C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS OCTOBER 2012 NNO.O. 220505 The CCaribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore GGuatemala’suatemala’s RRioio DDulceulce See story on page 24 STEVE JOST / WWW.STEVEJOSTPHOTOGRAPHY.COM OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 The Caribbean’s www.budgetmarine.com Leading Chandlery ARUBA arsenal. must havesforyourfishing prism finish,theseluresare magnified flashfromthe3D Wave MotionVibration,and feed. WithUVattackpoints, bait fish,whichexcitesfishto changing behavioroffleeing Lures imitatethenaturalcolor Yo-Zuri’s new3DSashimi CURAÇAO FISHING! BONAIRE BONAIRE ST. THOMAS ST. THOMAS ST. CROIX ST. CROIX TORTOLA NANNY CAY GRENADA GRENADA ST. MARTIN ST. MAARTEN/ TRINIDAD ST. MARTIN ST. MAARTEN/ TRINIDAD ANTIGUA ANTIGUA ANTIGUA •ARUBA •BONAIRECURAÇAOGRENADA •ST. CROIX•ST. MAARTEN•ST. MARTIN•ST. THOMAS•TORTOLATRINIDAD worldwide. fish-catching abilitiesinoceans sizes, haveproventheir in anassortmentofcolorsand jigs, available Butterfly® Shimano and the Trevala® jigrods extremely powerful with thindiameter, metered braid,matched Power Pro®DepthHunter® Butterfly jiggingsystem. evolved withShimano’s water verticaljiggingall A renewedinterestindeep Go deep–andholdon. Caribbean DutyFreeListPrices.Checkyourlocalstoreforfinalpricing. dedication toC&Hquality. American engineeringand but imitatorscan’tmatchtheir lure companies.Oftencopied, C&H isoneofthelastAmerican for overthirtyyears. tournament winningfishinglures C&H Lureshasbeenproducing Tarpon Tournament,Trinidad BVI BillfishTournament August 2013 Trinidad TarponThunderTournament Junior AnglerTournament,Trinidad Commercial FishingTournament Tobago HouseofAssembly GHFC JunglerulesSportFish-VI Kingfish Tournament,Trinidad June/July 2013 St MartinBillfishTournament TTGFA KingFishTournament-Trinidad Antigua &BarbudaFishingTournament May 2013 Jamboree &WahooFishingTournament Tortola SpanishTownFisherman April 2013 Marlin ReleaseTournament Curacao AnnualInternationalBlue Fishing Tournament) TIGFT(Tobago InternationalGame GHFC DolphinTournament-VI Fishing Tournament-Trinidad TTGFA MarlinMadness-Trinidad March 2013 GHFC MarlinTournament-VI Tournament Bonaire InternationalFishing Billfish Tournament,Grenada Budget MarineSpiceIsland January 2013 TTGFA Wahoo-Trinidad&Tobago GHSF WahooTournament-VI VIGFC WahooWindup-VI Trinidad TarponTournament Wahoo Tournament Budget MarineSt.MaartenAnnual Funfish Tournament,Trinidad November 2012 Caribbean Cup The 2012ChivasRegalAruba October 2012 TOURNAMENTS CARIBBEAN FISHING OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 Tel: (784) 457-3409
Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell .” Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Ad Sales & Distribution - Maurice Moffat Distribution - Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Compass Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Martinique: 74 77 01 Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71 Mob: + 596 696 [email protected] Panama: Red Frog Marina - www.redfrogbeach.com Shelter Bay Marina - www.shelterbaymarina.com Puerto Rico: (787) 219 4918, [email protected] Distribution - Sunbay Marina, Fajardo (787) 863 5282 Olga Diaz de Peréz, Tel: (787) 863 0313 Fax: [email protected] St. Lucia: Tel: (758) 452 0147 Cell: (758) 720-8432 [email protected] St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: Ad Sales & Distribution - Stéphane Legendre Ad Sales - Patty Tomasik Sales & Distribution and reading it. We could see spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed (787) 219 4918, [email protected] Distribution - Bryan Lezama Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Ad Sales - Shellese Craigg Mob: + 590 690 760 100 [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: [email protected] Distribution - Doc Leslie Tel: (784) 529-0970 Tortola/BVI: (787) 219-4918, [email protected] Distribution - Gladys Jones Tel: (284) 494-2830 Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad; David Bovell, Tel: (868) 497-1040 [email protected] Venezuela: Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448 [email protected] Cooking with Cruisers ...... 34 Cruisers Cooking with ...... 36 Meridian Passage ...... 38 Readers’ Forum ...... 40 My Mind What’s On ...... 41 Calendar of Events .....42 Caribbean Market Place ...... Classified Ads 46 ...... 46 Advertisers’ Index ISSN 1605 - 1998 near you! DEPARTMENTS S/V Moonrise But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole Caribbean Compass ...... 30 “As soon as we arrived in the islands we began hearing “As soon as we arrived in the islands we began hearing — Jack and Bobbie Greer about right away that there was a sense not only of readership right away that there was a sense not only of readership but of community built around the covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, Distribution - Hubert J. Winston welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. is published monthly by Compass See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts length and clarity.no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for this publication, except short©2012 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of Ltd. excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ad Sales & Distribution - Marina Santa Marta Distribution - Doyle Sails can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore. can use. We’re Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that Distribution - Budget Marine Curaçao Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch Caribbean Compass Info & Updates ...... 4 Info & Updates ...... 7 Business Briefs Regatta News...... 12 ...... 28 Voyaging Caribbean Sailor’s Horoscope ...... 31 Cruising Kids’ Corner ...... 32 Book Reviews ...... 33 The Caribbean Sky www.igy-marinasantamarta.com/en Curaçao: [email protected] Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 Dominica: Caribbean Compass BQ, Bequia,Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410 [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com Erdle Editor...... Sally [email protected] Ollivierre Assistant Editor...... Elaine [email protected] Hopman Advertising & Distribution...... Tom [email protected] Dederer Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred [email protected] Craigg Accounting...... Shellese [email protected] Compass Agents by Island: Antigua: Tel (268) 720-6868 [email protected] Barbados: Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 Colombia: Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected] Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Karen Maaroufi Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222 [email protected] Caribbean Compass
HAMILTON nd the nd Roll ’Em! ...... Roti lessons in Bequia 36 Buoy? Phooey! ...... Musings on moorings 27 Click Google Map link below to fi ..... 22 www.caribbeancompass.com OCTOBER 2012 • NUMBER 205 OCTOBER 2012 • NUMBER The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore The Caribbean’s http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078& Egg-laying leatherbacks ...... 22Egg-laying leatherbacks Sea Turtle Trip A no-cost tour of Trinidad Exploring Guadeloupe ...... Exploring Guadeloupe 16 Really Free Time ‘Island of Pretty Waters’ GOOCH FARNHAM Cover photo: Photographer Steve Jost shares a taste of the sweetness of the river Cover photo: Photographer Steve Jost shares a taste of OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 to bethatyouareinthewrongplace.Younot Barcadera harborlooksdesolateandindustrial,yourfirstimpressionisgoing by Customs.FirstdotheclearanceatImmigration(Seasideoffice),then on theisland.ThevesselandcrewwillhavetobeclearedbothbyImmigration official portofentryatBarcaderaHarbortoclearinbeforeproceedingelsewhere &Updates Info
Sander Vellingareports:WhenarrivinginAruba,allyachtsarerequiredtogothe Aruba: ChangesinCustomsProcedures WWW.ARUBA-CRUISINGGUIDE.COM of retirees( Immigration Servicehasstatedthatforeignerswhoapplywithinthestatus cer willcollectthisincashatthevesselwhileyouaretiedup. 0800, and$20perhouronweekendsholidays.Auniformedharborsecurityoffi- up totheirdocks:US$10perhourfrom08001600hours,$15 (297) 593-8305,[email protected]. your seconddayontheisland. upon arrival. at least15daysbeforeanewtemporarypermitcanbeappliedfor. the valueofdutiesforyacht. mit willneedtobeobtainedwithpaymentofadeposit(orbankguarantee)for obtained. Nodepositwillberequired. your seconddayontheisland.CostwillbeaboutUS$65toUS$100. The Customsbrokerwillhavetostarttheprocessofdeclarationnolaterthan done (nolaterthan)thenextday.ForthisyouwillneedtouseaCustomsbroker. declare thevesselyouareon.Thiswillnotneedtobedoneuponarrivalbutcan the CustomsofficeofAruba:outsideregularclearance,youwillalsohaveto has tospecifyAruba. Entry_Req-Eng.pdf. Other nationalitiescandownloadentryrequirementsatwww.aruba.com/sigma/ Should yourplanschangeyouwillnothavetoapplyforanextension. —Continuedonnextpage your destination. Australia, theUS,UKorCanadaalimitedlistofothercountries,Panamacouldbe love tospendtherestofyourlifesailinginidyllicwatersandareacitizen dent statushasattractedlong-termcruiserstoPanama.SailWorldsays,“Ifyouwould is requiredtohaveapensionofnotlessthanUS$1,000permonth. other countries,theywerenotgivenacedula.Theapplicantforretireeresidentstatus card or According to an August 18th report at www.panama-guide.com, Panama’s National According toanAugust18threportatwww.panama-guide.com,Panama’sNational Panama NowMoreAttractivetoRetireeCruisers For moreinformationvisitwww.Aruba-cruisingguide.com. As ofJanuary1st,2011,ArubaPortsAuthoritieschargesaportfeeforyachtstied HARBOR FEE Two availablebrokersareLandseair(Harold),(297)582-9284andAshleyBroker, Your Customsbrokerwillhavetostarttheprocessofdeclarationnolaterthan Yachts broughtintoArubawiththeintentionofsalewillhavetopayduties At theexpirationoftemporarypermityachtwillhavetoleaveislandfor If theyachtwillstaylongerthanayear,havetobeimported. If theyachtstayslongerthan180daysanduptoayear,temporaryimportper- If theyachtstays180daysorless,atemporaryimportpermitwillneedtobe EXCERPT OFTHERULES: As ofOctober1st,anewprocedureforforeign-registeredyachtswillbeappliedby CUSTOMS For personsrequiringavisa:EventhoughArubaispartoftheNetherlands,visa Visa requirements:NoneforcitizensoftheUSA,CanadaorEuropeanUnion. When clearingin,askImmigrationforalongerperiodthanyouintendtostay. IMMIGRATION As reportedinSailWorld.comonAugust20th,theprospectofobtainingretireeresi- cedula pensionados . In the past, although permanent residency was given to retirees from . Inthepast,althoughpermanentresidencywasgiventoretireesfrom ) will now be eligible for the permanent resident identification ) willnowbeeligibleforthepermanentresidentidentification OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5
JEAN VALLETTE , Fajardo —Continued on next page at • Complementary Cable TV and Wi-Fi • Water and Electricity • Restrooms and Showers • Laundry Facilities • Nearby Ship's Chandlery and Convenience Store • Near Small Eateries and Upscale Elegant Restaurants such as El Conquistador Hotel and Casino • US Custom and Immigration Located 1/2 mile Away by Dinghy • Ample Parking www.sunbaymarina.com AMENITIES Join us today and be part of our family. our webpage VISIT US! 787.863.0313 787.863.5282 [email protected] ¡ open 7 days a week from 8:00 am to 4:00 pm or at the Administration Office at the Marina, T: F: E: Parcelas Beltrán, Bo. Sardinera, Fajardo, Puerto Rico • Professional and Courteous Staff • 282 Fixed Slips • Wide Concrete Finger Piers • On-Site Fuel Dock and Diesel Delivered on all Slips except on Dock “A” • Safety, Cleanliness and Service is our Primary Concern • Whole Area Patrolled by 24 Hour Security • Camera Surveillance • Official Cruising Station of SSCA THE DIFFERENCE IS THE DIFFERENCE IS ...... The new board members are Bulent Gulay, President; Thierry Girard, Vice-President; Bulent Gulay, President; Thierry Girard, Vice-President; The new board members are For more information visit www.metimer.fr. Four Jailed for Tobago Cays Burglary were given jail terms follow- Four residents of the tiny Grenadine island of Mayreau of family and friends from The yacht had been chartered in Grenada by a group ordered Forde and In addition to the jail terms, Senior Magistrate Sonia Young Chris Doyle says, “I always found Willie to be engaging and entertaining. He had a be engaging and entertaining. “I always found Willie to Chris Doyle says, Trades Group’s New Board St. Martin Marine a new in St. Martin, elected for maritime professionals Métimer, the association Brigitte Delaitre, Secretary; Régine Hee, Treasurer; Alain LePrince, President of the Régine Hee, Treasurer; Alain LePrince, President of the Brigitte Delaitre, Secretary; RoozendaaL, President of the Metices Committee; Metidive Committee; Fanoula St. Maarten; and Anke Roosens, member responsible for relations with Dutch Dutch St. Maarten; and Bastiaan De Rooij, member responsible for relations with Isabelle Bonnefoy, Committees Secretary. on August 17th. ing the burglary of a yacht anchored in the Tobago Cays was sentenced to nine According to local newspaper reports, Jordan Forde (18) of cash from the yacht, months and Jason Alexander (25) six months for the theft to three and four and Tanisha Forde (18) and Jenelia Forde (28) were sentenced months respectively for receiving stolen property. for a barbecue. They sub- New York, who had secured the yacht and gone ashore sequently reported the theft to the Union Island police. remorse. Although Forde, Alexander to write a letter to the visitors expressing their allowed to pay a fine instead who reportedly had two prior convictions, asked to be before her court and of serving time, the magistrate stated that anyone brought found guilty of breaking into yachts would be sent to prison. on his head, blades flapping like three ears: ‘It’s my Kadooment costume, officer!’” ‘It’s my Kadooment costume, flapping like three ears: on his head, blades well built, humor. He was stout and and was always full of good twinkle in his eye was his to have on your side. His word and tough — a good guy looked strong added color to wonderful character who necessary. He was a bond, no contracts scene, and he will be missed.” the waterfront 10th. The group Meeting on September at its 12th Annual General board of directors of the yachting industry, nautical tourism, recreational works for the development trades, in cooperation with other bodies in the pub- marine services and associated lic and private sectors. what we do and the way we do it. we do it. what we do and the waywhat we do and the way Left to right: Anke Roosens, Régine Hée, Thierry Girard, Bastiaan de Rooij, Isabelle Régine Hée, Thierry Girard, Bastiaan de Rooij, Isabelle Left to right: Anke Roosens, Leprince, Fanoula Roozendaal and Brigitte Delaître Bonnefoy, Bulent Gulay, Alain
NICOLA CORNWELL Close to: directed by the SVG Maritime Administration, the ship- directed by the SVG Maritime went aground between Middle Cay and West Cay, Bequia. As the St. went aground between Middle is a tradition, in family boatingis a tradition, in family boating is a tradition, in family boatingis a tradition, in family boating Continued from previous page Continued from Eight Bells often cruised the Willie Hassell was a well-known Barbados yachtsman who as a man who was friend- Friends say Willie lived life to its utmost and describe him The owner reportedly plans to have ship removed as soon as possible in a manner The owner reportedly plans to have ship removed as soon the Bequia “mainland”, Smaller vessels can use a pass between Middle Cay and Vessel Aground at West Cay, Bequia Vessel Aground while southbound, a cargo vessel from Dominica calledOn the night of August 23rd “Many cruising sailors have reached the San Blas, decided they are already in San Blas, decided they are sailors have reached the “Many cruising they’re making from all points and now always welcomed foreigners “Panama has Vincent & the Grenadines coast guard vessel responding to the mayday call apparentlyVincent & the Grenadines coast the grounded vessel’s crew were taken off by locals andcould not get close enough, yachtsmen in small boats. As much commercial diving work Grenadines. He died on August 27th, in his 70s. He did and his son, Michael, ran in the islands, and in Barbados before his retirement, he end of the inner Bridgetown Willie’s Diving and Marine Services, located in the south continues the business. Harbour (also known as the Shallow Draft Harbour). Michael accounts, was addicted to ly, generous and honest, who loved to sail and, by many of St. Lucia recalls, “He got a crab-backs. He also had a sense of humor. Ian Cowan on his way back to Barbados large Brunton propellor via my shop, and when he was at the airport. He took the by plane I asked how he was going to deal with Customs packing, and placed it prop out of its box, sat the thing on top of its conical styrene owner had the fuel pumped from the vessel on August 31st. It was later reported owner had the fuel pumped on September 7th, for less that a slick of diesel was sighted in the vicinity of the ship assessment, a small than three hours. According to the Maritime Administration’s at low tide. A September amount of fuel had been trapped in the hull and escaped of a fuel leak. 8th examination of the ship showed no further evidence aimed at preventing damage to the environment. Middle Cay and West Cay! but it’s probably best to swim across the shoal between Love Divine heaven, and stayed as long as they could. Now that decision has just become easi- Now that decision has just stayed as long as they could. heaven, and act of the Panamanian government. er by a recent visa has just Resident’ visa. The with its new ‘Immediate Permanent it even easier Panama of 22 countries that into law and applies to residents recently passed the country.” and economic ties with maintained friendly diplomatic deems to have — OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 Marina, helditsinauguralYouthSailTrainingProgrammefromAugust13ththrough com or(868)761-3534. needed asailingschooltoprovideopportunitiesforeveryoneontheisland. Andrew Llanos,SamuelQuaminaandMalcolmJohnson,decidedthatTobago Sarazin, aformerOlympicteamsailorwho,togetherwithSeanClarke,DavidMilne, Rodriguez, AkilaJackandMichaelRodriguez. by NathanielClarke;andthreeawardsforMostImprovedSailorwonVenice Outstanding GirlSailor,wonbyRheaMangaroo;MostBoy Optimist dinghysailingproficiencycertificatesandthereweretrophiesforMost assessed bytheteamofTobagoSailingSchoolinstructors.Allstudentsearned into practice,outatsea,ontheirownindinghies,andwerecontinually Sailing Associationorganizedthesailingcamp—afirstinTobago. Youth AffairsandSport,TobagoHouseofAssemblytheTrinidad& port oftheSportsCompanyTrinidad&TobagoandDivisionEducation, for All”ontheisland.Itfollowsasuccessfultwo-weekSummerSailingCampheldat — A newcomertothedaycharterindustryinStLucia, New YouthSailingProgrammeinSt.Lucia For moreinformationcontactMalcolmJohnsonattobagosailingschool@gmail. The TobagoSailingSchool,anon-profitorganization,wasthebrainchildofFrank At theendofcampalltraineesailorswereabletoputtheirsailingskills The newlyformedTobagoSailingSchoolisnowofferingaprogrammeof“Sailing Tobago SailingSchoolFormed Continued frompreviouspage the safetyaspectsofsailing. manual, whichincludedspecialfocuson ing. Parentswereissuedwithareference put themintopracticeand,finally,rac- afloat, howtobuildtheirsailingskillsand taught therulesofsafety,howtoget mandatory swimtest,thechildrenwere Tobago SailingAssociation.Followinga to asyllabusaccreditedtheTrinidad& dren, agedsevento17,wereintroduced to August3rd.Duringthecourse,45chil- Pigeon PointHeritageParkfromJuly23rd The TobagoSailingSchoolwiththesup-
Jus’ Sail,basedinRodneyBay of theCaribbeanthroughresearchandeducation.Visittheirsiteat at Yachting AssociationofGrenada,isavailable at tractors whosharedtheirexperienceandtimewiththestudentsoverweek. Bay MarinaandBoatYard,forhissupportoftheprogrammeallstaffcon- students, Jus’SailwouldliketothankAdamFoster,GeneralManagerofIGYRodney terms offinancialassistanceandstafftimeIGYRodneyBayMarina.Onbehalfthe the programmegrowingismadeallmorepossiblebygeneroussponsorshipin gramme willbecomeanannualeventwithincreasedparticipation.Thelikelihoodof tificates ofsatisfactoryparticipation. Secondary School.Allthreestudentscompletedtheprogrammeandreceivedcer- — wereacceptedintotheprogrammethroughapartnershipwithCorinth of variouspossiblecareerswithinthemarinesector. aboard anauthenticCarriacousloop, tage ofWestIndiansailingthroughanintroductiontothebasicsseamanship 19th. Thepurposeoftheprogrammewastoreconnectparticipantswithheri- Flora: Flora oftheorphanageatIle-à-Vache,HaitiincludesavideointerviewSister www.flickr.com/photos/nationalarchives/sets/72157630651715976/show 40 feetLOA.Additionalanchorageareaswillbedesignatedforlargervessels. most yachtstousetheirownanchors.Thesystemwillbedesignedforofup bered buoyswillreplacetheremainingfew12-incholdandendneedfor cent totheErrolFlynnMarinafor2012-13operatingseason.Thenew18-inchnum- tated foreaseofuse. Dominican Republic.Thereare20percentmorechartsinthenewedition,allanno- includes expandedcoverageforremoteareassuchasthesouthwestpartof at Dominican Republic Index (CSI)asafreePDF.Andnowthefiftheditionof FreeCruisingGuides.com isthelatestfour-monthupdateofitsCaribbeanSecurity Place section.Goodtohaveyouwithus! Crackajack carrentalsofTrinidad,andRichardDeyauthor,bothintheMarket of Martinique,onpage19;CraigCatamaranstheUSA,25;and • TheJostvanDykePreservationSocietyisworkingtomaintainonebeautifulcorner • GrenadaGrenadinesYachting,themagazineproducedbyMarineand • TheBahamasSailingAssociation’snewwebsiteisnowlive.Checkitout Cruisers’ Site-ings For moreinformationonJus’Sailanditsyouthprogrammevisitwww.jussail.com. Jus’ Sail’shusband-and-wifeteam,JamesandPepsiCrockett,hopethatthepro- Three students—LanceJean(16),PrinceStanislas(15)andJnPierrePrudent(14) • There’salothappeningatFreeCruisingGuides.com.Thenewsub-siteforSister • See“BarbadosofthePast”,imagesfromBarbadosMuseumcollection,at In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! For [email protected]. A 25-buoymooringfieldisplannedforPortAntonio,Jamaica’sWestHarbouradja- Mooring FieldPlannedforPortAntonio,Jamaica http://flipflashpages.uniflip.com/3/67439/132262/pub www.BAHsailing.org. www.freecruisingguides.com http://freecruisingguides.com/sister-flora-orphanage-2 Compass by FrankVirgintinoisdownloadableasafreePDF wewelcomenewadvertisersAssurancesMaritimeAntilles . The5theditionhas38additionalpagesand Good Expectation A CruisingGuidetothe . , whilegivinganoverview . Alsoat www.jvdps.org . . OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 magazine’s Green Initiative award magazine’s Green Initiative award Practical Boat Owner
For more information on IGY marinas visit www.igymarinas.com. For more information on Rodney Bay Marina see ad on page 8. Free Storage with Brokerage at Marina ZarPar Frank Virgintino reports: Marina ZarPar in the Dominican Republic has installed a The boat can stay free at Marina ZarPar until it sells, and then is billed for only the We expect to see the trend of increasing volume and increasing value of vessel to We expect to see the trend of increasing volume and come to visit as well as to The BVI attracts sailors from all around the world, who British Virgin Islands and the We have found a very strong connection between our For more information see ad on page 40. Three IGY Marinas Receive Five Gold Anchors The three premier marinas in the IGY Yacht Haven Grande Collection — Yacht BVI Yacht Sales Keeps Selling Boats! BVI Yacht Sales Keeps Selling Sales is proving that even in a ‘recession economy’ Brian Duff reports: BVI Yacht Nissan Outboards Now at Island Water World Nissan Outboards engines from Nissan. Competitively now carries outboard Island Water World models including a 15-horsepower version. Also available are four-stroke check Island Water World’s E-commerce website, For more information, please BUSINESS BRIEFS BUSINESS in 2011. comprehensive yacht brokerage program, Boatmax. normal broker’s commission of ten percent. There is absolutely no storage fee to be paid unless the boat is removed from the program before it sells. Owners decide the selling price. The boat is listed at the marina and also on the Yachtworld website (www.yachtworld.com), as Boatmax is a member of that listing service. —Continued on next page continue throughout this coming season. While now might not be the best time to continue throughout this coming season. While now might is active and boats are sell- sell your boat, it’s certainly not a bad time: the market ing because people still want to go sailing. States has been the buy and use their boats here. While in past years the United noticed this year a reduc- source of the majority of our buyers and sellers, we have has traditionally been the tion in buyers from the USA down ten percent. Europe we are seeing an second major source of sailors visiting our islands. However, of the world, which is really increase of over 20 percent in visitors from other parts of buyers from New Zealand, promising for our community on the whole. The arrival Canada has really helped Australia and in particular South American countries and and Europe over the past offset the effects of the troubled economies of the USA off in October: restau- few years. Each year our Caribbean Season typically kicks again in large numbers — the rants and hotels re-open and the visitors start coming again as well. weather cools off a bit and the sailors come back down sailing community of the northeast United States, a great reason to make the effort each year to set up a booth and display at the Annapolis Boat Show, held over the Columbus Day holiday each year. This show is attended by as many as 100,000 sail- ing and yachting enthusiasts and is a great place to meet new boaters, encourage visits to the Caribbean, and see lots of old friends as well. We sincerely hope to see you up there at Booth L10. And as always, please visit us at www.bviyachtsales.com. Haven Grande, St. Thomas; Rodney Bay Marina, St. Lucia; and The Yacht Club at Isle de Sol, St. Maarten — have each been awarded Five Gold Anchors by the Yacht Harbour Association (TYHA). The Gold Anchor Award Scheme is a voluntary assessment program, which is focused on customer service and providing quality moorings for the boat owner. The ratings range from one to five Gold Anchors and provide assurance of the credibility and quality of the marina when assessed against the technical criteria based on TYHA’s Code of Practice for the design, construction and operation of marinas. Marinas are assessed by fully qualified marina assessors, berth holders’ feedback and independent mystery shoppers. The program operates in 23 countries and has been active for 24 years. Recently, the program was given folks still want to go sailing. 2012 to date has been a much busier year than the pre- folks still want to go sailing. 18 percent; and more promising still we have found vious with volume up about have literally doubled relative to 2011 — showing sales of vessels over US$125,000 gaining the confidence to go sailing, but they are that not only are more buyers doing it on nicer boats as well. priced with a clean and simple design, the Nissan two-stroke two-cylinder engine Nissan two-stroke two-cylinder clean and simple design, the priced with a on the market — not only in terms of power-to- remains one of the best engines reliability. Island Water World carries a full range weight ratio, but also with excellent including 18-horsepower models. from 3.5 to 30 horsepower, and see ad on page 48. www.islandwaterworld.com OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 —Continuedonnextpage your boat?Recipesthatdon’trequirea bunch ofelectricalappliances? Good food,butnotgourmet?Usingingredients youcanactuallyfindandstoreon [email protected], (758)453-7065or 723-6668. an AccidentandFraudInvestigatorwith Expert WitnessGuidelines. qualified tosurveyfishingvessels,yachtsand smallvesselsandisalsofullyqualifiedas Lucia, whoresidesintheCastriesarea,isnowafullyqualifiedMasterMarineSurveyor With yearsofcommercialshippingexperiencebehindhim,OlsenMcQuilkinfromSt. now hasanewlyqualifiedmemberoftheUnitedStatesMarineSurveyorsAssociation. tion withtheMaritimeSchoolofWestIndies. Training Association(www.CaribbeanSailTrainingAssociation.com)andincoopera- islands thepossibilitytosailonshipasatraineethroughCaribbeanSail 11th andsailone-two-weekchartersaroundtheLeewardVirginIslands. as fromthenewseason.Theover100-year-oldvesselwillarrivearoundDecember pany madethedecisiontoworkwiththeiragent,YachtAssistance,outofSt.Martin received atFortLouisMarinaandthehospitalityonentireisland,owningcom- before crossingtheAtlanticbacktoEurope.Thanksgreatservicesthey eral filmsincluding“BlueLagoon”,“SavageIsland”,“Tai-Pan”and“WhiteSquall”. Marina inMarigotontheFrenchsideofSt.Martin.Theshiphasbeenfeaturedsev- — have thetimeforyou. just abouteverythingelse.Wehavetheexpertise,weinsurersand dinks todreadnoughts,watersports,pleasure,charter,cargo,serviceprovidersand ance isouronlybusiness.Weprovidealltypesofmarineinsuranceworldwide,from about yourbusiness. Have insurance“surprises”?Alwayshaveyourcallreturned? source rate?Doyouoftenknowmorethanyouragent?Payshould? site. NowtheprogramwillbereplicatedinCaribbeanatMarinaZarPar. for thepast17years,withanaverageof100boatsinprogramatalltimeson believe thisistheonlyprogramofitstype.IthasworkedexcellentlyatMinneford’s marina.com) onCityIslandinNewYork,afacilitythatIhaveownedsince1982. Looking forsomenewrecipesthatyoucan actuallymakeinyourboat’sgalley? Sneak PeekSampleofBoatGalleyCookbook Mr. McQuilkincanbecontactedforany kindofmarinesurveyworkatomc- Boat captains,owners,brokersandinsurancecompaniesareinformedthatSt.Lucia New MarineSurveyorinSt.Lucia For moreinformationvisitwww.EyeOfTheWind.net. Besides thecharters, The shipvisitedtheislandlastseasonforfirsttimeduringathree-daystopover The brigantine Tall ShiptoBaseatSt.MartinThisWinter For moreinformationseeadonpage37. Offshore RiskManagementInsuranceBrokers&Intermediariessay:Marineinsur- You needaSpecialistInsuranceBroker,notpart-timeagentthatknowslittle Offshore RiskManagementasks:Howdoesyourmarineorwatersportsinsurance Specialist MarineInsuranceBroker For moreinformationonMarinaZarParseeadpage35. The Boatmaxprogramwasstartedin1995atMinnefordMarina(www.minneford- Continued frompreviouspage Eye oftheWind Eye oftheWind willbebasedthiswinteronthepieratFortLouis alsooffersyoungstersintheCaribbean offers Boatmaxbrokerage Dominican Republicnow Marina ZarParinthe OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 Get your Get your yourself! Jamaican models Kimanee Wilson and Jaunel McKenzie have a new ‘insiders’ app for Caribbean travelers The Boat Galley Cookbook Sampler The Boat Galley Cookbook due out this month, promises all that plus information promises all that plus due out this month, Continued from previous page Continued from The Boat Galley Cookbook, The Boat Galley “We wanted to provide other travelers with a guide that gave more than just a list McKenzie and Wilson also realized that not every traveler is comfortable pursuing McKenzie said it was important that the mobile application provide similar func- “With the growing number of smartphone users, our company is providing a more The easy-to-use MyTravel Insider mobile app will be available on both Apple and Travelers can sign up today with MyTravel Insider at www.mytravelinsider.com. Like But here’s the neat part — you can have a sneak peek of it right now, for free. a sneak peek of it right now, neat part — you can have But here’s the galley refer- as “the one comprehensive book, at 464 pages, is billed The complete Caribbean Marine Directory and Rating Program Caribbean Marine Directory launch a comprehensive Caribbean Marine Free Cruising Guides will shortly Watch this space! Cruising Guides see ad on page 37. For more information on Free Caribbean Alternatives MyTravel Insider: Convenient islands are looking for the kind of unique Modern travelers to the Caribbean for genuine alternatives to the standard locations “Travelers today are looking there was not a conve- Wilson and McKenzie have noted that during their travels, from the traditional guide.Two exclusive MyTravel Insider features truly separate it First, their unique “nearby” feature provides users a real-time map displaying services and destinations near the user directly on their mobile device, even without an inter- net connection; and the island-specific “musts” is a budget-friendly top ten list of activities Wilson and McKenzie feel really give travelers a true Caribbean experience. of popular destinations, we wanted travelers to have authentic Caribbean adven- tures,” Wilson said. “With that in mind, we created the ‘musts’ list, an overview of activities on each island that really enables travelers to experience the Caribbean culture and lifestyle.” adventures on their own and included a “native links” feature, a list of reputable local travel guides that users can contact directly from both the website and mobile device. tionality as the website because modern travelers expect technology to provide constant access to the same information. The MyTravel Insider app mirrors the web- site by providing businesses an opportunity to showcase their amenities with high quality slideshows on the website that are also appealing from handset-sized screens. The app not only provides these businesses’ contact information, it also pro- vides users with a convenient method of booking accommodations directly. efficient way to promote one’s business,” McKenzie added. “By providing a one- stop-shop for Caribbean travelers we’re able to conveniently connect businesses and travelers with one another.” Android platforms Fall 2012. them on Facebook www.facebook.com/mytravelinsider. Follow them on Twitter @mytravelinsider — on food storage, substitutions, outfitting your galley and more. Carolyn Shearlock galley and more. Carolyn substitutions, outfitting your on food storage, 21,000 miles cruisers with a combined the authors, are experienced and Jan Irons, under their keels. you can use but recipes and information fluffy marketing piece, And it’s not some on solving oven hot spots. recipes plus info right now: 33 boat-friendly copy at http://theboatgalley.com/sneak-peak-of-the-boat-galley-cookbook. cruising boat. It contains over 800 everyday recipes ence needed aboard every without electrical appliances, plus in-depth infor- made from obtainable ingredients But techniques, food storage, substitutions and more.” mation on unfamiliar cooking try don’t take their word for it — Directory and Rating Program. The Directory will be like other directories, however, The Directory will be like other directories, however, Directory and Rating Program. will be able to assign a one- through five-star rating the difference will be that users and leave comments as well. This program is sched- for the service they received 1st. uled to launch by December found in travel guides. Jamaican supermodels Kimanee adventures that cannot be know all too well about this and have started MyTravel Wilson and Jaunel McKenzie unfulfilled needs when traveling. Insider as a response to their “Today’s traveler wants a that everyone goes to when traveling,” McKenzie said. want to wait and sift through unique experience and they want it now; they don’t way of finding it and brochures to find that experience, they want a convenient booking it.” — one that provides the kind nient mobile application specialized to the Caribbean access to, while also allow- of information and recommendations only natives had they made sure to ing them to book directly. When they developed the service, these benefits, including a include specific functions that could give every traveler location and reviews and “nearby” function showing services in proximity to a user’s further prides itself on being ratings from fellow Caribbean travelers. MyTravel Insider “off-the-beaten-path” hidden able to provide intrepid travelers with highlights of the accommodations, beaches, gems as well as popular spots and detailed reviews of dining and nightlife. OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 Tyrrel BayYachtClub.FormanyyearstheClub restaurant, storeandlodgingformerlyknownasthe and themergingofitsoperationswithadjacent ownership oftheformerTyrrelBayHaul-Outfacility Lizzy on ward toassumetheleadershiproleareHarmand and bestwishesintheirnewlifestyle.Steppingfor- hearty thank-youfortheirmanyyearsofhardwork CCEF andtheentirecruisingcommunityoffera their leadershipandenthusiasmwillbemissed. were adrivingforcebehindCCEFformanyyears,and moving ashoreinFlorida,USA.JohnandMelodye retired fromthecruisinglife,sellingtheirsailboatand Children’s Education Support Carriacou Regatta-Time Fundraisers John andMelodyePompaon that, after18yearscruisingtheEasternCaribbean, TA MarryshowCommunityCollege. Harvey Valeschoolchildren),andscholarshipstothe and supplies,MealsfromKeels(lunchesforneedy CCEF projects,includingprovidingschooluniforms involved. Asalways,allproceedscollectedwillfund campaign broughtsmilestothefacesofeveryone north andtheresultsofCCEF’s2012fundraising annual regattaweek.Butthestormpassedto ties thattraditionallytakeplaceduringCarriacou’s ened cancellationofCCEF’smajorfundraisingactivi- tions. Thenthepossibilityofatropicalstormthreat- Carriacou Children’sEducationFund(CCEF)opera- to datemorethanEC$185,000(US$69,000). the CarriacouChildren’sEducationFund’sdonations and localbusinessesoveradozenyearshaspropelled More changesresultedfromtherecentchangein One ofthesignificantchangesinoperationswas CCEF OperationalChanges There wereseveralchangesthisyearinthe Continued supportfromthecruisingcommunity S/V Horta . S/V SecondMillennium by GordonEvans
12-year totaltooverEC$185,000 announcing theoverallfundraisingresults.Moredonationswerereceivedafterphotoshoot,bringing ‘We donegood!’TheCarriacouChildren’sEducationFundcruiservolunteersfor2012inatraditionalgroupphoto —Continuedonnextpage the auction. items, aswelluseoftheNightClub’sbalconyfor Arawak Divers,asstoragespaceforthedonated the AfterOursNightClub,locateddirectlyabove contributions. FrankieMathesongenerouslyoffered iting cruisers’donationsofitemsforauctionandcash their shoptoserveasthenewcollectionpointforvis- Yacht Clubforhispastcontributions. auction itself.Abigthank-youisduetoTrevorofthe CCEF’s AnnualCruisers’PotluckBarbecueandthe donated toCCEF’sannualcharityauction,andhosted served asthecollectionandstoragelocationforitems George andConnieofArawakDiversvolunteered OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 , , Anna Allegra Desio Caribbean Compass All At Sea deserves special recognition for collecting deserves special recognition This year’s CCEF fundraising activities culminated This year’s CCEF fundraising Many Thanks Congratulations are due to all involved and heart-felt Now, help us make our next goal: surpassing the gain table” of boat parts, electronics and all manner of boat parts, electronics and gain table” of table; books items; a household goods miscellaneous At about hats, T-shirts and more. and charts table; of larger Harm began the auctioning 1600 hours Auctioned by Gordon and George. items, assisted printer, a laptop computer, computer items included wind vane microwave, sea drogue, sewing machine, certifi- artwork and prints, several steering, original a for two” at nearby restaurants, cates for “dinners and a haul- a massage, a scuba lesson, gourmet cake, facility. While a number of out at Tyrrel Bay’s haul-out sale tables, John on volunteers assisted at the various S/V Nerissa “bargain table”. Despite an astounding EC$945 at the at the auction because of a much smaller attendance conditions, the auction the storm threat and rainy of EC$5,820. resulted in a total collection at Kate and Daniela’s on Thursday, August 5th traditional photo session Slipway Restaurant, with the 2012 results. Although and announcement of the on fundraising during weather had an adverse impact several cash dona- the Carriacou Regatta activities, bolstered the overall tions during the year significantly the collection of a results. Harm proudly announced for 2012’s campaign. record-setting EC$29,457 a couple days later Deposit of an additional EC$4,335 collection of funds for raised CCEF’s 12-year total to over EC$185,000. Carriacou’s school children thank-yous to all who donated. Recognition is due the following businesses for their generous donations — AD Prints, After Ours, Artwork, Arawak Divers, Carriacou Marine Ltd, Easy Shopping Supermarket, Kato Charles Folk Art Studio, Kim’s Plaza Supermarket, Lambi Queen Restaurant, Lazy Turtle Pizzeria, Lumbadive, Massages by Genevieve, Patty’s Deli, Regatta Jupa, Simply Carriacou Boutique, Slipway Restaurant, Tanty Lizzy’s Seaside Fountain, and Twilight Restaurant — and to everyone who makes CCEF’s free WiFi possible in Tyrrel Bay. EC$200,000 milestone in 2013’s CCEF campaign. Drop items for auction and cash contributions by Arawak Divers when you pass through Carriacou. See Daniela at the Slipway Restaurant for CCEF’s WiFi service. And mark Carriacou on your calendar for the 2013 Annual Carriacou Regatta! presenting original art- S/V Horta This event is more than an auction, with several With what was eventually to become Hurricane Hurricane eventually to become With what was work by Anna Allegra Desio to Melodye and John Pompa as a thank-you gift from CCEF Harm and Lizzy of Ernesto looming as an increasing threat to Carriacou, Ernesto looming as an increasing threat to Carriacou, on the Thursday a number of vessels sought refuge in the large mangrove lagoon adjacent to Tyrrel Bay. The yacht racing skippers’ meeting scheduled for that evening, as well as Friday’s Around the Island yacht race, were postponed, but CCEFs Annual Auction was held as scheduled at 1500 hours on the Friday afternoon. tables set up to sell donated items at whatever price can be negotiated. Tables included the popular “bar- and the attendance and raffle ticket donations com- and raffle ticket donations and the attendance efforts. EC$440 to CCEF’s fundraising bined to add see full Carriacou Regatta cov- , began distributing flyers to ves- , began distributing Compass]. On July 27th, Harm Compass]. On July 27th, S/V Dreamcatcher Continued from previous page Continued from Gordon also sold raffle tickets for the increasingly Events During Carriacou Regatta 2012 Events During Carriacou during the 48th annual On July 25th, to Carriacou, along A number of first-time visitors late Wednesday after- About 45 cruisers gathered Daniela of the Slipway Restaurant, located close to close to Slipway Restaurant, located Daniela of the popular Potluck Raffle of several items donated by popular Potluck Raffle of several items donated by local businesses. Raffle tickets could be bought at two for EC$5, but shrewd buyers opted to purchase five for EC$10. Following dinner and a last-second flurry of raffle ticket purchases, Gordon raffled the prizes. Although attendance was understandably smaller than in recent years, a good time was enjoyed by all, Regatta, Harm and Lizzy, assisted by Judy and Gordon and Lizzy, assisted by Judy Regatta, Harm on in both CCEF’s with seasoned cruisers, participated activities and the races [ erage in last month’s Lizzy’s Seaside Fountain noon, August 1st, at Tanty Potluck Barbecue, restaurant for the Annual Cruisers’ fundraising during the kick-off event for CCEF’s again organized this year’s Regatta. Judy and Gordon potluck, collecting EC$5 contributions from those attending. Tanty Lizzy’s is a new venue for this event, and although Tanty Lizzy was off-island, her son Eric provided two barbecue grills set up next to the covered picnic tables by the beach, as well as another canopied picnic table. Inside the restaurant Eric provided a large table for the various potluck dishes that cruisers brought to share, as well as a number of smaller tables for those who chose to eat their dinners inside. Thanks are due to Eric for his hospitality and his donation of charcoal, and to his son Deisean, who assisted Eric in distributing liquid refreshments at the cash bar. the haul-out facility, has assumed responsibility for for facility, has assumed responsibility the haul-out free WiFi ser- password for CCEF’s distributing the from users of voluntary donations vice and collecting that service. and to local businesses, sels anchored in Tyrrel Bay activities. detailing the upcoming CCEF local CCEF and Regatta began broadcasting the by the week- Cruisers’ Net on the VHF. Unfortunately, to the southeast end a developing tropical disturbance a major topic of con- of the Windward Islands became Wednesday of Regatta versation. Monday through that had gathered in Tyrrel week, a number of vessels farther south. Although Bay decided to head for parts by-passed Carriacou, a number of others en route stayed. fortunately, a few arrived and — OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 Participants ofallagescameouttoenjoythe Yacht Club(PCYC)inGrenadaonJuly21st. Cat MatchRaceshostedbythePetitCalivigny Friendly competitionflowedduringtheHobie Hobie RacesatGrenada’sNewestYachtClub REGATTA NEWS
members arewelcome. Grenada, particularlyintheCalivignyBayarea.New siasts tosupportyachtingeventsandwatersportsin ed amoreefficientraceday. for supplyingtwoadditionalHobiecatswhichfacilitat- Marina forthevenue,andRexGrenadianResort Shop andPalmTreeMarineforprizes,LePhareBleu Bob Goodchild(third). Kenzo Szyjan(first),AdamBrown(second),and the island’ssouthcoast.Winningplaceswentto superb dayofracingatLePhareBleuMarinaon For moreinformationvisitwww.pcycgrenada.com. The PCYCwasformedbyagroupofboatingenthu- The PCYCwishestothankeventsponsorsCanvas —Continuedonnextpage fame inthesportofwindsurfing.) who journeyfromhumblebeginningstointernational documentary tellingthestoryofchildrenfromBonaire (Click onthetrailerfor“ChildrenofWind”toseea or theFacebookpageProkidsWindsurfingBonaire. learn ortohoneyourwindsurfingskills. windward sideoftheisland,thereisperfectwindto In theprotectedandshallowwatersofLacBayon the windswerescreaming,soshowwasexciting! great performancesonthewater.Thesecondday years old:justtoocutetowatch! under ageseven,withtheyoungestbeingonlytwo the USAandtwofromHolland.Thereweresixsailors Aruba, 15fromCuraçao,twoMexico,one there were47participantsfromBonaire,two ticipants down—madeforgreatentertainment. department usesthebighosestotryknockpar- more inflatablefloatingobstacles—allwhilethefire across acourseoftrampolines,logs,junglegymsand Telbo BigSplashcompetition,whereparticipantsrace beach soccer,plusbands,barsandbarbecues.The up paddleboardraces,dominos,bocceball,and ed windsurffreestyleandslalomcompetitions,stand- Bonaire Windsurfersorganization.Theprograminclud- ebrated the25thanniversaryofAquaspeed Championship, heldAugust2ndthrough5th,alsocel- For moreinformationvisitwww.prokidsfreestyle.com The firstdaythewindsweremild,yettherestill Including manyofthetop-rankedsailorsinworld, The 8thProKidsBonaireFreestyleandSlalom Kids RockBonaireWindsurfChampionship
OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 A Catamaran Class has now been added to those Class has now been added A Catamaran social activities over There will be plenty of fantastic on page 13. For more information see ad Barbados Race New Rapier Trophy for Round Mount Gay Rum Round A new trophy comes to the approach that This trophy celebrates the innovative In the early 1970s yacht racing in the region was sti- Mount Gay Rum have been warmly welcomed on on have been warmly welcomed Mount Gay Rum World, Sponsors, with Island Water board as Silver and Body Holiday, Johnson’s Hardware Cap Maison, Lucia Yacht as Bronze Sponsors. The St. Food Express and others grateful to all sponsors Club is extremely this a variety of prizes to support who are donating inaugural regatta. combined Cruising Yachts, and the of Racing Yachts, start and Class Yachts. All races will J/24 and Surprise of room for spectators. finish in Rodney Bay with plenty and Surprise Class will The main event of the J/24 30-minute races over the comprise three sets of three races for each of the two days, with three longer Class monohulls and Racing Class monohulls, Cruising Cruising Class catamarans. Club and the Marina, the weekend, both at the Yacht and the formal prizegiving. including a welcome party Watch this space next month! Rapier Trophy will be Barbados Racing Series. The the best corrected time for awarded to the yacht with island as calculated the circumnavigation of the Handicap Rule. under the CSA Measurement to measurement handi- Al Rapier of Trinidad applied capping of yachts in the Caribbean. His work has enabled yachts to race throughout the region over the past 40 years using a measurement system that allows the yacht to be measured in the water. The sys- tem flourishes today as one of the most practical and fair handicap systems in the world: the Caribbean Sailing Association’s Racing Rule. fled by the lack of an active regional body to man- age the sport and by the lack of a credible handi- cap system under which to race. Into that void came Al Rapier who, encouraged by others in Trinidad, especially Sydney Knox, came up with a solution. From that work and the input of others from Antigua, Barbados, the US and British Virgin Islands, the West Indies Yachting Association, now the Caribbean Sailing Association, was born and the regional regattas we know today found a platform on which to play. —Continued on next page VC7U )`VJ:R:Q:`RQ`Q%`1I 2013 REGATTa %R$V :`1JVR1`VI:J#Q%V%&'CVH `1H :VR: V .:`VCV%:`1J:5:C101$J7:7 SOUTH GRENADA SOUTH GRENADA WWW.SOUTHGRENADAREGATTA.COM goes to press. IGY goes to press. IGY
Compass &/+0: $0.& (3&"540$*"- 1-"//&%'03 '6/$5*0/4"3& 5)&'6/ '3* 4"546/ You can expect great racing along St. Croix’s north great racing along St. Croix’s You can expect Be one of the lucky winners to be weighed on the For more information see ad on page 12. December: St. Lucia’s Inaugural Mango Bowl Regatta Excitement is building rapidly in anticipation of St. Marinas were quick to confirm a generous Gold Marinas were quick to confirm a generous Gold Sponsorship and support for future years. The Ocean Club in Rodney Bay Marina, Nagico Insurance and committee has pulled out all stops to draw sailors from pulled out all stops to draw committee has 48 States. Caribbean and the upper throughout the dock Island Channel, free (limited) shore and Buck for all classes, an experienced space, race courses for all live entertainment, trophies Race Committee, in rum for winning skipper’s weight classes PLUS the service, seven or more entrants, shuttle any class with Immigration on site and expedited Customs clearance islands, affordable accommoda- services for down taxi and shuttle service tions ($50-a-night condos), and free airport transfers from the St. Croix Yacht Club, (advance notice please!). club’s Famous Cruzan Rum Scales! The scales date back 20 years and were originally built for Mumm’s Champagne — the weighing of a winning skipper is a Mumm’s tradition. In 1992, Peter Holmberg was the first winning skipper to get his weight in Champagne. Today, winning skippers are weighed in Cruzan Rum. Register now! Lucia’s new Mango Bowl Regatta taking place December 1st and 2nd, with nearly EC$38,000 worth of sponsorship already committed and more expect- ed as this issue of : ND Check SLYC Website for prgress on “FEEDER Website Check SLYC FROM BARBADOS TO RACE” YACHT AT STARTING ST LUCIA, RODNEY BAY, 24. MIDNIGHT ON NOVEMBER INCLUDING
and racing
will race together with & 2 ST CLASSES
YACHT
- SLYC SAILING CAPTAIN Cell : +1758 4841003 SAILING CAPTAIN - SLYC will also receive trophies for 1st, 2nd & 3rd - SAILING COMMITTEE MEMBER Cell : +1758 5187784 SENIOR will also receive trophies for 1st, 2nd & 3rd
if you pay & enter before ALL
US$100.00 DECEMBER I TO
4-:$XFCTJUFGPSQBZNFOUEFUBJMT 'SBODL$IFWSJFS XXXTUMVDJBZBDIUDMVCDPN CONTACTS: &EHBS3PF an overall Cash Prize plus Sponsor Trophies on Handicap plus Sponsor Trophies an overall Cash Prize Series for 1st, 2nd & 3rd for the Short Nine Race will receive trophies for 1st, 2nd & 3rd %JTDPVOU &OUSZ'FF November16th. Friday Visit: 4QPOTPST*ODMVEF OPEN THE INAUGURAL ST LUCIA YACHT CLUB THE INAUGURAL ST LUCIA YACHT t4VSQSJTF$MBTT+$MBTT t4VSQSJTF$MBTT t+$MBTT t3BDJOH$SVJTJOH$MBTT:BDIUTQMVT$SVJTJOH$MBTT$BUBNBSBOT Continued from previous page Continued from All the extras aside, Bonaire takes the sailing seriously, The week is finished off with the Budget Marine Ship- For more information visit: www.bonaireregatta.org. Next Month: St. Croix International Regatta 2012 Come race and celebrate the 20th anniversary of Bonaire Celebrates 45th Regatta This Month Bonaire Celebrates a bet for 27 began in 1968 with The Bonaire Regatta festival become an island-wide The Regatta has including domino, softball and youth football (soccer) including domino, softball and walks, runs, a swim to Klein tournaments, bicycle tours, a boat parade, barbe- Bonaire, a flag parade and cues and more. The waterfront road through town is closed and stands sell arts and crafts, food and drink. The regatta has grown into such an island tradition that the schools even close for the whole week. with categories for model micro-boats, Optimists, Sunfish, beach cats, windsurfers and traditional fishing boats, plus racing, cruising and open yacht classes. to-Shore Boat party where boats raft up along the shore and enjoy live bands on shore. The Bonaire Regatta is like no other — come and see for yourself! the St. Croix International Regatta. Registration and the Opening Party are November 8th, November 9th through 11th, with an entry fee of only US$100. Thanks to generous local sponsors, the regatta cases of beer between Captain Don Stewart and Ebo between Captain Don Stewart cases of beer Sailing 45th Bonaire International Domacasse. The October 7th through 13th. Regatta will run — OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 Trophy, presentedtoarecord-breakingdouble-hand- multihull; TheBarbadosCruisingClubDoubleHanded Rum MultihullTrophy,presentedtoarecord-breaking sented toarecord-breakingmonohull;TheMountGay The BarbadosTourismAuthoritySuperyachtTrophy,pre- Trophy, presentedtoarecord-breakingclassicyacht; Round BarbadosRace:TheErrolBarrowClassicYacht competing inthe77thAnniversaryMountGayRum petual trophiesawardedtorecord-breakingyachts — of 4hours,24minutes,27seconds Palmer ofBarbados,holdsthecurrentmultihullrecord Silver Bullet The AlRapiertrophyjoinsothercommemorativeper- Continued frompreviouspage 284-494-2830 Parts &Power: 284-494-3494 Marine MaintenanceSvcs: 284-494-2400 Cay Electronics: Tortola: 868-634-4272 Dockyard Electrics: 868-667-7158 Engine Tech Co.Ltd: Trinidad &Tobago: 340-775-9912 All PointsMarine: St. Thomas: 599-544-2051 Electec: St. Maarten: 758-450-0552 Martinek: St. Lucia: 340-776-6665 Coral BayMarine: St. John: 340-773-0289 St. CroixMarine: St. Croix: 596-596-787-196 Inboard DieselSvcs: Martinique: 473-439-2049 Enza Marine: 473-443-1667 Grenada Marine: Grenada: 767-448-2705 Dominica MarineCenter: Dominica: 784-457-3114 Caribbean Diesel: Bequia: 268-460-3049 Seagull Yacht Svcs: 268-460-1850 Marine PowerSvcs: Antigua: , acustomSupercat30ownedbyBryn C001
www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com BIM MEDIA GROUP, BARBADOS GROUP, MEDIA BIM Reliability. Durability. Simplicity. Simplicity. Durability. Durability. Reliability. staged onGrandAnseBeachfromFebruary1st Grenada SailingFestivalWorkBoatRegattawillbe ing itasaNationalSailingandCulturalEvent.The20th part ofGrenada’sIndependencecelebrations,profil- tional WorkBoatRegatta,tomakeitanevenbigger concentrate itsmanpowerandresourcesonthetradi- during thefirstweekofFebruary. are beingmanagedseparately,theywillbothoccur Although in2013theworkboatandyachtregattas experience oftraditionallocalworkboatracing. for aninternationalkeelboatfleet,andthemust-see Grenada SailingWeek2013 www.mountgayrumroundbarbadosrace.com. weight inMountGayRumExtraOld. Barbados RecordonJanuary21stwillwintheskipper’s Cola Cup,presentedtothefastestBarbadianyacht. sented tothefastestregionalyachtandTheCoca The MountGayRumCaribbeanChallengeShield,pre- presented toarecord-breakingsingle-handedyacht; ed yacht;TheAndrewBurkeSingleHandedTrophy, The GrenadaSailingFestivalBoardhasdecidedto Once againGrenadawillseeamixofgreatracing Grenada SailingFestivalWorkBoatRegattaandNew For moreinformationvisit And —anyyachtbreakinganexistingRound Relatives throughouttheCaribbean A FamilyofGeneratorswith —Continuedonnextpage the newGrenadaSailingWeek. a newboardwaselectedtoorganizeandmanage than 25membersoftheGrenadasailingcommunity, contact [email protected]. Grenada SailingWeek Sailing Week.Meanwhile,formoreinformationon established shortlyaswillaFacebookpage:Grenada Work BoatRegattavisitwww.grenadasailingfestival.com. regional sailingcalendar. ditional eventswillremainanimportantpartofthe that Grenada’suniqueblendofinternationalandtra- new GrenadaSailingWeekinitiativeandisconfident Lay DaySunday,February3rd. (February 1st),Saturday,MondayandTuesday,with on January31st,withracedaystheFriday ern coastsofGrenada.TheSkippers’Briefingwillbe great sailingconditionsaroundthewesternandsouth- through 5th,withracecoursesmakingthemostof Grenada SailingWeek,willbeheldFebruary1st and visitorsalike. ence ofseveralthousandovertheweekend—locals Petite Martinique.Theeventregularlyattractsanaudi- Sauteurs, WoburnandsisterislandsCarriacou ditional fishingcommunitiesofGrandMal,Gouyave, in wooden,sprit-riggedboatsamongtheisland’stra- through 3rd,providingspectacularcompetitiveracing DeCaul, PatrickBrathwaite,NicholasGeorge Left toright:MikeBingley,RichardSzyjan,Marc On September10th,outofanactiongroupmore New BoardforGrenadaSailingWeek The websitewww.grenadasailingweek.comwillbe For moreinformationontheGrenadaSailingFestival The GrenadaSailingFestivalBoardfullyendorsesthe The competitivekeelboatregatta,nowcalled OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 Rambler Region , will be returning Sojana Boat Captain, Marc Fitzgerald Boat Captain, Marc Fitzgerald Although it is never possible to Although it is never possible Sojana’s Sojana. , set the multihull course record of 40 in 2011. John Burnie’s ORMA 60, For more information visit www.caribbean600.rorc.org. Dinghy Concert to Open South Grenada Regatta 2013 The South Grenada Regatta committee is all set for The monohull course record of 40 hours 20 minutes There will be plenty of shoreside activities for sailors for sailors plenty of shoreside activities There will be a bareboat or fully- Bring your own boat, charter For more information visit www.jollyharbourregatta.com. 600 ‘A Full Workout’: RORC Caribbean Caribbean 600, the The fifth edition of the RORC 600 fleet will be The majority of the RORC Caribbean Guadeloupe hours 11 minutes and 5 seconds in 2009, and Burnie will be back to defend that record in 2013. their fifth annual regatta, to be held February 21st through 24th, 2013. To celebrate the start of the SGR there will be a “dinghy concert” on February 20th, fol- lowed by the skippers’ briefing the following evening. —Continued on page 45 says, “It is a rare occasion when we can unleash the says, “It is a rare occasion when full power of likely that the Caribbean guarantee wind, it is highly seas and fantastic sail- 600 will deliver big breeze, big is not just a sleigh ride. ing conditions, but the 600 There are many tactical decisions to be made and the course has so many twists and turns that it is a full workout for the crew. If someone was to write a case study of the strategies for this race, it would run to many pages.” and 2 seconds was set by George David’s 100 one-designs. A pursuit race series will also be held for pursuit race series will also one-designs. A starts. A individual starts to fleet those who prefer will provide with the dinghy racing, poker run, along conditions opportunities. Sailing spectacular viewing Antigua are on the west coast of outside Jolly Harbour flat waters with great winds. ideal — generally evening fea- alike, with parties each and non-sailors the shop- the marina docks and turing the beach, for its facilities. Antigua is famous ping and dining finale is one not to beach parties and this event’s be missed! or secure a place on equipped racing charter boat, charter individual spots. one of the many boats that race (600 miles), Caribbean’s only offshore distance 18th, 2013. will start in Antigua on February Classes. Peter Harrison’s made up of five separate IRC magnificent 114-foot ketch, to take part.
JODY SALLONS-DAY The Foundation Partners of this expanded sailing fes- Partners of this expanded The Foundation to contract withA new company will be formed CSA-rated boats, bare- Classes will be available for anniversary by significantly increasing the scope of this significantly increasing the anniversary by the week event. The beginning of popular Antigua of the last Valentine’s Day is one that encompasses the for a major regatta in time slots available Association’s racing calendar. Caribbean Sailing Ltd., Developments (Antigua) tival include Caribbean Harbour Jolly Harbour Marina, Jolly Budget Marine, and Harbour Merchants’ Association Yacht Club, Jolly Homeowners’ Association. Jolly Harbour marketing and man- Mainstay Caribbean, an event Antigua, to deliver theagement company based in of professionally managedevent, including three days ten-foot draft.fun racing for boats with a maximum Dragons and other boats, Carriacou sloops, Lasers, Continued from previous page Continued from Jolly Harbour Valentine’s Regatta in Antigua Jolly Harbour Valentine’s Regatta 10th, 2013, the Jolly From February 7th through The board of five includes Chairman Marc DeCaul, five includes Chairman Marc The board of are from the marine industry Many more people Harbour Valentine’s Regatta will celebrate its 20th Harbour Valentine’s Regatta racer and sailmaker Richard Szyjan, sportsman and Richard Szyjan, sportsman racer and sailmaker Sailing Brathwaite, Grenada businessman Patrick Association the Marine and Yachting Association and sailor and Nicholas George, and of Grenada member owner Mike Bingley. marine business the “lean but keen” board and supporting this will once Week. Grenadian racers Grenada Sailing challenging yachtsmen again “Sail de Spice” in 2013, the world to match from the Caribbean and around their racing skills. — OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 describe it:thegarden’slayoutgivesimpressionof in allhersplendour”andit’saverygoodwayto let advertisingthegardenspromises“Naturemastered with littleinformationplaquesnexttothem.Theleaf- winds throughbeautifulgroupsofplantsandtrees, cally jumpoutofthewatertogetatfood.Apath feed thefish,whoscrambleovereachotherandpracti- lilies andhugekoicarp.Youcanbuybagsoffoodto the tropicaltreesandplants. village andspenttwoorthreehourswanderingamong band, Kevin,andIwalkedupthesteephillfrom this pleasantharbour,oneSundaymorningmyhus- garden. Afteranchoringourcat, the northwestofGuadeloupe,isanamazingbotanical all inoneplace?TheJardinBotaniqueDeshaies, tropical flowers,parrots,flamingosandhummingbirds Getting toKnowGuadeloupe The firstthingyoucometoisalargepondwithwater Where intheLeewardIslandscanyouseebeautiful A JardinofEarthlyDelights
DESTINATIONS Anse alaBarqueontheisland’swestcoastiscrowdedwithlocalboats,butifconditionsarerightit’sworthstop Sweet Sensation by ChristineGooch , in mingbirds hoveredatbrightlycolouredflowers. ing withtheirbeaksinasmallpond,andtinyhum- Bright pinkflamingosbalancedononelegwhileforag- the fenceranoutanditcouldnolongerfollowher. around itsenclosureandlookingverycrestfallenwhen parrot followed,sidlingalongthetopoffence who wastalkingtoit.Whentheladywalkedaway One oftheparrotstookalikingtoFrenchtourist yellow parrotsperchoutsidecutelittlewoodenhouses. on yourarmwhileyoufeedthem.Fartheron,blueand green andredlorikeetsflyaroundyourheadorperch back home. worth themoney,especiallyifyouareakeengardener once wehadbeenroundthegardensfeltitwas The entryfeeof14euroseachseemedexpensive,but On acleardaythereareviewsacrosstoMontserrat. grouped intoswathesofcolourandcontrastingshapes. walking throughatropicalforestbuttheplantsare You cangoinsideabigwireenclosurewherecheeky —Continuedonnextpage restaurant, althoughtherestauranthascloseddown. the fishingboatharbourandleaveitbyLaNoteBleu You canstilltakeyourdinghyupthelittlecanalbeside newly restoredjettyonthewaterfrontdangerouslytricky. uncomfortable, ifnotuntenable,andlandingatthe come upunexpectedly,makingtheanchoragevery other cruisingfriendstoldusaheavywesterlyswellcan so theyareouttherecheckingup. launch speedingupanddownthecoastseveraltimes, on yachtieswhodon’tbother.WesawtheCustoms clear in,astheauthoritiesarequicktolevyheavyfines Immigration. Wewerewarnedtomakesurewedid around acoupleofeurositissentofftoCustomsand enter theinformationontoacomputerandforfeeof dures inGuadeloupeareveryquickandeasy:you shop, manyofthemlocallymade.Clearanceproce- We didn’t have any problems in the anchorage, but We didn’thaveanyproblemsintheanchorage,but lovely souvenirsinhis and helpful,hassome The ownerisveryfriendly Antigua andDominica. break thetripbetween island, agoodplaceto Deshaies atthetopof Pelican inthevillageof out ofGuadeloupeatLe everyone’s liking. strong tasteisnotto France butitsdistinctive much prizedinmainland cole which ismadeinto tourism andsugarcane, The mainindustriesare “Island ofPrettyWaters”. Karukera whichmeans name forGuadeloupeis Caribbean. TheCarib ported intacttothe France hasbeentrans- though apartofmainland and italmostfeelsas ed, therearemorevillages the landismorecultivat- Dominica orStVincent; not sodramaticas volcanic island,although a taxifromthevillage. either walkedthere,ortook never materialised.Sowe come andfetchus,they and despitepromisingto and craftshopinDeshaies, Pelican, aninternetcafé help oftheownerLe dens, butevenwiththe fer advertisedbythegar- phoning forthefreetrans- staying withus,wetried had friendsfromtheUK You cancheckinand Deshaies Guadeloupe isagreen On othervisits,whenwe rum—apparently agri- OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 SAVE ON ON SAVE • AUCKLAND LIGHT MAINTENANCE LIGHT MAINTENANCE • BRISBANE PALMA DE MALLORCA PALMA IDEAL FOR YACHT OWNERS WITH OWNERS WITH IDEAL FOR YACHT • ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY—CUTS ON ON FRIENDLY—CUTS ENVIRONMENTALLY • GOLFITO ST. THOMAS ST. E-mail: [email protected] LESS WEAR AND TEAR ON YACHT LESS WEAR AND TEAR ON YACHT • • MAINTAIN RESALE VALUE RESALE VALUE MAINTAIN • NEWPORT NEWPORT RELIABLE SET SCHEDULES The Saintes The Saintes, a group of half a dozen small islands, Pain du Sucre anchorage is named after a large • lie six miles south of mainland Guadeloupe. Although lie six miles south of mainland Guadeloupe. Although they are only six miles away, we found the passage from Vieux Fort was often hard on the wind and against the swell, with passing rain squalls; the only time we managed to sail there, as opposed to motoring, was when a low swell meant we could motor up the south coast of Guadeloupe to get a good slant across and we managed to sail right up to Pain du Sucre anchorage. On the way across we could see Marie Galante clearly, a low pancake-shaped island about 12 miles east-northeast of The Saintes. We really wanted to go there, but being farther to windward it is even harder to get to; what you really need would be a northeast wind and swell on route from Antigua, changing to east as soon as you anchor otherwise the one anchorage would be untenable — but I think that is highly improbable outside of the hurricane season! dome-shaped rock with narrow vertical ridges that look like the marks made on a muffin by the paper case it is baked in, and topped by scrubby bushes resembling the sugar icing. The clear water was a lovely cobalt blue in the deeper patches, turquoise and ultramarine in the lighter ones. In one corner of the bay are the coral pink buildings of the Hotel Bois Joli and its sandy beach; in the other is another smaller sandy beach backed by palm trees. —Continued on next page boats with a jib and a square mainsail supported by a and a square mainsail supported boats with a jib of the mast diagonally from the bottom sprit running saw a huge corner of the sail. We also to the aft top to us that we on the surface so close turtle swimming shell. barnacles on the back of its could see the GENOA PORT EVERGLADES PORT GENOA : Tel. +596 596 741 507 : Tel. GIVE CREW A VACATION BREAK GIVE CREW A VACATION • WWW.YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM Adress: Port de Plaisance, Boulevard Allegre, 97290 Le Marin Allegre, Port de Plaisance, Boulevard Adress: UPCOMING CARIBBEAN SAILINGS MARTINIQUE MARTINIQUE MARTINIQUE MARTINIQUE PORT EVERGLADES PORT : : MARTINIQUE MARTINIQUE DYT Martinique : : Stop by the office and Nadine will be happy to provide you with an obligation-free quote! Stop by the office racing. They are open OCTOBER, 2012 NOVEMBER, 2012 DECEMBER, 2012 MARCH, 2013 CARBON EMISSIONS CHARTER COMMITMENTS CHARTER BENEFITS OF SHIPPING YOUR YACHT WITH DYT BENEFITS OF SHIPPING YOUR YACHT OFF ON, FLOAT SAFEST LOADING METHOD—FLOAT ENGINE HOURS, MAINTENANCE, AND FUEL COSTS POSSIBLE WHILE YACHT IS UNDERWAY IS UNDERWAY POSSIBLE WHILE YACHT Sweet Sensation
yoles Photo by Onne van der Wal der van Onne by Photo Above: Another ti punch, please, barman! We also spent a night anchored off Basse Terre, the Off Vieux Fort at the southwestern tip of Guadeloupe Left: Chris and Kevin aboard managed an afternoon spent snorkelling off the rocky managed an afternoon spent snorkelling off the rocky headlands at the entrance to the bay and an overnight stop. The bay is easy to spot as there is a distinctive navigation light on the northern headland and another clearly marked “Anse a la Barque” in large letters at the head of the bay. capital of Guadeloupe. We thought it might be some- where to stock up on supermarket shopping, rather than beating to windward to get to Le Marin on Martinique, but the anchorage was exposed and it was a very long walk along the seafront promenade to the town. We dinghied into the municipal marina but it was run down, had a rather alarming unlit wreck in the entrance channel, and there were scant facilities for visiting yachts. We only managed to find the har- bour master because he was guiding another visiting yacht into a berth. He suggested we could come along- side the same quay to take on water, but having seen the jagged surface of the wall and the fact that the other yacht ran aground trying to get into the berth they had been allocated, we decided against this. we passed a couple of local the west coast of Guadeloupe a few times and most of Guadeloupe a few times the west coast of miles as turned westerly for a couple times the wind bay crowded Anse a la Barque, a small we approached of yachts on boats and a couple with local fishing though and one occasion we were lucky moorings. On Yacht at Rest, Mind at Ease Yacht Continued from previous page Continued from In the Lee of Guadeloupe We found that sailing in the lee of Guadeloupe the You can hire a car from Deshaies and explore the Deshaies appears to have many French holiday to have many French Deshaies appears wind was generally light and fluky, with gusts racing wind was generally light and fluky, with gusts racing down from the higher ground. We sailed up and down part of the island called Grande Terre. closed or changed hands since it was written, includ- ing the bakery — which we never did find, although the small supermarkets had fresh bread daily. homes. The two parallel streets have lots of souvenir parallel streets have lots homes. The two charming old restaurants and several shops and small Kaz restau- Our favourite was La wooden buildings. spilling down of purple bougainvillea rant with a mass the eve- and over its front. We thought from the roof islands), was good value (for the French ning set menu the price for Saturday evenings when but watch out two or three is live music. There are goes up, as there fishing harbour in a corner supermarkets, and a small stone wall. The supermar- of the bay, protected by a stores but for a really big kets are fine for topping up and Fort de France in shop we found Le Marin value. Our cruising guide Martinique easier and better old, but a sign of the times was only a couple of years shops and restaurants had was that we found several — OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 rent inlocalhomes;myfavouritenamewasChezMme French holidayhomesandrooms/smallapartmentsto talising viewofMarieGalante.Wepassedlots headlands oneitherendofthelongbeachandatan- where surfrolledontothesand.Thereweresandstone low hilltoabeachonthewindwardsideofisland, Kevin andIdidsomeexploringonfoot,walkingovera the mainpedestrianstreet. ger thecaseandyouhavetogoaninternetcaféin check in/outattheMairie,butinfactthisisnolon- shopping inpeace.Ourcruisingguidesaidweshould small supermarketswherethelocalscometodotheir shops andrestaurantsareclosed,exceptforthe Before theyarriveandoncehaveleft,mostofthe the streetsbusybetween0900and1700hours. day-trippers fromtheGuadeloupemainland,making and restaurants.Severalferriesadaybringhordesof shaped likethebowofaship,lotssouvenirshops wooden shuttersandFrenchdoors,ahouseincliff there arered-roofedbuildingsintheFrenchstylewith you cancheckintooroutofGuadeloupe.Ashore picturesque littletownofBourgdesSaintes,where most oftheanchorages.Wepickedupabuoyoff Reserve andmooringbuoyshavebeenputdownin Saintes youcananchor;muchoftheareaisaMarine — NEW NAMEFORCARAIBEGREEMENT•MORESERVICES Tel: +596(0)596748033 [email protected] www.caraibe-marine.fr Service After Sale You canhirescooterstoexploreTerred’enBas,but Pain duSucreisoneofthefewplacesinThe Continued frompreviouspage and flowers. including onewithabeautifuldesignofhummingbirds pastel coloursandsomehadgingerbreadfretwork, Bonbon. Severalofthehouseswerepaintedincalming Martinique-LeMarinMarina another voyage Below: Montserratinthedistance—temptationfor at Deshaies Left: Flamingosgracethebotanicalgardens their 38-footProutcatamaran through theRiviereSaléeinmiddleofisland. Next yearwehopetoreturnandmakethepassage while sippingthelocal the sandcompleteddecoration,whichweadmired hammocks andbigsquashysofasunderanawningon cartoon muralofCaptainJackSparrow,assorted English oldsalt’sheart)wasnailedaboveit.Alarge and anoldSeagulloutboardengine(deartomany Club barwaspaintedbrightorange,yellowandblue man appearedfromthehousenextdoor.TheYacht the bellhangingbyfrontgate,whereuponbar- ingly closed,butKevinwalkedupthebeachandrang they dinghiedashore.TheYachtClublookedworry- meet KevinandColinattheYachtClub1700 to thewindwardbeachonroute.Wehadarranged pausing tobrowseinthesouvenirshopsandwalkover and IstrolledroundtotheYachtCluboneafternoon, nets inthenextbay. goats weregrazingandfishermensettingtheir on asmallheadlandoverlookingtheanchorage,where could landthedinghy.Weclimbedtoruinedfort small “YachtClub”overlookingabeachwherewe — thump,thump.”Furtheralongwefounda More touristsandtheyallwanttopatmeonthehead thinking, “AnotherdayinParadise—I’msobored. hunched andhehunghishead.Weimaginedwas ioned gramophone,exceptthathisshoulderswere the oldHMVrecordlabelssittingbesideanfash- a veryfed-uplookingdog.Hewasjustlikethedogon beach andonthestepsofonehouseswepassed sailing yolesandfishingboatsweredrawnuponthe Kevin andChrisGoocharesailingtheCaribbeanin All inallweenjoyedthetimespentGuadeloupe. Friends fromtheUKcameouttovisitus,andJanice Another daywestrolledalongthewaterfront.Local ti punch Sweet Sensation . . OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 —Continuedonnextpage ous. Thebelow-mentioneddirectionsfrom ourfriendleadtothedesiredspot.) right turnhere,weneverdaredtochance itasweconsiderTrinitrafficquitehazard- a friendwithextensivelocalknowledge, and althoughwesupposeyoucouldtakea erly directionuntilyouseeabigNPsign onyourright.(Wegotourdirectionsfrom articles, tools(fromsandpaperandbrushes togenerators),electricalstuff,etcetera. mous departmentstoreyoucanbuyliterally everythingandatlowprices:domestic money anddoityourself? gas bottlesfilledthroughPowerboatsorPeake’s,butwhileonyourwaywhynotsave a taxichargesatleastTT$250).Tel.(868)739-6449,www.crackajackrentals.com. top ofthatyoucanarrangetodropoffattheairportforTT$100more(interesting,when and hisserviceincludescardeliverytoyourboatpick-up—noworries,mate! On (TT$200 perday).StuartkeepshisboatatIMS.Heisaneasy-goingAustralianfellow gested “Crackajack”,StuartStevenson,whorentsexcellentcarsforthesameprice head officeintownrentedcarsonlyforaminimumoftwodays.Afriendourssug- one cansail,wecombinebusinesswithpleasure,rentacarandareonourway. see somethingelse.Andbecauseprovisioningisoneoftheessentialpreparationsbefore practically spickandspanagain,wearefedupwiththedustyboatyardready to don’t takemuchtimeofffromthehardwork.Butafteraweek,when in Suriname,whichisevenclosertotheequator)wealwaysstartenthusiastically and and, ofcourse,stockingup. repairs tooddjobssuchascleaningthedecksandinterior,winches,hullbottom, most importantly:tickingoffeachitemonseemingly-endlessto-dolists,frommajor Catching upwitholdfriends,makingnewenjoyingtheeventsashore.And have beenlaidupinoneoftheboatyards,andgettingthemreadytosailagain. start. AllthosesailorsflyingintoTrinidadfromallovertheworldtotheiryachtsthat Cathedral (below),youcanexperiencemanyfacetsofTrinidadinadaytrip From thefriendlyfunofMacqueripeBeach(above)toserenityBamboo TOURING INTRINIDAD Once pastPortofSpain,continueonthe Churchill-RooseveltHighwayinaneast- Drive pastPortofSpainandifnecessary stopatBaghwansingh’s.Atthisenor- Usually ourfirstgoalistobuycookinggas.Ofcourse,youcanhaveyourempty When werentedacarlastFebruary,EconocaratCrewsInnwasclosedwhiletheir Get ‘gasmileage’outofyourrentalcar AS As we are quite able to stand Trinidad’s tropical heat (we are Dutch but actually live As wearequiteabletostandTrinidad’stropicalheat(weDutchbutactuallylive
ing everybody’s excitement about the sailing season that is about to ing everybody’sexcitementaboutthesailingseasonthatisto returns tolife.Welovethehustleandbustleinyardswatch- the hurricaneseasoncomestoanend,yachtsceneinChaguaramas — FORFREE! by PetraandJanWillemVersol ALL ASHORE… Witte Raaf is is OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 • Covered drydock SERVICES REPAIR SHIPYARD • Covered • • Drydock facilities up to 65M & 1000 tonne blasting • 40 tonne travel lift • Sand & metal work Woodwork • • berglass painting, fi Welding, SERVICES MARINA Electrical, refrigeration & mechanical repairs • • 22 berths for yachts from 22M- 65M • Electricity & water Shower & toilet Fax: email: Phone: ottleyhall St. Vincent St. Vincent 784-456-1302 784-457-2178 784-456-2640 @gmail.com VHF Channel 16 VHF Channel 16 & the Grenadines . (Note: They PM to 3:30 AM , in Trinidad during the hurricane season. They have been Witte Raaf Continued from previous page Continued from Petra and Jan Willem Versol are a Dutch couple who live in Suriname and keep their The biggest profit of the day You already earned back more than half the costs of your rental car by saving At the end of the road to Macqueripe, there are some of the old US military base End the day in Macqueripe Close to Chaguaramas is another stupendous bay and beach: Macqueripe. Normally, Follow the road to Petit Valley and return to the Western Main Road to the big Time to stock up splendid bay views and Continue on the same road and admire the numerous While enjoying your lunch, soak up the laid-back atmosphere on the beach, and While enjoying your lunch, soak up the laid-back atmosphere Once out of the forest you have arrived in Blanchisseuse on the north coast.Once out of the forest you have arrived in Blanchisseuse As you drive into this north-Trinidadian jungle, a more stunning landscape opens As you drive into this north-Trinidadian jungle, a more Have a drink and a snack in one of the many villages you pass and in Arima, take one of the many villages you pass and in Arima, take Have a drink and a snack in Tour the countryside on the highway back to Port of Spain. But with Leaving NP you will find yourselves By the way, make sure you are “properly” dressed: according to the sign at the gate, dressed: according to the sign sure you are “properly” By the way, make Once you see the NP sign, you’re about to arrive at a big Y-junction. Choose the to arrive at a big Y-junction. the NP sign, you’re about Once you see cruising the Caribbean for six years and consider the southeastern Caribbean — from Trinidad up to Dominica — their new home waters. 40-foot ketch, money on the cooking gas, but now the time has come to make the best deal of the day. When we do this tour we bring as many empty diesel jerrycans as we can, and at the end of the day head for a service station along the side of the road. Last time we paid only TT$165 for 90 liters of diesel, which is actually a quarter of the inter- national price that yachts have to pay in the bay. So here’s the biggest profit of the day — and you have enjoyed your rental car free of charge! buildings from WWII. Go down the steps from the parking lot to a small rocky beach to wash off the sweat of the day with a dip in the seawater. Refreshing! Macqueripe Beach is a pleasant place to hang around for a bit. We went there twice and both times it was bustling with locals who were limin’ and swimmin’ (that is, merely float- ing and cooling down in the sea). after a ten-minute drive from the boatyards past TTSA, the army base, museum and conference centre, you take the Macqueripe Post Road on your left. However, in this case you are coming from the direction of Port of Spain. You will find the junction where the Western Main Road becomes a dual carriageway for a couple of hundred yards, and this is where you take the Macqueripe Post Road on your right. It leads through some pretty countryside, and if you want to enjoy some peace and quiet, you should definitely pull onto the right shoulder at the gate to Chaguaramas National Park, and go for a stroll into the famous Bamboo Cathedral. Bring your camera. Hi-Lo supermarket at West Mall, as it is now shopping time. Be sure to have brought a cooler, as we haven’t finished our list with recommendations for sightseeing yet! lovely, quiet beaches. Since you won’t have time to visit them all, you will have to make a choice. Las Cuevas is a good one as it is quite pretty. who knows, locals may invite you for a game of cricket or basketball on the sand. who knows, locals may invite you for a game of cricket Continue to Maracas Bay, where you find the biggest, busiest and most splendid beachContinue to Maracas Bay, where you find the biggest, busiest specialty, the beach is dottedon Trinidad’s north coast. As bake ’n shark is Maracas’ lunch. We find Richard’swith booths where you can have your late but unforgettable directly located on the beach. has the best dishes, but offers a lesser view as it is not up after every curve and you may be tempted to pay a quick visit to the Asa Wright up after every curve and you may be tempted to pay deteriorates a bit, but noth- Nature Centre on the way. Just past Asa Wright the road ing to scare you; the road to the NP gas plant is worse. scenery, but note that this road is leading into a forest. This means that there are scenery, but note that this road is leading into a forest. petrol (and something in your few spots for pit stops so be sure you have enough Maracas well past noon). stomach, as lunch will have to wait until you arrive in a left turn onto the long and winding Arima-Blanchisseuse Road. Enjoy the lush winding Arima-Blanchisseuse Road. Enjoy the lush a left turn onto the long and the gas job done, wouldn’t it be a great idea to see something of the countryside while be a great idea to see something of the countryside while the gas job done, wouldn’t it the right lane as soon as you can, and do a U-turn at you’re at it? Move over to the this is not allowed but it actually is). Then con- traffic lights (you would presume of Arima via the Eastern Main Road. tinue east in the direction can’t handle exotic valves; for those you will have to go to San Fernando.) can’t handle exotic valves; bermudas, sleeveless shirts (men) and sandals are not allowed, However, in Trinidad are not allowed, However, shirts (men) and sandals bermudas, sleeveless things done as long as your attitude is one of extreme you get the most unlikely the were fully “European” dressed in shorts and tops, politeness, so although we gas We handed over our two empty ten-pound guards allowed us on the premises. 20 as they sell at Budget Marine with type 1 valves) and bottles (standard US, such pay at TT$32.50, which is 20 percent of the price you minutes later both were filled hours: Monday to Friday 8:00 in Chaguaramas. Opening left lane and take the roundabout for three quarters. Then exit onto the fly-over, quarters. Then exit onto take the roundabout for three left lane and Choose the Churchill-Roosevelt Highway. to the other side of the which takes you dirt road on to miss the small potholed slowly as you don’t want left lane and drive heads into some saying WASA. This road NP, marked with a sign your left just before leading to a garbage dump, but is actually terrain looking like kind of undeveloped gate. Continue to the NatPet the NP gas company. — A stop at laid-back Maracas Beach will help dissipate any lingering boatyard blues A stop at laid-back Maracas Beach will help dissipate OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 • Refrigeration • MachineShop • Woodwork • Electrical andRepairs • DieselEngineInstallation • Pipe Works andPaint Work • Sandblasting • Steel Work (Crop&Renew) SERVICES AVAILABLE & DRY DOCK SHIP REPAIR Drydock Draft 18ftDepthDrydock Slipway GuideJetty, St. Vincent Street Drydock Length300ft.Drydock the first timesoyour the first ship [email protected] to get the job done right to getthejobdoneright www.maritimepreservation.net Drydock Beam55ft.Drydock as quickly aspossible! Phone: (868)6252927/2962 Wetdock Pier250ft. Slipway 1800 Tons can getback towork Our commitment is Our commitmentis Trinidad & Trinidad Tobago, WI Fax: (868)6273056 Port ofSpain, www.traveldudes.org/travel-tips/guidelines-viewing-sea-turtles/9470. photos anduseflashlightsduringtheperiod theturtleisactuallyinheregg-laying“trance”.Seemoregoodtipsat tion grouporguide:theywillbestknow how tospottheturtlesandpreventstressthemoncefound.Onlytake and allowedtheturtletocompleteprocessesmakeherwayslowlyback tothesea. We weremakingtoomuchnoiseforherlikingandwecouldseeshewasunhappy withus,soweallcalmeddown were nolongerabletotakepicturesandwatchedtheturtlefillholethen starttodisruptthesandaround. raphy ofwhatwas—forme,nodoubtaonceinlifetimeopportunity.Once thelayingprocessfinished,we turtle tobesatisfied,shestartedlaying,givingusthefantasticopportunityofallowing lightstoshineandphotog- were notneededtohelpseeherprogressindiggingthehole.Afterpatientlywaiting foroverhalfanhourthe to findanotherwhowasjustbeginningdigherownhole.Thefullmoonmadefor excellentviewingandredlights was ofaveragesize.Welefther,onlyhavingtowalkafurthercouplehundred metresdownthefive-milebeach the processoflayinghereggs.Iwasshockedatsizeshehadgrowntoandevenmoresurprisedwhentold est turtlesintheworldoftenweighing1,500pounds.Theverylargestweighasmuch2,000 on averagegrowstosixfeetinlengthandcanswimatspeedsaveragingmilesanhour.Leatherbacksarethelarg- ibility andshapethatissimilartothehullofamotorboat,givingbetterhydrodynamics.Amatureleatherbackturtle turtle, andtheycanstayunderwaterforanincredible85minutes.Theabilitytodothiscomesfromtheirshell’sflex- fused withtheirstapledietofjellyfish. enemy, humans,throughfishingnetsandlines,gettinghitbyboatseatingwasteplasticbagshavingbeencon- of theeggslaidbyfemalewillreachmaturity.Predatorscomeinformbirds,reptiles,fishandtheirmain hard forpredatorstodetect.Notmanyleatherbackturtlesevermakeitadulthoodandisestimatedthatonlyone nest andcompactingtheholeforprotection,finallydisturbingalargeareaofsandaroundnest,makingit two andahalfhourstocomplete.Theprocedureconsistsofdiggingthree-foothole,laying80120eggs,fillingthe lay theireggs,whichisanocturnalprocessthattakesupto turtles maketheirwayontothebeachfivetoseventimes late theirbodytemperaturethroughmetabolicprocesses.The in suchcontrastingwatersisthroughtheircapacitytoregu- swimming fromasfarnorthCanada.Theirabilitytoswim years andreturntothesamebeachtheyhatchedfromafter knowledge ofthelocalareamadelongdriveinterestingandenjoyable.Havingsampledsomecuisine Matura ontheeasternpartofTrinidadformagicalexperienceseeingleatherbackturtleslayingtheireggs. in May,IjumpedattheopportunitytojoinJesseJamesofMembersOnlyMaxiTaxiServiceandtakeatrip Thailand. Beingfeetawayfromsuchamagnificentcreaturehadmadevividimpression,sowhilevisitingTrinidad TURTLE TRIPINTRINIDAD turtle anduselightswhensheisinheregg-layingtrance Above: Theauthorposingwithturtle.Onlytouchasea My firstsightingofaturtlewasliterally30secondsafterwalkingontothebeach.Alargefemalealreadyin Leatherback turtlesdivetoescapepredatorsandhavebeenrecordedup4,200feetdeep,deeperthananyother Female leatherbackturtlestypicallylayeggseverythree The momentIwaspickedupinChaguaramasbyJessethatevening,knewgoodhands.Hisimpressive The firsttimeIeverencounteredawildseaturtlewasin2010whiledivingnearKhoPhiDon,Phuket, Right: Layingeggs.She’llcoverthemwithsand and thendisguisethespot ALL ASHORE… by BenFarnham could weighclosetoaton Hard toimaginethatonedaythisturtle remember formanyyearstocome. This wasaremarkableexperienceandnightthatIwill to getbackonthebusforrideChaguaramas. able toswimforthreedayswithoutstoppingfeed. same nestingsiteinyearstocome.Theyoungarethen sea ontheirownhelpsthemmemoriseandreturntothe in theirendeavour,asabilitytomakewaythe way intothesea.Itisimportantthattheyarenotassisted climb thethreefeetuptosurfaceandthenmaketheir had beenrecoveredearlierthatday.Theyounghaveto back alongthebeachtobegreetedbyfourhatchlingsthat Go turtlewatchingwitharecommended localconserva- Once wehadourfillof“baby”pictures,itwastime After watchingthelong,beautifulprocesswewalked was excellent: passed onthroughoutthetour on toMatura. that hadbeendemolisheditwas where wehadaheartymeal.Once food atarestaurantinValencia little laterintheformofChinese teeth into.Themainmealcamea the texturealittleeasiertogetmy and theflavourwasplentiful ever, weremuchmoretomyliking and thebarbecuedpigtails,how- everyday diet.Chickengizzards whether Iwillbeaddingittomy customed toandIamunsure ture wassomethingIunac- lovely flavour,however,thetex- pig tail.Thechickenfeethada zards andthefamousbarbecued chicken feetsoup,giz- en-route fordelightssuchas that littlebitfurtherandstopped keen toexpandmyexperience throughout mystay,Jessewas The informationthatwas OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 little ofGuatemala’shistory.LearnsomeSpanishaswell. into theunknown. thing ofanadventurerandgetyourselfgoing.Enter that actuallyhaveflavor.Youjustneedtobesome- fed beefandchicken,organicfruitvegetables will alsoappreciatetheprices,food,andpeople. Dulce, toGuatemala. you cannotgowrongifdecidetocomeRio powerful yethumbleculturesandtheirwisdom:well, pen tobeopenlearningaboutoneofthemost beyond thenormalcruisingenvironment,ifyouhap- recent cycle. year cycles.Wearenowattheendofmost been presentonthisplanetforatleastfive52,000- 2012 alreadyknowthatTheMayabelievetheyhave spiritual guideshavetosayregardingthisyearof repeat whatDonCirilioandotherGuatemalan Happening Now Maya, knownasLaRutaTheMayanRoute. quickly navigatetothefamedYucatanofMexico. Belize’s Reefandislandsthroughwhichonecan equidistant betweenHonduras’BayIslandsand Dulce anditsentranceportofLivingstonliealmost the Caribbean.
Rodney Bay,St.Lucia S If you do decide to come, please take the time to read a If youdodecidetocome,pleasetakethetimereada Slip feesareincrediblylow.Itiseasytofindrange Besides, itissweetwaterandyourboatwillloveit.You If youareinterestedinanexperiencethatgoes Those ofyouwhohaveheardDrunvaloMelchizedek The MayaofEternalTimeandWhat’s Rio Dulceissiteddirectlyontheancientpathof Very welllocatedandsafefromhurricanes,Rio
DESTINATIONS aand Guatemala’s ment, remaining a little-known cruising area in ment, remainingalittle-knowncruisingareain beneficial reasons,muchcommercialdevelop- escaped, formysteriousandpossiblyquite pectacularly beautiful,theSweetRiverhas oof EternalTime n f Tortugal marinaisoneofmanysmall,yacht-friendlyfacilitiesontheriver d
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