EXPLORE BURMA Select Travel Holidays Guide to Burma by River Cruise

EXPLORE BURMA Select Travel Holidays Guide To Burma By River Cruise.

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EXPLORE BURMA BY RIVER

photography by Staffen Schers

Select Travel Group’s owner Rachel, is a keen travel INTRODUCING BURMA enthusiast, with a particular love for travelling to Asia. She The north-western-most country on (Thanlwin) and Sittaung. The magnifi- has been to Burma twice, most mainland southeast Asia, Burma is cent Irrawaddy is Burma’s longest river recently in April/May 2015, five strategically located near major Indian at nearly 1,348miles long, and the Ir- years after her first visit. Using Ocean shipping lanes, and bordered rawaddy valley is home to the majority the pearls of wisdom that she by Bangladesh, India, China, Laos and of Burma’s population. has gleaned from her most Thailand. Rich in jade, gems, oil, natural recent trip to Burma, cruising gas and other mineral resources, and Today Burma is comprised of about along the Irrawaddy, we have characterised by central lowlands with 51million people, and 14 states and re- prepared this guide to Burma the Sittaung Valley and Chindwin Val- gions, but early Burmese civilisations by river, from Yangon to ley, Burma is also home to small moun- included the Tibeto-Burman-speaking Mandalay. tain ranges, which divide Burma’s three Pyu in Upper Burma and the Mon in river systems: the Irrawaddy, Salween Lower Burma. The Burmans of the King-

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dom of Nanzhao entered the upper Irrawaddy valley in the 9th century, and by the 1050s the Pagan Empire established itself, with it came the gradual dominance BURMA of the Burmese language and culture, and Theravada Buddhism. However the once-great Pagan Empire fell OR MYANMAR? to Mongol invasions, and in its place several warring states emerged, until the Taungoo Dynasty reunified Officially the ‘Republic of the Union ofMy- the country in the 16th century, and for a brief period anmar’ since 1989, or simply Myanmar, the the country was the largest empire in the history of country is still referred by many by its for- Southeast Asia. mer colonial name of Burma. It’s still debated heavily, with many political and ethnic opposi- Burma was conquered by British colonial forces and tion groups continuing to use ‘Burma’ as they became part of the British Empire in the 19th centu- refuse to recognise the legitimacy of the ruling ry, following three Anglo-Burmese Wars. All of Burma military government. For some, it’s simply a was officially annexed on 1 January 1886 after the fall case of old habits dying hard. Almost all of the of Burma, and it remained a British colony until inde- towns and cities have two names, which can pendence in 1948. Sadly one of the chief architects be a little confusing! For example, Yangon was of Burmese independence, the political leader Aung formerly Rangoon. San, never saw the independence he had worked so hard for, as he was assassinated in July 1947 by political rivals.

For a short period, independent Burma was a dem- ocratic nation until a coup in 1962 established a military dictatorship. For most of the period since independence, Burma has seen rampant ethnic strife, and the United Nations and several other organisations have reported consistent and systematic violations to human rights. However in 2011, following an his- toric election in 2010, the military junta was officially photography by Guillén Pérez dissolved, and the Burmese Military have taken steps towards relinquishing control of the government; Although Burma is a melting pot of different although former military leaders continue to wield ethnicities, with over 100 ethnic groups, the enormous power in the country. That being said, Bur- Burmese represent 68% of the population, ma’s human rights record and foreign relations have hence why many people still say the ‘Burmese’ improved, leading to the easing of trade and other – but, in fact, they could be Burmese, Kachin, economic sanctions. Burma is now a rising star in Kayin, Chin, or Mon to name just a few! tourism.

Rachel’s top tip: GO, before it’s too late!

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RETURNING TO

BURMA Shwedagon Pagoda

Rachel Wright’s first visit to Burma was back in March Defile, which is just 65 nautical miles from the Chinese 2010, when Burma was a pariah state and just before border. This itinerary also covered more of the river their 2010 elections. Prior to going, she researched than their previous visit on the Road to Mandalay, as thoroughly and read many books about the lives of well as re-treading their footsteps in some cities. the Burmese and the various tribes. Rachel ensured to find out, as much as possible, how and where to Arriving into Yangon airport, air side was pretty much spend money that would not end up in the Junta’s the same as in 2010. However, Rachel and Bill were coffers. Her visit to Burma with her husband Bill was immediately struck by how very different Burma was very interesting and they promised themselves they land side! Smart taxis have replaced the old, battered would return one day. Celebrating their 25th wedding taxis, and nearly everyone had a mobile phone! Back anniversary this year, Rachel and Bill talked about in 2010, a SIM card would cost $2,500 – in other words, where they should go to mark the occasion: they con- no one could afford to own one. Whilst Rachel had sidered various countries on their ever growing list, read that the Burmese now talk openly about their before ultimately both deciding they wanted to head country and politics, they didn’t believe this until they back to Burma. Rachel and Bill had two main reasons: heard their guide! This is perhaps one of the biggest the first reason was the people, as nowhere else in changes. Nowadays, the guides welcome any ques- the world had they visited a country where the people tions, including political ones; back in 2010, it was were so lovely and genuine. Secondly, they wanted only possible to speak openly in the car with a private to see what changes had been made, especially af- guide and driver – never in the streets! ter the 2010 election and the sanctions being lifted back in 2012. After some research, they settled upon One thing that certainly hasn’t changed is the charm- a 17-night itinerary on Cruiseco Explorer sailing on ing people and their beautiful smiles. the Irrawaddy from Prome in the south to the Second

3 Explore Burma By River - 2015 Cruise Select 2015 WHY BURMA BY RIVER? For those who really want to explore and get immersed in Burma, travelling by river is best suited, as opposed to travelling via ferry boat, local buses and planes, which can be quite testing and certainly not reliable. The convenience of only unpacking once, good quality accommodation and, of course, a high standard of food and service will enhance your experience. Cruising along the Irrawaddy allows you to experience ‘untouched’ village and small town life, some of which can only be accessed by river. Having a good knowledgeable guide will enhance your experience and is the best way to learn about the Burmese way of life. Burma is steeped in history and their untouched culture is truly fascinating. All the villages visited by river cruise are like being transported back in time: you will not be bombarded by souvenir sellers, and you will always be greeted with a smile and ‘mingalar-bar’ (hel- lo). The Burmese are caring, gentle and kind people, their way of life has always been to work, survive and Bagan help one another, no matter what the cost. Although Rachel and Bill noticed many changes in Yangon and Mandalay the river villages have remain unchanged… So far.

However it is important to note that cruising along the Irrawaddy is not year round due to water levels and the monsoon season; most operators do not op- erate June to August. In the dry season (November to March), the water level will be quite low in places and will have dropped by around 50 feet from its monsoon level (June to September). No matter which river oper- ator you choose to sail with, none of them can control the river water levels, so therefore be prepared for a slight change in itinerary. The cooler months to travel are from November to February, although still hot by UK standards. March onwards gets very hot – whilst Rachel and Bill were there at the end of April, the tem- Sun setting in Bagan perature reached 42 degrees!image

Explore Burma By River - 2015 4 Cruise Select 2015 TOP 5 REASONS TO VISIT Visiting Burma via ferry boat, local buses and BURMA 01 planes can be quite testing and less reliable BY

River cruise offers the convenience of only un- RIVER: packing once, as well as good quality accommo- 02 dation, and a high standard of food and service

Some villages and towns are only accessible by 03 river

The knowledgeable guides are the best way to learn about the Burmese way of life, and river cruise operators are able to offer unparalleled 04 and exclusive tours and experiences

The views from the river are amazing – from watching the local people going about their daily lives, to the many, many pagodas dotted around 05 on the hills!

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BEFORE YOU GO...

photography by Guillén Pérez

Visas: Currency: Visas are required to enter Burma, although they are The currency, kyats (pronounced ‘chats’), cannot be fortunately a lot easier now. All you have to do is visit purchased prior to entering Burma, therefore dollars www.evisa.moip.gov.mm and complete an easy form, are recommended. Another advantage of taking a upload your photo, and pay the visa cost of $50. With- river cruise is that pretty much everything is usually in 24 hours, you will usually receive your ‘Letter of included onboard, so you usually only need money Approval’, which must be presented with your pass- if you wish to buy souvenirs, or if you are enjoying port upon arrival. It is also important to note that your a pre- or post-cruise stay for a couple of nights. It is passport must have sufficient validity of more than six recommended to only change 20 to 30 dollars, for use months from the date you leave Burma. in the villages. Changing up $30 will give you around 31,000 khat, and it is advisable to have this in amount Health: as 1,000 khat notes. Big cities such as Yangon and It is advisable to always check with your GP and, al- Mandalay will accept dollars, but the villages are only though there are not any mandatory health require- able to accept kyats. If you are staying at a hotel for ments, it is best to play it safe, and have all the rec- a pre- or post-cruise stay, it’s worth checking whether ommended inoculations. Malaria is certainly highly the hotel is licensed for foreign exchange; Rachel’s ho- recommended, and it is better to be safe than sorry! tel in Yangon (the Chatrium Hotel) was not, although Rachel and Bill, for example, prefer to take Malarone, its gift shop was(!). There is a small bank within the which may be a little more expensive than other an- hotel, but it is only manned for a few hours during ti-malarial drugs, but they have never experienced daytime. However it is possible to stop at a bank dur- any side effects, and only have to remember to take ing a city tour of Yangon. The Burmese banks are an one tablet a day! experience in themselves! Note that you will need a passport although they may also allow an UK driving license as acceptable ID. There is otherwise no secu- Handy phrases: rity in the banks – they carry ‘rice sacks’ full of money Use these phrases, and you will be sure to see around as though they contained rice, not curren- the locals smile and giggle! cy. The money counting area, which are just simple desks, don’t have any screens; where else in the world Nay Kaung Lar = how are you? would this happen?

Che Su Bel = thank you! It is also important to note that currently Travellers’ Cheques are not accepted. Tah tah = good bye!

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HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE.

This guide is based upon experiencing Burma by river chel visited may not, although other river cruises will cruise along the Irrawaddy. There are various differ- visit other, similar villages instead. For that reason, ent river cruises operating, and – as mentioned above this will not quite be a day-by-day account following – itineraries can be subject to change due to the riv- the itinerary, but will focus on areas such as: er water levels. In order to be as useful as possible, Experiencing Religious Burma, Experiencing Bur- this guide will focus on the main experiences and key mese Lifestyle, Experiencing Unique Burma, and sites, rather than following the specific itinerary which Experiencing Life on the Irrawaddy. Rachel went along. Many of the most famous sites may well be visited by the vast major of river cruise operators, but some of the smaller villages which Ra- Sambuddhai Kat Kyaw Temple (home to over 530,000 Buddha images)

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EXPERIENCING RELIGIOUS

BURMA photography by Staffen Schers

Burma has many stunning pagodas and Buddhist ing hands is not appropriate in Burma when greeting monasteries and temples, with religion playing a vital monks, nuns or people in general – just a smile and a and important part in Burmese life. There are some nod is a perfect greeting. very iconic temples and pagodas which are must-see sites which practically every river cruise will see, as Ladies, remember no short skirts or shorts please – well as some less well-known and off-the-beaten track keep knees covered, although it is generally fine to ex- temples or pagodas to visit. pose arms. However there were a couple of places we visited which did not allow ‘string/strappy tops’, so it is The Burmese are very tolerant and easy going. Unlike handy to carry a wrap of some sort with you to cover many other faiths, Buddhists allow visitors into their your shoulders, when necessary. It isn’t just the wom- temples and monasteries, and mostly allow photos to en that have to cover their knees: men are required be taken of their sacred space. Just one rule applies: to as well in many places, so they should either wear you have to take your shoes off and go bare-footed. long shorts, or be authentic and wear a longhi! On Rachel’s trip, she called it a ‘shoe off day’ – therefore it is sensible to have shoes you can easily slip on Although Yangon (formerly Rangoon) is no longer and off. the capital, it is still the largest and most commercial city. It is a popular city to be visited by river cruises, It is considered offensive to point with your feet or perhaps as an embarkation or disembarkation port, touch people on the head or upper body. Also re- or for a pre- or post-cruise stay. Prome is another member – don’t cross your legs in the presence of popular embarkation/disembarkation port for river monks or elders, and ladies must not sit down next cruises, although it is just over 6 hours’ from Yangon to a monk. Whilst in Britain (and other Western coun- by road (plus stops). Rachel’s river cruise included tries) we shake hands when we meet someone, shak- a pre-cruise stay in Yangon before transferring to

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Prome to embark on the river cruise. Many colonial and pagoda complexes is Thayekhittaya, also known buildings still line the streets of Yangon, such as the as Sri Ksetra, an ancient Pyu city. The Tibeto-Bur- High Court, Central Telegraph Office, and The Rand- man-speaking Pyu people were the earliest inhabit- er House – originally commissioned by Surti Indian ants of Burma, and ruled this area between the 4th Traders – although the higher floors have now been and 8th century A.D. They founded a number of city- converted into flats, whilst the lower floors are used states as they migrated southwards during a thou- by the Internal Revenue department. The former Cur- sand-year period commonly called the Pyu millenni- rency department is now Yangon’s Division Court. um, from the Bronze Age to the classical states period Heading towards the port stands the Famous Strand during the emergence of the Pagan Kingdom in the Hotel. Street vendors selling second hand books, flip- late 9th century. At Sri Ksetra, you can visit the ancient flops, and street food – you name it, they sell it! Home Shwesandaw Pagoda complex and museum. Excava- to two especially fabulous pagodas, Yangon is a must- tion took place here between 2009 and 2010, and this see for those interested in Burmese religious life. area is now an UNESCO world heritage site. Around 85% of Burma’s 50 million people are Bud- The jewel in Yangon’s crown is undoubtedly the famous Shwedagon Pagoda, a truly amazing site not to be missed, and a photographer’s paradise. Rachel had a reasonably early start at 8am in order to visit the Shwedagon Pagoda before the heat intensifies. Dress code is shoulders and knees covered, and shoes have to be removed. The tiles are made of marble so whilst it isn’t hot under foot, your feet will get dirty! It is a vast site with so much to take in and admire. It wasn’t Shwedagon Pagoda Yangon crowded and, apart from Rachel’s group of 14, all the other visitors were local. On Rachel’s previous visit to dhist; they practice Theravada Buddhism, which is Burma, she visited the Shwedagon Pagoda as the sun more austere and ascetic. It is customary for a male was setting. If time allows, this is an absolute must: to enter a monastery twice in his life, once as a nov- it really is spectacular watching the sun slowly set ov ice monk usually between the age of 10 and 20, and this magnificent site. again as a fully ordained monk, around the age of 20. Some may only remain a monk for a few days, whilst others stay for life. Their daily routine starts at 5am and the novice monks will make breakfast for the sen- ior monks, followed by morning lessons and cleaning up. By 9am, they go out on their daily alms walk. Many younger novices will visit their family home to collect their alms. Monks do not eat after midday and the afternoons are spent learning. Many of the young- Yangon - Reclining Buddha er monks nowadays have mobile phones and can be seen taking photos of visitors, just like tourists were doing to them! A lesser-known religious site in Yangon is the home to the 70m reclining Buddha. Oddly enough, this site If you get the chance, be sure to visit a monastery. isn’t that well known apart from the locals that come In Salay, Rachel visited an Old Wooden Monastery, to worship here, making it quite a treasure. home to just 10 monks. Salay is 22 miles south of Ba- Another site which is home to some stunning temple gan (a popular destination for river cruises), and dates

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back to 12th and 13th centuries, with a population of There will, of course, be so many other monasteries just 10,000. This area is still an active religious centre to visit, such as Bagaya Monastery near Amarapura. and home to around fifty monasteries. Many of the The Bagaya Monastery was built in 1934, and is made buildings are from the colonial era and some still fea- entirely of teak wood, with 267 gigantic teak wood ture the Royal Crown on their facades. The complex of posts, measuring 60ft in height and 9ft in circumfer- the Old Wooden Monastery which Rachel visited also ence. Steps to the entrance were very hot under foot, houses a meditation building, where monks come once inside it was lovely and cool. The walls inside had from afar to meditate. The monastery had many de- been intricately carved. Also near Amarapura is the tailed wooden carvings, which were very intricate in Mahar Aung Mye Bon San Monastery, which is made places. Visitors were allowed to go upstairs into the of bricks and dates back to 1822. This monastery monks’ living areas, which gave an unique insight into was damaged in the 1838 earthquake and repaired their basic way of life. in 1873. Its architecture simulates that of a wooden monastery with multiple roofs and a seven tiered- prayer hall.

Some of the most famous and striking temple complexes can be found in Bagan, formerly known as Pa- gan, the capital city of the ancient Kingdom of Pagan. Bagan as a city has already changed a lot since 2010: when Rachel first visited 5 years ago, her group were the only visitors at this site, but now there are quite a few Asian tourist buses, although to be fair it wasn’t crowded by any means. The locals have now caught on to tourism and they now follow tourists from one stop to another on foot and by bike selling postcards, t-shirts and sarongs. However they do not pester, and they were all very sweet. There are even a handful of restaurants there now! Bagan has over 2,237 Pagodas scattered in an area of 42 square miles. Every direc- Mahar Aung Mye Bon San Monastery (Brick Monestery) tion you look you will see a Stupa! One of the ‘must see’ temples is Ananda, which is just one of four sur- viving Buddhist temples left in Bagan. It was built in Salay is also home to the Mann Pagoda complex, 1105 AD and is known as the finest, largest, well-pre- which houses the largest straw lacquered Buddha im- served and most revered of the Bagan temples. It’s no age. It is said that this Buddha image was originally surprise that it is sometimes called the ‘Westminster in Monywa and was washed downstream in the 1888 Abbey of Burma’, as it is very impressive, fusing Mon monsoon. The second largest Buddha in the world, and adoptive Indian styles of architecture. There are second to China, can also be found in Burma, stand- four stunning 9.5metre standing Buddha images in ing at 425ft tall. At the same location, you will also find each corner: North, South, East and West. Although the longest reclining Buddha, at 333feet in length! the temple was damaged in the 1975 earthquake, it These landmarks can be found en route from Sam- has since been lovingly restored. Another popular buddhai Kat Kyaw to Sagaing. Sambuddhai Kat Kyaw temple to visit in Bagan is Htilominlo Temple, built by itself is a fabulous and iconic temple in its own right King Nantaungmya in 1218, and known to be the last with over 530,000 Buddha images built between 1939 Myanmar-style temple to be built in Bagan. Traces of and 1951, financed purely by donations. old murals have faded but still visible, there are also

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four Buddhas in this temple. These are both stun- shrine and lay gold leaf on the Buddha, which over ning temples, and utterly different from each other in time has distorted the image’s outline. Every morning style, so Bagan is ideal for seeing such different styles. at 4am, monks come to wash the face and brush the Around the outside of Htilominlo temple are some teeth of the Buddha, a daily ritual carried out by a sen- market stalls selling what Bagan is also famous for: ior monk. However, please note that only males are sand paintings. Here you can see how they are made, allowed in the actual chamber area (but they are able which is fascinating, and priced from $10 dollars up- to take photos inside). wards, depending on size.

Rachel recommends: Bagan is really the only place to buy Sand paintings. They transport well as they can be rolled up and brought home to frame. They look wonderful, particularly if placed in a

delicate bamboo style frame, and are a great amemory of mystical Bagan.

Mahumuni Pagoda

If your river cruises includes Mingun, be sure to vis- The Unfinished Pagoda in Mingun it the Pahtodawhyi, better known as the ‘unfinished Pagoda’. Built in 1791, it was intentionally left un- Mandalay is another city which most river cruises will finished. In front of the Pagoda are the remains of most likely visit, if not to actually embark or disem- two giant Chinthe Lions standing at 29 meters. This bark. It is well worth having a good exploration of this spectacular site is highly visible from the river and is city, particularly paying a visit to the Mahamuni Pago- just a few minutes’ walk from the riverbank. From all da, also known as ‘Rakhine’. The Pagoda is reached angles, you can see the huge cracks caused by earth- by walking through a very colourful and interesting quakes over the years. Not far from here, you can local market, adorned with thousands of glittering also visit the famous Mingun Bell, the largest working Buddha images in all shapes and sizes, some with bell in the world, which was supposed to have been neon lights. The smell of the incense and flower stalls installed on the top of the stupa, but never made it. make the walk very pleasant too. This Pagoda is an 55555 is inscribed in Burmese script on the outside of absolute must-see as it houses the most venerated the bell: this is the weight in ‘viss’, a Burmese unit of Buddha image in Burma, standing at just under four weight, which translates to a whopping 90 tons! Over meters in height and weighs a massive 6.5 tons. Al- the road was The Mingun Home for the Aged, which though originally cast of metal it is now completely some visitors may be invited to take a look around. coated in a thick layer of gold leaf, around two inch- The men and women have separate quarters, with es! Each and every day hundreds of pilgrims visit the the men’s area a lot more basic than the women’s.

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Another impressive example of pagoda to visit, if you get the chance, is the Myat Than Lun Pagoda, the larg- RACHEL’S TOP est shrine in Magwe. Built in 1927, the Myat Than Lun Pagoda is notably made of solid gold bricks. Like most 10 RELIGIOUS of the other sites visited during a river cruise, it is peaceful and not crowded: that’s the beauty of being SITES IN BURMA ‘off the beaten track!’

1. Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon – a famous pagoda which dominates the Yangon skyline, and a must-see at sunset for stunning views;

2. Kyauktatgyi Pagoda in Yangon – home of the iconic 70m reclining Buddha;

3. Mann Pagoda in Salay - home of the largest straw lacquered Buddha;

4. Pahtodawhyi Pagoda in Mingun – the late 18th century Pagoda which was purposely left unfinished;

5. Mahamuni Pagoda (The Rakhine) in Man-

Myat Than Lun Pagoda (made of solid gold) dalay - home to the most venerated image of Buddha;

Of course, religion is so interwoven into Burmese 6. Old Wooden Monastery in Salay – houses daily life, it’s not just iconic temples and pagodas, 10 resident monks, but receives many monks but small village shrines, too. One notable example visiting from afar for its meditation room; is the Bo Bo Gyi shrine, a famous nat – meaning ‘great grandfather’ and refers to the name of a guardian 7. Ananda Temple in Bagan – commonly spirit – in the village of Tagaung, a former ancient city. referred to as the ‘Westminster Abbey of You may even witness a Buddhist parade – whilst in Burma’; Bagan, Rachel saw a parade heading up the road, led by a couple of ladies followed by around 50+ children, 8. Htilominlo Temple in Bagan – renowned as and men bringing up the rear, all made up and danc- the last Myanmar-style temple; ing, with a small band and a generator on wheels! This was just before sunset, and was a celebration of the 9. Sambuddhai Kat Kyaw in Monywa – home full moon, and Buddha’s birthday – and a wonderful of 530,000 Buddha images, and near the thing to behold. second largest Buddha in the world;

10. Mahar Aung Mye Bun San Monastery in Amarapura – an early 19th century monastery made from bricks, which was damaged by the 1838 earthquake

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EXPERIENCING THE BURMESE

LIFESTYLE Typical Village Life

There is much to be learnt about the Burmese lifestyle onboard a river cruise – from witnessing their traditional skills in lacquer ware, pottery, making gold leaf or silk ware, to learning about the make-up they use and clothes they wear – even to the use of Toddy Palm! By visiting off-the-beaten track villages which are otherwise inaccessible apart from by river, not only will you have a fantastic opportunity to watch the Burmese deploy traditional skills which have remained the same over centuries, but will have an unique opportunity to learn about an entirely different culture up-close and first hand.

BURMESE SKILLS Lacquer ware is commonplace all over south east ally with horse hair, followed by using ‘Thayo’, a thick Asia, and Burma is no different. Bagan is the place mix of Thitsee resin and ash or sawdust. Many layers to purchase Burmese lacquerware, but it is also well are applied; good lacquerware has sixteen layers. Af- worth a visit to a lacquer ware workshop. In 1990, the ter layering and drying, the pieces are then engraved government relocated a whole village within Bagan. by hand. A steady hand, patience and concentration Many of the villagers had lived in the village since are essential requirements for this painstaking work. the 1970s, and the new village (now known as ‘New Visitors will have a chance to look around their shop, Bagan’) had previously been a peanut field. It is said which was adjacent to the workshop, which had hun- that some villagers were only given a week’s notice! dreds of pieces on display. If you wander into the There is a lacquer college here, providing lacquer back room there are huge pieces are lacquer ware, ware courses which take one year to complete. One which must have taken months to complete. It is, of of the lacquer ware workshops you can visit is U Ba course, possible to purchase some pieces. However, Nyein workshop, a family business since 1930. Lac- please note, if you try to pay by credit card, it is com- quer ware goes through many processes, all by hand, mon for the electricity to cut out during the transac- and even the smaller pieces can take months to com- tion, but don’t worry – the owner will have to rush out plete. First, thin strands of bamboo are weaved, usu- to start their generator!

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The small village of Yandabo is notable for two things: one has their own role. The clay is delivered, mixed up the site where the peace treaty of the first Anglo Bur- and put in bamboo baskets; the women carry these mese War was signed in 1826, and it’s also famous on their heads ready to start the pot-making process, for its pottery. A visit to this village will provide you all by hand of course. They are paid one dollar a pot with a fascinating insight into the ancient traditional and produce eight a day, which are then sold on for Burmese methods of making pottery. Everyone in the $20. Majority of the pots are now exported all over village plays their part; the men bring the mud, sand the world. Each community has between two and five and water from the riverbank to the village and mix kilns that reach a staggering 1500 degrees. Once fired, together with their feet by continually trampling in it they are engraved by hand. If you get the chance, this ensuring it is mixed thoroughly. Women also play their very interesting tour lasts about an hour. part: two women, one a potter while the other uses her legs to keep moving the wood and string to keep the potter’s wheel turning – team work! The pots are dried and engraved by hand. Pots were everywhere even piled on the upper floors of their homes.

Yandabo Pottery Village

If you get the chance to visit Ava, take the opportunity to watch the weavers in action at the Shwe Sin Tai Silk

hand made pots ware factory and shop. This is fascinating: watching how they weave the silk by hand and foot on ancient wooden looms and spinning wheels. It’s also lovely They don’t use a kiln to fire the pots: they put a layer listening to the girls singing and chatting away, with of leaves and wood clippings and then layer the pots, the clickedly-clack noise in the background. Over the seven pots high. In the evening the fire is lit. They road is the shop where you can buy scarves, hats and have to produce 50 pots a day and they hire the pot- clothes – all made of silk. Proudly displayed on a pan- ter’s wheel. el on the wall are old black and white photographs and newspaper cuttings of Aung San Suu Kyi, Princes Kyauk Myaung is also famous for its pots; but these Charles and Camilla and David Cameron. Aung San aren’t ordinary pots, they’re 50 gallon pots! From the Suu Kyi is believed to purchase her silk ware from this riverbank, you will be able to witness a hive of activity, factory. as the bank is lined with both big and small pots. Men roll the larger pots on the plank to waiting ships whilst the women carry one smaller pot on their heads and one under arm; the women are tiny but very strong. Ox and carts and old trucks deliver pots to the bank ready for loading up. Once ashore, it’s only 20 easy steps directly to Kyauk Myaung, where the famous 50-gallon pots are made. This area includes four large Shwe Sin Tai Silk Factory pottery villages that employ about 52% of the area’s population. Again it’s all about teamwork, and every-

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As most river cruises will likely include a visit to Man- astounding to see how many processes go into mak- dalay, it is worthwhile visiting Aung Nan, a well-known, ing gold leaf. Making a gold ribbon from a solid piece woodcarving workshop. This workshop is filled from of gold takes a long time. Beating gold can, in total, top to bottom with intricately carved masterpieces take between 5 or 7 hours! The first beating is to in- ranging from enormous puppets and Buddha images, crease the size, taking 30 minutes. It is then meticu- not to mention the array of tapestries hanging from lously cut into square inch pieces, and beaten again the ceiling. As you would expect, everything is made for another 30 minutes, and then a third beating for by hand and it’s a great experience to see the artisans five hours. The small pieces, which will eventually be- at work, in particular the young ladies working at var- come only 0.000005 thin, are then carefully packed on ious stages of the tapestries. Such a lot of work goes straw paper and bagged up. The women take care of into creating these beautiful handicrafts. Whilst a cutting and packing the gold leaf in a separate room. common ‘pet peeve’ for many travellers is being pes- The thudding noise of the heavy sledge hammers is tered or made to feel you have to buy souvenirs, this, constant and done by just two men. fortunately, is not the case in Burma! BURMESE VILLAGE LIFE One of the highlights of a river cruise in Burma is visiting the small villages and just getting immersed in village life. There will of course be pagodas, shrines, monasteries, and workshops to visit, but the Burmese people are arguably the real treasures of Burma. Dif- ferent river cruise operators will visit different villages, but the charm and nature of the people will be

Aung Nan in Mandalay - Hand made puppets much the same.

Gold plays a very important part in Burmese life, it is constantly being applied to their favourite Buddha images as offerings, some Burmese also eat a leaf on a daily basis; they believe it is good for one’s health! Another fabulous insight into Burmese lifestyle in Mandalay is a visit to ‘King Galon’ a famous gold-leaf

workshop. This is a popular site for visitors, as Rachel Shwe Pyi Thar Village first visited in 2010, and noted that it hasn’t changed at all, apart from some of the workers now owning mobiles. It is A typical village such as Shwe Pyi Thar Village will have a mix of housing including bamboo, weaved bamboo and a couple made with bricks. The children greet travellers with smiles and inquisitive eyes. There are chickens, pigs, dogs and cows, women cooking, drying out beans and chillies. Times have changed very little in these types of villages, although you may spot a small solar panel charging a battery of some sort. Shwe Pyi Thar Village has a junior school in the vil- Intricate finishing touches to hand made tapestries lage which has 48 pupils, who gather together to sing some songs and practice their English when travellers

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arrive. It is common for river cruise groups to club This continues all morning until the quota for the day together to give some money to the local guide to is reached, which can be up to fifty palms a day! This purchase school bags and pencils to give out. A visit procedure not only takes a lot of skill, but also is also to Tagaung – once an ancient city, but today a small very high risk. village – is similarly charming. Passing the village clin- ic and the home of the community midwife, there is Once the sap is collected it can be boiled over an open an assortment of so-called shops selling everything fire; once thickened and cooled down, it becomes from flip-flops, motorbike helmets, second-hand more solid and can be rolled by hand into edible books, fruit, vegetables, pieces, similar to candy. seeds and an array of It can also be fermented nuts. There are a varie- in the sun to make toddy ty of food stalls selling beer. When the trees are both hot and cold snacks nearing the end of their to passers-by. Tagaung life span the trunks are even has a shop selling used for making cooking bikes and electric fans. utensils and pieces of

It’s not just shops to be Finger licking Toddy Sap furniture. seen – during Rachel’s visit, she saw a studious One of the other benefits little boy doing extra of river cruising on the Ir- studies on a make shift rawaddy is that most riv- desk on the roadside, er vessels are designed whilst further along a with low passenger ca- group of boys playing pacity, giving a sense of ‘Ladaku’, a Burmese shuf- intimacy and camarade- fle board game. rie between the passen- Bath time - village style gers. It may be possible, Shwe Pyi Thar is in an on some river cruises, area with lots of Toddy to enjoy an impromptu Palm trees, which have stop, and moor along- various uses: providing side small villages not on shade, drink, food, medi- the itinerary. Rachel had cine and even furniture – an impromptu stop in a absolutely nothing goes small village called Than- to waste. The toddy juice bayer, about 127miles is collected each dawn Tossing and drying chillies north of Mandalay. On by climbing up a rick- such a visit, the group ety bamboo ladder, and were accompanied by then by an even smaller ladder towards the top of their guide and a couple crew members. This was a the palm. The toddy-filled pots are removed and re- fantastic opportunity to spot water buffalo enjoying a placed with empty ones. The pots have to be secured good soak in the river (from a safe distance!), children with string and placed underneath what they call the doing acrobats in a big straw mound in a field, teen- ‘toddy udders’ which are the juice producing shoots. agers playing football, and ox and carts making their The shoots have to be sliced with a sharp knife in or- way back home for the night! der for the toddy juice to start dripping into the pot.

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when cyclone Nargis hit the Irrawaddy Delta, it took the military days to help. In fact, the military resisted help from the outside world. Therefore, the Burmese have always had to help themselves, and do so will- ingly; it is their way.

BURMESE FOOD

Thayet Village Horse & Carts Burmese cuisine is incredibly varied, due to its myr- iad of local ethnic minorities, diverse religious back- grounds, and the influence of its geographic -neigh BURMESE TRANSPORT bours such as China, India and Thailand. Whilst river cruise is the best way to see Burma, from time to time there will be transfers (whether by road or even local ferry) to see particular sites, or there may be excursions available which offer different ways to tour cities, for example a horse and cart around Am- arapura. Horse and carts are usually actually quite comfortable, and covered for shade. The track is a little dusty, but preferable to walking in the heat.

If travelling via road to visit a site, you will find various Typical market stall places where they are digging up the road - not sure the reason why, but it happens all the time. Clearly, this is something the Burmese are used to, because they carry planks of wood to cover the holes to enable them to drive over.

There may be times where your bus may reach an area where a large section of the road has been dug out! When this happened on one of Rachel’s bus jour- neys, the driver and crew moved boulders of rock into Fish Paste the hole and brought out the planks of wood again. The driver drove the bus carefully, inch by inch, over Characterized by extensive use of fish products, like the manmade crossing. When the crossing gave way, fish sauce and ngapi (fermented seafood), Burmese the driver and crew started digging the bus out with cuisine also includes a variety of salads (a thoke), cen- one shovel. Fortunately for Rachel’s group, there were tred on one major ingredient ranging from starches plenty of trees for shade and the crew always carry such as rice, wheat and rice noodles, glass noodles water for passengers to keep them hydrated on ex- and vermicelli, to potato, ginger, tomato, kaffir lime, cursions. As the Burmese are such a friendly people, long bean, lahpet (pickled tea leaves) and ngapi. Tra- it wasn’t long before locals on bikes stopped to help ditional Burmese favourites may be summarised by dig the group out by hand; even a monk came along the popular rhyme: ‘A thee ma, thayet; a thar ma, wet, to supervise the operation. It took less than an hour a ywet ma, lahpet’ or ‘Of all the fruit, the mango’s the before they were on their way again. Burmese people best; of all the meat, the pork’s the best; and of all the have always had to fend for themselves as the mili- leaves, lahpet’s the best’. Particularly in landlocked tary did very little to help communities in need, even cities such as Mandalay, meat and poultry are com-

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monly used, although coastal cities such as Sittwe, oil. The Chins are a Christian ethnic group from the Kyaukpyu, Mawlamyaing (formerly Moulmein) and hills of western Burma, and experienced a great deal more commonly use more seafood. of governmental oppression in the 1960s, including a rice blockade; many fled the country. The traditional way to eat meals in Burma is from dishes on a low table, while sitting on a bamboo mat. Dish- es are served simultaneously, typically with steamed rice as the main dish and accompanying dishes (hin) ranging from a curried freshwater or dried/salted fish dish or a curried meat or poultry dish, a light soup (hin gyo or, if sour, chinyay hin), and fresh/boiled vegetables to accompany a salty dish – in Lower Burma this would almost invariably be a curried sauce of pick- photography by Jennifer Mwong led fish. Etiquette and tradition demand that elders are always served first, as a mark of respect, before the others join in; even where the elders are absent, The diverse religious makeup of Burma is appar- the first morsel of rice from the pot is scooped and ent in its cuisine, with Buddhists avoiding beef, and set aside as an act of respect to one’s parents. This Muslims not eating pork. For devout Buddhists, beef custom is known as u cha, which literally translate to is taboo as the cow is highly regarded as a beast of ‘first serve’. When eating, the Burmese use their right burden. However, vegetarian dishes are usually only hand, forming small balls of rice with their fingertips, commonly eaten during the Buddhist Lent (Wa-dwin),

photography by CC travelfood.com photography by CC travelfood.com

and mixing this with various morsels before popping a three-month Rains Retreat, as well as on Uposatha it into their mouths. For noodle dishes, chopsticks and Sabbath days. During this time, the fasting rules dic- Chinese-style spoons are adopted, although a spoon tate that only two meals are consumed before mid- is usually sufficient for noodle salads. Cutlery such as day (i.e. breakfast and lunch) and devout Buddhists knives and forks are rarely used in homes, but will al- are to abstain completely from meat (this practice is ways be available for guests, and in restaurants and referred to as thek that lut, or to put it literally, ‘free of hotels. The Burmese don’t usually serve drinks with killing’). However throughout the rest of the year, the meals; instead, a light broth or consommé is served bulk of Burmese food is in fact prepared with fish or from a communal bowl. Outside of meals, the bever- meat broth bases, although many foods can be pre- age of choice if light green tea. pared vegetarians upon request. Indeed, many of the ethnic groups prepare at least one inherently vegetar- Chin cuisine is focused around rice, millet, and maize. ian dish; most notably cuisine from the Shan people. Chin dishes tend to be boiled, as opposed to fried in Geographic influences from India can be found in

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Burmese-style samosas, biryanis, curries, and Bur- LEARNING ABOUT BURMESE LIFESTYLE ONBOARD mese versions of typically Indian breads such as naan Most river cruise operators will endeavour to show and paratha. Cities in particular enjoy Chitti kala or you not only as many of the sites and villages as pos- Chettiar (Southern Indian) cuisine. The use of ingredi- sible, but provide further glimpses into daily lives of ents like bean curd, soya sauce and various noodles, the Burmese, sometimes with presentations or talks, as well as stir-frying techniques, highlights the influ- usually whilst sailing between villages. ence of Burma’s Chinese neighbours. Similar to the neighbouring countries of Thailand and Laos, fried insects are a popular Burmese snack.

Some river cruises may offer cooking demonstrations at some point during your cruise. The head chef on Rachel’s river cruise demonstrated a tea leaf and ginger salad – certainly an acquired taste!

Thanakha - Sun screen

‘Thanakha’ is a natural make up which is made from an Asian tree called Limoniaacidissima. These trees can only found in Burma, India, Sri Lanka, Java and Pakistan. The Thanakha cream is made by grounding the bark, wood and roots, mixed with water on a spe-

All parts ‘Pig’ freshly cooked cial stone slab called a ‘Kyaukpyin’ to make a paste. It has many uses including proteins that are anti-age-

Whilst exploring Burma, you may also notice that nothing gets wasted: if an animal, for example a pig, is killed for food, then every part of it will be cooked and put on a skewer for eating!

Rachel recommends: For excellent food, fantastic service, and a Thanakha log market stall beautiful setting, why not try Le Planteur res- taurant in Yangon? Set in beautiful gardens, Le Planteur is close by Aung San Suu Kyi’s home, ing, anti-bacterial, and anti-fungal, it shields the skin from UVB rays too. Most women and children use this where she previously spent many years under and a few younger men. The trees must be at least 35 house arrest, although you can only see the

years old to be mature enough to crop good quality

huge iron gates with ‘NLD’ banners on either a cuttings. Thanakha logs are sold on all the markets, side.memory of mystical Bagan. as well as the grounded powder. During the presenta- tion of Rachel’s river cruise, the guests all put some on their faces, and found that the make-up was remark- ably cold and kept the face cool for a long time – a distinct benefit in such a hot climate!

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Burmese men wear longyis in different styles: such as ankle length, whilst country folk wear them shorter, above the knee. Longyis can also be transformed into shorts and a jacket for the cooler areas. Burmese men always have two longyis with them: one they wear, and the other has many other uses ranging from a sling bag, back pack; it can also be curled up and placed on your head as a cushion when carrying items on your head. A longyi is two meters in length and width, and sewn up, effectively making a tube.

Many river cruises will also feature local entertainment onboard at least once during a cruise. This could be differ depending on the river cruise, but Burmese pup- pet shows are popular. The puppeteers are extremely talented, coping with up to 90 strings! It’s worthwhile watching the local entertainment, as it gives a different flavour and insight, and is all part of the immersive experience.

On deck evening entertainment - Local village dancers

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EXPERIENCING UNIQUE

BURMA Hpowindaung Caves

Whilst there are so many beautiful and ancient sites century. Archaeologists say these caves contain the to visit, and the Burmese people are charming and so richest collection of murals and Buddha statues in friendly, there are also other uniquely Burmese ex- Southeast Asia, making it well worth the trip! periences to savour. From breathtaking views on the Tan Kyi Mountain, to the fascinating carvings in the Hpowindaung Caves, to the adorable elephants in the Nat Pauk Elephant Camp, these are all must-see experiences in their own right.

Rachel recommends: Visit the beautiful Kandawagyi Park, one of Buddha Statue with mural painted interior Yangon’s greenest parks. Although you will have to be careful when strolling along the teak broadwalk – it’s not the easiest of walks, BREATH-TAKING VIEWS

and is a little tricky for anyone with walking Between Salay and Bagan along the river lies Tan Kyi. adifficulties, as it is very uneven in places. If your river cruise docks there, it is well worth a trip to Tan Kyi Mountain. From where a river vessel will dock, it will be a minibus journey via a single-track road, of HPOWINDAUNG CAVES sorts, taking about thirty minutes. It’s a bumpy ride to Arriving at Hpowindaung Caves, near Monwya, you reach the top of Tan Kyi Hill, and from there it’s across will likely find that the heat is intense – it was at 40 a dilapidated wooden bridge – some people have to degrees at the time of Rachel’s visit – and there will likely be no breeze and very little shade. There is a covered walkway, with steps that take you part way to the caves –however, beware there are ‘monkeys on your route’ – and the rest of the walk is on uneven gravel and rocks. These caves are an extraordi- nary complex containing 947 small and large caves that have been created by carving into the sandstone.

Many of the caves have Buddha statues and mural Famous teak U Bein Bridge paintings dating back to between the 14th and 18th

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close their eyes and hold their breath! However the either the mahout or elephant, the other dies shortly spectacular view of the area and river from the moun- afterwards. tain peak is well worth the journey. On the hill lies the gold Tantkyi Taung Pagoda that was built during 1059 AD by King Anawrahta, and is visible from much of Bagan.

If you visit Ava, the U Bein Bridge, dating back to 1850, is a popular attraction. 1.2km in length and spanning the stunning Taungthamen Lake, it is believed to be Rachel’s new best friend the oldest and longest teak bridge in the world. One of the best ways to admire this bridge and lake is by sampan (a small local boat), and the return cost of the sampan, which holds up to 4 people, is just 8,000 kyats.

Must See: Morning bath time If you visit Bagan, and are lucky enough to be there to enjoy the sun setting over the ancient

During a trip to the Nat Pauk Elephant Camp, visitors

city, this is another wonderful photo opportu- a can follow the elephants for their morning bath. The nity and an absolute must! area was very small at the time of Rachel’s visit in May as it is the dry season so they go in two or three at a time. When the monsoon arrives, their bathing area is ELEPHANT LOGGING CAMP much larger. Back on dry land, the mahouts and ele- From Katha, you can visit the Nat Pauk Elephant phants demonstrate their techniques and skills, with Camp; the coach journey is just 30 minutes and it’s the elephants being rewarded with bananas. During interesting to see the surrounding area of Katha, the Rachel’s visit, she saw an older elephant, aged fifty, setting of George Orwell’s ‘Burmese Days’. Once you make an appearance; he had a healed broken an- arrive at the entrance to the camp even if it is very hot, kle. With a huge supply of bananas visitors can also the Eucalyptus trees provide much-needed shade feed the elephants; Rachel chose the baby elephant’s along the 10 minutes’ walk through the jungle on a mother, and she was able to get right up close as the dried up mud pathway. This camp has about twelve elephant was so gentle. A visit to the camp will usual- elephants, including (at the time of Rachel’s visit in ly last about an hour; a very enjoyable and unforgetta- May 2015) a 3-month-old baby, which was so cute. A ble hour too. There may be opportunities on the way guide translates for the head of the camp whilst he back from the Elephant camp for a photo stop and a explained about their work and how the elephants visit to the Kat Thar Tennis Club and Club House in Ka- were trained. In short, the elephants have to learn tha. The tennis court was in good condition, and the twenty words (commands). The mahout controls the clubhouse is now used as an office-cum-shop. A fur- elephant by sitting on its neck and taps his foot be- ther photo opportunity may also be taken at George hind the elephant’s ear. It takes about twenty years for Orwell’s house, although Rachel was only able to take the elephants to be trained and ready to work. They photos of the outside. However if the doors are open, have the same mahout throughout their life and form it is possible to get a photo of the entrance too. a close bond. It is common that upon the death or

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EXPERIENCING LIFE ON THE

IRRAWADDY Taguang Village

Cruising along the Irrawaddy provides a unique in- When sailing down the Irrawaddy towards the Second sight into Burma. Not only does it give you exclusive Defile, it is worth noting that due to the water levels, it access to many untouched villages, you can truly ap- will not always be possible for the boat to go through preciate the sights and sounds of Burma. River cruis- the Second Defile. Instead, the tour will be done by es along the Irrawaddy usually set sail at sunrise in speedboat or long tail boat, which is what happened order to reach the next destination between 8 and 9, on Rachel and Bill’s recent river cruise. and they never sail at night, so you are moored along the river by late afternoon and remain overnight. On Rachel’s river cruise, their ship set sail to Katha The great thing is you can watch all the locals doing (pronounced Kata), a relatively built-up area com- their laundry, children playing in the river, splashing pared to the rural villages, in order to meet the long alongside oxen being tail boat for the tour to bathed in the river, whilst the second defile. The the women have a good journey time on the long natter, cooking breakfast tail boat to the second underneath their bam- defile took around 3 to boo huts. 3.5 hours, and the crew carried on supplies of Sailing on the river is fas- water, food, wine and

cinating with so much Ox & cart wash all in one go! beer, as the tour lasts for to see on both the land the whole day. The long and river: pagodas dot- tail boat which Rachel ted on the hillsides, floating bamboo houses on rafts, and Bill went on was very basic and tatty, but most farmers ploughing their crops using wooden ploughs likely one of the better ones! The crew had carried pulled by oxen, and boats laden with teak logs, sand, on cushions, life jackets and towels from the boat to rice – you name it! Ox and carts come down to the make the trip as comfortable as possible. The boat river to fill up empty barrels with water to take back had a roof and the gently river breeze made the jour- to the villages. River cruises are equipped to deal with ney cool and pleasant. It is worth bearing in mind that the river, and so most of the sun deck onboard will the engine of the long tail boat was very noisy, making be covered to give much needed share, and there are it hard to have a conversation without shouting. The usually fans to keep you cool, so you can appreciate long tail boat passes by tiny little islands, local boats the spectacular and fascinating views in comfort. and ferries, and the landscape is fairly flat. It took about 3.5 hours to get to start of the defile where the

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scenery changed dramatically, surrounded by lush jungle and high cliffs. There was an interesting land- mark, the head of a parrot which had been painted EXPLORE by seamen, acting as a warning to sailors to be careful when the water level rises to the beak. Pagodas BURMA NOW and Shrines were perched on rocks, although it is almost impossible to imagine how people access some Go to Burma to admire stunning temples and of these! The 2nd defile is south of Bhamo, Burma’s pagodas, to meet some of the friendliest people most northern state, Kachin, and the most dramatic in the world, to experience an entirely different of the three gorges. culture, and even to get close to elephants.

On Rachel and Bill’s tour to the 2nd Defile, the long tail Burma has and still is going through many boat turned around and headed to an island within changes since 2012, when sanctions were lift- the 2nd defile. When they got off, they had walk off ed. In the same year, tourist figures rose to over the boat via a single plank! The sandbank was steep, one million for the first time ever. Tourism is it was bit of a climb and it is important to take your targeted to reach 7.5 million by 2020. Presently time! There were a few little bamboo houses, and there are not enough hotels to meet demand what looked like a closed bar. There was a road with and prices are rising rapidly; one reason to go a bit of traffic, mainly motorbikes, many coming from before tourism explodes! It’s easy to lose count China, as the border isn’t that far away. It was much how many new river vessels are going to be easier coming down the bank onto the boat. The re- launched in 2016 and 2017; another reason to turn journey to the river cruise ship took just over two go now before the river is swamped with lots of hours, going downstream. tourist boats. However, a good niche river oper- ator should always be able to take you to visit When cruising along the Irrawaddy, you may also no- villages which are more off-the-beaten-track; tice a lot of sandbanks, which are sometimes hit by certainly at the moment anyway. river vessels! At places where the water level is very Some of the river operators which currently of- low, it will be continually monitored by a pilot with a fer sailings on the Irrawaddy include: long measuring stick. When Rachel and Bill were sail- Pandaw ing to Mingun, the ship picked up fifteen pilots on the upstream journey, each pilot having an in-depth Scenic knowledge of their patch of the river. CruiseCo – on Rachel’s 2015 trip, she cruised on Cruiseco Explorer Pilots are not the only guides for river vessels down APT the Irrawaddy; you may be lucky enough to spot Ir- AmaWaterways rawaddy dolphins! These are an interesting type of dolphin and, unlike dolphins from other Southeast Belmond – on Rachel’s 2010 trip, she cruised Asian countries, they are famous for helping the local on the Road to Mandalay fishermen. When fishermen trace the dolphins, they Avalon Waterways tap of the side of their small boats with a wooden stick Viking River Cruises as a signal, followed by softly rustling the water with Tauck an oar. The rustling of the water convinces the dol- Tah tah! phins that they are not their enemies, and they work to catch fish together. Sadly, there are only 72 dolphins recorded in the Irrawaddy.

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