C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS OCTOBER 2012 NNO.O. 220505 The CCaribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore GGuatemala’suatemala’s RRioio DDulceulce See story on page 24 STEVE JOST / WWW.STEVEJOSTPHOTOGRAPHY.COM OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 The Caribbean’s www.budgetmarine.com Leading Chandlery ARUBA arsenal. must havesforyourfishing prism finish,theseluresare magnified flashfromthe3D Wave MotionVibration,and feed. WithUVattackpoints, bait fish,whichexcitesfishto changing behavioroffleeing Lures imitatethenaturalcolor Yo-Zuri’s new3DSashimi CURAÇAO FISHING! BONAIRE BONAIRE ST. THOMAS ST. THOMAS ST. CROIX ST. CROIX TORTOLA NANNY CAY GRENADA GRENADA ST. MARTIN ST. MAARTEN/ TRINIDAD ST. MARTIN ST. MAARTEN/ TRINIDAD ANTIGUA ANTIGUA ANTIGUA •ARUBA •BONAIRECURAÇAOGRENADA •ST. CROIX•ST. MAARTEN•ST. MARTIN•ST. THOMAS•TORTOLATRINIDAD worldwide. fish-catching abilitiesinoceans sizes, haveproventheir in anassortmentofcolorsand jigs, available Butterfly® Shimano and the Trevala® jigrods extremely powerful with thindiameter, metered braid,matched Power Pro®DepthHunter® Butterfly jiggingsystem. evolved withShimano’s water verticaljiggingall A renewedinterestindeep Go deep–andholdon. Caribbean DutyFreeListPrices.Checkyourlocalstoreforfinalpricing. dedication toC&Hquality. American engineeringand but imitatorscan’tmatchtheir lure companies.Oftencopied, C&H isoneofthelastAmerican for overthirtyyears. tournament winningfishinglures C&H Lureshasbeenproducing Tarpon Tournament,Trinidad BVI BillfishTournament August 2013 Trinidad TarponThunderTournament Junior AnglerTournament,Trinidad Commercial FishingTournament Tobago HouseofAssembly GHFC JunglerulesSportFish-VI Kingfish Tournament,Trinidad June/July 2013 St MartinBillfishTournament TTGFA KingFishTournament-Trinidad Antigua &BarbudaFishingTournament May 2013 Jamboree &WahooFishingTournament Tortola SpanishTownFisherman April 2013 Marlin ReleaseTournament Curacao AnnualInternationalBlue Fishing Tournament) TIGFT(Tobago InternationalGame GHFC DolphinTournament-VI Fishing Tournament-Trinidad TTGFA MarlinMadness-Trinidad March 2013 GHFC MarlinTournament-VI Tournament Bonaire InternationalFishing Billfish Tournament,Grenada Budget MarineSpiceIsland January 2013 TTGFA Wahoo-Trinidad&Tobago GHSF WahooTournament-VI VIGFC WahooWindup-VI Trinidad TarponTournament Wahoo Tournament Budget MarineSt.MaartenAnnual Funfish Tournament,Trinidad November 2012 Caribbean Cup The 2012ChivasRegalAruba October 2012 TOURNAMENTS CARIBBEAN FISHING OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 Tel: (784) 457-3409

Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell .” Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Ad Sales & Distribution - Maurice Moffat Distribution - Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Compass Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Martinique: 74 77 01 Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71 Mob: + 596 696 [email protected] Panama: Red Frog Marina - www.redfrogbeach.com Shelter Bay Marina - www.shelterbaymarina.com Puerto Rico: (787) 219 4918, [email protected] Distribution - Sunbay Marina, Fajardo (787) 863 5282 Olga Diaz de Peréz, Tel: (787) 863 0313 Fax: [email protected] St. Lucia: Tel: (758) 452 0147 Cell: (758) 720-8432 [email protected] St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: Ad Sales & Distribution - Stéphane Legendre Ad Sales - Patty Tomasik Sales & Distribution and reading it. We could see spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed (787) 219 4918, [email protected] Distribution - Bryan Lezama Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Ad Sales - Shellese Craigg Mob: + 590 690 760 100 [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: [email protected] Distribution - Doc Leslie Tel: (784) 529-0970 Tortola/BVI: (787) 219-4918, [email protected] Distribution - Gladys Jones Tel: (284) 494-2830 Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad; David Bovell, Tel: (868) 497-1040 [email protected] Venezuela: Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448 [email protected] Cooking with Cruisers ...... 34 Cruisers Cooking with ...... 36 Meridian Passage ...... 38 Readers’ Forum ...... 40 My Mind What’s On ...... 41 Calendar of Events .....42 Caribbean Market Place ...... Classified Ads 46 ...... 46 Advertisers’ Index ISSN 1605 - 1998 near you! DEPARTMENTS S/V Moonrise But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole Caribbean Compass ...... 30 “As soon as we arrived in the islands we began hearing “As soon as we arrived in the islands we began hearing — Jack and Bobbie Greer about right away that there was a sense not only of readership right away that there was a sense not only of readership but of community built around the covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, Distribution - Hubert J. Winston welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. is published monthly by Compass See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts length and clarity.no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for this publication, except short©2012 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of Ltd. excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ad Sales & Distribution - Marina Santa Marta Distribution - Doyle Sails can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore. can use. We’re Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that Distribution - Budget Marine Curaçao Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch Caribbean Compass Info & Updates ...... 4 Info & Updates ...... 7 Business Briefs Regatta News...... 12 ...... 28 Voyaging Caribbean Sailor’s Horoscope ...... 31 Kids’ Corner ...... 32 Book Reviews ...... 33 The Caribbean Sky www.igy-marinasantamarta.com/en Curaçao: [email protected] Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 Dominica: Caribbean Compass BQ, Bequia,Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410 [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com Erdle Editor...... Sally [email protected] Ollivierre Assistant Editor...... Elaine [email protected] Hopman Advertising & Distribution...... Tom [email protected] Dederer Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred [email protected] Craigg Accounting...... Shellese [email protected] Compass Agents by Island: Antigua: Tel (268) 720-6868 [email protected] Barbados: Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 Colombia: Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected] Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Karen Maaroufi Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222 [email protected] Caribbean Compass

HAMILTON nd the nd Roll ’Em! ...... Roti lessons in Bequia 36 Buoy? Phooey! ...... Musings on moorings 27 Click Google Map link below to fi ..... 22 www.caribbeancompass.com OCTOBER 2012 • NUMBER 205 OCTOBER 2012 • NUMBER The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore The Caribbean’s http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078& Egg-laying leatherbacks ...... 22Egg-laying leatherbacks Sea Turtle Trip A no-cost tour of Trinidad Exploring Guadeloupe ...... Exploring Guadeloupe 16 Really Free Time ‘Island of Pretty Waters’ GOOCH FARNHAM Cover photo: Photographer Steve Jost shares a taste of the sweetness of the river Cover photo: Photographer Steve Jost shares a taste of OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 to bethatyouareinthewrongplace.Younot Barcadera harborlooksdesolateandindustrial,yourfirstimpressionisgoing by Customs.FirstdotheclearanceatImmigration(Seasideoffice),then on theisland.ThevesselandcrewwillhavetobeclearedbothbyImmigration official portofentryatBarcaderaHarbortoclearinbeforeproceedingelsewhere &Updates Info

Sander Vellingareports:WhenarrivinginAruba,allyachtsarerequiredtogothe Aruba: ChangesinCustomsProcedures WWW.ARUBA-CRUISINGGUIDE.COM of retirees( Immigration Servicehasstatedthatforeignerswhoapplywithinthestatus cer willcollectthisincashatthevesselwhileyouaretiedup. 0800, and$20perhouronweekendsholidays.Auniformedharborsecurityoffi- up totheirdocks:US$10perhourfrom08001600hours,$15 (297) 593-8305,[email protected]. your seconddayontheisland. upon arrival. at least15daysbeforeanewtemporarypermitcanbeappliedfor. the valueofdutiesforyacht. mit willneedtobeobtainedwithpaymentofadeposit(orbankguarantee)for obtained. Nodepositwillberequired. your seconddayontheisland.CostwillbeaboutUS$65toUS$100. The Customsbrokerwillhavetostarttheprocessofdeclarationnolaterthan done (nolaterthan)thenextday.ForthisyouwillneedtouseaCustomsbroker. declare thevesselyouareon.Thiswillnotneedtobedoneuponarrivalbutcan the CustomsofficeofAruba:outsideregularclearance,youwillalsohaveto has tospecifyAruba. Entry_Req-Eng.pdf. Other nationalitiescandownloadentryrequirementsatwww.aruba.com/sigma/ Should yourplanschangeyouwillnothavetoapplyforanextension. —Continuedonnextpage your destination. Australia, theUS,UKorCanadaalimitedlistofothercountries,Panamacouldbe love tospendtherestofyourlifesailinginidyllicwatersandareacitizen dent statushasattractedlong-termcruiserstoPanama.SailWorldsays,“Ifyouwould is requiredtohaveapensionofnotlessthanUS$1,000permonth. other countries,theywerenotgivenacedula.Theapplicantforretireeresidentstatus card or According to an August 18th report at www.panama-guide.com, Panama’s National According toanAugust18threportatwww.panama-guide.com,Panama’sNational Panama NowMoreAttractivetoRetireeCruisers For moreinformationvisitwww.Aruba-cruisingguide.com. As ofJanuary1st,2011,ArubaPortsAuthoritieschargesaportfeeforyachtstied HARBOR FEE Two availablebrokersareLandseair(Harold),(297)582-9284andAshleyBroker, Your Customsbrokerwillhavetostarttheprocessofdeclarationnolaterthan broughtintoArubawiththeintentionofsalewillhavetopayduties At theexpirationoftemporarypermityachtwillhavetoleaveislandfor If theyachtwillstaylongerthanayear,havetobeimported. If theyachtstayslongerthan180daysanduptoayear,temporaryimportper- If theyachtstays180daysorless,atemporaryimportpermitwillneedtobe EXCERPT OFTHERULES: As ofOctober1st,anewprocedureforforeign-registeredyachtswillbeappliedby CUSTOMS For personsrequiringavisa:EventhoughArubaispartoftheNetherlands,visa Visa requirements:NoneforcitizensoftheUSA,CanadaorEuropeanUnion. When clearingin,askImmigrationforalongerperiodthanyouintendtostay. IMMIGRATION As reportedinSailWorld.comonAugust20th,theprospectofobtainingretireeresi- cedula pensionados . In the past, although permanent residency was given to retirees from . Inthepast,althoughpermanentresidencywasgiventoretireesfrom ) will now be eligible for the permanent resident identification ) willnowbeeligibleforthepermanentresidentidentification OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5

JEAN VALLETTE , Fajardo —Continued on next page at • Complementary Cable TV and Wi-Fi • Water and Electricity • Restrooms and Showers • Laundry Facilities • Nearby 's Chandlery and Convenience Store • Near Small Eateries and Upscale Elegant Restaurants such as El Conquistador Hotel and Casino • US Custom and Immigration Located 1/2 mile Away by • Ample Parking www.sunbaymarina.com AMENITIES Join us today and be part of our family. our webpage VISIT US! 787.863.0313 787.863.5282 [email protected] ¡ open 7 days a week from 8:00 am to 4:00 pm or at the Administration Office at the Marina, T: F: E: Parcelas Beltrán, Bo. Sardinera, Fajardo, Puerto Rico • Professional and Courteous Staff • 282 Fixed Slips • Wide Concrete Finger Piers • On-Site Fuel Dock and Diesel Delivered on all Slips except on Dock “A” • Safety, Cleanliness and Service is our Primary Concern • Whole Area Patrolled by 24 Hour Security • Camera Surveillance • Official Cruising Station of SSCA THE DIFFERENCE IS THE DIFFERENCE IS ...... The new board members are Bulent Gulay, President; Thierry Girard, Vice-President; Bulent Gulay, President; Thierry Girard, Vice-President; The new board members are For more information visit www.metimer.fr. Four Jailed for Tobago Cays Burglary were given jail terms follow- Four residents of the tiny Grenadine island of Mayreau of family and friends from The had been chartered in Grenada by a group ordered Forde and In addition to the jail terms, Senior Magistrate Sonia Young Chris Doyle says, “I always found Willie to be engaging and entertaining. He had a be engaging and entertaining. “I always found Willie to Chris Doyle says, Trades Group’s New Board St. Martin Marine a new in St. Martin, elected for maritime professionals Métimer, the association Brigitte Delaitre, Secretary; Régine Hee, Treasurer; Alain LePrince, President of the Régine Hee, Treasurer; Alain LePrince, President of the Brigitte Delaitre, Secretary; RoozendaaL, President of the Metices Committee; Metidive Committee; Fanoula St. Maarten; and Anke Roosens, member responsible for relations with Dutch Dutch St. Maarten; and Bastiaan De Rooij, member responsible for relations with Isabelle Bonnefoy, Committees Secretary. on August 17th. ing the burglary of a yacht anchored in the Tobago Cays was sentenced to nine According to local newspaper reports, Jordan Forde (18) of cash from the yacht, months and Jason Alexander (25) six months for the theft to three and four and Tanisha Forde (18) and Jenelia Forde (28) were sentenced months respectively for receiving stolen property. for a barbecue. They sub- New York, who had secured the yacht and gone ashore sequently reported the theft to the Union Island police. remorse. Although Forde, Alexander to write a letter to the visitors expressing their allowed to pay a fine instead who reportedly had two prior convictions, asked to be before her court and of serving time, the magistrate stated that anyone brought found guilty of breaking into yachts would be sent to prison. on his , blades flapping like three ears: ‘It’s my Kadooment costume, officer!’” ‘It’s my Kadooment costume, flapping like three ears: on his head, blades well built, humor. He was stout and and was always full of good twinkle in his eye was his to have on your side. His word and tough — a good guy looked strong added color to wonderful character who necessary. He was a bond, no contracts scene, and he will be missed.” the waterfront 10th. The group Meeting on September at its 12th Annual General board of directors of the yachting industry, nautical tourism, recreational works for the development trades, in cooperation with other bodies in the pub- marine services and associated lic and private sectors. what we do and the way we do it. we do it. what we do and the waywhat we do and the way Left to right: Anke Roosens, Régine Hée, Thierry Girard, Bastiaan de Rooij, Isabelle Régine Hée, Thierry Girard, Bastiaan de Rooij, Isabelle Left to right: Anke Roosens, Leprince, Fanoula Roozendaal and Brigitte Delaître Bonnefoy, Bulent Gulay, Alain

NICOLA CORNWELL Close to: directed by the SVG Maritime Administration, the ship- directed by the SVG Maritime went aground between Middle Cay and West Cay, Bequia. As the St. went aground between Middle is a tradition, in family boatingis a tradition, in family boating is a tradition, in family boatingis a tradition, in family boating Continued from previous page Continued from Eight Bells often cruised the Willie Hassell was a well-known Barbados yachtsman who as a man who was friend- Friends say Willie lived life to its utmost and describe him The owner reportedly plans to have ship removed as soon as possible in a manner The owner reportedly plans to have ship removed as soon the Bequia “mainland”, Smaller vessels can use a pass between Middle Cay and Vessel Aground at West Cay, Bequia Vessel Aground while southbound, a cargo vessel from Dominica calledOn the night of August 23rd “Many cruising sailors have reached the San Blas, decided they are already in San Blas, decided they are sailors have reached the “Many cruising they’re making from all points and now always welcomed foreigners “Panama has Vincent & the Grenadines coast guard vessel responding to the mayday call apparentlyVincent & the Grenadines coast the grounded vessel’s crew were taken off by locals andcould not get close enough, yachtsmen in small boats. As much commercial diving work Grenadines. He died on August 27th, in his 70s. He did and his son, Michael, ran in the islands, and in Barbados before his retirement, he end of the inner Bridgetown Willie’s Diving and Marine Services, located in the south continues the business. Harbour (also known as the Shallow Draft Harbour). Michael accounts, was addicted to ly, generous and honest, who loved to sail and, by many of St. Lucia recalls, “He got a crab-backs. He also had a sense of humor. Ian Cowan on his way back to Barbados large Brunton propellor via my shop, and when he was at the airport. He took the by plane I asked how he was going to deal with Customs packing, and placed it prop out of its box, sat the thing on top of its conical styrene owner had the fuel pumped from the vessel on August 31st. It was later reported owner had the fuel pumped on September 7th, for less that a slick of diesel was sighted in the vicinity of the ship assessment, a small than three hours. According to the Maritime Administration’s at low tide. A September amount of fuel had been trapped in the hull and escaped of a fuel leak. 8th examination of the ship showed no further evidence aimed at preventing damage to the environment. Middle Cay and West Cay! but it’s probably best to swim across the shoal between Love Divine heaven, and stayed as long as they could. Now that decision has just become easi- Now that decision has just stayed as long as they could. heaven, and act of the Panamanian government. er by a recent visa has just Resident’ visa. The with its new ‘Immediate Permanent it even easier Panama of 22 countries that into law and applies to residents recently passed the country.” and economic ties with maintained friendly diplomatic deems to have — OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 Marina, helditsinauguralYouthSailTrainingProgrammefromAugust13ththrough com or(868)761-3534. needed asailingschooltoprovideopportunitiesforeveryoneontheisland. Andrew Llanos,SamuelQuaminaandMalcolmJohnson,decidedthatTobago Sarazin, aformerOlympicteamsailorwho,togetherwithSeanClarke,DavidMilne, Rodriguez, AkilaJackandMichaelRodriguez. by NathanielClarke;andthreeawardsforMostImprovedSailorwonVenice Outstanding GirlSailor,wonbyRheaMangaroo;MostBoy Optimist dinghysailingproficiencycertificatesandthereweretrophiesforMost assessed bytheteamofTobagoSailingSchoolinstructors.Allstudentsearned into practice,outatsea,ontheirownindinghies,andwerecontinually Associationorganizedthesailingcamp—afirstinTobago. Youth AffairsandSport,TobagoHouseofAssemblytheTrinidad& port oftheSportsCompanyTrinidad&TobagoandDivisionEducation, for All”ontheisland.Itfollowsasuccessfultwo-weekSummerSailingCampheldat — A newcomertothedaycharterindustryinStLucia, New YouthSailingProgrammeinSt.Lucia For moreinformationcontactMalcolmJohnsonattobagosailingschool@gmail. The TobagoSailingSchool,anon-profitorganization,wasthebrainchildofFrank At theendofcampalltraineesailorswereabletoputtheirsailingskills The newlyformedTobagoSailingSchoolisnowofferingaprogrammeof“Sailing Tobago SailingSchoolFormed Continued frompreviouspage the safetyaspectsofsailing. manual, whichincludedspecialfocuson ing. Parentswereissuedwithareference put themintopracticeand,finally,rac- afloat, howtobuildtheirsailingskillsand taught therulesofsafety,howtoget mandatory swimtest,thechildrenwere Tobago SailingAssociation.Followinga to asyllabusaccreditedtheTrinidad& dren, agedsevento17,wereintroduced to August3rd.Duringthecourse,45chil- Pigeon PointHeritageParkfromJuly23rd The TobagoSailingSchoolwiththesup-

Jus’ Sail,basedinRodneyBay of theCaribbeanthroughresearchandeducation.Visittheirsiteat at Yachting AssociationofGrenada,isavailable at tractors whosharedtheirexperienceandtimewiththestudentsoverweek. Bay MarinaandBoatYard,forhissupportoftheprogrammeallstaffcon- students, Jus’SailwouldliketothankAdamFoster,GeneralManagerofIGYRodney terms offinancialassistanceandstafftimeIGYRodneyBayMarina.Onbehalfthe the programmegrowingismadeallmorepossiblebygeneroussponsorshipin gramme willbecomeanannualeventwithincreasedparticipation.Thelikelihoodof tificates ofsatisfactoryparticipation. Secondary School.Allthreestudentscompletedtheprogrammeandreceivedcer- — wereacceptedintotheprogrammethroughapartnershipwithCorinth of variouspossiblecareerswithinthemarinesector. aboard anauthenticCarriacousloop, tage ofWestIndiansailingthroughanintroductiontothebasicsseamanship 19th. Thepurposeoftheprogrammewastoreconnectparticipantswithheri- Flora: Flora oftheorphanageatIle-à-Vache,HaitiincludesavideointerviewSister www.flickr.com/photos/nationalarchives/sets/72157630651715976/show 40 feetLOA.Additionalanchorageareaswillbedesignatedforlargervessels. most yachtstousetheirownanchors.Thesystemwillbedesignedforofup bered buoyswillreplacetheremainingfew12-incholdandendneedfor cent totheErrolFlynnMarinafor2012-13operatingseason.Thenew18-inchnum- tated foreaseofuse. Dominican Republic.Thereare20percentmorechartsinthenewedition,allanno- includes expandedcoverageforremoteareassuchasthesouthwestpartof at Dominican Republic Index (CSI)asafreePDF.Andnowthefiftheditionof FreeCruisingGuides.com isthelatestfour-monthupdateofitsCaribbeanSecurity Place section.Goodtohaveyouwithus! Crackajack carrentalsofTrinidad,andRichardDeyauthor,bothintheMarket of Martinique,onpage19;CraigCatamaranstheUSA,25;and • TheJostvanDykePreservationSocietyisworkingtomaintainonebeautifulcorner • GrenadaGrenadinesYachting,themagazineproducedbyMarineand • TheBahamasSailingAssociation’snewwebsiteisnowlive.Checkitout Cruisers’ Site-ings For moreinformationonJus’Sailanditsyouthprogrammevisitwww.jussail.com. Jus’ Sail’shusband-and-wifeteam,JamesandPepsiCrockett,hopethatthepro- Three students—LanceJean(16),PrinceStanislas(15)andJnPierrePrudent(14) • There’salothappeningatFreeCruisingGuides.com.Thenewsub-siteforSister • See“BarbadosofthePast”,imagesfromBarbadosMuseumcollection,at In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! For [email protected]. A 25-buoymooringfieldisplannedforPortAntonio,Jamaica’sWestHarbouradja- Mooring FieldPlannedforPortAntonio,Jamaica http://flipflashpages.uniflip.com/3/67439/132262/pub www.BAHsailing.org. www.freecruisingguides.com http://freecruisingguides.com/sister-flora-orphanage-2 Compass by FrankVirgintinoisdownloadableasafreePDF wewelcomenewadvertisersAssurancesMaritimeAntilles . The5theditionhas38additionalpagesand Good Expectation A CruisingGuidetothe . , whilegivinganoverview . Alsoat www.jvdps.org . . OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 magazine’s Green Initiative award magazine’s Green Initiative award Practical Boat Owner

For more information on IGY marinas visit www.igymarinas.com. For more information on Rodney Bay Marina see ad on page 8. Free Storage with Brokerage at Marina ZarPar Frank Virgintino reports: Marina ZarPar in the Dominican Republic has installed a The boat can stay free at Marina ZarPar until it sells, and then is billed for only the We expect to see the trend of increasing volume and increasing value of vessel to We expect to see the trend of increasing volume and come to visit as well as to The BVI attracts sailors from all around the world, who British Virgin Islands and the We have found a very strong connection between our For more information see ad on page 40. Three IGY Marinas Receive Five Gold The three premier marinas in the IGY Yacht Haven Grande Collection — Yacht BVI Yacht Sales Keeps Selling Boats! BVI Yacht Sales Keeps Selling Sales is proving that even in a ‘recession economy’ Brian Duff reports: BVI Yacht Nissan Outboards Now at Island Water World Nissan Outboards engines from Nissan. Competitively now carries outboard Island Water World models including a 15-horsepower version. Also available are four-stroke check Island Water World’s E-commerce website, For more information, please BUSINESS BRIEFS BUSINESS in 2011. comprehensive yacht brokerage program, Boatmax. normal broker’s commission of ten percent. There is absolutely no storage fee to be paid unless the boat is removed from the program before it sells. Owners decide the selling price. The boat is listed at the marina and also on the Yachtworld website (www.yachtworld.com), as Boatmax is a member of that listing service. —Continued on next page continue throughout this coming season. While now might not be the best time to continue throughout this coming season. While now might is active and boats are sell- sell your boat, it’s certainly not a bad time: the market ing because people still want to go sailing. States has been the buy and use their boats here. While in past years the United noticed this year a reduc- source of the majority of our buyers and sellers, we have has traditionally been the tion in buyers from the USA down ten percent. Europe we are seeing an second major source of sailors visiting our islands. However, of the world, which is really increase of over 20 percent in visitors from other parts of buyers from New Zealand, promising for our community on the whole. The arrival Canada has really helped Australia and in particular South American countries and and Europe over the past offset the effects of the troubled economies of the USA off in October: restau- few years. Each year our Caribbean Season typically kicks again in large numbers — the rants and hotels re-open and the visitors start coming again as well. weather cools off a bit and the sailors come back down sailing community of the northeast United States, a great reason to make the effort each year to set up a booth and display at the Annapolis Boat Show, held over the Columbus Day holiday each year. This show is attended by as many as 100,000 sail- ing and yachting enthusiasts and is a great place to meet new boaters, encourage visits to the Caribbean, and see lots of old friends as well. We sincerely hope to see you up there at Booth L10. And as always, please visit us at www.bviyachtsales.com. Haven Grande, St. Thomas; Rodney Bay Marina, St. Lucia; and The Yacht Club at Isle de Sol, St. Maarten — have each been awarded Five Gold Anchors by the Yacht Harbour Association (TYHA). The Gold Award Scheme is a voluntary assessment program, which is focused on customer service and providing quality moorings for the boat owner. The ratings range from one to five Gold Anchors and provide assurance of the credibility and quality of the marina when assessed against the technical criteria based on TYHA’s Code of Practice for the design, construction and operation of marinas. Marinas are assessed by fully qualified marina assessors, berth holders’ feedback and independent mystery shoppers. The program operates in 23 countries and has been active for 24 years. Recently, the program was given folks still want to go sailing. 2012 to date has been a much busier year than the pre- folks still want to go sailing. 18 percent; and more promising still we have found vious with volume up about have literally doubled relative to 2011 — showing sales of vessels over US$125,000 gaining the confidence to go sailing, but they are that not only are more buyers doing it on nicer boats as well. priced with a clean and simple design, the Nissan two-stroke two-cylinder engine Nissan two-stroke two-cylinder clean and simple design, the priced with a on the market — not only in terms of power-to- remains one of the best engines reliability. Island Water World carries a full range weight ratio, but also with excellent including 18-horsepower models. from 3.5 to 30 horsepower, and see ad on page 48. www.islandwaterworld.com OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 —Continuedonnextpage your boat?Recipesthatdon’trequirea bunch ofelectricalappliances? Good food,butnotgourmet?Usingingredients youcanactuallyfindandstoreon [email protected], (758)453-7065or 723-6668. an AccidentandFraudInvestigatorwith Expert WitnessGuidelines. qualified tosurveyfishingvessels,yachtsand smallvesselsandisalsofullyqualifiedas Lucia, whoresidesintheCastriesarea,isnowafullyqualifiedMasterMarineSurveyor With yearsofcommercialshippingexperiencebehindhim,OlsenMcQuilkinfromSt. now hasanewlyqualifiedmemberoftheUnitedStatesMarineSurveyorsAssociation. tion withtheMaritimeSchoolofWestIndies. Training Association(www.CaribbeanSailTrainingAssociation.com)andincoopera- islands thepossibilitytosailonshipasatraineethroughCaribbeanSail 11th andsailone-two-weekchartersaroundtheLeewardVirginIslands. as fromthenewseason.Theover100-year-oldvesselwillarrivearoundDecember pany madethedecisiontoworkwiththeiragent,YachtAssistance,outofSt.Martin received atFortLouisMarinaandthehospitalityonentireisland,owningcom- before crossingtheAtlanticbacktoEurope.Thanksgreatservicesthey eral filmsincluding“BlueLagoon”,“SavageIsland”,“Tai-Pan”and“WhiteSquall”. Marina inMarigotontheFrenchsideofSt.Martin.Theshiphasbeenfeaturedsev- — have thetimeforyou. just abouteverythingelse.Wehavetheexpertise,weinsurersand dinks todreadnoughts,watersports,pleasure,charter,cargo,serviceprovidersand ance isouronlybusiness.Weprovidealltypesofmarineinsuranceworldwide,from about yourbusiness. Have insurance“surprises”?Alwayshaveyourcallreturned? source rate?Doyouoftenknowmorethanyouragent?Payshould? site. NowtheprogramwillbereplicatedinCaribbeanatMarinaZarPar. for thepast17years,withanaverageof100boatsinprogramatalltimeson believe thisistheonlyprogramofitstype.IthasworkedexcellentlyatMinneford’s marina.com) onCityIslandinNewYork,afacilitythatIhaveownedsince1982. Looking forsomenewrecipesthatyoucan actuallymakeinyourboat’sgalley? Sneak PeekSampleofBoatGalleyCookbook Mr. McQuilkincanbecontactedforany kindofmarinesurveyworkatomc- Boat captains,owners,brokersandinsurancecompaniesareinformedthatSt.Lucia New MarineSurveyorinSt.Lucia For moreinformationvisitwww.EyeOfTheWind.net. Besides thecharters, The shipvisitedtheislandlastseasonforfirsttimeduringathree-daystopover The Tall ShiptoBaseatSt.MartinThisWinter For moreinformationseeadonpage37. Offshore RiskManagementInsuranceBrokers&Intermediariessay:Marineinsur- You needaSpecialistInsuranceBroker,notpart-timeagentthatknowslittle Offshore RiskManagementasks:Howdoesyourmarineorwatersportsinsurance Specialist MarineInsuranceBroker For moreinformationonMarinaZarParseeadpage35. The Boatmaxprogramwasstartedin1995atMinnefordMarina(www.minneford- Continued frompreviouspage Eye oftheWind Eye oftheWind willbebasedthiswinteronthepieratFortLouis alsooffersyoungstersintheCaribbean offers Boatmaxbrokerage Dominican Republicnow Marina ZarParinthe OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 Get your Get your yourself! Jamaican models Kimanee Wilson and Jaunel McKenzie have a new ‘insiders’ app for Caribbean travelers The Boat Cookbook Sampler The Boat Galley Cookbook due out this month, promises all that plus information promises all that plus due out this month, Continued from previous page Continued from The Boat Galley Cookbook, The Boat Galley “We wanted to provide other travelers with a guide that gave more than just a list McKenzie and Wilson also realized that not every traveler is comfortable pursuing McKenzie said it was important that the mobile application provide similar func- “With the growing number of smartphone users, our company is providing a more The easy-to-use MyTravel Insider mobile app will be available on both Apple and Travelers can sign up today with MyTravel Insider at www.mytravelinsider.com. Like But here’s the neat part — you can have a sneak peek of it right now, for free. a sneak peek of it right now, neat part — you can have But here’s the galley refer- as “the one comprehensive book, at 464 pages, is billed The complete Caribbean Marine Directory and Rating Program Caribbean Marine Directory launch a comprehensive Caribbean Marine Free Cruising Guides will shortly Watch this space! Cruising Guides see ad on page 37. For more information on Free Caribbean Alternatives MyTravel Insider: Convenient islands are looking for the kind of unique Modern travelers to the Caribbean for genuine alternatives to the standard locations “Travelers today are looking there was not a conve- Wilson and McKenzie have noted that during their travels, from the traditional guide.Two exclusive MyTravel Insider features truly separate it First, their unique “nearby” feature provides users a real-time map displaying services and destinations near the user directly on their mobile device, even without an inter- net connection; and the island-specific “musts” is a budget-friendly top ten list of activities Wilson and McKenzie feel really give travelers a true Caribbean experience. of popular destinations, we wanted travelers to have authentic Caribbean adven- tures,” Wilson said. “With that in mind, we created the ‘musts’ list, an overview of activities on each island that really enables travelers to experience the Caribbean culture and lifestyle.” adventures on their own and included a “native links” feature, a list of reputable local travel guides that users can contact directly from both the website and mobile device. tionality as the website because modern travelers expect technology to provide constant access to the same information. The MyTravel Insider app mirrors the web- site by providing businesses an opportunity to showcase their amenities with high quality slideshows on the website that are also appealing from handset-sized screens. The app not only provides these businesses’ contact information, it also pro- vides users with a convenient method of booking accommodations directly. efficient way to promote one’s business,” McKenzie added. “By providing a one- stop-shop for Caribbean travelers we’re able to conveniently connect businesses and travelers with one another.” Android platforms Fall 2012. them on Facebook www.facebook.com/mytravelinsider. Follow them on Twitter @mytravelinsider — on food storage, substitutions, outfitting your galley and more. Carolyn Shearlock galley and more. Carolyn substitutions, outfitting your on food storage, 21,000 miles cruisers with a combined the authors, are experienced and Jan Irons, under their keels. you can use but recipes and information fluffy marketing piece, And it’s not some on solving oven hot spots. recipes plus info right now: 33 boat-friendly copy at http://theboatgalley.com/sneak-peak-of-the-boat-galley-cookbook. cruising boat. It contains over 800 everyday recipes ence needed aboard every without electrical appliances, plus in-depth infor- made from obtainable ingredients But techniques, food storage, substitutions and more.” mation on unfamiliar cooking try don’t take their word for it — Directory and Rating Program. The Directory will be like other directories, however, The Directory will be like other directories, however, Directory and Rating Program. will be able to assign a one- through five-star rating the difference will be that users and leave comments as well. This program is sched- for the service they received 1st. uled to launch by December found in travel guides. Jamaican supermodels Kimanee adventures that cannot be know all too well about this and have started MyTravel Wilson and Jaunel McKenzie unfulfilled needs when traveling. Insider as a response to their “Today’s traveler wants a that everyone goes to when traveling,” McKenzie said. want to wait and sift through unique experience and they want it now; they don’t way of finding it and brochures to find that experience, they want a convenient booking it.” — one that provides the kind nient mobile application specialized to the Caribbean access to, while also allow- of information and recommendations only natives had they made sure to ing them to book directly. When they developed the service, these benefits, including a include specific functions that could give every traveler location and reviews and “nearby” function showing services in proximity to a user’s further prides itself on being ratings from fellow Caribbean travelers. MyTravel Insider “off-the-beaten-path” hidden able to provide intrepid travelers with highlights of the accommodations, beaches, gems as well as popular spots and detailed reviews of dining and nightlife. OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 Tyrrel BayYachtClub.FormanyyearstheClub restaurant, storeandlodgingformerlyknownasthe and themergingofitsoperationswithadjacent ownership oftheformerTyrrelBayHaul-Outfacility Lizzy on ward toassumetheleadershiproleareHarmand and bestwishesintheirnewlifestyle.Steppingfor- hearty thank-youfortheirmanyyearsofhardwork CCEF andtheentirecruisingcommunityoffera their leadershipandenthusiasmwillbemissed. were adrivingforcebehindCCEFformanyyears,and moving ashoreinFlorida,USA.JohnandMelodye retired fromthecruisinglife,sellingtheirsailboatand Children’s Education Support Carriacou Regatta-Time Fundraisers John andMelodyePompaon that, after18yearscruisingtheEasternCaribbean, TA MarryshowCommunityCollege. Harvey Valeschoolchildren),andscholarshipstothe and supplies,MealsfromKeels(lunchesforneedy CCEF projects,includingprovidingschooluniforms involved. Asalways,allproceedscollectedwillfund campaign broughtsmilestothefacesofeveryone north andtheresultsofCCEF’s2012fundraising annual regattaweek.Butthestormpassedto ties thattraditionallytakeplaceduringCarriacou’s ened cancellationofCCEF’smajorfundraisingactivi- tions. Thenthepossibilityofatropicalstormthreat- Carriacou Children’sEducationFund(CCEF)opera- to datemorethanEC$185,000(US$69,000). the CarriacouChildren’sEducationFund’sdonations and localbusinessesoveradozenyearshaspropelled More changesresultedfromtherecentchangein One ofthesignificantchangesinoperationswas CCEF OperationalChanges There wereseveralchangesthisyearinthe Continued supportfromthecruisingcommunity S/V Horta . S/V SecondMillennium by GordonEvans

12-year totaltooverEC$185,000 announcing theoverallfundraisingresults.Moredonationswerereceivedafterphotoshoot,bringing ‘We donegood!’TheCarriacouChildren’sEducationFundcruiservolunteersfor2012inatraditionalgroupphoto —Continuedonnextpage the auction. items, aswelluseoftheNightClub’sbalconyfor Arawak Divers,asstoragespaceforthedonated the AfterOursNightClub,locateddirectlyabove contributions. FrankieMathesongenerouslyoffered iting cruisers’donationsofitemsforauctionandcash their shoptoserveasthenewcollectionpointforvis- Yacht Clubforhispastcontributions. auction itself.Abigthank-youisduetoTrevorofthe CCEF’s AnnualCruisers’PotluckBarbecueandthe donated toCCEF’sannualcharityauction,andhosted served asthecollectionandstoragelocationforitems George andConnieofArawakDiversvolunteered OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 , , Anna Allegra Desio Caribbean Compass All At Sea deserves special recognition for collecting deserves special recognition This year’s CCEF fundraising activities culminated This year’s CCEF fundraising Many Thanks Congratulations are due to all involved and heart-felt Now, help us make our next goal: surpassing the gain table” of boat parts, electronics and all manner of boat parts, electronics and gain table” of table; books items; a household goods miscellaneous At about hats, T-shirts and more. and charts table; of larger Harm began the auctioning 1600 hours Auctioned by Gordon and George. items, assisted printer, a laptop computer, computer items included wind vane microwave, sea drogue, sewing machine, certifi- artwork and prints, several steering, original a for two” at nearby restaurants, cates for “dinners and a haul- a massage, a scuba lesson, gourmet cake, facility. While a number of out at Tyrrel Bay’s haul-out sale tables, John on volunteers assisted at the various S/V Nerissa “bargain table”. Despite an astounding EC$945 at the at the auction because of a much smaller attendance conditions, the auction the storm threat and rainy of EC$5,820. resulted in a total collection at Kate and Daniela’s on Thursday, August 5th traditional photo session Slipway Restaurant, with the 2012 results. Although and announcement of the on fundraising during weather had an adverse impact several cash dona- the Carriacou Regatta activities, bolstered the overall tions during the year significantly the collection of a results. Harm proudly announced for 2012’s campaign. record-setting EC$29,457 a couple days later Deposit of an additional EC$4,335 collection of funds for raised CCEF’s 12-year total to over EC$185,000. Carriacou’s school children thank-yous to all who donated. Recognition is due the following businesses for their generous donations — AD Prints, After Ours, Artwork, Arawak Divers, Carriacou Marine Ltd, Easy Shopping Supermarket, Kato Charles Folk Art Studio, Kim’s Plaza Supermarket, Lambi Queen Restaurant, Lazy Turtle Pizzeria, Lumbadive, Massages by Genevieve, Patty’s Deli, Regatta Jupa, Simply Carriacou Boutique, Slipway Restaurant, Tanty Lizzy’s Seaside Fountain, and Twilight Restaurant — and to everyone who makes CCEF’s free WiFi possible in Tyrrel Bay. EC$200,000 milestone in 2013’s CCEF campaign. Drop items for auction and cash contributions by Arawak Divers when you pass through Carriacou. See Daniela at the Slipway Restaurant for CCEF’s WiFi service. And mark Carriacou on your calendar for the 2013 Annual Carriacou Regatta! presenting original art- S/V Horta This event is more than an auction, with several With what was eventually to become Hurricane Hurricane eventually to become With what was work by Anna Allegra Desio to Melodye and John Pompa as a thank-you gift from CCEF Harm and Lizzy of Ernesto looming as an increasing threat to Carriacou, Ernesto looming as an increasing threat to Carriacou, on the Thursday a number of vessels sought refuge in the large mangrove lagoon adjacent to Tyrrel Bay. The yacht racing skippers’ meeting scheduled for that evening, as well as Friday’s Around the Island yacht race, were postponed, but CCEFs Annual Auction was held as scheduled at 1500 hours on the Friday afternoon. tables set up to sell donated items at whatever price can be negotiated. Tables included the popular “bar- and the attendance and raffle ticket donations com- and raffle ticket donations and the attendance efforts. EC$440 to CCEF’s fundraising bined to add see full Carriacou Regatta cov- , began distributing flyers to ves- , began distributing Compass]. On July 27th, Harm Compass]. On July 27th, S/V Dreamcatcher Continued from previous page Continued from Gordon also sold raffle tickets for the increasingly Events During Carriacou Regatta 2012 Events During Carriacou during the 48th annual On July 25th, to Carriacou, along A number of first-time visitors late Wednesday after- About 45 cruisers gathered Daniela of the Slipway Restaurant, located close to close to Slipway Restaurant, located Daniela of the popular Potluck Raffle of several items donated by popular Potluck Raffle of several items donated by local businesses. Raffle tickets could be bought at two for EC$5, but shrewd buyers opted to purchase five for EC$10. Following dinner and a last-second flurry of raffle ticket purchases, Gordon raffled the prizes. Although attendance was understandably smaller than in recent years, a good time was enjoyed by all, Regatta, Harm and Lizzy, assisted by Judy and Gordon and Lizzy, assisted by Judy Regatta, Harm on in both CCEF’s with seasoned cruisers, participated activities and the races [ erage in last month’s Lizzy’s Seaside Fountain noon, August 1st, at Tanty Potluck Barbecue, restaurant for the Annual Cruisers’ fundraising during the kick-off event for CCEF’s again organized this year’s Regatta. Judy and Gordon potluck, collecting EC$5 contributions from those attending. Tanty Lizzy’s is a new venue for this event, and although Tanty Lizzy was off-island, her son Eric provided two barbecue grills set up next to the covered picnic tables by the beach, as well as another canopied picnic table. Inside the restaurant Eric provided a large table for the various potluck dishes that cruisers brought to share, as well as a number of smaller tables for those who chose to eat their dinners inside. Thanks are due to Eric for his hospitality and his donation of charcoal, and to his son Deisean, who assisted Eric in distributing liquid refreshments at the cash bar. the haul-out facility, has assumed responsibility for for facility, has assumed responsibility the haul-out free WiFi ser- password for CCEF’s distributing the from users of voluntary donations vice and collecting that service. and to local businesses, sels anchored in Tyrrel Bay activities. detailing the upcoming CCEF local CCEF and Regatta began broadcasting the by the week- Cruisers’ Net on the VHF. Unfortunately, to the southeast end a developing tropical disturbance a major topic of con- of the Windward Islands became Wednesday of Regatta versation. Monday through that had gathered in Tyrrel week, a number of vessels farther south. Although Bay decided to head for parts by-passed Carriacou, a number of others en route stayed. fortunately, a few arrived and — OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 Participants ofallagescameouttoenjoythe Yacht Club(PCYC)inGrenadaonJuly21st. Cat MatchRaceshostedbythePetitCalivigny Friendly competitionflowedduringtheHobie Hobie RacesatGrenada’sNewestYachtClub REGATTA NEWS

members arewelcome. Grenada, particularlyintheCalivignyBayarea.New siasts tosupportyachtingeventsandwatersportsin ed amoreefficientraceday. for supplyingtwoadditionalHobiecatswhichfacilitat- Marina forthevenue,andRexGrenadianResort Shop andPalmTreeMarineforprizes,LePhareBleu Bob Goodchild(third). Kenzo Szyjan(first),AdamBrown(second),and the island’ssouthcoast.Winningplaceswentto superb dayofracingatLePhareBleuMarinaon For moreinformationvisitwww.pcycgrenada.com. The PCYCwasformedbyagroupofboatingenthu- The PCYCwishestothankeventsponsorsCanvas —Continuedonnextpage fame inthesportofwindsurfing.) who journeyfromhumblebeginningstointernational documentary tellingthestoryofchildrenfromBonaire (Click onthetrailerfor“ChildrenofWind”toseea or theFacebookpageProkidsWindsurfingBonaire. learn ortohoneyourwindsurfingskills. windward sideoftheisland,thereisperfectwindto In theprotectedandshallowwatersofLacBayon the windswerescreaming,soshowwasexciting! great performancesonthewater.Thesecondday years old:justtoocutetowatch! under ageseven,withtheyoungestbeingonlytwo the USAandtwofromHolland.Thereweresixsailors Aruba, 15fromCuraçao,twoMexico,one there were47participantsfromBonaire,two ticipants down—madeforgreatentertainment. department usesthebighosestotryknockpar- more inflatablefloatingobstacles—allwhilethefire across acourseoftrampolines,logs,junglegymsand Telbo BigSplashcompetition,whereparticipantsrace beach soccer,plusbands,barsandbarbecues.The up paddleboardraces,dominos,bocceball,and ed windsurffreestyleandslalomcompetitions,stand- Bonaire Windsurfersorganization.Theprograminclud- ebrated the25thanniversaryofAquaspeed Championship, heldAugust2ndthrough5th,alsocel- For moreinformationvisitwww.prokidsfreestyle.com The firstdaythewindsweremild,yettherestill Including manyofthetop-rankedsailorsinworld, The 8thProKidsBonaireFreestyleandSlalom Kids RockBonaireWindsurfChampionship

OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 A Class has now been added to those Class has now been added A Catamaran social activities over There will be plenty of fantastic on page 13. For more information see ad Barbados Race New Rapier Trophy for Round Mount Gay Rum Round A new trophy comes to the approach that This trophy celebrates the innovative In the early 1970s yacht racing in the region was sti- Mount Gay Rum have been warmly welcomed on on have been warmly welcomed Mount Gay Rum World, Sponsors, with Island Water board as Silver and Body Holiday, Johnson’s Hardware Cap Maison, Lucia Yacht as Bronze Sponsors. The St. Food Express and others grateful to all sponsors Club is extremely this a variety of prizes to support who are donating inaugural regatta. combined Cruising Yachts, and the of Racing Yachts, start and Class Yachts. All races will J/24 and Surprise of room for spectators. finish in Rodney Bay with plenty and Surprise Class will The main event of the J/24 30-minute races over the comprise three sets of three races for each of the two days, with three longer Class monohulls and Racing Class monohulls, Cruising Cruising Class . Club and the Marina, the weekend, both at the Yacht and the formal prizegiving. including a welcome party Watch this space next month! Rapier Trophy will be Barbados Racing Series. The the best corrected time for awarded to the yacht with island as calculated the circumnavigation of the Handicap Rule. under the CSA Measurement to measurement handi- Al Rapier of Trinidad applied capping of yachts in the Caribbean. His work has enabled yachts to race throughout the region over the past 40 years using a measurement system that allows the yacht to be measured in the water. The sys- tem flourishes today as one of the most practical and fair handicap systems in the world: the Caribbean Sailing Association’s Racing Rule. fled by the lack of an active regional body to man- age the sport and by the lack of a credible handi- cap system under which to race. Into that void came Al Rapier who, encouraged by others in Trinidad, especially Sydney Knox, came up with a solution. From that work and the input of others from Antigua, Barbados, the US and British Virgin Islands, the West Indies Yachting Association, now the Caribbean Sailing Association, was born and the regional regattas we know today found a platform on which to play. —Continued on next page VC7U  )`VJ:R:Q:`RQ`Q%`1I 2013 REGATTa %R$V :`1JVR1`VI:J#Q%V%&'CVH `1H :VR:  V .:`VCV%:`1J:5:C101$J7:7 SOUTH GRENADA SOUTH GRENADA WWW.SOUTHGRENADAREGATTA.COM goes to press. IGY goes to press. IGY

Compass &/+0: $0.& (3&"540$*"- 1-"//&%'03 '6/$5*0/4"3& 5)&'6/ '3* 4"546/ You can expect great racing along St. Croix’s north great racing along St. Croix’s You can expect Be one of the lucky winners to be weighed on the For more information see ad on page 12. December: St. Lucia’s Inaugural Mango Bowl Regatta Excitement is building rapidly in anticipation of St. Marinas were quick to confirm a generous Gold Marinas were quick to confirm a generous Gold Sponsorship and support for future years. The Ocean Club in Rodney Bay Marina, Nagico Insurance and committee has pulled out all stops to draw sailors from pulled out all stops to draw committee has 48 States. Caribbean and the upper throughout the dock Island Channel, free (limited) shore and Buck for all classes, an experienced space, race courses for all live entertainment, trophies Race Committee, in rum for winning skipper’s weight classes PLUS the service, seven or more entrants, shuttle any class with Immigration on site and expedited Customs clearance islands, affordable accommoda- services for down taxi and shuttle service tions ($50-a-night condos), and free airport transfers from the St. Croix Yacht Club, (advance notice please!). club’s Famous Cruzan Rum Scales! The scales date back 20 years and were originally built for Mumm’s Champagne — the weighing of a winning skipper is a Mumm’s tradition. In 1992, Peter Holmberg was the first winning skipper to get his weight in Champagne. Today, winning skippers are weighed in Cruzan Rum. Register now! Lucia’s new Mango Bowl Regatta taking place December 1st and 2nd, with nearly EC$38,000 worth of sponsorship already committed and more expect- ed as this issue of : ND Check SLYC Website for prgress on “FEEDER Website Check SLYC FROM BARBADOS TO RACE” YACHT AT STARTING ST LUCIA, RODNEY BAY, 24. MIDNIGHT ON NOVEMBER INCLUDING

and racing

will race together with & 2 ST CLASSES

YACHT

- SLYC SAILING CAPTAIN Cell : +1758 4841003 SAILING CAPTAIN - SLYC will also receive trophies for 1st, 2nd & 3rd - SAILING COMMITTEE MEMBER Cell : +1758 5187784 SENIOR will also receive trophies for 1st, 2nd & 3rd

if you pay & enter before ALL

US$100.00 DECEMBER I TO

4-:$XFCTJUFGPSQBZNFOUEFUBJMT 'SBODL$IFWSJFS XXXTUMVDJBZBDIUDMVCDPN CONTACTS: &EHBS3PF an overall Cash Prize plus Sponsor Trophies on Handicap plus Sponsor Trophies an overall Cash Prize Series for 1st, 2nd & 3rd for the Short Nine Race will receive trophies for 1st, 2nd & 3rd %JTDPVOU &OUSZ'FF November16th. Friday Visit: 4QPOTPST*ODMVEF OPEN THE INAUGURAL ST LUCIA YACHT CLUB THE INAUGURAL ST LUCIA YACHT t4VSQSJTF$MBTT+$MBTT t4VSQSJTF$MBTT t+$MBTT t3BDJOH$SVJTJOH$MBTT:BDIUTQMVT$SVJTJOH$MBTT$BUBNBSBOT Continued from previous page Continued from All the extras aside, Bonaire takes the sailing seriously, The week is finished off with the Budget Marine Ship- For more information visit: www.bonaireregatta.org. Next Month: St. Croix International Regatta 2012 Come race and celebrate the 20th anniversary of Bonaire Celebrates 45th Regatta This Month Bonaire Celebrates a bet for 27 began in 1968 with The Bonaire Regatta festival become an island-wide The Regatta has including domino, softball and youth football (soccer) including domino, softball and walks, runs, a swim to Klein tournaments, bicycle tours, a boat parade, barbe- Bonaire, a flag parade and cues and more. The waterfront road through town is closed and stands sell arts and crafts, food and drink. The regatta has grown into such an island tradition that the schools even close for the whole week. with categories for model micro-boats, Optimists, Sunfish, beach cats, windsurfers and traditional fishing boats, plus racing, cruising and open yacht classes. to-Shore Boat party where boats raft up along the shore and enjoy live bands on shore. The Bonaire Regatta is like no other — come and see for yourself! the St. Croix International Regatta. Registration and the Opening Party are November 8th, November 9th through 11th, with an entry fee of only US$100. Thanks to generous local sponsors, the regatta cases of beer between Captain Don Stewart and Ebo between Captain Don Stewart cases of beer Sailing 45th Bonaire International Domacasse. The October 7th through 13th. Regatta will run — OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 Trophy, presentedtoarecord-breakingdouble-hand- ; TheBarbadosCruisingClubDoubleHanded Rum MultihullTrophy,presentedtoarecord-breaking sented toarecord-breakingmonohull;TheMountGay The BarbadosTourismAuthoritySuperyachtTrophy,pre- Trophy, presentedtoarecord-breakingclassicyacht; Round BarbadosRace:TheErrolBarrowClassicYacht competing inthe77thAnniversaryMountGayRum petual trophiesawardedtorecord-breakingyachts — of 4hours,24minutes,27seconds Palmer ofBarbados,holdsthecurrentmultihullrecord Silver Bullet The AlRapiertrophyjoinsothercommemorativeper- Continued frompreviouspage 284-494-2830 Parts &Power: 284-494-3494 Marine MaintenanceSvcs: 284-494-2400 Cay Electronics: Tortola: 868-634-4272 Dockyard Electrics: 868-667-7158 Engine Tech Co.Ltd: Trinidad &Tobago: 340-775-9912 All PointsMarine: St. Thomas: 599-544-2051 Electec: St. Maarten: 758-450-0552 Martinek: St. Lucia: 340-776-6665 Coral BayMarine: St. John: 340-773-0289 St. CroixMarine: St. Croix: 596-596-787-196 Inboard DieselSvcs: Martinique: 473-439-2049 Enza Marine: 473-443-1667 Grenada Marine: Grenada: 767-448-2705 Dominica MarineCenter: Dominica: 784-457-3114 Caribbean Diesel: Bequia: 268-460-3049 Seagull Yacht Svcs: 268-460-1850 Marine PowerSvcs: Antigua: , acustomSupercat30ownedbyBryn C001

www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com BIM MEDIA GROUP, BARBADOS GROUP, MEDIA BIM Reliability. Durability. Simplicity. Simplicity. Durability. Durability. Reliability. staged onGrandAnseBeachfromFebruary1st Grenada SailingFestivalWorkBoatRegattawillbe ing itasaNationalSailingandCulturalEvent.The20th part ofGrenada’sIndependencecelebrations,profil- tional WorkBoatRegatta,tomakeitanevenbigger concentrate itsmanpowerandresourcesonthetradi- during thefirstweekofFebruary. are beingmanagedseparately,theywillbothoccur Although in2013theworkboatandyachtregattas experience oftraditionallocalworkboatracing. for aninternationalkeelboatfleet,andthemust-see Grenada SailingWeek2013 www.mountgayrumroundbarbadosrace.com. weight inMountGayRumExtraOld. Barbados RecordonJanuary21stwillwintheskipper’s Cola Cup,presentedtothefastestBarbadianyacht. sented tothefastestregionalyachtandTheCoca The MountGayRumCaribbeanChallengeShield,pre- presented toarecord-breakingsingle-handedyacht; ed yacht;TheAndrewBurkeSingleHandedTrophy, The GrenadaSailingFestivalBoardhasdecidedto Once againGrenadawillseeamixofgreatracing Grenada SailingFestivalWorkBoatRegattaandNew For moreinformationvisit And —anyyachtbreakinganexistingRound Relatives throughouttheCaribbean A FamilyofGeneratorswith —Continuedonnextpage the newGrenadaSailingWeek. a newboardwaselectedtoorganizeandmanage than 25membersoftheGrenadasailingcommunity, contact [email protected]. Grenada SailingWeek Sailing Week.Meanwhile,formoreinformationon established shortlyaswillaFacebookpage:Grenada Work BoatRegattavisitwww.grenadasailingfestival.com. regional sailingcalendar. ditional eventswillremainanimportantpartofthe that Grenada’suniqueblendofinternationalandtra- new GrenadaSailingWeekinitiativeandisconfident Lay DaySunday,February3rd. (February 1st),Saturday,MondayandTuesday,with on January31st,withracedaystheFriday ern coastsofGrenada.TheSkippers’Briefingwillbe great sailingconditionsaroundthewesternandsouth- through 5th,withracecoursesmakingthemostof Grenada SailingWeek,willbeheldFebruary1st and visitorsalike. ence ofseveralthousandovertheweekend—locals Petite Martinique.Theeventregularlyattractsanaudi- Sauteurs, WoburnandsisterislandsCarriacou ditional fishingcommunitiesofGrandMal,Gouyave, in wooden,sprit-riggedboatsamongtheisland’stra- through 3rd,providingspectacularcompetitiveracing DeCaul, PatrickBrathwaite,NicholasGeorge Left toright:MikeBingley,RichardSzyjan,Marc On September10th,outofanactiongroupmore New BoardforGrenadaSailingWeek The websitewww.grenadasailingweek.comwillbe For moreinformationontheGrenadaSailingFestival The GrenadaSailingFestivalBoardfullyendorsesthe The competitivekeelboatregatta,nowcalled OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 Rambler Region , will be returning Sojana Boat Captain, Marc Fitzgerald Boat Captain, Marc Fitzgerald Although it is never possible to Although it is never possible Sojana’s Sojana. , set the multihull course record of 40 in 2011. John Burnie’s ORMA 60, For more information visit www.caribbean600.rorc.org. Dinghy Concert to Open South Grenada Regatta 2013 The South Grenada Regatta committee is all set for The monohull course record of 40 hours 20 minutes There will be plenty of shoreside activities for sailors for sailors plenty of shoreside activities There will be a bareboat or fully- Bring your own boat, charter For more information visit www.jollyharbourregatta.com. 600 ‘A Full Workout’: RORC Caribbean Caribbean 600, the The fifth edition of the RORC 600 fleet will be The majority of the RORC Caribbean Guadeloupe hours 11 minutes and 5 seconds in 2009, and Burnie will be back to defend that record in 2013. their fifth annual regatta, to be held February 21st through 24th, 2013. To celebrate the start of the SGR there will be a “dinghy concert” on February 20th, fol- lowed by the skippers’ briefing the following evening. —Continued on page 45 says, “It is a rare occasion when we can unleash the says, “It is a rare occasion when full power of likely that the Caribbean guarantee wind, it is highly seas and fantastic sail- 600 will deliver big breeze, big is not just a sleigh ride. ing conditions, but the 600 There are many tactical decisions to be made and the course has so many twists and turns that it is a full workout for the crew. If someone was to write a case study of the strategies for this race, it would run to many pages.” and 2 seconds was set by George David’s 100 one-designs. A pursuit race series will also be held for pursuit race series will also one-designs. A starts. A individual starts to fleet those who prefer will provide with the dinghy racing, poker run, along conditions opportunities. Sailing spectacular viewing Antigua are on the west coast of outside Jolly Harbour flat waters with great winds. ideal — generally evening fea- alike, with parties each and non-sailors the shop- the marina docks and turing the beach, for its facilities. Antigua is famous ping and dining finale is one not to beach parties and this event’s be missed! or secure a place on equipped racing charter boat, charter individual spots. one of the many boats that race (600 miles), Caribbean’s only offshore distance 18th, 2013. will start in Antigua on February Classes. Peter Harrison’s made up of five separate IRC magnificent 114-foot , to take part.

JODY SALLONS-DAY The Foundation Partners of this expanded sailing fes- Partners of this expanded The Foundation to contract withA new company will be formed CSA-rated boats, bare- Classes will be available for anniversary by significantly increasing the scope of this significantly increasing the anniversary by the week event. The beginning of popular Antigua of the last Valentine’s Day is one that encompasses the for a major regatta in time slots available Association’s racing calendar. Caribbean Sailing Ltd., Developments (Antigua) tival include Caribbean Harbour Jolly Harbour Marina, Jolly Budget Marine, and Harbour Merchants’ Association Yacht Club, Jolly Homeowners’ Association. Jolly Harbour marketing and man- Mainstay Caribbean, an event Antigua, to deliver theagement company based in of professionally managedevent, including three days ten-foot draft.fun racing for boats with a maximum Dragons and other boats, Carriacou , Lasers, Continued from previous page Continued from Jolly Harbour Valentine’s Regatta in Antigua Jolly Harbour Valentine’s Regatta 10th, 2013, the Jolly From February 7th through The board of five includes Chairman Marc DeCaul, five includes Chairman Marc The board of are from the marine industry Many more people Harbour Valentine’s Regatta will celebrate its 20th Harbour Valentine’s Regatta racer and sailmaker Richard Szyjan, sportsman and Richard Szyjan, sportsman racer and sailmaker Sailing Brathwaite, Grenada businessman Patrick Association the Marine and Yachting Association and sailor and Nicholas George, and of Grenada member owner Mike Bingley. marine business the “lean but keen” board and supporting this will once Week. Grenadian racers Grenada Sailing challenging yachtsmen again “Sail de Spice” in 2013, the world to match from the Caribbean and around their racing skills. — OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 describe it:thegarden’slayoutgivesimpressionof in allhersplendour”andit’saverygoodwayto let advertisingthegardenspromises“Naturemastered with littleinformationplaquesnexttothem.Theleaf- winds throughbeautifulgroupsofplantsandtrees, cally jumpoutofthewatertogetatfood.Apath feed thefish,whoscrambleovereachotherandpracti- lilies andhugekoicarp.Youcanbuybagsoffoodto the tropicaltreesandplants. village andspenttwoorthreehourswanderingamong band, Kevin,andIwalkedupthesteephillfrom this pleasantharbour,oneSundaymorningmyhus- garden. Afteranchoringourcat, the northwestofGuadeloupe,isanamazingbotanical all inoneplace?TheJardinBotaniqueDeshaies, tropical flowers,parrots,flamingosandhummingbirds Getting toKnowGuadeloupe The firstthingyoucometoisalargepondwithwater Where intheLeewardIslandscanyouseebeautiful A JardinofEarthlyDelights

DESTINATIONS Anse alaBarqueontheisland’swestcoastiscrowdedwithlocalboats,butifconditionsarerightit’sworthstop Sweet Sensation by ChristineGooch , in mingbirds hoveredatbrightlycolouredflowers. ing withtheirbeaksinasmallpond,andtinyhum- Bright pinkflamingosbalancedononelegwhileforag- the fenceranoutanditcouldnolongerfollowher. around itsenclosureandlookingverycrestfallenwhen parrot followed,sidlingalongthetopoffence who wastalkingtoit.Whentheladywalkedaway One oftheparrotstookalikingtoFrenchtourist yellow parrotsperchoutsidecutelittlewoodenhouses. on yourarmwhileyoufeedthem.Fartheron,blueand green andredlorikeetsflyaroundyourheadorperch back home. worth themoney,especiallyifyouareakeengardener once wehadbeenroundthegardensfeltitwas The entryfeeof14euroseachseemedexpensive,but On acleardaythereareviewsacrosstoMontserrat. grouped intoswathesofcolourandcontrastingshapes. walking throughatropicalforestbuttheplantsare You cangoinsideabigwireenclosurewherecheeky —Continuedonnextpage restaurant, althoughtherestauranthascloseddown. the fishingboatharbourandleaveitbyLaNoteBleu You canstilltakeyourdinghyupthelittlecanalbeside newly restoredjettyonthewaterfrontdangerouslytricky. uncomfortable, ifnotuntenable,andlandingatthe come upunexpectedly,makingtheanchoragevery other cruisingfriendstoldusaheavywesterlyswellcan so theyareouttherecheckingup. launch speedingupanddownthecoastseveraltimes, on yachtieswhodon’tbother.WesawtheCustoms clear in,astheauthoritiesarequicktolevyheavyfines Immigration. Wewerewarnedtomakesurewedid around acoupleofeurositissentofftoCustomsand enter theinformationontoacomputerandforfeeof dures inGuadeloupeareveryquickandeasy:you shop, manyofthemlocallymade.Clearanceproce- We didn’t have any problems in the anchorage, but We didn’thaveanyproblemsintheanchorage,but lovely souvenirsinhis and helpful,hassome The ownerisveryfriendly Antigua andDominica. break thetripbetween island, agoodplaceto Deshaies atthetopof Pelican inthevillageof out ofGuadeloupeatLe everyone’s liking. strong tasteisnotto France butitsdistinctive much prizedinmainland cole which ismadeinto tourism andsugarcane, The mainindustriesare “Island ofPrettyWaters”. Karukera whichmeans name forGuadeloupeis Caribbean. TheCarib ported intacttothe France hasbeentrans- though apartofmainland and italmostfeelsas ed, therearemorevillages the landismorecultivat- Dominica orStVincent; not sodramaticas volcanic island,although a taxifromthevillage. either walkedthere,ortook never materialised.Sowe come andfetchus,they and despitepromisingto and craftshopinDeshaies, Pelican, aninternetcafé help oftheownerLe dens, butevenwiththe fer advertisedbythegar- phoning forthefreetrans- staying withus,wetried had friendsfromtheUK You cancheckinand Deshaies Guadeloupe isagreen On othervisits,whenwe rum—apparently agri- OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 SAVE ON ON SAVE • AUCKLAND LIGHT MAINTENANCE LIGHT MAINTENANCE • BRISBANE PALMA DE MALLORCA PALMA IDEAL FOR YACHT OWNERS WITH OWNERS WITH IDEAL FOR YACHT • ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY—CUTS ON ON FRIENDLY—CUTS ENVIRONMENTALLY • GOLFITO ST. THOMAS ST. E-mail: [email protected] LESS WEAR AND TEAR ON YACHT LESS WEAR AND TEAR ON YACHT • • MAINTAIN RESALE VALUE RESALE VALUE MAINTAIN • NEWPORT NEWPORT RELIABLE SET SCHEDULES The Saintes The Saintes, a group of half a dozen small islands, Pain du Sucre anchorage is named after a large • lie six miles south of mainland Guadeloupe. Although lie six miles south of mainland Guadeloupe. Although they are only six miles away, we found the passage from Vieux Fort was often hard on the wind and against the swell, with passing rain squalls; the only time we managed to sail there, as opposed to motoring, was when a low swell meant we could motor up the south coast of Guadeloupe to get a good slant across and we managed to sail right up to Pain du Sucre anchorage. On the way across we could see Marie Galante clearly, a low pancake-shaped island about 12 miles east-northeast of The Saintes. We really wanted to go there, but being farther to windward it is even harder to get to; what you really need would be a northeast wind and swell on route from Antigua, changing to east as soon as you anchor otherwise the one anchorage would be untenable — but I think that is highly improbable outside of the hurricane season! dome-shaped rock with narrow vertical ridges that look like the marks made on a muffin by the paper case it is baked in, and topped by scrubby bushes resembling the sugar icing. The clear water was a lovely cobalt blue in the deeper patches, turquoise and ultramarine in the lighter ones. In one corner of the bay are the coral buildings of the Hotel Bois Joli and its sandy beach; in the other is another smaller sandy beach backed by palm trees. —Continued on next page boats with a and a square supported by a and a square mainsail supported boats with a jib of the mast diagonally from the bottom sprit running saw a huge corner of the sail. We also to the aft top to us that we on the surface so close turtle swimming shell. barnacles on the back of its could see the PORT EVERGLADES PORT GENOA : Tel. +596 596 741 507 : Tel. GIVE CREW A VACATION BREAK GIVE CREW A VACATION • WWW.YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM Adress: Port de Plaisance, Boulevard Allegre, 97290 Le Marin Allegre, Port de Plaisance, Boulevard Adress: UPCOMING CARIBBEAN SAILINGS MARTINIQUE MARTINIQUE MARTINIQUE MARTINIQUE PORT EVERGLADES PORT : : MARTINIQUE MARTINIQUE DYT Martinique : : Stop by the office and Nadine will be happy to provide you with an obligation-free quote! Stop by the office racing. They are open OCTOBER, 2012 NOVEMBER, 2012 DECEMBER, 2012 MARCH, 2013 CARBON EMISSIONS CHARTER COMMITMENTS CHARTER BENEFITS OF SHIPPING YOUR YACHT WITH DYT BENEFITS OF SHIPPING YOUR YACHT OFF ON, FLOAT SAFEST LOADING METHOD—FLOAT ENGINE HOURS, MAINTENANCE, AND FUEL COSTS POSSIBLE WHILE YACHT IS UNDERWAY IS UNDERWAY POSSIBLE WHILE YACHT Sweet Sensation

yoles Photo by Onne van der Wal der van Onne by Photo Above: Another ti punch, please, barman! We also spent a night anchored off Basse Terre, the Off Vieux Fort at the southwestern tip of Guadeloupe Left: Chris and Kevin aboard managed an afternoon spent snorkelling off the rocky managed an afternoon spent snorkelling off the rocky headlands at the entrance to the bay and an overnight stop. The bay is easy to spot as there is a distinctive navigation light on the northern headland and another clearly marked “Anse a la ” in large letters at the head of the bay. capital of Guadeloupe. We thought it might be some- where to stock up on supermarket shopping, rather than beating to windward to get to Le Marin on Martinique, but the anchorage was exposed and it was a very long walk along the seafront promenade to the town. We dinghied into the municipal marina but it was run down, had a rather alarming unlit wreck in the entrance channel, and there were scant facilities for visiting yachts. We only managed to find the har- bour master because he was guiding another visiting yacht into a berth. He suggested we could come along- side the same quay to take on water, but having seen the jagged surface of the wall and the fact that the other yacht ran aground trying to get into the berth they had been allocated, we decided against this. we passed a couple of local the west coast of Guadeloupe a few times and most of Guadeloupe a few times the west coast of miles as turned westerly for a couple times the wind bay crowded Anse a la Barque, a small we approached of yachts on boats and a couple with local fishing though and one occasion we were lucky moorings. On Yacht at Rest, Mind at Ease Yacht Continued from previous page Continued from In the Lee of Guadeloupe We found that sailing in the lee of Guadeloupe the You can hire a car from Deshaies and explore the Deshaies appears to have many French holiday to have many French Deshaies appears wind was generally light and fluky, with gusts racing wind was generally light and fluky, with gusts racing down from the higher ground. We sailed up and down part of the island called Grande Terre. closed or changed hands since it was written, includ- ing the bakery — which we never did find, although the small supermarkets had fresh bread daily. homes. The two parallel streets have lots of souvenir parallel streets have lots homes. The two charming old restaurants and several shops and small Kaz restau- Our favourite was La wooden buildings. spilling down of purple bougainvillea rant with a mass the eve- and over its front. We thought from the roof islands), was good value (for the French ning set menu the price for Saturday evenings when but watch out two or three is live music. There are goes up, as there fishing harbour in a corner supermarkets, and a small stone wall. The supermar- of the bay, protected by a stores but for a really big kets are fine for topping up and Fort de France in shop we found Le Marin value. Our cruising guide Martinique easier and better old, but a sign of the times was only a couple of years shops and restaurants had was that we found several — OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 rent inlocalhomes;myfavouritenamewasChezMme French holidayhomesandrooms/smallapartmentsto talising viewofMarieGalante.Wepassedlots headlands oneitherendofthelongbeachandatan- where surfrolledontothesand.Thereweresandstone low hilltoabeachonthewindwardsideofisland, Kevin andIdidsomeexploringonfoot,walkingovera the mainpedestrianstreet. ger thecaseandyouhavetogoaninternetcaféin check in/outattheMairie,butinfactthisisnolon- shopping inpeace.Ourcruisingguidesaidweshould small supermarketswherethelocalscometodotheir shops andrestaurantsareclosed,exceptforthe Before theyarriveandoncehaveleft,mostofthe the streetsbusybetween0900and1700hours. day-trippers fromtheGuadeloupemainland,making and restaurants.Severalferriesadaybringhordesof shaped likethebowofaship,lotssouvenirshops wooden shuttersandFrenchdoors,ahouseincliff there arered-roofedbuildingsintheFrenchstylewith you cancheckintooroutofGuadeloupe.Ashore picturesque littletownofBourgdesSaintes,where most oftheanchorages.Wepickedupabuoyoff Reserve andmooringbuoyshavebeenputdownin Saintes youcananchor;muchoftheareaisaMarine — NEW NAMEFORCARAIBEGREEMENT•MORESERVICES Tel: +596(0)596748033 [email protected] www.caraibe-marine.fr Service After Sale You canhirescooterstoexploreTerred’enBas,but Pain duSucreisoneofthefewplacesinThe Continued frompreviouspage and flowers. including onewithabeautifuldesignofhummingbirds pastel coloursandsomehadgingerbreadfretwork, Bonbon. Severalofthehouseswerepaintedincalming Martinique-LeMarinMarina another voyage Below: Montserratinthedistance—temptationfor at Deshaies Left: Flamingosgracethebotanicalgardens their 38-footProutcatamaran through theRiviereSaléeinmiddleofisland. Next yearwehopetoreturnandmakethepassage while sippingthelocal the sandcompleteddecoration,whichweadmired hammocks andbigsquashysofasunderanawningon cartoon muralofCaptainJackSparrow,assorted English oldsalt’sheart)wasnailedaboveit.Alarge and anoldSeagulloutboardengine(deartomany Club barwaspaintedbrightorange,yellowandblue man appearedfromthehousenextdoor.TheYacht the bellhangingbyfrontgate,whereuponbar- ingly closed,butKevinwalkedupthebeachandrang they dinghiedashore.TheYachtClublookedworry- meet KevinandColinattheYachtClub1700 to thewindwardbeachonroute.Wehadarranged pausing tobrowseinthesouvenirshopsandwalkover and IstrolledroundtotheYachtCluboneafternoon, nets inthenextbay. goats weregrazingandfishermensettingtheir on asmallheadlandoverlookingtheanchorage,where could landthedinghy.Weclimbedtoruinedfort small “YachtClub”overlookingabeachwherewe — thump,thump.”Furtheralongwefounda More touristsandtheyallwanttopatmeonthehead thinking, “AnotherdayinParadise—I’msobored. hunched andhehunghishead.Weimaginedwas ioned gramophone,exceptthathisshoulderswere the oldHMVrecordlabelssittingbesideanfash- a veryfed-uplookingdog.Hewasjustlikethedogon beach andonthestepsofonehouseswepassed sailing yolesandfishingboatsweredrawnuponthe Kevin andChrisGoocharesailingtheCaribbeanin All inallweenjoyedthetimespentGuadeloupe. Friends fromtheUKcameouttovisitus,andJanice Another daywestrolledalongthewaterfront.Local ti punch Sweet Sensation . . OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 —Continuedonnextpage ous. Thebelow-mentioneddirectionsfrom ourfriendleadtothedesiredspot.) right turnhere,weneverdaredtochance itasweconsiderTrinitrafficquitehazard- a friendwithextensivelocalknowledge, and althoughwesupposeyoucouldtakea erly directionuntilyouseeabigNPsign onyourright.(Wegotourdirectionsfrom articles, tools(fromsandpaperandbrushes togenerators),electricalstuff,etcetera. mous departmentstoreyoucanbuyliterally everythingandatlowprices:domestic money anddoityourself? gas bottlesfilledthroughPowerboatsorPeake’s,butwhileonyourwaywhynotsave a taxichargesatleastTT$250).Tel.(868)739-6449,www.crackajackrentals.com. top ofthatyoucanarrangetodropoffattheairportforTT$100more(interesting,when and hisserviceincludescardeliverytoyourboatpick-up—noworries,mate! On (TT$200 perday).StuartkeepshisboatatIMS.Heisaneasy-goingAustralianfellow gested “Crackajack”,StuartStevenson,whorentsexcellentcarsforthesameprice head officeintownrentedcarsonlyforaminimumoftwodays.Afriendourssug- one cansail,wecombinebusinesswithpleasure,rentacarandareonourway. see somethingelse.Andbecauseprovisioningisoneoftheessentialpreparationsbefore practically spickandspanagain,wearefedupwiththedustyboatyardready to don’t takemuchtimeofffromthehardwork.Butafteraweek,when in Suriname,whichisevenclosertotheequator)wealwaysstartenthusiastically and and, ofcourse,stockingup. repairs tooddjobssuchascleaningthedecksandinterior,winches,hullbottom, most importantly:tickingoffeachitemonseemingly-endlessto-dolists,frommajor Catching upwitholdfriends,makingnewenjoyingtheeventsashore.And have beenlaidupinoneoftheboatyards,andgettingthemreadytosailagain. start. AllthosesailorsflyingintoTrinidadfromallovertheworldtotheiryachtsthat Cathedral (below),youcanexperiencemanyfacetsofTrinidadinadaytrip From thefriendlyfunofMacqueripeBeach(above)toserenityBamboo TOURING INTRINIDAD Once pastPortofSpain,continueonthe Churchill-RooseveltHighwayinaneast- Drive pastPortofSpainandifnecessary stopatBaghwansingh’s.Atthisenor- Usually ourfirstgoalistobuycookinggas.Ofcourse,youcanhaveyourempty When werentedacarlastFebruary,EconocaratCrewsInnwasclosedwhiletheir Get ‘gasmileage’outofyourrentalcar AS As we are quite able to stand Trinidad’s tropical heat (we are Dutch but actually live As wearequiteabletostandTrinidad’stropicalheat(weDutchbutactuallylive

ing everybody’s excitement about the sailing season that is about to ing everybody’sexcitementaboutthesailingseasonthatisto returns tolife.Welovethehustleandbustleinyardswatch- the hurricaneseasoncomestoanend,yachtsceneinChaguaramas — FORFREE! by PetraandJanWillemVersol ALL ASHORE… Witte Raaf is is OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 • Covered drydock SERVICES REPAIR SHIPYARD • Covered • • Drydock facilities up to 65M & 1000 tonne blasting • 40 tonne travel lift • Sand & metal work Woodwork • • berglass painting, fi Welding, SERVICES MARINA Electrical, refrigeration & mechanical repairs • • 22 berths for yachts from 22M- 65M • Electricity & water Shower & toilet Fax: email: Phone: ottleyhall St. Vincent St. Vincent 784-456-1302 784-457-2178 784-456-2640 @gmail.com VHF Channel 16 VHF Channel 16 & the Grenadines . (Note: They PM to 3:30 AM , in Trinidad during the hurricane season. They have been Witte Raaf Continued from previous page Continued from Petra and Jan Willem Versol are a Dutch couple who live in Suriname and keep their The biggest profit of the day You already earned back more than half the costs of your rental car by saving At the end of the road to Macqueripe, there are some of the old US military base End the day in Macqueripe Close to Chaguaramas is another stupendous bay and beach: Macqueripe. Normally, Follow the road to Petit Valley and return to the Western Main Road to the big Time to stock up splendid bay views and Continue on the same road and admire the numerous While enjoying your lunch, soak up the laid-back atmosphere on the beach, and While enjoying your lunch, soak up the laid-back atmosphere Once out of the forest you have arrived in Blanchisseuse on the north coast.Once out of the forest you have arrived in Blanchisseuse As you drive into this north-Trinidadian jungle, a more stunning landscape opens As you drive into this north-Trinidadian jungle, a more Have a drink and a snack in one of the many villages you pass and in Arima, take one of the many villages you pass and in Arima, take Have a drink and a snack in Tour the countryside on the highway back to Port of Spain. But with Leaving NP you will find yourselves By the way, make sure you are “properly” dressed: according to the sign at the gate, dressed: according to the sign sure you are “properly” By the way, make Once you see the NP sign, you’re about to arrive at a big Y-junction. Choose the to arrive at a big Y-junction. the NP sign, you’re about Once you see cruising the Caribbean for six years and consider the southeastern Caribbean — from Trinidad up to Dominica — their new home waters. 40-foot ketch, money on the cooking gas, but now the time has come to make the best deal of the day. When we do this tour we bring as many empty diesel jerrycans as we can, and at the end of the day head for a service station along the side of the road. Last time we paid only TT$165 for 90 liters of diesel, which is actually a quarter of the inter- national price that yachts have to pay in the bay. So here’s the biggest profit of the day — and you have enjoyed your rental car free of charge! buildings from WWII. Go down the steps from the parking lot to a small rocky beach to wash off the sweat of the day with a dip in the seawater. Refreshing! Macqueripe Beach is a pleasant place to hang around for a bit. We went there twice and both times it was bustling with locals who were limin’ and swimmin’ (that is, merely float- ing and cooling down in the sea). after a ten-minute drive from the boatyards past TTSA, the army base, museum and conference centre, you take the Macqueripe Post Road on your left. However, in this case you are coming from the direction of Port of Spain. You will find the junction where the Western Main Road becomes a dual carriageway for a couple of hundred yards, and this is where you take the Macqueripe Post Road on your right. It leads through some pretty countryside, and if you want to enjoy some peace and quiet, you should definitely pull onto the right shoulder at the gate to Chaguaramas National Park, and go for a stroll into the famous Bamboo Cathedral. Bring your camera. Hi-Lo supermarket at West Mall, as it is now shopping time. Be sure to have brought a cooler, as we haven’t finished our list with recommendations for sightseeing yet! lovely, quiet beaches. Since you won’t have time to visit them all, you will have to make a choice. Las Cuevas is a good one as it is quite pretty. who knows, locals may invite you for a game of cricket or basketball on the sand. who knows, locals may invite you for a game of cricket Continue to Maracas Bay, where you find the biggest, busiest and most splendid beachContinue to Maracas Bay, where you find the biggest, busiest specialty, the beach is dottedon Trinidad’s north coast. As bake ’n shark is Maracas’ lunch. We find Richard’swith booths where you can have your late but unforgettable directly located on the beach. has the best dishes, but offers a lesser view as it is not up after every curve and you may be tempted to pay a quick visit to the Asa Wright up after every curve and you may be tempted to pay deteriorates a bit, but noth- Nature Centre on the way. Just past Asa Wright the road ing to scare you; the road to the NP gas plant is worse. scenery, but note that this road is leading into a forest. This means that there are scenery, but note that this road is leading into a forest. petrol (and something in your few spots for pit stops so be sure you have enough Maracas well past noon). stomach, as lunch will have to wait until you arrive in a left turn onto the long and winding Arima-Blanchisseuse Road. Enjoy the lush winding Arima-Blanchisseuse Road. Enjoy the lush a left turn onto the long and the gas job done, wouldn’t it be a great idea to see something of the countryside while be a great idea to see something of the countryside while the gas job done, wouldn’t it the right lane as soon as you can, and do a U-turn at you’re at it? Move over to the this is not allowed but it actually is). Then con- traffic lights (you would presume of Arima via the Eastern Main Road. tinue east in the direction can’t handle exotic valves; for those you will have to go to San Fernando.) can’t handle exotic valves; bermudas, sleeveless shirts (men) and sandals are not allowed, However, in Trinidad are not allowed, However, shirts (men) and sandals bermudas, sleeveless things done as long as your attitude is one of extreme you get the most unlikely the were fully “European” dressed in shorts and tops, politeness, so although we gas We handed over our two empty ten-pound guards allowed us on the premises. 20 as they sell at Budget Marine with type 1 valves) and bottles (standard US, such pay at TT$32.50, which is 20 percent of the price you minutes later both were filled hours: Monday to Friday 8:00 in Chaguaramas. Opening left lane and take the roundabout for three quarters. Then exit onto the fly-over, quarters. Then exit onto take the roundabout for three left lane and Choose the Churchill-Roosevelt Highway. to the other side of the which takes you dirt road on to miss the small potholed slowly as you don’t want left lane and drive heads into some saying WASA. This road NP, marked with a sign your left just before leading to a garbage dump, but is actually terrain looking like kind of undeveloped gate. Continue to the NatPet the NP gas company. — A stop at laid-back Maracas Beach will help dissipate any lingering boatyard blues A stop at laid-back Maracas Beach will help dissipate OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 • Refrigeration • MachineShop • Woodwork • Electrical andRepairs • DieselEngineInstallation • Pipe Works andPaint Work • Sandblasting • Steel Work (Crop&Renew) SERVICES AVAILABLE & DRY DOCK SHIP REPAIR Drydock Draft 18ftDepthDrydock Slipway GuideJetty, St. Vincent Street Drydock Length300ft.Drydock the first timesoyour the first ship [email protected] to get the job done right to getthejobdoneright www.maritimepreservation.net Drydock Beam55ft.Drydock as quickly aspossible! Phone: (868)6252927/2962 Wetdock Pier250ft. Slipway 1800 Tons can getback towork Our commitment is Our commitmentis Trinidad & Trinidad Tobago, WI Fax: (868)6273056 Port ofSpain, www.traveldudes.org/travel-tips/guidelines-viewing-sea-turtles/9470. photos anduseflashlightsduringtheperiod theturtleisactuallyinheregg-laying“trance”.Seemoregoodtipsat tion grouporguide:theywillbestknow how tospottheturtlesandpreventstressthemoncefound.Onlytake and allowedtheturtletocompleteprocessesmakeherwayslowlyback tothesea. We weremakingtoomuchnoiseforherlikingandwecouldseeshewasunhappy withus,soweallcalmeddown were nolongerabletotakepicturesandwatchedtheturtlefillholethen starttodisruptthesandaround. raphy ofwhatwas—forme,nodoubtaonceinlifetimeopportunity.Once thelayingprocessfinished,we turtle tobesatisfied,shestartedlaying,givingusthefantasticopportunityofallowing lightstoshineandphotog- were notneededtohelpseeherprogressindiggingthehole.Afterpatientlywaiting foroverhalfanhourthe to findanotherwhowasjustbeginningdigherownhole.Thefullmoonmadefor excellentviewingandredlights was ofaveragesize.Welefther,onlyhavingtowalkafurthercouplehundred metresdownthefive-milebeach the processoflayinghereggs.Iwasshockedatsizeshehadgrowntoandevenmoresurprisedwhentold est turtlesintheworldoftenweighing1,500pounds.Theverylargestweighasmuch2,000 on averagegrowstosixfeetinlengthandcanswimatspeedsaveragingmilesanhour.Leatherbacksarethelarg- ibility andshapethatissimilartothehullofamotorboat,givingbetterhydrodynamics.Amatureleatherbackturtle turtle, andtheycanstayunderwaterforanincredible85minutes.Theabilitytodothiscomesfromtheirshell’sflex- fused withtheirstapledietofjellyfish. enemy, humans,throughfishingnetsandlines,gettinghitbyboatseatingwasteplasticbagshavingbeencon- of theeggslaidbyfemalewillreachmaturity.Predatorscomeinformbirds,reptiles,fishandtheirmain hard forpredatorstodetect.Notmanyleatherbackturtlesevermakeitadulthoodandisestimatedthatonlyone nest andcompactingtheholeforprotection,finallydisturbingalargeareaofsandaroundnest,makingit two andahalfhourstocomplete.Theprocedureconsistsofdiggingthree-foothole,laying80120eggs,fillingthe lay theireggs,whichisanocturnalprocessthattakesupto turtles maketheirwayontothebeachfivetoseventimes late theirbodytemperaturethroughmetabolicprocesses.The in suchcontrastingwatersisthroughtheircapacitytoregu- swimming fromasfarnorthCanada.Theirabilitytoswim years andreturntothesamebeachtheyhatchedfromafter knowledge ofthelocalareamadelongdriveinterestingandenjoyable.Havingsampledsomecuisine Matura ontheeasternpartofTrinidadformagicalexperienceseeingleatherbackturtleslayingtheireggs. in May,IjumpedattheopportunitytojoinJesseJamesofMembersOnlyMaxiTaxiServiceandtakeatrip Thailand. Beingfeetawayfromsuchamagnificentcreaturehadmadevividimpression,sowhilevisitingTrinidad TURTLE TRIPINTRINIDAD turtle anduselightswhensheisinheregg-layingtrance Above: Theauthorposingwithturtle.Onlytouchasea My firstsightingofaturtlewasliterally30secondsafterwalkingontothebeach.Alargefemalealreadyin Leatherback turtlesdivetoescapepredatorsandhavebeenrecordedup4,200feetdeep,deeperthananyother Female leatherbackturtlestypicallylayeggseverythree The momentIwaspickedupinChaguaramasbyJessethatevening,knewgoodhands.Hisimpressive The firsttimeIeverencounteredawildseaturtlewasin2010whiledivingnearKhoPhiDon,Phuket, Right: Layingeggs.She’llcoverthemwithsand and thendisguisethespot ALL ASHORE… by BenFarnham could weighclosetoaton Hard toimaginethatonedaythisturtle remember formanyyearstocome. This wasaremarkableexperienceandnightthatIwill to getbackonthebusforrideChaguaramas. able toswimforthreedayswithoutstoppingfeed. same nestingsiteinyearstocome.Theyoungarethen sea ontheirownhelpsthemmemoriseandreturntothe in theirendeavour,asabilitytomakewaythe way intothesea.Itisimportantthattheyarenotassisted climb thethreefeetuptosurfaceandthenmaketheir had beenrecoveredearlierthatday.Theyounghaveto back alongthebeachtobegreetedbyfourhatchlingsthat Go turtlewatchingwitharecommended localconserva- Once wehadourfillof“baby”pictures,itwastime After watchingthelong,beautifulprocesswewalked was excellent: passed onthroughoutthetour on toMatura. that hadbeendemolisheditwas where wehadaheartymeal.Once food atarestaurantinValencia little laterintheformofChinese teeth into.Themainmealcamea the texturealittleeasiertogetmy and theflavourwasplentiful ever, weremuchmoretomyliking and thebarbecuedpigtails,how- everyday diet.Chickengizzards whether Iwillbeaddingittomy customed toandIamunsure ture wassomethingIunac- lovely flavour,however,thetex- pig tail.Thechickenfeethada zards andthefamousbarbecued chicken feetsoup,giz- en-route fordelightssuchas that littlebitfurtherandstopped keen toexpandmyexperience throughout mystay,Jessewas The informationthatwas OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 little ofGuatemala’shistory.LearnsomeSpanishaswell. into theunknown. thing ofanadventurerandgetyourselfgoing.Enter that actuallyhaveflavor.Youjustneedtobesome- fed beefandchicken,organicfruitvegetables will alsoappreciatetheprices,food,andpeople. Dulce, toGuatemala. you cannotgowrongifdecidetocomeRio powerful yethumbleculturesandtheirwisdom:well, pen tobeopenlearningaboutoneofthemost beyond thenormalcruisingenvironment,ifyouhap- recent cycle. year cycles.Wearenowattheendofmost been presentonthisplanetforatleastfive52,000- 2012 alreadyknowthatTheMayabelievetheyhave spiritual guideshavetosayregardingthisyearof repeat whatDonCirilioandotherGuatemalan Happening Now Maya, knownasLaRutaTheMayanRoute. quickly navigatetothefamedYucatanofMexico. Belize’s Reefandislandsthroughwhichonecan equidistant betweenHonduras’BayIslandsand Dulce anditsentranceportofLivingstonliealmost the Caribbean.

Rodney Bay,St.Lucia S If you do decide to come, please take the time to read a If youdodecidetocome,pleasetakethetimereada Slip feesareincrediblylow.Itiseasytofindrange Besides, itissweetwaterandyourboatwillloveit.You If youareinterestedinanexperiencethatgoes Those ofyouwhohaveheardDrunvaloMelchizedek The MayaofEternalTimeandWhat’s Rio Dulceissiteddirectlyontheancientpathof Very welllocatedandsafefromhurricanes,Rio

DESTINATIONS aand Guatemala’s ment, remaining a little-known cruising area in ment, remainingalittle-knowncruisingareain beneficial reasons,muchcommercialdevelop- escaped, formysteriousandpossiblyquite pectacularly beautiful,theSweetRiverhas oof EternalTime n f Tortugal marinaisoneofmanysmall,yacht-friendlyfacilitiesontheriver d

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e-mail:[email protected] ALL PHOTOS STEVE JOST / WWW.STEVEJOSTPHOTOGRAPHY.COM / JOST STEVE PHOTOS ALL cha friendly CustomsandImmigrationofficialswill than US$50to$75.00 dure (seephotoonpage26)andshouldnotcostmore and verywillingtohelp.Itisnotacomplicatedproce- erboat waitingnearbywillbehappytohearthisnews for help:“Necessitaayudaparacruzar”.Asmallpow- help crossingthebar,thisistimeyouwouldask by yourvessel’snameonVHFchannel68.Ifyouneed a linetoyourmastandguideyouoverthesoftsand. to enlistthehelpofasmallpowerboatthatwillattach you aredrawingmorethansevenfeet,mayhave of lessthansevenfeet,thereshouldbenoproblem.If toward Livingston,Guatemala.Forvesselswithadraft —Continuedonnextpage worth attending. music andonedayayearistheGarifunaFestival,well Veliz, whospeaksEnglishandwillhandle yellow building,thatiswhereyouwillfindRaul from themaindock/roadintotown.Youwillseea ate leftafterpassingthebasketballcourtvisible ports stamped.Takethefirstroadtoyourimmedi- up yourcompletedpermitsandtohavepass- permission todinghyintotown(Livingston)pick three months,then12months).Youwillbegiven processing visaandnavigationpermits(initially Far fromthesea,ahurricanehaven Once anchoredandwithyourQflagup,very You willbegincalling“CapitandelPuerto”followed You willsoonbeheadedacrossAmatiqueBay Once intheNeighborhood overtoyourvesselgreetyouandassistin . are wellknownfortheir St. Vincent.Garifunapeople Eastern Caribbeanislandof culture removedfromthe of MayaandGarifunafolk,a Livingston isacombination The littlecommunityof port stampedatImmigration. up thehilltohaveyourpass- mercial, asyoubegintowalk tiny shops,nothingtoocom- good manyrestaurantsand commerce. Youwillseea ones primarilyinvolvedin industrious Mayaarethe the Kek’chi. Ac Tenamit,acooperativeof they arepartoftheproject which Iliketosupportas companion handicraftstore Mama, arestaurantandits and tothesideofBuga handicraft shopjustbehind Raul, checkouttheverynice your boat’svisa. In Livingstontheever- Across thestreetfrom Houseware &Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes Antifouling Paint lan- OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 . 2 12.1212 202012201220122012 2012. 2012. d ed ervede servedservedservedservedserveds e r sre hts rehts rehts rehhts rehts rehts g rig ll rigll rigll riglll rigll rll r onononon. A A A ion. Aion. Aion. Aion. Aion. Aion. Aion. A t porat rporatrporatrporatrporatrporporatrporatrporatrp oo Co an ran Coran Coran Cran Coran Coran Coranran Co Co Lake Izabal is just around the cor- Lake Izabal is Buying Groceries In Fronteras, buying organically Medical Care is Wonderful and Medical and other basic living costs t atamatam CatamaCatamaCatamaCatamaCatamaCatamaCatamaCatamaCatamCataC ner and just ahead from Castillo San ner and just freshwater lake Felipe. This enormous streams cas- is fed by multitudinous of cading from the highlands Polochic. Guatemala, most notably the the Rio This abundant water keeps Izabal Dulce fresh and clean. In Lake anchor at Finca Paraiso (you can and at here; watch out for the rocks) by Boqueron Canyon (not accessible mysterious water) you can explore miles caves that stretch for unknown cliffs and with intermittent waterfalls, Or, take a canyons, all underground. sauna behind a hot waterfall. free-rangegrown fruits, vegetables, list.chickens and beef is on everyone’s Saturday.Best days are Tuesday and mar- There is a fresh fish and shrimp Casaket. Once or twice a week, to yourGuatemala comes by lancha boat or to your marina’s landing selling milk products, cheeses, pork chops, eggs and other good things. Inexpensive are a fraction of the cost in other countries. Doctors are well educated, usually in more than one country and hemisphere. —Continued on next page g i aig raig Load with options; Premium high-definition Prospec marine sound system, LED interior courtesy deck light and much more new equipment for 2013. Craig CraigCraig CraigCraigCraig CraigCraigCraig S Below: Yachts motoring up the ‘Sweet River’ see Castillo San Felipe outlined on the end of the end of the Felipe outlined on the see Castillo San 15th century. which it was built in the peninsula on restored to fort has been meticulously This Spanish To the in a very picturesque setting. its former glory facility is the well-known haul-out right of San Felipe of Abel’s. AT OO T B ST E SINCE 1990 WORLD’S FINEST Straight ahead are the bedraggled remains of Bird Under the bridge, about Marina prices vary Castillo San Felipe and Straight ahead you will To starboard you will see the slightly set back from you will see the slightly set To starboard marinas. Island and the magnificent span of the bridge crossing the Rio Dulce. If you cross under that bridge you will be upriver from the village and the more commercial parts of Rio Dulce. a half-mile ahead at one o’clock, lies Tortugal (res- taurant, hotel, marina). Across the way from Tortugal is Capt. John’s Marina. Directly behind the bank of trees where Captain John’s is located is Joya del Rio. The entrance to Joya del Rio is through the small cut just beyond Captain John’s. depending on services. Most are in the range of US$150 (for no service) to $300 (for full service) a month. Multihull rates are a bit higher. Potable water is usually included. Lake Izabal notable marina in the same bay, located on the west- in the same bay, located notable marina Marine (restaurant). ern curve, is Mar (hotel, Fronteras, Rio Dulce, and Bruno’s view village of that bay are marina). Directly across restaurant and other small marina) and a few Tijax (hotel, restaurant, COMPACT POWER BOATS A Mayan fisherman casts his net Seven Exciting Models! – Including Gas & Electric We Ship Anywhere – Fully Assembled Discounts for Resorts & Tour/Rental Companies XXXDSBJHDBUDPN Dealer Inquiries Welcome. CALL TODAY 407-290-8778 4BGFt2VJFUt$PNGPSUBCMFt%SZ3JEF n n n Continued from previous page Continued from Past Monkey Bay and a little farther along (port side) Marinas To starboard and in order of appearance are Mango, After spending the night or nights at Texan Bay, As you enter into the Golfete there’s a little island This location of the first Tarzan movie ever filmed Livingston is not the most peaceful place to spend not the most peaceful place Livingston is you will see a larger bay containing Nana Juana (res- taurant, hotel) to the far left. Next to Nana Juana is the marina and haul-out facility of Ram Marine. Another Mario’s (restaurant) and Catamaran (hotel, restau- rant). To port is Monkey Bay, with Ludwin’s small marina to the left of Monkey Bay. after crossing the Golfete, the channel once again nar- rows and the more populated as well as commercial aspects of Rio Dulce begin to appear. ahead, the Island of the Tiger. You can go between that ahead, the Island of the Tiger. You can go between that island and shore to port. There’s a little sign at the end of a bank of trees announcing the entrance into Texan Bay. Texan Bay is a nice anchoring spot in the area. You will meet other cruisers; there is a restaurant. leads into a large lake called the Golfete where you will leads into a large lake called the Golfete where you will find a good place in one of the bays to port where you can anchor your first night of this new adventure. You have come about six miles from Livingston to the Golfete. It depends on how fast your boat goes, and the current will be against you, but it should not take more than two hours motoring. rare places which evoke the primeval: familiar yet rare places which evoke the primeval: familiar yet unknown, time before time, lush green water, lime- stone cliffs, lianas, occasional native huts of interwo- ven cane and thatch, peacefulness, tranquility. the night. I’d advise you to be on your way upriver into you to be on your way the night. I’d advise of the Rio great (but not long) Canyon and through the must be of the Rio Dulce surely Dulce. The Canyon one of those places on earth — one of the beautiful — OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 of negativeoccurrences. positive visionofwhoweareandopenthepossibility not appreciateeither.Sometimeswedestroyany smoking folks.Mostnativefolkareverycleananddo any wayrespectful.Evenworseareinebriatedor upon arrivalwithoutevensayinghelloorbeingin would weartochurch(andthenchangeintouniforms). this greatcountrysometimesweardressesthatone When comingandgoingtowork,thenativewomenof while we’rehere. So, weshouldallworkonourintuitionandkindness traced backtolackofintuitionandinabilitydiscern. ally uninvitedguests.Misunderstandingscanoftenbe the countryanditspeople.Rememberthatweareusu- includes respecting(notmakingfunofordisparaging) anywhere istobegenuineandhumble.That feel andbetreated. amazed atthedifferenceinwayyouwillbeginto a lookaround;askhowthingsaregoing.Youwillbe and meettheperson;letthemseewhoyouare.Take unknown personcometoyourboat.Gotheshop just pickuptheradioandbegindemandingthatsome need toknowledgeable,caringandappreciative.Don’t tial consumer,weneedtobeanddothesame.We care andknowwhattheyaredoing.Ifweapoten- vices justastheydoeverywhere,becausetruly carpeting…. Mostfolkshereprovidereallygoodser- nas, refrigeration,restaurants,sails,upholsteryand generator repair,groceries,haul-out,hullmari- prices. Airconditioning,canvas,dieselengineand Guatemala Cityfacility. Morales, butIwouldprobablychoosetogoa from RioDulce.Thereisafairlynewhospitalin dontist practicesinMorales,about45minutesaway topic.) Anexcellentinternalspecialistaswellendo- serious healthissues!(Icouldgoonandaboutthis States. IhopethatwillbeinGuatemalaifhaveany here, orsoIhaveexperienced,thanitwouldbeinthe pharmacist rightinFronteras,RioDulce. have hadminorproblems,Iusuallygotomyfavorite has recentlybeenrecognizedinternationally.WhenI trol variousdisordersincludingParkinson’sdisease Guatemalan physicianusingstemcelltherapytocon- of medicaltreatmentavailableinGuatemalaCity.A medical, dental,plasticsurgery,andeveryotherkind years aheadofUSAapprovals.Thereiswonderful — Sometime Iseevisitorsassumingterritorialrights The RuleinGuatemalais:Dressandactwithrespect. I thinkthebestdeterrenttohavingsecurityproblems Security Matters Rio Dulceoffersfantasticservicesatreasonable Services AvailableinRioDulce With medicalproblems,lifeismuchmoresimple Pharmaceutical availabilityisoftenmonthsifnot Continued frompreviouspage Below:MayanvendorsinthemarketatFronteras at Livingstonwiththeaidofasmallpowerboat Above: PhotographerSteveJost’s have everheardaboutRioDulcehadextenuatingcir- ends andstoriesabound.VirtuallyeveryhorrorstoryI watch, fancytummypack(notreturned). a hillsideoutsideofAntiguawithfriendfancy into aditchinGuatemalaCity(returned).Or,goingup Fronteras (returned).Orawalletthatfelloutofmylap thing (passports,money,creditcards)onthestreetin security, whichincludeleavingabackpackwithevery- The RioDulceisaromantickindofplaceandleg- I couldtellyouaboutmypersonalexperienceswith Viva crossingthebar Rio Dulce,www.tortugal.com. space, andthatofeternity. Maya andwearehereasapartoftheirenergy perfect place,atthetime.Itistimeof cannot begintotellyouthejoysofbeinghere.Itis revered Elders. with spiritualguideswhoareourrespectedand Maya andofferopportunitiestoexperiencecontact Some ofthemarinashaveinformationabout tive, mymother. occasionally visitingtheStatestoseemyfavoriterela- Caribbean IhavelivedanenchantedlifeinRioDulce, ever since. since. Thingshavebeenprettywellinorderandquiet marina areaofRioDulcehasbeenpatrolledever the magicalstepsofhiringNavytopatrol,and in RioDulce,alongwithgovernmentassistance,took with theboatandanowneramachete. agent. Theotherinvolvedintruderswellacquainted cides. OneinvolvedapersonbelievedtobeDEA ly, therearefolkswhothinktheyknowwhy)homi- fresh, resellerseverywherewillbegrateful. 15-horsepower Yamahaandkeepitlookingfactory What everycruisershouldknowis:Ifyoupurchasea rash ofstolenoutboardmotorstookplaceabout2004. and certainlynotasdangerousVenezuela.Thelast involve ourresponsibility,partintheplay. Why? Well,maybethatothersideofthestorywould other sideofthestoryisrarelyifevercommunicated. cumstances called“TheOtherSideoftheStory”.The Daphne BeckeristheownerofTortugalmarinaon I inviteyoutocomeRioDulce,Guatemala. Rio DulceISLaRutaMaya,orTheMayanRoute. Since returningfromthecruisingwatersof In Summary In 2004,ownersofsomethemajorestablishments There weretwopubliclyunsolved(however,private- Rio DulceisnotanymoredangerousthanTrinidad OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27

“Despite a friend reporting he had been told that the Nevis moorings have been told that the Nevis moorings reporting he had been “Despite a friend to municipalities have been empowered with the right Parks, port authorities and hold your breath) you need to be very careful. Even Until that happens (don’t private moorings. These are common in the Among the least safe are unauthorized even a warning about them These private moorings have no legal status; there is and while some are Moorings are rapidly proliferating in the Eastern Caribbean, from a cruising yachtsman: from a cruising last week and there for two nights this am sure they have not! I was maintained I at the top of that was safe. The thimbles moorings before I found one had to try five the metal just worn and when they break are rusted and significantly the rope risers I cannot was almost pulled through. the spliced eye. Also one swivel cuts through as visibility was not good. A local yachtsman con- comment on the bottom ends, the despite spare equipment being stockpiled on firmed they are not maintained, went ‘walkabout’ around New Year time.” island. One yacht apparently and need legislation that makes them take responsibility make us take moorings. We fail to maintain their equipment. have insurance when they you cannot assume they will be safe. In many cases though moorings are “official” them yourself: check to see that the ropes and chain it is not hard to snorkel on shackle ties are in place. This is hard to do when they are not worn and that the St. Lucia’s SMMA. Happily this is a park that does regu- are deep, as is the case in the came about because of some bad incidents in lar maintenance, though that early days. parks, where locals view moorings as a kind of per- Grenadines outside the marine income. While a few mooring providers, like Sam Taxi sonal parking meter to gather too seem to do a good job with maintenance, all and Charlie Tango in St. Vincent, about the safety of their mooring, and why should they? many do not appear to care not usually does not get a receipt, and often does The person picking up the mooring and mooring. These moorings are often poorly designed even know who owns the not trust any of them without constructed, as well as lacking maintenance. I would a single shackle has been a very close underwater inspection. In many cases not used, lines can often catch wired, so they can fall apart. Where concrete blocks are block or the means of attach- on the block and chafe right through. The size of the ment is frequently inadequate. one if you like; the owner in the Bequia Customs office. You can anchor right beside make you move, though some has absolutely no rights over the seabed and cannot private moorings and you are likely to act like jerks about it. If you take one of these must move; such moorings end up too close to a boat that is already anchored, you it is imperative to dive carry no rights. If you decide to take one of these moorings, the man who took your money on it. However, if you do that, and find it is no good, will probably be long gone. put down a mooring, whether good, too many are . No one should be allowed to that it is properly designed for optional hire or compulsory use, unless they can show Someone I know who laid and being adequately maintained. We are far from that. of them at the behest of a moorings for a marine park recently inspected a couple there were deficiencies. Will charter company. They had not been maintained and cable? your yacht give the last tug that breaks the mooring’s

DECK VIEW FROM TI KANOT BY CHRIS DOYLE FROM TI KANOT DECK VIEW

GONE WILD GONE MOORINGS MOORINGS Too Often a Dangerous Place in a Safe Harbor Too Often a Dangerous Port authority moorings may be no better. The following is from an e-mail I received What about the fastest-growing sector, which includes marine park, port authority Charter companies also care, as their own boats use the moorings. If you rent a So, which moorings can you trust? The answer to that question is “how much skin Who are the people putting down moorings? What is it with Caribbean moorings Laying and maintaining a mooring so that it holds a boat safely in severe weather Laying and maintaining a mooring so that it holds a boat Unfortunately too little consideration is given to the safety of the yachts using is given to the safety of the yachts using Unfortunately too little consideration In some cases you have no choice but to take a mooring. The ostensible reason for choice but to take a mooring. The ostensible reason for In some cases you have no Each year more and more rental moorings are laid in the Eastern Caribbean. Even moorings are laid in the Eastern Caribbean. Even Each year more and more rental and town moorings? We are now entering more murky territory. Institutions such as the European Union funded many of these moorings, so they generally hire profes- sionals to put down their moorings, which are then safe for the first year or so. Unfortunately, no Caribbean marine park or port authority manager has ever been fired because of a badly maintained mooring breaking, nor have they yet been suc- cessfully sued. As a consequence many do no maintenance till a mooring breaks, very likely with someone’s yacht on it. A beautiful classic yacht was completely destroyed some years ago in Statia when the mooring broke, and it was not even in a bad swell. I saw underwater photos of the remaining park moorings after the inci- dent that showed a very poor level of maintenance. charter company mooring you can be pretty sure you will stay put. There is also the statistical factor — their boats are on the moorings 90 percent of the time, so the chances are if a mooring does give, it will be one of their boats that drift away. I feel confident renting one of these moorings, as long as the charter company is fairly large with some years of experience. In addition, one or two private companies and individuals maintain reliable moorings, including Sea Pony in Antigua. does the owner have in the game?” At the top end, marina owners, and somewhere like Mustique, have reputations to maintain, and feel at least somewhat vulnerable to lawsuits, so their moorings are properly maintained. Mustique has particular challenges with constant movement and mooring chain deteriorating really fast. Their moorings manager, Berris Little, is always out there, constantly renewing worn parts. Down in Grenada, Underwater Solutions, the commercial diving company, spends most of its working hours placing and maintaining moorings for places like Port Louis, Le Phare Bleu and Prickly Bay Marina. The same will be true of most marina-owned moorings in the Eastern Caribbean, so I have plenty of confidence to take one of the moorings inside the lagoon in Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, or one of the marina moorings inside Marigot Bay. that they so often drift away, sometimes taking someone’s dream boat with them? The answers I give to these questions refer to the Windward and Leeward Islands. conditions is not rocket science. I grew up on the shore of a huge estuary in the UK conditions is not rocket science. I grew up on the shore and inspected. I do not with hundreds of moorings. Every year they were pulled In fact, one once saved remember any incident of a mooring breaking or dragging. Archer; I was young, inexperi- my boat. My first cruising boat was a heavy old Colin deteriorated to a Force enced, and anchored way ahead of the moorings. Conditions in the field of neatly moored 10 gale. By the time I noticed I was dragging, I was the boat was 11 tons and the yachts. My engine would not start, and seeing that helped. Luckily my anchor engine was four-horsepower I doubt it would have I was neatly tethered with my snagged on a mooring line and slid up the mooring till The properly laid and well- anchor hooked around the bow of a small cruising boat. off. maintained mooring held both of us till I could get a tow these moorings. You cannot automatically consider a Caribbean mooring to be safe. automatically consider a Caribbean mooring to be safe. these moorings. You cannot sometimes involving serious damage. In the photo, Many accidents have happened, else However, I picked up a nearby mooring so no one my boat is safely at anchor. as I into me. It came in very easily — and fell to bits would pick it up and swing not unwired shackle was probably the culprit. This is raised it up. It looks like an mooring buoys drifting out unusual; one day as I sailed into Bequia I passed three of Admiralty Bay. Luckily none had yachts on them. moorings is to protect marine life; in a few cases they may indeed help the environ- moorings is to protect marine of officials exerting control over their waters and trying ment. More often it is a way to raise revenue. as I write, thousands of Euros have been given to the Martinique town of Anse d’Arlet have been given to the Martinique town of Anse d’Arlet as I write, thousands of Euros the recent years we have seen moorings laid in Nevis, to put in mooring fields. In and Grenada. Saintes, Sandy Island (Carriacou) OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 [email protected] www.sunsail.com Tel: 17844584308 Fax: 1784 4568928 PO Box 133, BlueLagoon, St. Vincent, West Indies Sunsail

If youchoosetostopthere,thedistanceisreduced90nauticalmiles. go directassumesyoudonotwanttostopinMarinaHemingway,justwestofHavana. cussed. ThewestendofCubaisapproximately225nauticalmilesfromKeyWest.To pushed bythetrades! I findthetradewinds.ImaginebroadreachingintoCaribbeanonaporttack, tradewind conditions.ThefarthersouthIdepartfrominNorthAmerica,thequicker Windward Passage)issouthbysoutheast.Inotherwords,abroadreachinnormal Hilton Head,SouthCarolina,whichisapproximately800nauticalmilesfromthe ther south(Iliketodepartfrom Chesapeake orfrompointsfar- course fromthemouthof than distanceisthecourse.The the biggestadvantagesother 1,000 nauticalmiles,butoneof to theWindwardPassageisabout from themouthofChesapeake very muchreduced.Thedistance your timeintheAtlanticOceanis trying togoeastandalsobecause much easierbecauseyouarenot Passage fromNorthAmericais Haiti. TogettotheWindward Passage, betweenCubaand Passage the above. closer, safer,mucheasier,orallof es” totheCaribbeanSeathatare do not!Thereareother“entranc- to theCaribbean?Thetruthis,we sailors havetogosofareastget boat totheeast. work hardtogetthecruising one thingincommon.Theyboth and theharbor-hopstrategyhave that boththeoffshorestrategy Look atthemapandconsider is seismicallyactive. the PuertoRicanTrench,which and Mr.Hydepersonalitydueto Passage, whichhasaDr.Jekyll The “reward”thatyougetattheendofbashingistohavecrossMona include astrongdoseof“bashingintoeasterlywindsandseas”dayinout. knows sowell.Otherwise,whiletherouteavoidslongoffshorepassages,itdoes works well—providedthatyoucanunderstandandreplicatethevoyageBruce lined inBruceVanSant’sclassicwork Tortola, viatheMonaPassageatwestendofPuertoRico.Thestrategyasout- cruisers “harborhoptheThornlessPath”allwayto“theCaribbean”,i.e. favorite saint. ing abouttheamountofoffshoreworktheywillundertake.Otherspraytotheir the rallyitsbestpossibleconditions.Manyparticipantspartyheartytoavoidthink- Caribbean.” Inordertomakethattrip,expertsreviewweatherprognosticsgive miles southeasttoarriveinTortola,BVI.Theydoitbecausetheywant“gothe every fallandtravelsover1,250nautical from themouthofChesapeakeBay Antilles. TheCaribbean1500rallydeparts that theyaregoingeasttotheLesser from NorthAmerica,whattheymeanis they are“goingsouthtotheCaribbean” rarely question,ifever,whyitisso. and wecontinuetodoitthatway Holy Grail.Wedosomethingacertainway For cruisingsailorsitmightevenbethe There isyetanotherentrancetotheCaribbean—onethatrarely,ifever,dis- Back DoorTwo:TheWestEndofCuba One canenterviatheWindward Back DoorOne:TheWindward But whydoNorthAmerican Are theresafealternatives? To avoidtherigorsofanoffshoretripthisdistanceinAtlanticOcean,other When manycruisingsailorssaythat Tradition isaninterestingphenomenon. Marine

Centre

The Gentleman’sGuidetoPassagesSouth The Caribbean’s

Come rediscover themagicofSaint Vincent… Back Doors …your onestopmarine centre intheGrenadines CARIBBEAN VOYAGING * * * * * Fuel Dock A/C Power 110/220 Free WiFi Mini Market Marina Full Service by FrankVirgintino —Continuedonnextpage one cansailonaporttackheadingeast. cooler andthusheavier.Sometimesthekatabaticwindsareeighttotenknots winds arethat“slide”downthemountainsidesatnightbecauseairis count onthekatabaticwindstohalttradewindsaftersunsets.Katabatic ingly highduringtheday,andifyoustaywithinfivemilesofshoreline,can Rico allhavehighmountainranges.Thismeansthatifthetradewindsarenotexceed- teristics. Cuba,Jamaica,Hispaniola(HaitiandtheDominicanRepublic)Puerto Caribbean. Thatistrue.However,theGreaterAntilleshavesomeinterestingcharac- we stillhavetocopewithadversewindandcurrentgettheEastern Cuba providedyoumaintainadistanceof12milesoffshore. stop inCuba.However,roundingCubaatitswestendisnotequivalenttoentering is agoodprovisioningstop.IfyouareanAmerican-flaggedboat,maynotwantto south andwest. where youcanpickupacounter-currentcloseintoshore.Thesets keep thecurrentadverseataboutoneknot,orheadfornorthwestcoastofCuba experience, Iagree.OnecaneithercruiseinthedirectionofDryTortugas,whichwill ways accordingto ways tocopeandthiscaseisnoexception.Thecurrentcanbehandledinoneoftwo current, canrunatspeedsof2.5knotstothenorth—againstyou.Therearealways Assuming thatweentertheCaribbeanSeathrougheitheroneofits“backdoors,” Making YourEastingintheCaribbean Key Westisanexcellentjumpingoffpoint;ithasagreatdealtoseeandenjoy * * * * * Beach Bar Sail Loft/Canvas Dive Centre Car Rental Showers World CruisingRoutes

Shop byJimmyCornellandfrommypersonal Stream andacontinuationoftheCaribbean Florida current,whichispartoftheGulf one knot.AtthewestcoastofCuba, Caribbean Searunswestandaverages ter adversecurrent.Thecurrentinthe and eastfromNorthAmericamustencoun- Current adversely,andallvoyagessouth shore routefacestheNorthEquatorial to avoidthecurrentonanyroute:off- facing anadversecurrent.Thereisnoway this entryintotheCaribbeanaskabout Many cruisersIhavespokenwithabout * * * * * Mooring Balls Laundry Book Exchange Prince &QueensBoutique Black Pearl Restaurant OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29

PROBERTENCYCLOPEDIA.COM .com Back Issues Archive at www.caribbeancompass.com/backissues.html. Back Issues Sailors coming from the east coast of North America often overlook the option Sailors coming from the east coast of North America often cruising the Greater of entering the Caribbean Sea at either end of Cuba and Antilles en route to the eastern island chain Cuba Ross-Thomson, May 2007 “Cuban Cruising” by Ruth Price, March and April 2008 “Southwest Cuba” by Christopher by Suzanne Austin, July and August 2009 “Western Cuba Cruising Update” Cayman Islands Virgintino, March 2011 “The Sister Islands” by Frank Jamaica Chetland, July 2007 “Jamaica ‘Respect!’” by Kathy Jamaica” by Phil Chapman, September 2008 “Don’t Worry, Be Happy in Hispaniola by Phil Chapman, June 2008 “Haiti: A Step Back in Time” Side of Hispaniola” by Frank Virgintino, May and “A Cruise Though the South Puerto Rico in Six Stops” by Michelle Fleming, May 2010 “South Coast of Puerto Rico If you’re considering entering or leaving the Caribbean by one of its “back the Caribbean by one of its entering or leaving If you’re considering Back Doors via Back Issues Doors via Back June 2012 doors”, the following short selection of articles about cruises and destinations about cruises and destinations short selection of articles doors”, the following in and much more, can be found might be of interest. They, along the way Compass’s The

Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre Yacht Barefoot one of the key strategies given is to use a strategies given is to use one of the key • Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop • Mechanical & Electrical Repairs • Vehicle Rentals • Raymarine Electronics • Ice & Water • Fibreglass Repairs • Island Tours Work • Refrigeration • Quiksilver Surf Wear • On-site Accommodation • Laundry • Showers • Wi-Fi / Internet Café • Restaurant & Bar • Diesel & Propane • Surftech Surf Shop • Book Exchange • Boutique • Moorings • Hotel Reservations • Air Travel PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies Free Cruising Guides Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238

BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS - ASA SAILING SCHOOL BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS Since 1984 Since

Continued from previous page Continued from Frank Virgintino is the author of All we need to do is give up the idea that our voyage to The Caribbean must make All we need to do is give up the idea that our voyage to What is the net result? The net result is that we cruise to the Lesser Antilles but What is the net result? The net result is that we cruise From Puerto Rico, a stone’s throw and we make the Virgin Islands and are at the From Puerto Rico, a stone’s throw and we make the Virgin An Abundance of Anchorages to the Caribbean. The dis- There is still another benefit of using the back doors Another benefit to making your easting now is that you are not in the Atlantic now is that you are not to making your easting Another benefit

[email protected] www.barefootyachts [email protected]

at www.freecruisingguide.com. first landfall in the Lesser Antilles. Once we do that, we break from what so many of us have done so unconsciously for so long. we get to transit and enjoy the Greater Antilles, which is also an integral part of the we get to transit and enjoy the Greater Antilles, which Lesser Antilles more safely as Caribbean, along the way. And we get to arrive in the well as more enjoyably. top of the Lesser Antilles chain, ready to cruise south. top of the Lesser Antilles chain, ready to cruise south. tance from the west end of Cuba to the east end of Puerto Rico is approximately tance from the west end of Cuba to the east end of numerous anchorages and 1,200 nautical miles. All along that distance there are east along the Cuban south harbors, literally one right after another. As you move are part of Grand Cayman. coast, you can stop and visit the Sister Islands, which of Jamaica to arrive at Port Jump off from Cuba and head for the northeast tip sail to the southwest corner of Antonio, a safe and delightful harbor. From Jamaica, along the south coast Haiti to Ile-à-Vache which is very safe and charming. Eastward can make all the way to Isla of Hispaniola and there are a dozen wonderful stops you (no need to transit the Mona Saona. From there, you cross over to Puerto Rico south coast with all the Passage — you are south of it) and follow Puerto Rico’s can visit the Spanish Virgin anchorages and harbors to its eastern end where you south coasts of the Greater Islands of Culebra and Vieques. A cruise along the Antilles is extraordinary! norther, just that you have to know the norther you are dealing with and that is a norther, just that you have to know the norther you very complicated subject indeed. Gentleman’s Guide to Passages South Gentleman’s Guide be counted on the tradewinds and can eastward, as northers stall “norther” to sail be very strong however, northers can I agree with the concept; to arrive regularly. at least for is best avoided if possible, the Atlantic Ocean in a norther and sailing in cannot sail a I am not saying that one like comfort and safety. those of us who Ocean. The Caribbean Sea is much more user friendly than the Atlantic and because user friendly than the Atlantic Sea is much more Ocean. The Caribbean In the book will not be on a lee shore. of the tradewinds, you of the direction — OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 talents willbeusefulfordamagecontrol. annoyances andmisunderstandings.Your verbal have apositiveoutcome. your energiesintostimulatingonboard projects to tions maymakeyourcourseadifficult one.Put this month,aspoorpropagationincommunica- take yourmindoffdifficulties. and shoalsofcommerce,romancewillsailinto 29th andwillhelpyouanalyzethesituation. Your giftofthegabwillgetafairbreezeafter voyage. You’llhavealotofenergybutnodirection. annoying detailstomakeyourexperiencearough you underfullsailthroughnextmonth. Creative windswillalsobepickingupandhave 5th tothe29th.Usethistimemakeheadway. a newloveinterestneartheendofmonth. ness orfinance.Youmaygetalee-boweffectfrom following sea,souseittomakeprogressinbusi- everyone elseislosingtheirminds. world sailby.Concentrateonthepositivewhile positive outcome. desk tofindacourseintofairweatherand to mutiny.You’llhaveputothersatthenav with oppositionandcriticism,whichcouldlead solutions. help younavigatetheseroughwatersandfind with fellowboaters.Yourcommunicationskillswill inventive coursethroughastormofdifferences rough weather. let pickinessinyourlovelifeblowyouoffinto cruising pals.Don’tletirritabilitysinkthefun. need tokeepfromsailingintosquallswithcrewor of afemale(whocouldevenbeyou). crew oryardworkersescalatewiththeinterference Plans couldgoontherocksandproblemswith boat businessthatwillculminateonthe29th. The seasofromancewillbechoppy,with endless Use youranalyticalskillstopickseabattles While you’refindingyourwaythroughthereefs Your lovelifemayblowhotandcoldwithmany Your verbalskillswillbeattheirpeakfromthe Your creativecoursewillhaveclearskiesanda Enjoy amonthofromanceandlettherest Your desiretohogthehelmoflifewillmeet This monthitwillbeachallengetofindclear Concentrate onaningeniouscourseanddon’t A romanticinterestwillbejustthefairwindyou There couldbemajorcreativedifferencesabout OCTOBER 2012 SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul)

parlumps marooned OLD BARBADOS But still, I’d like tohave thatbread andguava jelly tea! And thingsare really betterthanthey ever usedtobe… And perhaps I’mananachronism; itishard totell. My niecesandmy nephews are well, alldoingvery But nowadays, they thinkit’s bestifthey don’t ‘interfere’. Remember timeswhenneighboursshared thelaughterandtears? And whohastimetocook, whenthere’s adollartobemade? There seemstobeapanicthatthey willnotmake thegrade, For nowadays Idoubtyouth withoutKentucky! couldsurvive How Iloved thatBajancooking, lucky, andIfeel sovery And dinnertime, whensimplemealswere relished anddevoured. When we enjoyed arumandsodaatthecocktailhour, Or ifyour luckwasin, you mighthave Nana’s cake instead! With Nana’s guava jelly, putatopapenny bread, And theboys cameupfrom surfing, torenew theirenergy The days whenfour o’clockwould meanthatitwastimefor tea, The days whenlife wassimple, longbefore thetouristscame. I’ve alongingfor theolddays thatwillnever comeagain,

— NanHatch

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KARL WATSON COLLECTION WATSON KARL

[email protected] OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 3 Phase 100Amp, 50 Hz and ask for Tony! • 240V 50Amp • Big Blue Building Petite Martinique Petite Martinique 16-18 feet of water alongside Phone: (784) 530 9092 or 431 8418 Water & Dockage available. • St. Vincent & the Grenadines Suitable for Large Power Yachts Suitable for Large Power Unobstructed dock in calm water Unobstructed dock in Cheapest prices in the Grenadines Cheapest prices in the The best fuel dock in the Grenadines for: dock in the Grenadines The best fuel Bequia Marina, Port Elizabeth, Bequia, Contact: Glenn Clement or Reynold Belmar VHF 68 Look for the Open Monday to Saturday 8:00am - 4:00pm Open Monday to Saturday 8:00am FUEL • OIL • WATER • ICE • OIL • WATER FUEL Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 email: [email protected] Easily approached from Carriacou, Union I., Palm I. & PSV Easily approached from B & C FUELS ENTERPRISE B & C BEQUIA MARINA Electric: 110V 30Amp

by Lee Kessell CRUISING KIDS’ CORNER CRUISING

Mistress Aliot’s Mistress Aliot’s

THE END From that day on Mistress Aliot became part of the happy village and her cottage As the old lady turned to go one of the mothers called out, “Don’t go Mistress Aliot. Phillipa asked, “Who are you?” “I’m Mistress Aliot! The spirits of Halloween came to me last night and taught me By midday Mistress Aliot was up and about, and first thing she went to the store “Stop!” wailed Mistress Aliot. “Forgive me! I’m just a poor old woman.” “Stop!” wailed Mistress Aliot. “Forgive me! I’m just a poor a stern voice answered. “Then change your ways, old woman, and all will be well,” departed and the old woman Suddenly all was quiet, the creatures and the visions The children ran off screaming. seat in her gloomy parlor, muttering to herself, and Mistress Aliot returned to her The laughing, shrieking bunch of boys and girls, all dressed up in whatever scary of boys and girls, all dressed up in whatever scary The laughing, shrieking bunch Mistress Aliot lived by herself at the edge of the village in a Caribbean island with at the edge of the village in a Caribbean island with Mistress Aliot lived by herself All Saint’s Eve is not the time to scoff at age-old traditions, as the village’s grumpy to scoff at age-old traditions, as the village’s grumpy All Saint’s Eve is not the time Halloween Lesson Halloween was the first that the boys and girls came to when trick-or-treating at Halloween. Come and join our party.” a lesson. I’ve made these cookies for all of you as a Halloween treat. I know I’m late, but here, come and get them.” The children rushed and took their Halloween treats and it wasn’t long before all the cookies were eaten. and bought ingredients to make sweet coconut cookies. When they had cooled, she filled a basket to the brim and hurried off to the village square. The people were there with their children enjoying the late afternoon and nobody recognized this strange old lady. sobbed loudly. Then she got out of her bed and threw open her windows and doors. sobbed loudly. Then she got out of her bed and threw She washed all her clothes She lit her lamp and all night she scrubbed and cleaned. and her quilt and sheets, hung them to dry and then she washed her dirty hair and scrubbed herself clean. Morning broke at last and Mistress Aliot slept. above her head, dripping red blood upon her dirty old quilt. A fanged lizard, green above her head, dripping red blood upon her dirty old while its fangs slobbered with as moss on a gravestone, bent its purple eyes upon her yellow brought with it the reeking slime. A huge black bat with claws of sulphur perched and flapped and its stench of hell and flew up through the roof where it old woman’s blood. Ghostly horrible nose wrinkled and sniffed as if searching for the her face and hair and shapes, luminous in the dark swirled and dipped, touching grazing her hands until they stung like fire. then she took herself off to bed. The clock struck midnight, when all the saints then she took herself off to bed. The clock struck midnight, punish Mistress Aliot. So on gather to reward the good children, and they decided to woman’s shoulder. She awoke the stroke of 12 a heavy hand descended on the old greeted her and Mistress with a start. “What was that?” she cried. An eerie chuckle out of her walls, sliding Aliot sat bolt upright. Horrible creatures were now creeping grey spider slid down its web through the closed windows and doors. A luminous costumes they could lay their hands on, and carrying bags that were already half full hands on, and carrying bags that were already half costumes they could lay their apples and homemade toffee, boldly followed Phillipa with treats of candy, biscuits, banged loudly on Mistress Aliot’s door and everyone to the edge of the village. Phillipa or her voice, “Trick or Treat!” Mistress Aliot threw open called out, at the top of his witch in her black dress and with her grey hair hanging her door, and looking like a waved her stick at them and hissed, “Get away down to her hunched shoulders, lot of you!” before I put a curse on the mountains and sandy beaches in equal measure. The village had plenty of happy in equal measure. The village had plenty of happy mountains and sandy beaches at looked forward to trick-or-treating around the village mothers and children who they by-passed Mistress Aliot because she always sent Halloween every year. Usually of her stick at them, but this year Phillipa, the eldest them on their way by waving Aliot one last try. the girls, decided to give Mistress old lady found out to her sorrow. old lady found out to her sorrow. OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 Street’s GuidesareavailableatIslandWaterWorldandJohnsonMarineHardware appear in of the ontracking&securingforastorm HURRICANE TIPS! Do thesameandyouwillhavequietanchorages. the anchoragesthatare Real sailorsintheWindwards,LeewardsandVirginIslandscircleStreet’sGuide Thirty-two yearshavegonebyandhehasneverhadtobuydrinks. covered intheguidehewouldbuydrinks. draws sevenfeetthathehasnot anchorage safeforaboatthat anyone couldcomeupwithan In 1980Streetsaidinprintthatif in theEasternCaribbean. that describe Street’s Guidesaretheonlyones dotes ofpeople,placesandhistory. directions, plusinterestinganec- for inter-islandandharborpiloting Real sailorsuseStreet’sGuides Ahoy, LE MARIN RIVIÈRE SALÉE CASE PILOTE FORT DEFRANCE “Sailing DirectionstotheWestIndies”,publishedin1867. in St.Lucia,SullyMagrasBarts,andBlueWaterBooks&Charts Caribbean Compass in FortLauderdale,[email protected] GOOD GUIDESARETIMELESS Compass Artimer Area: Marina: W.I.N.D. Volvo InboardDieselService Sea Services bold Until DonStreetwrotehisfirstguidein1964, ALL the guideheusedwasNorieandWilson’s PICK UP! ): theanchorages Readers!WheninMartinique,pickupyourfreemonthlycopy YES Engineering Voiles Assistance Ship Careneshop Carenantilles Mango Bay Mécanique Plaisance Le Ship Capitainerie Caraïbe Marine Visitwww.street-iolaire.comforawealthofinformation NOT atanyoftheselocations(advertisersinthisissue describedintheotherpopularguides. have choices.” constantly exhortingthereadertobeaworldvoyagerdespitelackoffatwallet:“We repairs, eatingwhatthelocalseat,preventingtheft,etcetera),Fattyisalifecoach, money (planningahead,keepingupwithmaintenance,learningtomakesimple Wild Card’s giving concreteexamplesofhowtogetthemostboatforyourbuck(themanmade issues, pointingoutthat“cheap”doesn’thavetomeanweakordangerous.Besides safely andhappilyonabeerbudget.Herightfullystressesstrengthsafety a loopyway,yeteffectively)justhowanaverageJoeorJosephinecangettosea think theyneedto.Fattyscuttlesthatbelief,illustratingstep-by-step(sometimesin during thevoyage. oceans, herearetwobooksthatwillserveyouwell,bothintheplanningstagesand absolutely haveyourheartsetonacircumnavigationorvoyagesinotherseasand South Africaparticularlyuseful. from theCaribbeantoMediterranean, NorthernEurope,NorthAmerica,and extremely welldocumented.” in everyseasonhasbeentakeninto account,andhundredsofPlansBare round-the-world voyage.InJimmyCornell’s book,everyrouteinoceanand geopolitical situationrapidlyevolving… manyarethereasonsthatmaymodifya cal failure,aplacethatyouenjoysomuch thatyoustaylongerthanexpected,a Jean-Luc Gourmelenof World VoyagePlanner:PlanningafromAnywhereintheto Available atbookstoresorfromFattyGoodlander.com. Okay, wedon’treallywanttoencourageanyoneleavetheCaribbean.Butifyou Available atbookstoresorfromwww.cornellsailing.com. Compass readerswillfindthesectionsonvoyages totheCaribbeanandvoyages BIG PLANS doradeventsfromPVCplumbingelbows),andadviceonnotwasting Voiles etVoiliers magazinehaspointedout:“Amechani- crisply legible. charts anddiagramsare and theabundantpilot mation you’relookingfor, easy tofindtheexactinfor- coding systemsmakeit Alphanumeric andcolor- be usedinanemergency. cally locatedportsofcallto nate routes,andstrategi- areas, suggestionsforalter- for specifictropicalstorm for voyaging,criticalmonths are recommendedseasons round-the-world voyages, voyages ineveryocean,plus cular andpoint-to-point tions ofawiderangecir- Included indetaileddescrip- sailing 200,000miles. of experiencegleanedover encapsulating hisdecades to collectinformation, Cornell’s prodigiousability shows theresultsofJimmy 978-0-9572626-0-7. charts anddiagrams.ISBN 342 pages,colorphotos, Cornell 2012.Flexicover, by JimmyCornell.© Anywhere intheWorld least notinthestylethey afford togocruising,orat many believetheycan’t wisely.” per’s moneyisspent counterparts iftheskip- thy thattheirexpensive can befarmoreseawor- cruising. Cheaperboats when itcomestooffshore and pleasurereceived between dollarsspent is littlecorrelation core premiseisthatthere sible. AsFattysays,“The would everimaginepos- far lessmoneythanmost term oceanvoyagingon about successfullong- has longlivedthelife ic advicefromonewho offering seriouspragmat- primarily a“howto”book can’t helpit—butit’s tains gigglesgalore—he funny, andthisbookcon- 4563100-3-5. white photos.ISBN978-1- 228 pages,black-and- Paperback ande-book, M. Goodlander2011. Fatty Goodlander.©Gary a Micro-Budget Living LargeatSeaon Around theWorld: and SailaSmallVessel and SafelyBuy,Outfit World VoyagePlanner In today’seconomy Fatty isknownfor How toInexpensively , byCap’n ,

OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33

FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2 FIGURE 3 FIGURE 4 October 5th, 2300 hours: Moon and Jupiter between October 5th, 2300 hours: Moon the horns of Taurus October 12th, 0400 hours: Moon and Venus October 18th, 1800 hours: Moon and Mars How to get to Mars , Burford Books, ©2007. THE CARIBBEAN SKY: FREE SHOW NIGHTLY! SKY: FREE THE CARIBBEAN by Scott Welty The Why Book of Sailing The Sky in Sky The October 2012 October , and is still in print. High school physics would never be the same! , and is still in print. High school physics would never Scott Welty is the author of To Contemplate While Having a Glass of Wine on Deck RIP Neil Armstrong. The astronauts A little late, but such is the quaintness of print media. Getting to Mars Rover prompted me to look at how you The recent triumphant landing of the Curiosity Mars But I digress... as usual, the 19th is just the peak of the shower so feel free to look up on the But I digress... as usual, the 19th is just the peak of the Correction on last month’s column: A software glitch indicated the occultation of Mars and Speaking of Edmund Halley, it was he who went to Newton with the idea that a particular set Speaking of Edmund Halley, it was he who went to Newton SATURN - Rising in the morning and setting in the early evening. No Saturn for you! SATURN - Rising in the morning Sky Events This Month the horns of Taurus (See Figure 1) 5th - Jupiter and moon between moon in the morning (See Figure 2) 12th - Venus and crescent 15th - New Moon Figure 3) 18th - Mars and crescent moon setting together (See 19th - Peak of the Orionids meteor shower (see below) 29th - Full Moon Orionids Meteor Shower dust and debris left behind by a comet.Meteor showers are caused by the Earth moving through VENUS - Still a pretty morning ‘star’ rising after 0200 hours VENUS - Still a pretty morning party as Uranus EARTH - Going to a Halloween hours all month just off of Scorpio MARS - Setting around 1930 1930 hours horns of Taurus the Bull. Rising between 2100 and JUPITER - Right between the The Planets in October angle from early evening heading for maximum elongation (biggest MERCURY - Setting in the were my heroes growing up and none more than this quiet, nerdy engineer. I was surprised were my heroes growing up and none more than this engineering for ten years at a small and pleased to learn that after leaving NASA he taught college in Ohio. What were those lectures like? get a spaceship to Mars. Even before Newton, a monk by the name of Kepler figured out that get a spaceship to Mars. Even before Newton, a monk if you will. He also worked out how the orbits of the planets were shaped like ellipses. Ovals The bigger the orbit the longer it takes, long it takes to orbit the sun given the size of the ellipse. here. So the best way to get to Mars is and the math rule is fairly simple but no need for that one that would just kiss both Earth and to inject a spaceship into an orbit around the sun and the path that takes the least fuel. Since Mars’ orbits and then just use half of this orbit. This is take to get to Mars (half of the orbital you know the size of this orbit you know how long it will to go so that Mars will be there when time) and working backwards you can find a good time of Earth and Mars at launch and at you touch its orbit. Figure 4 shows the relative positions it, depending on your sport) to a landing. You see it is much like throwing a ball (or kicking you want to land on and hit it within a running receiver. In fact you can select which crater Notice that you launch your craft in couple of hundred yards. Now THAT’S plotting a course! that 18 mi/sec to help you get to Mars. the direction the Earth is already going. You can use days before and after. This shower produces 20 to 40 meteors per hour — more the farther days before and after. This shower produces 20 to 40 south you are. Jupiter by the moon in September. The moon passed close to each planet but not actually in front of them. Sorry for any puzzling nights staring at that which didn’t happen! of comet sightings were all the same comet orbiting the sun every 80 years or so. Newton said, of comet sightings were all the same comet orbiting the did most of his original work during the “Oh yes, I worked all that out some time ago.” (Newton a large stack of manuscripts over 20 plague years when Cambridge was closed) and dug out (which explained gravity, motion, orbital years old. Halley convinced Newton that the papers invention of calculus) should be pub- motion, the tides, force and inertia, and contained the he knew he was right and hated arguing lished. Newton didn’t like publishing his work because work. The manuscript was published as with people whom he knew wouldn’t understand his The Principia This shower is due to the most famous comet of all — Halley’s Comet. The name of the shower isThis shower is due to the most famous comet of all — Halley’s near the constellation Orion.because the meteors will appear to emanate from a point as the month progresses. the sun) on the 27th OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 half-cup servingprovideseightgramsofproteinand7.5fiber. tial Bvitaminsandiron. and arehighincarbohydrates,whichprovidedurableenergy.Beansessen- are oneoftherichestsourcesfiber.Mostbeanscontainatleast20percentprotein form acompletehigh-fibervegetableprotein.Mostbeansareextremelylowinfatand heart disease.Combinedwithnuts,seeds,orgrains(especiallybrownrice),beans Eating acupofcookedbeansdaycanloweryourcholesterolanddecreaserisk hours bringsthembacktolife,activatingenzymes,proteins,vitaminsandminerals. to four-cupportionsuseinfuturerecipes.Ifyouwantfasterbeans,buycanned. remainder, unseasoned.Considertheamountsneededinfuture:maybeahalf the stars.Maketwiceamountofbeansyouneedforamealandfreeze many otherthingswhiledriedbeanssoakandcook,fromdoinglaundrytowatching substantially. Itisbesttoaddtheseingredientswhenthebeansarejusttender. liquid. Donotaddsaltorvinegar,tomatoesjuice,whichcanslowthecooking or butterwithaclovetwoofmincedgarlicuntiljustbrownandaddtothecooking foam andblockthepressurevalve.) the cookingtime,butbesuretoaddsomeoilwatersobeansdon’t Lentils andsplitpeastakelessthanahalfanhour.(Apressurecookercutsdown cooked evenly. between twofingersorwithafork.Alwaystestfewbeansincasetheyhavenot mash betweenyourtongueandtheroofofmouthortheycanbeeasilymashed water andbringtoaboil. while youdosomethingelse.Comeback,pouroffthewater,addtriplefresh a boil,andletcookforoneminute.Cover,removefromheat,sithour soak byplacingoneormorecupsofbeansinapotwithdoublethewater.Bringto soak themovernight.(That’stheeasiestway).Or,anafternoonmethodistoquick- and insalads. cooked, groundintoflourorcurdledtofu.Theyareexcellentwithrice,insoups — nobones,coresorpeelsforsmallmoney.Beanscanbeeatenraw,sprouted the easiestfoodstoprepare,andtheypackalotofnutritionwithalmostzerowaste easy, tasty,nutritiousmealswithoutalotofeffortormess. aboard, there’smoremoneystayingintheirpockets.Thetrickistobeablecook all trytocutsomeexpenses.Oncecruiserslearnenjoycookingforthemselves are accepted. for restaurants, hotels, villasorsimply toenjoy athome Provisioning for yacht charters, largeorsmall orders multi grainbreads, croissants, etc. lamb, steaks, frozen bread suchasbaguettes, petitpain, Seafood, shrimp, prawns, smoked &fresh salmon, fish, exotic meats, salami, turkey, prosciutto, juices, etc. We cheese, offer anexcellent selectionofimported on aBoatingBudget: 1 bagdriedor2cansblackbeans($1.20) Black beansarefullofantioxidantcompoundsshowntoimprovebrainfunction.A Black BeanSoup The pricesbelowareinUSdollarsbasedonTrinidad’smarkets. Nutritionally beansarewortheveryminute.Soakingdriedforacoupleof That mayseemlongtopreparesomethinguseinameal,butyoucanbedoing To getaddedflavor,fryacoupleofchoppedonionsintwotablespoonsmargarine Cooking timewillbeaboutanhourdependingonthetypeandageofbean. After eithersoakingmethod,simmerbeanspartiallycoveredtillsoftenoughto To preparedriedbeans,startbyrinsingtoremoveanydirtorsmallstones,then Enjoy nutritiousbeansandsavemoneytimeinthegalley.Beansareoneof Whether onthehookoratdock,afterasummerofhaul-outexpenses,we

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—Continuedonnextpage and iron. grams ofprotein,withonlyonegramfat.LentilsarerichinvitaminB,phosphorus around 350calories,60gramsofcarbohydrateswhich31isdietaryfiber,26 fry forfivemoreminutes.Servelikearegularburgerwithallyourfavoritetoppings. to medium.Addpattiesandcookfortenminutesoruntilbrown.Flipcarefully wet hands.Brusheachpattywithegg.Reheattheoilusedforonionandgarlic until themixturefirmsenoughtoformsolidpatties.Itisbestpattieswith and-garlic mixture,andmixwellwithmashedbeans.Addremainingbreadcrumbs spices, soyandWorcestershiresauces,hotpepperifused.Stirinfriedonion- beater orblender.Combinecarrot,barbecuesauce,halfofthebreadcrumbs,saltand ans andmeat-eaters. hot pepper,andlimejuice.Cookonlowheatforhalfanhour. and broth.Bringtoaboilstirringoftenforfiveminutes.Stirincorn,chadonbeni, oregano, andcumin.Stiroccasionallyforfiveminutes.Addtomatoes,blackbeans, [email protected] www.marigotbeachclub.com 1/2 hotpepper,seededandminced,optional($.20) 2 Tablespoonsketchuporbarbecuesauce($.25) 1 teaspoonsalt,spicessuchascuminororeganototaste($.20) 2 garliccloves,minced($.10) 1 mediumonion,choppedsmall($.30) 1/2 Cupnaturalrice($.30) 6 Cupswater 1 1/2Cupslentils($1) Lentils areanextremelyhealthyfood.Onehundredgramsofrawlentilscontains Good Ol’Lentils’n’Rice Serves four.Totalcost$5. In asuitablebowladddrainedandrinsedbeansmashwithforkoruse In afryingpan,fryonionandgarlicinoiluntiljustbrown. If usingdriedbeans,soakandcooktillsoft.canneddrainrinse. 1 egg,beaten($.20) 1/2 hotpepper,seededandminced,optional($.20) 1 teaspoonWorcestershiresauce($.20) 1 teaspoonsoysauce($.20) salt, pepperandspicessuchasoregano,thymeorcumintoyourtaste($.20) 1 Cupdriedbreadcrumbs($.90) 1 Tablespoonbarbecuesauce($.20) 1 carrot,grated($.20) 2 Tablespoonsoil($.20) 1 garlicclove,minced($.10) 1 mediumonion,choppedsmall($.40) 1 packagedriedoronecanwhiteotherbeansofyourchoice($1.20) Bean burgersarepackedwithhigh-qualityproteinandgreatforbothvegetari- Bean Burgers Serves four.TotalcostUS$7. Heat oilinalargepotovermediumheat.Addonion,garlic,celery,chilipowder, If usingdriedbeans,soakandcooktillsoft.canneddrainrinse. salt andpeppertotaste($.05) 1 Tablespoonlimejuice($.10) 1 hotpepper,seededandminced,optional($.20) 1 bundlechadonbeni,choppedfine($.30) 1 Cupfreshorcannedcornkernels($1.10) 2 Cupschickenorvegetablebroth($.50) 2 largeripetomatoesoronecandiced($2) 1 teaspoongroundcumin($.10) 1 teaspoondriedoreganoleaves($.10) 1 teaspoonchilipowder($.10) 1 stalkcelery,choppedsmall($.25) 2 clovesofgarlic,minced($.10) 1 onion,chopped($.50) 1 Tablespoonoil($.10) OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 18.25.50N 18.25.50N 69.36.67W : • Showers, Laundry, Restaurant, 24 hr security • Immigration office in the marina for clearance • Free WIFI and Free Internet • Dinghy Dock • 12 miles East of Santo Domingo & 7 miles East of International Airport by Ross Mavis THE FOCAL POINT FOR CRUISING YACHTSMENTT Aboard! iiiii Z rrrr

Bean Sprouts Bean Sprouts A garden plot is not required to grow a continuous supply A garden plot is not required Sprouting tends to turn carbohydrate content into sugars Follow these four easy steps for great sprouts • In a clean Mason jar, rinse about 1/4 Cup of untreated • Cover the rinsed seeds, beans or grain with double their • Carefully rinse the sprouts again the next day, using to • Rinse seeds or grain at least twice daily until ready on Your greens will be ready in two to six days, depending Don’t try to grow too much in a jar at once, as crowding Tel: 809 523 5858 VHF Channel 5 of leafy green vegetables. A large Mason jar with a screen or of leafy green vegetables. A mouth is a perfect green- cheesecloth covering the jar’s Several jars can be used for a house for a sailor’s sprouts. cool, dark shelf or cupboard in supply of different greens. A for incubation. Use organi- the galley is the perfect place germination results. cally grown beans for the best and the resulting sprouts are fairly sweet when harvested har- early on. Our guests on board marveled at how newly look- vested sprouts tasted so delicious. Don’t worry about ing slightly like a sheep chewing a mouthful of field greens. The taste results are worth any embarrassment. beans or grain, or one Tablespoon of seed, with lukewarm, fresh water. volume in tepid water. Place the open jar in a dark pantry 20°C cupboard away from cold or excessive heat — between soak and 26°C (68°F to 79°F) is best — and allow them to overnight or for at least four hours. to slightly warm fresh water. Rinse again if necessary remove any foam or froth formed as the seeds swell. as rot harvest. It’s important that they be drained properly will occur if they are left submerged. what is being grown. I prefer the tender, sweet, young for sprouts to the older, nuttier flavour of sprouts aged three or more days. If you like your sprouts leafy green, hours then expose the glass jar to sunlight for the last few of their growth before harvesting them. will curtail growth and sometimes promote rotting. Sprouts keep well in the refrigerator or icebox for a few days. aaaaa MMMM Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Marina Zar-Par • High Quality Sheltered Moorings • Slips to 120’ with depth 10’ • 70 Ton Travelift (30' beam) • ABYC certified machanics • Shore power 30, 50 and 100 amps • All slips with fingers , is now on completely: they contain a harmful toxin only destroyed completely: they contain a The New Caribbean Home Garden Handbook kidney beans Continued from previous page Continued from Serves four. Total cost US$7. Health Note Cook red and 4 Cups dried or 2 cans chickpeas ($3) 4 Cups dried or 2 cans chickpeas 3 Tablespoons oil ($.30) 1 large onion, chopped ($.50) 2 garlic cloves, minced ($.10) 1 stalk celery, chopped ($.20) 1 teaspoon ground cumin ($.10) 1 teaspoon salt ($.10) ($.10) 1 teaspoon red chili powder ($2.50) 3 large tomatoes, chopped 1 Tablespoon lemon juice ($.20) cook till soft. If using canned beans, drain and rinse. If using dried beans, soak and over medium heat. Add onions, garlic, celery, cumin, In a large frying pan add oil Serves four. Total cost $2.50. Serves four. Total Spicy Chickpeas per 100 beans, have 361 calories known as channa or garbanzo Chickpeas, also In a suitable pot with a lid add lentils to the water and cook on medium heat until the water and cook on medium with a lid add lentils to In a suitable pot Shirley Hall, the author of a book-signing tour of the islands. She will be at Dockside Bookstore in Havensite a book-signing tour of the islands. She will be at Dockside at Jay’s Books in Roseau, Mall, Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas on October 17th and Dominica on the 18th. Stop and say hi! salt, and red chili powder. Stir frequently over medium high heat until onions are Stir frequently over medium high heat until onions salt, and red chili powder. Add until mixture thickens. Add lemon juice, stir well. tender. Add tomatoes and stir well, cooking five minutes. Remove from heat and serve channa/chickpeas and stir with rice or pasta. grams, and are rich in carbohydrates, proteins, phosphorus, calcium and iron. phosphorus, calcium rich in carbohydrates, proteins, grams, and are lentils just begin to soften. Add rice, onion, garlic, spices, and salt. Bring to a boil garlic, spices, and salt. to soften. Add rice, onion, lentils just begin rice is cooked. for half an hour or until to simmer. Cover and cook and reduce heat and hot pepper if desired. Stir in ketchup — by cooking. Undercooked beans may be more toxic than raw beans. by cooking. Undercooked beans may be more toxic than OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 charts. Fairtides! the tidefloodsfromwesttoeast.Timesgivenarelocal. and fromjustafteritsnadirtosoonrising,thetiderunswestward;i.e. From justafterthemoon’ssettingtoitsnadir,tiderunseastward; hour afterthemoonreachesitszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward. running totheeastsoonaftermoonrise,continuesrununtilaboutan month, willhelpyoucalculatethetides. shows thetimeofmeridianpassage(orzenith)moonforthisANDnext Street, authorofStreet’sGuidesandcompilerImray-Iolairecharts,which make yourpassagefasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDon 0 1640 1540 1437 20 1338 19 1238 18 1140(newmoon) 17 1046 16 0954 15 0905 14 0816 13 0728 12 0614 11 0552 10 0504 9 0416 8 0327 7 0240 6 0153 5 0107 4 0022 3 2 1 DATE TIME October For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolaire Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestarts Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewill Planning aQuietEastern CaribbeanCruise Next Month’s MERIDIAN PASSAGE OCTOBER -NOVEMBER2012 Hearty butHealthyGalley Treats OF THEMOON An ArubanFlashback … andmore! 0742 0654 0608 9 0521 8 0434 7 0347 6 0259 5 0211 4 0123 3 2 1 November 0000(fullmoon) 2349 31 0035 2303 30 2219 29 2134 28 2050 27 2005 26 1919 25 1629 24 1737 23 22 21 Read in Compass 9 0007 0000(fullmoon) 30 0055 2319 29 2232 28 2146 27 2103 26 2017 25 1933 24 1849 23 1813 22 1714 21 1622 20 1526 19 1426 18 1323 17 1220 16 1117(newmoon) 15 1018 14 0923 13 0831 12 11 10 : —Continuedonnextpage rotis withdelight,mumblingourpraisearound mouthfulsofdeliciousness. awaited eagerly.AsRuthielookedon,eagerly awaitingourverdict,wetuckedintothe etables, wecarriedthetwosteamingrotis outtothediningarea,wheremyhusband thing overtokeeptheedgestogether.After repeatingthesameprocesswithveg- fish, thenpotatoes,andfoldedthebread aroundthefilling,gentlyflippingwhole you don’twanttoletitgetbrownfreckles — itwillbetoohardtofold.” top withoil,”sheinstructed,“andletitsit afewminutestocook.Itmightpuffup,but used awax-paperballtothoroughlycover the topofroundwithoil.“Reallycover off theflourfromdoughround,shegentlyplaceditinagenerousamountofoilthen a flatironplate,butgriddlewouldworkjustaswellinthemodernkitchen.Tapping a 12-inchround.Sheexplainedthattherotisaretraditionallymadeonrotistone, like along withabouthalfacupofwater,andlefttosimmer. over fromthedough.Thecubedfishwasaddedtospicesinoriginalpan, throwing inhandfulsofpigeonpeascookedcoconutmilkandyellowsplit left ticularly goodforleftovers.Sheusedcarrotsandpre-cookedCaribbeanpumpkin, explained thatavegetableroticanuseanycombinationofvegetables,andispar- fragrant spicemixandstartingasecondpanforthevegetablefilling,Ruthie set toboilwhileshecubedthefirmkingfishintohalf-inchsquares.Halvingnow it’s nottraditional.” the veggieandbeefrotis,Iliketoaddanicestrongcinnamonbayleaf,eventhough “You’ve gottoletitheatupgettheflavorsoutofspices,”sheexplained.“For Trinidadian currypowderandchadonbeni,aCaribbeanherbmuchlikecilantro. heat inabitofoil,shesautéedgarlic,onions,peppers,cayenne,peppercorns, and aveggieroti,butstartedthespicemixforbothinsamepan.Overmedium roti you’veeverhad.” explained, “ButwhatItellpeoplewhentheystartfussin’isyou’regonnagetthebest “because thedoughisjustnotsameifrefrigerated.”It’salengthyprocess,she with acloth,explainingthatshemakestheentirerotifromscratcheachtime, back togetherintoaball.Shesetthetwofilledballsofdoughasidetorest,covered that thesplitpeas“addflavourandprotein”asshepinchedsidesofdough placed afewtablespoonsofmashedyellowsplitpeasinthecenter.Sheexplained Using herthumbs,sheshapedeachballofdoughintoasmallbowlshape,then the fields,”andeachislandmakesthemdifferently. lunch witheverythinginthere...abulky,heartymealforthehusbandsgoingout like flatbreadfilledwithpotatoesandmeatorvegetables—isthe“packed,fitted were noIndiansonBequia,“itwasallAfricansandScotshere.”Theroti—atortilla- West IndieswithIndianindenturedservantsaftertheendofslavery,thoughthere technique. Shefirstlaidoutalltheingredients,explainingthatrotiscameto season. Therestaurantwasquiet,givingRuthieplentyoftimetoshowmeherroti ask Ruthienicely,maybeshe’lltellyoutheotherstoryofbar’sname. vertebrae asyoulookoutovertheclear,aquawatersofAdmiraltyBay—andif enter therestaurantthroughanarchofwhaleribsandsitonbarstoolsmadefrom to openabarwiththese?”andtheideaforWhalebonerwasborn.Todayyou his friendsonedaydownamongthebonesandexclaimed,“Hey,wouldn’titbefun small islandknownasWhaleCay.Fiftyyearsago,Ruthie’sfatherwasdrinkingwith many yearsnowhalesaretaken.Butalargepileofwhalebonesstillexistson take uptofourwhalesayear,therearefewleftwiththeskillshuntthem,and England. WhiletheInternationalWhalingCommissiontodaypermitsislandersto — electedtostayintheislandparadiseratherthanreturnfrigidwatersofNew repair theboat,manyoffishermenhadstartedfamiliesand—notsurprisingly Nantucket wasstrandedontheislandduringahurricane.Inyearittookto controversial, activityonBequia.Somesayitstartedwhenawhalingshipfrom and laughingoverworkinginourparents’businessesaschildren. amused retellingofherson’sbartendingaptitudeledtoanafternoontellingstories open withagreatheave,asiftheyweighedton.Ruthiesoonreturned,andmy hands andfittingthemintoatraditional,wall-mountedbottleopener,levering to stifleagiggleasheopenedourbottlesbyenthusiasticallygraspingthemwithboth Caribbean, please.”Iwascharmedsillybyhisdictionandgoodmanners,had with precisepoliteness,“WhatmayIbringyou?Thatwillbe12dollarsEastern capable offillingin,askingus Camillo, however,wasmorethan scrawny eight-yearoldson Williams, wasout.Heradorable, net, theowner,RuthieHinkson- Whaleboner forbeersandinter- watch hermakethem. pected she’dbewillingtoletme laughing withtheownerandsus- had justspenttheafternoon virginity —particularlybecauseI decided itwastimetolosemyroti eaten atalocalrestaurant,I from-scratch” rotistheyhad started ravingaboutthe“made- visiting ourboatforsundowners when acoupleoffellowcruisers tions ofotherislandfoods.So despite ourenthusiasticexplora- but hadn’tyetsampledaroti, 40-foot HardinSeaWolfketch, we’d visitedonoursailboat,a everywhere inthetenislands and Ihadseensignsforthem Grenadines. Myhusband,Pip, making lessoninBequia,the was. ThenIluckedintoaroti- I didn’tevenknowwhataroti six monthssailingtheCaribbean, ROTIS WITHRUTHIE Finally, Ruthieslidthecookedflatbread ontoaplate,thenlayeredpotatoes, Once thefillingswereonstove,Ruthieturnedbacktodough,rollingitoutinto Into anotherpotwenthandfulofTrinicurrypowderanddicedpotatoes, Ruthie turnedtothefillingsasdoughrested:she’ddecidedmakebothafish As shespoke,mixedabasicflourdough,kneadeditandsplitintotwoballs. The daywevisitedwasararerainyinBequia,whichhadjustenteredtheoff Ruthie’s fatherstartedtheWhaleboner50yearsago.Whalingisatraditional,if When wefirstdroppedintothe I’m ashamedtoadmitthatafter by HeatherHamilton demonstrates herrotitechnique On aquiet,rainydayinBequia,Ruthiehappily OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 Zar-Par volumes 3 Marina FREE FREE www.marinazarpar.com Boca Chica, Dominican Republic Boca Chica, Compliments of:

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, and forthcoming articles in Blue Water Sailing and . Follow Heather and Pip’s adventures at www.picaroonblog.com. Folding the fillings into the wrapper — Pip approves of the result! Continued from previous page Continued from Dig in. Heather B. Hamilton spent 15 years in Washington, DC trying to save the world Drain the potatoes. Place each flatbread round on a plate. Place a quarter of the potatoes on each round, As the potatoes and vegetables are cooking, roll out the dough into two 12-inch If the vegetables are not pre-cooked, add them to the spice mix with about a half- In a medium pot in salted water, bring the remaining curry powder and potatoes to a In oil over medium-low heat, sauté the onion, garlic, peppercorns, “sive”, chadon 2 medium potatoes, in half-inch dice 1 Cup vegetables, such as diced carrot, pumpkin, squash, or greens 1/2 Cup cooked beans or peas, such as pigeon or black-eyed peas Mix the flour and salt in a bowl and add the oil and enough water to form a mod- Vegetable Roti Makes two. For the dough: 3/4 Cup cooked yellow split peas, mashed with 2 leaves chadon beni, sliced (substitute cilantro if unavailable) 1/4 teaspoon cayenne 1/4 teaspoon black pepper curry powder is different 6 Tablespoons West Indian curry powder (West Indian curry powder if you cannot from Indian, but you can substitute any sweet Indian 2 Cups flour 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 Cup vegetable oil 1/2 Cup water For the filling: Oil for sautéing 1/2 an onion, very finely sliced 2 cloves garlic, finely minced or grated 10 whole peppercorns green onions; either can 3 Tablespoons diced “sive” (a cross between chives and Satisfied that we were happy, Ruthie sat down with us and we whiled away the rest down with us and we whiled we were happy, Ruthie sat Satisfied that their 40-foot Hardin Sea Wolf ketch. Heather is the author of articles in Compass World before packing it in, buying a and setting out to see the world in November 2010. She and her husband, Pip, are currently exploring the Caribbean on then half the vegetable mix, then the rest of the potatoes. Fold the edges of the flatbread over the filling, creating a rough cube, and flip so that the edges are under the filling. rounds. Heat several tablespoons of oil in a griddle or shallow frying pan over medi- um heat. Shake off the flour and place the dough round in the oil. Use a ball of wax paper or paper towel to generously coat the top side of the flatbread with oil. Cook for one to two minutes on each side; do not let brown marks appear. cup of water and simmer until tender, adding water as needed. When tender, add the cooked beans/peas and leftover split peas. boil then lower to a simmer and cook until potatoes are tender, about eight minutes. beni, cayenne and black peppers and three tablespoons of the curry powder in a few tablespoons of oil. erately stiff dough. Knead together just long enough for the dough to become firm and hold together. Divide into two and flatten into a five-inch round. Make a well in the center of each and fill with two to three tablespoons of the mashed peas, reserv- ing the rest for the filling. Bring together the edges of the dough to form a ball and let rest covered with a cloth or plastic wrap while preparing the filling. find West Indian) be substituted) fork or food mill of the afternoon swapping stories and laughing together. Ruthie’s rotis were fabu- together. Ruthie’s swapping stories and laughing of the afternoon a new friend and afternoon I spent making more memorable was the lous, but even fully. that became a lesson in living her life, a cooking lesson learning about — OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 S/V Whitebird Mike Barnott channel tothemix. calling channelsthanitdoesforadding yetanother vides astrongerargumentforNOThaving multiple channel 68,Iwouldsuggestthatthisexperience pro- channel 16. digital distresscallreinforcedwithaverbal maydayon that istousethedesignatedchannel — automatic unless theyheartherequest.Thebestwaytoensure a visitingwarshipcouldprovide,butwillnotdoso much assistanceacruiseshipor(tobelaborthepoint) channel whilemonitoringanother.Considerhow for aresponse;thiscouldmeanmissingcallonone calls onboth16and68monitoringchannels As ColinThomasdescribes,thisnecessitatesmaking channel 68serveasanemergencyatnight. mercial traffic.However,itisoftensuggestedthat well inseparatingmuchoftheyachtingfromcom- as asmall-crafthailingchannelandthatworksvery tional agreementonthis(SOLAS). to thesafetyofalifeatsea;indeedthereisinterna- the onlycorrectradioprocedureinresponsetodanger together withaverbalmaydayonVHFchannel16is the areaisalerted.So,aDSCautomateddistresscall loud alarm.UndertheGMDSsystemallshippingin and itwillstillreceiveanemergencycallsounda channel overnight,withthevolumeturnedrightdown, your exactpositionasitsendsmayday. emergency callonchannel70;itautomaticallygives the reddistressbuttononyourVHFinitiatesadigital and operatesontheDSCchannel,channel70.Pressing GMDSS (GlobalMarineDistressandSafetySystem) that wasnotreferredtointhearticle—itiscalled another “security”channel. 2012.] HoweverIamappalledatthepropositionof Dear writer intheworld(myfirstarticlewas years, whoistheoldest,andlongest-servingyachting Don Street,atage82,whohassailedcontinuallyfor70 the wonderfulcopytheywillbeabletowriteabouthow judge, itwillbeworththefine!” fun arguingwiththeprosecutingattorneyand ing alifejacket!”towhichIreply,“Iwillhavesomuch Some peoplesay,“Youmightgetarrestedfornotwear- ing wornalifejacket,Iamnotabouttostartnow! boat thatcapsizedheisdeadofhypothermia.) as bythetimefishermanisfoundthatwasinasmall law willnotsavetoomanylivesinthesenorthernwaters, one towearalifejacketwhenevertheyareinboat.(The es capsize,theyhavepassedalawthatrequiresevery- lost whentheirsmall(usuallyoverloaded)fishinglaunch- 2012], inIrelandbecauseofthenumberfishermen boat withnolifejackets[Info&Updates,September Dear Glandore, Ireland Gypsy Don Street all myyoungcrewdo! old lifetimesailortogothandieinanursinghome.” and drown!”TowhichIreply,“Amuchbetterwayforan is arrestedandfinedfornotwearingalifejacket. racing a74-yearoldDragon,andstilldrinkingHeineken, magazine inSeptember1964),andwhoisstillsailing, “Boarded andShotinBequia”, experience inBequiawiththedeepestsympathy.[See FFORUM RREADERS' While ColinThomasdidfinallysummon helpon Here inGrenadachannel68isofficiallydesignated A VHFradioequippedwithDSCcanbeleftonany There is,infact,alreadyanotheremergencychannel THE LIFEJACKETQUESTION Also my fellow yachting writers will love it. Think of Also myfellowyachtingwriterswillloveit.Thinkof Having sailedfor70ofmy82years,andneverhav- Regarding theBequialadswhowenttoseainanopen VHF/DSC EMERGENCYCALLS But thoughIdonotwearalifejacketorPFD,insist Then somepeoplesay,“Butyoumightfalloverboard Like mostsailors,nodoubt,IreacttoColinThomas’s O E Compass Compass R A U D , , M E R S '

Compass , September Yachting

Dear S/V BoldlyGo Ellen Birrell Respectfully, from ajobwelldone,areinvaluable. viable skillsandtheassociatedself-esteemthatcomes Making oneselftrainableanddisciplined,building skills couldleadtocareersinthemarineindustry. local peopleandtheinternationalcommunity.These modern sailingworld,findingrespectfromboththeir guage ofISAF.Thisway,theycanadvancewithinthe additionally speaktheuniversallyunderstoodlan- speaking twolanguages,itisanadvantageforthemto in, andonedayskippering,double-enders.Like honor theirdouble-enderracingheritagebycrewing higher qualityregattaforallinvolved. tiveness fortrainingtheyouthandorchestratinga look aheadto2013withgreaterknowledgeandeffec- a bumpintheroad,fromwhichallcanlearn.We opportunity. Wecaninterpretthisasagrowingpain, ing therecentregattacouldbetreatedasalearning disorganized untrainedkids.” sailing istoleadgreaterthingsorwillremainwith kids beingunabletocompeteregionally.Eitheryouth rules. Failuretopursuethesepointswillresultinour charge. Punctualityisessential,asknowledgeofthe rest oftheworld,RaceCommitteeareinabsolute should educatetheirsailorstounderstandthat,inthe CJSC, inordertocompetetherestofCaribbean, which headquarterinTyrrelBay,saidafterwards,“The chair oftheCarriacouRegatta’smodernyachtraces Grenadines. AsJerryStewart,Carriacouresidentand one-design boats(OptimistsandLasers)outsideofthe and racingrulestoprepareherjuniorsailorsrace (CJSC) hasfortwoyearsbeenteachingISAFstarts ning andregistrationpurposes. one-design classes)andhaveaviablewebsiteforplan- committees (double-enders,modernyachtsandjunior nity toimprovecommunicationbetweenthethreerace mittee cannotbeoverstated.2013willanopportu- with sailing/racingexpertiseontheCarriacoucom- caused frustrationforallinvolved.Theneedpeople to learnamarinelanguageinternationallyunderstood. are developmentofanalyticalthinkingandthechance applying InternationalSailingFederation(ISAF)rules rules usedworldwide.Sidebenefitsforlearningand ing theseboats,thenaturalpathisutilizingclass Lasers. Forthechildrenwhowanttoadvanceintorac- one-design boatssuchasOptimists,Mosquitosand Martinique, CarriacouandGrenadautilizemodern sail-training programsinBequia,Canouan,Petite the helmthemselvesoneday.Additionally,junior boats. Manycrewfortheirfathersanduncles,taking embrace theirheritageofdouble-endersandworking in theGrenadines. ate thetransitionandgrowingpainsofyouthsailing need forpeople,localandinternational,toappreci- the Grenadines.Iwouldliketoshinealighton management andoftheplightyouthsailorsin me tothinkingabouttheimportanceofgoodregatta Dear Compass, —Continuedonnextpage painful waytoleavethisEarth. might happeninlessthan12hours.Itis aviolentand extremely dehydratedandyourorgansshut down—it cholera actsquicklyanddecisively. You become “fever”. Theywillstayontheislandand perishas to themainland.Theythinktheywill getoverthe times sickHaitianscannotaffordtheboat taxicosts to 20,000inhabitantsspreadallaround it.Many great. Ile-à-Vacheisabigislandwitharound 15,000 can onlytakeafewattimeandthedistancesare fuel toruntheboataseventhoughitgoesquickly by boat.Itcouldgoonformonths.Thebiggestcostis being senttomorrowtobeginourambulanceservice worse theWHOwillsendinamedicalteam.Fundsare their time.Hopefullyifthecholeraoutbreakgets Canada, USA,andmanyothercountrieswhodonate missionary doctors.ThesearedoctorsfromCuba, from Ile-à-VachetoLesCayesonthemainland, much worse. break ofcholerabeforethestormnowcouldbecome lines thereare,manyhavebeendamaged.Theout- sea. Wellshavebeenpollutedbyrunoff.Whatpower swollen rivers;alotoftopsoilisbeingwashedtothe houses havebeendestroyed.Littlecreeksarenow trees. Manytents,makeshifthousesanddamaged been washedaway.Severalkilledbyfallingwallsand not dowell.Thedeathtollcontinuestorise.Areashave Vache. Ourboatsurvived. quadrant ofthestorm.NoheavydamageonIle-à- Ile-à-Vache hitbysevereheavyrainsfromthewestern veered north,awayfromIle-à-Vacheduringthenight. BOAT AMBULANCEFORHAITI It iswonderfulforchildrenoftheGrenadinesto What couldbeviewedasanegativeexperiencedur- The directoroftheCarriacouJuniorSailingClub There wereproblemsduringthejuniorraces,which Youth herestraddletwoworlds.Importantly,they The CarriacouRegattainearlyAugustreallygot LEARNING WORLD-CLASSSAILINGSKILLS At thispointwearepreparingtotakethesickacross Unfortunately PortauPrinceandNorthernHaitidid August 26,2012,Ile-à-Vache,Haiti.HurricaneIsaac Compass , OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39

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www.street-iolaire.com insurance. You never know how good The insurance business has changed. insurance, but there is no good cheap No longer can brokers talk of low rates. Rather, the honest broker can only say, your insurance is until you have a claim. There is good insurance, there is cheap The Perfect Storm “I’ll do my best to minimize your increase!” e-mail: [email protected] ☛ Isaac’s Storm: A Man, a Time, and the Deadliest to tell our advertisers you saw their ad in I have been connected with the marine insurance But if we had been in the same place for Hurricane But if we had been in the boats. One couple was Many friends lost their Actually, I just finished reading a real super book business for 47 years. I have developed a rapport with brokers and underwriters at Lloyds and am able to introduce boat owners to specialist brokers in the Lloyds market. lines; the wind and rain so intense, rain blowing side- and rain so intense, rain lines; the wind out all the stung his face. It washed ways actually flooded. island, many homes damaged, roads on the to stay on the had been begging us not All my friends he was right, was the captain. Anyway, boat but John friend as bugs aboard. A semi-heroic we were snug to check his out with scuba tanks came swimming and John! by and called out, “Patty boat and passed back, “COME for a hot meal!” and I yelled Come ashore CHILI!” MADE A BIG POT OF ABOARD! I JUST Actually, I had to put it aside for a few days, was dis- turbed by the accounts of bloated bodies floating by, but couldn’t resist going back and finishing the book. It is quite a ride. But now is not the time to read it…. —Continued on page 45 Hugo a couple years later, well, all anchored boats Hugo a couple years later, lost out at sea. The island were either driven ashore or leaves were blown off all was totally wiped out, all the only form of communica- the trees, all lines down, the here in Venezuela listen- tion was ham radio. We were the Virgin Islands were ing to the ham radio, how heard a ham friend there getting hammered, when we ham broadcast was put calling the USA for help! His as his was the only on live, coast-to-coast in America, Quite a sensation! Not voice coming out of St. Croix! get through, National even the Coast Guard could on his boat on the ham Guard, nobody but our friend lawless emergency, no radio. He described the totally no law enforcement. And power, no water, no food, report of a grocery looting: he gave an eye-witness with machine guns on tur- store with men on the roof, for food and water! rets, holding off people searching What a scene! aboard their sailboat in Christiansted harbor. Get this, he was a diesel mechanic and his own motor was down; they were waiting for parts. A huge barge broke its mooring and came down on them. Their boat was one of the first to go down and was soon driven ashore, completely destroyed. All that my friend was able to was her purse. All else was lost. Nothing much you can do if you are in the wrong place at the wrong time. But let’s not think about that! At least they sur- vived. What a story they had to tell. They should have written a book. called Hurricane in History weather bureau was just in its infancy. In their new technological age (having telegraph) they thought that nothing could go wrong. But they were dead wrong. The hurricane hit Galveston, which is quite low lying, the city was completely submerged, 2,000 lives lost. The weather bureau had thought the storm had tracked north up the Atlantic coast! They refused to believe Cuban reports, thought that they were not a reliable source of information! It’s really quite an exciting book, as good as The Carenage: Monday - Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday - Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 Readers, as it was getting dark, all the radio stations Compass PM Continued from previous page Continued from Oh yeah, did survive a couple of hurricanes. We were There were some high winds here in Venezuela, Hurricane Isaac is brewing as I write this. I hope my Hurricane Isaac is brewing I SURVIVED A COUPLE OF HURRICANES I SURVIVED A COUPLE OF Thank you for the donations coming in. Yes 100 coming in. Yes 100 Thank you for the donations Wagner Tanis is the captain of the boat we brought is the captain of the boat Wagner Tanis Frederick brought rain, like never. You know when Hubbard’s JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G’da.) Ltd. Stock Up on the widest selection and the best prices in Grenada at our two conveniently located supermarkets. Whether it’s canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more. on the boat (anchored with four anchors) for Hurricanes on the boat (anchored with four anchors) for Hurricanes David and Frederick in 1979 in St. Croix. Was really something. We were right in the track for David. We had stripped the boat of its sails, tied everything else down on the cabin top, including the dinghy. At 6:00 could have been the outer weather bands. Am still in could have been the outer weather bands. Am still in the apartment recovering from my second knee replace- ment surgery, so don’t know what sea conditions are like but most likely the beaches are getting pounded. friends in Florida will be okay. Dear percent of all donations goes to a Haitian hand. goes to a Haitian hand. percent of all donations EVER. All of your money Nothing goes to overhead — to give them a hand up goes to Haiti to the Haitians donate through the TD and not a hand out. You can www.friendsofileavache- Bank through the website and photos will be haiti.com. Further updates passed along. God Speed Haiti, Bruce Leeming [email protected] over from the people of the Cayman Islands. He is also people of the Cayman Islands. over from the and a of the Canadian Water Project, the director is a shining fish farm operation. He manager of our sick people, of Haiti. He hears of star for the people about the to them and explains facts finds them, talks another fam- them up, usually taking sickness. Loads the eight- to and takes them across ily member it is in the to the doctors. Sometimes 12-mile journey stormy weather. middle of the night, sometimes of. He has saved many Wagner is truly one to be proud to his hand — 100 lives. All funds raised go directly for 14 years and will percent. I have known Wagner life. know him for the rest of my — the rain reaches an intensity where you think it can’t the rain reaches an intensity where you think it can’t come down any harder, that the cabin top will cave in? Well, it was like that sustained for 12 hours! John had to put on a dive mask to go out on deck to check the from shore were playing religious hymns! I couldn’t from shore were playing religious hymns! I couldn’t take the stress. John went nuts when he found me asleep in the front bunk. He yelled “Are you crazy? You I took something to sleep at a time like this when I might need you?” I hadn’t, I was just so scared WILLED myself to sleep! Well, it must have been the power of prayer because as Hurricane David was bor- ing down on St. Croix it unexpectedly veered west, so passed south of the island. We were on the north side, and although the island is only ten miles wide at that point it made a huge difference. 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uta Never Chartered Cl p erb Liveaboar 200047’ Catana 200750’ Catana 200773’Executive e a bl g n Cruise e Cruiser g g C $ g €340,000 , h S g Saf $950,000 r 2,000,000 le Keel u Ca i p s e eed er t r 148.9K 134.9K 1 13 d r 54.9K 48.9 5 250K 289K 199K 149K 119K 120K 199K 235K 2 1 1 235 4 4 66K 30K 59K 69K 65K 32K 69K 79K 32K 67K 79K 6 59 32 6 89 4 99 .9 .9 6 7 9 K K K K K K K K K K K one who’llwatchoverme. for amomentIhearinmymindhaunting,familiarrefrain: versation driftsfromwell-groomedBeneteaus.Ithinkofheronelasttime,and for twoyears.Iwalkon,feelingherpresencebehindme.Nearby,cockpitcon- her name in business,thefathersandsons? Henry Brown&Son,Ltd.,BarkingLondon.It’sbeen20years.Aretheystill Bainbridge; aWalker&Sonstaffraillog;Sestrelcompassatopbinnacleby controls; aCamper-Nicholsonteakwheel;sparsbyProctor,sailsHowe& dust: Brooks&Gatehouseelectronics;aPintaautopilot;Morsecockpitengine Gentle tumblehome.NamesIknowbutdon’tknow,eachdarkenedbytimeand sense apedigree. England, 1972,Number966. tures towardthemanufacturer’splacardoncabin. my eyes. shadow passesoverhead. a disassembledvane.Apinkheadbandwiththescentofcologne.Suddenly more clothesandlinescoilingtheirwayintodarkrecesses.Hydraulicsteering, down inafoulblackooze.Iscootaft,intothemaster’scabin.Moredisarray, my feet,anemptyElDiegocigarboxrestsagainstamanualbilgepumpstuck thrown aboutlikepick-upsticks.Abowlwithdriedbitsofvegetablesoup.At receipt ismissing. Montserrat onthe27th.Theymusthaveclearedhere,inSt.Lucia,but cleared BVIonJanuary21st,1987,enroutetoSt.Vincent.Then tured momentslikeadeckofcards. maybe… Greece,Yugoslavia.Irushthroughthestackofphotos,dealingcap- the background.Cobblestonestreets.Rockycoastlines.TheMediterranean, their armsdrapedaroundeachotheringiddy,choreographedposes.Cliffs shots ontopofscatteredblack-and-whitedocuments.Twomenandawoman, the clutter.Iliftnavtablelidandscancontents.Astackofcolorsnap- stares backatme. head. Stained-glasscabinetdoorsstandopen.Inside,apairofsunglasses boots, waddedshirts,anup-endedradarscreenandboxesstackedtotheover- plotting sheetswithfadedcompassheadings.Theportsetteesagsbeneathsea board game,aCaribbeancruisingguide,starfinders,andstacksofuniversal Di’s tantalizingeyes,blurredbysaltwater. shining throughtheforehatch,glancesoffcoverofatatteredmagazine.Lady ions, lines,sails,andcrumpledyellowslickersspilloutoftheV-berth.Sunlight, There’s asomebodyI’mlongingtosee…Ihopethathe…turnsoutbe…some- The Englishmanisgone.Isteptothedockandwalkaway,glancingbackat A double-headsailriggedketch,about48feet,withalong,gracefulentry. I squint,tryingtoreadthewornletters: “A Berthon,”hesays.realpassage-makersheis.” A tanmaninbaggyjeans,hiswatchcaptiltedtowardbrackishredeyes,ges- “Good morning,”Isay.“She’swhat?” A lazyBritishaccentcallsfromthefingerdock.Istepupladderandshade “She’s aBerthon.” The galleyisamess.Skewedspiceracks,overturnedpots,knivesandforks In thecorner,twoCustomsreceipts.Thecrewnamesaresmeared.They It wasokaytogoaboard,somehadsaid;she’sforsale.Still,I’muneasyamid In themainsalon,chartdrawerstiltdown,halfopen,revealingaTri-Ominos I’m sittingatthenavstation,feelinglikeanintruder.Forward,heapsofcush- to WatchOverHer of sunglassesstaresbackatme : Stargazer,Southampton. Stained-glass cabinet doors Stained-glass cabinetdoors stand open. Inside, apair WHAT’S ONMYMIND Someone Yank thatIam,donotknowthename.Still,can by LeeWoods She’sbeensittinghere,someonehadsaid,

Berthon BoatCo.,Ltd.,Lymington, JANE GIBB JANE OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 $65,000 Miss Goody Sundeck, Washer/Dryer 43’ 1987 Marine Trading 2* 40 HP 160 000 € 2* 40 HP Lagoon 410 S2 - 2006 Charter Version - 4 Cabins / 4 heads / 4 heads - 4 Cabins Charter Version Sail Power MONOHULLS CATAMARANS [email protected] Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 775-4803 www.stthomasyachts.com St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 www.stthomasyachts.com AMEL 54 2008 AMEL Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, $550,000 Warranty - Like New 599 000 € - Like New Warranty 3 strms, 700HP Cats, 55’ 2006 DynaCraft MY Air Cond Full options 1 Year Amel Year Air Cond Full options 1 110 HP Volvo! . Genset . Water Maker . Water . Genset Volvo! HP 110 Amel 54 2008 full options Amel Super Maramu 2000 Superb version Beneteau Oceanis 500 - 1988 Charter full options - 2007 - Private boat Beneteau 50 - 2007 Owner Version PRICE ATTRACTIVE DUFOUR 385 - 2005 - 37 - 1996 - Owner boat Jeanneau SUN ODYSSEY Cabins - Like New 3 Lagoon 500 - 2011 Engines Lagoon 470 - 2002 3 Cabins - New Lagoon 410 S2 - 2003 - Owner Version 89 000 € 100 000 US$ 179 000 € 49 000 € 179 000 € 259 000 € 599 000 € SOLD 550 000 € € 220 000 ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES YACHT THOMAS ST. 35’ 1989 Island Packet , excellent Cond. cond. 38’ 1967 Le Comte, Northeast 38, classic, excellent 43’ 1976 Gulfstar, Yanmar 75HP,low hrs. AP, $ 78,500 52’ 1958 Alden Design, fully equipped Exc. Cond. 26’ 1997 Grady White, cuddy cabin, twin Yamahas $110,000 $ 45,000 40’ 2002 Corinthian 400, Twin Yanmars, Express Cruiser $120,000 30’ 1974 Fales Trawler Perkins Diesel PH $250,000 55’ 2006 Dyna Craft MY Fully Equipped $ 25,000 list of boats for sale Call, fax or visit our website for a complete $550,000 $ 37,000 See ad on page 12. went to press — Compass CALENDAR and date(s) of the event of the organizing body to but plans change, so please [email protected] and the name and contact information Spotlight St. Maarten. www.smmta.com in our monthly calendar, please send the name at the time this issue of Bitter End Pro-Am Regatta, Virgin Gorda, BVI. Bitter End Yacht Club Bitter End Pro-Am Regatta, contact event organizers directly for confirmation. Discover Caribbean Series (Part One), Ponce, Puerto Rico. Discover Caribbean Series (Part One), Ponce, Puerto Rico. Carriacou Photo Festival. [email protected] See ad on page 45 St. Croix International Regatta. www.stcroixyc.com. Viva Regatta (dinghies and windsurfers), Bayahibe, Dominican Republic. Viva Regatta ( and Isla Verde, Puerto Rico. www.fs-pr.com 5K SUP Paddle for the Cure, www.caribbeancompass.com If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE Ponce, Puerto Rico. Discover Caribbean Series (Part One), Antonio Int’l Marlin Tournament, Jamaica. 49th Port Pete Sheals Memorial Regatta, BVI. RBVIYC, www.rbviyc.org Jolly Harbour Yacht Club Regatta, Antigua. Jolly Harbour Yacht Club Golden Rock Regatta, St. Maarten to Statia. St. Barth Cata Cup (F18 catamarans). www.stbarthcatacup.com Barbados J/24 Match Racing Championships. www.sailbarbados.com Martin. www.coursedelalliance.com Course de l’Alliance, St. www.rbviyc.org BVI Schools’ Regatta. RBVIYC, World Creole Music Festival, Dominica. www.wcmfdominica.com Trafalgar Regatta, BVI. RBVIYC, www.rbviyc.org All information was correct to the best of our knowledge 45th Bonaire International Sailing Regatta. www.bonaireregatta.com

BVI Charter Yacht Show. www.bvicrewedyachts.com/boatshow Interline Regatta, BVI. www.moorings.com/vacation-options/regattas www.triskellcup.com Triskell Cup Regatta, Guadeloupe.

Foxy’s Cat Fight (catamaran races), Jost van Dyke, BVI. FREE Caribbean Compass On-line FREE Maarten. St. Maarten Yacht Club (SMYC), SOL Optimist Regatta, St. http://ttgfa.com/events Funfish Tournament, Trinidad. & Tobago (Diwali) Public holiday in Trinidad Round Tortola Race, BVI. RBVIYC, www.rbviyc.org Public holiday in Haiti (Battle of Vertieres Day) Classic Transat to Barbados departs France. www.transatclassic.com Public holiday in Belize (Garifuna Settlement Day) and Cayman Islands Public holiday in Montserrat (Liberation Day) MOON Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) starts, Canary Islands to St. Lucia. FULL Pirogue Festival, Man O’ War Bay, Tobago Public holiday in Suriname (Republic Day) Public holiday in Barbados (Independence Day) Public holiday in the Bahamas (Discovery Day) and Belize (RBVIYC), Virgin’s Cup Race, BVI. Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht Club Public holiday in Haiti (Anniversary of the Death of Dessalines) St. Lucia Billfish Tournament. www.stluciabillfish.com Holiday in Curaçao (Antillean Day) Public Public holiday in the BVI (St. Ursula’s Day) holiday in Grenada (Thanksgiving Day) Public Day) Public holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines (Independence MOON FULL & Barbuda (Independence Day) Public holiday in Antigua Haiti (All Souls’ Day) Public holiday in (Independence Day) Public holiday in Dominica Dominica (Community Day of Service) Public holiday in from Virginia, USA to Tortola, BVI. Caribbean 1500 rally departs Public holiday in St. Lucia (Thanksgiving Day) www.discoverpyfc.com 9 – 11 10 10 10 - 11 10 - 11 fax (599) 544-2091, [email protected], www.smyc.com tel (599) 544-2075, www.jhycantigua.com 10 - 14 www.goldenrockregatta.com tel (268) 770-6172, [email protected], (JHYC), Antigua. 11 - 15 Dec 13 14 - 18 16 – 18 www.discoverpyfc.com 17 17 - 18 Day) 18 18 19 (Remembrance 23 23 - 25 24 - 25 25 www.worldcruising.com/arc 25 25 28 30 1 1 – 4 2 2 - 4 (All Saints’ Day) and Haiti http://foxysbar.com 3 4 4 www.worldcruising.com/carib1500 5 - 10 9 – 11 NOVEMBER 9 – 11 3 5 – 7 OCTOBER 780-0466 (809) 7 – 13 9 - 18 12 13 17 (Pan American Day) 19 [email protected], www.royalbviyc.org tel (284) 494-3286, 20 – 27 www.jamaicasportfishing.com and Jamaica (National Heroes’ Day) 21 22 25 27 27 www.beyc.com 27 - 28 27 - 28 27 - 3 Nov (BEYC), 29 OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL, AZORES Jeff Fisher–Grenada(473)537-6355 and bluewatercruising. harsh environmentofthechartertrade well-built sailsthatarewellsuitedto the for acompetitivequoteonruggedand Check outourwebsiteorcontactus directly S.I.M.S. Boatyard,True Blue,Grenada Incl. Pilots, Chandlery, Charts, stainless steelandaluminiumitems. TechNick Ltd. TEL +351292391616FAX +351292391656 welding. Fabricationandrepairof YACHT SERVICES Engineering, fabricationand MID ATLANTIC Providing all vital services to Providing allvitalservices www.midatlanticyachtservices.com www.neilprydesails.com Tel: (473)536-1560/435-7887 Nick Williams, Manager EU-VAT (16%)importation [email protected] Duty free fuel(+10.000lt) Duty free Caribbean CompassMarketPlace Trans-Atlantic Yachts! Grenada NEILPRYDE Sails [email protected] tel: (473)[email protected] CARRIACOU REALESTATE • wooden-warehammocks+moreuniquegifts Property ManagementonCarriacou Tel: (473)4438187Fax: 4438290 Phone (473)4436500orcallCH16 e-mail: [email protected] We alsohandleVilla Rentals& or contactCarolyn Alexanderat For fulldetailsseeourwebsite: • rareexotic arts+crafts Carriacou RealEstateLtd Sunday Brunch 11.30-14.30 Sunday Brunch young streetst.george's Reservations recommended Reservations Open 11.30-2.00for Lunch Situated ontheSouthSide Land andhousesforsale Tyrrel Bay,Tyrrel Carriacou Use ournewDinghyDock for yourboat,home+friends just stepsfromthecarenage 6.00 -9.00for Dinner Tuesday toSaturday www.carriacou.net Bar openallDay of Tyrrel Bay. Tyrrel of •jewelry grenada continuedonnextpage Zac artimer-LeMarin,MartiniqueFWI Tel: +(596)596650524Fax:053 Voiles Assistance Sails &Canvas(repairsfabrication) Open MondaytoFriday8-12am2-6pm e-mail: [email protected] LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE located atCarenantillesdockyard tel/fax: (596)596748832 F Saturday byappointment L A [email protected] G Watermakers S Didier andMaria Marine Electrics W I N D  C A R T E  P D F                OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43

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REMEMBER eoeafter before Stainless.com Stainless.com Compass ! OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 Regatta News Prizegiving and party are at the Sint Maarten

The popular regatta was originally the initiative of The popular regatta was originally

on the Sunday evening. PM Continued from page 15 … Continued from For more information see ad on this page. Challenging and fun courses take you to Saint Martin, Sint Maarten, St. Barth’s and Challenging and fun courses take you to Saint Martin, Club Marina Fort Louis Registration and the skippers’ briefing are at the Yacht If you have never been to a dinghy concert before, put this date in your your before, put this date in been to a dinghy concert If you have never it! diary and try been moved last time that it has match racing was such a success The regatta’s see ad on page 13. For more information l’Alliance 2012 will be Different! Breaking News: La Course de de l’Alliance Regatta, November 23rd through The 9th Edition of the La Course Anguilla over the course of three days. The yacht clubs of these islands work togeth- Anguilla over the course of three days. The yacht clubs The regatta is open to er to organize starts and finishes at the different destinations. multihull. After each race classes including monohull cruising, monohull racing and evaluating the day, a dinner gathering provides time for relaxation, camaraderie, day’s race and planning strategies for the next day. from Simpson Bay to St. Restaurant on November 22nd. The 23rd is the first race, Anguilla. The 25th is a race Barths. Saturday takes the participants from St. Barths to back to Simpson Bay from Anguilla. Yacht Club at 6:30 to the Saturday so more spectators can watch the action. The Friday and Sunday watch the action. The Friday so more spectators can to the Saturday start or finish in day. All races will either racing with two races each will see the fleet Bay. Clarkes Court 25th, will see exciting changes. under the sanction of the Sint Maarten Yacht Club. Marina Fort Louis and organized will take on the full organization. Marina Fort Louis This year, for the first time, SMYC of the event, with long-time sponsors including Budget remains the primary sponsor Siapoc Saint Martin Yacht Charters and MP Yachting Marine, Windward Island Bank, continuing their support. — …Readers’ Forum …Readers’

Readers, , Compass Compass Continued from page 39 Continued from Send your letters to: [email protected] or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers’ Forum Box 175BQ, Bequia VC0400, St. Vincent & the Grenadines We do not publish individual consumer complaints or individual regatta results com- We do not publish individual consumer complaints or individual We want to hear from YOU! address, and a way we can Be sure to include your name, boat name or shoreside Just my two cents worth. A good marine radio operator, or any good radio operator for that matter, shouldA good marine radio operator, or any good radio operator Can we just put on our thinking cap for a moment and hopefully come to the cap for a moment and hopefully come to the Can we just put on our thinking So why do we still use “over”? Habit? We were told to? Or we just plain follow what Habit? We were told to? Or we just plain follow what So why do we still use “over”? Today, AM communications are a thing of the past. VHF/FM and SSB are the pri- Today, AM communications “Over” was used in the days of HF/AM communications, where reception was of HF/AM communications, where reception was “Over” was used in the days Why in this day of the 21st century communications do we still use “over” to sig- Why in this day of the 21st “OVER” ACTIVITY? Okay, hunker down and remember the power of prayer. The hurricane could just of prayer. The hurricane down and remember the power Okay, hunker plaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name plaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous be edited for length, clarity may be withheld from print at your request. Letters may and fair play. contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarification is required. Leroy A.M. Baptiste, “Stevens One” Grenada Dear always call the station he wishes to communicate with, twice, followed by his own callalways call the station he wishes to communicate with, is to ensure that if Alpha Onesign, i.e. “Alpha One, Alpha One — Bravo Two”. This the “Alpha One — Bravo Two”. missed the beginning of the call, he will certainly hear conclusion that “over” has no place in modern radio communications? Even young no place in modern radio communications? Even young conclusion that “over” has obviously being taught by their parents to do so. Here kids are heard using “over”, you coming over, over”. And here is another one: “My is a good one: “What time are over”. Over what? telephone number is 555 5555 we hear others doing, without even thinking why we do it? If we do not use “over” even thinking why we do it? If we do not use “over” we hear others doing, without that mean that the other party will not get the message? after a transmission, does Even on repeaters, which always have some sort of tone That has never happened. a transmission, some of us still use “over”. device to signify the end of mary means of radio communications for marine, land mobile, etcetera. With marinemary means of radio communications always know when someone has stopped transmitting,VHF/FM communication you but definitely by the end-of-transmission “chirp” thateither by the tone of their voice, button is released at the end of a transmission. always occurs when the microphone sometimes so bad due to static, weak signals, and especially a combination of both, weak signals, and especially a combination of both, sometimes so bad due to static, to hear when a station has stopped transmitting, that it was sometimes impossible introduced to be used at the end of a transmission. hence the word “over” was nify the end of a radio transmission? Dear keep heading west. They are so fascinating as they are so unpredictable. But we are as they are so unpredictable. west. They are so fascinating keep heading technology, right? the new age of Love, Patty — OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 aab ahs udlue 41 MP 18 Guadeloupe Martinique 40 Martinique 47 MP 31 Caraibe Yachts Tortola 2 Caraibe Marine Grenada SintMaarten Caraibe Marine 6 SVG 41 Camper &Nicholsons SVG BVI YachtSales 31 29 Business DevelopmentCo. 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Lots and REMEMBER CW =Caribbean-wide MP =MarketPlacepages42to44 746-7927 E-mail: [email protected] 746-7927 E-mail:[email protected] experienced andreliable.Tel:(757) and sail.Capt.LouisHoneycutt, crew, USCG100tonlicensed,power blue water.Experiencedcaptain/

1177 email:[email protected] excellent long-termrates.Tel:(784)495 Internet, cableTV.2weeksminimum, patio, stunningview,coolbreeze. studio apartment.Bigverandahand Large 2bedroomhouseand/or1bed LA POMPE,BEQUIA E-mail [email protected] woodwork.com Tel:(784)431-9500 for yachtorhomewww.bequia- BEQUIA -CLIFF’SFINEWOODWORKING www. 247sailing.net YACHT DELIVERIES Compass Vnzea MP Venezuela SERVICES RENTALS International International !

OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 Annual $/Berth Grenada , Daily Weekly Monthly Weekly Daily 75 $19,737 $0.64 $1.30 $1.44 32$4,812 $0.37 $0.82 $0.74 40$0.46 $0.93 $1.03 $7,519 50 $10,339 $0.50 $1.02 $1.13 60 $13,534 $0.56 $1.11 $1.24 80$25,565 $0.79 $1.58 $1.75 Size 150$65,700 $1.05 $2.16 $2.40 130 $54,983 $2.03 $2.25 $0.99 100 $32,896 $0.81 $1.63 $1.80 in feetin or email [email protected] email contact Port Louis Marina on +1 (473) 435 7431 435 7431 (473) contact Port Marina Louis on +1 Electricity and water are charged for separately. Rates valid June 1st – 30th November inclusive for a personalised quote. Catamarans are charged times at 1.25 the standard rate. All rates (other than annual) are US$/foot/day. To add a touch of carnival to your sailing this summer, add a touch of carnival to your sailing thisTo summer, WEST INDIES

| summer Caribbean the TURKEY | MALTA MALTA Where you can choose your own lifestyle you can Where | ITALY ITALY | Only five miles from the international airport Chandleries and provisioning services Berthing assistance Bar, restaurant Bar, and swimming pool on-site Haul-out, technical and maintenance facilities nearby 24-hour security 24-hour Free broadband Internet broadband Free Black and grey water pump out Fresh water and electricity and an authentic and unspoilt Caribbean ambiance, and at the gateway to the Grenadines, the ‘Spice Island’ Island’ ‘Spice the Grenadines, the to gateway the at and destination for yacht owners. or under it. of festival, fun or taking your choice. It’s it easy. of Grenada is fast becoming Grenada is of the summer – pageants, parades, carnival and regattas Not surprising, so much going on during when there’s Port Louis Marina is the perfect base for a summer Located safely under the hurricane north, belt at 12° you can get away from and it all just relax, on the water › › › › › › › › › With that rare combination of world-class facilities Port LouisPort Marina – but also beautiful secluded coves and beaches where WWW.CNMARINAS.COM/PLM ABU DHABI Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Guardian Media Limited, Trinidad & Tobago