HESPERIA 76 (2007) HAROLD NORTH FOWLER Pages 5?7-626 ANDTHE BEGINNINGS OF AMERICAN STUDY TOURS IN GREECE

ABSTRACT

Site-based study tours have been integral to the teaching of Greek archaeology at the American School of Classical Studies atAthens (ASCSA) since itwas as founded in 1881, and at other American institutions of higher education one well. The authors present the diary of such tour taken in 1883 by Harold North Fowler, amember of the first class of students at the ASCSA. Fowler's diary demonstrates the importance ?f travel in the training of archaeologists and is of further interest because of the immediacy of the personal impres a sions recorded by student of Greek archaeology toward the end of the 19th

century.

INTRODUCTION

can It iswidely acknowledged that travel be educational and inspirational.1 Since ancient and tour times, pilgrims, missionaries, adventurers, scholars, ists, along with merchants, diplomats, and soldiers, have visited the lands around the Mediterranean.2 The allure of antiquity has remained steady and strong for centuries. to Travel Greece by scholars and students might be said to have begun a a with Cyriacus of Ancona (1391-1452), member of fraternity of Renais 1.We are to Natalia sance merchants who ventured abroad for business.3 was one of grateful Cyriacus archivist of the to Vbgeikoff-Brogan, the first combine his work with the contemplation of ruins. His account American School of Classical Studies of his visits to the cities of Greek antiquity and his collections of coins atAthens, for her in some help finding were and inscriptions made with the true eye of the archaeologist.4 Of his of the photographs that illustrate this we article. We would also like to thank the mercantile activities learn very little; of his inspiration from firsthand editor o? and the of we are in no doubt. Until the to mass Hesperia anonymous knowledge antiquities floodgates reviewers for their on were suggestions tourism opened in the 20th century, many travelers who followed text. improving the to Cyriacus Greece had similar interests and motivations. From Jacob Spon 2. Eisner 1991. to and George Wheler in the 17th century SirWilliam Gell in the early 3.Weiss 1969, pp. 137-144; Bodnar to 2003. 19th, travelers aspired experience Greek antiquities at their source.5 Here we are interested in the of American educational travel 4. Schnapp 1993, pp. 110-114. emergence 5. Gell 1823. in as nascent Spon 1678; the 19th century part of the discipline of Greek archaeology

? The American School of Classical Studies at Athens 598 PRISCILLA M. MURRAY AND CURTIS N. RUNNELS

j??t:.L

i;l r':

:i? 'r

y-?,_

?:;?; II.Y-a

:ii-?

:I:i :::

-ii-:i

:::::::

-???* i ?-- :;:-: ::.:: ?:?::: : : ?:-?---: ::?i::? 1. Harold North Fowler as a :I Figure Harvard in 1880. undergraduate Photo courtesy Harvard University Archives

(Aegean prehistory, Classical and Byzantine studies). Upper-class, wealthy young men such as the American Nicholas Biddle undertook the Grand to an Tour of Europe refine their knowledge of antiquity in informal way to a were and acquire the polish of world view. They joined in the late 19th as century by numbers of students who traveled part of their professional training. The introduction of steam power encouraged the growth in student as as travel. Regularly scheduled steamships and trains, well the abolition of quarantine laws that had previously increased the time required for travel, made it easier for American students, even those of modest means, to explore the Greek world. In Greece, the American School of Classical Studies atAthens (hence or was forth, the School ASCSA) founded in 1881 by the Archaeological In to stitute of America (AIA) facilitate the study of antiquity by students from the United States.6 The founders and early directors of the School wished to rectify the neglect of archaeology in American institutions.7 The first ASCSA class learned Greek archaeology in part through field trips. This was approach firmly established by 1902 when Thomas Seymour wrote, 6. Seymour 1902; Lord 1947; in a summary of the first 20 years of the School, "one of the important part Dyson 1998, pp. 53-55. work of our School at Athens is to our students not to learn help simply 7.Winterer 2002, pp. 94,100. what has been said and published about Greece and its monuments, but 8. Seymour 1902, p. 19. 9. His "Sicilian also to become acquainted with Greece and its monuments themselves."8 diaries, Expedition 12 to a new March 23-April 1883," "Trip Harold North Fowler, graduate from Harvard College and one Thebes ect [sic]" and "Athens, of the earliest members of the AI was one of the first to Delphi, A, students attend are Dresden June-July 1883," in the the School (Fig. 1). Fowler kept diaries of the journeys he made while he archives of Case Western Reserve was a School is a regular member.9 One of these the record of trip around University. HAROLD NORTH FOWLER AND STUDY TOURS IN GREECE 599

we a the P?loponn?se in April 1883. In the following pages, present dis cussion and transcription of this diary in order to illustrate the importance of site-based study tours in the training of American archaeologists and the determination displayed by those early students in overcoming the difficulties of travel in Greece.10

AMERICAN TRAVELERS IN GREECE

can Travel to and within Greece be divided roughly into two periods. In the era preceding the introduction of steam power in the 19th century, was travel proceeded by sail, horse, and foot, and it slow, uncertain, and dangerous. In the period of steamships and trains, the telegraph, and the was more abolition of the quarantine, travel faster, predictable, and less

dangerous.11 era on Travelers during the first experienced conditions the road that would have been familiar to Pausanias in the 2nd century A.D. Fernand Braudel noted that in the 16th century itwas common for storms, adverse a winds and currents, the lack of ship, and the absence of proper charts to a an turn journey in theMediterranean into ordeal. His review of recorded were journeys shows that two to three months needed to traverse the length of the Mediterranean.12 Once inGreece, travelers followed unmarked, unmaintained, and un cart on paved bridle paths and tracks foot and by horse, carriage, and oxcart. more a They seldom covered than 20 miles day, often much less if the road, the weather, brigands, or accidents slowed their progress. Even for short was no trips, there way to avoid such impediments except by interrogating travelers coming from the other direction about conditions on the road or by sending messengers and scouts ahead to inquire. Travelers took their at lodging the end of each day wherever they could find it. Carrying sup on was as was plies pack animals necessary, food usually difficult to procure or along the road (Fig. 2). Except for government-maintained post stage was no systems, there regular provision for transportation, lodging, food, or was an security for travelers.13 Travel for centuries exercise in "roughing it," in the most literal, brutal sense. In addition, quarantines were established in the wake of the devastat ing and chronic outbreaks of plague that followed the 14th-century Black cause Death. These could delays of days if not weeks in each direction a when crossing border, extending trips into grueling journeys of many warns months' duration. Murray's Hand-Book for 1845 that quarantine "is 10. The diary has recently been the to which travelers in the East are on their donated to theASCSA Archives by the greatest annoyance exposed return to can no means authors. Europe. It is rigidly enforced, and by be evaded."14 Feifer or master a a ll.Tregaskis 1979, pp. 1-11; The captain of ship had to present bill of health at each port 1985, pp. 135-161; Hibbert 1987, on one of call. Depending the port from which had embarked, conditions 219-229. pp. on in the country, and the boat itself, travelers could be required to stay in 12. Braudel 1976, pp. 360-363. a lazaretto or hostel from 10 to 40 The 13.Tregaskis 1979, pp. 7-11; Hib quarantine anywhere days. lodging and which could be were at the bert 1987, pp. 19-39,215-233. food, appallingly bad, provided voyagers own 14. Murray 1845, p. xxvi. expense. 6oO PRISCILLA M. MURRAY AND CURTIS N. RUNNELS

Figure 2. On the trail inArcadia with a an donkey being driven by agoyiatis (muleteer). Photo courtesy ASCSA Archives, Theodore W. Heermance Papers

to Americans rarely traveled Greece during this period. One of the to a was a first leave record of his travels Nicholas Biddle, 20-year-old at who landed Patras in the spring of 1806. The editor of Biddies letters and travel diaries noted the prominence of certain classical ideals in those to writings, revealing "both why travel the Mediterranean, and especially travel to was useful and even a Greece, thought necessary for young man, and what effects this journey could have upon the traveler."15The purpose s was to on of Biddle trip mold his views politics and conduct in accordance with the ideals of Graeco-Roman antiquity.16 In this, Biddle is said to be "very much the philosophic traveler in quest of information, and he travels the sake own ... for of his education generally avoiding the picturesque and ... any subjective treatment of the landscape he has little emotion for wild places, because he went to the Mediterranean to learn and not to feel."17 In went other words, he seeking education through personal experience of the relics of classical culture in their setting, not unlike the American students who would follow him.

The second period of travel began early in the 19th century when were ser railroads built in continental Europe (1820-1840), regular steamer vice from Liverpool to theMediterranean was established (1833), and the scheduled lines of the Austrian Lloyd Company began Mediterranean a steamship service from Trieste (1837), eventually establishing route through the Gulf of Corinth to the Isthmus (1844).18 As the new technol to ogy gained momentum, it became possible travel from Liverpool to or no more Greece (viaMarseilles Malta) in than 10 to 14 days rather 15. McNeal 1993, 1. than two to three months. Other in their p. developments technology played 16. McNeal 1993, p. 6. The made it to make advance for part. telegraph possible arrangements 17. McNeal 1993, pp. 30-31. accommodation or to learn of local conditions of war and 18. xxvii. weather. Finally, Murray 1845, p. HAROLD NORTH FOWLER AND STUDY TOURS IN GREECE 6oi

b |_* G

'4:=?

rf' 1

3. The khan at the of Figure village the relaxation and eventual abolition of the quarantine laws in the 1860s on the road from must an era Georgitzana Sparta ushered in what have seemed like of miraculous speed and to Sinano (Megalopolis). Baird 1856, for those accustomed to the traditional conditions of travel. 173. Photo M. Hamilton efficiency p. was Henry Martyn Baird the first American undergraduate student to travel in Greece specifically for academic study.19 Although he still had to was to undergo quarantine, he able utilize regularly scheduled steamships across the Atlantic and inGreek waters. During the winter of 1851-1852, at on he attended lectures the University of Athens language, history, art, and archaeology. With Charles Newton from the British Museum (then the Vice-Consul for Mytilini) and another companion, Baird toured the P?loponn?se and central Greece. His sketch of the interior of the khan of Georgitzana in the central P?loponn?se,20 published in 1856, illustrates were the crude lodgings that available to travelers in the Greek country we side (Fig. 3).21 In Baird's account find all the elements of the modern educational tour beginning to take shape. Baird became a professor of at on history New York University, and it is significant that his influence educational institutions extended to the ASCSA, where he served on the Managing Committee from 1886 to 1906.22 an The founding of the School inAthens in 1881 encouraged increase inAmerican student travel and study inGreece. Harold North Fowler and seven at other students23 arrived the School in the fall of 1882. The only one was of them who knew anything about archaeology J. R. Sitlington Sterrett, who had traveled around Greece and Asia Minor for a year and

of variable 19. Larrabee 1957, pp. 256-257. (but generally poor) quality. J. R. Sitlington Sterrett, Franklin H. one 20. Khans ranged from simple 21.Bairdl856,p.l73. Taylor, and James Rignall Wheeler. room hovels to a few rooms on an 22. Lord 1947, pp. 11,343. Louis Bevier, who arrived two months of a a 23. Besides the was not a member upper story building surrounding Fowler, regular late, regular (Lord were members included M. courtyard where animals stabled. John Crow, 1947, pp. 241-242). and beds Frank E. Paul The proprietors provided food Woodruff, Shorey, 6o2 PRISCILLA M. MURRAY AND CURTIS N. RUNNELS a half beginning in 1875.24 Fowler mentioned in his account ofthat first was no year that there fixed program of study.25He suggested that the stu dents research topics of their choice concerning the archaeology of Athens, on was give talks site, and then read papers at the School, which initially near located in the central part of the city the Arch of Hadrian. Heinrich was a Schliemann frequent attendee at those School meetings. no a was an ex The first School trip, which lasted longer than day, cursion made by all of the students with the director of the School, Pro scene fessorWilliam Watson Goodwin of Harvard College, to examine the of the battle of Salamis. Based on his on-site observations, Goodwin later an wrote important paper about the position of the Persian forces.26 This work, according to Lord, "revolutionized historians' idea of this famous on battle."27 Fowler and other students went longer trips without Goodwin on to see more Greek antiquities the ground.28 As noted above, Fowler a kept diary of his 1883 journey around the P?loponn?se with James text Rignall Wheeler. The of that diary is transcribed in the Appendix below.

THEJOURNEY

Fowler andWheeler left Athens inmid-April 1883. The purpose of their was to journey to inspect ancient sites and their topographic settings and see museums were antiquities in (Fig. 4). They guided by the maps and a topographic descriptions prepared by Curtius and Bursian.29 They made counterclockwise circuit from Athens to the west coast of the P?loponn?se were to visit the ongoing excavations at Olympia, where they joined by a on Georg Schneider, teacher from Berlin who had traveled with Fowler to earlier trips.30 From Olympia they traveled south the Temple of Apollo at Bassai and on to the site of Messene. Near Kalamata they encountered contin Goodwin and his party traveling in the opposite direction. They over to to ued the Taygetos Mountains Sparta before turning inland the to central P?loponn?se visit Megalopolis and Tripolitza (modern Tripoli) east to and the archaeological sites in the vicinity. Finally, they headed the to steamer to Argolic Gulf and Nauplion in order take the back Athens. The trip took 17 days. Fowler andWheeler traveled by train, steamship (with their smaller tenders from the shore), river ferry, and horse-drawn carriage. Most of the was on were trip accomplished, however, horseback and by walking; they two to as as other often accompanied by guides show them the route, well as to to sites. local guides needed direct them archaeological They stayed in hotels whenever possible, but in the countryside their accommodations were to one generally in khans similar the illustrated by Baird (Fig. 3). The to more roads roads ranged from simple bridle paths wider, level carriage and chauss?es (dual carriageways).

24. Seymour 1902, p. 13; Lord 26. Goodwin 1885. 29. Curtius 1851-1852; Bursian 1947, p. 274. 27. Lord 1947, p. 39. 1862-1872. 25. Fowler 1947, pp. 274-275. 28. Lord 1947, p. 39. 30. Fowler 1947, p. 275. HAROLD NORTH FOWLER AND IN STUDY TOURS GREECE 603

atras

Athens Peiraeus Z~~~~anM~r__ '/ ~N. Korinthos-Kalamaki Py~rgosAlpheios, la Katakolo P Mantineia Argos i l Samiko Tava Nauplia TripolitzaeTgeaA Kakovatos edaA ae \ Bouz IONIAN Mea o IONIANPhIgalla ( Il)tza) (Sinano) S Melig lla SEA Messne urkano)AN edon ( Kalamata T rP Nisi Latha Sparta A myklae < AEGEAN Y / L, ~Eurotas SEA

* Place without Visited Ruins 40 Miles

A Place with Visited Ruins o 40 Km EMcC 2007

Figure 4.Map of the P?loponn?se in 1883 showing the places visited by Incidents of Travel Fowler (with his spellings). Vlaka, Fowler andWheeler took an electric tram from the School to a between Pavlitza and Melighala, Piraeus, could not be located. E. McClennen steamer to a across the and scheduled steam Kalamaki, carriage Isthmus, to ships from Corinth to Patras and Patras Katakolo, the port of Olympia. It took about 28 hours to reach Katakolo; of those, 16 hours were spent on the journey from Athens to Patras. From Katakolo the pace of travel slowed a dramatically. After taking short train ride from Katakalo to Pyrgos, the men a on a young walked three and half hours good road from Pyrgos to Olympia. For the remainder of the journey, the exigencies of travel dif fered scarcely at all from those experienced by travelers in centuries past. Pausanias, Cyriacus, Spon, Wheler, and Gell would all have recognized the routine of preparing horses and packs for the day's travel, the fatigues or of riding all day?sometimes for 14 hours more?and the frustrations of inadequate food, poor lodging, and bad weather. The poor quality of food and its occasional scarcity would have impelled the travelers to keep moving. After they left Olympia and before they were to reached Nauplion, Fowler and his companions rarely able procure anything in the countryside other than eggs and rice, with the addition of the occasional bits of chicken (sometimes very badly prepared), lamb, wine, and bread. At Vlaka, Fowler writes, "we could get nothing to eat 604 PRISCILLA M. MURRAY AND CURTIS N. RUNNELS

n;,

*, ? t Jk"' I ri r I.L*- t I0?ir ? t t 1 .r' i I o??;?CJd

z?a?I??`""i,: h? 1

* I:1 :i ?c

Figure 5. A typical khan in the late 19th century. Photo courtesy ASCSA Archives, Theodore W. Heermance Papers

a can but bread."31 They had brought of American corned beef for such emergencies. Today it seems odd that basic foodstuffs were sometimes not once was an to be had, while only (at Pavlitza) coffee, imported article, unobtainable. Presumably the limited menu was due to the lack of advance a notice of the arrival of the travelers, rather than scarcity of food in the countryside. Whatever the cause, preparation always seemed to have taken a long time. one were As might expect, the khans dirty and uncomfortable (Fig. 5). were no a At Sinano, Fowler wrote that "there beds but they spread lot of on at to rugs the floor."32 At the khan Pavlitza, the travelers had sleep in a small room with three other men, two women, and two children; at the same a or ran over khan, dog cat Fowler's legs in the middle of the night. At the village ofMelighala, the landlady watched them dress and undress, even helping to tuck Schneider into bed. were The weather cooperated for the most part, and they seriously was on inconvenienced only once by rain. This the way to Kalamata, a a where they were disturbed in their lodgings by "caf? chantant," tavern one were room with music "in full blast,"33 and at point driven out of their one by the noise. This is discomfort of Fowlers trip still encountered by travelers in Greece today. one as a Prices might strike high. Fowler kept careful record of his came or expenses, and for 17 days of travel, his total outlays to $57, $3.35 one per day. Nevertheless, when compares Fowler's expenses for guides, horses, and food with the estimates given in contemporary guidebooks, to current not they appear reflect rates.34 Money evidently did present major problems. Fowler probably carried gold and small change for most of his expenses, and letters of credit from banks in the United States and 31. Leaf 23 verso; p. 616, below. Europe could be exchanged at banks in Athens and in major towns like 32. Leaf 42 recto; p. 621, below. For travel within Greece, or issued inAthens Tripolitza. passports passes 33. Leaf 32 verso; p. 618, below. were until well after the middle of the 19th but these necessary century,35 34. Baedeker 1889, pp. xii-xxii. are Baedeker xxvi. details not mentioned in the diary. 35. 1894, p. HAROLD NORTH FOWLER AND STUDY TOURS IN GREECE 605

Figure 6. A "bug bag" for sleeping, with attached head net. Drawing P.M. Murray, after Murray 1872, p. 6

were once a Although brigands major problem in the countryside, Fowler and his comrades apparently wandered about without apprehension or firearms. At the same time, however, Goodwin and his party were shad owed by Greek soldiers charged with their protection.36 This is evidence of on the growing security imposed the countryside in the wake of the Dilessi a affair, scandalous episode of brigandage that involved the kidnapping and murder of four travelers on the road toMarathon in 1870.37 seem to a concern Health problems do not have been major for the was were travelers. Wheeler unwell while they in Nauplion, and Fowler a some caught cold along the way and needed whale oil for chapped lips, but for the bulk of the trip, their youth and simple diet carried them were through. Travelers warned inMurray's Handbook to avoid travel in a the P?loponn?se during the hot months for fear of malaria, serious dan ger.38 It would be interesting to know if Fowler heeded the advice offered use a inMurray's Handbook to "bug bag" for protection from bedbugs and was a other insects (Fig. 6).39 This contraption sleeping bag sometimes a to combined with mosquito-net tent for the head. Although awkward was common. get into, it popular before insecticides became were even Fowler faced other travel challenges that "arduous and dan gerous" because he was determined to increase his knowledge of Greek were a measure archaeology.40 His difficulties, however, mitigated by strong of good luck. Fowler writes, for example, that the path up to the temple at was moon was Bassai "frightfully steep and stony."41 Fortunately, the out to light their way down, and they "reached Pavlitza without mishap."42 a Fowler's horse fell while crossing the Neda River, but he only "got little were wet."43 On the way from Mantineia to Tripolitza, the carriage they

36. Lord 1947, p. 39. 41. Leaf 21 verso; p. 615, below. 37. Jenkins 1961. 42. Leaf 22 recto, verso; p. 615, 38. Murray 1884, pp. 6,149. below. 39. 6. 43. 23 below. Murray 1872, p. Leaf verso; p. 616, 40. Sanborn 1956. 6o6 PRISCILLA M. MURRAY AND CURTIS N. RUNNELS

/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~t / bP -1?

ran a Figure 7. A steamship typical of traveling in into donkey and its rider, knocking them completely over, the vessels that served local but no one seems to have been hurt. ports in southern Greece in the late 19th Fowler and his companions hurried through their travels. Until rails century. Photo courtesy ASCSA Archives, were laid from Corinth to in the best back to Nauplion April 1886, way Theodore W. Heermance Papers was Athens at the end of one's trip by steamship from Nauplion (Fig. 7). were so Schedules unreliable and sometimes not followed at all, perhaps were not to steamer extra they hoping miss the and be forced to add days to their trip.44

Learning Archaeology

The diary reveals Fowler's budding interest in sculpture and architecture. was at He particularly interested in the sculptures Olympia, visiting the museums 44. noted that steam there twice to view the Apollo from the west pediment of the Sandys (1887) were schedules in Greece rarely Temple of Zeus and the Hermes of Praxiteles. Fowler wrote, "I could stay ship or collected in one and before those two statues. I never saw such a face as the published place indefinitely grand were at that they sometimes changed At several sites he made careful observations and drew Apollo."45 plans. short notice. At for he drew a of the fortress He Samikon, example, plan (Fig. 8, top). 45. Leaf 14 recto; p. 614, below. also referred to Curtius's book on the P?loponn?se, which he carried with 46. Curtius 1851-1852. 47. In addition to architec him.46 At Mantineia he made another drawing of architecture that inter drawing one tural plans for Samikon (leaf 17 verso, ested him?a gate and two towers (Fig. 8, bottom). All but of the nine p. 614, below) andMantineia (leaf 46 sketches Fowler made in his were of architectural elements.47 diary recto, p. 622, below), Fowler sketched Fowler was to teach himself while on this at endeavoring archaeology straight-cut and rounded capitals was trip, although it not always easy. He consulted Bursian's map atMes Olympia (leaf 8 recto, p. 612, below); sene a and the elements from but had difficulty in following it.48He recounted that "we found lot following tower more are Messene: window, top stones of of foundations?many than in the map?but couldn't tell which tower, end of tower 27 recto, was which .... we some foundations which I called the of gable (leaf passed temple a verso, p. 617, below), and double gate Artemis Limnatis. I have been but if that isn't the we may wrong, temple, (leaf 28 recto, p. 617). His remaining couldn't find it."49 was a sktech of stirrup spur (leaf 24 on The knowledge that Fowler gained this trip and others formed the recto, p. 616, below). 48. Bursian 1862-1872. basis for his later studies and publications, inwhich he acknowledged the 49. Leaf 29 contribution of on-site to his of the Of his recto, verso; p. 617, study understanding subject.50 below. first Greek he "we were not for work inGreece experience wrote, prepared in 50. Examples of his publications as are we a students prepared nowadays, but absorbed good deal of knowl clude Fowler 1885,1916,1927. we on to Fowler 277. edge, much of which, and more, passed later others."51 51. 1947, p. HAROLD NORTH FOWLER AND STUDY TOURS IN GREECE

BBSSm ^ ^ -v^

jr "O.:-^ fcctf

H-?*? ^lT&~ -M ?ufo Mptf-. 1#**^, *?*>?' **-***, p?tz**? * #?/7 < ^F t^j

' *****.^?-

-? - *v s l sA jN^ ?*

leaves from Figure 8. Manuscript verso Fowler s diary: (top) 17 and 18 recto (Samikon); (bottom) 45 verso ca. and 46 recto (Mantineia). Scale 2:3. Photos M. Hamilton 6o8 PRISCILLA M. MURRAY AND CURTIS N. RUNNELS

.w

.4

K

Figure 9. Saddling horses and load - j ~-~:-% ca. a ~ " ing pack animals, 1895, for V~l~~T" tour led byWilhelm D?rpfeld. Photo courtesy ASCSA Archives, Theodore W. Heermance Papers

CONCLUSIONS

to Prior the opening of the ASCSA, the beginnings of American self tours as guided study inGreece part of professional archaeological training maybe traced to Henry Martyn Baird,J. R. Sitlington Sterrett, and Alfred on a Emerson, Sterrett's companion trip in the 1870s.52 The first class of students at the School in 1882/1883 recognized the value of site visits to further their education, but because of the lack of professor-led trips (except one for the excursion with the director William Watson Goodwin), they were on own. obliged to travel their In the next few years, ASCSA students to continued visit archaeological sites by themselves and occasionally with the directors.53 tours to Study led by the School directors archaeological sites outside of not a Attica did become regular part of the School program for all members were until 1886/1887. In the fall ofthat year, regular excursions made by the seven to near students view archaeological remains Athens.54 In the spring, a Wilhelm D?rpfeld and the School director, Martin L. D'Ooge, led trip as through the P?loponn?se (Fig. 9). Thereafter, Lord wrote, "for the next .... half-century trips under the direction of the staff would be taken to Greek sites in Attica and elsewhere in Greece."55 Organized School trips are have continued to the present day, and there many similar site-based tours some study for students organized by other American institutions, of which have campuses in Greece. Students have of course continued their own as self-guided visits to archaeological sites well.

52. Emerson was a to visiting professor Student, Thomas Eckfeldt, traveled Frederic De Forest Allen, and another at was one the School for 1897-1898 and the P?loponn?se and Asia Minor with with him to the mines at Lavrion to elected the Managing Committee in James Cooke Van Benschoten, director inAttica (Lord 1947, pp. 40-41, 43). 1897 (Seymour 1902, p. 53; Lord 1947, of the School. In 1885/1886, student 54. Lord 1947, p. 43. Walter one to p. 359). Miller took trip the P?lo 55. Lord 1947, p. 47. 53. In 1884/1885, the one enrolled ponn?se without the School director, HAROLD NORTH FOWLER AND STUDY IN TOURS GREECE 609

With the exception of Franklin H. Taylor, all of the students in the on first class at the School went to hold professorships at American insti tutions.56 Fowler andWheeler, partners in travel during their first year at a on the School, published book together based what they had learned from their on-site studies inGreece.57 Their Handbook of Greek Archaeology, was published in 1909, the first textbook of classical archaeology written was for university instruction, and it used for many years.58 an Harold North Fowler became important figure in the history of Greek archaeology, contributing to knowledge through his scholarship, but also molding the discipline through his teaching, editing, and administra tive efforts. After he finished his Ph.D. at the University of Bonn (1885), to at he returned home teach Harvard University, Phillips Exeter Academy, at and the University of Texas before settling permanently Western Reserve as University (now Case Western Reserve University) in Ohio Professor career as of Greek in 1893. In his long he served the first secretary of the as AIA, the AIA's vice-president for 20 years, and as editor-in-chief of the American Journal ofArchaeology for 10 years. He returned to the School for as an two terms annual professor in 1903-1904 and 1924-1925. Fowler as a a remained active scholar and teacher in the field of Greek archaeology 56. Lord 1947, pp. 241-242. until the 1950s. He died in 1955.59 He lived to see trains, automobiles, 57. Fowler and Wheeler 1909. and become modes of for the most 58. Dyson 1998, p. 105. airplanes popular transport, replacing, the and characteristic of his first 59. Sanborn 1956; Dyson 1998, part, horses, carriages, steamships trip pp. 104-106. to Greece. APPENDIX TRANSCRIPTION OF THE DIARY

a a common The diary is notebook with blue marbled boards, type in the x a late 19th century and small enough (10 14.7 cm) to carry in pocket. a It iswritten legibly in ink and has 56 leaves (112 pages) plus title page. are seven text. There two plans and other smaller sketches in the Fowler used the abbreviations" W" and "S" respectively for his traveling companions Wheeler and Schneider. He calculated prices and expenses in a one was francs (often making mistake in his addition). At that time franc one one was to equivalent to Greek drachma, U.S. dollar equivalent five were one drachmas, and five dollars equivalent to English pound. Editorial comments or definitions of unfamiliar terms are given in square brackets. Fowler's page headings have been omitted here. Leaf verso are numbers and sides, recto (r.) and (v.), shown in parentheses in the margins. The title and date entries have been italicized in this transcription; all other italics indicate Fowler's emphasis.

Trip in thePeloponnesos. April 14th-30th 1883. (Title page)

Kalamaki (Ir.) Mo. Korinthos Patras Zante Katakolo Pyrgos Olympia Kr?stena

Tavla Samikon Kakovatos Bouzi Phigalia (Pavlitza) Bassae Vlaka Meligala [Melighala] Vburkano (Methone [Ithome], Messene) Kalamata Latha HAROLD NORTH FOWLER AND STUDY TOURS IN GREECE 6ll

Sparta Sinano (Megalopolis) Tripolitza Mantineia Tegea Argos Nauplia Athens

v. (1 ) Saturday April 14th friend a room in same Baumgarten's [a who rented the house that Fowler lived in] alarm-clock, which I had borrowed, went off at 5.45 and I got up. After finishing my preparations for my journey I went to the Railway station where I took my coffee and waited for Wheeler. He came in time for the 7 o'clock train, and we went to and on steamer. we to down the Peiraeus board the About 8.15 began and steamed out of the us a laden (2r.) move, harbor towing after barge with lumber. The weather was fine and we ourselves. the a enjoyed Angelo, dragoman [pi. dragomans, hired who handled all the for construct interpreter arrangements foreign travelers, the ing itinerary, hiring horses, arranging accommodations and meals, bargaining with the natives, and making payments] of the H?tel dAngleterre inAthens, was aboard with a party of English ladies, and he told me a little about our route. A Scotch was also aboard. We had a breakfast very pleasant clergyman pretty good about 10 o'clock, and arrived at Kalamaki about noon. There we disembarked and across the in steam drove Isthmus carriages furnished by the boat company. We saw where work on the canal was on Corinthian canal was in (2v.) going [the completed drive across the Isthmus must have an 1896]. The lasted nearly hour. The scenery was fine but the was is a fine foreground always rather barren. The Akro-Korinthos high hill?higher than I had thought and of very bold outline. Neo-Korinthos is an little On the we went to our new uninteresting village. reaching village directly (3r.) steamer, the "Thessalia." Angelo and his party stopped at Kalamaki. The Thessalia didn't sail until 3 1/2 o'clock. The sky clouded over partly, and we had some very fine cloud toward the south. To the north the of effects, especially snowy peaks were in on we a Helicon and Parnassos full sight. Later had shower after which a rainbow with the Akro-Korinthos out behind it. gorgeous appeared, standing About 6 o'clock we had an excellent dinner, after which we smoked some of the name (3v.) Scotchman's cigarettes and walked the deck. The Scotchman's is A. Drum mond Paterson from Fifealine. In the I had a of some two evening nap hours. About 11 p.m. I went on deck, and we looked at the stars and coasts until about 12 when we reached Patras. to we went There, bidding farewell Paterson, aboard the steamer "Athens" (A9r|vai) and went to bed.

Expenses Coffee .15 to Peiraeus 1.05 1.20 Boat to steamer .55 &c Breakfast 2.50 tips .35 2.85 Dinner 3.50 Boat to "A9r|vai" .75 4.25 Steamer fare to Katakolo 1st class 42.60 Total 50.90

(4r.) Sunday, April 15th we When I awoke this morning were in the harbor of Zakynthos (Zante) and was it 7 1/2 o'clock. Presently they lowered a gang-plank which passed my port hole so that who went or down looked in me. It also to everyone up upon began at so rain in the port hole, I got up.When I went on deck itwas still raining in (4v.) the harbor, but the town of Zakynthos lay in sunlight. "Zante, fior di Levante" 6l2 PRISCILLA M. MURRAY AND CURTIS N. RUNNELS

is a not unfounded of admiration this town lies expression for lovely spot. The nestled at the foot of high bold hills about its quiet harbor, forming one of the most attractive I have seen for some time. While we were at Zante I places lying accidentally discovered that the chief engineer of the "AGfVvai"was an Englishman (rather Scotchman) and had quite a conversation with him. The rain stopped and we had a beautiful sail out of the harbor. Cephallonia and the mainland were both (5r.) in sight.We had a good breakfast at 10 o'clock and reached Katakolo at 11.About half an hour after we landed, the train left for Pyrgos which we reached about half an hour later. is a considerable town of some I Pyrgos quite 10,000 inhabitants should think. We went to a caf? where Wheeler wrote a letter, and we both drank coffee. Presently we started off (going first to the Post-office) for Olympia, which (5v.) we reached an 3 hours over a road. after easy walk of 1/2 very good The country here is singularly beautiful, and very well cultivated. The Alpheios winds through a broad rich valley bordered on both sides by steep bold hills. On a hill above the excavations lies the of Here we went to the village Apo??oc (Drouva). best-looking house and asked for Dr. D?rpfeld who we knew was in the neighborhood. We (6r.) him in the we and to me and found house where asked, after saying good-day being introduced toWheeler he took us to the house of Tecopyo?, the former cook of the German excavations. Here we our former in our to found companion trip Dr. Schneider of Berlin. He seemed to see Argos, Mykenae, &c., Georg glad us, and introduced us to Professor of We were his companion Schwabe T?bingen. and for the Germans out we presently left alone, got ready dinner. Seeing walking, (6v.) went and them. On the to them we a fine view of the excava joined way enjoyed tions. the Germans on of a hill at the sunset. Here we We overtook top looking met Mrs. D?rpfeld and Frau Siebold. The latter is associated with D?rpfeld in making the plans, &c. for the museum here at Olympia. Frau D?rpfeld is a pretty little woman who reminds me of "cousin" Brewster of Va. my Sophia Hampton, (7r.) memories. a sunset we returned to the house to After enjoying glorious dinner. roast were our We dined pretty well off soup and hare. Schneider and Schwabe at In the the and Siebold came over and we companions table. evening D?rpfelds for a of hours. left us we went drank wine &, coffee and talked couple When they to bed in very good soft beds. Expenses (7v.) Coffee .20 Breakfast 2.50 2.70 Boat 1.00 R.way to Pyrgos 1.40 Caf? .50 2.90 .20Wine .10 Garters .30 .60 Oranges Total 5.20 Last Total 50.90 Total for trip to date 56.10

Monday April 16th a rest we about and after coffee went down After very good night's got up 6.30, hill across the to the excavations. at the N.W. the and Kladeus We began corner, not to and looked first at the gymasium [sic].This is wholly excavated, but enough (8r.) show the Then we the and went to the Heraion. ground plan. passed Philippeion, This latter had 6 x 17 columns (Doric) of very various styles. Some of the capitals are while others are much rounded and swollen very straight-cut [sketch] very The are also and even the diameters of the col [sketch]. flutings very various, we umns vary. After the Heraion went to the Exedra of Herodus Atticus and the 12 treasure houses. These stand in a line at the foot of the hill of Kronos, with a (8v.) retaining wall behind them and a terrace in front. Just east of the Heraion and in of are remnants of the Metroon. in front the treasuries the very dilapidated Just front of the last treasury (that of Gela) is the entrance (arched) to the stadion.We HAROLD NORTH FOWLER AND STUDY TOURS IN GREECE 613

went out then trenches saw both ends of the Stadion. (9r.) through the and The space between is not excavated. to the Altis we the or Returning passed along Echo-hall stoa to the Leonidaion, back of which in a corner we saw the house of Nero. West of the Leonidaion is a confused mass of ruins of which we could make nothing until we came to the Bouleuterion. It was now ten o'clock, the time at which Profes sor Schwabe was to leave so we started for "bakali" Georgios' [a country general often a to take to We a little (9v.) store, gathering place meals] say good-bye. stopped while at the Temple ofZeus. Some of the columns of this temple liewith the drums in lines as in the same direction:?almost as an regular they fell,?all striking example of the action of an earthquake as in the temple of Herakles (Temple C) x at Selinunto. This temple of Zeus had 6 13 columns. The curve of the capitals (lOr.) is excellent, and the whole building seems to have been very little inferior to the course was as as Parthenon. Of the poor material of which it built, well its ruined condition make it much less than we were produce impression the Parthenon. As the excavations near the Heraion we met leaving Professor Schwabe and returned with him to the of Zeus. He was to leave temple evidently very sorry Olympia. our (lOv.) He called attention to several of the beauties of the Temple of Zeus and to some of the the Heraion thro' which we went on our to peculiarities of way the bakali. At the bakaliWheeler and I only stayed a few minutes. Then we got a guard and went to the museum. In the first are a of building great many scraps bronze, and and also a number of of both marble, terra-cotta, interesting pieces sculpture (llr.) inmarble and bronze. The right foot and left (?) hand of the Hermes of Praxiteles as as well the head and part of the body of the Infant Dionysos are here. Among a the bronzes relief with winged griffins and some griffins [sic] heads are the most The next we entered is a mere most striking. building shed, but it contains the of in existence. on are glorious specimens sculpture Lying the floor many of the (llv.) Centaurs and other figures from the pediments of the temple of Zeus, while still others are on a low shelf one along side of the shed. One entire metope (Herakles two more are near ?c Atlas) and fragments of the door. The Nike of Paionios lies on the floor so that no of its can idea beauty be gained. Near the further end of the shed stands the great Apollo from thewest pediment of the temple, and before the Apollo stands the Hermes of Praxiteles. The first is colossal and majestic. The (12r.) calmness and repose of the beautiful face impressed me profoundly. The Hermes is a most beautiful is an at an perfectly man,?the Apollo almost successful attempt of the divine. The Hermes is the more in and expression perfect execution, appeals ours strongly to [sic] human sympathies. The Apollo made me feel that Iwas in a me a awe. (12v.) higher presence, and impressed with feeling of From this building we went into another where were a number of rather only uninteresting fragments, and into a court a number of statues and I containing inscriptions all think, of Ro man times. From the museum we went to we again the excavations which entered at the east end. We saw first the then the and then Palaestra, Byzantine church, the South West whatever it have been. tour Building may Our of the excavations was and after a little while at the of we went (13r.) completed, stopping Temple Zeus up to the Bakali for lunch.We found that the Professor had not yet gone, and all our German friends were about the table. were sitting together We quite late, for were they eating nuts and drinking coffee.We had a good lunch of sardines, eggs, roast lamb and coffee. While we were the rest smoked and eating sang "Morgen m?ssen as a (13v.) wir verreisen" farewell to the Professor. Just as we were thro' lunch, the all and we the Professor to his company rose, accompanied carriage. Then Wheeler and I returned to the excavations. visited the We gymnasium, the Palaestra, the Zeus we temple, Heraion, Metroon, and the treasuries, after which climbed the hill of Kronos and sat on the the view. The excavations out top enjoying lay spread before us as in a and was map, the landscape wonderfully beautiful. From the hill 6i4 PRISCILLA M. MURRAY AND CURTIS N. RUNNELS

we went to the museums For some time we stood before the again. Apollo and the (14r.) Hermes. I could before those two statues. I never saw such a stay indefinitely grand face as the We tried to into a where were some of Apollo. get building fragments &c. but the wouldn't turn in so we it and went inscriptions key the lock, gave up up to the village. In our room we talked and wrote. We decided to go tomorrow (14v.) with Schneider to Samikon where there is an ancient fortress. We went out to see the but were too late. The view from the hill sunset, just was, however, glorious. To thewest stretched the seawith the island of Zakynthos and the harbor of Katakolo, while to the East rose the purple hills of Arkadia. At our feet the green fertile val ley of the Alpheios was spread out with the Alpheios winding along like a silvery (15r.) ribbon. Soon we came back to our room where we on dined quite well chicken and went over to to (canned) string beans. After dinner Schneider say good-bye the D?rpfelds, and we soon followed him.We stayed some two hours talking and German then said and came home to our singing songs, good-bye beds. Expenses at museums .70 Tips Last total 56.10 Total to date 56.80

Tuesday April 17th ( 15v. ) at in at was We got up 6, and succeeded starting 7. The morning delightfully clear, and the snowy peaks to the East shone brightly in the sunlight. As we passed in in the us a sight of the "Deutsches Haus," Siebold stood garden and waved farewell. a so we our to The first part of the way is down steep hill, walked before horses the is a swift with about as much water as the river ferry. The Alpheios very stream, inWestfield [Connecticut]. The ferry-boat was moved to the further bank, sowe (16r.) had to wait. The was on our side of the but in the ferryman river, night somebody on had taken the boat and crossed, leaving the boat the other side. After waiting half an hour, we were ferried across for a man came from the other side. The road some as far as the of Makrisia was and from there for time, village uninteresting, to Kr?stena not much better. Kr?stena is a where we large village stopped long enough to drink some wine. Wheeler can't drink Greek wine since he got sick near (16v.) a From Kr?stena to is The Thebes few weeks ago. Tavla the road charming. last part of the way the sea is full in sight. Tavla lies in the flat near the sea.There, at 11 we a moments at the and then went to the about o'clock, stopped few bakali, us an to to the N.E. corner of the remains of Samikon. It took just 1/2 hour walk are are on a some wall. The ruins very extensive, and situated the top of hill 1000 ft. high. The walls are built of the hard grey rock of the neighborhood, each wall be- (17r.) formed two faces of hewn stone filled in with unhewn stones. No mortar ing by was to me a to used. The work seemed little inferior that of Rhamnus, Phyle, and at At some the wall was without even Fort Euryalus Syracuse. points polygonal an at courses most stones were attempt horizontal of stone, but for the part the rectangular and regularly laid.We left Tavla at 11.30 and did not get back until (17v.) narrow about 2 p.m. [sketch plan, Fig. 8, top: "This plan is too from D toA cf. Cur a tius Peloponnesus"]. The circuit of the walls from A to D is over mile. The walls are on of a which is at some so that no wall was all the edge declivity points steep necessary. The ground on which thewall is built is very irregular, the highest point being the rock C though B is nearly as high. On the sides toward the west and (18r.) north this hill to the while on the east and south are ravines. slopes directly plain, to we no to Tavla we ate some or thick From D A found walls. Returning 7rnXdc(pr| at we were a man came in and asked in rice soup the bakali. While thus engaged, we were English ifwe were Englishmen. I told him Americans. He then said his master K. Antonios wished to offer us his house for the night ifwe wanted to stay HAROLD NORTH FOWLER AND STUDY TOURS IN GREECE 615

(18v.) there. Of course we couldn't do that, but went and called on Antonios to thank him and ask our way.We found him half dressed, for we had disturbed him in his siesta. He was and us some very cordial, gave all coffee. After much talking with him and five or six others we decided to ride on to Kakovato (KocKO?axo)which we reached about 5 1/2 o'clock. The road was level and sandy a good part of the between a sort of sea.We our way lagoon and the passed khan (Hagios Isidoros) where we had some wine. Kakovato is rather a clean little where the village keeper (19r.) of the khan seemed glad to see us. First he took us to his shopwhere we drank some mastich [liquor distilled from wild pistachios], then he showed us a room with one a went to a very wide bed. We stayed there little while, and then down sand hill the beach and saw the sun down in sea. we went to our room by go the Then back and waited until 8 1/2 before we got anything to eat. At last we had our dinner: (19v.) 7tT|A?(pr|which was fair, very poor wine, and a boiled chicken which had never been cleaned. We couldn't stand and it wasn't so we ate some corned it, good, Chicago beef I had brought. After dinner we had some coffee, and then talked some time with our and some others about our route. we went guides At last they left us, and to bed. About the best I've seen was view Samikon. thing today the from

Expenses Ferry 1.65Wine .50 Lunch 1.20 3.35 Shoes for guide 1.65 1.65 Total 5.00 Last total 56.80 Total for trip to date 61.80

(20r.) Wednesday April 18th Our beds were not good, but we managed to sleep. Schneider had got a bed made for him on the floor. About 6 1/2 we started out, and in a little under two hours we reached the khan of Bouzi (Mtio?Ci?).Our road had been level nearly all the and was nowhere sea. was at way, very far from the The scenery very pretty and trees and with the to the left tractive?green fields, pine poplars, mountains and the sea to the All this is well numerous streams. (20v.) right. country watered by Bouzi is at the mouth of the now called names are Neda> Bouzipotami. Our guides' The odoraki and Georgios. Theodoraki hurt his leg yesterday and walks lame, but he over the well. We left Bouzi about 10 a.m. gets ground very Our way lay up the about half an hour thro' that in narrow Neda;?for open fields.?after the valley. The bed of the river is nearly 100 yards wide and occupies the flat land from hill (21r.) to hill. The river flows in several streams about this broad bed. Our path crossed and recrossed these streams several times. After about an hour of this flat valley, we turned off up the hills to the left, and, passing thro'Marilina arrived about 2 1/2 p.m. at Pavlitza. The road for the last hour had been so bad that we had to of the time a foot. Pavlitza lies on the site of of the ancient go part part Phigalia, we (21v.) and saw considerable remains of the old fortifications. The work was about at some like that Samikon. After eating bread and Chicago beef in the wretched house which was to serve us for the we started with a for the night, guide temple of Bassae. It was 3.15 when we started, and 8.25 when we returned to Pavlitza. I we must have 1/2 an hour at the The from suppose stayed temple. path Pavlitza (22r.) to Bassae is frightfully steep and stony.The temple itself is very beautiful, and all are the exterior columns but 3 still standing with the beams of the epistyle. The temple is of fine hard limestone. The capitals are finely drawn, and the columns are very beautiful. Part of all the semi-columns or antae which divided the celia into niches is still in place. The temple stands very high, commanding a view to the sea to west both the and South East. On the way back the moon came out, so we (22v.) reached Pavlitza without mishap. We had a dinner of rice and chicken served on 6i6 PRISCILLA M. MURRAY AND CURTIS N. RUNNELS

a table about 6 inches of sat on or on high. We, course, the floor, rather blankets. After dinner we had our thin mattresses on the and went to very spread floor bed. room one In the with us (for the house had but room) slept 3 men, two children, and two women.

Expenses Quarters in Kakobato 3.33 Soup in Bouzi 0.75 Guide to Bassai 0.92 Total 5.00 Last total 61.80 Total for trip to date 66.80

Thursday April 19th (23r.) I was awakened once last a or cat across With night by dog running my legs. that exception I slept straight thro' tillmorning. About six o'clock, we got up, but didn't leave the until 7 a ancient coins were us to one village 1/2 for lot of bro't buy, and old fellow had a fine old bronze goat for which he wanted 50 francs. Schneider some we man to bought coins but the goat couldn't afford. An old undertook show us the but we lost our and on mountains. way, certainly way wandered about the (23v.) The path was so bad that we often had to get off our horses and walk. In crossing the Neda my horse fell and I got a little wet. At last, after riding and walking five and 1/2 hours we reached Vlaka about 1 p.m. Then we could to eat get nothing but bread, so we finished our can of beef, and drank a lot of wine. Pavlitza is the only place as yet where we have not been able to get coffee. At Vlaka we didn't (24r.) try.My left stirrup has a spur attached [sketch] and I carry a stick, so when the road is level and [sic]we can even trot a little.We tried it after leaving Vlaka, and lost our our us. We lose much tho.' way after leaving guides behind didn't time, When we had ridden a of hours thro' an it to couple uninteresting region began and rained hard until about 6 p.m. when we reached this rain, quite large village of Melighala. Here we went to the khan and left our horses and baggage. Then (24v.) we went to the caf? and drank some coffee. The caf? was full of men all of whom were in our of the us a much interested dinner. The keeper khan couldn't make as was no meat no in At we some soup there and butter the place. last ordered ham Meanwhile our was worn which is and eggs. guides arrived. Theodoraki quite out, not at all to be wondered at.About 7 1/2 o'clock we returned to the khan and ate (25r.) our some we some ham and eggs cooked in remarkable way, and then had boiled eggs. Then Wheeler &c Schneider drank some goat's milk. About 8 1/2 o'clock Iwent to the caf? and had some coffee ?c Xouyo?jxi [Turkish delight] and wrote This is near the foot of Mt. Ithome. are some of my journal. village The people them citified. quite Expenses Night at Pavlitza 3.33 Wine ?c bread atTavla [Vlaka] .55 Total 3.88 Last total 66.80 Total for trip to date 70.70

Friday April 20th (25v.) was a 6 we this We were awakened a It little after when got up morning. by great room to came in noise in the overhead and couldn't go sleep again. Our landlady us dress. She watched us undress last and when Schneider and watched night, lay we were we some down she covered him up. When dressed had milk bro't and ate bread and milk with three spoons from one dish. After our bread 6c milk we went (26r.) HAROLD NORTH FOWLER AND STUDY TOURS IN GREECE 617

to the caf? and had some coffee. About 7 3/4 o'clock we rode off. We crossed the Pamisos over a ancient stone Curtius The Pamisos is a great bridge (v. Pelop. II). considerable stream and swift. After about two hours hill the very riding up along a we we side of mountain (Ena) [Eva?] reached the monastery of Vourkano. There ate some fried and started to see Ithome the very good eggs, and city of Messene. (26v.) We walked an hour or so up a steep zig-zag path to the top of Ithome where is now a There we found a some From deserted monastery. goat-herd and children. this old monastery we had a fine view of the walls of Messene and the plains of Messenia. Instead of going down the path we clambered down the steep hillside to the of the old wall. First we came to a ruined best-preserved part bit of wall, and then to a tower. The wall is built of two of stones parallel face-walls huge (27r.) which were probably filled in with rubble. The tower is about 35 ft. high, and some ft. It has two 20 square. doors opening upon the top of the wall, and four windows beside two small windows toward the outside [sketch]. The gable ends are toward the inside and the outside. The places for the beams to make the 2nd are to on eaves were are story be seen, and the top stones the sides where the cut (27v.) thus [sketch]. In the sort of groove thus formed the side beams of the roof were probably laid.The gable-ends at the top are about like this [sketch]. The purpose of the notch in the top of the gable I don't know. The slope of the roof is very flat. The wall is built of large squared stones, some of which are asmuch as 2 yds. long. From this first tower we followed the wall past another tower just like the first but more or (28r.) ruinous to the "dipylon" double gate towardMegalopolis [sketch]. A plan of this is in gate given Curtius' "Peloponnesos." Just inside the gate part of the ancient is A block half across pavement preserved. huge-lintel lies the inner gate. at are In the circular enclosure the spots marked two niches for tablets. One tablet is but the is effaced the numerous modern preserved, inscription by inscriptions scratched over it. From this we went to the of (28v.) gate village Mavromati which lies inside the old Here we some wine in a wretched little or city. got "Magazi" [shop store]. I also bought some coins for 1 1/2 franc.We went into the local museum, where are some reliefs and and some of statues. uninteresting inscriptions, fragments There I a the museum bought pamphlet by schoolmaster about Messene. From the we went with an man as to see as old guide the ruins which Bursian's map marks &?. We found a lot of more than are in the (29r.) Theater, temple, foundations?many couldn't tell which was which. In order to see we over a map?but them trampled deal of which went our consciences tho' our good grain, sorely against guide didn't seem to care. It was to hard walking and very hot. On the way back the monastery we some (29v.) passed foundations which I called the temple of Artemis Limnatis. Imay have been if isn't we wrong, but that the temple, couldn't find it. The foundations in are crosses question just where the path the old wall. We reached the cloister about and us some coffee and a sweetmeat or 5.30, they gave [candied preserved fruit] of melon-rind and almonds which was very good. They had given us the same when we arrived in the The was morning. sub-prior (the prior absent) showed us some (30r.) good silver coins but we bought none. About 6 1/2 our dinner was ready. We had some TunXacprior rice boiled with a chicken and some coffee. After dinner we talked and wrote a while, then went to bed.

Expenses Coffee last night &, taruyouura .30 Quarters inMeligala [Melighala] 3.33 Guide .37Wine & tobacco .15 .52 Coins 1.65 Book 1.10 2.75 Total 6.90 Last total 70.70 Total for trip to date 77.60 6i8 PRISCILLA M. MURRAY AND CURTIS N. RUNNELS

Saturday April 21st (3 Ov. ) We, or I at least, slept well last night. About 5 1/2 a.m. the young monk who on us to see we were we we a waited looked in if up. So got up. Here had wash basin for the first time since we left Olympia. When we were dressed they bro't us sweetmeats and we were to start but it to rain coffee. Then ready began very hard, so we waited. We have given up our plan of going to Pylos, for itwould (31r.) two at we are all in a We mean now to from here to take days, least, and hurry. go Kalamae and thence to We had breakfast of fried at and Sparta. eggs Vburkano, as it didn't rain, left then at 8 o'clock. First we went into the church which is new also 6 silver coins of the After we had and uninteresting. We bought sub-prior. an it to but we it soon so we ridden about 1/2 hour began rain, tho't would stop (31v.) on. road was at first an but an kept Our ordinary Greek bridle-path, after hour or so we came to a road. Here we our rode on at carriage left guides behind, and a is to our horses. We this jog trot, which the fastest gait known kept up almost without a break for 2 hours. Then we came to a but nearly Nisi, very large village, more we at a didn't stop. Two hours rode on, mostly jog trot, and reached Kalamae or Kalamata about 1 p.m. as we entered the town a tremendous of rain Just gush (32r.) so we into inn we saw?the went came, turned the first Thessalia. We upstairs and 6c I went to bed. Schneider went and to eat Wheeler straight got something first, and I had some and cutlets in bed. Our room and presently Wheeler macaroni is and the some time we a man to come with a filthy food wasn't good. After got brazier of coals, and we dried our clothes. At 4 p.m. Iwas dressed once more all but (32v.) our my shoes. The others didn't get dressed until about 5. In connection with hotel is a caf? chantant which has been in full blast all the afternoon. About 5 1/2 p.m. I went out tho' it was a and mailed some Schneider and raining little, postal a of to his tried to on a cards 6c and letter W's wife. We call "guest-friend" of S's but couldn't find him. At the Ae?^n [sic] or chief caf? where we had some we met the two for Mr. Goodwin. coffee Demarch [mayor] who had telegrams About 6 1/2 we came back to our hotel and had dinner?rcntaxcpri with lamb, (33r.) roast we in our room a little but the music lamb 6c oranges. Then stayed while, in the next room drove us to the caf?. We came back soon and about 9 p.m. went to bed.

Expenses Lodging 6cc at Vourkano 5.00 Coins 2 Tip to monk 1 Coffee .20 3.20 Coffee 6c tobacco .15Drinks .20 .35 Total 8.55 Last total 77.60 Total for trip to date 86.15

Sunday April 22nd We got up about 5 o'clock, and after dressing we hunted up our guides, and got (33v.) some soon to coffee, and about 6 1/2 left Kalamata. The road very began go up a us beautiful hill, and entered gorge, where itwound about the steep ascent, giving views 6c glimpses of theMessenian plain and the Gulf of Korone. A considerable we stream?the Nedon?flows at the bottom of the gorge. About 10 1/2 o'clock the of Lath? Here as we were a corner we met a reached village (Aocoa). turning servant. lot of pack-horses upon one of which satVasilis (Baciln?) Mr. Goodwin's (34r.) met a man who us Mr. Goodwin's was in the We had already told party pass?now we knew that they were in Lath?. We dismounted and hurried thro' the village son to the khan. There we found Prof. Greenough with his wife 6c Robby, and were Miss Gibbins. Iwas glad to see them, but sorry the rest not there. They had to see We to the a and ate gone up the road the view. talked Greenoughs while, so as to a light lunch (of 5 eggs each), and left. I dismounted soon, and walked (34v.) HAROLD NORTH FOWLER AND STUDY TOURS IN GREECE 619

sooner. I saw Mrs. Goodwin meet the Goodwins Presently Professor Thayer and came around a corner. I called to them and hurried to meet them. We talked a rode and soon Mr. Goodwin and Charlie. little while, when Ezra Thayer up, after was to see and I think were we couldn't in I glad them all, they really sorry keep as were their company. They all looked well and if they enjoying their trip.We a few and rode on. Our ascended the only talked minutes, way very steadily up (35r.) pass. The air grew cold, and the clouds lay about and below us. At the head of the pass is a little rude church oP?yio? "H?ua? [sic].After passing this point our road a narrow a stream at the bottom. descended into gorge with small Our guides called it Langatha (Aayya?a). For a while the path zig-zagged along the slope; then descended to the bed of the stream. The gorge is very wild and beautiful, narrow. is and we walked a deal after we had and very The path very rough, good our walked along the bed of the stream some distance, path went up the left side of now (35v.) the gorge. It had been cloudy before, but we were in the midst of the clouds. Twice the road descended to the bed of the stream and rose high up the slope. At were times we could not see the bottom of the gorge, and sometimes the clouds was so thick we couldn't see across the narrow pass. The effect indescribable. In the were Once as we came down out the midst of the cloud nightingales singing. of the clouds we noticed that there was no water in the river-bed, but a mile or two the stream About 5 1/2 p.m. we reached the (36r.) further down appeared again. we a village of Tp?7ir| (Tripi). Even before that had had view of the valley of the us was Eurotas?its rich green hills lighted by bright sunshine, while all around a one low a From we continued under cloud. On of the hills rainbow rested. Tripi our with mud caused a severe storm of rain which we descent by roads heavy by came on had escaped by being above it.As we descended to the valley evening we rode with fruit the shadows. and past orange-orchards fragrant among falling we the moon rose. We went to a hotel and ordered Before reached Sparta directly to have our in the room as the (36v.) dinner. We made arrangements beds spread dining most and Our dinner was We were thro' when cleanly airy place. pretty good. just I saw the come in. He asked all about us and told us of a man Angelo dragoman here who German. Then we went to the caf? and until 9 1/2 when speaks stayed we came back and went to bed. I find I have slight cold from my ride to Kalamata. Kalamata has 13,000 inhabitants, Sparta at most 10,000 but the Spartan hotel is better than the one at Kalamata. Ex Bill at Kalamae [Kalamata] 6.10 Lunch .75 6.85 Wine on the way .20 Boots blacked .10 Coffee ?c tobacco .15 .45 Total 7.30 Last Total 86.15 Total for trip to date 93.45

(37r.) Monday April 23rd When we got up (about 6 1/2) itwas fine weather. We had our coffee and read a little while. Then about 8 we called on AOocvaoioc,M?xaac (Athanasios Matsas) the head of the Gymnasium and director of the museum. He speaks German and was He us and then took us to a little very polite. gave orangeade coffee, orange cover a mo garden with a sort of summer house in itwhich was built to fine old (37v.) saic representing Europa and the bull. The mosaic and all are the property of the Thence we went to the museum wh. Matsas for us. archaeological society. opened museum a are a ancient and The is nice stuccoed building. There few good reliefs, a lot of uninteresting inscriptions Sic.When we left the museum Matsas went off to his school, and we went with his servant to see the theatre, which lies some 1/2 amile north of the present town. Only a little of the foundation walls of theatre is 620 PRISCILLA M. MURRAY AND CURTIS N. RUNNELS

The or cavea is a in hill. left. koiXov only circular depression the Near the theatre are some fortification remains of a we were at old walls, and slight temple. While the theatre it began to rain, but we wanted to go to the Eurotas and started in that (38r.) we direction. The rain grew too hard, tho,' and turned back and went into a little house to Then Matsas' servant left us. the rain guard keep dry. Presently stopped, we went saw the Eurotas?a stream in a broad and down and small, muddy, bed. The Eurotas is, I think, smaller than the Alpheios. We returned about 11 to our hotel and lunched. After lunch we went to a caf?. It was clear weather so we tho't

we and I hunted our came to the might go on, up guides. Georgios, however, caf? and evidently didn't care towalk much in the mud. A lot of Greeks gathered about (38v.) and after a and to me talk we decided to in us, long very disagreeable stay Sparta over night, and then make a long day of it to Leondari. Thereupon I decided to walk to The others wouldn't so I went alone. I found the to the Amyklae. go, way church ('?yia Kt)piaKr|) which marks the spot, and walk [sic] all around the low hill was the I could find no but there are remains of where acropolis. walls, slight a temple (?). Iwalked back to Sparta with aGreek who said he had some coins to sell. He took me to an where I saw the coins?one of apothecary's Vips. Agrippa [Vipsanius Agrippa] and one old Spanish one. Then Iwent to the hotel andwrote awhile, butW. came and told me S.was in a caf? so Iwent there and sat.My walk (39r.) toAmyklae 6c back took me about 1 1/2 hours, and Iwalked slowly. In the a.m. and I some silk and sashes made here from native silk. In W. bought pretty garters von the caf? I read Bursian's Geographie Griechenland and Curtius' Peloponnes [sic] for some then we went to walk. As we were back a man us time; coming stopped and led us into his door-yard where, about 3 ft. below the ground, he had found a It was not a set of medallions and large mosaic. very handsome, being only geo metrical patterns. A house had evidently been built over it, the foundations of (39v.) as as we saw stones which were, far them, marble with late Greek inscriptions. We some and S. the wh. were of Roman times stayed there time, copied inscriptions and The Greek who had found the mosaic was at a very fragmentary. poor quite loss whether to on his and his or not. go with plans spoil find, We, unfortunately no returned to and 7 dinner. Then we could give advice. We the hotel, about had loafed about until bed-time. Ex Guide .35 Coffee 6cc .30 .65 Silk garters 5.35 Sash 4.00 Mastich .20 9.55 Total 10.20 Last total 93.45 Total for trip to date 103.65

Tuesday April 24th (40r.) were a and I didn't much We wakened about midnight by great knocking, sleep a.m. we our us after that. At 4 got up and dressed, and landlord bro't coffee, milk, and lamb chops.When we asked for our bill he presented one of 80 francs.We talked some time with him, and finally paid him 40 fr.We parted the best of was was an friends, and rode off at 5.10. The sun not up, and there uncomfort warm. ably cold north wind so that I soon dismounted and walked to keep Just (40v.) before the sun to the of white with appeared us, peaks Taygetus, newly-fallen were a beautiful color. Our road the but for snow, tinged with rosy lay up Eurotas, some time a line of low hills separated us from the river.About 8 1/2 we crossed a of the and some 15 minutes to let the considerable tributary Eurotas, stopped horses graze. About 10 we reached the Kalyvia Georgitsana, and had a lunch of boiled eggs and bread. On a hill close by this khan are remains of a Venetian (?) (41r.) fort and they told us that they found ancient Greek coins 6cc in the neighborhood. HAROLD NORTH FOWLER AND STUDY TOURS IN GREECE 621

a coins. At 11 1/4 we on. The S. bought couple of poor rode valley grew narrower, one and the hills apparently lower.We passed small village, stopping at the khan, and one or two other khans where we had some wine. About 4 o'clock we reached the lovely khan of Lath? (Aoc?dc)on the top of a clayey, low hill. Just beyond this (41v.) khan we had our first view of the plain ofMegalopolis. The plain is larger than I and to be flat near the as we advanced. The soil of had supposed, proved very city all this part of the country is very moist and clayey. Soon after leaving the khan we a turn on one took wrong and passed thro' the hamlet of Kiose which lies of the low hills which enclose the on the side toward From Kiose we plain Sparta. went down into the and thro' a small arrived plain passing Rousounaga, village, a (42r.) about 7 p.m. at Sinano, large village almost on the site ofMegalopolis. Here we went to the so-called hotel and ordered for dinner soup and eggs which were all we we were we were invited to some coins could get. While waiting buy ancient at exorbitant prices, but did not buy any.We were all pretty tired aswe had been on out to so we ate 14 hours the way. Our rice soup turned be merely boiled rice were wine was were no it with sugar. Our eggs badly fried, and the horrid. There beds but they spread a lot of rugs on the floor.We went to bed early. Ex Hotel in Sparta 13.35Wine 6cc .30 13.65 Last total 103.65 Total for trip to date 117.30

(42v.) Wednesday April 25th We got up at 6 and drank our (poor) coffee. Then, with a very stupid boy as guide, we went to see the ruins of The was the in Megalopolis. theatre largest Greece. Now only a little of the side walls is left, but the semi-circular depression in the hill shows the size of the theatre. The theatre is near the left bank of the Helisson, the stream. Across the stream from the are numerous ruins facing theatre which are to be the remains of the market and of several (43r.) supposed great place temples (v. in Curtius' Near the theatre are remains of the stadion. plan Peloponnes [sic]). slight across nor as was We didn't go the Helisson to the stadion, the grass very wet and the ruins are not instructive. From the of the we had a view of top theatre good the site the ancient of the in to we of city and plain general. Returning the "hotel" (43v.) had some boiled rice and some halva [sweet made of sesame seeds or farina, nuts, and at 9 o'clock we left for Our a chauss?e honey], then, Tripolitza. way lay along which passes thro' a rather high pass out of the plain ofMegalopolis. From the we a pass had last good view of the plain. On the way to Tripolitza we passed thro' two small 10 in a in plains about miles circumference each with little lake it, which lakes had apparently no outlets. The day was very hot and the landscape barren and In the were fertile and men (44r.) very uninteresting. plains fields, ploughing them with very small cattle and classically simple ploughs. About 2/3 of the way to we an ancient wall on a hill to our Tripolitza passed left (the ancient Asea). We at 3 on our at stopped khans way, and found the wine rather better than Sinano. We reached a little before 4 p.m. went to a Tripolitza and hotel, which looked quite clean. Here we and our we went (44v.) paid dismissed guides with their beasts. Then to an dined we went to a eating house and fairly well. After dinner caf? where I smoked a narghil? [water pipe or "hubble bubble"] for the first time. I didn't like we a it very well. Then started for walk and I got some salve (Ung. Spermaceti) [sperm whale oil extract] for my very much chapped lips. The apothecary made me Italian. We walked about the town for some time. There are some speak only (45r.) 10,000 inhabitants but there ismore life here than in any Greek town I have seen. We were all with the After our walk we went to a quite pleased place. caf? where we until we were to to stayed ready go home bed. 622 PRISCILLA M. MURRAY AND CURTIS N. RUNNELS

Ex

Quarters at Si?ano 2.15 on Wine ?cc the way .40 Coffee and nargil? .30 Ung. Spermaceti .50 Guide 6c horses for nine days 90.00 Dinner 2.10 Total 95.45 Last total 117.30 Total for trip to date 212.75

Thursday April 26th We about and the time we were man was got up five, by ready for him, the there with a carriage to take us toMantineia. The carriage was a tumble-down old (45v.) an extra was to the rear we thing, and horse tied axle. However, made very fair time.We left the hotel about 6 1/4 and were back again by 10 1/2. The ruins of Mantineia lie about 7 miles north near the of ofTripolitza base the mountains which enclose the plain to the north. A good deal of the wall is preserved, but not to any great height. It was probably a brick wall with stone foundations, (46r.) stone corner town an and only the has remained. Near the S.E. of the old is are interesting gate [sketch, Fig. 8, bottom]. The points of the compass about as I we saw remnants have given them. Besides the walls the of the theatre, which was very small, and not built by digging out a hill, but by heaping up a hill. Only the rounded hill and very little of the end walls remain. It faces (46v.) the East. Just back of the theatre are the foundations of a temple. We didn't saw one go all the way round the walls, but the best part of them, and gate [illegible] the one with the two towers. On the way back we with our carriage ran into a with a man on him. and man tumbled donkey Donkey headlong, but neither was hurt. When we back to we went to lunch after got Tripolitza which we went to a Then we hunted about for a to take us to caf?. carriage (47r.) and at last succeeded in the same man who took us Argos tomorrow, getting to Mantineia and is to take us this p.m. to 1.15 we left for Tegea. About Tegea. The site of the old town is occupied by a number of villages, [at] the furthest a museum some of which, Piali, is little with rather uninteresting fragmentary most is a lion in low relief. We saw the where relics. The interesting place the Germans excavated a temple, but the excavation was filled up. Piali lies (47v.) some 5 miles from Tripolitza toward the south. About amile north of Piali is a ruined which on of the ancient Byzantine church (Palaea-Episcopi) stands part theatre. theatre like the one at was built not out. The This Mantineia, up, dug area must have been There were several small hills in of Tegea very large. it, the highest of which is now crowned by a village called '?yio? Ec?Ginc (Agios Sostes). This is supposed to have been the acropolis, tho' no walls have been (48r.) found. The building ofTripolitza so near old Tegea possibly accounts for the absence of ruins. Tegea andMantineia lay about 8 or 9 miles apart in a straight line North 6c South. Tripolitza lies between them, but more to the west, and nearer Tegea thanMantineia. We returned to Tripolitza about 4 3/4 and went as to our eating-house for dinner. We went first to another eating house, but (48v.) new could offer us no meat on account of week the place holy (next Sunday is we went to our old After dinner we went to a caf? the Greek Easter) place. for a little while, then went to our hotel. The name of the hotel is Sevo?o%?U)v f| netamovvnooc and the landlord is NikoXoco? Aocpl?ac. It is a very nice hotel a one for Greek in the country. FOWLER AND IN HAROLD NORTH STUDY TOURS GREECE 623

Ex. Meals 2.75 Coffee .20 2.95 Lougoumi .30Wine .10Oranges .60 1.00 Tips to boys .20 Simple [illegible] .30 .50 Total 4.45 Last total 212.75 Total for trip to date 217.20

(49r. ) Friday April 2 7th Once more we a little after and at 6 we drove from the got up 5, punctually away It was a fine a Hotel Peloponnesos. very sunny morning. The road, good chauss?e, crossed the plain in a S.E.erly direction, and began to ascend the hills. We had 3 horses?two hitched up in the regular way, the third running alongside with no and We drove at a smart trot it a reins, drawing by ropes. when wasn't gallop. About 7 1/2 o'clock we reached the top of the pass, and our 3rd horse was tied on (49v.) behind. Then itwas down hill for an hour. At 8 1/2 our driver stopped towater his and to a told us it was we must wait an horses, pointing khan, halfway, and hour. We accordingly walked up to the khan, and ordered some eggs boiled soft, which, to our were in a and were We had great surprise, ready very few minutes, really soft. not succeeded in we getting any soft-boiled eggs before since left Athens, for the Greeks in the country put the eggs into cold water and boil them by guess, which (50r.) invariably turns them out pretty hard. The scenery between the plain of Tripolitza and this khan is not the mountains and the views halfway beautiful, being barren, limited. A little after 9 1/2 we left the khan, and drove down hill a little way, then up hill for an hour to the top of the second half of the pass. Then we went down a road to the The view from the road was fine. very zig-zag plain. very Mykenae and Argos were out of sight, hidden behind the foot-hills of the mountains, but Nauplia, and most of theArgive plain aswell as the blue quiet bay,were in full view. (50v.) We passed thro' Lerna (xo?? M?Xouc) and reached Argos about 12 1/2 o'clock. Then at the Sevo?oxe?ov tcov E?vcov [sic] (H?tel des Etrangers) we ate an omelette and went to see the theatre. We were escorted 21 small and 3 small by boys girls. The were and we some ears. boys obstreperous disagreeable and boxed of their We saw an ancient relief on a of another relief piece Cyclopean wall, and hunted for we to town we some which couldn't find. Returning the drank coffee and drove to where we arrived about 4 to no steamer (51r.) Nauplia, o'clock only learn that left for Athens on I am afraid there have been like Saturday. may something profanity in and German. we went to our old hotel and took English However, Mykenae rooms for the After dinner we walked out and saw night. ordering the dying lion (a very poor imitation of the lion of Luzern) which Ludwig I of Bavaria had carved inmemory of the officers ?c soldiers of the Bavarian Brigade who fell in 1833-4. On our way back we ran across a little soldier we had met here at Xmas time, and he took us into a church where were an in a sort of coffin of they kissing image flowers, and buying flowers wh. were blessed by a priest. This is the Greek Good are (51v.) Friday, 8c everywhere people buying &c selling sheep ?c lambs for the great feast of Easter. After dinner we made an to a to attempt get carriage Corinth but had to give it up. A Greek who speaks German called on us, ?c Schneider and I went with him to the churches and saw the sights. The churches were full of all with who seemed not but more a people candles, very reverential, having good time. About 10 o'clock they left the churches and marched about the streets. The coffin-like [cassone?] with the image or picture in itwas carried in the procession a on with lot of candles top of it. Each church (five in all) had such a procession. a Our church had military band playing a dirge, and the "coffin" had an escort 624 PRISCILLA M. MURRAY AND CURTIS N. RUNNELS

of soldiers with reversed arms in several cases. Crowds of children ran about shout ing K?pie ?^EiGov.Red and blue lights were burned on the balconies, and from one such light something fell on my hat and burned a hole in the brim. On the whole, the sight was worth seeing. A little before 11 we went to our hotel and to bed. Ex.?

to Mantineia 10. Carriage ?cTegea Lodging 3.70 13.70 Khan .55 Carriage toArgos 11.70 12.25 Omelette .90 Carriage to Nauplia 1.70 2.60 Coffee .20 .20 Total 28.75 Last total 217.20 Total for trip to date 245.95

Saturday April 28th (52r.) We got up late.About 9 1/2W. and Iwent out.W. telegraphed to his wife, and we some and The streets are and firework bought paper pens. crowded, squibs [a something like a Roman candle today] ?c fire crackers are frequent. Until noon I wrote letters and also after lunch until 4 p.m. Then S. and I went with the land lord's son to see some ancient tombs. are hewn are They from the rock, but of very rough workmanship. They are in the hill of the Palamidi in a gorge on the side toward the German lion. we treated our to Dinner Returning guide coffee. was a little late. After dinner we all went to and who has sleep, W., been unwell all day, did not get up again, but about 11 o'clock S. and Iwent with our landlord to the church. There we stood and listened for some time. Then a door in the middle of the reredos opened and the archbishop in gorgeous robes with lighted candles in his hands appeared. The people thronged about him and lighted their tapers from those he held. Presently all left the church, and the archbishop with some 8 or 10 other priests mounted a little railed platform in front of the church. There the bishop read (or chanted) the gospel about the resurrection.While he fireworks were set off from one or two of chanted, the neighboring houses. Just (52v.) at 12 m [sic] by my watch, the bishop came to the words Xpiaxo? ?v?oir). Then a couple of small cannon were touched off, and amilitary band struck up a very lively air. The some time then the a chanting continued longer, priests and good many of the others re-entered the church. Outside, fireworks of various kinds were set and of were in off, squibs considerable size thrown into the crowd. We stood the of the but the followed us there was some portico church, squibs there, and lively to clear of them. Two Frenchmen whom we saw at are scrambling keep Olympia now at our and were in the crowd at the church. I to one staying hotel, spoke of (53r.) and we came to a.m. them, all the hotel together about 12 1/2 Expenses Stationary [sic] .50 Cake & coffee 1.00 1.50 Last total 245.95 Total for trip to date 247.45

Sunday April 29th We In we walked about a and I wrote In got up late. the morning little, letters. the some we a see afternoon I wrote more, and about 3 went out to suburb to Judas or an hour or and it Then Iwrote some hanged burned. We waited more, gave up. more, and we went and got our tickets for Peiraeus.We engaged a boatman for the (53v.) steamer at 9 1/2 and went to dinner. After dinner we went to a confectioner's and to we met an whom we had seen in then the caf? chantant. There officer already HAROLD NORTH FOWLER AND STUDY TOURS IN GREECE 625

the afternoon and whom we had met when we were in at Nauplia Christmastime. sat We and drank Greek beer with him until 10 1/2 o'clock. The music was by a of 13 Bohemian and was not troupe Germans, bad. They played and sang alter nately. The songs were "Das Romanze [?]Das Kleine Postilion tkc. At 10 1/2 we our (54r.) tried to go aboard steamer, but it blew so we could not find a boatman, so we returned to the hotel and went to bed.

Exp. Ticket toAthens 6.10 Bill inNauplia 19.95 Confectioner 1.10 and Caf? 1.00 2.10 Total 38.15 Last total 247.45 Total for trip to date 285.60

Monday April 30th We got up at 5 and went aboard the ship (EXniq) wh. however didn't start until (54v.) nearly 7.1 wrote for a couple of hours, and waited for breakfast, wh. came at 10, was and good. After breakfast I talked with my young Frenchman, and slept for a couple of hours. At 5 1/2 p.m. we reached the Peiraeus. At 6 3/4 Iwas in my room. After I went to went dressing dinner, and then for my letters to the school. Iwent to see a Then Mrs. Wheeler for few minutes, after wh. I came to my room and read and wrote letters. Ex. Boat inNauplia 1.00 Lunch 2.70 3.70 Coffee .20 Boat in Peiraeus .70 .90 Total 4.60 Last total 285.60 Total for entire trip 290.20

(55r.) TuesdayMay 1st In the morning I sent off letters toHarry C.Jones, May Thurston, Clara Price 6c Sophia Brewster, H. C. G. Brandt, Mrs. Riggs, Prof. C. Mayhoff, and the "dear ones at home." I had to some more buy stationery before I could write any than the letters I had begun inNauplia. Iwent to seeMrs. Schuyler to ask the where abouts of the but was not at Goodwins, Mrs. Schuyler home. After lunch I went to (55v.) the school and read the Archaeologische Zeitung for awhile, then went to the Wheelers.' After there an hour or so I came to staying my room, and then went to see a Dr. D?rpfeld and gave him book wh. Signor Cavallari sent him by me from Selinunto. Then I walked home xov by way of the TlXax?a XuvT?yjiaxoc where the band was Until dinner time I read the mamma playing. April "Century" wh. had sent me. After dinner I went to the Wheelers' for a few minutes and then we all went to a at (56r.) social gathering the Kalopothakis.' A lot of people from Roberts at were [sic] College Constantinople there, and also Prof. Wm Maison of Boston who came as far as in with Professor the Italy company Thayer. At Kalopothakis' I learned that the to near Goodwin party expect be in Itea Delphi Thursday after noon. I left the and came home. came Kalopothakis' early, Baumgarten and talked (56v.) until 11 1/2 after wh. Iwrote a little on the Erechtheion and went to bed. I now mean to to on go Delphi Friday the chance of overtaking the Goodwins. 626 PRISCILLA M. MURRAY AND CURTIS N. RUNNELS

REFERENCES

K. 1889. Greece: Handbook ed. M. the Baedeker, for Gorham Phillips Stevens, J. of Aegean Sea, Albania, Thessaly, and 4th London. Travellers, Leipzig. Paton, Cambridge, Mass., pp. 232 Macedonia, ed., -. 1894. Greece: Handbook -. 1884. Handbook Travellers for 276. for -. "The First Year of the in the Ionian Travellers, Leipzig. 1947. Greece, Including Islands, H. M. Modern Greece: A at Continental the Baird, 1856. School Athens," Appendix I in Greece, P?loponn?se, Narrative a Residence and Travels the Islands the of Lord 1947, pp. 273-277. of Aegean Sea, Crete, in with Observations H. and R. Wheeler. 1909. and That Country, Fowler, N., J. Albania, Thessaly, Macedonia, on Its Lan A Handbook Greek and a Detailed Antiquities, Literature, of Archaeology, Description ofAthens, and New New York. Ancient and Classical and guage, Politics, Religion, Modern, York. W. 1823. Narrative a in 5th London. Gell, of Journey Mediaeval, ed., trans. Bodnar, E. W., ed. and 2003. theMorea, London. Sanborn, A. 1956. "Necrology: Harold Later Travels: 1885. "The Battle North 285. Cyrtac ofAncona, Goodwin, W. W. Fowler," AJA 60, p. Mass. American E. 1887. An Easter Vacation Cambridge, of Salamis," Papers of the Sandys, J. F 1976. Mediterranean Studies at 1 in Lists Books on Greek Braudel, The School of Classical Athens Greece, with of in Travel and and Time and theMediterranean World the (1882-1883), pp. 237-262. Topography, York. C. 1987. The Grand Tables Greek Steamers and Rail Age ofPhilip II, New Hibbert, Tour, of C. 1862-1872. von London. London. Bursian, Geographie ways, A. 1993. The Griechenland, Leipzig. Jenkins, R. J.H. 1961. TheDilessi Schnapp, Discovery of E. 1851-1852. London. the Past: The Curtius, Peloponnesos: Murders, Origins ofArchaeology, Eine Be S. A. 1957. Hellas Observed: London. historisch-geographische Larrabee, der Gotha. American T. D. 1902. The First schreibung Halbinsel, The Experience of Greece, Seymour, Twenty Marbles to New York. Years the American School Clas Dyson, S. 1998. Ancient 1775-1865, of of L. E. 1947'. A sical Studies at Athens of American Shores: Classical Archae Lord, History of the (Bulletin in United Philadel American School Classical Studies the School of Classical Studies at ology the States, of at 1882-1942: An Inter Athens Mass. phia. Athens, 5), Norwood, Travelers to an 1678. de Dalma Eisner, R. 1991. Antique collegiate Project, Cambridge, Spon,J. Voyage d'Italie, Land: and Literature Mass. de et du The History of tie, Gr?ce, Levant, Lyon. H. 1979. Grand Travel to Greece, Ann Arbor. McNeal, R. A., ed. 1993. Nicholas Tregaskis, Beyond the Tourism in Biddle in and Tour: The Levant London. Feifer, M. 1985. History Greece: The Journals Lunatics, Rome to the Letters R. 1969. The Renaissance Discov from Imperial Present, of 1806, University Park, Weiss, Classical Oxford. New York. Penn. ery of Antiquity, Erechtheion A Hand-Book Trav C. 2002. "The American Fowler, H. N. 1885. "The Murray, J. 1845. for Winterer, at the American ellers in the Ionian School of Classical Studies at Athens," Papers of Islands, Greece, Classical Studies at Athens 1 Asia and Constan Athens: and Cul School of Turkey, Minor, Scholarship High A New 2nd ture in the Gilded in Excavat (1882-1883), pp. 213-236. tinople: Edition, ed., Age," -. A London. Our Past: on the His 1916. History of Sculpture, ing Perspectives -. Handbook Travel the Institute New York. 1872. for tory of Archaeological of -. lers in Ionian ?d. S. H. 1927. "The Sculptures of the Greece, Describing the America, Allen, Boston, Erechtheum," in The Erechtheum, Islands, Continental Greece, Athens, pp. 93-104. and Restored and the Islands Measured, Drawn, by the Peloponnesus,

Priscilla M. Curtis N. Runnels Murray

Boston University Boston University

department of archaeology department of archaeology

commonwealth avenue commonwealth avenue 675 675 massachusetts boston, massachusetts 022i5 boston, o2215

[email protected] [email protected]