this shows the abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA stylish side of Saint-Julien, although it will certainly age for many years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Château Lynch-Moussas 2010 Pauillac. abv: NA Price: $NA PAUILLAC 93 One of the chateaus owned by négociant Borie-­ Manoux, Lynch-Moussas has produced a fine, stylish Château Gruaud-Larose 2010 Saint- Château Pichon Longueville 2010 Pauil- 2010, which is firmly based on Cabernet Sauvignon. Julien­. For anybody looking for classic lac. This is quintessential Pauillac, a great wine 95 97 The fruit is rich and ripe, dominated by a blackberry Bordeaux­, this is the bottle to seek. “Classic” here with its Cabernet proudly at the fore. It ranks with the note and underpinned by tannins. This is a chateau to means a wine with a tannic structure that also relies on a 2009 and, with its tannins, is sure to age longer than that watch. Borie-Manoux—R.V. black currant flavor, with acidity providing freshness but vintage. Solidly structured, powerful and dense, with abv: NA Price: $80 not losing any concentration or aging potential. Keep fruit promised for the future, it succeeds with its weight for many years. —R.V. and great concentration. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse 2010 Pauil- abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA 92 lac. Tough at the moment, this is a wine with impressive concentration. It’s solid and chunky, with Château Beychevelle 2010 Saint-Ju- Château Lynch-Bages 2010 Pauillac. This massive structure. The fragrant finish is a sign of the lien. Beychevelle’s style privileges elegance sumptuous wine is driven by perfectly ripe fruit 94 96 pleasure to come. —R.V. over weight, and such is the case with the 2010. It’s a as well as dense, dusty and dry tannins. Great swathes abv: NA Price: $NA pure-fruited, ripe and lightly tannic wine, emphasizing of blackberry sweep across the palate, followed by juicy a blackberry note. This will evolve relatively quickly, acidity. Such a combination will make this impressive Château d’Armailhac 2010 Pauillac. This reaching a peak in approximately eight years. —R.V. wine a delight to drink in 10 years and beyond. Cellar is a wine that’s full of blackberry flavor, with el- abv: NA Price: $NA Selection. —R.V. 91 egant fruitiness and sweet tannins. It may miss the firm abv: NA Price: $NA structure of the vintage, but it makes up for that with its Château Langoa-Barton 2010 Saint- forward, ripe fruitiness. —R.V. Julien­. Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse 94 Fruity and juicy, this showcases the ac- abv: NA Price: $NA cessibility of this estate, while also highlighting some of de Lalande 2010 Pauillac. With signs of new 96 the tannic structure of its big brother, Léoville-Barton. wood on the palate, this is a wine that maintains the pol- Château Haut Bages Libéral 2010 Pauil- There is a classic black-currant note that’s balanced by ished feel of the wines from Pichon Lalande. It has a lac. The wine from this chateau, whose vines the firm tannins of the vintage. —R.V. stronger presence of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend 91 touch those of Latour, is solid and dense, with a sense of abv: NA Price: $NA than in the past, making it more structured than its pre- severity that is often the hallmark of this fifth growth. It decessors, with a dominance of black currant flavor. It is dark and the fruits whisper in the distance. This needs Château Lagrange 2010 Saint-Julien. shows the soft side of the vintage, but is also meant for to age for several years. —R.V. With vineyards in the west of Saint-Julien, aging. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 93 abv: NA Price: $NA Lagrange­ produces wines that are polished and elegant. abv: NA Price: $NA In 2010, that style has been suffused with tannins while Château Croizet-Bages 2010 Pauillac. also delivering a black currant flavor. The wine is rich Château Batailley 2010 Pauillac. With ad- This wine shows more structure than fruit at and ripe, with just the right amount of tannic structure vice from consultant and Bordeaux University 90 94 this stage. With its powerful tannins, its severity will for the fruit. —R.V. professor Denis Dubourdieu, Batailley has improved take many years to soften. But it does have fruit in the abv: NA Price: $NA immensely in the past few years. This 2010 reinforc- form of a juicy blackberry note that’s accompanied by es that trend, revealing a wine that is structured with acidity. Give the rest of the fruit time to come through. Château les Ormes 2010 Saint-Julien. Cabernet Sauvignon and is attractive with black currant —R.V. From one of the few Saint-Julien properties fruitiness. Age for the medium-term. —R.V. 93 abv: NA Price: $NA that are not cru classé, this nevertheless shows all the abv: NA Price: $89 class of the appellation. It has ripe black-currant and berry flavors, laced with acidity and dry, dense tannins. Château Clerc-Milon 2010 Pauillac. Con- SAINT-JULIEN Its richness is still developing. This has considerable ag- firming its place in the firmament of Pauil- 94 ing potential. Serge Doré Selections. Cellar Selection. lac greats, Clerc Milon’s 2010 has huge density, and is Château Léoville-Barton 2010 Saint- —R.V. packed with dark tannins and blackberry flavor. It has Julien. This magnificent, solid wine is ini- 100 abv: 13.5% Price: $115 a delicious freshness that cuts right through, lifting the tially severe, with its tannins dominating, yet it already concentration. With its tannins, this promises long-term reveals a full array of black fruits. Very dense and con- Château Talbot 2010 Saint-Julien. This aging. —R.V. centrated, this is a wine that’s even better than the cha- wine shows black currant fruit, with just the abv: NA Price: $NA teau’s legendary 2005. The structure tells of its extraor- 93 right balancing acidity. Talbot is progressing well in its dinary aging potential: Don’t even attempt to drink this quest to bring out its fine . —R.V. Château Fonbadet 2010 Pauillac. This is for the next 10 years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA 93 a wine with great potential, benefiting from the abv: NA Price: $NA Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Structured and pow- Château Gloria 2010 Saint-Julien. The erful, it has solid tannins that mask the blackberry and Château Léoville-Poyferré 2010 Saint- wine shows considerable new-wood influence currant flavors. It’s for long-term aging, one of the few Julien­. A wine of architectural strength and 90 98 at this stage. However, this wood emphasis brings out wines in Pauillac that is not a classified growth. Cellar classical proportions, this has straight lines that mark polished fruit that is deliciously smooth and blackberry- Selection. —R.V. the packed, concentrated fruits, which are sustained by like in profile. This is likely to develop relatively quickly. abv: NA Price: $NA its tannins. This is certainly the best wine that Léoville- —R.V. Poyferré has produced, sumptuous while so finely struc- abv: NA Price: $NA Château La Fleur Payrabon 2010 Pauil- tured. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 93 lac. A structured wine from this small 17-acre abv: NA Price: $NA

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 Château Saint-Pierre 2010 Saint-Julien. The tannins provide structure that accompanies the tage. A wine for serious, long-term aging. Cellar Selec- 89 A new-wood-dominated wine, this is very toasty ripeness, although this is not a wine to age for many tion. —R.V. and extracted, and it is losing some of its fruit in the years. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA process. It has a fine structure that will fill out when the abv: 14.5% Price: $35 black currant flavor gets a chance to shine. Keep for 4–5 Château Cantenac-Brown 2010 Margaux. years. —R.V. Château Reverdi 2009 Listrac-Médoc. 95 One of the finest wines to come from Cante- abv: NA Price: $NA 87 Here’s a big, smooth, round wine, with tan- nac Brown for many years, this is powerful and dense, nins that are packed into the superripe fruit flavors. It dominated by tannins and fruits. The is powerful and concentrated, and the wood influence structure has a smooth, polished character that locates LISTRAC-MÉDOC is still prominent along with a touch of bitterness from it firmly in Margaux, giving elegance and discreet fruiti- overextraction. It needs time to fully integrate. Marsal- ness. Age this fine wine for many years. Cellar Selec- Château Fonréaud 2010 Listrac-Médoc. le/Stoler Company. —R.V. tion. —R.V. Warm and fruity, this has the right amount of 92 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: NA Price: $NA wood and sweetly ripe blackberry flavor. It is certainly structured, but the generous texture balances it, making Château Giscours 2010 Margaux. Gis- it likely to age into a full, ripe character. Drink in 4–5 MOULIS-EN-MÉDOC cours shows an initial character of great style years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 95 and elegance. The shining fruit and concentrated tan- abv: NA Price: $NA Château Branas Grand Poujeaux 2010 nins follow, making it both a seductive wine and one Moulis-en-Médoc. From a 30-acre proper- 93 with a long-term future. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Château Lestage 2010 Listrac-Médoc. ty next to Château Chasse-Spleen, this 2010 is solid, abv: NA Price: $NA 92 Listrac’s naturally tannic character has bene- dark and rich, typical of the vintage. There is a veneer fited from the structure-driven 2010 vintage. Château of smooth new wood that opens to reveal firm, solid tan- Château Brane-Cantenac 2010 Margaux. Lestage­ shows this well, bearing powerful, complex tan- nins. This is big, structured and ready for long-term ag- One of the Lurton properties in Margaux, Brane nins that are powered equally by the ripe blackberry fla- ing. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 94 Cantenac is showing the richness of its finely placed vor and fruity acidity. It has just the right build for me- abv: NA Price: $NA vineyard in this 2010. Smoky wood and ripe blackberry dium-term aging. —R.V. are among the flavors of a wine that is complex, com- abv: NA Price: $NA Château Dutruch Grand Poujeaux 2010 plete and concentrated. It will certainly age well. —R.V. Moulis-en-Médoc. From the Poujeaux sec- 93 abv: NA Price: $NA Château Cap Léon Veyrin 2010 Listrac- tion of Moulis, Dutruch Grand Poujeaux is still fami- Médoc. For full review see page 6. ly-owned and -inhabited. This is deliciously fruity and 91 Château Kirwan 2010 Margaux. This full, abv: 14% Price: $30 the juicy black-currant flavor is firmly balanced by ripe, fruity wine is packed with acidity as well as ripe- generous tannins. A concentrated wine that will certain- 94 ness. It has a fresh black-currant character, and the Château Chemin-Royal 2010 Listrac- ly age well. Cellar Selection. —R.V. structure underneath is strong. It will develop relatively Médoc­. From one of the properties owned abv: NA Price: $NA 90 quickly, but then could hold at its peak for many years. by the Chanfreau family of neighboring Château —R.V. Fonréaud­, Chemin-Royal is dominated by new wood Château du Plessis 2010 Moulis-en- abv: NA Price: $NA flavors that give the wine a toasty edge. At this stage, 91 Médoc­. Concentrated, ripe, Merlot-typical it is difficult to taste the fruit, but the wine has weight, fruit flavors are the hallmark of this perfumed, ripe Château Labegorce Margaux 2010 Mar- which should develop through the tannins. —R.V. wine. It has a solid, slightly extracted character, which gaux. It was powerful and dense at en primeur, abv: NA Price: $NA brings out an edge of bitterness. In contrast, a sweet- 94 and it hasn’t changed since. This is firm, concentrated tasting plum note provides an open and round finish. and very structured, perhaps extracted, showing the full Château Fourcas Dupré 2009 Listrac-Mé- For medium-term aging over 4–5 years. —R.V. force of blackberry and sweet wood flavors and dark doc. This is a firm and tough wine initially, but abv: NA Price: $NA 90 tannins. Long-term aging needed. Cellar Selection. it slowly opens and develops a rich character through its —R.V. wood-aged and licorice flavors and fragrant acidity. It’s Château la Gravière Grand Poujeaux abv: NA Price: $NA dense and rich, as one expects of the vintage, and it cer- 90 2010 Moulis-en-Médoc. One of the many tainly will age over many years. —R.V. properties in Moulis with Poujeaux in its name, this es- Château Dauzac 2010 Margaux. Dauzac, abv: 13% Price: $NA tate has produced a classic, elegant wine, its Cabernet whose vineyards are in the south of Margaux, Sauvignon element providing a delicious black currant 93 has produced a severe wine in 2010, full of impressive Château Saransot-Dupré 2010 Listrac- flavor, rounded out by the Merlot. Firm tannins still tannins. It is not without charm, however, and it will Médoc. A ripe and fruity wine produced point the wine in the direction of aging, so give it four 89 certainly fill out its serious structure over the next sev- from old vines at Saransot-Dupré, this has a flavor of years and more. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. eral years. Give this dense wine time. —R.V. blackberry along with the complex tannins of Listrac. abv: 13.5% Price: $70 abv: NA Price: $NA Weighty, solid and just a touch rustic, this needs several years to age. —R.V. Château Moulin-à-Vent 2010 Moulis-en- Château Durfort-Vivens 2010 Margaux. abv: NA Price: $NA Médoc. This is a fruity, light wine with attrac- 87 An ugly duckling at en primeur time, this has tive floral and fruity notes, especially black and red cur- 93 since blossomed into a wine that is structured, tend- Château Saransot-Dupré 2009 Listrac- rant. The tannins are already open, suggesting the wine ing toward severity. Yet it also has richness in the form Médoc. A wine with structure, this achieves is likely to age quickly. —R.V. 89 of layered black fruit, with smooth wood influence and balance with its black currant flavor and acidity. It’s abv: NA Price: $NA tight acidity on the finish. It’s a wine for long-term ag- lined firmly with tannins that bring a dry and texture to ing. —R.V. this solid, age-worthy bottle. Give it at least five years. abv: NA Price: $NA Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. MARGAUX abv: 14.5% Price: $61 Château Rauzan-Ségla 2010 Margaux. Château la Tour de Bessan 2010 Mar- One of the top Margaux wines, this is in top gaux. One of the three properties owned by Château L’Ermitage 2009 Listrac-Médoc­. 96 93 form, finely balanced and as elegant as it is powerful. Marie-Laure Lurton, Tour de Bessan’s 2010 is a firm, With its rich, ripe blackberry-jam flavor and soft 88 It is darkly structured, dense yet balancing tannins with smoky wine, dark and firm in character. It has weight, tannins, this is an immediately accessible, fruity wine. ripe black plums. It expresses the complexity of the vin- a solid and rich feel and a juicy black-currant note. The

WineMag.com | 15 finish shows both aging potential and attractive fruiti- and some of Margaux’s typical fragrance and floral char- egance, this is a wine for aging over at least six years. ness. Cellar Selection. —R.V. acter. For medium-term aging. —R.V. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $30

Château Prieuré-Lichine 2010 Margaux. Château Rauzan-Gassies 2010 Mar- Château Rahoul 2005 Graves. Maturing 93 The former home of Alexis Lichine is now 91 gaux. With the 2009 and 2010 vintages, Rau- 91 well, yet with plenty of aging ahead, this is a firm owned by a Pacific-based French mining company. The zan-Gassies­ has hit its stride after many years of disap- and fragrant selection. It has a ripe berry flavor and a low yields of the 2010 (the vineyard was hit by hail) pointments. This 2010 is powerful, fruity, dominated hint of truffle, with sweet acidity and a dense, rich struc- have produced a smooth and rich style of wine, which by Cabernet­ Sauvignon’s black currant flavor. There is ture. Dourthe USA. —R.V. is weighty while also showing fine acidity on the finish. a touch of barnyard at the end, but this is likely a pass- abv: 13% Price: $26 This has definite aging potential. —R.V. ing phase. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA Château du Seuil 2009 Graves. Here’s a 90 big, wood-laden wine that shows some bit- Château Deyrem Valentin 2010 Margaux. Château Monbrison 2010 Margaux. Pow- terness, extraction and toast influence. However, the 92 Located north of Margaux village, Deyrem Val- 89 erful, with concentrated tannins, this bottle re- weight of ripe black-plum flavor will certainly come entin is a small, family-owned property of 32 acres that mains a tough proposition. Its acidity suggests some forward to produce a balanced, rich bottling, with the represents one of the values of Margaux. This wine is fruitiness, though the structure is lacking real flesh. This generosity of the year. Wait for 2–3 years. APS Wine & smooth, polished and concentrated, with flavors of will obviously round out, but could well be a firm wine Spirits. —R.V. wood and a sweet-tasting blackberry. The acidity and for many years. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 tannins demonstrate a fine balancing act. This shows abv: NA Price: $NA good aging potential. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Château Haut Selve 2009 Graves. For full abv: NA Price: $NA Barton & Guestier 2010 Margaux. This 90 review see page 7. Cellar Selection. 87 Margaux is full of firm tannins that parallel the abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Château du Tertre 2010 Margaux. Ripe, fragrant blackberry and black plum touches. It has a 92 dense and smooth from wood aging, this is a dense structure, very much in line with the year, while Château du Seuil 2008 Graves. Now ma- modern view of Margaux. At the same time, it shows a the finish is juicy and fruity. Barton & Guestier USA. 89 turing well, this is a wine that reflects much of beautiful black-currant flavor from the Cabernet Sauvi- —R.V. the freshness of 2008, with firm tannins and solid struc- gnon, and the Petit Verdot adds great color. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 ture. A black currant flavor dominates this elegant offer- abv: NA Price: $NA ing, providing acidity as well as freshness. It could age Château Mongravey 2010 Margaux. A for another few years, but is ready to drink now. APS Château Lascombes 2010 Margaux. 87 ripe, juicy and forward wine, this is all fruit— Wine & Spirits. —R.V. 92 Wood-driven tannins dominate at this stage, but it’s delicious fruit. The tannins are restrained behind abv: 13% Price: $25 creating a wine that is structured and dense. The tan- the exuberant fruitiness. It may not be classic Bordeaux, nins are layered with the weight of the black currant but it is likely to be very drinkable in 2–3 years. Youngs Château l’Avocat 2009 Graves. This spicy, and plum fruits. Lascombes is still finding its style, but Market Co. —R.V. 89 full-bodied effort shows the generosity of 2009. is definitely on the upward slope. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35 It has firm tannins, but they are matched by the full abv: NA Price: $NA blackberry and black currant flavors. The dry core from wood aging is likely to soften over the next 2–3 years. Château Siran 2010 Margaux. After a low -LÉOGNAN K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 92 period, Siran has come back in 2010 with this Château Brown 2010 Pessac-Léognan. solid, tannic, firm and serious wine. There is plenty of Château Brown continues its impressive push blackberry flavor to flesh out the structure, resulting in 92 Château Rahoul 2008 Graves. Chocolate to quality with this fine 2010. It brings demonstrates the a wine for medium-term aging. —R.V. and licorice flavors dominate this solid, four- structure of the year with its firm, youthful tannins. But 89 abv: NA Price: $NA square yet austere wine. Its offers firm fruit, with a it also shows plentiful black-currant flavor, layered with dense texture of black currant and red plum. Acidity acidity. Classic and serious, this is a wine for aging. Cel- Château Ferrière 2010 Margaux. With 20 and a spice note set off the finish. Dourthe USA. —R.V. lar Selection. —R.V. acres—the smallest of the Margaux classified abv: 13% Price: $26 91 abv: 14% Price: $NA growths—Ferrière has produced a 2010 of consider- Château des Perligues 2010 Graves. able weight and structure. It’s dark and serious, with a Château le Pape 2010 Pessac-Léognan. solid flavor of black plum skin and dense acidity on the Structured and aromatic, this is an immediately Now owned by Château Haut-Bailly, this wine 87 finish. Keep this wine for at least seven years for it to 91 attractive wine. It has a ripe, juicy character, balanced was produced before the purchase. It is elegant and start softening. —R.V. by firm, dry tannins. At this stage, although drinkable, it ripe; its tannins already well integrated, resulting in a abv: NA Price: $NA will certainly benefit from 3–4 years of aging. Roanoke full-bodied yet fruity character. Black plum and dark Valley Wine Company. —R.V. spice notes are lightened with refreshing acidity on the Château Marquis de Terme 2010 Mar- abv: 12.5% Price: $13 finish. Age for five years and more. Serge Doré Selec- gaux. Juicy, though a little on the lean side, 91 tions. Cellar Selection. —R.V. this wine shows a strong flavor of black currant while its Château Toumilon 2009 Petit Toumilon abv: 14% Price: $80 tannins are holding back. However, this vintage’s firm 84 (Graves). This is a light, fresh and fruity wine, structure demonstrates the considerable investment in with an attractive red-berry flavor, plus acidity and a soft the chateau in the past few years. —R.V. GRAVES structure. Table & Vine. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $24 Château Haut Selve 2008 Réserve Château Pontac-Lynch 2010 Margaux. 91 (Graves). Powerful tannins still control this Château Toumilon 2009 Graves. This wine 91 Pontac-Lynch’s 2010 is open, ripe and fruity. It wine. It has a mineral-driven texture and is very firm, 83 veers between firm tannins from old wood and misses some of the structured character of the vintage and the dry core still masks the potential of its delicious, red fruit acidity, without finding balance. It’s very dry, but replaces that with a bright, juicy black-currant flavor juicy black fruits. Solid and chunky, yet maintaining el- with a hard edge. Table & Vine. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 and firm structure, plus a blackberry-driven juiciness. the fruity acidity. It feels dark and dense, and it is likely RIGHT BANK With its bright acidity added to the mix, this is a serious to age well over 8–10 years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. RED with good aging potential. Bernard Magrez USA. abv: NA Price: $NA —R.V. CÔTES DE abv: 14.5% Price: $19 Château le Bon Pasteur 2009 . 93 Big tannins give this wine a powerful structure. BORDEAUX Château Grand-Maison 2010 Cuvée Spé- It has a dense texture that is slowly revealing the sweet- Château Chantemerle 2009 (Blaye Côtes 89 ciale (Côtes de Bourg). Firmly structured, tasting fruit. Powerful and concentrated, it has a long 90 de Bordeaux. While this wine has the richness dense and concentrated, this special selection is domi- future. Rolland Collection. Cellar Selection. —R.V. and warmth of its vintage, it also has a fine, dusty, tannic nated by Merlot, though the perfumes from Cabernet­ abv: NA Price: $NA structure, which gives it a serious aspect. Ripe black- Franc are evident. It has weight and a tight, tannic tex- Château le Gay 2009 Pomerol. plum and berry flavors provide a generous feel, while ture; age for at least five years. Pierre Courdurie Selec- With pow- the crisp acidity offsets the ripeness. Vintage Trading tions/Wine Partners. —R.V. 93 erful new-wood aromas and flavors, this is a Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 wine that is smooth and polished, yet fruity. This has abv: 12.5% Price: $8 concentration and a dark character that comes from the Château Haut-Pradier 2009 Côtes de opulent, ripe fruit. Give it at least 10 years. Cellar Se- Château la Levrette 2009 Blaye Côtes de 89 Bourg. This is a toasty wine, with flavors of lection. —R.V. 89 Bordeaux. This is an attractively perfumed eucalyptus and new wood, along with dry tannins. This abv: NA Price: $NA wine, which is polished by the wood influence, offering combination indicates how young the wine still is, be- Château Vray Croix de Gay 2009 Pomerol. flavors of mint and eucalyptus. It is rich and spicy, with cause it has a background weight of fruit and a rich the weight of black fruits. This is already drinkable, so blackberry-jelly flavor. It needs aging over 4–5 years. 93 Powerful tannins give this wine its dense, con- consume it now, or keep it for 3–4 years. Kysela Père Vintage Trading Inc. —R.V. centrated character. It is dark and dense, very dry at this et Fils. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15 stage and needing at least 10 years to round itself out. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 However, the presence of fruit promises a good future. Château Grand-Maison 2010 Valades Cellar Selection. Barone Guichard. —R.V. Bernard Magrez 2011 Château Baffort 88 (Côtes de Bourg). This hand-harvested wine abv: NA Price: $98 (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). This black- is a blend of Merlot and Malbec, with firm tannins and 88 Château Certan 2009 Pomerol. fruited effort is laced with a spicy wood note. It’s sur- ripe berry and cassis flavors. Solid and chunky, this has This is a prisingly delicious now, considering the firm tannins aging potential. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Part- 92 dry and firm wine, with hints of sweet-tasting that compose its core, but the wine also promises some ners. —R.V. fruits that peep through its dense structure. It shows aging. Drink now for fruit, and age for more complexity. abv: 13% Price: $15 great power and concentration, with an obvious long- Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. term future. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15 Château le Piat 2009 Côtes de Bourg. abv: NA Price: $NA 88 This densely structured wine is heavy on the oak Château Glorit 2009 Blaye Côtes de Bor- aging, though it maintains layers of black currant and Château la Croix Saint-Georges 2009 Pomerol. 88 deaux. New wood, mint and eucalyptus aro- red plum flavors. It’s currently ripe, with the potential 92 This has enough rich fruit to meld mas lead to a palate that is dominated by wood. With to soften into a warm, rich character. Vintage Trading with the abundance of toasty wood. It is opulent and the rich fruit underneath, the wine will come into bal- Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. ripe, a powerful wine, typical of the vintage with its ance, becoming warm and generous, typical of the vin- abv: 13% Price: $13 sweet red-berry flavor and refreshing acidity on the fin- tage. Vintage Trading Inc. —R.V. ish. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15 Château Grand-Maison 2010 Côtes de abv: NA Price: $NA 87 Bourg. Full and fruity, this wine shows a domi- Bernard Magrez 2009 Château Pérenne nance of Merlot, with a rich dried fruit flavor and sweet Château Rouget 2009 Pomerol. This 87 (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). Firm, tannic tannins. It has an attractive, juicy character on the fin- 92 rounded wine is dense, with firm tannins that and dominated by dense black fruits, this has a seri- ish. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. are well molded into its sweet-tasting structure. Packed ous layer of wood that shows through in a smoky, burnt abv: 13.5% Price: $27 with ripe fruit, this will age relatively quickly, giving character which needs time to soften. Solid, foursquare pleasure in 5–6 years. —R.V. Château Noblet 2009 Côtes de Bourg. abv: NA Price: $NA and showing the great ripeness of Merlot in 2009. Ber- nard Magrez USA. —R.V. 86 This heavily wood-dominated wine features a Château Violette 2009 Pomerol. Very opu- abv: 14.5% Price: $19 dry and tannic texture. It seems lean for the vintage, giving the impression of severity. The fruit shows only 92 lent in style, this wine is ripe, full bodied and Château Bel Enclos 2010 Cuvée Evi- in the acidity at the end. Vintage Trading Inc. —R.V. typical of 2009. It is rich and rounded, melding new 87 dence (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). For abv: 13% Price: $8 wood tones and sweet black fruits into a delicious, age- such a young wine, this is surprisingly mature. Its tan- worthy selection. —R.V. Château Perthus 2009 Côtes de Bourg. abv: NA Price: $NA nins have softened and rounded, becoming well inte- grated with the black currant flavor and bright acidity. 86 Dry and firm, this has tannins and an austere Clos l’Eglise 2009 Pomerol. Ripe and It’s an attractive choice to drink now or over the next structure. It will remain severe, though as the tannins fruity, this has ripe tannin and rich red-berry few years, but not for long-term aging. Serge Doré Se- soften, the wine will become more round and develop 92 flavors. It has a solid, firm background of dark tannins lections. —R.V. into a true, food-friendly selection. Vintage Trading Inc. that promise good aging. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 abv: NA Price: $NA CÔTES DE BOURG Château la Cabanne 2009 Pomerol. This POMEROL 91 rich, wood-aged wine shows a fine balance be- Bernard Magrez 2010 Château Guerry tween rich black-fruit and new toast flavors. It has Château la Croix du Casse 2009 Pomerol. (Côtes de Bourg). The 20% Malbec in the weight and power, without being over the top. For me- 89 This is a powerful, dry wine, with firm tannins blend helps to produce the spicy tannins and dark color 93 dium-term aging. —R.V. that are balanced by a ripe plum note and freshened by of this wine. The other grapes in the blend add richness abv: NA Price: $NA

WineMag.com | 17 Château La Conseillante 2009 Duo de Château Pierhem 2010 Pomerol. Pierhem complex wine has blackberry and bitter chocolate fla- 91 Conseillante (Pomerol). Dry and powerful, 89 is a small property of four acres. In 2010, it pro- vors, with a dark, firm structure. The dusty tannins give this has a concentrated plum skin flavor and dark tan- duced this ripe wine from richly structured Merlot and weight and richness. Age this for five years. Total Wine nins. The wine’s intense fruitiness balances the struc- perfumed Cabernet Franc. This is an impressive, plush & More. Cellar Selection. —R.V. ture. This has great aging potential. —R.V. effort, layering its chocolate and toast components over abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: NA Price: $NA the full-bodied blackberry-juice note. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. Château les Vieilles Pierres 2009 Lus- Château Vieux Maillet 2009 Pomerol. abv: 13% Price: $76 91 sac Saint-Émilion. Rich and packed with ripe 91 This dense wine has black plum and chocolate Merlot-based fruit, this is a solid wine, with a berry fla- flavors, which are lifted by attractive acidity. It shows Clos du Clocher 2009 Pomerol. Attractive vor and tannins. The delicious, juicy flavors speak to the structure, richness and power, but all of that is mitigated 89 acidity combines with a judicious use of wood ripe fruit that needs several years to fully mellow and by the fresh edge that elevates the finish. —R.V. aging, producing a wine that is fresh, fragrant and ripe. integrate. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA It has weight while remaining lively and fruity. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA Clos du Canton des Ormeaux 2009 Château Marion d’Audren 2010 Lussac 91 Pomerol. New wood dominates this smooth, Château Guillot Clauzel 2009 Pomerol. 90 Saint-Émilion. This small estate has produced ripe wine. It has a high amount of toast flavor, which is 88 This wine is dark, concentrated, initially hard a rich, smooth 2010, showcasing a delicious, fruity style, sustained by its fragrant fruitiness. As the wine gets into and tannic. Underneath, there is a fresh character from with no hint on the palate of its high alcohol. Red and its stride, it will show richness as well as structure. Cel- the red berry flavors, sweetness and lively acidity. For black fruits mingle easily and warmly, and the propor- medium-term aging over 5–6 years. —R.V. lar Selection. —R.V. tionate acids and tannins suggest potential. Keep for abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA four years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $40 Château Plince 2009 La Fleur de Plince Château Bourgneuf 2009 Pomerol. This is (Pomerol). This fragrant, juicy wine is packed a solid, angular wine, both its structure and its 88 Château Bel Air 2009 Lussac Saint- 90 with red berry notes. Soft, fruity and developing well, it fruit coming together well. It has an underlying new- Émilion­. While the wine has some richness, it has attractive acidity that comes through strongly and 89 wood character that is powerful and rich. The tannins is also firmly structured, with a minerally severity from cuts through the core of firm tannins. —R.V. taste sweet and are already softening. —R.V. its tight tannins. Under the surface, there is a fruity abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA character that’s dominated by a juicy black-currant fla- Clos René 2009 Pomerol. Big and solid, this vor. Total Wine & More. —R.V. Château Haut-Maillet 2009 Pomerol. Opu- is tannic and a solid. It has weight, huge rich- abv: NA Price: $20 lent, ripe and juicy, this is packed with rich red- 88 90 ness and dark tannins. It’s a wine that needs maybe a berry flavors and acidity. It is warm and rounded, and its decade to properly show the fruit that is underneath the juicy character appears right away. Delicious to drink in extensive tannic character. —R.V. MONTAGNE-SAINT- five years or sooner. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA ÉMILION abv: NA Price: $NA Château du Domaine de l’Eglise 2009 Château La Bastienne 2010 Montagne- Château la Pointe 2009 Pomerol. Dark 87 Pomerol. Dry tannins from the old wood give 90 Saint-Émilion. Rich and firmly structured, 90 and concentrated, this has upfront tannins, this wine a hard edge at first. Fresh, juicy red fruits this shows ripe berry and currant notes. It is dense and followed by powerful, ripe black fruits. With its solid, offer an enticing character. On the finish, the tannins juicy, layered with wood notes and loaded with sweet chunky character, it will always be a massive, blockbust- are tough and will need several years to soften Borie- tannins. Like many wines from Montagne-Saint-Émil- er wine. —R.V. Manoux.—R.V. ion, it offers good value. Pierre Courdurie Selections/ abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $80 Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $27 Château Pierhem 2009 Pomerol. An ele- Horeau-Beylot 2009 Pomerol. New wood 90 gant wine, this is lightly perfumed with a fine 87 influence and extraction give the wine a bitter Château Plaisance 2010 Montagne- smoky flavor, which accompanies the generous notes of edge, and a dark chocolate flavor dominates. It has a 89 Saint-Émilion. Ripe and extracted, this shows black fruits. The wood influence still shows prominently core of ripe black fruit that will round out as it develops. more of a bitter chocolate note than a fruit flavor. It has and needs a few years to integrate, but the wine now Solid, chunky, firm and dense. Marsalle/Stoler Compa- a very dry, firmly tannic character, with a dark, smoky is exuberant, full bodied and replete with fruit. Pierre ny. —R.V. feel. Powerful and concentrated, its pepper and spice Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $149 tones accompany the note of black plum skin. Expect abv: 13.5% Price: $90 this to soften slowly over 4–5 years. Baystate Wine & Château Taillefer 2009 Pomerol. Very dry, Spirits. —R.V. Château Plince 2009 Pomerol. The poten- 82 tannic and hard, this is unlikely to soften with abv: 14.5% Price: $25 90 tial for a juicy, fruity wine lurks here beneath time. —R.V. the youthful, extracted tannins. The wine certainly has abv: NA Price: $NA Château Vieux Montagne 2011 Montagne-­ density, with its rich structure coming through strongly. 89 Saint-Émilion. Far too young to even consider However, it needs aging over at least 10 years. —R.V. Château Mazeyres 2009 Pomerol. Round drinking, this is a wine whose potential comes from its abv: NA Price: $NA 81 and lacking form, this shows only tannins. It fea- rich, round, concentrated black fruits and its dense tan- tures some attractive acidity, but it is finally spoiled by a nins. It’s chewy and chunky; age for at least four years. Clos du Beau-Père 2009 Pomerol. Packed rustic character. —R.V. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. 90 with new wood, this is a tough, toasty wine at abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $40 present. It has weight and potential richness, showing that the future development of this concentrated effort LUSSAC SAINT-ÉMILION Château La Bastienne 2009 Montagne- will favor richness while remaining powerful. Cellar 88 Saint-Émilion. This richly perfumed wine is Selection. —R.V. Château Bel Air 2009 Cuvée Jean-Gabriel­ firm with tannins, showing its high alcohol through a abv: NA Price: $NA 91 (Lussac Saint-Émilion). This dense, tannic, sharp peppery edge. It is dense and concentrated, al-

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 most too much so to pair with food. Pierre Courdurie pleasing black-currant flavor. The tannins indicate that years to fully develop. For now, it has firm tannins, cre- Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. it’s also an age-worthy, complex wine. Cellar Selection. ating a dense texture and a solid structure. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $29 —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA Clos Badon 2009 Saint-Émilion. This ripe, SAINT-ÉMILION Château de Candale 2009 Saint-Émilion. 91 sweet-tasting wine balances a new wood note Warm, voluptuous, rich and generous, this wine against a red berry flavor. It’s opulent, rich and gener- La Mondotte 2009 Saint-Émilion. Gener- 92 has the right weight, along with firm, dark tannins and ous, a delicious powerhouse of sumptuous flavors. It can ous, rich and ripe, this boasts black fruits and 95 a bitter coffee flavor. The finish is warm and delicious. be enjoyed soon, and it can age for many years. —R.V. sweet tannins. With layers of new wood, this is a wine Adams French Vineyards. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA that shows attractive fruitiness now and has consider- abv: NA Price: $NA able aging ability. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Clos la Madeleine 2008 Saint-Émilion. abv: NA Price: $NA Château des Laudes 2009 Saint-Émilion. 91 Generous and ripe, this features flavors of Château Angélus 2009 Saint-Émilion. 92 Currently closed, this has the weight and the blackberry and damson. It still shows plenty of youth- richness of its vintage. Given 5–6 years, its sweet- and ful tannins, but these are maturing and softening into a Closed at this stage, this promises a huge, ripe 94 soft-tasting fruit flavors with cut through the firm tan- cushiony texture. —R.V. future. Toast and spice notes are balanced around nins. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA a black plum flavor. The dense, dark tannins create a abv: NA Price: $NA brooding character, which is balanced by freshness on Clos Saint-Julien 2009 Saint-Émilion. the finish. Give this wine at least 10 years. —R.V. Château Fombrauge 2008 Magrez Fom- Chocolate and coffee flavors dominate this firm abv: NA Price: $NA 91 92 brauge (Saint-Émilion). Rich and juicy, this and concentrated wine. It’s big and tannic, but at this

Château Valandraud 2009 Saint-Émilion. features a ripe plum flavor and acidity, resulting in a stage hard and tough. Give it at least 10 years for the wine that is fragrant, fresh and structured. It has power, fruit potential to show. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Big, floral, ripe and juicy, this epitomizes the 94 and its dark concentration is at the heart of this solid ef- abv: NA Price: $NA richness of the 2009 vintage. It offers firm tannins and fort. Bernard Magrez USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. generous, forward fruits. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $140 Sanctus 2009 Saint-Émilion. While the abv: NA Price: $NA 91 wine’s surface is smooth, underneath there are Château Grand Barrail Lamarzelle Figeac Château Valandraud 2008 Saint-Émilion. firm, dry tannins that offer potential for power. New 2008 Saint-Émilion. This wine starts with a wood flavors are still prominent, indicating that this is Ripe and juicy, this is already a delicious, fruity 92 94 shock of acidity, followed by a ripe blackberry note. It still a wine in development. —R.V. wine. It has a fresh fragrance, with tannins and a coffee is upright, structured and still young, and its sweetness abv: NA Price: $NA flavor. Ample acidity gives the finish freshness. It still is just beginning to show through the tannins and acid- needs to age to reveal all its character. Cellar Selec- ity. Give it 3–4 years. Dourthe USA. Cellar Selection. Château de Pressac 2008 Saint-Émilion. tion. —R.V. This juicy wine is packed with a black currant abv: NA Price: $NA —R.V. 90 abv: 13% Price: $38 flavor, plus fragrant tannins and taut acids. Wood aging shows in the form of a bitter chocolate note. It will need Château Edmus 2009 Saint-Émilion. This Château la Bienfaisance 2009 Saint-Émil- to age for at least eight years. —R.V. powerful effort is holding back on its richness 93 ion. This is weighty, closed, dark and dense, abv: NA Price: $NA now, but it has great potential. It has concentration, firm 92 and the tannins dominate. For the time being, the ripe, tannins and round fruit that will soften over the next juicy fruits are overwhelmed by the firm structure. This Château Edmus 2008 Saint-Émilion. several years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Cellar Selection. Made using fruit from a vineyard created by abv: NA Price: $NA needs time. —R.V. 90 abv: NA Price: $NA consultant Stéphane­ Derenoncourt, this wine is cur- Château Faugères 2009 Saint-Émilion. rently closed, but it shows fine aging potential. It has Château la Bienfaisance 2008 Saint-Émil- dense tannins, but also the weight of fresh fruit under- Big and fruity, this is packed with sweet-tasting­ 93 ion. Complex tannins lend this wine weight and neath. Wood is a dominant factor, concentrating into a complex tannins. It is smooth, very dark, ripe and gen- 92 structure. It has a good sense of freshness, and its black point of firm dryness. —R.V. erous. The black fruit flavor gives opulence as well as currant flavor underscores the dark, dry core. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA the power that propels the wine. It needs several years abv: NA Price: $NA of aging. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Château Fombrauge 2008 Saint-Émilion­. abv: NA Price: $NA Château de Ferrand 2009 Saint-Émilion. 90 Rich and full bodied, this wine includes flavors This sweet-tasting, juicy wine shows initial fruit- of black plum and blackberry. It is dense and firmly tan- Château Louis 2009 Saint-Émilion. This 91 iness, and then it packs a punch of dark tannins, a toast nic, with the wood aging still evident. A strong coffee gorgeous wine is full of ripe fruits, which are 93 note and a dry, dark core. With this firm character, it will flavor is a powerful component of this solid, tannic wine. balanced with solid tannins, produing a complex, dense- age over many years. —R.V. Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. ly structured wine. It shows promise for the long term. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $32 Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA Château Fonplégade 2009 Saint-Émilion. Château Franc Grace Dieu 2010 Saint- Émilion. Château Sansonnet 2009 Saint-Émilion. 91 Almost black in color, this is a powerful expres- 90 The Grâce-Dieu sector of Saint-Émil- sion of rich 2009. It feels sumptuous and rich, and the ion lies between the city and the vineyards of Figeac.­ Solid, concentrated and balanced, this has fla- 93 acidity provides good counterweight. There is structure This 30-acre property has produced a structured 2010, vors of black plum skin and blackberry along with lico- from the wood aging that threads through the black bringing out the richness of the black-plum-flavored rice and toast notes. Impressive and ready for long-term fruits. Concentrated and dense, it should age over 5–6 Merlot. At the same time, it has a delicate, perfumed aging. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Cellar Selection. abv: NA Price: $NA years. Adams French Vineyards. character that, along with acidity, gives the wine a final —R.V. lift. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. La Mondotte 2008 Saint-Émilion. There abv: 15% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $29 are strong mint and herb aromas on this round, 93 Château Lynsolence 2008 Saint-Émilion. Château Lassègue 2009 Saint-Émilion. sweet-tasting wine. Its fresh texture is infused with a 91 This is a serious, tannic wine that will need many 90 Powerful and rich, this has sweet tannins that

WineMag.com | 19 overlay a juicy blackberry-jelly flavor. It is sumptuous Clos des Menuts 2009 Saint-Émilion. Château Clos de Sarpe 2008 Saint- and opulent, squeezing out every bit of richness. It has 89 Very rich and concentrated, this is a blockbust- 87 Émilion­. Overripe, this seems like an oddly weight, and its tannins offer a fine future. Kendall-Jack- er wine. Its sweet fruit is packed with a high amount structured wine. The fruit is buried under the wood in- son. —R.V. of toast flavors. Acidity seems to be missing, giving the fluence and tannins, which introduce a licorice charac- abv: NA Price: $NA wine opulence without the final sense of age worthiness. ter. —R.V. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA Château Louis 2008 Saint-Émilion. Firm abv: NA Price: $NA 90 and solid, this has a new-wood smoothness un- Château Fombrauge 2009 Saint-Émilion. derneath the dark tannins. It is concentrated and dense, Château Barde Haut 2008 Saint-Émilion. 87 The wood, with its heavy toast and licorice fla- and the blackberry and plum skin flavors provide a 88 Ripe, rich and generous, this has tannins that vors, is dominant. That element makes for a wine that fruity, juicy aftertaste. —R.V. show the basic structure of the wine, with chocolate and has weight but loses its fruit amid the firm extraction. abv: NA Price: $NA licorice flavors highlighting the wood infuence. At the Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. same time, it has a delicious fruitiness. J.J. Buckley Fine abv: NA Price: $34 Château Tour de Lagarde 2010 Saint- Wines. —R.V. 90 Émilion. Powerful and dense, this is already a abv: NA Price: $NA Château Clos de Sarpe 2009 Saint- smooth, rich wine, and its tannins are cushioned by the 86 Émilion­. This shows the problems of overripe generous blackberry note. There are mint and tar hints Château Faugères 2008 Saint-Émilion. fruit that plagued many 2009s. It is soft, giving the im- along with a smoke accent from the wood, resulting in a 88 Firmly tannic, angular and powerful, this has pression of sweetness, with the structure vastly under- wine that has a dry edge yet is dominated by ripe, juicy concentrated bitter-coffee and licorice flavors that come stated. Juicy and fruity, this is ready to drink now. —R.V. fruit. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. through strongly, offering intense acidity, a black plum abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $60 note and a dark finish. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA Château de Ferrand 2008 Saint-Émilion. Château Valandraud 2009 Virginie de 86 Here’s a solid, dark wine, with an old wood char- 90 Valandraud (Saint-Émilion). This sweet- Château Fonplégade 2009 Fleur de Fon- acter. It has weight, a black plum flavor and dark tan- tasting, fruity wine features a delicious, fragrant, juicy 88 plégade (Saint-Émilion). The second wine nins. This feels old and hard. —R.V. blackberry flavor. Its tannins are solid, but they are sec- of Château Fonplégade, this is packed with Merlot, abv: NA Price: $NA ondary to the generous fruits. —R.V. which accounts for the richness. Juicy and soft, with a abv: NA Price: $NA hint of black plum juice, it’s balanced by a core of tan- Horeau-Beylot 2009 Château Grand Mar- nins and finishes with acidity. A wine that will age quick- 86 tinet (Saint-Émilion). Dry and firm, this is Clos Badon 2008 Saint-Émilion. Minty, ly. Adams French Vineyards. —R.V. smothered with hard-edged tannins that give the wine 90 ripe and concentrated, this wine has notes of abv: 15% Price: $NA a tough character. It will soften a little bit, but not com- sweet plum and spice, with soft, forward tannins. This is pletely. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. likely to mature soon. —R.V. Château La Fortine 2008 Cuvée Les Cè- abv: 13.5% Price: $75 abv: NA Price: $NA 88 dres (Saint-Émilion). The tannins are firm and dry, producing a solid structure. A black currant fla- Château Fombrauge 2009 Magrez Fom- Clos la Madeleine 2009 Saint-Émilion. vor emerges slowly, offering a fruity counterpoint. Al- 85 brauge (Saint-Émilion). This very ripe wine 90 This big, solid, rich effort is packed with seem- though the wine—named after the cedar trees on the is structured with considerable new-wood flavors. It’s ingly sweet fruits and firm tannins, with a bitter extract- property—is ripe and tarry, it needs another year or hard, tannic and extracted, missing a sense of fruitiness. ed feel. The wine has great weight, and it’s a powerful two. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. expression of the rich 2009 vintage. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $50 abv: NA Price: $150 abv: NA Price: $NA Château Lassègue 2008 Saint-Émilion. Château Jacques Noir 2010 Saint- Sanctus 2008 Saint-Émilion. This has 88 This is a round wine, with ripe tannins and a 85 Émilion­. Concentrated chocolate and licorice 90 sweet-tasting, juicy fruit that is immediately ap- sweet-tasting blackberry flavor. It shows a definite sense flavors characterize this wine, which shows signs of ex- pealing. Its firm structure of tannins appear underneath of power, and the freshness of the year is also apparent. traction along with a burn from the alcohol. Its fruit is the ripe red-berry and black currant flavors. It’s devel- Big and chunky, this finishes with a crisp black-currant the high point, with a burst of ripe blackberry juice, plus oping well into an accessible and delicious wine. —R.V. note. Kendall-Jackson. —R.V. a black-currant-like tautness. The superripe Merlot will abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA need several years to soften. Planet Wine. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $30 Château de Pressac 2009 Saint-Émilion. Clos des Menuts 2008 Saint-Émilion. 89 Ripe, juicy and fragrant, this has a delicious red 88 Sweet-tasting fruits dominate this wine. With its Château Péby Faugères 2009 Saint- berry flavor that is ready to give pleasure. Maybe it’s not black currant flavor, it’s a wine that expresses the fresh 85 Émilion­. New wood dominates this wine, a wine for long-term aging, but keep it for at least for character of the vintage without losing its own sense of which is full of rich tannins, and notes of smoky wood, 4–5 years. —R.V. richness. Charming already, it will certainly age. —R.V. licorice and black coffee. The fruit feels extracted, hard- abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA edged and too strong for its own good. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA Château Lynsolence 2009 Saint-Émilion. Barton & Guestier 2010 Saint-Émilion. 89 This is a ripe, fruity wine, with a black currant 87 This tough, tannic wine is all structure and Château Valandraud 2008 Virginie de Va- flavor, layered tannins and refreshing acidity. It’s a wine wood flavor, which results in a firm, solid feel, with a 85 landraud (Saint-Émilion). Dominated by of power yet also of pleasure for drinking now. —R.V. black-currant-driven fruit character. The toast adds a new wood aromas, this is an oaky wine that is all struc- abv: NA Price: $NA burnt edge. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. ture. It is very dry, with chocolate and burnt toast flavors abv: 13.5% Price: $18 providing a hard finish. —R.V. Château Sansonnet 2008 Saint-Émilion. abv: NA Price: $NA 89 Red fruit flavors push their way upfront in this Château Barde Haut 2009 Saint-Émilion. wine, producing a full fruit character that has a juicy, 87 Bitter tannins and heavy toast influence suggest fragrant style. It’s elegant, already offering a fine experi- a wine that has been heavily extracted. Rich and sweet- ence. —R.V. tasting, it has power and a solid, tannic presence. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 concentrated, with a bitter edge. It needs at least four ing the wine’s ripe, fruity character. It has a solid, firm CASTILLON CÔTES DE years to soften out. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. texture, and the wood influence gives a burst of firm BORDEAUX abv: 14% Price: $40 toast. Age for 4–5 years. Zachy’s. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Château l’Estang 2010 Castillon Côtes Château Vieux Ferrand 2011 Cuvée Leg- abv: NA Price: $16 de Bordeaux. 90 This fruity effort from the hill 84 ta (Lalande de Pomerol). Lean, soft and vineyards behind Castillon has weight, structure and a soapy in character, this has a dry core and soft tannins, Château Les Gravières de la Brandille style characterized by full and ripe red fruit. The tan- with a lightweight red-berry note. Not for aging. Serge 90 2009 Cuvée Prestige (Bordeaux Supéri- nins are cushioned by the generous fruit, and the wine Doré Selections. —R.V. eur). Here’s a concentrated effort, with its tannins pro- will improve over the next four years. L & F Distribu- abv: 13% Price: $50 viding a powerful force behind the sweet-tasting fruit. A tors. —R.V. flavor of wood shows strongly, and the wine has a rich, abv: 14% Price: $15 full-bodied feel, with fine structure for aging. Volubilis OTHER RED BORDEAUX Import Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Château Roquevieille 2009 Castillon abv: NA Price: $17 88 Côtes de Bordeaux. Although it carries the BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR structure of the vintage, this wine brings some warmth Château Penin 2010 Les Cailloux (Bor- and a rich blackberry flavor. It has a fine texture and a Château Argadens 2009 Bordeaux Su- 90 deaux Supérieur). This big, smoky, fruity firm, upright feel. Ready for drinking in a year. Saranty 90 périeur. This powerful, concentrated effort wine revels in its rich, black and juicy fruits as much Imports. —R.V. shows dense tannins that are balanced by rich black as in its ripe tannins. It is well constructed, with a sol- abv: 13% Price: $NA fruits. The wine has a sense of elegance that balances id build to balance the full, upfront fruits. Bayfield Im- all of the richness. It’s worth aging for at least 4 years. porting Ltd. —R.V. Château des Demoiselles 2010 Castillon Maison Sichel. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA 86 Côtes de Bordeaux. This is a big, weighty abv: NA Price: $12 tannin- and wood-dominated wine, with a structure that Château Plaisance 2009 Bordeaux Su- is firm, dry and concentrated. It shows the firm struc- Château Barreyre 2009 Bordeaux Supéri- 90 périeur. This is a firmly structured and concen- ture of the year, and the juicy black fruits are still wait- 90 eur. Solid and structured, delicious and fruity, trated wine, featuring black fruit that has the weight to ing to show. Give it 2–3 years. Laville Imports. —R.V. this has all the elements of a firm, balanced wine, with balance the dense, solid tannins. Powered by the rich- abv: 14% Price: $17 a black fruit flavor and sweet acidity, plus a fragrant, ness of the vintage, this should age for 3–4 years. Kysela smoky finish. Age for 4–5 years. Michael Corso Selec- Père et Fils. —R.V. tions. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA OTHER RIGHT BANK abv: NA Price: $22 REDS Château Sainte Marie 2010 Vieilles Vi- Château Darzac 2010 Héritage (Bor- 90 gnes (Bordeaux Supérieur). Powerful, rich Château Bel-Air 2010 Saint- 90 deaux Supérieur). This is a powerful, com- and dense, this has tannins and fruit that share the same 90 Émilion. Firm and closed, this wine’s Merlot plex, wood-aged wine. The elements are all present, but generosity and ripeness. The wood influence provides a content is balanced by a touch of perfumed Cabernet the fruit dominates at the moment. It’s rich and concen- caramel character at the back of the sweet-tasting fruit Franc. It has dark tannins, solid fruits and a depth of fla- trated, showing the potential of a balanced, ripe wine. notes. Age for 4–5 years. Polaner Selections. Best Buy. vor that offers both weight and juicy richness. Still very With all this density and structure, give it four years. —R.V. firm, this wine, which is made using fruit from vineyards Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $11 close to Saint-Émilion­, needs several years to soften and abv: NA Price: $20 become round. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. Château Trocard Monrepos 2009 Bor- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Château Fleur Haut Gaussens 2009 Bor- 90 deaux Supérieur. Powerful and structured, 90 deaux Supérieur. This is packed with just the this offers both the weight and the potential for rich Château Canon 2005 Canon-Fronsac. right amount of tannins and dark fruits. It has weight, fruit. Dominated at this stage by tannins and wood-in- 90 For full review see page 7. structure and a blackberry note. It needs to age at least fluenced flavors, the black plum note is likely to come abv: 13% Price: $40 five years for the full character to emerge.Best Buy. through in the next year. The acidity is crisp, and a bit- —R.V. ter cherry character flavors the finish. Spec’s. Editors’ Château La Croix Romane 2010 Lalande abv: NA Price: $14 Choice. —R.V. 88 de Pomerol. This Merlot-dominated blend abv: NA Price: $17 has resulted in a wine that is both juicy and structured. Château la Croix de Roche 2009 Bor- With its forward flavor of black currant juice, it is sur- 90 deaux Supérieur. Round and fruity, this is Château Beaulieu Comtes de Tastes prisingly ready to drink, although the tannins also prom- dominated by generous fruit flavors and soft tannins. Its 89 2009 Bordeaux Supérieur. A balanced ise aging. It’s ripe and dense, while the final acidity of- open character is backed up by notes of new wood, va- wine that brings together flavors of wood, smoke and fers a fresh finish Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. nilla and some smoky spice. It’s delicious now, and it will ripe black currant, it’s elegant, forward and structured. abv: 14% Price: $37 age over several years. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. Drink soon, or age for several years. Wine Warehouse abv: NA Price: $15 Imports. —R.V. Château Martet 2007 Réserve de Famille abv: NA Price: $15 88 (Sainte-Foy Bordeaux). This wine hovers Château La Mothe du Barry 2010 Cuvee between being lightweight and dense. It’s certainly ma- 90 le Barry (Bordeaux Supérieur). This is a Château de Goëlane 2009 Bordeaux Su- ture, with tar and rose aromas, followed by spice and ci- perfumed wine, and its new wood and violet aromas 89 périeur. This solid, chunky wine expresses dry gar box notes, and layered with acidity. Drink now. L&C create equally pleasant flavors. The surface-level bril- tannins as much as ripe fruit. The structure is present, Wine Country Operations, LLC. —R.V. liance is followed by rich, dark tannins and a blackberry but the black currant note is still waiting for its chance abv: 13.5% Price: $45 note. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. to shine. Give it 4–5 years. Luneau USA Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20 abv: NA Price: $15 Château Tour du Moulin 2010 Fronsac. 88 Spiced with wood notes and bearing extracted Château Lauduc 2009 Prestige (Bor- Château de Terrefort-Quancard 2009 tannins, this is a hard wine at its current stage. It shows 90 deaux Supérieur). Structured and very rich, 89 Bordeaux Supérieur. Big and fruity, this its rich dried-fruit character, which is dense and very this has sweet tannins that provide weight while retain- has generous tannins and ripe black fruits. With its full

WineMag.com | 21 fruits bursting out of the glass, it is already suitable for and ripe stone fruits blend together in this solid, smoky tion to juicy red-berry flavors. The finish is firm and dry. drinking. Delicious, full bodied and a great testament to and bacon-flavored wine. It is soft, firm and generous, Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. the vintage’s quality. —R.V. with a full texture. Laville Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $27 abv: NA Price: $20 abv: NA Price: $15 Château Couronneau 2009 Bordeaux Su- Château Grand Jean 2009 Bordeaux Su- Château le Grand Verdus 2009 Grande 87 périeur. This big, bold wine is full of ripe fruit. 89 périeur. This rounded, wood-aged wine has 88 Réserve (Bordeaux Supérieur). This finely It has a dense structure, with wood-aged flavors and just the right amount of structure and delicious acid- tannic wine features an intensely smoky black-currant firm tannins. The black fruits are showy and likely to de- ity to accompany the full red- and black-berry notes. flavor. It has good depth of flavor, and as the wine ages velop quickly. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. It’s refreshing, while still concentrated and age worthy. further, the fruit will emerge from the tannins. Keep for abv: NA Price: $25 Stoller. Best Buy. —R.V. 3–4 years. BCI LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Château Darzac 2010 Réserve (Bordeaux 87 Supérieur). Rich and structured, this features Château La Mothe du Barry 2010 Vieilles Château Lescalle 2009 Bordeaux Supéri- tannins that pack the same weight as its ripe black fruits. 89 Vignes (Bordeaux Supérieur). A solid and 88 eur. This balanced, ripe wine shows the rich- A wood element shows in the background. The balance dense wine, this is full of firm tannins, plus black currant ness of the year while offering enough structure for ag- is likely to come together in the next year. Best Buy. and berry flavors. It is well structured and concentrated, ing. It has weight and concentration, its black fruits an —R.V. a benefit from using fruit sourced from low-yield old integral part of this dense wine. Monsieur Touton Se- abv: NA Price: $12 vines. With its dark, dense texture, it will age for several lection Ltd. —R.V. years. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $14 Château de Macard 2010 Bordeaux Su- abv: 13.8% Price: $21 87 périeur. Both the aromas and the flavors show Château Lestrille Capmartin 2009 Bor- considerable wood-aging notes that need time to inte- Château La Rose du Pin 2010 Bordeaux 88 deaux Supérieur. Ripe fruits blend well with grate. The wine will begin to show its fruity black-cur- 89 Supérieur. Firm and solid, this features dark tannins in this firm, concentrated wine. It feels rant and red plum flavors in a year. It has the richness chunky tannins and strong structure. It shows its wood rich, with power coming both from the juicy fruit and and ripeness for aging over several years. Serge Doré aging strongly at the moment, which covers some of the the ripe tannic structure. Age for 3–4 years. Charles Selections. —R.V. ripe blackberry flavor. It has weight and power from its Neal Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA dry core and fruit, which promises aging. Laville Im- abv: NA Price: $18 ports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Château Haut-Mongeat 2009 Cuvée Isa- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Château Mirefleurs 2009 Bordeaux Su- 87 belle (Bordeaux Supérieur). Ripe red fruits 88 périeur. This firm, fruity effort shows red berry give this wine a juicy feel. The fruit is balanced, with Château le Grand Verdus 2009 Généra- flavors as well as an underlay of tannins. It is full and new wood and caramel flavors offering a smooth con- 89 tion (Bordeaux Supérieur). A wine with fruity at this stage, and it will likely show more toast trast to each other. The smoky aftertaste is warm and good depth of flavor, this is uses fruit that was selected and structured complexity as it ages. Luneau USA Inc. ripe. Bad Boy. —R.V. from the best parcels of Le Grand Verdus. It has firm —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25 tannins, along with flavors of rich black fruits and wood- abv: NA Price: $15 derived spices. With its weight and concentration, it’s Château Laronde Désormes 2009 Bor- a wine that should age over several years. BCI LLC. Château Roc de Levraut 2010 Bordeaux 87 deaux Supérieur. This is a generous, full-bod- —R.V. 88 Supérieur. Rich and generous, this has a red ied wine that shows the ripe fruit of the vintage. The abv: 13.5% Price: $20 cherry flavor that matches its powerful tannins. It’s fruit appears upfront, offering a warm mouthfeel, and a wine that needs some aging, though because of its the tannic structure is likely to allow it to age. Michael Château Pierrail 2010 Bordeaux Supéri- fruitiness it can also be consumed within the next few Corso Selections. —R.V. 89 eur. While there is plenty of new wood influ- months. It has a fine, refreshing finish. MS Walker. Best abv: NA Price: $25 ence in this wine, it also has delicious fruit. The com- Buy. —R.V. bination results in a juicy flavor of black stone fruit, abv: NA Price: $13 Château Lézin 2010 Bordeaux Supérieur. with good acidity to accompany the toast and smoked 87 Soft, ripe and fruity, this is an attractive, ready- meat flavors. Age for 3–4 years. Regal Wine Imports Château Tour de Gilet 2009 Bordeaux Su- to-drink wine. Its juicy red fruits are balanced with tan- Inc. —R.V. 88 périeur. Smooth and rich, this has tannins that nins, offering a dry contrast. The finish is dark, struc- abv: NA Price: $30 are already well integrated into the ripe red-berry note. tured and suggestive of the wine’s potential for aging. With power and concentration, this is likely to age well, Dourthe USA. Best Buy. —R.V. Château Haut Bessac 2009 Bordeaux Su- and the tannins will soften into a rich, full-bodied, fruity abv: 14% Price: $12 88 périeur. Sweet-tasting flavors of black plums wine. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. and wild strawberries give this wine its initial charm. abv: NA Price: $NA Château Marac 2010 Grande Tradition The tannins provide a firm structure under the attrac- 87 (Bordeaux Supérieur). Big, rich and power- tive surface. It’s rich, ripe and already a pleasure. Seren- Domaine de Courteillac 2009 Bordeaux ful, this extracted wine shows density, sweet tannins and dipity Wine Imports. —R.V. 88 Supérieur. This is a full, ripe wine, with tan- dark fruits. It is ripe and strong, the structure perhaps abv: NA Price: $NA nins that are already well integrated into the red fruits. overshadowing the rest of the wine. Wine Agencies Inc. It’s rich and full, packed with delicious ripeness. A wine —R.V. Château La Rose du Pin 2009 Bordeaux for pleasure in the next few months, but it will also abv: NA Price: $NA 88 Supérieur. This wine takes a while to show its age well for 3–4 years. Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. stuff, but when it opens, it reveals a warm and richly —R.V. Château Montet 2009 Cuvée Prestige structured character. Flavors of wood and sweet-tasting abv: NA Price: $19 87 (Bordeaux Supérieur). Dark and brooding, fruits combine on the generous finish. Laville Imports. this is characterized by a plum skin note, plus firm tan- —R.V. Horeau-Beylot 2010 Château Lajarre nins and a solid structure. It’s concentrated and dense, a abv: NA Price: $15 88 (Bordeaux Supérieur). With a significant wine that is serious and needs to age for 4–5 years. The proportion of Cabernet Franc, this is a perfumed and finish has a firm feel. Total Wine & More. —R.V. Château Lamothe-Vincent 2010 Héritage elegant wine. It has a serious edge of tannins in addi- abv: NA Price: $20 88 (Bordeaux Supérieur). Notes of sweet wood

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 Château Montlau 2010 Bordeaux Supéri- Château La Mothe du Barry 2010 Bor- Château de Lugagnac 2009 Bordeaux 87 eur. Rich and fruity, this wine is balanced, with 86 deaux Supérieur. This soft, fruity wine is 84 Supérieur. This big, powerful and tannic wine tannins and red fruits in harmony. It has weight and lined with acidity and gentle tannins. It has a ripe red- shows a dry character that dominates the black currant richness without being overpowerful. Ready to drink in berry flavor, with a touch of cherry and some dryness and berry notes. The old wood flavors seem out of sync six months. Vintage Trading Inc. —R.V. toward the finish. Not for long-term aging. Elite Wines with the rest of the palate. Frederick Wildman & Sons, abv: NA Price: $17 Import. —R.V. Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.8% Price: $16 abv: NA Price: $14 Château Pey la Tour 2009 Réserve du 87 Château (Bordeaux Supérieur). Smoky, Château le Gardera 2010 Bordeaux Su- Château Maréchaux 2009 Bordeaux Su- ripe and juicy, this wine’s weight and tannins are sec- 86 périeur. This very dry wine has tough tannins 84 périeur. This dry, darkly tannic wine is all about ondary to the plum note and balancing acidity. The wine at this stage. Under its firm exterior, this has textured structure and firmness. It has weight, but the fruit is is open, generous and delicious already. Dourthe USA. black currant fruit, which is cut through with acidity. submerged under the wood and the solid tannins. Aviva —R.V. This will likely continue to maintain firm tannins along Vino. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $17 abv: NA Price: $18 with its severe fruit. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Château Turcaud 2010 Cuvée Majeure Château Sainte Barbe 2010 Bordeaux (Bordeaux Supérieur). Juicy fruit is present Supérieur. No Bordeaux should clock in at 87 Château de Brague 2009 Bordeaux Su- 84 in this wine, with firm, extracted tannins. It needs time 15% alcohol, and this wine shows its power in extracted périeur. Soft and ripe, this wine is all fruit and to show its potential black-currant and berry notes. Give 85 tannins and licorice flavor. Its acidity helps to mitigate sweet acidity. There is a light yet generous mouthfeel, it 3–4 years. Sussex Wine Merchants. —R.V. the heat, but the flavor of black plum juice is heavier with its tannins following its open fruitiness. PS Wines. abv: NA Price: $18 than the structure. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine —R.V. Partners. —R.V. Cave de Rauzan 2009 Haut de Fontaneau abv: NA Price: $15 abv: 15% Price: $18 86 (Bordeaux Supérieur). Ripe and fruity, this features red fruits that are layered with firm tannins. It Château de Parenchère 2010 Bordeaux Château Vergnes Beaulieu 2009 Bor- has both weight and attractive fruit acidity, which pro- 85 Supérieur. An attractive, caramel- and red- 84 deaux Supérieur. With new wood aromas, vide structure and freshness. It’s a wine that is drinkable fruit-flavored wine, this has soft tannins and ripe berry this is a toast-dominated wine. The burnt character now and also has aging potential. DBA Prestige Wines. notes that are lined with acidity. Not for long aging, it’s dominates fruit, leaving a bitter taste. It’s likely to re- —R.V. ready to drink now. Stacole Fine Wines. —R.V. main oaky and dry. European Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $17 abv: NA Price: $19

Château Belle Garde 2010 Excellence Château Gamage 2009 Bordeaux Supéri- Château Beau Rivage 2009 Bordeaux Su- 86 (Bordeaux Supérieur). A perfumed new- 85 eur. Ripe and fruity, this bears its red berry fla- 83 périeur. This warm wine is reminiscent of vin- wood influence gives this wine a smooth, polished, mint- vor right up front. It has richness and concentration, tage Port. It is sweet, with dominating nut and super- flavored character. Its fruits and tannins come firmly to and the tannins give a core of dryness to this otherwise ripe fruit flavors. It’s soft and gently flabby. Via Pacifica a sharply etched point. It needs time to soften. —R.V. fruit-forward wine. Heidelberg Distribution. —R.V. Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $25

Château Bois Noir 2009 Bordeaux Su- Château l’Escart 2010 Cuvée Eden (Bor- Château Cluzan 2009 Bordeaux Supéri- 86 périeur. New wood dominates this soft wine. 85 deaux Supérieur). Perfumed and fragrant, 83 eur. This is all fruit and no structure. The fruit The fruit is round and smoky, featuring notes of black this shows wood and fruity perfumes in harmony. It’s at- shows a superripe character, which suggests this is a cherries and red plums that fall behind a toasty caramel tractive, forward and ready to drink. Fruit of the Vines, wine for short-term aging. BNP Distributing. —R.V. sweetness. It needs several months for the wood influ- Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20 ence to integrate. Wines Unlimited, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $19 abv: NA Price: $NA Château de Bel 2010 Bordeaux Supéri- Château Lajarre 2010 Bordeaux Supéri- 83 eur. Juicy and fruity, this has ripeness without Château de Brondeau 2009 Bordeaux eur. Sweet new-wood aromas introduce a wine much structure. This is for early drinking. Hand Picked Supérieur. 85 86 This is a full-bodied wine, with tan- that is soft and vanilla-flavored, with a gentle weight of Selections. —R.V. nins that have melded into the ripe character. Red and fruit. It is warm, rounded and likely to age quickly. Misa abv: NA Price: $15 black fruits push through the warm, open structure. Imports. —R.V. This is meant for drinking soon. Stacole Fine Wines. Château le Grand Verdus 2009 Bordeaux abv: NA Price: $13 —R.V. 83 Supérieur. This is a lightweight wine with fruit abv: NA Price: $14 that tastes overripe. It has a soft, fruity texture, and its Cru Monplaisir 2010 Bordeaux Supéri- gentle tannins are touched by acidity. BCI LLC. —R.V. eur. Big and fruity, this shows its red fruits im- Château Feret Lambert 2010 Costes du 85 abv: 13% Price: $14 86 Château Feret Lambert (Bordeaux Su- mediately. It is perfumed, juicy and fragrant, and the périeur). A very closed wine, this buries its ripe fruits tannins offer structure, though the fruit trumps it some- Château de Lisennes 2009 Tradition beneath a solid structure of tannins. There is weight, so what. It’s likely to develop quickly over the next year. 82 (Bordeaux Supérieur). On the lean side, the wine is likely to develop well, developing richness Martine’s Wines. —R.V. this wine has an intense black-currant flavor and acidity, and firmness. JF Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $24 producing a wine that tastes mean and is not likely to abv: NA Price: $15 age. Binny’s Beverage Depot. —R.V. Kirkland Signature 2010 Bordeaux Su- abv: NA Price: $12 Château Haut Mallet 2009 Bordeaux Su- 85 périeur. Here’s a wine that, while expressing 86 périeur. Big, ripe and fruity, this has tannins the structure of the vintage, brings warmth and a rich Château de Monrecueil 2011 Bordeaux that are well integrated into the complex, dense fruit blackberry flavor as well. It has a fine texture and a firm, 82 Supérieur. A meat-flavored wine without texture. Wood flavors offer a counterpoint to the berry upright feel. Ready for drinking in a year. Misa Imports. much charm, this has tannins and red berry notes, along notes and final acidity. Chartrand Imports. —R.V. Best Buy. —R.V. with a strong whiff of sulfur. USA Wine West. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $7 abv: NA Price: $7

WineMag.com | 23 Château l’Isle Fort 2009 Bordeaux Su- Château La Rame 2010 Bordeaux. Per- Château Buisson-Redon 2009 Bordeaux. 82 périeur. A flavor of black currant drop gives 90 fumed new wood aromas lead into a wine that 88 Solidly structured, this features concentrated this wine a sweet-tasting, overripe sensation. There is has its fair share of wood influence. Rich black fruit tannins and powerful, ripe fruits. It has weight, and its little structure and no great aging potential. Christopher is also found, which is balanced with the toastiness. rich black fruits are layered with acidity. Age for at least Imports. —R.V. It’s ripe and likely to offer even more pleasure in the three years. Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing abv: NA Price: $NA next 2–3 years. Rosenthal Wine Merchants. Editors’ LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $9 Château Recougne 2010 Bordeaux Su- abv: NA Price: $16 82 périeur. This is bizarrely perfumed: It tastes Château de Virecourt 2010 Bordeaux. like a candy shop smells, with a note of fruit jelly. The Château Rauzan Despagne 2010 Châ- 88 Smooth and luscious, this is full of chocolate tannins are taut, but the wine doesn’t hang together. 90 teau Rauzan-Despagne Réserve (Bor- and blackberry flavors. It has weight, richness and ripe Vintus LLC. —R.V. deaux). This is a finely balanced, if still very structured fruit, with dark tannins creating the firm structure. With abv: NA Price: $19 wine. It has powerful tannins, but also rich, black, juicy the depth of flavor and the structure, it is going to age, fruits that are coming into integration. Solid and con- though it’s also ready to drink now. A great improve- Château Roc Meynard 2010 Bordeaux centrated, the wine has great potential and needs to age ment on past vintages from this estate. Laville Imports. 82 Supérieur. The fruit seems overripe, with a for at least four years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. juicy character. A core of tannins balances the palate, —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 and a meaty flavor creeps in on the finish. Bourgeois abv: NA Price: $15 Family Selections. —R.V. Château Haut Mondain 2010 Grande abv: NA Price: $16 Château Tour de Mirambeau 2010 Châ- 88 Réserve (Bordeaux). This smooth, rich wine 90 teau Tour de Mirambeau Réserve (Bor- brings a delicious red-fruit flavor right to the fore, pil- Trocard 2009 Bordeaux Supérieur. There deaux). Wood-aged and smoky, this is a solid, firm ing on the structure of sweet tannins. There is a smoky 82 is an awkwardness to this wine, coming from the wine. It is balanced, and its ripe fruits are already pres- character and fragrant acidity. It will be ready to drink overripe fruit and juicy character. It lacks structure and ent, offering a rich experience of warm tannins and in six months. Laithwaites Wines. —R.V. will likely age quickly. Spec’s. —R.V. black plum fruitiness. It will broaden and soften over abv: NA Price: $15 abv: NA Price: $13 the next 3–4 years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Château Larroque 2010 Bordeaux. This is Château Bellevue 2010 Bordeaux Supéri- abv: NA Price: $17 88 a ripe, rounded and firmly tannic wine. It has 81 eur. This wine’s fruit is overripe, which spoils weight and a dense texture, with a black plum flavor. the structure that has been built around it. Esprit du Château Pey la Tour 2009 Bordeaux. This With its fruits, sweet tannins and solid structure, it’s Vin. —R.V. 89 wine is rich and smooth, and the power of its likely to age well over several years. Baystate Wine & abv: NA Price: $15 tannins are already integrated into the complex plum Spirits. —R.V. and blackberry flavors. It has a solid structure, with abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Château de la Cour d’Argent 2010 Bor- weight and an open feel. Dourthe USA. Best Buy. 81 deaux Supérieur. This has loads of wood that —R.V. Château les Arromans 2010 Cuvée Pres- seems to hide the fruit. It has a bitter wood flavor of abv: NA Price: $13 88 tige (Bordeaux). Dense and solid, this has burnt toast, plus extracted tannins. J.J. Buckley Fine dusty tannins that contrast firmly with the juicy black- Wines. —R.V. Château Pilet 2010 Bordeaux. While there berry note and the rich texture. The acidity laces abv: NA Price: $NA 89 are wood aromas, this has enough rich black through, providing freshness. This could well age for fruits to balance the toasty, caramel character. It is still several years, but with its big fruit flavors, it is also ready Château la Verrière 2010 Bordeaux Su- firm and tannic, but in the next two years it will become to drink now. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. 81 périeur. This wine is all wood, with no promise a solid, rich wine. Integrity Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15 of fruit. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $20 Château Saint-Germain 2010 Bordeaux. Château Roustaing 2010 Vieilles Vignes 88 Here’s a big, tannic wine, with a structure that’s Château Majoureau 2009 Hyppos (Bor- 89 (Bordeaux). An attractively balanced wine, matched by the rich fruits. It is solid and chunky, with 80 deaux Supérieur). Lean and rather dry, this this shows fruitiness that’s supported by fine tannins. an attractive, smoky, juicy character that balances the has old wood and lean fruit flavors. Wine Markets Inter- It’s a ripe wine, ready to drink now, with black currant firm texture. Age for 3–4 years. —R.V. national, Inc. —R.V. juice and red plum flavors giving pleasure. MS Walker. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $25 —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15 Château Sainte-Barbe 2010 Merlot de Château Timberlay 2009 Bordeaux Su- 88 Château Sainte-Barbe (Bordeaux). This is 80 périeur. This very ripe wine tastes of superma- Château Sainte-Anne 2010 Domaine du a firmly tannic, solid wine, with a black currant note, ture grapes; it’ s soft and formless. Terlato Wines Inter- 89 Bourdieu (Bordeaux). This is firm, smoky tight acidity and good depth of flavor. It is worth aging national. —R.V. and fruity—a combination that offers a rich black-fruit- for 2–3 years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Part- abv: NA Price: $20 ed experience. Wood flavors provide some density. Rich ners. —R.V. and perfumed, it needs to age over two years. Chartrand abv: NA Price: $15 Imports. —R.V. BORDEAUX abv: NA Price: $17 Château Turcaud 2010 Bordeaux. Densely Château du Lort 2009 Bordeaux. This 88 textured, this has firm and dark tannins. Power- 90 firm, strongly tannic wine possesses all the right Domaine de Valmengaux 2009 Bordeaux. ful notes of rich berry and stone fruit give weight to this weight and richness. Dense tannins push the wine for- 89 This wood-aged wine is soft and rounded. It has concentrated wine. This needs time to age. Sussex Wine ward, with a sweet-tasting plum note, plus acidity. For a ripe black-plum flavor and a generous texture, which Merchants. —R.V. aging over 4–5 years. Luneau USA Inc. Best Buy. brings out the richness of the vintage. There is a fine abv: NA Price: $12 —R.V. line of refreshing acidity on the finish. Great Signature abv: NA Price: $15 Wine LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 Schröder & Schyler 2010 Chartron La Château Lagarère 2010 Bordeaux. Packed spice gives the wine an extra edge. Fruity and ripe, 88 Fleur Merlot-Cabernet (Bordeaux). For 87 with spicy wood flavors, this is a rich, black- ready to drink soon. Tenzing Wine and Spirits. —R.V. full review see page 10. Best Buy. fruited wine. It has a sense of structure that comes as abv: 12% Price: $13 abv: NA Price: $12 much from the wood as from tannins. On the finish, the black-currant-like acidity kicks in. Serge Doré Selec- Château les Ancres 2009 Bordeaux. For Thunevin 2009 Bad Boy (Bordeaux). Very tions. —R.V. 86 full review see page 10. Best Buy. 88 dense and tannic, this wine is hiding its fruit be- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $12 hind its firm structure. It is solid, chunky and powerful, with plenty of weight that will always be dry. Needs to Château Lamothe-Vincent 2010 Bor- Château les Vergnes 2009 Bordeaux. age for several years. MS Walker. —R.V. 87 deaux. Ripe and juicy, this shows red fruits 86 With its strong tannins, the dark and dry side of abv: NA Price: $30 and soft, broad tannins. The fruity concentration gives this wine dominates. But the weight of the blackberry it a generous feel. Keep for 2–3 years, or drink sooner. fruit follows behind, promising a richer, rounder future Thunevin 2009 Domaine Virginie Thun- Laville Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. after 2–3 years of aging. Allied Importers. —R.V. 88 evin (Bordeaux). This is a rich and rounded abv: NA Price: $12 abv: NA Price: $13 wine, and its tannins have already integrated into the soft, ripe black fruits. It has concentration and an attrac- Château le Noble 2010 Bordeaux. Solid, Château Nicot 2009 Bordeaux. This has tive juiciness for drinking after 1–2 years. T. Edward 87 concentrated and chunky, the dense black fruits 86 ripe red fruits, with a fine line of acidity cutting Wines Ltd. —R.V. surround a foursquare core of extracted dryness. Age through its rich texture. It is full and fruity, and the tan- abv: NA Price: $20 for at least three years. Elixirs du Monde. —R.V. nins act as good support for the forward fruit flavors. abv: NA Price: $18 Fine Vines. —R.V. Vignobles Chaigne et Fils 2010 Château abv: NA Price: $13 88 Ballan-Larquette (Bordeaux). Big and pow- Château Malbec 2009 Bordeaux. Initially, erful tannins give this wine a dry, dense and extracted 87 the acidity cuts through this structured effort. Château Portillon 2010 Bordeaux. This feel. Black fruits power through the structure, offering Then the ripe fruits surface, creating a wine that is both 86 fruity wine is attractive, soft and ready to drink. a rich experience. No shy violet, this is a wine with con- rich and firmly textured. It is full in the mouth, rich and It has lifted acidity, a black currant flavor, and a fine siderable concentration and aging potential. Exclusive age worthy. Luneau USA Inc. —R.V. spicy character. Ready to drink. Michael Corso Selec- Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15 tions. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15 abv: NA Price: $14 Château Moulin de Mallet 2010 Bor- Vignobles Meijer 2010 Château Auguste 87 deaux. With its forward acidity, this shows its Château Sainte-Barbe 2010 Merlot (Bor- (Bordeaux). Good structure, acidity and a fresh side before revealing its ripe red-berry flavors. 86 deaux). A rich but well balanced wine, this fea- 88 Tannins form a firm, solid base that dominates the fin- black currant note give this wine a balanced feel. It tures ripe flavors and integrated tannins. A juicy black- ish. Costco. Best Buy. —R.V. shows a fresh character that’s very fruity and attractive. currant note sits with the dusty structure, with fragrant abv: NA Price: $12 Not very deep, but pleasant now. Constantine Wines. acidity on the finish. The Château Sainte-Barbe is at the —R.V. end of the promontory that lies between the Dordogne Château Roquefort 2009 Bordeaux. In abv: NA Price: $15 and Garonne Rivers just before they meet. Pierre Cour- this warm and ripe effort, the flavors of red cur- 87 durie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. rants and plums work with the underlying tannins and Baron la Rose 2009 Vieilles Vignes (Bor- abv: 14.5% Price: $13 acidity. This has just the right weight, making for a wine deaux). Smooth, wood-aged, polished and 87 that has attractive fruitiness and light tannins. - juicy, this is an attractive, fruity Bordeaux, with red Château Tour Chapoux 2010 Bordeaux. Lehmann. —R.V. berry notes and a light tannic structure. It has some of In this soft, ripe wine, the structure is comfort- abv: NA Price: $20 86 the richness of the vintage and is ready to drink. Sovex ably buried in the rich black fruits. It’s warm, ripe and Woltner. —R.V. Cheval Quancard 2009 Chai de Bordes spicy, with a line of acidity coming through on the finish. abv: 13% Price: $14 87 (Bordeaux). This is a fruity effort, with a Best Buy. —R.V. blackberry note that is laced with attractive tannins and abv: NA Price: $13 Château de la Bouyère 2010 Bordeaux. acids. With its smooth, ripe texture and full mouthfeel, This is a fruity wine, and its black currant fla- Château Vieux Manoir 2010 Bordeaux. 87 this is already approachable. Best Buy. —R.V. vor emerging right away. Next comes the bright acidity, abv: 13.5% Price: $12 86 A wine from the Entre-deux-Mers region of while the tannins form a solid, dark and dry contrast. Bordeaux­, this is light, fruity and fresh in character. Its The wine needs at least two years to soften into some- Bernard Magrez 2010 Le Bordeaux de red berry flavors dominate, with acidity providing a fine thing rich. Slocum & Sons, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 86 Bernard Magrez (Bordeaux). A finely tan- counter-balance to the ripe fruitiness. Roanoke Valley abv: NA Price: $10 nic and structured wine, this brings out the firm edge of Wine Company. Best Buy. —R.V. 2010 while also offering a generous black-currant note. abv: 14% Price: $10 Château Joinin 2009 Bordeaux. In this It is well balanced, and the vibrant acidity on the finish 87 toasty, wood-dominated wine, the fruit is bur- lends lift. Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. Cheval Quancard 2009 Réserve (Bor- ied beneath dark, dry tannins. It has enough weight to abv: 13.5% Price: $13 86 deaux). A soft and ripe wine, this is dominated promise a future when the elements fall into balance, so by round, juicy Merlot. It’s a fruity selection, with soft give it 4–5 years. Masciarelli Wine Co. —R.V. Château Briot 2010 Bordeaux. Fruity and tannins that add just enough structure to the open and abv: NA Price: $15 86 lightweight, this is softly tannic, with red fruit drinkable character. Ready now. —R.V. flavors. It’s open and juicy, confirming that this is not a abv: 13% Price: $15 Château La Maroutine 2009 Bordeaux. wine for more than medium-­term aging. Jandell Selec- 87 Powerful and rich, this wine tastes of black and tions. —R.V. Dourthe 2010 Bordeaux. Firm wood and red berries. The ripeness of the vintage is evident, with abv: 12% Price: $13 86 mint flavors push through the ripe black-currant a dense character that lends weight and concentration, note, producing a wine that has both structure and fruit. while adding fresh black-currant-like acidity. Slocum & Château La Rose du Pin 2010 Bordeaux. It’s ready to drink, although it could age a year. Thiénot Sons, Inc. —R.V. 86 Fragrant and fruity, this has red berry notes that USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15 bond easily with the soft tannins. A mere touch of wood abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

WineMag.com | 25 Exem 2010 Bordeaux. This fruity, ready- takes a while for the red berry flavor to surface, offer- Les Hauts de Lagarde 2011 Bordeaux. 86 to-drink selection is packed with black currant ing a wine that has potential for richness in 3–4 years 84 This exhibits stalky fruit, with some weight be- and berry flavors that are ripe and structured. The wine time. It will always have a final, mineral-driven tautness. hind it. A black currant flavor dominates, with a ripe, has some firm tannins, though its perfumed character Youngs Market Co. —R.V. jammy feel. For short-term aging. Natural Merchants makes it ready to drink now. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12 LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: NA Price: $13 Augey 2011 Bordeaux. Young and fruity, Barton & Guestier 2010 Bordeaux. This 84 this wine can be enjoyed now for its fruitiness Sirius 2009 Bordeaux. There is a mineral- 85 wood-laden wine has a black currant note and or aged over 2–3 years. The attractive black-currant fla- 84 ly texture to this structured, severe wine. It has a fragrant, spice-driven character. These elements ac- vor is pleasant now. DBA Prestige Wines. —R.V. some weight, but it shows a stalky black-currant flavor company fine structure and intense acidity. Drink this abv: NA Price: $NA and dry tannins. The finishis lean. Maison Sichel. —R.V. fruity wine now, or age it for one year. Barton & Gues- abv: NA Price: $NA tier USA. Best Buy. —R.V. Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2010 Mou- Château des Combes 2010 Bordeaux. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 ton Cadet (Bordeaux). This is a toasty, black- 84 This lightweight wine is dominated by juicy currant-fruited wine. Its structural tannins give a dry 83 Bernard Magrez 2009 Réserve de la red fruit. Fresh in character, it has bright acids and soft character. A touch of green herb and a hard edge of Famille (Bordeaux). Soft, juicy, sweet-tasting tannins. Not a wine for aging. Baystate Wine & Spirits. 85 toast indicate that the wine needs another year to soft- fruit produce a ripe and rounded character. This blend- —R.V. en. Constellation Brands, Inc. —R.V. ed Bordeaux, from Bernard Magrez, is rich, offering a abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 blackberry note and gentle tannins that are surrounded by a generous texture. Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. Château Grands Bois 2009 Bordeaux. Bernard Magrez 2010 Maison Magrez abv: 13% Price: $15 This is a dense, wood- and tannin-laden wine. (Bordeaux). A textured wine, this has ripe 83 84 It’s hard, with a dry and unyielding structure. In one Château Cinc-Hilhs 2009 Bordeaux. On fruit that still shows a green, herbal character. It has year, it should be more generous. Wayne Imports. 85 the lean side, this is a tense, severe wine that of- weight and a ripe black-currant flavor, plus juicy acid- —R.V. fers few flavors at this stage. It’s hard, and the wood and ity and soft tannins. Ready to drink. Bernard Magrez abv: NA Price: $13 tannins dominate the fruit. It’s always likely to be firm, USA. —R.V. although an attractive smokiness will become pleasant abv: 14% Price: $10 Château le Bergey 2010 Bordeaux. This in 2–3 years. Aviva Vino. —R.V. 83 perfumed wine is tough on the palate. It has a abv: NA Price: $16 Château Beauregard-Ducourt 2010 Bor- firm, dry core, surrounded by red-currant-driven acid- 84 deaux. In this hard-edged wine, structure pre- ity. The finish is out of balance. Eno a Mano. —R.V. Château de Fontenille 2010 Bordeaux. cludes the fruit from surfacing. There is a black currant abv: NA Price: $10 85 Ripe and spicy, this is an attractive package of element, but the tannins are likely to always dominate warm tannins and red berries. This wine has a solid, dry this firm, austere selection. Baystate Wine & Spirits. Vignobles Pueyo 2009 Tellus Vinea (Bor- core, but it will develop fast—delicious within a year. —R.V. 83 deaux). Dry and tannic initially, the wine Stacole Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 opens up to reveal a soft, fruity character. It is still com- abv: NA Price: $14 pact, with some bitterness from overextraction. Rosen- Château Bel Air Moulard 2009 Bordeaux. thal Wine Merchants. —R.V. Château Lauduc 2010 Classic (Bor- 84 Dark and structured, dense and tannic this has abv: NA Price: $15 85 deaux). Ripe and juicy, this wine has good considerable structure, but it’s unlikely to age. Eastern acidity that accompanies the attractive, seemingly sweet Wine Distributors. —R.V. Château du Pin 2009 Bordeaux. This tannins. Concentrated, it needs several years to broaden abv: NA Price: $NA 82 smells and tastes like cherry Powerade—soft out. Zachy’s. —R.V. and merely fruity. Not for aging. Stacole Fine Wines. abv: NA Price: $16 Château Chaubinet 2011 Bordeaux. With —R.V. a blackberry flavor and a juicy character, this is abv: NA Price: $NA Château le Moulin de la Jaumarde 2009 84 a wine that has a bright, fresh feel and soft tannins. Me- Bordeaux. This is a structured wine, with dry Château la Freynelle 2009 Bordeaux. 85 trowine Distribution. —R.V. tannins and notes of berry and red cherry. The fruit Fruity and without structure, this wine is soft abv: NA Price: $12 82 comes through the smoky character, bringing sweet- and feels rather dilute. The red fruits dominate and will age quickly. Screwcap. Winebow. —R.V. tasting acidity. Give this wine 3–4 years to age. Majestic Château Gabaron 2010 Bordeaux. An abv: NA Price: $14 Wines INC. —R.V. herbal wine, with a light in texture, this Bor- abv: NA Price: $15 84 deaux has smoke and tobacco aromas that make it bright Château Lafont Fourcat 2010 Bordeaux. and ready to drink. Screwcap. Authentique Vin. —R.V. Château Montet 2009 Bordeaux. This wine This firm, dry wine is all tannins and bitter ex- abv: NA Price: $NA 82 85 is on the lean side, with a black currant flavor, traction. It has a hard side to it that the juicy fruit cannot tight tannins and intense acidity. Although it shows balance. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. Château Garrineau 2009 Bordeaux. This fruitiness, the main thrust is severe. Total Wine & More. abv: NA Price: $20 attractive, fruity wine has soft tannins and a tex- Best Buy. —R.V. 84 abv: NA Price: $10 ture that is dominated by spice and fruit notes and acid- L’Esprit du Couvent 2010 Bordeaux. In ity. It has a juicy red-cherry finish. Malbec & Malbec 82 this herbaceous wine, the aromas are less at- Château Pey la Tour 2010 Bordeaux. Cellars. —R.V. tractive than the smooth, wood-aged fruit flavors. There 85 Fruity and rather soft, this already shows ma- abv: NA Price: $13 is, however, an edge of green bell pepper that suggests turity. It’s an attractive, red-fruited wine that’s light and underripe fruit. Bayfield Importing Ltd. —R.V. fragrant. Not for aging. Dourthe USA. —R.V. Château Pasquet 2010 Bordeaux. In this abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $13 84 toasty wine, the wood smothers the fruit and adds a burnt character. It feels austere, not one to easily Château Tire Pé 2009 Bordeaux. Meat Château Roc de Ségur 2010 Bordeaux. reveal its treasures. Bacchus Imports, Inc. —R.V. 81 and bacon aromas introduce a wine that is taut, 85 This is tight and closed, with bitter tannins. It abv: NA Price: $16 structured and high on the acidity. It has a lean, slightly

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 dirty taste, which is not attractive. Jenny and François showing an attractive, refreshing fruitiness. Baystate ing through. Keep for 2–3 years. Baron Francois Ltd. Selections. —R.V. Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $16 abv: 12% Price: $13 abv: 12.5% Price: $20

Château les Arromans 2011 Entre-Deux- Barton & Guestier 2011 Graves. This fine, CADILLAC CÔTES DE 88 Mers. This rich, ripe and fruity wine features 87 oily-textured wine strikes a good balance be- BORDEAUX white fruits, a soft texture and balanced acidity. With tween an herbaceous character and a firm, mineral tex- the rounded texture, it feels warm, though the Sauvi- ture. A touch of spice adds further interest on the finish. Château Tanesse 2010 Cadillac Côtes de gnon Blanc also provides the essential herbaceous edge. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. 89 Bordeaux. New-wood flavors abound in this Age for a few months. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 firmly structured, dry wine. With its tannins at the fore, abv: 12.5% Price: $15 plus its heavy toast and sweet-tasting black-fruit flavors, Château l’Avocat 2011 Graves. In this soft it has weight and density. This is likely to age well over Château de Fontenille 2011 Entre-Deux- 86 wine, a herbaceous character evolves into ripe 3–4 years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. 87 Mers. Crisp, clean and fruity, this refreshing yellow- and white-fruit flavors. It’s crisp and clean, yet abv: 14% Price: $NA wine has an herb note that’s restrained by ripe orange it has a soft texture that’s full and rich. It is not for aging and green apple flavors. Bright and ready to drink. and will be ready in six months. Screwcap. K&L Wine Château de Lestiac 2010 Cuvée Prestige Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. Merchants. —R.V. 88 (Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux). Prestige abv: 12.5% Price: $14 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 here seems to mean “pile on the wood,” because this is an oak-laden wine. It’s heavy on the toast note, mak- Château la Grande Métaire 2011 Cuvée Château des Perligues 2011 Graves. Her- ing it taste almost burnt. The tannins are still bitter, and 87 la Chapelle (Entre-Deux-Mers). Deliciously 85 baceous in character, this also shows a creamy they need time to soften. However, the fruit is there, crisp, this wine expresses herbaceous fruit, with weight edge. Notes of ripe apples blend with touches of citrus with the promise of becoming dense. Serge Doré Se- and richness. Full of lime, gooseberry and grapefruit fruits. A yeasty note spoils the purity of the fruit, but it’s lections. —R.V. flavors, this is a taut wine that’s likely to soften. Serge likely to disappear as the wine ages for a few months. abv: NA Price: $NA Doré Selections. —R.V. Roanoke Valley Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $13

BORDEAUX ROSÉ Château La Mothe du Barry 2011 Entre- Château Toumilon 2009 Graves. Once you Château Larroque 2011 Bordeaux Rosé. 87 Deux-Mers. Very herbaceous and fruity, this 85 get past the sulfur aroma, this wine shows some 86 This is fruity, fresh and crisp. Its red fruit and has gooseberry, lime and pink grapefruit flavors. It’s a richness, offering a melon note that’s cut through with citrus touches are lively and bright, providing just the light, bright and attractive, and it will be ready to drink lemony acidity. It’s now ready to drink. Table & Vine. right amount of texture on the finish. This is the perfect in a few months. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $13 apéritif rosé. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Cheval Quancard 2011 Cuvée Clémence Chateau le Grand Verdus 2011 Bordeaux 86 (Entre-Deux-Mers). Spicy wood aromas make BORDEAUX BLANC this an attractive wine. It has nutmeg and pear flavors, Rosé. An attractively fragrant rosé, this is very Château Ducla 2011 Experience (Bor- 86 livened by crisp acidity and a touch of herbaceousness. crisp and clean. It has lively raspberry and red currant deaux Blanc). This spicy wine is produced by —R.V. 91 flavors that are lightly touched by a herb note. A bright the Mau family. It has an attractive cinnamon element, abv: 12% Price: $13 finish completes this refreshing wine. BCI LLC. —R.V. a touch of toast, and a concentrated texture that brings abv: 12.5% Price: $14 out a tropical fruit character. Rich and perfumed, this GRAVES has a great note of ginger snap on the finish. Victoire Château Briot 2011 Bordeaux Rosé. Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 85 Warm and rounded, this is a soft, ripe rosé. The Château du Seuil 2011 Graves. With its abv: NA Price: $19 flavors of plums and red berries roll easily around the 90 smooth combination of toast and yellow fruit mouth, producing a wine that is full, rich and soft. Jan- notes, this goes beyond the typical herbaceous Sauvi- Château Haut Grand Champ 2011 Bor- dell Selections. —R.V. gnon Blanc character. It’s a wine wine that is full and se- 91 deaux Blanc. This is a rich wine that’s full of abv: 12.5% Price: $13 rious, deserving to be aged for at least three years. APS apricot, melon and pear flavors. It has weight, ripe & Spirits. —R.V. and a good touch of minerality, with a clean and crisp Château Beauregard-Ducourt 2011 Bor- abv: 12% Price: $25 finish. Age this for a year or two. Victoire Imports. Best 84 deaux Rosé. Bright and fresh, with a red fruit Buy. —R.V. flavor and a touch of caramel, this is dry, fragrant and Château du Seuil 2010 Graves. This is a abv: NA Price: $13 very fruity, leaving a fine swathe of acidity on the finish. 90 ripe, wood-aged wine, with its smooth texture Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V. softening the natural herbaceous exuberance of young Château Turcaud 2011 Cuvée Majeure abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Sauvignon and Sémillon. Juicy and laced with citrus 91 (Bordeaux Blanc). At this stage, strong wood- and gooseberry notes, it also has a touch of toast that influenced flavors dominate the fruit of this smooth-tex- adds good richness and gravity. Age for 3–4 years for tured wine. It has the weight to stand up to the wood, so WHITE BORDEAUX maximum effect. APS Wine & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. expect this wine to develop into a rich, creamy, lightly —R.V. spicy wine in 2–3 years. Laville Imports. —R.V. ENTRE-DEUX-MERS abv: 12% Price: $25 abv: NA Price: $23

Château Beauregard-Ducourt 2011 En- Château Haut Selve 2011 Graves. This Château de la Vieille Tour 2010 Heritage 88 tre-Deux-Mers. This is a youthful, mineral- 89 fruity, wood-aged wine has plenty of poten- 90 (Bordeaux Blanc). A fresh yet spicy wine, this driven Sauvignon Blanc, with gooseberry and herb tial. Its stone fruit flavors are full and rich, a contrast is rich and toasty, showing a strongly zingy texture. With notes. The texture is still young and tight, and it needs to the herbaceous edge. A smooth texture is just show- its notes of citrus, spiced apricot and its fresh acidity, a few more months to open generously, yet it’s already

WineMag.com | 27 this could age for several more months. Dendor Wine Château Haut Guillebot 2011 Cuvée Château Larroque 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. Management. —R.V. 89 Prestige (Bordeaux Blanc). This ripe 88 Rich and round, this wine shows the natural abv: NA Price: $30 wine is full of tropical and citrus fruits, with some ex- herbaceous character of the Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon tra weight from the hint of wood. Fine and balanced, it blend. Tamed by a warm, fat, generous feel, this has the Château des Gravières 2011 Bordeaux reveals the smooth richness of 100% Sémillon. Saranty density and structure to make it a great match for food. 90 Blanc. Rich and fruity, this has fine red-cur- Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V. rant and quince fruit. It’s full in the mouth, concentrat- abv: NA Price: $10 abv: 12% Price: $13 ed, perfumed and mineral driven. Worth aging a few months. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Château Hoste-Blanc 2011 Vieilles Vi- Château Lynch-Bages 2011 Blanc de Best Buy. —R.V. 89 gnes (Bordeaux Blanc). This is a full-bod- 88 Lynch Bages (Bordeaux Blanc). Catty and abv: NA Price: $15 ied wine with a rich texture. It has a creamy character, herbaceous, this wine is as crisp and fresh as can be. along with flavors of almond, toast and ripe green plum. Bright and lively, it is close to resembling the New Zea- Château Fombrauge 2006 Blanc (Bor- Worth aging a year. Zachy’s. —R.V. land style. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. 90 deaux Blanc). A rare from Saint- abv: NA Price: $25 abv: NA Price: $41 Émilion vineyards, this is seriously wood-aged, showing mature toast and almond flavors, with a citrusy edge. It Château Lauduc 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. Château Penin 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. has weight and richness, gradually revealing peach and 89 With a rich mouthfeel, this is creamy, textured, 88 Smooth and creamy, this shows touches of apricot notes while merely hinting at acidity. Bernard concentrated and full of fruit. Ripe yellow fruits are well wood aging and flavors of ripe apple and peach. The Magrez USA. —R.V. balanced with the citrus-driven character. It should age toast brings out an attractive spiciness, leaving a com- abv: 13% Price: $29 for another year. Bacchus Imports, Inc. —R.V. plex, fruity finish. Spec’s. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13 abv: NA Price: $19 Château la Freynelle 2011 Bordeaux 90 Blanc. This is attractive, ripe and perfumed, Château d’Argadens 2011 Bordeaux Château Roquefort 2011 Bordeaux with white currant and quince flavors that accompany 88 Blanc. This very herbaceous wine shows al- 88 Blanc. This full-bodied wine is richly endowed the smooth and round texture. There is a sense of toasti- mond, toast and a rich texture. The wine has a creamy with flavors of red currants and green plums, with an ness from the vinification, which provides a spicy, rich feel, ripe in the mouth while retaining grapefruit-driv- orange-zest-like texture. It’s all fruit, with a zingy feel. finish. Republic National Distributing Co. —R.V. en freshness at the end. Heidelberg Distribution. Best This would make for a great bright apéritif or food pair- abv: NA Price: $12 Buy. —R.V. ing wine. Sherry-Lehmann. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12 abv: NA Price: $15 Château Lamothe-Vincent 2011 Heritage 90 (Bordeaux Blanc). This lightly wood-aged Château de Lugagnac 2010 Bordeaux Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2011 Mou- wine’s toasty character is finely balanced with tropical 88 Blanc. Ripe, spicy tropical fruits give this wine 87 ton Cadet (Bordeaux Blanc). For full re- and citrus fruits. Full and ripe, the wine has both weight a rich feel. There is a touch of caramel along with pine- view see page 10. Best Buy. and a concentrated, rich aftertaste. Laville Imports. apple and apricot flavors. It is full bodied and struc- abv: NA Price: $10 Best Buy. —R.V. tured, with a finish that shows acidity and a streak of abv: NA Price: $15 nutmeg. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. Château Ballan-Larquette 2011 Bordeaux —R.V. 87 Blanc. Richly herbaceous, this wine balances Château Lestrille Capmartin 2011 Bor- abv: NA Price: $13 crisp fruit flavors with a creamy texture. Rounded, it 90 deaux Blanc. Kissed generously by spicy shows ripe fruits as well as tight acidity. Age it for a few wood, this is a smooth, ripe wine. It has some concen- Château Fayau 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. At- months. Exclusive Imports. —R.V. trated apricot and peppered pear flavors, along with a 88 tractively fresh and herbaceous, this is a bright abv: NA Price: $15 rich, toasty finish. Age 2–3 years. Charles Neal Selec- and fruity wine. It has flavors of red currant and grape- tions. Best Buy. —R.V. fruit, plus a hint of gooseberry. Full and crisp, it’s a wine Château Bel Air Perponcher 2011 Bor- abv: NA Price: $15 to drink soon. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. 87 deaux Blanc. Soft and rich, this is a fruity and abv: NA Price: $NA textured wine. It has strong pear and spice flavors that Château Tour de Mirambeau 2010 Cu- complement the edge of lemon zest. This combina- 90 vée Passion (Bordeaux Blanc). Textured Château Haut Mondain 2011 Bordeaux tion results in a wine that is bright and fruity. Screwcap. yet full bodied, this is a rich wine from a small 17-acre 88 Blanc. Strong lime and lemon zest flavors Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. estate. The toast note shows strongly, but it’s still in bal- dominate this attractive, zingy wine. It has a strong tex- abv: NA Price: $15 ance, resulting in yeast and croissant flavors as well as ture that brings out the acidity and citrus flavors. It re- tropical fruits. For aging over the next 2–3 years. Fruit mains bright and crisp on the finish. The House Of Bur- Château de Bonhoste 2011 Bordeaux of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. gundy. Best Buy. —R.V. 87 Blanc. Tight, crisp and mineral driven, this abv: NA Price: $30 abv: NA Price: $12 wine has citrus fruits and a steely texture, demonstrat- ing that it needs to age for a year. T. Edward Wines Ltd. Cheval Quancard 2011 Réserve (Bor- Château Lamothe de Haux 2011 Bor- —R.V. 90 deaux Blanc). With a tropical fruit aroma of 88 deaux Blanc. Round and rich, this is packed abv: NA Price: $15 pineapple juice and a touch of spice, this is an attractive, with pear and apricot flavors, producing a full-bodied fragrant wine. It has good balancing acidity to accom- character. It has weight and a citrusy edge of acidity, Château La Maroutine 2011 Bordeaux pany the fruitiness, making for an ultimately lively and with a soft, ripe finish. Bayfield Importing Ltd. —R.V. 87 Blanc. This round wine features flavors of trop- crisp effort. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $17 ical fruit and apricot, combined with a mineral-driven abv: NA Price: $15 texture. It is rich yet it retains a good touch of bright- Château Lamothe-Vincent 2011 Intense ness. Ready to drink, but worth aging for a few months. Jean-Michel Cazes 2011 Michel Lynch 88 (Bordeaux Blanc). This finely balanced wine Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. 90 (Bordeaux Blanc). For full review see page has richness and a crisp citrusy character. It has a fine abv: NA Price: $11 9. Best Buy. bite of lemon zest, plus concentrated herbaceousness. abv: 12.5% Price: $11 Screwcap. Laville Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. Château La Rose du Pin 2011 Bordeaux abv: NA Price: $13 87 Blanc. This attractive, ripe, yellow- and white- fruited wine achieves a fine balance between acidity and

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 full herbaceous-fruit flavors. It has a crisp texture and a well as a ripe apple character. Fresh and fruity. Screw- that shows apple and citrus flavors. It’s ready to drink touch of minerality. The finish is bright and lively. Plan- cap. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. now. Jandell Selections. —R.V. et Wine. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12 abv: 12% Price: $13 abv: 12% Price: $13 Baron la Rose 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. This Château de Bel 2011 Aux Plantes (Bor- Château Lamothe-Vincent 2011 Bor- 85 fruity wine is produced by négociant Solvex 84 deaux Blanc). This soft, gentle, lightly juicy 87 deaux Blanc. This mineral-driven and white- Woltner. It has a fine herbaceous touch that accompa- wine has a red currant flavor. It’s perfumed and full on currant-flavored wine shows as much texture as fruiti- nies a creamy pear flavor and bright, tangy acidity. The the palate, but it’s missing great definition. Hand Picked ness. In the future, it will show ripe yellow and pear texture is soft, finishing on a crisp note. Sovex Woltner. Selections. —R.V. notes, so age for a year. Laville Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15 —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $14 Château de Virecourt 2011 Bordeaux abv: NA Price: $11 Château de la Vieille Tour 2011 Bordeaux 84 Blanc. A very herbaceous character makes this Blanc. Château Montet 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. 85 A crisp, bright and fruity wine, this has wine seem rather thin. It’s soft and lightweight, and the a perfumed character that highlights the edgy fruit tex- lemon zest character is mildly attractive. Ready to drink. Bright crisp, and light, this is a fruity, perfumed 87 ture and attractive acidity. Ready to drink now. Wine Laville Imports. —R.V. wine, with strong touches of grapefruit and gooseberry. Traditions. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 It’s a straightforward wine—all fruit and freshness. Sa- abv: NA Price: $15 ranty Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. Château du Cros 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. abv: NA Price: $9 Château de Seguin 2011 Sauvignon de 84 This is a simple, fruity wine that’s herbaceous in Seguin (Bordeaux Blanc). For full review character. A yeasty edge produces some bitterness. Cal- Cheval Quancard 2011 Chai de Bordes 85 see page 11. Best Buy. vert Woodley Fine Wines & Spirits. —R.V. (Bordeaux Blanc). 87 Bright and crisp, this is a abv: 12.5% Price: $10 abv: NA Price: $13 fruity wine that’s full of citrus and red currant flavors. It has a fine tangy texture that brings out the freshness. Château du Taillan 2011 La Dame Château Marac 2011 Grande Tradition Ready to drink as a fine apéritif. —R.V. 85 Blanche (Bordeaux Blanc). This is a bright, 84 (Bordeaux Blanc). Clean and fruity, this wine abv: NA Price: $NA fruity, rounded wine with a soft texture. It’s full and ripe, is full of ripe pineapple and pear flavors. It is laced with with melon and green plum notes, plus a touch of bit- crisp citrusy acidity, which produces a light, forward, Dourthe 2011 La Grande Cuvée (Bor- terness on the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. fresh feel. Roche-Mère Wine Selections. —R.V. 87 deaux Blanc). Aromatic and herbaceous, this —R.V. abv: NA Price: $17 is a fresh red-currant- and citrus-flavored wine. With abv: NA Price: $20 textured acidity and a bright, crisp character, it is de- Château Thieuley 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. veloping well and it should be ready to drink in a few Chateau le Grand Verdus 2011 Bordeaux 84 This light and fruity effort has some crisp acidity months. Dourthe USA. Best Buy. —R.V. 85 Blanc. This herbaceous wine has a steely edge and simple apple and pear flavors. Drink now. Calvert abv: 12% Price: $12 to its citrus and apple flavors. Exuberant and fragrant, Woodley Fine Wines & Spirits. —R.V. this has a crisp texture that jumps out of the glass. BCI abv: NA Price: $10 Chateau Couronneau 2011 Bordeaux LLC. —R.V. 86 Blanc. This is a bright, citrus-laden wine, with abv: 12.5% Price: $14 Château de Parenchère 2011 Bordeaux a light texture that balances the tangy, nervy, minerally 83 Blanc. Soft and somewhat dilute, this wine is edge. This needs a few months to bring out the full fruit Château Recougne 2011 Bordeaux attractively crisp but does not show great character. It’s character. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. 85 Blanc. Here’s a soft, round wine with a caramel a fine apéritif wine, light and gently fruity. Stacole Fine abv: NA Price: $16 character. It feels heavy, expressing hints of apricot and Wines. —R.V. mango. Screwcap. Vintus LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $14 Château Coustaut la Grangeotte 2011 abv: NA Price: $12 Domaine des Maréchaux 2011 Bordeaux Bordeaux Blanc. This soft wine feels fat and 86 Château Tanesse 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. Blanc. misses its fruitiness. It balances a food-friendly texture 83 This is a yeasty wine, with a definite An earthy, full-bodied wine, this has ripe peach bread character that covers the perfumed fruit. The that brings out richness and weightiness. A wine that 85 and lime flavors. Sulfur unattractively makes a strong acidity hints at a bright, crisp underlay. Unbalanced. shows the sun. Victoire Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. appearance; as the wine was just bottled, this feature Aviva Vino. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $10 may disappear in a few months. Serge Doré Selections. abv: NA Price: $17 —R.V. Château la Verrière 2011 Bordeaux abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Château Belle Garde 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. A rich and ripe wine, this is full of herb 86 Blanc. This yeasty wine has a flat character that and gooseberry flavors. The feel is cool, crisp, lightly 82 Despagne 2011 Eclat (Bordeaux Blanc). misses out on fruitiness. Clean, but dull. —R.V. perfumed and bright. —R.V. 85 In this lightly fruity wine, apples and citrus fla- abv: NA Price: $13 abv: NA Price: $NA vors come with a bright, crisp character. Ready to drink. Screwcap. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. Château Fonchereau 2010 Bordeaux Château Timberlay 2011 Bordeaux abv: NA Price: $10 82 Blanc. A bitter yeast flavor doesn’t do this 86 Blanc. This attractive, crisp wine is full of ap- 100% Sémillon wine any favors. It is heavy and fat, ple and lime flavors and laced with a soft pear character. Barton & Guestier 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. and the citrus fruits are lost along the way. Aviva Vino. It’s very fruity and bright, showing some minerality in 84 Dominated by notes of tropical fruits and apri- —R.V. its texture. Clean and crisp on the finish. Terlato Wines cots rather than herb flavors, this is a soft and round abv: NA Price: $20 International. —R.V. wine. It is full on the palate and is ready to drink now. abv: NA Price: $20 Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. Yvon Mau 2011 Yvecourt (Bordeaux abv: 12% Price: $10 82 Blanc). This tastes herbal and light on fruit, Schröder & Schyler 2011 Bordeaux textured with tight mineral qualities. Acidity comes 86 Blanc. Lightly herbaceous aromas lead to an Château Briot 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. This through on the finish. Victoire Imports. —R.V. attractive, creamy wine. It has grapefruit-like acidity as 84 is a soft, rather unfocused, open-textured wine abv: NA Price: $10

WineMag.com | 29 Maison Sichel 2010 Sirius (Bordeaux promise a great future for this wine. Cellar Selection. Château Sigalas Rabaud 2009 Sau- 81 Blanc). An unattractive green-herb aroma is —R.V. 93 ternes. This wine is still very closed. That said, followed by a green-pepper- and dill-flavored palate. abv: NA Price: $NA its promise is in the rich, weighty texture. It shows a ripe Heidelberg Distribution. —R.V. feel, with orange and lemon freshness. On the finish, abv: NA Price: $12 Château Rieussec 2009 Sauternes. This the acidity is dominant. —R.V. 95 closed, reticent wine promises to pack a rich, abv: NA Price: $NA generous punch in the future. Its potential shows in the BARSAC botrytis flavor and the touches of smoky wood and apri- Château Filhot 2009 Sauternes. This ripe cot jelly. With this leashed power, it promises to be a wine’s delicious sweetness comes from the deli- Château Climens 2009 Barsac. The superb 92 very fine wine. Cellar Selection. —R.V. cious honey, ripe apricot and mango flavors. Delicate palate boasts richness, with honey and orange 96 abv: NA Price: $NA acidity is balanced against these notes, giving the palate zest notes. It shows fine balance between the flavors of a citrusy edge. —R.V. orange jelly and the intense botrytis-driven notes. It has Château Clos Haut Peyraguey 2009 Sau- abv: NA Price: $NA a light, delicate texture and acidity. Cellar Selection. ternes) This is packed with botrytis, express- —R.V. 94 ing richness rather than pure sweetness. With its cit- Château Lamothe 2009 Sauternes. This abv: NA Price: $NA rus and apricot flavors, this is a complex wine, with the 91 features a light touch of acidity and a lemon structure lending the palate weight. —R.V. note. It is still developing, with a ripe background of yel- Château Coutet 2009 Barsac. Dense abv: NA Price: $NA low fruit and orange jelly still to show. The finish shows and rich, this wine has concentrated flavors of 94 the delicate side of the wine. —R.V. botrytis and floral honey. The wine gives the impression Château de Malle 2009 Sauternes. Su- abv: NA Price: $NA of sweetness, with balancing acidity and a core of dry- perbly ripe, this wine shows upfront botrytis ness. Weighty and dense, it’s likely to age. Cellar Selec- 94 and honey flavors. At its core, it bears opulence, with Bernard Magrez 2010 Château La- tion. —R.V. depth and concentration. The open character of the trezotte La Sauternes de Ma Fille (Sau- abv: NA Price: $NA 90 wine is shot through with lemon and orange zest fla- ternes). Ripe and luscious, this is made almost entirely vors. —R.V. from Sémillon. Its rich texture is packed with flavors of Château Nairac 2009 Barsac. In this con- abv: NA Price: $NA honeyed apricots and sultanas. A hint of toast is fully centrated wine, an opulent botrytis character 94 absorbed into this intensely sweet wine, and the final dominates. Notes of yellow and citrus fruits combine Château de Rayne Vigneau 2009 Sau- citrusy edge adds a fine, contrasting point. Bernard with a lemon-flavored honey accent to produce a wine ternes. A lemon zest flavor cuts through this Magrez USA. —R.V. that has both richness and intense acidity. It needs to 94 delicate wine. It has lively sweetness and flavors of lem- abv: 13.5% Price: $45 age. Cellar Selection. —R.V. on curd and bitter orange that lace the note of honey. abv: NA Price: $NA There is much more concentration to come in the fu- Barton & Guestier 2010 Sauternes. Yel- ture. —R.V. low fruit and honey aromas give this wine a fine, Château de Myrat 2009 Barsac. Here’s a 87 abv: NA Price: $NA perfumed start. The palate is sweet, with an edge of rich wine that is developing slowly and surely. 92 boytrytis. Fragrant honey and peach flavors come with a It holds back on the botrytis character, with a bitter or- Château Guiraud 2009 Sauternes. This is line of acidity. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. ange note that gives a dry edge to the wine’s sweetness. a smoky, rich wine that shows evident wood ag- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 The finish shows acidity and a taut line of citrus. —R.V. 94 ing. This feature adds weight, though the sweetness is abv: NA Price: $NA currently muted. It is a wine with potential intensity; Château Gravas 2010 Sauternes. This is the fruit and acidity will emerge in several years. Cellar an attractive, relatively light Sauternes. It has a Château Doisy-Daëne 2009 Barsac. A 87 Selection. —R.V. fine botrytis character that’s already well integrated with fresh and aromatic bouquet sets off this light, 91 abv: NA Price: $NA the orange peel and honey flavors. Not for aging; ready dancing style of wine. It has acidity and a lemon curd to drink. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. flavor, proving to be sweet and citrusy at the same time. Château Lafaurie Peyraguey 2009 Sau- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA It’s developing well. —R.V. ternes. This powerful, rich wine is densely abv: NA Price: $NA 94 packed with sweetness and citrus flavors. Honey and lemon notes combine with a dry core of botrytis, of- RHÔNE Château Suau 2009 Barsac. This is going to fering intensity and a complex sweet-and-sour finish. be a dense wine. It has a delicious touch, with 90 —R.V. a lemon-driven mouthfeel. It shows a fine balance of CROZES-HERMITAGE abv: NA Price: $NA sweetness and freshness. —R.V. BLANC abv: NA Price: $NA Château Lamothe Guignard 2009 Sau- Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2010 Domaine Mule 94 ternes. Gold in color, this is a wine with notes 92 Blanche (Crozes-Hermitage). This blend SAUTERNES of spice, rich fruit and honey, which are all surrounded of Marsanne and Roussanne comes across as something by intense botrytis. This is a wine that has great aging of a hybrid between Hermitage and Burgundy. It has Château Suduiraut 2009 Sauternes. The potential, and its superripeness develops slowly on the grilled peach, citrus and smoke notes, ample weight and 96 new-wood smokiness is an important element of palate. —R.V. a long, hazelnut-tinged finish. Drink it over the next this creamy-textured wine. The richness bares flavors of abv: NA Price: $NA 6–8 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Editors’ honey, botrytis, almond and orange peel. Ripe and age Choice. —J.C. worthy, this wine’s opulence is just beginning to show. Château Doisy Védrines 2009 Sauternes. abv: 13% Price: $42 Cellar Selection. —R.V. 93 Quite closed up, this wine has weight and inten- abv: NA Price: $NA sity that will give concentration to the potentially ripe Cave de Tain 2010 Les Hauts d’Eole flavors of apricots, mandarin oranges and a twist of lem- (Crozes-Hermitage). An old-vine blend of Château la Tour Blanche 2009 Sauternes. 91 on zest. All of these flavors are integrated with the de- Marsanne and Roussanne vinified in oak, this is full 95 This is rich, exuding delicious sweetness, with veloping honeyed richness. —R.V. bodied and powerful, with ample smoke and toast notes a core of dense botrytis. An opulent, ripe apricot fla- abv: NA Price: $NA framing a subtle melon tone, underscored by a hint of vor accompanies the bittersweet orange and mirabelle crushed stone. Delicious now, but it would also be inter- fruit notes. The acidity, sweetness and concentration

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 esting to taste in 3–4 years. Cognac One, LLC. Editors’ Delas Frères 2010 Saint-Esprit (Côtes be even better in 2016 and beyond. Robert Kacher Se- Choice. —J.C. 88 du Rhône). Winemaker Jacques Grange pro- lections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 duces relatively small quantities of this blend of 70% abv: 14% Price: $60 Grenache and 10% each of Bourboulenc, Clairette and Les Vins de Vienne 2010 Crozes-Hermit- Viognier. It’s moderately weighty, but also refreshing, Domaine du Pegau 2009 Cuvée Réservée 90 age. This is not a particularly flavorful or aro- with bright notes of pineapple, star anise and balsam fir. 94 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Prices for this es- matic wine, but it succeeds nonetheless because of its Drink it over the next six months. Maisons Marques & tate’s wines have skyrocketed, but there is no doubting creamy texture and admirable weight on the palate. It Domaines USA. Best Buy. —J.C. the quality in the bottle. The 2009 Cuvée Réservée is does deliver nuanced and restrained notes of melon, cit- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 a huge wine, overflowing with intense black cherry and rus, fennel and crushed stone, all of which mingle easily plum flavors to the point of seeming a bit sweet. Yet it’s Domaine de la Berthète 2010 Sensation on the long, mouthwatering finish. Best now and over all framed by strong yet softly dusty tannins that should the next few years. Multiple U.S. importers. —J.C. (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Made with 80% 87 see it age well for at least 15 years. Hand Picked Selec- abv: 13% Price: $27 Grenache Blanc, this is a wine intended for early drink- tions. Cellar Selection. —J.C. ing. It’s already beginning to show some evolution to- abv: 14% Price: $111 M. Chapoutier 2010 Les Meysonniers ward increased breadth on the palate and almondy nut- Marsanne (Crozes-Hermitage). Full bod- tiness but retains enough honeydew and citrus inten- 90 Clos de L’Oratoire des Papes 2009 ied, flamboyant and opulent, this is a ripe, exotic ren- sity to remain very enjoyable over the next few months. Châteauneuf-­du-Pape. The Ogier firm, dering of 100% Marsanne. Honey, apricot and manda- Bourgeois Family Selections. —J.C. 93 which controls this property, has made great strides re- rin orange notes ease slowly over the palate, finishing abv: 13.5% Price: $14 with a lush richness that suggests drinking over the near cently. This is full bodied and silky in texture without term. Terlato Wines International. —J.C. being overly soft, and it boasts complex, well-integrat- abv: 12.5% Price: $36 ROSÉS ed, interleaving notes of dark fruit, mocha, spice and earth. Drink 2015–2025. Classic Wines Of California. Château Guiot 2011 Rosé (Costières de Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Cave de Tain 2010 Crozes-Hermitage. Nîmes). This deep-colored blend of Grenache 88 abv: 14.5% Price: $28/375 ml 88 This offering, from the fine cave cooperative and Syrah seems more like a light red than a true rosé. in Tain l’Hermitage, is 100% Marsanne. Subtle smoke Cherry and crushed stone notes dominate, and there’s a Domaine Font de Michelle 2009 and peach elements mark the nose, while the palate is welcome hint of texture on the palate that would work Châteauneuf-­du-Pape. This starts off attrac- medium-full in body and displays restrained apricot and well with burgers or steak. Drink up. Robert Kacher Se- 93 wet stone notes. Drink now. Cognac One, LLC. —J.C. lections. Best Buy. —J.C. tively, with a lifted raspberry aroma and just a tiny touch abv: 13% Price: $19 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 of mint. The red fruit presence expands on the palate, hitting notes of cherry and raspberry and adding hints of M. Chapoutier 2010 Petite Ruche (Crozes- Mas Carlot 2011 Tradition Rosé spices, like cinnamon and clove. It’s full bodied yet sup- 86 Hermitage). Chapoutier’s main cuvée of white 88 (Costières de Nîmes). Bold flamingo-pink in ple, with a long, dusty-textured finish that bodes well Crozes is a pleasant, medium-bodied wine, built around color, this fruit-driven rosé is a blend of 60% Grenache for aging over the next decade or two. Robert Kacher a core of melon and pear flavors. An herbal note remi- and 40% Syrah. Berry and cherry flavors mingle easily, Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. niscent of fennel makes an appearance before the wine while the wine carries enough weight to pair with sim- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 thins out a bit on the finish. Terlato Wines International. ple grilled foods like chicken or hamburgers. Drink up. —J.C. Robert Kacher Selections. Best Buy. —J.C. Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 Domaine de abv: 13% Price: $27 abv: 13.5% Price: $11 93 Terre Ferme (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Jaboulet has been investing heavily in recent years, OTHER WHITE WINES Mas des Bressades 2011 Cuvée Tradition and the terrific 2009 Terre Ferme is one of the pay- 87 Rosé (Costières de Nîmes). This medium-­ offs. It’s meaty and plummy on the nose, with an ex- Pierre Henri Morel 2010 Laudun Blanc bodied, silky-textured rosé features modestly confected pansive, plush mouthfeel. Plum and black cherry flavors aromas of bubble gum and cotton candy, which give way 91 (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Pierre Henri work well with the leather and cedar notes, while the on the palate to vinous notes of cherry and wet stone. Morel is Chapoutier’s general manager, but he also has finish lingers, picking up hints of cinnamon and licorice. his own line of wines that can often represent excellent Drink up. Robert Kacher Selections. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Drink 2015–2025. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. value. This blend of Grenache, Clairette and Bourbou- Cellar Selection. —J.C. lenc is full bodied and rich, toasty and smoky with oak Domaine de la Petite Cassagne 2011 abv: 15% Price: $100 influence and well endowed with peach and pineapple Rosé (Costières de Nîmes). This fits the fruit. Drink it over the next year. Massanois Imports. 86 stereotype of pale rosé precisely, with a certain lean Tardieu-Laurent 2009 Châteauneuf-du- Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Pape. T-L has three cuvées of Châteauneuf, abv: 14% Price: $20 quality to the palate, citrusy fruit and a crisp, clean fin- 93 ish. Drink up. Robert Kacher Selections. Best Buy. and while this is the least expensive, it’s also the most enjoyable now. A hint of sweaty horse blanket may put Château du Trignon 2010 Roussanne —J.C. off some tasters, but this full-bodied, lushly textured (Côtes du Rhône). It’s unusual to find 100% abv: 13% Price: $10 90 wine features ample raspberry and cherry flavors, copi- Roussanne wines, but this is a terrific example at a real- istic price. It’s broad and mouth-coating but still seems CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE ous spices and a long, softly dusty finish. Drink it over fresh, with melon, pear and pineapple flavors that linger the next 5–8 years. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C. on the tightly focused finish. Drink over the next year André Brunel 2009 Les Cailloux abv: 14.5% Price: $56 or two. David Milligan Selections. Editors’ Choice. 95 (Châteauneuf-­du-Pape). The 2009 Les —J.C. Cailloux­ is a classically built Châteauneuf that should Domaine de Nalys 2009 Le Châtaignier abv: 13.5% Price: $18 age well through at least 2025. The blend of 65% 92 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Le Châtaignier is Grenache­, 20% Mourvèdre, 12% Syrah and 3% a luxury cuvée of the domaine’s oldest vines, approxi- Philippe Borlais 2010 Tête du Rhône Cinsault­ starts off with lovely notes of wild thyme and mately 96% Grenache and 4% Mourvèdre. Bright red 89 (Côtes du Rhône). For full review see page dark fruit, then adds herbal complexity and chocolaty fruit flavors of raspberry and cherry are complement- 9. Best Buy. richness. It’s full bodied yet firm, with some dusty but ed by coffee and chocolate notes (the wine spends four abv: 13.5% Price: $14 elegant tannins on the finish. It’s excellent now, but will months in oak). For a 2009, it’s crisp and on the firm

WineMag.com | 31 side, so give it until next year, and then drink it through Les Vignes d’Alexandre 2009 this 100% Grenache bottling boasts hints of raisined 2025. Frank-Lin International. —J.C. 91 Châteauneuf-­du-Pape. A decent value in fruit and chocolaty richness but also notes of beetroot abv: 15% Price: $68 the upward-spiraling world of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and alfalfa. This is full bodied, loaded with chewy tan- this 2009 offers pungent scents of tobacco and damp nins that turn drying and astringent on the finish. Its Domaine du Pegau 2008 Cuvée Laurence earth, then dark, meaty notes and dried fruit flavors. It’s future evolution seems uncertain. Wilson Daniels Ltd. 92 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Boasting notes of creamy in texture and full bodied, with a softly tannic —J.C. dried flowers and herbs in its bouquet, this is a silky, finish. Drink now–2020. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $72 elegant rendition of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. There’s a abv: 15% Price: $45 sense of wet-stone minerality, along with notes of dried Skalli 2008 La Tiare du Pape black fruit and dark chocolate. Licorice comes through Clos Saint Michel 2009 Châteauneuf- 88 (Châteauneuf-­du-Pape). Leather and ce- on the lengthy finish. Hand Picked Selections. —J.C. 90 du-Pape. This is a solid example of entry-lev- dar aromas frame dried fruit and vanilla shadings in abv: 14.5% Price: $113 el Châteauneuf-du-Pape. A cherry note is accented by this full-bodied yet supple wine. The vanilla, cedar and hints of garrigue and chocolate, and the wine is rich- cherry flavors don’t particularly speak to the wine’s ori- Domaine la Mereuille 2009 Les Baptau- ly textured, ripe and full bodied. Drink this blend of gins but still make for an easy-drinking mouthful. Drink 92 rels (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). An oak-aged 40% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 30% Mourvèdre over it over the next few years. Skalli Family Wines. —J.C. cuvée, this wine nevertheless exhibits tremendous fruit. the next several years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spir- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 An aroma of brandied black cherry leads the way along its. —J.C. with hints of cinnamon and menthol, picking up notes abv: 14.5% Price: $40 of vanilla and cedar on the palate. This big wine boasts SOUTHERN ITALY a velvety texture and plenty of finesse, although the ce- E. Guigal 2006 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Be- dary note stands a little apart on the finish. Give it an- 90 cause of Guigal’s practice of extended élevage GRECO DI TUFO other 2–3 years of cellaring. Good Company Wines. prior to bottling, the wines are often ready to drink —J.C. when released. That’s certainly the case with this bal- Donnachiara 2011 Greco di Tufo. This abv: 15% Price: $96 anced, supple Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It’s meaty and 88 beautiful Greco opens with clean and polished chocolaty, with a silky texture and lingering finish. Drink aromas of citrus, pear, peach and talc powder. It shows Louis Bernard 2009 Domaine La Crau now–2018. Vintus LLC. —J.C. impressive structure and length in the mouth. Michel- 92 des Papes (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). abv: 14% Price: $50 angelo Selections. —M.L. Lush and mouth-filling, this is a plummy rendering of abv: 13% Price: $18 Châteauneuf-­du-Pape that’s ready to drink. Hints of Famille Quiot 2008 Les Combes d’Arneval green peppercorn and mocha add nuance, while the 90 Lieu-Dit Arnavès (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Greco di finish is long and voluptuous. Boisset Family Estates. This is ready-to-drink Châteauneuf. A charming rasp- 88 Tufo. For full review see page 9. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. berry flavor mixes easily with a dried herb note, while abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 15% Price: $44 the tannins are supple and the texture is creamy. Drink Vinosia 2011 L’Ariella Greco di Tufo. it over the next 5–6 years. David Milligan Selections. This Tardieu-Laurent 2009 Vieilles Vignes Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 87 is a bright Greco, with subdued aromas of stone 92 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This is a rugged, abv: 14.5% Price: $35 fruit, melon and honey. It shows very nice richness and firmly tannic rendering of Châteauneuf-du-Pape that consistency overall. Domaine Select Wine Estates. requires time in the cellar to reach its full potential. Sélection Laurence Féraud 2009 —M.L. That said, it may also pose a risk, because there are hints 90 Châteauneuf-­du-Pape. In addition to being abv: 13.5% Price: $19 of Band-Aid on the nose and a slightly metallic edge to the owner of Domaine de Pégaü, Féraud has a small but the finish that may worsen over time. The other flavors successful négociant business. This offering, which ap- are potent and concentrated: plum, chocolate and lico- pears to come from the Versino estate (Bois de Boursan­) FIANO DI AVELLINO rice all leave lasting impressions on the palate. Try af- is limited to only 500 bottles, bursting with cranberry Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Fiano di ter 2016. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —J.C. and pomegranate flavors and aromatic Christmas spic- 89 Avellino. For full review see page 8. abv: 14.5% Price: $77 es. It’s silky in texture, with just a touch of sweaty leather abv: 13% Price: $20 on the finish. Hand Picked Selections. —J.C. Vignerons de Caractère 2009 Roque Co- abv: 14% Price: $69 Vesevo 2011 Fiano di Avellino. This zesty, 92 lombe (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). From the 87 almost spicy white wine opens with citrus, hon- cave cooperative located in nearby Vacqueyras, this is Domaine la Mereuille 2007 Châteauneuf- ey and crushed white-pepper notes on the bouquet. a full-bodied, plushly textured wine that manages to 89 du-Pape. Full bodied and silky, like so many There’s a very subtle, almost invisible touch of sweet- avoid being too soft. Black cherry and garrigue notes of the 2007s from the Southern Rhône, this has already ness that renders the finish slightly round. Vin Divino. are joined by hints of licorice and mocha on the long, reached maturity. Notes of dried cherry, cinnamon, —M.L. layered finish. Drink now–2020. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. clove and chocolate all come together in a very drink- abv: 13% Price: $25 Editors’ Choice. —J.C. able package. Good Company Wines. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $41 abv: 15% Price: $57 Villa Raiano 2011 Fiano di Avellino. This 86 shows a dry and dusty personality, with subdued Domaine Font de Michelle 2009 Cuvée Louis Bernard 2009 Châteauneuf-du- fruit tones of pear and Golden Delicious. In the mouth, 91 Etienne Gonnet (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). 89 Pape. Remember when all Châteauneufs were the wine holds its own thanks to its naturally creamy This is the estate’s top cuvée, made primarily from cen- priced like this? Now this is entry-level pricing, yet the consistency. Bacchanal Wines. —M.L. tury-old Grenache vines. It’s definitely concentrated, wine is very good, delivering a complex, harmonious abv: 13.5% Price: $24 boasting punched-up levels of red plum and cherry. It’s blend of leather, earth, spice and plum notes. It’s soft brash and intense, with peppery, herbal notes above and enough to drink now and over the next few years. Bois- leathery notes below that add complexity. Give it at least set Family Estates. —J.C. BENEVENTANO abv: 14.5% Price: $38 five years in the cellar. Robert Kacher Selections. Cel- Donnachiara 2011 Falanghina (Beneven- lar Selection. —J.C. tano). Citrus, honey and cantaloupe notes abv: 14.5% Price: $80 Tardieu-Laurent 2009 Cuvée Spéciale 87 open the bouquet of this food-friendly white wine. The 89 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Superripe in style,

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 mouthfeel shows acidity without being sharp or sour. a pleasant degree of softness on the palate. Rubia Di Miali 2011 Fírr Fiano (Puglia). This Fiano Michelangelo Selections. —M.L. Bra Llc. —M.L. 82 is strangely redolent of pine cone. Fruit tones abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 12% Price: $13 of citrus and apricot are found in the wine, but they are slightly buried. Rubia Di Bra Llc. —M.L. Villa Raiano 2011 Falanghina del abv: 13% Price: $17 87 Beneventano. A fragrant Falanghina, this OTHER WHITE WINES opens with a bright flower aroma, followed by honey Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 Campanaro and peach notes. There are touches of citrus and spice SPARKLING WINE (Irpinia). on the finish. Bacchanal Wines. —M.L. 92 For full review see page 5. Editors’ abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Choice. Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 DUBL Agli- abv: 13% Price: $33 90 anico (Campania). For full review see page Vinosia 2011 Falanghina (Beneventano). 8. 87 This pretty wine opens with fresh aromas of Terre del Principe 2010 Le Sèrole Palla- abv: 13.5% Price: $43 melon, stone fruit and fragrant honeysuckle. This ex- 90 grello (Terre del Volturno). Le Sèrole seems pression offers more richness and intensity than many intent on showing the aging potential of the little-known of the Falanghinas available today. Domaine Select Pallagrello Bianco variety. This opens with an off-gold ROSÉS Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. color and bright aromas of candied fruit, honey and Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Ros’Aura abv: 13% Price: $14 dried apricot. The natural structure will help it last a 89 (Irpinia). For full review see page 8. Editors’ few years longer. Vias Imports. —M.L. Choice. Vesevo 2011 Falanghina (Beneventa- abv: 13.5% Price: $43 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 86 no). This has a bright and informal quality that would make this fresh white wine a perfect partner for Terre del Principe 2011 Fontanavigna Pal- Mastroberardino 2011 Lacrimarosa Agli- light seafood. Easy, informal and beautifully crisp. Vin 88 lagrello (Terre del Volturno). The white va- 89 anico (Campania). This gorgeous rosato Divino. —M.L. riety of Pallagrello is a rare native grape, which is found shows a bright pink color, offering fresh aromas of gar- abv: 13% Price: $16 in only a handful of spots in southern Italy. This wine den flower, citrus and stone fruit. It shows lively acidity, shows very nice structure and creaminess, with a touch with a distant tannic touch that’s barely noticeable on SANNIO of fresh acidity on the finish. Vias Imports. —M.L. the palate. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $31 abv: 13% Price: $25 Capolino Perlingieri 2011 Nembo Fia- 88 no (Sannio). This lovely expression of Fiano Cantina di Venosa 2011 Terre di Orazio Cantine del Notaio 2010 Il Rogito (Ba- would match well with grilled ahi tuna or sushi. It shows 87 Dry Muscat (Basilicata). This dry expres- 87 silicata). This Aglianico-based rosato opens impressive depth, with loads of pear, citrus and Golden sion of Moscato from southern Italy opens with fragrant with a dark raspberry color, followed by aromas of for- Delicious. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. tones of white flower, peach and honey. It shows some est berry, chopped mint, candied fruit and pink grape- abv: 13.5% Price: $24 roundness on the palate, capped by fresh acidity. Sober fruit. Smooth and velvety on the finish. Michael Skurnik LLC. —M.L. Wines. —M.L. Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Falanghina abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 87 (Sannio). For full review see page 9. abv: 13% Price: $16 Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 White (Lac- Villa Matilde 2011 Rocca dei Leoni Terre ryma Christi del Vesuvio). Bright and citrus- Cerase (Campania). Bright and crisp, this Capolino Perlingieri 2011 Preta Falanghi- 86 87 driven, this no-fuss wine would pair with grilled shrimp Aglianico-based rosato shows the soft, feminine side of na (Sannio). This is a lean, compact expres- 86 or freshwater fish. The wine is zesty and fresh overall. this hearty red grape. Notes of wild berry and raspberry sion of Falanghina, opening with bright citrus, pear and Palm Bay International. —M.L. are followed by touches of almond skin and pink grape- kiwi aromas. It delivers fresh acidity and a bright, easy- abv: 13% Price: $16 fruit. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. going personality. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $19 Bisceglia 2011 Terra di Vulcano Dry Mus- 85 cat (Basilicata). This dry white wine opens Villa Mottura 2011 Le Pitre Rosato SALENTO with aromas of acacia flower, honey and stone fruit. The 86 (Salento). An easy-drinking rosato, this has lack of sweetness holds back some of the aromatic in- dusty aromas of dried rose petal, stone fruit and citrus. Tenute Rubino 2010 Giancòla Malva- tensity, and the wine is easy, fresh and zesty on the fin- The mouthfeel is clean, lean and crisp. Siena Imports. sia Bianca (Salento). Vintner Luigi Rubino 90 ish. Pair it with fried cocktail shrimp. Winebow. —M.L. —M.L. has crafted a spectacular Malvasia Bianca that bears abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $29 rich and tangy aromas of peach and citrus, followed by silky smoothness and creamy, exotic fruit. Panebianco. Luccarelli 2011 Ampelo Verdeca (Pug- Vigneti del Vulture 2011 Pipoli Rosato —M.L. lia). Informal and light, this fresh wine made 85 (Basilicata). There are sweet-tasting notes of abv: 13.5% Price: $18 85 from the Verdeca grape opens with easy aromas of cit- wild berry and raspberry at the front of this wine, fol- lowed by fresh touches of white flower and lemon blos- Matané 2011 White (Salento). rus, honey and peach. It shows a bitter almond flavor in A perfect som. Those feminine aromas are enhanced by an im- wine to pair with salad, grilled tuna or chicken the mouth. Gran Sasso USA. —M.L. 85 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 pression of soft sweetness. World Wide Cellars. —M.L. salad, this is fresh and crisp, with bright tones of green abv: 13% Price: $12 melon and apple. The finish is zesty and clean feeling. Miali 2011 Dolcimèlo (Martina). Vin Divino. Best Buy. —M.L. This blend abv: 12% Price: $10 85 of Verdesca, Bianco d’Alessano and Fiano Minutolo (three white grapes indigenous to southern TAURASI Miali 2011 Lunalba Chardonnay (Salen- Italy) shows a slightly oxidized style, with aromas of car- Feudi di San Gregorio 2007 Piano di 85 to). Lunalba is a slightly effervescent white amel, peach and exotic fruit. A touch of peach cobbler 94 Montevergine Riserva (Taurasi). For full wine, with just enough bubbly perkiness to awaken your appears on the finish. Rubia Di Bra Llc. —M.L. review see page 3. Cellar Selection. taste buds. It shows bright citrus and exotic fruits, with abv: 12% Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $65

WineMag.com | 33 Donnachiara 2007 Riserva (Taurasi). This Donnachiara 2008 Taurasi. What sets this Irpinia subzone of southern Italy delivers tightly etched 92 Taurasi Riserva shows the beautiful and austere 90 Taurasi apart is the finesse and elegance it tannins that are backed by soft layers of black fruit and side of Aglianico, with penetrating notes of dried fruit, shows on the finish. This hearty effort reflects many of leather. It successfully highlights the grape’s natural wet river stone, cigar box and crushed clove. It delivers the mineral characteristics inherent to volcanic soils. A characteristics. Charmer Sunbelt Group. —M.L. structure and enough persistence to pair with stewed black fruit note is followed by touches of smoke, ash, to- abv: 13% Price: $20 lamb and potatoes, and it can also be cellared for 10 bacco, supported by polished tannins. Charmer Sunbelt years or more. Michelangelo Selections. Cellar Selec- Group. —M.L. Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Rubrato Agli- tion. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 88 anico (Irpinia). For full review see page 9. abv: 13.5% Price: $60 abv: 13.5% Price: $19 Terredora 2006 Pago dei Fusi (Taurasi). Feudi di San Gregorio 2008 Taurasi. For 90 This shows unique characteristics that give it an Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 Rubrato Agli- 92 full review see page 5. elegant but powerful identity. The wine is aged for two 88 anico (Irpinia). This is nicely balanced and abv: 14% Price: $38 years in oak, lending it an extra note of spice and round easy in terms of its tannins and overall intensity, with tannins. Volcanic soils render perfumed notes of blue enough structure to pair with game meat or succulent Di Meo 2006 Riserva (Taurasi). Aglianico flower and herb, and extracted richness remains at the red meat. The bouquet is redolent of spice, black fruit 91 grapes make powerful and tightly structured red core of this opulent wine. Vias Imports. —M.L. and crushed granite. Palm Bay International. —M.L. wines, but vintner Roberto Di Meo has tamed much of abv: 13.5% Price: $46 abv: 13% Price: $19 that massiveness and has produced an elegant, polished bottling instead. This shows a long aromatic evolution, Villa Matilde 2007 Tenuta di Altavilla Vinosia 2011 Aglianico (Irpinia). Here’s a with subtle tones of blackberry, prune, leather and spice 90 (Taurasi). Driven by deeply smoky and ashy 88 bold, ripe and chewy expression of Aglianico, that evolve with more time in the glass. Il Mercante di aromas of campfire, slate and lead pencil, there’s no with loads of plump cherry and blackberry followed by Venezia. —M.L. doubting the volcanic origins of this elegant Taurasi. notes of dark spice and moist pipe tobacco. The wine abv: 14% Price: $58 The wine is etched and fine, with a smooth tannins. would pair with lamb chops or roast pork. Domaine Se- Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. lect Wine Estates. Best Buy. —M.L. Di Meo 2004 Riserva (Taurasi). You can’t abv: 13.5% Price: $59 abv: 13% Price: $13 91 go wrong with a beautifully bold and structured red wine like this. Meant for cold winter nights and Terredora 2007 Fatica Contadina (Taura- Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 Dal Re Agli- hearty meat dishes, this elegant Taurasi opens with lus- 89 si). Taurasi is a wine that flaunts a determined 87 anico (Irpinia). Instantly recognizable for the cious dark fruit, prune, spice and tobacco notes. The and powerful personality, and Fatica Contadina is no eye-catching purple dot on its label, this offers a slightly wine’s texture is fine and silky, with polished, dusty tan- exception, thanks to its deep layers of spice, dark fruit, austere expression of Aglianico that would pair with al- nins. Il Mercante di Venezia. —M.L. tobacco and cigar that it delivers to the senses. On the most any grilled meat dish. The soft mouthfeel is char- abv: 13.5% Price: $55 palate, it is austere and tightly structured. Vias Imports. acterized by notes of cherry, tobacco and spice. —M.L. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA I Capitani 2006 Bosco Faiano (Taurasi). abv: 13.5% Price: $32 91 Bosco Faiano is a hearty, masculine wine, aged I Capitani 2010 Guaglione Aglianico (Ir- 18 months in large oak casks to deliver dark notes of 87 pinia). Hearty Aglianico is blended with a dried fruit, black currant, cured meat, leather and spice. IRPINIA small percentage of to produce a tight and straightforward red wine, with sassy spice and dark fruit At first, this tastes bold and raw, but after a few minutes Di Meo 2004 Don Generoso Aglianico in the glass, it shows a nice evolution toward elegance. aromas. Pair this value wine with pizza or grilled sau- (Irpinia). As its name implies, Don Generous Wineberry America LLC. —M.L. 92 sage. Wineberry America LLC. —M.L. doles out opulence and aromatic intensity, lingering abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $13 long on the nose and palate. This is a smoky, masculine expression, with notes of lead pencil, slate, prune, cassis Terredora 2006 CampoRe Riserva (Taur- I Capitani 2007 Jumara Aglianico (Irpin- and spice. It delivers the essences of volcanic soil with asi). With all the qualities needed for long cel- ia). Jumara is a very oaky expression of Agli- 91 dry and firm tannins at the back. Il Mercante di Venezia. 87 lar time—structure, freshness and fruit integrity—this anico, with spicy background tones of cinnamon and Cellar Selection. —M.L. already shows its considerable pedigree. It delivers to- chocolate, backed by roasted nut and cigar. There are abv: 13.5% Price: $120 bacco, leather, black fruit and a touch of dried herb on dark fruit aromas here that will help this hearty wine the finish. Vias Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L. evolve over the next 1–2 years. Wineberry America I Capitani 2008 Emè (Irpinia). Emè is a abv: 14% Price: $60 LLC. —M.L. beautifully balanced blend of Aglianico, Merlot 90 abv: 13% Price: $17 and Sangiovese. Its soft, velvety texture is spectacular, Vesevo 2007 Taurasi. Here’s a unique Taur- as are its generous aromas of cherry, black fruit, spice, asi that shows the elegance and brawn of the 91 leather and tobacco. There’s a touch of sharp freshness Aglianico grape without some of its massive bulk and CAMPANIA on the finish that pulls it all together. Wineberry Amer- intensity. In fact, this is a tempered expression, with a ica LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Pàtrimo Mer- bright fruit tone and a point of apparent sweetness on abv: 14% Price: $20 93 lot (Campania). For full review see page 4. the finish. Vin Divino. —M.L. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.5% Price: $48 Cantine di Marzo 2009 Aglianico (Irpin- abv: 14% Price: $105 ia). Don’t underestimate this wine. An Agli- Villa Raiano 2008 Raiano (Taurasi). Lin- 88 anico from Irpinia, it opens with pristine notes of black Feudi di San Gregorio 2008 Sirica (Cam- ear and elegant, this bears dusty tones of gran- 91 fruit, tobacco and crushed granite. The aromas are mea- pania). Sirica is a newly discovered grape vari- ite and black fruit that accompany lingering background 92 sured in intensity, but the wine’s natural tannic back- ety that is said to have genetic ties to Teroldego, Syrah aromas of spice and tobacco. Dark and deeply extract- bone gives it importance and staying power. Vintners and Refosco Friulano. How it ended up in Campania ed, the wine lasts long on the palate, expressing dark Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. is anyone’s guess. Besides the beauty and purity of its plum and cigar flavors along the way. Bacchanal Wines. abv: 13% Price: $22 cherry aroma, this bold red wine has been carefully em- —M.L. bellished by spicy oak and chocolate tones. The finish is abv: 14% Price: $38 Donnachiara 2009 Aglianico (Irpinia). long, fresh and rich. —M.L. 88 This pretty Aglianico from the up-and-coming abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 Montevetrano 2009 Montevetrano (Cam- hind bold cherry and blackberry notes. Empson (USA) mineral shadings of slate, crushed granite and earth. 92 pania). Montevetrano is an impressive blend of Ltd. —M.L. The fruits are prune and dried berry, and the wine fea- Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Merlot and Aglianico that abv: 13% Price: $17 tures tight tannins and overall complexity. Drink now, or shows the enormous potential of red wines from south- age for five more years. Oliver McCrum Wines. —M.L. ern Italy. It will age 10 years or more, and it already Villa Raiano 2010 Aglianico (Campania). abv: 14% Price: $32 shows deeply sophisticated flavors of tobacco, dry fruit 87 This informal expression of Aglianico opens and spice. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —M.L. with zesty, slightly green aromas of curry leaf and dried Tenuta Le Querce 2005 Vigna della Co- abv: 13.5% Price: $80 herb, with subtle hints of wild berry and cassis. The fin- 91 rona (Aglianico del Vulture). Packaged in ish is strongly reminiscent of crushed white peppercorn. a massively heavy glass bottle, Vigna della Corona is Di Meo 2008 A Aglianico (Campania). Wines LLC. —M.L. an important expression of Aglianico that deftly sets 89 This wine inspires a pairing with foods that have abv: 13.5% Price: $26 a touch of oak-derived against black fruit and prune a sweet cheese or butter element. It is well shaped and notes. Savory flavors of wild mushroom, tobacco and opulent, with loads of crushed black pepper, dried fruit smoke give the wine a masculine, brawny personality. and dusty mineral nuances. Il Mercante di Venezia. AGLIANICO DEL Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. —M.L. VULTURE abv: 14% Price: $86 abv: 13.5% Price: $23 Cantine del Notaio 2007 Il Sigillo (Agli- Re Manfredi 2007 Serpara Aglianico anico del Vulture). Il Sigillo, which translates Di Meo 2009 A Aglianico (Campania). A 93 (Aglianico del Vulture). A beautiful expres- to “the seal,” opens with huge intensity and balance, 91 88 stenciled “A” on the bottle makes for some very sion of Aglianico made from grapes that were sourced which sets this expression of Aglianico apart from the handsome packaging. The wine inside the bottle is just from the estate’s Serpara Vineyard, this is darkly con- rest. It delivers sweet, ripe tannins and a larger-than-life as successful as its label, with savory aromas of cured centrated and powerful. It shows great aging potential, mouthfeel that promises a long future ahead. The nose meat and leather, backed by black fruit and Indian spice with dark fruit tones, natural structure and freshness. shows a black fruit layer, backed by spice, leather, rum notes. Il Mercante di Venezia. —M.L. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. cake and tobacco notes. Keep for 10 years or more. Mi- abv: 13.5% Price: $23 abv: 13.5% Price: $50 chael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Mastroberardino 2009 Aglianico (Cam- abv: 14% Price: $55 Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Aglianico pania). Carefully aged in oak casks, this hearty 88 del Vulture. This hearty Aglianico del Vulture Aglianico shows complexity and brawn, with bold notes Basilisco 2009 Basilisco (Aglianico del 90 show a note of soft spice and a velvety texture, followed of black fruit, spice and leather. Tightly firm tannins give Vulture). Basilisco delivers a deeply volca- 92 by black fruit and dried berry aromas. The wine is aged it long staying power. Winebow. —M.L. nic expression of Aglianico, with aromas of dried fruit, for 18 months in French oak for extra spice and smoke abv: 13% Price: $30 crushed granite, lead pencil and exotic spice. Thanks to 18 months of oak aging, it also shows supple softness highlights. —M.L. Orion Wine 2010 Rocca del Dragone and a velvety texture that gives this usually austere wine abv: 14% Price: $NA Aglianico (Campania). Packaged in a screw- an easy approach overall. Soilair Selection. —M.L. 88 Lucania 2008 Damaschito (Aglianico del cap bottle, Rocca del Dragone is a sophisticated value abv: 14% Price: $42 Vulture). This shows elegant and linear traits of wine with an easy approach. A sweet-tasting blackberry 90 smoky mineral and dried berry, backed by savory layers note is backed by firm tannins and toasted oak spice. Bisceglia 2005 Gudarrà Riserva (Agli- of cured meat and leather. Having spent 18 months ma- Traditional Wine Innovations LLC. Editors’ Choice. 92 anico del Vulture). This dar, dusty Aglianico turing in oak, this has a soft, rich approach on the palate. —M.L. opens with enticing aromas of liquid smoke, pipe tobac- abv: 13% Price: $15 co, ash, candied fruit, leather and exotic spice. It de- Oliver McCrum Wines. —M.L. livers bold, dark intensity and a long-lasting finish. It abv: 14% Price: $25 Di Meo 2010 Isso Aglianico (Campania). speaks highly of Basilicata, one of Italy’s most fascinat- Aglianico Isso delivers leather and spice, sur- ing and unexplored regions. Winebow. Cellar Selec- Tenuta Le Querce 2007 Rosso di Costan- 87 za (Aglianico del Vulture). rounded by soft contours of cherry and blackberry. The tion. —M.L. 90 Definitely a dusty tannins that characterize this grape variety appear abv: 14% Price: $45 standout in a crowd, Rosso di Costanza shows a broad, on the finish. Il Mercante di Venezia. —M.L. rustic personality, with bold tannins, a textured mouth- abv: 12% Price: $21 Cantine del Notaio 2008 La Firma (Agli- feel and intense aromas of ripe fruit and smoke. It’s not 92 anico del Vulture). La Firma, which trans- for everyone, but if you like power and muscle, this is Donnachiara 2008 Aglianico (Campan- lates to “the signature,” is a powerful wine, with bold for you. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. 87 ia). You could easily imagine this wine paired aromatic intensity and alcoholic heat to match. It’s a abv: 13.5% Price: $41 with creamy foods like oven-roasted lasagna with crusty brawny, masculine expression, with thick layers of spice, cheese. That’s because this Aglianico has both the acid- tobacco, prune and dried berry, capped by a sensation Terra dei Re 2006 Divinus (Aglianico del ity and the structure to cut though such a dish, keeping of fullness and sweet-tasting fruit. Its velvety, smooth 90 Vulture). From beautiful vineyards on the an- the palate clean. Charmer Sunbelt Group. —M.L. mouthfeel helps balance the wine’s overall austerity. Mi- cient Vulture volcano in southern Italy, Divinus opens abv: 13% Price: $18 chael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. with savory aromas of leather and cured meat, followed abv: 14.5% Price: $45 by dried berry and prune. Polished tannins and tones of Terredora 2010 Aglianico (Campania). lead pencil and smoke indicate the wine is aging nicely. 87 This bright Aglianico delivers a dark fruit aro- Cantine del Notaio 2008 Il Repertorio —M.L. ma, with touches of rum cake and dusty mineral at the 91 (Aglianico del Vulture). Il Repertorio shows abv: 13.5% Price: $NA back. The brightness of the acidity will refresh your an authentic and slightly rustic personality, with flavors tastebuds. Vias Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. of candied fruit, prune, plum, lead pencil and cured Re Manfredi 2008 Aglianico del Vulture. abv: 13% Price: $13 meat. It delivers a polished, elegant finish. Michael 90 For full review see page 8. Skurnik Wines. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $37 Villa Matilde 2010 Tenuta Rocca dei Le- abv: 14% Price: $25 87 oni Aglianico (Campania). Villa Matilde Bisceglia 2008 Gudarrà (Aglianico del delivers well-made expressions of Aglianico year after Lucania 2007 Bosco del Falco (Aglianico 89 Vulture). This is a generous and powerful ex- year. This wine shows modern flair, with background 91 del Vulture). Sourced from 50-year-old vines, pression of Aglianico, with angular edges, tight tannins tones of spice and bitter chocolate that are layered be- Bosco del Falco shows inky concentration, with dusty and a lasting mineral impression. There’s little fresh

WineMag.com | 35 fruit here, but prune and cassis are apparent. Winebow. Vigneti del Vulture 2009 Pipoli (Agliani- Luccarelli 2010 Ampelo (Primitivo di —M.L. 87 co del Vulture). Spelled with a backward “P,” 87 Manduria). Extremely ripe, chewy and soft, abv: 14% Price: $25 Pipoli delivers dark fruit nuances of blackberry and this lush Primitivo offers aromas of sweet tobacco, rum prune, with light touches of cherry soda and raspberry cake, cinnamon and blackberry preserves. There are Basilisco 2009 Teodosio (Aglianico del at the back. There’s a subtle impression of sweetness touches of sweet-tasting fruit and raisin in the mouth. 88 Vulture). Although they are made by the same that helps soften the grape’s tight tannins. World Wide Gran Sasso USA. —M.L. company, this offers slightly different characteristics Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA than the Aglianico del Vulture produced by Feudi di abv: 13% Price: $16 San Gregorio. This is a balanced and linear wine, with Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Primitivo di wild berry and spice aromas that render a sensation of Bisceglia 2010 Terra di Vulcano (Agli- 86 Manduria. Aged only in stainless steel, this is brightness. Solair Selection. —M.L. 86 anico del Vulture). It can’t be easy to turn a a food-friendly offering that shows a bright ruby color, abv: 13% Price: $20 hearty red grape like Aglianico into an informal, easy- bearing sweet aromas of cherry and raspberry candy. drinking red. Despite the grape’s famously unyielding The mouthfeel is clean, crisp and easy. Palm Bay Inter- Cantina di Venosa 2008 Terre di Orazio tannins, Terra di Vulcano has an easy approach, with national. —M.L. 88 (Aglianico del Vulture). Terre di Orazio of- notes of bright berry, dried herb and a touch of green abv: 14% Price: $21 fers a compact, subtle expression of Aglianico that pepper at the back. Winebow. —M.L. seems to be holding back. The aromas are subtle, with abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Vigne & Vini 2008 Terre dei Trulli Pinnaco- just the right intensity of fruit and spice. Sober LLC. 86 li (Primitivo di Manduria). This exhibits per- —M.L. Cantine Sasso 2009 Sasso (Aglianico fumed notes of violet and dried lavender, followed by abv: 13.5% Price: $22 86 del Vulture). This approachable Aglianico touches of cherry, rum cake and exotic spice. Southern del Vulture is easy and bright, with a dark fruit aroma Italy’s sun shines through the wine’s sweet, chewy finish. Lucania 2010 Grifalco (Aglianico del Vul- and a mineral note at the back. Pair this structured red Wines Unlimited, Inc. —M.L. 88 ture). This delivers excellent value, with dark wine with pork chops or grilled lamb. Bacchanal Wines. abv: 14% Price: $16 fruit aromas, tight tannins and a lingering spice note. —M.L. The wine is aged partly in oak and partly in stainless abv: 13% Price: $14 steel. It would make an excellent partner to barbecued SALENTO meats. Oliver McCrum Wines. —M.L. Tenute Rubino 2010 TorreTesta Susuman- abv: 14% Price: $14 BASILICATA 92 iello (Salento). TorreTesta demonstrates the Bisceglia 2008 Tréje (Basilicata). This rich beauty and power of Puglia’s little-known Susumaniello Tenuta Le Querce 2009 Il Viola (Agliani- blend of Aglianico, Merlot and Syrah opens grape. Enhanced by careful oak aging, the wine offers co del Vulture). This opens with a jammy 90 88 with deep and penetrating aromas of dried berry, cur- dark fruit aromas, followed by tobacco, chocolate and fruit aroma, led primarily by blackberry preserves and rant, black granite, leather and tobacco. It shows a tight, rum cake notes. On the palate, it is soft, plush and rich, prune. The tight tannins give the wine composure and fine texture on the palate. Winebow. —M.L. with a mocha-tinged finish. Panebianco. —M.L. solid firmness on the finish. Montcalm Wine Import- abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $48 ers. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $19 Cantine del Notaio 2010 L’Atto (Basili- Tenute Rubino 2010 Visellio Primitivo cata). L’Atto delivers delicate notes of bright (Salento). Vintner Luigi Rubino represents a Terra dei Re 2009 Vultur (Aglianico del 88 91 berry, spice, sweet cherry and cassis. It shows a fine, new generation of young and dynamic winemakers in Vulture). Vultur captures the essence of volca- 88 delicate quality, backed by generous fullness and power. Puglia. This is a dark and decadent red wine, with sweet nic soil, expressing notes of wet earth, crushed stone, Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. oak tones that sit behind the cherry, chocolate fudge, ash, tobacco and dried berry, plus dusty, firm tannins. abv: 14% Price: $20 cinnamon and tobacco. The mouthfeel is supple, rich —M.L. and long-lasting. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Tenuta Le Querce NV Tamurro Nero (Ba- abv: 15.5% Price: $32 silicata). Packaged in a massively heavy bottle, Vigneti del Vulture 2006 Piano del Cerro 88 Tamurro Nero is a blend of grapes indigenous to Basili- Miali 2008 Mater Primitivo (Salento). A Riserva (Aglianico del Vulture). Redolent 88 cata. It deals spicy tones of cinnamon and sweet tobac- pure expression of Primitivo, this is aged in of moist pipe tobacco and exotic spice, like cardamom 88 co, with notes of dried fruit and black cherry. Montcalm large oak casks for 24 months to produce a cherry aro- and clove, this is a massive wine that hits all the sens- Wine Importers. —M.L. ma that is in balance with the notes of toasted almond es in full force. Dark fruit and prune notes add a light abv: 14% Price: $NA and spice. The mouthfeel is chewy, rich and bold. Rubia impression of sweetness to the otherwise superchewy, Di Bra Llc. —M.L. thick mouthfeel. Worldwide Cellars. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $27 abv: 14% Price: $30 PRIMITIVO DI Tenute Rubino 2011 Oltremé Susumani- Cantina di Venosa 2008 Vignali (Agliani- MANDURIA ello (Salento). Youthful and bright, Oltremé co del Vulture). Perfect for grilled or roasted 88 87 Luccarelli 2009 Pazzia (Primitivo di Man- gives a new perspective to the Susumaniello grape. This meat dishes, this is a well-priced and approachable Agli- duria). Bold and delicious, this shows a dark, demonstrates an informal style, which emphasizes the anico-based wine, with soft tones of ripe fruit and tobac- 88 inky color, with ripe notes of blackberry, rum cake, cin- integrity of the fresh fruit flavors—cherry, blackberry co. The finish is clean and tight, with medium intensity. namon and nutmeg. The palate is sweet, plush and jam- and plum—which are surrounded by a soft, velvety tex- Sober LLC. —M.L. my. Gran Sasso USA. —M.L. ture. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Lucania 2010 Gricos (Aglianico del Vul- Torrevento 2009 Ghenos (Primitivo di Tenute Rubino 2009 Miraglio Negroama- ture). Aged in large oak casks, this wine shows 87 Manduria). This is a pure expression of Primi- ro (Salento). is one of the great bold spice and dried berry aromas, with lingering ac- 88 88 tivo that shows superbold and rich aromas of blackberry red wine varieties of Puglia. This expression delivers cents of leather and pipe tobacco. The tight tannins give and blueberry, folded within a plump, chewy texture. aromas of black fruit, cherry and crushed white pepper. the wine structure and staying power. Oliver McCrum The finish is round and soft. Philarmonica. —M.L. Wines. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $11

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 It’s an easy, fresh wine with a touch of sour fruit on the Mineo Family Vineyards 2008 Ormus Miali 2010 Primitivo (Salento). This offers close. Panebianco. —M.L. 87 Primitivo (Salento). This shows a note of 83 bright cherry and forest berry aromas, with a abv: 13% Price: $18 bright fruit, followed by leather, tobacco, rum cake, tangy touch of sourness that would work with cheesy crushed black pepper and cured meat. The wine is sim- pasta dishes. Rubia Di Bra Llc. —M.L. Vigneti Reale 2010 Rudiae Primitivo ple, clean and driven by ripe fruit flavors. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $14 88 (Salento). Natural characteristics of the Prim- abv: 14% Price: $19 itivo grape include bold fruit tones of blackberry and blueberry, backed by plush sweetness and dark rich- Vinosia 2011 Primitivo (Salento). This PUGLIA ness. Rudiae offers all of those qualities with added 87 Primitivo is packed with dark fruit aromas— Masseria Altemura 2011 Aglianico (Pug- spice notes from oak aging in large wooden casks. Bac- like prune and plum—backed by light spice and al- lia). From the Zonin family’s brand-new win- chanal Wines. —M.L. mond tones. The finish seems to show a cheerful spot 88 ery at Masseria Altemura—one of the most important abv: 14% Price: $15 of sweetness. Pair this with oven-roasted pasta or grilled wine investments made in Puglia in decades—comes meat. Domaine Select Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. this spicy, leathery expression of Aglianico. It delivers Vigneti Reale 2009 Santa Croce (Salen- —M.L. bold fruit and blackberry notes, with distant prune and to). Santa Croce (80% Negroamaro, 20% Prim- abv: 13% Price: $13 88 tobacco accents. Zonin USA. —M.L. itivo) offers sassy, savory aromas of sandalwood, cinna- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 mon, nutmeg and bold cherry. On the palate, it shows Miali 2009 Campirossi Primitivo (Salen- medium density and an impression of fruity sweetness. to). Campirossi opens with slightly muddled 86 Miali 2009 Settarte (Puglia). Primitivo Bacchanal Wines. —M.L. aromas of candied fruit, leather and almond. It shows a (70%) and Syrah are blended to produce a full abv: 13.5% Price: $20 touch of bitterness on the finish, with lingering notes of 88 and generous wine, with notes of blackberry, cherry crushed white pepper. Rubia Di Bra Llc. —M.L. soda, curry leaf and a touch of cracked black pepper. Villa Mottura 2010 Le Pitre Negroamaro abv: 14% Price: $17 A savory herb note appears on the finish. Rubia Di Bra (Salento). This shows a cheerful, fruity side, 88 Llc. —M.L. with ripe cherry and blackberry notes, backed by cin- Miali 2009 Ìchore (Salento). This blend of abv: 14% Price: $38 namon and nutmeg. The mouthfeel is smooth and soft. 86 Negroamaro and Primitivo opens with savory Siena Imports. —M.L. aromas of cured ham, pipe tobacco, jammy fruit and Teanum 2008 Gran Tiati (Puglia). This abv: 13.5% Price: $35 prune. The mouthfeel is soft and velvety. This wine will southern Italian blend of Aglianico, Montepul- appeal to those who enjoy a ripe, raisiny style. Rubia Di 88 ciano and Syrah is aged 12 months in oak to produce Villa Mottura 2010 Le Pitre Primitivo Bra Llc. —M.L. a rich, plush, extracted wine. Its delicious qualities ap- (Salento). Smoky, ripe fruit and dark spice abv: 13.5% Price: $16 88 proach excess, with jammy aromas of blackberry and notes are enhanced by bright tones of blackberry and spice. Fortunately, the mouthfeel is austere and mea- blueberry. Pair this with potato gnocchi in meat sauce Vigneti Reale 2010 Norie Negroamaro sured. Gattopardo USA LLC. —M.L. or orecchiette with smoked ricotta cheese. Siena Im- (Salento). This showcases the easy character- 86 abv: 14.5% Price: $27 ports. —M.L. istics of Puglia’s Negroamaro grape. It opens with sweet abv: 14.5% Price: $35 spice and jammy aromas of cherry preserves and black- Matané 2011 Primitivo (Puglia). This wine berry. Bacchanal Wines. —M.L. from southern Italy shows notes of ripe cherry, Villa Mottura 2009 Le Pitre Negroamaro abv: 13% Price: $13 87 prune, cinnamon and leather. The mouthfeel is soft and (Salento). Founded in 1927, Villa Mottura is a 88 seemingly sweet, making this an excellent pairing part- steady presence in the wine identity of Salento. This de- Miali 2008 Negroamaro (Salento). Made ner to tomato-based pasta sauces. Empson (USA) Ltd. livers ripe fruit and bold spice notes, with a soft, chewy from Puglia’s celebrated Negroamaro grape, 85 Best Buy. —M.L. texture. Siema LLC. —M.L. this opens with a ripe fruit aroma of blackberry jam abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA and a savory cured-meat tone. The mouthfeel is chewy, soft and slightly bitter on the finish. Rubia Di Bra Llc. Torre Quarto 2009 Sangue Blu Negroa- Castello Monaci 2010 Maru Negroamaro —M.L. maro (Puglia). “Sangue Blu,” which translates (Salento). Negroamaro Maru is characterized abv: 13% Price: $13 86 87 to “blue blood,” offers sun-drenched aromas of ripe by simple, sweet-tasting fruit aromas of blackberry jelly fruit and rum cake that are backed by tobacco and sweet and raspberry. Those pretty fruit flavors are backed by Cortenova 2010 Primitivo (Salento). Pack- Indian spice notes. The mouthfeel is textured, gritty and soft tannins and a chewy texture. Frederick Wildman & aged in a fun screwcap bottle, this easy Primiti- 84 rich. Montecastelli Selections. —M.L. Sons, Ltd. —M.L. vo opens with bitter almond and cherry flavors, followed abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 by crisp fruit and citrus freshness. It would pair with grilled pork chops. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.L. Torre Quarto 2009 Tarabuso Primitivo Castello Monaci 2009 Maru Negroamaro abv: 13% Price: $10 (Puglia). This is a bold and masculine expres- (Salento). Negroamaro is a signature grape 86 87 sion of Primitivo, with aromas of earth, tobacco, ripe of the Salento in Italy’s deep south. The variety’s natu- Miali 2009 Pizzo del Vento Negroamaro fruit and leather. The wine seems to show some age and ral fruitiness and freshness can stand up to the strong (Salento). Very informal and light, this shows 84 offers a slightly gritty texture on the palate. Montecas- sunshine and heat of the region. This expression offers fresh fruit aromas that are backed by notes of green telli Selections. —M.L. an especially bold and fleshy interpretation with linger- grass and dried herb. It feels sharp and lean on the abv: 13% Price: $18 ing flavors of cherry, spice and mild tobacco. Frederick close. Rubia Di Bra Llc. —M.L. Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 A-Mano 2009 Primitivo (Puglia). Here’s a abv: 13% Price: $15 straight-shooting, cheerful expression of Primi- Pasqua 2011 Lapaccio Primitivo (Salen- 85 tivo that would pair with simple pasta or meat dishes. Feudi di San Marzano 2009 Red (Salen- to). Lapaccio is an easy and informal expression 84 It opens with a bright ruby color and lively berry aro- to). A red blend from Salento, this bright red of Primitivo, with simple cherry and cola aromas. In the 87 mas of cherry and blackberry. Underdog Wine & Spir- offers jammy notes of blackberry preserves, black cher- mouth, it shows a sweet-tasting red-fruit flavor. Pasqua its. —M.L. ry and prune. There’s an impression of sweetness on the U.S.A LLC. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 finish, followed by a rich, chewy mouthfeel. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 abv: 13% Price: $12

WineMag.com | 37 Casalbaio 2009 Salenzio Negroama- leather, tobacco, bitter chocolate and plump blackberry. grape renders bright fruit tones of cherry and blackber- 85 ro (Puglia). Salenzio is the ancient word for It delivers solid tannins backed by smooth concentra- ry, and the second delivers power and structure. Philar- Salento, the area of southern Italy where the native Ne- tion. Winebow. —M.L. monica. —M.L. groamaro grape thrives. This expression tastes slightly abv: 13.5% Price: $35 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA sweet and heavy, with background tones of jammy fruit and sour spice. Pair it with sausage pizza. Vision Wine Capolino Perlingieri 2008 Sciascì (San- Verrone 2009 Prime Vigne Aglianico (Ci- & Spirits. —M.L. 89 nio). This is a terrific wine for those who love 87 lento). This inky-dark red wine made from abv: 13.5% Price: $15 discovering the tastes and flavors of little-known indig- the hearty Aglianico grape shows chewy, rich berry fla- enous grapes from southern Italy. Aglianco and Sciasci- vors and determined alcoholic heat. This is a powerful Cielo e Terra 2011 Primi Soli Primitivo noso are blended in equal parts, producing a bold, spicy red wine, with loads of black fruit intensity and a bold, 85 (Puglia). A certified , this offers wine, with cinnamon, nutmeg and dried fruit aromas. chewy finish. Bazzini Wine Merchants. —M.L. easy berry aromas of cherry and raspberry that would Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $17 pair with informal foods like pizza. The mouthfeel is abv: 13.5% Price: $22 lean and bright. —M.L. Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 Lacryma abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Librandi 2009 Gravello (Val di Neto). A 85 Christi del Vesuvio. Lacryma Christi is a 89 “super Calabria” blend of Gaglioppo and Caber- rustic and savory red wine, with bright tones of dried Rapido Red 2011 Sangiovese (Puglia). net Sauvignon, Gravello delivers savory notes of leather, currant, spice, tobacco and leather. It includes touches 85 Here’s an easy, racy and fun bottle of red wine dried berry, spice and cured meat. There’s a touch of of cured meat and bresaola, and the finish is sour and to pack away in a picnic basket or to enjoy with friends sour cherry on the tasty, rich finish. Winebow. —M.L. fresh. Palm Bay International. —M.L. at an outdoor barbecue. This is Sangiovese from south- abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 13% Price: $16 ern Italy, showing ripe notes of cherry and raspber- ry, backed by a touch of sweet almond. Vias Imports. Villa Matilde 2008 Falerno del Massico. —M.L. 89 Falerno del Massico (80% Aglianico and 20% SICILY & SARDINIA abv: 13% Price: $10 Piedirosso) is a great food wine to pair with grilled lamb chops or lasagna with baked mozzarella. It shows SICILIA WHITES Teanum 2009 Òtre Primitivo (Puglia). This smooth lines that are backed by dried fruit and dusty 85 pure expression of Primitivo is partially aged in mineral notes. There’s a bright touch of sour berry on I Custodi 2010 Ante (Sicilia). Ante, which oak for added extra structure and concentration. The the close. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. 90 is Etna spelled backwards, is a blend of the in- bouquet here is characterized by jammy strawberry and abv: 13.5% Price: $26 digenous Carricante, Minnella and Grecanico grapes. It bitter almond notes. Gattopardo USA LLC. —M.L. shows fine texture, with polished citrus and stone fruit abv: 15% Price: $18 Cantine Paolo Leo 2008 Riserva (Salice notes that characterize wines made using grapes from 88 Salentino). A fantastic food wine made using volcanic soils. The fruit was farmed organically from grapes that were sourced from 35-year-old vines, this a vineyard 700 meters above sea level. Casa Bruno. OTHER RED WINES opens with dark fruit aromas of prune, plum, raisin and —M.L. candied cherry. There’s a dusty mineral element and a abv: 13% Price: $32 Capolino Perlingieri 2007 Talento Agli- touch of bright acidity that keep the wine from tasting anico (Sannio). This will hit your senses hard 91 jammy or overripe. Traditional Wine Innovations LLC. Tenuta Gorghi Tondi 2011 Kheirè Grillo with dusty layers of crushed mineral, campfire ash, —M.L. 87 (Sicilia). A beautifully fragrant Grillo, this has toasted nut and cured meat. The approach is bold and abv: 13.5% Price: $19 a flower aroma and an evident touch of zesty spice on powerful. The wine rides smooth over the palate with the finish. The mouthfeel is lean and fresh. Voliovino. thick tannins and determination. Montcalm Wine Im- Di Majo Norante 2010 Contado Riserva —M.L. porters. —M.L. Aglianico (Molise). From one of the best abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 14% Price: $32 88 producers in the little-traveled region of Molise on Ita- ly’s Adriatic flank, this wine shows the far reaches of the Barraco 2010 Zibibbo (Sicilia). Zibibbo Galardi 2010 Terra di Lavoro (Roccamon- Aglianico grape in southern Italy. This expression shows 86 is usually presented as a passito , fina). This hearty blend of Aglianico and Pied- 91 bright fruit tones of blackberry and cherry, backed by but this is dry. The natural floral fragrance of the variety irosso offers a compelling bouquet that is as savory velvety tannins. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. emerges on the nose, while the mouthfeel and the hon- and rich as it is elegant and composed. Dusty notes of abv: 13.5% Price: $17 ey and peach flavors are detailed with acids. Williams crushed stone and dried fruit hold the wine together Corner Wine. —M.L. and give it momentum. The mouthfeel is bone dry, Mastroberardino 2010 Lacryma Christi abv: 13% Price: $35 with loads of dark prune and tobacco flavors. Winebow. del Vesuvio. A pure expression of the Pied- —M.L. 88 irosso grape from southern Italy, this opens with aromas Colosi 2011 Grillo (Sicilia). This bright abv: 14% Price: $90 of violet, rose and wild berry. The fresh acidity makes 86 Grillo opens with a light golden color, with fresh it a perfect match for cheesy pizza. Winebow. —M.L. aromas of cut grass, citrus and stone fruit. The mouth- Villa Matilde 2005 Camarato (Falerno del abv: 12.5% Price: $20 feel is simple, crisp and sharp. Vias Imports. —M.L. 91 Massico). Produced by the ancient Romans, abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Falerno may be the world’s oldest wine that still enjoys Terra Jovia 2007 Primitivo (Gioia del vibrant consumption to this very day. Aglianico (80%) Colle). A pure expression of Primitivo, this Stemmari 2011 Pinot Grigio (Sicilia). Pre- and Piedirosso are blended to produce a richly layered 87 shows slightly muddled aromas at first that slowly open 86 viously known as Feudo Arancio, Stemmari is and complex wine, featuring tones of black fruit, min- to show clear portraits of Indian spice, cherry, ripe a beautiful estate in Sicily owned by the Mezzacorona eral and smoked barbecue sauce. It shows aged aromas blackberry, prune and candied fruit. The finish is round, Group in northern Italy. This sun-drenched expression of cassis and spice. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. soft and chewy. Martin Ulisse Imports. —M.L. of Pinot Grigio offers aromas of ripe melon, dried grass abv: 14% Price: $80 abv: 15% Price: $50 and stone fruit. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy. —M.L. Di Majo Norante 2009 Don Luigi Riserva Torrevento 2009 Bolonero (Castel del abv: 13.5% Price: $9 (Molise). A proud signature of Molise, Don 90 Monte). From the Castel del Monte wine zone Luigi Riserva is a lovely -based wine— 87 in northern Puglia, Bolonero is a blend of 70% Nero di Stemmari 2011 Grillo (Sicilia). Using fruit with 10% Aglianico—that opens with dark aromas of Troia and 30% Aglianico aged in stainless steel. The first 86 that was sourced from the vineyards of Feudo

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 Arancio near the town of Sambuca in southern Sicily, as Grenache in France and California. This expression leaf and rosemary. The tannins are firm and tight, with a this pretty white wine offers bright aromas of lemon, shows sweet spice and dried fruit notes, with black cur- fine, silky texture. Kobrand. —M.L. green apple and cut grass. A long list of seafood menu rant and milled peppercorn accents. Pair it with broc- abv: 14% Price: $35 items would pair with this Grillo. Prestige Wine Imports coli and sausage pasta. Tricana Imports. —M.L. Corp. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $28 Pala 2008 S’arai (Isola dei Nuraghi). abv: 13% Price: $9 90 Showcasing some of Sardinia’s most widely Mesa 2010 Primo Scuro (Cannonau di planted indigenous grapes—Cannonau, Carignano and Barraco 2010 Grillo (Sicilia). This is a very 87 Sardegna). Primo Scuro is dark and spicy— Bovale—S’arai is a bold, round red wine, with a long, 82 oxidized expression of Grillo from Sicily (the va- despite the fact the wine is aged only in stainless steel— smooth, velvety texture. On the nose, the wine presents rietal is naturally prone to oxidation) that shows a deep with layers of rum cake, sun-ripened fruit, candied black cherry, spice and mild tobacco notes. Banville & golden color, opening with aromas of butterscotch and cherry and nutmeg. Its naturally spicy characteristics Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. caramel. The producer follows the organic winemaking suggest a pairing with lamb in mild curry. Montcalm abv: 14.5% Price: $46 philosophy of “vino naturale.” Williams Corner Wine. Wine Importers. —M.L. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $18 Pala 2009 Essentija Bovale (Isola dei abv: 14.5% Price: $35 89 Nuraghi). Bovale is a little-known red grape Pala 2011 I Fiori (Cannonau di Sarde- from Sardinia that offers smooth and rustic character- 87 gna). Plump and round with ripe cherry and istics that recall dried tobacco, earth, black fruit and OTHER WHITE WINES blackberry aromas, I Fiori is an easy wine to pair with spice. The finish is long and polished, with nice con- Pala 2010 Entemari (Isola dei Nuraghi). honey-roasted ham or chicken in mushroom cream centration and intensity. Banville & Jones Wine Mer- sauce. It shows balance and a mildly creamy texture. chants. —M.L. A beautiful blend of Vermentino, Malvasia and 88 Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $30 Chardonnay, this has sophisticated tones of exotic fruit, abv: 14% Price: $NA pineapple, peach and apricot. It offers a broad, creamy Pala 2009 Siray (Isola dei Nuraghi). This feel on the palate. These three grapes compliment each Tenute Soletta 2009 Corona Majore (Can- shows dark concentration, with dense aromas other nicely in terms of structure, aromas and texture. 89 nonau di Sardegna). Corona Majore is a of sweet cherry, tobacco, prune and blackberry. On the Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. 87 meaty and intense red wine, with slightly cooked notes palate, it delivers a ripe impression of sweetness and a abv: 14% Price: $NA of cherry syrup and blackberry pie, followed by tangy soft, plush texture. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. Pala 2011 Stellato (Vermentino di Sar- layers of spice and leather. The finish shows sour fruit —M.L. and generous texture. Tricana Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA degna). Stellato is the quintessential seafood 87 abv: 14% Price: $33 wine that opens with yellow flower, citrus, pear and Pala 2010 Silenzi (Isola dei Nuraghi). An apple aromas. There’s a grassy accent of dried hay at easy red blend from Sardinia, this shows aromas the back, and the wine is crisp and bright in the mouth. 86 ISOLA DEI NURAGHI of strawberry, cherry and cola. There’s a metallic nuance Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. somewhere at the back, capped by hints of black pep- abv: 14% Price: $NA Agricola Punica 2009 Barrua (Isola dei per and sweet-tasting fruit. Banville & Jones Wine Mer- Nuraghi). One of the nicest red wines to 93 chants. —M.L. Pala 2011 I Fiori (Nuragus di Cagliari). emerge from the Mediterranean island of Sardinia, abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 86 Made from the little-known Nuragus grape, Barrua presents lush berry fruit woven with delicate which is indigenous to the island of Sardinia,­ this is a notes of spice, leather and sweet chocolate. The wine terrific seafood wine for a warm summer afternoon. It is smooth, rich and long-lasting thanks to the delicious OTHER RED WINES showcases notes of citrus, peach and white flower. Ban- quality of its fruit. Kobrand. —M.L. ville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Mesa 2011 Buio (Carignano del Sulcis). abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 87 This has an edgy, sharp note that’s followed by Mesa 2010 Buio Buio Carignano (Isola small berry, wet earth, cola and dried ginger flavors. It Cantine di Dolianova 2011 Dolia (Ver- 91 dei Nuraghi). Buio Buio, which translates to offers a friendly disposition that will be a pleasure to 85 mentino di Sardegna). Here’s a fresh and “dark dark,” shows an inky-dark color and rich, soft con- drink with meatloafs or grilled franks. Montcalm Wine bright Vermentino that drinks easily and shows subdued centration. This handsome bottle offers pretty aromas Importers. —M.L. aromas of peach and honey. The mouthfeel is informal of blackberry, plum, spice and cinnamon, with sweet- abv: 14% Price: $26 and light. Saranty Imports. —M.L. tasting cherry endnotes. Montcalm Wine Importers. abv: 13% Price: $14 —M.L. Feudi del Pisciotto 2010 Baglio del Sole abv: 14% Price: $44 86 Nero d’Avola(Sicilia). For full review see page 10. Best Buy. ROSÉ Mesa 2009 Malombra (Isola dei Nuraghi). abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Pala 2011 Silenzi Rosato (Isola dei 91 Fine craftsmanship is evident in this Sardinian blend of Carignano and Syrah. The wine is rich and ex- Mesa 2011 Primo Rosso (Carignano del Nuraghi). This opens with a bright pink color 86 tracted, with bold fruit notes of blackberry and plum Sulcis). Primo Rosso is an easy, informal Cari- and easy aromas of spring flower, peach, cranberry and 86 followed by spice and tobacco. Some toasted oak influ- gnano-based wine, with sharp aromas of berry, bitter al- grapefruit. It has a subtle impression of sweetness on ences appear in the mouth alongside soft, smooth tan- mond and cherry cola. The zesty freshness would pair the finish, followed by bright fruit flavors. Banville & nins. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. with baked scamorza cheese. Montcalm Wine Import- Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $65 ers. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Agricola Punica 2009 Montessu (Isola CANNONAU DI 90 dei Nuraghi). Montessu is a gorgeous blend Pala 2010 I Fiori (Monica di Sardegna). of Carignano, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, 84 This expression of the indigenous Monica grape SARDEGNA Merlot and Syrah that shows full fruit flavors of plum opens with flavors of sour fruit and cherry cola. Its easy Tenute Soletta 2009 Sardo (Cannonau and blackberry, followed by slightly green tones of curry informality is perfect for cocktail hour. Banville & Jones di Sardegna). The Cannonau grape went by Wine Merchants. —M.L. 88 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA the Spanish name Cañonat in the 1500s, known today

WineMag.com | 39 intensely aromatic . It’s luscious yet dry on the ously aromatic Riesling pairs a dark, minerally element GERMANY palate, elegantly swathed with dusty minerals and sheer, with notes of sweet, ripe melon and stone fruit. Dry and DRY WHITE WINES tangerine-like acidity. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.I. full bodied, with an herbaceous, fresh midpalate. Do- abv: 13% Price: $50 maine Select Wine Estates. —A.I. RHEINGAU abv: 13% Price: $70 Domdechant Werner 2010 Hochheimer Johannishof 2010 Rüdesheim Berg 90 Hölle Riesling Kabinett Trocken (Rhe- Schloss Reinhartshausen 2009 Erbach 93 Rottland Erstes Gewächs Riesling (Rhe- ingau). Notes of mandarin oranges, honey and white 88 Marcobrunn Dry Riesling (Rheingau). ingau). Ebullient floral and honey notes bolster the in- blossoms are sweet introductions to this dry, intensely While this is aromatic with scents of ripe apples, nectar- tense, ripe, fleshy mango and peach flavors in this pow- minerally Riesling. It’s voluptously textured with layers ines, honey and lanolin, it has a subdued elegance. The erful Riesling. Full bodied and remarkably dry in style, of crushed stone, granite and ripe fruit, but vibrant, cit- dry, medum-bodied palate is crisp and clean, with hints with a richly textured, almost feathered mouthfeel. It rusy acidity keeps the mouthfeel bright. Slocum & Sons, of green herbs and honeycomb that linger. Palm Bay finishes exceptionally long, with a bristle of lemon-lime Inc. —A.I. International. —A.I. acidity. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 12.5% Price: $60 abv: 13% Price: $68 Domdechant Werner 2009 Hochheimer Robert Weil 2010 Kiedrich Gräfenberg 90 Kirchenstück Erstes Gewächs Riesling RHEINHESSEN Erstes Gewächs Riesling Trocken (Rhe- Trocken (Rheingau). 93 Hints of crushed wet stone and Kühling-Gillot 2009 Nierstein Pettenthal ingau). Voluptuous and almost creamy on the palate, granite penetrate through the honeyed peach and flow- GG Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen). this very dry yet intensely fruity Riesling is chock full of er notes on this intensely minerally Riesling. Dry and 92 Steely and smoky, this luscious, full-bodied wine has a sweet white peach and orange blossom flavors, balanced lavishly textured, with peppery green notes of herb and gorgeous mineral tone. The palate is dry, yet decadent- by a shimmer of minerality and piercing acidity on the fennel, it has a medium-long finish. Slocum & Sons, Inc. ly fruity and floral, with loads of dainty blossoms and long finish. Loosen Bros. USA.Editors’ Choice. —A.I. —A.I. yellow cherries. A rich, nuanced, impeccably balanced abv: 13.5% Price: $88 abv: 13% Price: $50 wine. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $55 Robert Weil 2010 Kiedrich Turmberg Domdechant Werner 2010 Hochheimer Riesling Trocken (Rheingau). There are Kirchenstück Riesling Spätlese Trocken 92 90 Wittmann 2010 Westhofen Aulerde dashes of exotic spice and ash that permeate into the (Rheingau). There are edges of of smoke and violet on Riesling ­ Trocken (Rheinhessen). Every- lavish stonefruit and waxy flower notes on the nose and this dry yet lavish Riesling. On the palate, notes of ripe 92 thing about this Riesling is elegant and balanced: Sweet- palate. This is complex and intensely juicy; the brisk yellow peach and plum shine against a backdrop of lem- tasting, honeyed fruit and flower elements are coun- acidity and crushed gravel notes add a clean, minerally ony acidity, accented with smoke, orange-spice, herb tered by smoke and savory fennel notes. Rich, creamy edge. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. and crushed stone hints. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.I. textures are enlivened by a shock of lemon-lime acidity. abv: 13% Price: $54 abv: 13% Price: $34 Juicy yet refined, it lingers long with a kiss of sweet nec- tarine flavor. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I. August Kesseler 2010 Rüdesheim Berg Johannishof 2010 Johannisberg Hölle abv: 13% Price: $100 91 Roseneck Erstes Gewächs Riesling 90 Erstes Gewächs Riesling (Rheingau). (Rheingau). Honeyed marmalade and bitter orange- Layers of stone, ash, steel and lanolin are showstop- Wittmann 2010 Westhofen Morstein GG rind flavors are a counterplay of silky-sweet and astrin- ping on this intensely minerally Rheingau Riesling. Dry Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen). Ripe on gent elements on this dry, but densely textured wine. and full-bodied in style, this has delicate stonefruit and 92 the attack, with flavors of fleshy, yellow stone fruit and Full bodied in style, it’s balanced with piercing lem- yellow-cherry flavors that play an understated role, but marmalade, this voluptuous yet dry Riesling is balanced, on-lime acidity, with a murmur of slate-like minerality linger sweetly on the finish. Valckenberg International, with layers of crushed stone and slate-driven minerality. through the finish. Vineyard Brands. —A.I. Inc. —A.I. Tart, citrusy acidity sends a sunny shockwave to your abv: 13% Price: $68 abv: 13% Price: $69 senses. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $100 Baron Knyphausen 2010 Erbacher Ho- Domdechant Werner 2010 Hochheimer henrain Erste Lage Riesling (Rheingau). Domdechaney Erstes Gewächs Riesling 91 89 Rheingraf 2010 Scharlachberg Bingen Hints of honey and orange spice sweeten the notes of Trocken (Rheingau). There’s a slate-like minerality GG Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen). This candle wax and lanolin on this intense, tangerine-in- that permeates through the layers of honey, wax and 91 is intensely ripe and almost tropical, with yellow fruit flected Riesling. It’s dry and full bodied in style, with heather on this impeccably dry Riesling. It’s full and and flower notes that are balanced with layers of smoke, a languorous heft of honey and flower flavors that meld creamy in texture, with focused, steely acidity. A bit wet stone and brisk, steely acidity. This is a dry yet lav- on the palate. Tangy lime acidity adds zip and balance. subdued, but elegant in structure. Slocum & Sons, Inc. ishly textured wine, with flavors that meander long on Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. —A.I. the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $68 abv: 13% Price: $50 abv: 13.5% Price: $66 Baron Knyphausen 2010 Erbacher Mar- Domdechant Werner 2009 Hochheimer Wittmann 2010 Westhofen Brunnen­ cobrunn Grosse Lage Riesling (Rhein- Domdechaney Erstes Gewächs Riesling 91 89 häuschen­ GG Riesling Trocken (Rhein- gau). Lush and richly textured, this dry, full-bodied Trocken (Rheingau). Heady notes of flower and ripe, 91 hessen). Delicate green-flower and pink grapefruit Riesling counterplays savory elements of smoke, fennel fleshy stone fruit perfume this dry yet lusciously fruity, flavors build in intensity and concentration on the palate and sweat with bright notes of juicy tangerine, honey full-bodied Riesling. Brisk lime-like acidity, a note of of this bold, full-bodied Riesling. It’s an impeccably tex- and lavender. Lemony acidity extends the finish, ending fresh green herb and a smoky, crushed-stone mineral- tured, dry wine, with a slick of waxy lanolin that lingers on an elegant, waxy flower note. Valckenberg Interna- ity add a cutting edge on the finish. Slocum & Sons, Inc. on the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I. tional, Inc. —A.I. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $100 abv: 13% Price: $92 abv: 14% Price: $50

Domdechant Werner 2010 Hochheimer Peter Jakob Kuhn 2009 Oestrich Doos- 91 Kirchenstück Erstes Gewächs Riesling 89 berg Riesling Trocken (Rheingau). Deeply Trocken (Rheingau). Flavors of ripe yellow mango smoky, as if enrobed in a layer of campfire ash, this curi- and peach nectar pack a punch in this intensely fruity,

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 GERMANY Maximin Grünhäuser 2010 Abtsberg Eifel-Pfeiffer 2010 Estate Collection 91 Riesling Auslese 72 (Mosel). While initially 90 Riesling­ Auslese (Mosel). This is a rare, ex- FRUCHTIG WHITE WINES quite lush on the palate, with undulating notes of honey, pressive Riesling­ that hints at violets and red berries. In- lanolin and hibiscus nectar, there’s an invigorating brisk- tensely fruity, it’s brisk, with tangy grapefruit-like acidity MOSEL ness on the midpalate from the sweet-tart citrus and and a delicious, bitter green-almond finish. Winesellers stone fruit flavors. It’s bright with acidity and delicate Ltd. —A.I. Maximin Grünhäuser 2010 Abtsberg lacings of sugar, spice and black tea. Valckenberg Inter- abv: 7.5% Price: $23 92 Riesling Auslese 37 (Mosel). Pretty fla- national, Inc. —A.I. vors of pink grapefruit and stone fruit are cloaked in abv: 7.5% Price: $85/375 ml Eifel-Pfeiffer 2010 Trittenheimer rich swathes of fennel, honey, petrol and spice on this 90 Apotheke­ Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). expressive, penetrating wine. Sweet-tasting and juicy, it Melsheimer 2010 Reiler Mullay-Hofberg A waxy lemon-peel note and a whiff of lanolin lend a bristles with streaks of acidity and astringency. It’s al- 91 Schäf Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Notes of mineral-driven slickness to this delicately textured, pen- ready showing its stripes, but it should be even more ex- waxy white flower, lemon peel and lanolin add a min- etrating Riesling. Ripe tropical-fruit flavors are honeyed citing in five years. Valckenberg International, Inc.Cel - erally slick to the ripe flavors of pineapple and yellow and intensely concentrated, yet the finish is elegant with lar Selection. —A.I. peach on this penetrating Riesling. Delicately textured a swathe of fresh, clean flowers. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 7% Price: $97 with loads of tangy acidity, it finishes quite long, with abv: 8% Price: $23 a hint of bitter tea leaf. Domaine Select Wine Estates. Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2010 —A.I. Dr. Loosen 2010 Erdener Prälat Riesling 92 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese abv: 7.5% Price: $40 90 Auslese Gold Capsule (Mosel). Sprightly (Mosel). Dark, mysterious aromas of smoke, petrol and crisp, with just 7% alcohol, this dainty Riesling is and brine are enticing on the nose. Semisweet in style, Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2010 juicy and brisk, with loads of sweet-tart tangerine fla- with an abundance of honeyed stone-fruit and citrus 91 Scharzhofberger­ #10 Riesling Auslese vor. Layers of bitter citrus rind and lanolin, along with flavors, this wine shows glimmers of maturity already, (Mosel). Slick with lanolin and honeycomb sheens, yet a steely midpalate, add depth, extending to a long, lem- but it’s structured enough to improve for at least 7–10 delicately textured, this is a symphonic harmony. Fla- ony finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. more years. Valckenberg International, Inc. Cellar Se- vors of juicy, sweet, pink grapefruit and yellow peach abv: 7% Price: $114/750 ml lection. —A.I. are ripe and tangy, but shadings of jasmine tea and pot- abv: 9% Price: $70 pourri add edge on the finish. Valckenberg Internation- Eifel-Pfeiffer 2010 Wehlener Sonnenuhr al, Inc. —A.I. 90 Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). A whiff of deli- Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef­) abv: 7.5% Price: $160/375 ml cate orange blossom adds a floral flair to intense honey 91 2010 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling and melon flavors on this sweet-tasting, sprightly little Auslese­ (Mosel). Notes of marmalade, spice, wax and Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2010 Riesling. It’s concentrated and unabashedly fruity, yet lanolin intertwine gorgeously on the nose and palate of 90 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese balanced by tart, citrusy acidity and a steel tone that lin- this penetrating, complex Riesling. Tasting unabash- (Mosel). Hints of smoke, caramel and lemon custard gers on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. edly sweet and honeyed, this features a note of bitter are curious and enticing on the nose and palate of this abv: 8% Price: $24 orange rind and intense tangerine-like acidity, making nuanced Riesling. Intense, ripe peach and apricot fla- it mouthwatering and sippable. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. vors are sweet but tangy with acidity. It finishes excep- Joh. Jos. Prüm 2010 Bernkasteler abv: 8% Price: $57/375 ml tionally long and remarkably dry. Valckenberg Interna- 90 Badstube ­ Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Dark tional, Inc. —A.I. shades of smoke, fennel and ramp counter the sunny Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef­) abv: 7.5% Price: $87/375 ml sweet-peach and melon notes on the nose and palate 91 2010 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling of this delicate, zippy Riesling. A slick of minerality on Spätlese­ (Mosel). Seemingly dripping with honey Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2010 the midpalate extends to the finish, ending with a tart and nectar, this lush, intensely concentrated Riesling is 90 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese­ grapefruit kiss. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. dense, with sweet white-peach, grapefruit and pear fla- (Mosel). A note of dried citrus peel adds a touch of abv: 8.5% Price: $48 vors. Veins of of dusty slate and sharp lemon-lime acid- spice to the whiff of petrol on this delicate, minerally ity add complexity and elegance to the long, lingering Riesling. The palate is zippy and brisk, with loads of Maximin Grünhäuser 2010 Abtsberg finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. fresh stone-fruit flavor and a long, steely finish that -re 90 Riesling Auslese 24 (Mosel). This wine abv: 8% Price: $62 verberates. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. is crisp, breezy and flirtatious in structure, yet deeply abv: 8.5% Price: $42 flavored with orange-cream, honey and blossom notes. Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2010 An intensely sweet-tasting tangerine note and an ele- 91 Bernkasteler­ Badstube Auslese Riesling­ Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) gant grapefruit-pith tone reverberate on the long finish. (Mosel). Whiffs of petrol, brine and fennel extend from 90 2010 Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Auslese ­ Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. the nose to the palate, adding a minerally sheen and a (Mosel). A hint of bitter citrus pith on the attack abv: 8% Price: $75/375 ml savory tone to the ripe peach and nectarine flavors. Lacy smooths out beautifully, evolving into sweet-tasting and crisp on the palate, it’s mouth-smackingly good and stone fruit, honey and crème caramel notes on this rich, Maximin Grünhäuser 2010 Bruderberg easy to keep sipping. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. balanced wine. Touches of sea salt and crushed stone 90 Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Aromatic with abv: 8% Price: $38 add minerality to the medium-long finish. Winesellers notes of honey, spice and the faintest whiff of petrol, Ltd. —A.I. this is rich in lemon cream and concentrated sweet- Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2010 Bernkasteler abv: 8.5% Price: $41/375 ml peach flavors. It’s lacy and brisk on the palate, with 91 alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling veins of stony minerality and bitter peach-skin astrin- Auslese (Mosel). With a veritable bouquet of honey- Dr. Hermann 2010 Erdener Prälat gency that prickles on the finish. Valckenberg Interna- suckle, fresh herb and freesia, this is one fragrant Ries- 90 Goldkap­ Riesling Auslese (Mosel). This tional, Inc. —A.I. ling. Crisp and clean on the palate, it’s sweet-tasting and delicately nuanced Riesling balances intense yellow- abv: 8% Price: $40 easy-drinking, with ultraripe stone fruit and a prickle peach and dried fig sweetness with a haze of smoke and of lime-skin astringency on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. notes of lanolin and beeswax. Juicy acidity and a hint Peter Nicolay 2010 Bernkasteler —A.I. of black tea astringency make for a long, elegant finish. 90 Badstube­ Riesling Auslese (Mosel). abv: 7.5% Price: $60 Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I. This tastes delicately sugared, with a lacy, almost frilly abv: 7.5% Price: $50/375 ml mouthfeel. Soft white peach and flower blossom on

WineMag.com | 41 the nose and palate make this an unabashedly lady-like ness, but zippy acidity keeps the palate brisk and easy- Huber 2009 Pinot Noir Trocken (Baden). Riesling, with a delicate crushed-stone minerality that drinking. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. 88 A spray of sour cherry acidity and clean, gravelly reverberates on the finish. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $19 minerality lend a tonic feel to this crisp, unabashedly abv: 7.5% Price: $35 cool-climate Pinot Noir. On the palate, delicate black- Graff 2010 Carl Graff Collection Graacher ­ cherry and plum flavors are bolstered by layers of smoke S.A. Prüm 2010 Graacher Himmelreich 88 Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). and caramel that linger on the finish. Valckenberg Inter- 90 Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Whiffs of Swathes of green herbs add freshness to the rich, sweet- national, Inc. —A.I. smoke, spice and nut oil add an alluring maturity to this tasting flavors of honey, peach and preserved lemon on abv: 13% Price: $38 Riesling­. The palate is gorgeously fruity, with loads of this lush, textured Riesling. While a bit tight and astrin- concentrated sweet peach, dried apricot and honey fla- gent on the midpalate, it lingers nicely on the finish, Huber 2009 Hecklinger Schlossberg R vors, but it’s honed and steely, with a long laser-beam with a crush of gravelly minerality. Valckenberg Inter- 87 GG Spätburgunder Trocken (Baden). Ini- finish. Palm Bay International. —A.I. national, Inc. —A.I. tial waves of charred oak and smoke impose against a abv: 8% Price: $25 abv: 8% Price: $17 delicate backdrop of black cherry and bramble, but fruity and herbaceous green flavors come through nice- S.A. Prüm 2010 Wehlener Sonnenuhr St. Gabriel 2010 Riesling Spätlese ly on the midpalate, layered with hints of earthy mush- 90 Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Delicately struc- 86 (Mosel)­. Aromatically subdued, with just a rooms and dusty minerals. Valckenberg International, tured, this is nevertheless penetrating and sweet-tast- whiff of steely minerality, this easygoing Riesling boasts Inc. —A.I. ing, with honey, marmalade and orange-cream flavors. ripe peach and apricot flavors, accented by hints of spice abv: 13.5% Price: $138 There’s ripeness here, but bristling acidity and dark and crushed stone. The finish is brisk, with vivid lemon- shades of slate, honeycomb and bitter citrus rind add l ­ime acidity. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —A.I. Huber 2009 Wildenstein R Spätbur- balance and depth. Palm Bay International. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $11 87 gunder Trocken (Baden). Burnt caramel, abv: 7.5% Price: $40/375 ml vanilla and herbaceous dill notes lend an oaky feel to the dainty red-plum and violet flavors. The tannins are Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2010 RHEINGAU finely grained but persistent, extending the long, sour- Bernkasteler Lay Erste Lage Riesling 89 Baron Knyphausen 2010 Hattenheimer cherry-flavored finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. Spätlese (Mosel). Hints of exotic spices and herbs Wisselbrunnen Grosse Lage Riesling —A.I. add savory tones to the concentrated stone-fruit and 90 (Rheingau). Aromas of honey and lavender permeate abv: 13.5% Price: $181 preserved lemon flavors on this semidry Riesling. Quite into layers of juicy pink grapefruit, tart tangerine and minerally on the midpalate, it finishes clean, with a Huber 2009 Alte Reben Spätburgunder sweet melon. It’s off-dry on the attack but finishes quite puckering, lemony acidity. Valckenberg International, (Baden). Sweet-tart red cherry and pastry dry, with a lush, honeycomb oiliness that lingers. Valck- 86 Inc. —A.I. notes are enticing, but the big char and smoke make enberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $42 abv: 11% Price: $85 it hard to focus on the palate’s abundance of juicy red- fruit flavors. Fine-grained yet persistent tannins extend Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2010 Johannishof 2010 Johannisberger Hölle the finish. It ends with a delicate spray of violet per- Graacher­ Himmelreich Riesling Auslese 89 Riesling Auslese (Rheingau). Intensely fume. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. (Mosel). Smoke and mineral oil tones add layers of 87 minerally, with shades of crushed stone and wet grav- abv: 13.5% Price: $77 depth to the pretty white blossom, peach and tanger- el, this is a dainty, sweet Riesling, with loads of white ine notes on this crisp, nervy Riesling. Mouthwateringly Huber 2009 Bombacher Sommerhalde peach, honey and sweet tangerine flavors. A hint of tangy with a delicious note of Sour Patch candy on the R GG Spätburgunder Trocken (Baden). dried herb on the midpalate finishes on a slightly craggy, 86 finish. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. Abundant layers of char and smoke threaten to over- bitter note. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $38 abv: 7.5% Price: $59 take the bright black-cherry and green herb flavors on this premium wine. Aeration brings the fruit to the fore- Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2010 Wehlener front, but hints of toasted wood and dill linger on the 89 Sonnenuhr­ Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Sa- GERMANY finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. vory tones of fennel, dried herb and petrol on the nose abv: 13.5% Price: $111 make the intensely fruity, almost tropical fruit flavors RED WINES on the palate a bit surprising. This is semisweet, with sharp, focused acidity that lingers on the finish. Wine- BADEN AHR sellers Ltd. —A.I. Huber 2009 Malterdinger Bienenberg R Jean Stodden 2008 Recher Herrenberg abv: 7.5% Price: $44 90 GG Spätburgunder Trocken (Baden). This 89 Pinot Noir (Ahr). Hints of caramel and vanilla, along with soft, silky tannins add oaky, woodsy warmth Ansgar Clüsserath 2010 Piesporter Gold- delicate cool-climate Pinot Noir is fresh and dainty, with to the brambly flavors of red raspberry and cherry. It’s tröpfchen Riesling Spätlese Feinherb ­ a red cherry flavor and plumes of rose petal and green 88 delicately structured, with bracing acidity that adds lev- (Mosel). Waves of smoke and crushed stone add a flower perfume. Sour plum acidity and fine-grained but ity and zip, highlighting the tart berry notes on the fin- dusty minerality to the honeyed pineapple and apple ci- penetrating tannins add brace and backbone. Valcken- ish. The Artisan Collection. —A.I. der notes on this wine. Just a shade off-dry, it’s round berg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $125 and a bit creamy on the palate, brightened by a bristle abv: 13.5% Price: $111 of acidity and a steely finish. Domaine Select Wine Es- Huber 2009 Alte Reben Spätburgunder­ Jean Stodden 2009 J Pinot Noir (Ahr). tates. —A.I. Trocken (Baden). Feminine and pretty, with hints of rose, violet abv: 10.5% Price: $40 89 Dark toast and burnt sug- 88 ar notes add a caramel-like warmth to the tart black- and dried lavender, Jean Stodden’s J has density and heft on the palate that’s unique. It’s concentrated in Eifel-Pfeiffer 2010 Estate Collection Ries- cherry, green leaf and violet petal notes on this under- ripe black-plum flavor, with a delicious, sweet-savory ling Spätlese (Mosel). A brisk spray of lemon stated Pinot Noir. It’s lean in style, with savory dried- 88 soy note that lingers on the finish. The Artisan Collec- perfumes the concentrated peach and flower flavors on herb and granite hints, with soft, wispy tannins that add tion. —A.I. this bright, racy Riesling. It’s full of sweet-tasting fruiti- structure on the midpalate. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $99 abv: 13.5% Price: $77

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 Jean Stodden 2010 Pinot Noir (Ahr). Pazo da Bouciña 2011 Albariño (Rías nose, there are indicators that it’s beginning to slip. The 87 While lithe on the nose, with understated red- 88 Baixas). Subtle and minerally on the nose, Artisan Collection. —M.S. fruit aromas, this shows a palate that’s nicely concentrat- this has bashful white-fruit aromas that are at the peak abv: 12.5% Price: $22 ed with crisp red-cherry and plum flavors, laced with an of freshness. It feels good, lively and complete, while invigorating shower of minerality and acidity. The Arti- flavors of apple, citrus and mineral are well balanced. Don Olegario 2011 Albariño (Rías san Collection. —A.I. Drink immediately. United Cellars, Inc. —M.S. 84 Baixas­). This smells stalky and past its prime, abv: 13% Price: $78 abv: 12.5% Price: $18 but it’s not stinky or maderized. The palate is fleshy in feel and oily in sensation, with bitter citrus flavors and Nelles 2009 1479N Ruber Spätburgunder Pazo Serantellos 2011 Albariño (Rías pithy notes. Neither vital nor fresh on the finish. Ko- 86 (Ahr). Firm tannins and notes of fresh dill and 88 Baixas). Minerally as well as lemony and zesty brand. —M.S. toasted coconut brood against the delicate backdrop of on the nose, this is nevertheless neither pushy nor in- abv: 13% Price: $18 the crisp notes of black-plums and violets. It’s an elegant tense. The palate offers good acidity and razor-sharp wine, but slight and understated in structure. Winesell- clarity, along with flavors of pineapple and apple. Alert Veiga da Princesa 2011 Albariño (Rías ers Ltd. —A.I. on the finish, this is a firm refresher. Colección Interna- 82 Baixas). This is about as strange and individ- abv: 13% Price: $28 cional del Vino. Best Buy. —M.S. ual as Albariño gets. The nose oozes odd cinnamon and abv: 12% Price: $12 resin aromas, which are abnormal for the variety and the Rías Baixas region. A flavor of spiced apple finishes WÜRTTEMBERG Marqués de Cáceres 2011 Deusa Nai with the same spice character. Funky is probably the Albariño­ (Rías Baixas). best word to describe this wine. The Artisan Collection. Grafen Neipperg 2007 Neipperger 87 This Rioja-based —M.S. Schlossberg Spätburgunder (Württem­ winery’s first effort with Albariño is perfectly good, with 88 aromas of peach and fleshy melon. The palate is tangy abv: 13% Price: $20 berg­). This Pinot Noir stands out in a flight of German and linear in feel, with citrus and green fruit flavors. reds for its slightly fleshy, concentrated fruit quality. Turns sharp and citric on the finish. Vineyard Brands. Bristling with acidity and a delicate layer of tannins, it’s —M.S. RUEDA delicately structured but elegantly fruity, with hints of abv: 12% Price: $16 dried cherry and plum accented by rose and potpourri Bodegas Antaño 2011 Alta Plata Verdejo notes. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. (Rueda). This is fresh and clean upfront, but Lusco 2011 Zios Albariño (Rías Baixas). 86 abv: 13% Price: $55 mild, with saline, mineral and melon aromas. It feels An apple cider aroma comes across dusty, slight- 86 round and mellow, with tame acidity and waxy flavors of ly maderized and heavy. This is a plump, wide Albariño Grafen Neipperg 2009 Spätburgunder­ peach, melon and citrus. Dry on the finish. ENYE Dis- with pithy citrus and white nectarine flavors. The finish Trocken (Württemberg). Notes of sweet tribution Group, LLC. —M.S. 85 features pithy, fleshy accents. Drink now. Opici Wines. baking spices and ripe, red cherries and plums seem abv: 13% Price: $17 —M.S. luxurious against the subtly herbaceous green-leaf and abv: 13% Price: $18 dusty mineral notes. The finish is fairly short, but it ends Blanco Nieva 2011 Sauvignon Blanc sweetly with a kiss of ripe red fruit. Valckenberg Inter- (Rueda). Pungent on the nose, this offers blasts Marqués de Vizhoja 2011 Señor da Folla 84 national, Inc. —A.I. of nettle, sweat, mineral and stone along with citrus. It Verde Albariño-Treixadura-Loureira (Rías abv: 13% Price: $28 86 feels fresh and forward, but the flavors of white fruit, Baixas). Wobbly aromas of vanilla wafer and tropical jalapeño and bitter pith don’t impress. Holds onto its fruit aren’t fully convincing. The palate, however, crackles bitterness on the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. PFALZ with a tangy lemon flavor, a vanilla infusion and a chalky- abv: 13% Price: $22 textured finish. Drink this blend of 70% Albariño and A. Christmann 2009 Spätburgunder­ 15% each Treixadura and Loureira right away. Republic Lo Nuevo 2011 Lunares Old Vines Trocken (Pfalz). A note of crushed granite 87 National Distributing Co. —M.S. Verdejo­ (Rueda). White fruit and flower aro- lends a shimmering minerality to the crisp black-plum 84 abv: 12.5% Price: $30 mas are friendly and simple. The palate feels soft and and berry flavors on this light-footed Pinot Noir. Fresh syrupy, and thus it’s not surprising that the wine’s fla- with a green herb note and bright, brisk acidity, this ValdoCea 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas). vors of sweet apple and pear taste honeyed and can- would pair with delicate fish and fowl dishes. Domaine This is a textbook example of a mineral-driven 86 died. Creamy on the finish, lacking the zest and cut that Select Wine Estates. —A.I. wine, with lemon and apple aromas along with touches Verdejo should have. Vintage Point. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $25 of hay and corn. It feels fresh, citrusy and tight, with abv: 14% Price: $10 citrus flavors leading to a pithy, tangy finish. Crisp and Fitz-Ritter 2009 Pinot Noir Trocken cleansing. Château & Domaines Imports. —M.S. Emina 2011 Verdejo (Rueda). This wine is (Pfalz). Herbaceous and green, with sprays of 87 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 gold in color, which indicates the heft and soft- brambly wood and flower, this is a delicately structured 83 ness that follow. The nose is honeyed and sweaty, while but vivacious red wine, with an enticing rose-petal aro- Marqués de Vizhoja 2011 Torre la Moreira the palate feels chunky and flat, with dusty, maderized ma. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. Albariño (Rías Baixas). The nose on this 85 flavors of papaya, passion fruit and banana. Pudgy- abv: 13% Price: $23 Albariño­ deals tropical fruit and vanilla scents. It feels feeling and tropical on the finish. Matarromera USA, citrusy, with modest flavors of papaya, peach and white Inc. —M.S. melon. After showing moderate vitality on the palate, abv: 13% Price: $10 SPAIN the finish softens up and slips into the netherworld. WHITE WINES Seems as though it’s beginning to fade. Republic Na- tional Distributing Co. —M.S. RIOJA abv: 12.5% Price: $18 RÍAS BAIXAS Finca Allende 2010 Allende (Rioja). Un- Condes de Albarei 2011 Albariño (Rías Orballo 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas). A bit 89 der control on the bouquet, this has pear and 89 Baixas). For full review see page 9. Best Buy. 85 stalky and corny smelling, this lacks the overall apple aromas. The wine feels round, juicy and pure, abv: 12% Price: $12 purity that can make Albariño great. It’s fresh enough, with oak, toast, lemon, apple and spice flavors. Barrel but standard in feel, with simple melon and peach fla- influence creates a peppery, dry and spicy finish, and vors. The finish lacks oomph, and combined with the

WineMag.com | 43 overall this blend of Viura and Malvasia is on the money. Xarel-lo and 20% Riesling. Steve Miles Selections. Castellví de la Marca NV Santa Monica Drink now. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. —M.S. 88 Brut (Cava). For full review see page 10. Best abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 Buy. abv: 11.5% Price: $10 Bodegas Palacio 2009 Cosme Palacio Albet I Noya 2011 Petit Albet Made with 88 1894 Blanco (Rioja). This wine is quiet on 84 Organic Grapes Chardonnay-Xarel-lo Dominio de la Vega 2009 Brut Pinot Noir the nose, with light touches of toasty resin and butter. (Penedès). This blend of 60% Xarel-lo and 40% Char- 88 (Cava). Full, yeasty and dry on the nose, this It’s Burgundian in feel, with plump, fleshy fruit that ac- donnay deals notes of petrol, yeast and powdered sugar has rustic, lightly baked red-fruit aromas. It feels round companies resiny, spicy flavors of white fruit and citrus. on the bouquet. It’s acidic and citric in feel, with lime, and easygoing, with dry nectarine and melon flavors Notes of wood and resin dominate the finish on this tart apple and other green-leaning flavors. Feels watery that lead nicely onto the subtle, fruity, fresh finish, with chunky, full-bodied Viura (with 8% Malvasia). HAB and tangy on the finish. Opici Wines. —M.S. spice flavors and lasting acidity. A.W. Direct. —M.S. North America. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $12 abv: 11.5% Price: $26 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Marques de Gelida 2010 Clot de Roure Marques de Gelida 2008 Brut Exclusive Sierra Cantabria 2010 Organza (Rioja). 84 Xarel-lo (Penedès). This small-production 87 Gran Reserva (Cava). The bouquet on this 87 Dusty apple and white peach aromas are basic (200 cases), barrel-aged Xarel-lo is well made but fails Cava is a bit gaseous, with mild lime and apple aromas. and clean. The palate offers bright acids, citrus-driv- to strike a chord. It’s yellow in color, with oily aromas of In the mouth, it’s foamy but fresh and lifted. Flavors of en fruit and whacks of oak-based cinnamon and resin, petrol, orange peel and wood resin. It feels sticky de- candied apple and mango finish in sweet fashion. Nice along with laser-like lemon notes. Mild on the finish, spite its supporting acids, and it tastes primarily of wood for Cava but with limits. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. with flavors of vanilla and oak spice. Jorge Ordoñez Se- and white pepper, with a lasting bitterness. Jorge Or- —M.S. lections. —M.S. doñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $16 abv: 13% Price: $28 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Muga NV Conde de Haro Brut (Cava). Bodegas Ontañón 2009 Vetiver Viura 87 This small-production Cava from Muga in Rioja 85 (Rioja). Vanilla, popcorn and baked apple aro- SPAIN is elegant, lemony and tight as a drum. Aromas of apple, mas create a good but one-dimensional nose. In the SPAKLING WINES lime and yeast set up an acidic palate with modest lem- mouth, things run tight and acidic, with a puckering, on and apple flavors and a linear, focused feel. Finishes lemony feel and austere flavors of dry apple and spice. with zest and kick. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. Finishes tangy and lemony. Cavatappi Distribuzione. CAVA abv: 13.5% Price: $25 —M.S. Gramona 2005 III Lustros Gran Reserva abv: 13% Price: $12 91 (Cava). Gramona is known for yeasty, complex Segura Viudas NV Aria Brut Pinot Noir sparklers, and this falls into that paradigm. The nose is 87 (Cava). Fresh, clean nectarine and cantaloupe Bodegas Escudero 2009 Becquer definitely yeasty, with apple and green melon aromas. aromas provide an inviting entrance, which is followed 81 (Rioja­). Almond candy and lacquer aromas It’s a bit soft for Cava, but that’s because it’s an ’05 that by a vital palate that has mild orange and nectarine fla- create a corny scent on the nose. This wine feels flabby rested on lees for years. Flavors of toasted bread and ap- vors which are slightly sweet and friendly. Smooth, light and soggy, with buttery oak and little to no fruit flavor. ple are long on complexity and short on fruit, but once and not at all aggressive on the finish. Freixenet USA. Finishes woody, with vanilla and spice. A blend of 60% again that’s what distinguishes Gramona from the mass- —M.S. Viura and 40% Chardonnay. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. es. Eric Solomon Selections. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $14 abv: 12.5% Price: $18 abv: 12% Price: $45 Sumarroca 2010 Brut Reserva (Cava). Llopart 2006 Leopardi Brut Nature 87 Wheat, lemon-lime and grass aromas accom- PENEDÈS 91 (Cava). For full review see page 6. Editors’ pany touches of yeast and scrambled egg. This is a cit- Marques de Gelida 2011 Old Vines Made Choice. rusy Cava, with acidic crispness and scour in support with Organically Grown Grapes Xarel- abv: 11.5% Price: $40 of green apple and orange flavors. Juicy and citric, with 87 just enough weight to register this as being better than lo­­ (Penedès). Simple, mild aromas of pear and ap- most. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. ple form a good opening. This feels plump and nice in Agustí Torelló Mata 2009 Rosat Brut abv: 11.5% Price: $22 the mouth, with applesauce and pithy orange flavors. 90 Rosé Trepat (Cava). There aren’t many Zesty, alert and fresh on the finish. A nice, quaffable rosé Cavas that stand out, but this is one of the few. It’s El Xamfrà NV Mercat Brut (Cava). Spiced white made from Xarel-lo, a grape most often used for bready and yeasty on the bouquet, with caramel and apple and dried cheese aromas are simultane- sparkling wines. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. Best Buy. baked fruit aromas. It feels slightly creamy and com- 84 ously honest and slightly crude. This Cava feels fluffy, —M.S. plex, with peach, nectarine and dry spice flavors. Long, foamy and average in composition, with lime, pickled abv: 12% Price: $12 elegant and mildly peppered on the finish. Made from the Trepat grape. Andrew Bell Selection. Editors’ melon and brine flavors. It maintains the pickled char- Albet I Noya 2011 XA Vinyes Velles Made Choice. —M.S. acter on the finish, which tastes slightly bitter. Valkyrie with Organic Grapes Xarel-lo (Penedès). abv: 11.5% Price: $36 Selections. —M.S. 85 abv: 11.5% Price: $12 Peach and citrus aromas are light, mellow and clean. This is fresh, lifted and slightly spritzy in feel, with cit- Llopart 2010 Brut Reserva (Cava). Lemon Louis Drescher NV Amor Special Cuvée rus, lime, green melon and apple flavors that finish crisp 89 and lime aromas are suggestive of Sprite, while (Cava). If this Cava weren’t so pickled in smell and clean. Opici Wines. —M.S. the body on this high-end Cava is fresh and snappy, with 84 and taste, it would rate better. As is, it opens with white abv: 13% Price: $13 sizzling acidity. The flavors come across crisp and fo- cused, emphasizing apple and dry spice. The finish is fruit, vanilla and brine aromas. Flavors of apple and Terraprima 2011 Massís del Garraf long, spicy and textured, with nothing rough or scour- pear maintain a prevalent, pickled edge, while the finish falls off in feel and clarity. Matadorvino LLC. —M.S. (Penedès). Flowery and easygoing on the ing. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. 85 abv: 11.5% Price: $15 bouquet, this is taught, lemony and wiry on the palate. abv: 11.5% Price: $31 Flavors of gooseberry, lime and apple feature cleans- Clos Mont-Blanc NV Proyecto Cu4tro ing acids and a persistent, citrusy tang. A blend of 80% 83 Bubbles Brut (Cava). This is light on the nose, with white fruit and citrus aromas. It feels lean,

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 tangy and wayward, with tart flavors of tangerine and It finishes mild, with some oaky residue. Axial Wines a whole, with hard tannins on the finish. Axial Wines vanilla. Finishes bitter and pithy. Luxe Vintages. —M.S. USA. Best Buy. —M.S. USA. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $17 abv: 13% Price: $8 abv: 14% Price: $22

Bodegas Medina NV Marqués de Badajoz­ Luna Beberide 2010 Mencía (Bierzo). The Viña Vilano 2011 Roble (Ribera del 81 Brut Reserva (Cava). This opens with a blast 85 opening aromas of reedy berries are gritty and 87 Duero­). Friendly aromas of blueberry, boysen- of diesel along with tarry asphalt. The mouthfeel isn’t crusty, while the palate is lively but feels snappy and berry, pastry and vanilla are clean and welcoming. This bad, but there isn’t much life to the wine. It tastes bit- raw. Flavors of cherry and plum are light, while the fin- is pure, racy and fresh in style, with a bright plum flavor. ter and oceanic, like horseradish and sea shell. Foamy ish is straightforward, with a citrusy kick. Not as full and An honest wine with quality fruit and balance. Spring and coarse on the finish. Rio Tinto Export Inc. —M.S. generous as past vintages. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. Glory Corporation. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 13.5% Price: $10

Federico Paternina 2009 Marques de Val- OTHER SPARKLING 86 paraiso Roble (Ribera del Duero). Ripe WINES Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez 2009 Tinto and stocky upfront, this features raisin, jammy berry and spice aromas. It feels blocky, full and rubbery on Pesquera (Ribera del Duero). Dense, fruity J. Garcia Carrion NV Opera Prima Spar- 91 the palate, with plum, blackberry and herb flavors that and rock-solid as Ribera goes, this has aromas of cas- kling Moscato (Spain). For full review see lose steam and turn more raisiny toward the finish. Aidil 84 sis and blackberry that are full and lusty. The palate is page 11. Best Buy. Wines & Liquor Inc. —M.S. thick and saturated, with rich black-fruit flavors, finish- abv: 7% Price: $8 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 ing long and potent. Drink now–2017. Classical Wines. —M.S. J. Garcia Carrion NV Opera Prima Pink Condado de Oriza 2011 Tempranillo abv: 14% Price: $36 83 Moscato (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). 85 (Ribera­ del Duero). This basic Tempranillo is Off-pink in color, this has floral, perfumed aromas that violet in color and shows rubbery aromas of black fruit Loess 2009 Ribera del Duero. Jammy berry suggest soap or bath gel. It feels like liquid candy on the and wild berry. It feels skittish on the palate, with grap- aromas are touched up by rich, ample amounts palate and tastes sugary, like cotton candy. CIV/USA. 91 ey flavors of plum and berry. Juicy, candied and a little of wood smoke and spice. It feels tight, tannic and al- —M.S. warm on the finish. Luneau USA Inc. —M.S. most tough, with leather, lemony oak and tobacco fla- abv: 7% Price: $8 abv: 13% Price: $11 vors accenting a core of blackberry. Robust, long and smoky on the finish. Drink 2015–2017. Enotrends LLC. Montevannos 2009 Roble (Ribera del Cellar Selection. —M.S. SPAIN Duero­). This is ripe and raisiny on the nose, abv: 14% Price: $35 85 RED WINES with marmalade, spice cake and ripe berry aromas. Bodegas Fuentespina 2009 Selección Oddly, this feels raw and abrasive, given the dark- leaning­ aromas. While it shows baked black-fruit fla- BIERZO (Ribera del Duero). Here’s a rich and oaky 90 vors, it’s tannic, sassy and snappy. Spain Wine Collec- Ribera del Duero that pours on the bacon, hickory Abad Dom Bueno 2009 Roble Mencía tion. —M.S. and earth aromas in addition to black fruit and licorice (Bierzo). This is dry, earthy and complex on abv: 14.5% Price: $15 91 notes. It feels huge and tannic but still well balanced, the nose, with smooth tannins, elegance and acidic lift with bacon, clove and baked black-fruit flavors. It holds to the palate. Flavors of fine oak, copious spice and Viña Vilano 2011 Tinto (Ribera del onto its barbecued character, ending with a fiery finish. complex berry are more than satisfying, while the finish Duero­). Grapey and citrusy on the nose, this Drink now–2016. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. 85 is long, dry and composed, featuring a note of cinna- has an herbal twinge. It feels bouncy and simple, with abv: 14% Price: $18 mon. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. juicy boysenberry and blueberry flavors that set up a abv: NA Price: $28 Finca Torremilanos 2009 Los Cantos (Ri- grapey, standard-feeling finish. Fresh, juicy and best for simple sipping. Spring Glory Corporation. Best Buy. bera del Duero). This is jammy and reduced Dominio de Tares 2009 Baltos Mencía 89 —M.S. throughout, especially on the nose, which offers a dense (Bierzo). Earthy and deep smelling, this abv: 13.5% Price: $9 90 blueberry aroma. Saturated and solid on the palate, it Mencía is full, layered and nicely textured on the pal- features ripe flavors of black plum, blackberry and cara- ate. As for flavors, look for equal parts dark fruit, toast, Prado Rey 2011 Tinto Joven Tempranil- mel. A potent, fruity, modern type of Tempranillo that’s smoke and herb. Things dry out and fade on the finish. lo (Ribera del Duero). This has a jumpy and long on fruit and short on complexity. Grapes of Spain. 84 Opici Wines. —M.S. piquant bouquet, with notes of plum and raspberry. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 It feels pinched and narrow but lively, with mild ber- abv: 14% Price: $23 ry, cherry and leather flavors. Holds onto that leathery El Agosto 2010 Mencía (Bierzo). A bit Finca Torremilanos 2009 Torremilanos characteristic on what amounts to a slightly bitter tast- earthy and horsey on the nose, this is neverthe- ing finish. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. 90 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). Roasted and less attractive on the bouquet, with sandalwood, spice 88 abv: 14.5% Price: $10 bullish, this has a rustic, smoky bouquet of earthy plum and black fruit aromas. The mouthfeel registers as be- and savory berry. It is both plump and racy on the pal- ing thick and chewy, while the flavor profile includes Viña Mayor 2009 Secreto Vendimia ate, with thick berry flavors that are touched up by ba- toasty, chocolaty black-fruit flavors, with a finish that has Seleccionada­ (Ribera del Duero). Rough con, spice and cocoa. It has a youthful mouthfeel that 84 weight and a vanilla note. Drink now–2016. The Artisan black-cherry and plum aromas are full and fruity. The may calm down in a year or two. Drink now–2015. Collection. —M.S. palate is choppy, with prickly acidity leading to dry, hol- Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 low black-plum flavors. The wine shows color and size, abv: 14% Price: $30 with citrusy acid and astringency. Habarcelo North Vinos de Arganza 2010 La Mano Roble Zumaya 2009 Crianza (Ribera del Duero).­ America. —M.S. Mencía (Bierzo). La Mano smells dry and abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 87 A much better wine than in previous years, this spicy, with modest but present oak aromas and vanilla- 88 opens with berry and vanilla aromas that lead to a full, tinged plum and berry scents. It’s angular in feel, but Matarromera 2011 Melior (Ribera del vigorous yet choppy-feeling palate, with roasted berry, the flavors of oak-based black fruit and raspberry work. Duero­). Mulchy-smelling and short on fresh- hickory and vanilla flavors. More woody than fruity as 82 ness, with leather and compost aromas, this feels edgy

WineMag.com | 45 and gritty, with baked, earthy berry flavors that fail the Bodegas Bilbainas 2006 Viña Pomal Finishes lively but rough, with a mint note and grabby freshness test. The wine remains leathery and turns bit- 89 Reserva (Rioja). For full review see page 8. tannins. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. ter on the finish. Matarromera USA, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $21 abv: 13% Price: $10 abv: 14% Price: $15 Marqués de Riscal 2006 Reserva (Rioja). El Circulo 2011 Tempranillo (Rioja). This 89 For full review see page 8. 83 is sharp on the nose, which indicates an un- RIOJA abv: 14% Price: $17 promising future. The palate is tight and high in acidity, with sour plum and tart berry flavors. Short on the fin- Beronia 2005 Gran Reserva (Rioja). This Viña Cerrada 2005 Gran Reserva (Rioja). ish. Luneau USA Inc. —M.S. wine is absolutely what fans of traditional Rioja 93 Mild and floral on the bouquet, this has touches abv: 13% Price: $9 should be on the lookout for. It’s smooth, elegant and 89 of citrus and gritty cherry. The palate feels fresh, lively complex on the bouquet, the perfect introduction to a and healthy, with a baked, spicy flavor along with a bri- Vallobera 2010 Pago Malarina (Rioja). firm yet classy palate, with berry, plum, spice, tobacco ary berry note. Solid but mild on the finish; drink now– Berry aromas accompany horse and leather and vanilla flavors. Dry, toasty and just right on the fin- 82 2015. Mindeza Trading Inc. —M.S. notes. This wine smacks down hard on the palate, show- ish. Drink now–2020. San Francisco Wine Exchange. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 ing spunky flavors of red fruit and spice. Peppery, dry Editors’ Choice. —M.S. and wiry as a whole. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $33 Taron 2004 Reserva (Rioja). Soft and fleshy abv: 13.5% Price: $12 smelling, with a raisiny aroma, this feels wide, Beronia 2005 Selección 198 Barricas 88 grabby and choppy, with rich, sweet flavors of molas- Bodegas del Mundo 2010 Valdemoreda (Rioja). This textbook example of classic Rio- 93 ses, raisin, licorice and tobacco. It finishes forward, (Rioja). Raisin and funky leather are the prime ja is light yet strong, with tobacco, earth and spice aro- 80 with some heat, and overall the wine is lusty but seems aromas on this marginal Tempranillo. Expect a dried- mas accenting dry raspberry and plum scents. It feels a touch overripe. Drink now. Amphora Wine Imports. out, tart and herbal wine, with a raisiny sweetness. CIV/ juicy and agile, with popping acidity and crisp flavors of —M.S. USA. —M.S. red plum and cherry. Like its gran reserva cousin from abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 13% Price: $8 2005, this finishes dry and can stand up to additional ag- ing. Drink 2014–2025. San Francisco Wine Exchange. Bodegas Valdemar 2011 Tempranillo Bodegas Franco-Españolas 2010 Royal Cellar Selection. —M.S. (Rioja). For full review see page 10. Best Buy. Tempranillo (Rioja). Mulchy and gaseous on abv: 14% Price: $80 87 80 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 the nose, this subsequently turns scouring and acidic on the palate, with a leafy, dry red-plum flavor. Herbal, Muga 2006 Selección Especial (Rioja). Castillo Labastida 2006 Reserva (Rioja). dry and not very fruity overall. Vision Wine & Spirits. For full review see page 5. 92 Spunky and mildly abrasive on the nose, this has —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $43 87 some punch and character. It feels fresh, lean and nar- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 row, with a traditional Rioja mix of herb-influenced red- Viñedos de Paganos 2005 El Puntido fruit and dry spice notes. The mild finish offers tobacco Casa de la Reina 2010 Tempranillo Gran Reserva (Rioja). Earthy, roasted aro- 92 and raspberry flavors. Winebow. —M.S. (Rioja­). This is lean, crisp, acidic and down- mas of dry berry and leathery spice are alluring. The 80 abv: 14% Price: $23 right shrill at points. Flavors of tart raspberry and plum wine feels mature but forward, with a mild, resiny oak skin end in a whirl of citrusy acids. Vision Wine & Spir- note driving the roasted red-berry, tobacco, spice and Burgo Viejo 2011 Tinto (Rioja). This Rio- its. —M.S. lemon flavors. It feels smooth and plush on the finish, 86 ja opens with a jumpy, lively, candied red-fruit abv: 13.5% Price: $10 with structure and spine. Drink now–2018. Jorge Or- aroma. It feels solid, rubbery and stout, with dark fruit doñez Selections. —M.S. flavors that are accented by mild resin and butter notes. abv: 14% Price: $57 Feels a little sticky on the finish, with firm tannins. -Ky CAMPO DE BORJA sela Père et Fils. Best Buy. —M.S. Baron De Ley 2005 Gran Reserva (Rioja). Pagos del Moncayo 2009 Syrah (Cam- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 91 For full review see page 6. 94 po de Borja). This Syrah from the abv: 13.5% Price: $45 land of Garnacha is downright superb, and for $30 it Sonsierra 2011 Rioja. Fresh berry aromas qualifies as an outstanding value. Black cherry and ripe are simple and attractive. This wine is pretty El Coto 2005 Real Reserva (Rioja). This 86 berry aromas are big and inviting, while the palate is good in feel and structure, with roundness and tannic smells a touch rubbery on the nose, but mostly thick, layered and still racy due to fine acidity. Flavors 91 bite. Flavors of wild berry, plum and cherry turn dark it is an excellent high-end Rioja with leather, tobacco of blackberry, chocolate, vanilla and baking spice run on the back palate, with tightness and dark flavors defin- and red fruit aromas. The wine shows structure and so- for miles on the generous finish. Drink now–2016. Axial ing the finish. Spain Wine Collection.Best Buy. —M.S. lidity on the tongue, with dry, spicy red-berry flavors Wines USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10 matched by a note of tobacco. Tight, dry and healthy- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 feeling on the finish. Drink now–2020. Frederick Wild- Bodegas Ontañón 2004 Reserva Alto Moncayo 2009 Aquilon Garnacha man & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. Tempranillo­ Graciano (Rioja). The nose abv: 14% Price: $50 85 (Campo de Borja). For full review see page 4. deals rhubarb and green bean notes, and the palate 92 abv: 16% Price: $155 is mildly astringent. The flavor profile offers a mix of Covila 2005 II Reserva (Rioja). This is light sweet berry flavors like blueberry, and then mint and and dusty upfront, with solid cherry and rasp- Alto Moncayo 2009 Garnacha (Campo de 90 green herb notes surface. Licorice and heat can be berry aromas. Smooth, silky and somewhat creamy in Borja). For full review see page 6. found on the finish. Cavatappi Distribuzione. —M.S. 91 feel, it features a mixture of fresh tomato, plum and abv: 16% Price: $45 abv: 13% Price: $23 spice flavors. Snappy and perfectly clean, with light to Alto Moncayo 2009 Veraton Garnacha medium intensity. Drink now. Scoperta Importing Co. Vallobera 2011 Spanish Demon (Rioja). (Campo de Borja). For full review see page 7. Inc. —M.S. Hard berry and plum aromas turn minty and 90 abv: 14% Price: $22 84 abv: 15.5% Price: $25 grassy with airing. It feels tough and tannic, but fresh, with mild herb-tinged flavors of red berry and red plum. Terrazas del Moncayo 2009 Garnacha 89 (Campo de Borja). Raisin and kirsch aro-

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 mas are soft and rich, settling on strawberry and spice palate folds together flavors of baked fruit, berry, mo- in style; drink now–2018. Fewer than 2,400 bottles pro- notes. The palate is lifted by firm acidity and solid tan- cha and tobacco. It doesn’t expand much on the finish, duced. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. nins, while the wine’s core flavors of raspberry, plum but by then the story has been told. MHW, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $33 and herb serve it well. It finishes warm and sweet tast- abv: 14% Price: $25 ing, with licorice and molasses flavors that are tempered Mano A Mano 2010 Tempranillo (Vino de by a baking spice note. The Artisan Collection. —M.S. François Lurton 2009 El Albar Lurton 89 la Tierra de Castilla). Dark, oaky and smoky abv: 15% Price: $70 88 Barricas Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra for a value wine, this has leather and blackberry aro- de Castilla y León). Big and forward on the bouquet, mas. It feels full, chewy and substantive, with dark ber- Coto de Hayas 2009 Fagus Selección Es- this has loud, fiery black-cherry and berry aromas. Like ry, molasses and mocha notes. Smooth and dense on the 83 pecial Garnacha (Campo de Borja). This most Lurton wines of Spanish origin, El Albar is chewy finish, with leftover blackberry, coffee and chocolate boasts a Christmas spice note on top of an earthy, baked and ripe, with a syrupy feel and flavors of blackberry, touches. Aviva Vino. Best Buy. —M.S. berry aroma. It feels grabby, flat and gummy, with syr- stewed plum and spice cake. The finish is chocolaty, abv: 14.5% Price: $11 upy berry flavors along with a load of odd spices. As a beefy and concentrated. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. whole, this is strangely oaked and doesn’t show Garna- abv: 14.5% Price: $24 Mano A Mano 2010 Manon Roble cha in its best light. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —M.S. 88 Tempranillo­ (Vino de la Tierra de Castil- abv: 13.5% Price: $21 Abadia Retuerta 2009 Selección Especial­ la). This Tempranillo plays outside its price league, with 87 (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). spicy, compact aromas of prune and char. The mouth- From the Sardon de Duero region that borders Ribera­ feel is full and ripe, while flavors of blackberry, baking EMPORDÀ del Duero, this wine is big, minty and raisiny on the spice and pepper set up a generous, solid finish.Aviva Best Buy. Celler Arché Pagès 2006 Cartesius nose, with chocolate and leather aromas. It feels grab- Vino. —M.S. by and saturated, with prune, raisin and licorice notes abv: 14% Price: $8 (Empordà­). After a gaseous, rubbery-smelling 90 that end in a bowl of prune purée. Very chunky and full start, this Catalonian blend falls into place. The palate bodied­, this is a blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet and Altozano 2010 Finca Constancia is ripped in feel, showing impressive drive and power. Syrah. Europvin. —M.S. Tempranillo­ (Vino de la Tierra de Castil- Flavors of cola, toast, chocolate, prune and blackberry 84 abv: 14% Price: $30 la). This is mildly herbal and dilute on the nose, but are generous, while the finish is dense and chocolaty, not unappealing. It feels medium in body, with a timid with a tobacco accent. Drink now–2015. Luxe Vintages. Lo Nuevo 2009 Tanto Monta Old Vine structure and simple red-berry flavors that taste slightly —M.S. Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla sweet. Fresh and mild as a whole. San Francisco Wine abv: 14.5% Price: $27 85 y León). This wine starts with baked fruit and mus- Exchange. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Celler Arché Pagès 2007 Bonfill tard aromas. The mouthfeel is pinched in the middle but syrupy and sticky as a whole, while the flavor profile (Empordà­). This wine smells baked and rasiny, 87 deals notes of cured meat, bacon, resiny oak, ripe berry Secua 2008 Cabernet-Syrah (Vino de and the bouquet brings charcoal and toast notes into and baked cassis. Vintage Point. —M.S. la Tierra de Castilla). This Cabernet-Syrah­ play. It feels mature and ready, with raisin, molasses, 83 abv: 15% Price: $15 blend has ripeness issues. It’s fairly green and ashy in chocolate and rooty berry flavors. Ripe and ready on the scent, and on the palate the tannins seem rather hard finish. The blend is Garnacha, and Cabernet Bodega Melgarajo 2010 Valdeleña Tinto and underdeveloped. Flavors run toward herb-tinged Sauvignon. Drink now. Luxe Vintages. —M.S. Roble Prieto Picudo (Vino de la Tierra de black fruit and carob, while the finish is scratchy and a abv: 15% Price: $45 83 Castilla y León). Cherry and plum aromas are basic bit green in flavor. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $37 Celler Arché Pagès 2006 Sàtirs Negre and candied, while the palate on this Prieto Picudo- based wine is perky and acidic. The flavors run dilute (Empordà). This wine is messy on the nose, 85 and herbal, with cherry pie and tart raspberry notes. where compost, gas and animal aromas blend with jam- Lingering acidity makes the finish both fresh and sharp. OTHER RED WINES my berry scents. It feels tannic and clampy, with baked Enotrends LLC. —M.S. and rooty berry flavors. The wine remains roasted in Bodegas 1898 2007 Ramón Roqu- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 style and rooty on the finish. Luxe Vintages. —M.S. 88 eta Reserva Tempranillo-Cabernet abv: 14% Price: $19 Sauvignon­ (Catalunya). This is an exotic and unusu- Bodega Melgarajo 2010 Valdeleña Tinto al wine, with mint, dry spice and mild red-fruit aromas. Joven Prieto Picudo (Vino de la Tierra 82 Light in body, it has snappy, juicy acids pushing raspber- de Castilla y León). Briny, funky and light on the TIERRA DE CASTILLA Y ry and red plum flavors. For Old World fans, this is the nose, this has a hint of cranberry. It feels crisp and ticket; it’s lean and tangy, with leather and vanilla notes LEÓN juicy, but tastes sour, with acid-driven red-fruit flavors on the finish. First Tier Imports. —M.S. that are mixed with herbal, peppery accents. Very tight Abadia Retuerta 2009 Pago Garduña abv: 13.5% Price: $15 90 Syrah ­ (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y and modest on the finish. Prieto Picudo is the grape. León). You had better love big, burly, meaty reds if Enotrends LLC. —M.S. Bodegas 1898 2007 Campo Lin- you’re going to dig this Syrah, which is ultraripe and abv: 12.5% Price: $15 87 do Reserva Old Wine Tempranil- lush. The raisiny aroma is almost heavy, while the pal- lo-Cabernet Sauvignon­ (Catalunya). Earthy ate is big but not excessively so. Baked, ripe flavors of TIERRA DE CASTILLA on the nose, this blend features hints of spear- black fruit and chocolaty oak lead to a short, ox-like fin- mint, leather, toast and light berry. It feels ish. Drink now–2015. Europvin. —M.S. Bodegas Navarro López 2009 Viña lean and quick as lightning, with flashy acids. Flavors abv: 14.5% Price: $110 89 Trebolar­ (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). of dry berry, tobacco and earth accompany vanilla and This is a throwback wine with complex aromas, intrigu- butter twists. The finish is fresh and old school. Atlas Marqués de la Concordia 2009 Hacienda ing flavors and a light-to-medium body. The blend is Imports. —M.S. 90 Zorita Natural Reserve Unamuno Vine- Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, and the abv: 13.5% Price: $20 yard Syrah (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). end product offers cinnamon, orange peel and tea aro- What makes this varietal Syrah score high is not that mas in front of an acid-rich palate, with spiced cranber- Bodegas Artazu 2008 Santa Cruz de it’s over the top, superlush or heavily oaked, but that ry, dried fruit and citrus flavors. Elegant and feminine 86 Artazu­ Garnacha (Navarra). This Navarran­ it’s balanced to a tee. Black cherry, blackberry and spice Garnacha is more interesting, offering lemony, floral aromas are more solid than they are special, while the aromas that are red in nature and not very stout. The

WineMag.com | 47 palate sizzles with racy acidity, while the flavor profile Sierra Cantabria 2011 Rosé (Rioja). This ry flavor. It is concentrated, complete and softly tannic, is pure and tangy, with cranberry and red plum notes. 84 wine looks clear, with aromas of chewing gum, suggesting medium-term aging. Premium Port Wines, A zesty style of Grenache. Folio Fine Wine Partners. watermelon and cherry. The palate is regular and nebu- Inc. —R.V. —M.S. lous in feel, while flavors of melon and peach are slightly abv: NA Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $47 oxidized and pithy. A blend of 50% Tempranillo with 30% Garnacha­ and 20% Viura. Jorge Ordoñez Selec- Quinta do Crasto 2010 Vintage Port. Bet- Genium Celler 2008 Poboleda (Priorat). tions. —M.S. 91 ter known for its table wines, Quinta do Crasto 86 Wild berry, cola, raisin and spice aromas are abv: 13% Price: $12 still retains an important Port program. This big, dry good, but the palate is only average in feel for a Priorat, and smoky effort fully justifies that. It is firmly struc- with a lean fruit content, snappy acidity and little cush- Taron 2011 Rosé (Rioja). This has an oxi- tured and tannic, with a strong black-pepper character ion for the wine’s plum, berry, tomato and herb flavors. 83 dized note on the nose. It has citrusy acidity and that is balanced by the solid structure and concentra- This finishes long, minty and mildly herbal. Grapes of tastes like a mix of fino Sherry and peach.The finish is tion. Age over many years. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Spain. —M.S. chalky in feel. Tasted twice. Amphora Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $46 —M.S. abv: NA Price: $78 abv: 12.5% Price: $11 Campos de Luz 2008 Crianza Garnacha Quinta do Vesuvio 2010 Vintage Port. This 84 (Cariñena). Raisiny and jammy on the bou- Bodegas Faustino 2011 Faustino VII Tem- 91 is intensely perfumed, with soft tannins that are quet, this wine becomes vital in the mouth, with fresh 82 pranillo Rosé (Rioja). Fishy on the nose, this followed by a dry, concentrated character. From the acidity supporting the raspberry and red plum flavors. wine has flabby red-fruit aromas that come across rustic iconic Vesúvio Vineyard, where wines for vintage pro- The raisiny resurfaces on the finish, with acidic bite. and raw. It feels light, but also oily and greasy, with very duction are still foot trodden, this has a ripe feel, with Vinergia Spanish Wines. —M.S. little fruit character to get excited about. Palm Bay In- tannins that are suitable for medium-term aging. Pre- abv: 14% Price: $14 ternational. —M.S. mium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10 abv: NA Price: $65 Pinord 2008 Clos del Mas (Priorat). 84 Spearmint chewing gum, cassis and raisin aro- Warre’s 2010 Quinta da Cavadinha Vin- mas are friendly. However, on the palate this wine rings PORTUGAL 91 tage Port. With firm and structured tannins, hollow, with little structure and hardly any midpalate. the wine has strong potential. It also has an element of The flavors of candied red fruits are basic, while the fin- 2010 VINTAGE PORT blackberry juice that provides ripe fruit as well as acid- ish shows residual raspberry flavor and no complexity. ity. There is a cool feel to this wine, with a dry finish. Republic National Distributing Co. —M.S. Duorum 2010 Quinta do Castelo Melhor Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 93 Vintage Port. With firm, smoky tannins and a abv: NA Price: $88 dark bitter-cherry flavor, this is a dense wine. It is fully Castillo de Monséran 2008 Old Vine ripe and rich, with a firm kick at the back. Tough and Dow’s 2010 Quinta Senhora da Ribeira 82 Garnacha­ (Cariñena). This is dry, herbal and age worthy, it expresses the schist soil of the region. 90 Vintage Port. This is a perfumed wine with leathery on the nose. On the palate, this feels snappy Winebow. —R.V. fine acidity. The tannins are soft, accompanied by black and crisp, with flavors of peppery red fruits that are abv: NA Price: $75 cherry and ripe berry notes, making this a sweet, rich leafy, herbal and almost green. Turns hotter and sharper style. The Quinta Senhora de Ribeira is on the north the longer it breathes. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. Vallegre 2010 Quinta da Vista Alegre Vin- bank of the Douro, facing Quinta do Vesúvio on the abv: 13.5% Price: $17 93 tage Port. This is ripe and finely balanced, south bank. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. with integrated tannins and rich fruit. Full of texture, abv: NA Price: $60 this single quinta wine is from the Vista Alegre Vine- ROSÉS yard in the heart of Pinhão. It’s a complex effort, with Burmester 2010 Quinta de Arnozelo Vin- great potential. K&L Wine Merchants. Cellar Selec- tage Port. This is a firm and powerful wine, Muga 2011 Rosé (Rioja). This is very light 89 tion. —R.V. chunky and dense. It has a solid edge of tannins, dark in color, with lightweight aromas of peach and 88 abv: NA Price: $NA and dense, resulting in a mineral-structured wine that citrus. It feels crisp and angular, with fine acidity that is both dry and likely to age for many years. Sogevinus creates supreme freshness on the tongue. Flavors of W. & J. Graham’s 2010 Quinta dos Mal- Fine Wines USA. —R.V. peach and nectarine are spunky, ending like the toot of 93 vedos Vintage Port. Fine and ripe, this is a abv: NA Price: $70 a whistle. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. sweet—while also complex—wine from Graham’s flag- abv: 13% Price: $12 ship estate. Its tannins lead easily to ripe flavors of black Cálem 2010 Vintage Port. Dense in color, plum and berry juice, resulting in a wine that is firm, full Bodegas Ontañón 2011 Vetiver Rosado 89 this firm wine has a rich black-fruit character. bodied, fruity and generous. It needs to age. Premium There is a strong element of acidity, which brings out Tempranillo (Rioja). Although this is mild 86 Port Wines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. the natural fruitiness of the wine. At the same time, on the nose, almost to the point of neutrality, there’s a abv: NA Price: $58 there is enough dense texture to promise aging. Sogevi- speck of red fruit to be found with airing. It feels lively nus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. and a bit acidic, with juicy, jumpy flavors of red plum Dow’s 2010 Quinta do Bomfim Vintage abv: NA Price: $60 and cherry. Cavatappi Distribuzione. —M.S. Port. A firm and structured wine, this shows abv: 13% Price: $13 92 complex tannins as well as contrasting acidity. It feels Quinta do Estanho 2010 Vintage Port. complete, the tannins supporting red cherry and spice This has dominating dark tannins, laying over Ilurce 2011 Rosado (Rioja). Dusty cherry 88 flavors. It is probably not for long-term aging but will sweet, perfumed fruit. It is ripe and full bodied, likely and raspberry aromas taste candied and friend- 86 start to taste delicious in 6–7 years. Premium Port to develop over the next few years. It’s not yet showing ly. The palate on this reddish-colored wine is round and Wines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. its delicious side, so it does need aging. Wine Enter- plump, with good texture. It tastes sweet but clean, with abv: NA Price: $48 prises LLC. —R.V. flavors of strawberry, cherry and pepper on the finish. abv: NA Price: $NA 80% Garnacha and 20% Graciano. Jorge Ordoñez Se- Cockburn’s 2010 Quinta dos Canais Vin- lections. Best Buy. —M.S. tage Port. On the north bank of the river, the Rozes 2010 Vintage Port. This is big, ripe abv: 13.5% Price: $10 91 remote Quinta dos Canais has produced a ripe, richly 88 and fruity, with noticeable black- and red-cher- textured, perfumed wine that’s packed with sweet ber-

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 ry notes. It has balanced tannins and, though relatively this young stage, the fruit seems extracted, but this will process, the flavors are of rich, ripe fruits. For medium- dry in character, is likely to develop quickly. —R.V. pass as the weight of the dense damson skin and tan- term aging. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA nic character shines through. Complex and finally ripe. abv: NA Price: $70 Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Quevedo 2010 Vintage Port. An awkward abv: NA Price: $80 Messias 2009 Quinta do Cachão Vintage 87 geranium aroma mars this firm and concentrat- 89 Port. This perfumed, sweet and fruity wine is ed wine. It’s dry and tannic, with a solid edge akin to Mário Braga 2009 Quinta do Mourão São from Messias’s­ flagship vineyard in São João da Pesquei- black currant skin. The fruit is well hidden at this stage. 93 Leonardo Vintage Port. Floral, ripe and fra- ra, high above the southern bank of the Douro. The tan- P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. grant, this is a stand-out from a new entrant on the vin- nins melt into the black plum flavor. This is rich, sweet abv: NA Price: $70 tage Port scene. The forward blackberry flavor is full of and softly textured, and it will be delicious in a year or sweet tannins. At the same time, the structure, with its two. Luiz’s Grocery And Liquors. —R.V. Kopke 2010 Quinta de São Luiz Vintage core of dense dryness, does promise good aging. This abv: NA Price: $NA 86 Port. Curiously perfumed and soft in charac- is concentrated and full of potential. Schlossadler Inc. ter, this seems already drinkable. It has a geranium fra- Cellar Selection. —R.V. Messias 2009 Vintage Port. Bringing out grance, followed by a strawberry flavor, creating the im- abv: NA Price: $NA 89 the ripe fruits of the vintage, this is soft, rich pression of a light wine. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. and sweet in character. Acidity accompanies the flavors —R.V. Quinta do Passadouro 2009 Vintage of red berry and red cherry. From Quinta do Cachão abv: NA Price: $70 93 Port. This is opulent, with a perfumed charac- and other Messias ­vineyards, this is soft and developing ter. It has ripe tannins, which add to the wine’s gener- quickly. Luiz’s Grocery And Liquors. —R.V. Quinta Seara d’Ordens 2010 Vintage ous nature. The dry edge that comes from the core pro- abv: NA Price: $NA 86 Port. This is ripe and soft, though there are tan- vides a solid, structured side to this age-worthy effort. nins at the back of the palate. The wine shows pepper, Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Rozes 2009 Vintage Port. This is a dry wine black currant and bitter cherry notes. Not for long-term abv: NA Price: $80 89 still full of ripe fruit. It has a rich texture, tast- aging. Luso Imports. —R.V. ing floral and fragrant. The result is a generous, black- abv: NA Price: $NA Quinta do Tedo 2009 Vintage Port. Vin- fruited wine for short-term aging. —R.V. 93 cent Bouchard’s Quinta do Tedo has produced abv: NA Price: $NA an outstanding 2009. It’s in the soft, rich and ripe style 2009 VINTAGE PORT of the year; its flavors of black plum juice and sweet ber- Barros 2009 Vintage Port. This is initially Niepoort 2009 Bioma Vinha Velha Vin- ry have a rounded character, with underlying structure 88 soft, then it broadens out with caramel and ripe plum flavors. Dark cherry sweetens the core of acidity tage Port. The concentration of old vines that promises good aging. Premier Wine & Spirits. Cel- 96 and firm tannins. The wine has good potential. Sogevi- is very evident in this wine, which uses fruit that was lar Selection. —R.V. nus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. sourced from a portion of old vines in Niepoort’s Quin- abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $65 ta da Pisca. There is a touch of bitter cherry, as well Cockburn’s 2009 Quinta dos Canais as a firm, dense core that shows a fine balance of acid- Vintage Port. A smooth, rich, almost toffee- C. da Silva 2009 Dalva Vintage Port. This ity. This is powerful, full-bodied and packed with dark 92 flavored­ wine, this has ripe black-plum and raisin notes, ripe and juicy wine has good structure. It com- fruit—for long-term aging. Martine’s Wines. Cellar Se- 88 with hints of pepper and dark chocolate. From what has bines the rich sweetness of the year with rich tannins lection. —R.V. and red cherry. For medium-term aging. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $100 become Cockburn’s flagship quinta, this is a delicious wine for medium-term aging. Premium Port Wines, abv: NA Price: $NA Quinta Vale Dona Maria 2009 Vintage Inc. —R.V. Royal Oporto 2009 Vintage Port. A ripe Port. This ripe and full-bodied wine from Cris- abv: NA Price: $50 95 wine from the Real Companhia Velha, this tiano van Zeller is powerfully concentrated, showing all 88 Romariz 2009 Vintage Port. This firm, per- shows a rich character, its tannins ripe and generous. the right weight while also providing generous fruiti- fumed, dry wine has concentrated spice and rai- It’s not a huge wine, but it does show a fine, full-bodied ness. Rich black fruits and sweet tannins are layered 92 sin flavors. Owned by the group that also owns Taylor flavor of sweet plum. The final feeling is smooth and with acidity. This is a wine for long-term aging. Adven- Fladgate and Fonseca, Romariz­ continues to forge its opulent. Admiral Imports. —R.V. tures In Wine. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $60 abv: NA Price: $57 own identity. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA Vallegre 2009 Vista Alegre Vintage Port. Wine & Soul 2009 Pintas Vintage Port. Kopke 2009 Quinta de São Luiz Vintage This is a perfumed wine, showing the Touriga This rich and juicy wine from the Pinhão Valley 88 94 Port. This is a big, fruity wine, packed with Nacional­ in the blend. Swathes of ripe, sweet fruit re- has enormous potential, as shown by its strong, tannic 90 sweet, ripe fruit. There is a fine mineral texture to bal- sult in a generous wine, only hinting at a firm structure. character and firm structure. The foot-trodden grapes ance this richness, which gives it a severe edge and Probably for drinking young. K&L Wine Merchants. lend great flavor intensity, fine concentration and a note promises aging. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. —R.V. of blackberry juice. It will age well. Winebow. Cellar abv: NA Price: $75 abv: NA Price: $NA Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $80 Quinta do Tedo 2009 Savedra Vintage Burmester 2009 Quinta de Arnozelo Vin- Port. tage Port. This wine’s red berry flavor and soft Dow’s 2009 Quinta do Bomfim Vintage 90 This is a ripely tannic wine, made from 87 fruit that was sourced from a parcel of more than structure suggest that it will age quickly. However, for Port. This opulent wine is very ripe. From 93 40-year-old vines. While it is certainly fruity, rounded now it offers a ripe texture and a juicy character. Sogevi- Dow’s flagship vineyard, it is a sweeter wine than many and warm, it has tannins as well. It’s a velvety wine that nus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. of its kind, showing a caramel note and soft tannins. retains its structure. Age for the medium term. Premier abv: NA Price: $75 Within all of its sweet fruit is a firm, dry, structured core. Wine & Spirits. —R.V. Premium Port Wines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA Delaforce 2009 Vintage Port. The first abv: NA Price: $48 87 vintage under Delaforce’s new owners, Real Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Car- Companhia­ Velha, this has a sweet surface, with a per- Duorum 2009 Vintage Port. A firm and very mo 2009 Vintage Port. While there are me- structured wine, this is for long-term aging. At 90 93 dicinal aromas, suggesting some new wood in the aging

WineMag.com | 49 fumed blackberry flavor. There is a touch of spice and a sis, tobacco and cedar mark the nose and palate of this Penfolds 2007 St. Henri Shiraz (South final geranium accent. Signature Imports. —R.V. textbook Cabernet. It’s round in the mouth, with a long, 93 Australia­). The 2007 St. Henri remains brood- abv: NA Price: $NA richly textured finish that adds nuances of cocoa and ingly dark in both color and flavor profile. Blackberry dried herb. Like its close cousin from the Hickinbo- and plum notes are accented by roasted meat, leather Quinta do Vallado 2009 Vallado Adelaide tham Vineyard­, it can be drunk now–2025. E & J Gallo. and mocha in this full-bodied, densely packed wine. 87 Vintage­ Port. Floral aromas offer an entic- —J.C. The tannins are a bit chewy right now, but the finish ing entry to this soft wine that has the weight of a table abv: 14.5% Price: $45 is long and reveals promising glimmers of fruit that wine. Its flavor of juicy blackberry precedes a fragrant, portend well for aging. Drink 2018–2025 and beyond. open finish. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. Penfolds 2008 Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvi- Treasury Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: NA Price: $100 92 gnon (South Australia). In so-called Pen- abv: 14.5% Price: $65 folds years, when the stars align for the company, smart Rozes 2009 Quinta do Grifo Port. This is money is on the Bin series of wines like this Bin 407 Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier 2007 Lieu 87 dry, with a mineral-driven, almost cool charac- Cabernet. It comes close to the luxury Bin 707 Caber- 92 Dit Malakoff Shiraz (Pyrenees). For full re- ter, atypical of the vintage. The wine is bracketed with net in terms of quality, but at a much lower price, boast- view see page 5. Editors’ Choice. tannins, which provides a firm character. Hints of rich- ing ample body and velvety tannins. Hints of cedar, abv: 14.5% Price: $30 ness appear along with acidity on the finish. —R.V. mint and mocha accent concentrated cassis and plum abv: NA Price: $NA flavors. Drink now–2018. Treasury Wine Estates. Edi- Kilikanoon 2008 Covenant Shiraz (Clare tors’ Choice. —J.C. 92 Valley­). For full review see page 5. Editors’ Quinta Dona Matilde 2009 Vintage Port. abv: 14.5% Price: $33 Choice. 86 This sweet, smooth and approachable wine abv: 14.5% Price: $40 shows a rounded, ripe fruit character. It tastes sweet, Clarendon Hills 2008 Brookman Caber- with a note of black plum jelly and hints of treacle and 91 net Sauvignon­ (Clarendon). Slightly firm- Rocland Estate 2008 Lot 147 Single Vine- sultana. For mid-term aging. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. er and more structured than the other two Clarendon 92 yard Shiraz (Barossa Valley). This full-bod- —R.V. Hills Cabernets from 2008, the Brookman Cabernet ied Shiraz starts off plummy, with oak-derived accents abv: NA Price: $NA also delivers slightly more herbal aromas and flavors of smoke and vanilla. Those elements also show up on than its counterparts. There’s classic Ribena-like cassis, the palate, picking up additional notes of blackberry, ce- Domingos Alves de Sousa 2009 Alves de but additional shadings of dried herb and tobacco im- dar and baking spice. The texture is velvety, and the fin- 85 Sousa ­ Vintage Port. This is a very floral wine, part a crisp, slightly astringent edge to the finish. Drink ish is long and surprisingly elegant. Drink now–2025. all fragrance and perfume. As a consequence, the fruit 2014–2023. E & J Gallo. —J.C. Rocland Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. and structure are lost. There is a touch of bitterness on abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 the finish. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA 3 Rings 2008 Shiraz (Barossa Valley). SHIRAZ 91 This is a great example of what the Barossa Val- Quinta de Ventozelo 2009 Vintage Port. A ley can deliver at an affordable price. The alcohol is Yarra Yering 2008 Dry Red Wine No. 2 vanilla aroma is followed by old oak flavors and high, but well buffered by an ample raspberry flavor. 85 (Yarra Valley). Dry Red No. 2 is virtually all sweetly textured fruits. Not a wine for aging, this is al- 94 Despite the prevalence of raspberry and vanilla notes, Shiraz, though small amounts of Viognier, Marsanne­ ready soft and fruity. Signature Imports. —R.V. it’s not excessively confected or fruity, since it’s ground- and Mataro are often included. The 2008 displays abv: NA Price: $NA ed in savory, earthy notes. Drink now–2020. Quintes- slightly vegetal shadings of capsicum and tomato that sential Wines. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. may prove controversial, but there’s ample cassis as abv: 15.7% Price: $20 AUSTRALIA well, rounded out by a cedar note. Its medium weight and delicate, silky texture combine to impart those inef- Balgownie Estate 2008 Shiraz (Bendi- CABERNET SAUVIGNON fable qualities of grace and elegance. Old Bridge Cel- 91 go). Full bodied and richly textured, this is a lars. —J.C. lush, velvety Shiraz that nevertheless seems to possess Yalumba 2008 The Menzies Cabernet abv: 14% Price: $95 enough structure to age successfully. Cassis, molasses Sauvignon­ (Coonawarra). 93 The Menzies is and vanilla all play roles in the aroma and flavor profiles, Hazyblur 2007 Shiraz (Kangaroo Island). Yalumba’s­ top Coonawarra Cabernet, and its quality has while a mocha note chimes in on the long finish. Drink The quality of the wine emerging from this pro- improved tremendously over recent vintages. The 2008 93 now–2025. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. ducer located off the coast of South Australia continues is pure and ripe, with great black-cherry and cassis fla- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 vors, framed by an elegant vanilla-oak note. It’s full bod- to impress. This is a big, brash Shiraz, screaming with ied and plushly textured without being unstructured, vanilla and mixed berry flavors, yet the result is some Clarendon Hills 2008 Hickinbotham Syr- and it should drink well over the next 15 years. Nego- kind of harmony, even with the volume turned up to 11. 91 ah (Clarendon). Big and bulky, this is concen- ciants USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. It’s full bodied and plushly textured, with a long, layered trated and intense, with plenty of weight and texture to abv: 14.2% Price: $50 finish. Delicious now and over the five years or more. go along with dark flavors of blackberry, black olive and Baum Wine Imports Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. chocolate. A touch of mint helps lighten it a little, and Clarendon Hills 2008 Hickinbotham Cab- abv: 15.5% Price: $30 the dusty tannins help frame the powerful fruit. Try af- ernet Sauvignon (Clarendon). 92 Clarendon ter 2017. E & J Gallo. Cellar Selection. —J.C. Kilikanoon 2008 Green’s Vineyard Shi- Hills is best known for its Syrah and Grenache, but it abv: 14.5% Price: $75 is no slouch when it comes to McLaren Vale Caber- 93 raz (Barossa Valley). Full bodied and rich- net. The 2008 Hickinbotham is full bodied and velvety ly textured, this is a terrific example of Barossa Shiraz. Cluster M45 2008 Shiraz (Heathcote). in texture, with ample notes of cocoa and crisp cassis. From its smoky aromas and intense, briary scents to its 91 The result of a joint venture between the Hints of mint and other herbal shadings give it varietal complex, earthy, spicy flavors with an undercurrent of Chapoutier and Laughton families, this is a full-bodied, character and welcome complexity. Drink it over the blackberry, this is a complete package. The long finish superripe wine. Aromas and flavors of chocolate and next 10–12 years. E & J Gallo. —J.C. is slightly chewy, suggesting that additional aging is war- raisined cassis are almost Amarone-like, while the tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 ranted. Drink 2016–2025. Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar nins are softly dusty in texture and the finish long. Old Selection. —J.C. Bridge Cellars. —J.C. Clarendon Hills 2008 Sandown Caber- abv: 14.5% Price: $104 abv: 15% Price: $70 92 net Sauvignon­ (Clarendon). Chunky cas-

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 Penley Estate 2008 Special Select Shi- cohol level is moderate, just sufficient to give weight dominant notes are of mocha, mixed berry and vanil- 91 raz (Coonawarra). Full bodied, dense and to the wine’s pleasant mélange of fruity and savory el- la, while the tannins are supple and the finish elegant creamy in texture, this is an ultradark expression of ements, which range from vanilla and caramel to ripe and fruit-driven. Nice for drinking now and for the next Shiraz, with flavors ranging from asphalt to coffee and berries and fine-grained leather. Probably best now and couple of years. Negociants USA, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. black olive to chocolate. Plum and herb tangs round this over the next few years. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $14 out on the long, warm, velvety finish. Old Bridge Cel- abv: 13.5% Price: $40 lars. —J.C. Yering Station 2008 Shiraz-Viognier (Yar- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Wild Duck Creek Estate 2008 Springflat 89 ra Valley). This blend of 95% Shiraz and 5% 90 Shiraz (Heathcote). This is a big, fruit-driven Viognier displays some cool-climate character in its red Pikes 2007 Eastside Shiraz (Clare Val- style of Shiraz, with great aromas and flavors of cam- berry and herbal pepper notes. It’s medium bodied and 91 ley). Lush and creamy on the palate, this com- phor, vanilla, dark toast and cassis. There’s just enough slightly dusty in texture, with a tart, mouthwatering fin- plex wine boasts flavors of slightly mossy, decaying ce- structure to give it focus, although it lacks a bit of tex- ish. Drink it over the next few years. Rathbone Wine dar, molasses, damp earth and leather, all wrapped tural richness on the midpalate. Drink this supple wine Group. —J.C. around a bright core of red berry. Supple and lasting on over the next few years. Rathbone Wine Group. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $19 the finish. Drink now–2020. The Vintner Group. Edi- abv: 15.5% Price: $60 tors’ Choice. —J.C. Plantagenet 2008 Hazard Hill Shiraz abv: 14% Price: $28 Hope Estate 2008 The Ripper Shiraz 88 (Western Australia). Plantagenet’s entry-lev- 89 (Western Australia). Hope Estate is head- el Shiraz is a medium-bodied, supple wine with attrac- Plantagenet 2008 Shiraz (Mount Barker). quartered near Australia’s eastern coast, but this wine tive aromas of grilled meat and berry. The flavors build 91 All three of Plantagenet’s Shirazes were success- comes from a vineyard it owns way out west. It’s a well- on that base, adding hints of coffee and asphalt before ful in 2008. This, the flagship bottling, offers aromas of made, medium- to full-bodied Shiraz, boasting a rasp- finishing long, warm and chocolaty. Drink it over the coffee grounds, cherry and cracked black pepper, add- berry flavor that’s nicely accented by a dark coffee note next few years. Old Bridge Cellars. Best Buy. —J.C. ing vanilla, spice and charred beef flavors on the pal- and an approachable, open-knit texture. Drink it over abv: 14.5% Price: $13 ate. It’s harmonious, savory and complex. Drink now– the next year or two. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. 2020 and possibly beyond. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ abv: 14% Price: $18 Choice. —J.C. RED BLENDS Katnook Estate 2008 Prodigy Shiraz abv: 14.2% Price: $29 D’Arenberg 2008 The Ironstone Pressings (Coonawarra­). 89 Katnook’s Prodigy Shiraz is Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvèdre (McLaren Plantagenet 2008 Omrah Shiraz (Great full bodied and creamy in texture, combining authentic 92 Vale). For full review see page 5. Cellar Selection. Southern­). 91 A step up from the winery’s entry- Shiraz aromas and flavors with easy-drinking, open-knit abv: 14.5% Price: $65 level Hazard Hill bottling, the 2008 Omrah Shiraz is appeal. Scents of tar, black olive and blackberry give another terrific value. It takes plummy fruit and cedary way to flavors of red peppercorn and mixed berry. Drink Wild Duck Creek Estate 2008 Yellow oak, then ups the ante with complex notes of smoked now–2018. Victoire Imports. —J.C. 92 Hammer Hill Shiraz-Malbec (Heathcote). meat and leather while silky tannins line the long finish. abv: 14.5% Price: $43 Although this probably won’t be easy to locate (only 64 Drink now–2020. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. of the 550 cases produced were imported to the U.S.), it Kilikanoon 2008 Oracle Shiraz (Clare Val- —J.C. is worth seeking out for its full, expansive mouthfeel; in- ley). This wine starts off with notes of black- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 89 tense cassis and dark chocolate flavors; and long, velvety berry, mint and asphalt on the nose, unfurling on the finish. Drink now–2025. Rathbone Wine Group.Edi - Wyndham Estate 2008 George Wyndham tongue to reveal tar, black olive, meat and blackberry tors’ Choice. —J.C. Founder’s Reserve Shiraz (Langhorne 91 flavors. It’s full bodied and intense, even a bit warm on abv: 14.8% Price: $25 Creek). This wine represents an excellent value, and the finish. Impressively concentrated, but slightly bitter one that showcases the quality potential of Langhorne as well. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. Cullen 2009 Diana Madeline (Margaret Creek. It’s creamy in texture, voluptuous in feel and full abv: 14.5% Price: $70 91 River). The 2009 Diana Madeline is 88% Cab- in body, with a bold flavor of red currant that’s framed ernet Sauvignon, with the balance a blend of Cabernet Leeuwin Estate 2008 Art Series Shiraz by ample cedar and vanilla notes. Long and creamy on Franc, Merlot and Malbec. It boasts lovely aromas of (Margaret­ River). Made in a restrained, per- the finish. Drink now–2018. Pernod Ricard. Editors’ 89 cassis and tobacco leaf or dried herb, while on the pal- haps age-worthy style, Leeuwin’s 2008 Art Series Shi- Choice. —J.C. ate it is restrained. For all of the aromatic boldness and raz offers up cassis tinged with hints of mint and to- abv: 14.2% Price: $20 purity, it’s a bit austere, ending on a firm, crisp note. A bacco. The tannins are silky in texture, while the wine 2002 tasted recently was just hitting its stride, so give it Clarendon Hills 2008 Piggot Range Syr- never strays past medium weight. Drink now–2020. Old another 6–8 years. Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selec- ah (Clarendon­). This is a potent, rich Shiraz. Bridge Cellars. —J.C. 90 tion. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 It’s full bodied and thickly textured, with aromas and abv: 12.5% Price: $95 flavors of mocha, asphalt and plum. The overall impres- Leeuwin Estate 2008 Siblings Shiraz sion is somewhat chunky and inelegant but undeniably D’Arenberg 2009 The Galvo Garage (Margaret­ River). In effect, this is Leeuwin’s concentrated. Give it five years or so to smooth out 89 (Adelaide­). Primarily Cabernet Sauvignon second-tier Shiraz, and it drinks like one, being only 91 some of the rough edges. E & J Gallo. Cellar Selec- (the balance is Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet moderately full in body and offering deliciously silky tion. —J.C. Franc), this is full bodied, lush and richly textured. Cas- tannins. Bright raspberry and cherry flavors are accent- abv: 14.5% Price: $110 sis, blackberry, vanilla and tobacco leaf notes give this ed by vanilla shadings. Drink it over the next few years. a convincingly Bordeaux-styled profile, although much D’Arenberg 2008 The Dead Arm Shiraz Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. riper and plusher. Drink now–2023. Old Bridge Cellars. (McLaren­ Vale). For full review see page 8. abv: 13.8% Price: $20 90 —J.C. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $29 abv: 14.5% Price: $65 Redbank 2008 The Long Paddock Shiraz (Victoria). 89 Redbank is the Hill-Smith (of Ya- Dutschke 2008 WillowBend Shiraz-Cab- Greenstone 2007 Shiraz (Heathcote). lumba) family’s Victorian brand. The Long Paddock is ernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Barossa Valley). Greenstone’s­ 2007 Shiraz is a medium-bodied, a range of wines produced largely from purchased fruit, 91 90 This has been a consistently excellent offering over re- open-knit representation of Heathcote Shiraz. The al- but this is a nicely balanced, easy-to-drink wine. Pre- cent vintages, combining Shiraz, Cabernet and Merlot

WineMag.com | 51 to good effect. Oaky shadings of vanilla and coconut Valentin Bianchi 2011 Famiglia Bianchi Andeluna 2011 Altitud Chardonnay frame chocolaty fruit, lined with just enough of a bright 87 Chardonnay­ (San Rafael). The nose is toasty 83 (Tupungato­). Aromas of mealy fruit are off- cherry note. It’s full bodied and creamy textured, with and properly oaked, with mineral and apple aromas. It’s set by scents of air freshener and barrel-derived cinna- a long, plush finish. Drink now–2020. Baum Wine Im- a touch resiny in feel, while flavors of honeyed apple mon. This feels regular and round, with simple apple ports Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. and cinnamon lead to a finish that shows notes of va- and wood-spice flavors. The finish tastes wheaty, with a abv: 14.7% Price: $24 nilla, toasted hazelnut and wood-spice flavors. Oaky for plump feel. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. sure, and ready to drink. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25 Yarra Yering 2009 Dry Red Wine No. 1 abv: 13.8% Price: $18 91 (Yarra­ Valley). This classic Bordeaux-inspired Doña Paula 2011 Los Cardos Chardon- red blend shows its Yarra Valley origins in its crisp, Las Moras 2011 Reserve Chardonnay 83 nay (Mendoza). Oily, nutty aromas fold in mouthwatering acids and medium body. The flavors 86 (San Juan). Apple, pear and oak aromas blend hints of field greens and onions. Apple and citrus flavors are dark and earthy, with blackberry and cherry flavors well. The palate on this tropical-leaning Chardonnay are adequate, while the wine feels acidic, with little sup- wrapped in a coat of cedar and molasses. The track re- tastes citrusy but soft, with more flesh than acid. Flavors porting texture. Tangy, basic stuff with a rough edge. cord suggests cellaring up to 15 years, although it’s ap- of nectarine, citrus and melon are good but not overly Trinchero Family Estates. —M.S. proachable now. Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selection. refined. Feels wide on the finish. Universal Wine Net- abv: 13.5% Price: $11 —J.C. work. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $95 abv: 14% Price: $10 Pantago 2010 Chardonnay (Mendoza). 83 Teetering aromas of apple, oak and mineral Cullen 2009 Mangan (Margaret River). Trivento 2010 Golden Reserve Chardon- don’t hold much sway, while the palate is both chunky 88 An unusual blend for Australia, this is 63% Mal- 86 nay (Mendoza). This is heady but flat on the and oversized, sizzling with acid. A muddled flavor of bec, 27% Petit Verdot and 10% Merlot. The blackberry nose, with soft, oak-driven aromas of baked apple and white fruit leads to a finish where nothing sticks out. flavor is bold and punchy, with hints of cinnamon and toffee. It feels plump yet alive due to good acidity, while Winery Exchange. —M.S. cracked pepper. It’s full bodied and slightly creamy in the flavor profile is steered by the barrel, leaving notes abv: 14% Price: $12 texture, making it a satisfying red for near-term con- of toasty apple and walnut. A good wine but one that re- sumption. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. ally piles on the oak and resin. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. Arge & Tina 2011 Chardonnay (San abv: 12.5% Price: $46 abv: 14.5% Price: $21 82 Juan). A waxy aroma contains a spot of citrus, turning stalky with airing. It feels oily and heavy, with Wirra Wirra 2008 Church Block Cabernet Andeluna 2011 1300 Chardonnay (Uco stalky flavors of white fruit and orange peel. Finishes 87 Sauvignon-­Merlot-Shiraz (McLaren Vale). 85 Valley). An apple aroma comes with a tinge of bitter and pithy. IBESC Wine Distributor. —M.S. Medium to full bodied, with nicely supple tannins, Wir- mild oak, turning fleshy and less fresh with airing. The abv: 13.5% Price: $9 ra Wirra’s Church Block is an attractive wine for near- palate includes flavors of melon, apple and green herb, term consumption. Flavors in this blend of 48% Cab- while the finish is pithy and citrusy, revealing a touch DiamAndes 2011 de Uco Chardonnay ernet, 37% Shiraz and 15% Merlot range from broiled of green onion. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. 82 (Uco Valley). This thick, resiny Chardonnay tomato to tart berry, then pick up some dried fruit char- abv: 14% Price: $15 smells like lemon pudding and air freshener. It’s flat in acter with air, finishing with an unusually tart edge. In- feel, with low acidity, pushing creamy banana and va- ternational Vines, Inc. —J.C. Benegas 2011 Clara Benegas Char- nilla flavors in front of a resiny finish that shows even abv: 14.5% Price: $20 85 donnay (Mendoza). This is a frisky type of more vanilla influence. It tastes candied and soft overall. Chardonnay­ with little to no oak character. The nose is Dourthe USA. —M.S. purely tropical, with melon and lychee aromas. The pal- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 ARGENTINA ate is zesty but a bit hollow, with flavors of green apple, peach and lychee. Vias Imports. —M.S. CHARDONNAY abv: 13.5% Price: $15 SAUVIGNON BLANC Bodega NQN 2010 Malma Finca la Papay Bodega Catena Zapata 2010 Catena Alta Casarena 2011 Chardonnay (Mendoza). Sauvignon­ Blanc (Patagonia). This smells Estate­ Rows Chardonnay (Mendoza). For Butter and coconut aromas announce the lib- 84 91 85 bland but clean, with a hint of citrus. It feels spritzy but full review see page 6. Editors’ Choice. eral use of oak, which the palate echoes with its round, simple, with papaya, green melon and mild citrus fla- abv: 13% Price: $35 resiny feel and flavors of vanilla, wood and baked pear. vors. Good in a very basic way, but drink now before it This is soft, flat and sugary tasting, with an oaky finish. Viña Cobos 2011 Bramare Marchiori fades. Vias Imports. —M.S. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. abv: 12.6% Price: $11 89 Vineyard Chardonnay (Mendoza). This is abv: 14.7% Price: $17 big and yellowish in color, which is usually an indicator Bodega Margot 2011 Maula Sauvignon of strong barrel character. And indeed, it’s very oaky and San Huberto 2011 Chardonnay (Argen- Blanc (Mendoza). This smells stalky and oily, resiny on the nose, palate and finish. But in between tina). Light, uncommitted aromas of pear and 83 84 with a peach pit aroma. It feels citrusy, tangy and a touch the waves of wood spice, vanilla and resin are complexi- lemon lead to a modest palate that offers fleshy melon bitter, with flavors of white grapefruit, white peach and ties, fine acidity, good textural balance and sweet, tropi- and pear flavors. Everything about this wine is mild, in- grass. It shows a tangerine note and a sticky feel on the cal fruit flavors. Drink now. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. cluding the finish, which offers little besides vanilla and abv: 14.6% Price: $45 finish. ENYE Distribution Group, LLC. —M.S. cream flavors. Jomada Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 13% Price: $9 Domaine Jean Bousquet 2010 Grande Casarena 2011 Estate Bottled Sauvignon Reserve Chardonnay (Tupungato). An oily San Huberto 2010 Reserva Chardonnay 87 Blanc (Mendoza). Notes of vanilla, melon white-fruit aroma is overrun by a heavy oak scent, leav- (Argentina­). Perfumed aromas of lemon ver- 83 84 and oily bitterness define the nose. The wine feels both ing notes of resin and toast on the bouquet. The wine bena and wild flower are reminiscent of air freshener. creamy and grabby, with pithy, sweet-tasting flavors of feels fleshy, and the palate keeps that theme going with The palate is a bit heavy, but solid acidity provides nec- melon and peach. A persistent, mild bitterness down- baked flavors of apple and peach. This is about as oaky essary cut. Flavors of vanilla and spice are a little funky, as a wine can be and still be very good. Domaine Jean grades the finish. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. while the finish is also oaky. Jomada Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $15 Bousquet. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 14% Price: $25

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 Portillo 2011 Estate Bottled Sauvignon but simple white wine made of 85% Torrontés and 15% is round, full and fresh, with tight acids and dry, woody, 82 Blanc (Valle de Uco). Prickly aromas of sa- Riesling. Hess Collection. —M.S. spicy flavors of black fruit that are accented by vanilla line and citrus precede an acidic, spritzy palate that’s abv: 13.5% Price: $11 and butter. It finishes toasty and lengthy, with a com- home to modest mango and melon flavors. Turns rath- fortable fade. Only 350 cases were made. Kysela Père er bitter and oily on the finish. Palm Bay International. Finca Agostino 2010 Reserva Chardon- et Fils. —M.S. —M.S. 85 nay-Viognier (Mendoza). Talcum powder abv: 14.9% Price: $36 abv: 13.5% Price: $11 and apple aromas accompany a big whiff of resinous oak. On the palate, it’s tropical in both feel and flavors, Gimenez Riili 2008 Gran Reserva Limit- with plenty of weight and aggressive tastes of pineap- 89 ed Edition Malbec (Uco Valley). Good but TORRONTÉS ple and mango. Feels a bit sticky and not quite precise, not excessively expressive on the bouquet, this reveals with a chunky finish. Fleischer International Trading, a milk chocolate element that emerges after the wine Quara 2010 Viña La Esperanza Single Inc. —M.S. airs. The flavor profile starts with a lemony oak note, Vineyard Torrontés (Cafayate). Lemon, 88 abv: 13.5% Price: $19 with notes of blackberry, herb and peppery spice un- pine and bath oil aromas are more dense and serious derneath. The nice finish is modest, like the bouquet. than what’s normal for this variety, while the palate has Finca La Anita 2011 Tonada Torrontés- Only 300 cases made. Pavi Micheli Lawson - Robert richness, weight and an oily texture. Flavors of melon, Chardonnay­ (Mendoza). Torrontés is not Lawson. —M.S. baked apple and toffee are rich and a bit oxidized, while 81 known for aging well in the bottle, and this one is al- abv: 14.9% Price: $68 butterscotch and musky fruit flavors work the finish. most past its prime. There’s some tropicality left on the Drink now. Pampa Beverages LLC. —M.S. nose, but it mostly smells sweaty. Flabby on the palate, Lamadrid 2011 Single Vineyard Malbec abv: 13.5% Price: $35 with an oily, bitter peach-pit flavor. San Francisco Wine 89 (Agrelo­). This is a powerfully built Malbec Exchange. —M.S. with intense aromas of mint, medicine and blackberry. Fat Gaucho 2011 Torrontés (Mendoza). abv: 13.3% Price: $15 It feels thick and pure, with a chewy texture and medici- This is a perfectly solid, fresh Torrontés, with 85 nal flavors of berry, vanilla and spice. The flavors veer lime, pineapple and banana aromas and similar flavors. toward char, pepper and darkness on the finish. Vino Add in some acid-based agility and lift, and this ranks as MALBEC Del Sol. —M.S. an everyday quaffer of the first order. Drink immediate- abv: 14% Price: $15 ly. Fat Gaucho Wines, LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. Larraín, Lasmartres Toso & Undurraga abv: 12.5% Price: $10 2008 LTU Malbec (Uco Valley). For full re- 94 Trapiche 2011 Oak Cask Malbec (Mendo- view see page 4. Editors’ Choice. za). In good vintages like 2011, Trapiche’s Mal- Solo Contigo 2011 Premium Series Tor- abv: 14.8% Price: $52 89 becs can be impressive across the board, as evidenced rontés (Mendoza). An oily popcorn aroma 84 by this value. The nose is fresh and fruity, with a dusting mixes with a tropical fruit note on this midlevel Torron- Ruca Malen 2009 Kinien Malbec (Mendo- of cocoa. It feels layered and vibrant, with ripe berry, tés. It feels round and chunky on the palate, with flavors za). This big, lush, friendly and serious Malbec 92 toast and spice flavors. Smooth and easy on the fade. of pineapple and citrus. The finish deals both sweet ba- is packed with prune, blackberry and toast aromas. On The Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. nana and lemon notes. Antares. —M.S. the palate, it’s deep and layered, the perfect bed for fla- abv: 14% Price: $10 abv: 13% Price: $18 vors of blackberry, chocolate and herb to fill. Huge for sure, but still complex, with dynamite prune and lico- Trivento 2011 Reserve Malbec (Men- Solsticio 2011 Verano Torrontés (Mendo- rice notes on the finish. Drink now–2015. Opici Wines. doza). This is a solid, well-crafted and flavor- za). Tropical in scent, almost to the point of air Editors’ Choice. —M.S. 89 84 ful Malbec. Black fruit and cocoa aromas set up a con- freshener, this also has an oily, bitter hint to the bou- abv: 13.8% Price: $48 centrated palate, bearing chewy, dense flavors of black quet. It feels choppy and citric, with a nuttiness to the plum, wild berry and chocolate, plus toast and pepper core of tangerine, lemon and melon flavors. Good but Melipal 2007 Nazarenas Vineyard Malbec notes. Production is 100,000-plus cases. Banfi Vintners. fading. Solsticio LLC. —M.S. (Mendoza). Deep, dark and charred on the 91 Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13 nose, this features campfire and black cherry aromas. It feels fresh, alert and snappy for being so dark and ripe, abv: 14% Price: $11 Quara 2011 Reserva Torrontés (Cafay- with blackberry and padded oak flavors. It’s layered and Benvenuto de la Serna 2008 Malbec ate). Light and powdery in scent, this has a dis- a touch creamy on the finish. A modern, powerful Mal- 83 (Uco Valley­). This staunch Malbec opens with tinct note of air freshener. It’s fairly creamy on the pal- bec to drink now–2016. The Artisan Collection. —M.S. 88 straightforward berry aromas, and with airing it turns ate, with lychee and orange flavors that settle into a lime abv: 14.5% Price: $40 leathery and cheesy smelling. It’s tight and tannic on the note on the finish. Pampa Beverages LLC. —M.S. palate, with lemony oak, potent blackberry and herb fla- abv: 14% Price: $17 Trivento 2009 Eolo Malbec (Luján de 91 Cuyo). Eolo is Trivento’s prized wine, and this vors. Short, rugged and tannic on the finish, but loaded vintage hammers away from the start with blackberry, with flavor and spunk. Cannon Wines Limited. —M.S. WHITE BLENDS toast and pepper aromas. The palate is huge and ex- abv: 14% Price: $18 tracted, with dark, fat blackberry flavors that are tem- Trivento 2011 Amado Sur White (Mendo- Bernard Magrez 2010 La Bienvenida Mal- pered by graphite and minty oak. It’s as black as they za). Although this wine is entering its late stag- bec (Mendoza). Sound and full on the nose, 86 come, with mint and licorice flavors on the finish. An 88 es of freshness, the bouquet is nice and tropical smell- this features plum and berry aromas. This is a full- inky, intense wine, with less than 500 cases made. Banfi ing. The palate maintains its vitality, even if it’s a bit oily bodied­, round Malbec that’s neither overextracted nor Vintners. —M.S. in texture, while the flavors of lychee, melon and apple abv: 15.5% Price: $79 excessively heavy. The flavors of baked berry, chocolate are good. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. and herb are nice, as is the spicy finish of mint and to- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Viu Manent 2008 ViBo Malbec (Mendo- bacco. MHW, Ltd. —M.S. za). For full review see page 7. abv: 15% Price: $26 Amalaya 2011 Esperanza por un Mila- 91 abv: 15% Price: $42 85 gro Torrontés-­Riesling (Calchaqui Val- Hacienda del Plata 2009 Mayoral Grand ley). This wine smells a bit soapy, with citrusy aromas. Chakana 2009 Ayni Malbec (Mendoza). 88 Reserve­ Malbec (Mendoza). Scratchy berry It feels level, solid and soft, with melon, sweet pear and Dry, dusty cassis aromas are full and friendly, and cherry aromas are a bit fiery, leading to the palate candied papaya flavors. It finishes sweet, as if a teaspoon 90 with added notes of earth and graphite. The mouthfeel that feels raw on the edges but more dense and syrupy of powdered sugar were part of the equation. A friendly

WineMag.com | 53 in the middle. Big, chunky and generous, this has flavors Suter 2010 Lujuria Malbec (Mendoza). it’s blasting with minty oak, marshmallow and black fruit of creamy berry and pepper lead to a hot, full, some- 86 Baked raspberry, leather and stalky herb aromas flavors. Jomada Imports. —M.S. what syrupy finish. ARGCA Imports. —M.S. create an earthy nose. It feels good but a touch flat, with abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 creamy, chewy plum and berry flavors that finish with sweetness. Good in a regular, everyday sense. Pampa Argento 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). This Lamadrid 2010 Single Vineyard Reserva Beverages LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. 83 smells leathery at first, and then it turns for- 88 Malbec­ (Agrelo). Despite showing a grassy abv: 13.5% Price: $10 esty and raw. It has a blocky, concentrated mouthfeel component on the bouquet, this is a sturdy, generous and herb-tinged plum and red berry flavors. It remains Malbec with a mix of dark, juicy aromas and flavors. Weinert 2006 Malbec (Mendoza). Initial- herbal without much fruit on the finish. Distinguished Touches of blackberry and dark plum carry an herb 86 ly, there are plenty of hay, barnyard, horsehide Vineyards & Wine Partners. —M.S. streak, while the finish is minty, toasted and chunky, and other old-style aromas. The palate feels chunky and abv: 13.5% Price: $13 with a final volley of menthol and herb notes. Vino Del a touch flat, with beet, root beer and molasses flavors. Sol. —M.S. It finishes with flabby definition and ripe, sweet heat. Gran Altura 2007 Malbec (Mendoza). Bell abv: 14% Price: $19 Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S. 83 pepper and tomato aromas, combined with hot abv: 14.5% Price: $23 and burnt notes, don’t make for a very inviting nose. Nieto Senetiner 2008 Cadus Single Vine- The palate is acidic, leaving tart plum and cranberry fla- 88 yard Malbec (Mendoza). Cadus starts with Bodega Margot 2009 Maula Oak Malbec vors in front of an oaky, citrusy finish. Rough and basic. big aromas of berry, cola and cool earth, but it drops off 85 (Mendoza­). This is minty, crusty and frankly a Solsticio LLC. —M.S. on the palate. By the time it finishes, the wine has lost bit harsh on the bouquet, where aromas turn charred abv: 13.5% Price: $12 steam and seems a little flat. Along the way, it’s plump and burnt. It feels roasted and chunky, with hickory- and easy, with mossy, earthy flavors of herbs and black smoked flavors of clove and berry. The finish vacillates Telteca 2010 Roble Malbec (Mendoza). fruits. Could be fresher. Winebow. —M.S. between being oaky and herbal. ENYE Distribution 83 This smells of raw oak, cinnamon and clove, abv: 15% Price: $52 Group, LLC. —M.S. with its fruit essence entirely in the background. It’s abv: 13.95% Price: $17 creamy, chewy and tannic on the palate, with herbal, Andeluna 2006 Pasionado Malbec (Men- oaky, resiny flavors of baking spice and modest raspber- 87 doza). This smells rubbery and horsey at first, Las Moras 2007 Finca Pedernal Malbec ry. Fleischer International Trading, Inc. —M.S. then earthy and ripe. It feels grabby and tannic, with 85 (San Juan). Foresty, rubbery and brash, this abv: 13.5% Price: $13 rustic, leathery flavors of baked berry and cheese. has toasty, woody, cheesy and berry-driven aromas. It Narrow and a bit dried out, this may already be past feels creamy and heavy, with herbal and salty flavors Bodega Carmine Granata 2007 Roble its prime in terms of vitality. San Francisco Wine Ex- that finish with a roasted, meaty taste. Warm, heavy and 82 Gran Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). This change. —M.S. ponderous. Universal Wine Network. —M.S. grassy, candied specimen smells and feels scratchy, with abv: 15% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 green, fiery flavors of cherry and strawberry. Tarasi Win- eries. —M.S. Bodega Norton 2010 Barrel Select Mal- Mountain Door 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). abv: 14.2% Price: $23 87 bec (Mendoza). Punchy black-cherry and 85 This smells candied and oddly citrusy, with un- herb aromas form a clean, honest greeting. The wine usual blueberry and exotic spice aromas. The mouthfeel Pietro Marini 2009 Malbec (Cafayate). feels good and plump, with a solid structure and famil- is fresh and grabby, while the flavors of raspberry and 82 This has an unconvincing bouquet of grass, iar flavors of blackberry, vanilla and toasted spice. Turns vanilla are generally appealing and alert. Short on the leather and citrusy red fruit aromas. The wiry palate has minty and a little fiery on the finish. T.G.I.C. Import- finish. Vintage Point. Best Buy. —M.S. soupy, rustic flavors of roasted, leathery berry. Dry and ers. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10 scratchy on the finish. Table 31 Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13 abv: 14% Price: $17 Xavier Flouret 2010 La Pilar Reserva Mal- Finca Los Maza 2009 Reserva Malbec 85 bec (Mendoza). This smells of rubber, plastic, Region 1 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Rusty 87 (Mendoza­). This extracted, full-bodied Mal- creamy milk chocolate and berry. The wine has good 81 in color, this wine features aromas of compost, bec opens with smashed berry, prune and minty oak body, but the oak element has a greasy, buttery taste. juniper and a touch of floral red fruit. It comes on strong aromas. It’s thick but limited on the palate, with beefy Core flavors of herbal plum and berry end with a leath- in the mouth, with a leafy, rustic dried-cherry flavor, be- tannins but not a lot of depth. It tastes like blackberry ery finish. Cognac One, LLC. —M.S. fore feeling hard and tannic. Pampa Beverages LLC. and fudge—more big and burly than complex. Deutsch abv: 13.5% Price: $15 —M.S. Family Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $8 abv: 13.7% Price: $12 Enrique Foster 2009 Raleo Estate Bot- 84 tled Malbec­ (Mendoza). Stalky in scent, this Bodega Carmine Granata 2010 Granata is underwhelming on the nose. It feels adequate and CABERNET SAUVIGNON 86 Malbec­ (Mendoza). Scratchy berry aromas solid, with basic raspberry, strawberry and spice flavors. Artes del Sur 2009 Grand Reserve Cab- settle down with airing, revealing a medium-plus-sized Scratchy on the finish, with mild red-fruit flavors. Drey- 90 ernet Sauvignon (Uco Valley). This is true palate, with good freshness and a dark fruit flavor, like fus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. Cabernet evidenced by its mildly herbal nose of juniper, black plum, along with fiery spice. It turns dry and pep- abv: 14% Price: $14 pine and leather that’s mixed into a core of berry and pery on the finish. Tarasi . Best Buy. —M.S. cassis. The mouthfeel deals both jammy richness and Finca Los Maza 2010 Colección Mal- abv: 13.3% Price: $10 crisp acidity, while flavors run from herb to black fruit to bec (Mendoza­). A cool cherry aroma and a 84 coffee. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. Bodega Carmine Granata 2009 Malbec mild, creamy paste note open the nose. The feel is fi- abv: 14.9% Price: $25 86 (Mendoza­). This wine starts with rough aro- ery and untamed, while full flavors of cherry and plum mas of black fruit and horseradish before turning earthy seem raw. A cocoa flavor and juicy feel define the finish. Andeluna 2010 1300 Cabernet Sauvi- and leathery. The mouthfeel is mostly good, with rub- Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. 87 gnon (Uco Valley). Spice, mint, herb, rasp- bery tannins, and the palate bears flavors of baked red abv: 13.8% Price: $10 berry and currant aromas form a good nose. Things berry and herb. This is not run of the mill; it’s unusual, run a bit choppy and rough on the palate, but over- San Huberto 2010 Reserva Malbec (Ar- fruity, hot and wild. Tarasi Wineries. —M.S. all it works, bearing roasted berry and herb influenc- gentina). This smells wild, with a jumpy cherry abv: 13.6% Price: $15 84 es, with grabby tannins. This is a full, stocky, spicy and aroma. The palate is huge and tannic in the mouth, and

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 mildly green-leaning Cabernet. San Francisco Wine Ex- ter. It feels globular, tasting of beets and leather. Pruny change. —M.S. PINOT NOIR and bitter on the finish. Tarasi Wineries. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Bodega Margot 2010 Maula Oak Pinot abv: 13.4% Price: $15 86 Noir (Mendoza). This is a honest Pinot, fea- Hacienda del Plata 2010 Zagal Cabernet turing tea, dry raspberry and herb aromas. It offers a 87 Sauvignon­ (Mendoza). Cherry, cassis and light mouthfeel in support of mildly leafy, rooty flavors RED BLENDS spice aromas are mild and comported. The wine feels of raspberry and plum. Earthy and nicely oaked, with a Finca Agostino 2008 Agostino Familia chewy and just dense enough, with baked cassis, berry rooty finish. ENYE Distribution Group, LLC. —M.S. Gran Reserva (Mendoza). This opens with and herb flavors that finish toasty and hot, with a rub- 92 abv: 12.4% Price: $17 smoky, powerful aromas of black fruit and oak. The pal- bery note. Clean aromas and full fruit flavors are this ate feels flush, offering several levels of character and wine’s best attributes. ARGCA Imports. —M.S. Cruz Alta 2010 Grand Reserve Pinot Noir complexity. Flavorwise, this pulses with blackberry, cas- abv: 14.5% Price: $14 85 (Mendoza­). This appears light and rusty in the sis and fudge, before finishing with subtle prune, mint glass, with a distant aroma of floral cherry and not much and chocolate notes. Not edgy or hard. A blend of Mal- Viña Alicia 2010 Paso de Piedra Caber- more. It feels sheer and fresh, with fiery red-fruit fla- bec, Petit Verdot, Cabernet and Syrah. Fleischer Inter- net Sauvignon­ (Luján de Cuyo). One whiff 83 vors of cranberry and plum. Fades away with acidity and national Trading, Inc. —M.S. reveals a roasted peanut aroma that’s ultimately leathery a juicy strawberry note. Clock Tower Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30 and not very fresh. The wine feels tannic and hard, with abv: 13.5% Price: $15 a short berry flavor and a roasted bitterness that carries Septima 2009 Gran Reserva (Mendoza). the finish. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. Familia Schroeder 2010 Saurus Select For full review see page 6. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 92 84 Pinot Noir (Patagonia). Dry and raw on the abv: 14.5% Price: $25 nose, this Pinot includes hints of tomato and citrus. It Cruz Alta 2010 Grand Reserve Cabernet feels creamy and oaky, with vanilla-infused flavors of Ruca Malen 2008 Kinien de Don Raúl Sauvignon­ (Mendoza). This smells heav- 82 plum and berry. Eco Valley. —M.S. (Mendoza­). This blend of Malbec, Cabernet ily charred, like a blend of burnt leaf, charcoal-grilled 91 abv: 14.5% Price: $19 Sauvignon and Petit Verdot is powerful, with a blueber- hamburger and funky, roasted berry. The palate feels ry flavor, a mild green note, a balsamic hint and a mo- rough and bumpy, while the flavor profile is herbal to Quimay 2011 Pinot Noir (Neuquén). Big lasses tinge. It’s saturated and clampy in feel, with ag- an extreme. Finishes green and soupy. Clock Tower Im- 84 and smoky on the nose, this is hard to peg as gressive flavors of lemony oak, balsamic fruit and baked ports. —M.S. Pinot Noir. The mouth is grabby and leaves the feeling berry. Warm, oaky and full of licorice flavor on the fin- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 of extract and residue as it progresses to the finish. Fla- ish. Drink 2014–2019. Opici Wines. Cellar Selection. vors include candied berry and baked plum. Vino Del —M.S. Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $65 BONARDA abv: NA Price: $15 Lamadrid 2011 Single Vineyard Bonarda Bodega NQN 2007 Malma Universo 88 (Agrelo­). Gritty in scent up front, this features Ombu 2010 Pinot Noir (San Rafael). This 90 Blend (Patagonia­). For full review see page beet and candied black-fruit aromas along with a dry 83 opens with a heavy black-cherry aroma that’s 7. spice note. It feels chunky, with powerful tannins. Fla- topped with a hint of leaf and a whiff of plastic. It feels abv: 14.5% Price: $22 vors of black plum, berry, coffee and chocolate finish medicinal and tastes like a mix of cherry cough syrup, with a sweet vanilla taste and another helping of ripe oak and mint. Specialty Cellars. —M.S. Finca Flichman 2009 Expresiones Re- black fruit. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $13 90 serve Malbec-­Cabernet Sauvignon (Men- abv: 14% Price: $15 doza). Chunky plum, berry and toasty campfire aro- Verum 2011 Pinot Noir (Alto Valle del Río mas are full and thick on this blend of 60% Malbec and Siesta Wines 2011 Tahuan Bonarda 83 Negro­). Rubbery, stalky and dark smelling for 40% Merlot. The palate is stout and meaty, with pro- 87 (Mendoza). Heavy blackberry, bacon, rubber Pinot Noir, this is heavy, ripe and thick across the pal- nounced but honest tannins. It tastes charred, with ripe and spice aromas set up a voluminous palate, with grab- ate as well. Flavors of creamy berries accompany minty, berry, prune and chocolate undercurrents. Loses some by tannins and deep flavors of baked blackberry, clove sticky oak. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. of its spunk on the finish. T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. and chocolate. The finish feels thick, powerful and long, abv: 13.9% Price: $20 —M.S. with a chocolate accent. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Cruz Alta 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Men- abv: 13.7% Price: $16 82 doza). Dry red fruit and tomato notes define Finca Flichman 2009 Paisaje de Tupun- Tilia 2011 Bonarda (Mendoza). This is the nose on this light-colored Pinot. Flavors of earthy 90 gato (Mendoza). Dark in the glass, this has 86 herbal and clipped smelling, with a scattering of cherry and spice get buried under buttery oak, which a moderately complex nose, with notes of black fruit, berry and plum notes. It feels saturated and chewy, with carries through onto the finish. Clock Tower Imports. leather and spice. It feels tight, fresh and snappy, but roasted berry, pepper and spice flavors that lead to a —M.S. not excessively wide or structured. Flavors of ripe berry lightly herbal finish, with a rubbery accent and a baked abv: 13.5% Price: $13 and cocoa lead to a solid finish, which has a controlled, fruit note. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. smooth feel. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec Manos Negras 2011 Pinot Noir (Pata- abv: 13.5% Price: $11 and Merlot. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. gonia). 81 Chunky cherry and earthy tea aromas abv: 14.5% Price: $19 Zolo 2011 Sustainably Farmed Bonarda lead to a supremely tannic and overbearing body, leav- 85 (Mendoza­). A foxy berry aroma and a jammy ing a residue as it transitions to the finish. Flavors along Michel Torino 2009 Altimus (Cafayate). character define the nose on this jumpy, juicy Bonar- the way include oak, vanilla, syrupy berry, plastic and 89 Over the years, Altimus—a blend of Malbec, da. Although it tastes fresh, it doesn’t offer a whole lot creamy chocolate. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. Cabernet and Tannat—has been all over the map. This of structure or seriousness. It tastes candied and full of abv: 14% Price: $17 vintage is quite good, with burly aromas of bacon, bal- berry and buttery oak flavors. There’s a vanilla note on sam wood, campfire and black fruit. It’s a load in the Bodega Carmine Granata NV Pinot Noir the finish. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. mouth, where minty, lemony oak flavors vie with black- (Mendoza­). This is dark, amorphous and abv: 13.8% Price: $11 80 berry and foresty herb notes. Leather and tobacco fla- shows almost nothing in the way of Pinot Noir charac-

WineMag.com | 55 vors appear on the feisty finish. Frederick Wildman & mas but not much complexity. The palate is medium in Paul Hobbs 2010 Edwards James Estate Sons, Ltd. —M.S. weight and clean, with lightly herb-influenced flavors of 95 Wente Selection Chardonnay (Russian abv: 14.4% Price: $50 plum, berry and tomato. It finishes herbal, peppery and River Valley). There isn’t a Chardonnay out there as spicy. A blend of 50% each Malbec and Cabernet Sauvi- rich, opulent and delicious as this one. It dazzles with San Huberto 2007 Nina Blend (Argenti- gnon. Opici Wines. —M.S. tropical fruit, pear, peach, green apple, honey, vanilla 89 na). Roasted and decidedly earthy on the nose, abv: 13.8% Price: $12 and cinnamon spice flavors. Brisk, lime-driven acid- this has mature aromas of coffee, spice and herb note. A ity provides beautiful balance. It’s oaky, but the smoky, solid fabric of aged tannins and acidity bolster the wild Zuccardi 2010 Serie A Cabernet Sauvi- buttered-toast and butterscotch notes are nearly per- berry and cherry flavors, which finish syrupy and raisiny. 86 gnon-Malbec (Mendoza). Very black in col- fect. Drink now with rich crab, lobster or scallop dishes. A blend of 50% Petit Verdot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon or, this blend is soft and fleshy on the nose. The palate is —S.H. and 20% Malbec. Jomada Imports. —M.S. blocky, big and jammy, while the flavors are leathery and abv: 14.2% Price: $75 abv: 14% Price: $20 herbal, delivering notes of blackberry and plum. It fin- ishes full, stewed and meaty, with a soupy accent. Good Paul Hobbs 2010 Richard Dinner Vine- Zuccardi 2009 Zeta (Mendoza). This big, for a wide-bodied wine. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. 94 yard Cuvée Agustina Chardonnay (So- 89 oaky specimen opens with aromas of cheesy abv: 14% Price: $15 noma Mountain). Made in the popular modern style, berry, vanilla, spice and heat on the bouquet. It feels this is a particular success. It shows ultraconcentrated tannic, full bodied and resiny, with tastes of wood, dried Bodegas El Porvenir De Los Andes 2011 orange, apricot, green apple and peach flavors that are cheese, vanilla and roasted berry. The finish shows re- 85 Amauta­ I Malbec-Cabernet-Syrah (Cafay- wrapped into a creamy texture, and a strong coating of sidual oak, hickory and soupy berry leftovers. A bomb- ate). This wine is characteristic of Salta in its initial hit oak brings layers of butterscotch, buttered toast and va- er that’s fully oaked, almost to the point of being over- of patented leafy, earthy, roasted aromas and subse- nilla. This richness would be excessive without the min- done. A blend of 66% Malbec, 20% Cabernet and 14% quent entrance of brash, grabby tannins. Nutty, roast- erality and acidity that Sonoma Mountain brings. Don’t Tempranillo­. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. ed flavors of baked berry, toffee, coffee and earth come drink this too cold. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $45 next. VOS Selections. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $100 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Cruz Alta 2009 Chairman’s Blend Mal- Paul Hobbs 2010 Ulises Valdez Vineyard 88 bec-Cabernet­ Sauvignon-Syrah (Mendo- Casarena 2011 Esencia (Mendoza). This 94 Chardonnay­ (Russian River Valley). This za). This wine is smoky, with leather, berry and bar- 85 is an easy type of wine made from Malbec, Cab- hits the palate with a strong oak presence, marked by becue aromas that lurk below a veneer of oak. It has ernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It opens with simple, fa- flavors of buttered toast, butterscotch, honey and vanil- a good mouthfeel, with berry, plum and oak flavors. It miliar aromas of jammy berry and milk chocolate, fol- la. But the wine evolves to show rich tropical fruit fla- finishes bold, with a scratchy feel and loads of leftover lowed by a creamy-textured palate, with thickness and vors that are brightened by crisp acidity. It defines Cali- barrel spice. A blend of 85% Malbec, 10% Cabernet oaky flavors of hickory, raspberry jam and vanilla. Be- fornia’s modern take on white Burgundy. —S.H. Sauvignon and 5% Syrah­. Clock Tower Imports. —M.S. yond that, it doesn’t offer much complexity or nuance. abv: 14.3% Price: $70 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $12 Gary Farrell 2009 Rochioli Vineyard Finca Los Maza 2010 Maza Toncono- 92 Chardonnay­ (Russian River Valley). For 88 gy Cabernet-­Syrah (Mendoza). Smooth San Huberto 2009 Nina Cabernet Sauvi- full review see page 5. berry and chocolate aromas control the nose on this 83 gnon-Malbec (Aminga Valley). This Caber- abv: 14.2% Price: $45 Cabernet-­Syrah blend. On the palate, it’s lush and full, net-Malbec blend starts out with herbal, piquant aro- with a streak of citrusy acidity. Flavors of plum and ber- mas, with a twinge of volatility and a funky masa scent. Rochioli 2011 Estate Grown Chardonnay ry come with chocolate and vanilla accents. Regular on It’s pretty good on the palate, which is by far the wine’s 92 (Russian River Valley). For full review see the finish in terms of length, power and complexity. best point, but the flavors are earthy, nutty and herbal, page 5. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. rather than bright and focused. Tasted twice, this note abv: 14.5% Price: $46 abv: 13.9% Price: $16 reflects the better bottle. Jomada Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30 Dunstan 2010 Durell Vineyard Chardon- Bodega Tacuil 2010 RD (Calchaqui Val- 91 nay (Sonoma Coast). With its brisk acidity, 87 ley). This wine is herbal, prickly and roasted, Aconga 2011 Bonarda-Merlot (Mendo- minerality and dryness, this low-production Chardon- singing the Salta tune of oddness and earthiness. It feels 81 za). This is stalky smelling, with modest fruit nay shares similarities with Chablis. It has an intense medium to full in the mouth, with a roasted dark-berry and a burnt field aroma. It looks and tastes weak and core of Meyer lemons and guavas, with a veneer of flavor and plenty of herb and pimiento tones. Finish- transparent, with sourness rising up on the palate along sweet oak. —S.H. es deep but salty, with notes of roasted red pepper and with notes of citrus, cranberry and cherry pie. Winery abv: 14.2% Price: $40 stew. A blend of 80% Malbec and 20% Cabernet Sauvi- Exchange. —M.S. gnon. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2010 KARIA abv: 15% Price: $45 91 Chardonnay­ (Napa Valley). The cool 2010 vintage benefited this Chardonnay, giving it brisk acidity Hacienda del Plata 2009 Arriero Reserve CALIFORNIA and finesse. It’s very rich in orange, pineapple and apri- 87 Blend (Mendoza). This smells big but flat, cot flavors, with a thick jacket of sweet, caramelized oak. with rich, jammy scents of berry and cherry. The palate CHARDONNAY Drink now with rich fare, such as lobster bisque. —S.H. comes across heavy and grabby. Flavors of pastry, lactic abv: 13.5% Price: $35 plum, berry and cassis are heavily influenced with oak, Paul Hobbs 2010 Edwards James Estate while the finish is full in feel but short in flavor. A blend 95 Bato Selection Chardonnay (Russian Conn Creek 2011 Chardonnay (Napa of 62% Malbec, 26% Cabernet ­Sauvignon and 12% Syr- River Valley). This is a Chardonnay for red wine lov- 90 Valley). If you like the ripe, extravagantly oaky ah. ARGCA Imports. —M.S. ers. It’s full bodied and oaky, and it grows better as it style, you’ll love this Chardonnay. It has opulent fla- abv: 14.5% Price: $24 warms in the glass. Airing brings out sweet honey, or- vors of tropical fruit, buttered toast, caramel, vanilla ange jam, apricot and tropical fruit favors, yet the acid- and honey, which are brightened by acidity. Drink now. Ruca Malen 2011 Yauquen Malbec-Cab- ity and minerality also develop, providing balance. The —S.H. 86 ernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). A bit fiery oak develops too, with buttered toast and butterscotch abv: 14.5% Price: $25 and piercing upfront, this wine features fresh berry aro- notes bringing additional richness. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $75

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 La Follette 2010 Lorenzo Vineyard Char- Foodies 2011 Chardonnay (California). it could make for an alternative sipper to basic Char- 90 donnay (Russian River Valley). The opera- 86 This has a creamy texture, with flavors of but- donnay. —S.H. tive word here is “big.” It’s intense and powerful in or- tered toast, yeasty lees, pineapple, orange and honey, abv: 13.5% Price: $13 ange, peach and banana flavors, and its notes of cara- which are followed by brisk acids. Best Buy. —S.H. melized oak and vanilla are equally strong. Whether you abv: 13% Price: $8 Fat Cat 2011 Pinot Grigio (California). like this oversized profile is a matter of taste, but this 83 Made in the popular style, this tastes like an Chardonnay earns its score for sheer power and com- Frank Family 2011 Chardonnay (Napa apricot, mango and orange juice drink. It’s an easy sip- plexity. —S.H. 86 Valley). Heavy oak and lees were applied to per to drink alongside Chinese food. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $38 this wine’s rich, ripe flavors of tropical fruit, Meyer lem- abv: 12.5% Price: $10 on, orange and lime. It’s delicious, but it lacks nuance Wheelhouse 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma and complexity. —S.H. 90 County). This has ripe Sonoma flavors of abv: 14.4% Price: $35 SAUVIGNON BLANC green apples, pears and tropical fruits, along with bal- Longboard 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Rus- Lucky Star 2011 Chardonnay (Califor- ancing acids and a touch of honey-sweet oak. Overall, sian River Valley). Dry and tantalizingly com- nia). This earns its Best Buy designation for 90 it achieves harmonious balance. Production was 3,690 86 plex, with racy acidity and elegance. It shows Meyer the rich, creamy orange, peach and tropical fruit flavors cases. Worth a special search. Best Buy. —S.H. lemon, lime, pear and sweet gooseberry flavors, with and the note of caramel-tinged vanilla from oak aging. It abv: 13.5% Price: $9 a touch of vanilla and toast from oak aging. Editors’ tastes sweet, but it provides what many consumers love Choice. —S.H. Maddalena 2010 Chardonnay (Mon- Best Buy. about Chardonnay. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 88 terey). A solid wine that will appeal to Char- abv: 13.5% Price: $9 donnay fans for its rich creaminess, zesty acidity and Ma(i)sonry 2011 Hudson Vineyard Sauvi- Chime 2011 Chardonnay (Napa County). ripe tropical fruit, orange, lime, peach and honey fla- gnon Blanc (Napa Valley). This 100% Sauvi- Rich, ripe and oaky, this shows fruit-forward 88 vors. Crisp Monterey ­acidity keeps the tastebuds whis- 85 gnon Blanc is made in a ripe style, with refreshing acid- apricot, orange and pineapple flavors. The mouthfeel is tling. This is Maddelena’s best Chardonnay yet. Edi- ity. The complex flavors range from tart gooseberries, creamy and tastes buttery-sweet. Simple, but appealing tors’ Choice. —S.H. limes and kumquats to golden mangoes, with lots of va- in the modern Chardonnay way. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $15 nilla and sweet toast notes from the new oak. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 14% Price: $40 San Simeon 2010 Chardonnay (Mon- Heron 2011 Chardonnay (California). 88 terey). Lots of orange, mango, vanilla cream, Donovan-Parke 2011 Sauvignon Blanc This has lots of ripe orange, lime, apricot and buttered toast and cinnamon spice flavors characterize 85 (California). Made in the popular style, this tropical fruit flavors, as well as hints of buttered toast 85 this Chardonnay, which uses grapes that are sourced features flavors of Meyer lemon, orange, grass, vanil- and vanilla from oak aging. It’s made in the simple but mostly from the Arroyo Seco region. It tastes candied, la and white pepper. Although it’s sugary-tasting, it’s appealing popular style. —S.H. but refreshing acidity and a keen minerality lift it above brightened by acidity. Nice to drink with slightly sweet abv: 13% Price: $13 the ordinary. —S.H. Asian fare or popcorn shrimp. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Main & Geary 2011 Chardonnay (Califor- nia). Tuck Beckstoffer 2010 Semper Ulises 84 Standard and proper, this is made in the Lola Kay 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa popular style. It tastes sweet, with buttercream, but- 88 Chardonnay­ (Sonoma Coast). Strong in Valley). This is straightforward and easy, with tered popcorn, pineapple and peach flavors, followed by 85 citrus and tropical fruit flavors, powerful in oak, with sweet Meyer lemon, grass, honey and vanilla flavors. a smoky, oaky tone and good balancing acidity. —S.H. a blast of acidity, this is an ambitious Chardonnay, but Oak-free, it tastes like it might have a little residual sug- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 it’s a bit aggressive. It may calm down in a year or two. ar. —S.H. Meanwhile, decant it and enjoy with lobster or scallop abv: 14.1% Price: $16 dishes. —S.H. Shiloh Road 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). abv: 14.8% Price: $65 83 This will satisfy your Chardonnay One Hope 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Cali- sweet tooth with its flavors of orange and apricot jam, fornia). This has strong, pyrazine-like aromas pineapple and vanilla-cream. It’s pretty basic, but ben- 85 Donovan-Parke 2011 Chardonnay (Cali- that strike some people as skunky, but if you like that efits from crisp acidity. —S.H. 87 fornia). Sweet cream, butterscotch and vanilla New Zealand-style scent, it’s for you. It’s dry and crisp, abv: 13.5% Price: $17 flavors give this wine immediate appeal. Fortunately, it with citrus and vanilla flavors. —S.H. also has a good core of lemons, limes and tropical fruits. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 The richness is balanced with crisp acidity. —S.H. Olema 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coun- ty). abv: 13.5% Price: $15 82 This is a simple Chardonnay: It tastes Heron 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Mendoci- sweet, soft and creamy, with butter, caramel, orange and no County). Off-dry in honey, orange and mango flavors. —S.H. 84 Elements by Artesa 2010 Chardonnay peach flavors, but balanced by crisp acidity, this is a abv: 13.9% Price: $15 87 (Napa County-Sonoma County). With pleasant, everyday sipper. —S.H. sweet flavors of honey, pineapple, mango and pear, fol- abv: 13% Price: $14 lowed by an oak-driven buttered toast note, this deliv- ers more for the price than many Americans will expect. PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO Roth 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Alexander Zippy acidity keeps everything clean and balanced. Derby 2010 Derbyshire Vineyard Pinot 84 Valley). Off-dry to sweetish, this has hon- —S.H. 86 Gris (San Luis Obispo County). With no ey, orange, apricot, lime and vanilla flavors. It shows abv: 14.2% Price: $14 oak, this features straightforward lime, orange, nectar- Sauvignon’s­ clean, brisk acidity, but that taste of sweet- ine and white pepper flavors. The acidity is bright and ness limits its appeal. —S.H. One Hope 2010 Chardonnay (California). zesty, making it a versatile . —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $17 87 This is dry, crisp and clean. But if you’re looking abv: 13% Price: $20 for richness, you won’t find it. With its savory lemon, Sea Mist 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Rus- mineral and white pepper flavors, this is an elegant sip- Main & Geary 2011 Pinot Grigio (Califor- 82 sian River Valley). This is a simple Sauvignon per. —S.H. 85 nia). This offers flavors of lemon, lime and va- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 nilla, with clean, refreshing acidity. It’s a zesty wine, and

WineMag.com | 57 Blanc, with sugary-tasting apricot, orange and vanilla la flavors, brightened by crisp acidity. The blend is Sau- ing the backdrop for rich, concentrated flavors of lime, flavors, plus some vegetal notes. —S.H. vignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Viognier­. —S.H. raspberry, orange, brioche, mineral, vanilla and spice. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 14.1% Price: $14 It’s enjoyable now, a tête de cuvée that is among the best California­ bubblies of the year, and it will continue to Treana 2010 Marsanne-Viognier (Central develop bottle complexity for many years. —S.H. VIOGNIER 84 Coast). Very rich, but a little heavy, this fea- abv: 12.5% Price: $200 Zaca Mesa 2010 Estate Grown and Bot- tures orange, pineapple and mango flavors that are rem- iniscent of a juice drink. The sweet-tasting finish gives it Allure NV Bubbly Peach (California). For tled Viognier (Santa Ynez Valley). For full 91 a candied edge. —S.H. full review see page 9. review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. 87 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 10% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Kumbaya 2011 White (California). One Hope NV Brut (California). Curtis 2011 Viognier (Santa Barbara This This tastes tastes sweet, with vanilla, honey and orange jam a little sweet and a little scouring, but it’s a nice County). This expresses Viognier’s exotic side, 83 87 90 flavors. It’s clean and brisk in acidity. Pair it with every- everyday bubbly. With a creamy, yeasty flavor, it offers with mango, apricot, orange, honeysuckle, mineral, day fare. —S.H. pleasant­ pear, orange and vanilla notes. —S.H. spice and vanilla flavors that are accented by crisp acids. abv: 13.5% Price: $9 abv: 11% Price: $15 It’s a strong wine, with plenty of complexity—perfect for slightly sweet Asian fare. —S.H. Immersion 2011 White (California). This abv: 14.3% Price: $25 80 tastes soft, sweet and simple. The blend is Pi- CABERNET SAUVIGNON Mounts 2010 Viognier (Dry Creek Valley). not Gris, Chardonnay, Columbard and Gewurztramin- Goldschmidt 2007 Plus Single Vineyard er. —S.H. This tastes simple and sweet, with orange soda Selection Game Ranch Cabernet Sauvi- 82 abv: 12.5% Price: $10 96 and tropical fruit flavors that turn watery on the finish. gnon (Oakville). For full review see page 3. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $150 abv: 14.8% Price: $24 OTHER WHITE WINES Paul Hobbs 2009 Beckstoffer To Kalon Zaca Mesa 2009 Estate Grown and Bot- 96 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). WHITE BLENDS 93 tled Roussanne (Santa Ynez Valley). For This is a pinnacle of the modern style of winemaking in Editors’ Choice. Sanguis 2010 Out of Line (California). full review see page 4. Napa Valley. The tannins are strong but not aggressive. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 The acidity is just enough to provide balance for the tre- This is a blend of Chardonnay and Roussanne, 93 mendously rich blackberry, black currant, Kahlua and which were grown in Santa Barbara County’s Watch Zaca Mesa 2010 Estate Grown and Bot- olive flavors. The oak is powerful, but the wine wears it Hill and Bien Nacido vineyards. It’s extraordarily rich in tled Grenache Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). easily. The finish is thoroughly dry, long and spicy. And orange and mango flavors, with new oak notes of vanilla 91 To call this a fun wine—which it is­—is to suggest that although the alcohol is high, it’s not impossible. You can and buttered toast. Crisp acidity and stony minerality it’s not complex and compelling, which it also is. It fea- drink it now, although the tannins could benefit from provide good balance. The richness suggests drinking tures brilliant acidity and orange-like intensity, remain- 6–8 years in the cellar. —S.H. with lobster, crab and scallop dishes. —S.H. ing bone dry despite its honey-tinged finish. Pair it with abv: 15.2% Price: $275 abv: 14.8% Price: $60 Chinese chicken dishes. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Tierra Roja 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Tablas Creek 2010 Esprit de Beaucas- (Oakville). Cellar tel Blanc Grown & Bottled on the Es- 95 For full review see page 3. 92 Bailiwick 2011 Vermentino (California). Selection. tate Roussanne-Grenache Blanc-Picpoul Blanc This wine is so good, it could make Vermentino abv: 14.8% Price: $130 (Paso Robles). For full review see page 6. 90 the next big thing—except there’s so little of the vari- abv: 13.5% Price: $40 ety planted in California­. Bright and juicy in acidity, it Paul Hobbs 2009 Beckstoffer Las Pie- dras Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Curtis 2011 Heritage Blanc (Santa Bar- has flavors of citrus and tropical fruit, apricot, peach and 94 honeysuckle. It finishes dry and spicy; pair it with pasta Helena). This hovers on the verge of overripeness, with bara County). This fun, delicious wine tastes 88 in pesto sauce. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. a hint of raisin, but it wisely pulls back at the last second generous in honey, pear, Meyer lemon, orange, nec- abv: 14.1% Price: $18 into a luscious fortress of blackberry, cassis, chocolate tarine and white flower flavors, which are balanced by and sweet smoky oak. So smooth and luxurious on the zesty acids. The blend is Grenache Blanc, Roussanne Curtis 2011 Roussanne (Santa Barba- palate, the texture dazzles, despite some heat. The all- and Viognier­. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. ra County). One of the better Roussannes abv: 14.3% Price: $20 90 important tannins are nearly perfect. Drink now–2016, out there, this is dry with balanced acidity, showing a especially with steak. —S.H. Tablas Creek 2011 Patelin de Tablas creamy mouthfeel, plus complex citrus, butterscotch, abv: 15.1% Price: $175 Blanc Grenache Blanc-Viognier-Rous- mineral and spice flavors. It has many food-pairing pos- 88 sibilities. —S.H. Robert Craig 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon sanne-Marsanne (Paso Robles). For full review abv: 14.5% Price: $25 (Howell Mountain). This hits the jackpot. You see page 9. Editors’ Choice. 94 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 taste it and are struck by its incredible richness, but then Fat Cat 2011 Moscato (California). For full the balance kicks in, making it all the more impressive. Best Buy. Tablas Creek 2011 Côtes de Tablas Blanc 87 review see page 10. It shows intense mountain flavors of blackberry, cur- abv: 10% Price: $10 86 (Paso Robles). A blend of Viognier, Grenache rant and dark chocolate, which are set into firm tannins. Blanc, Marasanne and Roussanne­, this is very generous, New oak brings delicious layers of vanilla and buttered offering orange, pear, honeysuckle and vanilla flavors. SPARKLING WINES toast. So good now, you can hardly keep your hands off However, the oak seems a little heavy-handed. —S.H. the cork, but it should develop for many years. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $27 Schramsberg 1997 J. Schram Late Dis- abv: 14.8% Price: $80 96 gorged 150th Anniversary Release (Na- Bowtie 2010 Showtime (California). This pa-Monterey-Mendocino). This spectacular brut- Steven Kent 2009 Smith Ranch Caber- 84 tastes honey-sweet, with apricot, lime and vanil- style sparkler that’s made from Chardonnay and Pinot 93 net Sauvignon­ (Livermore Valley). This re- Noir still has plenty of tart acidity and yeastiness, provid- fined, gorgeous and integrated Cabernet features ripe

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 raspberry and cassis flavors, with a subtle swirl of cin- ery, this one’s worth seeking out. It’s suited to pair with flavor, but it’s a bit surprising if you are not used to it in namon and a wall of supple tannins. This wine will age anything braised or roasted. Let it age for another 5–7 your wine. —V.B. another 5–7 years. Pair it with a steak. —V.B. years. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $65 abv: 14.8% Price: $65 abv: 14.6% Price: $65 Valley Legend 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Aiken 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Trinchero 2009 Central Park West Cab- 87 (Napa Valley). This Cabernet starts out tight 92 Mountain). For full review see page 4. Cellar 91 ernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). Marked by and resistant. Although it has plenty of ripe cherry and Selection. intensely concentrated, sweet-tasting cassis liqueur fla- blackberry fruit, there’s something pinched about the abv: 14.4% Price: $75 vors, this single-vineyard 100% Cabernet is rich and mouthfeel. It’s a good wine that will benefit from airing, oaky. With a dramatic texture of finely ground tannins but doesn’t seem likely to improve in the cellar. —S.H. Aiken 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Ruther- and citrusy acids, it will develop over the next 5–6 years. abv: 14.6% Price: $55 92 ford). Atypical of a Rutherford Cabernet, this —S.H. is in fact unlike most of today’s expensive Cabernets abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Zahtila 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Calis- from anywhere in Napa Valley. It’s aggressively tannic 87 toga). This is a luscious, young Cabernet that’s and dry, and it seems emulate an older style, though the Steven Kent 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon filled with blackberry and cherry jam flavors, with a alcohol is considerably higher than anything from the 90 (Livermore Valley). Using fruit sourced from touch of overripe prune. It doesn’t seem like an ager, old days. With a core of blackberries and black currants, Ghielmetti Ranch, Home Ranch and Folkendt vine- but it’s dry, and shows classically rich, smooth Napa tan- it may well develop bottle complexity over the years. yards, this is comprised of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, nins. —S.H. —S.H. with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. This abv: 14.4% Price: $52 abv: 14.9% Price: $125 is Steven Kent’s most approachable Cabernet; It’s lush and concentrated, with bright flavors of grenadine and Maddalena 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Bentley 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon hazelnut, plus straightforward tannins. Ready to drink 85 (Paso Robles). This full-bodied, tannic Cab- 92 (Oakville). Soft, smooth and delicious, this now, it will still be vibrant in 5–7 years. —V.B. ernet features a simple delivery of ripe blackberries, offers a beautiful example of the modern cult style of abv: 14.4% Price: $48 cherries and sweet red currants. Pair it with everyday flashy drinkability. It tastes expensive, with refined tan- fare. —S.H. nins and ripe blackberry, cassis and oak flavors. This Tierra Roja 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.5% Price: $17 could be an ager. From Laura Zahtila. —S.H. 90 (Oakville). This is showing a little wear and abv: 13.5% Price: $125 tear at its current stage, and the heat of the vintage is ap- Mia Nipote Winery 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- parent in the raisiny note that is starting to emerge. It’s 85 gnon (Livermore Valley). Thick and aromat- Dry Creek Vineyard 2008 Endeavour an extravagant expression, flaunting its rich tannins and ically muted, this is a Cabernet Sauvignon that’s walled 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry Creek Valley). east Oakville pedigree. Drink over the next 2–3 years with big tannins and is heavily laden with coconut and For full review see page 5. before it fades away. —S.H. nut flavors. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 abv: 14.8% Price: $125 abv: 14.8% Price: $39

Spring Mountain Vineyard 2009 Estate Artesa 2009 Artisan Series Cabernet Deep Sea 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 92 Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- 89 Sauvignon­ (Napa Valley). This is a rich Cab- 84 (Napa Valley). With sugary, jellied flavors ley). This is rich, soft and vibrant in blackberry, blue- ernet, powerful in cherry- and blackberry-pie-filling fla- of cherry­ and berry, along with abundant oak-derived berry jam and mocha flavors, which are wrapped into vors, which are compounded by the sweet taste of cara- notes of sweet buttered toast and vanilla-cream, this is complex tannins, finishing dry and spicy. This shows su- melized oak. The tannins are soft and easy to drink now. easy to drink. —S.H. perior pedigree. —S.H. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $32 abv: 14.8% Price: $75 abv: 14.5% Price: $46 Newman’s Own 2010 Cabernet Sauvi- Trinchero 2009 Cloud’s Nest Vineyard Heron 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali- 84 gnon (California). Newman ventures beyond 92 Cabernet­ Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). 87 fornia). Blended from Mendocino, Clarksburg producing spaghetti sauce and salad dressing with this This showcases the winery’s style of ripe fruit, soft tex- (Delta) and Pope Valley fruit, this easy-drinking Cab is berry-­scented Cabernet. It’s dry, tannic and good for ev- ture and considerable oak than it does Mount Veeder’s very ripe in blackberries and cherries, but also shows eryday consumption. —S.H. terroir, but nonetheless, it’s delicious. Made from 100% a good structure of tannins and acids. The alcohol is abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Cabernet, it’s power-packed with flavors of blackber- refreshingly low. A good price for a wine so satisfying. ry and cherry jam, chocolate and vanilla-tinged toast. —S.H. Roth 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexan- Drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $14 84 der Valley). This is an everyday Cabernet, dry, abv: 14.7% Price: $70 tannic and somewhat green, with tobacco and cherry James Mitchell 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- flavors. It lacks generosity, which no amount of decant- Trinchero 2009 Mario’s Vineyard Caber- 87 gnon (Lodi). A great value Cabernet that’s ing or aging will help. —S.H. 92 net Sauvignon­ (St. Helena). Made in a ripe, earthy and direct, this has just enough flavors of red and abv: 14.5% Price: $29 oaky style, this 100% Cabernet has powerful blackberry black cherry and tobacco, with soft tannins that keep and cassis flavors that are a little warm. Its 95% new the wine interesting through the long, slightly spicy fin- San Simeon 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon French oak is evident in the smoke, vanilla, toast and ish. There are handfuls of estate-grown Petit Verdot, 84 (Paso Robles). At more than four years of caramel notes. It’s a very tannic wine that locks down Petite Sirah, Merlot and Malbec ­in the mix. Pair it with age, this Cabernet is as good as it will ever be. It’s sharp the palate with dry astringency. All indications suggest hamburgers. —V.B. in acids and a little green, but offers satisfying berry, the cellar. Give it at least eight years. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.9% Price: $15 cherry and oak flavors. —S.H. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.7% Price: $70 Steven Kent 2009 Home Ranch Vineyard 87 Cabernet­ Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). Edge 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (North Steven Kent 2009 Folkendt Vineyard This lovely Cabernet is marked by a strong scent and 83 Coast). A straightforward Cabernet, with 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). taste of mint that’s tremendously pleasing if you like that tastes of brick, tar, tobacco and cranberry, this is a blend This is a finely tuned Cabernet with dark blue-and- of Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino and Lake County fruit. black fruit tones and concentrated shovelings of earth —V.B. and mushroom. A new vineyard designate for the win- abv: 13.8% Price: $20

WineMag.com | 59 Mounts 2009 Estate Grown Cabernet entirely dry yet sweetly fruity. A little soft, but beauti- fare like hamburger, chicken and sausage. It’s dry, tart 83 Sauvignon­ (Dry Creek Valley). You’ll find ful now, this is perfect for most grilled or roasted beef and tannic, with notes of sweet-and-sour cherry-fla- solid blackberry, black currant, herb and oak flavors in dishes. —S.H. vored Lifesaver and blackberry candy. —S.H. this Cabernet, but the texture is rough and hot, with abv: 13.9% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 weird acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $40 Wattle Creek 2010 Malbec (Alexander Shiloh Road 2011 Merlot (Sonoma Coun- 90 Valley). This is smooth and sweet-tasting, 84 ty). Simple and candied, this features cherry Shiloh Road 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon with dark chocolate, blackberry, blueberry and smoky Lifesaver and mint flavors. It expresses the basic Merlot 83 (Sonoma­ County). Here’s a sweet, simple oak flavors, balanced with fine acidity. The tannins are profile in a soft, appealing way. —S.H. Cabernet, offering black cherry, chocolate and spice fla- strong, just what you’d expect from Malbec, making this abv: 14% Price: $17 vors. Drink now. —S.H. a great partner for steak. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $17 abv: 14.8% Price: $38 Clos La Chance 2009 Merlot (Central 82 Coast). This feels scouring and rough, and the Clos La Chance 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- Swirl 2010 Lockwood Oaks Vineyard raisin and currant flavors finish green and sharp. —S.H. 81 gnon (Central Coast). Sharp and rough in 84 Malbec (San Antonio Valley). This is a ba- abv: 14.5% Price: $15 the mouth, this features tobacco, green bell pepper and sic Malbec, dark in color, dry and tannic. It has black- modest berry flavors. —S.H. berry, currant and leather flavors that lack some inten- Fat Cat 2010 Merlot (California). This has abv: 13.5% Price: $15 sity. —S.H. 80 medicinal, sweet-tasting flavors of chocolate abv: 14.4% Price: $18 and cherry. —S.H. Peirano 2010 Heritage Collection Caber- abv: 12.5% Price: $10 81 net Sauvignon (Lodi). This Lodi Cabernet is Mounts 2009 Estate Grown Malbec (Dry priced to sell, but it has a sweltering swath of green pep- 83 Creek Valley). Hot in alcohol and seemingly per. —V.B. sweet in black currant and chocolate flavors, this is big GRENACHE abv: 13.8% Price: $12 and powerful, but rustic. Drink it with a cheeseburger. Bokisch 2010 Terra Alta Vineyard Gar- —S.H. nacha (Clements Hills). For full review see Calcareous 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 91 abv: 14.8% Price: $30 page 6. (York Mountain). 80 This is just barely drinkable, abv: 14.5% Price: $18 with modest blackberry fruit. It’s hot and Port-like, right through the raisiny finish. —S.H. MERLOT Zaca Mesa 2010 Estate Grown and Bot- abv: 14.8% Price: $36 Trinchero 2009 Vista Montone Vineyard 88 tled Grenache (Santa Ynez Valley). A little 88 Daybreak Block Merlot (Napa Valley). one-dimensional but still delicious, this has wave after CABERNET FRANC This is sweet-tasting, with ripe fruit that combines with wave of ripe cherry-pie flavor. Smoky, sweet oak brings a toasty oak note, producing a rich, opulent bottling. It’s an alluring vanilla note, and the mouthfeel is soft and Bailiwick 2010 Cabernet Franc (Russian dramatic and appealing, if a little direct in its charms. silky. Try pairing this with beef tartare. —S.H. 90 River Valley). Medium bodied and dry, this Drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 has a savory spiciness, with long-lasting flavors of cher- abv: 13.9% Price: $50 ry and smoky, vanilla-scented oak. A coating of finely Mounts 2009 Estate Grenache (Dry ground tannins gives it enough bite to accompany steak. Magness 2010 Merlot (Napa Valley). This 87 Creek Valley). This is soft, sweetly fruity and One of the best Cabernet Francs from the Russian Riv- 87 is a nice, smooth Merlot, perfect for everyday hot in alcohol. It has a rich, tart cherry flavor, with a er Valley in a long time. —S.H. drinking. It’s dry and rich in tannins, with blackberry, toasty, buttery layer. Good, but a bit one-dimensional. abv: 13.6% Price: $28 currant, smoked meat and oak flavors. —S.H. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $20 abv: 15% Price: $30 Trinchero 2009 Central Park West Cab- 90 ernet Franc (St. Helena). Made in a small Toad Hollow 2009 Richard McDowell production, this is a very fine 100% Cabernet Franc. It’s 87 Vineyard Merlot (Russian River Valley). MOURVÈDRE rich and dramatic in cherry compote and herb flavors, This is a little rustic in tannins, but it has plenty of La Clarine Farm 2011 Cedarville Mourvè- with smoke and buttered toast notes from the use of charm. It offers pleasure with its cherry, berry, tobacco 95 dre (Sierra Foothills). Light in color, alcohol French oak barrels. The tannins are significant, coming and spice flavors, plus a jacket of smoky oak. Nice as an and texture, this dynamic wine has a fresh pepper flavor, from both the grapes and the wood. Give it 4–5 years to everyday sipper. —S.H. and is gorgeous all around, like drinking fresh rose pet- soften and mellow. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $13 als. This could be enjoyed all day long, every day, but abv: 13.6% Price: $60 with only 51 cases produced, get it now or you’ll miss One Hope 2010 Merlot (California). This out on it. —V.B. Conn Creek 2010 Cabernet Franc (Napa 85 isn’t particularly Merlot-like. But it is a likeable, abv: 11.7% Price: $24 87 Valley). Soft and gently sweet-tasting, this easy-drinking wine, with lots of savory spices and layers has red cherry, vanilla, spice and sandalwood flavors. of cola, cherry and tobacco notes. A juicy burger will be La Clarine Farm 2011 Suma Kaw Mourvè- There’s a note of green pea that’s pleasantly earthy. the perfect pairing. —S.H. 93 dre (Sierra Foothills). There’s magic up in Drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Hank Beckmeyer’s hills. The Suma Kaw Vineyard in abv: 13.5% Price: $30 the Sierra Foothills is a prized source for Rhône variet- Hawkstone 2011 Barney’s Heritage Cu- ies, where the Mourvèdre typically gets blended in with vée Merlot ­(Napa Valley). While this is 84 Syrah, but not here, where it is given room to exude thin and reedy, it has a good mouthfeel, with elegantly MALBEC fresh, bright, earthy tones amid an intensity of raspber- sculpted tannins and nice dryness. Its flavors veer to- Opaque 2009 Malbec (Paso Robles). This ry, strawberry and just-ripe cherry. A hint of leather sur- ward sour cherry candy and herb. —S.H. is a Malbec of great volume and huge extract. faces on the finish. —V.B. 90 abv: 13.5% Price: $29 The first thing that’s noticed are the gigantic blackberry, abv: 12.4% Price: $24 dark chocolate and sweet cedar flavors. Then the tan- San Simeon 2008 Merlot (Paso Robles). nins kick in, which are big and astringent. Finally, the This is a decent wine to serve with barbecued finish lasts for an impressively long time, and it tastes 84

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 Bokisch 2010 Belle Colline Vineyard Syrah ­. The blackberry, black currant, mocha and lico- spice, it’s ready to drink now. An everyday wine that’ll 91 Monastrell (Clements Hills). For full re- rice flavors have a long, peppery finish. Drink now. pair well with meaty dishes covered in sauce. —V.B. view see page 6. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $21 abv: 15.2% Price: $28 Mounts 2008 Petasera Reserve Petite Lava Cap 2010 Estate Syrah (El Dorado). 87 Sirah (Dry Creek Valley). Here’s a soft, high- SYRAH 88 A dense Syrah, this dances with black plum and alcohol effort with Petite Sirah’s big tannins and plenty blackberry flavors, with soft tannins and medium heft. of ripe, briary blackberry and mocha flavors. It’s a robust Sanguis 2009 Six White Horses Syrah Tufts of spice and earth round out the finish. This is just sipper whose sweet glycerine note will provide a good (California). Winemaker Matthias Pippig 97 right for wintertime, ideal for cassoulet or other kinds of foil for grilled meats. —S.H. brings Syrah­ to a whole new level with this stunning- thick stews. —V.B. abv: 15.2% Price: $55 ly dramatic bottling. Don’t worry about the California abv: 14.7% Price: $21 appellation, a peculiarity of the winery’s ownership. It’s Earthquake 2010 Petite Sirah (Lodi). A gi- made entirely from Santa Barbara grapes, namely from Graziano 2009 Syrah (Mendocino). Big, gantic mouthful of sinewy tannins, Earthquake Watch Hill in Los Alamos and Bien Nacido in Santa 86 toasty and brooding at first, this calms down and Petite­ is big and generously loaded with dark plum and Maria Valley. The intensity of fruit defies description. 87 becomes a glass of pleasing dark fruits and soft tannins, raspberry flavors. A highway of bittersweet chocolate It suggests enormous blackberry and creamy-sweet with a lilt of spice. A fine midweek wine that will pair and tar circle through the sizeable finish. Drink it with chocolate, larded with bacon and sprinkled with black with a range of meats and taste perfectly good on its rich, hearty food. —V.B. pepper­—and that doesn’t even begin to describe the own. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $26 toasty sweetness of the 100% new oak barrels. This is abv: 14.5% Price: $18 the best California Syrah of the vintage, and one of the Penumbra 2010 Petite Sirah (North greatest Syrahs­ the state has ever produced. This op- Klinker Brick Winery 2010 Farrah Syrah 86 Coast). It’s hard to get around the tannins ulence comes at a cost, however: The alcohol is high. 87 (Lodi). A Syrah for all the California Zin lovers that battle in this wine, which is savory and dark with a —S.H. out there, this is heavy and brimming with dark cherry smoky aura. Lay it down another couple of years or let it abv: 15.6% Price: $75 flavor amid a wall of tannins, leather and earth. —V.B. air out a bit before pouring. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $23 Zaca Mesa 2009 Black Bear Block Estate 96 Grown and Bottled Syrah (Santa Ynez Cedar Creek Ranch & Vineyards 2008 The Crusher 2011 Petite Sirah (Clarks- Valley). For full review see page 3. 82 Syrah (Fair Play). This Sierra Foothills Syrah 86 burg). A dark, jammy explosion of baked red abv: 14.5% Price: $60 from the very promising area of Fair Play. It tastes of fruit and blackberry, this is marked by its toasty oak and stewed raspberry and feels slightly syrupy, possibly due its subtle hint of bacon, benefitting from breathing for Zaca Mesa 2009 Mesa Reserve Estate to overripe fruit. —V.B. 10–20 minutes before drinking. Full in body and tan- Grown and Bottled Syrah (Santa Ynez 93 abv: 14.6% Price: $36 nin, it has a vanilla-infused finish. —V.B. Valley). For full review see page 4. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $44 PETITE SIRAH Bray 2008 Petite Sirah (Shenandoah Val- Zaca Mesa 2009 Eight Barrel Estate ley). This opens with a smack of bright red Grown and Bottled Syrah (Santa Ynez Grgich Hills 2008 Miljenko’s Vineyard Es- 85 92 fruit, dark plum and leathery pouch overtones, with a Valley). There’s a soft voluptuousness to this Syrah that tate Grown Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). For 93 slight hint of licorice on the finish. Pair with big, bold makes it instantly drinkable. It’s intense in blackberry, full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. foods. —V.B. cassis, mocha and grilled prosciutto notes, with lots of abv: 14.8% Price: $55 abv: 15.5% Price: $20 new French-oak influence adding toast, vanilla and car- Sheldon 2007 Deviant Velocity-Ripken amel flavors. As sweet as it tastes, it finishes dry, long Mounts 2009 Estate Petite Sirah (Dry Vineyard Petite Sirah (Lodi). A complex, and spicy. —S.H. 91 Creek Valley). Soft, hot and somewhat simple, dark-cherry-­flavored Petite Sirah, this is marked by 85 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 this Petite Sirah has blackberry, espresso, black pepper bright fruit and tame tannins, giving the wine a mouth- and dark chocolate flavors. It’s a good wine for drinking Spring Mountain Vineyard 2009 Estate watering vibrancy. Intense but full of life, bottle aging now with barbecue slathered in rich sauce. —S.H. Bottled Syrah (Napa Valley). Here’s a tight, has helped this wine, as it often does with a variety like 91 abv: 15.2% Price: $28 focused controlled Syrah. It shows the fierce tannins of Petite Sirah, which can be overwhelming when young. In this case, the years have opened it up, lending an ele- its mountain origin, plus intense blackberry jam, cas- San Simeon 2008 Petite Sirah (Paso Ro- gance that makes the wine ideal for meaty foods. —V.B. sis and beef jerky flavors. Drinkable now, but it really bles). Classic warm-climate Petite Sirah, this abv: 13.6% Price: $28 85 needs a few years to mellow. The estate vineyard is on is inky-black, with bone-dry, hard tannins, yet it shows Spring Mountain in the Mayacamas range. Cellar Se- Cedar Creek Ranch & Vineyards 2008 some softness. It bears blackberry, dark chocolate, black lection. —S.H. pepper and cured meat flavors. A little rustic and one- Estate Petite­ Sirah (Fair Play). A bold, abv: 14.4% Price: $55 88 dimensional, but fine for barbecue. —S.H. brawny Petite Sirah from the Sierra Foothills, this is gi- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Zaca Mesa 2009 Estate Grown and Bot- gantic and muscular. It has big expressions of milk choc- olate and red raspberry, with puckering tannins that are 91 tled Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). For full re- Lucky Star 2011 Petite Sirah (California). interesting and built to age. Licorice, spice and a hint of view see page 7. This is drinkable but not overly interesting, with smoky violet mark the rest of its profile. —V.B. 82 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 a good berry flavor. It’s marked with an off-putting aro- abv: 15.5% Price: $34 ma of cigarette ash, and it feels raw. —S.H. Cerro Prieto 2009 El Bordo Reserve Syr- abv: 13.5% Price: $9 90 ah (Paso Robles). For full review see page 7. Artezin 2010 Petite Sirah (Mendocino County). This is a concentrated, leathery Pe- abv: 16.8% Price: $39 87 Pennywise 2011 Petite Sirah (California). tite Sirah, with gobs of milk chocolate, mellowed tan- Soft and simple, this has notes of raspberry Pop Mounts 2009 Estate Syrah (Dry Creek nins and decent depth. With a back layer of peppery 82 Tart, vanilla, buttered cinnamon toast and brown sugar. Valley). Sweet-tasting, jammy fruit and lots 90 —S.H. of camarmelized new oak mark this young, exuberant abv: 13.5% Price: $12

WineMag.com | 61 Main & Geary 2011 Petite Sirah (Califor- Mounts 2009 Old Vines Estate Zinfandel tive last vintage. Still, it’s worth tasting for the sake of 81 nia). Dry and clean, this has modest cherry- 89 (Dry Creek Valley). Very rich and fruity, with understanding the vicissitudes of vineyard, vintage and berry flavors. It’s rustic and raw in texture, with a harsh jammy raspberry and cherry flavors that taste almost vintner. —V.B. finish. —S.H. dessert sweet, this also offers a delicious note of black abv: 15% Price: $36 abv: 14% Price: $18 currant sprinkled with hints of cinnamon and brown sugar. A great barbecue wine. The alcohol is a little high, Renwood 2010 Premier Old Vine Zinfan- but that’s customary of Dry Creek Zin. —S.H. 87 del (Amador County). Renwood is slowly ZINFANDEL abv: 15.2% Price: $30 coming back to life in Amador after having been bought by a group of international investors with interests in Elyse 2009 Black-Sears Vineyard Zinfan- Newsome-Harlow 2010 Zinfandel (Calav- Argentina ­ and Uruguay. Premier is a good first step, un- del (Howell Mountain). There’s a delicious 93 eras County). Tight and concentrated at first, doubtedly a powerhouse, bearing smoky, tannic moun- approachability to this Zinfandel that makes it drinkable 89 this opens up with air, exuding an array of blue and red tain fruit and layers of toffee, blackberry and dark rasp- now despite having some formidable Howell Mountain fruit aromas and flavors, most prominently raspberry, berry, with a bass line of spice. —V.B. tannins. In that, it calls to mind the wonderful 2008. with a chocolate chaser on the finish. A blend of Zin abv: 15.5% Price: $20 The flavors are enormously concentrated, with notes of from four different vineyards—plus 14% Petite Sirah— blackberry, black currant, cured meat, black pepper and aged mostly in new American oak, this is a crowd-pleas- Klinker Brick Winery 2010 Old Vine Zin- baking spice, lending terrific complexity that changes ing wine that is a great representation of the region. fandel (Lodi). A classically bombastic Lodi in the glass with every sip. It displays Zinfandel’s wild, 86 —V.B. Zin, this is sweet and soft, direct in its embrace of brambly character while preserving Napa’s elegance abv: 14.4% Price: $24 American oak. A note of vanilla marks the finish, plus a and balance. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. healthy dollop of alcohol. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $37 St. Francis 2010 Monticello Vineyard abv: 15.8% Price: $19 Kaarin’s Terrace Zinfandel (Sonoma Val- Newsome-Harlow 2010 Big John Zinfan- 89 ley). The alcohol is very high on this Zin, but it wears Renwood 2010 Timberline Zinfandel del (Calaveras County). Deep and delicious 92 its heat and glycerine well, becoming part of the wine’s (Amador County). This has very dark fruit with inviting layers of raspberry and berry cobbler, Big 86 overall personality. It bears includes ripe, brambly fla- swirling around in serious concentrations. Dense and John is a brambly, structured Zin, with bright zaps of vors of blackberry, raisin, mocha, black pepper and ex- brooding, it’s dominated by leather and tobacco flavors, black pepper and clove, plus a long, satisfying finish. otic spice, with thick, fine tannins. Defines this style of finishing with sticky, dusty tannins. —V.B. This is perhaps the best Zin in all of Calaveras County Sonoma Zinfandel. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $40 right now. —V.B. abv: 16% Price: $45 abv: 14.7% Price: $36 St. Francis 2010 Three Valleys Zinfandel Fiddletown Cellars 2010 Old Vine Zinfan- (Sonoma­ County). Here’s a big, overripe Zin- Newsome-Harlow 2010 Shake Ridge 86 del (Amador County). This is a dense, chewy fandel, with raisin, prune and molasses flavors. The al- Ranch Zinfandel (Amador County). This is 88 91 Zin with lush berry flavors. It has notes of blackberry cohol is very high, and the finish is bone dry and tannic. a savory Zin with a leathery coffee tone that’s also de- juice and tar, with hints of tobacco and vanilla on the Really captures this outsized Sonoma Zin style. Drink lightfully fresh and marked by red fruit notes. Cerebral, back palate. Made from old vines and blended with 6% now with barbecue. —S.H. with noticeable acidity and a long finish, the wine is Barbera and 4% . —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $40 reminiscent of a fine bottle of crème de violette, flow- abv: 14.8% Price: $19 ery—yet rich. —V.B. Chacewater 2010 Zinfandel (Sierra Foot- abv: 14.7% Price: $36 Plungerhead 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel 85 hills). This is full of sweet-tasting blackberry, (Dry Creek Valley). raspberry and vanilla flavors, with a backbeat of dusty Newsome-Harlow 2010 The Donner Par- 88 For full review see page Editors’ Choice. tannins. It’s medium bodied with decent structure, and ty The Dalton Ranch Zinfandel (Calav- 9. 90 abv: 14.5% Price: $18 the finish features with notes of smoke and tar. —V.B. eras County). Dripping with notes of juicy black fruit, abv: 15.5% Price: $18 sweet tobacco and clove, this is layered and full-bod- Klinker Brick Winery 2010 Marisa Vine- ied, with soft tannins and an intensity that should grow yard Zinfandel­ (Lodi). Dark as Petite Sirah, Mounts 2009 Estate Zinfandel (Dry Creek more intriguing with age. From the gorgeous Calaveras­ 87 this is a huge, dark old-vine Zinfandel that’s dominated Valley). A sound, everyday Zinfandel, this may County Dalton Vineyard, this is blended with 11% Pe- 85 by berry and oak flavors. It’s smooth and soft, finishing be a little green and underripe, but it does show some tite Sirah, also from Dalton. —V.B. with rivers of milk chocolate and caramel. —V.B. berry-cherry flavor. The alcohol is very high. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $36 abv: 15.8% Price: $30 abv: 15.2% Price: $18 Zahtila 2008 Oat Hill Estate Zinfandel Klinker Brick Winery 2010 Old Ghost One Hope 2011 Zinfandel (California). (Calistoga­). Very ripe and soft, this has black- 90 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). This is called While this Zin is pretty standard fare, it features berry, plum and chocolate flavors that veer toward 87 85 Old Ghost because the fruit used to make the wine is plenty of ripe, upfront raspberry and cherry notes, with prune and raisin territory. It’s dry, spicy and a little hot, sourced from old vines. It’s big, thick and dense, with the spiciness that makes Zinfandel so savory. The ap- but is a great example of a warm-climate Zin at the high- layers of ripe blackberry, tar and smoky oak. A cigar parent sweetness is nicely balanced by acidity. —S.H. est level. —S.H. smoker’s kind of wine, this is a grand old Lodi Zin. abv: 11.1% Price: $15 abv: 14.9% Price: $45 —V.B. abv: 15.9% Price: $37 St. Francis 2010 Old Vines Zinfandel (So- Frank Family 2010 Zinfandel (Napa Val- noma County). High alcohol gives this wine ley). This is definitely high in alcohol, with a 85 89 Newsome-Harlow 2010 Frank Herbert distinct heat, as well as a sweet, glycerine-driven edge. notable chili pepper burn, but that’s the winery’s style. Vineyard Zinfandel (El Dorado County). The wild blackberry, prune and pepper flavors are char- Without that ripeness, you wouldn’t have these intense, 87 Planted in the 1970s, the Frank Herbert Vineyard is acteristic of ripe Zinfandel. —S.H. briary blackberry and mulberry flavors. Notes of choco- owned by winemaker Marco Cappelli. Newsome-Har- abv: 15.8% Price: $20 late, raisin, anise liqueur and exotic spice provide ad- low winemaker Scott Klann made a great Zin from this ditional complexity. This is a Zin that needs rich, oily vineyard in 2009, but the 2010 seems sweeter, dialed Bargetto 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). meats and cheeses to balance it out. —S.H. up on a lot of levels, with more intensity of fruit and 84 This is a simple Lodi Zinfandel made using fruit abv: 15% Price: $37 alcohol and less of the savory spice that was so attrac-

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 from old vines. It tastes of juicy, brambly blackberry. Cambria 2010 Estate Grown & Bottled 5–6 years to let the raspberry and cola flavors integrate —V.B. 94 Clone No. 4 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Val- with the oak. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $18 ley). For full review see page 3. abv: 14.2% Price: $44 abv: 14.9% Price: $52 St. Francis 2010 Amann Vineyard Old Davies 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). 84 Vines Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). This Cambria 2010 Barbara’s Clone 667 Pinot 92 Sparkling wine specialist Schramsberg ventures tastes almost like a , with strong alcohol 93 Noir (Santa Maria­ Valley). For full review out to the Fort Ross area to tinker with Pinot Noir un- heat boosting very dry wild-blackberry, pepper and see page 4. der its Davies brand. This shows intensity and concen- prune flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $80 tration, with powerful raspberry and cherry essences abv: 16.1% Price: $45 that are compounded by sweet-tasting, smoky oak. Im- Sequana 2010 Sundawg Ridge Vineyard pressive now, but it should gain traction in the bottle St. Francis 2010 Rowe Vineyard Zinfan- 93 Pinot­ Noir (Green Valley). This bears a silky over the next four years. —S.H. 84 del (Sonoma Valley). High alcohol makes texture that’s light and pleasant on the palate, but there’s abv: 14.8% Price: $50 this wine seem hot. It’s also very dry, and rich, oily foods nothing light about the flavors. It offers blasts of ripe, will coax out its sweet berry essence. —S.H. pure raspberry, cherry and Dr. Pepper, with lots of ex- Domaine Carneros 2009 The Famous abv: 15.8% Price: $45 otic spice. Decant and drink now, but it should also age 92 Gate Pinot­ Noir (Carneros). This is the win- for up to eight years. —S.H. ery’s best new Pinot Noir. Essentially a barrel selection, Zahtila 2008 Mayo Family Vineyards Old abv: 14.2% Price: $50 using different clones from multiple sites in the estate 84 Vine Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). An vineyard, it’s spicy and dry, with complex flavors of rasp- overripe, high-alcohol wine, this shows bold flavors of Tuck Beckstoffer 2010 Pinot Noir (So- berry and cherry tart, Dr. Pepper, spice, sandalwood raisin, plum, prune, dark chocolate and spice. It almost 93 noma Coast). A very delicious Pinot Noir, and anise, as well as a hint of mushroomy funk. Enjoy tastes like Port, although it’s dry. —S.H. this has tremendous waves of cherry compote, red lico- now–2015. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $35 rice, sweet pomegranate, cocoa and smoky sandalwood abv: 14.4% Price: $70 flavors. It’s a great representative of the 2010 vintage. Donovan-Parke 2011 Zinfandel (Califor- —S.H. La Follette 2010 Sangiacomo Vineyard 83 nia). It’s a little bitter and harsh in profile, with abv: 14.5% Price: $85 92 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is for some overripeness. But if you can get past that, you’ll drinking now with chicken or beef tacos. It defines the find a dry, fruity and spicy Zin. —S.H. Tuck Beckstoffer 2009 Ellenboch Vine- approachable style of drink-me-now Pinot Noir, with abv: 14.3% Price: $15 93 yard Semper Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). rich, complex flavors of raspberry and cherry jam, vanil- This is a very big, rich, dense Pinot Noir, and some will la, buttered toast and cinnamon. The silky texture and Maddalena 2010 Zinfandel (Paso Ro- fault it for having the high alcohol and full body that vibrant acidity are nearly perfect. —S.H. 82 bles). This tastes sweet, sharp and minty, like are characteristic of Cabernet. Nonetheless, this is im- abv: 14.7% Price: $40 toothpaste mixed with cherry pie filling. It also features mensely complex and dramatic, offering wave after Zinfandel’s characteristic warmth due to its high alco- wave of concentrated black cherry and red currant, with Sequana 2010 Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir hol, spice and bramble qualities. It’s a decent example notes of bacon and sweet oak. Gets better and more 92 (Green Valley). Just delicious, showing the of a simple, warm-climate Zin. —S.H. attractive as it warms in the glass. Drink now–2016. promise of the 2010 vintage. The wine is ripe and in- abv: 14.9% Price: $17 —S.H. tense in red cherry, cranberry and spice flavors, with a abv: 14.7% Price: $85 rich jacket of smoky oak. Feels like pure silk, while no- Peirano 2011 The Immortal Zin Zinfan- table alcohol provides a boost of warmth for a chilly eve- 81 del (Lodi). At first, this smells unexpectedly of Tuck Beckstoffer 2009 Gold Ridge Vine- ning. —S.H. almonds. But overall, this is a viscous bottle of raisin, 93 yard Semper Pinot Noir (Russian River abv: 14.9% Price: $45 blackberry and tar flavors. —V.B. Valley). If the first duty of a wine is to be delicious, this abv: 14.8% Price: $12 Pinot more than lives up to the obligation. It doesn’t Bailiwick 2010 Pinot Noir (Chalone). show the delicacy or silkiness of a classic Russian River 91 Light and silky, this packs a real punch in com- Pinot Noir, being a little heavy and full-bodied. But it’s plexity, with layers of raspberry, cherry, cola and sweet PINOT NOIR fabulously rich and opulent, offering a tapestry of berry, oak. There’s a mushroom-driven earthiness you might Failla 2010 Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noir mocha, spice and smoky oak notes. Soft, smooth tannins call Burgundian. The tightness suggests aging, possibly 97 (Sonoma­ Coast). This shows the trifecta and crisp acids add to the pleasure. Drink this over the over the long haul. Cellar Selection. —S.H. of winemaker Ehren Jordan’s deft hand, the fabulous next few years. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $44 Hirsch Vineyard and the wonderful 2010 vintage. Even abv: 14.4% Price: $85 if you knew nothing of the wine’s pedigree, you’d be Domaine Carneros 2010 Clonal Series dazzled by its sheer richness of raspberry, cherry, cola Bailiwick 2010 Foray Pinot Noir (Russian 91 Dijon 777 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Made and herb flavors, plus the firm, stone-driven minerality, 92 River Valley). This feels lush and important from a single clone, this exuberant effort zeroes in on the dryness, the feral mountain hints, the acidity and right out of the bottle, tantalizing with tart cherry, cola pure cherry-pie and red currant flavors, enhanced by the overall dazzling structure. The alcohol level is com- and persimmon flavors that are wrapped in acids and sweet-tasting, smoky oak. There’s a slight funkiness that paratively restrained, providing just the right touch of tannins. Give it up to six years, and enjoy. All of the fruit adds to the complexity. Easy to like now, and it will gain warmth. New oak clocks in at only 30%, imbuing the comes from the Foray Vineyard in the Green Valley. traction under proper cellar conditions for 5–6 years. wine with a nice seasoning of smoke. Tasted in a chal- Cellar Selection. —S.H. —S.H. lenging lineup, it easily stood out. Definitely worth abv: 14.4% Price: $40 abv: 14.4% Price: $55 searching for, but only 375 cases were produced. Drink Bailiwick 2010 Silver Pines Vineyard Pi- Cambria 2010 Estate Grown & Bottled this wine now–2022. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. not Noir (Sonoma Mountain). Clone No. 115 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria abv: 13.9% Price: $65 92 The vineyard 90 is a fine one, the fruit source for highly regarded Pinots Valley). For full review see page 7. La Follette 2010 Van der Kamp Vineyard from Tandem and Bailiwick’s own Silver Pines label. abv: 13.8% Price: $52 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Mountain). For full re- The wine is dry and silky, with strong acidity and tan- 95 Longboard 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian Riv- view see page 3. nins that currently render it tough to appreciate. Give it er Valley). abv: 14.5% Price: $40 90 So delicious and easy to drink, you won’t be able to resist pouring multiple glasses. It’s soft

WineMag.com | 63 and spicy, with marvelous raspberry, cherry and red lic- brown sugar, chocolate and toast. Good and delicious, orice flavors. —S.H. but atypical for the variety. —S.H. RED BLENDS abv: 14.3% Price: $33 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Sanguis 2009 Gravity (Santa Barbara 95 County). Sanguis combines its signature of ex- Bailiwick 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River Toad Hollow 2010 Goldie’s Vineyard Pi- ceptional power with finesse, producing a wine that is 89 Valley). Juicy and brisk in acidity, this mouth- 86 not Noir (Russian River Valley). A fairly so dramatic as to defy belief. Syrah and Cabernet Sau- watering Pinot Noir is dry and silky. It has cool-climate lean Pinot, this lacks voluptuousness, but it’s dry and vignon provide the blackberry jam and chocolate rich- cherry, pomegranate and cola flavors, with a nice mush- crisp, with fine cherry, cranberry, tobacco and pepper ness, while Viognier brings a bright floral note, and even roomy earthiness. Decant this elegant wine for several flavors. Give it some airing and drink now. —S.H. Roussanne has something to say by way of orange tart- hours before opening it. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $17 ness. New oak is evident, but perfectly in balance with abv: 14.3% Price: $36 the wine’s volume. Stunning and dramatic, but not an Domaine Carneros 2009 La Terre Prom- ager, so drink up. —S.H. Bailiwick 2010 Borderline Pinot Noir 85 ise Pinot Noir (Carneros). Dry and tart in abv: 15.1% Price: $70 89 (Marin County). Intense and nervy, this has Carneros acidity, this has ripe, forward flavors of rasp- high acidity that gives it a mouthwatering quality. It’s berry jam, cola and spice. It’s pretty strong in mushroom Sanguis 2009 Levity (Santa Barbara absolutely dry, with bright cherry-pie and spice fla- and barnyard funkiness, which may turn some people 94 County). This is a big, voluptuous and unbe- vors. Shows real promise for Marin County Pinot Noir. off. —S.H. lievably concentrated wine. The blend is Grenache, Syr- —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $48 ah and Viognier­, grown in two great vineyards, Thomp- abv: 14.4% Price: $36 son and Bien Nacido. It dazzles with intense cherry and Pennywise 2011 Pinot Noir (California). raspberry purée flavors that are blanketed in sweet, Bailiwick 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma 85 This shows simple, candied raspberry and smoky, vanilla-scented new oak. The alcohol is high, but 88 Coast). There’s a dried mushroom note to this cherry flavors, with a nice spiciness. The mouthfeel is the wine wears it well. Drink now. —S.H. Pinot that dominates over the raspberry and cherry fla- creamy and silky. —S.H. abv: 15.6% Price: $70 vors. It’s bone dry and silky in the mouth, with a sweet, abv: 13.5% Price: $12 jammy finish. —S.H. Spring Mountain Vineyard 2009 Elivette abv: 14.6% Price: $36 Heron 2011 Pinot Noir (Monterey Coun- 93 (Napa Valley). One sip is all it takes to fall 83 ty). This features cherry, cola and red currant in love with this wine. It’s soft, gentle and enormous- Cerro Prieto 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir flavors, but they seem thin, allowing the alcohol to shine ly rich, with a velvety mouthfeel. Blended from all five 88 (Paso Robles). The is dry and well balanced, through. Even though it’s a modestly low 13% by vol- classic Bordeaux varieties, it shows luxurious blackberry with red licorice, red currant and cola flavors that are ume, the wine feels hot. —S.H. jam, cherry pie, red licorice, cocoa, cinnamon spice and enhanced by smoky oak influence. The alcohol shows abv: 13% Price: $19 sweet-smoky sandalwood flavors. Drink now–2015, be- through with some peppery heat. Drink now. —S.H. fore it loses its fresh primary fruit. —S.H. Donovan-Parke 2011 Pinot Noir (Califor- abv: 14.7% Price: $35 abv: 14.4% Price: $125 82 nia). This is a rustic Pinot Noir, harsh in the Tuck Beckstoffer 2009 Silver Eagle Vine- mouth, with some green, mint-like flavors. It offers Buoncristiani 2008 O.P.C. 10th Anniver- 88 yard Semper Pinot ­Noir (Sonoma Coast). enough raspberry and cherry notes to satisfy at a party. 92 sary (Napa Valley). This wine earns a high The oak is a little too strong on this Pinot. Impressive —S.H. score for sheer extravagance. It’s soft, velvety and sweet- as the underlying wine is in concentrated raspberry and abv: 13.5% Price: $15 tasting, boasting chocolate, cherry, currant, cassis, ba- cherry flavors, the barrel influence is dominant, with con and smoky oak flavors. High alcohol makes it feel Harlow Ridge 2011 Pinot Noir (Lodi). sweet buttered toast and caramel. Drink it now, after a a little warm, but that’s the price you pay for such ripe- Light as a feather in body and alcohol, this has brief decanting. —S.H. 82 ness. Made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Mer- a faint raspberry note within, as well as a microscopic abv: 14.2% Price: $85 lot and Malbec, it will pair beautifully with barbecue. inkling of mushroom, but it lacks depth and character. —S.H. Domaine Carneros 2010 Clonal Series —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $48 87 Block 405 Pinot Noir (Carneros). This Pi- abv: 12.5% Price: $10 not comes from a small block in the estate vineyard, on Dry Creek Vineyard 2008 Meritage (So- Heron 2011 Pinot Noir (California). Acid- the Napa side of Carneros. Right out of the bottle, it’s noma County). Soft, gentle and rich, this is ity, heat and green, stalky flavors mark this Pinot 91 very dry and acidic, marked by fresh, jammy raspberry 82 made for drinking now with Cabernet-friendly foods. It Noir. It does offer some decent cherry and cola flavors, and cherry flavors. All indications point to the cellar, ex- offers blasts of blackberry and cherry pie, currant, lico- and is properly silky and dry. —S.H. cept for a funkiness that may become more pronounced rice and sweet cedar flavors, wrapped into fine tannins. abv: 13% Price: $14 with age. It’s risky, but try holding through 2016. —S.H. The blend is made from all five classic Bordeaux variet- abv: 13.8% Price: $55 ies, based on Cabernet Sauvignon. —S.H. Leese-Fitch 2011 Pinot Noir (California). abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Krutz 2009 Akins Family Vineyard Pinot 82 This wine is simple, with a sweet taste of rasp- 87 Noir (Anderson Valley). A concentrated Pi- berry-flavored bubblegum candy. —S.H. Trinchero 2009 Meritage (Napa Valley). abv: 13.5% Price: $12 not with layers of lavender, violet and strawberry com- 91 Tight as nails right out of the bottle, this Cab- pote, the medium weight of this wine has a ripe cherry ernet Sauvignon-based blend takes some time in the Lucky Star 2011 Pinot Noir (California). note throughout. It might mellow with age, and it’s a glass to breathe and open. After a while, it gives off This tastes candy-sweet on the palate, with a good representation of Anderson Valley’s fine 2009 vin- 82 an intense, pleasurable black-currant note. Feels rich, raspberry Lifesaver flavor. —S.H. tage. —V.B. smooth and oaky in the mouth, with a hard jacket of tan- abv: 13.5% Price: $9 abv: 14.8% Price: $38 nins. Should glide through the next 5–6 years, but it can be consumed now. —S.H. Lucienne 2010 Smith Vineyard Pinot Estancia 2009 Stonewall Vineyard Re- abv: 14.2% Price: $60 87 Noir (Santa­ Lucia Highlands). This is dark 81 serve Pinot ­Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This Pinot Noir tastes vegetal and harsh, with weirdly in color and heavy for Pinot Noir. In fact, it is almost Blackbird Vineyards 2010 Arise (Napa sweet oak flavors. —S.H. like Syrah,­ with deep, rich flavors of black cherry jam, Valley). This is one of the richer, finer wines abv: 14.5% Price: $30 90 out of Napa meant for drinking now. With smooth tan-

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 nins and a soft mouthfeel, it shows sweet-tasting cherry and it’s easy to like for its luscious cherry, raspberry, Elements by Artesa 2009 Red (Sonoma jam, cassis and toasty oak flavors. This Bordeaux-style spice and sandalwood flavors. —S.H. 85 County). This red wine has brisk tannins that blend is based on Merlot. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 frame blackberry and currant flavors, with a meat note abv: 14.8% Price: $50 and lots of peppery spice. It’s bone dry, and while it’s a Wattle Creek 2010 The Triple Play (Alex- little rustic, it’s easy to drink with lamb and beef dishes. Conn Creek 2009 Herrick Red (Napa Val- 89 ander Valley). This is a blend of Syrah, Petite —S.H. 90 ley). Made from Bordeaux varieties and Syrah, Sirah and Viognier. The reds bring robust, full-bodied abv: 14.5% Price: $18 this is marked by powerful fruit flavors and some degree and dry flavors of raspberry and cherry jam, while the of sophistication. It floods the mouth with extracted Viognier adds a burst of citrusy brightness. It feels spicy Incognito 2010 Red (Lodi). A showcase of blackberry, cherry, currant and Canadian bacon notes, on the palate, a versatile table wine to drink now. —S.H. 85 Lodi’s­ ability to grow an array of grapes, partic- with a dash of black pepper. Drink it over the next year abv: 14.8% Price: $25 ularly red varieties, Incognito is an amalgam of Syrah, or two. It should be relatively easy to find, with 10,000 Carignane, Mourvèdre, Souzão, Tannat, Cinsault, Pe- cases produced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Zaca Mesa 2008 Z Three Estate Grown tite Sirah and Merlot, with flavors ranging from cran- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 89 and Bottled (Santa Ynez Valley). This is a berry to chocolate. It’s smooth, with medium body and classic California interpretation of a southern Rhône- tannic structure. —V.B. Conn Creek 2008 Anthology (Napa Val- style blend. It’s a good wine, smooth and pleasant if abv: 14.5% Price: $18 90 ley). Deliciously rich and yummy, this is a soft- not particularly complex, offering rich flavors of cherry, ly tannic Bordeaux blend to drink now. It shows broad, cherry liqueur, cola, mocha, bacon and white pepper. Deep Sea 2009 RED (Central Coast). deep blackberry, blueberry and chocolate flavors, with a Drink now. —S.H. 84 Made from Syrah, Lagrein and Petite Sirah, this jacket of sweet-tasting, caramelized oak. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $43 is a rustic red. It has lots of rich raspberry, cherry and abv: 14.5% Price: $55 cola flavors, but feels rough in texture. Drink now with Estancia 2009 Reserve Meritage (Paso everyday fare. —S.H. St. Francis 2010 Anthem Meritage (So- 87 Robles). Made from Cabernet Sauvignon, abv: 13.7% Price: $26 90 noma Valley). St. Francis’s Anthem is a sol- Merlot and Petit Verdot, this Bordeaux blend is dry, id, rich, spicy and full-bodied, offering plenty of drink- with smooth tannins. It has complex blackberry, cur- Mounts 2009 Assembly (Dry Creek Val- me-soon complexity. Based on Cabernet Sauvignon, it rant, raisin and smoky oak flavors, and is at its best now 84 ley). This feels rough on the palate, with sand- has deep layers of blackberry, black currant, plum, an- and for the next two years. —S.H. paper-like tannins and briary flavors of sour cherry can- ise, cocoa and smoky oak, which are wrapped into firm, abv: 14.1% Price: $30 dy and white pepper, plus vanilla and toast notes from smooth tannins. —S.H. the oak barrels. The texture is the main culprit. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $60 Shai 2009 Adome Syrah-Cabernet Sau- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 87 vignon (Santa Barbara County). Here’s a Tablas Creek 2010 Esprit de Beaucastel big, ripe, sweet-tasting wine for drinking now. It’s full San Antonio 2008 Heritage (Paso Ro- 90 (Paso Robles). On its own, this Mourvèdre- bodied and tannic, with powerful blackberry, cherry, 84 bles). Made from Syrah, Petite Sirah, Mourvè- based Rhône-style blend is fairly straightforward. It has plum and chocolate flavors that finish in a swirl of bak- dre and Grenache, this is a hot, heavy, full-bodied wine. candied aromas and tastes, suggesting raspberry-fla- ing spices. —S.H. It shows berry, cherry, raisin, currant and spice flavors vored licorice and cola. However, it is dry and crisp in abv: 14.6% Price: $34 that finish sweet and spicy. —S.H. acidity, balanced overall. It will be a fine companion to a abv: 14.5% Price: $30 wide range of fare. —S.H. Dark Hundred 2011 Red (California). abv: 14.5% Price: $55 86 Strong in black currant, raisin, blackberry pie Immersion 2010 Red (California). This is and oaky flavors, this full-bodied effort has thick tan- 83 a robust, rustic, everyday wine that’s dry and Zaca Mesa 2009 Z Cuvée Estate Grown nins. It’s pleasant for drinking now with barbecue and fruity. If you’re throwing a big party, everybody will hap- 90 and Bottled (Santa Ynez Valley). The best roasts. —S.H. pily drink it. —S.H. of Zaca Mesa’s G-S-Ms, this is based on Grenache and abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Mourvèdre, with a drop of Syrah. It is softly delicious, with cherry pie, mocha and spice flavors, plus a hint of Fiddletown Cellars 2010 Private Stock San Antonio 2008 Cask 520 (Paso Ro- sweet-tasting, toasty oak. Drink now. —S.H. 86 (Amador­ County). Made using 50% Barbera 83 bles). This is dry and pretty tannic, and there’s abv: 14.5% Price: $20 and 50% Alicante Bouschet, this wine is fragrant and some heat from the alcohol, with signs of overripe- full-bodied, with notes of toasty oak and leather. The ness by way of raisin and prune notes. It’s made in an Napa by N.A.P.A. NV Michael’s Red (Napa blend spent more than a year in new French oak, and it old style, and though it’s not ageable, it does have its 89 Valley). For full review see page 8. shows, both in terms of taste and structure. Should be charms. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $25 an interesting wine over time. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $80 Rocky Hill 2008 Richard Dinner Vine- Acronym 2011 Red Wine Blend (Califor- 89 yards (Sonoma­ Mountain). Few California Tablas Creek 2011 Patelin de Tablas 81 nia). This is a small, pinched blend made from wines are this rich. It swamps the mouth with the es- 86 (Paso Robles­). This is rich and extracted Pinot Noir, Syrah and other varieties. It has flavors of sences of ripe black cherry and chocolate, with accents to the point of tasting candied, with black cherry, fig, herb, vegetable, sweet wood and sour cherry candy. of red licorice, vanilla and buttered toast. The blend is roasted almond, brown sugar and cinnamon spice fla- —S.H. an interesting one of Malbec, Merlot and Syrah, set off vors—like a granola bar from a health food store. An abv: 13.5% Price: $15 with fine, complex tannins. The action is all on the sur- easy-drinking­ blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre face, lacking a bit of complexity, but it is delicious for and Counoise. —S.H. Sned 2009 Red (Sonoma County). This is drinking now. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $20 81 soft, heavy and dull, with berry, herb and cocoa abv: 14.4% Price: $39 flavors. It’s O.K. for easy drinking. —S.H. Bowtie 2010 Showtime (California). This abv: 14.8% Price: $18 Tablas Creek 2010 Côtes de Tablas 85 is a useful red wine for everyday drinking. Full- 89 (Paso Robles). Made from Grenache, Syrah, bodied and spicy, it offers plenty of berry, plum sauce Kumbaya 2011 Red (California). This is Mourvèdre and Counoise, this is not too complicated, and toasted wood flavors. —S.H. 80 tannic and tastes artificially sweet, like cherry abv: 14.1% Price: $14 cough medicine. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $9

WineMag.com | 65 lingering, snappy finish begs for fresh shellfish or hali- honeysuckle piles on top of the flavors of honey, chamo- OTHER RED WINES but. —P.G. mile tea, lemon, orange and pink grapefruit, creating a Bokisch 2010 Tempranillo (Lodi). For full abv: 12.8% Price: $40 luscious wine with impressive length. —P.G. 93 review see page 4. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 14.5% Price: $21 Kestrel 2011 Wild Yeast Chardonnay (Ya- 89 kima Valley). Buttery and yeasty, this soft and Wilridge 2011 Rosebud Vineyard Viogni- La Follette 2011 Van der Kamp Vineyard palate-­pleasing­ Chardonnay shows plenty of nutmeg 89 er (Yakima Valley). Viognier is a clear success 93 Pinot Meunier (Sonoma Mountain). Fla- and other baking spices, along with pretty pear and ap- story for Wilridge. This is not a flashy wine, and it goes vors of cherry compote, Dr. Pepper, vanilla, exotic spice ple flavors. It has a touch of mineral and a highlight of down easily. It’s deeply concentrated, with a rich core of and sandalwood are brightened by acidity, making this flower. —P.G. peach, apricot and lemon drop flavors. —P.G. easy to mistake for a Pinot Noir. This is rich, vital and abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 complex, so pair it with fare like roast duck or lamb. Greg La Follette has taken the lead in California in ex- Boomtown 2011 Chardonnay (Washing- ploring the Meunier possibilities, with brilliant results. 88 ton). This is straightforward, crisp and refresh- RIESLING Drink now–2017. —S.H. ing, with no fancy frills. The fruit and the acid comple- Three Rivers 2011 Riesling (Columbia ment each other, lifting the pleasant apple and melon abv: 12.8% Price: $37 Valley). This off-dry Riesling has enough acid flavors. Made entirely in stainless steel, it carries no oak 88 to balance the 2.7% residual sugar. Aromas of flow- influence. —P.G. Trinchero 2009 Central Park West Pe- er and citrus blossom lead into lemon-driven fruit. abv: 13.7% Price: $15 92 tit Verdot (St. Helena). This showcases the There is just a bit of a granular, sugar-like feeling on the sweet-tasting, ripe fruit and powerful oak that charac- tongue. —P.G. Three Rivers 2011 Chardonnay (Colum- terizes all of Trinchero’s 2009 reds. For a 100% Petit­ abv: 12% Price: $15 Verdot, it’s unusually complete, with intense flavors of 87 bia Valley). This marks a change in style from blackberry and blueberry jam, mocha, violet, smoky va- Three Rivers’s 2010, with noticeably less new oak influ- 14 Hands 2010 Riesling (Washington). ence and a much smaller production. The green apple nilla and toast. Drink now, after decanting, and over the Regrettably, this has no sweetness scale on the and pineapple flavors have some sharpness, and the bar- 86 next six years. —S.H. back label, but the 11.5% alcohol suggests that it is off- rel fermentation (just 15% new oak) adds a biscuit-like abv: 14.5% Price: $60 dry, as it certainly tastes. It’s a heavy, honey-soaked style, note of vanilla wafer. —P.G. perhaps due to grapes that were affected by botrytis. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Bokisch 2010 Graciano (Lodi). Thick in Apple juice and honey flavors are right in the heart of 90 dark, meaty fruit flavor, this 100% Graciano is this wine, which would pair well with a simple dessert of 14 Hands 2011 Chardonnay (Washing- strong in savory elements, tasting of baked plum and fresh fruit. Best Buy. —P.G. ton). Apple, pear and melon flavors taste like tobacco, with a smoky, spicy undercurrent. The tannins 85 abv: 11.5% Price: $10 have softened it into a rich, smooth wine that’s ready they’re soaked in rose water. It’s an all-purpose, ­rather to drink now, aromatically recalling ripe figs. Pair with nondescript effort, with just the slightest hint of toast on Copper River Estate NV Diversion Ries- the finish. —P.G. meat-and-cheese tapas or a brothy stew. —V.B. ling (Washington). This is an ordinary Ries- abv: 13% Price: $12 85 abv: 14.5% Price: $21 ling made in a dry style. Peach pit and citrus rind scents lead into similar flavors. —P.G. Thorny Rose 2010 Chardonnay (Colum- Opaque 2008 Petit Verdot (Paso Robles). abv: 13.5% Price: $15 90 Opaque’s Petit Verdot impresses with its inky 85 bia Valley). Quite soft and open, this easy- color; intense, deep flavors of blackberry, blueberry, drinking Chardonnay tastes like vanilla cookie and lem- cassis, dark chocolate, spice and cedar; and also for its on custard. It’s easy to like, though it feels more like a SAUVIGNON BLANC tannins, which are thick and astringent. This is quite snack than a wine to drink with dinner. —P.G. a big wine, with a chewy, meaty complexity. It doesn’t abv: 13.7% Price: $11 Barons V 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Colum- seem to be an ager, but what a great wine for a char- 91 bia Valley). This is succulent yet delicate, with broiled steak. From Riboli Famly, it’s their best Petit Copper River Estate NV Diversion dried hay and sweet grass flavors. Textural, vivid and Verdot yet. —S.H. 83 Chardonnay­ (Washington). A suitable quaf- racy, it has a Loire-like mix of fruit, flower and herb, abv: 14.5% Price: $30 fer, this nonvintage bottling could be mistaken for al- with the possibility of improving still further over the most any white varietal. Thin flavors of apple and pear next 4–5 years. Best Buy. —P.G. fall flat in the mouth. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $15 WASHINGTON abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Novelty Hill 2011 Stillwater Creek Vine- 91 yard Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). CHARDONNAY VIOGNIER Crystal clear, loaded with enticing aromas and flavors of lemon zest, orange, tangerine and spice, this is a juicy, Novelty Hill 2010 Stillwater Creek Vine- Force Majeure 2011 Collaboration Se- yard Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). delicious and complete wine. Tangy and tart, it is almost 93 A ries Viognier ­(Red Mountain). Made in the 90 impossible not to drain the glass quickly in order to refill strong whiff of new French oak hits the nostrils when rich, ripe, over-the-top style that winemaker Mark Mc- it. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. this is first opened, but with some airing it develops Neilly uses for his own Mark Ryan Viogniers, this is a abv: 13.5% Price: $18 into an excellent, deeply concentrated Chardonnay. Ap- superconcentrated wine with more than a passing re- ple, pear, melon and papaya flavors are all in play, with semblance to limoncello. Along with that comes notes Woodinville Wine Cellars 2011 Sauvi- enough natural acidity to keep the wine lively and fresh. of Key lime, candied pineapple and a bit of alcoholic gnon Blanc (Columbia Valley). Deep, ripe The finish has ample toast, and rolls along through a heat. Some will find it excellent, others a little too ex- 88 Editors’ Choice. fruit is the focus, brimming with lemon-lime flavor. smooth and satisfying conclusion. travagant. —P.G. There’s a touch of vanilla cookie also—thoroughly deli- —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $35 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 cious, if a bit blocky. The finish has just a hint of alcohol warmth. —P.G. Novelty Hill 2011 Stillwater Creek Vine- Buty 2011 Conner Lee Vineyard Char- abv: 14% Price: $18 yard Viognier (Columbia Valley). The ad- donnay (Columbia Valley). 90 90 The 2011 is an dition of 20% Roussanne to the blend seems to thicken elegant, fine-tuned version of this excellent wine, with the palate—which is not a bad thing at all. A scent of a crisp, defined­ mix of citrus and mineral flavors. The

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 OTHER WHITE WINES Pondera 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon mineral and earthy tannins with an herbal edge sum up 88 (Columbia­ Valley). A high-toned whiff of the flavor profile. —P.G. Buty 2011 60% Sémillon-19% Sauvi- Band-Aid opens into a broadly flavored wine, with notes abv: 14.8% Price: $32 90 gnon-21% Muscadelle (Columbia Valley). of black fruits, baking spices and dark threads of char- Caleb Foster keeps adding more and more Muscadelle coal and roasted coffee. Best for drinking over the next Raised By Wolves 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- to this blend, always with a keen sense of balance and 2–3 years. —P.G. 86 gnon (Columbia Valley). This is a Christmas proportion. This remains tight and tart, with a tangy mix abv: 14.7% Price: $30 cake of a wine, loaded—perhaps overloaded—with bak- of lemon, grapefruit and pineapple flavors. It’s a precise, ing spice flavors. It’s forward and pastry-like, but there’s high-acid, highwire act from a cool vintage. —P.G. Three Rivers 2009 Champoux Vineyard no stuffing nothing behind it; the wine just stops. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $25 88 Cabernet­ Sauvignon (Horse Heaven abv: 13.8% Price: $34 Hills). Chalky tannins override the deep, black-cherry Kestrel 2011 Pinot Gris (Yakima Valley). flavor. Cassis and licorice streaks are also present, and Thorny Rose 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 88 Crisp and bright, this fruit-driven, estate-grown there is no quibble with the concentration. Perhaps 86 (Columbia­ Valley). For full review see page Pinot­ Gris is still showing some youthful yeastiness, but more bottle age will smooth out the chalky finish. —P.G. 10. Best Buy. the fresh flavors of apple and pear shine through. A fine abv: 14.9% Price: $39 abv: 14% Price: $11 example of an emerging Washington style for this vari- ety. Best Buy. —P.G. 14 Hands 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sau- Basel Cellars 2009 Pheasant Run Vine- abv: 13.9% Price: $13 87 vignon (Horse Heaven Hills). This is a per- 85 yard Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla fectly pleasant, smooth wine, with a forward cherry fla- Walla Valley). This shows plenty of grip as soon as it Novelty Hill 2011 Stillwater Creek Vine- vor, just hinting at a cassis level of ripeness. It’s defi- hits the tongue, with chewy tannins surrounding flavors 88 yard Roussanne (Columbia Valley). There nitely designed to be fruity rather than oaky, perhaps in of tobacco, earth and herb. The fruit is reminiscent of is a strong underpinning of mineral in this wine, sup- contrast to the Columbia ­Crest wines made in the same light plum, but it’s the earthy, stemmy flavors that domi- porting crisply defined­ flavors of melon, pineapple and facility. —P.G. nate, lending bitterness to the finish. —P.G. citrus peel. A medium-ripe, medium-weight, supremely abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 15% Price: $32 well-crafted and balanced Roussanne. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Barons V 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co- Boomtown 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 87 lumbia Valley). This is aged in 100% new 85 (Washington). This Cabernet Sauvingon in- 14 Hands 2011 Hot To Trot White Blend American oak, putting tight berry and cassis flavors be- cludes 6% each Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. It’s 87 (Washington). This is a tasty blend of Char- hind plenty of dried herb notes and astringent tannins. herbal and austere, though not at all tricked up with va- donnay, Pinot Gris and Sémillon, with a delightful spice Fine for drinking with a thick steak, but not so much for nilla flavor. Short and to the point, it’s a good every day note and a crisply defined tree-fruit flavor. Notes of sipping on its own. —P.G. red for heartier meals. —P.G. pear, apple, cinnamon and some tartness add up to a abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 13.9% Price: $15 wine that is pleasurable on its own, and versatile enough for a wide variety of cheeses, seafoods and poultry. Best Coach House Cellars 2010 Cabernet Maryhill 2010 Alder Ridge Vineyard Cab- Buy. —P.G. 87 Sauvignon­ (Columbia Valley). Both wines 85 ernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). abv: 13.5% Price: $10 from this new producer show significant bottle varia- Aromas of peppery spice and herb lead into a wine that tion. This Cabernet­ remains stubbornly stiff and com- quickly thins out. It simply flatlines, with a dry, herbal pact, despite hours of breathing time. Some tightly finish. —P.G. CABERNET SAUVIGNON wound berry and pomegranate flavors poke through, abv: 13.8% Price: $36 with notes of thistle and herb. —P.G. Kestrel 2008 Old Vine Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 14% Price: $30 Maryhill 2010 Clifton Hills Vineyard Cab- 92 gnon (Yakima Valley). Made using fruit that 85 ernet Sauvignon (Wahluke Slope). Light was sourced from 30- and 40-year-old plantings, this has Three Rivers 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon raspberry, sweet cracker and barrel flavors are all pres- captivating flavors of black cherry and cassis, wrapped 87 (Columbia­ Valley). This tight and compact ent. It’s a Cabernet with more charm than muscle. in brambly hints of herb. It shows plenty of intense Cabernet­ has an earthy base, with leafy forest-floor —P.G. power, with many more layers surfacing with breathing flavors and very astringent tannins. That said, there is abv: 14.9% Price: $36 time. In fact, it’s just as good on its second day. Editors’ good fruit at the core, especially the note of spicy plum. Choice. —P.G. —P.G. Maryhill 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Cab- abv: 13.9% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $21 85 ernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This simple Cabernet­ Sauvignon is lightly fruity and forward, Novelty Hill 2009 Stillwater Creek Vine- Woodinville Wine Cellars 2009 Reserve with berry flavors that seem to fade on the midpalate. 89 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Val- 87 Cabernet­ Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). It resolves in a wash of drying, herbal tannins. —P.G. ley). Novelty­ Hill’s estate-grown Cabernet Sauvignon Though the vineyard sources—Stillwater and Conner abv: 14.5% Price: $30 displays notes of brambly berry and plenty of barrel Lee—are first-rate, this wine seems a bit disjointed at spice. The sweet-tasting spice accent rolls into streaks the moment. Sweet, juicy fruit opens up into a midpal- 14 Hands 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon of licorice, earth and herb on the peppery finish. —P.G. ate that seems to have a hole, and then the aggressive 84 (Columbia­ Valley). Whiffs of soft leather and abv: 14.4% Price: $30 flavors of vanilla surface. The vanilla-tinged finish feels fresh herb set up this dry Cabernet. The scents and fla- tacked on, though perhaps some further bottle age will vors of earth and stem are accompanied by a finishing Novelty Hill 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon help to smooth it. —P.G. accent of vanilla. —P.G. (Columbia­ Valley). This Cabernet Sauvignon 88 abv: 14.8% Price: $50 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 has splashes of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. A pretty cherry flavor emerges immediately, with a pep- Maryhill 2010 Les Collines Vineyard Cab- Robert Ramsay 2009 Upland Vineyards pery bite on the finish. It’s not supercomplex, but it is 86 ernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). The 84 Cabernet­ Sauvignon (Snipes Mountain). very well structured and just right for near-term drink- excellent Les Collines Vineyard usually delivers more This is underwhelming, given its old-vine status and ex- ing. —P.G. depth of flavor than this, but a cool vintage may be the cellent vineyard source. The nose has a sweaty quality, abv: 14.4% Price: $25 culprit. Very light berry flavors, a wash of cement-like which carries over onto the palate. Flavors suggest that the fruit was well ripened and in good shape, but some-

WineMag.com | 67 thing may have gone a bit awry in the barrel room. Two good balance. This has lovely proportion and follow bottles tasted with the same results. —P.G. through, as in all of the Novelty Hill reds. —P.G. MOURVÈDRE abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 14.4% Price: $22 Kestrel 2008 Winemaker Select Mourvè- 92 dre (Yakima Valley). Winemaker Flint Nel- Maryhill 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co- Novelty Hill 2009 Stillwater Creek Vine- son co-ferments this unusual Mourvèdre with Syrah 83 lumbia Valley). Excessive vanilla flavors from 87 yard Merlot (Columbia Valley). The blend and Grenache­, yielding a wine with unusually smooth some sort of oak treatment cannot mask the overtly includes 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Malbec. A integration of flavors. Multifaceted and supple, this has herbal and earthy flavors of this almost fruitless wine. scent of egg and an herbal edge diminish the fruit some- layers of ripe fruit, spice, lead pencil, cedar and clean —P.G. what. A peppery berry note and stiff tannins come with earth flavors, which continue smoothly onto the medi- abv: 13.7% Price: $17 a green tea edge, suggesting that this is just on the edge um-long finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. of ripeness. Perfectly fine for a steak dinner. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $40 Copper River Estate NV Diversion Caber- abv: 14.4% Price: $22 82 net Sauvignon (Washington). This is a non- Dowsett Family 2010 Heart of the Hill vintage wine, with green, stemmy flavors that finish on Three Rivers 2010 Merlot (Columbia Val- 88 Vineyard Mourvèdre (Red Mountain). the bitter side. —P.G. 87 ley). Cranberry, Bing cherry and red plum fla- Pure Mourvèdre­ remains a rare bird of a wine, even in abv: 13.5% Price: $15 vors dominate the fruit profile, enlivened by a bright grape-happy Washington State. This is a good example, spice note. The tannins turn quite chalky and drying, with flavors that carry the leafy, herbal character often which lessens the pleasure of the finish. —P.G. found in Carmenère­ and the bright, mineral-laced fruit CABERNET FRANC abv: 14.9% Price: $19 of southern French wines. It’s not a big wine, and the Kestrel 2008 Cabernet Franc (Yakima vines from which the grapes are sourced are still young, Boomtown 2010 Merlot (Washington). Valley). Pure Cabernet Franc from the out- but it’s well made and will hold your interest. —P.G. 91 This is firm and reasonably substantial, with standing Olsen­ Vineyards, this avoids the stemminess 86 abv: 14.6% Price: $45 strong streaks of vanilla and licorice. The oak treatment that can plague this variety at times. It has a pure black- masks the rather light red-fruit flavor, and may seem cherry flavor that is round and full bodied, with textural Maryhill 2010 Sugarloaf Vineyards overdone to some tasters. —P.G. tannins that sail onto the delicious finish. —P.G. 88 Mourvèdre (Rattlesnake Hills). This is per- abv: 14.1% Price: $15 abv: 14.3% Price: $40 haps the most interesting of a vast lineup of red wines at Maryhill. A wild huckleberry note is underscored with a Maryhill 2010 Les Collines Vineyard Mer- Maryhill 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Cab- pleasant minerality. The vanilla streak that seems to ac- lot (Walla Walla Valley). At first there is a ernet Franc (Columbia Valley). There is 86 company all these Maryhill wines is moderated enough 84 whiff of something slightly sweaty, but it blows off to re- very little to distinguish any of the 2010 Maryhill Cab- to be a minor flavor. —P.G. veal a compact, unyielding wine, with wild berry flavors ernets from each other. This shows a dash of cassis, with abv: 13.8% Price: $30 and a strongly earthy, tannic finish. —P.G. a big streak of vanilla and just a hint of orange peel. abv: 14.6% Price: $32 —P.G. Robert Ramsay 2010 McKinley Springs abv: 14.5% Price: $25 87 Vineyard Mourvèdre (Horse Heaven Maryhill 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Mer- Hills). This pure Mourvèdre begins well, offering a full lot (Columbia­ Valley). Maryhill 2010 Cabernet Franc (Columbia 86 This is a medium-bod- palate of varietal flavors that are built upon a mix of cit- ied Merlot, with dark fruit flavors that are cloaked in Valley). The red fruit flavors are tannic, stem- rus and ripe tree fruits, along with accents of leaf and 83 chewy, chalky, earthy and herbal tannins. —P.G. my and barely ripe, making this a rather charmless Cab- forest. It turns soft and seems a bit overripe, running abv: 14.5% Price: $25 ernet Franc. A thick streak of vanilla is the only other into a rather short finish. —P.G. lasting impression. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $35 14 Hands 2010 Merlot (Columbia Val- abv: 14.2% Price: $17 85 ley). This no-frills Merlot follows the general 14 Hands style of laying off the oak influence. It’s a sol- SYRAH MERLOT id wine, though not particularly fruity, and it puts the emphasis on balanced notes of earth, herb and licorice. Force Majeure 2009 Collaboration Series 14 Hands 2009 Reserve Merlot (Horse —P.G. 91 III Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Syrah (Red 89 Heaven­ Hills). Tannic and earthier than its abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Mountain). This Syrah is a blend of four different companion Cabernet, this has almost tongue-scraping clones, and it’s aging regimen is comprised of one-third dryness. The plum and cherry flavors are tightly wound Basel Cellars 2009 Pheasant Run Vine- new oak and two-thirds neutral oak. Quite dark in color and tart, and the early impression is that drying tannins 85 yard Estate­ Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). and temperament, its roasted, smoky flavors are specific take over the finish. With a lot of breathing, it opens up, This lists its alcohol at a hefty 15.5%, but the soft, light and highly individual. If you like the flavor of slightly and the fruit shines through. —P.G. red-fruit flavor doesn’t reflect the abv. It opens with burnt cake that’s scraped off the bottom of a baking pan, abv: 14.5% Price: $30 dusty, toasty barrel scents, then quickly fades. —P.G. you’ll enjoy this. Black fruit, roasted earth and more, abv: 15.5% Price: $28 this is a big, big wine. —P.G. Coach House Cellars 2010 Merlot (Co- abv: 14.9% Price: $55 89 lumbia Valley). Both wines from this new Maryhill 2010 Merlot (Columbia Valley). producer show significant bottle variation. In both in- 84 Herbal and earthy, this dry and tannic wine Novelty Hill 2009 Syrah (Columbia Val- stances, the scores reflect the better bottle of the two shows almost no hint of ripe fruit. It might be best with 91 ley). This Columbia Valley Syrah boasts strong 2010s tasted. The Merlot offers a firm cassis flavor, con- a burger or skirt steak to absorb the tannins. —P.G. varietal aromatics. It seems to have a spine of iron and a centrated and balanced, with a streak of black olive, and abv: 14.4% Price: $17 streak of garrigue-like­ dried herb, with lovely flavors of a pastis-like licorice note. —P.G. pomegranate and wild berry. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $30 Copper River Estate NV Diversion Merlot abv: 14.4% Price: $22 82 (Washington). This is virtually indistinguish- Novelty Hill 2009 Merlot (Columbia Val- able from its companion Cabernet Sauvignon, also a Hawkins Cellars 2010 Syrah (Colum- 89 ley). The blend includes 7% Cabernet Sau- nonvintage, unripe, generic red. —P.G. 90 bia Valley). The fruit is sourced from Kiona vignon and 4% Cabernet Franc. It’s tight, herbal and abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Vineyards on Red Mountain, some of the best Syrah in earthy, with a scent of forest floor. As it opens, it adds Washington. Sappy and concentrated, with a juicy and layers of wild berry, bramble, graphite and leaf, all in

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 pure raspberry flavor, this shows good length and a lick Maryhill 2010 Syrah (Columbia Valley). tinguishable from the winery’s regular bottling of San- of mineral on the finish. —P.G. 83 Thin to the verge of being empty of fruit and fla- giovese, this too has just a hint of sour cherry, with leafy, abv: 14.4% Price: $26 vor, this shows no varietal character whatsoever. Green, earthy, drying tannins. —P.G. leafy, herbal and earthy flavors abound. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Novelty Hill 2009 Stillwater Creek Vine- abv: 13.9% Price: $17 90 yard Syrah­ (Columbia Valley). This tight, young Syrah­ has a succinct core of blueberry and rasp- RED BLENDS berry flavors, which are wrapped in a mix of herb, earth ZINFANDEL Buty 2009 Phinny Hill Vineyard Colum- and green tea. The tannins are just slightly bitter, but Angel Vine 2010 Stonetree Vineyard bia Rediviva­ Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah all in balance, and that bitterness is not at all unpleas- 94 Zinfandel­ (Columbia Valley). It’s a shame (Columbia Valley). Supple and sturdy, this beautifully ant. —P.G. 92 that just 100 cases of this wine were made, as this structured blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% abv: 14.4% Price: $28 bright, fresh, exciting Zinfandel belongs with the best Syrah, which uses fruit sourced­ from the estate vine- of California, not just Washington. The fresh-picked yard, utilizes the best assets of both grapes. The Cab- Kestrel 2008 Co-ferment Estate Syrah strawberry and raspberry flavors are concentrated and ernet gives it both firmness and depth, while the Syrah (Yakima Valley). The co-ferment includes 5% 89 vibrating with juicy acidity. They lead into a sappy, pipes in vivid, juicy, berry flavors. Still young and pri- Viognier, and offers generous fruit and appealing scents lengthy midpalate, with an underpinning of rock. Edi- mary, the best is clearly yet to come. Cellar Selection. of spices and woodsy incense. The mulled fruit flavor tors’ Choice. —P.G. —P.G. rolls onto the herbal finish with some green-tea-like tan- abv: 15.2% Price: $20 abv: NA Price: $50 nins. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $40 Maryhill 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Zin- Force Majeure 2009 Collaboration Series fandel (Columbia Valley). Sweet and jam- I Ciel du Cheval Vineyard (Red Moun- Boomtown 2010 Syrah (Washington). 87 94 my fruit flavors suggest canned cherry and plum. That tain). Still the best wine in the lineup, this Bordeaux- The Boomtown Syrah offers plenty of clear, va- 87 sweetness is offset by the drying, earthy tannins and fla- style blend, made by Cadence’s Ben Smith, is two-thirds rietally correct fruit flavor. Citrus highlights underscore vor of dried herb. —P.G. Cabernet Sauvignon, which is sourced from some of the deep boysenberry fruit. The wine is forward and just abv: 15.8% Price: $30 oldest vines on Red Mountain, planted in 1975 and right for drinking while young. —P.G. 1982. Concentrated, tannic and dense, it matches the abv: 14.1% Price: $15 Maryhill 2010 Zinfandel (Columbia Val- superb fruit with captivating notes of seed bread and ley). According to its bottle, this has 15.5% Maryhill 2010 Les Collines Vineyard Syr- 85 cayenne pepper. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. alcohol, and yet the raspberry flavor lacks weight and abv: 14.2% Price: $55 ah (Columbia­ Valley). The best of a trio of 87 depth. Instead, flavors of stem and earth seem to domi- Maryhill designates that are made from Les Collines nate. —P.G. Force Majeure 2009 Collaboration Series Vineyard fruit, this reflects genuine Syrah-varietal abv: 15.5% Price: $17 VI Ciel du Cheval Vineyard (Red Moun- specificity. Pure flavors of blue and purple fruit carry a 93 tain). This is the first vintage for this wine, made by strong streak of vanilla, but the density of flavor stands Maryhill 2010 Northridge Vineyard Primi- Syncline’s James Mantone. A delectable blend of 48% out. —P.G. tivo (Wahluke Slope). Tart to the point of be- Mourvèdre, 28% Grenache and 24% Syrah, aged in abv: 15.5% Price: $36 84 ing flat-out sour, this might appeal to lovers of rhubarb 100% neutral oak barrels, this is a sappy, concentrated, pie. Rhubarb and sour plum flavors are matched with Maryhill 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Syrah mouth-pleasing blast of plum, cherry and spice. As it sharp acidity. The fruit seems underripe. —P.G. (Columbia­ Valley). There is an unusual sen- rolls across the palate, the distinct impression is of choc- 85 abv: 13.5% Price: $28 sation of spritz in the mouth, though no hint of any CO2 olate-covered cherries. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $50 can be seen in the glass. This is bone dry, stemmy and earthy, with the most prominent flavor. —P.G. SANGIOVESE Force Majeure 2009 Collaboration Series abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Trio Vintners 2009 Sangiovese (Walla 92 II Ciel du Cheval Vineyard (Red Moun- Basel Cellars 2009 Pheasant Run Syrah 89 Walla Valley). This fruit-powered Sangiovese tain). This is 98% Syrah, unlike past vintages where 84 (Walla Walla Valley). This has some tart, pep- was aged in neutral barrels, and the cranberry and rasp- it was modeled after a Côtes du Rhône-style blend. It pery berry flavors that are buried in notes of stem, bark berry flavors come through clean and fresh. It’s still a bit opens with enticing whiffs of soft leather and toasted and green tannins. —P.G. tight, crisp and compact. Give it some breathing time if nut, before bringing in a smooth mix of black and pur- abv: 14.9% Price: $28 you plan to drink it soon. —P.G. ple fruits, along with chocolate and anise highlights. abv: 13.9% Price: $20 It’s supple and proportionate, with polished, coffee-fla- Des Voigne Cellars 2008 Montreux Syrah vored tannins. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 84 (Columbia­ Valley). A somewhat volatile nose Trio Vintners 2010 Flash Point Reserve abv: 14.2% Price: $55 introduces a wine that has a powerfully oaky flavor, per- Sangiovese­ (Yakima Valley). The Flash 88 Kestrel 2008 Raptor Red (Yakima Valley). haps from the 30 months it spent in 50% new Ameri- Point is a new name for the familiar Trio Reserve, which can barrels. It seems a bit overdone, and the fruit heads uses grapes that are sourced entirely from the Boushey 91 Great fruit is the story here—a lush mix of cran- into dry, pruny flavors. It is seemingly already past its Vineyard. Here the toasty oak barrel flavors dominate, berry, cherry, blueberry and Bourbon-soaked fig. Com- prime. —P.G. while the fruit tends toward a light strawberry flavor, plex and delicious, this is drinking very well. It may or abv: 14.5% Price: $30 with more mocha than grape flavor. —P.G. may not continue to improve, but why wait? —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $28 abv: 13.9% Price: $60 Three Rivers 2010 River’s Red Syrah Kestrel 2009 Tribute Red (Yakima Valley). 84 (Columbia Valley). Almost entirely Syrah, Maryhill 2010 Sangiovese (Columbia Val- this is a completely different wine from the previous 85 ley). Chalky and dry, this tastes of barely ripe 90 This blend of Merlot and Mourvèdre melds vintage of River’s Red. Light watermelon and cranberry cherry, with plenty of leafy flavors. The tannins take fruit from the Kestrel View and Olsen Vineyards. Burst- flavors seem dilute and quickly fade. There’s not much over quickly in a brief, drying finish. —P.G. ing with mixed plum and cherry flavors, it’s accented by going on here. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $17 a spice note and a streak of nougat. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.8% Price: $14 —P.G. Maryhill 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve San- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 85 giovese (Columbia Valley). Not really dis-

WineMag.com | 69 Angel Vine 2010 The Hellion (Columbia and asphalt highlights. It’s big but well built, a powerful feel that carries impressions of sugary fruit and rough, 89 Valley). The Hellion is half Primitivo, one- red blend of Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Petit Verdot. It earthy tannins. At this point, the wine needs more time third Petite Sirah and the rest Zinfandel. A lively mix of seems to be trending into a somewhat pruny finish, and in bottle to pull its flavors together. —P.G. berry, citrus and tree fruit flavors, it’s plush, forward and not likely to improve with further bottle age, so drink abv: 14.5% Price: $30 full across the palate. It starts out beautifully, then falls a up. —P.G. little flat coming into the home stretch. The finish shows abv: 15% Price: $35 Pondera 2009 Prima Donna Red (Colum- some heat and a hint of milk chocolate. —P.G. 86 bia Valley). A Bordeaux-style blend domi- abv: 15.2% Price: $22 Dowsett Family 2009 Devotion (Colum- nated by Merlot, this is loaded with flavors of vanilla, 87 bia Valley). The 2009 Devotion credits the licorice and baking spice. The four-grape blend seems Woodinville Wine Cellars 2010 Little Bear exact same blend of grapes and vineyards as the 2008— heavily influenced by ginger snaps, rather than classi- 89 Creek Red Wine (Columbia Valley). An- 41% Syrah (Morrison Lane Vineyard), 30% Mourvèdre fied growths. —P.G. other fine vintage for this value-priced, Bordeaux-style (Heart of the Hill Vineyard), and 29% Grenache (Des- abv: 14.6% Price: $42 blend. It’s loaded with raspberry and black cherry fla- tiny Ridge Vineyard). Yet it does not quite measure up vors, then brings in lighter notes of dried herb, ground to that superior vintage. It may be a passing stage, but Robert Ramsay 2010 Par la Mer Red coffee and dark chocolate. For its price, it delivers the engaging, tart, wild-berry flavors on entry quickly 86 (Columbia­ Valley). Sharp and spicy, this rather complex and well-integrated flavors. Editors’ drop off on the midpalate, finishing somewhat diffuse. blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsault leaves a Choice. —P.G. Two bottles tasted with similar results. —P.G. slightly yeasty finish. The three grapes seem a bit at abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.7% Price: $30 odds, not entirely comfortable in the same bottle. A sec- ond bottle was tasted, and the fruit flavors—especially 14 Hands 2009 Reserve Red Blend Maryhill 2010 Hattrup Farms Marvell from the Grenache—proved to be more focused and 88 (Horse Heaven Hills). This fills out the re- 87 (Rattlesnake Hills). This Grenache, Syr- pure. —P.G. serve line at 14 Hands, done much in the same style ah, Mourvèdre blend has a tart and tangy appeal. The abv: 14.4% Price: $38 as the Reserve Merlot and the Reserve Cabernet Sau- mixed plum and berry fruit flavors are matched with vignon. Here the fruit flavors lean toward berry rather strongly herbal streaks. Tannins are earthy and astrin- 14 Hands 2010 Hot To Trot Red Blend than cassis or plum, and a dash of milk chocolate adds a gent. —P.G. 85 (Columbia­ Valley). A stunning 580,000 cases bit of interest to the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $32 were made of this blend of Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet and abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Mourvèdre. It’s fruity and fresh, but lacks muscle, with Thorny Rose 2009 Red Blend (Columbia light, California-style flavors of strawberry and raspber- Flying Trout 2009-2010 Deep River Red 87 Valley). For full review see page 10. Best Buy. ry, finishing with an herbal edge. Best Buy. —P.G. 88 (Columbia­ Valley). A two-vintage blend of abv: 14% Price: $11 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Cabernet­ Franc and Malbec, the Deep River Red has a roasted character that’s dark and flavorful, with notes of Trio Vintners 2010 Riot Red Table Wine Basel Cellars 2009 Estate Pheasant Run cassis, coffee and cacao. It’s full bodied and dense, with 87 (Columbia Valley). This new release of Riot 85 Vineyard Merriment Red Wine (Walla notes of graphite and pepper. —P.G. changes the grapes around, with Sangiovese now com- Walla Valley). Merriment is a Bordeaux-style blend abv: 14.8% Price: $29 prising half of the wine and Mourvèdre and Grenache with a simple mix of black cherry and chocolate flavors. filling in the rest of the mix. It’s a fun blend, fruity and It has a somewhat flat mouthfeel, with peppery, earthy Woodinville Wine Cellars 2009 Indomita- broad, with a tart raspberry kick and a plummy, spicy undertones and a bitterness to the finish. —P.G. 88 ble (Columbia Valley). A blend of 50% Cab- finish. —P.G. abv: 15.1% Price: $40 ernet Sauvignon­, 30% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, abv: 13.9% Price: $18 this is a forward, fruity, almost sweet-tasting wine, con- Convergence Zone Cellars 2010 Virga siderably fruitier and less compelling than the previous Barons V 2009 Petit Barone (Columbia 85 Red (Red Mountain). A blend of roughly vintage. Broad and accessible, with a pretty milk-choco- 86 Valley). This is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and equal parts Mourvèdre and Syrah, this does not offer late finish, it’s an easy sipper to enjoy while it’s still in the 25% Merlot. The fruit is submerged among chalky tan- much in the way of fruit; there’s an emptiness to the bloom of youth. —P.G. nins, and despite its Bordeaux-like structure, the light, midpalate. It’s a difficult wine to get a handle on, even abv: 14.8% Price: $45 grapey flavors are best enjoyed while young. —P.G. after breathing time. Perhaps more bottle age will open abv: 14.3% Price: $30 it up. —P.G. Convergence Zone Cellars 2010 Mistral abv: 14.9% Price: $28 87 Red (Red Mountain). A blend of two-thirds Flying Trout 2010 Cutthroat Red (Colum- Grenache, the rest a mix of Mourvèdre and Syrah, this 86 bia Valley). This mix of 62% Pepper Bridge Des Voigne Cellars 2007 Solea Red (Co- demonstrates the spicy cherry appeal of the main grape. Vineyard Syrah and 38% Klipsun Vineyard Malbec has 85 lumbia Valley). Dried out and tannic, this Apple and plum flavors come into play as well, keeping not entirely come together. The grapey fruit flavors and five-grape Bordeaux-style blend tastes more of vanil- the wine fruity, forward, spicy and flavorful. —P.G. slightly stemmy tannins may ultimately complement la and coffee than of fruit, and the finish turns bitter. abv: 14.9% Price: $28 each other, but that will require more bottle age. For Drink up. —P.G. the moment, give it a good decanting, or wait a couple abv: 14.6% Price: $30 Des Voigne Cellars 2010 The Groove Red more years before opening. —P.G. 87 (Columbia­ Valley). Designed as a forward, abv: 14.3% Price: $35 Maryhill 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Tavo- easy-drinking blend, this youthful and spicy wine offers 85 la Rosso­ Sangiovese Cabernet (Colum- plenty of tart, brambly fruit and a peppery herb note Maryhill 2010 Elephant Mountain Vine- bia Valley). A blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sau- in the background. Syrah, Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc 86 yards Indira (Rattlesnake Hills). A Cin- vignon, the Tavola Rosso is a wine that seems to be in and Petit Verdot are all in the mix, and the once-used sault-Counoise blend, this is grapey, tasting of just-ripe search of a distinct identity. Tannic, drying and vanil- French and American oak barrels add some further fla- berries. The flavors turn a little slender on the midpal- la soaked, it has a red fruit flavor that vanishes all too vor interest. —P.G. ate, but it’s a pleasant quaffer with balanced tannins. quickly. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $20 —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 abv: 13.2% Price: $36 Des Voigne Cellars 2009 Untitled (Co- Wilridge 2010 Estate Mélange Noir (Ya- 87 lumbia Valley). This is a dark, tarry wine, with Maryhill 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Ser- 85 kima Valley). This is Bordeaux-style blend is a black cherry and cassis core that’s accented by licorice 86 endipity Red Wine (Columbia Valley). quite leathery, both on the nose and palate, with red This is a Bordeaux-style blend, with a grainy mouth- fruit flavors that quickly vanish into a horsey, bitter fin-

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 ish. Your individual sensitivity to such flavors will deter- this winery’s red wine lineup. Here, the plummy fruit mine how much you enjoy this wine. —P.G. has the density to match the oak treatment. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 15.1% Price: $17

Basel Cellars 2009 Claret (Walla Walla Wilridge 2010 Estate Zweigelt (Yakima 83 Valley). Merriment is a Bordeaux-style blend 87 Valley). Once past the whiff of tack-room with a simple mix of black cherry and chocolate flavors. leather, this young wine opens to reveal broad, sappy It has a flat mouthfeel, with peppery, earthy undertones plummy fruit. It’s not only unique but a whole lot of and some bitterness on the finish. —P.G. fun. —P.G. abv: 15.2% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $30

Basel Cellars 2009 Inspired Red Mer- Maryhill 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Gre- 82 lot-Cabernet­ Franc (Columbia Valley). A 86 nache (Columbia Valley). This Proprietor’s blend of 50% Merlot and 50% Cabernet Franc, this is Reserve Grenache­ is one of a handful of Maryhill’s 2010 volatile, short, bitter and tannic. —P.G. reds that improves upon the previous vintage. Sappy abv: 15% Price: $40 and relatively substantial, this has a core of Bing cherry, along with chewy tannins and an earthy finish. —P.G. Copper River Estate NV Diversion Majes- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 82 tic Red (Washington). This unidentified red blend looks a bit tired and tastes rather flat. It’s an ev- Three Rivers 2009 Petit Verdot (Colum- eryday wine, a decent pairing for pizza. —P.G. 85 bia Valley). This opens with bright, spicy, abv: 13.5% Price: $15 front-loaded fruit flavors, but those notes quickly fade, allowing the green tannins and chalky astringency to dominate. —P.G. OTHER RED WINES abv: 14.7% Price: $29 Flying Trout 2010 Gamache Vineyard 92 Malbec (Columbia Valley). The best wine to date from Ashley Trout, this single-vineyard Malbec seduces with its thick, dense, decadently lush flavors of black cherry and cassis. Licorice, tar, coffee and cacao notes come into play on the deep and lingering finish. If anything, the wine is even better on the second day, as the fruit flavors mature into a plummy Christmas-cake delight. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $37

Angel Vine 2010 Stonetree Vineyard Pe- 90 tite Sirah­ (Columbia Valley). Winemaker Ed Fus does a superb job with grapes from the Stone- tree Vineyard, as this tasty young Petite Sirah demon- strates. Violet, chalk, blueberry and citrus notes com- bine on the palate, continuing onto the finish that sets flower and tannin in stark opposition. This is what pure Petite Sirah from an excellent site tastes like, with no intrusive new oak flavors. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $22

Novelty Hill 2009 Stillwater Creek Vine- 89 yard Malbec (Columbia Valley). A whiff of clover jumps from the glass, then this dark, juicy wine rips into a dense cassis flavor. Ripe and sappy, it has just the right touch of new oak layered onto the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $28

Novelty Hill 2009 Stillwater Creek Vine- 88 yard Grenache­ (Columbia Valley). One’s first impression is of a minty wine, with a cranberry fla- vor and plenty of acidity. Spicy and tart, it seems a little stiff. But retasted a full day later, the wine had retained its structure, adding some depth to the fruit and pretty baking spice to the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $28

Maryhill 2010 Barbera (Columbia Valley). 87 This is made in a dark, rich style, with the lush vanilla and tobacco flavors that can be found throughout

WineMag.com | 71 tlety than the standard smoky brute Ardbeg. Honeyed SPIRITS and floral aromas dominate the nose, with just a whiff of peat following. On the palate, a note of smoke and BIG IN JAPAN: JAPANESE WHISKY alcohol heat become evident. Yet—especially with wa- ter added—the finish shows graceful notes of espresso, ithin certain cicles of spirits cognoscen- Commodore Matthew Perry brought a barrel menthol and buttery vanilla. This was made and named for the Ardbeg Day event. ti, Japanese whiskies are often consid- of American whiskey in 1854 as a gift for the abv: 58% Price: $88 Wered the fine-wine-drinker’s take on emperor and all of his subjects. whiskey. Overall, they tend to be delicate, com- “Once the Americans had gone home, the Black Velvet Toasted Caramel (Canada; plex and silky, with more attention paid to the smitten Japanese were left with no idea how 90 Constellation Brands, Canandaigua, NY). spirit’s body and texture than in other countries. to make the golden spirit,” Bunting recounted. Bridging territory between whisky and liqueur, this car- amel-flavored Canadian whisky was launched in the Very possibly, this may be the year that For decades, domestically produced imitations U.S. in September 2012. Viscous and sweet, it mixes Americans take notice of Japanese whisky. Un- were the only choices available, including the flavors of milky caramel, toasted oak and a sprinkle of til recently, we didn’t have much of a choice in notoriously awful Queen George brand. cinnamon on the finish. Expect this bottling to inspire the category. But in 2010, Suntory’s Hibiki ar- It took until the 1920s for Masataka Taket- warming fireside cocktails—perhaps mixed with apple rived; in 2011, the Hakushu 12-year-old. And suru, Suntory’s first master distiller and Nikka’s cider or ginger ale—or sweet dessert drinks. abv: 35% Price: $12 in late 2012, Nikka challenged Suntory’s domi- founder, to study and perfect his art in Scot- nance on American shelves, bringing the Sin- land. Returning home, he chose distillery sites Troy & Sons Oak Reserve Whiskey (USA; gle Malt Yoichi 15-year-old and Taketsuru Pure in Japan that resembled the terrain and climate 88 Asheville Distilling Company, Asheville, Malt 12-year-old to our shores. (The Hibiki of Scotland. By the 1970s, whisky was every- NC). Made from Crooked Creek Corn, an non-GMO heirloom corn variety, this barrel-aged moonshine has and Yamazaki 12-year-old expressions were re- where in Japan. It’s no coincidence that one a light gold color and a mild vanilla flavor, mixed with viewed in the February 2011 issue.) of Nikka’s bottlings bears Taketsuru’s name— notes of oak and faint tropical fruit. Recommended for To understand why Japanese whisky is made certainly, the local industry owes an enormous mixing, this would do well lightened with ginger ale and in the Scottish tradition (and why it’s properly debt to the man. lime. spelled as “whisky” rather than “whiskey,”) I Since only a handful of Japanese whiskies abv: 40% Price: $35 turned to Drinking Japan: A Guide to Japan’s are available in the U.S., we’ve rounded this Best Drinks and Drinking Establisments (Tut- out with additional reviews from the interna- UNFLAVORED VODKA tle Publishing, 2011) by Tokyo-based author tional whisk(e)y category, plus some vodkas. As Real Russian (USA: Premiere Distillery, Chris Bunting. Whisky was first introduced to the Japanese say, Kanpai! 92 Gurnee, IL). For full review see page 11. Best Japan by the Americans, Bunting wrote, when —Kara Newman Buy. abv: 40% Price: $20

The Yamazaki Single Malt Whisky Aged Francisco, CA). Fans of smoky Islay Scotches will Karlsson’ s Gold Vodka Batch 2009 (Swe- 95 18 Years (Japan; Campari America, San enjoy this smoky single malt that’ s made at Suntory’s 91 den; MHW, Manhasset, NY). This limited- Francisco, CA). This is an excellent special-occasion Hakashu Distillery, which is “surrounded by forest at edition vintage bottling is made solely from the 2009 single malt from Suntory. Look for a bold, luscious but- the foot of the Southern Japan Alps.” Despite the deli- of the solist potato crop from the Cape Bjäre terscotch, note, enlivened by touches of stone fruit, ly- cate aromas of tropical fruit and light peat, the smoke region of southern Sweden. It’s distinctly sweet and chee, and a faint hint of smoke. The buttery-soft texture note is considerably amplified on the palate, especial- earthy, with a hearty chewiness about it—definitely and amber color with bright orange-gold highlights add ly on the resonant finish, where it pushes those dainty different from Karlsson’ s more neutral standard bot- to the luxe experience. fruit tones completely off the map. Best Buy. tling. Available as of November 2012, with fewer than abv: 43% Price: $120 abv: 43% Price: $45 2,000 bottles made. abv: 40% Price: $80 Yoichi 15 Year Old (Japan; Anchor Dis- 94 tilling, San Francisco, CA). This elegant OTHER WHISKIES Broken Shed Premium Vodka (New Zea- land; Broken Shed Imports, Manhasset, single malt from Nikka bears a dark, vibrant gold color, Sheep Dip Malt Whisky (Scotland; Fred- 91 NY). This New Zealand vodka—distilled from whey— with smoke and caramel aromas. On the palate, look for erick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY). well-balanced notes of citrus peel, cedar and oak, and 94 is smooth, clean, sweet and surprisingly full bodied for For full review see page 11. Best Buy. a vodka, featuring light vanilla and anise notes. a gentle waft of smoke. An astringent sensation on the abv: 40% Price: $45 finish sets the mouth watering, leading to a full-bodied, abv: 40% Price: $35 almost oily texture. Recommended for sipping neat. Marshal 12-Year-Old Scotch Whisky Fuzzy’ s Ultra Premium Vodka (USA; abv: 45% Price: $130 (Scotland; Arcadia Imports, Plainville, 91 Fuzzy’ s Spirits, Indianapolis, IN). Need a CT). This mellow blended Scotch melds a brisk smoke- 90 Taketsuru Pure Malt 12 Year Old (Japan; gift for a golf lover? This corn-based vodka named for note with a crème brûlée accent. Adding a splash of wa- Anchor Distilling, San Francisco, CA). golf pro Fuzzy Zoeller may fit the bill. It has a neutral, 93 ter brings a touch of caramel to the surface, while a peat Bright gold in color and fresh, this single malt from Nik- faintly fruity aroma, with a bit of lemongrass on the note lingers on the smooth finish. Consider pairing this ka offers a pitch-perfect balance of fruit, oak and smoke. crisp finish. Bottled by Bendistillery in Bend, Oregon. with a hearty appetizer or a meaty main course, such as On the palate, this translates to fresh apple and subtle abv: 40% Price: $24 beef or game. Best Buy. vanilla flavors that taper smoothly. abv: 40% Price: $30 abv: 40% Price: $70 Cooranbong Australian Vodka (Australia; MHW, Manhasset, NY). Presented in a tall Ardbeg Day (Scotland; Moet Hennessy, 89 The Hakashu Japanese Whisky Aged wine-bottle-like vessel, this clear, bright vodka made New York, NY). This limited-edition whisky— 12 Years (Japan; Campari America, San 90 90 just over 12,000 bottles were produced—has more sub-

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013 from Barossa Valley grapes mixes mild but distinctly sweet notes of marshmallow and vanilla. abv: 40% Price: $28

Legend of Kremlin Russian Vodka De 88 Luxe (Russia; Medek Wine & Spirits, New York, NY). Clear and star bright in appearance, this is a neutral, faintly citrusy vodka, which claims to have production roots dating back to a 15th century monk. Brisk alcohol. abv: 40% Price: $42

Lucky Dog Vodka (USA; Lucky Dog Vod- 87 ka, Siaconset, MA). Dog-lovers especial- ly will love the playful label design, which features a leaping red dog and paw prints. This is “made from Idaho winter wheat and clear Rocky Mountain water,” and it bears a marshmallow sweetness on the palate. abv: 40% Price: $22

WineMag.com | 73 BEER a rich and nutty brown ale that would be great paired with sharp Cheddar or nutty cheese. The hop charac- ter is subtle but present, providing lifting lemon and PROGRESSIVE PORTERS green apple notes, as well as soft astringency, to counter the sweet-tasting flavors of caramel, pecan and roasted t’s one of the most common beer questions widely available and, for some reason, have an malt. Hints of brown bread and sweet spice linger on asked: What is the difference between identity that seems more defined. People feel the close. Ia stout and a porter? With such strong confident in their expectations of a bottle of abv: 6% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack similarities between their aromas and flavors stout; not, however, with porters. as well as their structures and balance, it’s Interpretation and personalization are key Samuel Adams Norse Legend Sahti 87 (Sahti; Boston Beer Co., MA). First brewed difficult to get a grasp on how these two styles here. There are more “traditional” porters, in Finland during the 1500s, sahti is a farmhouse ale differ. like English or Baltic offerings, and then there that originally utilized a bed of juniper twigs as a filter Historically and presently, the two styles are are new, innovative beers from American craft for the brew. This is an ode to that primitive style; it’s very similar in overall profile and ingredients brewers, developing a style all their own with brewed with and aged on juniper berries (as opposed used, which makes any strict distinctions ingredients like coffee or smoked malts, and to the branches), resulting in an interesting beer of nu- ance and character. The bouquet is soft and approach- between the beers blurry. Originally perceived techniques like oak aging. able, with subtle notes of caramel and sweet citrus at as a lighter stout (just as a stout was perceived The style lines are once again blurred as the forefront. The juniper flavor is apparent on the pal- to be a stronger version of a porter), porters can envelope-pushing brewers are thinking outside ate, spicing up the sweet malt core and adding depth to vary widely, from bitter and roasty to sweet and of the box and trying recipes and methods that the medium-weight mouth, lingering well into the me- chocolaty, and all variations in between. were never before used. Perfect for cold winter dium-length close. abv: 7% Price: $6/22 oz But the strange thing is that many people are nights, here are some great brews to start off comfortable with stouts, and not with porters. your porter experimentation. Samuel Adams Verloren Gose (Gose; Stouts have greater name recognition, are more Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo 87 Boston Beer Co., MA). An old German beer style from Leipzig, gose is an unfiltered wheat beer with low hop bitterness that’s brewed with coriander and salt. It pours a cloudy deep-gold color with a thick off-white head. The bouquet is full and rich, with a slight hon- Alaskan Brewing Co. 2012 Smoked Por- abound. The finish is long and warm, laced with hints of eyed character to the yellow stone fruit and banana aro- ter (American Porter; Alaskan Brewing sweet smoke and molasses. 95 mas. Salty bread dough, white tea, coriander and orange Co., AK). This stunning vintage-dated porter is a win- abv: 9.36% Price: $9/22 oz blossom notes abound on the nose and palate, with a ner every year, but the 2012 release seems to have it nice citrus burst that keeps the palate fresh and lively. all. Visually stunning, it has a deep walnut-brown color Deschutes Black Butte XXIV 24th Birth- An herbal, saline note continues through the dry finish. and a frothy, coffee-colored head, showing flecks of red day Reserve (American Porter; De- 94 abv: 6% Price: $6/22 oz in the light. The smoky aromas immediately waft from schutes Brewery, OR). Deschutes’s Birthday Re- the glass, with supporting notes of roasted malt, milk serve is an annual limited-edition release to watch for. chocolate and campfire. The mouthfeel is smooth and The base is Deschute’s Black Butte Porter, brewed with approachable right through to the long finish, with a ton Theo chocolate nibs, Deglet dates and Mission figs, and of smoky flavors dominating the palate along with hints partially aged in Bourbon barrels. It’s 24th release is of s’mores, scorched earth and sweet cured bacon. powerful and dense, with loads of aromas and flavors of abv: 6.5% Price: $9/22 oz dark fruit, chocolate malt, raw vanilla bean, lightly roast- ed coffee, sweet spice and cigar box. The bottle recom- Anchor Porter (American Porter; Anchor mends consumption after July 2013, but given the in- 95 Brewing Company, CA). This classic por- tense characteristics, full body, creamy mouthfeel and ter pours almost black, with a thick, tan-colored head. endless finish, this could easily continue to evolve well The bouquet is a complex mélange of aromas, including through 2014. Cellar Selection. notes of dried dark fruit (think prunes, figs and raisins), abv: 11% Price: $12/22 oz roasted malt, light coffee, cocoa powder and a touch of toasted barley. It’s flavorful and creamy, but then the Samuel Smith The Famous Taddy Porter palate livens up with a citrus oil burst on the finish, fol- 94 (English Porter; Samuel Smith Old Brew- lowed by a soft hint of dry, bitter chocolate. Overall, it’s ery (Tadcaster), England). Taddy Porter pours a remarkably balanced and easy to drink, with an endless dark brown color with a thick, tan-colored head. Aro- finish. mas and flavors of toasted nut, bittersweet cocoa, but- abv: 5.6% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack ter crunch and raisin, with accents of soft hops and sweet smoke, add depth to the roasted malt core. The Smuttynose Big Beer Series Baltic Por- mouthfeel is medium weight, full and satisfying, with 95 ter (Baltic Porter; Smuttynose Brewing good carbonation to liven up the intense, roasted flavors Company, NH). This porter pours just about jet black, and long finish. A drinkable, well-balanced and flavor- with no transparency and a thick, foamy, mocha-colored ful brew. head that takes significant time to fall. Decadent, earthy abv: 5% Price: $4/550 ml characteristics of coffee, dark chocolate and roasted malt lead the nose and palate, with hints of dark berry and plum making a slight appearance in the background OTHER ALES after warming. The fruit becomes pronounced on the Brekle’s Brown (American Brown Ale; palate, although the malty core and mocha flavors still 88 Anchor Brewing Company, CA). This is

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013