Either Hugo, Or I Go

WIN Drink to a beer’s long life NE of Australia’s most famous brands has had a major Mac’s, New Zealand’s original craft makeover. Not only has it given beer, turns 30 this month, and Oits label a bit of nip-and-tuck and wants everyone to join in as it indulged in an expensive set of celebrates. extensions; it’s also visited the local Production of council chambers, filled out the forms Mac’s began in and instigated a name change. a small First launched in 1980 and designed to microbrewery age for a decade or more, St Hugo was in Nelson in until 2008 always made from cabernet 1981 and, since sauvignon sourced from a multitude of then, the brand vineyards in South Australia’s famous has gone from Coonawarra terra rossa soils. strength to Not content with being known solely strength. It as a world-class Coonawarra cabernet now boasts an sauvignon, the St Hugo brand has extended recently been extended to include two family of wines from the Barossa, a shiraz and a naturally GSM ( grenache, shiraz and mataro) brewed beers, blend. ciders and non-alcoholic drinks, The ‘‘Orlando’’ moniker on the iconic each with its own personality and label has also been subtly sidelined and taste. replaced with ‘‘Jacob’s Creek’’. The In October 2006, Wellington’s Jacob’s Creek brand needs no Shed 22 brewpub, The Brewery Bar introduction but some may not know that and Restaurant, was refurbished to those wines are made by Orlando Wines, become the first Mac’s Brewbar. a company founded by Johann Gramp Since then, others have opened in after he planted his first vines on the Auckland, Wellington and banks of Jacob’s Creek in 1847. St Hugo is Christchurch. Though Mac’s well- part of the premium Jacob’s Creek range earned heritage helped it become a and is named after Johann’s grandson well-known NZ brand, it’s always Hugo Gramp who became a key figure at been about fun, quirkiness and not Orlando Wines. taking itself too seriously. During a tasting of 14 past vintages of Celebrations will include food and St Hugo cabernet at the historic Orlando drink specials at Brewbars, Mac’s winery recently, group fortified and red giveaways, and a special summer winemaker Sam Kurtz explained that beer. And don’t forget the party. All St Hugo adopting the Jacob’s Creek eight Brewbars will also be name would help it break into growing celebrating, 80s-style, on the night territories like Asia. Fair enough, that’s of November 25. where the money is at the moment. To celebrate Mac’s birthday we Although Jacob’s Creek are the REBRANDED: The Orlando moniker on the iconic St Hugo label has been subtly sidelined and replaced with Jacob’s Creek. have two prize packs to give away. biggest growers of cabernet sauvignon in To be in to win answer the the Coonawarra, they also have an army following question and send it with of vineyards to choose from in the your name and contact details to Barossa and Eden Valleys with which to [email protected] by source fruit for their shiraz. November 17. You must be 18 years I was given a sample of shiraz from 15 or older to enter.Where did Mac’s of these vineyards, all from 2010 and all Either Hugo, or I go . beer begin? made in a similar manner — the only differences being the geography and vine age of each site. Sourced from Shiraz vines through to teenagers, and Centenary Hill Shiraz. For a wine The Upper North Island Wine Challenge winegrowers and winemakers’’. some beating. ‘‘This Syrah represents the grown in lowland locations such as 20-something’s, some middle-age spread nerd like me, it was eye-popping stuff. was initiated from a perceived need for Of the six gold medals awarded at this epitome of what I can achieve from my Gomersal Plains at 160m above sea level and a couple of geriatrics amongst them, the region and its sub regions to be year’s show Tracy Haslam’s Ti Point vineyard . .2010 was a sensational right through the Lyndoch Valley, and the flavour differences blow me recognised as making a unique and vineyard scooped two, one for her Ti vintage and the fruit was harvested at its Williamstown, Rowland Flat, Koonunga away every time.’’ Northland gets to the historical contribution to the New Point One Merlot Cabernet 2010 and the optimum condition.’’ Hill, Ebenezer and Greenock Hills (340m), The 8-10 year olds were powerfully point Zealand Wine Industry. other for her Ti Point Matriarch Haslam’s syrah is dedicated to her the differences in flavour were huge, fruity, juicy and spicy with tight tannins ‘‘We believe this collaborative Matakana Coast Syrah 2010. The syrah grandmother Nan, an inspirational particularly when altitude rises up to whereas the wines from the 90-year-old Regional wine shows are currently all the approach is unique,’’ says event embodies what Haslam believes can be woman who despite being in her mid-80s, 400m in Angaston and Flaxman Valley vines in Rowland Flat were incredibly rage in New Zealand and the results have spokesperson and associate judge Shona achieved when making a great wine with tears around on the four-wheeler Road vineyards at 470m above sea level. generous, smoky-sweet and showed just come out from one of this country’s White. ‘‘Our point of difference will in the exceptional fruit. Syrah doesn’t come motorbike ensuring all’s well on the ‘‘What I reckon you’ll need to deliciously complex dried herb flavours. smallest. A partnership between the long-term focus on the ability to identify easy in this region and it’s a real struggle manor. She has been instrumental in the concentrate on while you’re tasting is Not surprisingly, they both form major University of Auckland Wine Science the sub-regional differences between to get it ripe and keep it clean. But when development of this tiny vineyard vine age’’ says Sam, ‘‘there are 8-year-old components of the Jacob’s Creek St Hugo programme and regional winegrowers, wines and the consequent challenges for Northland puts on a good season it takes situated on Northland’s Matakana Coast. Quartz Reef Jacob’s Creek Central Otago Ti Point SIPSSIPS St Hugo Methode ‘Matriarch’ Coonawarra Traditionnelle Matakana Cabernet Rose NV $35 Syrah 2010 forfor the the Sauvignon ★★★★★ $45 Yellow Tail ★★★★★ Heron’s Flight 2006 $50 Gorgeous trout-pink Moscato NV $11 weekweek ★★★★★ colour with vibrant Perfumed and Matakana ★★★ This wine is glossy cherry blossom, peppery, this wine is Dolcetto A burst of white-flesh 5 with incredibly dense strawberry shortcake both muscular and Unplugged 2011 nectarine, yellow plum colour and gorgeous and toasted bagel meaty yet feminine $25 and spritzy, tangy aromas of mint, violet, aromas. Clean and and frisky and just ★★★1 tropical tastiness is hints of leather and elegant, it boasts like the woman it’s ⁄2 what you’ll get in each black fruit. In the seductive spritz, named after, it’ll If you’re after an ultra- glass. Sure it’s sweet, mouth it is warming, textural complexity become more smooth, ripe and ready but it’s also very clean plush, gamey and and impressively rich beautiful with age. redm then this will and crisp and at a elegantly structured. length of flavour. Different layers of definitely spin your rather bashful 7.5 per The tannins have a Made from 100 per flavour unfurl with wheels. Soft plummy cent alcohol, it’ll also gentle yet solid grip cent Bendigo pinot every minute it’s in aromas with hints of help you keep your and add a lovely noir, this is a the glass — so take cocoa and dried herbs, keel even during those textural layer to the sensational example. your time to enjoy the plus a splash of long, summer lunches. long, lingering finish. More please! velvety tannins and blackberry and a Widely available at Available from fine Available from fine lush length of flavour. warming, beefy finish. supermarkets or via wine stores. wine stores or via www.quartzreef.co.nz. Just lovely. www.tipoint.co.nz www.heronsflight.co.nz www.blackmarket.co.nz..

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