Defies Convention Palacios, Chief Winemaker of Bodegas Faustino in Rioja Alavesa, Spain

OCTOBER 2018 • $6.95

Rioja’sNEWFOUND EDGE AFTER MORE THAN 150 YEARS OF PRODUCTION, FAUSTINO

Rafael Martínez Defies Convention Palacios, Chief Winemaker of Bodegas Faustino in Rioja Alavesa, Spain.

TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 1 RIOJA’S 10/1/18 6:29 PM NEWFOUND tastingpanel

TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 2 10/1/18 6:29 PM tastingTHE panel tastingpanel MAGAZINE

October 2018 • Vol. 76 No. 9

editor in chief publisher / editorial director vp / associate publisher managing editor Anthony Dias Blue Meridith May Rachel Burkons Jesse Hom-Dawson [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] 818-990-0350

CONTRIBUTORS senior design director Michael Viggiano [email protected] Erica Bartel, Kim Beto, Brandon Boghosian, Randy Caparoso, Madelyn vp, sales and marketing Gagnon, Albert Letizia, Michelle Metter, Jennifer Olson, Alexander [email protected] Rubin, Benjamin Rusnak, Grace Stufkosky, James Tran, Paul Van Hoy Bill Brandel senior wine editor Published eleven times a year Jessie Birschbach [email protected] ISSN# 2153-0122 USPS 476-430 senior editor Chairman/CEO: Anthony Dias Blue Kate Newton [email protected] President/COO: Meridith May special projects editor Subscription Rate: $36 One Year; $60 Two Years; Single Copy: $6.95 David Gadd [email protected] For all subscriptions, email: [email protected] Periodicals Postage Paid at Van Nuys and at additional mailing offices east coast editor David Ransom Devoted to the interests and welfare of United States restaurant and retail store licensees, wholesalers, rocky mountain editor importers and manufacturers in the beverage industry. Ruth Tobias POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: The Tasting Panel Magazine features editor 6345 Balboa Blvd; Ste 111, Encino, California 91316, Michelle Ball 818-990-0350 editor-at-large Cliff Rames STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP wine country editor The Material in each issue of The Tasting Panel Magazine is protected Chris Sawyer by U.S. Copyright © 2018 vp / finance director USPS Publication Number: 0476-430 Anna Russell [email protected] Filing Date: September 13, 2018 Published: 11x a year spirits editor Annual Subscription Rate: $36. Mailing address: 6345 Balboa Blvd; Ste 111, Bldg 1, Encino, CA 91316 Mara Marski [email protected] Phone: 818-990-0350 Contact: Meridith May, Publisher administrative assistant Email: [email protected] Sierra Doxey Total copies run: 76,407. Outside County Paid/Requested: contributing editors 14,636. In-County Paid/Requested: 14,440. Sales through dealers Mitch Bechard, Ian Buxton, Emily Coleman, and carriers: 10,000. Distributed by other mail carriers and through USPS: 4875. Total Paid or requested: 43,951. Outside Richard Carleton Hacker, Matt Jackson, Kelly Magyarics, County non-requested: 6700. In County non-requested: 5356. Lori Moffatt, Merrill Shindler Non-requested copies distributed through USPS by other classes of mail: 6000. Non-requested copies distributed outside the mail: 6200. Non-requested copies distributed outside the mail: 6200. Total non-requested circulation: 18,056. Copies not ©2018 The Tasting Panel Magazine. All rights reserved. distributed: 2000. Total distribution: 70,207. Percent paid/or Reproduction in whole or part without written permission is prohibited. requested: 64%. october 2018 / the tasting panel / 3

TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 3 10/1/18 6:29 PM Disaronno’s latest partnership for its ICON bottle program is with Italian fashion label Trussardi. ETERNALLY Stylish DISARONNO’S ICON PROGRAM PROVES THE LIQUEUR NEVER GOES OUT OF FASHION

4 / the tasting panel / october 2018

TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 4 10/1/18 6:29 PM Bartender Daniel Kocsis mixes up Disaronno-based cocktails at Beaker & Gray in Miami, FL.

by Matt Jackson / photos by Benjamin Rusnak

In the case of Disaronno, one of the how the excitement around the ICON bottle program spirit industry’s oldest brands, age and relevancy go continues to grow every year.” hand in hand: Still owned and operated by the Reina Disaronno Amaretto is obviously well-known as an family, whose forebearers created the liqueur in Italian wintertime sipper, but its popularity regardless 1525, the company manages to maintain its small- of season remains both impressive and commendable. business feel despite its presence in more than 160 “Disaronno is very versatile and can be mixed in all countries worldwide. sorts of cocktails, from tiki-style drinks to twists on Disaronno employs just 13 brand ambassadors classics. It also complements many different spirits internationally, four of whom cover the U.S. market. from whiskies to mezcals,” Hirsch explains. “What I Among them is Miami-based Matt Hirsch, who shares like most about the various Disaronno Sour variations his passion for the luxurious liqueur with his close-knit is how refreshing they are. That refreshment is key in team. “Almost weekly we discuss what we are doing a place like Miami that offers summer all year long.” in each of our territories, including new ideas, trends, and innovations, in addition to sharing new cocktail Mixing Italian Sensibilities recipes,” he says. Miami bartender Daniel Kocsis also knows a thing or Just because Disaronno has been around for 500 two about Italian culture, despite being born and raised years doesn’t mean it can’t be on the cutting edge— a few hundred miles to the northeast. “I grew up in even when it comes to seemingly unrelated fields like Hungary, but at home Italian dishes were way more fashion. Five years ago, the company launched the popular than Hungarian ones,” Kocsis explains. “My ICON bottle program, inviting leading Italian fashion stepmom was always looking up classic Italian dishes brands to design limited-edition holiday bottles meant and desserts.” He now incorporates these sensibilities to highlight Italian luxury. Past powerhouse partner- into his approach to mixology at Beaker & Gray, a hip ships with Versace, Missoni, and Roberto Cavalli new hot spot in the city’s Wynwood neighborhood. dazzled both old and new fans of the liqueur, and this Kocsis recently crafted two original cocktails featur- year, Disaronno has partnered with the bold Trussardi ing Disaronno that he plans to showcase in the upcom- brand—itself more than a century old. In addition to ing ICON gift set flutes. The first, the Emma Morano, the limited-edition bottle, the holiday gift set will also serves as a riff on a traditional sour by highlighting the include a pair of elegant champagne flutes. liqueur alongside Italian apéritif Zucca (a member of “Our bottle is already one of the most iconic in the the Disaronno International portfolio), apricot liqueur, business and this program takes it to another level,” orgeat, lemon juice, and Prosecco. Served up with a Hirsch says. “This year, the Trussardi bottle is abso- thyme sprig, this light and airy libation immediately lutely stunning with its contemporary luxury design. I transports patrons’ taste buds to the cobblestone couldn’t be more excited about how it turned out and streets of Milan. Meanwhile, the second libation,

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TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 5 10/1/18 6:29 PM named Solo Pesce, melds Disaronno with strawberry, basil, Prosecco, and Cocci Americano for an unexpectedly delicious combination. Beaker & Gray’s menu of sharable plates—many of which feature locally LIMITED EDITION designed by Trussardi sourced ingredients—is also well-suited to Kocsis’ Disaronno-based cocktails. “Because of Disaronno’s lower ABV, slight bitterness, rounded sweetness, and delicious, nutty flavor, it plays well with so many of our dishes,” Kocsis says. Even though Disaronno has kept a close eye on the shifting demographics of its consumers over the years, it’s an unin- hibited willingness to try new things that this age-old company currently targets. “We want consumers who are most likely to go out regularly, drink quality brands, share their knowledge with others, and be open to experimenting with new cocktails,” Hirsch says. Kocsis agrees: Based in Miami, FL, Matt Hirsch serves as one of Disaronno’s U.S. ambas- “I serve a lot of guests who are actually sadors. Find him on Instagram at @MisterHirsch or follow the hashtag hungry for more knowledge in spirits, #DisaronnoWearsTrussardi to learn more about the brand’s ICON program. liqueurs, and cocktail culture. Being able to provide that knowledge is one of the things that helps me succeed as a bartender,” he adds. Beyond the inventive ICON program, Disaronno’s team continues to push the Emma Morano Solo Pesce envelope when it comes to the brand’s Created by Daniel Kocsis Created by Daniel Kocsis overall awareness of and involvement ◗ 1 oz. Disaronno ◗ 1.5 oz. Disaronno in cocktail culture. Its new video series, ◗ ◗ The Mixing Star: Innovation Hunter, 1 oz. Prosecco 1 oz. Cocchi Americano aims to showcase global bartenders ◗ ¼ oz. Zucca ◗ 1.5 oz. Prosecco and their cutting-edge cocktails, ◗ ¼ oz. apricot liqueur ◗ ¼ oz. olive oil while spinoff The Mixing Star: Bar ◗ ¾ oz. orgeat ◗ 1 strawberry Tag—launched at this year’s Tales of ◗ ¼ oz. lemon juice ◗ 1 lemon wedge the Cocktail—challenges two leading ◗ ½ oz. heavy cream ◗ 2 basil leaves bartenders to swap roles by working ◗ ½ oz. egg white ◗ Pinch of salt in each other’s bars and inspiring new Serve in a flute glass Serve in a flute glass ideas among their peers. and garnish with a and garnish with a basil “We fly a top bartender from Milan to thyme sprig. leaf and lemon twist. London, then take a top bartender from London and fly them here to Miami and so on, like a global game of bartender tag,” Hirsch explains. “Each event is unique and special with some amazing knowledge Kocsis’ Solo being shared along the way.” With nearly Pesce cocktail five centuries of tradition and innovation is a refresh- ITALIAN SPARKLER at work, there seems to be no limit to ing libation Disaronno’s universal reach. featuring 2 OZ PROSECCO, 1.5 OZ DISARONNO Disaronno For more on this year’s ICON that’s ideal 1 OZ LEMON JUICE, 0.5 OZ SIMPLE SYRUP program, view the hashtag for Miami’s #DisaronnoWearsTrussardi on year-round social media and follow Disaronno summer Brand Ambassador Matt Hirsch on weather. Instagram @MisterHirsch. www. disaronno.com DRINK RESPONSIBLY 6 / the tasting panel / october 2018

TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 6 10/1/18 6:29 PM LIMITED EDITION designed by Trussardi

ITALIAN SPARKLER 2 OZ PROSECCO, 1.5 OZ DISARONNO 1 OZ LEMON JUICE, 0.5 OZ SIMPLE SYRUP

www. disaronno.com DRINK RESPONSIBLY october 2018 / the tasting panel / 7

TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 7 10/1/18 6:29 PM contents PHOTO:RUBIN ALEXANDER October 2018 Vol. 76 No. 9

4 2 up front features special feature

4 ETERNALLY STYLISH 62 BY A NOSE 80 SPOOKTACULAR SPIRITS Disaronno’s ICON Program Proves the The Game of Wines Blind Tasting Join The Tasting Panel as Liqueur Never Goes Out of Fashion at the Society of Wine Educators We Hocus-Focus on Some Conference Proves an Entertaining of Our Favorite Brown and Challenge for Sommeliers Flavored Spirits

cover story 68 THE WILLAMETTE EXPRESS Speed-Tasting Nearly 100 Oregon SPOOK- Pinot Noirs with Meridith May and Spook- 50 RIOJA’S NEWFOUND EDGE Anthony Dias Blue tacular TACULAR After More Than 150 Years of Production, Bodegas Faustino 78 SCENTS AND SENSIBILITY Spirits Defies Convention Spirits Sipsmith Gin Hosts Bay Area JOIN THE TASTING PANEL AS WE HOCUS- FOCUS ON SOME OF OUR FAVORITE Bartenders for a Botanical Fragrance BROWN AND FLAVORED SPIRITS Workshop bab

8 / the tasting panel / october 2018

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PHOTO: ALEXANDER RUBIN contents October 2018 Vol. 76 No. 9

departments

12 Industry Spotlight 18 Letter from the Editor 20 Ransom Note 22 Gin: Loch & Union 24 Scotch Report 26 Lone Star Libations 28 Capitol Chill 30 Somm’s List 32 5 Minutes With . . . Lindsay Pomeroy, MW 34 Where We’re Eating 36 Mara’s Bar 38 ForceBrands Movers & Shakers 42 Drinks with Kim Beto: Boich Family Cellar 44 What We’re Drinking: Acumen 48 Winery Spotlight: McManis Family Vineyards 54 Blue Reviews 58 Publisher’s Picks 74 Who’s Who: Top San Diego Somms 76 Essential Cocktails: Jack & Coke 78 Event Recap: Sipsmith Gin 87 On the Vine: Sonoma County Zinfandel 88 Frozen Cocktails: Kelvin Slush Co. 92 Women Leaders in the Industry 94 Taking Inventory PHOTO: BENJAMIN RUSNAK 10 / the tasting panel / october 2018 4 TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 10 10/1/18 6:29 PM 10/1/18 6:29 PM TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 11

PHOTO: BENJAMIN RUSNAK INDUSTRY SPOTLIGHT

Brown-Forman Presents Distributor of the Year Awards Black is the rown-Forman recently Bannounced its Distributor of the Year awards for fiscal year 2018. Young’s Market Company California was recognized as the Footprint Division Distributor of new green the Year, while Republic National Distributing Company Kentucky was named the Prime Division Distributor of the Year. Athens Distributing Tennessee earned the honor of Select Division Distributor of the Year, and Breakthru Beverage Group Arizona was presented with the second annual Brown-Forman Alcohol Responsibility Award.

Gary Lederer, Executive Vice President of Breakthru Beverage Group Arizona, and Johnny Manuel, Senior Vice President/ Sales Director–USA & Canada for Brown-Forman.

Don Wolz, Executive Vice President– David Bart, General Manager–California Kentucky of Republic National for Young’s Market Company, with Manuel. Distributing Company, with Brown- K INK 2 Forman’s Johnny Manuel. AC 0 L 15 B

BEST

W VALUES IN R E TO Fetzer Vineyards Honored by B Lab for SPECTA Increased Impact in Sustainability INK CK 20 A 1 s it celebrates its 50th anni- B Corporations are for-profit com- evolve and improve our sustainabil- L 5 B

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panies that meet rigorous standards ity initiatives,” says Fetzer Vineyards versary of earth-friendly

winegrowing, Fetzer Vineyards of social and environmental perfor- CEO Cindy DeVries. BEST

has been recognized as a Certified mance, accountability, and transpar- In keeping with its plans for W with a top 10 red blend* BUY T B Corporation “Changemaker” ency. Fetzer Vineyards is the largest continuous improvement, Fetzer IN S E IA based on a comprehensive assess- winery in the world certified as a B Vineyards has set a goal to replace ENTHUS ment by the nonprofit B Lab. This Corporation and ranks among the all negative environmental impacts award recognizes Fetzer Vineyards’ first recipients of the Changemaker by 2030 with positive impacts progress toward enhancing its honor. “We are humbled by this that enhance and regenerate Juicy blackberry cobbler merges with ﬂavors of leadership in sustainability in the recognition, which highlights our ecosystems and communities while licorice and mocha followed by a rich, wine industry and beyond. company-wide efforts to continue to producing sustainable growth. decadent ﬁnish. BLACKINKWINE.COM 12 / the tasting panel / october 2018 * Domestic Red Blend $8-$10 ARP: Nielsen total Food/ Drug / Liquor latest 52 weeks WE 7/14/18

TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 12 10/1/18 6:29 PM Black is the new green

K INK 2 AC 0 L 15 B

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W VALUES IN R E TO SPECTA

K INK 2 AC 0 L 15 B

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BEST

W with a top 10 red blend* BUY T IN S E IA ENTHUS Juicy blackberry cobbler merges with ﬂavors of licorice and mocha followed by a rich, decadent ﬁnish. BLACKINKWINE.COM

* Domestic Red Blend $8-$10 ARP: Nielsen total Food/ Drug / Liquor latest 52 weeks WE 7/14/18

TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 13 10/1/18 6:29 PM INDUSTRY SPOTLIGHT

Rombauer Vineyards Names Guarachi Wine Alison Surgeon National Sales Partners to Manager, Welcomes Kristine Represent VIK TIME BUILDS Pederson Luxury Brand uarachi Wine Partners has lison Surgeon has been promoted to National Sales Manager at Gwelcomed wine industry CHARACTER ARombauer Vineyards. Surgeon joined the company in October 2004 leader VIK as its newest as a Sales and Marketing Assistant before rising through the ranks to innovative luxury brand. become California Sales Manager and, most recently, Northern California Beginning in January, Guarachi CLINE FAMILY CELLARS and Hawaii Regional Sales Manager. Surgeon is a graduate of the Wine Partners will represent Executive MBA for Wine Business program at Sonoma State University, the complete VIK portfolio for 2016 ANCIENT VINES ZINFANDEL where she also earned an sales, marketing, and distribu- undergraduate degree in tion throughout the U.S. business administration. “I’ve always had a special “Alison has been a interest in following the passionate, unrelenting changing trends of the South brand ambassador from American wine landscape the very beginning,” says over the decades,” said Alex Rombauer President and Guarachi, CEO and founder of CEO Bob Knebel. “Our Guarachi Wine Partners. “VIK entire team is thrilled to is unlike anything I’ve seen see her receive this well- from South America, which is deserved promotion.” why I’m very excited for this Stepping into Surgeon’s Alison Surgeon. Kristine Pederson. partnership—their winemak- former position is Kristine ing, philosophy, innovation, Pederson, most recently a Senior Account Specialist with Monterey Bay and overall quality will rival Wine Company. A graduate of the University of California, Davis, and a First Growths from Bordeaux.” Certified Sommelier and Certified Specialist of Wine, Pederson has more For more information, visit than 20 years of experience in the wine industry. guarachiwinepartners.com.

Brian Baker Appointed General Manager of Mayacamas Vineyards

rian Baker has been appointed BGeneral Manager of historic Napa Valley vineyard and winery Mayacamas Vineyards. Prior to his appointment, Baker served as the Vice President of Sales and Marketing at Chateau Montelena Winery in Calistoga, where he oversaw global sales and marketing activities. Baker’s introduction to the wine PHOTO COURTESY OF MAYACAMAS VINEYARDS OF MAYACAMAS COURTESY PHOTO The Tasting Panel, September 2018 93 business arrived in 2004, when he was POINTS appointed Vice President–Consumer Relationship Management at Jackson Family Wines in Santa Rosa. He holds a Certified Specialist of Planet Grape, October 2018 93 Wine (CSW) credential and is an alumnus of the University of POINTS Southern California.

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© 2018 Cline Cellars, Sonoma CA clinecellars.com CHARACTER BUILDSTIME The Tasting Panel, 2016 ANCIENT VINES ZINFANDEL VINES 2016 ANCIENT Planet Grape, Planet Wine Spectator, Wine CLINE FAMILYCLINE CELLARS September 2018 September

October 2018 October

June 2018 June 93 93 91 POINTS POINTS POINTS 10/1/18 6:29 PM INDUSTRY SPOTLIGHT

Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits of Nevada Announces Brian Van Flandern as Executive Director of Mixology, Spirit Education, and Special Events

outhern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits Sof Nevada has announced Brian Van Flandern will serve as its new Executive Director of Mixology, Spirit Education, and Special Events. Van Flandern is an award- winning author and mixologist with more than 25 years of expertise in the spirits industry. His fifth book, Whiskey Cocktails, is set to be released this fall. Before joining Southern Glazer’s, Van Flandern served as the President and founder of the mixology consulting firm Creative Cocktail Consultants, designing and implementing successful cocktail programs for prestigious clientele like Thomas Keller and Geoffrey Zakarian. In addition to being named “America’s Top Mixologist” by the Food Network, Bartenders’ Guild, of which he is professionals can attend educa- Van Flandern was also the first- a founding board member for the tional opportunities led by expert ever Global Brand Ambassador New York chapter. mixologists, Master Sommeliers, appointed by Diageo and is In his new role, Van Flandern will cicerones, and more. For more recognized as a certified Spirits oversee the Southern Glazer’s Wine information, visit southernglazers. Professional by the United States & Spirits Academy, where industry com/location/nevada.

On The Rocks Cocktails Partners with Beam Suntory

n The Rocks Cocktails has recently teamed up Owith Beam Suntory to integrate the premium spirits company’s renowned expressions into each cocktail in On the Rocks’ portfolio. On The Rocks creates award-winning cocktails using only natural ingredients and quality spirits sourced from all over the world. Each cocktail aims to deliver the complexity and craftsmanship of an acclaimed bar without the need for multiple ingredients or equipment. For more information, visit ontherockscocktails.com. © 2018 Ruffino Import Company, Rutherford, CA Rutherford, © 2018 Ruffino Import Company, Please enjoy our wines responsibly.

16 / the tasting panel / october 2018

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I constantly receive an abundance of industry PR materials that lay out in detail which wines

PHOTO: JEREMY BALL PHOTO: and spirits are hot in the marketplace . . . and which, of course, are not.

In a way, it’s kind of like watching the stock market. In 1976—the year I started writing about wine—Eastman Kodak, Sears Roebuck, and F.W. Woolworth were powerful and proud members of the Dow Jones Industrial Average. Today all three have been banished from the Dow; in fact, they’re barely limping along as they desperately try to avoid extinction. I’ve been observing the ebb and flow in wine and spirits since that time, and one thing has remained consistent: changing tastes. The market is in constant flux. Remember when bourbon was almost dead? Remember Ipana Toothpaste? I’ve been around long enough to remember when the most popular white wines were called “Chablis”—a purloined term used to describe a blend of French Colombard and Thompson Seedless—and the red star was named “Burgundy,” another term stolen from the French used to describe a wine that was mostly Zinfandel. But I don’t need the sales figures, really. I have my own way of reading the market: All I have to do is monitor the samples sent to me each week. For example, I sang the praises of rosé for years, but it was like a tree falling in the wilderness. Now my bins are overflowing with them. And back in the ’80s, when consumers discovered and fell for Merlot, everybody began producing the variety. It was overplanted, often in places where it shouldn’t have been cultivated in the first place. Business was booming . . . until it wasn’t. Thanks to one line in Sideways, the Merlot movement stopped dead. My samples dried up and were replaced by Pinot Noir, the variety touted in that same seminal movie. If I got three or four Pinots in a year before 2004, it was a lot. This year I’ve already received and tasted more than 100, and 500-plus since the beginning of 2017. Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon have been mainstays throughout my career, but when I started getting lots of Prosecco, I knew something was afoot. The same goes for tequila and now mezcal. I could go on and on, but I won’t. All I’m trying to say is that if I want to put my finger on the pulse of the “latest thing,” all I have to do is ask my UPS and FedEx guys—saving me time I’d much rather spend tasting, of course.

18 / the tasting panel / october 2018

TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 18 10/1/18 6:29 PM TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 19 10/1/18 6:29 PM The Ransom Note is a monthly column by Tasting Panel East Coast Editor David Ransom. Each month, David connects readers with some of the people, products, and events making news along the Eastern Seaboard. INTRODUCING our new AVA wines Two High-End Wines from Both Sides of the Atlantic

story and photos by David Ransom

ow that summer is behind us and fall is in full swing, it’s time to focus our attention on wines that complement the heartier fare this season Nand the next bring to our tables and restaurant menus. In New York, I recently connected with two legendary producers: one from California and the other from Bordeaux in a personal reenactment of the Judgment of Paris. First, during an intimate lunch at Boulud Sud, the Lincoln Center–area When it comes to wine, Mediterranean bistro by famed chef Daniel Boulud, I got the inside scoop on the wines of Château Angélus from eighth-generation owner and place is everything. Managing Director Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal. Imported by Millesima USA, Angélus is one of Saint- The finest wines in the world are Émilion’s most historic Premier Grand Cru Classe “A” properties, closely identified with the regions making beautiful wines from its from which they originate. Our estate plantings of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. estate vineyards are within the In an age where Bordeaux has seen so many competitors Arroyo Seco, San Lucas and Hames chip away at its market share, Valley AVAs of Monterey County. production costs and real estate prices have also skyrocketed, Ranch 32 highlights the natural prompting many chateaux to sell characteristics of each location's to investors. The de Boüard de LaForest family, who founded terroir and conveys the distinctive the estate in 1782, has staunchly taste of place. resisted that urge as they con- Château Angélus owner and tinue to lead their estate boldly Managing Director Stéphanie de into the future. Boüard-Rivoal at Boulud Sud. Next, over dinner at Mastro’s Steakhouse with Napa’s Judgment of Paris hero Bo Barrett of Chateau Montelena, Chateau Montelena’s Bo Barrett with I tried a vertical selection of Tasting Panel East Coast Editor David exemplary Cabernet Sauvignon Ransom at Mastro’s Steakhouse in from Barrett’s Calistoga winery. New York. (Founded in 1882, it was purchased by Bo’s father, Jim Barrett, in 1972.) Poured that evening were Estate Cabernets from 1996, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008, and 2015, the current release. Tasting these wines provided further proof that Chateau Montelena continues to live up to the legacy of the historic Paris tasting with its classic Napa Valley bottlings. When inspired to add to the top end of your list for red-wine season this fall, consider these producers. You may find wines that are currently more popular than those from this pair of legends, but you won’t find better. ARROYO SECO | SAN LUCAS | HAMES VALLEY

20 / the tasting panel / october 2018 RANCH32WINES. COM • 888.772.4343

TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 20 10/1/18 6:29 PM INTRODUCING our new AVA wines

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ARROYO SECO | SAN LUCAS | HAMES VALLEY

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TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 21 10/1/18 6:29 PM GIN A Story Like No Other PHOTO COURTESY OF LOCH & UNION

The Team at Loch & Union Distilling in Napa, CA: Gian P. Nelson, Chief Distiller and Winemaker; Colin Baker, co-founder and Master Distiller; Matthew The Count Meyer, co-founder and Of buena vista Director of Business FOUNDER’S RED WINE, SONOMA COUNTY Operations; Gordon Russell, Head Distiller; and Jesse Saunders, Lead Distiller. PLATINUM MEDAL, 94 POINTS SAN DIEGO INTERNATIONAL WINE & SPIRITS CHALLENGE

DOUBLE GOLD SONOMA COUNTY HARVEST FAIR

The Spirit of Napa Valley CHATEAU BUENA VISTA LOCH & UNION PRODUCES AWARD-WINNING GIN CABERNET SAUVIGNON IN THE HEART OF WINE COUNTRY NAPA VALLEY by Emily Coleman BEST OF CLASS SAN FRANCISCO CHRONICLE WINE COMPETITION och & Union Distilling’s American Loch & Union creates a high-quality Dry Gin exemplifies the notion that gin built for the connoisseur while 95 POINTS Lexceptional works of art take time also being approachable for the casual THE TASTING PANEL to create and even longer to perfect. The spirits drinker. team at the Napa-based distillery spent Having just announced its national 93 POINTS WINE ENTHUSIAST three years developing a product to fit launch in September, Loch & Union their vision of a new caliber of American Distilling is debuting online nation- spirits, testing more than 150 botanicals wide, as well as statewide in California Buena Vista Winery, pioneer of and distilling 100-plus ingredients to with a focus on restaurants, bars, and ensure the final product had the exact hotels in the Bay Area and greater the California wine world since flavor profile they sought. Los Angeles area. The brand plans to After navigating through this continue expanding distribution and 1857, brings its history to life extensive process, they finally landed availability across the country in the with The Count Founder’s Red on the perfect balance of 12 botanicals coming months. sourced from outstanding farms in ten Since the initial release of the and Chateau Buena Vista Napa countries. These flavor profiles produce American Dry Gin at a local level in the Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. a clean spirit with layers of complex- Napa area last March, Loch & Union ity, beginning with the traditional has already received a number of backbone of juniper and leading awards and accolades. Once consum- into warming spice, floral, and citrus ers are introduced to this new expres- notes. The stills used to create the sion, there’s little doubt it will become a Loch & Union American Dry Gin were go-to for gin lovers across the country Download Out the Bottle app and scan the custom-made by the world-renowned in no time—proving good spirits come CARL Artisan Distilleries and Brewing to those who work hard for them. Count label for an interactive experience! Systems, the oldest still fabricator in Germany. Combining a meticulous For more information on the attention to detail during distillation company and Loch & Union products, california’s first. california’s finest. with a fine-tuned blend of botanicals, visit lochandunion.com. www.buenavistawinery.com

22 / the tasting panel / october 2018

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TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 22 10/1/18 6:29 PM A Story Like No Other

The Count Of buena vista FOUNDER’S RED WINE, SONOMA COUNTY

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CHATEAU BUENA VISTA CABERNET SAUVIGNON NAPA VALLEY

BEST OF CLASS SAN FRANCISCO CHRONICLE WINE COMPETITION 95 POINTS THE TASTING PANEL 93 POINTS WINE ENTHUSIAST

Buena Vista Winery, pioneer of the California wine world since 1857, brings its history to life with The Count Founder’s Red and Chateau Buena Vista Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Download Out the Bottle app and scan the

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california’s first. california’s finest. www.buenavistawinery.com

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TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 23 10/1/18 6:29 PM Wickedly Bold From ghoulishly gnarled vines come rich, full-bodied wines An Early Glimpse of Holiday Releases

by Ian Buxton Last Drop Distillers, for our malt portfolio. We’re lucky to meanwhile, has have three very different distilleries, and f the activity from Scotland’s distill- announced the release this showcase will allow us to share the eries is anything to go by, I sense of two single cask stories of each and highlight how they’re points Ithe holidays may be just around the malt whiskies dating reflected in the bold new releases,” says 92CHARDONNAY corner. There’s a raft of new whiskies back to 1968 from the Derek Scott, Brand Director for Malt 2016 Central Coast headed across the Atlantic and a lot to Glenrothes distillery. Whisky at Distell, Burn Stewart Distillers’ enjoy this season. Pricing and further parent company. The Tasting Panel Magazine One eagerly awaited highlight this details are available Another distillery that has recently time of year is the via its website, but refreshed its range and look is Old announcement of hurry—just 309 bottles are available Pulteney, a true maritime malt from Diageo’s Special worldwide. the traditional fishing town of Wick on Releases series. This Burn Stewart Distillers has also Scotland’s North Sea coast. The new year’s collection is revised its portfolio of rare malts. core collection features a flagship 12 quite groundbreak- Distributed via Terlato Wines, the Year Old, as well as 15 and 18 Year Old ing, with the inclu- releases are being shipped to market versions and another called Huddart. sion of an Inchgower throughout the fall in advance of the It’s apparently named for the street on (55.3% ABV; $359) holiday season. The range comprises which the distillery is located—in turn bottling and the the Tobermory 2005 (12 Year Old) Fino named after Captain Joseph Huddart seldom-seen Lowland Cask Finish ($175); Ledaig 1998 (19 Year of the British Fisheries Society, which Single Grain Carsebridge (43.2%; $959), Old) PX Cask Finish ($200); Deanston built Pulteneytown and its harbour. which closed in 1983. 2008 Brandy Cask Finish ($85); and two This move marks a reinvigoration of There are ten bottlings in all, the whiskies from Islay, the Bunnahabhain the core range for the award-winning most interesting of 2008 Mòine Bordeaux Red Wine Cask Caithness-based distillery; comple- which may be the Matured ($110) and a Palo Cortado mented by a distinctive new design and tenth—Cladach, a Cask Finish ($500). packaging, it seems as if it’s already blended malt Scotch “This has been a revolutionary year wearing its holiday best. whisky (57.1%) that captures the character of Scotland’s coastline. It features a blend from six famous distilleries: Caol Ila, Clynelish, Lagavulin, Oban, Inchgower, and Talisker. Frustratingly, it is not immediately available in the U.S., though some U.K. online specialists will ship depending on the market.

TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 24 10/1/18 6:30 PM Wickedly Bold From ghoulishly gnarled vines come rich, full-bodied wines points 92CHARDONNAY 2016 Central Coast The Tasting Panel Magazine

TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 25 10/1/18 6:30 PM Scott Ota, General Manager and Wine Director for High Street Wine Company, offers more than 240 selections to adventurous drinkers in San Antonio.

The Man Behind the Brands An Earthly Art Form SAN ANTONIO’S SCOTT OTA WANTS TO POUR YOU A GLASS

story and photo by Lori Moffatt

n a leafy nook of San Antonio’s his- cloths,” he explains. “It’s just us in jeans for its place, prestige, process, and toric 22-acre Pearl Brewery develop- and T-shirts, pouring wine and talking.” what have you.” Iment, Advanced Sommelier Scott Ota High Street serves wines, beers, and Readily enthusing about future High and his staff of ten at High Street Wine ciders from around the world, offering Street projects like cellar storage space Company take inspiration from beer palate-expanding options for customers and a “wine dive” serving outstanding culture to excite their customers about seeking recommendations. “It’s never value-priced bottles, Ota seems to have wine. Historians might say it’s a perfect about what I like; it’s about what’s best one cohesive goal: to do whatever it fit, as German brewers first made lager for them,” Ota explains. “If someone takes to help people fall in love with here in 1833, transporting their beer by orders a Pinot Grigio because it’s a wine wine. “Like music and art, wine is an wagon to thirsty residents of the new they recognize, I tell them, sure, we have art form that’s expressive of culture, American city. a banging Pinot by the glass. But if they geology, history, politics, economics . . . “When we looked for inspiration want to try something new, we have this all those things,” he says. Knowing he’ll for High Street, we looked at wine Albariño that’s a little more floral, and never master it all is fine by Ota: It only bars all across the United States,” maybe they should give it a taste.” keeps him thirsty for more. says Ota, a Houston native who loves With 240 wines from roughly 20 white Burgundy, light Italian reds, and distributors occupying his list, Ota says Freelance writer and agave lover

anything sparkling. “I looked to beer he focuses first and foremost on value. Lori Moffatt covered Texas travel topics ins gardens, too—I love how well they “Is a wine representative of a great for more than two decades at Texas l El chae integrate community.” And because place or process? For example, if I’m Highways, the state’s award-winning © Mi Ota believes “the idea behind wine is to going to get a Chianti from Tuscany, it monthly travel magazine. When she’s

share it with somebody [and] to create better taste like sour cherries and fresh not writing about cocktails, wine, art, . Ph oto C LL

conversation,” they opt for a welcom- herbs,” he says with a laugh. “But it and pop culture from her home in , ts,

ing, casual atmosphere at High Street. doesn’t matter if it’s a $20 bottle or an Austin, she’s traveling, making art, and piri S “There are no suits, no pins, no table- $800 bottle: It still should deliver value practicing Spanish. 123spirits.com

20 17 1 23 EU Organic 26 / the tasting panel / october 2018 ©

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TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 26 10/1/18 6:30 PM The Man Behind the Brands ins l El chae © Mi . Ph oto C LL , ts, piri S 123spirits.com

20 17 1 23 EU Organic ©

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TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 27 10/1/18 6:30 PM CAP TOL Bidding Farewell to Lazy,

Hazy Summer Days photos and story by Kelly Magyarics, DWS

ave you ever spent a Friday evening noshing on ants from the Brazilian rainforest before realizing they taste uncannily like lemon and ginger? That’s Hprecisely what I did to kick off Amazon Week in Washington, D.C., which celebrated the Independence of Brazil in 1822. Sponsored by the Embassy of Brazil and Destination DC, a dinner held at Siren by Robert Wiedmaier featured dishes by Brazilian chefs Felipe Schaedler and Alex Atala. Together they developed recipes with ingredients straight out of the Amazon, including black tapioca, seared pirarucu filets, and crispy tambaqui ribs. (That’s right, fish grow so large in the Amazon that they actually have baby back–sized ribs.) After finishing a citrus-y, well-shaken Leblon Cachaça Caipirinha, we sampled a selection of wines from Brazilian producer Vinícola Salton. Highlights were the complex and refreshing rosé sparkler and the fruity yet earthy Pinot Noir. As for those ants, the little buggers served as the perfect topping for sweet potato puree. I could have had a sprinkling or two more: legs and all. While you can’t get ants at chef Victor Albisu’s new upscale Mexican restaurant Poca Madre, you can order the Charlie & the Chapuline Factory, a mezcal cocktail garnished with grasshoppers. On a sweltering summer evening, I opted instead for the 1821 Gin Tonic, which mixes a mezcal/gin hybrid from Gracias a Dios with Fever-Tree Mediterranean Tonic. It’s adorned with dried orange, hibiscus, juniper, and a cucumber ribbon. Sauva ants from the On the other side of the drink spectrum was another Amazon, which taste mezcal sipper: the Fat Duck Old Fashioned with Ron like lemon and ginger, Zacapa 23 Years, foie gras honey, and mole bitters were served at a recent topped with honeycomb and a thin slice of black dinner at Siren. truffle. If you’re a fan of funky and earthy flavors, don’t overlook the huitsquites, Albisu’s corn risotto with parmesan, truffles, Tajín, popcorn, and huitlacoche, the fungus that grows on ears of corn. Does it look like The Fat Duck Old something you shouldn’t think of eating? For sure. Is Fashioned at Poca it addictively delicious? Absolutely. I finished the night Madre is topped with by cleansing my palate with Mezcalito Pal’Alma, a earthy truffle. cannabis-infused mezcal. It’s perfect for when you want a little toke with your smoke. Sometimes, though, you just want a fruity drink outside on a sunny evening. The blue umbrella–topped patio tables at Café du Parc in The Willard InterContinental Hotel overlook Pennsylvania Avenue and make for perfect people-watching spots, especially when it comes to the confused throngs of summer tourists descending upon the double-decker tour buses. We may have a long wait until the flowers bloom again, but it’s endless spring when you order the Blushing Blossom, a sweet, bright-red libation inspired by D.C.’s iconic pink blossoms that features sparkling wine, rosé, triple sec, and cherries.

Kelly Magyarics, DWS, is a wine, spirits, and lifestyle writer and wine educator in the Washington, D.C. area. She can be reached through her website, kellymagyarics.com, or on Twitter and Instagram @kmagyarics.

28 / the tasting panel / october 2018

TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 28 10/1/18 6:30 PM TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 29 10/1/18 6:30 PM We’ve partnered with Chef’s Roll & Somm’s List, the global culinary and wine professional networks, to learn more about beverage experts from across the country.

PHOTO:CHRISTENSEN ALEXA NEW PHOTO: FOTIO ALEXA DELGADO Lead Bartender at Lightkeepers at the Ritz-Carlton Key Biscayne in Miami, FL

What sets the Miami bar scene apart from those in other major cities? Miami itself is a loud and vibrant city built up of different neighborhoods—all with their own personality and energy—and I would have to say the same is true for our drinking culture. As a tropical destination, we’re known for frozen drinks served in carved-out fruits with tiny umbrellas; we’ve also had this reputation of being a crazy party city full of nightclubs. Over the last few years, however, we’ve seen this emergence of crafted cocktails, spirits, and beer. We have hundreds of brewers, bartenders, and distillers looking to create products that are unique to our city and showcase the person- 2016 MERLOT alities of these different areas. Then aside from all of that, we also have plenty of room for all the classic dive bars, so it’s really a city made for people with all sorts of different tastes.

Do you incorporate any unconventional techniques into your cocktails at Lightkeepers? I’ve always been a little apprehensive about using fire or dry ice in a cocktail, given the level of safety we need while handling and serving it. However, we’ve offered a few featured cocktails at the bar that use different styles of production methods. We recently created a cocktail using oleo saccharum, which we prepped and batched with a sous-vide device. It cut preparation time way down. We also play around with dilution: While a regular ice cube is going to melt and water down a drink, we offer a cocktail that has lime juice/elderflower/coconut water cubes in it, so as they melt the flavor profile of the drink changes.

POINTS STEVEN AIGNER 92 Mixologist/Bar Manager at The River Grill in Newburgh, NY

PHOTO: JOHN PUGH JOHN PHOTO: Tell us about your experience thus far with The River Grill and what distinguishes its October 2018 cocktail program. My experience at The River Grill has been great—it’s the place where I started. I left briefly last June and worked until September at Liberty Street Bistro in Newburgh, helping them start their bar program. When I came back in September 2017, I was made Manager and Head Bartender. What separates our drinks from the other restaurants in the area is that everything we use is made in-house, including syrups and purees. We also try and use liqueurs you don’t typically see at places in the area. TRY OUR LATEST RELEASE

How have you adjusted your style as a mixologist to serve a place as diverse as New York? Especially in the Hudson Valley, a lot of residents aren’t from here, so the way I’ve adapted that to my style is trying to showcase the actual flavors of the area itself. Coming into the fall, we use a lot of local apples and pears to bring a seasonal look to the drink list that shows what the Hudson Valley has to offer.

If you are a mixologist or wine professional interested in being featured here or want more information on Chef’s Roll and Somm’s List, please email [email protected]. SMOOTH • DARK • PLUSH

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2016 MERLOT

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October 2018

TRY OUR LATEST RELEASE

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TP1018_001-31_KNV5.indd 31 10/1/18 6:30 PM Lindsay Pomeroy, MW

by Michelle Metter

Congratulations on your achievement of earning the prestigious Master of Wine designation. Can you tell us a little about your journey? Gosh, it’s hard to give it a start time, but let’s say I’ve been studying wine since 2005 and have been in the Master of Wine program since 2013. There was a lot of work leading up to being accepted into the program, including the WSET diploma, which takes two years to achieve. The Master of Wine path was its own beast—I didn’t really know much about it or what to expect. I think if I knew how hard it was and how much it would take, I’m not sure I would do it, so it worked out that I jumped in feet first! In the end, I ended up spending more than 5,000 hours just for the MW path. It was definitely a huge commitment of time, energy, and money, plus the heartbreak of the years I didn’t pass a section.

What surprised you most about the process? How much I needed others: my friends and family for laughter and support, my amazing MW mentors and study mates, my students—who both emotionally and financially supported me— and everyone else along the way. It was truly a community effort, and that was the most beautiful thing to experience. When you do difficult things, you need a team to get you through it.

You will be leading a session during SommCon on advanced study tips. What are some key pieces of wisdom you have for others studying for their advanced credential? Be prepared to sacrifice and learn to live with not knowing what will happen. Detach from your expectation of how the process will go for you, and join a consistent, reliable, and serious tasting group to challenge yourself. This was key to offset costs, espe- indsay Pomeroy’s Master of Wine title cially for blind-tasting. comes with some asterisks worth noting: Also, be humble and compassionate with others and yourself. LShe joins a group numbering less than It’s hard to be a master or advanced-level taster—it takes practice 20 in the United States and 380 globally as she and focus. Don’t compare yourself to others, and find ways to claims her title as the first female Master of increase your confidence, not deflate it. Wine in San Diego. Pomeroy began teaching about wine in You have one glass of wine and five minutes: What are you drink- 2006 when she founded Wine Smarties, the ing, who are you with, and what are you listening to? A true visionary in the region, Gary Farrell Winery has crafted Southern California city’s first wine-education 1977 Vintage Port with my friends and family. I’m listening to my school. Full of pizazz and endless ideas, she own thoughts about how magical the wine is! exquisite Russian River Valley Pinot Noir & Chardonnay for 36 years. adds sparkle to the world of wine and is set to You see, we believe that extraordinary wines come only from extraordinary vineyards. serve as a featured guest lecturer at SommCon The Tasting Panel and The SOMM Journal are proud to serve as San Diego, planned for November 14–16. the media sponsors of SommCon San Diego (November 14–16). In the cellar we seek elegance and varietal purity over power or brawn. For schedule and registration details, visit sommconusa.com. The result? Beautifully balanced wines of exceptional depth and poise.

10701 Westside Road, Healdsburg, CA 95448 ~ 707 473 2900 ~ garyfarrellwinery.com 32 / the tasting panel / october 2018

TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 32 10/1/18 6:29 PM A true visionary in the region, Gary Farrell Winery has crafted exquisite Russian River Valley Pinot Noir & Chardonnay for 36 years. You see, we believe that extraordinary wines come only from extraordinary vineyards. In the cellar we seek elegance and varietal purity over power or brawn. The result? Beautifully balanced wines of exceptional depth and poise.

10701 Westside Road, Healdsburg, CA 95448 ~ 707 473 2900 ~ garyfarrellwinery.com

TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 33 10/1/18 6:29 PM WHERE WE'RE

The Warm Embrace of

Sweet Home Café by Merrill Shindler

he hottest ticket in Washington, D.C.—aside from an open seat on the Supreme Court—is the National Museum of African American THistory and Culture. Since it opened in September 2016, the venue has maintained what’s often a months-long waiting list for admission. Deservedly so, as it’s a brilliant, deeply affecting journey through the black experience in America, traversing from the devastating impacts of

C H slavery on the bottom floors to a timeline of cultural milestones on the A

M top floors.

O Separating the two worlds on the middle floor is a tribute to the joys

Y S

E of soul food via the Sweet Home Café, a cafeteria divided into four

T R

U culinary regions. The museum somewhat collegiately refers to them

S as the Agricultural South, the Creole Coast, the North States, and the

O H Western Range, which could also be described as the Deep South, New P Orleans, the Low Country (and beyond), and Texas. As guests push their trays from one region to another, they can ponder the pleasures of specials like the chicken and waffles served on Sundays (and apparently eaten by just about everyone in the Café). Last season’s Summer Fish Fry, meanwhile, featured cornmeal-dusted catfish, fried A popular dish at the Sweet Home Café in shrimp, and bay-spiced crab cakes served with hush puppies, sweet corn, the National Museum of African American fries, celery-seed coleslaw, potato salad, and tomato-and-watermelon salad. History and Culture is the pan-roasted These dishes are delicious enough to tempt you away from the usual rainbow trout with cornbread, mustard green fare . . . or perhaps not. It’s easier said than done with a menu featuring stuffing, and hazelnut brown butter. dishes like a Caribbean-style pepper pot; a barbeque beef brisket sand- wich on a sweet potato bun served with a charred peach and jalapeno chutney; and gulf shrimp and stone-ground grits from the Creole Coast. The latter, made using acclaimed artisanal grits from Anson Mills in Columbia, South Carolina, comes with smoked-tomato butter, caramel- ized leeks, and crispy-tasso cured pork. The venue’s bold exploration of ingredients and cooking techniques adds unlikely twists to standard soul-food staples, as seen with the sweet pea tendril salad served with shaved radishes, the hazelnut brown butter on the pan-roasted rainbow trout, and the sauce gribiche on the smoked haddock. Yet after taking a bite of the slow-cooked collard greens with cornbread sticks and potlikker, even the staunchest comfort-food hardliners will find it’s hardly a stretch to accept the presence of cranberry-walnut vinaigrette on their roast sweet potatoes. There’s praline bread pudding and key-lime cupcakes for dessert, and you can make the tea as sweet as you want it to be. This is culinary history: old and new, classic and modern. Considering it unfolds in a room of long tables with counters and stools lining two walls to evoke the 1960 sit-ins at Woolworth’s, that history is certainly felt—and tasted—with each bite visitors take.

The cafe serves Southern classics like gulf shrimp and stone- ground grits sourced from Anson Mills in South Carolina.

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Associate Editor Mara Marski is The Tasting Panel’s resident bartender.

Inn Genius AN EVENING AT THE BURBANK HILTON POINTS GARDEN INN EMBODIES THE RISE OF CAREFULLY CONSIDERED FOOD AND BEVERAGE IN HOTELS

hen I was invited to a recent tasting debuting new menus at the Hilton Jan/Feb 2018 Garden Inn in Burbank, a voice in the back of my mind said, “Pshhh, a Whotel F&B program—why would I give up my night for that?” But then I thought about NoMad . . . and the Freehand . . . and The Savoy. Suddenly, this subconscious prejudice seemed not just irrational, but downright silly. Some of the world’s most celebrated bars and restaurants can currently be found in hotels, so what was the reasoning behind my kneejerk dismissal? Aromas of spiced oak and While a meal or stay at the aforementioned establishments is very much a luxury for most, many of us have a wealth of undesirable memories gleaned perfumed blackberry engage from staying in hotels. I’m personally scarred by flashbacks to family excur- the senses. The flavors are sions where uninspired room service was our last dire food option—or business trips where a lack of time or transportation made me feel like a hostage indulgent yet held in check: in my own hotel room. I suppose I’m fairly representative of a modern-millennial professional, and violets, mocha-earth and I realized my own harsh impressions of hotel food and beverage are, ironi- cinnamon blueberry. The cally enough, likely part of the catalyst behind the Hilton Garden Inn refresh. So, I RSVPed. plush mouthfeel offers an The event itself was jovial: part cocktail party, part stylish small-plates smorgasbord, and part cooking demonstration from the brand’s celebrity- extended finish. chef partner, Dan Churchill. Despite the celebratory atmosphere, trepidation overtook me on my walk to the bar. “This was a mistake,” I thought, regretting the drink I hadn’t yet ordered. But then . . . it wasn’t. The team behind the bar was warm and attentive, the menu was full of fresh ingredients and brands I enjoy, and the cocktails were well-mixed and balanced. (I even watched the bartender muddle a medley of fresh berries into a Mojito made with fresh juice, pebble ice, and plenty of

verdant mint.) The food was similarly surprising, with dishes ranging from The newest additions to the PHOTO COURTESY OF HILTON GARDEN INN American comfort classics like burgers and fries to internationally inspired bar menu at Hilton Garden Inns plates like Korean bao street tacos. nationwide were chosen by a poll “We’re in the midst of a culinary renaissance, and today’s travelers are that received more than 250,000 eager for bold offerings that go beyond the expected,” John Greenleaf, the votes. Among the finalists is the Global Head of Hilton Garden Inn, told us during the event. I can’t help but Cherry Blossom with Hornitos agree: With the proliferation of Yelp, the Food Network, and social media in Reposado Tequila, lime juice, recent years, thoughtful F&B isn’t just a necessity—it’s a cultural zeitgeist. grapefruit, and grenadine. Many of us have stood by and watched as our industry undergoes a revolu- tion, but it’s refreshing and reassuring to see just how far the push for well-considered menus, ingredients, and service has spread. hopesendwine.com Imported by Trinchero Vineyards ©2018 Trinchero Vineyards, St. Helena, CA 94574 36 / the tasting panel / october 2018

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Jan/Feb 2018

Aromas of spiced oak and perfumed blackberry engage the senses. The flavors are indulgent yet held in check: violets, mocha-earth and cinnamon blueberry. The plush mouthfeel offers an extended finish.

TP1018_032-67_KNV5.inddHE-2018 Tasting Panel Full Page 37 Ad.indd 1 10/1/189/24/18 6:294:03 PMPM Movers & Shakers

orceBrands is the leading recruiting and staffing firm for the beverage, food, and beauty industries. We offer executive recruiting services, board of director Fassembly, and industry-specific job boards including BevForce—which connects global beverage companies with future leaders.

Bobby Romano has been named Vice President–Sales at Michel et Augustin. He had been Director of Retail Sales at Nourish Snacks.

Bliss Dake has been named Vice President–Marketing at Rogue Ales & Spirits. He had been Chief Marketing Officer at Golden Leaf Holdings.

Tyler Sievertsen has been named Digital Marketing Manager at Sweet Amber Distilling. He had been in hospitality at Hagafen Cellars.

Dana Capocci has been named Market Sales Manager–Midwest at Sweet Amber Distilling. She had been National Account Manager at Cintas.

CAREER CORNER Three Ways Remote Employees Can Stay Plugged into Team Culture

More U.S. employees are working remotely and for longer periods, according to a 2017 Gallup report that surveyed more than 15,000 workers. It’s an employment option that certainly has its perks: a private office space, fewer distractions, and more flexibility when it comes to scheduling. Despite these benefits, however, remote employees face unique challenges that can leave them feeling isolated from their in-office counterparts: It can be difficult to feel included in the team culture when you’re physically removed from the day-to-day operations of the company. Here are some steps remote employees can take to remain connected to the inner workings of their organization.

1. SCHEDULE MORE ONE-ON-ONE TIME Finding time on your calendar for you and your manager to connect might already be a mandatory part of your schedule. When you’re working remotely, however, it’s important to consider doing the same with other colleagues in your department/team who you’d like to sync with on a more personal level. It might not be a cup of a coffee, but a quick call will go a long way in ensuring you’re both on the same page.

2. USE VIDEO Employ similar tactics with colleagues than you already use in your personal life to keep in touch with friends and family. Whether it’s through FaceTime, Skype, or Google Hangouts, get in the habit of using more video in your interactions with your team. Even if it’s virtual, it’s far more effective than email.

3. KNOW YOUR COLLEAGUES No matter how big or small your company may be, it’s not a bad idea to get to know members beyond the confines of your team who may be visiting your city for either business or leisure. Ask if they can set aside time to meet up for coffee, lunch, or a drink so you can get to know each other better in person. You’ll be able to get a fuller picture of the company culture from employees beyond your immediate department.

Want to connect with beverage industry leaders? Tap into BevForce at www.bevforce.com or email [email protected] for more information.

38 / the tasting panel / october 2018

TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 38 10/1/18 6:29 PM TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 39 10/1/18 6:29 PM THE JOURNAL SOMM ®

Join us in San Diego for these SommCon seminars presented by The SOMM Journal and The Tasting Panel!

As a media sponsor for SommCon San Diego, we are proud to present the following seminars. Our Whiskey, eir Ratings Be sure to join us for one of the most interactive and exciting wine-industry events open to the trade! To register, visit sommconusa.com.

3–4:30 p.m. Wednesday, November 14 “Digging into Unique Terroir,” moderated by Michael Ploetz, F&B Director for Las Alcobas, St. Helena 94 90 93 TASTING L.A. INTL SPIRITS BLUE Taste through a global array of wines during this study on flavor, texture, and character as we seek to PANEL COMPETITION LIFESTYLE answer the age-old question, “How much of what’s in the glass is influenced by terroir?” PHOTO: REAGAN RULE 2–3:30 p.m. Thursday, November 15 “Franco-American Love: Bordeaux’s Long Arm of Influence in 19th-Century 90 93 California,” moderated by Michael Ploetz WINE ULTIMATE SPIRITS ENTHUSIAST CHALLENGE The SOMM Journal will lead a discussion on the history of Bordeaux varieties in California, beginning with the original incubator of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Sémillon: the historic Livermore Valley, where cuttings from top Bordeaux estates launched the fine-wine business in California. The lineage of those original cuttings has helped shape the viticultural landscape of the state and plant material from Château Margaux and Château d’Yquem. Michael Ploetz. During a lively tasting, we’ll explore wines from Murrieta’s Well in Livermore Valley; Brandlin from Mount Veeder; the Heritance Beckstoffer Georges III Cabernet from the Taub Family; a cuvée red from J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines in Paso Robles; the BV Georges de Latour 2015 Reserve Cab; and the Château Margaux. This will be a referential rather than a comparative tasting. PHOTO: MARGARET SOSS 11:15 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Friday, November 16 “Deconstructing Spirits,” moderated by Tasting Panel Vice President/Associate Publisher Rachel Burkons Producers of whiskey, tequila, mezcal, gin, and vodka will discuss ingredients and production techniques as we seek to understand the unique components present in a variety of spirits. Rachel Burkons.

Dancing Goat Distillery, Cambridge, WI Limousin Rye 46% ALC/VOL Please drink responsibly DancingGoat.com 40 / the tasting panel / october 2018

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Our Whiskey, eir Ratings 94 90 93 TASTING L.A. INTL SPIRITS BLUE PANEL COMPETITION LIFESTYLE 90 93 WINE ULTIMATE SPIRITS ENTHUSIAST CHALLENGE

Dancing Goat Distillery, Cambridge, WI Limousin Rye 46% ALC/VOL Please drink responsibly DancingGoat.com

TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 41 10/1/18 6:29 PM @drinkswithkimbeto A Rising Star

BOICH FAMILY CELLAR SELECTS ICONIC NAPA VALLEY SITES FOR ITS SINGLE-VINEYARD WINES

photos by Alexander Rubin

John Boich of Boich Family Cellar walks the vineyard with Kim Beto, Vice President of Key Accounts for Southern Glazer’s of Northern California. “I was in love with this land and loved the idea of creating something beautiful from these sites,” Boich says.

42 / the tasting panel / october 2018

TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 42 10/1/18 6:29 PM hen I tasted Boich Family Cellar wines at a recent lunch in San WFrancisco, I was convinced I absolutely had to know more. To do so firsthand, I traveled 7 miles up the Oakville Grade on the northeast tip of the Veeder AVA before arriving at a stunning estate with breathtak- ing views. Proprietor John Boich says it was this very view that inspired him to purchase the parcel 21 years ago: “After lunch and a bottle of wine at the old Tra Vigne restaurant, I ended up in a St. Helena realtor’s office for kicks and curios- ity, and the rest is history,” Boich explains. He admits even today it was a passion-driven impulse buy, but it changed the course of his life forever. While still holding down his finance job during the week, Boich committed Saturdays to work on the Veeder property; after eight years, the first vines were planted in 2009. The original site produces a mere 50 cases of Syrah, prompting Boich to purchase the adja- cent Wall Road Vineyard in 2012. This regional gem benefits from a saddle on the western side of the range that allows for both morning and afternoon sun, which is uncommon in the Mount Veeder AVA. No wonder the Tesseron family of Bordeaux’s Château Pontet-Canet recently became Boich’s neighbors! In 2010, Boich decided to begin assem- bling the pieces necessary for crafting a small quantity of single-vineyard wines. At the time he admired the highly acclaimed Cabernet Sauvignons from Schrader Cellars, so he hired the winery’s former Assistant Winemaker, Jeff Ames, as his Head Winemaker while also partnering with his longtime friend—and now co-propri- John Boich in his home kitchen in the Mount Veeder AVA. etor—Jnani Matson. Boich Family Cellars today produces 2,000 cases of wine from six single-vineyard sites. Its portfolio As we taste, I inquire about the driving force behind his incorporates fruit from Beckstoffer’s To Kalon, Georges III, passion for winemaking. “Wine to me always has a story to Missouri Hopper, and the Wall Road Vineyard Mount Veeder tell,” Boich replies. “From the moment you see it in the glass Estate, as well as a bit of Chardonnay from the esteemed to the finish in the back of your throat, the wine is speaking Ritchie Vineyard in the Russian River Valley. “Our brand to you about a time and a place. Wine connects people, and I promise is to craft single-vineyard wines from the most love the idea of contributing to that process.” iconic sites in the region,” Boich says. It’s obvious Boich loves to entertain: His house exudes While the portfolio feels complete, Boich and his team are an air of hospitality with its huge kitchen, pizza oven, and always on the lookout for single-vineyard candidates that enormous dining table. Musical instruments interspersed would make a good fit for their program. “If you combine the throughout the house prompt you to almost expect a private best fruit possible with a passionate, talented winemaker like concert at any moment. Jeff, you can make truly exceptional wines,” Boich notes. Next time, I’ll plan a longer stay so I can listen to Boich’s As we taste through the current releases, Boich tells stories and hear him play the piano. As for my contribution, me, “I don’t want to make a lot of wine, but I want to make I’ll volunteer to make the pizza. amazing wine.” He’s clearly on to something, as his bottlings display the elegance, balance, and power expected Follow Kim Beto on Instagram from these iconic sites. @sgwinespirits and @drinkswithkimbeto.

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TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 43 10/1/18 6:29 PM WHAT WE’RE DRINKING

Peakof Perfection ACUMEN’S HENRIK POULSEN IS “PALATE-ON” WHEN IT COMES TO CRAFTING HIS ESTATE WINES

by Meridith May

Henrik Poulsen, Executive Manager and Director of Winemaking for Acumen.

Acumen’s Attelas Vineyard in the Atlas Peak AVA.

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TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 44 10/1/18 6:29 PM Acumen 2017 Mountainside Sauvignon Blanc ($30) spends eight months in barrel (one-third stainless steel and two-thirds French oak). It’s an ethereal beauty that exudes aromas of vetiver and white grapefruit. The clean palate showcases precise acidity and tropical fruit. 92

Acumen 2014 Mountainside Red ($45) displays a set of tannins that work with, not against, the intensity of mountain fruit. It’s elegant with acidity so bright it lights up the glass. Luxardo cherries and chocolate are just some of the flavor notes present Peak in this complex blend. 93

Acumen 2014 Mountainside Cabernet Sauvignon ($60) is aged in 100% French oak for 18 months. Poulsen notes this as one of the best vintages of In an art gallery in downtown Napa, Acumen releases can be tasted with the decade in Napa Valley. “This small bites tailored to each wine as part of the Acumen Summit Experience. wine demonstrates the terroir of the estate,” he says. The aromas are meaty: Filet mignon comes to mind, but there are also floral threads with hints of dried n the mountain slopes of the coveted area known as Atlas Peak, Napa violets. As the tannins paint Valley’s high-elevation AVA, winemaker Henrik Poulsen is crafting estate the tongue, acidity divides it, Owines for the Acumen label. With 116 organically farmed acres of vines adding finesse to flavors of dark spread across two remote, rocky-soiled vineyards—Edcora and Attelas—this chocolate, espresso beans, and small but resonant winery is destined for world-class status. inky black fruit. “We coax the Poulsen, who worked alongside the late Denis Malbec to establish the wine’s estate for what it has to offer,” style, has a handle on the terroir above and beyond its mountainous location, Poulsen adds. 94 where elevations reach more than 1,200 feet above sea level. With a relatively cool climate and volcanic soils, the ripening potential remains great; the wines’ complex nature is apparent and their character defines excellence. We recently sat down to taste with Poulsen and Acumen Sales Director Gordon Waggoner at the winery’s downtown Napa tasting room, housed in a dramatically appointed art gallery. “I am not a winemaker by the numbers,” insisted the Danish-born Poulsen. “One can look at lab reports, but still you must ask, did that winemaking team really taste the fruit first? I am not necessarily hands-off, but I am definitely palate-on.” Acumen’s expressions of its mountain terroir include the small-production PEAK wines, produced from the best vineyard blocks and destined for long- term aging. For a broader appeal, Acumen’s Mountainside wines offer a higher production and, with the exception of the Sauvignon Blanc, are also 100 percent estate-driven. “Both our PEAK and Mountainside wines are rooted in the character of the growing season and the complexity of the Atlas Peak estate, but they show their roots in different ways and exhibit varying expressions of the Bordeaux varieties we grow,” Poulsen explains. “Our goal is to share the wines from this remarkable mountain with the world and for Acumen to become the standard-bearer for Atlas Peak.” Acumen Mountainside wines are fairly priced and work for upscale by-the- glass programs. For more information, visit acumenwine.com.

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TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 45 10/1/18 6:29 PM WHISKEY & SHINE FIND A JAR REDEFINED @ OleSmoky.com/getajar

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TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 46 10/1/18 6:29 PM WHISKEY & SHINE FIND A JAR REDEFINED @ OleSmoky.com/getajar

TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 47 10/1/18 6:29 PM DEPARTMENT HEADER WINERY SPOTLIGHT MCMANIS FAMILY VINEYARDS TAKES ITS SUSTAINABLE, ESTATE- The GROWN WINES NATIONWIDE Underdog Advantage story and photos by Randy Caparoso

he primary occupational focus for of premium grapes spanning from and choose the highest-quality lots at its most of the 14,000 or so citizens Clarksburg and Lodi to the River own discretion. “Every wine is treated Tof Ripon, California, is agricul- Junction AVA, yield 11 distinct offer- as if it’s going into a McManis wine, and ture—particularly almonds, which the ings with an average retail price of $11. decisions about what goes into our own locals charmingly call “am’ns.” Right “As stories about the American dream bottles are made afterward,” Justin says. behind nuts, however, are wine grapes, go, ours is probably of the underdog “Besides quality, the obvious advantage and one of the quiet forces behind this who had the audacity to open up a is we have been able to increase our industry is the McManis family. winery and expect to succeed in such a production precisely as much as the Now sold in every U.S. state, the competitive industry,” says fifth-gener- market can accept.” wines of McManis Family Vineyards ation grower Justin McManis (the son While McManis Family Vineyards’ still tend to sneak up on some consum- of founders Ron and Jamie McManis, portfolio is currently more than 90 ers: While the family has farmed in the he also serves as the business’ Vintner percent estate-grown, Justin says San Joaquin Valley since 1938, their & Supply Chain Coordinator). their goal is to reach 100 percent “as winery wasn’t founded until 1998 (its According to Mike Robustelli, [their] newest vineyards come online.” products officially entered the market McManis Family Vineyards’ All McManis Family properties are in 2001). While the winery’s produc- Winemaker since 1999, “only about a currently certified by the Lodi Rules tion capacity is substantial—about 7.8 seventh of the wine produced from [the for Sustainable Winegrowing, the million gallons, or roughly 3.2 million winery’s] vineyards goes into McManis area’s leading sustainable viticulture cases, per year—McManis Family label wines,” with the remainder “sold program, with additional certifications Vineyards currently just churns out to other wineries on the West Coast awarded by the California Sustainable more than 150,000 cases annually. and in other states.” Winegrowing Alliance (CSWA). The “secret” behind the McManis “This will remain the core of the fam- “Because we’re looking out for the family’s success is hardly concealed. ily’s business” in future years, Robustelli next generation—and for the seventh, Their impressive estate-grown says, with the advantage of this business the eighth, and the ninth—we started vineyards, which number 3,600 acres plan being that the company can pick getting our vineyards certified sus-

The McManis Family Sierra Loma Vineyard in Northern California.

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TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 48 10/1/18 6:29 PM A SAMPLING OF MCMANIS FAMILY VINEYARDS WINES

McManis Family Vineyards 2017 Pinot Grigio ($12) Fragrant flower and citrus notes with suggestions of honeyed pear; lemony-dry, pure, and light on the palate, it finishes with a lip-smacking stoniness. According to Winemaker Mike Robustelli, “future vintages will carry a River Junction appellation.” “Our 400-acre River Junction Vineyard is the only vineyard in River Junction [an AVA since 2001], which lies in a lower river bottom consisting of sandy loam. Temperatures are a good 5 degrees lower than surrounding areas,” he adds. The McManis family: Winemaker Justin McManis, Vintner & Supply Chain Coordinator; Stefanie McManis; Lincoln McManis Family Vineyards 2017 Estate Grown Pinot Noir McManis; Dirk Heuvel, Vineyard Manager; ($12) The exuberantly pure fruit style of this variety is Tanya McManis Heuvel, Office Administration; immediately apparent. Strawberry accompanies loamy and Kody McManis; Ron McManis, President and sweet tea–like undertones with a soft, round, supple, and co-owner; Jamie McManis, Vice President medium-bodied feel. “The industry says you can’t grow and co-owner; and Kaci McManis. Pinot Noir in Lodi, but the region’s Mediterranean climate says different,” Robustelli says. “It is also a culmination of the family’s viticultural standards, particularly in our Creekside Vineyard [a 250-acre Jahant-Lodi planting in tainable in 2013–2014,” Justin explains. “In gravelly-clay San Joaquin Series soil] and our Sierra Loma 2016, we earned the California Green Medal Vineyard in Borden Ranch AVA [650 acres on rolling hills of at the CSWA’s Sustainable Winegrowing rocky, red-clay Redding Series soil].” Leadership Awards.” In a related rebranding campaign, McManis Family Vineyards recently unveiled McManis Family Vineyards 2017 Jamie Lynn Vineyard Barbera a redesigned label that clearly designates ($12) This gives everything you’d want in a California-grown each wine as “Certified Sustainable.” A Barbera: It’s beautifully bright with a clear cherry/raspberry “Certified Green” Lodi Rules seal, meanwhile, perfume; zesty, medium-full body with piercing acidity; and appears on each back label. buoyant, fluid fruit unencumbered by excess oak or tannin. “By this time next year, just about all our Sourced from the family’s smallest vineyard (2 acres), it’s bottlings will carry one of the seven appella- available nationwide at a fantastic price. tions in which we farm: River Junction, Lodi, Borden Ranch-Lodi, Clements Hills-Lodi, Jahant-Lodi, Mokelumne River-Lodi, or McManis Family Vineyards 2017 Petite Sirah ($12) With a Clarksburg,” Justin says. “Our Barbera will vivid, opaque hue, this wine is unabashedly intense. On the continue to be California-appellated since it heels of a lush blueberry/boysenberry nose with smoky and comes from our Jamie Lynn Vineyard right in spicy nuances, a plethora of fruit gushes through the sturdy front of the winery here in Ripon,” which is yet well-rounded body. “Twenty percent of this wine is not part of an AVA. blended with Tannat and smaller portions of Teroldego and Alicante Bouschet,” Robustelli says. “It’s crafted for Petite Sirah lovers, but it’s also been a Best of Show finalist at the California State Fair and has made best-buy lists in national magazines every year since 2013.”

McManis Family Vineyards 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon ($12) Pretty aromas of raspberry and cassis with black-tea and cedar-box embellishments; fairly easy yet firmly dry, the medium-full body features loamy, earthy notes underlining the mid-palate. “Small amounts of Petit Verdot, Tannat, and Teroldego enhance this varietal,” Robustelli says. “Most of the fruit came from the family’s Liberty Vineyard [225 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon in Lodi’s rocky Borden Ranch AVA] as well as the Lone Oak Vineyard [320 acres in Lodi’s Clements Hills].”

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TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 49 10/1/18 6:30 PM COVER STORY RIOJA’S

NewfoundAFTER MOREEDGE THAN 150 YEARS OF PRODUCTION, BODEGAS FAUSTINO Defies Convention BY RANDY CAPAROSO

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TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 50 10/1/18 6:30 PM The Advantages of Faustino’s Longevity Grupo Faustino itself defies convention—at least by today’s standards. For starters, it hasn’t “gone corporate,” remaining owned and operated by descendants of Eleuterio

PHOTOS COURTESY OF BODEGAS FAUSTINO OF BODEGAS COURTESY PHOTOS Martínez Arzok, who founded Bodegas Faustino 157 years ago in 1861. Currently at the helm are Carmen and Lourdes Martínez Zabala, who represent the family’s fourth generation of ownership. Bodegas Faustino’s success and longevity have vaulted it to its proud status as the second-largest estate in the Rioja DOCa, with 4,015 acres mostly in Rioja’s Laguardia and Oyón areas. Despite the winery’s prestige, it ensures wines like the 2005 Faustino I Rioja Gran Reserva remain easily accessible. Faustino is Rioja’s leading exporter of Gran Reserva and Reserva reds, selling in 120 countries (in the U.S., it’s represented by Palm Bay International) and claiming nearly 40 percent of the category’s market share. As these wines proliferate across the globe, their terroir-related authenticity remains impeccable. Faustino’s Reserva and Gran Reservas are produced entirely from estate plantings in Rioja Alavesa, which, at elevations between 1,804–2,296 feet above sea level, is known for its lower- vigor and calcareous-clay soils, which impart higher acid levels.

ioja, the first of only two Spanish wine regions to attain Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa) status—the country’s highest quality level of appellation control— possesses an unconventional swagger despite being one of the world’s most traditionally defined regions. There is something radical, for instance, about the fact that the current vintage of producer Bodegas Faustino’s Faustino I Gran Reserva Rioja is a 2005. What wine region considers a 13-year- Rold wine to be finally “ready” for consumer consumption, yet also suitable for another ten to 20 years of cellaring? None other than Rioja, of course. Upon tasting the wine, however, one is starkly confronted with sensory qualities on par with other regions’ red wines that are five or even ten years younger: bright, youthful coloring; focused berry aromas with exotic tea-like complexity; and a solid, supple, tooth- some mouthfeel bolstered by serious, grippy tannins. The Faustino 2005 Gran Reserva is a slight deviation from traditional-style, ageworthy examples from old vines, which offer an elegance all their own with softer fruit and sweet vanilla aromas from extended time spent in American oak. This vintage instead represents a pure expression of the varieties in a fresh, vibrant style without becoming over-extracted or internationalized. It’s downright subversive, in this sense, that a wine can make such a success- Bodegas Faustino was founded in ful departure from a region’s past associations without sacrificing 1861 in Rioja Alavesa, Spain. one bit of its soul or distinction: It’s still suave and sexy “Rioja.”

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TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 51 10/1/18 6:30 PM COVER STORY

Talking Rioja with Rafael Martínez Palacios In 2013, Decanter magazine’s peerless panel of reviewers rated the 2001 Faustino I Gran Reserva its top wine of the year, giving it a rating equal to the 2010 Château Haut-Brion and 2010 Château Mouton Rothschild. Consequently, the current standard price of this vintage comes in at roughly $1,100 per bottle. Rafael Martínez Palacios has been the Chief Winemaker of Bodegas Faustino for The average retail price of Faustino’s more than 30 years. 2005 Gran Reserva, on the other hand? Between $35 and $38. When which affects yield and leads directly to What is the average vine age in your you consider the iconic parameters of higher-quality wines. The region also Rioja Alavesa vineyards, and how are this category—requiring a minimum has a continental climate influenced the vines trained and selected? of five years of aging, at least two of by the Atlantic; we have cold winters For the most part, our vineyards which must be spent in oak—plus and hot summers, yet temperatures are head-trained. We reserve gobelet Faustino’s additional time and crafts- are never extreme. These conditions [head] pruning for the older vines. manship, this makes the price tag are ideal for varieties like Tempranillo, Most of our estate vineyards date particularly increíble. as well as Graciano and Mazuelo [also back to the 1970s, but we do cultivate The Tasting Panel recently met with known as Carignan]. vines more than 50 years old. Vines Rafael Martínez Palacios, who has that are in poor condition or damaged served as Chief Winemaker of Bodegas Does Faustino use Graciano and are occasionally replaced. The older Faustino for more than 30 years. During Mazuelo in all of its red wines? vineyards consist of selections that our interview, he provided an insider’s The Faustino V Reserva is usu- have traditionally worked very well on perspective of the winery’s vineyards, ally about 92% Tempranillo and 8% these sites, and younger vineyards are oak regimes, and delineations of Mazuelo, and the Faustino I Gran planted with clones selected according Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva. Reserva normally has both Graciano to the winery’s needs. and Mazuelo blended with Tempranillo. The Tasting Panel: What are the We use Graciano in our finest wines Why is extended barrel-aging such an advantages of owning vineyards in because it contributes color and acidity, important tradition in Rioja? Rioja Alavesa? and to a lesser degree, it adds its Wines made from Tempranillo can Rafael Martínez Palacios: For one, own character to the blend. Mazuelo have a complex structure and therefore the chalky clay soils drain rainwater contributes acidity and, also to a lesser need longer time in barrels. It is always very well and have low organic quality, degree, flavor. a matter of seeking a balance between wine and barrel to achieve ideal refine- ment. The Gran Reserva is usually aged a little longer—at least 26 months—in the barrel than Reserva at 18 months and Crianza at 15.

Why has American oak been traditionally used in Rioja, and has there been a movement away from it in recent years? The advantage of American oak has always been its quick transfer of flavor and tannin, as well as its lower price. Our Gran Reserva is aged in both French and American oak; French oak is subtler with its aromatic properties and tannin, and this fits in Much like the facilities they’re produced in, Bodegas Faustino’s wines blend perfectly with Gran Reserva wines, tradition with an unconventional swagger. adding to their complexity in terms of

52 / the tasting panel / october 2018

TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 52 10/1/18 6:30 PM wines. American oak based upon grapes/plots sampling. gives these wines the We might also select wines after they intensity we are looking are made. Our best wines receive a for with less complexity 20-day post-fermentation maceration; than what you find in the the process helps bring out additional Gran Reserva. phenolic matter, conferring more color and flavor suitable for subsequent When and how often do barrel-aging. For the Gran Reserva you choose wines for reds, the Tempranillo, Graciano, and Gran Reserva? Mazuelo wines are usually blended We usually produce before going into barrel, although Gran Reserva five to in some vintages blends are mixed seven out of every ten together during barrel-aging. Bodegas Faustino is the second-largest estate in the years, depending upon Rioja DOCa, with 4,015 acres in Rioja’s Laguardia and vintage qualifications Is the cloudy-looking opaque glass used Oyón areas. set by the Rioja Control for Faustino’s Gran Reserva bottles Board. There are some utilized by other producers in Rioja? structure and flavor. The Faustino V vineyards, particularly the oldest, that Our bottle, which helps protect the Reserva as well as our Rioja Crianza are often picked for Gran Reserva wine from light, is unique in the world are aged only in American white oak, wines, but we also make our Gran of wines. Faustino is the only winery since barrel-aging is shorter for these Reserva selections before each harvest that uses it.

Additional Bodegas Tasting Notes: Current Bodegas Faustino Wines Faustino Releases Faustino 2008 Barrel Select Gran Reserva Rioja ($42) A 75th anniversary edition consisting of 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, and 5% Mazuelo; produced from 400 barrels and available in the U.S. to select on-premise accounts.

Faustino Gran Reserva Rioja Library Selection Available in the 1964, Faustino VII 2016 Faustino VII 2017 Faustino VII 2015 Faustino 2014 Faustino V 2013 1970, 1986, 1987, Rioja White Viura Rioja Tempranillo Rioja Tempranillo Rioja Crianza Rioja Reserva 1990, 1991, 1992, ($10) Intensely Rosé ($10) ($10) Forward, ($13) Aged ($18) A whole and 1995, as well as fragrant and fresh Brick-tinged pink sweet-toned, 15 months in lotta bang for a limited inventory of with a nose of with strawberry red-berry nose American white the buck; bright, the acclaimed 2001 vintage. Faustino pure tropical fruit perfume; with vanillin-oak oak until it’s trans- red-fruited maintains the largest and melon; airy, medium-bodied, embellishments; ferred into French Tempranillo library of Rioja Gran light-medium bone dry, zesty, bright and oak for another perfume with Reserva vintages in the body; silky, and crisply zippy with acid; six months; deftly-etched industry. taut, and tart balanced with medium-full in plummy, pungent, vanilla and a with beautifully persistent berry- body, feel, and fruit-forward minty American- Faustino I 2005 Gran integrated acid, tinged freshness. overall intensity. cherry nose; well- oak veneer. The Reserva ($35-$38): A finishing with an rounded medium fine-grained and blend of Tempranillo, edgy dryness. body, yet meaty, exuberant red- Graciano, and Mazuelo dense, and thickly berry qualities aged for 26 months in textured with fill a medium- French and American zippy acid and weight body oak barrels, followed oak-enriched revved up by by three years in bottle sensations. laudable acidity. before release.

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TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 53 10/1/18 6:30 PM Anthony Dias BLUE REVIEWS

Presented by

In each issue, Editor-in-Chief Anthony Dias Blue selects a wide range of the best wines and spirits from among the more than 500 he samples over DOMESTIC the course of a month. The reviews are subjective editorial evaluations, made without regard to advertising, J. McClelland and products are scored on a 90Cellars 2014 100-point scale: Merlot, Napa Valley ($35) Smooth, velvety, and lush with notes of earth 85-89: VERY GOOD and spice; tangy acidity and good balance; a long 90-94: OUTSTANDING and fresh release from the 95-100: CLASSIC Scotto family.

Once products are selected for Flora Springs publication, producers and importers 922015 Merlot, Napa Valley will be offered the option of having ($30) Deep ruby color; tangy with fine their review accompanied by an structure and balance; aged 19 months image (bottle photo or label art) for in a mix of new and seasoned oak a nominal fee. There is no obligation barrels. If you’re down on Merlot, this to add an image, nor does the one could change your mind. decision affect the review or score in any way. Pellet Estate The “twisty” icon indicates wines 942014 Cabernet sealed with a screwcap closure. Sauvignon, St. Helena ($95) Rich For additional Blue Reviews, go to crimson hue; lush and www.bluelifestyle.com. sumptuous texture with spice and bright plum. Prices are for 750 ml. bottles unless A lovely example of otherwise noted. an exceptionally pure Cabernet, it’s balanced and Moss Roxx Vineyards deep with some minerality, 922015 Ancient Vine as well as subtle toasty Reserve Zinfandel, Lodi ($26) oak notes. Rich, long, and A penetratingly spicy nose precedes a stunning. creamy mouthfeel; ripe with notes of chocolate and plum. Fresh, succulent, and balanced with lovely depth and intensity.

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TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 54 10/1/18 6:30 PM Black Kite Cellars 2016 VALUE Bodegas 94Gap’s Crown Vineyard 91Muriel Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($60) 2013 Fincas Rich cherry nose and smooth, velvety Tenuta di Salviano 2017 de la Villa texture with concentrated notes of 90Orvieto Classico Superiore Tempranillo berry fruit. Juicy, intense, and long, it’s a DOCG, Italy ($20) Juicy and rich with Reserva, Rioja standout from a vineyard located at the slight minerality; ripe, racy, and lush. It’s DOC, Spain base of Sonoma Mountain. good to see a quality wine from this ($20) Invigorating underrepresented appellation. 60% and creamy yet Trebbiano Toscano, 15% Grechetto, 10% zesty; rich and Résonance 2015 Pinot Verdello, and 15% Sauvignon Blanc. complex with 94Noir, Yamhill-Carlton ($70) KOBRAND WINE AND SPIRITS spice, a silky texture, and a lengthy finish. Luscious and refreshing, this tangy, QUINTESSENTIAL WINES satisfying, and balanced wine possesses an elegant and opulent style. It’s quite Masi Burgundian, which is unsurprising 91Agricola 2015 Viña Eguía 2014 Reserva considering winemaking is overseen by Campofiorin Rosso 90Tempranillo, Rioja DOC, famed Jadot veteran Jacques Lardière. del Veronese IGT, Italy Spain ($19) Bright and smooth with KOBRAND WINE AND SPIRITS ($20) Earth and spice on abundant, crisp black raspberry; a tangy, the nose; a smooth and fresh, and long expression of this variety, fresh blend of Corvina, which the winery describes as the Rondinella, and Molinara “undisputed queen of the Rioja Alavesa.” IMPORTED with flavorful black- FINE ESTATES FROM SPAIN raspberry notes. Enduring and rich, it’s a mainstay from Frankland Estate 2015 a proven Veneto star. Spoken Barrel 92Shiraz, Frankland River, KOBRAND WINE AND SPIRITS 922015 Meritage Australia ($40) Super-smooth, rich, and Red Blend, Columbia bright; spicy, dense, and long. This appellation Valley ($20) Intense is known to produce refined, classic Shiraz, Alta Vista 2016 Estate ruby hue with a rich nose and this bottling confirms it. 91Malbec, Mendoza, dominated by plum; a lush, QUINTESSENTIAL WINES Argentina ($20) Smooth and nuanced, Malbec-dominant concentrated with bright cherry notes; blend of four Bordeaux tangy, fresh, and long with intense flavors varieties. It’s full-bodied, Taylor Fladgate 2016 and great balance from experienced spicy, and polished while 97 Vintage Port, Douro, winemaker Didier Debono. possessing the depth of Portugal ($120) Dark and polished; KOBRAND WINE AND SPIRITS wines ten times the price. mildly sweet with spicy, suave flavor; CONSTELLATION BRANDS elegant, balanced, and built to last; a remarkable release, as to be expected Tenuta di Salviano 2015 from this house. 92Turlo Lago di Corbara Blazon 2017 Chardonnay, KOBRAND WINE AND SPIRITS DOC, Italy ($20) Rich, spicy, and deep 90California ($18) Bright, golden with ripe plum and cherry; a blend of color; creamy and luscious with juicy flair Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and and subtle elements of toasty oak and Or Haganuz Winery 2016 Merlot, it’s a lovely Folonari-like take on vanilla. Rich and dense, it’s surprisingly 91Marom Series Merlot, an obscure appellation. complex for such a reasonably priced Galilee, Israel ($30) Lush, spicy, and KOBRAND WINE AND SPIRITS wine. dry with balance and heft; juicy and fresh with a lengthy finish. A kosher wine from a boutique-inspired winery founded in Steele Rutherford 2005. 92Wines 91 Ranch 2015 ROYAL WINE CORP. 2015 Shooting Chardonnay, Napa Star Zinfandel, Valley ($25) Complex, Mendocino dense, bright, and crisp Campo alle Comete 2015 ($20) Silky and with vanilla and new 92Bolgheri Superiore DOC, richly fruity; oak; silky and racy with Italy ($57) Smooth, plum-tinged nose; toasty and juicy with enduring threads depth, balance, and sumptuous and complex with a tangy, of blackberry. Overseeing this hand- creamy texture. Aged generous, and rich approach. Graceful, harvested release, Jed Steele is really a sur lie in stainless steel balanced, and long, this represents a new Zin master. and French oak. voice emerging from Bolgheri. VIAS IMPORTS LTD.

october 2018 / the tasting panel / 55

TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 55 10/1/18 6:30 PM EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR: Anthony Dias Blue, Editor-in-Chief of The Tasting Panel Magazine and The SOMM Journal Old Soul Vineyards 2016 Meiomi 2017 Woodinville Whiskey Co. 89Cabernet Sauvignon, 92Pinot Noir, 93Straight Bourbon Whiskey, California ($15) Ripe, satisfying, and California ($25) Soft USA ($55) Made in Washington State, juicy with abundant berry flavors; bright berry nose; spicy, rich, and this release is silky and bright with lovely and balanced with immediate charm. long. A crisp, clean blend notes of vanilla and lightly toasted oak. A delightful weeknight wine with from three important Fresh, racy, and clean with hints of dried generous style, this release impresses in appellations (Monterey, fruit and light spice preceding a long and terms of value. Santa Barbara, and generous finish. Sonoma), each of which MOËT HENNESSY USA imparts a special character. Lodi Estates 2016 Cabernet Aged six months in 100% 91Sauvignon, Lodi ($24) In French oak. The Macallan Limited CONSTELLATION BRANDS Edition No. 4 Highland the wake of the soft nose, plum notes 95 November 17–19, 2018 n Hotel Nikko, San Francisco precede the silky texture with subtle Single Malt Scotch Whisky, herbs. Clean, fresh, and long, this shows a Scotland ($100) Rich, seamless, restrained, elegant style featuring toasty La Playa Estate 2018 and deep with soft spice, dried fruit, oak and soft spice. 88Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé, toasted oak, and vanilla-caramel. A big AMERICA’S LARGEST AND MOST INFLUENTIAL Colchagua Valley, Chile ($8) Gentle winner with no age statement from this strawberry nose; dry and refreshing superstar distillery. INTERNATIONAL WINE COMPETITION Steele Wines 2015 Persona with a racy style. Bright, tangy acidity 91Non Grata, Lake County encompasses the experience. ($16) Smooth and luscious with Dubonnet Rouge Grand balanced notes of berry fruit. Ripe, tangy, 90Apéritif de France, USA and long, this is Jed Steele’s grab-bag Craggy Range 2017 Pinot ($18) The last time I tasted this product blend of 66% Zinfandel, 22% Syrah, 10% 90Noir, Martinborough, New was ten years ago, when I rated it 66 Tempranillo, and 2% Merlot. Zealand ($25) Silky and fresh with on the 100-point scale. This smooth and cherry and savory notes; a smooth and sweet version is loads better, with rich long release from this superstar North berry fruit and clean, lush flavors of ripe Duca di Salaparuta Island winery. cherries with hints of nuts and chocolate. 902017 Kados Grillo, Terre KOBRAND WINE AND SPIRITS Try it on the rocks. Siciliane IGT, Italy ($18) A silky and exceptionally complex white from a company launched in 1824 and revived Franz Keller 2017 Pinot James Buchanan & Co. by the people who make Disaronno. Rich 90Gris Schwarzer Adler, 93Buchanan’s Select Aged and tangy with citrus and peach, this long Baden, Germany ($25) Juicy, dry, 15 Years Blended Malt Scotch and lovely wine features commendable and crisp with racy acidity and piercing Whisky, Scotland ($60) Mellow balance and style. minerality; fresh and balanced. nose; effortless and elegant with carefully 2018 CALL FOR ENTRIES SCHMITT SÖHNE WINES balanced flavors that range from toasty and intense to soft and lush. Charming, Sokol Blosser Winery 2017 polished, and long, it’s a lovely blend that DEADLINE: FRIDAY, OCTOBER 26 90Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir, brings many elements to a glass. Dundee Hills, Oregon ($25) Tangy, SPIRITS DIAGEO juicy, and dry with strawberry overtones; a fresh and long winner from this pioneer Oregon winery. Surf City Still Works Dry Fly Distilling Straight 91Shorebreak Vodka, USA 91Washington Wheat Whiskey ($28) Smooth and creamy with a hint Aged 3 Years, USA ($40) Rich amber True Myth 2016 of vanilla; round and balanced; produced color with a deep, dense nose. The 91Chardonnay, Edna Valley from organic corn in California at the first creamy texture reveals toasty, ripe grain ($18) Bright pear nose; refreshing, lively, distillery to operate in Huntington Beach. and spice. Gentle and easygoing with a and crisp with tangy acidity and a racy SURF CITY STILL WORKS bite on the finish, this expression is made finish. Lush and intense, this is a well- in Spokane, Washington. FOR MORE INFORMATION, E-MAIL [email protected] OR CALL (415) 345-9000 balanced wine with remarkable value, especially given its complexity. Suerte Blanco Tequila, 92Mexico ($30) Appealingly Virginia Distillery Co. Cider earthy agave nose; toasty, intense, and 93Cask Finished Virginia- smoky; rich, smooth, and spicy with lots Highland Whiskey, USA ($58) of character and solid length. This took Nose is heavy with spice and oak; long home a Gold Medal at the 2015 San and bright with an elegant and carefully @SFINTLWINECOMP / #SFIWC ENTER ONLINE OR DOWNLOAD ENTRY FORMS AT: Francisco World Spirits Competition. balanced style; an instant classic made in COLORADO SPIRITS IMPORTERS LLC Virginia. Follow us on social media for spirits industry news, VIRGINIA DISTILLERY CO. market insights, and Competition updates www.sfwinecomp.com

56 / the tasting panel / october 2018

W18-FullPage-TPM-SOMM.indd 1 8/16/18 8:23 AM

TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 56 10/1/18 6:30 PM EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR: Anthony Dias Blue, Editor-in-Chief of The Tasting Panel Magazine and The SOMM Journal

November 17–19, 2018 n Hotel Nikko, San Francisco

AMERICA’S LARGEST AND MOST INFLUENTIAL INTERNATIONAL WINE COMPETITION

2018 CALL FOR ENTRIES DEADLINE: FRIDAY, OCTOBER 26

FOR MORE INFORMATION, E-MAIL [email protected] OR CALL (415) 345-9000

@SFINTLWINECOMP / #SFIWC ENTER ONLINE OR DOWNLOAD ENTRY FORMS AT:

W18-FullPage-TPM-SOMM.indd 1 8/16/18 8:23 AM

TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 57 10/1/18 6:30 PM In each issue, The Tasting Panel’s Publisher and Editorial Director Meridith May selects her favorite wines and spirits of the month. Check here for the latest arrivals in our offices, the hottest new brands on the market, and an occasional revisited classic. Publisher’s PICKS WINES

Levendi 2015 Sweetwater Dutton Estate Winery 2016 Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Karmen Isabella Dutton PHOTO: ALEXANDER RUBIN PHOTO: Napa Valley ($70) Grown on Ranch Pinot Noir, Russian rocky red soils in Yountville’s Mill River Valley, Sonoma County Race Vineyard, this savory red is ($46) Although Dutton farms concentrated and well-structured. more than 80 sites, three—Thomas Aromas of mountain brush and Road, Green Valley, and Manzana mocha are broad and inviting. Vineyard—are specially selected Satin-textured with grainy, round for this eloquent red (they’re tannins, it shows seasoned notes of all certified Sonoma County tarragon, chervil, sage, and sassafras Sustainable with Fish Friendly that hit mid-palate. Penetrating hints of deep Farming designations). Scents of earth, jasmine, plum liqueur and mulberry go big on the and black cherry lead to flavors of tangerine peel, creamy finish. 96 cedar, and cinnamon. Dark chocolate melds with firm tannins for a sensational mouthfeel; there’s brooding here, but it doesn’t make us pout. 93

Buena Vista Winery Chateau Buena Vista 2015 Cabernet + Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($50) Duckhorn Vineyards 2014 Earthy-cherry aromas linger in The Discussion Red Wine, this elegant, restrained red. Great Napa Valley ($140) Aromas of acidity integrates with cranberry rhubarb and Italian roast coffee add Worthy of a smooch. and sandalwood while red fruits to a glossy palate of cinnamon and abound. The finish sweetens the nutmeg. With a plethora of plushy French-style double bizou. palate with a hint of maple but tannins, this is a textural delight. Its keeps things dry with violet petals. abundant flavors would exceed the The luxurious mouthfeel can be word limit of this review, but dark Wildly infatuated. attributed to 28 months of aging in French chocolate, plum, licorice, violet, and oak. 96 blueberry compote are the deep Seriously smitten. BOISSET COLLECTION and generous starting lineup. 97

Head over heels in love.

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TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 58 10/1/18 6:30 PM Ménage à Trois 2016 Lavish Provenance Vineyards 2016 Goldschmidt Vineyard Merlot, California ($14) Chardonnay, Carneros, 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, This wine exudes ripeness as Napa Valley ($35) The first Yoeman Vineyard, its savory notes of bittersweet Chardonnay from Provenance, Alexander Valley ($75) chocolate melt across the palate. this is sourced from outstanding White chocolate and deep plum This is a “Merlot with more,” sites like the Sangiacomo and make for lovely aromatics in this as it combines 8% Cabernet Winery Lake vineyards, among sensationally juicy red. Plush and Sauvignon, 6% Petite Sirah, and others, in the cool Carneros AVA. round, mocha tannins show a 5% Petit Verdot for layers of Barrel-aged in French oak for a flowing grace. Dark cherry, tree violets and additional chocolate. year, this weighted white lends bark, and coffee bean lead boldly Heady notes of vanilla and an elegant mouthfeel thanks to through the duration of the mocha, meanwhile, wind their way around aging on the lees. Aromas of lemon curd and tasting experience. 94 mouth-filling plum and blueberry. 92 white peach are instantly attractive and alluring. TRINCHERO FAMILY ESTATES The combination of minerality and toasted oak is well-integrated, forming a duality with a + crème-brûlée effect and bright acidity. It’s a job Domaine Zind-Humbrecht well done. 93 2016 Riesling, Rangen de Ménage à Trois Sparkling TREASURY WINE ESTATES Thann, Clos St. Urbain Rosé, Italy ($15) With Grand Cru, Alsace, France its pearlescent hue, liltingly ($120) This charming white soft bubbles, and perfume of “waxes poetic” on the nose: cranberry and red flowers, this LVE 2017 Côtes de Provence Beeswax and peach establish a sparkler may speak Italian, but Rosé, France ($25) This beautiful start for a super sipper. it translates perfectly to the wine is part of the LVE collec- High-wire acidity spells r-a-c-y American palate. Confident notes tion, produced in partnership with pears and orange blossom. of candied cherries and water- with award-winning musician Minerality dives in and stays melon burst the bubbles for a John Legend. It comprises there, salted and tightly wrapped lengthy mid-palate that introduces 60% Grenache, 25% Cinsault, around almond and lemon rind. 98 a touch of sweetness. 91 and 15% Syrah grown in the KOBRAND WINE AND SPIRITS TRINCHERO FAMILY ESTATES Montagne Sainte-Victoire region of Provence on stony, limestone- based soils. Delicate aromas of watermelon, rose petal, and fig entice as Kangarilla Road 2016 The JCB by Jean-Charles Boisset stunning flavors of strawberry and nectarine Devil’s Whiskers Shiraz, No. 69 Brut, Crémant de emerge on a mineral-slate path, paving the way McLaren Vale, Australia Bourgogne, France ($25) A for a crisp, clean finish. 93 ($40) Take in the floral scent Pinot Noir–based rosé made BOISSET COLLECTION infused with dark plum before in the saignée method, No. 69 diving into a wash of blue and was inspired by the year of red berries, dense and satiny, Jean-Charles Boisset’s birth. Like with a hint of graphite and black Boisset himself, it’s as earthy as it Chronology 2015 Red Wine, violets. A thin thread of white is ethereal, with assertive bubbles California ($25) Combining pepper, soy sauce, and dark arising in a mist of liveliness. Crisp Bordeaux and Rhône varieties, chocolate keeps it savory, while with notes of dried mandarin this inspirational red is a blend of sweet citrus keeps it perky. 92 orange, bittersweet cocoa, and ripe cherry, this 28% Petite Sirah, 24% Grenache, M IMPORTS, LLC sparkler sings. 93 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% BOISSET COLLECTION Malbec, 5% Cab Franc, 5% Merlot, 5% Angelica, 3% Syrah, American Vintage 2015 Red, and 2% Mourvèdre. Deep, inky California ($35) All-American carmine in color, it offers up varieties Zinfandel (65%) and Marqués de Cáceres 2014 scents of red tea, roses, and mul- Petite Sirah (35%) make for a Reserva, Rioja DOC, Spain berry. Red fruit and flowers on a bed of tilled deep, dark, and indulgent red. ($31) This bottling is only soil create a sensual mouthfeel, while notes of Black plum, graphite, and mocha- produced in the finest vintages cinnamon, black currant, and mocha add even cedar are deliriously fragrant. On from old vines. Earth, cedar, and more richness. Aged 21 months (stainless steel the palate, ripeness reigns, with black tea are deep and shadowy and barrel). 92 blackberry and strawberry coating on the nose, while high acidity BOISSET COLLECTION a heathery brush. Approachable dries the palate with wisps of with round tannins, the finish goes slate and desiccated rose petals. into cherry-liqueur mode with a It’s regal with tremendous energy juicy, sweet finish. 92 and a sense of gravitas. 93 BOISSET COLLECTION VINEYARD BRANDS

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TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 59 10/1/18 6:30 PM Publisher’s PICKS

David Bruce 2016 Pinot Dozen Roses Wine 2017 Familia Camarena Silver Noir, Russian River Valley, Rosé of Tempranillo, La Tequila, Mexico ($22) Sonoma County ($50) Mancha, Spain ($15) A Considering both price point and With more than 50 years of perfume of rose petals, cran- the complexity that ensues in this history, David Bruce has become berry, and raspberry makes for a spirit, we’re duly impressed. On an iconic name when it comes charming entry. Tempranillo goes the nose, heather and lilac marry to Pinot Noir. Grapes from the floral on the palate, expressing into a bouquet of clean agave winery’s Russian River Valley secondary flavors of cinnamon, and tangerine with a veil of vanilla estate are used for this spicy, roses, and rhubarb. Made to be bean. Black pepper anchors a elegant red, with cherry and semi-sweet but not cloying, this is smooth, buoyant texture as dried plum notes well-defined in a a good starter wine, but it’s also flower petals, lime, pink grapefruit, silky body. Cinnamon and orange peel extend a bright addition into the rosé category that and scented boysenberry weave through high from middle to end with an underscore of promotes this Spanish grape. 90 tones of agave. The finish is clean with a spot of espresso bean. 94 minerality: almost like tasting a raindrop. 94 TERLATO WINES

Stave & Steel 2016 Bourbon + Barrel–Aged Cabernet Familia Camarena Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Sauvignon, California ($21) Reposado Tequila, Mexico 2016 Clos Windsbuhl Pinot This 100% Cab is aged four ($22) This exudes a sumptuous Gris, Alsace, France ($80) months in charred Kentucky nose of brown sugar, cooked This wine is deeply plush and bourbon barrels. On the nose, agave, and cedar-washed orange texturally unique with aromas notes of caramel and toasted peel. Silky, delicate notes of and flavors of jasmine and oak meld with blackberries and peppermint and spiced coffee honeysuckle. Lanolin and key spiced figs. Black cherries zing on consort with a progression of lime come in mid-palate for a the palate alongside cinnamon- mid-palate flavors as mocha and continuously weighty, creamy kissed coffee bean before new peach tones expand, embold- feel. Pear and kiwi keep it tasting leather and vanilla lengthen the ened and lustrous, toward the fresh with exuberant acidity. 97 finish, urging on spiced orange peel and toffee. finish. 94 KOBRAND WINE AND SPIRITS The result is reminiscent of bourbon’s fine character. 90

JAJA Blanco Tequila, M·A·N Family Wines 2017 Mexico ($40) Scented like Free-Run Steen Chenin SPIRITS an herb garden with a touch Blanc, South Africa ($12) of Himalayan salt and lime, this The M·A·N Family Wines small-production (100% agave branding speaks to a family busi- azul), non-aged tequila has a ness two brothers started with La Pivón Vermouth Rojo, zippy taste profile. The salinity a friend and named it after their Spain ($29) From the only lingers amidst just-ripe agave wives: Marie, Anette, and Nicky. vermouth producer in Madrid and vanilla bean on the path to a (“Steen” is the traditional South and made with Airén and Malvar focused finish. 93 African term for Chenin Blanc.) grapes, this expression contains SHAW-ROSS INTERNATIONAL The free-run juice is used—that herbs and botanicals macerated IMPORTERS, INC. is, no pressing of grapes—to in oak barrels with oranges from preserve a clean, natural character. Refreshing Valencia. Aromas of plum, cher- and crisp, it’s a great value with Asian pear and rywood, dried figs, and coffee are white floral tones. 89 expressive. Cinnamon-coated VINEYARD BRANDS orange peel washes the tongue before it warmly and seductively morphs into rose petals, sassafras, and clove. 94 3 BADGE MIXOLOGY

60 / the tasting panel / october 2018

TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 60 10/1/18 6:30 PM TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 61 10/1/18 6:30 PM BLIND TASTINGS BY A NOSE THE GAME OF WINES BLIND TASTING AT THE SOCIETY OF WINE EDUCATORS CONFERENCE PROVES AN ENTERTAINING CHALLENGE FOR SOMMELIERS

BY CLIFF RAMES / PHOTOS BY PAUL VAN HOY

The Game of Wines presenters from left to right: Cliff Rames, Contributing Editor for The Tasting Panel; Ioana Benga, Export Manager for Jidvei; Kristina Sazama, Wine Educator for Santa Margherita USA; Agustina Brizuela, Wine Ambassador for Trapiche; and Gabriel Geller, Director of Public Relations and Wine Education for Royal Wine Corp. Not pictured is Gina Grilli, Account Sales Manager for Delegat USA.

62 / the tasting panel / october 2018

TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 62 10/1/18 6:30 PM WINE #1: CLAI 2015 SV. JAKOV MALVASIA, ISTRIA, CROATIA ($34)

Presented by Cliff Rames, Contributing Editor for The Tasting Panel/The SOMM Journal and founder of Wines of Croatia

When Giorgio Clai greets guests at his eponymous winery, the twinkle in his eye seems to indicate he’s on the verge of revealing a long-held secret. Once he leads visitors to his 8 hectares of estate vineyards in the Istria region of Croatia, however, the twinkle becomes a sparkle. His The Game of Wines attendees had 15 hands dance as he expounds—in Italian-accented Croatian—the nuances minutes to blind-taste and correctly of Istrian soil types, the philosophies of Biodynamic farming, and the identify the participating wines by their history and merits of native grape varieties like Malvasia Istriana and grape varieties and their places of origin. Refosco. All of these elements enable him to showcase the Istrian terroir in his wines, many of which enjoy cult status in Croatia. Within minutes of meeting Clai, you understand why fans and fellow winemakers refer to him as the “Godfather of Istria,” as he expresses these As millions of ardent fans already know, winemaking principles with an affection and sense of wonder some peers “More wine!” is a command routinely reserve solely for grandchildren, uttered by Lord Tyrion Lannister in the sports cars, or yachts. hit HBO series Game of Thrones. But “Wine is made in the vineyard, despite his brilliantly scheming mind not in the cellar,” Clai is fond of and penchant for gulping goblets with saying. Indeed, he and his estate nary a breath, Tyrion would be no match manager, Dimitri Brec˘evic´, abide by for the army of talented industry profes- a minimal-intervention approach at sionals assembled at the Society of Wine all stages: dry-farmed and organi- Educators annual conference in New cally grown grapes; spontaneous York’s Finger Lakes region. fermentation with native yeasts; With their noses and palates sharpened, long skin macerations in ancient these warriors of wine gathered at the wooden vats; and minimal sulfur. August event to face off in the Game of Despite this, Clai would be the Wines, a competitive tasting sponsored first to scoff at any reference to by The Tasting Panel and its sister publica- “natural wine” in descriptions tion The SOMM Journal. The mission? To of his style, preferring the term blind-taste six wines in 15 minutes and “traditional wine.” Either way, Clai jostle with challenging nuances of aroma, wines are not designed as mere flavor, texture, and aftertaste. Victory— quaffers; instead, they’re meditative, and, of course, spoils in the form of cash conducive to fanciful musing and prizes—would be claimed by the three philosophical pondering. contestants who most correctly identified The fact that no one at the Game the grape varieties from which the wines of Wines event correctly identified the Clai 2015 Sv. Jakov Malvasia was were produced, as well as wines’ respec- unsurprising. Featuring 100 percent Malvazija Istarska (Malvasia Istriana), tive places of origin. the wine was produced from a 42-year-old single vineyard of white The selected bottlings were an eclectic limestone and marine fossil soils located 700 feet above sea level on the mix of libations from locations near and northern Istrian peninsula, just 6 miles from the sparkling Adriatic Sea. far: some familiar, some more obscure. “A Harvested on September 15, the grapes were destemmed, crushed, couple of those wines weren’t curveballs, and gravity-fed with their skins into large wooden vats, where macera- they were knuckleballs,” one participant tion lasted nearly three months. After both primary and malolactic observed with a chuckle. Despite the fermentation were completed, the wine was gently pressed off the skins fierce competition, the event presented a and matured in old 1,000- to 2,500-liter oak botte vessels. The result was coveted opportunity for the contestants a golden, almost-orange wine that exudes Cognac-like notes of orange to test their blind-tasting methodologies, marmalade, dried peach and mango, acacia flower, Mediterranean herbs, think outside the box, and discover a few and a hint of hazelnut. wines they may have otherwise missed or Broad-shouldered yet nimble, the mouthfeel was oily and balanced overlooked. with zippy acidity and fine-grained tannins. A flourish of flavors (bran- With that, here is a rundown of the died peach, dried fig, hay, and crushed sea salt) concluded the experience Game of Wines challengers. Let the games with flourish and grace. begin—and may the best palate win! Imported by Zev Rovine Selections.

october 2018 / the tasting panel / 63

TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 63 10/1/18 6:31 PM BLIND TASTINGS

WINE #2: JIDVEI 2016 MUSCAT OTTONEL, TARNAVE-JIDVEI DOC, TRANSYLVANIA, ROMANIA ($8)

Presented by Ioana Benga, Export Manager for Jidvei

While several contestants correctly identified Muscat as the grape variety, no one dared to imagine the second wine in the blind flight could hail from Romania. “I knew it would be very challenging to identify Romania—and especially Transylvania— as the region of origin,” said Jidvei Export Manager Ioana Benga, adding that she instead focused on the grape variety to “offer a wine that represents our terroir without being obvious—one that would perhaps intrigue the participants and compel them to discover more about Jidvei.” One of the oldest and most important wine regions in Romania, the Tarnave-Jidvei DOC straddles the Transylvania plateau. It’s surrounded by the sprawling Carpathian mountain range, with the Jidvei commune—the winery’s namesake—at its core. Jidvei owns approximately 2,500 hectares under cultivation in the DOC, largely planted to aromatic white varieties like Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat Ottonel, Gewürztraminer, and the native Feteasca˘ Regala˘ and Feteasca˘ Alba˘. Vine-growing in the area dates back to the Iron Age and was reportedly first mentioned by Greek historian Herodotus in the fifth century B.C. Situated 1,000 feet above sea level, the DOC’s altitude provides cool-climate growing conditions moderated by the nearby Târnava Mare and Târnava Mica˘ rivers. As a result, its white wines are typically fruity and light- to medium-bodied with excellent freshness and food-pairing prowess. On the nose, the Jidvei 2016 Muscat Ottonel boasted lovely notes of honeysuckle, linden flower, melon, and fresh apricot. While technically medium-dry with 5.65 grams per liter of residual sugar, this well-balanced Muscat displayed a juicy, bright, and slightly creamy mouthfeel that yielded refreshing flavors of cold green table grapes, orchard fruits, and musky flowers; the finish, meanwhile, featured an enchanting and palate-stimulating bitter-almond note. Best suited to serve as an apéritif, this Transylvanian tippler pairs well with melon and prosciutto, spicy Asian vegetable dishes, or steamed white fish with mango salsa. Benga somewhat apologetically remarked that while the Muscat may not be Jidvei’s most interesting wine, as it’s a quite straightforward variety, she felt it important to choose a gateway bottling that would be perhaps more recognizable to the tasters—“unlike that crazy Croatian wine,” she quipped to laughs from the audience.

Imported by Albus Imports, LLC.

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TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 64 10/1/18 6:31 PM WINE #3: CANTINA MESA 2016 PRIMO SCURO ROSSO CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA DOC, SARDINIA, ITALY ($15)

Presented by Kristina Sazama, Wine Educator for Santa Margherita USA

As poetically stated on Cantina Mesa’s website, “Sardinia is a place where sea and sky form a single source of light, where vines grow on hillsides pampered by nature, lulled by the sun, and caressed by a wind permeated with the scents of the Mediterranean.” Nestled about a mile from the sea in an idyllic valley near Sant’Anna Arresi, Cantina Mesa’s snow-white walls reflect the brilliant Sardinian sunlight, standing in stark contrast to the dark, thick evergreen scrub brush that blankets the hills beyond. Known in Italian as macchia mediterranea, the growth shelters the winery and its vineyards from the drying Mistral winds. Founded in 2004, Cantina Mesa’s estate comprises 70 hectares, with the majority of its vineyards located in the Carignano del Sulcis DOC. The winery produces 750,000 bottles annually of several local varieties, including the entry-level Primo Scuro Rosso Cannonau di Sardegna DOC presented at the tasting. Like Clai in Croatia, Cantina Mesa’s winemaking is minimalist: Fermentation and maturation occur in stainless steel to showcase the purity of varietal character and terroir. “There is not a toothpick of oak on this wine,” said presenter Kristina Sazama, Wine Educator for importer Santa Margherita USA. “The style of Cantina Mesa focuses on transparency to highlight the essence of the variety.” While several misled participants identified the wine as Pinot Noir, a handful of others correctly guessed Grenache. “For me, Cannonau [the local name for Grenache] of Sardinia is all about red fruit and spice with supple tannins, while Pinot Noir chan- nels red fruit and earth with finely grained tannins,” Sazama explained. Grapes for the 2016 Primo Scuro Rosso Cannonau were harvested in late September, with maceration lasting one week. The wine then matured in stainless steel and in bottle for roughly five months, preserving its fresh style and luminous ruby color. Supple and spirited, precocious and punchy, the Cannonau showed abundant flavors of sour cherry, pomegranate, red plum, and spicy Mediterranean herbs that fortified a refined and juicy mouthfeel. The soothing and warm finish endured with a persistent vinous glow and lingering hints of savory red fruit peppered with spice and violets.

Imported by Santa Margherita USA.

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TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 65 10/1/18 6:31 PM BLIND TASTINGS

WINE #4: WINE #5: BAROSSA VALLEY ESTATE TRAPICHE MEDALLA 2014 2015 GSM, BAROSSA VALLEY, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, AUSTRALIA ($13) MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

Presented by Gina Grilli, Account Sales Manager ($25) for Delegat USA Presented by Agustina Brizuela, Wine Ambassador for Trapiche

Australia’s Barossa The moment Wine Valley Estate produces Ambassador only red wines: a single- Agustina Brizuela of varietal Shiraz, a Cabernet Argentina’s Trapiche Sauvignon, and a Grenache/ stood up to introduce Shiraz/Mourvèdre (GSM) herself and unveil blend. “Our philosophy is Wine #5, a murmur to capture the distinctive of acknowledgement elegance, finesse, and rippled through the vibrant fruit flavors of room. “I think that one of the world’s most many of you now celebrated wine regions, assume this wine the Barossa Valley,” said must be Malbec,” Gina Grilli, Account she said with a smile Sales Manager for parent as she removed the company Delegat USA, as bottle from its blind- she unveiled the wine. tasting bag, “but it Nestled on the southern edge of the country, the Barossa is not.” “And why Valley looks more like a savanna than a verdant lowland. would it be?!” a gentleman shouted from the back of The contrast between the sprawling rows of green grape- the room in mock exasperation. As the laughter died vines and the barren, straw-colored mounds of the Barossa down, Brizuela explained that Trapiche remains com- Range is stark, yet it never fails to impress and inspire. In mitted to showcasing Argentina’s hallmark grapes: these foothills, with their tapestry of abundant minerals and “There are many great wines from Argentina. We friable red clay loam soils, Barossa Valley Estate’s grapes wanted to show you something different than what develop a vibrancy and depth of flavor that’s come to define you would expect,” she said. the region’s distinctive style of wine. While Trapiche is a leading producer of premium The Barossa Valley Estate 2015 GSM presented at the single-varietal Malbec, the winery also cultivates tasting blends 35% Grenache, 34% Shiraz, and 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Mourvèdre, with each vineyard block harvested and vini- Merlot, Pinot Grigio, Moscato, Torrontés, and fied separately. The ripe fruit was destemmed, macerated, Sauvignon Blanc across 2,470 acres of proprietary and fermented for up to seven days, with temperatures and pump-overs controlled to retain the elegant varietal characteristics during the creation of a soft tannin structure. After malolactic fermentation, the wine aged for ten months in French oak barrels. TYRION WOULD “Our 2015 GSM blend is fresh and fragrant, showcasing BE NO MATCH three of the Barossa Valley’s incredible grapes brought FOR THE ARMY OF together to create a wine much greater than the sum of its parts,” Grilli said. She went on to describe how Grenache TALENTED INDUSTRY lends floral aromatics and earthy notes; Shiraz adds finesse PROFESSIONALS and a spicy black- and red-fruit character; and Mourvèdre ASSEMBLED AT THE injects tense blackberry fruit and subtle herbal notes. French-oak aging completes the package, seamlessly SOCIETY OF WINE weaving together a seductive texture, approachable, EDUCATORS ANNUAL versatile style, and delicious flavor profile bursting with CONFERENCE IN cherries and blackberries. Grilli recommends pairing the wine with steak, charcuterie, roast fowl, mushrooms, or NEW YORK’S FINGER semi-hard cheeses. LAKES REGION.

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TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 66 10/1/18 6:31 PM vineyards. (The winery also purchases fruit WINE #6: from 200 independent producers.) Set against a backdrop dominated by the awe-inspiring, HERZOG 2016 SPECIAL RESERVE snow-capped Andes Mountains, these vineyards CABERNET SAUVIGNON, LAKE straddle foothills and slopes of various elevations within the Mendoza region. COUNTY, CALIFORNIA ($40) The grapes for the 2014 Medalla Cabernet Presented by Gabriel Geller, Director of Public Relations and Wine Sauvignon were sourced from two vineyards, one Education for the Royal Wine Corporation in Maipú and the other in Lujan de Cuyo. “These vineyards lie at lower elevations—of course, in Mendoza, ‘lower elevation’ means just 2,800 feet The final selection in the Game for Maipú and 3,300 feet for Lujan de Cuyo,” of Wines lineup transported par- Brizuela said with a smile. Trapiche also prides ticipants back to the Northern itself on its sustainable and Biodynamic viticultural Hemisphere—specifically, the practices, shunning the use of chemicals, herbi- up-and-coming, high-altitude cides, and fungicides while utilizing vegetable and wine region of Lake County in animal-waste composts as fertilizers. Llamas and California, where Herzog Wine sheep also help maintain the ecosystem by grazing Cellars produces award-winning on weeds as they roam the vineyards. Cabernet Sauvignon and several The Medalla label, created to celebrate more single-varietal wines. Trapiche’s 100th anniversary in 1983, was The Herzog family has been Argentina’s first premium single-varietal making wine since the mid-19th wine. In the 35 years since its launch, Medalla century, when Baron Philip Cabernet Sauvignon continues to win over Herzog became renowned as the consumers and demonstrate Trapiche’s lasting wine supplier to Emperor Franz commitment to excellence. Joseph of the Austro-Hungarian For the label’s 2014 vintage, which was presented Empire. Today, his descendants at the Games of Wines event, the winemaking produce wines, spirits, and team decided on 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. The liqueurs in 13 countries through their company, the Royal Wine grapes were manually harvested, bunch-selected, Corporation, widely considered to be an unequivocal leader in and cold-macerated in small vats for 25 days before kosher-wine production, distribution, and importation. aging 18 months in new French oak. This produced At the family’s state-of-the-art winery amid in the straw- a deep-red wine with violet hues, aromas of red berry fields and farm rows of Oxnard, Herzog Winemaker fruit and plums, and balsamic notes of red bell Joe Hurliman sources grapes from some of California’s finest pepper and camphor. Polished tannins and flavors growing regions and appellations, among them Napa Valley, of earthy black fruit and spice lend a sophisticated, Alexander Valley, Spring Mountain, Oak Knoll, and Lake County. Old World touch to a bottling with food-pairing From the latter area, the Herzog Special Reserve 2016 prowess and quality far surpassing its price. Cabernet Sauvignon presented at Game of Wines hails from vineyards planted at an elevation of 1,500 feet above sea Imported by The Wine Group. level. Gabriel Geller, Director of Public Relations and Wine Education for the Royal Wine Corporation, said the 2016 was the third vintage produced by Herzog from Lake County fruit. “While the grapes for the Lake County Cab are sourced from contracted growers, future vintages will be produced from vineyards that Royal Wine recently purchased in the Red Hills AVA,” he explained. Geller told participants that he personally values a side-by- side comparison of the three wines: “The first vintage, 2014, is riper and fleshier. The 2015 shows more elegance and freshness, but the 2016 is more serious with well-built structure. It’s a wine that can age decades,” he added. The 2016 Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon was heady with rich aromas of blackberry jam and cassis followed by wafting notes of mocha, sandalwood, and leather. Concentrated flavors of cherry pie, baking spice, and dark chocolate—ensconced in velvety tannins and lifted by high-elevation acidity—all fold together to produce a delicious wine well-suited for roasted meats and aged cheddar cheese.

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TP1018_032-67_KNV5.indd 67 10/1/18 6:31 PM WILLAMETTE VALLEY Established: 1983 The Planted Area: 19,300 acres (7,800 hectares) Predominant Soils: Marine sedimentary, volcanic, loess Unique Terroir: The Willamette Valley features one of the coolest winegrowing climates in North America.

Willamette 1. Boedecker Cellars 2014 Athena Pinot Noir ($38) A tart-cherry nose with a bit of cedar; earthy and sweet on the palate with finesse. Light, refreshing, and lovely. 90 Express 2. Chehalem 2016 Three Vineyard Pinot Noir ($30) This wine has a bright, tart nose with spiced notes of cinnamon SPEED-TASTING NEARLY 100 OREGON and cardamom. White pepper and PINOT NOIRS WITH MERIDITH MAY woody tones on the palate. 90 AND ANTHONY DIAS BLUE 3. Coelho Winery 2016 Pinot Noir ($45) This wine is bursting with fresh cranberry and black tea on the nose. Bright by Albert Letizia and fresh, the palate features a touch of earth, cherry, and plum. 91 racing the history of Willamette Valley wine is a fairly simple task. Plantings began as early as the late 1960s with winemaker David Lett 4. Domaine Serene 2015 of The Eyrie Vineyards; increased in the 1970s thanks to the pioneer Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir families of Erath, Ponzi Vineyards, Sokol Blosser, and Adelsheim; ($75) Perfumed, savory, herbal and made some giant leaps in the 1980s with the arrival of Domaine nose. There are lanolin, Drouhin from Burgundy and a visit from Robert Parker. By the sandalwood, and floral tones T1990s, Willamette had earned a reputation as the first producer of distin- throughout with cranberry guished Pinot Noir outside of France. and great depth on the palate. Not long after the 32nd annual International Pinot Noir Celebration Juicy, elegant, long, and (IPNC) in McMinnville, Oregon, came to a close in late July, The Tasting intense. 95 Panel hosted an all-out-blitz tasting of nearly 100 Oregon Pinot Noir wines, 5. Domaine Serene 2015 the vast majority from Willamette Valley. The goal was to see where the Yamhill Cuvee Pinot Noir ($52) wines are weighing in, what’s new and exciting, and how the OGs of Cranberry/pomegranate nose Oregon are holding up. with lilacs, cherry jam, and The panel—comprising Editor-in-Chief Anthony Dias Blue, Publisher high-toned acid on the palate. Meridith May, and Contributing Editor Albert Letizia—tasted a wide range Very expressive, silky, and of styles, from lean and Burgundian to incredibly ripe and modern. Most elegant. 93 importantly, the wines we sampled tended to be true representations of the AVAs they hailed from. 6. Holloran Vineyard Wines 2014 Oregon An equally expansive range of winemaking ability was also on display. Pinot Noir ($28) Ethereal and bright on It’s obvious the state’s “great producers” are great for a reason: Houses like the nose. Very drinkable, pretty, and Domaine Serene, Chehalem, and the aforementioned Domaine Drouhin and tartly Burgundian in style. Finishes a Sokol Blosser continue to make consistently good wines regardless of AVA. little quickly. 91 There were a few pleasant surprises, too. We were very impressed with the 7. Lange Estate Winery 2015 Freedom lineup from Luminous Hills and Montinore Estate, as well as the selections Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir Some earthy from Pike Road, Resonance, Project M, and Coelho Winery, among others. notes on the nose and palate with herbs In the end, Dias Blue seemed even more convinced of what he already and black olives. It’s juicy with intrigu- knew. “I was very impressed with Oregon in general, not just Willamette ing undertones of cherry, earth, and Valley,” he said. “Having grown up on Burgundy, I find these wines to be mushroom. 89 comparable. Of course, there is some bad winemaking here, but seeing what the French producers are able to do along with Domaine Serene and 8. Lavinea 2015 Pinot Noir ($65) There some of the old-timers, it’s clear this is a world-class area for Pinot Noir.” seems to be a hint of brettanomyces on The tasting notes and scores, while decided upon swiftly, were reached the nose, but once you’re past it, the by consensus. Badly corked and acutely flawed wines were not reviewed. wine is gorgeous. Notes of earth, cin- To view the full version of this story online, visit tastingpanelmag.com.

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TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 68 10/1/18 6:29 PM namon sugar, dark cherry, blueberry, lingering finish. 92 DUNDEE HILLS dried roses, and forest floor.90 17. Sweet Cheeks Winery 2015 Vintage Established: 2004 9. Montinore Estate 2016 Pinot Noir ($29) Tart, fresh, and quite Planted Area: 2,300 acres Reserve Pinot Noir ($35) This simple. It’s very drinkable but perhaps wine has a New World “pop” a bit clumsy on the mid-palate. Finishes (930 hectares) of carbonic fruit on the nose; quickly. 87 Predominant Soils: Volcanic on the palate, there's tobacco (Jory series) and cedar. Savory and animal, 18. Tendril Wine Cellars 2014 Unique Terroir: Protected by the it has a good balance of Old Extrovert Pinot Noir ($48) Coast Range to the west and World character and Animal and earth on the the Chehalem Mountains to the nose, with dark plums, black New World fruit. 92 northeast, the area receives less cherries, espresso beans, and 10. Montinore Estate 2016 fennel on the palate. Good cooling from the Pacific Ocean and Graham’s Block Pinot Noir ($50) acid. 90 Columbia Gorge, resulting in warmer Earth and animal fur on the growing seasons than most of nose. The fruit is dark and rich: 19. Tendril Wine Willamette Valley. On the palate it’s expressive, Cellars 2014 Tightrope Pinot ripe, juicy, long, and bold. 93 Noir ($64) Opaque color. 1. Chehalem 2016 Stoller Vineyards The nose is intriguing, with Pinot Noir ($50) Peppered cherries 11. Project M Wines 2016 dark fruit, jasmine, and and espresso on the nose with gor- Personify Pinot Noir ($38) This sandalwood, while the palate geous fruit throughout. Floral and wine has a great nose that is complex and elegant with packed with Rainier cherry. Long pops out of the glass. Very chocolate-coffee and soy. 91 and classic. 93 active, it’s round, pretty, floral, and lively. Hints of jasmine 20. Tyee Wine Cellars 2015 Estate Pinot 2. Domaine Drouhin 2014 Laurene with a long finish.92 Noir ($28) Light and fresh with sweet Pinot Noir ($70) The nose is like tobacco, cherry, and a dry finish.89 bright sunshine with brilliant 12. Project M Wines 2016 cherry, cranberry, and shiny penny. Kairos Bodhi Pinot Noir ($68) This wine 21. Welsh Family Wines 2016 Cancilla A very Burgundian style with a is more earthy than the other Project M Vineyard Pinot Noir ($37) Packed with long, balanced finish.94 releases, but still perfumed and floral. blueberry, black cherry, oregano, and Meaty and generous. 93 balsamic. Slightly elevated in alcohol. 3. Domaine Drouhin 2015 Pinot Noir The finish is savory, earthy, and long.90 ($45) The presence of star fruit on 13. Resonance 2016 Pinot Noir the nose and elegant, sleek cherry ($35) This wine demands a on the palate is well-integrated pause, especially at this price. throughout. It’s smooth, balanced, With a satiny texture, it’s juicy CHEHALEM MOUNTAINS and also very Burgundian in style. and aromatic with a pleasant 95 mouthfeel. Great acid and a Established: 2006 savory, long finish.95 Planted Area: 2,680 acres (1,085 hectares) 4. Domaine Serene 2015 Cote Sud Vineyard Pinot Noir ($100) 14. Rex Hill Vineyards 2015 Predominant Soils: Marine sedimentary, Mesmerizing and fragrant nose of Pinot Noir ($35) A soapy volcanic, loess antique store and fresh linen. This quality on the nose that’s not Unique Terroir: Varied combinations of exotic wine has a deep ruby color present on the palate. Dried soils and elevation can produce wines with a lush, smooth palate and flowers, dark cherry, and of well-defined structure. finish.98 plum on the palate. Hints at Burgundy. 91 5. Domaine Serene 2015 Two Barns 1. Chehalem 2016 Coral Creek Vineyards Pinot Noir ($95) Rose pet- 15. Seven of Hearts Vineyards Pinot Noir ($50) This nose is als and cherry nose. Gamey, mouth- 2015 Very Special active and very perfumed with sweet filling palate with baking spices, Reserve Pinot Noir ($65) Lean, cherry, white pepper, and roses. Peach cinnamon, nutmeg, espresso, and light, fresh style with some and candied orange on the palate mocha. 97 roses on the nose and tart alongside flora and stone fruits. Juicy, cherry, but the palate is simple. fruity, generous, and bright. 95 6. Holloran 2014 Le Pavillon Vineyard Good acid but lacks complexity. Pinot Noir ($52) The nose has an 90 2. Ruby 2015 Estate Blend Pinot Noir earthy, red-pepper quality. Lean ($45) This wine has a mineral-tinged, acidity with zingy fruit. 89 16. Shea Wine Cellars 2016 Shea almost-volcanic nose. Black pepper with Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette earthy notes throughout the palate. The 7. Lavinea 2015 NYSA Vineyard Pinot Valley ($45) This wine has some finish is earthy, savory, and deep. 90 Noir ($65) A barnyard nose and an alcohol coming hot off the nose. With earthy, funky palate. 88 a palate filled with candied cherries, it’s silky and modern with a very juicy,

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TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 69 10/1/18 6:30 PM 8. Seven of Hearts 2016 Pinot EOLA-AMITY HILLS 8. Roserock 2015 Zephirine Pinot Noir Noir ($28) Light and lean with ($60) The earth/cinnamon nose is a mineral-driven mid-palate. Established: 2006 highly perfumed. Dreamy notes of Smooth, long, and balanced Planted Area: 3,000 acres (1,200 gardenia, lanolin, and spice. Long and finish.88 elegant finish.95 hectares) 9. Stoller Family Estate Predominant Soils: Volcanic basalt 9. Stangeland Vineyards 2014 Estate 2016 Pinot Noir ($80) Unique Terroir: The Van Duzer Corridor Pinot Noir ($42) Earth/tobacco nose. Tobacco and earthy nose with benefits from the flow of cool Pacific Smoky, linear, and thin, it’s OK. 70 chocolate and coffee notes. Ocean air, which decreases temperatu- The fruit is tart and bright with res and helps grapes retain their acidity 10. Stangeland Vineyards 2016 Golden great tertiary characteristics. 93 Hillside Vineyard Pinot Noir ($45) Roses as they ripen. and cinnamon on the nose. Smooth, 10. Stoller Family rich, lush, and bold on the palate with a Estate 2016 Reserve Pinot Noir quick finish.90 ($50) Animal on the nose and 1. Coelho Winery 2016 Zeitoun Vineyard an earthy character. The fruit Pinot Noir ($45) A very good, light, fresh 11. Stangeland Vineyards 2016 Vermeer is generous and the finish is wine with mulberry and cranberry on Vineyard Pinot Noir Earth and cin- long. Great complexity. 90 the nose as well as dusty roses and a namon on the nose with some white gentle, beautiful palate. The finish is pepper. The palate is rather spicy with a 11. Stoller Family long and balanced. 93 smooth finish. 89 Estate 2016 Nancy’s Pinot Noir ($70) A stunner with 2. Lavinea 2015 Elton Vineyard Pinot 12. Vincent 2016 Bjornson Vineyard cherry, sweet pipe tobacco, Noir ($75) A forest-floor quality to the Pinot Noir ($27) With lovely aromas sandalwood, and a great nose. Floral palate spiced with cin- of jasmine and cedar on the nose, it’s mouthfeel that’s balanced and namon. The texture is very silky and ethereal. The palate is juicy with notes profound. 94 long. 92 of rhubarb and cherry. Elegant, pure, and long. 92 12. Sokol Blosser 2014 3. Lavinea 2015 Temperance Hill Big Tree Block Pinot Noir ($70) Vineyard Pinot Noir ($75) A delicate, soft 13. Welsh Family Wines 2015 Bjornson Very good with a big fruit and graceful wine with red fruit and Vineyard Pinot Noir ($38) Peppered “pop” on the nose and palate. baking spices throughout. Very smooth, cherry and tobacco on the nose. Floral Notes of freshly tilled soil, rhu- savory, and rich with a long perfume with rosebud and antique- barb, and cranberry finish.92 paper notes. Very earthy, juicy, deep, add femininity with and complex. 92 4. Grochau Cellars 2015 Zenith roses and teeth- Vineyard Pinot Noir ($33) gripping acidity. 93 14. Pike Road 2016 Zenith Earthy nose with a palate of Vineyard Pinot Noir ($50) Cherry 13. Sokol Blosser 2015 Estate red fruit and delicate floral- and mushrooms on the nose Pinot Noir ($40) Plush nose; arrangement flavors. The wine along with cocoa and tobacco. mouthfilling with some gamey, is light and simple yet lovely The mid-palate is very racy, juicy, earthy notes and tarred roses. and well-balanced. 90 and tangy. Finishes long. 91 Very smooth. 92 5. Holloran 2014 Oregon Pinot Noir ($28) 14. Sokol Blosser 2014 Orchard A very light wine with not too much Block Pinot Noir ($70) Great happening. There is some fruit, but it’s MCMINNVILLE chocolate and cherry nose short-lived. 88 with amazing texture. Satin, Established: 2005 6. Project M Wines 2016 gardenias, roses, and juicy Planted Area: 1,750 acres (710 hectares) Filament Vineyard Pinot Noir cherry on the palate. Finishes Predominant Soils: Marine sedimentary, ($55) Wildflowers and red long. 95 marine bedrock, and volcanic berries on the nose. Pungent white pepper and cinnamon Unique Terroir: Compared to surroun- 15. Solena 2016 Prince Hill ding areas, McMinnville is on average Vineyard Pinot Noir ($60) spice on the palate with cooler and drier, with higher-elevation Sweet tobacco and Asian spice on the cranberry, mocha, and cherry. nose with a touch of salinity. Mocha, Very elegant and long. 94 vineyards up to 1,000 feet above sea chocolate, and cranberry with a ripe, level. It also benefits from the cooling 7. Roserock 2015 Pinot Noir rich, sweet berry finish. A very deep winds of the Van Duzer Corridor. ($35) Dotted with salinity and straw- wine. 94 berry on the nose. Some earthy notes 1. Coelho Winery 2016 Delfina Vineyard and pencil shavings alongside dusty Pinot Noir ($45) This wine has a great, rose petals, raspberry, and mulberry. bubble-gum burst of fruit on the nose, Silky, clean, bright, and long. 93 but the palate is much leaner with orange rind, watermelon, and hints of

peach. Well-made and delicious. 93

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TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 70 10/1/18 6:30 PM 2. J. Wrigley Wines 2016 Estate Pinot 5. Luminous Hills 2015 Lux Noir ($68) High-acid with some great Pinot Noir ($42) Very nice with 1. Irvine & Roberts Vineyards 2015 115 minerality. Very rich and long finish.90 a mildly soapy nose; cherry, Block Pinot Noir ($35) White pepper, chocolate, and cranberry cherry, cedar, and chocolate on the nose. dominate a rich mid-palate. Lush, luxurious, and juicy with gor- Lush, deep, and long. geous fruit. Smooth and long finish.94 3. Yamhill Valley Vineyards 2015 Estate 92 Pinot Noir ($22) Roses and strawberry 2. Weisinger Family Winery 2015 Estate on the nose with cherry and mocha on 6. Pike Road 2016 Shea Pinot Noir ($40) It’s like a chocolate the palate. 90 Vineyard Pinot Noir ($50) dream. Cherry notes abound with High-tone cherry on the nose. undertones of rhubarb and anise. Juicy 4. Yamhill Valley Vineyards 2014 Tall Some peach and orange with and rich with a persistent finish.92 Poppy Single Block Designate Pinot earth, heather, and violets. Noir ($75) Smoky, dirty nose. Better on Long finish.93 the palate, but still funky. 88

COLUMBIA GORGE

RIBBON RIDGE Established: 2004 YAMHILL-CARLTON Planted Area: 1,300 acres (525 DISTRICT Established: 2005 hectares) Planted Area: 800 acres (325 hectares) Predominant Soils: Volcanic, lahar, Established: 2004 Predominant Soils: Marine sedimentary loess, silt, sand Planted Area: 2,500 acres (1,010 (Willakenzie series) Unique Terroir: The Columbia River hectares) Unique Terroir: The Ribbon Ridge region Gorge features a cooler, marine-influen- Predominant Soils: Marine sedimentary primarily comprises the Willakenzie ced climate and can grow a wide range (Willakenzie series) series of sedimentary soil, which results of varieties. Unique Terroir: The region is bordered in notably earthy and complex wines. by geographical barriers that result in Phelps Creek Vineyards 2015 Pinot Noir ($34) A slate and mineral quality to warmer temperatures and the earliest 1. Chehalem 2014 The Statement Pinot the nose along with cocoa and cherry. harvest dates in Willamette Valley. The Noir ($99) Iron and dark chocolate with Some Old World flair and notes of wines are ripe with a wealth of dark fruit. a mineral middle that cuts the fruit in espresso, white pepper, raspberry, and half. With high acid, it drinks Old World. cranberry. 92 1. Domaine Serene 2015 Abbey Oaks Silky, juicy, ripe, tangy, and long. 94 Vineyard Pinot Noir ($90) This wine has a rich, seductive nose of dark 2. Ryan Rose 2015 Pinot Noir ($50) cherry and chocolate, as well as a firm Gorgeous nose. The fruit is generous backbone of acidity. Coffee, mocha, with floral notes of violet and lilac OREGON and dark plums on the palate. alongside mocha, mulberry, and Asian Elegant and balanced. 96 spice. Smooth, clean finish.93 From fruit sourced throughout Oregon.

2. Kramer Vineyards 2014 3. Welsh Family Wines 2016 Armstrong Pommard Pinot Noir ($38) Vineyards Pinot Noir ($40) Tilled-soil A to Z Wineworks The Essence Lanolin and jasmine on the and animal nose with some cherry. 2016 Pinot Noir ($20) Chocolate nose. A high-acid, lean, and Old World acidity with animal fur and and cherry on the nose with edgy wine with tart cherry cranberry. Silky, crisp, and earthy; light hints of cinnamon and tart and cranberry notes. 89 and floral; long and lean. 93 cranberry. A pretty little wine, it’s clean, pure, juicy, and long. 3. Lavinea 2015 Lazy River Vineyard 90 Pinot Noir ($55) Intriguing cherry nose with a wet and earthy character of porcini mushroom. Strawberry ROGUE VALLEY and white pepper on the palate. Established: 1991 91 Planted Area: 1,900 acres (800 4. Luminous Hills 2015 Astra hectares) Pinot Noir ($42) Jazzy nose of Predominant Soils: Stream sediments cherry and sandalwood with Unique Terroir: The southernmost seamless notes of strawberry winegrowing region in Oregon, Rogue and cranberry. Firm acidity. A Valley encompasses vineyards typically solid, well-made wine. 92 found at elevations of 1,200–2,000 feet above sea level. Generous sunshine and warmth allow for fully developed fruit and rich wines.

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TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 71 10/1/18 6:30 PM priceless,” said Meridith May, publisher and executive editor of SOMM Journal and The Tasting Panel. Fred Dame, M.S., global wine ambassador at DAOU Vineyards & Winery states, “For a first-time event it was exceptionally well organized, and Community & Camaraderie on the quality of the seminars and events was exemplary.” Now comes Wine Speak 2019, which will include winemaker panels, a blending seminar, winery technical tours, blind tastings, hospitality workshops, the Central Coast a public grand tasting and more. The events will be steered by more than 20 winemakers, master sommeliers and wine experts from around the world. One particularly unique aspect of Wine Speak is that it combines ALL-STAR CAST OF MASTER SOMMELIERS & elements from all facets of the wine industry. “It brings us all together to have ATTENTION WOMEN an entire discussion about wine, and not just one segment of the market,” said SOMMS Greg Harrington, M.S., founder and winemaker at Gramercy Cellars. Apply for Full-Ride WINEMAKERS TO STEER WINE SPEAK 2019 “Wine Speak is an opportunity for all of us to learn from those who Scholarships to Wine can share their insights and valuable experiences,” Furuya said. “It is also a Speak Building upon the success of its inaugural gathering place where you can make new friends, and most importantly, collaborate.” experience last January, Wine Speak is set to WINE SPEAK 2019 HIGHLIGHTS A new nonprofit—Dream Big return once again with an all-star cast of master Tickets to Wine Speak 2019 are now available at Darling—is offering five full-ride sommeliers, wine industry leaders and hospitality Cabernet Sauvignon: Inside & Out WINESPEAKPASO.COM Wine Speak 2019 scholarships professionals on January 7-10, 2019. Panel discussion with Fred Dame, M.S., Eric Jensen, to up-and-coming female Wine Speak is a trade-focused experience Helen Keplinger and Fred Scherrer sommeliers. geared toward fostering community and Recently launched in the Paso Rhône Renegade: Mourvèdre Robles wine country, Dream Big collaboration within the global wine industry. The Panel discussion with Cris Cherry and Greg Darling is on a mission to foster main events take place at the Atascadero City Hall Harrington, M.S. the success of women in the in the heart of the Paso Robles wine country, with wine and spirits industry through additional events and technical tours happening Paso Robles Winey & Vineyard Tours mentorship, education, life around the region. “The feedback from the first Blend Your Own Bottle Workshop enhancement and professional Wine Speak was so incredible that we had to do BYOB “Taste of the World” Dinner retreats. it again,” said Amanda Wittstrom-Higgins, Ancient Peaks Winery’s vice president of operations who For tickets and complete schedule: “We are aiming to help the next co-founded Wine Speak with master sommelier WINESPEAKPASO.COM generation dream bigger and Chuck Furuya. “This one will be even better, and show them what the possibilities are,” said Amanda Wittstrom- our aim remains the same: to create a premier Higgins, founder of Dream Big experience for wine industry professionals to grow and learn together.” Darling. “Through personal Indeed, the inaugural Wine Speak last January was met with critical acclaim and set the pace mentorship and professional for future events. “The depth and breadth of wine professionals, education and networking was development, we want to make Pictured left to right: Chuck Furuya MS, Greg Harrington MS, Fred Dame MS, Nunzio Alioto MS a difference in the lives of women who are aspiring toward long- Generously sponsored by term careers in our industry.”

Dream Big Darling’s Wine Speak 2019 scholarships include access to all events as well as lodging. Qualified sommeliers are invited to apply at Photo Courtesy of Paso Robles Cab Collective Robles Paso Courtesy of Photo DREAMBIGDARLING.ORG

A portion of the proceeds benefit Dream Big Darling a non-profit 501C3 and all of the community charitites it serves. The Dream Big Darling nonprofit will be responsible in collecting all donations and tickets sales.

TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 72 10/1/18 6:30 PM priceless,” said Meridith May, publisher and executive editor of SOMM Journal and The Tasting Panel. Fred Dame, M.S., global wine ambassador at DAOU Vineyards & Winery states, “For a first-time event it was exceptionally well organized, and Community & Camaraderie on the quality of the seminars and events was exemplary.” Now comes Wine Speak 2019, which will include winemaker panels, a blending seminar, winery technical tours, blind tastings, hospitality workshops, the Central Coast a public grand tasting and more. The events will be steered by more than 20 winemakers, master sommeliers and wine experts from around the world. One particularly unique aspect of Wine Speak is that it combines ALL-STAR CAST OF MASTER SOMMELIERS & elements from all facets of the wine industry. “It brings us all together to have ATTENTION WOMEN an entire discussion about wine, and not just one segment of the market,” said SOMMS Greg Harrington, M.S., founder and winemaker at Gramercy Cellars. Apply for Full-Ride WINEMAKERS TO STEER WINE SPEAK 2019 “Wine Speak is an opportunity for all of us to learn from those who Scholarships to Wine can share their insights and valuable experiences,” Furuya said. “It is also a Speak Building upon the success of its inaugural gathering place where you can make new friends, and most importantly, collaborate.” experience last January, Wine Speak is set to WINE SPEAK 2019 HIGHLIGHTS A new nonprofit—Dream Big return once again with an all-star cast of master Tickets to Wine Speak 2019 are now available at Darling—is offering five full-ride sommeliers, wine industry leaders and hospitality Cabernet Sauvignon: Inside & Out WINESPEAKPASO.COM Wine Speak 2019 scholarships professionals on January 7-10, 2019. Panel discussion with Fred Dame, M.S., Eric Jensen, to up-and-coming female Wine Speak is a trade-focused experience Helen Keplinger and Fred Scherrer sommeliers. geared toward fostering community and Recently launched in the Paso Rhône Renegade: Mourvèdre Robles wine country, Dream Big collaboration within the global wine industry. The Panel discussion with Cris Cherry and Greg Darling is on a mission to foster main events take place at the Atascadero City Hall Harrington, M.S. the success of women in the in the heart of the Paso Robles wine country, with wine and spirits industry through additional events and technical tours happening Paso Robles Winey & Vineyard Tours mentorship, education, life around the region. “The feedback from the first Blend Your Own Bottle Workshop enhancement and professional Wine Speak was so incredible that we had to do BYOB “Taste of the World” Dinner retreats. it again,” said Amanda Wittstrom-Higgins, Ancient Peaks Winery’s vice president of operations who For tickets and complete schedule: “We are aiming to help the next co-founded Wine Speak with master sommelier WINESPEAKPASO.COM generation dream bigger and Chuck Furuya. “This one will be even better, and show them what the possibilities are,” said Amanda Wittstrom- our aim remains the same: to create a premier Higgins, founder of Dream Big experience for wine industry professionals to grow and learn together.” Darling. “Through personal Indeed, the inaugural Wine Speak last January was met with critical acclaim and set the pace mentorship and professional for future events. “The depth and breadth of wine professionals, education and networking was development, we want to make Pictured left to right: Chuck Furuya MS, Greg Harrington MS, Fred Dame MS, Nunzio Alioto MS a difference in the lives of women who are aspiring toward long- Generously sponsored by term careers in our industry.”

TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 73 10/1/18 6:30 PM WHO’S WHO Getting Ahead of the Game INTRODUCING THE TOP SAN DIEGO SOMMS YOU NEED TO KNOW

by Brandon Boghosian / photos by James Tran

he question “What can you tell me about San Diego?” typically prompts replies Tof great beaches, craft beers, patio Kara LoVecchio brunches, surfers, fish tacos, Top Gun, Ron and Augusto Burgundy, and sub-par baseball. The answer Ferrarese of The I’m always looking for, however, is “a second- Urban Kitchen tier market with a first-class community of Group. hospitality pros.” To be fair, San Diego is like your friend who gets jokes ten minutes after you tell them: just a bit behind the times. That’s OK for San Diegans—things move just a little bit slower there, yet the hospitality sphere somehow always remains a step or two ahead of the game. They’ve got Top Chefs, Iron Chefs, Master Chefs, industry-leading cocktail pros, and a thriving community of brilliant, talented, and dedicated sommeliers. And as of September, the city had also added two new Masters to the family: Master of Wine Lindsay Pomeroy (for more on Pomeroy, see page 32) and Master Sommelier Josh Orr. Here’s our list of the top 12 sommeliers to visit next time you’re in “America’s Finest City”:

AUGUSTO FERRARESE and KARA LOVECCHIO, Urban Kitchen Group: Ferrarese decided to leave his two-Michelin-star restaurant in Italy to sell great wine stateside. He now serves as the Beverage Director for Urban Kitchen Group, which stretches from Orange County to San Diego. LoVecchio, meanwhile, pours wine and lays on the charm at Cucina Urbana in Bankers Hill. Both Cucina Urbana and sister concept Cucina Enoteca have extensive lists that delve deep into Old World classics while surprising with lesser-known gems. Count on Ferrarese to always have a superb, affordable Italian wine on deck that you’ve never heard of.

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TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 74 10/1/18 6:30 PM RAFAEL PETERSON, Born and Raised: A San Diego native, RAFAEL SANCHEZ and VICTORIA Peterson is the first proper O’BRYAN, Addison: What can I sommelier to join Consortium say that has not already been said Holdings as he curates the wine about Addison, the otherworldly list at its flagship establishment, dining experience at the Fairmont Born and Raised. CH put all its Grand Del Mar hotel? Its list goes ambition into one basket and it’s 3,500 wines and 10,000 bottles deep

PHOTO COURTESY OF RAFAEL PETERSON OF RAFAEL COURTESY PHOTO paid off tremendously: From table- as far back as 1865 (Madeira, by the side cocktails to seared foie, it’s glass!). Addison is unquestionably making what was old new again the pinnacle of dining in San Diego, with fantastic flair. When he’s not and its award-winning list spans busy leading the charge through the globe. A program of this caliber Rafael Peterson of Born service, Peterson is out promoting Victoria O’Bryan of is exceedingly rare in Southern and Raised. his fellow professionals. Addison. California, and Sanchez and O’Bryan are more than worthy of it.

MARK VALIN, The Bridges at Rancho Santa Fe: If you’re not TEDDY PANOS, Stake Chophouse jealous of Valin’s social media and Bar: The nicest guy in town, feed (@so_mmel_ier), check your Panos has hospitality in his pulse. The program he’s built over bones. The list at Stake showcases the years is one of staggering roughly 700 labels and covers breadth and depth, and the access nearly every wine region on the his members have to the selection planet. Pile on a strong cocktail of fine wine he’s curated is second program as well as a growing to none in San Diego. You can range of sake and fortified wines, find Valin working the Pebble and Stake has quickly become Beach Food & Wine event every one of the finest places to drink Mark Valin of The spring as a volunteer somm: If on Coronado. Panos also has a ’72 Bridges at Rancho you’re looking for him, just follow Teddy Panos of Stake Chevelle SS parked in his garage, Santa Fe. the Champagne. Chophouse and Bar. because he’s that cool. Mark Valin from The Bridges at Rancho Santa Fe. ALEX MEGDESSIAN, Market: A North County institution, DUSTIN CANO and DAVE WIEGEL, Meritage Wine Market: If Market has for years been one of the best joints for drink- you love the world’s most widely planted variety and you ing well when you’re north of La Jolla. It has a tremendous named your cats Peter and Michael, head to Meritage Wine by-the-glass program and a thoughtfully designed list that Market. They offer tastings at the shop as well as educational does a great job of covering the classics, but it’s just geeky opportunities and private-cellar consulting. The shelves enough to impress the savvy drinker. There’s plenty of old are stocked with everything from patio-pounding rosé to Bordeaux for when you feel like spending the equivalent jeroboams of decades-old Château d’Yquem and Dominus. of a mortgage payment, as well as insanely affordable and Cano and Wiegel have curated a retail program at the equally delicious items like German Pinot, Loire Valley Cab pinnacle of the wine game, covering the approachable to the Franc, and half-bottles of Krug. As for Megdessian, there lavishly luxurious right in San Diegans’ backyard. are many reasons for me to love him—first and foremost because he’s a fellow Armenian. KATIE FAWKES, The Rose: So you’re not a big Cab drinker, and Cali ASHLEY PHILLIPS, Island Prime: Chardonnay isn’t for you—in fact, you Phillips manages to accomplish don’t like anything your parents drank. the near-impossible—maintain- That’s perfect, because Fawkes and the ing a relevant, exciting program other ladies at The Rose will be dying at a prime steakhouse. She’s to meet you. You can tuck in for brunch pouring German Sekt and dry and crush all the natty Pét-Nat your Furmint by the glass in addition heart desires before taking a bottle to offering an expansive list of to go, too. The Rose was killing the

PHOTO COURTESY OF ASHLEY PHILLIPS ASHLEY OF COURTESY PHOTO big reds. She loves drinking wine natural wine game before it was cool, while barefoot (but not while and the kitchen, helmed by Chelsea she’s on the clock). Katie Fawkes of Coleman, also turns out terrific food. The Rose. It’s a spectacular gem hidden away Ashley Phillips of in the otherwise sleepy and mostly Island Prime. residential South Park neighborhood.

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TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 75 10/1/18 6:30 PM TPM_Jack_Daniels_CVR.pdf 1 5/11/17 3:28 PM PM 3:28 5/11/17 1 TPM_Jack_Daniels_CVR.pdf

DEPARTMENTESSENTIAL HEADERCOCKTAILS

THE KING OF

WHY JACK & COKE HAS BECOME THE BAR WORLD’S INTERNATIONAL CALL OF CHOICE

t’s rare that a specific spirit makes its way into a cocktail name. After all, any number of gin expressions can be used for a Gin & Tonic, a Whiskey Ginger is as generic as they come, and Vodka Sodas span a broad category filled with I all sorts of neutral spirits vying for a spot in the glass. It’s fitting, however, that Jack Daniel’s grabs the headline in a Jack & Coke cocktail: The instantly recognizable whiskey all but defines the universally beloved drink, which has become a classic call in nearly every corner of the world.

by Izzy Watson

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TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 76 10/1/18 6:30 PM

“From time to time you may just the wood characteristics, like vanilla, Cola [headquarters in Atlanta],” he want to sit down at a bar, relax, and caramel, and some spice,” she explains. says. “You’re talking about a three-hour enjoy a moment with an old friend. As with many cocktails, the Jack drive between two of the most iconic For many of us, that friend is a Jack & & Coke’s origins are murky. Yet, and delicious refreshments available Coke—delicious, reliable, and available according to New York–based Will anywhere in the United States, if not from corner bars to cocktail bars and Benedetto, Beverage Director at the world.” Benedetto agrees with this everywhere in between, it’s a true Nashville’s Fox Bar & Cocktail Club and “what grows together, goes together” classic,” says U.S. Brand Ambassador Cocktail Curator for In Good Company mentality: “By this principle, Jack & Eric “ET” Tecosky. Ryan Bray, General Hospitality, “the DNA of Jack Daniel’s Coke is a natural combination, if not Manager of Linwood Country Club and Coke is quite similar.” “The cre- cosmic destiny!” he adds. in Linwood, New Jersey, couldn’t ation of Jack Daniel’s and the original While the Jack & Coke may have agree more: “Fads and gimmicks will recipe for Coca-Cola happened right some anthropological roots in the never end, but the legends of culinary world, the drink the game will stand the test of represents much more than time. Jack & Coke is one that in the modern era. At the of those.” iconic music venue Rainbow The Tasting Panel wanted to Bar & Grill on the Sunset Strip find out just what makes the in Hollywood, where the clas- combination of Jack Daniel’s sic cocktail has been ordered and Coca-Cola so special, so by musicians for decades, we turned to bartenders from it’s a veritable rock ’n’ roll around the country to take legend. “The Jack & Coke is a deeper look at this decep- the number-one-selling drink tively simple drink while at the Rainbow Bar & Grill— asking the question, “Why you can also order it as ‘The Jack & Coke?” Lemmy,’” says owner Mikael The answers were varied, Maglieri in reference to late but one thing’s for sure: Not Motörhead band member Ian just any ol’ whiskey and soda “Lemmy” Kilmister, a famous will do. “Don’t ever mix Jack fan of the drink. with another cola,” warns Whether it’s the brand’s Keith McCarthy, General charcoal mellowing, toasted Manager at Jones Hollywood and charred barrels, edgy vibe, in Los Angeles. “I don’t or proximity to Coca-Cola’s think you should mess with birthplace, there are plenty perfection.” Travis Sanders, of theories as to why the Jack a bartender at Pennyroyal & Coke is, indeed, the “king in Seattle, also believes of classics”—but there’s no there’s something magical disputing that there’s some- about the melding of these thing that makes this combina- two iconic flavors. “You can tion one of a kind. For many, try another whiskey with it’s one drink that’s perfect as Coke, but I think Jack shines is, and according to Tecosky, through and blends better,” it’s something bartenders he explains. “You don’t lose “shouldn’t have to think too the Jack flavor in the Coke—maybe around the same time,” he continues. hard about.” Marvin Allen, a bartender it’s the charcoal mellowing, but I feel “The same communities that were at New Orleans’ legendary Carousel Bar like Jack and Coke were made for distilling their grains and tinkering at the Hotel Monteleone, agrees: “The each other.” with new ways to make spirits like Jack closest thing I’d do to ‘modernize’ a Jack Charcoal mellowing was also a were also combining herbs, teas, and & Coke would be placing a lemon or sticking point for Shannon Kroll, who sweeteners with water to create new lime wedge on the glass and squeezing serves as a cocktail consultant for non-alcoholic refreshments.” it into the cocktail,” he says. Actionable Craft LLC. “When the rich- While Joshua Tallent now serves Despite the drink’s timelessness, ness of Jack, the result of sugar-maple as the Beverage Manager of White plenty of bartenders have taken some charcoal mellowing, is married with Lodging, which runs Le Méridien and poetic license as modern techniques the caramel flavor of Coke, it creates an the AC Hotel by Marriott in Denver, and inventive spirits help them infuse easy-sipping combo that’s just meant his Southern roots mean he’s well- their creative energies into new to be together,” she says. On the other acquainted with Jack and its carbon- interpretations. Look for some of these hand, Carol Donovan, who bartends ated counterpart. “Growing up in the amazing cocktail recipes in the upcom- at Burton Place in Chicago, attributes South, it’s so easy to tell why this drink ing November issue of The Tasting the magic to how the Jack barrels are became so popular when we have the Panel as top bartenders present their toasted and charred: “The rich, syrupy Jack Daniel’s distillery [in Lynchburg, innovative riffs on the Jack & Coke: a sweetness of Coke balances nicely with Tennessee] situated so closely to Coca- global icon.

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TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 77 10/1/18 6:30 PM DEPARTMENTEVENT RECAP HEADER During a perfuming session courtesy of Sipsmith Gin, Bay Area bartenders were encouraged to sip on an array of Sipsmith cocktails, including this Stirred and Stiff Sipsmith London Dry Martini riff and a refreshing and fruity Sloe Gin Fizz (both pictured below).

Sensibility Scents and SIPSMITH GIN HOSTS BAY AREA BARTENDERS FOR A BOTANICAL FRAGRANCE WORKSHOP

by Mara Marski / photos by Erica Bartel

o establish their distillery in London in 2009, Sipsmith Gin founders Sam Galsworthy and Fairfax Hall overcame Trestrictive regulations enacted nearly two centuries ago by successfully having the laws themselves changed. But as popular as Sipsmith has become for its pioneering and rebellious spirit, it’s also known for its adherence to classic London gin traditions and well-balanced bevy of distinctive botanicals. The bartenders’ fragrances featured To explore and celebrate the brand’s illustrious ingredients, West top, middle, and base notes inspired Coast Brand Ambassador Lucy Ellis hosted a group of Bay Area by the botanical profile of Sipsmith. bartenders for a July “scent-sploration” of the Sipsmith portfolio. Upon arriving at a literary-themed bar temporarily transformed into a perfumery, the bartenders were greeted with teacups of Sipsmith punch before putting their noses to work.

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TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 78 10/1/18 6:30 PM The workshop, led by perfumers Rachel Latimer and Travis McIntosh of the Scotts Valley–based Perfumer’s Apprentice, challenged bartenders to craft their own gin-inspired fragrances while learning about aroma layering and the proper balancing of top, middle, and base notes in a respective scent. After a quick discussion, the bartenders selected their aromatic ingredients from a wide assortment of Sipsmith-inspired essences, ranging from fresh and floral notes like lemon and dewfruit to woodier additions like coriander and licorice. Not unlike crafting a cocktail, the process involved concep- tualizing a fragrance, testing the aromas of each ingredient on scent strips, and eventually balancing the layered components. After fine-tuning their blend, the bartenders combined their ingredients with a neutral alcohol, Perfumers Rachel Latimer and Travis McIntosh join West Coast skin-testing as they went to track their progress and Sipsmith Brand Ambassador Lucy Ellis in helping Bay Area bartenders adjust the final aroma. When the final bottles had better understand the delicate interplay of botanicals in Sipsmith Gin. been capped and sealed, Ellis led the group through a tasting, during which the bartenders’ heightened aromatic perceptions lent a keenness to their palates and helped spotlight hidden nuances in the Sipsmith expressions. While showcasing the London Dry expression, Ellis first noted the heavy citrus on the nose: Seville orange peel and sweet lemon with just a slight tinge of juniper berry. Coriander then emerged on the palate, imparting a gentle spice while echoing the citrus. “When Jared Brown agreed to come onboard as Sipsmith’s Master Distiller, he had one condition: The founders had to promise to make gin the way it should be made,” Ellis said, adding that Sipsmith owes its character to an 18th-century recipe from The Art of Distilling. Ellis also highlighted two additional ingredients found among in the perfumers’ collection: licorice and angelica root. “We use licorice-root powder in Sipsmith. It isn’t nearly as potent a flavor as Travis McIntosh assists Bay Area bartenders Kristina Howald Cox, the essence you were working with today, but it’s Cassie Davis, Emily Elda, and Jillian Newman as they layer and responsible for the lingering sweetness of the gin,” balance their fragrances. Ellis said. She then explained that a small amount of the powdered root performs the molecular legwork of sugar, which would caramelize in Sipsmith’s fairly odorless, yet it acts as an important binding agent. copper stills. The powdered angelica root, meanwhile, is “Several people mentioned that certain ingredients in their perfume acted to pull the top, middle, and base notes together, and that’s exactly what the angelica root does for the London Dry,” Ellis said. The bartenders also tasted Sipsmith’s VJOP (Very Junipery Over Proof) expression, which is macerated with three times the amount of juniper used for the London Dry (a fresh lot of dried berries is also added to the still after the lengthier 72-hour maceration). “For some juniper lovers, the London Dry is too smooth,” Ellis explained. “In the VJOP, it yields a great, thick oiliness and punch at 57.7% ABV from the second you smell it.” One attendee also noted a predominance of spice on the finish, which Ellis credits to the prominent juniper and coriander as well as cassia and cinnamon. “The fresh juniper in the still amplifies the other root-spice notes that are present,” Lucas Janowski and Nia Person test possible combinations she replied. “Just like how we crafted our perfume today, we for their fragrances on scent strips. build things very deliberately, because as flavors layer they play off of each other and grow in complexity.”

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TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 79 10/1/18 6:31 PM CATEGORY REPORT

New Rum Rising: Spook- SPOOK- RON IZALCO TACULAR

tacular “Any press is good press” may be a well-known saying, but it certainly helps when all that publicity is positive—especially Spirits for a product that has yet to be released. New super-premium Spirits rum brand Ron Izalco took home a JOIN THE TASTING PANEL AS WE HOCUS- Gold Medal at the 2018 San Francisco FOCUS ON SOME OF OUR FAVORITE World Spirits Competition for its 10 Year Aged Rum, and the accolade—as BROWN AND FLAVORED SPIRITS well as its stellar review from The Tasting Panel—bodes well for the spirit’s October release in Europe and its December/January stateside debut. Produced in Central America, Ron bab Izalco rum is inspired by the volcanic terrain of Izalco in El Salvador. Its With October’s arrival, the Halloween season is mineral-rich black soil, combined with upon us. To pay homage to one of our most antici- the tropical climate of the region, yields pated holidays, this month’s Category Report honors some of the highest-quality sugarcane brown spirits suited up in their barrel-aged best and in the world, spawning a memorable flavored favorites decked out in their first-rate finery. expression devoid of artificial colors or While bartenders and mixologists often view flavoring. Crafted with care, this high- the flavored category with skepticism due to its end rum is sure to light up the spirits long-held reputation for dubious ingredients and industry upon its release. additives, its trend toward craftsmanship—especially —Jesse Hom-Dawson under the tutelage of smaller brands more focused on hands-on production methods and natural Ron Izalco 10 Year Aged Rum Exotic flavors—has helped its star rise in recent years. aromas of patchouli, beeswax, apricots, Paired with a timeless category like brown spirits, and jasmine stun. The palate opens slowly, they’re sure to keep your guests engaged well into revealing a tongue-coating array of flavors: the winter months and beyond. toffee, almonds, sweet tobacco, and ripe Don’t trick yourself into thinking you can pass up peach. A sweetness comes in mid-palate, these brands: Instead, read on for our top picks of warming the mouth with an oatmeal-and- the fall and be sure to treat yourself to some new maple fluidity. Enchanting. 98 bottles at your establishment. We promise the only —Meridith May thing spooky about this month’s featured products is how good they taste! —Mara Marski PHENOMENAL SPIRITS, INC.

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TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 80 10/1/18 6:31 PM A Jetsetting Portfolio: TOTAL BEVERAGE SOLUTION Since its inception, Total Beverage Solution (TBS) has been working to import and distribute some of the most storied and flavorful beverages on the market. The company has worked tirelessly since its founding in 2002 to track down hidden gems from around the world for its international patchwork of a portfolio. Total Beverage Solution is passionate about sharing the remarkable history behind its brands, among them Signatory Single Malt Scotch, which provides single malts ranging from five to 50 years old; Ron Abuelo Rum, established in 1908; Croizet Cognac, which offers vintages dating back to 1858 that can be sold today for up to $160,000; and its newest offering, a robust Canadian whisky from Signal Hill that bursts with flavor before lingering softly on the finish. The dramatic evolutions experienced in the global cocktail scene over the course of the past 20 years have led to a rediscovery of many once-forgotten spirits, which in turn has led to unprecedented market growth. For example, TBS has represented Amaro Montenegro, founded in 1885, for just the past five years: In that time, the company has seen the amari category make exponential gains, with the brand itself experiencing growth of more than 1,200 percent. While the TBS portfolio doesn’t solely encompass brown spirits, the company has capital- ized on the tremendous growth of the category in the last seven years, especially in regards to Irish whiskey and Cognac. TBS remains intent on helping consumers discover some of the rarest and most interesting global spirits while enabling them to learn about their favorite brands’ history. For more information on the full Total Beverage Solution brand portfolio, visit totalbeveragesolution.com.

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TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 81 10/1/18 6:31 PM CATEGORY REPORT

Approachability Rules: SEERSUCKER SOUTHERN STYLE GIN

Seersucker Gin owes its origin to an unlikely friend: vodka. After building a distillery in San Antonio in 2010, husband-and-wife team Trey and Kimberly Azar started their business from the ground up through the production of their Cinco Vodka brand. Years spent marketing and distributing Cinco showed the couple that there was a strong desire for more gin options at on-premise accounts; the category, however, has historically been almost completely dominated by imported brands, which can be intimidating for vodka drinkers looking to branch out to a new category. “We saw this and wanted to make our own gin that could be stylistically approachable, fun, and enticing for newcomers to try,” Trey says. The pair got stuck on the specifics until one day Trey found himself stuck in line behind two young men in seersucker shorts at a coffee shop. As he overheard them discuss which Kentucky Derby parties they were planning on attending, Trey immediately called his wife to let her know inspiration had finally struck. “Seersucker has an Americana feel—its history starts from South with this back-porch, Southern-hospitality aspect and wraps all the way up the Northeast on Martha’s Vineyard—and I knew we wanted to channel that both stylistically and in the flavor profile,” Trey explains. Both regions influenced the development of their brand’s recipe, with the duo narrow- ing in on Southern kitchens and the sense of comfort they provide. Above all, the Azars knew they wanted to stand out from the pre-existing heavy hitters in the category, namely juniper-heavy London Dry gins.

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TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 82 10/1/18 6:31 PM Instead, they sought to balance their botanicals with flavors drawn directly from their surroundings. With a nose of lemon and orange zest, a balanced juniper backbone, and lingering notes of honey and mint on the finish, Seersucker appeals to seasoned gin and vodka drinkers looking to broaden their horizons. “For us, Seersucker has always been a platform to grow the gin category domestically and make it friendlier,” Trey says. This April, the Azars took their dedication to approachability to new lengths with the release of their Seersucker Southern Style Lemonade and Limeade, currently available in 13 states. Though the new expressions must be labeled as “flavored” by law, Trey says they avoid the connotation of a sugary, syrupy product by shunning the use of additives in favor of naturally sourced ingredients. That ingredient list is impressively concise for the 70-proof beverages: Seersucker Southern Style Lemonade adds fresh lemon juice and lavender to a Seersucker Gin base, while the Limeade sees the addition of fresh key lime juice and mint. Because of their interest in simplifying home bartending, the Azars always knew they wanted to introduce lemon- and lime-flavored gin to the domestic market. “Anyone can go to a bar and see a professional make an incredible seven-ingredient cocktail, but with the Seersucker Lemonade and Limeade, people can go home and make themselves a great drink with two or three ingredients,” Trey says. While their implications for home bartending help the new products excel in off-premise settings, their on-premise potential is also sizable, especially at accounts that aren’t heavily craft-oriented or lack juicing programs. “Even the mixologists we’ve tasted on Lemonade and Limeade have been deeply conflicted about how much they’ve liked a ‘flavored’ spirit,” Trey says with a laugh.

Seersucker Southern Style Limeade A 70-proof treat for the senses. Aromas of fresh-squeezed lime perfume the air. Tingling the palate, a hint of salinity opens up an array of gardenia, lanolin, and honeysuckle. Spearmint lends a clean mouthfeel, while dots of juniper and basil set off to the finish. 92 —M.M.

Seersucker Southern Style CLOVER Lemonade Meyer lemon has never CLUB smelled so intriguing—like a sea breeze blowing through a coastal ◗ 2 oz. Seersucker orchard. The zest of the lemon comes Lemonade Gin forward with the initial sip, blossom- ◗ ½ oz. fresh lemon juice ing into a fruit basket of cantaloupe, ◗ ½ oz. simple syrup Golden Delicious apple, and a spray ◗ 5 raspberries of white pepper. Dried lavender ◗ 1 egg white forms on the finish, changing the landscape to a field of flowers. 93 Combine and dry shake. Add —M.M. ice, shake again, and strain straight up.

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TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 83 10/1/18 6:31 PM CATEGORYDEPARTMENT REPORT HEADER

Tireless Trailblazer: A Bear of a Brand: ABSOLUT VODKA BÄRENJÄGER Absolut Vodka has always With a history dating back to 18th-century been ahead of the curve Germany, the recipe that launched the Bärenjäger within the spirits industry, brand originated as a formula hunters and fur trap- with its iconic advertising pers used to lure bears out of hiding. The drinkable campaign launched in the honey, originally known as Bärenfang (“bear trap”) 1980s serving as the most proved irresistible not only to the animals, but to visible example. The brand their pursuers as well. also released flavored expres- The number-one honey liqueur sions long before the trend in Germany, Bärenjäger Honey caught on with other vodka Liqueur ($29/750-milliliter bottle) labels, and with the launch features a high concentration of of its newest flavor,Absolut all-natural honey, and, at 70 proof, Grapefruit ($20), Absolut will can impart a hint of sweetness continue its innovative streak and a bit of an edge to a wide of successes while remaining range of cocktails. Available in the number-one imported 1-liter, 750-milliliter, 375-milliliter, vodka brand in the U.S. and 50-milliliter bottles, the Absolut Grapefruit joins the liqueur can also be enjoyed neat, company’s best-selling citrus on the rocks, or in a warm libation. portfolio of Absolut Citron, This Oktoberfest, Bärenjäger invites consumers to Absolut Mandrin, and Absolut add a shot to their beer—particularly wheat beer—as Lime, the latter of which was it debuts a $29 limited-edition gift set with a 750-mil- released just last year. Made liliter bottle of Bärenjäger Honey Liqueur and a without added sugar*, the new Bärenjäger–branded stemmed beer glass. expression distinguishes itself The 70-proof Bärenjäger Honey Bourbon from competing flavored spir- ($29/750-milliliter bottle), meanwhile, blends the its on the market by exuding just the right amount brand’s honey liqueur with American bourbon of pink grapefruit notes with a slight sweetness. whiskey, emerging as a category standout thanks Released this summer, Absolut Grapefruit can give to the craftsmanship of its producer, Schwarze a particularly memorable twist to a classic Paloma, & Schlichte. With its balanced, oak-tinged flavor but its ability to meld with a variety of drinks makes profile and lingering threads of sweetness, it’s the it a must-have for any bartender’s collection. only imported honey liqueur featuring bourbon —Jesse Hom-Dawson and no artificial flavors. —Kate Newton

Bärenjäger Honey Bourbon ABSOLUT GRAPEFRUIT If the potent honey notes on SWEDISH PALOMA the nose aren’t already pure ◗ 2 oz. Absolut Grapefruit enough, the voluptuously buoyant liquid will prove ◗ 2 oz. fresh grapefruit juice its dulce point. Flavors of ◗ ½ oz. fresh lime juice lemon blossom enrich ◗ 1 oz. soda water the sweetness of the Combine all ingredients except soda water honey while a jazzy and shake. Pour shaker contents into a tingle of white pepper Highball glass with a salted rim and top with zeroes in on and tackles soda water. Garnish with a grapefruit wedge. any cloying notes. It's a perfect mixer for classic cocktails. 90 —M.M. *Per 1.5 fluid ounce: 97 calories; 0 grams carbohydrates, protein, sugar, and fat.

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TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 84 10/1/18 6:31 PM Straight from the Garden: CHASE DISTILLERY ELDERFLOWER LIQUEUR

The thought of rural English towns often conjures images of rolling hills with greenery extending as far as the eye can see, and when it comes to the county of Herefordshire, that’s not too far from the truth. Founded in the area by potato farmer William Chase, the family-owned Chase Distillery grows the produce utilized in the production of its vodkas, gins, and fruit liqueurs: By evoking the nature of its hometown, the company exemplifies the true spirit of field-to-bottle craftsmanship. The distillery and the single-estate farm coexist on the property, allowing staff to closely supervise every step of the process, from farming to distillation and hand-bottling. Potato varieties King Edward, Lady Claire, and Lady Rosetta are grown for use in the Chase Original Vodka ($36). They’re distilled five times at 96% ABV—three times through a copper pot still and twice through a 70-foot-tall copper column—before the resulting spirit is brought to proof using water drawn from a well on the property. The expression is used as the base in Chase’s Gin ($44), the brand’s flavored vodkas, and its liqueurs, including theChase Elderflower Liqueur ($33), which is made using pressed fresh elderflowers mixed with water and blended with sugar. The extract is infused into the potato vodka over- night, and after the blend undergoes hand-bottling, the result is a 40-proof fragrant liqueur that makes an excellent companion to Champagne and cocktails (it can also be sipped neat). In accordance with the full lineup of Chase Distillery products, the Elderflower Liqueur embodies the true essence of single-estate distilling. —Jesse Hom-Dawson

Chase Elderflower Liqueur is an aromatic phenomenon. Scents of jasmine, mandarin orange, plumeria, and lanolin are mesmerizing. Unctuous on the palate without being cloying, its flavors further inspire the elderflower essence as white peach, white tea, and pink grapefruit add complexity to a weighty mouthfeel. 93 —M.M.

october 2018 / / the tasting panel / / 85

TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 85 10/1/18 6:31 PM CATEGORY REPORT

Crafted with Care: Fruit-Forward Spirits: MOSSBURN WHISKY EDINBURGH GIN Established in 1992, Mossburn LIQUEURS Distillers and Blenders has emerged as an esteemed ambas- Edinburgh Gin’s Scottish sador of Scottish terroir in the heritage has always embraced world of whisky as it produces innovation, and its new category its awarded range of blended of gin liqueurs proves its brand and single-malt Scotch for of experimentation is clearly worldwide consumers. a hit: The Rhubarb & Ginger For the Signature Cask Series Liqueur currently sits in on the blended side of its portfo- the number-two spot lio, Mossburn Island Blended on Amazon UK’s list of Malt Scotch Whisky ($50) and bestsellers in the Beer, Wine Mossburn Speyside Blended & Spirits category. Malt Scotch Whisky ($40) aim Made with a gin base to showcase Scotland regional and real fruit, the trio malts without the use of artificial of liqueurs—Rhubarb & coloring or chill filtration as they Ginger, Raspberry, and mature under the influence of three different cask woods. Elderflower—hit the U.S. Aged in American oak prior to initial blending, both market in January 2018. expressions undergo a second period of maturation in Bottled at 20% ABV, they custom-made Mossburn Casks with certain specifications can be added to any cocktail for each blend: Cask Bill #1 for the Island (using staves program that emphasizes flavor and speed. from first-fill bourbon barrels) and Cask Bill #2 for the Raspberries picked at peak ripeness at a Speyside (using staves from first-fill Oloroso Sherry family-owned farm in Alyth, Blairgowrie, are butts). The former, with its peated whisky–inspired signa- infused into the classic Edinburgh Gin along ture smokiness infused with clove and spice at 46% ABV, with sugar to produce has a slightly tannic nature that mellows on the peppery, the Raspberry Liqueur. fruity, and fiery finish. Other signature botani- The Speyside blend, meanwhile, emulates the region’s cals present include characteristic flavors of spice, honey, and floral-tinged orange peel, mulber- nuttiness courtesy of mature whiskies from several ries, pine buds, and Speyside distilleries. —Kate Newton lemongrass. The aromatic Mossburn Speyside Blended Malt Scotch Elderflower Whisky Nuts, oatmeal, honeysuckle, and Liqueur, meanwhile, peach perfume this exquisite Scotch. On exchanges the the palate, heather and toffee warm the Raspberry’s fruity back of the tongue while dots of white profile for a floral, pepper tingle on the tip. At 92 proof, honeyed bouquet the heat intensifies and then quickly with flavor imparted dissipates, leaving honeyed chamomile, by freshly-picked hazelnut, and creamed corn in its path. It’s elderflowers. It shows subtle citrus notes and tempered with peach and apricot on the hints of pear and peach. refined finish.94 —M.M. Warmth and spice come through in the Rhubarb & Ginger Liqueur, which melds Mossburn Island Blended Malt Scotch Oriental ginger and freshly-picked rhubarb—a Whisky Smoky and sensual on the nose, this heady staple in Scotland. Its bright sweetness and 92-proofer goes headlong into a peaty palate. Comforted tangy-citrus notes complement cocktails that with butterscotch and seasoned with dill and black pepper, bring flavors like candied ginger, lemongrass, woodsy notes coat apricot for a layered spirit. 95 —M.M. and cardamom to the forefront. —Kate Newton

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TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 86 10/1/18 6:31 PM ON THE VINE

: A Well-Earned Renaissance ZINFANDEL ADVOCATES CELEBRATE THE PROLIFIC GRAPE IN SONOMA COUNTY

by Christopher Sawyer / photos by Kim Sayre

of a wide range of emerging styles. In hindsight, it seemed rather More approachable, fruit-forward, fitting that this was the last major ZAP and food-friendly than the powerful, event California wine legend Kent jammy, Port-like renditions popular Rosenblum, one of the organization’s 15 years ago, these provocative wines founding members, attended before he capture the real personality of the died in early September. After all, this vineyards while keeping their alcohol is the same county where Rosenblum level and oak influence in check. For and his wife Kathy purchased their example, while serving the new release family’s first vineyard in 1980, but it’s of the Dry Creek Vineyard’s 2015 Old also where he and winemaking partner Vine Zinfandel from Dry Creek Valley Jeff Cohn helped lead the modern ($35), winemaker Tim Bell said he California Zinfandel movement with a aspired to make “a more voluptuous series of award-winning releases. style that’s very user-friendly.” Other great values in the ripe and spicy cat- Dave Keough of Cline Cellars is ready egory included the Kunde 2016 Estate and waiting to serve the next sip of from Sonoma Valley ($22); the Miro Cline Zinfandel. 2015 Gaddis Vineyard Old Vines ($26); the Pedroncelli 2016 Mother Clone ($19); the Armida 2016 Poizin ($25); and f good times come to those who the Angry Bunch 2015 ($25). wait, it seems that time has indeed Past the consistently reliable gems Iarrived for fans of flavorful red wines, from Ridge, Ravenswood, Seghesio, thanks to the diverse profiles being and other long-time favorites, this made with Zinfandel. year’s event also featured some refresh- The legendary red grape, which ing debuts: the BACA 2016 Tug O’War originally put California on the world Zinfandel, crafted by next-gen trailblaz- The new 2015 release of the Angry wine map before Prohibition, arrived ers Jennifer Brown and Alison Frichtl Bunch Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel is a in Sonoma County in the 1850s. It Hollister; ex-Turley winemaker Ehren joint project of winemaker Tom Hinde miraculously reappeared in pink form in Jordan’s return with Day Zinfandel; and Palm Bay Imports. the 1970s before being rediscovered by a and the first ZAP showing of the new breed of winemakers a decade later. Seawolf Zinfandel, made by husband- In August, ambitious bottlings made and-wife team Jesse Hall and Emma I couldn’t help but notice the big with this world-class grape were Kudritzki Hall. smile on Rosenblum’s face when he celebrated at Zinfandel: Stories from There were also plenty of flavorful poured the new 2016 Alegria Vineyard Sonoma County, an innovative regional “field-blend” renderings from Russian Zinfandel, which his daughter Shauna event organized by the Zinfandel River Valley, including the genuine Rosenblum made for the family’s Advocates & Producers (ZAP) at Cline gnarly-vine flavors of the Limerick Alameda-based brand, Rock Wall Wine Cellars in Sonoma. In addition to Lane 2016 1910 Block ($56); the spicy Company. It was a passing of the baton providing an opportunity to taste new and robust Martinelli 2016 Giuseppe & to the next generation made all the releases from the well-respected 2015, Luisa ($58); and three special vineyard more poignant considering everything 2016, and 2017 vintages, this year’s spir- designates from Mike Officer and the he did for the grape throughout his ited event was fueled by the inclusion team at Carlisle Winery ($47 each). storied career.

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TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 87 10/1/18 6:31 PM FROZEN COCKTAILS NEW KID ON THE

elvin Slush Co. is continuing its quest to KELVIN SLUSH CO. UNVEILS A NEW simplify the art of frozen cocktails with the Kseventh addition to its organic portfolio. The FLAVOR IN ITS LINEUP OF ORGANIC company first experienced success several years FROZEN COCKTAIL MIXES ago with its frozen cocktail mixes, and co-founders Zack Silverman and Alex Rein now feature the following flavors in their brand’s lineup: Frosé, Citrus, by Madelyn Gagnon Piña Colada, Margarita, Ginger, Tea, and the new Frosé Blanc. In developing this innovative release, Silverman and Rein opted to return to their familiar frosé roots. After experimenting with various mixes, they landed on Frosé Blanc, which “is to white wine what Frosé is to rosé wine,” Silverman says. Appealing toBlanc the distinct tropical-fruit notes often found in New World white varieties, Frosé Blanc features hints of guava, passionfruit, and citrus, enabling it to pair particularly well with crisp and dry white-wine varieties like Sauvignon Blanc.

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TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 88 10/1/18 6:31 PM According to Silverman, he and Rein wanted the new flavor to appeal to wine and cocktail lovers alike while contributing to the low-ABV cocktail trend gaining ground in bars and restaurants across the country. But while frozen wine cocktails may have made an appearance on nearly Frosé Blanc is every summer beverage menu—or even year-round in sunny Kelvin Slush’s locations like Florida and California—they’re not all created latest frozen equal. By striving to make the cocktail-making process cocktail mix essentially foolproof for bartenders and mixologists, Kelvin flavor. Slush Co. distinguished itself as a pioneer in the frozen cocktail mix category with its quality of ingredients, versatile flavors, and ease of execution. “We take the guesswork out of making great-tasting, innovative signature frozen cocktails for restaurants and bars to serve that are perfect every time,” Silverman explains. In addition to being the first and only USDA Certified Blanc Organic mixes in their category, all seven Kelvin Slush Co.

All of Kelvin Slush’s offerings are USDA Certified Organic, vegan, gluten-free, and kosher.

flavors are also non-GMO, vegan, gluten-free, and kosher. trends in food and beverage.” “Frozen cocktails resonate Their carefully selected ingredients result in drinks that perfectly with our guests here in sunny south Florida,” he aren’t your typical “fruity cocktails,” Silverman says, instead adds. “We’re thrilled to be the first venue to serve Frosé producing well-balanced beverages with a finely tuned ratio Blanc, which has become a fan favorite on our property.” of sugar to alcohol. Most importantly, Kelvin Slush mixes While Kelvin Slush Co. has maintained a focus on wholesale are designed to help cocktails freeze with the proper texture distribution, at-home consumers seeking to craft their own and flavor—an all-too-common challenge for the category— frozen cocktails can find the full portfolio on Amazon in while preserving the integrity of the drink’s wine base at 64-ounce bottles. Kelvin Slush Co.’s Frosé Blanc cocktail mix cold temperatures. “Kelvin Slush Co. mix takes care of all the can be used in any non-carbonated frozen-beverage, slush, or science so you don’t have to worry,” Silverman says. granita machine by combining the following ingredients: one The company has come a long way since its humble bottle of Kelvin Organic Frosé Blanc mix, four bottles of white beginnings as a slushie truck on the streets of Brooklyn, New wine, ½ liter of gin or vodka, and 1½ gallons of water. York. As it marks the release of Frosé Blanc, Kelvin Slush Co. According to Silverman, popular variations include “the can be found at bars and hotels across the United States and Freezling” made with Reisling wine or the Pinot Grigio– Canada, with the new flavor now featured on menus at The based “Pinot Freezio,” but the mix also shines in Aperol Standard and the Generator hotels in Miami Beach, Florida; Spritzes or Bellinis. For at-home mixologists, a blender is a The Diplomat Beach Resort in Hollywood, Florida; and fitting substitute for a slush machine. popular New York City bar The Bonnie. According to Francis Lake, Diplomat Beach’s Resort Director of Restaurants and For more information, visit kelvinslush.com. Bars, his team “is constantly on the lookout for emerging

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TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 89 10/1/18 6:31 PM moment while considering their humble beginnings and hopeful future. And they’ll celebrate the rock steady foundation of Napa Valley, which has SAVE THE DATE! allowed us to dig in our heels while looking at the stars for over 130 years.

Fourth Annual We’ll share time with Master Sommeliers, Masters of Wine, authors, scientists, top vintners, and specialists from around the country, with excellent wines from around the world. After hearing from myriad experts—some with decades of experience and success, and others who have caused more recent revolutions in the industry—you’ll be invigorated to map out your own path so you can enjoy the journey as well as the achievements. Just as the old woody roots of a grapevine settle deep in the rocks and soil to provide a constant source of water to the plant, the dedication At The Culinary Institute of America, to developing your identity and purpose as a we like to “dig in” in other ways too: with January 27–29, 2019 sommelier eventually becomes a constant source of inspiration to learn, discover, and continue delicious meals, exciting food CIA at Copia to grow your career. and beverage interludes, professional kitchens, and world class chefs Downtown Napa The CIA’s dedication to every aspect of the food who make sure you understand the and beverage industry has been inspiring us for decades to create professional development meaning of gastronomical nirvana. opportunities, not only for our graduates but for all our constituents and partners. The Sommelier Be sure to check out our website (ciaatcopia.com) Summit is no exception. During this fast-paced, and follow us on social media (@ciaatcopia) for multifaceted summit, we provide networking, special updates about summit speakers, sponsors, skill-building, and sensory training to both new and sessions, and tastings. We hope you can join us for up-and-coming wine and beverage professionals. what is sure to be a fun, productive start to 2019, This showcases what the CIA does best: teaching and a true lesson in every glass. and learning, tasting and savoring, meeting new people and seeing old friends—all in the spirit of enjoying the pleasures of the table. Join beverage industry experts and fellow up-and-coming This year, we look inward and drill down to some professionals for exciting panel of the ways we can express who we are and what we value in the world of wine, beverage, and discussions, seminars, tastings, hospitality. During the 2019 CIA Sommelier Summit, and more. our speakers, educators, sponsors, and mentors will help you discover new insights in a glass of Deepen your knowledge, wine without having to “nail it” every time. They’ll create connections, and take coach you on how to use your unique skills and personality to perfect your communication, track your career to the next level. restaurant industry trends, and taste wines in the

ciasommeliersummit.com

is a proud media sponsor of the CIA Sommelier Summit. 4TH ANNUAL CIA SOMMELIER SUMMIT | JANUARY 27-29, 2019 | ciasommeliersummit.com

TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 90 10/1/18 6:31 PM moment while considering their humble beginnings and hopeful future. And they’ll celebrate the rock steady foundation of Napa Valley, which has SAVE THE DATE! allowed us to dig in our heels while looking at the stars for over 130 years.

is a proud media sponsor of the CIA Sommelier Summit. 4TH ANNUAL CIA SOMMELIER SUMMIT | JANUARY 27-29, 2019 | ciasommeliersummit.com

TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 91 10/1/18 6:31 PM WOMEN IN THE INDUSTRY

Lori Raya, President for the Southwest division of Albertsons, Safeway, and Vons; Carolyn Wente, fourth-generation winegrower and CEO of Wente Family Ladies Estates; and Leslie Frank, proprietor of Who Frank Family Vineyards. Powerlunch SOUTHERN GLAZER’S WINES AND SPIRITS OF ARIZONA GATHERS THE INDUSTRY’S TOP FEMALE LEADERS FOR WOMEN EMPOWERED

by Rachel Burkons photos by Grace Stufkosky

rom young, bright-eyed brand reps new to the industry to seasoned somms, buyers, Fand sales managers with years of experience, the crowd recently gathered for a tasting and luncheon at Sanctuary Camelback Mountain resort in Scottsdale, Arizona, had at least one thing in common: They were all women. In late August, Southern Glazer’s Wines and Spirits of Arizona gathered this group to hear stories and advice from three powerful executives in the wine and spirits industry: Carolyn Wente, fourth-generation winegrower and CEO of Wente Family Estates; Leslie Frank, proprietor of Frank Family Vineyards; and Lori Raya, President for the Southwest division of Albertsons, Safeway, and Vons. Each speaker shared the story of their respective journey to their current positions and the mentors, opportunities, and roadblocks they encountered along the way before the floor was opened up for a question-and-answer period. While each woman’s path to success was mark- edly different, they shared a few commonalities: supportive friends, families, and partners; lots and lots of hard work; and believing in themselves while paving the way for their peers, too. “When you get a seat at the table, make room for other women,” Frank said. So, ladies (and gentle- men!), pull up a chair and read on to see how this influential trio have made a name for themselves in the industry.

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TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 92 10/1/18 6:31 PM CAROLYN WENTE, LORI RAYA, CEO of Wente Family Estates President of the Southwest Division Growing up in the fourth generation of a historic winemaking family for Albertsons, Safeway, and Vons might have made Wente’s path to the wine industry predestined, but as she “Thirty-one years ago, I started my recalled some of the challenges the family-owned and -operated winery career carrying out groceries,” Lori Raya faced in the early part of her career, it’s obvious her accolades have been said of her impressive rise through the hard-won. “I was a senior at Stanford when my father passed away at 49,” ranks, which ultimately resulted in her Carolyn told attendees. “Suddenly, my brothers and I had inherited the becoming the 120-year-old grocery chain’s winery and these vineyards, and we had an aha moment of realizing, ‘Here first female President in 2010. “You have to we are on our own.’” work really, really hard: I went to college Sizable estate taxes, an earthquake that damaged 90 percent of the on a sports scholarship but didn’t graduate winery’s steel tanks, and a 1970s boom in competing California wineries because I loved playing basketball more also served as early tribulations, but as Wente and her brothers found than I loved studying. I still do not have my their groove, Wente Family Estates and the family themselves emerged as degree today, but I have earned it through innovators. In addition to establishing several “lifestyle businesses” like a my career, and that’s the most important.” restaurant, summer concert series, and golf course, the company continu- Although she’s undoubtedly a true ously invested in its vineyard sites and facilities. self-starter, Raya made sure to mention the “Our greatest opportunity was to change and deal with those struggles,” mentors who have helped her profession- Wente explained. “We’re the perfect size to work with companies that are ally over the years. “You remember those innovators because we control everything from the ground up. We can people who help pull you up,” she said. apply that technology to enhance the wine quality, and that’s always going “It’s not always easy to see someone that to be number one for us.” you’ve mentored skyrocket past you, so I Number one, of course, after family: “I got here because of some very always make sure to tell people how much I supportive, cheerleading brothers,” Wente said. “We also worked long and appreciate them.” hard to identify our core values: respect, integrity, sustainability, and excel- As for personal advice, Raya touted the lence. I will continue to champion those values in my family’s business—I importance of continuous education. “I see that in our sixth generation, and I see that in many of you here, too. We never tried to be the smartest person in have four women in the next generation, and I have a pipeline of women the room—you never are!—but I also try leaders coming in!” to teach something to someone every day,” she said. The last kernel of knowledge she shared is a solid life lesson, not just work wisdom: “Take a different path. It’s never LESLIE FRANK, what you think it will be, so don’t be afraid Proprietor of Frank Family Vineyards to take that journey.” In addition to earning her an Emmy, Frank’s successful career in broad- cast journalism saw her cover everything from 9/11 to Hurricane Katrina before she leapt into the wine industry. Regarding her years of work in these “predominantly male” spheres, Frank lamented the fact that “only 15 percent of the top winemakers and only 25 percent of people who present the evening news are women.” Frank’s story proves the key to her success was laid not only by hard work, but a willingness to take risks. After leaving home at 17 to attend journalism school, she cut her teeth on the Canadian media circuit before setting her sites on a station in Seattle. She ultimately landed in Los Angeles, persevering through pay gap–related sexism and visa troubles along the way. While Frank was in the midst of covering the Michael Jackson trial, fate intervened one day at the bar in Napa Valley’s Bouchon Bistro, where she The only man in the room during the met her future husband, Rich, over a bottle of Flowers 2004 Pinot Noir. luncheon was Michael Jahn, Executive Vice Fast-forward a few years, and Frank found herself with a new career at President of Southern Glazer’s of Arizona. Frank Family Vineyards. While she credits her husband for being “a very He served as emcee for the day, singing supportive man who recognizes my abilities and talents,” Frank says she the praises not only of the attendees in the was conscious from the get-go of not being “looked at as Rich Frank’s wife.” room, but the “talented women” across the “I thought, ‘What could I contribute to the business that will get people entire industry who don't always get the to look at me as an individual?’ So I took what I knew best—people and credit they deserve. “I think it’s a shame storytelling—and applied that to the brand,” she continued. “I went to UC that we even have to do this,” he said of Davis, took some wine-management courses and some classes at Napa the notion that separate events need to be Wine Academy, and I’m now managing our staff. Our assistant winemaker held for female empowerment when gender is a woman, our enologist is a woman, our tasting room manager is a equality should be permanently ingrained at woman, and our CFO is a woman. Two key people in our production are all levels of the industry's culture. women, and trust me, they can drive a forklift better than anyone!”

october 2018 / the tasting panel / 93

TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 93 10/1/18 6:31 PM TAKING INVENTORY WITH . . .

Hidden in the vast sprawl of Dallas, Texas, a tiny, 600-square-foot bar known as Atwater Alley is a ALEX mystery to many. But can the venue even be considered a full-fledged bar? “I don’t label it as a cocktail bar or as a mixology place. It’s really just a cool, small FLETCHER bar with a great atmosphere,” says Beverage Director Alex Fletcher. Fletcher is no newcomer to the Dallas cocktail BEVERAGE DIRECTOR FOR scene. With seven years of beverage-directing ATWATER ALLEY IN experience honed at spots across the city, he built the program at Atwater Alley proudly from scratch DALLAS, TX with a vision born out of an unfinished back storage room left behind by the previous owners. “It was by Madelyn Gagnon untouched and had so much potential just to be a really cool little cocktail bar that was unassuming from the outside and beautiful on the inside,” Fletcher says of the space. After it was cleaned up and filled out with booths and decor, the bar came alive with its signature dark-and-sultry mystique. To help Atwater Alley stand out from the growing pack of “secret” bars found across the country, Fletcher says his staff focuses on “styled-up” cocktails on a more free-form menu rather than featuring a seasonal beverage list like many other PHOTO COURTESY OF ATWATER ALLEY OF ATWATER COURTESY PHOTO Dallas mainstays. Fletcher’s team convenes weekly to discuss cocktail ideas and seasonal ingredients, which influence each new rendition of the classic drinks on the bar’s list. For example, if peaches are in season, the team may decide to serve up a peach bourbon sour for all customers simply ordering a “sour”; this ever-evolving menu, Fletcher explains, keeps customers on their toes. Fletcher currently serves as the Beverage Director for ten bars and restaurants across Dallas, and as an expert on the city’s cocktail scene, he’s particularly equipped to spot emerging trends. “I predict rum is going to be our next big explosion in the city,” he says, noting the appeal of its accessibility, versatility, and cost. Fletcher’s own drink of choice is an age-old favorite: a Sazerac with one part rye, one part Cognac, four dashes of Peychaud’s Bitters, citrus oils, a quarter- ounce of simple syrup, and a barspoon of absinthe. “It’s one of those drinks that if you get any one of the ingredients out of whack, it can go bad really quick,” Fletcher says. THE “5” LIST ALEX FLETCHER’S TOP FIVE FAVES: ALEX FLETCHER’S TOP FIVE PET PEEVES:

A perfectly The calm at the When a Watching Learning Uncared-for Dry-ice Being asked Cocky [The Muppet paired glass of end of a busy guest gets staff grow and something citrus. cocktails. if this is my bartenders. show] Fraggle wine. night. an obscure prosper. new. “real” job. Rock . . . God, reference on a I hate Fraggle menu. Rock.

94 / the tasting panel / october 2018

TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 94 10/1/18 6:31 PM TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 95 10/1/18 6:31 PM TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 96 10/1/18 6:31 PM THE TASTING PANEL MAGAZINE • OCTOBER 2018 10/1/18 6:31 PM TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 97 Spook- SPOOK- tacular TACULAR Spirits Spirits JOIN THE TASTING PANEL AS WE HOCUS- FOCUS ON SOME OF OUR FAVORITE BROWN AND FLAVORED SPIRITS bab

TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 98 10/1/18 6:31 PM SPOOK- SpiritsTACULAR

TP1018_068-96_KNV5.indd 99 10/1/18 6:31 PM