TRINIDAD & TOBAGO FAR MORE THAN a HURRICANE HOLE See Stories on Page 21 & 24 CHRIS DOYLE (2) NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 Conventional Controllers

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TRINIDAD & TOBAGO FAR MORE THAN A HURRICANE HOLE See stories on page 21 & 24 CHRIS DOYLE (2) NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 conventional controllers. batteries. Gainupto25%over power fromyourpanelsto themselves togetthemaximum controllers continuallyadjust Maximum PowerPointTracking, Blue SkyEnergyMPPT,or of yourbatteries. improve thelife panels, and Get themostfromyoursolar The Caribbean’s www.budgetmarine.com Leading Chandlery CHARGE CONTROLLERS ARUBA ENERGY SAVING CURAÇAO BONAIRE BONAIRE 12/24 VOLTS ST. THOMAS ST. THOMAS ST. CROIX ST. CROIX TORTOLA NANNY CAY 12 VOLTSONLY GRENADA GRENADA ST. MARTIN ST. MAARTEN/ TRINIDAD ST. MARTIN ST. MAARTEN/ TRINIDAD ANTIGUA ANTIGUA with thesepumps! Save bothwaterandelectricity fit andeasytooperate. floor operatedpumps,simpleto Today's rangeincludeshandor based workforce. manufactured byourskilledUK have beendesigned,refinedand the 1960sthesemanualpumps are trulydesignclassics.Since Whale's manualgalleypumps ANTIGUA •ARUBA •BONAIRECURAÇAOGRENADA •ST. CROIX•ST. MAARTEN•ST. MARTIN•ST. THOMAS•TORTOLA TRINIDAD HAND &FOOTPUMPS Caribbean DutyFreeListPrices.Checkyourlocalstoreforfinalpricing. port lights. hatches and Available for to install. lines andiseasy Needs nosupport Breeze Booster cool yourboat! Collect thewind& variable wind. and itflowsa easy toinstall Reinforced, The original! Windscoop ventilation. plastic ventprovidesoptimal seconds,this removedin

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Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Ad Sales & Distribution - Maurice Moffat Distribution - Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell proves otherwise, for Martinique: 74 77 01 Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71 Mob: + 596 696 [email protected] Panama: Red Frog Marina - www.redfrogbeach.com Shelter Bay Marina - www.shelterbaymarina.com Puerto Rico: (787) 219 4918, [email protected] Distribution - Sunbay Marina, Fajardo (787) 863 5282 Olga Diaz de Peréz, Tel: (787) 863 0313 Fax: [email protected] St. Lucia: Tel: (758) 452 0147 Cell: (758) 720-8432 [email protected] St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: Ad Sales & Distribution - Stéphane Legendre Ad Sales - Patty Tomasik Sales & Distribution spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed (787) 219 4918, [email protected] Distribution - Bryan Lezama Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Ad Sales - Shellese Craigg Mob: + 590 690 760 100 [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: [email protected] Distribution - Doc Leslie Tel: (784) 529-0970 Tortola/BVI: (787) 219-4918, [email protected] Distribution - Gladys Jones Tel: (284) 494-2830 Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: David Bovell, Tel: (868) 497-1040 [email protected] Venezuela: Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448 [email protected] Doyle’s Deck View ...... 34 View Doyle’s Deck ...... 38 Readers’ Forum ...... 40 My Mind What’s On ...... 41 Events Calendar of .....42 Caribbean Market Place ...... Classified Ads 46 ...... 46 Advertisers’ Index ISSN 1605 - 1998 Caribbean Compass near you! DEPARTMENTS But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole Trinidad & Tobago www.boatersenterprise.com ...... 30 ‘It is said that the marine environment can be harsh and ‘It is said that the marine environment can be harsh and — The Boca Magazine covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, Distribution - Hubert J. Winston corrosive. The it has grown stronger and stronger over the years, becoming an integral part of the media with its focus on sailing the Caribbean.’ welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. is published monthly by Compass See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts length and clarity.no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for this publication, except short©2012 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of Ltd. excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ad Sales & Distribution - Marina Santa Marta Distribution - Doyle Sails can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore. can use. We’re Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that Distribution - Budget Marine Curaçao Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch Caribbean Compass Info & Updates ...... 4 Info & Updates ...... 8 Business Briefs Regatta News...... 14 ...... 24 Meridian Passage Sailor’s Horoscope ...... Book Review 33 ...... 33 The Caribbean Sky www.igy-marinasantamarta.com/en Curaçao: [email protected] Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 Dominica: Caribbean Compass BQ, Bequia,Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410 [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com Erdle Editor...... Sally [email protected] Ollivierre Assistant Editor...... Elaine [email protected] Hopman Advertising & Distribution...... Tom [email protected] Dederer Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred [email protected] Craigg Accounting...... Shellese [email protected] Compass Agents by Island: Antigua: Tel (268) 720-6868 [email protected] Barbados: Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 Colombia: Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected] Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Karen Maaroufi Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222 [email protected] Caribbean Compass

KAY WILSON nd the nd ....28 Parrots and Pines St. Vincent’s Cumberland Trail Cockpit Comestibles Taking a dip trip...... 36 Click Google Map link below to ﬁ www.caribbeancompass.com NOVEMBER 2012 • NUMBER 206 NOVEMBER 2012 • The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore The Caribbean’s http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078& A daysail to Mustique...... 26 La Vie en Rose Unfrequented anchorages...... 18 To Go or Not? Trinidad & Tobago verdict...... 21 Quest for Quiet KAY WILSON RICHARD DEY Cover photo: Thinking outside the boatyard! There’s a lot more to explore in Trinidad & Tobago Cover photo: Thinking outside the boatyard! There’s a NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 singer Feliciano“Foxy”CallwoodofJostVanDyketoopenwhatisnowaworld- Along theway,Dykewascreditedwithgivingoriginalsuggestiontocalypso Islands totheWindwardIslands,andasfarsouthcoastofSouthAmerica. chartered theirtwoyachtsforatotalofabout30years,rangingfromtheLeeward Sol Quest Inga ran classic woodenvesselbeforetheybegancharteringintheVirgins1963.Dykeand John Aldenschooner, to relocatetheVirginIslandsandsailforaliving.Hepurchasedfamousold the businessthere. Islands, andwereamongthemostsuccessfullongest-standingcrewseverin are creditedwithhelpingstartthecrewed-boatcharteringindustryinVirgin Massachusetts onSeptember17th,afteranextendedillness.Heandhiswife,Inga, at (876)967-1060. country tofullyexplainthenewlaw. that beforetheendofyear,explanatorysessionswillbeheldthroughout tion withownersisbest,”saystheMaritimeAuthority’sSeymourHarley.Itexpected agreed conditions,theirapplicationandimplications.Webelieveadirectinterac- of this,weseektoensureamechanismisinplaceprovidefairnotificationthe rent dutywasagreeduponandisexpectedtoshortlybecomelaw.“Inanticipation framework fortheadmissionintoJamaicaofsuchvesselswithoutthreatcur- the CustomsDepartmentandrepresentativesofpleasure-boatingcommunity,a tering inJamaica.ThroughacollaborativeeffortinvolvingtheMaritimeAuthority, vessels inothercountriesbecauseofthepossibledutyimplicationsrelatedtoregis- the country.ManyJamaicanpleasure-craftownershavepreferredtoregistertheir the requirementsofnewlegislationrequiringregistrationboatsnormallyresidentin &Updates Info In theearly1960s,DykeandIngatookavacationtoCaribbean,decided John VanDyke‘Dyke’Wilmerding,91,ofSt.Thomas,USVI,passedawayinBoston, Eight Bells Thanks toErrolFlynnMarina’sDocklinesforinformationinthisreport. Specific questionsshouldbedirectedtotheMaritimeAuthorityofJamaica The MaritimeAuthorityofJamaicaisseekingtofamiliarizelocalboatownerswith Jamaica SeekstoRegisterLocalBoats Mandoo . Dykere-christenedthecruiser/racerketch until 1973,whentheysoldherandpurchasedaGallant53called Mandoo , andspentayearrepairingrefurbishingthe Zulu Warrior . DykeandInga freecruisingguides.com andavailableforpurchaseinEbookformat. Cruising GuidetotheABCIslands and asacoupleheIngawereone-off!” skippers Ihavemetinmy55yearsofknowingcharterskippers.Hewasaone-off knew everybody,andeverybodylovedthem.” his half-dressedspousetotheignominyofabrieflyopencompartmentdoor! allow anagileoccupanttoescapethroughtheforwarddeckhatchwithoutsubjecting things werefashionable;andtheperfectplacementofasingle-stepfootrestthatwould and thereforealsosimple—windscoopfortheforwardhatch,perfectedbeforesuch complicated yetbeautifullysimplefoldingboardingladder;awonderfullyefficient— and redesignsthathadevolvedaboard “Dyke andIwerebothengineers,soobviouslyadmiredsomeofthecleverdesigns the ApolloProgram’sLunarExcursionModule.PastcharterguestDonMalpasssays, 35 yearsIhavebeeninthebusiness,fewothersevencomeclose.” charter business.Asfarashavingheartandethicscompetencejoy,inthe St. Thomas. renowned beachbar. —Continuedonnextpage visiting intheirownrightandthatcruisingsailorswillfindtheminterestingsafe. to manyotherpointsinanydirection”.Hedemonstratesclearlythattheyareworth relative totheentireCaribbeanSeamakesthemcentrallysituatedandconvenient ed northofVenezuela.Theauthorstatesthatthe“uniquelocationABCislands cruising experiencetohelpcruisersnavigateandaroundthesethreeislandslocat- In Catherine Hebsonreports:FreeCruisingGuides.comannouncesthereleaseof Free CruisingGuidetotheABCIslands Don Streetconcurs:“Dykewascertainlythemostlovedbyall,ofallcharter “The otherthingIrememberisthat,nomatterwhereweanchored,DykeandInga Dyke hadonceworkedforGrummanAerospaceandwasinvolvedindesignwork In the1990s,DykeandIngasold For moreinformationonFreeCruisingGuidesseeadpage31. A CruisingGuidetotheABCIslands by FrankVirgintino,downloadablefreeatwww. Zulu Warrior , the author offers insights based on his long , theauthoroffersinsightsbasedonhislong Zulu. I particularly remember the elegantly Iparticularlyremembertheelegantly

, andlivedinretirementatRedHook, DON MALPASS DON when and Ingafor30years,from says, “IworkedwithDyke Wallis WhiteYachtCharters a client tomakethejump tion andfriendshiptogeta huge commitmenttotradi- art towhenitreallytooka and ateamplayerinthe years. Hewasagentleman de-humanized inrecent sadly commercializedand industry, whichhasbeen the exampleforcharter crew. DykeandIngaset Ann-Wallis WhiteofAnn- real yachtwitha Zulu wasstate-of-the- real A

NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 . www.safetyandsecuritynet.com/needhelp.htm The Tobago Cays Marine Park’s brochure requests that yachtspeople take their own brochure requests that yachtspeople take their own The Tobago Cays Marine Park’s In September, indiscriminate dumping in the Ashton Lagoon’s mangrove area set the Ashton Lagoon’s mangrove indiscriminate dumping in In September, For more information visit www.susgren.com. Cruisers’ Site-ings Security website contains an alphabetical island-by- • The Caribbean Safety and transatlantic time rolls around again, it’s worth read- • Cruiser Tony Beks writes, “As Keels’ Cruisers Provide ‘Meals from Children’s Education Fund (CCEF), through its Judy Evans repots: The Carriacou voluntary group of individ- The Carriacou Children’s Education Fund is an informal, assist several schools in a During this time, CCEF has raised over EC$185,000 to trash from yachts. While some dispose of this trash properly, others dump it on thethis trash properly, others dump While some dispose of trash from yachts. the Southern was highlighted recently in or waterway. This problem nearest beach generated by have been dumping trash some boat operators Grenadines, where on Union Island. fragile Ashton Lagoon in the environmentally unwitting yachtspeople Grenadines Inc. to a clean-up, Sustainable in motion. In addition community action Association con- Grenadines Water Taxi with the Southern (SusGren) in collaboration of EC$5,000 to remind dumpers of the fine posted in the area structed a signboard people to SusGren also encourages US$2,000) if caught dumping. (approximately in the anyone dumping garbage authorities if they see report to the relevant Lagoon area. garbage with them when they leave the park. It can be properly disposed of in bins leave the park. It can be properly disposed of in garbage with them when they Island. near the wharf at Clifton, Union — contacts — telephone, VHF channel and e-mail island listing of useful emergency police, coast guard, search-and-rescue organizations for Customs offices, hospitals, and more. Find it at to issues from a skipper’s point of view when it comes ing this blog. It really nails the crossing. It’s also humorous: pick-up crew for an ocean www.yachtmollymawk.com/2011/03/h.” again been able to make a contribution to the annual fundraising efforts, has Lunch Program through the “Meals from Keels” Harvey Vale Government School’s lunches for a number of project. This is the sixth year that CCEF has provided hot has been able to assist Harvey Vale students unable to pay for their lunch. CCEF yachtsmen and CCEF over one hundred children so far. As one of the long-time participants says, “It’s our neighborhood school.” number of concerned local uals from visiting yachts from around the world and a activities during the last business people. From 2000 to 2011 CCEF held fundraising Yacht Club. This year the week of July or the first week of August at the Carriacou Fountain and After CCEF fundraising activities were held at Tanty Lizzie’s Seaside Carriacou Regatta Festival Ours Night Club. CCEF fundraising coincides with the each year. provide lunches, school 50/50 partnership to establish computer labs as well as Community College. The uniforms, back packs and scholarships to TA Marryshow to fill the gap between mission of CCEF is to help as many children as possible and what their families what is required for a child to receive a proper education can provide. —Continued on next page

CONSTANCE ELSON Continued from previous page Continued from See the full report at www.noonsite.com. Yacht Trash Environmental Group Tackles the islands, local boat operators will offer to dispose ofIn many places throughout Armed Yacht Robbery at Taganga, Colombia Armed Yacht three cruisers Noonsite, on September 24th an October 2nd report on According to One of the victims wrote, “Do not check in while in Taganga Bay. The check-in pro- One of the victims wrote, “Do weeks so your boat becomes a fixture in the bay — cess [there] takes one to two in Santa Marta is the only secure alternative.” not a good idea. The marina were victims of an armed attack and robbery on board their yacht while anchored on board their yacht an armed attack and robbery were victims of yachts com- favorite stopover for cruising Taganga Bay is a in the bay of Taganga. clearance. and waiting for Colombian from the Eastern Caribbean ing to Colombia — NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 ly offeredtotakethekidsoutwhentalkingTonyBeksfrom Sindbad was theirfirstsailingexperience. Admiralty Bayinanoldsprit-riggedlifeboatwithsomevisitingyachties.Formany,it the opportunitytogosailinginthreegroupsonSeptember17th,18thand19th to financiallysupportthefreelessonsforAntiguanschoolchildren. The Academywillalsoofferprivatelessonstoindividualsandgroups,whichhelp due course,andreachagoalof150childrenweeklearningtosailatthisfacility. School atBolans.TheAcademyhopestogettenschoolsontotheprogrammein boats andequipmentaramphasbeenbuilttolaunchthesailingdinghies. ty, locatedatJollyHarbourMarina.Anareahasbeendesignatedforstorageof the peopleofCarriacouforwarmwelcomealwaysreceived. local populationwhosupportCCEF,andistheyachts’wayofsaying“thankyou”to cases. Successisduetothehardworkandgenerosityofvisitingyachts — two-foot garfishonthetrollinglinethathappycrewweretakingturnstending. Bay andacrosstoDevil’sTablepoint.JustoffHamilton,RaphaelMorgancaughta was volunteeringattheschool. Since itsinception,CCEFhasprovidedassistancetowardsthisgoal The lifeboatisthetendertobeautiful90-foot,80-year-old,Dutch-builtgaffer Students fromtheSunshineSchoolforChildrenwithSpecialNeedsinBequiahad Bequia’s SunshineSchoolGoesSailing For moreinformationvisitwww.nationalsailingacademy.org. The firststudentsforthisbranchoftheAcademyarefromSt.Mary’sSecondary In September,theAntiguaNationalSailingAcademyopeneditsfirstsatellitefacili- Antigua NationalSailingAcademy’sNewBase On theMonday,windwaslight,butthereenoughtosailwellintoLower Continued frompreviouspage , ownedbyveteransailorsBethannandDougHazleton.TheHazletonskind- S/V RaginCajun

in hundredsof , who juniors (maximumtenphotosaday). charge forphotossubmittedjudgingofEC$5perphotoadultsandEC$1 scheduled. domino tournament,beachpartyandmusicbyDJRenéIsaacabonfireare Laurena, andalotmoresurprises. Grand ViewHotel,dinnersfortwoatrestaurants,afreenightHotel Board ofTourismtopromotethetri-islandstatefor2013,aweekendtwoat Adult categories.AmongtheprizesareuseofwinningpicturesbyGrenada ing withajudgingpanelawardingprizestowinningphotographersinJuniorand part inthreedaysofexplorationandphotographyacrossauniqueisland,culminat- community. Thefestivalpresentsanopportunityforphotographyenthusiaststotake 11th inassociationwiththeGrenadaBoardofTourismandisland’sbusiness ty boat:“Youguyshaveprovidedalife-rememberedexperienceforourstudents.” and takingphotos,Robin“Fixman”Simpsonforsupplyinghisdorytouseassafe- for thestudents,JessicaMoriartyandBethanneHazletondrivingsafetyboat relaxing ontheboat.” noons theyeverhad. issuing theinstructions. Sunshine Sailors.ThejibsheettendingwasacommunityeffortwithCaptainDoug more spirited.Theoldlifeboatheelednicely,raisingwhoopsofexcitementfromthe The TuesdayandWednesdayhadtento15knotsonoff,sothesailingwas and TortugalMarinaofGuatemala,allintheMarketPlacesection. Martinique, onpage11;andHarmonySuitesofSt.Lucia,LiveLobstersBequia, In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! For moreinformationvisitwww.carriacouphotofestival.org. The costofregistrationisonlyEC$20peradultandEC$5forjuniors. Be partofthisweekendfun:seminars,beachvolleyballgames,crabraces, Carriacou’s inauguralphotographyfestivalwilltakeplaceNovember9ththrough Carriacou PhotoFestivalthisMonth The SunshineSchoolwouldliketothankDougHazletonforawonderfulexperience Tracey: “IenjoyedlookingatthewaterandalsogreatviewofBequia.” Helen: “Ienjoyedlookingatthewaterandwaitingforbreezetomovealong.” Ashanka: “Thesailingexperiencewasreallygood.Thecoolatmospherevery Raquel: “Ienjoysailingontheboatandfishing.” Walsh: “Ienjoycatchingthefish.” Damien: “Ienjoyedsailingontheboat.” Tiffany: “Ienjoyedfishing.” Ackelia: “Ienjoyedsailingandlookingatthefishesturtle.” Jason Williams:“Ienjoyedsailingandpullingtheboatsail.” Michael: “Ienjoyedtherideandfishing.” Travis: “CaptainDougisagoodsailor.” Krista: “Theboatridewaslotsoffun.” Raphael: “IenjoyedtherideandsailingboatwhenIcaughtfish.” Trevon: “Ienjoyedlookingatthewater.” Tevin: “Ienjoysailingandwatchingtheboat.” No onewantedtogobackshoreandallvoteditwasofthebestfunafter- Good tohaveyouwithus! Compass wewelcomenewadvertisersSDVYachtTransportof

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NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 et › Water and electricity and Water › › intern broadband Free › 24-hour security › 24-hour › Haul-out and technical facilities nearby › restaurant Bar, and swimming pool on-site assistance › Berthing › Only ﬁve miles from the international airport

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| waters that surround it, it, surround waters that d quality you would associate TURKEY | MALTA MALTA | ITALY ITALY | Contact us today for our new high season rates Call Danny Donelan on +1 (473) 435 7431 or email [email protected] a quintessential Grenadian flavour. activities ashore and afloat. Everything afloat. activities Grenada and about ashore appointed, full-service marinas in the region. Providing is vibrant – from the crystal clear of course the rhythms and aromas that exemplify breathtaking diving, nature reserves and a host of sporting host of a reserves and nature diving, breathtaking the international standards an standards international the the local lifestyle. the most unspoilt cruising destinations in the Caribbean, Caribbean, the in destinations cruising most unspoilt the to the colours of the roofs the in historic and capital, Here you will find secluded coves, scintillating beaches, beaches, scintillating coves, secluded find will you Here Known popularly as ‘the Grenada spice island’, is one of with Camper & Nicholsons Marinas, Port Louis retains where you and your friends will enjoy a genuine warm islanders. fun-loving and engaging the from welcome WWW.CNMARINAS.COM/PLM ABU DHABI At Port Louis Marina you will experience one of the best NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 —Continuedonnextpage Program, asemi-permanentoptionforyachts lookingforlonger-termdockage. roam theIGYnetworkforoneupfrontdiscounted price,aswelltheHomePort wide dockageprogramsincludetheCaribbean AnchorPass,wherevesselscan captains andownersaccumulateredeem pointsfordockage.Othernetwork- a hostofbenefits,includingtheIGYAnchor Club,themarinaloyaltyprogramwhere Santa MartainColombiaandnow,Red Frog BeachMarinainPanama. include MarinaCaboSanLucasinMexico, MarinaPapagayoinCostaRica, of IGYMarinas.CentralandSouthAmericanmarinaswithinthenetworknow explore withtheCaribbeanAnchorPass,”saysKennyJones,ExecutiveVicePresident Central andSouthAmerica,givingourcustomersaccesstoanotherregion Strategically, wehavesignificantlygrownournetworkwithintheemergingmarket of and amenitiesmakeitatrulyexcitingdestinationforourcustomerstoexplore. transportation intoBocasTown(just15minutesaway)isavailableaswell. best” bathhousetheyhaveevervisited. from thepreviousbathroomsandseveralboatershavementionedthatthisis“the able lounge,hasbeencompletedattheMarinaVillage.Thisisamajorupgrade new full-servicebathhouse,whichoffersself-servicelaundryfacilitiesandacomfort- expand withadocksidebar,fuelservicesandcapacityformuchlargervessels.The National MarineParkthatislistedasaUNESCOWorldHeritageSite. instead, itishometonativevillages,renownedforitsbiodiversityandincludesa marina islocated,canonlybereachedbyboatandtherearenocarsontheisland; the closestmarinastocanalcateringmegayachts.IslaBastimentos,where zone, themarinaliesjust133nauticalmilesfromPanamaCanal,makingitone of Marina inBocasdelToro,Panama.Restingaprotectedbayoutsidethehurricane marta.com.co orseeadonpage29. tanks dayornightattherecentlyinstalledfuelstation. the marina,enjoyrestaurantdiningandshopping.Now,youcantopupyourfuel improved Minimarket,offeringtop-qualityserviceinspacioussurroundings.Alsoat Classic, theOceanMasterandUltralight. the tropics. there currentlyisand,withitsUVresistantproperties,highlyrecommendedforusein The dinghiesusetheORCA®hypalonfabric—consideredbestboat strong butalsosafeandwillprovideyouwithasoft,dryrideunrivalledstability. sturdy andreliable.Thoroughlytested,theyliveuptotheirexcellentreputation. Australia, theHighfielddinghiesarewellknowntobeextremelyhardwearing,tough, Aluminium dinghyrangeintotheirColeBay,St.Maarten,store.Originatingin market servicethroughhighlytrainedlocaldealers. from theUSVIthroughtoTrinidad&Tobago,PartsPowerofferunbeatableafter- in theEasternCaribbean.WithlargestdealershipnetworkCaribbean, ry, theyarethelargestsupplierofdieselengines,generators,partsandaccessories industrial needsoftheCaribbeanforover30years.WithUS$1millionininvento- the qualityandresponsivenessthattheyrequire.” working withworld-renownedOEMmanufacturers,isprovidingourcustomers ing themostpopularhorsepowerranges.This,combinedwithourinsistenceononly for marineenginesinrecentmonths.Wehavealwaysmaintainedapolicyofstock- Gerker commented,“Wearedelightedwiththeincreasedinterestandorderbook Barbados, St.VincentandDominica,aswellintheBVI.ManagingDirectorTom marine enginesandtransmissionsduringthesummer.Ordershavebeensecuredin er.com, [284]494-2830)formoreinformation. come first-servedbasisforcurrentstock.ContactParts&Power(info@partsandpow- (86Hp) Perkinsmarineengines:theyareofferingafive-percentdiscountonfirst- BUSINESS BRIEFS Red Frogalsointroducesanewmanagement team:MarinaManagerDavid By joiningtheIGYMarinasnetwork,RedFrog BeachMarinaguestsarenowprivyto “IGY isprivilegedtoaddRedFrogBeachMarinathenetwork;itsuniquelocation A helipadislocatedadjacenttothemarina,andcomplimentaryWiFiboat Currently abletoaccommodatevesselsup250feet,themarinaplans IGY Marinashasannouncedthemostrecentadditiontoitsnetwork,RedFrogBeach Panama’s RedFrogBeachJoinsIGYMarinasNetwork For moreinformationvisitMarinaSantaMarta’snewwebsiteatwww.marinasanta- Cruising theSpanishMain?StopatMarinaSantaMartaandvisitnew Expanded ServicesatColombia’sMarinaSantaMarta For moreinformationonIslandWaterWorldseeadpage48. Island WaterWorldcurrentlystocksthreeoftheHighfielddinghymodels: Designed withachromatedandpowder-coatedaluminiumbottomtheyare Island WaterWorldispleasedtoannouncethenewarrivalofHighfield New AluminiumDinghiesatIslandWaterWorld,St.Maarten For moreinformationseeadonthispage. Parts &PowerLtdwasfoundedin1973andhasbeenservingthemarine Parts &Power,basedinTortola,BritishVirginIslands,hassecuredseveralordersfor Parts &Powerhasannouncedanend-of-summersaleontheever-popularM92 Parts &PowerMarineEngineSales NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9

RICHARD ALLEN MCINTYRE Continued from previous page Panama’s Red Frog Marina has a new manager and Frog Marina has a new manager Panama’s Red with the IGY Marinas network a new affiliation Continued from previous page Continued from Men and women of all ages love the simple ease of operation and the lightweight, CraigCat’s clean, uncluttered deck layout allows for a multitude of options, includ- Resorts and rental operators are adding CraigCats tours for their guests and cus- For more information see ad on page 45. Paul Dadd Named Manager of Errol Flynn Marina, Jamaica The Port Authority of Jamaica has named Paul Dadd as the new manager of the For more information on Red Frog Marina see ad on page 19. For more information on Red Frog Marina see ad on page French–Based Yacht Insurance Available in St. Barth’s Maritimes de Lassee. AMA (Assurances Maritimes Antilles) is a subsidiary of Assurances 1978, they are located in As the specialized pleasure boat insurance leader since Visit their St Barth’s office at Villa Créole n°1 in St. Jean. For more information see ad on page 5. Fun Ride: CraigCats through the back coves, Make fun a priority again! Whether you prefer rambling Dykkesten and his wife Christy. David is a respected journeyman shipwright and for- respected journeyman shipwright his wife Christy. David is a Dykkesten and yet exceptionally stable design that makes trailering, launching and handling a breeze. Whether you want to enjoy a slow and leisurely cruise or a fast-paced, turn- on-dime adventure, the CraigCat delivers! ing a custom full-width fiberglass storage compartment, color fishfinder/GPS/chart- plotter, utility tray for everything from tanks to tackle, from coolers to K-9s. Plus onboard entertainment, including Pro-Spec saltwater rated AM/FM/USB sound system with two-way high definition speakers. The CraigCat runs all day on less than a six-gallon tank of gas; the engine is equipped with full remote and electric tilt. The stick steering and dual-action control system provide for remarkable responsive con- trols and make the CraigCat fun and easy to operate. tomers. You want your guests to always remember their time at your resort — now they’ll never forget with the most unique and unforgettable runabout on the water, the CraigCat Catamaran. The CraigCat watercraft delivers an uncompromising blend of performance, genuine comfort and elite appointments that appeal to your clientele. Seven different models to choose from. Reliable, low maintenance, and low operation cost equals excellent ROI. Errol Flynn Marina and Boatyard at Port Antonio. Paul, of Kingston, is an inveterate sailor and an active member of the Sir Henry Morgan Angling Association, operators of the annual Port Antonio Blue Marlin Tournament. — experience in accounting and customer service with a sunny personality. experience in accounting and St. Barthélémy, La Rochelle and Antibes. scenic coastal beaches, navigating inshore waterways or cruising and diving along is ideal for flats fishing in the CraigCat is long on fun and low on cost. The CraigCat divers, recreational shallow water and is popular among recreational boaters, the CraigCat offers a anglers and pros alike. Whatever your boating preference, beach or from the dock, the model to suit your distinctive lifestyle. Boarding from the and comfort of a bigger CraigCat’s outstanding design offers all the stability, ride Climb aboard with total boat in a sporty, compact and highly affordable package. smoothest ride going! confidence and experience the great escape in the safest, mer marine surveyor with extensive experience in the marine industry. Christy brings in the marine industry. with extensive experience mer marine surveyor — NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 December 7thfrom5.30 “Experience Antigua”aninteractiveexpo thatwillbetakingplaceonFriday — ly. Errol Flynnteamasthe‘bestofbest’.” the outstandingfolkswe’veworkedwithoveryearsandIwilllongremember ing withthebest‘ATeam’I’veeverhad.Weallgothroughlifethinkingofsome 31st. Dalesays,“I’vehadtheprivilegeofmakingnumerouslifelongfriendsandwork- doing round-the-islandsailingaswellcruisestoCubaandtheBahamas. Hurricane Gilbert)Paulintroducedthisvesseltoherplaceinthecharterbusiness, Competition RegistrationwillopenonNovember15th 8th, withoverahundredyachtsalreadyregisteredasofthiswriting.TheChef island willbereadilyavailabletomegayachtcrewsandtheirguests. and more.Top-notchprovisioningwiththecapabilitytobringalmostanything ers readytoorganizeactivities,excursions,rentalvehicles,restaurantreservations room. Theofferingswillbetoppedoffbyanexclusiveconciergeformarinacustom- lounge forcaptainsandcrews,aswellshowers,achartroomcrewwork- Customs andImmigrationservicesamarinaoperationscenterwillfeature structed of15-foot-wideconcretefloatingdocks.Conveniencessuchason-site joined theIGYnetwork. of Miami,BlueHavenMarinaisanidealgatewaytotheCaribbeanandhasjust back totheoriginal12feet,projectedbywinter2013.Located575milessoutheast draft offiveandahalffeet.Plansformaintenancedredgingwillbringitscapacity to openinthesummerof2013yachtsup180feetandinitiallyamaximum updating his information, updatedchartsandpictures.ChrisDoyleplanstospendthiswinter previous edition,whichhadbeeninprintforsixyears.Botharepackedwithnew Cruising GuidetoTrinidadandTobagoplusBarbadosGuyana brokers, pressandvendors. than 25thingstoseeanddoinAntigua, this eventisopentocaptainsandcrew,

Among thespecialeventsatthisvenerable charter-yachtshowcasewillbe New editionsoftwoChrisDoyle’spopularcruisingguideswillbeavailableshort- New EditionsofDoyleFavoritesComing For moreinformationvisiterrolflynnmarina.com. Paul succeedsDaleWestin,whoconcludedfiveyearsinthepositiononOctober In 1989,aftersingle-handedrenovationofa41-footMorgansailboat(derelict The AntiguaCharterYachtShow Antigua CharterYachtShowNextMonth For moreinformationvisitwww.bluehaventci.com. Nearly complete,themarinahasnearly6,000linearfeetofdockageandiscon- Located inProvidencialestheTurks&CaicosIslands,BlueHavenMarinaisslated Opening Soon:BlueHavenMarina,Turks&Caicos For moreinformationseeadonpage33. For moreinformationvisitwww.antiguayachtshow.com. CHRIS DOYLE CHRIS Continued frompreviouspage Sailors GuidetotheWindwardIslands Cruising GuidetotheLeewardIslands PM attheCopper&LumberStoreHotel.Featuring more

2012 willtakeplacefromDecember2ndthrough isseeingitsregulartwo-yearlyupdate. — whenyousee

at 9:00 AM Easterntime. replaces the Ti Kanot , sayhi! NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 In February Birgit Roethel, who previously managed the company’s marketing managed the company’s Roethel, who previously In February Birgit stores in St. Manager for both is the new Store Operations Erwin Rodenburg to numerous the marine circles thanks well-known in Cheryl Benjamin-John, grew up on the Island Water World dock, is the new Brad Taylor, who literally appointed as Warehouse Manager, has greatly Ikan Richardson, just recently are underway or planned for the marina, the Currently various improvements Water World see ad on page 48. For more information on Island through her company Litemoon and who has significant marketing and merchan- has significant marketing Litemoon and who through her company Manager of St. was appointed General in the marine industry, dising experience and joins Sean Group Marketing Portfolio She also carries the Maarten Operations. the Group. and Paul in managing brought his coming from Europe and recently crossed the Atlantic Maarten. He as well as his sales and team leadership in customer service, skills and expertise of boat parts with him. good knowledge in the local marine industry, is the new Store years in different positions Manager for the Cole Bay store and the Bobby’s Administration and Merchandising Marina store. Not only is Brad an expert sailor but his hands- Dock Master and Service Manager. will ensure a job well done. on attitude and local knowledge logistics over the past months and will help to fur- improved Island Water World’s distribution. ther increase efficiencies in store and the yard.

Boosts its its Boosts

and virtual stores are evolving to meet the demand for supplies and equipment and virtual stores are evolving to meet the demand for supplies

Management Team Management This has required a significant investment in inventory, technology and market- This has required a significant investment in inventory, Caribbean Marine Chandlery Group Island Water World continues to evolve into Group Island Water World continues to evolve into Caribbean Marine Chandlery

Right: Boating activity in the Caribbean is growing, and Island Water World’s physicalRight: Boating activity in the Caribbean is growing, and Island Water World World Water Island ing — but most importantly, people. Managing Director Sean Kennelly and Group ing — but most importantly, people. Managing Director infuse the Group with some Operations Manager Paul Rosen realized the need to growth. younger talented leadership to ensure continuity and Above: Human resources. From left, Ikan Richardson, Birgit Roethel, Brad Taylor, Above: Human resources. From left, Ikan Richardson, Birgit Cheryl Benjamin-John and Erwin Rodenburg a modern and significant regional presence with large, full-assortment Marine regional presence with large, full-assortment Marine a modern and significant of Store to meet the demanding requirements Stores and a powerful Online Caribbean sailors. NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 finally granted. ognition andonlythroughherintervention wasit personnel againemphasizedtheirwishfor officialrec- Beatrix, totheislandsinOctoberlastyear, theparks Caribbean. DuringthevisitofHerMajesty, Queen Dutch parks,contrarytoeffortsbeing madeinthe because ofageneraltrendtodecentralize theexisting diction. Therewassomeresistanceinthe Netherlands, Park Statusfortheprotectedareasunder theirjuris- nizations intheDutchCaribbeantoattain National Michael Chamma. the SabaConservationFoundation,representedby Saba BankasDutchNationalParkstotheBoardof officially establishingtheSabaMarineParkand Agriculture andInnovation,presentedcertificates General oftheDutchMinistryEconomicAffairs, National Parks Environment ProgramandTheNatureConservancy. Caribbean EnvironmentProgramoftheUnitedNations Program, withadditionalsponsorshipfromthe ble withsupportfromNOAA’sCoralReefConservation Management NetworkandForum.Itwasmadepossi- tion withtheCaribbeanMarineProtectedAreas the trainingispartofaseriesactivitiesinassocia- Institute andNOAA’sCoralReefConservationProgram, areas. AninitiativeoftheGulfandCaribbeanFisheries law-enforcement needsofCaribbeanmarineprotected narios runonboardavessel. through thetraining,whichincludedenforcementsce- Enforcement International,ledtheparticipants specialist marineresourceprotectionfirm,MPA munity engagement.TrainersfromtheFlorida-based only effectivepolicing,butalsoeducationandcom- islands. Conservationlawenforcementrequiresnot the DominicanRepublicandFrenchCaribbean Wildlife ConservationCommissionandmentorsfrom National MarineSanctuaryandtheFloridaFish as wellbyspeakersfromNOAA,theFloridaKeys staff frommarineprotectedareasfacingsimilarissues, Lucia, St.Vincent&theGrenadinesandGrenada. the DutchislandsofSabaandStatia,fromSt. and BritishVirginIslands,Mexico,BelizeHonduras, managers fromTheBahamas,theUSVirginIslands and stresses.” and threatenedfromhumannaturalactivities Caribbean areconsideredtobethemostvulnerable the mostproductiveinworld,thoseWider “Although coastalandmarineecosystemsareamong NOAA’s OfficeofNationalMarineSanctuaries,says, pollution andpoaching. from over-fishing,visitorpressure,boatgroundings, ever-increasing threatstothemarineenvironment conservation lawenforcementtraininginthefaceof of supporttoMPAs,whohighlightedthesignificance the GulfandCaribbeanFisheriesInstitute’smanager but oftendauntingjobtodo,”explainsEmmaDoyle, Caribbean’s marineresourceshaveavitallyimportant, ening lawenforcementforcoralreefconservation. from August27thto31stsharepracticesforstrength- around theCaribbeancametogetherinFloridaKeys Law Enforcement Caribbean Marine ECO-NEWS It wasalongprocessfortheparkmanagementorga- On September24th,AnnemieBurger,Director Saba MarineParkandBankNowDutch For [email protected]. This wasthefirstsuchregionalefforttoaddress Local enforcementexperiencesweresharedamong The workshopparticipantsincludedparkrangersand Dr. BillyCausey,SoutheastRegionalDirectorof “Those whoworkonthefrontlinesofprotecting Twenty-two marineparkmanagersandrangersfrom Enhancing CaribbeanMarineConservation

SUSTAINABLE GRENADINES INC —Continuedonnextpage from reefpredators. open stretchofterrain,thehousesalso offerrefuge tailored fordifferentreefinhabitants.Located onan a varietyofrooms,spaces,hideawaysand texturesall marine biologists,thesculptordesigned the unitswith house individualmarinespecies.Working withlocal series ofsuburbandwellingsspecifically designedto the MUSAcollectionentitled“UrbanReef”. Itdepictsa art attractionsintheworld. size sculpturesandisoneofthelargestunderwater deCaires Taylor,consistsofover450permanentlife- Diaz ofTheCancunNauticalAssociationandJason Gonzalez CanoofTheNationalMarinePark,Roberto the MexicanCaribbean.Theproject,foundedbyJaime surrounding Cancun,IslaMujeresandPuntaNizucin (Museo SubacuáticodeArte)wasformedinthewaters habitats ontheendpointsofitsmigratoryroute. same populationofmarinemammalsatitscritical 2006, wastheworld’sfirstagreementtoprotect ary programwiththeDominicanRepublic,createdin Antilles intheCaribbean.Stellwagen’ssistersanctu- ment withFranceforthewatersaroundFrench Stellwagen sanctuarysignedasisteragree- ment becameeffectiveonSeptember21st. ing/calving groundsintheCaribbeanSea.Theagree- migrations betweenNewEnglandwatersandbreed- tion ofendangeredhumpbackwhalesontheirannual a “sistersanctuary”agreementtosupporttheprotec- mal sanctuary. recently declareditsterritorialwatersamarinemam- Sanctuary inNewEngland,andBermuda,whichhas between NOAA’sStellwagenBankNationalMarine along theirmigratorycorridorwithanewpartnership Camagüey ArchipelagoinCuba. Sensitive SeaAreaintheCaribbeanisSabana- ships. TheonlyotherIMO-designatedParticularly MARPOL dischargeandequipmentrequirementsfor such asrouteingmeasures,strictapplicationof used tocontrolthemaritimeactivitiesinthatarea, area isapprovedasaPSSA,specificmeasurescanbe session fromOctober1stto5thinLondon.Whenan Maritime Organization(IMO),whenitmetforits64th Environment ProtectionCommitteeoftheInternational Particularly SensitiveSeaAreabytheMarine aggregations andcetaceans. the biodiversityofmarineresources,spawning research onevaluatingthefisheries’status,studying vessel willalsobeusedtoassistscientistswiththeir submarine atoll,oneofthelargestinworld.The unexplored marinehabitatsofthe2,200-kilometre assessing andmonitoringthehealthofrelatively efforts. Theboatisequippedforgeneralsurveillance, Alliance andstrongsupporterofnatureconservation who isthepatronofDutchCaribbeanNature by HerMajesty,QueenBeatrixoftheNetherlands, Advisor oftheMinistry,HayoHaanstra,andapproval Queen Beatrix was officiallylaunched.Thevesselhasbeennamed international levels. ter protectionandrecognitiononthenational big environmentalawareness! Union IslandintheGrenadines—asmallislandwith Caribbean participated.Herearetheresultsfrom 15th, andthousandsofpeoplethroughoutthe economies. CoastalCleanupDay2012wasSeptember endangers thehealthofhumans,wildlifeandcoastal Coastal CleanupDay,volunteerspickuptrashthat International CoastalCleanupDay On theOceanConservancy’sannualInternational A newseriesofsculptureshasnowbeen addedto In 2009anunderwatermuseumcalledMUSA Submerged SculpturesAttractSeaLife For moreinformationvisithttp://stellwagen.noaa.gov. This isanewlinkinchain.InAugust2011,the NOAA andtheGovernmentofBermudahavesigned Protection forhumpbackwhaleshasbeenextended Protection ExtendedforHumpbackWhales For moreinformationvisitwww.sabapark.org. The SabaBankwasformallydesignatedasa On thesamedate,SabaBankNationalParkboat National Parkstatusbringsincreasedattention,bet- uponsuggestionbySeniorPolicy NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13

Port of Spain, of Spain, Port Fax: (868) 627 3056 Fax: Trinidad & Tobago, WI Tobago, Trinidad & Our commitment is can get back to work to work can get back Slipway 1800 Tons 1800 Slipway Wetdock Pier 250ft. Pier 250ft. Wetdock Phone: (868) 625 2927 / 2962 Phone: as quickly as possible! as quickly Drydock Beam 55ft. Drydock Beam 55ft. www.maritimepreservation.net to get the job done right [email protected] [email protected] the first time so your shipthe first time so your Drydock Length 300ft. Drydock Length 300ft. Slipway Guide Jetty, St. Vincent Street St. Guide Jetty, Slipway Drydock 18ft Depth Draft SHIP REPAIR REPAIR SHIP & DRY DOCK & DRY SERVICES AVAILABLE AVAILABLE SERVICES • Steel Work (Crop & Renew) (Crop & Renew) Work • Steel • Sandblasting Work and Paint Works • Pipe • Diesel Engine Installation and Repairs • Electrical • Woodwork • Machine Shop • Refrigeration Terrance B. runway at Beef Island,

Airport An artist’s impression of the proposed runway A petition against the airport extension is available at New Chair for Carriacou Marine Park Allison Caton, Tourism Development Officer for For more information visit http://siobmpa.org. Focus Your Camera on Seabirds! If you’re planning a coastal transit or offshore pas- Instructions and tally sheets are available at http:// Please join the count and contribute much-needed The project by the Union Island Environmental by the Union Island Environmental The project by the Canadian The project is being funded the Union Island For more information contact Kids’ Page New Online Caribbean Environment Environment THE United Nations Caribbean the sustainable “As CEP continues to promote The website attempts to convey a message through Visit the Kids’ Page ‘Save Trellis Bay’ Petition Available There reportedly are plans afoot in the British Virgin Tortola by 3,000 feet. Some residents feel that the current airstrip is sufficient for the BVI’s needs and that a longer runway of the proposed size will lead to the deg- radation of Trellis Bay, a popular yacht anchorage. www.avaaz.org/en/petition/Save_Trellis_Bay. Carriacou and Petite Martinique in the Grenada Board of Tourism, has been elected Chairperson of the Sandy Island Oyster Bed Marine Protected Area (SIOBMPA) Management Board in Carriacou. The marine park board’s outgoing chair is Davon Baker. sage in November, December or January, contribute to the 2012 SeaBC Sea Bird Count. The SeaBC was cre- ated to raise awareness among long-distance boaters from around the world to record their seabird observa- tions. Last year’s inaugural count spanned 100 degrees of latitude from Maine to Antarctica. This year they’re encouraging mariners to take digital photos of birds seen at sea. tinyurl.com/SeaBC, or at facebook.com/Birding. Aboard, where you also can share your photographs and sightings with other birders aboard. All data goes to eBird (www.eBird.org), a worldwide resource for scientists and conservation groups. information about pelagic birds! effects of drought. The average annual rainfall of The average annual effects of drought. are not is relatively low. Droughts Union Island or pro- could become more frequent uncommon and to climate change. longed owing Sustainable in collaboration with Attackers (UIEA) 100 residents aims to provide Grenadines (SusGren) Collins, with a water tank. Katrina on Union Island water stor- UIEA, says, “An increased president of the to better Union Island will contribute age capacity on for residents, in particu- health and safety conditions households.” lar those living in low-income Agency under its Canada International Development Fund. Caribbean Disaster Risk Management at (784) 496-0736 or Environmental Attackers at (784) 485-8779. Sustainable Grenadines Inc its new online Kids’ Programme (CEP) has launched about coastal and Page, designed to build knowledge website’s young visitors. marine resources among its place on the UNEP CEP The official site launch took on September 15th. website, www.cep.unep.org, Sea, one of the pri- development of the Caribbean to protect coastal and mary emphases is the need to control, prevent and marine biodiversity and reduce marine pollution,” says Chrishane Williams, team assistant for the CEP Sub-programme on Communication, Education, Training, and Awareness. “The CEP Kids’ Page identifies several issues relating to the endangerment of our marine resources and raises an awareness of the need to change our attitudes and behavior so that we can become environment stewards from an early age,” she explained. visual images and a range of fun, interactive activities designed to engage the young visitor on marine pollution, biodiversity and environmental education. It also offers games, e-colouring, e-books, information on biodiversity, pollution, as well as a resource area that leads to other sources of children’s environmental activities. at http://cep.unep.org/childrens-corner. Islands to increase the length of the Lettsome International

Compass , a Viking 52, won Club Gaviota Continued from previous page Continued from Water Storage for a Dry Island Sailors aren’t the only ones who carefully store their For more information “Expect the tradition to continue next year for our 60th In addition to its partnership with the National Club Nautico de San Juan’s 59th International Puerto Rico Tournament a Winner in Jason deCaires Taylor’s underwater sculptures can Jason deCaires Taylor’s underwater Another 50 figurative pieces have been added to “The pieces have been added Another 50 figurative precious fresh water in tanks. In September, environmental groups launched a project on Union Island in the notoriously dry Grenadines with the goal of increasing water storage capacity to adapt to the visit http://sanjuaninternational.com/V3. Anniversary,” says tournament chair, Miguel Donato. Geographic Society, the IBT welcomed professionals from The Billfish Foundation and the International Game Fishing Association. In addition to the successful Crittercam deployments, several pop-up archival satellite tags were also placed in released blue marlin. Five tags placed in last year’s tournament have already been recovered. The furthest was placed by late Puerto Rican captain Mike Benitez; it popped up 4,776 nautical miles away off the coast of Angola, Africa, nearly four months later. images of these fish in their natural environment. Billfish Tournament concluded on September 30th Billfish Tournament concluded on September 30th with 102 blue marlin releases. The event also achieved a milestone in billfish conservation history by being the first tournament to partner with the National Geographic Society in the deployment and recovery of billfish “Crittercams” six successful times to capture Billfish Conservation for news from there. also be seen in Grenada. See next month’s also be seen in Grenada. See Silent Evolution” installation on the Manchones reef installation on the Manchones Silent Evolution” The entire Cancun and Isla Mujeres. system between which have comprises 450 sculptures, artwork now on the incrementally to inform visitors been installed portraits, of reef evolution. The new various stages aim to members of the community, cast from local with nature. symbiosis of humans depict the integral — Nothing to weigh! Nautico de San Juan’s 59th International Billfish Tournament’s Top Boat trophy by being the first to release six blue marlin NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 rating rulehascontinuedtoworkwellasameasure- the startofseason. boards andwillamendtheruleasnecessarypriorto standing rigging,swingkeelsandasymmetricdagger date changesinnewsailcutsanddesigns,carbon CSA measurersarereviewingtheruletoaccommo- tinuity asboatsraceinregattasacrosstheregion. tain thatitisthesameacrossallislandstoensurecon- and toassesstheinterpretationofrulebecer- new technologyandchangesinboatconfigurations ensure thewrittenruleeffectivelytakesaccountof Grenada andSt.Thomas.Theirobjectivewasto Barbados, St.Maarten,theBritishVirginIslands, of the2013racingseason. Antigua fortheirannualreviewmeetinginadvance Sailing Association(CSA)measurerscongregatein REGATTA NEWS Having beeninuseformorethan50years,theCSA The managersoftheCSAratingruletraveledfrom September 21stthrough23rdsawtheCaribbean Measurers ReviewCSARulefor2013RacingSeason the return of Dick Stoute in Barbados, a former chief the returnofDickStouteinBarbados,aformerchief ment oftheCSAratingrule.The2013seasonalsosees the 2012Olympicstofocusonceagainonmanage- chief measurerforsomeyears,hasnowreturnedfrom Caribbean. DaviddeVries,internationaljudgeand of experiencefrombothwithinandoutsidethe ing season350certificateswereissued. and measureboatsregularly.Duringthe2011/12rac- can easilydealwithanyissuesthatarise,andassess measurers areonthegroundateachregattathey ment rulethroughouttheCaribbean.Because Within the measurement team there are literally years Within themeasurementteamthereareliterallyyears Photo atleft:CSAmeasurersaboard America II alongside thelikesof ‘two-bow’ sailedproudly Liberty. TheBequia-built sails This photo:GladwinTaylor at theNewYorkClassic Irie pasttheStatueof and Ticonderoga

Rambler —Continuedonnextpage her 18-footerclassinthe2009BequiaEasterRegatta. Irie through 8th.DavidTaylorandGladwinsailed showing inNewYorkClassicWeek,October6th www.caribbean-sailing.com. uploaded totheCSAwebsite measurer withyearsofmeasurementexperience. A Bequia“two-bow”double-endermadeafine Bequia BoatShinesinNewYorkClassic Changes madeaheadofthe2013seasonwillbe , whichwasbuiltbyOrbinOllivierreanddominated NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15

PYFC remains focused on its junior sailing program PYFC remains focused on its For more information visit www.discoverpyfc.com. Enter Now! La Course de l’Alliance 2012 The 9th La Course de l’Alliance Regatta runs from long. Puerto Rican tradition dictates that the party tradition dictates that long. Puerto Rican which the last bottle of rum is gone, won’t end until Q Rum is one of the main will take some time as Don will be windward-leeward sponsors! The race courses marks for the for the race division, and regulatory for participants to enjoy cruising class. PYFC is proud of the club. the newly renovated facilities the Discover the and later in the month expects to serve as a fun weekend Caribbean Dinghy Regatta for aspiring sailors to display their skills on the water. Scheduled for November 23rd through 25th, the dinghy regatta will have Sunfish, Optimist, Snipe and Laser divisions. Puerto Rico’s junior champions will be competing along with other top Caribbean juniors, ensuring fierce competition for the podium. November 23rd through 25th. Challenging and fun courses take you to St. Martin, St. Maarten, St. Barth’s and Anguilla, with the yacht clubs of these islands working together to organize starts and finishes at the different destinations. The regatta is open to classes including monohull cruising, monohull racing and multihull. Each day a dinner gathering provides time for relaxation, camaraderie, and strategy plotting. —Continued on next page

&/+0: $0.& (3&"540$*"- 1-"//&%'03 '6/$5*0/4"3& 5)&'6/ '3* 4"546/ Canfield joins a list of winners that includes Russell a list of winners that includes Canfield joins second US Virgin Taylor Canfield becomes the Regatta 2012 This Month: 20th St. Croix International St. Croix International The 20th anniversary of the racing along St. Croix’s Expect three days of great For more information visit www.stcoixyc.com. Two Weekends: Discover Caribbean Regattas in While others may have spent their summer dodging Participants in this year’s Discover the Caribbean ment on his future Alpari World Match Racing Tour inten- Alpari World Match Racing ment on his future Johnnie 7th, taking a 3-0 victory over tions on October Bermuda. Argo Group Gold Cup in Berntsson at the with their Gilmour and Ben Ainslie, all Coutts, Peter King Edward on the side of the historic names etched appear more Canfield is now looking to VII Gold Cup. in the com- top table of match racing regularly at the event said: “This is the most prestigious ing years. He Coutts and to join names like Russell we’ve ever won I guess that’s a good on the trophy with seven wins, in the next few years.” goal for us to try and aim at Peter Holmberg lifted Islander to win the event since the trophy in 2001. 9th through 11th. The Regatta will run from November out all stops to draw regatta committee has pulled Caribbean and the upper sailors from throughout the 48 States. Channel, and live music north shore and Buck Island be weighed on St. Croix every night. Class winners will Rum Scales! The scales Yacht Club’s famous Cruzan originally built for date back 20 years and were weighing of a winning Mumm’s Champagne — the In 1992, Peter Holmberg skipper is a Mumm’s tradition. to get his weight in was the first winning skipper Champagne. Today, winning skippers are weighed in Cruzan Rum. Puerto Rico hurricanes, the Race Committee of Ponce Yacht and Fishing Club was busy planning another exciting Discover Caribbean Series Regatta. This year, they’ll pack plenty of racing and parties into one weekend, November 9th through 11th, with a feeder race from Fajardo to Salinas scheduled for November 3rd. Series will be treated to proper Puerto Rican hospitali- ty, including complimentary boat slips from November 3rd to December 2nd. All racers have complimentary breakfasts and dinners during the regatta and live entertainment to keep the party going all weekend

: ND Check SLYC Website for prgress on “FEEDER Website Check SLYC FROM BARBADOS TO RACE” YACHT AT STARTING ST LUCIA, RODNEY BAY, 24. MIDNIGHT ON NOVEMBER INCLUDING

and will race together with & 2 ST CLASSES

shipped to the States. shipped to the was probably the first- Irie Irie YACHT

- SLYC SAILING CAPTAIN Cell : +1758 4841003 SAILING CAPTAIN - SLYC will also receive trophies for 1st, 2nd & 3rd when she chartered in the when she chartered sailed alongside legendary sailed alongside - SAILING COMMITTEE MEMBER Cell : +1758 5187784 SENIOR will also receive trophies for 1st, 2nd & 3rd Irie

if you pay & enter before America II, Black Watch America II, Black ALL

US$100.00 . David says, “My father, Hodge, had . David says, “My DECEMBER I TO

Ticonderoga 4-:$XFCTJUFGPSQBZNFOUEFUBJMT 'SBODL$IFWSJFS XXXTUMVDJBZBDIUDMVCDPN CONTACTS: &EHBS3PF an overall Cash Prize plus Sponsor Trophies on Handicap plus Sponsor Trophies an overall Cash Prize Series for 1st, 2nd & 3rd for the Short Nine Race will receive trophies for 1st, 2nd & 3rd was the talk of the docks, with everybody want- was the talk of the docks, %JTDPVOU &OUSZ'FF November16th. Friday Visit: 4QPOTPST*ODMVEF OPEN THE INAUGURAL ST LUCIA YACHT CLUB THE INAUGURAL ST LUCIA YACHT t4VSQSJTF$MBTT+$MBTT t4VSQSJTF$MBTT t+$MBTT t3BDJOH$SVJTJOH$MBTT:BDIUTQMVT$SVJTJOH$MBTT$BUBNBSBOT Irie Continued from previous page Continued from Virgin Islander Lifts King Edward VII Gold Cup Virgin Islander Lifts King Edward US Virgin Islander Taylor Canfield made a big state- He adds, “The Classic was three days of very light Classic was three days of He adds, “The “ David, who is serving in the US Coast Guard and sta- serving in the US Coast Guard David, who is yachts such as yachts such as sailed on At Classic Week, At Classic Week, Ticonderoga in Bermuda Windwards and rumor has it I may have been con- rumor has it I may have Windwards and very boat!” ceived on that fighting unfamiliar tidal wind and very cold conditions, the hundreds of local currents and large wakes from dressed from head to ferries zipping around. We were with feet constantly toe in dry suits and wool caps Statue of Liberty and soaked. While sailing past the very humbling and a his- the Manhattan skyline it was toric feeling to know that York Harbor. ever Bequia boat to sail New with her construc- ing pics with her and just amazed She has a carbon-fiber tion and sailing performance. mast with all of the sprit and aluminum boom and still uses sandbags for bal- modern-day upgrades but Dennis Connor’s North last. While sitting pierside in of pride sailing with these Cove Marina we felt a sense smiled during the prizegiv- great sailing vessels and we a trophy for our efforts.” ing when we were awarded tioned in Staten Island, had tioned in Staten — NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 www.worldcruising.com/arc. later, therewere60entries. with tenboatsbookinginthefirst50minutes;fivedays 2013: theentrylistwasopenedonSeptember14th, months, withanamazing26launchedin2012. of theARC2012boatswerelaunchedinlast24 Seestermuhe age from1936-vintageboats 28-metre (92-foot)CNBfastcruiser the NorwegianHanse325 on November25th.Thefleet,whichrangesinsizefrom than 230boatsstartinginLasPalmasdeGranCanaria usually inhisorher70s80s. sail withtheARCeveryyear;oldestparticipantis nations. Morethan30childrenundertheageof16 race boatsandcharterfrommorethan20 boats sailingeveryyearareamixoffamilycruisers, Bay inSt.Lucia,over2,700nauticalmilesaway.The from LasPalmasdeGranCanariaboundforRodney Maarten YachtClubat6:30 com/cdla. PrizegivingandpartyareattheSint You canregisteronlinenowathttp://regattaguru. Club MarinaFortLouisRestaurantonNovember22nd. — For moreinformationvisit Sailors arealreadykeentosecuretheirplaceinARC ARC entriesareatrecordhighs,withpotentiallymore The AtlanticRallyforCruisers(ARC)setssailannually Bumper ARCHeadingforSt.Lucia For moreinformationvisitwww.coursedelalliance.com. Registration and skippers’ briefing are at the Yacht Registration andskippers’briefingareattheYacht Continued frompreviouspage is atradition,infamilyboating is atradition,infamilyboating tothelatestlaunches.Eighteenpercent Quickie PM on the Sunday evening. ontheSundayevening. Peregrine to theBritish Bristolian and ; andin Peter von http://stluciayachtclub.com. St. LuciaYachtClubwebsite, ([email protected], [758]484-1003)oronthe [758] 518-7784)orFranckChevrier Edgar Roe([email protected], information andregistrationformsareavailablefrom discount ontheentryfeeofUS$100. registered byNovember16thqualifyforaten-percent November onwards! and spectatorsalikefromtheendof ing forparticipants December therewillbeplentyofsailingandparty- expected toarriveattheendoffirstweekin Marina. WiththefirstboatsfromARCitself back, culminatinginapartyatRodneyBay or motoringfromRodneyBaytoCastriesand large flotillaofboatsallshapesandsizessailing the ARCinCanaryIslandsanditconsistsofa is anannualeventtimedtocelebratethestartof to thewaterinRodneyBayonNovember25th;this Saturday andSunday. at theOceanClubinRodneyBayMarinaon Club ontheFriday,withformalprizegivingparties Skippers’ BriefingbarbecueattheSt.LuciaYacht November 25th. also offeringheavilydiscounteddockingfeesfrom have beendonatedbygeneroussponsors.IGYare for eachofthethreeclasswinners.Manyotherprizes outs —includingpowerwash,antifoulandstorage Surprise classand,fromIGYMarinas,threefreehaul- room forspectators. races willstartandfinishinRodneyBaywithplentyof rans, andJ/24stogetherwithSurpriseClassyachts.All events forracingandcruisingyachtscatama- Martin andBarbadosaredeclaringtheirinterest. across theEasternCaribbeanfromGrenadatoSt. matching theGoldSponsorshipfromIGYMarinas.Sailors have announcedamajorsponsorshipofEC$20,000, Compass and 2ndpromisestobeawinner!Asthisissueof Mango Bowl For moreinformationseeadonpage15.Further Register nowfortheMangoBowlRegatta!Allboats Before theMangoBowl,ARCFlotillawilltake Social activitiesovertheweekendinclude Major prizesincludeacashprizefortheJ/24and The mainMangoBowlRegattawillhaveseparate This inauguralregattainSt.LuciaonDecember1st Huge EnthusiasmforSt.Lucia’sDecember goes to press, the First Citizens Financial Group goestopress,theFirstCitizensFinancialGroup Close to: what wedoandthewayit...... THE DIFFERENCEIS ofSSCA • OfficialCruisingStation • CameraSurveillance 24HourSecurity • WholeAreaPatrolledby isourPrimaryConcern • Safety,CleanlinessandService onDock“A” DeliveredonallSlipsexcept • On-SiteFuelDockandDiesel • WideConcreteFingerPiers • 282FixedSlips • ProfessionalandCourteousStaff Fajardo, PuertoRico Parcelas Beltrán,Bo.Sardinera, E: T: F: or attheAdministrationOfficeMarina, —Continuedonnextpage international andlocalcompanieskeentosponsor… Support forthiseventhasbeenverypositive,with racing sailors,butthefunsidewillnotbeneglected. events. Thisisaregattaforracingsailors,organizedby courses andfullyequippedtohostafter-racing facility, convenientlyplacedforaccesstoracing the pastfromuseofidealPortLouisMarina Nicholsons RaceSeries.Participantswillbenefitasin event knownastheGrenadaSailingWeekCamper& The fourracedayswillbesplitbyaLayDay. ing conditionsoneachracedayarebeingplanned. courses tosuitthetypesofboatsenteredandsail- world-renowned. Aselectionofchallengingrace take theshotsthathavemadehisphotography safety. TimWrightwillbeoutthereonthewaterto secured toensureahighstandardofcompetitionand experienced measurerandraceofficerarebeing er orfun-lovingcharteryacht. whether yourboatisbigorsmall,hi-techracer,fastcruis- boat. GSWorganizerswanteveryonetofeelwelcome, ment ofregistrationfees—anunbeatableUS$60per be doneonlinewiththegreatestofease,includingpay- page “grenadasailingweek”.Bestofall,registrationcan views abouttheeventcanbeairedonFacebook made [email protected] com isnowupandrunning,e-mailcontactcanbe regatta side.GSW’swebsitewww.grenadasailingweek. formed GrenadaSailingWeektakesovertheyacht Festival, whichwillnowbeforworkboatsonly,thenewly party attheHeinekenRegattavillage! artists. Afteradayofsailingorspectating,itistimeto um concertareawithperformancesofinternational a UNESCOWorldHeritagesite. Annabaai, theharborofhistoriccityWillemstad, Curaçao, January25ththrough27th. international sailingattheHeinekenRegatta Maarten andevenAustraliawilldeliverablendof Aruba, Bonaire,Curaçao,UnitedKingdom,St. open 7daysaweekfrom8:00amto4:00pm ¡ Camper &Nicholsonsisthemainsponsorfor The servicesofinternationalprotestjuryjudges,an Recently spunofffromthevenerableGrenadaSailing New GrenadaSailingWeek,January31–February5 For moreinformationseeadonpage14. At nightthevillagewillbetransformedintoapremi- All eventsandracesareinaroundtheunique Sailors comingfromtheNetherlands,UnitedStates, ‘Real Different!’HeinekenRegattaCuraçao [email protected] 787.863.5282 787.863.0313 VISIT US! our webpage and bepartofourfamily. Join ustoday AMENITIES www.sunbaymarina.com • AmpleParking Located1/2mileAwaybyDinghy • USCustomandImmigration ElConquistadorHotelandCasino ElegantRestaurantssuchas • NearSmallEateriesandUpscale ConvenienceStore • NearbyShip'sChandleryand • LaundryFacilities • RestroomsandShowers • WaterandElectricity andWi-Fi • ComplementaryCableTV at Fajardo , NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 As news of the revised format spreads, the feedback has been positive. Kathy feedback has been positive. revised format spreads, the As news of the Southampton Boat Show. Southampton about this explains: “I have spoken of the Race Committee, Lammers, Chairman summer and over the course of the in several different countries event with sailors don’t get fun, professionally run regatta that the conditions for a everyone agrees that incor- The concept of a regatta on the west coast of Antigua. much better than serious rac- alongside the usual more one-design and pursuit races porates dinghy, 20th anniversary have no doubt that the appealing to sailors. We ing is exceptionally For interest- going to be a huge success!” Valentine’s Regatta is of the Jolly Harbour from opportunities available locally a boat, there are charter ed sailors without private race charter boats from throughout the region. Sunsail, Ondeck and several 45 —Continued on page

JODY SALLONS-DAY / WWW.LEADINGIMAGE.ORG Continued from previous page Continued from Recent promotional activities for this 20th Anniversary edition include representa- Recent promotional activities for this 20th Anniversary ‘Hot and Cool’ February: Club Nautico de San Juan Regatta February: Club Nautico de ‘Hot and Cool’ for February 1st Regatta, set Nautico de San Juan’s International The 12th Club over 100 competitors from the Caribbean, the USA, “We look forward to hosting For more information visit www.nauticodesanjuan.com/sailingprogram. Plans Under Way Jolly Harbour Valentine’s Regatta Jolly Harbour Valentine’s Regatta, racing February 7th Plans for Antigua’s “all new” — after race entertainment and Days and provide great … the four Race prizegiving parties. visit For more information about this year’s expanded format. The Regatta is held annually on the weekend about this year’s expanded format. The Regatta is held of the RORC Caribbean 600. closest to Valentine’s Day in the week before the start race in Toronto, and the tion at Cowes Week, the Newport Boat Show, the LO 300 through 3rd, 2013, offers a unique combination of hot competition for skilled for skilled of hot competition 2013, offers a unique combination through 3rd, to garner chance for beginners sailors and a cool dinghy and one-design excellent experience. sail- says Commodore Gustavo Hermida. Fifty-eight Central America and the world,” Virgin Islands, British Virgin Islands, St. Maarten and ors from Puerto Rico, the US Curaçao are already registered. well under way and excitement is starting to build through 10th, 2013, are now www.grenadasailingweek.com. NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 Discovering QuietAnchoragesintheEasternCaribbean SAILING SOUTHWARD FROM ANTIGUA Part One: by DonStreet

DAVON BAKER DAVON —Continuedonnextpage of MartiniqueandontoSt.Lucia. the leewardcoastofDominica,and lee coastofGuadeloupe,totheSaintes(pages152/7), to reachDeshaies,Guadeloupe,andthendownthe Street family’sfavouritecruisingground. and ontothewindwardcoastofMartinique— Desirade, MarieGalanteandwindwardofDominica Riviere Salée,andtheoff-the-beaten-trackrouteto islands, themiddleroutethroughGuadeloupevia three routessouth:themilkruntoleewardofall of alltheImray-Iolairecharts. (pages 1through7)plustheinformationonback Anguilla toDominica by themassesforgoodreason. details carefully—quietanchoragesareunfrequented Dominica pages intherelevantStreet’sguide:either gating light, withthechartinfrontofyou,and harbours, doyournavigatingandpilotingingood eral chartsA3,A4andB.Especiallywhenentering sailing directionsarefoundonthebacksofgen- www.imray.com forupdatestothechart.Inter-island ing andharbourpilotingdirections,alsovisit Imray-Iolaire chartforinformationoninter-islandsail- ably hasmyguideonboard. one. Ifanotherboatisintheanchorage,itscrewprob- teed ifnotanemptyanchorage,atleastuncrowded Visit theencircledanchoragesandyouwillbeguaran- described, orarebarelyinDoyle’sguide. Circle inmyguidetheanchoragesthatarenot ed interestinghistoricalinformationandanecdotes. advantage oftidalandwindconditions.Ihavealsoinclud- directions, andmakinginter-islandpassagestaking navigation andpilotinginformation,harbour avoid ifyouwantaquietnight!) yachtsmen. (Theseareanchoragesyoumightwantto ages popularwithbareboatsandmanycruising explorations ashoreanddescriptionsoftheanchor- change withamazingfrequency),bars,restaurants, tion onCustomsandImmigrationprocedures(which arrive intheEasternCaribbean. Iolaire chart.Allthisresearchcanbedonebeforeyou where youwanttocruise,buytherelevantImray- chart onyourlaptop.Onceyouhavedecidedexactly and crosscheckthemwhilelookingattherelevant from TrinidadtoSt.Thomas.Readtherelevantguides that showsalltheImray-Iolairechartsforarea Charts andBooks(www.imray.com)thememorystick a verygoodrestaurant.AlsobuyfromImrayNautical meal fortwoinacheaprestaurantorone guides arenotexpensive:aboutthesamepriceasa Scott’s guidetotheUSandBritishVirginIslands.The Windwards orLeewards,and/orNancyandSimon to cruisebutalsotherelevantChrisDoyleguide Caribbean, buynotonlymyguidetotheareayouwish seldom gettingoffthebeatentrack. follow eachothertothesamepopularanchorages, Yachtsmen exhibitthelemminginstinct:theytendto and loadedwithmooringballs.Thisisnotso. anchorages intheEasternCaribbeanareovercrowded The milkrunisafast40-milecourse200magnetic THE MILKRUN From EnglishandFalmouthHarboursthereare First readallthefrontmatterin South fromAntigua In thefollowingtextnumbersreferredtoare Check theinformationonbackofrelevant Read Doyle’sandmyguidescarefully,sidebyside. My guidesarelongoninter-islandsailingdirections, Chris Doyle’sguidesarefullofup-to-dateinforma- If youreallywanttoenjoyexploringtheEastern Sailors arecontinuallycomplainingthatallthe Do YourHomework , notelectronicnavigating! or Martinique toTrinidad , includingtheSailingDirections . Readthepilotage Street’s Guide, eyeball navi- Anguilla to NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19

KAY WILSON Street’s Guide, , page 62). I feel this is St Lucia’s , page 62). I feel this is St Lucia’s When clearing from Martinique, anchor the boat off from Martinique, anchor When clearing quick broad reach course,From Ste. Anne it is an easy, South from St. Lucia of the ARC, there is a From Rodney Bay, the landfall track, from the Pitons However, to get off the beaten February the wind is usually slightly north of east. Since is usually slightly north February the wind in either entered French waters you have already have to clear Galante, you do not Desirade or Marie exploring the Spend a week Customs in Martinique. headingeast coast of Martinique before unfrequented south to St. Lucia. Sac Marin as take the dinghy to Cul de Ste. Anne, then the marinas be no room in any of there will probably it is almost can be so full of boats and the harbour anchor. Do your clearance,impossible to find room to the dinghy, walk up thethen go to the shipyard, leave up with the good Frenchhill to the supermarket, load and taxi back to thewine, cheese and other goodies, dinghy. to Rodney Bay, which will205 magnetic for 22 miles, ARC fleet has departed.have plenty of space once the on to the lee coast of St. milk run south to the Pitons, all well described in both Vincent, and on to Bequia, my and Doyle’s guides. to Laborie ( head southeast for six miles Martinique to Trinidad The anchorage is quiet, most attractive village. 2012 there were no moor- uncrowded and as of March is three miles on to Vieux ing balls! From Laborie it southeast corner, leave Fort (page 63). Anchor in the the dinghy in the fishing harbour and pay a small boy to watch it. Or bypass Vieux Fort and sail two miles farther around the corner to Anse de Sable (pages 63/64). To get out of the swell that hooks around both ends of Maria Island, anchor as close to shore as your draft permits, and anchor bow and stern. —Continued on next page

CHRIS DOYLE From Marie Galante it is a straight shot, 75 miles on a it is a straight shot, 75 From Marie Galante Laborie on the south coast of St. Lucia is a unique stop: see www.ilovelaborie.com/index.php/drop-anchor In addition to routeing and anchorage selection, timing can be important, too. In the summer, even the famous In addition to routeing and anchorage selection, timing can be important, too. In the summer, even the famous Tobago Cays offer quiet and uncrowded anchorages 151/2), and then on to Marie Galante (pages 156/7) on to Marie Galante 151/2), and then sand beaches mile of deserted white with its mile after tourist development. and very little coast of magnetic, to the windward course of 172 January and should be a fast run, as in Martinique. This Continued from previous page Continued from Once through the gap between Desirade and Once through the gap between Desirade and A tip: If you are hard on the wind, do a little cheat- OFF THE BEATEN TRACK To really get off the beaten track, from English or THE MIDDLE ROUTE The middle route is for boats that draw six feet or less. Sail south from the English and Falmouth Harbour This route is well covered by both my and Doyle’s well covered by both my This route is Guadeloupe, you have two choices. If you draw six feet Guadeloupe, you have two choices. If you draw six feet or less you can enter Desirade’s Grande Anse, as the channel has been dredged to seven feet (pages 148/150). On Desirade you will discover the clock has been turned back 30 years as the island has been almost completely bypassed by tourism. From Desirade, it is a short sail on to Petite Terre (pages ing. Turn on the engine and let it tick over at about ing. Turn on the engine and let it tick over at about 1,000 RPM — but sail the boat as if the engine was not on. The engine at low RPMs probably will not increase the speed but it will mean when you hit the odd wave wrong the boat will not stop but will continue on, plus the engine will probably allow you to sail five degrees higher, possibly a little more, than if you were under sail alone. Do this whenever you have a tough beat to windward and life will be much more pleasant. Falmouth Harbour it’s a short beat to windward to Falmouth Harbour it’s a short beat to windward to Green Island and its many quiet anchorages (pages 94/7). From there it is a course of 160 magnetic, 55 miles to the gap between the islands of Desirade and Guadeloupe. This will be a tough leg but it will be worth it. This leg may be hard on the wind on port tack, but by the end of December or early January the wind should be a little north of east. area 40 miles on a course of 178 magnetic to the area 40 miles on a course of 178 magnetic to the entrance to Guadeloupe’s Gran Cul de Sac de Marin (page 134/8) and through the Riviere Salée. Anchor north of the bridge and be prepared to spend a night fighting mosquitoes until the bridge opens before dawn. Proceed to Pointe-à-Pitre (pages 140/4), then on to the Saintes and the remaining milk run as above. guides: check my guide for piloting and inter-island my guide for piloting and guides: check explorations. Doyle’s for shoreside sailing directions, very pleasant more up-to-date on the Also Doyle is better in Dominica. changes for the — NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 Below: Thesearchforaquietanchorageisrewarded Above: Ifyouopttotakethe‘milkrun’southfromAntigua,DeshaiesinGuadeloupewillbeyourfirstportofcall ever, thattechnicallyyouarenotallowedtoanchorat guaranteed tobeafasthull-speedreach.Note,how- (pages 99/100).Thecourseis210magneticsoit —

Rodney Bay,St.Lucia From MariaIslanditisa45-milelegtoBaliceaux Continued frompreviouspage

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CASIMIR HOFFMANN CASIMIR Lubricants &Oils Bilge Pumps Marine Hoses Electric Wire Anchors &Fenders Chain &Rope Johnson Hardware Ltd. erty: sticktotheboatandbeach. Note alsothattheislandofBaliceauxisprivateprop- Mustique, andthengotoBaliceauxforyoursolitude. Grenadines waters.Youcanclearinatnearby Baliceaux withoutfirstclearingintoSt.Vincent&the from Grenada. Eastern Caribbean,PartTwo:SailingNorthward Grenada. are regularlyhappeningonthesouthcoastof you willbecompletelyup-to-dateonthechangesthat www.imray.com, andalsoDoyle’sguide.Dothis Iolaire chartB32andthecorrectionstoupdateon 153/159 inmyguide;crosscheckagainstImray- bour onthesouthcoasttakesyourfancy.Seepages windward coastofGrenadaandintowhicheverhar- south coast.Instead,haveaglorioussaildownthe against seaandcurrenttoyouranchorageonGrenada’s Grenada, andabeattowindwardofthreesixmiles until youareheadingnorthfromGrenada. tions, leavetheeastcoastofCarriacou(pages133/135) the TobagoCays.However,owingtoCustomsregula- east coastofMayreau,(pages116/117),ratherthan the eastcoastofCanouan(pages102to105)and guide andDoyle’splanaccordingly.Iurgevisiting Next month:DiscoveringQuietAnchoragesinthe Forget aboutthemilkrundownleecoastof Sailing throughtheGrenadines,crosscheckmy FOR YOUR MARINEHARDWARE, ANDMORE Fax:(758)4520311 Fishing Gear Snorkeling Equipment Flares &LifeJackets VHF Radios Stainless Fittings Stainless Fasteners

e-mail:[email protected] BURR ROSIE plugging hisbooks. more than15years,andhasneverbeenshyabout the cruisingyachtsman. Lesser Antilles Verdes inthesamefashionashis came out.DonhopesthisguidewillopenuptheCape Caribbean Basins lished underthetitle rewritten, updatedandexpandedwillbepub- the AtlanticIslands.Thisguidehasbeencompletely and Panama,alsoincludedacruisingguidetoall Eastern CaribbeanfromtheeastcoastofStates misnamed asitalsocoveredgettingtoandfromthe had todoso! would buythedrinks.Heswearsthathehasnever Caribbean thathehadnotdescribedinhisguides, could comeupwithananchorageintheEastern to Aruba. wards alongtheVenezuelancoastandoffshoreislands and souththroughtheislandstoTrinidadwest- ages fromthewesternendofPuertoRico,eastwards expanded tofourseparateguidescoveringallanchor- Through theyearsthisguidehasbeenrewrittenand ing yachtsmanandmadebareboatcharteringpossible. this bookopenedtheEasternCaribbeantocruis- — awonderfulbitofnostalgia.Donproudlystatesthat Antilles hand-powered mimeographmachine. came outin1964:33pagesprivatelyprintedona guide, yachting magazineintheworld.Don’sfirstcruising in articles, “GoingSouth”,appearedinSeptember1964 sails theCaribbeanonOPB(otherpeople’sboats). hours ofHurricaneIvan“theterrible”in2004.Henow a catamarandraggingdownonherintheclosing who isstillwriting,sailinganddrinkingbeer. oldest, longest-servingyachtingwriterintheworld for thepast55years—andisstillatit.At82he exploring, chartingandwritingabouttheCaribbean Iolaire engineless yawl,intheCaribbean.In1995hesailed based he hasdonefivetransatlanticsonotherboats)and his 28-footenginelessyawl. tinued tosailandexploretheCaribbeanon Don hasbeenwritingfor In September2011,his In 1986,Donwrotehis In theearly1980s,Donstatedinprintthatifanyone His firstmajorguide, The firstofhisprobably300publishedmagazine From 1957to1995Donsailed Don Streethasbeencruising,racing,chartering, About theAuthor Yachting toEurope(hisseventhtransatlanticon Iolaire Yachtsman’s GuidetotheVirginIslands , waspublishedin1966andisstillavailable magazine,atthetimenumberone inEurope.From’95until2002,hecon- opened uptheEasternCaribbeanto . Street’s GuidetotheAtlanticand A CruisingGuidetotheLesser Transatlantic CrossingGuide Guide totheCapeVerdes Li’l Iolaire Houseware &Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes Antifouling Paint Caribbean Compass Cruising Guidetothe Iolaire wasdoneinby , his46-foot Li’l Iolaire Iolaire , also

for LUKA RONE LUKA , ; , NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21

lll#XVgV^WZ"bVg^cZ#[g hZgk^XZ "AZBVg^cBVg^cV "L^YZhidX`d[heVgZeVgih "=^\]aZkZad[hZgk^XZ ":meZg^ZcXZYegd[Zhh^dccVahiV[[ "8^kâgZhedch^Wâîn "CZlZfjêeZYldg`h]deh "AVWZafjVaîn Vindjg *.+%*.+,)-%(( Tobago To Go Go To Trinidad and Tobago: and Trinidad IZa/ ^hV or Not? or Right: For R&R they BVgi^c^fjZ;L> at Englishman’s Bay, joined local fishermen Above: For summertime boat services, the Smiths chose Chaguaramas HE:8>6AEG>8:;DGG:;>I 8VgV^WZBVg^cZ h]êX]VcYaZg^cBVgi^c^fjZ heZX^VaôZY^cZfjêbZci[dg h]êh!WjiVahd^ccVji^XVa V[iZg"hVaZhhZgk^XZ! bV^ciZcVcXZhjeea^Zh VcY^chiVaaVi^dcd[YZk^XZh# G><<>C<":A:8IGDC>8":C:GC:GN HeZX^Va^hih XdciVXi5XVgV^WZ"bVg^cZ#[g by Sarah Smith . We hadn’t got far up the Windward Island

Cape DESTINATIONS We were unsure where to spend the hurricane season; the We were unsure where to spend the hurricane season; Decisions, decisions… Bethany We (my husband, David, myself and our two children, obvious (easy) choices appeared to be Grenada or Trinidad. obvious (easy) choices appeared to be Grenada or people Grenada always comes well recommended, and we know who return there year after year. on next page —Continued aged 14, and Bryn aged 12) were relatively late arriving in the aged 14, and Bryn aged 12) were relatively late arriving 2012 Caribbean, making landfall in Tobago at the end of March in our after a 26-day passage from The Gambia in West Africa 43-foot sloop, chain, therefore, before our first hurricane season approached. NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 he wasn’tabletoworkonhisownboat(duemarina cane seasoninGrenada,buthadfoundthefactthat previously. Hehadspentsomeoftheprevioushurri- whom wehadfirstmetinGreeceacoupleofyears right dangerous! had itthatChaguaramaswasdirty,noisyanddown- dinghy. TheotheroptionwasTrinidad—andrumour murky, orabittoofarapartforeasymovementby were spreadout,andtheanchoragescrowded might need,ourfirstimpressionwasthatthefacilities nity andalloftheboatmaintenancefacilitiesthatwe of theplace,andwhileithadagoodcruisercommu- — We werecruisingincompanywithTerryon Seeing Trinidadforourselves We spentaweekatanchorinGrenadatogetfeel Continued frompreviouspage Libertine , barbecues; MexicanTraindominoes;swordfish,ribs, (reported in going ontokeepusoccupied—regularaquarobics met somewonderfulfolks.Therewereplentyofthings aren’t aspowerful. cruisers arejustasguilty—it’stheiroutboards through theanchorage,butfromwhatwesaw, Yes, thefishermendrivetheirpiroguestooquickly the PowerBoatspontoonforcollectionbyitsowner! had foundadinghyfloatinglooseandtieditupat we weretherewasareportbyoneofthelocalsthathe groups/138065706283722/) inthenineweeksthat Cruisers FaceBookpage:http://www.facebook.com/ event onthedailyTrinidadVHFcruisernet(Trinidad while wewerethere—infact,theonlydinghy-related ourselves. Therewasn’tasingledinghytheftreported priced, andwewereallowedtoworkon we haddonewasprofessionalandveryreasonably locals wemetwerefriendlyandhelpful,theworkthat bars wereonlyashortwalkordinghyrideaway.The at night,butdidn’tneedtoastherestaurantsand We didn’twanderfarawayfromthemarinacomplexes and turtlesswimmingaroundourberthinthemarina. most daysthewaterwasclearandweoftenhadfish polystyrene burgercartonsbumpingalongthehull, find afilmofdieselonthewater,orplasticbottlesand working commercialport)andwesometimeswoketo Chaguaramas canbenoisyanddirty(itis,afterall,a overnight fromClarke’sCourttoChaguaramas. Grenada toTrinidad–takingabout12hourssail as itsreputation.Wehadanuneventfultripfrom er Chaguaramasreallywasasdirtyandcrime-ridden filled withmorbidcuriositytoseeforourselveswheth- island hoppedsouthwithhimfromBequiatoTrinidad, Chaguaramas. Asthehurricaneseasondescended,we hard) restrictive.Terryhadaliftbookedin regulations andtheclosepackingofboatson screen shotofourroutefromTrinidadtoTobago bracing himselftotryXXX-hotsauce;anopenCPN Bethany andBrynatPigeonPoint,Tobago;David Clockwise fromleft:ManzanillaBeach,Trinidad;inset: As ever,itisthepeoplewhomakeaplaceandwe Trinidad wasactuallyapleasantsurprise!While Caribbean Compass, • Allslipswithfingers • Shorepower30,50and100amps • ABYCcertifiedmachanics • 70TonTravelift(30'beam) • Slipsto120’withdepth10’ • HighQualityShelteredMoorings Zar-Par Marina Visit: marinazarpar.comemail: [email protected] September2012); M Cape’s a Tel: 8095235858VHF Channel 5

r hull Z i THE FOCALPOINTFORCRUISINGYACHTSMENT —Continuedonnextpage he said100yardsoffshore. current. Whenquestionedabouthow‘close’hemeant, Trinidad, thisroutemakesuseofanin-shorecounter- current andwindtogonorthalongthecoastof perceived wisdomisthatonewillbefightingagainstthe course forScarboroughorStoreBayinTobago.While Trinidad asfarGrandeRivierebeforechanging through theBoca,thenhuggingnorthcoastof route heshowedmewasoutofChaguaramasnorth route thatheandtheotherlocalstake.Basically 12 hours—hewaskeentoshowmeonachartthe made thetripregularlyanditusuallytookhimabout to getfromTrinidad.Instead,heexplainedthat usual shakeoftheheadandwarningthatitwasn’teasy were offtonext.WhenIsaidTobago,expectedthe rent. Iwaschattingtooneofthelocalsaboutwherewe trip involvesabeatintotheprevailingwindandcur- and considereditdifficulttogetfromTrinidadasthe Grenada fittedthisbillasfarwewereconcerned. sand andturquoisewater—neitherChaguaramasnor of anchoragesinChaguaramas,wewerecravingwhite desperate togetbackanchor.Whilethereareacouple aged tomakeitbackintothewater.Onceafloatwewere days ratherthantheplannedfive,buteventuallyman- originally planned(typical!)andwereonthehardfor19 bottom. Weendeduphavingtodoabitmorethanwe mischief afterboatschooleachmorning. our youngteenagersamusedandoutoftoomuch taxi. Therewasevenasmallgangofboatkidstokeep where wewantedtogo,itwaseasyhopinamaxi- Trinidad” ferent typesoflocalfoodsonJesseJames’“Taste dads-guanapo-gorge), andgorgedourselveson64dif- in theGuanapoGorge(www.hikeseekers.com/trini- Bitters andthepitchlake.Wewentgorgescrambling 2012), theAsaWrightNatureCentre,Angostura back turtlewatching(reportedin an earlybus).ThereweretripstoMovieTown,leather- meat market(forthosecapableofgettingupintimefor prices, supermarkets,andthewholesalefruit,veg and delistores,DIYPriceSmartforwholesale com/), includingaselectionofmalls,specialistmeat trips toshopsofallkinds(www.membersonlymaxitaxi. that bedinghydock).Therewereorganized,regular on wide-screenTV—allourdoorstep(orshould or bake-and-sharkevenings;andsporteventsshown Most cruisers that we met had not been to Tobago, Most cruisersthatwemethadnotbeentoTobago, Trinidad toTobago We liftedouttodowhatweneeded

tour. Iftherewasn’tanorganizedtripto &7milesEastofInternationalAirport • 12milesEastofSantoDomingo • DinghyDock • FreeWIFIandInternet • Immigrationofficeinthemarinaforclearance • Showers,Laundry,Restaurant,24hrsecurity Compass, 69.36.67W 18.25.50N October Cape’s

NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 Clockwise from top left: Pigeon Point, Tobago; Englishman’s Bay, Tobago; Collecting coconuts on the beach at Pigeon Point; Jesse with Bryn sampling barbecued pigtail on the ‘Taste of Trinidad’ tour blog at http://blog.mailasail.com/cape Cape’s Hang on, I shouldn’t be telling you all of this — our Hang on, I shouldn’t be telling Visit number of fantastic anchorages between Store Bay number of fantastic anchorages and Charlottesville. be getting busy! little piece of paradise will ). The www.sbms.co. Continued from previous page Continued from previous page There is no doubt that Tobago is a little off the We altered course for Tobago at Grande Riviere, head- We paid our bills, informed Customs and ImmigrationWe paid our bills, informed ) provide WiFi, water and laundry facilities as well as tt www.facebook.com/groups/129897313763488 beaten track for most cruisers — for us this is part of beaten track for most cruisers — for us this is part of its charm. Store Bay Marine Services ( ing for Store Bay; this route took us to the west of the reefs off the southern end of Tobago (the current might push you onto these if you went to the east of them), and kept us out of the way of the Trinidad–Tobago ferries (heading into/out of Scarborough). We did not take any particular tides into account, but leaving Scotland Bay just before midnight meant that we arrived in day- light in Store Bay and had time to take a maxi-taxi into Scarborough to check in (courtesy check-in only) with Immigration and Customs on the day of arrival. We had friends who had taken the same route the week previously and had a similar passage to us — so our experience wasn’t just beginner’s luck! of our plans, said goodbye to the friends that we hadof our plans, said goodbye in Scotland Bay. Atmade and headed off to anchor anchorage and headed outabout 2300 hours we left the of current against us com- of the Boca. There was a bit the first couple of miles, buting out of the Boca and for knots of current with usafter this we had at least two four to five knots, but made(we normally motor at about seven and a half knots for most of the trip along this route). We could probably have gone even closer in shore, but stayed about three-quarters of a mile off; we had plenty of water here (20 to 40 metres, or roughly 60 to 80 feet, of water all along the coast of Trinidad), we were outside of any hazards (all rocks are clearly marked on the chart) and felt comfortable at this distance. — having a team of engineers and mechanics who can having a team of engineers and mechanics who can assist with repairs and source parts at short notice and are always ready to help out with any problems you might have. They can also point you in the right direction for fuel and gas. There are bars, restaurants and car hire in Store Bay, and easy access to supermarkets and DIY stores. The island itself is outside the hurricane belt, laid back and friendly, and crime is extremely low (Tobago Cruisers FaceBook page: snorkeling and diving are amazing, and there are a snorkeling and diving are amazing, and there are a NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 byFrankVirgintin Inset: PortofSpainisamajorcity,withallthatimplies Main photo:Trinidad’spopularSSCAhost,JesseJames,attheHanumantemple cruising seasonstartsonceagain. place toputourboatandthenbidetimeuntil When hurricaneseasonapproaches,wefindasafe NICK MATHISEN In theCaribbeansomecruisershavepassedhurri- Life hasawayoforganizingusaroundpatterns. THAN AHURRICANEHOLE TRINIDAD: FARMORE

ALL ASHORE…

boats evenstayedinthenorthernCaribbean. Dulce ispopularinthewesternCaribbean.Some and stillothersVenezuelaortheABCislands.TheRio cane seasoninGrenada,whileotherschoseTrinidad Now that it is time to set sail, we plan our destinations Now thatitistimetosetsail,weplanourdestinations charts. Fairtides! the tidefloodsfromwesttoeast.Timesgivenarelocal. and fromjustafteritsnadirtosoonrising,thetiderunswestward;i.e. From justafterthemoon’ssettingtoitsnadir,tiderunseastward; hour afterthemoonreachesitszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward. running totheeastsoonaftermoonrise,continuesrununtilaboutan month, willhelpyoucalculatethetides. shows thetimeofmeridianpassage(orzenith)moonforthisANDnext Street, authorofStreet’sGuidesandcompilerImray-Iolairecharts,which make yourpassagefasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDon 0 1813 1714 1622 20 1526 19 1426 18 1323 17 1220 16 1117 15 1018 14 0923 13 0831 0742 12 0654 11 0608 10 0521 9 0434 8 0347 7 0259 6 0211 5 0123 4 3 2 1 DATE TIME November For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolaire Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestarts Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewill MERIDIAN PASSAGE NOVEMBER -DECEMBER2012

(new moon) OF THEMOON VIRGINTINO 0 0857 0802 0710 0622 10 0533 9 0449 8 0404 7 0318 6 0231 5 0144 4 3 2 1 December 0007 0000 30 0055 2319 29 2232 28 2146 27 2103 26 2017 25 1933 24 1849 23 22 21 —Continued sanctuary, toaHindutempleorfamousbeaches. gering selectionoftrips,suchasvisitstothebird knows hishomelandindetailandcanarrangeastag- on ized intakingcruiserssafelyaroundtheisland.He Taxi (www.membersonlymaxitaxi.com),hasspecial- decade JesseJames,ownerofMembersOnlyMaxi exploring thesedifferentcultures.Formorethana next have awonderfultimetravelingaroundtheislandand island’s development. contributions specificethnicgroupshavemadetothe page Indian ArrivalDay(May30thannually),highlightthe such asEmancipationDay(August1stannually)and to signifythetriumphofgoodoverevil.Otherfestivals, involves thelightingofsmallclaylampsfilledwithoil Hindu festivalofDivali(November13th,2012),which month offasting(August8thor9th,2013);andthe which markstheendofRamadan,Islamicholy 21st through24thand27th,2012);Eid-ul-Fitr, ed andthenrituallyoffereduptothesea(November in whichmulti-coloredmodelmausoleumsareparad- vances. TheseincludetheMuslimfestivalsofHosay, the festivalscelebratedinTrinidadarereligiousobser- it seemslikethereisonealmosteveryweek.Manyof year. around theworld.Itishighpointofisland’s climax onFebruary11thand12thin2013),isfamous Carnival, traditionallycelebratedbeforeLent(itwill African, ChineseandEastIndiancultures.Trinidad the veryrealsenseofword,embracingEuropean, less wellknown:itcanbe“cruised”inland. season andperhapstoundertakeworkontheboat. One usuallygoestoTrinidadwaitoutthehurricane their boatsandswimintheChaguaramasanchorage. magnified bytheoilindustry.Peopledonotjumpoff working harborandhasanindustrialaspectthatis marine tradesarereadilyavailable.Chaguaramasisa perhaps theworld.Marinas,boatyardsandvarious est densityofboatingfacilitiesintheCaribbeanand northwest corner,isapeninsulathatcontainsthelarg- Chaguaramas. ThisareaofTrinidad,locatedatthe from oneanchoragetoanother.Thechiefportofcallis island hasneverbeenthetypeofplacewhereyoumove Trinidad isnotacruisingdestinationinthatsense:the most oftenaroundharbors,baysandanchorages. Cruisers whomakeChaguaramasadestinationcan There areotherholidaysaswell,somanyinfactthat Trinidad isbeautiful,interestingandmulticulturalin Culture Cruising However, thereisanothersideofTrinidadthat (full moon) 9 0028 31 0202 0000 30 0116 2340 29 2252 28 2203 27 2116 26 2029 25 1944 24 1859 23 1815 22 1730 21 1644 20 1555 19 1503 18 1407 17 1307 16 1204 15 1059 14 0957 13 12 11 (full moon) (new moon) NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25

VIRGINTINO , The Boca Ins & Outs of magazine, also a glossy, is Creole is a glossy about 200 pages long. is a glossy about 200 pages Do not think of Trinidad as only a hurricane hole Frank Virgintino is the author of Free Cruising Guides In addition, a short ride from Chaguaramas takes short ride from Chaguaramas In addition, a Further Reading has to offer is immense.The range of what Trinidad about 80 pages. It is THE guide to dining in Trinidad &about 80 pages. It is THE guide up a copy of Tobago. Also be sure to pick — it is far more than that. It has the greatest concen- tration of boatyard and boating facilities I have seen anywhere in the world. It also has unforgettable cul- tural aspects as well as beautiful terrain, shopping, restaurants and the fellowship of the cruising community. And in addition to its “day” life, it also has nightlife. Don’t miss it! (www.freecruisingguide.com). Trinidad’s free waterfront magazine. to find good food and good company. to find good food and then shopping malls: Westmall you to two vibrant PriceSmart is second one, where PriceSmart. The as well as very modern multiplex theatre located, has a and stores. of wonderful restaurants a multitude can repro- like a Sam’s Club, where you PriceSmart is your wal- heart’s content and perhaps vision to your let’s dismay. two free, high-qualityYou can learn more by obtaining are distributed throughouttourism magazines. They effort to read. Trinidad and are worth the Trinidad & Tobago all of what Trinidad &Inside its pages you can review Tobago has to offer.

MICHELLE RODULFO There is also a fantastic fruit and vegetable market Chaguaramas itself has many restaurants and bars There are other bonuses as well. Port of Spain is not bonuses as well. Port of There are other a modern, fully equippedWest Shore Medical Clinic is From interesting shopping to unspoiled nature to the best-known Carnival in the Caribbean, Trinidad offers a broad range of ‘inland cruising’ attractions facility and can take care of most medical needs, quickly and at reasonable cost. There is an excellent dental clinic close by. that will make you happy. It is located in Chaguanas, a large East Indian settlement. If you like East Indian culture the stores and the food stands will not disap- point you. where cruisers get together. You never have to go far boats, which is a risk throughout the Caribbean, I is a risk throughout the boats, which Trinis are a felt safe in this country. have always and love to with. They are very sociable delight to be that over a out and discuss this and “lime” (hang brew). and taxis to there are buses far from Chaguaramas; and is a It is the capital of Trinidad take you there. that implies. city with all that reasonably large and Port of between Chaguaramas However, midway and convenient stops. Spain there are some useful

CHRIS DOYLE Continued from previous page Continued from Safety, Sociability and Shopping Some cruisers have told me that they are concerned You can even go watch baby turtles hatch at night or go watch baby turtles hatch You can even about the crime statistics for Trinidad. I have found about the crime statistics for Trinidad. I have found over the 15 years that I have passed hurricane season there, that most of the crime is inner-city crime and domestic crime. Except for risk of theft from cruising visit a lake made of pitch tar. Jesse is the SSCA host of pitch tar. Jesse is the visit a lake made is a friend to most importantly he in Trinidad but their on boats. He understands those who cruise maxi van, paid trips in his excellent needs. Aside from trips on free weekly food shopping he takes cruisers If you encyclopedia of information. and is a veritable Trinidad, see Jesse. want to explore — NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 ! " # !"#$%"&$'$"(')*+++( ! ,'-(')* $

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vehicle ofchoice.Beyondtheairportlie gently rollinggrounds,thenquiteparched. Kawasaki Mule,intwo-orfour-seatconfiguration, istheubiquitousbattery-run the onlymapofislandavailable, we tookataxioutpasttheairport.The late PrincessMargaretandherfriendswould wanttopartyin.Andtheydid. Glenconner) purchasedtheislandanddeveloped itintothekindofwinterretreat air atthattimeandin1958theGuinness Breweryheir,ColinTennant(a.k.a.Lord ing livestockandbyfishermenwhocamped onitsshores.Developmentwasinthe Vincentian family.Onceacottonplantation, the1,400-acreislandwasusedforrais- intermingle withthepart-timeexpatriatesandthosewhorenttheirvillas. elaborate homes.Itwasbygovernmentdesign,IexplainedtoAlex,thatthelocals in whichlivesome500fishermen,governmentworkers,andfolkswhostaff the Even apeekinatBasil’sBarandrestaurantrevealednoMickJaggers. famous, werecoolintheirbreezyvillasandinfinitypoolshighontheislandridgeline. for therichandfamousweresoondisappointed.Apparentlythey, and February daybutalreadyitwashotintheleeoflowhillylittleisland. incongruously amongthemegayachts.Itwasonlyteno’clockinmorningofa late A fullyriggedBequiawhaleboat,theonlyonenowfishing,layatanchor,notalittle the waterknownas“Basil’s”.ShehadmadesailfromBequiainabouttwohours. was anchoredinBritanniaBay,offtheramshacklethatchedbuildingsonstiltsover — youcanseeoldpiecesofsugarmillmachinery Above: Approachingtheclassicwhitestructure—nowasmallbutmightymuseum Top: The Daysail toMustique At theendofvillage,wehikeduphill. Fromthepostoffice,onwhosewallwas Mustique, beforethelate-1950s,wasprivatelyownedbyaprominentmercantile Having anotherobjectinmind,mysonAlexandIwalkedthroughthelocalvillage, Our partyoftwenty-odddaytripperswastednotimegoingashore.Thoselooking After roundingupandhavingherheadsailslowered,theschooner Friendship Rose anchoredinBrittaniaBay ALL ASHORE… by RichardDey —Continued onnextpage Friendship Rose NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 EST since 1976 about Basil's Great GeneralThere is nothing general Basil’s Bar in Mustique was named one of the World’s Ten Ten was named one of the World’s Basil’s Bar in Mustique • Covered drydock SERVICES REPAIR SHIPYARD • Covered • • Drydock facilities up to 65M & 1000 tonne blasting • 40 tonne travel lift • Sand & metal work Woodwork • • berglass painting, ﬁ Welding, SERVICES MARINA Electrical, refrigeration & mechanical repairs • • 22 berths for yachts from 22M- 65M • Electricity & water Shower & toilet Imagine decorating your home with antiques from Bali and India. Imagine decorating your home with antiques from Bali and India. Basil’s Bar Basil’s : Fabrics as bright as the sea and as light as air... perfect for island joy. island joy. perfect for sea and as light as air... as bright as the : Fabrics WE SHIP AROUND THE WORLD! Located in Kingstown in an 18th century building named Cobblestone. Air Located in Kingstown in an 18th century building named Cobblestone.

www.basilsbar.com [email protected] www.basilsbar.com Collection of beautiful bamboo furniture, contemporary pieces from Asia and Collection of beautiful bamboo furniture, contemporary pieces from Fax: Visit Basil’s in Mustique or St. Vincent Visit Mustique email: Phone: ottleyhall St. Vincent St. Vincent 784-457-2178 784-456-2640 784-456-1302 @gmail.com VHF Channel 16 VHF Channel 16 & the Grenadines

Best Bars in 1987 by Newsweek and today lives up to that tradition. Recently renovated, the new face renovated, today lives up to that tradition. Recently Best Bars in 1987 by Newsweek and and more: offering fresh seafood, lobster in season, steaks andof Basil’s Bar in Mustique is all that Equipped with WIFI, you can enjoy sunset cocktails and catchthe best beefburger in the Caribbean. up on the web. Breakfast service at 8:00am. Lunch 11:00am - 6pm, and Dinner 7:30 until begins Night Jump Up and anytime and plan to attend the Wednesday late. Come to Basil’s for cocktails the Caribbean. The Mustique Blues Festival in Blues Festival BBQ. Basil’s Bar is home of the only 6, 2013. Call (784) 488-8350 or VHF 68. place from January 23 - February takes BOUTIQUE BASIL’S to and children, plus lots of T-shirts women, men For day wear. Elegant island evening and playful home. Basil’s Boutique also offers silver and gemstone jewelry. take STORE: GENERAL GREAT BASIL’S wines, cheese from Europe, gourmet jams and sauces. with fine French Store. Bountifully stocked foods in Paradise. of books not to be missed. Fine Imported cigars and an unusual collection Call (784) 488-8407. FOREVER: ACROSS from Asia and beyond, contemporary has a magnificent collection of furniture Across Forever Shipping is easily and pieces, home furnishings, fabulous lighting accessories and more. efficiently arranged. Call (784) 488-8407. Visitors to Mustique are invited to: Visitors BAR AND RESTAURANT: BASIL’S are invited to: to St Vincent Visitors BAR: BASIL’S welcoming and the meals are conditioned, you will enjoy cocktails most delightful, the staff most some of the best on the island. Now offering full catering services. (784) 457-2713. Call BASIL’S: AT beyond, and more. Call (784) 456-2602. meet? Why, they

launch for lunch back aboard the schooner. back aboard the schooner. launch for lunch , we were greeted with rum punches and then lunch — fish, PM Rose Continued from previous page Continued from The taxi driver let us off at the Cotton House Beach Café and promised to pick us Beach Café and promised let us off at the Cotton House The taxi driver It turned out we were the only people there and the bar was closed. On our way On the return sail to Bequia, we got to talking with a young couple who were on Back aboard the To learn more about writer and poet Richard Dey and his work, And then back across the burnt plain we high-tailed it to the Beach Café where we Passing between Isle a Quatre and Petit Nevis, I recounted some of the history and Thinking a rum punch would be just the thing, we walked downhill to the GreatThinking a rum punch would Having had a minor part in the struggling Bequia Heritage Museum project for in the struggling Bequia Heritage Museum project for Having had a minor part The door was open and we walked into a two-story air-conditioned miniature col- The door was open and we The windmill, I knew, was a gift shop and I hoped to meet the manager and see if I hoped to meet the manager I knew, was a gift shop and The windmill, The round base of an old windmill loomed in the far distance, and we set off toward in the far distance, and we of an old windmill loomed The round base ‘A lily pond, surrounded by pampas and other tall grasses… I might have sat ‘A lily pond, surrounded by pampas and other tall grasses… and meditated there through the noon hour’ up in time for the 1:00 up in time for — out, past the northern veranda set for dinner with tables draped in white linen, each with a vase of fresh flowers and, presumably, sterling flat- and hollow-ware, we noticed a thick book decorated on its front cover with coral and shells. Was it for reservations? No! It was for guests to sign. After quickly leafing through it and finding no signatures I recognized, I signed it anyway, exhorting history buffs to read my Adventures in the Trade Wind. their honeymoon. Barely clothed, radiating sexuality, and clearly in love, the girl was English, from London, and the guy was Canadian, from a western province. He was a nuclear geologist and she was in public relations. Like, how did shady scene was spread out over a polished hardwood floor, beneath a lofty peaked roofshady scene was spread out over a polished hardwood floor, bureau decorated with shells.replete with slow-turning fans. We marveled at an antique It was hard to believe this coralA baby-grand piano suggested both reverie and revelry. for molasses barrels.structure was originally an eighteenth-century warehouse peas and rice, green string beans, and key lime pie and fruit for dessert. The next order of pleasure was to go snorkeling or swimming on the beach. We chose snorkeling. We went in the flat-bottomed dinghy northward, then fell overboard and snor- keled southwards along the coral and rock. A few coral heads, many boulders, and a few bright fish attracted our eyes, and it was fun just to flipper along and spout water, but of course it was nothing like the Tobago Cays. More rum punches, however, and the difference was academic. visit www.richarddey.com. gulped down a Hairoun beer or two and waited for the taxi. The taxi didn’t show up, of course, so we took another and returned to the dock in time for lunch aboard the schooner, which dozed at anchor, her main and fore raised, and her pale lavender- blue topsides dazzling on the dark blue water beneath a light blue sky. folklore of these two islets. My son listened attentively, or appeared to, while the young couple cuddled and listened not at all. in a hostel in Costa Rica — or was it Nicaragua? — how else? He was there on an extended surfing trip, and about to head south; and she was there for a day or two while traveling alone from Santiago north to Mexico. They traded phone numbers and went their separate ways, except they didn’t! House. Ascending up its two-sided staircase, we crossed the spacious veranda, and staircase, we crossed the spacious veranda, House. Ascending up its two-sided and Great Room. The sumptuously appointed, cool entered its even more spacious many years, I was amazed at what money and a conscientious, determined populace at what money and a conscientious, determined populace many years, I was amazed all mighty museum, very nicely done, and it presented had done. It was a small but to know of the island’s history. any casual visitor would want lection of artifacts from the island’s pre-Columbian, Colonial, and Modern eras. island’s pre-Columbian, Colonial, and Modern eras. lection of artifacts from the a development story. On the second floor, gained by Photographs documented the of the islands’ natural history. We absorbed what winding iron stair, were examples as much sweat from my brow as ink from my pen. we could, my notepad absorbing she would carry my two island books. Approaching the classic white structure, built the classic white my two island books. Approaching she would carry of as it rose to a kind of conical hat, we saw old pieces of fieldstone and thinning sign of a shop. Instead, the shop had been transformed. sugar mill machinery but no two The Mustique History Museum had opened Or should I say the windmill? 2009. months before, in December it. On the way, amidst all the severely browned grasses, is a lily pond with a running grasses, is a lily pond amidst all the severely browned it. On the way, were gorgeous tall grasses. In the pond by pampas and other fountain, surrounded have sat and and I a pilgrim, I might lilies. Had they been a shrine purple-flowered through the noon hour. meditated there NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 —Continuedonnextpage were briefedaboutwhattolookfor.Thenwehitthetrail. headed toourlaunchingpointatthefootofatallwoodencylinder.Atthiswe would parkhisjeepandboardourbus.Sosaidsodone.WithErastoaboardwe by Erasto,whodirectedustoproceedalocationfartherupthevillagewherehe to immerseyourselfinrainforest-coveredmountains Above: TheanchorageatCumberlandBay.Justafewmilesinlandliestheopportunity habitats fortherareSt.VincentParrot( rainforest andtheopportunityforbirdwatching.TheCumberlandTrailisoneof located intheCumberlandValley.Thishike’sbiggestattractions,however,are next toawoodenwaterpipetransportinghydro-electricitypowerplant assisted significantlyinmaintainingthetrail.Atinitialsection,trailruns The ForestryDepartmentacquiredsomelandsfromfarmersinthe1960sandthis this mountaintrailwasonceusedbyvillagerstoreachtheupperVermontValley. Trail, ablyguidedbyNationalParksrangerErastoRobertson. teacher andthreetourismofficials,madeourwayalongtheCumberlandNature Science classofSt.Vincent&theGrenadines’CommunityCollege,followedbya had broughtustotheSpringjunctionatapproximately10:45 [email protected] www.barefootyachts byGerelynJohn Located inthelushupperCumberlandValleyonleewardsideofSt.Vincent, These wererequestswithwhichtocomplyasthe23studentsofEnvironmental “Pass upyourstick!” “Give meyourstickdarling!” Our Sailor’sWildernessToursbus,undertheskilledmaneuveringofDesmond, Since 1984 BAREBOATCHARTERS-FULLY CREWEDCHARTERS-ASASAILINGSCHOOL Cumberland Nature Trail Cumberland Nature Conquering St.Vincent’s Top right:Feralchocolate.Cocoapodsspringfromthetrunkofatreegonewild Bottom right:‘Wecommencedourupwardplod,singlefile,up,up…’

Tel.1-784-456-9526 /93349144Fax.1-784-456-9238 ALL ASHORE… POBox39, BlueLagoon,StVincent,WestIndies eil etl •Soes •AirTravel •HotelReservations •Moorings •Boutique •BookExchange •SurftechSurf Shop •Diesel&Propane •Restaurant &Bar •Wi-Fi/InternetCafé •Showers •Laundry • On-siteAccommodation • QuiksilverSurfWear •RefrigerationWork • IslandTours •FibreglassRepairs • Ice&Water •RaymarineElectronics • VehicleRentals • Mechanical&ElectricalRepairs • DoyleSailLoft&CanvasShop Barefoot Yacht Centre &Marine Charters Amazona guildingii ). AM whereweweremet

GERELYN JOHN .com NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29

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flying That lookout point did seem the climax of our journey but did not serve to diminish That lookout point did seem the climax of our journey where, now we realized, We once more emerged as if into civilization at the point my stick proudly to stand I in turn, with the spirit of a true conqueror, planted from the anchorage at Guides for the Cumberland Nature Trail hike can be arranged Our travels brought us under a clump of pine trees, led us past old trees of mag- pine trees, led us past old us under a clump of Our travels brought Above: Insects including the Jack Spaniard, a type of paper wasp that feeds Above: Insects including the Jack Spaniard, a type of paper island ecosystem on nectar and on other insects, provide balance in the of the unique Left: The Cumberland Valley is one of the few habitats St. Vincent Parrot enthusiasm for what yet lay ahead. From that point lay our gradual descent, along enthusiasm for what yet lay ahead. From that point lay eyes saw fauna as we maneu- which path our arms and legs caressed flora and our through changing scenery, on vered in single file past young trees, past aged trees, farmers in the fields, to to cultivated lands, on to farmers’ dwellings, to encounter behind. receive oranges at the hand of farmers then to leave farmers now too by appoint- Erasto had strategically parked his jeep and where Desmond provided the impetus for ment was effecting a rendezvous. The sight of both vehicles their now spent sticks. the students to lunge forward, hurriedly laying down students, having con- guard over those laid down by the tired though accomplished quered the Cumberland Nature Trail. Cumberland Bay: ask for a member of the Cumberland Valley Eco-Tourism Organization (tel [784] 495-0791) or a National Parks ranger (tel [784] 453-1623). The two-and-a-half-mile trail is open from 6:00AM to 4:00PM and involves between one and a half to two hours’ hiking. guava patch, as if by deliberate timing, that a few of them became visible, gliding by timing, that a few of them became visible, gliding guava patch, as if by deliberate their truly beautiful glints of color could be appreciated with an obliging tilt so that us to the lookout point on the hill. all the while as if beckoning wooden bridge, an indication that we had by now crossed some four waterways that by now crossed some four an indication that we had wooden bridge, point it was we had to jump and at which a stream across which did not include the tasting. the water was pure for announced that relation- a hundred years of host-parasite brought on by about nificent formation between our we paused to feel the gum us past gum trees where ships, brought its value as a to heart explanations about its aroma while we took fingers and savor engendered by fields, a guava plantation trailed past former cocoa fire starter. We past a former and their resultant deposits, of grazing cows the random wandering all the while hung visible from the outside, a jug and a lantern yet residence in which unseen, by the ever-present flock of being constantly guided, though ingii

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Continued from previous page Continued from This accomplishment behind us, we commenced our upward plod, single file, up, At this juncture, the lone traveler may have precipitously swung to the left to the At this juncture, the lone traveler may have precipitously First we traversed a mild gradient along which ran the telltale wooden pipe of the pipe of the which ran the telltale wooden a mild gradient along First we traversed up, then leveling off and then paused after some few minutes when sticks were cut to help ease the strain. Our plodding took us past two bamboo bridges and one inviting curve that seemed to beckon. However we were led to the right and, one by inviting curve that seemed to beckon. However we were booth to pick our careful one, we edged our way past the front porch of this tourism skills were tested. Some descent to our first stream crossing, where stone-jumping where the spread of stones opted to cross a few yards upstream, off the beaten path, was more generous. water catchment area at which we paused to receive insight about the whole works insight about the whole works water catchment area at which we paused to receive down to our next point of before swinging to the right and travelling a few yards ideally provide tourism infor- interest, the Tourism Information Hut, which would It was nevertheless hos- mation and restroom facilities when fully commissioned. which nested under its pitable to a colony of Jack Spaniards, a type of wasp, welcoming eaves. hydroelectric project, which didn’t prove an insurmountable barrier to retrieving to retrieving an insurmountable barrier project, which didn’t prove hydroelectric provided the somber guard. Such a treat which lay strewn in its the many guavas along the trail, a our first point of interest propel ourselves towards needed fuel to —

PO Box 133, Blue Lagoon, St. Vincent, West Indies West Vincent, St. Blue Lagoon, 133, PO Box 1 784 456 8928 Fax: 1 784 458 4308 Tel: [email protected] www.sunsail.com Sunsail NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 short noticeasgoodthingsareflowingyour way. projects onboardsoyouarepreparedto setsailon talents. Thisisaverygoodtimetoplot plansfor and smoothseasinromance. weeks willbethehighpoints,withfreshbreezes scuttlebutt blowyouoffcourse.Thefirstthree and notaserioussetback. the romanticareaofyourlife.It’sonlyawindshift now’s agoodtimetorechargeyourbatteries. age. Readthatseastoryyou’vebeenwantingto; have followingseas,sorelaxandagoodvoy- a freshwindinyoursailsafterthe22nd. lead tolucrativelandfalls.Abitofromancewilladd productive monthandcourseschartednowcould gab inmarinebusinessventures.Thiscouldbea lasting relationship. and don’tletminorsquallssinkapotentiallylong- romance beforethe22nd.Becoolaround17th get lostatsea. situation. Bettertojusthangonthehookthan do toomuchatonceandcreatinganuntenable new loveinterestsailingyourway. imagination andverbalskillswillbeassistedbya chart newcourseswheremoneyisinvolved.Your main cabin. These aspectscoulddisruptthepeaceinyour tion inarticulatingyourboat-businessefforts. enjoy it. this aspect—justswitchontheautopilotand aboard forthefirstthreeweeks.Takeadvantageof for yoursanity. last week,butyoursenseoffunwillbetheanchor matters. Thestresswillaffectyourlovelifeinthe will interferewithprogressinbusinessorfinancial you frombeingbackwindedandcaughtinirons. romance andonlyyoursenseofhumorwillkeep NOVEMBER 2012 Your cruisingkittywillbenefitfromyour creative Concentrate onyouremotionallifeanddon’tlet There couldbeafewcommunicationglitchesin The spinnakerwillbeupanddrawingyou’ll You willbeunderfullsailusingyourgiftofthe Concentrate onthedetailsofashipboard Don’t wasteprecioustimeandenergybytryingto This isagoodmonthforusingyouringenuityto There maybesometensemomentsandfrustra- A flirtationwillbringbreezinessandhumor Bad propagationandgarbledcommunications It willbehardtofindaclear,balancedcoursein SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul)

(Thank Godtheboat’sbackinwater!) HAUL OUT Relaxed andhappy,backatsea. Our boatawaits!AndsoonI’llbe But Icandreamonanyway. I knowitneverworksthatway! Through gentleseas,althoughintruth Enjoy asoftlypurringpush With anewengine—let’shopewemay A newjibwoundaroundtheforestay, And think,“Notbadforanoldgirl!” I watchhergleaming,polishedhull, Was wonttocall‘TheSpanishLake’. She’s loweredgentlytowhatDrake Painted, polished,fiberglassed, For weeksshe’ssufferedtillatlast, I feelshe’sturnedabrand-newpage. Looking gooddespiteherage Once againbackinthewater; Our goodoldboat,ourNeptune’sdaughter, Cynara I rhapsodize,laugh,gloat: parlumps marooned isoncemoreafloat! Fortunate Encounter — NanHatch Trinidad, someyearsago. Nature’s beauty. in CaroniSwamp. roost thenight come to evening twilight, descend in Scarlet Ibis flocks of magenta mountains, against Rouge-red cloud

— NicholasLee

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[email protected] JANE GIBB JANE NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 Zar-Par volumes 3 Marina FREE FREE www.marinazarpar.com Boca Chica, Dominican Republic Boca Chica, Compliments of:

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KAY WILSON by L. Alan Keene (The Green Ray) popularized an old Scottish legend that Le Rayon Vert Note: If it’s uncomfortable to look at, don’t! Since a green flash at sunset takes place As for the good fortune that’s bestowed upon the observer, Jules Verne in his 1882 My only regret is that I had to wait until my 50s to see the flash. I sure could have In the years since, I’ve learned a few things about the green flash. First of all, it’s In reality, it was much less dramatic and much, much less nautical. It took place Now, as a boating writer, I’d love to tell you that this potentially life-altering event But this was different. Black cats and four-leaf clovers are a dime a dozen, but a green My reaction to the promise of good fortune was a little surprising, though, since My reaction to the promise of good fortune was a little Neither of us was quite sure how the legend went: good luck for the rest of my life, Neither of us was quite sure how the legend went: good Sadly, my old high school buddy sitting beside me didn’t. Maybe he blinked or Sadly, my old high school buddy sitting beside me The excitement was more befitting a lottery winner or a duffer after a hole in one thanThe excitement was more befitting a lottery winner or a “Did you see it?” I yelled, leaping high in the air (well, maybe not high, but it felt “Did you see it?” I yelled, leaping high in the air (well, ‘… the ability to see closely into his own heart…’ AN ARUBAN FLASHBACK AN ARUBAN in that last instant before the sun drops out of sight and one at sunrise the instant before it appears, there’s no need to look until it’s safe. When the sun touches a low, distant horizon (not a cloud bank or mountain top) it’s safe to watch. French novel used that acumen 35 years earlier, as a gawky teenager looking for a date to the prom! But then again, maybe it’s a blessing I didn’t. not nearly as rare an occurrence as most people think. If conditions are right, it’s there for the observing — not only at sunset, but sunrise too. Optimal conditions include a low, flat horizon (preferably water), a surface that’s warmer than the surrounding air, and air that’s clear and free of smog or haze. Perfect for the Caribbean sailor in the lower latitudes with a little rum and a lot of patience — or better yet, a lot of both. promised the beholder the ability “to see closely into his own heart and to read the thoughts of others.” Never again, the legend goes, shall that person be deceived in matters of love. 15 years ago on Eagle Beach in Aruba, while my old friend and I sat at water’s edge waiting for our wives to do their final primping before hitting the town. We hadn’t even come to Aruba by boat, not even cruise ship. And that 45-footer is a full 20 feet longer than my little Chesapeake Bay daysailer. But all that aside, nautical or not, dramatic or not, I had become a new member of the exclusive Green Flash Club that summer eve, and I was overjoyed. took place on my 45-foot ketch 75 miles off the coast of Mexico, after riding out a tropical storm that threatened to dismast us. But I can’t. flash can’t be bought or sold. You have to experience it. I witnessed a rare natural phe- nomenon that evening and I planned on enjoying all of its perks, real or imagined. I’m not the superstitious type. A black cat crossing my path on Friday the 13th I’m not the superstitious type. A black cat crossing I’d feel rather silly carrying wouldn’t faze me. I often whistle while sailing, and I must admit to sparing my around a rabbit’s foot or four-leaf clover. And, while that luck, good or bad, is mother’s back as a child, as an adult I’ve always believed what you make it. maybe, or some special insight bestowed upon me, but whatever it was, we knew it maybe, or some special insight bestowed upon me, but of a very exclusive club was good. One thing was certain — I had become a member and I’ve never been one to shy away from exclusivity. looked away for just that instant, but whatever the cause, we were both sorry he looked away for just that instant, but whatever the But my remorse didn’t missed it. It would have been nice to share the experience. last much longer than that spot of green did. I was ecstatic. a middle-aged man watching the sun set on a clear September evening in the Caribbean.a middle-aged man watching the sun set on a clear September that second rum and coke, itAnd while my reaction was, no doubt, heightened by attached — AND I SAW IT!wasn’t just any old sunset. This one had a “green flash” like it). “Did you see it?” NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 of theuniversebogglesmind. while ourtinylittleSunis be viewableallthroughthewinter,soenjoy! because itisintrinsicallyprettybrightandfairlyclosetousbeing (approximately) duringthehottestdaysofsummer(July/August).Siriusisbrighteststarinsky sion “dogdays”ofsummercomesfromthedayswhenSiriusrosealongwithSun,whichhappens binary pair. binary systemoftwostars.Strangelythereisareddwarfstarsorbitingthemain As starstheyformthebaseofGeminiconstellationandarenearlysamebrightness. ogy CastorandPolluxspringfromaneggthatwastheresultofLedaswangettingbusy.Yeow! Overall, Orionisrifewithglobularandopenclustersofstars. the Steinersonaswell.Thisisanarearichinstarformationandmuchstudiedoveryears. when thereisnomoonaroundandyoucanseethis‘smudge’withthenakedeye.Nicetofocus totally engulfingMercury,Venus,EarthandMars. orange tothenakedeye.IfBetelgeusewereplacedwhereourSunis,itwouldextendoutbeyondMars, stars RigelandBetelgeuse.Betelgeuseisalsoasupergiantredstarwillevenappearreddish- Aldebaran followsthePleiadesthroughsky. making itacozyneighbor.ThenameAldebaranisArabicandmeans‘follower’,probablybecause stars inthesky.It’saredgiantstar,44timesbiggerthanSun.about65lightyearsaway, of skybutviewingwellbeforethe28thwillallowabetterlook. between thehornsofTaurusthisnight.Thefullmoonmaywashoutsomefinefeatureshunk Figure 4).There’salottoseeandit’seasyidentify. in Virgo. month, inTaurus. the monthandtheninearlymorninglatemonth.MovingfromScorpiotoLibra. The SkyinNovember2012 FIGURE 1 Scott Weltyistheauthorof I’m stuckontheimageofasunsobigthatitwouldengulfallinnerplanetsoutpastMars To ContemplateWhileHavingaGlassofWineonDeck November marksjusttheentryofthisgrandsectionourheavensintonighttimeskyandwill Finally weseethatthebrighteststarinskyisnowwithus—SiriusorDogStar.Theexpres- The brighteststarinAurigaisCapella,which,likeabouthalfthestarssky,actuallya The Geminiconstellationisinourviewnowtoofeaturingthetwinstars,CastorandPollux.Inmythol- Right withintheswordofOrion(seeclose-upFigure5)liesGreatNebula.Lookhere To therightofTaurusyouhaveeveryone’sfavoriteconstellation—Orion.Orionfeaturesbright Taurus featuresthebrightstarAldebaran—brightestinandoneof Jupiter andthefullmoontravelthroughskytogetheron28th.Thisalsoputsright 11th -Venusandcrescentmoonrisetogether(seeFigure1). Sky EventsThisMonth SATURN -A“morningstar”risingaround0400earlyinthemonthandthenmovingto0300later, JUPITER -Risinginthelateafternoon/earlyeveningandsettingweehours.Upallnight, MARS -Looksstalledinitsorbit!Settingatabout1900hoursallmonth,Scorpio. EARTH -GladtheUSelectionisfinallyover!Nowbacktofootball. VENUS -Stillanearlymorningcompanionbutgettinglowerasthemonthwearson. MERCURY -DivesaroundtheSunthismonth.Ifyou’reluckyyoucanseeitineveningearly The PlanetsinNovember2012 THE CARIBBEANSKY:FREESHOWNIGHTLY! only The WhyBookofSailing bigenoughtoholdonemillionEarthsinsideofit.Asusual,thescale by ScottWelty , BurfordBooks,©2007. only to gazeatthestars(see (actually theyallare,right?) November (see Figure3). Saturn intheearlymorning Figure 4). Jupiter tagsalong(see morning (seeFigure2). the easternskyearlyin Saturn makealovelypairin Pacific.) to beintheSouthern solar eclipse!(Butyouhave nine light years away. ninelightyearsaway. This isaverynicemonth The RichSkyof 30th -Mercury,Venus, 28th -FullMoonand 26th –27th-Venusand 13th -NewMoonandtotal

Figure 5:DetailshowingthelocationofGreatOrionNebula onthe28th Figure 4:TherichskyofNovembershowingJupiterandmoon Figure 3:November30th,0435hours.Mercuryjoinstheparty! Figure 2:November26th,0430hours.VenusandSaturnintheeast risingintheeast Figure 1:November11th,0400hours.SliverofamoonandVenus FIGURE 5 FIGURE 4 FIGURE 3 FIGURE 2 NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 described in the other popular guides. NOT Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of information the anchorages the guide he used was Norie and Wilson’s ALL Until Don Street wrote his first guide in 1964, Until Don Street wrote his first guide in 1964, GOOD GUIDES ARE TIMELESS in Fort Lauderdale, or contact [email protected] in St. Lucia, Sully Magras in St. Barts, and Blue Water Books & Charts in St. Lucia, Sully Magras in St. Barts, and Blue Water Books “Sailing Directions to the West Indies”, published in 1867. “Sailing Directions to the West Indies”, published in the Eastern Caribbean. In 1980 Street said in print that if anyone could come up with an anchorage safe for a boat that draws seven feet that he has not covered in the guide he would buy the drinks. drinks. Thirty-two years have gone by and he has never had to buy circle in Street’s Guide Real sailors in the Windwards, Leewards and Virgin Islands the anchorages that are Real sailors use Street’s Guides for inter-island and harbor piloting directions, plus interesting anec- dotes of people, places and history. Street’s Guides are the only ones that describe Do the same and you will have quiet anchorages. HURRICANE TIPS! on tracking & securing for a storm Street’s Guides are available at Island Water World and Johnson Marine Hardware Street’s Guides are available at Island Water World and The Harder They , by Michael Thelwell, happen to me, y’know. nah !”

rode off to heaven on a mini-bus, but no go deh

, transports us to the country and city worlds , transports us to the country The Harder They Come Inspired by the movie of the same name, Michael Inspired by the movie of the the movie. But the Usually the book precedes of the filmscript… The book is not a “novelization” The Duppy Grove Weidenfeld, New Evergreen Edition ©1988, Grove Weidenfeld, New Evergreen 392 Pages. ISBN 0-8021-3138-7. novel, Thelwell’s richly textured Come Jamaican folk hero of Ivanhoe Martin, alias Rhygin, and reggae star. award-winning writer Jamaican-born Thelwell, an at the University of and professor of literature pains to explain the Massachusetts, takes great the author’s preface: reversal of the art forms in written by Henzell and ‘The Harder They Come’, as creative, and very Trevor Rhone, is an intelligent, successful cinematic interpretation of an event in contemporary Jamaican history which has now passed into legend: the life and exploits of “Rhygin”, the first and most dramatic of the great ghetto gun- men. Henzell and Rhone used events from Rhygin’s career as the center of a film about working class life and culture which probed the psychological, eco-

, mi pickney — what can you do? What kin’ a job you t’ink you can get? to Reggae Star Reggae to happen. I know from I small-small say I a’ go do something ina dis worl’. Is

Ivan From County Boy Boy County From can’t This book is available at www.amazon.com. As detailist, Thelwell explores the rooted culture of ganja-riddled Trench Town in And so, with Ivan taking his chances, the narrative continues with various epi- When he arrived at his mother’s later that day, instinctively his mother told him, ‘Ooh, mi maddah… mi maddah… mi maddah,’ the fat lady sobbed.” Within hours of his arrival in the city, a youthful con man relieved Ivan of the pack- Bang! ‘Whaaiio, ah dead now!’ Bang! ‘Whaiooe. Stop the bus!’ ‘De man mad ooe!’ Ivan felt no exhilaration now; now he was terrified, as were the rest of the passen- “Coolie Man — his slight, tense body wrestling with the wheel — seemed at the last Maas’ Nattie, a good neighbour and friend to Miss ’Mando warned Ivan, “Courthouse Maas’ Nattie, a good neighbour and friend to Miss ’Mando So is Ivan’s journey by bus Thelwell’s narrative on Miss ’Mando’s funeral is a gem. When Ivan found her dead, the paper she had in her hand read from Genesis 37:When Ivan found her dead, the paper she had in her a sense of place: there Thelwell’s descriptive passages throughout the novel create But this idyllic setting meant little to Ivan. From his youth, there was a terrible But this idyllic setting meant little to Ivan. From his “A stranger might see there only an undifferentiated mass of lush tropical jungle. “A stranger might see there only an undifferentiated True to his word from the very beginning of the novel, Thelwell presents in vivid True to his word from the very beginning of the novel, While strictly adhering to that general vision of the meaning of the event, I have While strictly adhering to that general vision of the meaning a novel that has become a truly Jamaican classic. sodes in Ivan’s transformation to Rhygin and rise to fame, some of which include his love interest, his relationship with Ras Petah and his son Man-I, nightlife in the shanties, the gang members who change their names to those of the movie stars of the era — Bogart, Alan Ladd and Widmark — and his battles with Babylon. my chance dis.” “Ivan, Outside a turn criminal — go pop lock an’ bruk inna people house an’ shop?” But Ivan was unperturbed. “Me not no criminal… Mama, it It ages he had brought for Miss Daisy, including her monetary inheritance from the sale of Miss ’Mando’s land. All he was left with was the money he had in his pocket. gers. The pandemonium was complete. minute to fling the bus into the turn. The rear swayed sickeningly each time and once sideswiped the wall with a crash before bouncing back into the road. When he cut the inside corner too close, shrubs and low-hanging branches banged explo- sively against the sides, and each crash was greeted with a wail: Ivanhoe Martin was off on a bus to hell in Kingston’s Trench Town shanties. is not a nice place — no go deh. Me say his mother, Miss Daisy, after to Kingston to fulfill his ambition, and to reunite with the burial of his grandmother. The star of this uproarious episode is the bus driver, Coolie Man, also known as Drunk A’ready — a state in which he was so disposed from early morning, even before he began his day’s work. Anthony Winkler’s charac- ter Taddeus Augustus Baps in “Conspire against ’im to slay ’im… an’ dey said behold the dreamer cometh. Come now“Conspire against ’im to slay ’im… an’ dey said behold the we shall see what wi’ becomederefore let us slay ’im… Hmmm hmmm hmmm… and through Mad Izik, “Aaiee!of his dreams.” And again, at her wake her spirit prophesied bloodshed. Bloodshed andMi pickney, mi pickney. Fire an’ gunshat. Gunshat and Genesis 37. gunshat, waiee oh,” and she repeated her quotation from countryside to the walled- is a dramatic change of scenery from the spacious, serene his characters captivating, in, stark reality of city life. His storyline is picture perfect, and use of the vernacular a treat to the ear. inner force propelling him away from his inheritance towards “star-bwai” fame and inner force propelling him away from his inheritance From his earliest an inglorious end, about which Miss ’Mando had presentiments. Miss ’Mando intoned, “Lawd, voicing of his intent to be a famous singer and star-boy, obeah him”. look ’pon me good pickney — is must obeah somebody But to Miss ’Mando it was nothing of the kind — it was home and history, commu- But to Miss ’Mando it was nothing of the kind — it was over everything was not nity and human industry, sweat, toil, and joy. Towering Mahoe, cedar, mahogany, jungle but trees left there for shade and someday timber. bursts of bamboo. And food fustic, trumpet, and occasional dramatic blue-green star apple, regal bread- trees dense with leaves and hidden fruit — the purple-leaved unmistakable contours darkly fruit, mango, pear, ackee, jackfruit — each with its silhouetted against the blue evening light.” detail the lush countryside of Ivan’s birth where he resides with his grandmother, detail the lush countryside of Ivan’s birth where he Amanda Martin, known to all and sundry as “Miss ’Mando”. added much historical and political detail which, because of the inherent limitations of added much historical and political detail which, because the medium, was beyond the scope of the film. nomic, and political roots, as well as the media inspiration of Rhygin’s rebellion… nomic, and political roots, as well as the media inspiration BOOK REVIEW BY J. WYNNER BOOK REVIEW NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 quickly, butmoreoftenitisaslow-growingcancerandmanymenwilldie would certainlywantmelanomaandmanyothercancerstreatedthatway. and radiationwherenecessary,moveon.Inmanycasesthisstillapplies;I wisdom isthatcancerbestcaughtearly—findit,cutitout,usechemotherapy if you’vebeenreadingmoreenginemanualsorcruisingguidesthanmedicaljournals. beliefs arebeingquestionedinthelightofnewdata,whichyoumightnotbeaware boats. AregularPSAtestmightwellbeonyourlist.Butrightnow,manylong-accepted guys here.Myinterestinthesubjectstemsfromrecentpersonalexperience. forget youeverheardthewordsmentioned.I’mtalkingtomyfellow“boomercruiser” If youareawomanoryourfirstreactionis“Whatthehellthat?”stopreadingand my series“marinized-amphibiouswheelchairs”IthoughtI’dwriteaboutthePSAtest. hanging outonboatsintheislands;weareanagingdemographic.So,beforeIstart Caribbean cruiserslooktobenotfarbehindandIseeveryfew20-30-yearolds A MessagefortheMen Cruisers’ Health: figures overestimated the success of this approach because of a statistical artifact figures overestimatedthesuccessofthisapproachbecauseastatisticalartifact those withhighPSAwillprobablygetannualbiopsiesforsomeyearstocome. prostate, soitisquitepossibleforacancertobemissed,onthesafeside those withahighPSA.Thenagain,biopsyonlytakesverysmallsampleofyour Unfortunately, itwillalsoleadtounnecessaryinvasivebiopsiesinfiveoutofeight test isabletodetectoverhalfthecancersingroup,whichnotallbad. cancer. Oftheremaining92,twowillhavecancerthathasnotbeendetected.So hundred peoplewouldhavehighPSAlevelsandthreeofthoseeight the picturewouldsurelychangewithage.Accordingtothischart,eightoutofa shown isfromtheHopkinsCenter;itgivesnoclueastoageofsubjectsand problems. Furthermore,thePSAtestalmostequallyfailstodetectcancer.Thechart but highPSAlevelscanalsoresultfrominfections,calcificationandotherprostate miss cancers,whereasinanautopsyyoucanexaminethewholeprostate. by biopsy.Iassumethisisbecauseinbiopsiessurgeonstakesamplesandcaneasily else. Asyoureadonmightnotethatthisisamuchhigherratethandetected tate cancer,whichincreasesto75percentbytheageof75,andmostdiedsomething At thesametime,autopsystudies*showthatathirdofmenaged40to60havepros- On theotherhand,itisaleadingcauseofdeath:about3.3percentmendiefromit. chances ofdyingfromit,asopposedtosomethingelse,arebetweentenand35percent. cancer, not Prostate cancer, however, may be different. It can be aggressive and kill people Prostate cancer,however,maybedifferent.Itcanaggressiveandkillpeople We allknowthatcancerissomethingwereallydonotwant.Theconventional All cruisershaveourroutinemaintenance“todo”lists,forourselvesaswell It hasbecomenoticeabletomethatIamnottheonlysailorgettingolder.Manyother However, the PSA does catch over half the cancers and enables quick treatment. Early However, thePSAdoescatchoverhalfcancersandenablesquicktreatment.Early The PSAtestisspecifictotheprostateandhighlevelscanbeasignofcancer, of it. Depending on the study you look at, if you have prostate cancer, your it.Dependingonthestudyyoulookat,ifhaveprostatecancer,your DECK VIEWFROMTIKANOTBYCHRISDOYLE with prostate prostate they were living longer, but because their cancer was diagnosed at an earlier stage. they werelivinglonger,butbecausetheircancerwasdiagnosedatanearlierstage. was truebutmisleading.PeopledosurvivelongerafterdiagnosisintheUS,notbecause which peoplediedofcancerinseveralcountriesanditwasaboutthesame.Theclaim national healthcare.Ithoughtthisabitstrange,sodidsomecheckingontheageat diagnosed withcancersurvivedsomeyearslongerthanthoseinothercountries paigning againstanykindofUSgovernmenthealthcarewasthatintheUS,people where healthcarewasanissue.Oneofthefiguresputoutbypeoplepassionatelycam- known as“leadtimebias”.IcameacrossthiswhenfollowingoneoftheUSelections —Continuedonnextpage percent willneedhospitalization. anything frombleedingandpaintoinfectionthatwilldemandafollow-up,one minor. Accordingtothe There is also a downside to both biopsy and treatment. With biopsy it is relatively There isalsoadownsidetobothbiopsyandtreatment.Withitrelatively Annals ofInternalMedicine ** about a third will experience ** aboutathirdwillexperience NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35

: Compass Long-time cruiser Tom Lane has written: “Some things we Americans just ‘know’. “Some things we Americans Tom Lane has written: Long-time cruiser in Trinidad, be put to rest! Healthcare one myth that can safely “Well, that is Van Sant concurs: “Having lived and worked abroad Cruising guide author Bruce hospitals can vary, however. As reader David Tucker The quality of care in public Tuttle have further advised: “We have the essentials Veteran cruisers Rod and Jan with a general practi- “We established the following list of information by working • Name and date of birth • Passport nationality and number • Boat name and location, or local residence address • Name and phone number to contact in emergency • Any pertinent insurance information your home country (and • Name and phone number of primary-care physician from • Blood type, and allergies if any use, such as initial • Possibly a credit card number, reserved for emergency medical expenses widely among the various “Healthcare policies vis-à-vis your financial state vary Notes from past issues of Notes from past Caribbean Cruisers on Healthcare Cruisers Caribbean One such thing is that the healthcare in the United States is ‘the best in the world’ the United States is ‘the best is that the healthcare in One such thing trouble!’ When country, you are in ‘big medical attention in a foreign and if you need was the topic Caribbean, bad medical care first decided to sail to the my wife and I greatest risk. and they considered this our with most of our friends of conversation and many other places in the Eastern Caribbean Venezuela, Barbados, Martinique world. Most doctors are well educated and many care is among the best in the the clinics, are very modern. Choose your doctors here facilities, especially private else. Talk to locals, long-time residents and other same way you would anywhere for recommendations from satisfied patients.” cruisers, or ask on the net is half my long life, I can testify that good medicine in many venues for more than Sure, every country has its ration of incompetence practiced just about anywhere. is 100 percent. If one believes a competent doctor or lab and fraud, but no one has and a genuine drug within expiration date sits on some located somewhere around, an excellent chance of finding them.” shelf within reach, one has what island nation or country you are in, if you demand, recommended, “Regardless it’s your responsibility to carry personal health insur- or need, first world services, the private hospitals.” ance so that you can go to of carry with us at all times. The idea came as a result on a little card that we can and hearing the number of times that the pro- our being in the cruising community If care had been hampered by lack of such information. vision of emergency medical carried in a wallet. laminated, the card can be Trinidad: tioner and emergency room staff at a local hospital in local physician if you have one) healthcare, at the other countries of the Caribbean. At one extreme is free universal use only’ credit card is espe- is ‘no money, no treatment’. A dedicated ‘emergency not be delayed by inability cially valuable in a medical crisis, so that treatment will your emergency card. If there to prove you can pay. Put this credit card number on card, the credit card can be is any reason for concern, such as losing the emergency canceled and reissued without any penalty.” **. Seven mortality, as compared with obser- mortality, as compared with New England Journal of Medicine or prostate-cancer caused Continued from previous page Continued from * www.nytimes.com/2011/10/07/health/07prostate.html?_r=0 ** http://annals.org/article.aspx?articleid=1216568 *** www.nejm.org/doi/full/10.1056/NEJMoa1113162?query=featured_home& Doyle earned a doctorate From a sailing family on the south coast of England, Chris Many men die of prostate cancer and it would be a boon if we could detect and Many men die of prostate cancer and it would be a To get a clear picture, a study is needed in which patients whose early cancer was is needed in which patients whose early cancer was To get a clear picture, a study both among urologists andIt should be noted that this conclusion is controversial, In the studies that have been done, the results are unimpressive. If groups who done, the results are unimpressive. If groups who In the studies that have been Services Task Force to conclude, “men deserve All this has led the US Preventive All this might be worth it if this saves many lives, but does it? This is a much many lives, but does it? This be worth it if this saves All this might When cancer is detected, most people want it removed by radiation or surgery. As a it removed by radiation or is detected, most people want When cancer in psychology before sailing to the Caribbean in 1969 and becoming a resident of in psychology before sailing to the Caribbean in 1969 guides. Visit his website at Grenada. He is the author of several regional cruising www.sailorsguide.com. effectively treat it. At the present, it can be detected, but doctors are unable to tell effectively treat it. At the present, it can be detected, is removed in the early which cancers are going to kill. Now, when the prostate good. So if you have no pros- stages, there is no clear evidence that this does much test as a routine measure, tate problems or symptoms and are considering the PSA you may want to go sailing instead. detected by PSA are separated into “treatment” and” no treatment” groups, as was into “treatment” and” no treatment” groups, as detected by PSA are separated in the done in a recent study published many stories of men who havepatients. If you read blogs on the subject, you will find treatment has saved their lives.had treatment, are happy to be alive, and conclude that were unnecessary. The results of some studies suggest many of those treatments had a PSA test are compared with those who did not, almost no studies show a sig- with those who did not, almost no studies show a had a PSA test are compared though some do show fewer deaths from prostate can- nificant change in mortality, one cancer death per thousand people screened, while cer. At best, we may be saving to 30 or 40 per thousand. over-treatment will do damage us about PSA screening: there is a very small potential to know what the science tells harms.” benefit and significant potential trickier question because such studies generally run for a long time, usually ten to run for a long time, because such studies generally trickier question so the full end who may yet die of cancer, people are still alive at the 20 years, and not be showing up. benefits of early testing may two with localized prostate cancer were divided into hundred and thirty-one men group the prostate was removed and the others were randomized groups; in one were followed from 1994-2002, and the benefits were simply observed. The men “Among men with localized prostate cancer analyzed in 2010. Their conclusion: of PSA testing, radical prostatectomy did not signifi- detected during the early era cantly reduce all-cause years of follow-up.” (Italics mine.) This is a rather small vation, through at least 12 a benefit. study; a larger one may show result five in a thousand will die within a month of prostate surgery of various com- a month of prostate surgery thousand will die within result five in a and sur- will have serious complications one and seven percent plications, between complica- minor, but sometimes permanent 30 percent will have more vive, and 20 to case of surgery,erectile dysfunction in the urinary incontinence and tions such as in the case of radiation.and bowel dysfunction — NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 Electric: 110V30Amp BEQUIA MARINA appear in of the Ahoy, West Marine,Fajardo Sunbay Marina Puerto delReyMarina,Fajardo Palmas delMarYachtClub,Humacao Marina Pescaderia,CaboRojo Isleta Marina,Fajardo B &CFUELSENTERPRISE Easily approachedfromCarriacou,UnionI.,PalmI.&PSV Tel/Fax: (473)443-9110email:[email protected] FUEL •OILWATERICE Open MondaytoSaturday8:00am-4:00pm Caribbean Compass Look forthe Compass VHF 68 bold Contact: GlennClementorReynoldBelmar PICK UP! 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• andaskforTony! 3 Phase100Amp,50Hz —Continuedonnextpage remaining ingredientsandtossgentlyto combine. Remove tobowlandrepeatwithavocados forsixminutes.Againcarefullyfliponce. sear them,flippingonce,untiljustcharred andsoftened—abouteightminutes. onion intohalf-inchrings.Halve,pitand peeltheavocadoes. seeded. Chopcitrusandtomatoassmallpossible. of zestfromtheskin.Theorangeandtangerineshouldbepeeled,sectioned fridge foratleastonehourtoovernight. bowl, preferablyonewithasealingcover,oruseplasticwrap.Coverandplaceinthe then givenagoodstirbeforeserving. left tositintherefrigeratorforatleastanhourorlongermeldallflavors,and Spanish onion,cuminand,ofcourse,thecilantro-likechadonbene.Alldipsarebest the hotterblend“picante”.Salsawasnotcommerciallyproduceduntil1970s. sauce. TheSpanishexplorerslaternamedthemilder,chunkyversions“salsa”and tomatoes andpepperscombinedwithvariousotherveggiesitwastheoriginalhot ancient, tracedtotheAztecs,Mayans,andIncas.Salsawasacondimentbasicallyof instant onionsouppowderandsourcream.Salsa,theMexicanversionofdip,ismore widely knowndipintheUSwascalled“Californiadip”—acombinationofLipton moved fromthetraditionalkitchenordiningroominto‘living’room.Thefirst health sticktovegetableorfruitsliceswhenthemunchiesbeckon! or plantain,potato,nachochips.“Chip”doesrhymenicelywithdip,butforbetter popular inTexasthe1960s.Dipsandsalsacanbeservedwithbiscuits/crackers of potatochipsbeganintheUS.Nachosaredeep-friedpiecescorntortillas,first old, onlyabout60years.Itwasn’tuntilafterWorldWarIIthatthemassproduction dips areeasytoeatanddigestatanchororundersail. bakes. Easytoprepareinthegalleyanddelightfulconsumecockpit,healthy is builtupondippingorspreadingsomedelectablevegetableblendontoroti NUTRITIOUS DIPS When cool,diceavocados,onions,andpineapple andtransfertoalargerbowl.Add Brush pineappleandonionringswithoil. Inafryingpanonmedium-highheat, Peel andcorethepineapplecutinto one-inch-thickrings.Peelandslicethe black peppertotaste 1 Tablespoonsalt 4 leaveschadonbene,choppedfine 3 Tablespoonsfreshlimejuice 2 clovesofgarlic,minced 1 smalltomato,chopped 1 hotpepper,seededandminced 2 largeripebutfirmavocados 1 Tablespoonoliveoil 1/2 Spanishonion 1/2 ripepineapple Grilled PineappleandAvocadoDip Combine everything,coverandletsitrefrigeratedovernight. All fruitsshouldbefirmyetjuicy.Beforepeelingtheorange,gratetwoTablespoons salt totaste 3 leaveschadonbene,minced 1 Tablespoonlimejuice 1 Tablespoonvegetableoil(oliveorcanolapreferred) 1/2 hotredpepper,seededandminced(optional) 2 clovesofgarlic,minced 1 Tablespoongratedgingerroot 1 largeSpanishonion,dicedsmall 1 tangerine(“Portugal”) 1 orange 1 largetomato Spicy-Sweet FreshTomatoDip Peel andseedthemangoes,chopfleshfinely.Combineallingredientsina salt totaste 4 leaveschadonbene,chopped 1/2 hotredpepper,seededandminced(optional) 3 Tablespoonslimejuice(freshisbest) 1/2 Spanishonion,chopped 1 sweetredpepper,chopped 3 to4veryripemangoes Mango RedPepperDip Most ofthefollowingdipshaverecurringingredients:hotpeppers,garliccloves, The popularityofdipsskyrocketedwiththetelevision,wheneating Internationally theartofdippingsomestarchyobjectintoatastycreationisn’tvery Everyone lovesfingerfood—infact,mostofthetrueCaribbeanculinaryculture SERVING ATSEABYSHIRLEYHALL Hummus withsadaroti Triscuits; atright,SweetPotato Avocado andCitrusSalsawith Real foodatyourfingertips!Atleft, NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 E

R O T S Tel: 458-3485 Tel: or you can call us at or you ALSO IN BEQUIA D Ocar, Downstairs Coco’s Coco’s Downstairs Ocar, WE ARE SITUATED IN ARE SITUATED WE [email protected] Tel: 456-2983 or Fax: 456-2987 456-2983 or Fax: Tel: CALLIAQUA, ST. VINCENT ST. CALLIAQUA, • Phone: 452 6621 • 452 6620 • 488 8479 • 488 8634 • Fax: 456 5230 O OOODSTORE F F SS ‘‘ A E E U Sunday & Public Holidays: 9am to 11am Sunday & Public Holidays: 9am to Q R I Monday-Saturday: 8am to 12pm & 3pm to 6pm Monday-Saturday: 8am to T S Your #1 Choice for Provisioning in the Grenadines for Provisioning Choice Your #1 OOREA UUSTIQUE M

M Fine Wine, Cheeses, Fresh Fruits, Vegetables & Choice Meats Fine Wine, Cheeses, Fresh Fruits, Vegetables We offer an excellent selection of imported cheese, selection of imported an excellent offer cheese, We etc. juices, prosciutto, turkey, salami, exotic meats, fish, salmon, & fresh smoked prawns, shrimp, Seafood, petit pain, such as baguettes, bread frozen steaks, lamb, etc. croissants, grain breads, multi large or small orders yacht charters, for Provisioning at home to enjoy villas or simply hotels, restaurants, for accepted. are [email protected] www.marigotbeachclub.com [email protected] , or spread on sada roti At left, Black Bean Dip with nachos; at right, Spicy-Sweet Fresh Tomato Dip with corn tortillas The New Caribbean Home Garden Handbook. Continued from previous page Continued from For a complete protein, serve with toasted whole-wheat For a complete protein, serve with toasted whole-wheat High-tech smooth: Put everything into a blender or food processor and pulse food processor and pulse High-tech smooth: Put everything into a blender or Basic chunky: Heat the beans in the reserved liquid until it begins to boil and Basic chunky: Heat the beans in the reserved liquid Black Bean Dip 2 cans black beans 1/4 Cup finely chopped Spanish onion 1 very ripe large plum tomato 2 cloves of garlic, minced 1 Tablespoon lime juice 1 teaspoon ground cumin/jeera 2 leaves chadon bene, chopped small 1/2 hot pepper, seeded and minced (optional) salt to taste “high-tech smooth”. Either There are two ways to make this dip, “basic chunky” or Sweet Potato Hummus Sweet Potato and diced sweet potato 2 Cups peeled and drained chana/chickpeas, rinsed 1 Cup canned minced 2 cloves of garlic, juice 1/4 Cup lemon soy or teriyaki sauce 1 Tablespoon olive oil 2 Tablespoons curry powder 1 Tablespoon cumin/jeera 1 Tablespoon turmeric, ground ginger, salt one pinch of each: ground If to a bowl along with all other ingredients. Steam sweet potato. Transfer Shirley Hall is the author of Combine all ingredients in a bowl and let sit in the fridge an hour before serving. Simple Tomato Salsa 3 large tomatoes, finely chopped 1/2 Spanish onion, very finely chopped 3 leaves chadon bene, chopped small juice of one lemon or lime 1 Tablespoon chopped parsley 1 clove garlic, minced 1/2 hot pepper, seeded and minced (optional) salt and pepper to taste Combine all ingredients in a sealable bowl and let sit, preferably for four hours, Avocado and Citrus Salsa 1 nice avocado 4 medium oranges 2 medium grapefruit (prefer pink) 1 small Spanish onion, minced 4 leaves chadon bene, chopped 1/2 hot pepper, seeded and minced (optional) juice of one lime salt and spices to your taste Peel, seed and cube avocado. Peel, section and seed oranges and grapefruits, and Simple Mango Salsa or rose) 1 just ripe but not too soft mango (prefer Julie, calabash 1 small onion, chopped small 1/2 hot pepper, seeded and minced (optional) 4 leaves chadon bene, chopped small salt and black pepper to taste 1 Tablespoon brown sugar (optional) Decide if the mango is soft/ripe enough. If not, heat the mango by immersing it in until smooth. until smooth. remove from heat. Crush the beans with a spoon or potato masher and stir in remove from heat. Crush the beans with a spoon remaining ingredients. way, drain and rinse the beans, saving back a quarter Cup of the bean liquid. way, drain and rinse the beans, saving back a quarter you have a blender or food processor, pulse until smooth. Otherwise work with processor, pulse until smooth. Otherwise work with you have a blender or food it becomes the desired paste. Add more lemon juice a fork or big spoon until if needed. — and serve at room temperature. chop flesh finely. hot water for half an hour. They can also be softened in a microwave for a few minutes, but pierce the skin with a fork so it doesn’t explode! Peel, seed and finely cube the mango flesh. Mash the mango with remaining ingredients. Add brown sugar for a sweeter taste. roast coconut bake. NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 A Harbour-to-HilltopHikeinAntigua Month’s JONAS BROWNE&HUBBARD(G’da.)Ltd. Hubbard’s The FoodFairhasitallandalotmore. or afineselectionofliquorandwine, or fruits,toiletries,householdgoods, products, meat,freshvegetables Whether it’scannedgoods,dairy conveniently locatedsupermarkets. best pricesinGrenadaatourtwo on thewidestselectionand Stock Up Caribbean Cruising:HardWork Holiday EventsintheIslands …andmore! Read inNext and MagicMoments Compass Tel: (473)444-4573 until 7:00pm Friday &Saturday 9 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday Grand Anse: Tel: (473)440-2588 1:00 pm Saturday until Friday until8:45pm 8 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday The Carenage: : water. Atabout2:00 area; hotday,beautifulsunshine…butaloneonthe engine andrealizedthatweweretheonlyvesselin and weleftforourhomebase,Martinique. tions abouthowtoclearCustomsandImmigration directly ontheCustomsjetty.Wegavetheminstruc- without touchingland,wedisembarkedtheclients Dear pilot bookandwhatIwastoldfromotherskippers. knew aboutthisislandwaswhatwecouldreadinthe their vacationinPortsmouth,Dominica. a wonderfulweekontheyacht,plannedtocontinue charter guests.Thetwoguestsonboard,after myself asskipperwithtwocrewmembersand where theyachtwasmoored,started engineand papers werethere,thenwerantothe Customs jetty opened itandcouldseethepassports andship’s can liftyourassandgonow.”Wetook the envelope, brown envelopeandsaid,“Hereareyour papers.You same lockedroomwherewehadtowait. Hegavemea deposited. Afteranhourofficerreturned tothe their office,theyaskedmetowaituntilthe moneywas collect theamountandgaveitofficers. Backat — Iwenttoalocalbank(followedbytwo officers)to ly advisedtopayandgetawayassoonpossible. judge decideourdestiny. trate wouldsetadateforthehearingincourttolet they consideredussmugglers! did isanoffence.”Itdidn’tmatterwhatwetriedtosay; Dominica before,andweweren’tawarethatwhat never beentoDominicaorclearedCustomsin in abookthatcouldmatchtheoffence. and offence.Theyfoundsome“smugglers”paragraphs the crew,intheirterritory,seemstobeaseverecrime disembarked twoguestswithoutclearingtheboatand statement wemadeduringtheinterrogation.Having couldn’t findanythingwronguntiltheypointedtothe we’ll tellyou.” we weregettingthesamecomment:“Don’tworry, was goingonanditdidn’tmatterhowoftenweasked, After hoursintheircustody,westilldidn’tknowwhat graphed, spokenbadlyto,fingerprintedandsoon. locked intoaroomandinterrogatedforhours,photo- we werewatchedallthetimebyarmedofficers, their mainoffice.Theytreateduslikerealcriminals: to getonlandandshovedusinacardrove corner andlefteverythinginamess.Theyaskedus above theanchor.Theyinspectedyachtinevery process breakinganavigationlightandthesteeltube the wharfinRoseauandthenwe’lltellyou.” officers tookcommandoftheyacht. pointing theirmachinegunsatus,andtwoarmed sel closinginatfullspeed.Theyboardedusagain, running behindusandcouldseetheCoastGuardves- dot onthehorizon. sel becomesmallerandtoturnintoablack Guard headednorthand,asfasttheysailed,theirves- what theCoastGuardwaslookingfor.The the onlyyachtsailingaroundandwerewondering said, “Goodbye,haveanicetrip,”andsailedaway. and otherroutinequestions.Thatwasokay.They from, thenameofboat,whereweweregoingto, ed bytheCoastGuard.Theyaskedwherewecame FFORUM RREADERS' We sailedsouthinabsenceofwind,slowly,under DOMINICA DO’SANDDON’TS We reachedPrinceRupertBayatabout11:00 We hadneverbeenonDominicabeforeandwhatwe We sailedearlyinthemorningfromGuadeloupe, So Idid.Whentheamountwasdefined—US$4,000 I calledmylawyerfromDominica,andwasstrong- 2) Donotpaythefeeandbehelduntilmagis- 1) Paythefeeandleaveislandrightaway. We werepresentedwithtwooptions: “Sirs,” wesaid,“Wehaven’ttouchedland;have Our paperworkwasokay;theyachtokay.They The officersmooredtheyachtbythemselves,in “What’s goingon?”weasked.Noanswer.“We’llgoto After abouthalfanhour,wecouldhearengine We lookedaroundus,360degrees,andwestillwere O E Compass R A U D , M E PM R , closetoRoseau,wegotboard- S '

AM and, —Continuedonnextpage started takingonwater. rally fromtheCaribbeantoEurope,hit awhaleand Limits Dear CC tion inDominica,whichfollows. Dominica MarineAssociationforhisinputonthesitua- missed hisbusinessmeeting? amounted toUS$8,000.NeedwementionthatAbraham him) spent16daysinjail,andtheirlawyers’fees days injail;hisskipper(havingcomebacktotryhelp prison inPuertoRico.Abrahamendedupspending23 and takeninchainsfromSt.ThomastotheUSfederal considered aflightrisk.Hewashandcuffed,footcuffed, not clearingtheirboatsin”.Bailwasdenied,ashe example ofmeastheyweresickandtiredboaters officer “thathissuperiorswerebentonmakingan clearing in. ing boat”.Ofcoursetherewasnorecordoftheyacht and wasaskedhowhehadarrived,said,“bysail- to leaveSt.Thomasenrouteabusinessmeeting era wereallinorder,butwhenhewenttotheairport cleared theboatin.Abraham’spassport,visa,etcet- St. Thomas,USVI,byayachtskipperwhohadn’t by aDutchfellow,Abraham,whowasdroppedoffin who wereputashore.In1997wepublishedastory it couldhavebeenworse—evenforthepassengers in ontheirown:theyachtmustalsobecleared. country byyachtcannotsimplybeputashoretoclear place tostart.Noteespeciallythatpersonsarrivingina Eastern Caribbean,ChrisDoyle’sguidesareagood are whentravelingthroughdifferentcountries.Forthe exactly whattheCustomsandImmigrationregulations self grief:dotheresearchandfindoutinadvance Dear DNA, DNA Please signme, from mynauticalcharts.Dominica,neveragain. and afterthisevent,Iwilldefinitelydeleteisland for “thenexttime”. enough withgivingusjustawarninganddirections ing intothecircumstances,itwouldhavebeen but, ifit’struethatwecommittedanoffence,look- floating victimstheycouldget. think so,butunfortunatelyweweretheonlyavailable ors thetimetheyhadused.Wasitaroutinecontrol?I made thatdayand,inthisway,justifytotheirsuperi- somebody hadtopayfortheextraordinaryeffortthey ation”. Mypersonalopinionaboutthecaseisthat sailed away. Dear Dominica MarineAssociation Hubert Winston Regards, prevented thisentiresituation. cell atthepolicestation. they wouldhavehadtospendthenightinaholding Then iftherewerenoflightsandferrythatday, out ortheferrybacktoMartiniquesameday. and hence,theywouldhavetogetanairplaneflight entry? Theywouldhavenowaytoreturnthevessel he leftthemtofendforthemselves)weredenied What ifhisguests(orshouldIsayformerguests,as laws pertainingtodisembarkationofguestsorcrew. doesn’t havetotouchlandbeinviolationofthe also understandthatasaskipperonvessel,he underwent withthelocalauthorities,buthemust ing andIdoapologizefortherudeexperiencehe sel wouldhavebeenseizedandfinesimposed. had donethisinMartinique,whereIfrequent,myves- and crewonboardotherdetailsofyourtrip.IfI must know,beforeyourvesselarrives,allpassengers Caribbean andtheworld.InUS,HomelandSecurity and Immigrationisacrimeineverycountrythe on anotherislandterritory. Customs evenforthesimplestthing,suchasrefueling territory. Mostskippersknowthattheyshouldclear try’s waters,andnotonlythehardland,arepartofits exact samelawstoprotectFrenchterritory.Acoun- ing MartiniqueandGuadeloupe,whichhavethese marine lawsofeveryislandintheCaribbean,includ- illicit trade. have neverbeenknowninthepastforsuchan and smallfishingboats,asthesemarinevessels islands usingunconventionalmeanssuchasyachts ing. Peoplearebeingtraffickedthroughoutthe Caribbean, isbeingplaguedwithhumantraffick- Back tothepresent:WeaskedHubertWinstonof Abraham wasarrestedandtoldbytheImmigration The treatmentDNAreceivedmightsoundharsh,but This accountisaremindertoallsailorssaveyour- I neverhavehadtheopportunitytovisitDominica We don’tknowifwehavedoneanythingwrong I counted17differentofficersinvolvedinthis“oper- In May,aNetherlands-flaggedHanse 370e, STAYING AFLOAT My pointofargument:commonsensewouldhave It wasunfortunatetheskippergotarudeawaken- Dropping offpassengerswithoutclearingCustoms The skipper,ifheisashouldknowthe Dominica, likemostofifnotalltheislandsin Compass Compass , sailinginWorldCruisingClub’sARC Europe , , Outer NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39

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Readers’ Forum Box 175BQ Bequia VC0400 St. Vincent & the Grenadines Thanks so much for enjoying the Thanks so much sending the great “reader in an exotic location” photo. “reader in an exotic location” sending the great you with a we didn’t even have to bribe And to think, free giveaway! All the best, Sally Dear Compass, Chaguaramas Bay, Trinidad. for shopping. The wind ing. The owners were ashore and it was only a ques- was from the east at ten knots crashed into a ferry cata- tion of time until the yacht Yacht Services. maran on the pier of Peake they pulled the yacht with Then, in a half-hour action, an intact mooring buoy. It their small dinghies back to and wind. was a hard job against current he informed the owners pers. He told me that when gave a small “thank you” what happened, they just and left him standing alongside! investing time, fuel and very carefully next time before risk just for a lousy “thanks”. Yours, Peter Saula S/Y Pesa Dear address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarification is required. individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. Dear JoAnne, Outer ! Compass , must have been inadequate if the crew of must have been inadequate , en route from Bermuda to the Azores would have been able to move 1,500 gal- would have been able to move two Edson pumps (as described above) we Iolaire afloat long enough to motorsail 330 miles back afloat long enough to motorsail Compass Iolaire’s Continued from previous page Continued from We recently went on a wonderful adventure to see My husband, Bill, and I have been cruising for My husband, Bill, and I have been cruising for FROM PERU, WITH LOVE If a boat has adequate hand bilge pumps it is amaz- If a boat has adequate hand I recommend that every yacht have a proper manual I recommend that every yacht the engine’s salt- Moreover, if they had disconnected The fact that the boat floated for 48 hours after the boat floated for 48 The fact that According to a report at www.sail-world.com, the a report at www.sail-world.com, According to the many great sights of Peru. Here is a photo of me at the airport in Peru — reading the up and down the US East Coast, and then up and up and down the US East Coast, and then up and down the Caribbean. Thank you and fair winds, JoAnne Harris S/V Ultra four years. We sailed from Texas to the Bahamas, four years. We sailed from Texas to the Bahamas, Dear were pumping between 300 to 400 gallons an hour for were pumping between 300 to 400 gallons an hour for two days until we reached Horta. Once alongside the dock we plugged into shore power, bought an electric pump, rigged up a float switch and went off to Café Sport for a few pints. Don Street Ireland started leaking like a sieve while hove to in a gale. After started leaking like a sieve while hove to in a gale. After pulling up floorboards and emptying the forepeak the leak was traced to a broken stem bolt, in the only area not checked during her 1994-95 rebuild. By using one of lons an hour. Four crewmembers, pumping one hour lons an hour. Four crewmembers, certainly have kept on, three hours off, would my 46-foot engineless ing what can be done. In 1995, yawl, bilge pump, such as an Edson 25-gallon-per-minute bilge pump, such as an Edson such a pump, the crew of diaphragm bilge pump. With Outer Limits made a strum box out water intake from the seacock, into the bilge and used the of a tin can, put the intake should have been able to engine as a bilge pump, they of water with no physical stay ahead of the ingress ran. effort as long as the engine abandonment shows that the boat could not have been shows that the boat could abandonment system on But the bilge pumping leaking that badly. Outer Limits ahead of the ingress of four felt they could not keep to Bermuda. water long enough to sail back Limits to have a rescue boat to Bermuda or close enough more pumps. come out and meet them with crew started the emergency pumps and turned back the emergency pumps and crew started were appar- Although the pumps toward Bermuda. point, the cope with the leaks at that ently able to port safely that the boat could reach skipper doubted Mayday. and issued a — NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 0 94FlsTalrPrisDee H $37,000 $550,000 Call, faxorvisitourwebsiteforacompletelistofboatssale $25,000 55’ 2006DynaCraftMYFullyEquipped $250,000 30’ 1974FalesTrawlerPerkinsDieselPH $120,000 40’ 2002Corinthian400,TwinYanmars,ExpressCruiser $45,000 $110,000 26’ 1997GradyWhite,cuddycabin,twinYamahas 52’ 1958AldenDesign,fullyequippedExc.Cond. $78,500 43’ 1976Gulfstar,Yanmar75HP,lowhrs.AP, 38’ 1967LeComte,Northeast38,classic,excellentcond. 35’ 1989IslandPacketSloop,excellentCond. ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES 55’ 2006DynaCraftMY 3 strms,700HPCats, $550,000 Compass PointMarina,6300Est.Frydenhoj,Suite28, www.stthomasyachts.com St. Thomas,U.S.V.I.00802 www.stthomasyachts.com Fax: (340)775-4803 Tel: (340)779-1660 [email protected] Power Sail 199960’ FountainePajot 200850’ Lagoon

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€4.900.000 $619,000 $749,000 3 18 Mrn Trading Marine 1987 43’ Sundeck, Washer/Dryer Miss Goody $65,000 200047’ Catana 200750’ Catana 200773’Executive $ €340,000 $950,000 2,000,000 laugh often. the world.Yeah,alaughingseagull,that’s thelifeforme.Livewell,lovemuch, laugh attheworld.Couldyouwantmorefromlife?Oh,anddidImentiontraveling seagull. Theyeatatallthebestrestaurants,havesexwhenevertheywant, and to anotheradventureI’msure.Godspeed,littlefriend. piercing laughsthenturnedand,withhisnewgirlfriend,flewoffoverHasselIsland over theboataccompaniedbyaprettylittlefemalegull.Heletmehaveoneofthose ing Iuppedanchorandsetsail.AswasleavingtheharborJonathanflewcircles headed myway.IneededtogetcloserthemangrovesinLagoon,soonemorn- listener, neverinterruptedandsometimesevenlaughedattherightmoment. he thoughtIwasstretchingthetruthjustatadinseastory,butgood Every afternoonhewouldsitandlistentome,tiltinghisheadatanoddanglewhen never closer. cooler whereIwouldplacehiscatfood.Heletmegetwithinarm’sreachbut he wouldn’tletmetouchhim.Hestartedcomingontotheboatandsittingona eat justabouteverythingexceptthoseWindy’statertots.Wouldn’ttouch’emand tion racketgoing.Iwonderedhowmanyotherboatshetookcareof. seagulls werestayingawayfrommyboat.Noseagullpoop.Hehadhisownprotec- crowd goescrazy!” back, backmakesacatchontheflytowingameandWorldSeries.The — thisiswhereIwouldthumpthebreadballjustoverhishead“Jonathangoing full countonthebatter.Here’spitch,swungandhittodeepleftfieldwhere…” in mybestradioannouncervoice,“It’sthetopofninth,basesloaded,twoout, field fortheDodgers.Yeah,Iknowwhatyou’rethinking:crazyoldman.Butanyway, bread ballintotheairandhecaughtitwithease. to thecockpitwherehestillsatlookingatmewithacocked-headstare.Ithrew So goingbelowandonlyfindingbreadIrolledupseveralballsreturned rail. Heletloosewithoneofthosescreaminglaughsasiftosay,“Where’sthefood?” sun setoverCharlotteAmalieharbor,whenalaughingseagulllandedonmystern I havedecidedthatifthereisreincarnationwanttocomebackasalaughing But allthingshavetocomeanend;therewasastormbrewingintheAtlantic, He becameadailyvisitor,leavingatdusk,flyingofftosomewhereforthenight. After acoupleofweeksIstartedbuyinghimfish-flavoredcatfood.Hewould From thenonJonathanwouldcomevisiteveryafternoon.AndInoticedtheother Soon itbecameagamewithplay-by-playbymeasIpretendedhewasplayingleft I wassittinginmycockpitonelateafternoon,enjoyingacoldbeer,watchingthe This isastoryaboutseagullImetonehurricaneseasoninSt.Thomas. JONATHAN SEAGULL WHAT’S ONMYMIND by WoodyYoung NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 K K K K K K K K K 0 9K 2 .9 35 2 19 4 79 5 59 89K 79K 32K 99K 79K 26K 32K 39K 52K 30K 59K 2 4.9 1 2 1 199K 1 199 135K 220K 249K 119K 199K 149K 139K 199K 239K 5 5 52.9K 54.9K d r n oar eed b g p e Cat c g h S g Desi acious Livea e Cruiser Pri Cruise Immaculate y b p g at bl t ‘05 er h p uta u Cruisin ac Great Price Great Gre Superb Liveaboard S y p endar ld 01 ,g,pg g ‘ Caribbean! Caribbean!

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, Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply. Anyone with an interest is gg Luxurious, Great Value Value Great Great Luxurious, Luxurious, We offer full training on-site in the Caribbean. offer We 00 This is a FUN job with great earning potential. This is a FUN job with great e ‘95 g yy 1 ‘ 6 AMEL 54 2008 AMEL ard 43 ‘08 43 ard 4 AND MULTI HULL AND MULTI Alternatively send an email with your CV + photo to: Alternatively send an email with your CV + photo & Rasmussen ‘62 C & Rasmussen p “The Brokers” Informative O au g If you are self motivated and have a positive outlook on life, If you are self motivated and N e 500 ‘07 e 500 e t in g O k a ana 48 ‘00 Stron ana 48 e y y (or equivalent) Shore Off Master Yacht Captain with RYA interest in cooking Chef/Hostess with an (either for the Captain and or the Chef/Hostess) Dive master qualified yg b Warranty - Like New 599 000 € Warranty with a basic understanding of culinary skills with a basic understanding Qualifications Required: • • • Join the lifestyle of a fun & outgoing company in the Caribbean Islands. Join the lifestyle of a fun & ‘ Bene Air Cond Full options 1 Year Amel Year Air Cond Full options 1 110 HP Volvo! . Genset . Water Maker . Genset . Water Volvo! HP 110 6 AIL - M Lagoon 500 - 2011 3 Cabins - Like New Lagoon 500 - 2011 Lagoon 470 - 2002 3 Cabins - New Engines Lagoon 410 S2 - 2003 - Owner Version SOLD 550 000 € 220 000 €

Amel 54 2008 full options Amel Super Maramu 2000 Superb Beneteau Oceanis 500 - 1988 Charter version Hunter Marine - 2007 - Private boat full options Beneteau 50 - 2007 Owner Version PRICE ATTRACTIVE DUFOUR 385 - 2005 - 37 - 1996 - Owner boat Jeanneau SUN ODYSSEY 89 000 € 100 000 US$ 179 000 € 49 000 € 179 000 € 259 000 € 599 000 € 48’ Ta 48’ 4 ‘87 Immaculate Cardinal Warwick 46’ Equipped 45.5 1981 Full 45.5 1981 Fully Bristol Bristol 45’ 45’ ‘02 Private Sun Odyssey 45.2 Jean. 45’ ‘94, ‘94 445 445 44' Beneteau 44' Beneteau New Engine & Genset DS44, Hunter 44’ ‘08 43 43' R&C Leopard 43' R&C Leo Near Perfect ‘83 Bristol, 43 Slocum 43’ ‘95 Passage Passa 42‘ Hunter 42‘ Hunter 42 CC‘05 Beneteau 42’ 42' Jeanneau 42DS 2007 High Spec42' Jeanneau 42DS 2007 Hi SAIL - MONO AND MULTI HULLS: SAIL - MONO AND MULTI S Found! Jeanneau 2010 New & Fully 57’ ‘62 Classic A Abeking & Rasmussen 57’ 57’ ‘00/99 (2) Starting @ 54' Hylas DS/Std ‘82 ‘82 Chiao CT54 Chiao CT54 Ta Ta 54' 54' ‘97, Wi Wiggers 52 52' C & C Custom 52' C & C Custom IGU Damage Well, ‘92 Shows 510 51' Ben. Refit Refit 510 1994 Extensive 510 1994 Extensive 51' Beneteau 51' Beneteau ‘09 50 DS Jeanneau 50’ ‘07 500 50' Voyage 50' Vo Value 49 ’08 Incredible 49' Hunter Comfortable ‘00 Strong, 48 Tayana 48’ w/ Gen & Air J Boats J46 2001 Fast 46’ ‘00 461 46‘ Beneteau 53' Chantiers Amel Mango ‘86 53' Chantiers Amel Mango Est. 1981 Est. Email:[email protected] Tel:284-494-3260 Fax: 284-494-3535 Fax: Tel:284-494-3260 Email:[email protected] went to press — See ad on page 15. Compass CALENDAR and date(s) of the event of the organizing body to but plans change, so please [email protected] and the name and contact information Spotlight St. Maarten. www.i-m.co/smmta/SpotlightStMaarten in our monthly calendar, please send the name at the time this issue of contact event organizers directly for confirmation. Velauno Paddle Royal SUP Race, Puerto Rico. velauno.com Winter Solstice Mango Bowl Regatta, St. Lucia. Discover Caribbean Yacht Series, Ponce, Puerto Rico. Discover Caribbean Yacht Carriacou Photo Festival. www.carriacouphotofestival.org Caribbean Rum & Beer Festival, Grenada. Caribbean Rum & Beer Festival, St. Croix Yacht Club (SCYC), St. Croix International Regatta. www.caribbeancompass.com If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE Ponce, Puerto Rico. Discover Caribbean Dinghy Series, Havana International Jazz Festival, Cuba. Vincent. http://discoversvg.com Nine Mornings Festival, St. www.grenadagrenadines.com Carriacou Parang Festival. Jolly Harbour Yacht Club Regatta, Antigua. Jolly Harbour Yacht Club Golden Rock Regatta, St. Maarten to Statia. www.goldenrockregatta.com St. Barth Cata Cup (F18 catamarans). www.stbarthcatacup.com Barbados J/24 Match Racing Championships. www.sailbarbados.com Course de l’Alliance regatta, St. Martin. www.coursedelalliance.com BVI Schools’ Regatta. RBVIYC, www.rbviyc.org All information was correct to the best of our knowledge

Hanukkah BVI Charter Yacht Show. www.bvicrewedyachts.com/boatshow Triskell Cup Regatta, Guadeloupe. www.triskellcup.com Pete Sheals Memorial Match Race (invitational), BVI. RBVIYC, Gustav Wilmerding Memorial Challenge races, BVI. Antigua Charter Yacht Show. www.antiguayachtshow.com Jost van Dyke, BVI. Foxy’s Cat Fight (catamaran races), FREE Caribbean Compass On-line FREE Public holiday in St. Lucia (National Day) O’Neal & Mundy Commodore’s Cup, Tortola, BVI. RBVIYC, MOON Public holiday in Anguilla (National Heroes Day) FULL Public holiday in many places (Christmas Day) Public holiday in many places (Boxing Day) Nelson’s Pursuit Race, Antigua. www.antiguayachtclub.com New Year’s Eve, Old Year’s Night. Fireworks in many places, including (SMYC), SOL Optimist Regatta, St. Maarten. St. Maarten Yacht Club Funfish Tournament, Trinidad. http://ttgfa.com/events (Diwali) Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago British Virgin Islands Yacht Club (RBVIYC), Round Tortola Race, BVI. Royal of Vertieres Day) Public holiday in Haiti (Battle France. www.transatclassic.com Classic Transat to Barbados departs Settlement Day) and Cayman Islands Public holiday in Belize (Garifuna (Liberation Day) Public holiday in Montserrat MOON starts, Canary Islands to St. Lucia. Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) FULL Tobago Pirogue Festival, Man O’ War Bay, (Republic Day) Public holiday in Suriname (Independence Day) Public holiday in Barbados Day) Public holiday in Antigua & Barbuda (Independence Public holiday in Haiti (All Souls’ Day) Day) Public holiday in Dominica (Independence Public holiday in Dominica (Community Day of Service) to Tortola, BVI. Caribbean 1500 rally departs from Virginia, USA 1 - 2 www.rbviyc.org 1 – 2 1 - 3 2 - 8 8 - 16 12 - 20 Yacht Club (WEYC), (284) 495-4559 West End www.apassion4jazz.net/havana.html 13 15 www.rbviyc.org 16 - 24 19 21 21 - 23 25 26 28 31 31 Trellis Bay, Tortola; Admiralty Bay, Bequia; and Fort-de-France, Martinique. Public holiday in Montserrat; half-day holiday in Curaçao DECEMBER 1 – 2 www.discoverpyfc.com 9 – 11 10 10 10 - 11 fax (599) 544-2091, [email protected], www.smyc.com tel (599) 544-2075, www.jhycantigua.com 10 - 14 11 – Dec 17 tel (268) 770-6172, [email protected], (JHYC), Antigua. 13 14 - 18 16 – 18 www.discoverpyfc.com 17 17 - 18 Day) 18 18 [email protected], www.royalbviyc.org tel (284) 494-3286, 19 (Remembrance 23 23 - 25 24 - 25 25 www.worldcruising.com/arc 25 25 28 30 1 1 – 4 and Haiti (All Saints’ Day) NOVEMBER 2 2 – 3 www.rumandbeerfestival.com/grenada 2 - 4 http://foxysbar.com 3 4 4 www.worldcruising.com/carib1500 5 - 10 9 – 11 9 – 11 www.stcoixyc.com tel (340) 773-9531, fax 778-8350, [email protected], NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 DOMINICA YACHTSERVICES PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL, AZORES Incl. Pilots,Rigging Chandlery, Charts, TEL +351292391616FAX +351292391656 YACHT SERVICES - Relax!Leavetheworktous MID ATLANTIC Providing all vital services to Providing allvitalservices www.midatlanticyachtservices.com EU-VAT (16%)importation Duty free fuel(+10.000lt) Duty free Caribbean CompassMarketPlace Trans-Atlantic Yachts! www.dominicayachtservices.com [email protected] +767-448-7701 Fax +767-275-2851 Mobile/445-4322 Dominica Roseau &BaySt.Portsmouth 18 VictoriaSt. Hubert J.Winston [email protected] tel: (473)[email protected] CARRIACOU REALESTATE • wooden-warehammocks+moreuniquegifts Property ManagementonCarriacou Tel: (473)4438187Fax: 4438290 Phone (473)4436500orcallCH16 e-mail: [email protected] We alsohandleVilla Rentals& or contactCarolyn Alexanderat For fulldetailsseeourwebsite: • rareexotic arts+crafts Carriacou RealEstateLtd Sunday Brunch 11.30-14.30 Sunday Brunch young streetst.george's Reservations recommended Reservations Open 11.30-2.00for Lunch Situated ontheSouthSide Land andhousesforsale Tyrrel Bay,Tyrrel Carriacou Use ournewDinghyDock for yourboat,home+friends just stepsfromthecarenage 6.00 -9.00for Dinner Tuesday toSaturday www.carriacou.net Bar openallDay of Tyrrel Bay. Tyrrel of •jewelry grenada continuedonnextpage

www.tortugal.com [email protected] RIVER LODGE Tel: 502.5306.6432 Grenada AuthorizedDealer Jeff Fisher–Grenada(473)537-6355 and bluewatercruising. harsh environmentofthechartertrade well-built sailsthatarewellsuitedtothe for acompetitivequoteonruggedand Check outourwebsiteorcontactusdirectly S.I.M.S. Boatyard,True Blue,Grenada stainless steelandaluminiumitems. TechNick Ltd. In-House BrokerageIn-House Services ! ! & Freight Ocean on Rates Best welding. Fabricationandrepairof Engineering, fabricationand www.neilprydesails.com Tel: (473)536-1560/435-7887 Nick Williams, Manager [email protected] Grenada NEILPRYDE Sails We take the stress the stress fromaway take boating! We HHotel MarinaRestaurant o [email protected] [email protected] t e www.wholesaleyachtparts.com www.wholesaleyachtparts.com l (473) -6306 458 or420 -3024

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NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 . 2 12.1212 202012201220122012 2012. 2012. d ed ervede servedservedservedservedserved e r sre hts rehts rehts rehhts rehts rehts g rig ll rigll rigll riglll rigll rll r onononon. A A A ion. Aion. Aion. Aion. Aion. Aion. Aion. A t porat rporatrporatrporatrporatrporporatrporatrporatrp oo Co an ran Coran Coran Cran Coran Coran Coranran Co Co t atamatam CatamaCatamaCatamaCatamaCatamaCatamaCatamaCatamaCatamCata g i aig raig Load with options; Premium high-deﬁnition Prospec marine sound system, LED interior courtesy deck light and much more new equipment for 2013. Craig CraigCraig CraigCraigCraig CraigCraigCraig RichardDey.com “Literate, accessible, great!” RICHARD DEY Selected Bequia Poems Selected Bequia S “A charming history of yacht chartering” Adventures in the Trade Wind Adventures in the For more information visit www.bvispringregatta.org. Bob Phillips, chairman of the BVI Spring Regatta & Bob Phillips, chairman of the Hosted by Nanny Cay Resort and Marina on Tortola, includes the International Yacht Club Challenge and culminates in the awards ceremony for the overall prize winners on March 31st. Sailing Festival, said of the revitalized BVI Sailing Festival: “We felt it was time for something new to keep the event fresh and interesting, particularly for our regular competitors. After ten successful years of racing to the Bitter End Yacht Club on Virgin Gorda and back, it was time to offer something different.” the BVI Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival’s dates in 2013 are March 25th through 31st, to allow sailors to compete in several different regattas in the packed Caribbean racing calendar. The new-format Festival will run from March 25th through 28th, with registration for the main BVI Spring Regatta taking place along with the traditional Mount Gay Rum Welcome Party. Starting on the 29th, the three-day BVI Spring Regatta AT OO T B ST E Stainless.com Stainless.com SINCE 1990 before after WORLD’S FINEST Available at Caribbean Chandleries or at Caribbean Available Available at Caribbean Chandleries or at Caribbean Available Spotless Spotless Brush ON Rinse OFF No Rubbing. No Scrubbing. No Polishing. No Rubbing. No Scrubbing. Brush ON Rinse OFF No Scrubbing. No Polishing. No Rubbing. Makes Stainless Steel Sparkle. Makes Stainless Steel Makes Stainless Steel Sparkle. Makes Stainless Steel Spotless Stainless Spotless Stainless For more information visit www. Fresh Format for BVI Sailing Festival The organizers of the weeklong BVI Sailing Regatta & The BVI Sailing Festival programme includes a race and under the water — on the final day of the Festival, offering competitors the opportunity to discover the magic of some of the more than 60 islands that make up the British Virgin Islands. ond day. Regatta Base will be Buccaneer Beach Bar,ond day. Regatta Base will and our faithful sponsor Budget Marine is on board. We are talking to other parties as we expect the event to grow with at least 13 beach cats this year,” said Mirian. StMaartenMultiHullRegatta.com. Sailing Festival have announced changes to the format of the Sailing Festival portion of the festivities. around Tortola for the Nanny Cay Cup, a race to neighbouring Norman Island for some beach-time fun at Pirates Bar in The Bight, and then a chance to discover Tortola from a different perspective — on, off COMPACT POWER BOATS You . Biwi Magic …Regatta News Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean Seven Exciting Models! – Including Gas & Electric We Ship Anywhere – Fully Assembled Discounts for Resorts & Tour/Rental Companies XXXDSBJHDBUDPN Dealer Inquiries Welcome. CALL TODAY 407-290-8778 4BGFt2VJFUt$PNGPSUBCMFt%SZ3JEF n n n Continued from page 17 This multihull regatta started three years ago as a The Around St. Maarten Multihull Regatta 2013 will For more information see ad on page 17. New Organizer for Around St. Maarten The St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht Club Founding partners of the regatta include Caribbean The first online entry was received soon after the new Maarten Multihull Regatta has the Sailing Club St. Maarten Foundation as its new organizing authority. race organized by the Classic Yacht Club with Mirian Ebbers as Race Director. Last year Ebbers became the Regatta Organizer, with the event sanctioned by the St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht Club. The new foundation has been formed to allow the Multihull Regatta independence. take place February 22nd through 24th. “This year we will have two days of racing: the first day is around the island, with multiple shorter coursed races on the sec- can enter online at www.jollyharbourregatta. com/?page_id=9. Multihull Regatta Foundation and the Sailing Club St. Maarten Foundation jointly announced that the Around St. Developments (Antigua) Ltd, Budget Marine, Jolly Harbour Marina, Jolly Harbour Yacht Club, Jolly Harbour Merchants Association, and the Jolly Harbour Homeowners’ Association. regatta format was announced in early August: Geoffrey Pidduck’s modified 6 Metre, — NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 com E-mail Yachtsales@dsl-yachting. 2009HUNTER45DS229.000US 1978/2000FORMOSA56199.000US 1986OYSTER435135.000GBP 1987IRWIN44MKII109.000US 1997BENETEAU36CC49.900US 1980BISCAY3616.000US 1982CATALINA329.900US 1981 CAPEDORY3022.000US 514-8883 US$30,000 Mark,Tel:(340) gear, spareparts. er stovew/oven.Allsafety gal, water85.Propane3burn- heater (brandnew)Fuel32 refrigerator, freezer,water teries 2012.StCroixdavits, ator AIRX400,4group27bat- panels 290watts,windgener- finder GPS.IconVHF.Solar depth satelliteweatherplot Electronics E80Raymarine 2008. 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E-mail [email protected] woodwork.com Tel:(784)431-9500 for yachtorhomewww.bequia- BEQUIA -CLIFF’SFINEWOODWORKING www. 247sailing.net 7927 E-mail:[email protected] enced andreliable.Tel:(757)746- Capt. LouisHoneycutt,experi- 100 tonlicensed,powerandsail. Experienced captain/crew,USCG International bluewater. YACHT DELIVERIES Tel: (340)642-3489 stuff. ReturningearlyNov. ence. AllSTCWandTWIC USVI andBVIwatersexperi- Yacht orComercial.Extensive Term, Daysail,orDeliveries. to 200Ton,SailorPower. AVAILABLE LICENSED CAPTAIN Telfor BedeauTel:(473)442-6200 trees; westernsectionwooded. tion cultivatedwithvariousfruit from Soubisebeach.Easternsec- from Grenvillebyroadand1/2mile Soubise, St.Andrews,11/2miles per sq/ft.LocatedatTheVillain ft (3acres,1rood,19poles).US$1 GRENADA www.caribtrace.com Grenadines andTyrrelBay. views overlookingSouthern multi-acre tracts.Great CARRIACOU LAND, com E-mail: vincysurf.com Tel: (784)4951177email:louisjan@ minimum, excellentlong-termrates. breeze. Internet,cableTV.2weeks and patio,stunningview,cool bed studioapartment.Bigverandah Large 2bedroomhouseand/or1 LA POMPE,BEQUIA Wind Vane ST60/Radar/Chtplotter Aries Compass… PROPERTY FORSALE Advertisers Tel: (758)4528531 Support Support Yachtsales@dsl-yachting. Please Them! SERVICES RENTALS Approx.area150,000sq/ Our , 100 Ton or Mate , 100TonorMate the e akPit C 23 MP MP 34 19 CW MP MP PuertoRico 8 Trinidad 11 Panama Aruba Antigua Sea HawkPaints MP 40 Tortola Martinique SDV LogistiqueInternationale SVG 27 Rolling Thunder Renaissance Marina Red FrogMarina 31 39 Grenada Power Boats MP 40 Porthole Restaurant C/W MP Perkins Engines SVG Ottley HallMarina&Shipyard Grenada 13 On Deck Tortola 22 35 MP Off ShoreRiskManagement Panama DominicanRep. Neil PrydeSails MP Azores CW Multihull Company MP 18 Mid AtlanticYachtServices Trinidad Colombia PuertoRico McIntyre Bros.Ltd Trinidad Maritime PreservationLtd. Marine SolarTec MP Grenada Marina Zar-Par SVG Marina SantaMarta Marina Pescaderia Marc OneMarine Lucy Boat Live LobstersBequia SVG LIAT CW Le PhareBleu Kerry's MarineServices 10 Lots and

email: [email protected] accompanying classifiedsareUS$10. CLASSIFIEDS Pre-paid bythe10thofmonth. US 50¢PERWORD Include name,address and numbersincount. Line drawings/photos CW =Caribbean-wide MP =MarketPlacepages42to45

aauMrn Vnzea 22 MP Venezuela MP MP Trinidad MP Martinique Grenada YES Martinique 41 Xanadu Marine 12 MP MP WIND Martinique Grenada26/MP Wholesale YachtParts MP West PalmHotel SVG 29 Voiles Assistance Venezuela 16 Grenada Trinidad Venezuelean MarineSupply Guatemala MP Velocity WaterServices CW Turbulence Sails MP PuertoRico Trade Windshelpwanted MP Tortugal MarinaHotel 47 SVG 40 Tikal Arts&Crafts MP Technick Grenada 15 MP CW Tank andFuel St.Thomas Sunsail MarineCenter Grenada Sunbay Marina Grenada St.Maarten St. ThomasYachtSales St.Lucia St. LuciaYachtClubregatta MP Spotless Stainless Spice IslandMarine Slipway Restaurant Simoust Charters CHRIS DOYLE CHRIS NOVEMBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Guardian Media Limited, Trinidad & Tobago