June 2019 No

C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS JUNE 2019 NO. 285 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

ANTIGUA CLASSICS See story on page 14 JAN HEIN JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3

KEN DYER Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer Look Out for...... …33 ...... 33 Meridian Passage ...... 34 Readers’ Forum ...... 35 Calendar of Events .....36 Caribbean Market Place ...... 38 Island Poets ...... Classified Ads 38 ...... 38 Advertisers Index [email protected] Advertising & Administration...Shellese Craigg [email protected] ! ISSN 1605 - 1998 http://bit.ly/1fMC2Oy Regatta 2019 on page 14 Compass DEPARTMENTS is available online. But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters CC covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from , We charter in the BVI and the Grenadines frequently and — A Haan We LOVE the welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. feel part of the local sailing community when we pick it up locally. Please add me to your e-mail notification list when each new is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., The Valley, P.O. Box 727, is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., The near you! Compass See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions We support free speech! Publishing Ltd. accepts responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass submissions may be edited for length and clarity. no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and copy or transmission of this publication, ©2018 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore. Columbia Caribbean Compass Info & Updates ...... 4Info & Updates ...... 8Business Briefs Regatta News...... 10 ...... 26 The Caribbean Sky ...... Seaboard Birds 28 ...... 29 Meet Marine Life ...... 30Cooking with Cruisers ...... 32 Book Reviews Publisher...... Tom Hopman [email protected] Editor...... Sally Erdle [email protected] Assistant Editor...... Tad Richards Caribbean Compass Anguilla, British West Indies. www.caribbeancompass.com Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, [email protected],

CHELSEA PYNE Caribbean Compass Santa Marta Cartagena nd the nd ﬁ Going to the Cats ...... Two hulls tip the scales 24 St. Barts to St. Barts Puerto Rico ...... 22 …with nobody aboard

ERIN CAREY ERIN CAREY Bocas del Toro JUNE 2019 • NUMBER 285 JUNE 2019 • NUMBER Click Google Map link to www.caribbeancompass.com The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore Monthly Look at Sea The Caribbean’s Still rebuilding, still beautiful ..Still rebuilding, still beautiful 19 Barbuda’s Blues Jamaica Farewell ...... Last stop, Negril 18 Antigua High ...... 16Hike to Shirley Heights a 2014 replica of the famous W Starling Burgess-designed original. See her report on Antigua Classic Yacht W Starling Burgess-designed original. See her report on Antigua Classic Yacht a 2014 replica of the famous On the cover: Jan Hein shot the racing in the Classic Schooner Class aboard the 141-foot schooner On the cover: Jan Hein shot the racing in JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 heard anoiseondeck.Whenhewentuptoinvestigate,wasfatallyshot. Blas) areaofPanama. anchored nearDadNaggweDubbirislandinthenormallypeacefulGunaYala(San killed byintrudersaboardhis65-footAstrolabecustomtrawler, &Updates Info outboard engine. 11-year-old twinsinthecabin,whileintrudersmadeoffwitha15-horsepower ensuing tussle,hiswife,Derryn,wasinjuredbutmanagedtolockherselfandtheir Alan isunderstoodtohavebeensleepingbelowdeckwithhisfamilywhenhe On thenightofMay2nd,60-year-oldNewZealanderAlanCulverwellwasshotand Charges MadeinGunaYalaYachtDeath is relativelyrareinGunaYala Violent crimeagainstvisitors SABORE and technologicallyadvancedsailspossible. Built bysailmakersdedicatedtobuildingthefinest,mostdurable Aqua Lobo www.yachtshotsbvi.com -PRIVILEGE585 ,

In the number ofchallenges.” times. Ihavethesoulofasportsmanandamusingmyretirementtosetmyself “Having livedforseveralyearsonmyyacht,IhavecrossedtheAtlantic during thevoyage. the useofsailoroars,after128daysatsea.Hecelebratedhis72ndbirthday arrived atStatiaintheEasternCaribbean,a2,930-milejourneywithout left onDecember26th,2018fromtheislandofElHierroinCanariesand long andseven-foot-widebarrelbuiltfromreinforcedplywood.TheFrenchman dents arealsomembersoftheBoys&GirlsClubSt.ThomasandJohn. sailing, smallboathandlingandoperationskills,scubadiving.CurrentMVPstu- the marine,hospitalityandtourismindustries.MVPprogramsincludelearn-to-swim, is avocationalinstitutionthatprovidesUSVirginIslandsyouthwithcareerpathinto Maria in2017. Caribbean ReliefFundfollowingthedevastationcausedbyhurricanesIrmaand zation’s investors,friends,customersandpartnerscreatedtheNYCEastern and AmericanYachtHarbormarinasonSt.Thomas. is onewithwhichMukamalfamiliar,asIGYmanagesbothYachtHavenGrand his father’sdedicationtotheVirginIslands’communityanditsyouth.TheUSterritory Tom Mukamal,IGY’sCEO,onaplane.AconversationensuedandMarcspokeof fishing captain. ings,” saysJimmyLoveland,MVPprogramdirectorandlong-timeprofessionalsports PADI divecertification,openingtheireyesandmindstounderwatersurround- Ltd. (IGY). Inc., foundedandfundedbyIslandCapitalGroup,LLCGlobalYachting, tion thankstoadonationofUS$15,000fromtheNYCEasternCaribbeanReliefFund, Vocational Program(MVP)cannowcontinueandadvancetheirmarineeduca- connection withthecasebutitisnotclearifhetobechargedmurder. vated homicideandrobbery.Thethirdsuspect,aminor,alsoappearedincourt tors tojustice.LeandroHerreraandAvelinoArosemenawerechargedwithaggra- ogized totheCulverwellfamilyonlocaltelevisionandvowedbringperpetra- 4th. ThearrestscameafterPanama’sPresidentJuanCarlosVarelahadearlierapol- yacht rally. bound forFrenchPolynesialatelastmonthaspartofthePacificPuddleJump before continuingonwardtoNewZealand.ThefamilywasdueleavePanama recently spenttimeatBocasdelToro,andwasonitswaytothePanamaCanal Before hesetoutonhisvoyage,theformermilitaryparatroopertoldlocalmedia, Jean-Jacques SavinrecentlydriftedacrosstheAtlanticOceaninaten-foot- A BarrelofFun? Visit www.facebook.com/marinevocationalprogamformoreinformation. The MVPProgram,startedin2007andlocally-registeredasanot-for-profit2017, Island CapitalGroup,LLCandGlobalYachting,Ltd.,alongwiththeorgani- Serendipity ledtothisvaluabledonation.Loveland’sson,Marc,recentlysatnext “This generousdonationwillenableustoprovideMVPstudentswiththeirbasic Over adozenUSVirginIslands’studentmembersofthenonprofitMarine IGY HelpsUSVIMarineVocationalProgram Three peopleweresoonarrestedandmadeafirstappearanceincourtonMay The familyhadreportedlyspenttwoyearscruisingintheCaribbean, True BlueStGeorge Turbulence Sails Grenada Roseau Dominica MarineCenter Dominica Kapiteinsweg #4 Zeilmakerij Harms Curacao Puntaarenos Stellar Sails Costa Rica Jolly Harbour Star Marine Antigua &Barbuda [email protected] Tel: (284)4942569 Road Town,Tortola Road ReefMarina Doyle SailmakersBVI,Ltd British VirginIslands www. Rodney Bay Rodney BaySails St Lucia Fajardo, PuertoRico Atlantic Canvas&Sail Puerto Rico Panama City Regency Marine Panama 30 BldAllegre Voilerie DuMarin Martinique Kingston PJG Jamaica * DacronandHydraNet only DOYLECARIBBEAN

[email protected] Tel: (246)4234600 St Philip Six Crossroads Doyle OffshoreSails,Ltd Barbados Christiansted Wilsons' CruzanCanvas USVI StCroix Chaguaramas AMD Trinidad &Tobago Blue Lagoon Barefoot YachtCharters St. Vincent * —Continued onnextpage .com JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 —Continued on next page —Continued Visit www.facebook.com/BOUTESA for updates. Visit www.facebook.com/BOUTESA Program for St. Barths Youth Creative Boost a process Koppstein started late Captain Michael in 2015 from the A phone call ing the staff of the Scubaqua Dive Center, who helped him to clear in, and the Old in, and him to clear helped Center, who Dive the Scubaqua staff of ing the a French there, a few days room. After sea-view a which provided hotel, Gin House him to Martinique. brought tugboat 16,000 Euro benefit by Youth Sailing Programme St. Barths Yacht Club that saw the Regatta. 2019 St. Barths Bucket of posters for the from the sale For Jean-Jacques Savin in his barrel, 23 miles per day was about average Continued from previous page previous page from Continued As he drifted across the Atlantic, Savin dropped markers for the international Joint for the international markers dropped Savin the Atlantic, drifted across As he him a Dutch oil tanker picked make landfall, but sure where he would He wasn’t — ocean- to help its Meteorology & Marine Oceanography for Commission Technical a book worked on the journey, the adventurer study currents. During ographers this year. plans to publish later experience, which he about the Dutch island them to the tiny waters and delivered up in Caribbean and the barrel many, includ- was welcomed by Statia. In Statia he better known as of St. Eustatius, JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 client, RoyalHuisman,wassupportingtheirclient’syacht — our Bucket Regatta,whichcommissionedOwenstodesignasetofpostersbasedon and wedesignedthecrewT-shirtsforevent.Thedesignwastakenupby and beyond.” to Owensagainseewhatwecandocontinuethisdesignthemefornextyear grams arefocusedonthekidsanditsbudgetisalwaystight.Theywereveryexcited. Program. TheSt.BarthsYachtClubisnotatypicalyachtclub.Itsmembershipandpro- year. The2019posterwasahitbeyondallexpectations! ly pleasedthattheuptakefromsomanypeopleresultedinsuchabigresultthis becoming synonymouswiththeSt.BarthsBucketRegattabrandstyle,wewerereal- porary artgallerywiththeproceedsgoingtoSBYCYouthSailingProgram. versary event,300wereprintedand100soldthroughtheSpaceSBHcontem- 200 wereprintedasmementosforBucketparticipants.Thenextyear,the30thanni- have becomequitecollectableitems.” each yeartherewouldbeacomplementaryposter.Theyweregreatsuccessand Andy Smith,creativeheadofOwenSuperyachtMarketingintheUKexplains:“Our “We areverythankfultoallthosewhosupportedagreatcause.Wewillbetalking “At 80Euroeach,wewereabletocommit16,000theSBYCYouthSailing Event DirectorPeterCraigsays,“WiththeposterseriesdesignedbyAndyatOwens Initially, 2016wasthefirstyearofprinting,featuringfamousSt.Barthsairport; Continued frompreviouspage Meteor Marine PowerServices British VirginIslands Marine Maintenance design.Iproducedillustrationsforaseriescovering2016to2019,so +596-596-787-196 +590-590-907-137 Palm TreeMarine [email protected] CRC Engines& Grenada Marine Inboard Diesel 268-460-1850 473-443-7256 284-542-2413 284-499-7128 473- Guadaloupe Services Ltd. Fred Marine Martinique Fabricating Grenada Antigua Service 443-1667 High Reliability,AmazingDurabilityandMaintenance Simplicitycombineto easy toseewhywithNorthernLightsgenerators, yes,youcanhaveitall. super-silent capabilityandaregion-wideCaribbean servicenetwork,it’s ensure youronboardpowerrequirementsare alwaysmet.Coupledwith 284-494-2830 [email protected] magazine’ of your to beapart ‘I’m honored www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com

Meteor JOHN DUKE KISCH DUKE JOHN of article ineveryissue and proofreadevery Elaine copy-edited the rareholidayoff, Ollivierre. Withonly Assistant EditorElaine farewell toretiring we wishaveryfond Caribbean Compass 2019 issueof Change ofWatch Special Needs,asSt. for Childrenwith the SunshineSchool Board ofDirectorsat has servedonthe High School,shealso Bequia Community then principalatthe Science teacherand former Mathsand 200 monthlyissues.A May 2019—nearly February 2003and With this,theJune Compass Crew atthe2015regatta Compass between , the 1960s,hewasaregularcontributortosatiricalmagazine University, theStateUniversityofNewYorkatPaltzandMaristCollege.During sition andcreativewritingatseveralinstitutionsintheUS,includingWinonaState Master’s degreefromtheIowaWriters’Workshopandhastaughtliterature,compo- Compass Officer forExamsintheSt.Vincent&GrenadinesMinistryofEducation.Shetells Secretary oftheBequiaSailingClub.In2013ElaineretiredasSeniorEducation Hands AcrosstheSea,andasSecretaryofBequiaHeritageFoundation Vincent &theGrenadinesCountryCoordinatorforinternationalliteracyproject month’s Indian Riveronpage10wastakenbyGlenTuttle. Sandy Islandonpage5,topleft,wastakenbyDavonBaker.Thelowerphotoof warm welcomeaboard! experience. I’mhonoredtobeapartofyourmagazine.” appreciate whattheyhavetooffer.Thisisafascinatinganduniquecopyediting ers whohaveauthenticvoicesthatcancommunicatewithyourreadership,andI medieval Frenchromances. continuing historyofjazzinthe1950sand1960s,twolongpoemsadaptedfrom then, hehaspublished18novelsand16worksofnonfiction.Heiscurrentlywritinga Taking overtheAssistantEditor’swatchfromElaineisTadRichards.holdsa The articleonsolarcookingaboardannouncedforthisissuewillappearinnext In lastmonth’sissueof Department ofCorrections Please jointheCompassCrewinwishingElainearelaxingretirementandTad Tad says,“ Compass. readers,“Nowit’stimetoREALLYretire!” With Northern Compass YES! You generators have itall Thesunwillstillbeshining! hasdoneaterrificjobofputtingtogethercollectionwrit- Lights Compass , wegottwophotocreditswrong.Theof can

+590-590-870-373 US VirginIslands Caraibes Diesel Coral BayMarine It’s timetoreallyretire!’ 868-634-4272 340-774-1679 340-776-6665 Import Supply ElectricsLtd +1-721-544- Electec, NV St Maarten St Martin Services Dockyard 758-450- Trinidad St Lucia Marintek 2051 0552 The Realist. Since JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 ed ed 90+ Days $/Ft/Day $/Ft/day 30-89 Days $/Ft/Day 7-29 Days7-29 1-6 Days $/Ft/Day * Rates apply 1st June 2019 – 30th November 2019 and rates are quoted in US$ *The Seasonal rate is available to vessels booking and paying for 90 days or more in advance. 32 $0.90 $0.81 $0.48 $0.43 75 $1.56 $1.40 $0.76 $0.71 65 $1.51 $1.36 $0.75 $0.70 60 $1.36 $1.22 $0.68 $0.63 50 $1.25 $1.13 $0.62 $0.57 80 $1.71 $1.54 $0.92 $0.87 40 $1.15 $1.04 $0.57 $0.52 100 $1.76 $1.58 $0.94 $0.89 for monthly and seasonal stays otherwise a deposit of 10% of the value of the booking (Min US$100) applies. Up to: Up Size-Feet Daily Weekly Monthly Seasonal Terms and conditions apply. For yachts above 100 feet LOA, and for bookings of longer periods, please contact us for a a for us contact please periods, longer of bookings for and LOA, feet 100 above yachts For apply. conditions and Terms personalised quote. Multihulls are charged at 1.5 times the standard rate. A deposit of one month at the monthly rate is requir Stay longer, pay less pay Stay longer, or email: email: or +1 473 435 7432, 435 7432, 473 +1 Call: [email protected] www.cnmarinas.com/plm Anyone arriving in May and staying arriving in May staying and Anyone the end with us until of consecutively the off a 30% discount August will receive May. for daily rate standard and electricity— Water broadband — Free hour security— 24 restaurants and swimming pool — Bar, nearby facilities — Haul-out and technical air links — Excellent Port Louis Marina provides a safe, Port Louis Marina a safe, provides secure berth with all the amenities you expectwould from a full-service marina Camperrun by & Nicholsons. JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 about TheMultihullCompany. Richard Szyjan’s page 10 included circumnavigatingBequia( the BequiaEasterRegattaon Chrystal, theTMCbrokersinGrenada.TheyspentpastEasterweekendsailing yacht brokerage,is“Bysailors,forsailors”.ThisprovestobetrueChrisand Marta, plustouristicsites,maps,newsofeventsandmore. com.co —whereyoucanfindalltheinformationneedaboutMarinaSanta BUSINESS BRIEFS Visit https://multihullcompany.comformoreinformation Being ayachtbrokerissomuchmorethansellingboats! Chrystal Youngreports:ThemottoofMultihullCompany(TMC),aninternational TMC Brokers,Grenada:MoreThanSellingBoats! For moreinformationonMarinaSantaMartaseeadpage5. Colombia’s MarinaSantaMartahasanewwebsite—www.marinasantamarta. New WebsiteforColombia’sMarinaSantaMarta ). Dogsmile Category 5 endedupsecondbehindanotherGrenada-basedboat, —aseriouscontender. Dogsmile see fullreportinthismonth’sRegattaNews,

. Itwasabouncy,funregattathat KENMORE HENVILLE / WWW.BEQUIAPTOTOACTION.COM / HENVILLE KENMORE (8:30 island vibewithhighceilingsandcolorsoftheseathroughout. a gorgeousviewofPetitCalivignyBay.Therenovatedspacehasfreshtropical- rebranded restaurantIslandFeverTropicalTavern.Thecasualseafrontoffers Resort &MarinainGrenada.Thenewlaid-backvibeofthepropertyfeatures Barbecue (12:00to6:00 with classicandmodernrum-gin-basedcocktails.TheSaturdayPoolside ways. Thecraftcocktailsfeaturecreativetwistsonmojitosanddaiquiris,play influenced Caribbeanseafoodandcomfortfoodusinglocalingredientsincreative to conservetheenvironmentandimprovewelfareoflocalpeople.” ing thisvaluabletraditionandsupportingresponsible,sustainabletourism,westrive tourism hasastrongroletoplayinthelocaleconomy,’saysMonique.“Bypreserv- of Grenada’ssisterislandsPetiteMartiniqueandCarriacou.“Webelievethateco- who helpedconstructeachofourvessels,”saysDanny. experiences aremeaningfullyenhanced.Ourcaptainsalsotheskillfulcraftsmen knowledge oftheimportancetheseboatstoourpastandfuture,guests’ building tradition.“Becausemanyofourcrewareboatbuildersandhavefirst-hand son Callistus(Cal), hand-crafted 73-footschooner. authentic, time-honoredcruiseofbeautifulGrenadaonaclassic,immaculately savoir faire.Ascaptainsandco-owners,MoniqueDannyprovideguestsan Sailing ChartersandMoniqueMillsofMakingWavestoofferguestseco-savvy crafted woodenCarriacousailboats,sailedbytheboatbuilderswhobuiltthem. Jambalaya SailingChartersoffersexclusiveprivatechartersontraditional,hand- Jambalaya SailingCharterswiththepurchaseof73-footschooner lines togiveourclientsthebestfuelever. best pricesonflightsinandoutofPanama. days. WearealsoAirPanamaauthorizedagentsinBocasdelToroandcangetthe USA orPanamaCity,bycargoshiparrivingonceamonthFedExwithinseven over 600differentitemsofthebestbrands.Wecandeliveranymarineitemfrom products; electrical,plumbing,hydraulic,andmechanicalitems;muchmore— well-appointed poolarea. added features.Allmarina,villaandrestaurantguestsarewelcometousethe Island FeverTropicalTavernisopendailyandoffersacasuallypricedbreakfast Christine andDevinNelleshaverecentlytakenoverthehelmatLePhareBleuVilla It’s IslandFeveratLePhareBleu,Grenada! Monique andDannyshareacommonvisiontorevitalizetheboatbuildingindustry Built ontheshoresofCarriacouin2002bymasterboatbuilderAlwynEnoeandhis Jambalaya SailingChartersbringstogetherGrenadianDannyDonelanofSavvy Captains MoniqueMillsandDannyDonelanaredelightedtoannounce Introducing JambalayaSailingCharters,Grenada See adonpage26formoreinformationaboutBocasdelToroMarina. We justcompletedimportantmaintenanceonour9,500-gallonfueltankandfilter Luis Fabianreports:Ourmarinestorestocksdeckhardware;cleaningandpainting New atPanama’sBocasdelToroMarina For moreinformationvisitwww.lepharebleu.comandseeadonpage13. AM to10:30 AM ) andanall-daymenu(11:00 Jambalaya PM ) andSundayAllDayBreakfast(8:30 is charmingandcolorful,bornfrom200yearsofboat- AM to10:00 PM —Continued onnextpage ) featuringregionally AM to3:00 Jambalaya PM ) are . JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 The marina supplies fresh running water and 110/220/360V 60Hz electricity, satellite TV with security guards on duty 24 hours For a day. your convenience there are showers and ice machines available. Contact us by phone 588-0260 at +297 or visit our website: www.renaissancemarina.com Operating Hours: Mon - Sat, from 8am to 6pm Completely surrounded by nature, relax on your vessel or enjoy the amenities the Completely surrounded by nature, relax tropical paradise but the thought of hurri- If you’ve always dreamed of sailing in a Island Marina see ad on page 39. For more information on Red Frog Beach Red Frog Marina: Hurricane Season Hideaway Season Hurricane Marina: Red Frog of 68 by an archipelago surrounded Panama, side of Caribbean on the Situated a fair bit can produce abundance of rainforests humid climate and While the the peaceful Red Frog Beach Island Marina, an IGY Marina. Nestled between an IGY Marina. Nestled between the peaceful Red Frog Beach Island Marina, it is the perfect spot to berth your vessel mangroves and sheltered by the island, during hurricane season. and bars, sunny beaches, clear Red Frog Beach Resort has to offer. Restaurants dolphin sightings, salsa lessons… the waters to snorkel, scuba or surf, bird watching, activities really are endless. solution: Red Frog Beach Island Marina! canes held you back, there is a fantastic islands, beautiful beaches and natural mangroves, is where you will find the per- will find the you is where mangroves, and natural beaches beautiful islands, and thousands of tourists The islands attract season hideaway. fect hurricane of that offers an abundance unique ecosystem year to enjoy a boaters each attractions. activities and Central unlike her nature with no hurricanes, is blessed by of rain, Panama of in the archipelago south side of Isla Bastimentos neighbors. On the American you will find island of Isla Colon from the main Toro, 15 minutes away Bocas del Oranjestad is part of the Renaissance Aruba Resort and Casino and can accommodate more than 50 yachts. The Renaissance Marina, located in the heart of Located at 12° 31' 2.3124''Located N 70° at 12° 31' 2' 16.8'' Renaissance W, Marina is the island‘s most beautiful marina. It stretches over much of this picturesque waterfront community combining the largest entertainment and shopping facility in Aruba with the natural beauty of the Marina. I represent Marina Club de Pesca, the most tra- I represent Marina Club de Pesca, the most

Continued from previous page previous page from Continued Contact [email protected] for more information. Contact [email protected] for more Cartagena’s Marina Club de Pesca Joan MacMaster González reports: for more information. Visit www.clubdepescadecartagena.com Their Code of Conduct outlines conscientious, low-impact tourism, support of local support tourism, low-impact conscientious, outlines Code of Conduct Their communities. Jambalaya Sailing Charters operates according to Sailors for the Sea communities. Jambalaya Sailing Charters Green Boating Guidelines. in Cartagena, Colombia, five minutes by ditional and strategically located marina years of history, our marina has the experi- car from the historic downtown. With 80 motoryachts and megayachts. In our pet- ence and services available for sailboats, boats and their crews the following friendly facilities we have available for guests’ services, syncrolift for vessels, restau- services: showers and toilets, free WiFi, laundry rant, electricity (billing per kW) and fuel. — efforts, local conservation support for culture, of local appreciation and economy of the com- and wellbeing enhance the education in programs that participation and local for both the traveler components ocean-aware educational munity, and JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 techniques bycominginthirdplace.SummerJeanMortonandCansuKilicraced spinnaker-flying boats.RiccardoandTrystanfromAnguillashowedofftheirsailing in firstplace.Oscaralsowonthe“SpiritAward”forhissportsmanshipthisclass. Maarten sailorLoukaWilliamsracedagainstOscarRougterfromSt.Barth,whocame Anguilla, andFelixFargeJulesFortunatifromSt.Barth.IntheLaserPicoclass, lets. First,second,andthirdplacesintheSilverOptimistClasswenttoDejaCartyfrom Antonin tookhomethe“MostWorthyPerformanceTrophy”forhisninefirst-placebul- Christophe Maxorinsecondplace,withSt.MaartensailorEmmaLennoxthirdplace. over thetwodays. taste whatit’sliketoraceinaregattaforthefirsttime.Mostclassessailedtenraces raced intheGoldClass.ThelessexperiencedsailorscompetedSilverClassto compete inthreedifferentclassesofone-designracing. on DayOne,andconditionsimprovedTwo. The moderatetostrongwindsandchoppyseasprovideddemandingcircumstances Thornton Multi-ClassRegatta,heldonSimpsonBay,St.MaartenApril6thand7th. REGATTA NEWS The three-islandinternationaldouble-handedracingRSVisionFleetconsistedofsix The OptimistGoldclasspodiumwinnerswereSt.BarthsailorsAntoninSciouinfirstand The Optimistfleet,with14entries,wasthelargest.Thoseyearsofexperience The 23competingboatsincludedcrewstravelingfromSt.BarthandAnguillato The St.MaartenYachtClubreports:BreezyconditionsprevailedfortheGrant Challenging St. yacht-transport.com Book your TIME DYT now All-inclusive Yacht Transport Maarten Multi-ClassRegatta

TIM WRIGHT / WW.PHOTOACTION.COM the nineclassesracing:PeterHarrison’s rating asrewarding.Itdoesn’tgetbetterthanthis.” classes duringLesVoiles’tenthprestigiousregattawithbulletafterisasexhila- racing careers.Itwaschallengingandexhausting,buttosweeptheentirefiveCSA seasoned pros.I’msoproud,knowing as tough,ifnotharder,thanwhenI’mintheMaxis,”SouthAfricansaid. the smallerCSA4fleet.“It’sanincrediblycompetitiveclasswithcloseracing.It’sjust Caribbean regatta,includingthe600,withconsistentpodiumresults.” an eyeon.Hemaneuvered manager. AccordingtoBaldwin,“Julesissomeonetheracingworldneedskeep needed tocompletethewinningpuzzle.Myheartisfilledwithjoy,”Baldwinsaid. Giles astacticianandcoachtocomplementtheteam.“Itwasfinalpiecewe skipper JulesWhitehadn’tcrackedthetopofpodium.SherecentlyaddedMike But untilLesVoilesdeSt.BarthRichardMille,April14th Detering tooktheoverallfirstplaceawayfromthembylessthantwopoints. hard onDayOneandscoredfivebullets,butTwoJesseLakeMathijs Story The tentheditionofLesVoilesdeSt.Barthalsodeliveredthreeperfectscoreswithin Baldwin says,“Myentirestellarcrewoftenisunderage30,competingagainst Giles hasracedalmosteveryVoilesintheMaxiclassandreallyenjoyedhistime Liquid’s Pamala Baldwin,owneroftheJ/122 Liquid Visit www.regattaguru.com/smycforfullresults. T (toll free): 744 +1888 7398 T: + 377 977 075 35(EU) T: 8707 525 (USA)+ 1954 E: [email protected] us: Contact (CSA2),andSergioSagramoso’s SweepsCSAClassesinLesVoilesdeSt.Barth skipper, 25-year-oldJulianWhiteofLymington,UK,isalsotheracingyacht’s Liquid throughthisentireseason.Wecompetedinevery Auckland NZandBrisbaneAUS -December2019 )W/DXGHUGDOH*RO̬ Auckland NZandBrisbaneAUS -December2019 0DUWLQLTXHʇ*RO̬ Caribbean/ US East Coast Ft. Lauderdale Ft. Lauderdale Ft. Lauderdale Ft. Lauderdale – Mediterranean Coast US East Martinique Martinique Coast East –US Caribbean Ft. Lauderdale US East Coast – Caribbean Genoa Palma Palma –Caribbean Mediterranean Palma Genoa Palma Genoa Palma Genoa –Mediterranean US East Coast Liquid Liquid Lazy Dog Sorcha , frequentlyracestheCaribbeancircuit. isprovidingaplatformfortheirfuture (Maxi1),AndyBerdon’s E: [email protected] T: 8975 45 696 + 596 Douglas Rapier agent: Martinique (CSA3). ˍ ˍ ˍ ˍ ˍ ˍ ˍ ˍ ˍ ˍ ˍ ˍ ˍ ˍ ˍ ˍ WR&RVWD5LFD3DSHHWH7DKLWL Palma November 2019 November October 2019 September 2019 September 2019 Palma Genoa Palma Genoa December 2019 Ft. Lauderdale November 2019 Ft. Lauderdale November 2019 St. Thomas November 2019 November 2019 Martinique October 2019 Martinique St. Thomas November 2019 Ft. Lauderdale November 2019 Ft. Lauderdale October 2019 Ft. Lauderdale October 2019 Ft. Lauderdale September 2019 Ft. Lauderdale August 2019 Ft. Lauderdale

WR&RVWD5LFD3DSHHWH7DKLWL through 20th,sheandyoung —Continued onnextpage ʇ6RXWK3DFL̬ F Summer JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11

PATRICK HUTCHINS / CLOUD ISLAND MEDIA

with Agents for: out of Trinidad. Mikado of Sark Sail La Vie —Continued on next page Nirvana, , a US-flagged C&C 44 cap- Long 62º 50.1’ W Lat 17º 20.3’ N W Lat 17º 20.3’ Long 62º 50.1’ came second, and Barbara , up from Trinidad, placed third. Haul & Storage Haul and Launch $ 11 / ft. Haul and Launch $ 11 - Hot Chocolate Dogsmile, Sydney FREE high speed Wifi. . Beat the Hurricane season rush. Have access Our 164 ton Travel Lift has ability to lift boats up to 35 ft Our 164 ton Travel , and Lloyd De Roche’s San Juan 34, from St. Lucia placed third. “QUALITY SERVICE AT A GREAT PRICE” GREAT A AT SERVICE “QUALITY BOAT YARD YARD BOAT LOCATED AT NEW GUINEA, ST. KITTS NEW GUINEA, ST. AT LOCATED LO St. Kitts Marine Works SS Gaya, Galatea out of Grenada scored a string of firsts to win first prize overall. Another out of Grenada scored a string of firsts to www.skmw.net E-mail: [email protected] Cell: 1 (869) 662 8930 REGULAR HOURS FOR HAUL: Thurs 8am to 3pm, Fridays 8am to Noon Monday to Special - 5% discount for full payment. Storage $ 8 / ft / month to your vessel to be launched at any time and not get stuck behind other boats. down available ($3/ft), backhoe available ($100/hr) to dig hole to put keel down Tie and in etc. Pressure wash, Mechanics ($45/hr), Electricians ($45/hr), Welding Carpenters available. wide and 120 feet long. allow you to do your own work on your boat. No extra charge for Catamarans. We Payments – Cash (EC or US$) Visa, Mastercard, Discover & travellers checks (must sign in front of completely fenced property with CCTV. 24 hr manned Security, us with ID) and electricity available. Water The Cruising I class was won with three bullets by the Burke 10 The Cruising I class was won with three bullets After three race days, in the Racing Class Richard Szyjan’s modified Hobie 33, After three race days, in the Racing Class In the Cruising II class, regular competitor Although the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta and Les Voiles de St. Barth offered Voiles de St. Barth Regatta and Les Antigua Classic Yacht Although the the largest class of double-ender Challenge” for stand-alone “Big Boat The Friday’s this year. The “Hal’s for the yacht division was introduced A new scoring system Pyle’s Xtreme, William Tempro of Barbados at the helm, followed by Judd Tinius’s Grenada–based William Tempro of Barbados at the helm, classic sloop, verified. The program provided a significant improvement for both officials and verified. The program provided a significant the Racing Rules of Sailing 2017-2020. competitors and is fully compatible with Category 5, Grenada-based boat, Jon Totten’s J/105, each day. Regatta headquarters was the beautiful Bequia Plantation Hotel on the Hotel Plantation Bequia the beautiful was headquarters day. Regatta each for races coconut-boat sailors, and for junior races Bay. Dinghy of Admiralty shore out the event. rounded kids the smaller I, Cruising II, year, J/24, Cruising same weekend this events on the excellent sailing at Bequia. Classes were represented Windward Sloops Racing, and conditions were challenging, name. Weather was true to the race’s Bequia boats stay upright. on crew weight to or centerboard, rely boats, with no keel and these necessitating three knockdowns four finished, with boats entered, only Of the eight and coast guard assistance. safety boat seconds of being software published results online within Race Results” commercial tained by Richard Washington, won first prize and the 65-foot ketch tained by Richard Washington, won first prize & the Grenadines came in second.with skipper Dominique Bouquet of St. Vincent Kelly Ohid’s Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 37,

WORLD CRUISING CLUB [email protected] . 20 DELUXE COTTAGES 20 DELUXE with owner Bernard Johnson — a participant from with owner Bernard Johnson — a participant return to Rodney Bay, St. Lucia MARINA DOCKING / 53 SLIPS MARINA DOCKING / 53 MARINA 15MN DRIVE FROM THE AIRPORT Pretaixte Reel Extreme and www.secretharbourgrenada.com TEL: +1 (473) 444 4449 444 4449 TEL: +1 (473) RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL BAR / POOL & TENNIS / PRIVATE BEACH. BEACH. & TENNIS / PRIVATE BAR / POOL & COCKTAIL RESTAURANT SECRET HARBOUR SECRET HARBOUR Medregal Continued from previous page previous page from Continued “The last day of World ARC is always special,” says World Cruising Club’s Managing“The last day of World ARC is always special,” Sports fishing boat and Australia (in September) each World ARC starts from St. Lucia (in January) Visit www.worldcruising.com for more information. Success for Bequia’s Annual Easter Regatta April 18th to 22nd, brought exciting racing Chris Kaye reports: The Easter weekend, The next Les Voiles de St. Barth Richard Mille is planned for April 12th to 18th, 2020. to 18th, for April 12th planned Mille is Barth Richard de St. Les Voiles The next results. for full Visit www.lesvoilesdesaintbarth.com/us Circumnavigators World ARC St. Lucia Welcomes officially World ARC 2018-19 round-the-world rally Club reports: The World Cruising Excitement to the adventure. provided a fitting finish of Sail and a dinner A Parade Director Andrew Bishop. “Re-crossing the start line in Rodney Bay is an emotional momentDirector Andrew Bishop. “Re-crossing the start and is deservedly celebrated in style.” for those completing their circumnavigation Bay. Representatives from World ARC’s ARC 1995 — escorted the fleet from Marigot arriving crews. Once berthed in IGY supporting organizations applauded the for a reception hosted by General Rodney Bay Marina, the sailors gathered final rally dinner was held at the Manager Sean Deveaux and his team. The Mystique Royal St. Lucia hotel. for the 2021-22 edition of the rally will year, with a multi-national sailing fleet. Entries soon be open. islands. The four-day event saw yachts in one of the Caribbean’s most picturesque battle it out in winds of 15 to 23 knots and traditional double-ender fishing boats — St. Lucia, 38 Returning to with a day of celebrations. end on April 13th came to an nautical of 26,000 a global circumnavigation of 16 yachts completed crewmembers 18 countries. oceans and visit over saw them cross three miles that for the as crews prepared Bay Resort & Marina the docks of Marigot swept through many months ago. Rodney Bay, from where the fleet started ceremonial last leg to left from that very the classic tradewind route, 13 boats With World ARC following Australasia before Others took a year or two out to explore spot in January 2018. edition. rejoining the subsequent after circumnavigating in the World ARC Crews of JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 lift theEnglishHarbourRumTrophy.ALombard46, up, withJean-PierreDick’sFrenchJP54, Ambersail2 KH+P, one week’sbareboatcharterfromAntiguaSailingWeek2020,wasHansSteidle’s Overall Champion,winningtheDreamYachtCharterTrophy,andavoucherfor all, winningtheCatamaranMarinaCup,was overall inCSA,winningthePeterDeethTrophy,was eted LordNelsonTrophy. testing thetechnicalabilitiesofinternationalfleet. marks ontheWindwardCourseallowedforbetterwindward-leewardracecourses, allowing theboatstostretchtheirlegs.Theintroductionofnewtopandbottom six daysofracing.Newmarksprovidedtheopportunityforlongercoastalcourses, of AntiguaSailingWeek,heldApril27ththroughMay3rd.Thetradewindsblewforall 2020 SparrowsPremiumRumBequiaEasterRegatta,whichrunsfromApril9thto13th. can beimprovedandmadeevengreener. the greenestever,butorganizerswanttohearfromparticipantshowevent Williams and ous, followedby Evan John. in first,withThierrydeBadereau’s after threeaction-packedracedayswereasfollows: lay day. fered breakagesresultinginDNFsontwoofthethreeracedays. boat intheclass,MikeWilkieandNicolaCornwell’sCarriacousloop, and Sheldon Morgan. Fisk’s ItchenorSailingClubteam,wonthelastracetoclaimsecond,apointahead Grisoni andskipperedbyCharlesGloumeau, Phoenix — In CSA2,theKer46 Sojana Sojana Peter Harrison’sFarr115, Teams from21differentcountriesallovertheworldracedin52ndedition Sojana Visit www.bequiaregatta.comforfullresults. Bequia SailingClublooksforwardtowelcomingoldandnewparticipantsthe Thanks tothesupportofNGOActionBequia,thisBequiaEasterRegattawas In Class2, Class 1wastoppedby For thedouble-enders—allfromStVincent&Grenadinesoverallwinners Two yachtsbravedtheSingle-HandedAroundBequiaRaceonEasterSunday The “bigboats”class,Class7,saw In Class5, Class 3waswonby Of theWindwardIslandSloops,JeffStevens’sPetiteMartinique-built In theJ/24class,trioonpodiumallhailedfromBarbados.GregoryWebster’s Continued frompreviouspage Camille Barbuda tookfirstplace,followedby wasthewinnerofCSA1,scoringsixracewins.TheLithuanianVolvo65, Tops52ndAntiguaSailingWeek wasthebestboatracinginCSAOverall,winningCorumCup;second Dogsmile , skipperedbySimonasSteponavicius,wonthelastracetotakerunner- Benita G Kiss of ReonOllivierre. Gods Angel . of NigelLeslietookfirstplace,followedby Slip Away wasfirst,followedbyDavidBowes’ ofMichaelMarkswasthevictor,followedby Y Knot Lady Mariposa, Knowledge of AdolphusForde. Sojana, ofArnoldHazelland ofKirstanNanton,followedby Free inSt.Barths wastheoverallregattawinner,retainingcov- Lightning (ofBequia) Mount GayBunga-Bunga of Ryan“Royie”Marks,followedby skipperedbyJesperBank,scoredsixbulletsto The Kid Lady Mariposa. , inthird. Red second.Unfortunately,thethird Fadeaway Pata Negra of JoJoAdams. Scarlet Oyster New Destiny Galaxy of BobDecouteauvictori- Lightning (ofMayreau) with Gus Reader. withGusReader. , owned by Raphael , ownedbyRaphael , skipperedbyAdrian The Bareboat of ElmoreSnagg D Shark from theUK. ; andthirdover- Exodus Beauty O Connie ofHudson , suf- came of of

PAUL WYETH / PWPICTURES.COM and OnDeckAntigua’sFarr65 was alsodeclaredBestSwan.MarkJagger’sCNB60, of JeremyThorp’sBritishGP42, Gunboat 60, Class. StephenBourne’sRapido60, Layfield’s AntiguanJ/111s, Middleton’s BritishFirst47.7, Liquid Hinckley Cupforbestracingcharteryacht.PamalaBaldwin’sAntiguanJ/122, the mostcompetitiveCSAClass,winningSanhallTrademarksTrophyand Magras’ X-34, Patrick Bernier’sSt.Barthsteam,racingtheDufour34 to wintheclass,takingHenleyTrophy.SecondwasRaymondMagrasand Sailing Academy’smodifiedCork1720 stage after30yearsoftrying! ing theFirst40 ST37, Yacht. RichardMatthews,competinginhis40thAntiguaSailingWeekwithBritish General’s Cup. In CSA4RossApplebey’sBritishOyster48, In CSA3,AdrianLee’sIrishSwan60, Robert Szustkowski’sPolishHH66, CSA 5featuredcloseracing,withraceswonorlostbyseconds.JontyandVicki CSA 6waswonbyJulesMitchell’steam,allunder20yearsold,racingtheNational Holding Pattern , wassecondandalsothewinnerofCSATravellers’Trophy.Andy Moementum Ma Optimus Prime Sleeper ë lia CEPACAntilles , wasrunner-up.MartynOldroyd’sRoyalYorkshireYCteamrac- was alsonamedbothBestCaribbeanandAntiguan , wasthird. Sleeper, EH01 wasthird—thefirsttimeMartynhasmadebig Phan Spirit ofJuno , wasthirdinclass. R-SIX battledtoaclasswin,earningtheGovernor Ineffable . , alsofromSt.Barths,wasthird. Lee OverlayPartnersII , wonallfiveracestodominatetheMultihull Spirit. Scarlet Oyster wasthird. Theall-Antiguanteamscoredsixbullets , wassecond,andFredrikMoe’s Speedy Nemo Theia ofLondon , wonwhatwasarguably last year Cup thatshewon retained theLordNelson At ASW2019, —Continued onnextpage , scoredfivebulletsand . Raphael , wassecond, Sojana

JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 A new sponsorship opportunity, “I’m a Friend of The Carriacou Regatta Festival”, is A new sponsorship opportunity, “I’m a Friend welcomes all: locals, visitors, sailors, andThe Carriacou Regatta Festival Committee for more information. Contact [email protected] YOUTH SAILING NEWS in Antigua Record Number of Countries for Optiworld have now registered for the 2019 More than 260 competitors from 64 countries their coaches, and families from Antigua will host the event and its competitors, information. Visit http://2019worlds.optiworld.org for more Also added to the itinerary is the “Ya Gotta Regatta” Kids’ Day on Sunday, August Kids’ Day on Sunday, “Ya Gotta Regatta” to the itinerary is the Also added

offered to individuals and small businesses. With a donation of EC$500, EC$300 or offered to individuals and small businesses. and will be acknowledged in the EC$100, donors can support this year’s event public relations efforts. the treasures of sea and land in Carriacou. those with a love of the sea, to experience the world record for the most countries Optimist World Championship, breaking latest countries to join the regatta include competing in a single-class regatta. The Malaysia. Cyprus, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and July 6th to 16th. “come home” for the 2019 regatta. A new award, the Carriacou Seafaring Lifetime Seafaring Carriacou the A new award, regatta. for the 2019 home” “come the sea lives to their have dedicated who honor residents will Award, Achievement and heritage. culture to Carriacou’s and contributed between relationship to providing an emotional will be dedicated 4th. This day workshops. demonstrations, and through education, youth and the sea Carriacou’s race them sea-grape sailboats, own coconut and be able to build their Children will Optimist watch the Young Sailors’ of the sea, and storytellers tell tales for prizes, hear surprise! with a very special up. Kids’ Day will end races close SALLY ERDLE SALLY

. . Jigsaw . Karl , was third. , was third. won the Antigua won the Antigua won, to take the Bavastro Raucous racing with his two racing with Imagine of Falmouth Odin II, Barbuda Barbuda, INDY - Loosha Sails , taking the Antigua Hotels & Tourism , taking the Antigua Tintoret Tel: +1 473 444 2400 Tel: , with three race wins was third. , with three race wins , which has won Bareboat Overall for the last two years. , which has won Bareboat won the last race to claim runner-up for the class, and won the last race to Botero was third. was third in Bareboat 3 and in Bareboat Overall. was third in Bareboat , was second, and Henry Rourke’s Open 40, and Henry Rourke’s , was second, was second in class and in the Bareboat Division overall. Andreas and in the Bareboat Division overall. Andreas was second in class Ananda Lascaris, Hawking Buckaroo KHS&S Contractors winning the National Parks Trophy in the very last race. David Kinsey’s David Kinsey’s last race. in the very Trophy Parks the National winning VILLAS • RESTAURANT • BAR • LIVE MUSIC • MARINA VILLAS • RESTAURANT Continued from previous page previous page from Continued The inaugural Double-Handed Class was won by Philip Asche’s American Swan 44, Swan Asche’s American by Philip was won Class Double-Handed The inaugural Bareboat Overall was won by Hans Steidle’s KH+P, Hans Steidle’s KH+P, Overall was won by Bareboat KH+P, Gerd Eiermann’s 1 went right to the wire. Bareboat Bareboat 3 produced a terrific battle for the class win. Bareboat 3 produced Bareboat 2 was won by Peter Zauner’s Bareboat 2 was won The nine-strong Club Class was won by Ian Galbraith’s Scottish Oyster 53, Class was won by Ian Galbraith’s Scottish The nine-strong Club will take place on April 25th through May The 53rd edition of Antigua Sailing Week Visit www.sailingweek.com Visit www.yachtscoring.com for full results. ON THE HORIZON Renaissance Time for Carriacou Regatta over the Windward Islands and beyond, Since 1965, sailors young and old, from all (preceding Antigua Sailing Week As the longest-running regatta in the Caribbean entertainment including the This year’s regatta will continue with time-honored under the leadership of Chairperson The Carriacou Regatta Festival Committee, Classic, invites all Carriacou Sloops to The addition of an extra race, The Carriacou — Freebird, Oyster 49, sons and their friends who have been racing together through Optimists, 420s, and through Optimists, been racing together friends who have sons and their it will not be German team, and Sailing Week for the was the first Antigua J/70s. This Trophy, the Dream Yacht Charter Overall, lifting the winners of Bareboat their last. As at Antigua for a free charter Dream Yacht Charter won a voucher from team also 2020. Sailing Week Slipway Trophy, scoring three race wins and five second places to win by a single three race wins and five second places Slipway Trophy, scoring class champion, Alexander Pfeiffer’s KH+P, point from last year’s Puetz’s KH+P, three race wins. scored all podium finishes, including Association Cup. Tintoret Nicholas Jordan’s Jakob Oetiker’s KH+P, Cannon and Neil pushed hard in every race by Michael BOAC Cup, but was Harvey’s KHS&S Contractors Hofmann’s winner, Jon Constantine’s Feeling 39, Second was last year’s Jerry Bethell’s Jeanneau 54, James Gardner and 1st, 2020. for more information. during the first weekend of August for an have returned to the island of Carriacou beginnings — the vision of Jamaican authentic Caribbean regatta. From its humble racing scene in the Grenadines. sailor Linton Riggs — emerged a prominent event takes place from August 2nd by three years), the 2019 edition of this four-day for a multitude of boat classifications. On to 5th and focuses on challenging courses the culture and heritage of the island. land, there are special events incorporating children’s events and a cruise, to Donkey Race and the Greasy Pole Competition, races — four days of celebrations of compliment the extensive schedule of boat the sea! of this celebration of Carriacou’s Allison Caton, is committed to the renaissance for the next generation of Carriacou sailors seafaring heritage, ensuring its existence and boatbuilders. HURRICANE in our marina of 4 months SEASON SPECIAL - Stay a minimum for or electricity boats with- valid for (only wiﬁ water, with no cost for (June-November) laundryt from on site customs & immigration, service, and Beneﬁ out air conditioning). comprehensive Fully washrooms & showers onboard our historic Lighthouse Ship. hurricane in place with limited marina plan occupancy during the season. The new laid back vibe of the resort features now - UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT with beach and Tavern Tropical the rebranded restaurant and renovated island Fever poolside seating. hour bar pricing priced happy • Casually • Daily breakfast and a week Open 7 days on music Breakfast • Live All Day poolside BBQ • Sunday • Saturday menu all-day water- swimming pool, the Lighthouse Ship • Other resort 2 small beaches, amenities: Therapy and Blue Light Distillery. Clinic Absolute Ozone Bar, After Glo Beauty sports, JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 48-foot Swans International Six-MetreClass eligible. Racinginitwerethe33-foot any materialwithkeelconfigurationwere designed andbuiltbeforetheendof1976in years. Inthisyear’snewHistoricClass,yachts as SpiritofTradition,wereaddedoverthe tional rigandappearance.Otherclasses,such were builtofwoodorsteel,andtradi- keel, wereofmoderatetoheavydisplacement, was mainlyforoldervesselsthathadafull 29-foot PetticrowsDragons. followed nineotherclassesdescendinginsizetothe Hercules. Bigschoonerschargedoverthelinefirst, perched onthehillthatisheldupbyPillarsof starts heldoffFortCharlotte,withtheracecommittee sail onafineoldyacht.Newthisyearwerewindward who loveachallenging affect thespiritedsailors 23rd, buttheydidn’t held April17ththrough Classic YachtRegatta, into Antigua’s32nd winds ofchangeblew THE Tancook gaffschooner dance withamopondeck.The1967,47-foot and artfullycoiledlines,allfollowedbya with alastcoatofvarnish,touch-uppaint, Andrew Breece. included sel’s backstorytoateamofjudgesthat a historylessonandchancetoshareves- prizes. It’spartlyabeautycontest,butmore traditional yachtsintherunningforatableof the serioussaltspraycommencedwith11 World Diamondsloop 1972) andthe1960-built,30-footYachting 65-foot AlfredMylne-designed and MatthewBarker,ownerofthe1929, with MountGayRumandcustomkoozies; sail schooner cabin withpinetar;the1939,115-footstay- schooner across theAtlanticbyhisson. is afamilyboat,builtbyfatherandsailed winner, the44-foot,one-offBurgess to structuralintegrityandsafety.Thisyear’s Frizzell Awardforseaworthinessandattention past 14years. 11, havebeencruisingtheCaribbeanfor Frary, daughterElizabeth13,andsonNathan Legendary Yachts.OwnersSteveandTricia Ticonderoga spirit tolastyear’soverallwinner,the72-foot replica ofthe1939 Herreshoff-designed ketch onboard, youknow.” picked uptoysbecause“Wehaveababy Handed Courseinmoderatewinds.Everyboatcar- privately ownedtwo-mastedschoonerintheworld. and spectaclesheaddedtothefleetaslargest CarriacouMarine.com 473 443 6292 When theregattabeganin1987,event For days,crewslaboredtospifftheirboats The Concoursd’Elégancetookplacebefore Special Mentionwenttothe203-footHoek A highlightofAntiguaClassicsistheArne Overall Concourswinnerwasthe66-foot Eleven skipperssailedinthe20thannualSingle Marine fueldock:gasolineanddiesel,engineoil Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou, Grenada, West Indies Lunches andpizza night attheIguana café Wooden BoatMagazine Athos Boatyard services with 40ton travel lift , shewasbuiltin1997by Eros Montana forthejaw-droppingbeauty Convenience store &chandlery artfullyfilleditspianotop Moorings &accommodation Bounty Rita. Customs &immigration and Avenger

Arrluuk Sleeper Biwi Magic and akindred The BluePeter scentedits . Afaithful publisher Morgaine (builtin , the ,

ANTIGUA CLASSICYACHTREGATTA2019 Dragons. TheDragonisakeelboatdesignedin1929 A one-designclasswascreatedthisyearforthePetticrows by JanHein in Antigua the Classics Honoring was Caribbeancasual.Workingagainstit,competi- Two, theweatherdialeddownandbyDayFour,it mere 2hours,13minutesand43seconds.OnDay 31-mile coursewiththemighty every deck.Bigboats,sailinganextraleg,covereda with windstouching20knotsandseascovering victory forSmallClassics. 41-foot AbekingandRasmussensloop Classics. OliverGreensmithskipperedthe1936, Goldhill, tooklinehonorsandfirstplaceforLarge 1957, 52-footyawl Class, capture theon-deckantics.InSpiritofTradition ried anobserverandsometookaphotographerto Four daysofcompetitionfortheentirefleetbegan schemed with friends to grow the fleet. schemed withfriendstogrowthefleet. Rumor hasithebuiltoneforaswimmingpool,then in thePonziClass,brainchildofRobbieFabre. Biwi Magic the first time this year were the tiny sailboats the firsttimethisyearweretinysailboats Admiral’s InninEnglishHarbour.Racingfor Gig RacesandCreamTeasheldatthe while littleonescameouttoplayduringthe Antigua YachtClubYouthSailing. Rocco Falconeandthreebuddiesfrom Tall ShipsClass. beat hersistership, Swan 48 schooner top honorswenttothe1928,50-footstaysail Schooner Class.TheVintageClass 54-foot Aldenschooner Lord Nelson. Tommy Patterson,convincinglydressedas show beforeturningitovertoannouncer Regatta ChairmanCarloFalconeopenedthe evening clothesandaseaoftropicalattire. salt-stained clothesforcleancrewshirts, Antigua YachtClubwheresailorsswapped cannons andhornsaddedforeffect. dressed yachtsforasalutetothecrowdwith through EnglishHarbor.Crewsquickly Course raceendedwiththeParadeofSail genre imaginable. Dock PartyNightandmusicalactsfromevery Competition, aDark-and-StormyCelebration, Roast, theunpredictableSeaShanty for morale.EveningeventsincludedaHog Beer becausepost-racehydrationwascrucial sponsored byMountGayRumandCarib Italian watches. limited numberofLocmanhand-crafted top honorsandthechancetoclaimoneofa tion crescendoeddaily,captainshopingfor the ketch sloop 42-foot AlwynEnoe-designedCarriacou Class, andfirstinTraditionalClasswasthe Chloe Giselle won theVintageOtherSailPlanclass. Bruce King-designed33-foot On the final day, the big boats took a rest On thefinalday,bigboatstookarest The DragonClasswaswonby18-year-old The 157-footKlausRöder-designed First-place prizeswereawardedtothe The FinalPrizegivingtookplaceatthe Sunday’s KennyCombsMemorialCannon It wasfortuitousthattheClassicswere The ClassicsOtherSailPlanwinnerwas The McMillan-designedSpirit65sloop The ClassicGRPClasswinnerwasthe1961 Genesis took first,sailedbyTonySayer.The Sleeper Charm III. Arrluuk Mah Jong, wonintheSpiritofTradition . toppedtheHistoricClass. , and

—Continued onnextpage Rhea, Severine skipperedbyAlex Athos Seefalke II, forfirstplacein Iris J; finishingina intheClassic Seefalke II theS&S Chronos a sloop, to

JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 Fuel Dock 24 hour Security Port of Entry Customs & Immigration Office - 9am to 6pm Electricity 110V/220v & Water Complimentary Wifi Laundry Service Supermarket & Boutique Cafe Soleil & Flowt Beach Bar The Loft Restaurant and Bar Indigo Dive Shop Swimming Pool Beautifully Designed Hotel Rooms racing on a roll, Marina: VHF 16 or 68 Email: [email protected] Vendia in the Classic New Moon Avenger showed her boisterous side The mighty Schooner Class, After winning her class at the Concours d’Elégance, on the race course Columbia Clockwise from top left: The Carricou Sloop the Traditional Class, The 1943 gaff ketch 784.458.4308 Call: Continued from previous page Visit www.antiguaclassics.com for full results. Post regatta, vessels set off in all directions but Post regatta, vessels set off in all directions Six were in attendance providing a crayon box of Six were in attendance providing a crayon hopefully they’ll find their way back for the 2020 cel- hopefully they’ll find their way back for love them so. ebration of old boats and the souls who color with rig combinations from a designer’s wildest color with rig combinations from a designer’s well despite dream. Performance wise, the fleet did the need to some random sinking maneuvers and paddle during tacking. — JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 its energyandvigor.TheiconicCaribbeanmusicalensemblebegins your stayinAntigua,andasteelpanbandthatwillstunyouwith becue thatwillleaveyoucravingjerkedchickenfortheremainderof A favoriteamongcruisers,visitorsandlocalsalike,itfeaturesbar- place eachandeverySunday,asithasdoneforthepast31years. renowned foritsSundayeveningfestivities.Thegatheringtakes bursts ofcolor,makingeachphotographbetterthanthelast. birthday cakeand,minutebyminute,theskychangeswithdifferent buildings belowtwinkleinthefadinglightliketinycandlesona place towitnesstheelusivegreenflash.Lightsofmastsand level, theviewisoneofbestinCaribbeanandperfect across EnglishandFalmouthHarboursfrom490feetabovesea their feettothepulsatingrhythm.Withpanoramicperspectives glowing sphereasitdisappearsintotheocean,allwhiletapping byErinCarey Above: ‘There’sourboat!’ HITTING ANTIGUA’S Shirley Heights,arestoredmilitarylookoutandgunbattery,is THE Below right:You’llreachanareaofflatstonesurroundedbylayeredwalls HEIGHTS sets, acrowdgatherstophotographthe chicken permeatestheair.Assun ning breezeandthescentofjerked sounds ofcalypsofloatonthecooleve- SAILORS’ HIKES playing at4:00 and scratchunprotectedlegs. plants, completewithone-inchthornsthatwillpiercethroughthebottomsofshoes Tread carefullythough,asthetrackislinedwithnumeroustallcactiandacacia along thetrail,convenientlymarkedbywhitespotspaintedonrockspath. feeling crazy,youcancliff-jumpfromtherocksintoominousoceanbelow. Carpenters Rock,ispopularamongfishermen,hikersandthrillseekers.Ifyou’re complete withrockpoolsfullofseaurchinsandfish.Thisplatform,knownas walls oflimestone,wornawayovermillionsyearstocreateridgesandhidey-holes, rewarded, however,whenyoureachanareaofflatstonesurroundedbylayered few placesalongtheway,pathwouldn’tfeelquiteashairy.Yourriskwillbe trail isotherwiseofanintermediatelevel,andifitweren’tforthesheerdrop-offina across smallridgesthatcouldcauseasignificantinjury,orworse,ifyouslip.The of Antiguaandtheoceanbelow,therearemomentswhenyouwillneedtostep above, crashingintotheshore,mistrisingair. can beseencaressingthecliffsbelow,andAtlanticswellheardfromhigh ping oflimestonecliffs,wornawaybyendlesswavesandwind.Thedeepbluesea below, andyouwillmarvelattheviewsofAtlanticOceanjaggedoutcrop- the harbourentrance.Continuealongwater’sedge,anerve-racking20metres races. BesuretolookouttheoldruinsofFortBerkeleyonoppositeside and isoftenusedasanobservatoryforwatchingthestartsfinishesofyacht with thefirstviewoverEnglishHarbour.TheviewpointisknownasFortCharlotte, rugged shorelinefornotmorethanafewhundredmetres,andyouwillberewarded anchor semi-submergedinthesand.FollowCarpentersRockTrailalong leave theirdinghiesonshore,perhapstiedtoatree,ortheenormousrustedship’s and prepareforyourafternooneveningoffunfrivolity. northern sideofthebay,ensureyouarriveearlyindaytosecureyourposition often difficulttofindaplaceanchor.Withholdingslightlylessreliableonthe This makesitextremelypopularamongcruisers,asevidencedbythefactthatis and bars,isashortstrollfromtheadditionalamenitiesofFalmouthHarbour. Harbour offerseasyaccesstothehistoricNelson’sDockyardandnumerouscafés beach, boutiqueshorefronthotelsandvariousshadesofturquoisewaters.English anchorages ontheislandandwillcharmyouwithitssecludedpalm-tree-lined entire afternoonandeveningofitbyhikingtothesiteonfoot. party isaninstitutioninAntiguaandamust-doforallwhovisittheisland. punch orDarkandStormysmadewithhomemadegingerbeer.TheShirleyHeights songs. Thebeatwillbesuretogetyouinthepartyingmood,notmentionrum Once you’veexploredtherockpoolsandtakenobligatoryphotos,continue The trailborderstheedgeofacliff,literallyinchesawayfromsouthernmosttip The trailbeginsatthesouthernendofGalleonBeach,andcruiserswillneedto A wordaboutEnglishHarbour,wherethehikebegins:itisoneofmostidyllic However, don’tmerelypayforataxiorhirecartotraveltheparty.Makean PM andperformsamixtureofCaribbeantuneswell-knownpop —Continued onnextpage JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 Below: A steel pan band will stun you with its energy Below: A steel pan band will stun you with The barbecue is reasonably priced, with meals starting from around EC$25 and The barbecue is reasonably priced, with Rock at night; however, if you have I wouldn’t recommend returning via Carpenters decide to make your way to the attraction, One thing’s for sure, no matter how you Left: This hike offers dramatic views of the rugged Atlantic coastline Left: This hike offers dramatic views of the way to enter the party. To find the alternate trail, begin on the road behind Galleon way to enter the party. To find the alternate a few minutes before you will see a small Beach. Turn left and follow the road for up and will get the heart pumping, but you trail to your right. This trail is straight along the way. will be rewarded with breathtaking views the food is tasty. Drinks on Thursday night are cheaper than the beverages on the food is tasty. Drinks on Thursday earlier in the week. Sunday, perhaps another reason to visit shouldn’t be too difficult. Alternatively, a torch, walking down Desmond’s Trail of the many taxi drivers that are waiting for arrange a taxi or share a ride with one the passengers to finish partying. of your visit to the island of Antigua an evening at Shirley Heights will be a highlight be wearing your dancing shoes! and luckily, if you hike up, you’ll already Karen Salomon Karen Martinique Ofﬁ ce Martinique Ofﬁ Douglas Yacht Services Douglas Yacht M +596 696 11 86 73 E [email protected] sevenstar-yacht-transport.com Continued from previous page previous page from Continued Entrance into Shirley Heights costs EC$25 (US$10) per person on a Sunday. Entrance into Shirley Heights costs EC$25 (US$10) per person on a Sunday. Another 20 minutes of hiking, occasionally traversing boulders and and boulders traversing occasionally of hiking, 20 minutes Another However, if you visit on a Thursday, which admittedly doesn’t have the same electric However, if you visit on a Thursday, which admittedly doesn’t have the same electric to atmosphere, you do not have to pay an entrance fee. Alternatively, if you’d like well- take a shorter route, and avoid the Sunday entrance fee altogether, follow the defined trail known as Desmond’s Trail. You will not only arrive in a much shorter bank time, 20 to 30 minutes instead of 1.5 hours, but as you enter onto a grassy and just below the Shirley Heights restaurant, you will avoid the collection point hence the fee. According to the establishment, entry via this point is an acceptable rocky crags, will bring you to a viewpoint perched high upon a hill. upon a high perched to a viewpoint bring you crags, will rocky of water before stop for a quick drink provides the perfect The outcrop is quite steep and leg of the hike begins. The final the real incline directly for Shirley heading almost the top of a ridge, runs along will reach a road, 20 or 30 minutes you above. After Heights, towering and band. the barbecue should turn left towards where you — JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 able dinghyhasgottenalotofsmilesinthisland mangoes, andwenttoexplorethebeach.Ourinflat- hit upthevegetableladiesforsometomatoesand your dinghyto.Wecheckedoutthedowntownarea, breakwater thathassmallbollardsyoucanlock the entrancetoriverthereisalargeconcrete check wherewecouldtieupsafelytogoexploring.At okay. Thatdone,wehoppedinthedinghyandwentto Coast Guard,justcheckingintoseeifeverythingwas food offeringshere. attractions —itwouldtakemonthstosampleallthe oped withmanyhotels,restaurants,barsandtourist The beachandcliffsontheWestEndarehighlydevel- coast, Negrilissetupasamajortouristdestination. ashore sinceKingston. also thefirsttimewehadseenthismanypeople fellow cruisingboat—justone,fromGermany.Itwas the firsttimeduringourcruiseofJamaicawesawa some chartercatamaransanchoredintheareaandfor the closeryouanchortotowncenter. direction youwillgetsomerolling,whichgetsworse beach. Thisisalargebaysodependingonthewind anchored in12feetaboutaquartermilefromthe fairly deepwatercloseintoshorehereandwe were definitelyrightinthemiddleofthings!Thereis halfway downNegril’sfamousSevenMileBeach.We be closertotownsoweanchoredinLongBay,about Bay, whichislovelyifsomewhatremote.Wewantedto we endeduponaclosereachtotheanchoragearea. During thelasttenmilesorsowindpickedupand to cookupafancy,forus,ricebowlalongtheway. light windsforthefirsthalfoftripandwereable Island andBlackRiver. coast ofJamaica,withotherstopsatKingston,Pigeon we hadsailedfromtheBahamasalongsouthern On ourfirstmorningwegotusualvisitfromthe Unlike Kingstonandourotherstopsonthesouth There arealargenumberofsmallboatsaswell The recommendedanchorageareahereisBloody Negril sitsatthesouthwesttipofisland.Wehad W and headedour42-footketch, ith someregretGarthandIleftBluefields part ofourjourneyfromMiamitoPanama, to ourlaststopinJamaica,Negril.As Irwinish,

byElizabethStacey right inthemiddleofthings Negril’s famousSevenMileBeach.Weweredefinitely Bottom: WeanchoredinLongBay,abouthalfwaydown on afloatingbar Below: Itwasawesomecruisingaroundthebay Inset: Above: OnJamaica’swestendit’sallaboutthesunset All theWay Westin

Two youngboyspaddledouttovisitus

DESTINATIONS Jamaica —Negril backissues.html Caribbean Compass in Jamaicathe FebruarythroughMay2019 issuesof “ heavily modifiedovertimeand isnowverymuch on their197542-footIrwinketch. Theboathasbeen south coast. one withasailboatcould enjoy sailingJamaica’s it atry!Withcommonsenseand someplanning,any- open mindandwanttoenjoyatropicalparadise,give sometimes unfairlyprecedesthereality.Ifyouhavean problem mon. entire anchoragewithananchorlight,buthey,no interesting, sinceourswasthentheonlyboatin we neededtoputouranchorlightononenight— local boatoperatorfromtheSandalsresorttellingus The biggesthasslewehadonthewholetripwasa safe, andwewereabletogeteverythingneeded. ple havebeenfriendlyandwelcoming,theanchorages our experienceontheislandhasbeengreat,peo- about safetyandtheftconstantly.Onthecontrary, online abouthowyouneedtobecarefulandworry no otherchargesforclearancehere. and sometimespentisnotabigdealwhenthereare (zarpe) wasneeded.Allthingsconsidered,thebusfare Panama next,aninternationalclearancedocument bus drop-offinMontegoBay.Asweweretravellingto Customs officialwillmeetyouatthelocationof from NegrilforaboutUS$30roundtripandthe them knowyourintenttodepart.Thereisabusand contact theofficialadayortwoinadvanceandlet formalities whiletheboatstaysinNegril.Youhaveto vessel gotoMontegoBayandcompletetheclearance country here.Theydo,however,letonepersonfroma is notaportofentrysowecouldclearoutthe did notwanttosailaroundMontegoBay.ButNegril a floatingbar! Facebook.) Itwasawesomecruisingaroundthebayon on thetikiforadiscount.(TikiPonDaSeais ghy onedayandgotanabbreviatedversionofhistrip around thebayonit.Wechasedhimdowninourdin- by asingleoutboard;hedoes“all-inclusive”trips a deckandanactualtikihutontop,ispowered boat ontheSouthNegrilRiver.Itistwopontoonswith to areggaebeatwaspersonalfavorite. Some ofitisentertaining;KennyRogers“Gambler”set tion wouldbeBloodyBay,afewmilestothenorth.) beach, somegood,notsogood.(Aquieterloca- want tobuy,unlessyousomething. something. Youjusthavetopolitelytellthemyoudon’t tourists thelocalsareconstantlytryingtosellyou ing thetown.BeingasNegrilisverywelltravelledby snorkeling onthereef,goingtobeachandexplor- a friendshipbraceletbeforetheyleft. binoculars tospyonpeopleandtalkedmeintobuying check outourboat.Theyhadalotoffunusing morning bytwoyoungboyswhohadpaddledoutto lazy! Ourlay-aroundroutinewasinterruptedone and hangingoutonthebeachNegrilwasmakingus we zoomedaroundthebay. everyone knewusas“thepeopleinthelittleboat” fishing pangasandNegrilwasnoexception.Soon Irwinish Elizabeth andGarthStaceyare travellingtheworld Like manyplacesintheworld,Jamaica’sreputation Before sailingtoJamaicawereadseveralposts We plannedonleavingfromNegrilforPanama,sowe We metaguynamedFabianwhobuilthisowntiki At nightthereisquitealotofloudmusicfromthe We generallyspentourseveraldaysherelounging, Between swimmingintheclearwateroffboat ”. SeeElizabeth’s reportsontheirotherstops atwww.caribbeancompass.com/ JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 As I thanked George for his tour, I proclaimed my experience to be a “once in a As I thanked George for his tour, I proclaimed my experience to be a “once in And don’t just visit once — have this once in a lifetime experience again A visit to the village of Codrington was next on the agenda, and the wrath it had A visit to the village of Codrington was next on the agenda, and the wrath it had As we approached the birds, the smell was pungent and offensive, yet it was yet and offensive, pungent smell was the the birds, approached As we lifetime” opportunity. George was quick to reply, “But why does this have to be a lifetime” opportunity. George was quick to reply, “But why does this have to his once in a lifetime experience? Why not visit us again and again?” I thought of words as we raised our anchor; the shadow of our yacht reflected on the water. I Leaving Barbuda was harder than I expected, and barely before we’d drifted away longed for the solitude and escape it provided. With the fate of Barbuda’s future unknown, and with this blue isle perhaps some of the most sought-after real estate in the world, don’t leave your visit until it’s too late. and again! suffered was evident. The town was in bad shape; Irma had left her mark. Piles of suffered was evident. The town was in bad shape; Irma had left her mark. Piles how- rubble lined the streets and tents were now permanent fixtures. The people, their ever, were friendly and optimistic, and children ran freely, smiles covering and faces, laughter filling the air. Donkeys and dogs roamed the streets side by side teenagers scooted by on bicycles. A quick walk around the town saw us find a supermarket and bar, but don’t come to Barbuda expecting services and supplies. Come for the natural beauty! Come for the wild horses running along rose-colored beaches and mangrove forests abundant with life. Come for the Barbuda blue waters teeming of with fish and the deer roaming freely through the scrub. Come with full tanks water and a well-provisioned boat and stay until you are no longer able. like nothing he had ever experienced before. It was a stark reminder of the power of power of of the reminder It was a stark before. experienced had ever he like nothing Nature. Mother bird, its beady from a baby frigate not three feet away as we passed quickly forgotten ruffled The nesting birds’ feathers by our presence. yet unperturbed eyes inquisitive, the air. An hooked beaks filled clicking of their long, breeze, and the in the warm his neck, was extending from red balloon-like pouch with an inflated adult male, the size as the red appendage we watched in awe to attract a mate and attempting the birds of over two metres, breeze. With a wingspan head swayed in the of a human waters fishing in the shallow dipping and diving, seen circling above, could be as one ways, and we watched for their menacing Frigate birds are known around us. he practically handed the smaller bird so frightened that stole a fish from a booby, on a plate. his catch to the frigate Above: George Geoffrey has been exploring the island his whole life Above: George Geoffrey has been exploring the great expanse of powdery white sand Left: We dinghied to the beach to explore that lay before us birds, is bigger than any other Bottom left: This colony, home to some 20,000 in the world was next on the agenda, Below: A visit to the village of Codrington and the wrath it had suffered was evident hugging the shoreline, Bottom right: We followed the 11-mile beach, to the anchorage of Lower Bay Cruising Guide to the

. With my husband on the bow and the sun high . With my husband on the bow and the by Erinby Carey DESTINATIONS and offers guided tours to see the frigate birds in their and offers guided tours to see the frigate birds in their BARBUDA

Garden of Eden BLUE En route to the bird colony, we paid a visit to a relatively new addition to the area, En route to the bird colony, we paid a visit to a relatively new addition to the area, George also spoke of his childhood, roaming free around the island, at one with George also spoke of his childhood, roaming free around the island, at one with AS we approached the island from the south, the land was so flat that the only AS we approached the island from the If a visit to Barbuda is on your radar, then a tour with one of the island’s local Barbuda is an island 30 miles north of Antigua; they form one nation. Although Barbuda is an island 30 miles north of a 20-foot shipping container, now entwined within the mangroves that had merely a 20-foot shipping container, now entwined within the mangroves that had merely kept on growing around it. The enormous metal vessel had flown three miles through was the air during Irma, an indication of the hurricane’s ferocity that George said nature. He spoke of Hurricane Irma, a bad memory most residents have tried to sup- nature. He spoke of Hurricane Irma, a bad memory most residents have tried to him. press; the experience of having the roof torn from above his head still haunts the He spoke of the land itself, which all Barbudans traditionally own in common, same land he fears will one day be exploited and developed the way so many other it natural beauties have been. His love for his island home was obvious; I could see his in his eyes. George is a man in his sixties who has been exploring the island whole life, and as his boat motored effortlessly through the shallows of the lagoon, it was clear he knew the place like the back of his wrinkled hand. thing alerting us to its existence was a strange mirage-like reflection in the sky. The thing alerting us to its existence was a strange little bumpy, due to the relatively shallow passage had been comfortable, if not a a pass between a shallow nine-foot bank waters between the two islands. Entering approach. With our seven-foot draft put- and the shore, we were nervous about our bottom, we crept our way along the natu- ting the keel a little too close to the sandy in Chris Doyle’s ral channel marked on the chart and described boat guides is an experience you can’t miss. George Geoffrey is the owner of a called to natural environment. George took pride in explaining that this colony, home the some 20,000 birds, is bigger than any other in the world, including that in Galapagos Islands. they are often referred to as the “Twin Islands” it took only moments in Barbuda to they are often referred to as the “Twin Islands” Dropping anchor just south of the figure that the two couldn’t be more dissimilar. shore, ours was one of only a handful of storm-destroyed hotel that still graces its hus- boats spaced hundreds of yards apart. With no other sign of civilization, my band, our three young sons and I dinghied to the beach to explore the great expanse of powdery white sand that lay before us. Despite its length, the beach was narrow, of and we looked over the brackish waters of the lagoon that lay behind the spit sand. In the distance was the island’s only settlement, the town of Codrington; almost destroyed by Hurricane Irma in 2017, it is still rebuilding to this day. Leeward Islands, Southern Edition hugging the shoreline, to the anchorage in the sky, we followed the 11-mile beach, we had witnessed in our 15 months of Lower Bay. The water was the most stunning deserves a name of its own. Barbuda Blue in the Caribbean, the color so vibrant it forget. is what I have coined it, a color I will never JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 True Blue, St George’s Grenada True Blue,StGeorge’s Grenada M in theLloydsmarket. able tointroduceboatownersspecialistbrokers with brokersandunderwritersatLloydsam business for47years.Ihavedevelopedarapport

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GUY DEAN CRUISERS’ VHFNETS signal maybeinterruptedor suspendedwithoutnotice. other WWVfrequencies,at thesamelevelofaccuracy.Asanexperimentalbroadcast, the25MHz on 25MHzanexperimental basis.ThebroadcastconsistsofthenormalWWV signalheardonall NEW experimental25MHz WWV broadcast:hasresumedcontinuoustime signalbroadcasting oflife-threateningorDISTRESSsituations. www.docksideradio.com/east_coast.htm Anyone,licensedornot,maylegallyoperateonHamanyother frequenciesintheevent • AmorecompletescheduleofEastCoastcruisingnets isavailableat HurricaneWatchNeton14325USB/Hamand3950LSB/Ham. 14300 • Incaseofmaritimeemergency,anyvesselindistress cancallthe24/7/365MaritimeMobileNeton USB/Ham. • Duringseveretropicalstormorhurricaneactivity,information canbefoundcontinuouslyonthe tionat18minutesaftereachhouron2500,5000, 10000,15000&20000(SwitchtoAMmode) Similarly,Chrislistensforemergencytrafficatthebeginningofeach ofhisweathernets. • WWVhasWorldMarineStormWarnings(Voice)at8 minutesaftereachhourandSolarFluxinforma- TIPS Pacificpassagemakers.Forscheduleupdatesseewww.mwxc.com wheretoaimhisantennareachyou.ThisnetisgearedprimarilyoffshoreAtlanticand Note 3: netat2300UTC/1900ASTon8137USB. WhenthereareactiveTropicalsystemsintheAtlantic,MarineWeatherCenter(Chris)runsa Note 2 LSB/Ham NMN,Chesapeake,4426,6501,8764,13089.NMG,NewOrleans,4316,8502,12788 Voice LSB/Ham Note 1 ** USB MaritimeMobileNet(Emergency, Weather&Assistance)14300USB/Ham USB(Notes1&2) USB * 3815 Voice 8137&12350 CaribEmergency&Weather 8152(or8146,8164) CaribandAtlWeather(Chris) 24/7/365 1830 Voice 0330 2330NOAA USB 8107&8167 7086 1800 USB(Note3) Voice CaribbeanCocktail&Weather 2230 USB USB(Note1) Offshore 2200 Voice 1730 USB Voice 2130 1730NOAA USB(Note1) Forecast USB A 8137&12350 PanamaConnectionNet Voice 2130 USB(Note1) Offshore A LSB/Ham W.CaribbeanWeather(Chris) ** 1530 1130NOAA 8137&12350 0930 CruizheimersNet 1400 1000Northwest Forecast** 0900 Offshore A E.CaribbeanWeather(Chris) 1330 6209 0830 Caribbean BahamasWeather(C6AGGCWardle)7096&3696 1300 Forecast** LSB/Ham 0830 USB(Note1) KPKCruisingSafety(sponsorSSCA)8104 1230 Voice Net 0820 USB 4045&8137 1230 0815 USB(Note1) Voice LSB USECoast,WAtlN&WofBermuda(Chris)8137&12350 1220 MODE LSB/Ham 1215 0730 TYPE BahamasWeather(Chris) 1145 0745Waterway 6215(uncontrolled1000-1200)USB Carib.Emergency&WeatherNet3815 1130 0630 Cruising 4045&8137 1100 0700Caribbean 7268 0630 E.CaribbeanWeather(Chris) 1030 Club 7250 Net DailyCaribbeanWeather 1030 0600 A NOAADailyOffshoreForecast** FREQ Voice 1030 0630Trinidad (Mon-Sat) STATION&REPORTDESCRIPTION 0600 LSB/Ham 1000 0530 Emergency 1000 AST* 3855 0930 Net UTC Corrections and commentsarewelcome. [email protected] Selected CaribbeanShortwave Atlantic StandardTime(AST)doesnotshifttoDSTinthesummerCaribbeanwaters. NOAA frequencies(inkHz): Weather ReportsSummer2019 Pes alMrn ete etr1 iue eoetents htCrskos : PleasehailMarineWeatherCenter15minutesbeforethenetsothatChrisknows : Unlesssevereweatherthreatens,thisnetisnotconductedonSundays. Thisnetlistensforemergency/humanitariancallsofanykind. We'll havealist ofselectedcruisers'VHF Netsinnextmonth's Compass ! JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21

Modern Mechanics An article from magazine, 1932

MODERN MECHANICS : http://weather.org/conversion.htm SOURCES WEATHER SELECTED ON-LINE ON-LINE SELECTED

NASA www.nws.noaa.gov/om/marine/zone/off/offnt3cmz.htm • Mike's Weather Page: www.spaghettimodels.com • WINDFinder: www.windfinder.com • ON Boards ON Line: www.onboardonline/weathertools • PassageWeather (provides seven-day wind, wave and weather forecasts • Weather Underground: www.wunderground.com/hurricane • www.windyty.com (wind speed & direction 14 days • Ventusky (similar to windyty): www.ventusky.com Weather Conversions • Buoyweather (free two-day forecasts in addition to paid-for • Chris Parker’s Marine Weather Center (listen free on daily SSB nets, • Crown Weather Services (provides a good Tropical Weather page • Storm Pulse (paid-for custom forecasts): www.stormpulse.com/atlantic • Caribbean Weather: http://weather.org/caribbean.htm • Caribbean Hurricane Network: www.stormcarib.com Caribbean National, Regional and Island Weather Websites Caribbean National, Regional and Island www.hidromet.com.pa/index.php General Weather Websites www.metoffice.gov.tt/radar • Trinidad & Tobago Weather Radar: USVI and Puerto Rico): • US National Weather Service (for www.srh.noaa.gov/sju Caribbean: • NOAA National Weather Service • NHC Offshore Reports: www.nhc.noaa.gov/marine/offshores.php (print out for offline reference): • Atlantic Hurricane Tracking Chart www.nhc.noaa.gov/pdf/tracking_chart_atlantic.pdf • NHC Marine Graphicast: In addition, surf and swell forecasts (great for those “iffy” anchorages) www.nhc.noaa.gov/marine/graphicast.php?basin=at#contentw.nws.noaa are provided at http://magicseaweed.com. • NOAA Climate Discussion: www.climate.gov/news-features Happy weather windows! • ABCs Weather: www.meteo.cw/rad_loop.php • Curaçao Met Department: www.meteo.cw www.meteofrance.gp/previsions-meteo-antilles-guyane/animation/radar/antilles • Barbados Weather Sattelite: http://barbadosweather.org/GOES16/Jiren_Satellite_Products.php • Martinique Weather Radar: Commercial Marine Weather Service Websites Hurricane Information Websites www.nhc.noaa.gov • US National Hurricane Center: • NHC Marine Weather Discussion: Although SSB radio weather forecasts are still indispensable, today, with WiFi so weather forecasts are still indispensable, Although SSB radio Although it’s been a long time since people tried to predict the weather by seeing long time since people tried to predict Although it’s been a “Red sky at night…” When was the last time you simply looked at the sky to fore- When was the last time you simply looked “Red sky at night…” to help sailors with passage planning and weather routing): passageweather.com in 3-hour increments) • Panama Weather (requires Adobe Flash, not Android compatible): www.nhc.noaa.gov/text/MIAMIMATS.shtml custom forecasts): www.buoyweather.com or subscribe for daily e-mails for your area): www.mwxc.com in addition to paid-for custom forecasts): www.crownweather.com/index.php/caribbean widely available in the Caribbean, increasing numbers of sailors get their weather Caribbean, increasing numbers of widely available in the that various Caribbean sources. Here we present a selection information from on-line (tested PC and Andoid tablet compatible). cruisers have recommended whether or not the groundhog went back in his hole, it has also been a while since went back in his hole, it has whether or not the groundhog warnings. The use of listened to WWV radio for marine storm mariners routinely by GRIB. has to a great extent been replaced once-popular weatherfax cast the next day’s weather? For that matter, when was the last time you tapped a last time you tapped a weather? For that matter, when was the cast the next day’s sailors’ attention. prediction occupies a large part of barometer? Yet weather JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 in PuertoRico. Elethea’s crew. Weseptuagenariansjumped shipto to Danielskippering Antigua, Isaid,“We’renotgoing yet.”Therewasa“discussion.”Foolishly,Iagreed swells, marchingacrosstheir excellentcharts.Thinkingaboutgettingbackto gusts inhigh20sandPassageWeatherhadstormyconditions, bothwindsand hippie turnedrealestateagent,cameonatighttimelimit. yacht skipper.KiwiSteveskippers lands inhisveryearlyteensandwaspullinghimselfintoaroleasprofessional entertainment headlinedbyUB40.Longstoryshort,weweresecondinclass.Again! regatta liveduptoitsreputation,with20-knotwinds,six-eight-footseas,and positions overthepreviousdecadeorso,butneveractuallywonit. way. Forsome,thisregattahadbecomepersonal—weachievedseveralpodium man, pitmenandthewomanwhoalwaysdoespoleup/downfromcompanion- dancers,” mastman,thebestheadsailtrimmerinbusiness,myusualmainsheet er’s dozeninall.Manyweretheusualsuspectsfrompreviousraceson Germans, Brits,AustraliansandCanadians—abak- job priortothisregatta. main andmatchingblade,nothinghigh-tech. crew. ByracingsailsImeanafullybattenedNorlam racing sailsandprovidedaccommodationforseveral Magic tings. Itwashard tocling clew blew.Aneven untidierreefwassetand otherstuffbroke,suchaslifeline fit- was notnice.Let’s saythree-metreswells,occasionally four,somebreaking. rest wenton the precedingThursdayafterarolly,windynight.The ness, andtheautomatic toiletsstoppedworking. However, just threeyears! did —ourhomemaderudderstayedontheboat than one,itdidindeedgofastertheoriginal lined andinairplanewingsection.Inmoreways tion wasgiventothenewrudder:balanced,stream- where areplacementwasfabricated.Greatatten- we figuredouthowtogetherbackJollyHarbour, two weeksonamooringattheMillReefClubwhile of 50-millimetrestainlessstock. and thebladecameoffclean,leavingjust14inches Yacht Club’sRoundIslandRace.Theweldsletgo off Man-O-WarPointwiththeleadersinAntigua 30 YearsOld,andBestAntiguanBoat. Antigua SailingWeekwithfourfirsts:CSA6,6and7combined,BestBoatOver 6, hercrewhavewontrophiesinAntiguaandSt.Maarten.In2011wecleanedup above itsCSAhandicap.Usuallycompetingwithstreet-fightingsailorsinClass for TheMooringschartercompany,downtoaprice.It’sgreatdesign,knownrace above itsCSAhandicap Elethea Aboard Winds andseashadelevatedduringtheregattauntilWindguru wasadvertising Dark andStormyNight Key crewincludedDaniel,SteveandJohan.DanwenttoseaoffDominica’sCarib Famous forstrongbreezes,warmandchoppyseas,greataprès-sailparties,the Black, white,young,old,maleandfemale,Kiwis, Motley Crew I tookfivecrewandcleared Water wasfoundintherudderduringbottom For 2017weweregracedwithamothership, 2017 St.MaartenHeinekenRegatta The firsttimeherrudderdetached, S/Y Elethea Harbingers When Isaysolo,meanjusttheboat.Nobodyonit.Here’showithappened. , anearlynew54-footHanse,whichcarriedour inaction.TheBeneteauFirst38isagreatdesign,knownto race ship’spapers,soIremained as“Captain.”Thatturnedouttobehelpful Magic Magic isamuch-usedBeneteauFirst38from1983.Hundredsweremade , wedepartedPhillipsburgat1700 hours,anhourbehind , orLIAT. Elethea Magic’s forthereturndelivery,with SteveandJohanas Elethea large,flatdeck. Downbelowtherewasseasick- Kialoa III Elethea inPhillipsburg Elethea enjoyed , afamousmaxi.Johan,theGerman Magic was S/Y . Wehadneglectedtoupdate Magic’s engine,autohelm Solo to Puerto Elethea Elethea Rico by RichardGormley Magic’s : “pole . It

had loststeering,Ithought—hopedforasecondortwothathewasjoking. at around1100hoursand15nauticalmilessouthofSt.Barts.WhenDansaidthey we wereglimpsing on there-fittedrollerandanundersizedmain,apersonalfavouriteofmine. of thingandIhadprevailedonDantofitdeliverysails—aheavy,high-cutYankee and advancedelectronicsneverfaltered.Paul,herAustralianskipper,wasbrilliant. worst decisionofhiscareer.Itwas,course,myfault. mission toabandonship.ThedecisionwastakenandDanwouldlatersayitthe ic. “Saveyourlives.Taketotheliferaft.”Gratuitously,ItoldDanielhehadmyper- long thecruiseschedule. Zenith at 20knots.”Towingwasobviouslyoutofthequestion,andindireconditions word “tow.”Imayhavedetectedaslightnoteofsarcasm:“WearegoingtoAntigua tion withSt.Bartsandme.Heaskedwhathecoulddo.mentionedthe cruise liners,butstillreassuringlybig.Herskipperstartedathree-wayconversa- Zenith Rico’s CustomsandCoastGuard hadsearched nautical milesin11days.Solo. e-mail fromaJorgeSantiagoinPuertoRicowasindeedwelcome: Elethea Canada. TheCoastGuardputoutanoticeontheircommunication systemsincase needed forpeopletore-enterAntiguaand/orcatchtheirflights backtoEuropeor and Immigration,theCoastGuard.Veryhelpful.We gotallthestampswe tion inmyname, theyfiguredoutIwas through thedetails inDaniel’skit,recordsthey haveformyselfandtheUK registra- Daniel’s Coastal Skipperlicenceinhispersonal kitandcontactedtheRYA.Somehow, Although muchlarger, Conditions on As wellasefficientlydeployingtheliferaft,theyletallanchorchainandrode It wasme.Imentioned A dayortwolaterIhadane-mail fromtheUK’sRoyalYachtingAssociation.Puerto A photoattachedtoJorge’se-mail confirmedthat I foundEletheaat12milesSouth coastofPuertoRico.It’snowinPonce. Subject: Lostboatfound! Sent: 16March201715:35 I alsocontactedsailingmediawithapleatoe-mailiftheyhad news.Thefollowing Ship’s papers,withpassports,werereturnedtome.Imet with AntiguaCustoms wasnotabouttolaunchandrecoverasuitablerescueboat,ordelaytoo couldbeseenapproachingfromthenortheast.Okay,nothugestof shouldturnup. Elethea Elethea’s musthavebeengruelling.However,hercrewlikethatsort Elethea’s Magic mastheadtricolour.IwasbytheVHFandtookcall enough, ataround0200hoursonMarch6th, from hisAIS.“Thatboatis512metreslong!”Sure that arescueboatwasonitsway.Paullookedup wanted tohearandshoutedacross boat hasdivertedtoyourposition.”Iheardwhat stand by’tilmorning. ing. “Thereisnooneavailable.” our position.Askedwhatwewanted,Imentionedtow- like. Herepeatedlyasked,andwasconsistentlygiven, Barts Coastguardanswered.Youngchap,itsounded not nice.Iputouta“panpan.”EventuallytheSt. line broke.Rainofthehorizontalvariety—asIsaid, the boatsbuckedinoppositedirectionsandtow- towline bridledto ing ajuryrudder,maybe. abate orbreakouttoolsandspendmanyhoursmak- sheet winches.”Ifyouwaitdaysfortheweatherto sails” or“poleoverthetransom”“droguebridledto with norudderinthoseconditions.Notby“usingthe rolled inandmainsecuredontheboom. firmed wewereclose.Sooncouldsee asked forthemastheadlighttobetoggled.Thatcon- washavingtroublecatchingup,thecrewunsureif An hourlater,St.BartscamebackontheVHF.“A Rescue! Fair enough,noimmediatemortaldanger.Wewill On thethirdattempt,Dangotholdoffenderwith Let mebeclear:thereisnowayyoucansteeraboat liferaft. before weoldpeopleon a steakdinnerandhotshowerthreedays the youngprofessionalson We returnedtoAntiguatwodayslater.So age inGustavia,St.Barts,wherewerested. really frightened. whole livesanyofthemhadeverbeen ted thatthispartwastheonlytimeintheir Johan toaloadingdoor.Theylateradmit- ful passes,wasabletohaulDan,Steveand between yachtandraftand,afterthreeskil- was twoorthreeknots.Finally, raft tooutrun made itinoperative. largely uselessaswateronthetouchscreen liferaft wasrecordedbutthephone to bewaterproofasadvertised.Videointhe — andDaniel’ssmartphone,whichproved with theship’spapersandhandheldVHF over andthelightson,grabbedbag shallow water.Theylefttheengineticking down, tocatchif small amongthebigbluebitsonchart. such seemedremote—islandslooksovery es ofahappyoutcomearoundSabaorsome Other predictionsweremade,butthechanc- would gonorthwestattwoorthreeknots. tions remainedwellpastmid-March. Elethea smartphones, andstudiedthetrackof critical, misguidedandunhelpful. not therevolunteeredtalk—toomuchofit gear orbeingscared.Later,peoplewhowere and didn’tsaytoomuchaboutlostpersonal in JollyHarbour.Participantsdrankrum Elethea’s Quite areunionitwaswhen Lost BoatFound Magic It tookanagonisinglylongtimeforthe Daniel andJohanhadNavionicsontheir Zenith’s onthatstormynight.Thesecondi- hadadifficulttimefindinganchor- Magic’s owner. responsewasrapidandemphat- Elethea Elethea Elethea’s sheetwinches.Prettysoon —Continued on nextpage Elethea thoroughlyandfound hadcovered230-odd rateofdrift,which Magic shouldgetinto Magic’s Elethea . Magic Elethea

Zenith enjoyed cockpit berthed Elethea M/V , jib got JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 had a in slings in slings (2003,2011,2012) (2006,2004,2017) (1988,1997,1998) (2015,2017&2018) Elethea IBEX Innovation Award IBEX Innovation IMTEC Innovation Award IMTEC Innovation Elethea NMMA Innovation Award NMMA Innovation Gerry and I greatly It took three hours It took three to re-fit the rudder. the rudder. to re-fit up and Jorge showed out on the helped. Back mooring, I re-inspected everything, including the rig. at last googly to throw us. The forestay claw — heavy stainless fabrication — was cracked. You could see daylight through the part that curves around the clev- is pin. Antonio was non-committal. Gerry too said “You worry set much,” and we about victualling and taking a trial sail. enjoyed the whole experience, and beating out of Ponce was a wonderful feeling. However, we’re talking two old St. Thomas, where later St. Thomas, spend recov- we were to ery time. with guys with no cooking facility, damp beds and entering the harbour, by 868-222-6590 (473) 423-1201 (592) 233-0543 (787) 860-3757 Boating Industry Magazine Top Product Boating Industry Magazine Top was now an honest boat again, Magic Grenada – North Yacht Shop – North Yacht Grenada Guyana – General Equipment Ltd. Guyana Service Center PR- Wally Castro Marine Castro Wally PR- Service Center Trinidad and Tobago – C3 Marina Limited and Tobago Trinidad Elethea , was very kind and helpful. I had crewed I had and helpful. very kind , was is on the coach roof. Consider conventional into a berth, I saw touched the dock, he was gone. Couldn’t get to that touched the dock, he was gone. Couldn’t Elethea’s S/Y Marie Elena S/Y Marie Magic Elethea (345) 943-2005 (599) 701-3200 (441) 295-9950 (599) 9-563-0933 Curacao – Marine Zone Bonaire – Marine Center Bonaire Bermuda - The Marine Locker Cayman – Cayman Power Sports Power – Cayman Cayman Lessons Learned If you do, don’t underestimate the • Don’t go to sea with a homemade rudder. be said to be an accident. Losing it twice • Losing your rudder blade once might steering system. Okay, they are • Carry an RORC-type independent replacement • If the skipper thinks it may be unwise to put to sea, don’t persuade him otherwise. • Carry a working liferaft and don’t be shy about using it. Put it in an easily acces- • Don’t rely on smartphones, even if they are waterproof. • The people are the boat. Sailing adventures turn out happily if crew and friends Next time I turned around, Gerry was in his clean shirt, bag packed and standing Next time I turned around, Gerry was in Jaws unlocked somewhat during our two nights’ stay on Nick’s mooring in Druif Jaws unlocked somewhat during our two not relying on temporary paperwork. Sailing in company past St. Maarten and the not relying on temporary paperwork. Sailing was a doddle. scene of the accident south of St. Barts strain on spade rudders in a brisk seaway. begins to look like carelessness! do not work unless you are in flat water, expensive, but all other methods simply for days or wait even longer for weath- or have no choice but to work on a solution er to abate. sible spot, and do not lock it. to wisdom — never step down into a liferaft, stay with the boat — but be willing adjust to circumstances. work together. chance a fully coordinated rendezvous. “This boat is blessed,” I said. chance a fully coordinated rendezvous. in the scuppers. Soon as enough. I didn’t blame him and I also hot shower and comfortable bunk fast unclenched as we cleared into British waters. of a 48-foot charter yawl, yawl, charter of a 48-foot anchor including gear, replacement much of the managed He a few times. for him Amalie, Charlotte ball in mooring for his private gave coordinates and and liferaft, a lot of mildew. Nobody was complaining, but faced with five or six days and nights, a lot of mildew. Nobody was complaining, one could almost hear jaws being clenched. motorsail from there over to the BVI where, Bay, Charlotte Amalie. It was a gentle looking up from settling Don’t underestimate the strain on spade rudders Don’t underestimate the strain on spade in a brisk seaway

on a mooring on a mooring from Road Town to Elethea 340-277-3968 (340) 277-6603 (721) 544-4733 (284) 494-2516 Elethea St. Thomas – REV Marine St. Maarten – FKG Marine – FKG St. Maarten Tortola, BVI – Int’l Marine BVI Tortola, St. Croix – Bryan’s Marine Dealership – Bryan’s St. Croix is not listed. She is UK registered. I showed I showed is not listed. She is UK registered. near Coffin Island while fishing with a friend. He went near Coffin Island while IS THE #1 choice for boating Elethea

Elethea was mine again! (787) 262-6273 (787) 239-2014 (787) 899-0670 (787) 999-2411 to Road Town, Tortola, which is in British jurisdiction. He was nearly PR – Botes del Norte PR – Botes PR – Del Caribe Marine topsides. I guess they’d looked first at Canadian registration records and Canadian registration records and topsides. I guess they’d looked first at Elethea visit us at: PR – Marina Vistas De Parguera Magic PR – Caribe Distributor & Service, Inc. PR – Caribe Distributor www.suzukipr.com www.suzukipr.com Continued from previous page previous page from Continued Many good friends were so very helpful, kind and enthusiastic. Paul agreed to Many good friends were so very helpful, kind and enthusiastic. Paul agreed Visa requirements for the USA turned out to be a problem. Several friends would Visa requirements for the USA turned out Homeward Bound to be sent to Florida and a new rudder It took two months for the rudder shaft Antonio and I came up with plans to make the boat seaworthy, starting with drop- Antonio and I came up with plans to make Friends and the Coast Guard in Antigua had briefed me about the Lloyds’ for- Guard in Antigua had briefed me Friends and the Coast My heart sank when I went aboard. Pulpit bent, front hatch stove in, and other I went aboard. Pulpit bent, front hatch My heart sank when The cheapest hotel I could find is a Spanish colonial gem, the Belgica. Antonio Roig gem, the Belgica. is a Spanish colonial hotel I could find The cheapest I took the next plane to San Juan and enjoyed the day’s drive across the island. day’s drive across and enjoyed the next plane to San Juan I took the Again, massive thanks to the authorities in Puerto Rico and the RYA, who were con- who were and the RYA, Rico in Puerto the authorities thanks to massive Again, Salvage Santiago, an energetic commenced in a coffee shop. Jorge Next morning, business Suzuki Caribbean Marine &RPELQHVSRZHUIXHOH˺FLHQF\DQGUHOLDELOLW\IRUWKH ultimate boating experience. experts and enthusiasts in the Caribbean. SUZUKI MARINE killed in the rush of young sailors volunteering to crew Antigua. Peter, a good friend and that regular mainsheet man I was telling you Antigua. Peter, a good friend and that regular mainsheet man I was telling about, loaned me detailed charts and we picked out stopovers in the Spanish Virgins. It would, of course, be an upwind sail. Nick, an American skipper and owner bring have loved to crew on the return sail. But there were no US nationals among them, have loved to crew on the return sail. But to Puerto Rico with no ticket out and no and considerable nervousness about flying may, I had to go. I hoped ownership and visible means of support. Come what would help me avoid wearing an ill-fitting Customs clearance documents in my name I let it be known I would, if necessary, orange jumpsuit. After a few days’ impasse, — a bush pilot on leave from Angola, where solo the boat as far as BVI. Enter Gerry over the challenges of the upcoming voy- he flies generals and ministers. We talked age, but it’s not easy to spook Gerry. Not for the last time I heard him say, “You worry too much.” project management and dealt superbly with transport, Customs duty and receiving project management and dealt superbly replacement equipment. fabricated — by a professional firm this time. Antonio was a diamond throughout. fabricated — by a professional firm this feats performed, but he also took on local Not only were engineering and repair Customs clearance in and out of St. Maarten, which fortunately had my name as which fortunately had my name as Customs clearance in and out of St. Maarten, who was on the boat when it came into skipper, and my passport number. “So, fingering his pistol. “Sir,” I said, “as I American waters?” asked Officer Colon, Eventually, however, the papers got mentioned, there was no one on board.” signed. I arranged to build another rudder, Antonio ping the rudderstock into the sea. While other stuff such as roller-furler and bimini would re-glass the front hatch and fix ground tackle and — you guessed frame. I would buy replacement items including awful lot to do, driving from Ponce, it felt it — a liferaft. Although there was still an like we were already on our way home. become suspicious, as mula: between 20 and 30 percent of the salved value. We haggled a price, plus a haggled a price, plus a 30 percent of the salved value. We mula: between 20 and from the Ponce author- Jorge had temporary clearance papers fee for the towboat. Immigration. Jorge was even more defer- ities. Together, we visited Customs and Colon was not happy, and particu- ential and apprehensive than I was. Officer which I had failed to remove from larly threatening about the word “Toronto” Elethea’s damage including broken roller-furler and bimini frame. It was worse below: water roller-furler and bimini frame. It damage including broken other stuff all over the and ruined clothes, food and slopping above the floorboards, dinghy and out- was intact, including the tin-bottom place. However, all equipment looked salvageable. board. The batteries aboard. The jib was unfurled, and the anchor missing. An attempt at towing failed unfurled, and the anchor missing. An aboard. The jib was Jorge’s boat. He stayed dire conditions and unsuitability of because of the still towboat. until his friend was able to bring a professional aboard for six hours, met me by arrangement and we got along famously. He is calm and well organized, He is calm and got along famously. arrangement and we met me by and Yacht of Ponce Fishing engineer and a member a semi-retired a sailor himself, glimpse of helped me get a failing light Antonio Club. In the Ponce is wonderful, slow and kindly after San Juan. kindly after San Juan. slow and Ponce is wonderful, cerned to return Daniel’s licence and confirm the boat was in Ponce. Very helpful. in Ponce. the boat was confirm licence and Daniel’s to return cerned the view prevailed that I initially took a strong line. Eventually Latino family man, salvage. Jorge told me and her equipment before discussing needed to see the boat that he came across — the back of the club. ball around JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 Then, asthevoiceofreason,Ichimedintocastmy choices laybetweenSeawindandJamesWharram. work. Andynarroweditdowntotwocompanies.Our more motivatedbeonafull-packageboat.Sowesetto of themonohullgrandprixinourbackyard,we’reeven you, Lagoon).Nowthatwehavethe(future)equivalent sails well—notafloatingapartment(I’mlookingat er, andmorecomfortablethaneverbefore. high-performance cruisingboats.They’relighter,fast- technology inmindandareprovingthemselvesas market forareason.Theyaredesignedwithnewest marans haveissadlyunderestimated—it’sagrowing the regattaorganizertoldmethatpotentialcata- compass.com/online/april19compass_online.pdf Challenge [ Maarten justhelditsfirstannualCaribbeanMultihull fastest growingmarketintheboatindustry.St. another hull. Caribbean islands,whereit’srainingcats:wewanted change. Anditwasachangeripplingthroughallofthe Maarten-based lives,wedecideditwastimefora Hurricane IrmaputamassivedentintoourSt. was theonlyreasonhehadacomputer).After sailed one.Foryears,Andyresearchedcats(infact,it maran fantasy—eventhoughneitherofushadever However, mypartnerAndyandIwerestuckinacata- engineless tallship. long rumdeliveryaboard Maarten HeinekenRegattaonaVolvo70,andweek- Tangier IslandinChesapeakeBay,racingtheSt. monohulls. Theseincludesailingtotheinfamous I amnosaltyseadog,butMargosurelyis. found thatitwassimultaneouslystrangeandfun.So aboard a44-footCaribbeanSailingYacht(CSY)and sailing lifeonlyafewyearsago.Wetestedoursealegs ally andnautically.MydogMargoIstartedour by GOING TOTHECATS Chelsea Pyne Our aimwastofindawell-designed,safeboatthat In fact,catamaransaretippingthescalesas For threeyearsIwasstrictlyamonohullgal. All ofmyearlyexperiencesonboatswereaboard I’ve neverbeenacatperson.Imeanthatbothliter- see reportonpage18atwww.caribbean- Johnsons Hardware Rodney Bay, St.Lucia Tres Hombres, anold-school, ], and z FOR YOUR MARINE SUPPLIESANDSOMUCHMORE Lubricants &Oils Bilge Pumps Marine Hoses Electric Wire Anchors &Fenders Chain &Rope overwhelmed withtheirguidancethatwords learned theoddsandendsofacatamaran.Iwasso friends andmentors.Byjottingnotesinmybook,I over thenextfewweeks,AnnandAlecbecameour we wouldfeelthesameona happy tosharestoriesandadvice. an 11.5-yearcircumnavigation,theyweremorethan come aboardtheirSeawind1160thatafternoon.After Zealand welcomedoursurprisevisitandinvitedusto and wenttogreet — aSeawind.Laterthatday,wehoppedinourdinghy immediately spottedafamiliarimage Maarten’s SimpsonBayLagoon.Andy we weredrivingonabridgeoverSt. ting acat,butwhichbreed,exactly? room toplay.Sowewerehookedonget- boat; MargoandIwantedcomfort the porthelm. still beabletosteerbothrudderswith rudder tothestarboardhelm,youwill the cablesbreakfromstarboard steer theboatwitheitherwheel.Orif you losetheportrudder,canstill rudders arelinkedtoeachother.So,if wheel tothestarboardrudder.Thetwo of course,andthestarboardsteering wheel isconnectedtotheportrudder, having twohelms.Theportsteering protected fromtheelements. danger offallingfromthehelmposition,andwe’llstay and thecockpit,sonostepstoclimbupdown.No deck, andthehelmisonsamelevelassaloon therefore asmoothersail.Thebunksareonthebridge which makeslessresistancethroughthewaterand sion: Seawindhullsaremorestreamlinedandnarrow, ence. Weweighedtheoptionsandcametoourconclu- vote alongsideSeawind’s35yearsofbuildingexperi-

The bottomlinewas—theylovetheir Our querywasansweredonedayas But wedidn’tjustwantagreatsail- Another wonderfulsafetyfeatureis Tel: (758)4520300

Shamal . AnnandAlecofNew Shamal z ofourown.So, [email protected] Shamal Antifouling Paint Fishing Gear Snorkeling Equipment Flares &LifeJackets Stainless Fittings Stainless Fasteners —and and Alecsporting a roughday,weweresailingfastandrockingaway. about thespaciousgalleywithease.Althoughitwasn’t hulls, itislowerandthereforemovesless.Irummaged ly comfortable.Becausethegalleyisinoneof handle acat’skitchen.Tomysurprise,Iwasextreme- relationship, Iwenttothegalleyfeeloutifcould how itwaslikewhileunderway.Asheadchefofmy one thing: would liketoaboutthedynamicsofsailing.ButIknew for me,andIputusoffcourseafewtimes. fixing thelines.Ofcourse,thiswastestingnewwaters threw mebehindthehelmandranaboutwithAnn took off.Innotimeweweredoingeightknots.Alec her newrigging.Wehoistedthesailandimmediately little spinaroundSt.Maarten’sSimpsonBaytotest as muchroombefore. to receivetheboat—littledidIknowthere’stentimes so manythingsbeforepackingupandflyingtoMiami of roomwehaveisunbelievable.TothinkIgaveaway Although it’ssixfeetshorterthanourCSY,theamount later, wesetfooton enquiring aboutourfuturetogether.Ninemonths Andy aboutthesuccessfultrial,andonetoSeawind play fetch—partofourdailyroutine. cockpit, there’sagreateropportunitytowrestleand cat shewillaccept.Withmoreroominthesaloonand didn’t consultMargo,butIhaveafeelingthisisone unable tomakeitbackintime.SoImet crossing theCaribbeanonaBali40deliveryandwas to jointhem,andIgiddilyaccepted.Andywasbusy time foratestdrive.Wereceivedane-mailinvitingus Shamal season, ittookmuchlongerthanexpected.Butatlast, the islandwasstillreelingfrompasthurricane Maarten sotheycouldgetsomeitemsfixed.Because around andletustest-tryherhome. room, butthatwaslaidtorestonceAnnshuffledus original fearwasthatwewouldnothaveenoughhead- turned toscribblesasIracedgetitallonpaper.Our After abeautifullittlesailandtheconfidenceofAnn As anewbiecruiser,Idon’tknownearasmuch When Ireturnedhome,senttwoe-mails.Oneto Ann andAlecendedupextendingtheirstayinSt. hadhermaintenancecompletedanditwas Shamal Shamal feltgood.Iwentbelowdeckstosee ruff above water,together.It’sa actually mattersisthatwe’re sure she’llshakeitoff.Allthat she neverdidonamonohull),I’m sail poorMargogotseasick(which home. Althoughonourfirsttest Stardust This boatimmediatelyfeelslike life! , Idecidedtotaketheleap. Marine Plywood Houseware &Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes , ourownSeawind1160. Shamal fora ruff JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 ible eachnightfromMay19thtoJuly2nd.Themeteorswillradiateoutofanarea of activity.Someshootingstarsassociatedwiththeshowerareexpectedtobevis- found slightlyaboveandtotherightofMarsMercury. the brighteststarsinGemini,PolluxandCastor.Theycanbe rate thetwoplanetswithbinoculars.Nearthisconjunctionare point oflighttothenakedeye.Itmayevenbedifficultsepa- need apairofbinocularstospotSaturn. right nexttoSaturn.Bothobjectsappearveryclose,soyoumay position eastwardinthenightsky.TonightMoonislocated June 17th. the Moonapproachesfull.TheFulloccursat0430on through 21st. Vega intheconstellationLyra.ThisshowerisactiveJune11th Look fortheshootingstarsthatappeartocomefromstar of theScorpion,Antares. the linebetweenMoonandJupiteryouwillfindHeart in theconstellationOphiuchus.Ifyoulookabitfartheralong slightly aboveandrightoftheMoon.Bothobjectsaresituated rise. AstheskiescontinuetodarkenJupiterbeginsappear visible tothenakedeye,October3rd,1264,popedied. day foroveronemonth.Onthefinalthatcometwas stretched over100degreesoftheskycouldbeseenduring when PopeUrbanIVallegedlyfellill.Thecometwithatailthat findings tothechurch?ThecometwasfirstspottedinJuly was theunluckypapalastronomerthathadtoreportthese Urban IV,theheadofCatholicChurchsince1261.Who This apparitionwasthoughttoannouncethedeathofPope it bringmisfortune,flood,diseases,achangeinleadership,ortheendofworld? “guest star”wasviewableforalmosttwoyearsinthenightsky. ed onit.Forexample,theycouldbeexecutedforfailuretopredictaneclipse.The battle. Astronomersofthetimekeptmeticulousrecordsbecausetheirlivesdepend- told futureeventssuchasthedeathofapowerfulrulerorpotentialsuccessin observable throughoutthedaylighthoursfor23days.Celestialmanifestationsfore- brightest intensityonJuly4thintheyearofHorse(also1054).Thevisionwas star” ornewstarsuddenlyappearedintheeast.Theblazingapparitionreachedits month inthesecondyearofTenkireignperiod(orMay29,1054)whena“guest Mid-July Mid-June to The Skyfrom The Ophiuchidmeteorshowerwillreachitsmaximumrate Thursday, June20th Low inthewesternskyMercuryandMarswillappearasone Compared tothebackgroundstars,Moonhasshiftedits Tuesday, June18th As thenightprogressespastmidnightandintomorning June 16thalsomarksthepeakofLyridsmeteorsshower. Twilight hasbegun.InafewminutestheMoonwillbeginto Sunday, June16th–Monday,17th Then therewastheGreatCometof1264.Whatthiscometforetelling?Would It wasjustanothermorningafterthemiddleten-dayperiodoffourthlunar wwww.bocasboatyard.com •[email protected] “The Undiscovered Caribbean” Undiscovered “The w wwww.bocasmarina.com •[email protected] w w . b w o . c b Full ServiceMarina•CalypsoCantina a o s c U U SafeHaveninParadise Bocas Marina b Haul Out Yard •60-Ton Travelift a o BBocas DelToro, Panama s a m o t y a d d c a r i r a i i n d s a . c .

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b b b b b b b b IMAGE 1 ESO/YURI BELETSKY h y ° o a 14’.45”W o h . o c o o . m c o ” ” m straight aboveyourhead. spot someshootingstarsisafter2000hourswhentheymaybeseenstreaking Scutids meteorshowerisactivefromJune2ndthroughJuly29th.Thebesttimeto sunrise thismorning,knowthatatmomenttheMoonhasreachedthirdquarter. Look forMercurytobelocatedjustaboveMars. Earth. BecauseitisawayfromtheSunwillbeeasytospotasskiesdarken. tance toSyene,hecalculatedtheEarth’scircumference. on thesolstice.UsinganglemeasuredfromashadowinAlexandriaanddis- Egypt. InAlexandria,wherehelived,knewtheSunwasneverdirectlyoverhead omer EratrosthenesobservedthattheSunwasdirectlyoverheadatnooninSyene, years agoknewthattheEarthwasasphere.OnSummerSolstice,Greekastron- or approximately23.5degreesnorth. most northernpointinthesky.ItszenithorhighisovertropicofCancer gest amountofdaylight.FromourperspectiveonEarththeSunhasreachedits appear from. shower whenyoulookabout40degreesawayfromtheareaofskymeteors just northeastofJupiter.Youcanspotthemostshootingstarsfromanymeteor the sky.JustimagineGreatCometof1264’stailspanning100degrees In thisimagecometLovejoyhadatailthatstretchedonlytento20degreesacross To thenorthofJupiterthereisavariablemeteorshowerpeakingtonight.TheJune Thursday, June27th The MoonwillrisejustafewminutesaftermidnightinPisces.Whenandifyouseethe Tuesday, June25th Mercury hasreacheditsgreatestseparationfromtheSunourperspectiveon Sunday, June23rd Contrary tosomecurrentinformationontheinternet,astronomersover2000 Astronomical summer,thelongestdayof2019,hasarrived.Thislon- Friday, June21st appear in the Rick’s DiveWorld Prop Scan Power Boatsoffice Peake’s Trading Members Only-MaxiTaxiService Marc OneMarineSupplies Immigration office Gittens Electropics Echo Marine Dynamite YachtManagementServices Customs office Crews InnHotel Coral CoveMarinaoffice Caribbean MarineElectrical C3 Marina Budget Marine Ahoy, Caribbean Compass Power Boats Power Boats Peake’s chandlery Peake’s restaurant Coral Covehardware Coral CoveCornerPost Compass bold PICK UP! ): Readers!WheninTrinidad,pickupyourfreemonthlycopyof grocery restaurant atanyoftheselocations(advertisersinthisissue YSATT TTSA Tropical Marineoffice Tank &Fuel Sweet WaterMarina office —Continued onnextpage JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27

IMAGE 3 NASA, ESA, J HESTER AND A LOLL (ARIZONA STATE UNIVERSITY) IMAGE 4 NASA/NOAA IMAGE 5 NASA/NOAA . ! s r A e . s i u S r . c

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S/V Merengue Time Out Boat Yard Saint Martin Fiberglass + Epoxy & Polyester Resins Epoxy primer + Polyurethane Top Coat BOAT PAINT & STUFF Above: The supernova shining as bright as a Full Moon in China’s pre-dawn sky Above: The supernova shining as bright on July 4th, 1054 the remnant of SN 1054 Top right: A current image of the Crab Nebula, Hurricane Maria Center right: Lights of Puerto Rico prior to after the hurricane. Bottom right: Lights of Puerto Rico four months Hurricane Maria’s path in red Continued from previous page previous page from Continued Jim Ulik of All times are given as Atlantic Standard Time (AST) unless otherwise noted. The times are based on All times are given as Atlantic Standard Time (AST) unless otherwise noted. The In the News (SNPP) is designed The NASA/NOAA Suomi National Polar-Orbiting Partnership satellite program Monday, July 15th as it once again takes up with Saturn. Both bodies rise The Moon has come full circle this period Friday. July 12th - Saturday, July 13th July 12th. Just out of reach of the scorpion’s claws sits A triangle of celestial bodies is in the sky East of the Moon you will find Jupiter near Antares. A little further eastward sits Saturn in the East of the Moon you will find Jupiter Tuesday, July 9th Follow the line marking the separation between the dark The Moon is currently at third quarter. Friday, July 5th can be found low in the western sky just above the As the sky begins to darken Mars and Mercury Thursday, July 4th July Thursday, days it would next few Over the in the sky. brighten to object beginning an unusual seeing Imagine a viewing position in Grenada and may vary by only a few minutes in different Caribbean locations. a viewing position in Grenada and may vary by only a few minutes in different Caribbean to study Earth’s changing climate system and its effects on weather, ecosystems, oceans, land use to study Earth’s changing climate system and its effects on weather, ecosystems, series of incidental and the atmosphere and how that all affects human populations. In April a SNPP Maria on the island’s observations over Puerto Rico were released showing the effects from Hurricane history. electric grid. Lasting nearly one year, the outage is the longest blackout in US in the east-southeast located in Sagittarius. in the east-southeast located in Sagittarius. the Moon alongside Antares and Jupiter. The Moon has slipped by the grasp of Scorpius and is now the Moon alongside Antares and Jupiter. comfortably next to Jupiter. Milky Way. and bright side of the Moon towards the south-southwest. A short distance away you will spot Spica and bright side of the Moon towards the imaginary line in the other direction to identify the double the brightest star of Virgo. Extend that star Arcturus. horizon. Mercury is south of Mars. As the Moon continues its eastern progression it takes its spot near horizon. Mercury is south of Mars. As the age is also expressed in days from New Moon to New Regulus. Besides its geologic age the Moon’s sky is three and one half days old. When the Moon Moon. The sliver Moon setting in the western reaches 29.5 days old it will begin anew. become so bright and large that it would be visible during the daylight hours for months. What would hours for months. What during the daylight it would be visible bright and large that become so their other the event along with and Japan recorded in China Eleventh century astronomers you think? by a doc- rediscovered in 1731 dimmed only to be the nebula they saw Over time celestial observations. super- that the 1054 Bevis. It was hypothesized named John researcher and astronomer tor, electrical in this in Image 3. Other stars Crab Nebula shown the ever-expanding in Image 2 created nova event and Rigel. Betelgeuse, Antares at any time are to go supernova sky that have the potential area of the — JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 August 2012issueoftheVirginiaCommonweath South Americaovertheopenocean.Asreportedin tinent, butalsotookapreviouslyunknownrouteto four Alaskanwhimbrelsnotonlyflewacrossthecon- ously believed. western populationtravelmuchfartherthanprevi- Her flightdemonstratedthatwhimbrelsfromthe East CoasttotheMackenzieRiverdeltainAlaska. nental flightfromtheDelmarvaPeninsulaonUS biologists byembarkingona3,200-miletransconti- Winnie, whoduringhernorthernmigrationsurprised held beliefs.Onesuchexampleisawhimbrelnamed Some ofthesewhimbrelshavechallengedsomelong- of thespecies’migrationanditsmanychallenges. satellite transmittersinordertostudythedynamics of curlew numbers, itisthemostwidespreadofalleightspecies treeline, protestingmypresence walked slowlythroughthemudnearmangrove favourite prey—thefiddlercrab.Indeed, looks andpausingnowthentoprobeforhis Numenius mene cent sliverofthenewmoon,andcalledbird sons —indeed,ancientGreekslikenedittothecres- however, thissamebillevokedmorepoeticcompari- it isknownasthe‘’elephantbird‘’.InancientGreece, long, down-curvedbillisevocativeofelephants,hence people ofawhimperingdog.ToinMalaysia,the derives fromitscall,whichintimespastreminded descriptive names.Forexample,theEnglishname been, throughouttheages,objectofvarious as berries,flowers,lichensandmosses. he alsoeatsbeetles,worms,fliesandspiders,aswell brates, atthebreedinggroundsandduringmigration grounds hisdietconsistsmainlyofmarineinverte- fiddler crab’sburrow.Althoughinhiswintering bill hasevolvedspecificallytofollowthecurvatureofa Biology ern SouthAmericaandBrazil. Bay area,thatmigratestotheWestIndies,northeast- and aneasternbreedingpopulationintheHudson that wintersonthePacificcoast,fromOregontoChile, breeding populationinwesternCanadaandAlaska race hastwodistinctbreedinggrounds,withawestern cies, knownastheHudsonianCurlew.Typically,this cus are visitedbytheNorthAmericanrace slight variationsincolourandsize.IntheAntilleswe species separatedgeographically,eachpresenting mangrove swampsallovertheworld,withfoursub- south coastofGrenada Woburn Bay,amarineprotectedarealocatedonthe of bill,tolandonthefarsideamangroveinletin took totheairwithlongpointedwingsandaheadfull mangrove swampasawhimbrel,

In 2012,whimbrelssurprisedbiologistsyetagain,as A melancholic Although thisspeciesvisitstheWestIndiesinsmall Dressed inbrownandstraw-accentedplumage,he With itsunusuallooksandvoice,thewhimbrelhas In 2008,biologistsattheCenterforConservation

, whichuntil1957wasconsideredaseparatespe- sleep in unspoilt anchorages! anchorages! unspoilt in sleep lessto yourkeynight’s and quiet is a Street’s pilotageis time- information x x x yourhas: primary PILOT. Street Only tohave Street’s guides on board as When cruising the Caribbean be sure All eastern Caribbean anchorages Tidal information pilotage harbour and Inter-island , ‘’newmoon’’,whichevolvedintotheLatin in Don Street’s Caribbean pilots pilots Caribbean DonStreet’s in

The best anchorages are only only are anchorages best The (CCB) fitted andthegenustowhichcurlewsbelong. and canbefoundonbeaches,mudflats ‘’wit-tit-tit-tit-tit-tit’’ more than20whimbrelswith . withfrequent Numenius phaeopus, spilled overthe N.p. hudsoni-

(search: Don Street) Street) Don (search: www.imray.com UK/Europe: (searchM. Street) Donald Amazon or iUniverse USA/Caribbean: Order online for all the other guides guides other the all for companion pilotage perfect The safe. longer nois nowVenezuela thethem in besteastern the Caribbean ered other guides Street but by considers cov- not are These Martinique. & nouan Carriacou,Can- the & of coasts east of coast east & south the Grenada, coast east & east south include: pilots Street’s crowded. more are include do they anchorages & harbours sowhat fleets charter the to provided are & information shore-side for best are guides Other

his elegant wary neos OUR SEABOARDBIRDSBYBELABROWN

ous northernquadrant.Yetsometimeseventhetough- Irene in2011,byflyingrightthroughitsmostdanger- canes intwoconsecutiveyears,oneofthemHurricane such exampleisChinquapin,whosurvivedtwohurri- their experthandlingofseveralmajorstorms.One tail winds. encountering fewerstorms,predatorsandmore anic flightsarenotyetclear,butbenefitsmayinclude those vitalfatstores.Theexactreasonsfortheseoce- on theirstrong,constantlybeatingwings,fuelledby land onwater,flysofarfromtheshore,relyingsolely herculean featthatwhimbrels,aspeciescannot pelagic seabirdsabletolandonwater,itisatruly stop flightof4,355milesin145hours,orsixdays. islands, withMackenziecompletingthelongestnon- America andwithin700milesofftheCapeVerde took them1,000milesclosertoAfricathanNorth between GuyanaandBrazil.Atonepoint,theirroute Ocean, beforeheadingsouthandmakinglandfall took themsoutheasttothecenterofAtlantic From there,theysetoffonanepicoceanicflightwhich they remainedfortwoweeksbuildingupfatreserves. and theGulfofSt.LawrenceineasternCanada,where grounds intheMackenzieRiverdeltatoJamesBay Taglu, PingoandAkpikflewfromtheirbreeding University News(www.news.vcu.edu),Mackenzie, laws inGuadeloupeandprotecthabitatSt.Croix Adventurous whimbrelshavehelpedchangehunting But whimbrelshavealsoastoundedscientistswith Bearing inmindthattheopenoceanisrealmof Adventurous Whimbrels The Amazing her kind. precious wetlandsthataresocriticaltothesurvivalof inspiring childrenandadultsaliketohelpprotectthe by hunters. for arestandrefuelwithinhourstheywerekilled the storms,exhaustedbirdsheadedtoGuadeloupe TS MariaandGoshenintoIrene.Havingsurvived when theyranintotropicalstorms—Machi Goshen andMachiwerebothmigratingsouthtoBrazil est birdsneedasafehaventorest.InSeptember2011, book entitled cies. Today,Hopelivesoninthepagesofachildren’s International andasafehaventoatleast72birdspe- ignated “AnImportantBirdArea”byBirdlife the effortstopreserveherhabitat,whichisnowdes- Great Pondmadeheracelebrityandkeyfactorin languages andculturesherunwaveringloyaltyto seys. Underherbanner,Hopeuniteddifferentnations, and schoolsallovertheworldtofollowherepicodys- tured onawebsitethatallowedbiologists,thepublic great dealaboutwhimbrelmigration.Shewasfea- not beenseensince. over GreatPond,causinggreatdevastation.Shehas Hope washitbyHurricaneMaria,asitpassedright surviving thepassageofCategory5HurricaneIrma, station inCapeCod.Sadly,2017,twoweeksafter winds tocatapulthertowardslandandarefuelling she madeaquickrightturn,usingthepowerfultail one andahalfhoursasshebrokeoutofthestorm she pickedupspeedsofnearly100milesperhourfor ing 27hourstoreachthecentreofstorm.Then force windsatanaverageofninemilesperhour,tak- survived TropicalStormGertbyflyingagainststorm- that shehadtheheartofalionwhenin2011, swamp inSt.Croix,USVirginIslands.Hopeshowed tering homeatGreatPond,a50-hectaremangrove grounds inMacKenzie,northwestAlaskaandherwin- gering distanceseveryyear,betweenherbreeding decade, Hope’swingsbeattirelesslyassheflewstag- home forindividualslikeHope.Formostofthelast ing placeformigrantwhimbrels,theyarealsoawinter birds thatwouldhaveotherwisesharedtheirfate. did notdieinvainandhavesavedthousandsofshore- hunting bansoncertainspecies.GoshenandMachi other islandnations,implementedbaglimitsand after muchcampaigning,Guadeloupehas,alongwith groups quicklycalledfortougherhuntinglawsand, in theFrenchWestIndieseachautumn.Conservation shorebirds ofseveraldifferentspecieswerebeingshot worldwide andhighlightedthefactthatthousandsof In thecourseofheramazinglife,Hopetaughtusa The Caribbeanislandsaren’tjustanimportantrest- News ofMachiandGoshen’stragicdeathstravelled Hope isHere , writtenbyCristinaKessler, JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 Top left: The most common sea star you will find in the Caribbean Top left: The most common sea star you region is the Red Cushion Star I have encountered is Top right: The most aptly named sea cucumber the Donkey Dung Sea Cucumber of the reef: without Above: The Long Spine Sea Urchins are protectors them algae can grow unchecked is often called the “chocolate Below: The Three-Rowed Sea Cucumber knobbly spots on its body chip cucumber” because of the small, dark considered Bottom right: The West Indian Sea Egg is Caribbean a culinary delicacy in some parts of the ). The person Isostichopus badi- . Also known as the ) will be familiar to most, Holothuria mexicana ) is another prominent inhabitant Oreastar reticulates Diadema antillarum

GET TO KNOW YOUR CARIBBEAN MARINE LIFE MARINE CARIBBEAN YOUR TO KNOW GET Tripneustes ventricosus

by Darelle Snyman

). This little creature is characterized by a brown to tan body. It is often called the “chocolate ). This little creature is characterized by a brown to tan body. It is often called The Extraordinary Echinoderms The Extraordinary Its spiny relative, the West Indian Sea Egg ( are probably the seaThe most unlikely and least visually appealing members of the echinoderm clan ( Another prominent Caribbean Sea resident is the Three-Rowed Sea Cucumber that one article The phylum Echinodermata contains over 7,000 living species. It is therefore clear No other echinoderm member illustrates the five-part radial symmetry as well as the sea stars, or No other echinoderm member illustrates The somewhat scary-looking Long Spine Sea Urchin ( Outwardly, members of the Echinodermata do not look related at all, but they do share certain commonOutwardly, members of the Echinodermata skin” and the skin of most echinoderms is covered with spinesThe term echinoderm literally means “spiny Echinoderms are some of the most easily recognized marine invertebrates and include the sea stars, Echinoderms are some of the most easily by pushing its stomach out of its mouth, engulfing and The Cushion Star, like all sea stars, feeds This month we are taking a break from our fishy friends to have a closer look at those amazing This month we are taking a break from cucumbers of the class Holothuroidea. At first glance they appear to be inert lumps lying randomly oncucumbers of the class Holothuroidea. At first glance they appear to be inert lumps not win any beau- the sandy bottom, definitely not the most exciting reef life to encounter. They might janitors of the sea”,ty prizes but they are the secret superheroes of the sea. Often referred to as “the and excrement. Somethey fulfill an invaluable role in keeping the sea bottom free from dead sea life the cleaned sedimentspecies also gobble on the sediment, extracting the nutrients while pooping out the most aptly namedin long strands — they truly are the earthworms of the ocean. One of these is sea cucumber I have encountered: the Donkey Dung Sea Cucumber ( you some insight into cannot cover these bizarre and special creatures adequately. But I hope it gave the unique lives of these seemingly motionless creatures. as it is the most abundant herbivore on the Caribbean coral reefs. Its most distinctive feature is its as it is the most abundant herbivore on the Caribbean coral reefs. Its most distinctive to pierce clothing long, thin, mobile, usually black spines. The spines are hollow and sharp enough encounter I am most and gloves. Spines often break in the skin and are hard to remove, a painful that they scrape familiar with. Long Spine Sea Urchins are active at night and feed mainly on algae unique to sea off the substrate with five sharp teeth that are part of a complex feeding apparatus them algae can grow urchins, known as Aristotle’s Lantern. They are protectors of the reef: without unchecked, shading the coral from the life-giving rays of the sun. purple-black body isthat you would have encountered in your diving and snorkelling explorations. Its of seagrass stuckcovered with short white spines and you might have noticed that there are often pieces shells and evento them. This species has the habit of deliberately covering itself with pieces of seagrass, means of camouflagepebbles. Tube feet among the spines hold the decorations in place — they are a when the Sea Eggsand protection from the sun. Studies have shown that the covering response occurs delicacy in someare exposed to excessive light. The West Indian Sea Egg is also considered a culinary Island in Grenada;parts of the Caribbean. I had a chance to taste it during a cruiser get-together at Hog I would not go so far as to call it a delicacy but it was tasty enough. most pleasant lookingwho gave this species its common name really nailed it. This is definitely not the that this unappetiz- creature, with its dark-coloured, deeply creased dorsal surface. It’s hard to believe in fresh and drieding-looking fellow is considered a delicacy, especially in Asian countries. It is used far from the ocean,form and is said to have a slippery texture. If you find the need to partake but are you can conveniently order yourself some, frozen or dried, online. onotus species that is chip cucumber” because of the small, dark knobbly spots on its body. This is another the environment. In commercially harvested in huge numbers to satisfy people’s tastes at the cost of to have been as well contrast to their relatives the sea urchins and sea stars, sea cucumbers seem not are less obvious. endowed with defence mechanisms. But don’t underestimate them — their defences while others go to Some are able to expel white sticky threads that entangle and confuse predators that repels many extremes by expelling some of their internal organs through their anus — an action or damaged parts. would-be predators. Like the sea stars, they have the ability to regenerate lost it. A specialized struc- Excretion is not the only thing their anus is used for: they also breathe through in oxygenated ture called a respiratory tree is connected to their anus and they breathe by drawing five to ten years if water through it. These cool and environmentally essential creatures can live from they don’t get harvested as an Asian delicacy. starfish. They are one of the most iconic sea creatures, instantly recognizable by their shape. Sea stars starfish. They are one of the most iconic the class Asteroidea. The largest and most common sea star are often brightly coloured and belong to Red Cushion Star, you will find in the Caribbean region is the characteristics that unite them as a group. First, all of them exhibit five-part radial symmetry duringcharacteristics that unite them as a group. blood, relying on a complex system of canals through whichsome part of their life, and second, all lack movement. Third, they might appear sedentary but all arewater is pumped for breathing, feeding and in many species the tube feet have suckers to increase grip.able to move by means of tiny tube feet; spines are the mostor other projections. Where radial symmetry is a very distinctive feature of the sea stars, class Echinoidea anddistinctive feature of the sea urchins. These globular little sea hedgehogs belong to the be very painful.many of us can attest to their spiny nature; a close encounter with a sea urchin can brittle stars, sea urchins, sea cucumbers and sea lilies. These creatures belong to the unique and brittle stars, sea urchins, sea cucumbers that stands out among other animal groups. What makes diverse phylum Echinodermata, a phylum the only phylum whose members are exclusively marine, but them so extraordinary? Not only are they million years — not too shabby for creatures that have no also they have been around for over 500 able to colonize every marine habitat from the shallow inter- brain, heart or eyes. They have also been oceans. tidal zones to the deepest trenches of our makes the Red Cushion Star unique is that it also eats digesting its prey outside of its body. What to gather the sediment into heaps and engulfs the sediment directly from the sea floor. It uses its arms from algae and other microorganisms. This amazing creature with its stomach, cleaning the sediment but is also known to re-absorb its own tissue during times of is not only unique in its feeding habits size. low food availability; this leads to a reduced marine invertebrates that most of us are familiar with, the echinoderms. marine invertebrates that most of us are by its thick, short arms and a considerably elevated ventral West Indian Sea Star, it can be identified orange and brown to yellow or red. You will mostly find them disc. This beauty ranges in colour from abound in two of my favourite anchorages in Martinique: on seagrass beds and sandy flats, and they St. Pierre and Grand Anse d’Arlet. JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 Laurie aboard occasionally Lauriewritesarticlesfor Virgins totheWindwardandLeewardIslands.Dawn Laurie lovereadingand of CanadafromtheCaribbeanandback,butnowmost theirsailsarefromthe given time,andhadlosttwoofitsthreelifeboats.Theyachtalsosufferedsig- The 105-foot and cleaned. with one“borrow”ofapressure cooker.Yourteethandjawwillthankyoulater! borrow onefromaneighboring boat.Youcancookafewmealsorportionsofconch For manythisisastandardpiece ofgalleyequipment.Ifyoudon’thaveone,askto derize itwhileagitated.I’mnot sureI’drecommendanyoneoftheselatterideas! Vanderhoof’s frienddid—she putitinherwashingmachineandletthepaddlesten- a rock,thesideofcleaver or abeerbottlebottom,youcouldtrywhatAnn a meatmallet.InanoldCaribbeancookbookIfoundthatit saidyoucouldevenuse and cookingit,youprobablytriedmarinatingitinlimejuice and/orpoundingitwith If anyofyouhaveharvestedconchandgonethroughthe processofcleaningit the neckbecauseitissotough—whichwhyatenderizing techniqueisnecessary. floating barinBequia.) it’s asmallcruisingworld—Imettheauthorjustlastnight atBarOne,thenew Laurie oftenrelyonAnnVanderhoof’sbook George’s ParishinGrenada.WhenitcomestoCaribbean cooking,Dawnand and Omega’scookingclassesattheTrueBlueResort, a boutiquehotelinSt. months ayear. school teacherandLaurieanengineer)—theystartedlivingaboardforsixtoeight ing up 1996-vintage, 35-footFrenchcatamaran.In2006—afterafewyearsofsailing,fix- yacht, knew theywerethere. They sawalargeshipofftheirstarboardquarterandwonderediftheeven everyone gotusedtoit.Thewindwasaround35knotsandthewavesstillveryhigh. sent themdownaneddyaimedatBermuda.Theboat’smotioncalmedabitand high andthewindhadchanged,soturningbackwasoutofquestion.Herbthen the CorbettsheardreplyfromHerb:“Oh,s___t”!Thewavesnowwere40feet when hetoldthemthattheirslothadclosed.Heasked“Howbigareyou?”andthen slot oftimetoleaveBuzzard’sBayandtheywerehalfwayacrosstheGulfStream using HerbHilgenberg( CONCH àla In 2002,DawnandLaurieCorbettacquiredtheirfloatinghome, To start,theeasiest waytoprepareconch istobuyitalreadyoutofthe shell I thinkyouwilllovethismethod fortenderizingitwiththehelpofapressurecooker. Dawn andLaurierecentlysharedaconchrecipewithme.Conch isaroyalpainin Nearing Bermuda,theyheardovertheradiothatcrewonRichardBranson’s In 2008intheCorbettssailedfromBuzzardsBay,MassachusettstoBermuda HOLY MACKEREL!FOOD,FOLKSANDYACHTS Virgin Money Cat Tales Virgin Money Cat Tales and finishingtheirland-basedcareers(Dawnwasanelementary , waspackingitinfromtryingtobreakthetransatlanticrecord. by ChristineScheiblyBurstein —perhapsrinsingoffaftercleaningconch Southbound II hadeitheritsboworsternburiedinawaveatany ) astheirweatherrouter.Herbgavethema Caribbean Compass An EmbarrassmentofMangoes. Cat Tales —Continued on nextpage . TheyalsoenjoyEsther their homecountry few othertripsto and sound. to Bermudasafe and Lauriemadeit But itdid,andDawn than asuperyacht. would farebetter smaller, lighterboat to thinkthata Virgin Money ical dynamicsas have thesamephys- been tooshortto Cat Tales Corbetts figuredthat from wavehits.The nificant saildamage They didhavea Cat Tales musthave . Funny (And , a JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 TAILS.org CARIB www. itical for conservation efforts. e photographs of humpback whales humpback of e photographs in Helping? Go to from the Caribbean region are cr region are from the Caribbean INTERESTED HELP TRACKHELP HUMPBACK MIGRATION WHALE Your contributionsof tail fluk , using a pressure cooker. a pressure , using lambi Cat Tales ! ’ favorite recipes. This one, using plantains, is from Cat Tales . The first time you try it, have someone show you . The first time you try it, have someone Cat Tales Cat Tales Continued from previous page previous page from Continued Set this aside. Sauté 1 large diced onion, 2 diced green peppers, and chives if available. Add a can of chopped tomatoes and a can of beans (black or kidney). Add each of these ingredients “at their own time”, as the Corbetts say! Don’t overcook the peppers. Stir in 2 Tablespoons sweet garlic chili sauce. Re-introduce the cooked plantains when just about done. Serve it hot. Use leftovers as a cold salad (if there are any leftovers!) Bon appetit, and thanks to Add nutmeg, salt, pepper, a dash of bitters and lime, and then a splash of dark Add nutmeg, salt, pepper, a dash of bitters and lime, and then a splash of dark Here is another of Plantain Delight Dice plantains into cubes (twice the size of a corn kernel) and fry in oil until cooked If you do try to harvest your own conch, respect any local closed seasons and other If you do try to harvest your own conch, respect any local closed seasons and other The conch we eat here in the Caribbean is the Queen Conch. Her only predators The conch we eat here in the Caribbean is the Queen Conch. Her only predators I have a love for conch; I think they are amazingly beautiful creatures. During the I have a love for conch; I think they are amazingly beautiful creatures. During * A note on christophene: Christophene is very versatile; it keeps well and can * A note on christophene: Christophene is very versatile; it keeps well and can You will notice that I didn’t give exact amounts for the conch, veggies or spices You will notice that I didn’t give exact If you would like the dish to look a bit darker, add a bit of gravy browning sauce. dish to look a bit darker, add a bit of If you would like the Serve over rice. Cook in the pressure cooker and bring to high pressure for five minutes. cooker and bring to high pressure for Cook in the pressure water if needed. come down and then add a bit more Cool and let the pressure the Caribbean islands. milk powder. (I find this only in Add a package of coconut Here is a recipe for conch, sometimes known as known sometimes for conch, is a recipe Here salt and pepper. some onions, garlic, curry powder, seasoned In another pan, sauté reserved liquid. Add cooked conch and pumpkin, or what- following: potatoes, carrots, christophene*, Add any or all of the 2 Tablespoons minced garlic 2 Tablespoons thyme 1 Tablespoon conch water to cover the Just enough time. salt or lime at this Do NOT add allow to cool before to high for 15 minutes and then Take the pressure cooker Curried Conch Stew (or Lambi Stew) à la Stew (or Lambi Curried Conch juice away.) juice. (Throw the conch meat with lime Rinse your more than (you may cook in the pressure cooker and cleaned conch Place rinsed If you have any stories and recipes or would just like to introduce yourself, e-mail If you have any stories and recipes or would just like to introduce yourself, e-mail Christine sailed for a living for ten years, has a 100 Ton Ocean Operator license, and Christine sailed for a living for ten years, has a 100 Ton Ocean Operator license, and which parts are edible Preparing conch on rum to add to flavoring and caramelizing. and caramelized. regulations, make sure the ones you take are fully mature (they’ll have a very thick, regulations, make sure the ones you take are fully mature (they’ll have a very thick, flaring lip), and take only what you need. this Esther and Omega’s True Blue cooking classes. They didn’t have a name for dish, so I named it: are certain turtles, the horse conch and man. The use of SCUBA gear has increased are certain turtles, the horse conch and man. The use of SCUBA gear has increased of harvesting to a point that the Queen is now on the CITES’s (Convention International Trade in Endangered Species and Wild Fauna and Flora Agency) Appendix II list. The Appendix II list contains species that, although not threatened now, may become so without trade controls. ’80s I anchored at a small uninhabited island between St. Martin and St. Barths, free ’80s I anchored at a small uninhabited island between St. Martin and St. Barths, plen- diving for conch. The conch beds had hundreds of conch — large, beautiful and tiful. We would go to the beach, dig each critter out of its shell and have a few meals and of cracked conch or conch chowder, or I would barbecue it with lots of butter fresh black pepper. As the years have passed, I haven’t heard this kind of story again. need Instead I have learned lots about over-fishing, depletion of conch beds and the to be aware of fishing practices both here in the Caribbean (and in the world!). replace potatoes when cooked, or celery when raw or undercooked. I also learned in replace potatoes when cooked, or celery when raw or undercooked. I also learned my early Caribbean cooking days that you should always peel christophene, either under running water or over a bowl of water that you can keep dipping your hands skin in. I’ve peeled them without rinsing often and later in the evening I found the on the palms of my hands peeling! (I wouldn’t try this, but maybe I should introduce this to all the plastic surgeons I’ve worked with for a natural face peel!) (except with initially cooking the conch). Add or subtract amounts that you and your (except with initially cooking the conch). on board. family or crew like, or what you might have I’m sure a can of coconut milk — NOT coconut cream — would do just as well.) milk — NOT coconut cream — would I’m sure a can of coconut ever you have in your galley. ever you have in your — to separate out some the liquid. (At this point you may want opening it. Reserve salad, conch chowder.) conch for additional recipes — pizza, cooked and tenderized you need for this one dish). Add: you need for Christine at [email protected] is a family nurse practitioner, mother, wife, flute player and former legislator. She is a family nurse practitioner, mother, wife, flute player and former legislator. both stays politically active and enjoys cooking, sailing and having adventures in Maine and Bequia. JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 in Sewanee,Tennessee,hasbeenstudyingartisanal Environmental StudiesattheUniversityofSouth to thereliefofbeingpresentedwithafoodsource. engage withplayful,frolickingsealife,butratherdue breaching finsandtailflukesisnotduetoadesire and beautyofthemarinerealm. whales ordolphinsconjurespurejoyatthewonder planet —cetaceans.Crossingpathswithapodof most enigmaticcreatureswithwhomweshareour ocean journeywillbringthemintocontactwiththe who taketothewatersforleisureoftenhopethatan in differentwaysforvaryingcommunities.Those Fielding’s 15yearsofstudiesartisanalwhaling. memoir andscientificresearchresultingfromRussell wanted theiroptionofprint,Kindle,NookorPDF. information, moremealideas,photosofthetechniquesdescribed.Andthey selling boat refrigerator.” food youcanhaveevenifdon’trefrigerationor thetypicaltoo-small was publishedandusedthemtoshapethenewedition.There reallyisnolimittothe more in-depthinformationneededtocreateyourfavoritemeals fromrealingredients. without Refrigeration we’ll lookatsomememoirs,guidesandfiction. hit threeessentialtopics—food,anchoringandhavingtherightboat.Nextmonth, you’ll beneedingsomesummerreading!Onthissummer’sbookshelf,inPartOnewe US$9.99 Kindle)andBarnes&Noble(US$12.99print;US$8.99 Nook) (£22.95) 352 pages.ISBN9780674986374.Hardcover.$27.95 by RussellFielding.HarvardUniversityPress,©2018. Caribbean andNorthAtlantic Scientific and BOOK REVIEWBYMAEDORRICOTT The seabediscriss-crossed withfurrowscaused byboatsthathaddeployed inferior ing withthenew scoop-typeanchors.Prince Rupert BayinDominicaisan example. poor holdingbecause ofhardsandinthecruising guidesare,infact,excellent hold- number ofthephotos weretakenthere.Many oftheanchoragesdescribed as having sibly do.We’realwayshappyto helppeopleachievethatdream.” tion watchingthesunsetrates uptherewiththemostenjoyablethingsonecanpos- but sittinginthecockpitonalovely eveninganchoredinaspectacularlybeautifulloca- much more. book. Thislatesteditionincludes newgear,reviews,manyillustrationsand licensed captainsAlexandDariaBlackwell,reworked updatedmuchoftheir selling bookonboatanchoring, SUMMER READING Russell Fielding,anAssistantProfessorof However, inmanycommunitiesthedelightofseeing The importanceofahealthyoceanrepresentsitself Carolyn morethandeliverswiththerecentlypublishedsecondeditionof Once readersgotaglimpseofthefoodtheycouldhave,wantedmore:more Carolyn isthefacebehindTheBoatGalleywebsiteand co-author ofthebest- Carolyn says,“I’vebeencollectingreaderquestionssincethe daythefirstedition In thecockpit,inhammock,onbeachorhard—whereveryouare, The WakeoftheWhale The WakeoftheWhale:HunterSocietiesin He tells Alex says,“Notonlydoesconfidence inanchoringhaveimportantsafetyimplications White SeahorsePublishinghasannouncedthethird,expanded editionofthebest- Storing FoodWithoutRefrigeration The BoatGalleyCookbook Compass Social Insight New Edition:StoringFoodwithoutRefrigeration readers,“Alotofourtesting was doneintheCaribbean,anda . It’s over 60 percent longer than the first edition, and gives even . It’sover60percentlongerthanthefirstedition,andgiveseven Third EditionofHappyHooking: isacombinationofpersonal the ArtofAnchoring , Happy Hooking:theArtofAnchoring . Part One the refrigerator.” possible, butsomeactuallylastbetteroutside milk, butter,fruits,andveggiesareallnotjust — ornorefrigeration.Meats,eggs,cheese, adventuring foreatingwellwithverylimited share allthetricksI’velearnedinalifetimeof store thanwhenlivingashore.Iwasthrilledto yet wegolongerbetweentripstothegrocery have asmuchrefrigeratorspacewe’dlike, could bemadefromreal,freshfood. refrigerators —orevennoneatall.Goodmeals It taughtthemhowtolivewiththesmallestof Food withoutRefrigeration islands, snorkel,paddleboardandexplore!” meals andIhavemoretimetojustenjoythe more withoutrefrigeration,westillhavegreat a fewdaysintothetinyrefrigerator.Bystoring ping forprovisionswhenIcouldonlyfitfood huge bonustonothavebeconstantlyshop- eration andhowlongitwilllast.Tome,it’sa amazed atwhatyoucanstorewithoutrefrig- “Even intropicalheatandhumidity,you’dbe isavailableonAmazon(US$12.99print; As Carolynsays,“Mostofusonboatsdon’t Cruisers ravedoverCarolyn’sbook Carolyn Shearlocktells CARIBBEAN SAILORS’BOOKSHELF mals, IfoundFielding’sskillfullydetailedaccountof controversial meansofsubsistence. was likeforhimtoundertakehisresearchintosucha Fielding setsouttogivethereaderasenseofwhatit whaling fornearly15years.Inthiscompactbook As awildlifeloverwithadmirationformarineani- Specifically, hefocusesupontwoverydifferentcom- , publishedin2017. Compass . Theauthors, Storing Food Storing Food readers, Storing choices whilesteering youawayfromallowing yourhearttorulehead.” Caribbean. I’velongbelievedthere’snobetterplacetoreadabookthaninthecockpit have plentyoftimetolazearoundontheboat—‘limin’’astheycallitherein at (Kindle US$7.50). www.whiteseahorse.ie/publishing/HappyHooking.html orthroughAmazon.com a goodnight’ssleep.” webinars, we’vehelpedcruisersgetoutthereconfidentlyandsafelywhileachieving gear, wecanmakeadifference.Wehopethat,throughthebookandonline already decadesold.Ifwecanexplainhowtoselectandproperlydeployvarious scoop-type anchors,whichmadeanchoringeversomucheasierandsafer,isnow equipment thatforthemostpartcamewiththeirboat.Theintroductionof also lotsofpeopleusingoutdatedorinferior comes toanchoring,”Dariaadds.“Thereare ing tolearnwhatis‘bestpractice’whenit and tokeepthediscussionaboutsafetyalive.” ensure theseinnovationsarebroughttolight facturers. Wefeelitisourresponsibilityto improvements, newfieldtestsandmanu- new edition,Alexcontinues,“Therearealways compelled towriteit!” approached askingtobuyourbook,wefelt boat show.Whenmembersoftheaudience ing infrontofapackedauditoriumatmajor their membership.Thatprogressedtospeak- anchored out,theyaskedustodoatalkfor while outcruising.Whenwetoldthem members ofayachtclubwhatwedidatnight first place,Dariaexplained,“Wewereaskedby strong winds.” course ofamonthshifting,sometimes ing thedistanceittooktodigin—over our anchormovedbarelysixinches—includ- anchors andthendragged.Atthesametime How toAvoidBuying theWrongSailboat Author DickMcClarytells Happy Hooking:TheArtofAnchoring “There aremanynewsailorseachyearwant- Asked whytheyfelttheneedtobringouta When askedwhytheywrotethebookin

www.sailboat-cruising.com. of theaction. of thoseatthefront ny andtheopinions international scruti- techniques, tothe evolution ofwhaling hunt, throughthe ter withawhale his veryfirstencoun- experiences, from through Fielding’s guides thereader Wake oftheWhale Caribbean. Grenadines inthe St. Vincent&the ing communitiesof as theyoungerwhal- with whaling,aswell are infamouslytied Faroe Islanderswho pilot whales:the munities thathunt How toAvoidBuyingtheWrongSailboat The

Compass and thesacrificeswemustmakeforsustainability. place ofculturaltraditionsinthecontemporaryworld of theWhale portrayed withinthemassmedia. tence thathas,upuntilnow,oftenbeenone-sidedly incredibly insightfulaccountofameanssubsis- whaling meansforthem.Itisathought-provokingand stakeholders involvedandadeeperawarenessofwhat gain isasenseofappreciationthefamiliesand where youstandonwhaling.However,whatwill international policy. complex interactionsamongculture,scienceand encouraged toreadpasttheshockanddelveinto white. DuetotheauthenticityFieldingbrings,Iwas this issueshouldnotbediscussedasblackand wrong. It’shonestandraw,highlightingthefactthat whaling isrightneitherdoesitpreachthat strength ofthiswork. emotion closelylinkedwithfactsisanimportant ing ofawhalehunt,theauthor’stransparency shock andtoconveyhisowninitialmisunderstand- these communities.Whilepartsareintendedto edge hehasgainedthroughyearsofstudyingwithin est wordsarmthereaderwithwealthofknowl- be displeasing.However,Fielding’stactfulandhon- ness. Formany,theeventsoffirstchaptersmay his firstobservationsastruggletoreadwithoutsad- A raremixofscientificandsocialinsight, At theend,youmay,likeme,beleftstillunsure The bookdoesn’tattempttomakeyoubelievethat readers, “One of the joys of cruising is that you readers,“Oneofthejoyscruisingisthatyou is allaboutmakingpractical, pragmatic over 50illustrations)retailsfor US$9.99and along withmorebesides. issues youidentifiedhavebeen addressed— Buying theWrongSailboat replaced bymyneweBook, book. Consequentlythearticle hasnowbeen do thejobproperly,subjectneededa became toolonganddifficulttonavigate.To printable checklist. few ofyoualsoaskedforadownloadable enough orneededillustrations.Morethana that itneededmoreexplanation,didn’tgofar dence, mainlysayingnicethings,butalso ably would.Itgeneratedadealofcorrespon- ments, beforehominginonthosethatprob- those boatsthatwouldn’tsuityourrequire- process ofeliminationthatquicklyruledout suit yourrequirements.Itwasbasedona innovative approachtoselectingasailboat ‘Choosing aCruisingSailboat’thatsetoutan readers, whopromptedmetowriteit. this year,forwritingone.Anditwasyou,my of ananchoredsailboat—orasitturnedout isavailableinprintandKindleeditionsat “The eBook(withmorethan 80 pagesand “My attemptstore-writethearticlefailed;it “Sometime agoIwroteanarticlecalled is available raisescompellingquestionsaboutthe , inwhichallthe How toAvoid The Wake JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 . She said that , because I anchor Compass Ambia writer. She had wanted to do Compass — perhaps from the cat’s point of view. The so- — perhaps from the cat’s point of view. by Jim Hutchinson by Jim Caribbean Compass story yet. She said that she had been thinking and still wanted to do it but The Unwritten Unwritten The Compass Story Story Compass There Karen and I sat, under shade in the breeze aboard a yacht floating in the There Karen and I sat, under shade in the breeze aboard a yacht floating in We did the full set of lessons and Ben got pretty good. I’ve written lots of stories Then we got an interruption, an approaching weather system. It was threatening a I ran across them several months later and asked Karen if she had decided on Ah, the stories untold. “Messing about in boats.” Life aboard a fine little yacht with Karen came during lessons and we hung out in the cockpit together watching and Karen came during lessons and we hung Meanwhile, Ben was sailing out and around, practicing tacks, jibes and all points Were I so inclined, that could have been a “Different Boats For Different Folks” Were I so inclined, that could have been and asked me to teach him dinghy Ben was real interested in my sailing dinghies my small yacht, My dinghy sailing lessons are given from Karen and Ben were boat-sitting a Pearson 36, a very nice yacht of Sixties or early nice yacht of Sixties a Pearson 36, a very Ben were boat-sitting Karen and clear, warm tropical waters of a picturesque bay watching Ben zip back and forth in clear, warm tropical waters of a picturesque bay watching Ben zip back and forth my peculiar little dinghy with its colorful sail. about dinghy sailing but I didn’t write this one. enough that the fleet moved into the storm hole. So Ben and Karen got the experience of preparing a yacht for a storm and the stress of anticipation. As with most of the storm writ- threats that I’ve experienced and prepared for we didn’t get hit. Over the years I’ve thatten and sold several articles about storms that didn’t hit me – and two about storms did. Anyway, we came out of the hole and resumed “normal” life, hanging out aboard our yachts in the tropics. Then their stay aboard ended and they moved ashore. Compass couldn’t come up with anything interesting to write about. a cool cat. Learning to sail a strange little dinghy. A change of pace to deal with a storm threat. Just hanging out on tropical waters among a fleet of like-minded yachties. Karen didn’t write a story about any of it. Neither did I. It’s a choice you know. out where there is plenty of room and where the breeze is sweet. But also so I can out where there is plenty of room and where cup of coffee while watching solo practice, sit under shade in the cockpit with a what I’ve seen so far and what he including landing practice, when we discuss should try next. a talking. Karen felt inspired by my being to try a story for some writing herself and I encouraged her be interesting and that she would do it. she was going to think about what might of sail then sailing back to practice landings on the boat and some close-quarters maneuvering that I like to teach. And there were capsize and self-rescue lessons. article for the this was the cat’s home. Ben and Karen called owner could leave if he wanted but were visiting crew. small-airplane flight instructor and it sailing. I do that kind of stuff. I’m a retired satisfies my instructing itch. Seventies vintage. Karen was a German, Ben a West Indian and their novel stint of Indian and their a German, Ben a West vintage. Karen was Seventies cat, the reason the boat was interesting, including the boat’s living aboard a yacht needed someone aboard. FULL MOON Combretum rotun- 17 18 0012 19 0101 20 0148 21 0233 22 0317 23 0358 24 0440 25 0521 26 0604 27 0650 28 0738 29 0831 30 0928 31 1130 1028 10 11 1906 12 1955 13 2047 14 2137 15 2229 16 2321 0000 tends to be found near rivers in Guyana, tends to be found near Naturally found in fairly damp areas in lower Naturally found in fairly altitudes in its native habitat, altitudes in its native difolium and Brazil. In other places, Venezuela, Colombia commonly found in gar- specimens are more escaped, possibly in the dens, or, if some seeds island. Although enjoying damper areas of an for water isn’t dampness, their requirement well in immense, but they don’t do particularly can take very dry areas. They love the sun and good for full to partial light, which makes them below gardens. They can even take temperatures far bet- freezing for very short stints, but they do by Lynn Kaak by 21 22 0307 23 0353 24 0438 25 0520 26 0602 27 0644 28 0727 29 0811 30 0859 0951 July 2019 DATE TIME 1 2 3 1047 4 1146 5 1247 6 1348 7 1447 8 1553 9 1636 1727 1817 JUNE - JULY 2019 OF THE MOON FULL MOON

MERIDIAN PASSAGE

Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will 18 19 0035 20 0128 0218 June 2019 DATE TIME 1 2 3 1021 4 1111 5 1204 6 1301 7 1400 8 1500 9 1559 10 1655 11 1749 1840 12 1930 13 2019 14 2108 15 2158 16 2250 17 2342 0000 Look out for this fuzzy-flowered New World native on your next riverside hike or Look out for this fuzzy-flowered New World Monkey Brush plants can grow from cuttings or seeds, with the younger plants Monkey Brush plants can grow from cuttings Eventually, the flowers, if pollinated, will develop seeds that are referred to as Eventually, the flowers, if pollinated, will The leaves grow out side by side, and are generally kept all year around. The are generally kept all year around. The The leaves grow out side by side, and Each bloom starts as an inflorescence at the end of a branch; numerous small Each bloom starts as an inflorescence This striking plant, unlike so many ornamental flora in the Caribbean, was not Caribbean, was not unlike so many ornamental flora in the This striking plant, As you travel through the Caribbean, every month every the Caribbean, travel through As you charts. Fair tides! running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moon’s setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward; i.e. the tide floods from west to east. Times given are local. make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this AND next month, will help you calculate the tides. The Monkey Brush Monkey The walk around island neighborhoods. being more reliant on not getting dried out. They can grow to be shrubs or bushes being more reliant on not getting dried can be trained as climbing vines. If grow- up to six metres (20 feet) in height, or they respond very well to pruning and take ing them for their ornamental value, they any which way. “suggestions” well, rather than just growing samara. These are seeds with wings (four in this case) that allow them to disperse samara. These are seeds with wings (four very well when they are released. youngest leaves start out as a bronze colour, and develop their deep green with colour, and develop their deep green with youngest leaves start out as a bronze more maturity. flowers line an appendage. These appendages can be up to 30 centimetres (12 flowers line an appendage. These appendages or coral-coloured flowers, but then they inches) long. They start out as orange- yellow, and then progress to red. Eventually, develop the spiky stamens that start out fuzzy-looking bristles, giving the Monkey the whole inflorescence is covered with of the different common names such as Brush its memorable look, and the genesis Monkey’s Toothbrush that allude to brushes. brought to the New World by the Europeans. A native of the northern part of South northern part of South World by the Europeans. A native of the brought to the New Basin, and may far to travel to get farther into the Caribbean America, it didn’t have or been transported as the migration of indigenous peoples have travelled with and the subtropics in now be found throughout the tropics seeds by birds. It can all hemispheres. ter in subtropical and tropical temperatures. LOOK OUT FOR… OUT LOOK there’s something special to look out for. there’s something JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34

JONAS BROWNE&HUBBARD(G’da.)Ltd. Hubbard’s The FoodFairhasitallandalotmore. or afineselectionofliquorandwine, or fruits,toiletries,householdgoods, products, meat,freshvegetables Whether it’scannedgoods,dairy conveniently locatedsupermarkets. best pricesinGrenadaatourtwo on thewidestselectionand Stock Up A Hard-WonCaribbeanCruisingDream when eachmonth’snew [email protected] andwe’llputyou HEY, READERS! Next Month’s Products forYourSummerProjects If you’dliketoreceivenotificationbye-mail …andmuch,muchmore! Rio Dulce’sTikalSideTrip on thelist—it’saseasythat! Compass free online,justdropanoteto Read in

Compass Tel: (473)444-4573 until 7:00pm Friday &Saturday 9 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday Grand Anse: Tel: (473)440-2588 1:00 pm Saturday until Friday until8:45pm 8 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday The Carenage: isavailable : the islandisstatistically high(andurgently needsto faith inthejustice system.Whilethemurder rateon cases toappease theconcernedpartiesand restore and effortsshould bemadetoexpediteoutstanding in executingjusticehavefar-reaching consequences system inSt.Luciashouldbe awarethatthesedelays tion ofthegeneralstateour legalsystem.Thecourt aggrieved parties.Theseinevitable delaysareareflec- courts hereinSt.Lucia,which isfrustratingforthe lihood ofTyrellBay. dinghy wouldhavenegativeconsequencesforthelive- he wasrightlyconcernedthatafalsereportofstolen at night.Thesalvormademesettherecordstraight; inadequately tieduptomytransomandbrokenfree police toupdatethem:my“stolen”dinghyhadbeen anchorage, Iatehumblepieandwentbacktothe picked upmydinghy15milesdownwindofthe manager oftheboatyardreportedthathistughad yacht anchoredinTyrellBay.However,whenthe Hillsborough thatmydinghyhadbeenstolenfrom Carriacou, Ievenmadeareporttothepolicein draggings, breakdowns,etcetera.Ononeoccasionin incidents: navigationalmishaps,groundings,anchor had asecurity“incident”anywhere.I’veother and recreationallysincethe1990shavenever island’s anchoragesaregenerallysafe. normal securitymeasuresandcommonsense;the and tolockitwhenleavingunattended.Theseare however, advisecruiserstoraisetheirdinghyatnight cers wouldsayitwasinadvisabletostay.Theymight, they wouldgive.IdoubtCustomsorImmigrationoffi- ors enteringSt.Luciaasktheofficialswhatadvice yachting appealtoday.)Isuggestthatconcernedsail- misinterpret thisanecdoteasasluronthatisland’s (Things havenowchangedinSt.Vincent,sodon’t the recommendedadvicewastomoveon.So,Idid. response. Therehadbeenburglariesfromboatsand replied “No.”ClearingImmigration,Ireceivedthesame there overnight,beforesailingnorthtoSt.Lucia.He officer whetheritwasadvisabletoremainanchored Clearing outatChateaubelair,IaskedtheCustoms security provisionsandpreventionofcrime. visitors mustgohandinwithanincrease minimizing thesenegativeexperiences.Anincreasein Those intourismandtheyachtingsectormustaimat likely experienceaproportionateincreaseinincidents. year. Ifanislandexperiencessuchincrease,itwill 25.9 percentincreaseinarrivalsovertheprevious even boycotting,St.Luciaasayachtingdestination. But Idon’tagreewiththosewhoadvocateavoiding,or Lucians inthisindustryarethefirsttolamentthis. dents reflectingbadlyontheyachtingindustryandSt. island, needtobeaddressed.Therehavebeeninci- St. Lucia,andassociatedcallsforcruiserstoavoidthe Dear CB omy atColumbia—hemakesitthrilling! omy column.Iwishhe’dtaughtwhenstudiedastron- JP CK the bananabreadrecipewithrum! CY DS interesting articles. Dear FFORUM RREADERS' There areseriousyachtcrimes thatdragoninthe I’ve beensailinginCaribbeanwatersprofessionally I visitedSt.Vincentbyyachtoveradecadeago. In 2018,theisland’syachtingsectormeasureda I thinkthatrecentreportsofcrimeagainstyachtsin SUPPORT FORST.LUCIA Please congratulatethemanwhowritesyourastron- Looks amazinginhighresonline. It’s myearlymorningreadingbeforeIgetup.like Love the The Mayeditionisjam-packedagainwithsomany WE’VE GOTFANMAIL! O E Compass Compass R A S/V Delos U D , , M E R articleforMay!Goodjob! S '

Dear S/Y Aequitas Please signme, whatever reason,youwillmissout. islands areallunique.Ifyoustartskippingthemfor to scarepeopleaway.Thatdoesn’thelpanyone.The against sailingthesewaters,orexaggeratetheproblem authorities know),butdon’tcampaignonsocialmedia to theyachtingsector. most ofthecrimethathappenshereisnotconnected be addressedforthebenefitofsocietyasawhole), Dear Seven SeasCruisingAssociation Cruising StationCoordinator Joan Conover (boat weatherobservations)hasbeenadded. some buoys/stations,alinktointernetmessagetraffic other meteorologists.Aspreviouslymentioned,for ress, thankstotheconcernofNOAAfederaland other marineregionsinasimilarmanner. have failed.Thissamelackofweatherdatacanaffect areas —FloridaortheCaribbeanwheresystems real-time weatherassessmentoptionsinanyofthese there aretwofewersources.Forcruisers,thislimits ited (orpoor)dataissuesoffshoreSouthFlorida.Now ages causedbyotherevents,therewerealreadylim- local dataisnotavailable.Becauseofequipmentout- forecasting issuesornearbyshipobservationswhen the Bahamas. the useofBahamaweatherstationtonorth have workaroundsinprogress,suchassuggesting NOAA website’sweatherforecasters.Thesescientists operation fromApriltoJune2019accordingthe coast oftheUSA.Thetwostationswillbeout in, entering,orexitingtheGulfStreamoffeast real-time windandwavedatatoassistvesselswhile — areofespecialinteresttocruisersastheyprovide tions offSouthFlorida—FoweyRocksandMolasses weather forecasting:twocriticalNOAAC-MANsta- ple ofhowcrucialsomethestations/buoysarefor so-called “thirdparty”vendors. forecasters andmodels,bothbythegovernment data fromweatherstationsandbuoysisutilizedby available, andthatlimitsforecastingknowledge.The date theirtripforecasts.Somesystemsmightnotbe ing areasanduseeithere-mailoronlinetoolstovali- the criticalweatherbuoysandstationsintheircruis- devices. Othernationsmighthavedonethesame. outages forUScoastal,offshore,andterritory to upgrade.NOAAhaspostedawarningandlistedthe are mooredoffshorerequiresignificantphysicalefforts their softwareiscorrected.Manyofthesystemsthat have notbeenupdatedmightbeoperationaluntil Older unitsaroundtheCaribbeanandworldwidethat buoys, suchastheUnitedStatesNOAAsystems. units bootupwithaturnoverdateof1999andfail. same issue.Forexample,severaloldMagellanGPS is the2019version,orY2K+20years,withexact stamp errorcalled“Y2K”,fortheyear1999.Nowthere are thesystemsthathaven’tbeenupgradedforatime- time stamps,whichmightcausethemtofail.These weather stationsmayexperienceasoftwareglitchwith be editedforlength,clarity,andfairplay. Please keeplettersshorterthan600words.Lettersmay name maybewithheldfromprintatyourrequest. We donotpublishanonymousletters;however,your individual regattaresultscomplaints.(Kudosareokay!) bly byemail)ifclarificationisrequired. side address,andawaywecancontactyou(prefera- APRIL 2019GPSSOFTWAREISSUES Please continuetoreportincidents(andletthe WE WANTTOHEARFROMYOU! There aresomebackupsandworkaroundsinprog- Another optionisusingnearbyshorestationsfor While notintheCaribbeanproper,here’sanexam- Before apassage,itissuggestedthatcruiserscheck The issuealsoaffectsoffshoreweatherstationsand Owing toApril2019GPSsoftwareissues,older Send [email protected] We donotpublishindividualconsumercomplaintsor Be suretoincludeyourname,boatorshore- We wanttohearfromYOU! Compass Compass , Readers , JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 Dual-Biocides America! [email protected] Hand Crafted in for every Caribbean sailor Multi-biocide antifouling solutions 727-523-8053 • Triple-Biocide www.SeaHawkPaints.com • Antifouling Paint in the Caribbean #1 • Proven Multi-Season Longevity • Antifouling Performance Self-polishing Premium ISLANDS FAMILY Ask for Sea Hawk at boatyards and marine retailers

LUCY TULLOCH

went to press — but plans change, Compass CALENDAR [email protected] contact information of the organizing body to All information was correct to the best of our knowledge so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation. Tour de Martinique des Yoles Rondes. Baai Hoppen, Curaçao. Leden CYA, [email protected] Curaçao. Leden Baai Hoppen, regatta, Martinique. CNM, Combat de Coques Festival. grenadachocolatefest.com Grenada Chocolate Optimist Worlds, Antigua. AYC, www.antiguayachtclub.com Mott Memorial Hobie Cat Challenge, Grenada. PCYC, St. Lucia Dinghy Championships. www.stluciayachtclub.com St. Lucia Dinghy Championships. St. Thomas. STYC, www.styc.club International Opti Regatta, Regatta, Barbados. BYC, Massy Stores Dinghy Petite Martinique Whitsuntide Regatta Petite Martinique Whitsuntide

please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name and Reggae Sumfest, Jamaica. www.reggaesumfest.com St. Lucia Carnival. www.stlucia.org/summerfestival Statia Carnival, St. Eustatius Public holidays in Cuba (National Revolutionary Festival) Carnaval of Santiago de Cuba www.stkittsmusicfestival.net St. Kitts Music Festival. at the time this issue of Dominica Dive Fest. www.dominicawatersports.com

St. John Festival, St. John, USVI. www.stjohnfestival.org Aruba Hi-Winds Kitesurf event. www.hiwindsaruba.com Firecracker Race, BVI. WEYC, [email protected] St. Vincent Carnival ‘Vincy Mas’. www.carnivalsvg.com Barbuda Carnival ‘Caribana’

Tobago Heritage Festival, http://tobagoheritagefestival.com Kite Surfing Festival, Havana, Cuba. CNIH, [email protected] Carriacou Children’s Education Fund Pot Luck. MOON Public holiday in French islands (Bastille Day); yole races in Martinique FULL Public holiday in Venezuela (Simón Bolívar’s Birthday) Public holiday in Puerto Rico (Constitution of Puerto Rico Day) Public holiday in some places (Whit Monday) FULL MOON Solstice FULL Summer Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago (Labour Day) Jan Sofat Sunfish Triangles, Curaçao. Fisherman’s Birthday; local boat racing in many communities If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our monthly calendar, Public holiday in BVI (Territory Day), and in Suriname (Emancipation Day) Public holiday in Curaçao (Flag Day), Public holiday in and Puerto Rico and USVI (Independence Day) Foxy’s Hempfest, Jost van Dyke, BVI. https://foxysbvi.com Challenge, Curaçao. CYA, [email protected] Budget Marine Day World Environment of Ramadan) in Trinidad & Tobago (Eid ul-Fitr, end Public holiday in BVI and Anguilla (Queen’s Birthday) Public holiday TBA 2 3 – 4 4 – 8 and in Cayman Islands (Constitution Day) 6 – 7 31 [email protected] TBA http://federationyolesrondes.com/ JULY 1 4 5 – 14 6 6 – 16 7 www.pcycgrenada.com 8 – 9 14 14 – 20 15 – 16 16 22 – 28 24 25 25 – 27 26 – 27 28 – 4 Aug 10 10 – 16 8 – 9 9 16 www.barbadosyachtclub.com 17 19 21 23 26 – 30 29 [email protected] WSV Jan Sofat, JUNE 1– 2 June 1– 6 June 1– 7 June 5 5 www.clubnautiquedumarin.com 6 – 9 7 – 10 7 JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL, AZORES Jeff Fisher –Grenada(473)4076355 and bluewatercruising. harsh environmentofthecharter trade well-built sailsthatarewell suitedtothe for acompetitivequoteon rugged and Check outourwebsiteorcontact usdirectly S.I.M.S. Boatyard,True Blue,Grenada Incl. Pilots,Rigging Chandlery, Charts, stainless steelandaluminiumitems. Engineering, fabrication and welding. Engineering, fabricationandwelding. TechNick Ltd. TEL +351292391616FAX +351292391656 YACHT SERVICES www.midatlanticyachtservices.com MID ATLANTIC Providing all vital services to Providing allvitalservices www.neilprydesails.com Fabrication andrepairof Nick Williams, Manager EU-VAT (18%)importation [email protected] Duty free fuel(+10.000lt) Duty free Caribbean CompassMarketPlace Trans-Atlantic Yachts! Tel: 1(473)405-1560 [email protected] Grenada NEILPRYDE Sails [email protected] YACHT MANAGEMENT Complete Professional Yacht Sales Yacht Professional Complete Ofﬁces inPort LouisMarina&ClarkesCourt Boat Yard Phone (473)4436500orcallCH16 Book itnow: Brokerage Horizon YachtsGrenada MARKET PLACE AD YOUR and Maintenance Services Maintenance and Sunday Brunch 11.30-14.30 Sunday Brunch Reservations recommended Reservations Open 11.30-2.00for Lunch Situated ontheSouthSide Tyrrel Bay,Tyrrel Carriacou THIS COULDBE Use ournewDinghyDock 6.00 -9.00for Dinner Tuesday toSaturday s Guardianage www.horizonyachtsgrenada.com Email: [email protected] Tel: (+1473)4150431or4391002 Bar openallDay of Tyrrel Bay. Tyrrel of s Project Management continued onnextpage [email protected] • Billpayments (startingfromEC$30) • Argyle International Airport directshuttle (withdeliverytoyourdock) • GroceryShopping/Personal pick-up MARKET PLACEAD LAC Services App (Google App Store) Tel: (784)527-3082,492-9983 E-mail: [email protected] THIS COULDBE YOUR WE OFFER:

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Devlin Devlin BILL THOMAS BILL aabrItrainl / MP 24 MP 40 C/W St.Lucia Grenada SintMaarten MP UK 20/28 Karatbar International 34 12 MP MP 31 Johnson's Hardware Island WaterWorld SVG Island Dreams Grenada Grenada 21 Grenada Iolaire Enterprises 28 SVG C/W Hydrovane InternationalMarine 10 Horizon YachtCharters Trinidad Grenadines Sails Grenada Marine USA Gonsalves Liquors 4 C/W Food Fair Electropics Trinidad Barbados Echo Marine DYT YachtTransport Doyle's Guides MP Doyle OffshoreSails The Sea Cloud, Bequia, 1976 The SeaCloud,Bequia,1976 of the amphitheater that in recent times had been of theamphitheaterthatinrecenttimeshadbeen that was, for allthat, asingleplayer onthestage a summitofbeauty&utility, ofpower &grace, and threehundredsixtyfeet overall, indesign this creatureclipper-bowed, triple-decked, fantailcountered, onholiday) … & guestsbut passengers Post Merriweather that inherholdwere notMarjorie nor yet molasses, lumber, rice, cement; not norplundercocaine, Africans mindless ofevil&good(considerthatshecarried off blue waters, treacherouswithshoal&reef, or ghost?), intheblinding glare driving those whitesailsover awhitehull(angel by way ofchangingwiththetimes, breathtaking, the vessel well-maintained, lucky, timeless ofsomethingdivine… as ifinthegrip ofthe by thegrace Trades, theirshapingwind, manned by sixtyhands, tackingup Bay Admiralty by ten-and-a-halfmilesofline run thousandsquarefeet ofcanvas thirty-two the vessel aslant, hardtowindward… working four mastsleaning, twenty-two sailspulling, bark, shipintune, to seethefull-rigged theworking as abodyample&tannedsuddenly naked before you, blue glarefantastic,It wasinthatbrilliant surprising in somemetropolitanextravaganza, fire-boat flanked) … wharf-bound, norderelict, noronparade (and notondisplay insomemuseum, hardaground, unexpectedly,her arrive orMyth asifoutofHistory tosee It wasfantastic, almostvisionary was beingcaulked by wooden malletsonironssounding… her bottompainted, whilethewhaleboatIronDuke was beingbuilt, &schoonerDiligencelay careened, Just Now, inBequiacedarhewnby adz, framed or lookingupfromtheforeshore wherethesloop and intotherealmofthatvastblue bay … stare),blink withakindofpreternatural the sweat makingyour eyes, asifsalt-stung, that grainy, glare(sweating, ridge-top, seagirt On walkingover Ridgeinall theFriendship ADVERTISERS INDEX oe ot Tiia MP 39 Trinidad Panama MP MP 21 Grenada 6 20 Grenada Red FrogMarina Power Boats Tortola MP 8 Off ShoreRiskManagement Grenada MP MP MP Tortola 5 Northern Lights/Parts&Power Neil PrydeSails Trinidad Nauti Solutions Colombia MP Trinidad SVG Azores 13 Ministry ofTrade&Industry SVG Mid AtlanticYachtServices McIntyre Bros Grenada Marina SantaMarta SVG Marc OneMarine Mac's Pizzeria Lulley's Tackle LIAT C/W Le PhareBleu LAC Services 30 dark blue &deep,dark oflight. anemissary ofthe agleam inthegrip Trades acrossthisbay oftheSeaCloudwhole, thevessel aslant, a part self-reliant, curious, andeachoftheirboats &mishap,of heartbreak intermingling, coming & going, & captivity, polyglot, theirshare suffering wealthy ornot, afloatintheirfreedom local¬, ofsailors its concentration offoreigners anyway, initsconfluence ofkeels, in atimelike noother—not, inthisplacelike noother,all thesecraft … ketch JensJuhl&packet Seimstrand the cargo Mandalay,schooners ofBaltimore, Pride Rose; Friendship Ticonderoga, II—ketches all; Eleuthera Iolaire, Street’s yawl; Maverick, Kathleen, among themsloopsRustler, Agwé, Sapphire; and feel relatedtoher&allthesecraft, to gethere)andthenwitnesstheSeaCloud (this was, backthen, theonly way It wasfantastictohave sailedhereyourself (the Mildred Wallace, Lady Angela, & … Tiki [ex-Pilgrim]) and graveyard for countlessothers (among themschooners Water Colita), Pearl &Gloria launchsite,of yacht chartering; also, ofscoresvessels Mitchellintheketch Carib,roadstead for Carleton herald John Caldwell inOutwardBound, ketches both); Dr. SmithinChristiana, Porter (Commander NicholsonintheschoonerMollihawk, So Long), ormorelikely theirinterruption built hereofwood, Tom &Sally inthesloop (Klaus inPlumbelly,Alvermann anenginelesscutter the beginning&endofsuchvoyages &SusanHiscockintheketch Eric Wanderer IV), (Dennis Pulestonintheyawl Uldra, a pauseonthecircumnavigators’ path

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JUNE 2019 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 Book your berth today. ng & Kiteboarding INSURANCE BROKERS Panama (507) 4500 6726 • Resort Class & Marina World • & Resort Crew Amenities Full • Complimentary Shuttle Bocas to Town Activities • Eco-Friendly • Tours Line Zip Exhilarating Surﬁ • Renowned [email protected] www.IGYmarinas.com | www.IGYmarinas.com BOCAS DEL TORO, PANAMA BOCAS TORO, DEL www.igy-redfrogmarina.com Accommodating yachts up to yachts up Accommodating 300ft (90m) The Ultimate Hurricane Free Caribbean Cruiser Playground Cruiser Caribbean Free Hurricane Ultimate The VHF Channel 68 VHF 68 Channel Caribbean side of Panama. Hurricane Free Zone Free of Panama. Hurricane side Caribbean 133nm from the Panama Canal. Welcoming all vessels all from the Welcoming Panama Canal. 133nm U.S. 1 281 892 1637 1637 892 1 281 U.S. Deep water to basin up 25ft Megayacht draft Slips – 84 / 12 Slips • Assistance Passage Canal • Speed High Fueling Docks • Floating • Safe Harbor Marina Basin • Security Hour 24 Sundries/Grocery • On-Site Published by Compass Publishing Limited, Anguilla, British West Indies, and printed by Guardian Media Limited, Trinidad & Tobago