A Story of Provence

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Alpilles Maussane-les-Alpilles, A story of Provence Luberon Rustrel, The Legacy of the Ochre Miners Pays d’Aix Eguilles, A stroll through the heart of Provence Pays Salonais Salon de Provence, For the transhumant shepherd, fulfillment is out there … N° 3 - 2014 - Provence - 40 000 copies - Free Provence | Traditional Fare | Traditional Provençal markets

If there is one thing that the Alpilles, the Aix region, the Luberon and the Salon region all have in common it’s the weekly market; virtually every town and village has a morning market. Local fruit and vegetables, traditional crafts, olive oil, honey … the fare on every stand more mouth-watering than the last. Make a point of visiting one!

By Anne-Sophie Sourd

Where to find the main markets:

Monday morning: Friday morning: Luberon: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris, Velleron Luberon: Bonnieux, Cavaillon, Lourmarin, Lagnes Alpilles: Fontvieille, Saint-Etienne du Grès Alpilles: Barbentane, Eygalières, Eyragues, Fontvieille, Aix region: Les Milles, Luynes Graveson, Saint-Andiol Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, Eguilles, Lambesc Tuesday morning: Salon region: Eyguières, Mallemort, Salon de Provence Luberon: Cucuron, Gordes, Lacoste Alpilles: Cabannes, Rognonas, Tarascon Saturday morning: resh fruit and vegetables as far as the eye can see. Being dependent Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, Eguilles Luberon: Apt, Cheval Blanc, Le Thor, Ménerbes, Oppède, Petit Palais on the changing seasons and harvests, Producers on Provençal mar- Salon region: Alleins, Eyguières Alpilles: Cabannes, Saint-Rémy de Provence kets sell what they gathered that morning – produce that looks as Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, Venelles good as it tastes … Melons, apricots, peaches, nectarines … let- Wednesday morning: Salon region: Salon de Provence, Charleval, Miramas F tuce, tomatoes, zucchini, eggplant, bell peppers, onions, garlic, shallots … Luberon: Le Thor, Gargas all the basic elements for Provençal cooking. Visit the butcher’s stand where Alpilles: Mollégès, Mouriès, Orgon, Saint-Rémy de Provence Sunday morning: they sell chickens roasted to perfection. Stop at the fishmonger’s too and Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, Meyrargues Luberon: L’Isle sur la Sorgue, Maubec, Coustellet see vociferous salesmen of Mediterranean fish. Colors, aromas, the whole Salon region: Mallemort, Salon de Provence Alpilles: Châteaurenard atmosphere is an experience … There is nothing quite like a market to awa- Aix region: Jouque, Aix-en-Provence, Vitrolles, Meyrargues ken your senses because there is just so much to take in! Arts and crafts, Thursday morning: Salon region: Pélissanne, Salon de Provence fine fare - all of the Provençal customs and traditions congregate on town Luberon: L’Isle sur la Sorgue, Ménerbes, Robion, Roussillon and village squares as with the market on Wednesday mornings in Salon Alpilles: Aureille, Maillane, Maussane les Alpilles, Noves de Provence or the one in Saint-Rémy, also on Wednesdays. There is a major Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, La Roque d’Anthéron market in Aix-en-Provence on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays on the Place Salon region: Sénas Verdun and the Place Prêcheur and the lesser known, but nevertheless gourmet, market of the Petit Palais every Saturday morning.

SUMMER IN PROVENCE Editorial By Rémi Lacassin Directeur de la publication, gérant : Nicolas Coissard Rédacteurs : Anne-Sophie Sourd, Eric Morichaud, Rémi Lacassin Be happy Traduction : Irene Chalmers Preire Crédits photos : X Impression : Rotimpres Since last fall, it’s been the sound of music everywhere … from Los Angeles to Brussels, via Berlin, Sydney and London. And we’ve all heard it - “Happy”, Pha- Rédaction-Publicité : 06 09 98 67 49 - 06 63 75 06 96 rell Williams’ worldwide hit. France, and in our case Provence, has also been stir- Publicité et communication : red to sing and dance to this cheerful melody. It’s an exhilarating air that echoes Béatrice Bettinelli, Le Journal des Alpilles : www.journaldesalpilles.fr like a song of praise to the sun, to the simple pleasures of daily life in our excep- Nadine Lefebvre Marseille, Le Journal du Luberon : www.journalduluberon.fr tional region: a stroll through a market, a visit to a monument, an outdoor concert, Lionel Matteoda, Le journal du Pays Salonais : www.journaldupayssalonais.fr a meal with all the colors and flavors of the South … A way of life that can be Lionel Matteoda, Le Journal des Aixois : www.journaldesaixois.fr observed from the Alpilles to Aix-en-Provence, from Salon to the Luberon, all authentic regions worth visiting. So, this summer, welcome to Provence and, more than 44, rue Lafayette - 13 300 Salon de Provence sont édités par la SARL de presse Aurélia Editions, au capital de 1500 euros. ever, “Don’t worry, be happy!” RCS B 419 512 918 RL

2 Provence in the movies

The biggest stars in the world are not often wrong about these things and it isn’t for nothing that some, like Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, have decided to live here. We have some legendary places here that inspire creativeness. Some of the greatest painters have caught the image of Provence on canvas just as some of the greatest directors, fascinated by the scenery have captured Provence in pictures and used it as a setting. Movies crazy about Provence …

By Anne-Sophie Sourd

MOVIES FILMED IN THE LUBERON The most symbolic film shot in the Luberon is, without contest, Ridley Scott’s “A Good Year”. For three months, he filmed in Oppède, Ménerbes, Lacoste, Bonnieux, and Avignon.

Another somewhat curious movie made in the Luberon was Steve Bendelack’s “Mr Bean’s holiday”. The adventures of one of the more famous English characters were filmed in Cavaillon, Avignon, Oppè- de, Gordes, and Apt.

MOVIES FILMED IN THE ALPILLES John Frankenheimer’s “Ronin” (1988) was filmed partly in the Alpilles, in Les Baux de Provence to be precise. The leading actor, Robert De Niro, also had Arles and several towns in the Alpes Maritimes for his working environment. “The Lion in Winter” (1968) was partly filmed at the Abbaye de Mont- majour near Tarascon. It was a British movie that received 7 Oscar nomi- nations and won three awards: Best Actress for Katharine Hepburn, Best Adapted Screenplay for James Goldman and Best Music Score for John Barry.

MOVIES FILMED IN THE SALON REGION The best known movie to have been shot here is Dany Boon’s “Bienve- nue chez les ch’tis”, remade in Italy as “Bienvenuti al sud”. Will Smith bought the film rights and intends to make an American version quite soon. It was partly shot in Salon de Provence, the starting point of the move before moving to the north of France.

MOVIES FILMED IN THE AIX REGION TThe famous opening scene in “The Transporter” was entirely set in the rue Pierre et Marie Curie in Aix-en-Provence. This Franco-American movie tells of the adventures of former special agent Franck Mar- tin (Jason Statham), in some truly exceptional settings.

“The Statement” (2004) was partially filmed in Aix-en-Proven- ce. An adaptation of the novel by Brian Moore, it was inspired by the Paul Touvier affair and relates some remarkable historical facts.

3 Alpilles | Towns and villages |

[5]

[6] [12] [8] [10] [11] [13] [3]

[7] 1 Les Baux de Provence Due to the value and diversity of its heritage, the quality of its [1] environment and urban planning, Les Baux de Provence is a member of a very elite club – “The Loveliest Villages in France”. Though Les Baux [4] [2] is already well known worldwide, promoting their heritage is still the town’s main objective. [9] 2 Maussane-les-Alpilles In the heart of the Parc Naturel Régional des Alpilles, the Vallée des Baux is home to Maussane-les-Alpilles, a village with around 2000 inhabitants. Within this extremely tourist-oriented region, Maussane-les-Alpilles has retained a certain authenticity with its olive Saintes-Marie groves, monuments and traditional festivities. de-la-Mer 3 Saint-Rémy de Provence Saint-Rémy is the epitome of the Provençal way of life: good food, local produce, olive oil, vineyards, arts and crafts, magnificent locations painted by Van Gogh, a Roman archeological site, traditions, festivals … 12 Maillane 10 Eyragues It’s impossible to talk about Maillane, the soul of Provence, without 4 Fontvieille Eyrargues is a typical peaceful Provençal village. You can’t miss the huge mentioning its most important feature – it was birthplace to the poet The village of Fontvieille offers an exceptional quality of life combining village square with its tall plane trees giving shadow in summer. This Fédéric Mistral. By choosing to spend his entire life there the winner modernity, authenticity, and tradition at the gates of the la Vallée-des- is where the heart of Eyrargues beats … This is where you do your of the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1904 made Maillane the cultural Baux where part of the 30 000 hectares of Alpilles pineforest and shopping. This is where the market is held every Friday morning. capital of Provence and started the revival of the Provencal language brushland is situated. Given its ideal location, Fontvieille is the perfect On festive holidays, the square comes alive, the terraces become noisy, and culture. With an agricultural past in common with the nearby starting point to visit the villages in this wonderful part of Provence, the atmosphere is friendly and there is good humor all round. villages, Maillane aims to remain true to its image which has always immortalized by Alphonse Daudet in “Letters from my Windmill”. been its strength. Life there is punctuated with traditional festivities. 11 Mollégès 5 Barbentane Mollégès is situated in the “golden triangle” between the Rhône, the 13 Tarascon Hemmed in between two natural barriers, the commune is rich in Alpilles and the Durance. The village is a little out-of-the-way and offers ancient monuments and covers an area of 2713 hectares, 1200 hectares a calm and pleasant rural setting. Why not take a few relaxing moments Whether in the town or out and about, let yourself be tempted by of which are Mediterranean forest. to visit the old town center, the remains of the 13th century abbey, the charms of short historic tours and discover the local heritage and the 11th century chapel in the cemetery, the monument raised in 1989 traditions a little differently. This is a great way to see the sights 6 Graveson in honor of a draft horse … and perhaps stroll or cycle through of Tarascon, a town that has considerable evidence of all the main Welcome to a village of painters and pleasure … The location of the country pathways. architectural periods, from the Middle Ages to the 20th century, and the village, between Arles and Avignon, makes Graveson an unavoidable to enjoy the natural environment of the surrounding area around destination, a gateway between the Camargue and the Alpilles. La Montagnette, at the end of the Alpilles. Graveson is a holiday resort where the emphasis is more on quality than quantity; it is the crossroads where Provençal history and culture meet. This list is not exhaustive. Do not hesitate to consult our website, www.journaldesalpilles.fr, to discover all the wealth of our heritage. 7 Eygalières Looking down from the top of a rock over charming countryside that stretches to the horizon, where olive groves cover the plain and with the Alpilles as a backdrop, every path and every road opens up onto a new view. A few minutes from the village, the Chapelle Saint-Sixte is the proudly maintained symbol of the spiritual past of rural Provence. 8 Saint-Andiol Saint-Andiol has a privileged location in the heart of Provence, in the Durance plain, only a stone’s throw from the Alpilles… The region is rural and agricultural (fertile land, irrigation, trees). It is a place of natural beauty - a natural environment, outstanding sites (the castle park, countryside, prairies, irrigation, cypress hedges, the Durance River flood plain, furrows of pebbles …). 9 Aureille In the heart of the Alpilles beneath the highest point, the Signal des Opiès, the village of Aureille (population 1500) is situated on the southern side of the Alpilles facing the Plaine de la Crau. The village is a little off the beaten tourist tracks and has preserved the character of a Provençal village. The slow but controlled evolution of its population has strongly affected the preservation of its identity generating a feeling of hospitality and a strong sense of solidarity.

4 communiqué communiqué Saint-Rémy | Hotel Restaurant | Maussane-les-Alpilles | Provençal cuisine | At the Château des Alpilles, the chef Mathias Jean Martin blends savory delights Bettinger celebrates his 20th anniversary with hints of sweetness

n a wonderful environment, surrounded by a luxu- or you wish to reside in the “Mas de Cyprés” with he lentil and vegetable rious garden lies a bourgeois 19th century home. its suites and family rooms, this 5-star hotel soups have just been put I“Welcome to the Château des Alpilles”, F r a n ç o i - spoils you with a remarkably attentive service. Taway and Jean Martin is now se Bon and Catherine Rollin wish you a memorable In the middle of the verdant park with a special atmos- ready with new summer recipes holiday in their beautiful house. Whether you stay phere created by centennial trees and rare scents, that can only be found in his bou- in the “Maison de Maître”, where the contemporary it feels natural to extend the visit with an exqui- tique in Maussane-les-Alpilles. furnishing blends wonderfully with the restored decor, site lunch or dinner. Eggplant gratin with béchamel In the kitchen, the chef Mathias Bettinger, who sauce and cream of eggplant has been loyal to the hotel for 20 years, and spread are the latest savory new- the sous chef Xavier Pommer enjoy preparing comers. These recipes are of Pro- colorful and delicious dishes to excite your taste vençal inspiration and now join buds. the ranks alongside honeyed ratatouille and etc.) you can now fill your basket with fruit gra- From June 15th to September 15th the lunch will Gran’Draille (puréed grossane olives), ideal for adding tins: apple-peach-candied fruit, and apple and fig. be served on the beautiful terrace next to the to omelets and puréed vegetables. There are These original preparations (just perfect for pool for insiders and with reservation only. many products here in this Alpilles village and none crumbles and tarts) can only be found here in the Definitely, the Château des Alpilles is a chic can be found anywhere else! In full barbecue sea- boutique. Sweet notes to meet the desires of a fai- and elegant address that should not be mis- son, Jean Martin’s spreads are an asset on your table thful clientele that is already hooked. And what bet- sed. or in your picnic basket for all to enjoy. The com- ter way to serve these gourmet treasures than in pany dates from 1920 and has something for all tastes: the “Laurent Barbier” range of utensils and bowls LE CHÂTEAU DES ALPILLES★★★★★ cream of dried tomatoes, mild anchoïade, red or in warm-colored olive wood. The range is a veri- Hotel - Restaurant green pesto, artichoke cream, tapenades, bell pep- table rainbow that will brighten your table and blend Route du Rougadou per cream … for an appetizing stroll through the marvelously with delicacies by Jean Martin. 13210 Saint-Rémy de Provence land of sunshine with products made from simple, Tel : 04 90 92 03 33 fresh produce. Whether for drinks with friends, a JEAN MARTIN www.chateaudesalpilles.com family meal, or a professional seminar, the occa- 9, rue C. Rieu - 13520 Maussane-les-Alpilles sions are numerous for you to enjoy these entire- Tel.: 04 90 54 34 63 - [email protected] Restaurant open for lunch and dinner upon ly artisanal preparations that can be found in the www.jeanmartin.fr - facebook.com/jeanmartin.fr reservation only, closed Open from Monday to Saturday from 9.30 am on Wednesdays. In July and August boutique. And sampling them is the best way to to 12.30 pm and from 2.30 pm to 7 pm. open for lunch every day. devise something tasty to go with drinks. Lunch à la carte, dinner à la carte Besides his Provençal delicatessen items Special offers all year round both in the boutique or menu at 48 €. (honey, flavored vinegars, cordials, preserves, THE + and the e-boutique if you sign up for the newsletter

5 Maussane-les-Alpilles | Discovery | A story of Provence

Situated between the Alpilles and the Crau plain, Maussane-les-Alpilles welcomes you to another, gentler, way of life. The site was hewn by time and shaped by both passing popula- tions and a local economy that is tightly bound to Mother Nature. Let’s take a closer look …

By Eric Morichaud

n the beginning was Thetis, also known as the primordial sea, mother of all the oceans who left behind white limestone that would be the very foundation of Provence, from the Alpilles Ito the Crau plain. Through the ages, a water-logged land that was nourished by sediment and where life could develop slowly emerged … and much, much later, the first people settled there. So Maussane was in fishing country? That’s a thought that would certainly surprise the casual visitor but not those who had heard about the richness of the “Marais des Baux” from their forefa- thers. It was a stretch of wetlands that disappeared in the last third of the 19th century (drained for agricultural and pasturung purposes) although it remains present in the subsoil. The water supply has been ensured since 1914 by an irrigation canal (dug on the orders of the French ambas- sador Paul Revoil) and by numerous little streams that flow down from the Alpilles all year round.

Nowadays, Maussane-les-Alpilles is more of a popular vacation place, a place where you pass through, a place that has maintained its rural vocation. Basically, this boils down to PDO Vallée des Baux olive oil derived from salonenque, béruguette, grossane and verdale varieties. Of the many mills that were in service at the end of the 19th century only two remain and are proud of their expertise dating back to the days of the Pax Romana. In addition, the region grows grapes, notably for the vin de pays des Alpilles and counts many orchards. Finally, there is also grain production; the days of past glory are still celebrated by the revival of Saint Eloi’s Day (patron saint of farmers) and his Carreto Ramado (a cart strewn with leaves), a procession that is as impressive as it is high in color going through the village streets to the sound of tambourines.

Maussane is a tranquil, serene place too, especially when the wind dies down. This you will discover if you leave your car near the lush green Espace Agora Alpilles park that is home to a remarkable map of France in dressed stone. The map is as much a stone tribute to the diversity of our land as to the skills of the generations of craftsmen and sculptors who responsible for our national legacy.

Then head for Vieux Maussane, the historical center of the village until 1754 when the Eglise Sain- te-Croix was consecrated; the church was financed by donations from Joseph de Laugier de Mon- blan. As you cross the older part of the town, the wash house, the Fontaine du Planet, and a number of well-preserved historic houses and the Notre Dame de Piété walls, give an impression of life in bygone days and village history. Return via the back streets and passageways that pass by the wash house inaugurated in the time of Napoléon III and designed by the architect Louis Astruc, till you come to the main village square. Here, in front of the Eglise Sainte-Croix, the sculptures of the Fontaine des Quatre Saisons rise in tribute to water, the source of life. The architectural heritage is both opulent and discreet and should be savored slowly, so take your time.

Continue your walk around the village, perhaps taking a path heading up into the hills or another along the Via Aurelia and see the milestones that show the importance of this road between Latium, Gaul and Hispania for the Roman world. History and archeology lovers will no doubt explore the Castellas hill, a onetime oppidum and place of worship.

Ancient times and the accompanying remains and relics were succeeded by the Middle Ages which, for some authors, implies that there was a stronghold in Maussane. This is a concept to handle with care because no remains have ever been of such a place. The period was, however, strongly influenced by the lords of Les Baux and their castle, particularly during power struggles, succes- sions, disputes, and wars. Religious unrest under the Ancien Régime, the arrival of the black death, and then the troubles that came with the revolution and the Reign of Terror, formed a bleak period for Maussane as for the whole Baux valley.

Much later, when the railroad arrived, Maussane developed a lease of industrial life on a human scale while keeping its initial agricultural purpose.

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION, CONTACT: Maussane-les-Alpilles Maison du Tourisme Av. des Alpilles Tel.: 04 90 54 33 60 [email protected] Open every day from 9.30 am to 2.30 pm.

6 communiqué communiqué Maussane | Olive oil mill | Saint-Rémy de Provence | Security | 1924 - 2014: 90th anniversary PMS Provence, video surveillance at Moulin Cornille you can count on

ummer is just around the corner and the arri- cole de la Vallée des Baux”, the mill (150 000 liters MS Provence is a family business that specializes val of the “Fruité noir Cornille” (a protected brand of olive oil every year) continues the fine tradition in the protection of people and property; repai- Sname) in a collector bottle is a big event in of its “fruité noir” with its notes of cooked, slight- Pring and maintaining alarm systems, fire alarms, Maussane-les-Alpilles. So as to fittingly celebra- ly peppery artichoke, sourdough bread, black access control, computer networks and video sur- te the 90th anniversary of the “Coopérative Oléi- olives (or cocoa), fresh mushrooms, truffles… Subt- veillance. Their technicians can connect your com- le aromas that Moulin Cornille is renowned for and puter or your smart phone to a camera installed Events this summer that are brought out by fermenting the olives for in your home so you can keep an eye on it at all June, Saturday 28th, 9.45 am - noon: culinary 3 or 4 days. times. All you have to do is connect the alarm when discovery + lunch + visit of the mill. Contact you leave and everything else is automatic. This is MOULIN CORNILLE an ideal solution if you have a second residence, d’Hélène Riberpray (nutritionist) at 0666227025 Rue Charloun Rieu - 13520 Maussane les Alpilles if you are often on the road, or if the connection to register (15€ per person); 11.30 am: conference Tel.: 04 90 54 32 37 - www.moulin-cornille.com would reassure an older or disabled person. It pro- on the benefits of olive oil by Elsa Jomain Facebook.com/moulin.jeanmariecornille vides a comforting presence even when you are far With secure data transmission and recording, (beauty therapist); 1.30 pm-3.30 pm: olive-oil Open from Monday to Saturday from 9.30 am away. Given their expertise, availability (the watching over your home from afar has never been based relaxing beauty treatment (reservation to 7 pm and on Sundays from 2.30 pm to 7 pm. Free guided tours on Tuesdays and Thursdays agents give the client their cell phone number after so easy. As PMS’ slogan says, “our proximity is your at the mill); 2 pm-5 pm: recreation of a Roman at 11 am including tasting and a film completing installation), their affordable rates, PMS security”. herbalist's shop and of a thermopolium (Roman on the harvest. Provence seems an obvious choice. shop) by Véronique Autheman. The company is on the cutting edge of security engi- July, Wednesday 9th (10 am-noon): an authentic neering and can provide you with a system that fits aïoli by Jack Sautel, mayor of Maussane; Wednes- your needs with several display modes, night vie- day 16th (10 am-noon): tasting of preserves with wing, etc. Avenue du 19 mars 1962 Mr Camous; Wednesday 23th (10 am-noon): (at the corner of bd Albert Schweitzer) melon from the valley of Les Baux with Mrs 13210 Saint-Rémy de Provence Favier; Wednesday 30th (10 am-noon): skin care Tel.: 04 90 92 20 90 with olive oil (reservation only). Email: [email protected] August, Wednesday 6th (10 am-noon, open Web site: www.pmsprovence.fr Open from Monday to Friday house): demonstration of articles made of olive from 9 am to noon and from 2pm to 6 pm. wood with “Grain d’Olive” and a visit of the olive Open on Saturdays from 9 am to noon. groves; Wednesday 20 th(10 am-noon): culinary All 5 oils produced by the mill are available Present in the Alpilles, the Luberon and beyond for family homes, businesses, institutions discovery with Mr Valadier (chef). THE + in 25cl (and larger) canisters THE + and associations

7 The top | clichés | about Provence

Life being easy-going in Provence, there are a number of clichés on the subject. All of them have an origin, some are based on truth, and others are closer to stereotypes than to reality. Here is a glimpse of some of the idiosyncrasies that go to make up the charm of Provence.

By Anne-Sophie Sourd

Siesta Speaking “My favorite sport is siesta” - Yves Mirande with your hands This is one of the most common sayings you hear in Pro- "Man is the wisest of animals vence. So after hearing it how can you say that the locals because he has hands” - Anaxagoras don’t nap every day? The term “siesta” comes down to us from the Romans and This is particularly true of our Italian was the word they used for the rest they took after lunch. neighbors but it’s also true that, here Fairly common in our region, it was intended for workers in the South, words are often accompanied who got up early and who, in the heat of the day, took advantage of the lunchti- by hand movements. It’s a fact that, me pause to recharge their batteries. It’s becoming less and less common through to emphasize what they’re saying (or what they’ve done), manual punctuation lack of time even though certain scientists vaunt the advantages of a siesta comes naturally to the locals. during the day because, apparently, it can increase your productivity by 20%.

Apéritif Accent “Your accent isn’t in your mouth it’s in your listeners’ ears!” “I never go to mass because it’s at aperitif time” - Georges Courteline Plume Latraverse The aperitif is, first and foremost, a moment of conviviality before mealtimes. The Marseille accent is melodious, a true extension of the In Provence, it is often accompanied by an anisette. The origins go back to ancient countryside and inhabitants. The words may get carried away times when the Romans took drinks (with or without alcohol) before their meals. and the French language a little mistreated but the accent In Provence, it is generally drunk in cafés or bars accompanied by peanuts or olives. warms discussions and animates conversations. An aperitif is intended to whet your appetite and is a moment of pleasure. The accent is exaggerated, forces on certain syllables, adds a few vowels here and there and accentuates the silent “e”. It is distinctive enough to be inimitable. Exaggeration “If God exists then he exaggerates” - George Brassens Local expressions

You often hear people say “he’s a real Marseillais, he’s exaggerating” or “you’ve been to “Vocabulary is a rich pasture of words” Marseille, haven’t you?” This is another cliché that is more or less comprehensible. Homer It’s a common belief that people from Marseille (and by extension, people from Provence) The vocabulary used in our region is quite distinct; in tend to stretch the truth of their statements when telling a story. For instance, if a Marseillais addition to the commonly-used words that come from the Provençal language, some expressions can tells you that he caught a fish that was 1 meter in length it is often likely that the fish only only be understood by the Provençal people them- measured 20 cm in reality. selves. For example, “avoir l’oeuf” is used for someone who has permanent aches and pains.

Pétanque “From world soccer champions to the local pétanque champion, every great sportsman will tell you what counts is taking part!”

Pétanque, also known as “boules” in Provence, originated here over 100 years ago. The continual success of this game is no doubt due to the simplicity of the rules and the conviviality of the game that brings together players of all ages and all levels. It can be played as singles or in teams of two or three. The goal is to throw the boule as close as possible to the small wooden ball. In Provence, virtually all villages and towns have their boules area and it is not uncommon to see tense games being played on summer afternoons. And if soccer is the sport that the south is fervent about, a game of pétanque traditionally remains a moment of sociability with your family or friends.

8 communiqué Arles | Farm machinery and parts - Repairs - Maintenance | A.S.S.E, a partner for agriculture and a specialist in organic agricultural equipment .S.S.E stands for Agri Servi- ce Sud-Est. Serge Berthomieu is the grandson of a farmer Aand the son of a leveling contractor and is now following in the family tradition of working in the business of land and agriculture. A.S.S.E. sells farm machinery, equipment, accessories, implements, spare parts and consumables from numerous well- known brands, supplies after sales service, and carries out repairs. A workshop for mechanics, electri- city, hydraulics plus a large stock of parts in the self-service shop allow the team of professionals to intervene rapidly and efficiently, and to advi- se their customers. “We have always been there for pro- landscapers, and local authorities solu- on wheels or tracks, that can be lated chassis option to optimize the fessionals in the agricultural world but tions with, for instance, their range equipped with all the necessary turning radius. we can also meet the needs for many of Antonio Carraro tractors, a reference implements.” Antonio Carraro, by A.S.S.E., provides non-professionals because agriculture in equipment for large green spaces And there are tractors mounted functional reliability and ease of use 26, avenue de la Libération - 13646 Arles is a very popular leisure activity par- and average culture areas. “Whether with a reversible driving position, a at the service of your land. Tel.: 04 90 93 49 84 - Port. 06 12 47 06 29 ticularly in the Alpilles, the Crau for mowing parks, viticulture, arbo- real boon for working safely in the [email protected] - www.agriservice.fr plain, and the Luberon, and you real- riculture, olive trees, brush clearance, best possible conditions even in Open from Monday to Friday from 8 am to noon and from 2 pm to ly need to work with the right equip- etc. our range can meet all possible needs. difficult terrain. Just the thing to seam- 6 pm. Saturdays by appointment. ment,” explains Serge Berthomieu. We have twenty models from 23 to 100 lessly go from towing an implement A.S.S.E. can offer private customers, hp with automatic hydrostatic gears, to driving it! There is also an articu- THE + A real specialist in your neighborhood. Repairs can be carried out at your home communiqué Saint-Rémy | Beds and Bed linen | Sweet dreams with Saint-Rémy Literie

aking over from M. Giovannetti (La Loubo), a rials to choose – knowing the ventilation condi- beds and bedding expert, Jean-Yves Guillon is tions of the house is also important,” points out Jean- Tmaintaining the tradition of local specialist ser- Yves who has a great variety of models to offer. With vices so that choosing your next bed is a pleasant a custom service for bedding, a selection of well- experience. By developing their line of accessories, known brands (Swissflex, Epeda, Bultex…) and Saint-Rémy Literie has expanded their high qua- a broad range of bed linen (pillows, comforters, lity offer of classic styles and contemporary prin- blankets, etc.), Saint-Rémy Literie may be only a ted fabrics. Equipped with their professional advi- small family business but they are outstanding! ce you can start looking for what suits you best whether springs, foam or latex … Because the choi- SAINT-RÉMY LITERIE 1, rue Albin Gilles – ZAC de la Gare ce of a mattress (up to 200 cm x 200 cm!) is cru- 13210 Saint-Rémy de Provence cial for resting both mind and body. Tel.: 04 90 92 13 85 Ventilation, comfort and support – the rule is simple www.aubonheurdudormeur-literie.com but needs to be respected for peaceful, rested mor- Open from Tuesday to Friday from 9 am to noon nings. “The air-tightness of the room and how much and from 2 pm to 6.30 pm. Open on Saturdays the person sweats will determine the type of mate- from 9 am to 4 pm.

THE + The range of articulated beds by Swissflex, the last word in mechanical and manual control

9 communiqué Eygalières | Restaurant - Pizzeria – Swimming pool | La Jasse: your feet in the water and your mind in the stars o you ever dream of a nice cool spot at the foot of the Alpilles? You can now take Dthat relaxing break beside a magnificent (entirely renovated) swimming pool at La Jasse, a stone's throw from the village of Eyga- lières. Why not have lunch, dinner or just spend a lazy day in this exceptional setting? Dolores will take care of you whether you prefer to lie comfortably in a recliner at the water's edge or seated on the terrace for a simple meal, burs- ting with flavor. With a varied menu to share with friends. The establish- etc. In other words, every excuse is (salad platters, grilled meats, pizzas, ment is also ideal for weddings, chris- a good one to go to La Jasse! slow-cooked dishes, pasta, etc.) and tenings, seminars, work committees, a dish of the day, Chef Shannon will tickle the taste buds of the whole fami- LA JASSE ly. This is particularly true for children Restaurant - Pizzeria - Swimming pool who have their own special menu: Route d’Orgon - 13810 Eygalières cordial, burger and fries or nuggets Tel.: 0432600416 - Mob : 0611355305 or pizza and two scoops of ice-cream. facebook.com/pages/Restaurant-Piscine-La-Jasse By opting for conviviality and qua- Fixed price & à la carte menus Swimming pool access is free lity (the terrace and the deck are made with lunch or dinner otherwise 10€ (including recliner and soft of teak), the new owners have crea- drink) - private car park - open all year round from 10 am to 8 pm. ted an outdoor place of well-being Pool parties and theme evenings (see the Facebook page THE + for the program)

communiqué Provence | Mets et Saveurs | Marie Lousada, an outstanding personal chef

cocktail buffet for 250 guests? An event for home and their kitchen.” “And their meal,” you might 80 friends and family members? A business be tempted to add, given that they only have to Alunch for 6? Marie Lousada, a personal chef, sit down and enjoy. has the experience and expertise for inventive recipes Marie encourages her clients to discuss the com- and pleasant occasions. “I do the shopping, I pre- position of the menus with her and enjoys impar- pare some of the things at home and then I go to ting her passion by getting them to taste seaso- my client’s place,” explains this chef who will tra- nal produce. “Sometimes a dish is more suited to vel from Montpellier to Marseille for her clients. “Once one client than to another. I take account of their there, begins a relationship of trust– I enter their personality, their tastes, and their origins too …” continues our sweet-and-savory brunch specialist. Marie Lousada starts the culinary advanture that is “Mets et Saveurs” several days before the event with local suppliers and notably at the farmers’ market in Coustellet. Her organization of the shopping is quite simple: for up to 8 guests, the client pays for the shopping plus the service cost. Beyond that, it is all inclu- ded in the cost of the menu (35 €, 45 €, 65 €). The personal chef can also supply one or more servers for 20 guests or more… Bon appétit !

METS ET SAVEURS, Marie Lousada, personal chef Tel.: 06 16 45 45 49 [email protected] and [email protected] Facebook.com/mets.saveurs http://mets-et-saveurs.overblog.com/

Marie works for both private THE + and corporate clients

10 communiqué Mouriès | Sale – Tasting – Visit | Le Moulin Saint-Michel, a passion for olive oil estled in the heart of the village, Moulin Saint-Michel is a veritable institution in NMouriès. It was set up in 1744 and has belonged to the Rossi family for three generations. Today, Lau- rent is the worthy successor to this line of millers. He and his sister, Sté- phanie, recently won a gold medal in the Concours Général Agricole in Paris for their AOC Provence oil. This is the 60th medal won by the mill that also offers a PDO Vallée des Baux, “la Fruité”, resulting from a blend of olives traditionally found around also carries items to brighten your home and your summer table with ima- Mouriès, as well as a single variety oil, ginative dinnerware and ornaments with a Provençal flavor. “la Picho”. You can really sense that traditions are alive and kicking when you visit the mill, by yourself or with a guide. And the tastefully decorated MOULIN SAINT-MICHEL boutique has a horde of 100% local treasures. 30, Cours Paul Revoil - 13890 Mouriès Besides their palette of four different olive oils (the PDO Vallée des Baux is GPS: 43° 69.0151’ - 4° 87.0913’ available in an opaque golden 50 cl bottle, ideal for travelling, and “la Frui- Tel.: 04 90 47 50 40 - www.moulinsaintmichel.com Open from Monday to Saturday from 9 am to noon and from 2 pm té” comes in 3- and 5-liter bag-in-box formats), Moulin Saint-Michel also to 6 pm. Open on Sundays from 10 am to 4 pm. sells savory delights and sweet treats. Guided tours (1 hour) on the mill history and with olive oil tasting The latest products are wines from Camargue, “Bière des Gardians” beers are on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 10.30 am. (made from black rice, white rice and red rice), and chocolate by Le Comp- Cost: 3 € - no charge for children. Advance booking is recommended. toir de Mathilde, joining up with local products: broken olives, picholine green olives, grossane black olives, genuine Marseille soap, etc. Moulin Saint-Michel Gift boxes that you can either buy ready-filled or fill with the THE + articles of your choice

11 Perched Villages in the | Luberon |

[11] [5]

[2] Roussillon [3] Cargas

[10] [4] [7] [8]

1 Ansouis [6] In the heart of the Pays d'Aigues, with both the Grand Luberon and the Duran- ce River on the horizon, this perched village is crowned by a thousand-year- [9] old castle. In the Middle Ages, Ansouis was in the perfect place to control the road between Aix-en-Provence and Apt. Today, this well-preserved vil- [1] lage still has the magnificent castle (former property of the Sabran family). To reach the castle, cross the square and follow the small streets of beautifully restored houses; some of these date as far back as the 15th and 17th centuries. 2 Gordes Gordes is proud to be one of the most beautiful villages in France, with paved streets winding between tall houses built on the very rock and clinging to the hillside in an atmosphere of history and legend. In the surrounding coun- 9 Lauris tryside, Gordes also has a view over the Village des Bories (curious round Lauris is a little known treasure in the Luberon and is well worth a visit. It dry-stone buildings), the abbaye de Sénanque in its lush green valley, the sits on a rocky hilltop overlooking the Durance valley and combines the charm Moulin des Bouillons, and the Palais Saint Firmin cellars. of a typical Provençal village with the energy of a young community that has all mod cons. Lauris is proud of its history and heritage and is the very 3 Roussillon image of what you’d expect from a Provençal village – fountains, shaded Here in Provence, between the Luberon and the Monts de Vaucluse, glows lanes, traditions. Roussillon in an ochre-colored light. It is classed as one of the most beautiful villages in France and is quite unique. It lies on the biggest deposit of 10 Oppède le Vieux ochre in the world and displays this in an extraordinary range of flamboyant Greatly marked by History with a capital H, Oppède-le-Vieux has weathe- colors. Strolling through the lanes and up and down steps, contemplating red the centuries and bears the traces of their passing. High on a crag, the the often simple and naturally beautiful houses, you cannot help but admi- remains of a Medaieval castle (“like a grenade that has exploded”) looks re the results of ancient art work. This is a place where man has merged into the abyss from the top of sheer cliffs that plunge into a breathtaking naturally into the magnificence of his surroundings. canyon. At the foot of the castle, a 360° panorama views the terraces of Ste-Cécile, landscaped gardens and in the distance Mont-Ventoux, the monts 4 Ménerbes de Vaucluse and, on the cliff side, the Luberon. High on a rocky peak overlooking Luberon vines and garrigues, the citadel and castle of Ménerbes watch over their neighbors. Within the village itself, 11 Murs the streets reveal a rich heritage - residences from the past, the town hall The first thing you notice when you arrive in the village is the restored cast- square with its 17th century belltower and belfry … As with many villages le, dating from the 15th century, which overlooks Murs. Then, as you walk in the Luberon, Ménerbes attracted a number of famous artists such as Picas- through the streets, beside the church is the birthplace of Henry 4th’s famous so who had a house here. brother-in-arms, Crillon. The house goes back to the 13th century and has been converted into a small prehistory museum. You could also take a stroll 5 Venasque 7 Lacoste along the "Mur de la Peste" (the plague wall), an astonishing 25 km long The story of Venasque can be told via the three main monuments, the ram- Take a walk through the narrow streets steeped in history and admire the dry stone wall that was built in 1721 to protect the Comtat Venaissin from parts, the church and the baptistry. At the foot of Mont Ventoux, hanging remains of the Marquis de Sade’s castle (restored by designer Pierre Car- the outbreak of the plague that arrived in Marseille by boat. on to a crag that overlooks vines, garrigues and cherry trees, are the remains din), the mediaeval remains and the stone houses. Right in the heart of of the former mediaeval village, the ramparts and three Saracen towers. the Parc Naturel Régional du Luberon, Lacoste has a lot to offer – hiking In the heart of the Provençal village are steep streets, houses of honey-colo- in the Forêt des Cèdres, cycling routes, events, art galleries, wine tasting red stone, the Cathedral Church of Notre-Dame and a magnificent baptis- … Despite being quite cosmopolitan the village maintains local traditions tery dating from the 11th century. and the locals have welcomed and integrated numerous artists and sculptors. 6 Lourmarin Lourmarin is situated at the lower end of the channel carved into the Lube- 8 Bonnieux ron by the Aiquebrun, in a setting of vineyards and olive groves. Streets bor- This village is known for its two churches, its ramparts, its former town hall dered by fountains wind their way around the Castellas and a charming Roma- (the Hôtel de Rouvil), its charming streets and numerous old buildings, all nesque church to lead you to the magnificent castle. The castle was built of which give Bonnieux quite a unique cachet. Besides this, in the plain is in the 15th century by the d’Agoult family and houses a rich collection of the Pont Julien, built in the Augustan era (27 BC – 14 AD) on the Domi- furniture and works of art. The village attracted many artists including Henri tian Way (known as "camin roumieù" in Provençal) – and on the hilltop, Bosco and Albert Camus, both buried in the small cemetery. the Forêt des Cèdres, a cool spot in summer. In short, it is a very varied loca- For further information contact the tourist information bureau - Tel: 04 90 tion from both a natural and a historical point of view. 68 10 77

12 communiqué Gargas | Hotel ***** Restaurants | Tempting times at La Coquillade

s the summer season approaches, La Coquillade reveals their delightful new Amenu, full of festive delights and subtle aromas. In an authentic Provençal village, this superlative wine tourism hotel***** complex extends a cordial epicurean invitation to their three restaurants. flavors and freshness of the passing their own area at La Coquillade). Also Le Gourmet for creations by Miche- seasons expressed in exceptional but available is a relaxation area and two lin-starred chef Christophe Renaud different culinary atmospheres. swimming pools. There are many ways and pasty chef René Solnon (a gas- It is a haven of peace in the Luberon; of enjoying your time here and they tronomical restaurant open only in a starting point for exploring the coun- are all stylish. Whether you are visi- the evening from Tuesday to Sunday), tryside, walks in the vines, cycling on ting for a meal or a stay, whatever Le Bistrot and its Jardin dans les Vignes, or off roads with top-end cycles from the season, time at La Coquillade will and Il Ristorante with its new wood- their partner BMC cycles (BMC have always be gourmet time for you. smoke oven, for the sun-drenched flavors of Italy with pizza, pasta and other LA COQUILLADE HOTEL ***** RESTAURANTS specialties (from 28th May to 28th Relais & Châteaux. Michelin-starred restaurant, bistrot September, open at lunchtime and Access for persons of reduced mobility - Visitors car park in the evenings in July and August La Coquillade – 84400 Gargas - Tel.: +33(0)490 74 71 71 though closed on Tuesdays). E-mail: [email protected] - Website: www.coquillade.fr La Coquillade has rooms, suites, GPS: 043° 52.81' N, 005° 19.02' E and restaurants, the comfort and recep- tion of a prestigious environment, the THE + Aureto winery, wine tasting

communiqué Ménerbes | La Vie est Belle Rue de la Fontaine | Antiques, Modern articles and Bazaar chic

t seems incredibly obvious to the casual visitor who crosses the threshold. Here, in the heart of Menerbes, life is decidedly Igood in Rue de la Fontaine. For, as the connois- seur that he is, the showman of countless lives, Bernard Guillon shares the many eccentric worlds that he so loves with us. It is a finely balan- ced and joyous bazaar chic blend of antiques, modern articles, unbridled contemporary creations, baroque, rustic, and resolutely futuristic elements that we find. Workshop furniture, industrial or Scandinavian vintage, lights, paintings, sculptures, sofas, reading lamps, coffee tables, bureau, chairs, armchairs uphol- stered by Grace Rondier… Here, the genui-

ne article turns out to be of great quality, carefully cared for as it needs, unearthed here and there in the course of encounters, of journeys. Here, in La Vie est aussi Belle rue de la Fontaine, can also be found works by some of the most unusual talents in contemporary design. A presentation in honor of talent from the south of France, Catherine Gontier for instance, gives rise to some quite unexpected results with wire modeling. Emm La Boheme, a specialist in lampshades, works with old sheet music for origami creations. Philippe Defferre and his Log Pods; log carriers transformed into works of art by associating reinforcing steel and cement. Browsing from object to object, from line to texture, from color to material, from discovery to astonishment, it is quite certain that we will all be surprised by the wind-swept hare or the crowned lamb, both born of paper and resin in artist Lieve’s deft fingers … and not forgetting Bernard Serra’s textile creations and the original fragrances by La Manufacture des Châteaux. LA VIE EST BELLE RUE DE LA FONTAINE Finally, life is good in Rue de la Fontaine, because of chance meetings with a diversity of emotions causing 84560 Ménerbes - Cell: 06 19 91 37 91 you to be instantly smitten with an item, whether a contemporary creation, an original piece of furniture Email: [email protected] or a tasteful ornament. Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 10.30 am to 7 pm.

13 'Illa de Sorga, l'Illo de Sorgo...The casual traveller is unlikely to be concerned by the debate of whether the classic Provençal or Mistral’s Provençal naming From yesteryear to today, Lof one of the loveliest sites in Provence is right. Whe- ther you’re coming from Cavaillon, Avignon, or Mont Ven- toux through the Vallee du Cavalon, the view is just as brea- th-taking. You can’t miss the many branches of the Sorgue, an island in the Sorgue the gardens, the embankment that surrounds the old town, the fourteen mill wheels still standing, the signs of trades from another era - these are all symbols that are now carefully preserved. Here a walkway, there a narrow bridge, a surprising though pleasant game of leap-frog leads you over the river to the heart of L’Isle sur la Sorgue. Alleys, small squares, passageways, draw you in to explore a busy and animated maze. From shaded terraces to fragrant, bright- ly colored shops, antique signs of bygone trades stand out on gables and facades, stones and plasterwork. Little by little, and before you know it, it’s time to go back up the Sorgue and step back in time …

Though the remains of the nearby castrum at Velorgues indicates habitation in Gallo-Roman times, L’Isle sur la Sorgue took on its full importance first under the Counts of Pro- vence and then later under the Counts of Toulouse and the Avignon Popes who fortified the place, offering asylum to the inhabitants of nearby village in the darkest hours of religious unrest. Nowadays, among the vestiges of the Midd- le Ages, stands the sole relic of the fortifications, the Tour Boutin (a square tower), located in the Place de la Liber- té. Other monuments evoke life in the town down through the ages. A Cardinal’s house, town residences, the Tour d’Argent island, the Collégiale Notre-Dame des Anges, the Couvent des Cordeliers, the Couvent des Minimes, the Couvent des Capucins, the Couvent des Ursu- lines and numerous small chapels in various stages of preservation are evidence of the weight of religious influen- ce in former times. There are also a certain number of references to Judaism, reminders of the place held in certain times by a Jewish community that was very active in the life and development of the town.

The population of the Isle sur la Sorgue (definitive name as from 18th August 1890) was an active community, making good use of the potential of the Sorgue River primarily for the fishing industry, mainly for crayfish (a manna which died out after an epidemic of crayfish plague in 1884), which supported a large number of families until the 19th century. Water again was at the origin of the developing and later flourishing industries of silk spinning, paper manufacture, fabric dye, milling … There were at least 70 waterw- L'Isle sur la Sorgue is an island, or rather several islands, in the Sorgue, heels in use in the 19th century. Nowadays, the town is embraced by clear water emerging from the depths of the rock. as well-known for its tourist industry as for the pleasant It is a symbolic place in the Luberon joined by another waterway, way of life in the surrounding countryside, sculpted by water and agriculture. Since the Sixties, l’Isle sur la Sorgue has merry and bright, in summer time. also been renowned as an indisputable hub for antiques, Let’s drift towards the local “Venice” and explore … second-hand goods and art galleries, taking third place in Europe behind Saint-Ouen and London.

To linger in l’Isle sur la Sorgue is to rub shoulders with the old and the new with ease, to take the time to explore, to gaze around as you walk and observe, question, savor the moment … perhaps with your feet in the cool waters.

Things to see and do...

The Musée Campredon-Centre d'Art, the Musée de la Poupée et du Jouet Ancien, the Musée de l'Ecole d'Autrefois, the Maison Biehn. The Festival de la Sorgue in July The Pêche d'Antan organized by the Confrérie des Pescaïres Lilen demonstrating old-fashioned fishing techniques. The Corso nautique on the last weekend in July. The floating market on the first Sunday in August, where merchants in their traditional, flat-bottomed boats selling their produce to buyers on the banks of the river. Horse-racing in July and August. The Foire Internationale Brocante & Antiquités, Foire Internationale d’Art contemporain, Foire Internationale du Livre Ancien FILA (Easter and 15th August). Tourist information website: www.oti-delasorgue.fr

14 communiqué Luberon | Wine estate – Wine tourism | Aureto – wines of tradition

n the heart of the Luberon, on the D900 between Goult and Apt, can be of the warehouse on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at 6 pm (groups found the Aureto wine estate, one of the emblematic producers in the by appointment) are also possible. Discover Aureto wines at wine and food Iregion. A land of vines and passion expressed in PDO Luberon and Ven- pairing evenings at La Coquillade (there toux wines. A winery, a sales area, and a wine warehouse allow aficiona- is a "pink" evening on 4th July and a dos to discover traditionally produced red, rosé and white vintages. You can "red" evening on 31st October). explore Domaine Aureto by yourself (with an explanatory booklet) or with a guide along the Sentier Vigneron (on Wednesday mornings). Guided tours NEW LUNCHTIME IDEA AT THE AURETO CELLAR

The Caravane, STREET CANTEEN SANDWICHES AND SALADS WITH A DIFFERENCE

WEDNESDAY, THURSDAY, AND FRIDAY LUNCHTIMES

Bal du rosé AURETO WINE CELLAR TASTING on 15th August PDO Ventoux – PDO Luberon – PGI Vaucluse On 15th August, head for D 900, chemin des Lièvres - 84220 Goult Domaine Aureto for an excep- GPS: 043° 51.47' N, 05° 17.12' E Open 7 days a week from 10 am to 7 pm from April to October tional all-day event centered on On-line sales: www.aureto-online.fr the tasting of rosé wines. From 7 pm onwards, there will be a AURETO WINE WAREHOUSE wine bar atmosphere, gourmet Wine cellar tours and grape growers’ footpaths Tasting workshops selections and a dessert buffet Hameau de la Coquillade - Perrotet – 84400 Gargas Come and steep in wine culture by participating in a Domaine Aureto workshop (Saturday mornings at 10 … The music for the evening Tel.: +33 (0) 490 74 54 67 - Email: [email protected] Website: www.aureto.fr - GPS: 043° 52.81' N, 005° 19.02' E am).Sensory analysis of the four basic tastes (salty, sweet, sour, bitter), a nose to recognize essences and aro- will be provided by the group mas, and tasting form the three parts of these workshops. These take place from April to September and Story Jazz. reservation is obligatory (15€ per person). Out of season, groups of 4 to 10 persons can be catered for. Aureto is the wine estate for the three restaurants at La THE + Coquillade Hôtel *****, a Relais & Châteaux establishement

15 Gordes: a jewel in Luberon

THE VILLAGE OF BORIES

On the slopes of the Vaucluse mountains, facing the Luberon mountains, the Bories village with its sheep-pens, stone bread ovens, wine vats, threshing areas, narrow alleys and “city walls” bears witness to the numerous generations of hard working people that have inhabited this place. Since the Bories (a "borie" is a stone hut characteris- tic of the Apt area), can be traced back to the Bronze Age, it is about 3000 years of continuity that one contemplates, the newest huts having been built in the XVIIIth century. The French Govern- acing Mount Luberon, Gordes spirals upwards towards the limpid Pro- ment has classified the Bories Village vencal sky around a spectacular outcrop of rock rising from the Vau- a Historical Monument in 1977. It is cluse hills. Its cobbled streets meander among tall houses built direct- the most important group of houses Fly on the rock of moun- tainsides vibrant of a thousand stories and of its kind in the region. legends. Gordes is further enriched by the presence of a visual arts tradition The Village, neglected for over a century had suffered the assaults of time To discover the Bories Village is a unique experience. One cannot but be tou- that has inspired such painters as André Lhote, Marc Chagall, Jean Deyrol- and was disap- pearing under the overgrowth. It had also been used as a ched by the harmony of the horizontal and vertical lines; the balance bet- le, Victor Vasarely, Pol Mara and others. resource for cheap building materials. Thus, it was high time to restore and ween minerals and vegetation, the play between shadows and light, par- While strolling through the old village cobbled alleys you will discover its preserve it. The Village, which is a rare and fine example of spontaneous archi- ticularly at the rising or setting sun; time best suited for a visit. treasures : one of them is the cellars under the Palace Saint Firmin ( Histo- tectu- re, is well integrated to its surroundings. This is due to the use of natu- ric Monument). ral raw materials, and a design using a minimum of shapes and means. It is Information : Ph : (33) 4.90.72.03.48 Fax : (33) 4.90.72.04.39 now under protection, yet open to visitors. Organised as a museum it shows Open every day from 9.00 am to sunset. The surrounding leave you the choice of three exceptional sites, classed as a rural habitat and exhibits a collection of objects and tools traditionally used Parking: Buses: 1.7 km away from the Village, Senior Citizens: the Historic Monu- ments: the Village of Bories, the Cistercian Abbey of in the area. There is also a whole documentation on Gordes' History, the Bories Municipality of Gordes organises a shuttle bus, free of charge. To Senanque and the Gallo-Roman Bouillons Mill. and the tradition of building without mortar in France and in the world. book the bus, please Phone: (33) 4.90.72.02.08 Fax : (33) 4.90.72.04.39

communiqué communiqué Gordes | Festival | Gordes | Exhibition | An exceptional setting Reza and the ups and downs for exceptional evenings! of the world at the castle

arm summer evenings in Pro- he exhibition event of the famous photojournalist “The world is my field of vision. From war to peace, vence, in a site that views Reza will be in the Château de Gordes from 23rd from the ineffable to moments of poetry, my images Wthe Luberon, the festival TJune to 2nd November. Reza is a philanthro- are evidence of our humanity on the roads around offers outstanding evenings for pist, an idealist, a humanitarian, an architect at heart, the world.” all, with all types of entertainment. and a famous photojournalist (notably for Natio- Summer 2014 in Gordes will be deci- nal Geographic) who has been travelling the dedly young, energetic, dynamic and world for over 30 years and revealing the pain and From 23rd June to 2nd November festive. Don’t miss any of the sum- the joy of those he has met along the way. Reza Château de Gordes mer evenings, inspired by you and has been to more than a hundred countries, Open every day from 10 am to 1 pm dreamed up for you. Les Franglaises, taking photos of wars, revolutions and human disas- and from 2 pm to 6.30 pm a brilliantly talented musical group, ters. Information at: 04 90 72 98 64. gets the season off to a flying start with their genial interactivi- ty, their enthusiasm and their humor. Also present are the brothers of the Trio Joubran who will swathe you in the music of their ouds and their delicate, fragrant, exhilarating percussion … taking you to a musical seventh hea- Saturday 2nd August: Les Franglaises (music) ven! Then there’s Thomas Dutronc, brilliant in his Monday 4th August: L’Etudiante & Monsieur roguish gipsy jazz repertoire, a style he excels in. Henri (play) Roberto Fonseca, a brilliant pianist, will also be there, Wednesday 6th August: Thomas Dutronc (music) blending his Cuban origins to Malian songs and music, Friday 8th August: Le Trio Joubran (jazz) surrounded by other remarkable artistes including Sunday 10th August: Fatoumata Diawara & the enchanting Fatoumata Diawara. Roberto Fonseca (piano) Last but not least is “L’Etudiante & Monsieur Henri” Tuesday 12th August: Le Quatuor (music and that has been captivating French audiences since humour) 2012, and Le Quatuor that Gordes has been hoping All shows begin at 9.30 pm. to see for so long … Well, 2014 is going to be the year! Welcome to all the charming, delightful and Reservations: 04 90 72 05 35 inimitable participants in this summer’s festival. www.soireesdegordes.fr

16 communiqué Coustellet | Vision Plus Optician - Sunglasses and spectacles | Elegance and originality: the trademark of major brands Whether you want sunglasses or spectacles, Jérôme and Cédric, your Vision Plus opticians in Coustellet, have a large selection of frames for all styles and lenses for all types of correction. Advice, service, quality and a lot of choice, particularly from major brands, for AFNOR certified expertise along with a professionalism that inspires confidence in local customers and visitors alike.

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17 A landscape worked by Rustrel ochre miners

The Legacy of the Ochre Miners

lthough Rustrel started later in the ochre industry than the other villages around Apt, the town’s ironworks already had notable industrial experience. Well before ochre sands were quarried, iron ore Ahad been extracted first for the blast furnaces in Velleron and then, later, for local use. There were four blast furnaces in the Saint-Pierre and Notre-Dame des Anges quarters of Rustrel. First there was the Roussillon red mountain then other villages followed with farmers who found work in for winter in this industry, land owners who could exploit uncultivated but ochre-rich land, and entrepreneurs for whom it was a business opportunity. Some villages opened their quarries so as to bring work to inhabitants faced with serious agricultural crises.

In 1871, Jean Allemand who would come to be known as “Jean de l’ocre”, was the first to exploit Rustrel’s ochre. Until the survey in 1885 that was requested by the Prefecture, no declaration was deemed necessary when a new quarry was opened. In the municipal archives of 1885, the “pink book” mentions the names of several ochre miners. The upshot in Rustrel was several generations of ochre miners. Later, from the 1890s onwards, it became a veritable industry with quarries carving huge gashes in the hillsides, washing installations with multicolored glints, and factories with gigantic hangars. The dirt tracks suffered from the cartage that resulted from all this activity. Needles, cliffs, ravines, and galleries are all due to the work of man. The landscape was later fashioned by erosion. Lamy and Ets Paul Chauvin. Many other Rustrel ochre miners set up small Extraction, washing and production made up the better known part of ochre businesses that had, in some cases, their own mines and a sales network mining. At the peak of the ochre industry period, ochre miners had two so they could export on a world scale. main worries – transport and energy. As it is a product for exportation, being able to transport it by train much helped the development of the indus- The remains of this legacy are, firstly, archive documents and period pho- try. In fact, the demand for ochre was clear and came from all over the world. tos. Then there is the equipment. The equipment from the Lamy factory in Indeed, it became necessary to increase production to meet the heavy demands Apt was acquired by the Conservatoire de l’Ocre and the Musée de l’Industrie made by the market, causing the ochre miners to set up steam engines then, in Apt. Finally, when hiking through the “Colorado”, even if many of the buil- later, heat engines running on lean gas or fuel oil. dings no longer exist or are only barely visible ruins, an inquiring mind may find remains that are essentially linked to the supply of water or to the carts Here again, there remain traces, mostly in period documents – postcards, used for mucking. Note also that the beautifully colored and sculpted land- headed writing paper, plans and documents from constructors’ catalogs, scapes are the result of the miners’ work as well as the effects of erosion. quantity notes, newspaper articles (The Apt Mercure and the Illustration Economique) along with some very rare business archives. Towards 1890, By Dominique Bel two bigger companies were set up by the Rustrel ochre miners - Ets Marius Tools belonging to Roger Arnaud, the last ochre Dominique Bel is an engineer and trainer who spent over 10 years visiting ochre mines miner in Rustrel and continues to conduct extensive research into ochre quarries. He gives explanations and tells stories about the techniques used and the social life in bygone times. He is also a photographer and has made explanatory slide presentations. Besides this, he is a member of several local associations working on safeguarding the local heritage. You can contact him via the A.D.E.P., le Logis neuf 84400 Rustrel. (Tel. 04 90 04 96 07 or 06 81 86 82 20)

18 communiqué Joucas | Hôtel***** - Restaurant | Summertime at Le Mas des Herbes Blanches estling between Calavon valley and Grand Luberon and overlooking Joucas, a Lube- Nron beauty spot, sits Le Mas des Herbes Blanches, a 5-star Relais & Châteaux hotel. The drystone wall complex is surrounded by the lush greenery of the hillside and offers all the appeal and authenticity of nights, weekends, theme holidays (sports, cycling, gold, tennis, and swimming pool), and gourmet food enjoyed in comfort and leisure, for nature lovers and romantics alike. This dens of yesteryear. Le Mas des is the perfect gift for you or for someo- Herbes Blanches, for the sheer plea- ne else to (re)discover the real Lube- sure of being entertained Luberon- ron. The establishment's website gives style. more information on the current offers. You can eat on the terrace while admi- ring the sun setting over a superb view, in sublimating produce and flavors, ragus meunière, foie gras-stuffed squab cheeseboard too with cheeses by Josia- RELAIS & CHÂTEAUX - LE MAS DES HERBES BLANCHES or in the warm and charming dining inspired by the southern accent and pigeon, langoustines in a coconut milk ne Deal (Meilleur Ouvrier de France) Lieu dit Toron - Joucas – 84220 Gordes room - Le Mas des Herbes Blanches local seasonal produce, by sun- and kaffir lime emulsion, John Dory, and among the desserts, “After Eight Tel.: 33 (0)4 90 05 79 79 - Fax: 33 (0)4 90 05 71 96 has much to tempt your taste buds. drenched orchards and kitchen gar- line-caught sea bass, bream with cour- à ma façon”, a rather unusual lemon Email: [email protected] Orchestrating all this is Xavier Burel- dens, by cheeses, by local farm pro- gette flowers, braised beef cheek, pan- tart accompanied by a rum baba or Website: www.herbesblanches.com le, a recent arrival, elaborating duce and by freshly-landed fish. isse with a light anchovy sauce, veal Limoncello sorbet, and a strawber- Open 7 days a week. menus of Provençal and Mediterra- The current à la carte and evening chops, and rack of lamb. There are things ry-rhubarb crisp in honor of the gar- In the evening, à la carte menu, tasting menu at 95 €. nean inspiration. He takes pleasure menus are enticing with local aspa- to captivate the finest palates on the THE + All family or professional events can be catered for. Airport/HST station shuttle. Heliport

communiqué Luberon | Gardens – Heritage – Landscaping | Silvasud holds the key to a progressive garden

SILVASUD ENVIRONNEMENT ilvasud can draw up a project and watering into consideration sud’s trademark. They also offer tai- tions.” This is a key factor when you & SILVASUD PATRIMOINE for a garden that will last becau- because over 80% of the success of a lored garden maintenance solu- are helping the client with his or her Rue de la Lauze – 84220 Cabrières d’Avignon se of their use of sustainable garden lies in what you don’t see.” As tions. wildest dreams … Tel.: 09 75 43 87 39. Mob : 06 24 15 63 47 infrastructure. This family your garden is your haven of peace, “It is essential to keep a regular, Silvasud has been environment [email protected] S www.Silvasud-environnement.fr business employs the same skills and your go-to area, it needs to adapt over attentive eye on things. And that means experts for ten years now, with one expertise whatever the size of your the years according to your means, much more than simply mowing the golden rule – never forget that the www.Silvasud-patrimoine.fr garden. your tastes, the age of your children, lawn,” continues Luc Percie du Sert. feasibility survey of a garden is LE JARDIN JACQUES ROUY “It’s a real challenge for us!” explains and so on. “Our very capable technicians notice more important that the ornamen- 978, chemin des cris verts - 84000 Avignon the manager, Luc Percie du Sert. “Our Their expertise in regional conditions plant deficiencies and know when to tal effect if you want it to last. The Tel.: 04 90 82 43 60 – [email protected] teams go on site and examine the soil is indispensible to the success of your use plant health products … You can’t rule has yet to be proved wrong. www.lejardinjacquesrouy.fr from an agronomic and technical outdoor projects (whether you live afford to make a mistake and you must point of view. We also take lighting there full-time or not) and is Silva- able to adapt to Mediterranean condi- A carpet of sedum can easily replace a lawn for small THE + surfaces and arid areas

19 Aix-en-Provence | Towns and villages |

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[13] [6] [1] 1 Aix-en-Provence Visiting Aix is like stepping back in time. Culture and architectural wealth is all around you. A simple stroll in the town is all it takes to discover [8] its treasures. Aix is a spa town and a town of the arts and has developed and flourished around this dual identity. However, it is also a town that combines eras and cultures. Aix is in touch with the outside world; it is a human-size town in harmony with its rich cultural heritage and its vision [3] of tomorrow. Here, all is color and sensation – the luminosity of the sky, the golden stone of the buildings, the green transparency of the fountains, the shade of the plane trees, and the surprises of festival eve- [11] nings… Welcome to Aix en Provence. 2 Eguilles 7 Meyrargues 12 Vauvenargues Éguilles has managed to remain authentic over the centuries. Perched on Meyrargues is a mediaeval village nestling in the Durance valley at the Outside the village, nestling in greenery, the Château de Vauvenargues a hilltop at 300m altitude, surrounded by fields and forests, it has a foot of a feudal castle that looks down on the village from a high pro- seems to watch over the entrance to the valley. Flanked by two round remarkable view over the Provençal countryside. The nearby hamlet of montory. The castle was converted in the 17th century by the Albertas 14th century towers and surrounded by a 16th century wall, its eventful Figons is attached to the town of Éguilles and enjoys the same sheltered family and named after them. Nowadays the castle is a 4 star hotel. In history dates back to the days of the Counts of Provence. We know that rural surroundings. the valley behind the castle, if you take the road to the cemetery you in 1257 the castle belonged to the archbishops of Aix and that, in 1722, will see the remains of a Roman aqueduct that used to serve the town of Louis XV gave it to a certain Joseph de Clapiers for good and loyal service 3 Fuveau Aix en Provence. during the plague of 1720… and that, in 1958, the castle became the 16 kms from Aix-en-Provence, at the foot of Sainte-Victoire, sits Fuveau, property of the world-famous painter Pablo Picasso who, according to a charming hilltop village. It is typically Provençal in style with steep 8 Meyreuil his wishes, made it his eternal resting place … alleys, a superb and imposing neo-gothic church heavily inspired by the The village of Meyreuil is set on a picturesque hill surrounded by typical- Italian Baroque style. The heart of the village, the cours Victor Leydet, ly Provençal houses giving on to the plain. The village has some specta- 13 Ventabren lazes in the shade of the plane trees. Take the time to wander through cular view points on Sainte-Victoire. You might enjoy a stroll along the Ventabren is a pretty little village sitting atop a hill dominated by the the narrow, winding streets of the village and appreciate the evidence of river Arc and don’t miss the famous Pont des Trois Sautets (1655) that ruins of Queen Jeanne’s castle. In the village, you’re sure to fall under its mediaeval history. One of the last vestiges of this period is the Porte was painted by Paul Cézanne. the charm of the paved streets bordered with flowers and flanked by de Bassac (1.5m thick) which was the slant-wise entrance on the south charming houses made of stone and restored with care. Take the stone- side of the village walls. 9 Rognes paved Grande Rue (which is quite small despite its name) that climbs Rognes is a very old town located between Salon de Provence and Aix en towards the delightful little Place de l'Eglise. Many of the house doors 4 Lambesc Provence, not far from the banks of the Durance River. The origins of the are antiques and are surrounded by lush vegetation. The shutters are The appeal of Lambesc is its rich heritage, the beauty of the sites, its his- town dates as far back as the Stone Age and it climbs the side of Foussa painted with taste in Provençal colors and are a little faded by the sun. tory, its authenticity, its excellent wines and the hospitality of the local (the name of the hill) in tiers. It was built, destroyed, and rebuilt several You will also see charming fountains and washhouses as well as a 17th residents and shopkeepers. Take advantage of your stay to discover the times over the centuries until a terrible day in 1909 when an earthquake century church. Mme de Sévigné’s house. This superb town house is also known under almost razed it. At that point it was definitively abandoned. Nowadays, the names of Hôtel Faudran de Laval and Hôtel des Deux Lions. the village sits peacefully at the foot of the hill and still has a few narrow This list is not exhaustive. Do not hesitate to consult our website, streets and buildings that survived the catastrophe. Rognes is also www.journaldesaixois.fr, to discover all the wealth of our heritage. 5 La Roque d’Anthéron renowned for the quality of its stone that has been extracted from near- La Roque d’Anthéron is known the world over for its celebrated piano by open pit quarries for nearly 20 centuries … festival that takes place every summer, bringing together the greatest piano players in the magical locations of the abbaye de Silvacane and 10 Saint-Cannat the Château de Florans. The architecture of the Abbaye de Silvacane As you walk through Saint-Cannat, you will come across several 17th (built in the early 12th century) is impressive in its purity, simplicity and and 18th century fountains, old washhouses and the posterns that are perfection. It is one of the “three Provençal sisters” of the Cistercian order the remains of the mediaeval ramparts. Don’t miss the village museum alongside the Abbaye du Thoronet and the Abbaye de Sénanque near that houses information on Saint-Cannat and its history. There are exhi- Gordes. You must see the Château de Florans; it has a magnificent cour- bitions about Provençal dress, agricultural tools, the 1909 earthquake tyard delicately shaded by plane trees, palm trees and chestnut trees. and Bailli de Suffren (Bailli de Suffren was one of the greatest French sailors of his period) who was born in the castle that now houses both 6 Le Tholonet the town hall and the museum. Le Tholonet was one of Cézanne’s favorite places; red earth, gray rocks, and an intense blue sky forming a backdrop to Sainte-Victoire – all in all, 11 Trets an extraordinary palette of colors. Cezanne also painted the Château du Ramparts surround the heart of the town and shelter small streets and Tholonet which is one of the stages in the Cezanne tour, tracing the key secret gardens. There are numerous vestiges of the past to visit: the feu- sites in the painter’s life in the Aix region. On leaving the castle, you will dal castle and ramparts, two square gate-towers, the Notre-Dame de pass in front of the "Relais Cézanne" and then a small church. Nazareth church, and the Saint Jean du Puy chapel.

20 communiqué Saint-Cannat | Restaurant – Hôtel*** | Le Mas de Fauchon, a unique location for creative cuisine! as de Fauchon, part of Châ- teaux-Hôtels-Collection, is a 3-star hotel with 16 Mbedrooms (all with private terrace and access to the swimming pool) nestling in the pine forest located in the country side of Aix en Provence. Benefiting from an exceptionally environment, also provides a magical backdrop for weddings and receptions, business tourism. The restaurant is open every day for lunch and dinner, The perfect venue for a romantic dinner for two, with friends or familly, the restaurant of the Mas serves refined and creative Mediterranean-style cuisine in a truly exceptional ambiance. The restaurant's vast terrace offers sweeping views over the Ecuries de la Touloubre. Respectful of the products of the nature and the work passionate about producers, Nicolas Chouchanian Chef of the kitchen uses noble, gourmet products to concoct his culinary delights. A constantly-renewed seasonal cui- LE MAS DE FAUCHON sine, New dishes are constantly added to our menu according to the sea- 1666, ch. de Berre - Quartier Fauchon - 13760 St-Cannat son. The restaurant also offers 3 set menus featuring the Chef's sugges- Tel. 04 42 50 61 77 - www.masdefauchon.fr tions of the day. Facebook.com/pages/MAS-DE-FAUCHON Barbara Piel Chouchanian, manager of the establishment, “I call it my house Open 7 days a week, midi et soir. passion, when you cross the gate of the Mas you will discover the heart of Pro- vence, but above all was a house of family, renovated by my mom... Dinner and a jazz concert (27th of june and 1st of August : Here I cultivate the art to receive, to treat, to share : a lifestyle simply.” THE Menillo and is trio) (29th of August and 26th of September : + music of the world, brasilien…)

21 Provence | Tradition | Coupo Santo: The tale of an anthem

estivities in Provence often come to an end with the legendary song, La Coupo Santo, and the words “Proven- berately create a myth. From 1876, the Coupo was at the core of what was to be a veritable ritual. This ritual would çal people, this is the cup that the Catalans gave us…” The song was composed by Frédéric Mistral for the Féli- be celebrated at the Félibres’ annual assembly on Saint Estelle’s feast day, for Whitsun. At the end of a copious ban- Fbrige. This year will be the 150th anniversary of the founding of the Félibrige, a movement that defended and quet, Coupo Santo in hand, the Capoulièr would give a speech ending with a toast, followed by all those present promoted the Provençal language and culture and eventually extended to the whole of the langue d’Oc region. Though and rounded up with the song itself … now less dynamic than in the 19th century, the Félibrige is still active. It was at the origin of all the other groups that work to promote the langue d’Oc languages and cultures. The rites associated with Coupo Santo… Provence and Catalonia: All of this certainly resembles other, older, rituals. Let’s start with the Last Supper eaten by Christ with his disciples age-old links revived in the 19th century … where he initiated Holy Communion. Then, later, the myth of the Holy Grail and the Knights of the Round Table and Freemasonry agapes both stemmed from the same Christian tradition. The history of La Cansoun de la Coupo is a reminder of the deep ties that have always existed between Provence The number 7 is also very important in La Cansoun de la Coupo. The song counts 7 verses and each line of these has and Catalonia; both are former principalities that were under the power of the same dynasty in the 12th and 13th 7 syllables. This number, the symbol of completion and of life, is linked to the ancient cult of Apollo, god of the eter- centuries. Although this was also the reason for the Blood and Gold flags that fly here and on the other side of the nal sun. In any case, the number 7 is omnipresent in all the Félibrige customs. One of the movement’s emblems is Pyrenees, the creation of La Cansoun de la Coupo stems from political and literary events in the 19th century. a 7-pointed star. Created according to legend by 7 founders called Primadié, the Félibrige also has 7 regions… Mistral’s intentions were to contact other European regional movements once the Félibrige was founded. In 1867, Of course, none of this is accidental… We can even state that it was quite deliberate on behalf of Mistral and his the opportunity to do so came his way. Victor Balaguer, a Catalan politician and poet, was obliged to leave his coun- friends, so as to give the Félibrige more charisma and appeal. And let’s not forget that the 19th century literati were try and seek political asylum. He stayed in Avignon for a while and was taken in by the Félibres. The legend says steeped in romanticism and symbolism and drawn to anything that had even the slightest whiff of esoterism… that the Catalan people commissioned the sculptor Guillaume Fulconis (1818-1873) to make a small silver cup to Apparently, Victor Balaguer was a Freemason, as were several Félibres, Jean Brunet, for instance, as well as a cou- thank their Provençal counterparts for their hospitality towards Balaguer. The gift was offered to the Félibres in Avi- sin of Napoléon III, the Irishman William Bonaparte-Wyse. We can be practically certain that Bonaparte-Wyse was gnon on 30th July 1867. at the origin of a great number of the Félibrige traditions… From legend to reality… Nowadays … It’s a nice legend and it’s partly true. However, nowadays we know that the Coupo was mainly paid for by the Pro- La Cansoun de la Coupo, simply referred to as La Coupo Santo nowadays, has become the anthem of the Félibrige vençal people themselves because the event gave them a powerful symbol for their budding cause … The cup is movement and of Provence. This is why it can often be heard at village fetes, bull-running and bull-fighting events a chalice with two feminine figurines (Catalonia and Provence) with an arm round each other, forming the stem. and, occasionally, at family get-togethers. Mistral composed La Cansoun de la Coupo so as to formally thank the Catalans; it is set to the music of an old Christ- Generally speaking, it follows the same routine. So as not to take too long, only three verses are sung: the first, the mas carol, attributed to Nicolas Saboly. From the very outset, the intention of this poetic project was to quite deli- second and the seventh (and last). The purists insist that you should only stand for the last verse. This is a fairly recent tradition and appears to be a deliberate attempt at refuting any accusation of separatism from France. The custom of standing for the last verse dates from the end of the First World War and it is done in memory of the Catalans communiqué who died for France. Thus their honor is saved … In fact, there was absolutely no reason not to stand for the Provençal anthem for fear of being considered a sepa- Eguilles | Cellier d’Eguilles | ratist because it was done in honor of soldiers who died for France! Finally, for these same purists, you must never applaud at the end of the song … In the name of progress, couldn’t we just accept that La Coupo Santo is an anthem in its own right nowadays? Then All the pleasures of wine – from walks we could simply stand and sing only the first verse and chorus as for any other national anthem? The Spanish and the British stand to sing their regional anthems without being accused of separatism! As for applause, people often applaud the Marseillaise at sporting events. The best traditions are those that move with the times… to tasting However, we can be sure that the Félibrige founders would never have dreamt that, 150 years after their movement started, La Coupo Santo would have become so important. Undeniably, it holds a very special place in the hearts ith four of the twen- of the Provençal people. ty medals won this Wwinter in various com- By Remi Venture petitions being gold, Le Cel- lier d’Eguilles has just made a leap forward in the world of wine. The PDO Coteaux d’Aix- en-Provence rosés (Ophélie in the Concours Général Agri- cole des Vins in Paris and Le Sieur in the Concours Inter- national des Vins in Lyon, which also earned a silver medal from the Mondial du Rosé in Cannes) and the PGI on a Sunday in September. Fans of the wine world Bouches-du-Rhône reds (Marselan in the Concours can discover estates and talk to dedicated wine- des Vins d’Aix and Merlot in the Concours Natio- growers, proud of passing on their skills and know- nal des Vins IGP de France) are now references in ledge. Another important event is Les Balades Vigne- the wine-growing world. ronnes en Provence (a walk + a tour of the cellar In the boutique in the heart of the village you will + tasting). This will take place in Eguilles on 18th find bottles containing a number of local special- September and 1st November. ties: oils, terrines, and condiments. Not only savory flavors, but treats for sweet tooths too, with cor- LA BOUTIQUE AND LE CELLIER D’EGUILLES dials and preserves. These are genuine delights to 30, av.du Père Sylvain Giraud – 13510 Eguilles enjoy with a glass of rosé, red, or white wine. And Tel.: 04 42 92 38 19 - Fax: 04 42 28 24 53 Email : [email protected] there are carefully selected wines that are in the pro- Order from www.lecellierdeguilles.fr cess of obtaining certification by Agriconfiance. Open from Monday to Saturday from Now that the highly successful Fête de la Vigne et 9 am to 12.30 pm and from 2 pm to 7 pm. du Vin is over, Le Cellier d’Eguilles is actively get- Open on Sundays from 9 am to 1 pm. ting ready for the Fête des Vendanges that will occur Private car park for customers.

THE + Unusual gift boxes that you can complete with carafes or corkscrews

22 Eguilles | Discovery | A stroll through the heart of Provence

Over the centuries, the village of Eguilles has managed to maintain its authenticity. Located at an altitude of 300 m, surrounded by fields and forest, it has a remarkable view over the Provençal countryside. The nearby hamlet of Figons is connected to Eguilles and also enjoys a sheltered rural setting at only twenty minutes from the Cours Mirabeau in Aix-en-Provence.

he village of Eguilles is situated in the very heart of Provence and is home to a dynamic community combining craftsmen, industry, services and Tshops arising from the development of trade, the increase in population in the Aix region and traditional agricultural activities. Narrow streets, old stones, wash houses, monuments, bories … a stroll through the village (located on the Route des Vins) and in the surrounding countryside gives a good idea of this. Here and there, wherever you look, is as much evidence of the past as of modern day life with all its authenticity and quality of living… This is a village that lives with its time, combining the past and present to better build its future. Should proof be required that Eguilles is firmly rooted in Provençal traditions and customs, it can be seen in the village’s participation in a major European event, La Routo. La Routo follows transhumance paths with the ambition of creating a hiking trail of nearly 400 km based on former droveways, showing the various aspects of grass- land farming, stretching from the Camargue and Crau plains to the Stura valley (Italy). The town council is also actively involved in protecting the agricultural zones in and around the village from the pressure of urban planning and development. Eguilles is in vine country and maintains a remarkable quality of living notably due to the preservation of woodland areas such as the Parc de Fontlaure, the place to head for if you’re looking for a little coolness in the heat of the summer for a special picnic. You could also decide to have lunch at La Marelle, a gastronomic restaurant known to gourmets far and wide … Another point of interest in the village is Max Sauze’s Jardin Remarquable, just a stone’s throw from the community hall, where you can immerse yourself in an imaginative garden, redesigned by a quite remarkable 80 year-old sculptor. The garden is a blend of luxu- rious vegetation and exceptional works of art and can only be visited by appointment (+33 6 03 77 67 40)… Finally, for the last year, the village has had a new asset. It is located right on the road from Rome to Santiago de Compostela. A sign-post between the town hall and the Office de Tou- risme, shows this (on branch GR563A, between Menton and Arles). So let’s get those cameras out and use them!

Eguilles Office de Tourisme: +33 4 42 92 49 15

Saturday 21st June: Wednesday 9th July: Friday 22nd - Sunday 24th August: Fête de la Musique, 9.30 pm, place Gabriel Payeur 8 pm, conference in Espace Georges Duby, 9 pm, The Fête de la Saint-Julien, 9 pm, Zumba evening; Enchanted Flute by Mozart broadcast live from the Saturday 23rd, 10.30 am to 12.30 pm and from 2 pm Saturday 28th June: Festival d’Aix-en-Provence. to 4.30 pm, boulevard Léonce Artaud, games, face Fête des Figons, games for children during the day, Bookings at the Office de Tourisme painting; 11.30 am – 2.30 pm – 4.30 pm: three Figons carpark; 19h, concert and drinks, meal, street parades; 7 pm, free drinks, meal by advance dance... Friday 11th - Monday 14th July: booking. the funfair takes over Place du Mail in the evening Monday 30th June - Sunday 6th July: Illuminated parade, dance with live music; “3 Regards” exhibition, salle Frédéric Mistral Saturday 12th: Sunday 24th, 11 am, mass for Saint Julian, dance with a flurry of blue, white and red confetti Friday 4th July: 12 pm, drinks with music, place Gabriel Payeur... Operatella, 8.30 pm, Espace Georges Duby, Sunday 13th and Monday 14th: Saturday 20th September, 9pm: Time travel through 4 centuries of opera in 44 boules competition, boulevard Léonce Artaud. Sound and light show, projection mapping minutes and 44 seconds Sunday, fun competition (parents-children). on the castle walls Monday, competition for experienced players. Monday 7th - Friday 11th July: Saturday 20th and Sunday 21st September: Registration: 06 10 31 32 57 - 04 42 28 24 38 "Les oeuvres de Rosalin" exhibition, salle Frédéric European Heritage Days, Fontelaure park Mistral and residence will be open to the public. Monday 14th: 7 pm, drinks in front of the town hall followed by a giant paella. Booking: Alain Traiteur (in the village market, rue du Grand Logis); 10 pm, mayor’s speech, fireworks and dance Friday 8th - Wednesday 13th August: exhibition of works by Alain Albert, salle Frédéric Mistral Sunday 17th August: 70th anniversary of the Provence landing and libera- tion of the Aix region, 11.30 am – 2.45 pm, Place de Eguilles Office de Tourisme - Place de la Mairie la Mairie, with 60 soldiers in uniform and 25 vehicles +33 (0)4 42 92 49 15 - [email protected]

23 Salon Region | Towns and villages |

1 Salon de Provence Located 30 km or so from Aix-en-Provence, Salon de Provence is a charming town whose motto is “un nouvel art de vivre en Provence” (a different lifestyle in Provence). With its castle and many fountains, Salon has [13] remained a town on a human scale. Salon was also the setting for the prophecies of Nostradamus. [10]

2 Saint-Chamas [5] [4] [3] Sitting astride a range of coastal hills, Saint Chamas is a village on the northern banks of the Etang de Barre. The village is divided into two parts. One the one side it opens up onto a pine forest and hills and on [9] the other onto a charming little marina. Several pleasantly shaded [14] public squares add charm and open space to the village (Place Betirac, Place de l'Eglise). [1] 3 Alleins [11] [12] When passing through Alleins you will discover 4000 years of history, listed buildings and events that all go to make it a dynamic and cultural village. [8] 4 Lamanon Before reaching the village, you will see a delightful little road lined with plane trees that leads to the gates of the Château de Lamanon. This superb (privately owned) residence is surrounded by a lush green park [7] and was built in 1660 for one of the lords of Cadenet. Located between Salon de Provence and Cavaillon, Lamanon is a lovely little town that sits [2] peacefully at the edge of the Alpilles. 5 Eyguières [6] Eyguières is a small town located at the extreme east of the Alpilles and it probably has the largest number of springs and fountains in the region. Whatever the season and whatever the temperature, in summer as in winter, water always flows in Eyguières… so you can expect to see a number of charming fountains - fontaine Coquille, fontaine Cocotte and fontaine des Bormes, among others. [15] 6 Velaux Velaux is an attractive old Provençal village set on a knoll that overlooks the countryside to the west of Aix. It is strategically located in the midd- 11 Pélissanne le of the Aix-Marseille-Salon triangle and is surrounded by lush country- Pelissane is a located in the middle of the Bouches du Rhone depart- side and vineyards. Velaux is fortunate enough to benefit from the peace ment, near Salon de Provence, and on the banks of the Touloubre. When of the countryside while remaining close to the major urban centers in you visit it you will discover a maze of streets winding and intertwining the region. around the old town center. 7 La Fare les Oliviers 12 La Barben La Fare les Oliviers is located half way between Aix-en-Provence and La Barben is fortunate enough to have a superb castle that is classified Salon de Provence. As its name indicates, the town’s history is closely as a Historic Building. It is as remarkable on the inside as it is on the entwined with olive-growing. Above the village is the Castellas, the outside and can be visited all year round. The castle is surrounded by a ruins of the castrum that was located there and that was at the origin of French formal garden designed by Le Nôtre (who created the gardens at the village. Versailles) and there is a nearby zoo. 13 Sénas The center of Senas has several streets of shops. You will like the town hall square with its plane trees that offer the shade necessary to avoid being too hot on a café terrace. You might decide to have a stroll thin the streets around the town hall and discover a few of the very typical village houses. 14 Vernègues The original village of Vernègues (now known as Vieux Vernègues) was wiped out on 11th June 1909 by a terrible earthquake. When you arrive in the village you will notice the ruins of Vieux Vernègues in the distance 8 Lançon de Provence on a hill. Visit them if you will, you will find the remains of a castle, Lançon sits on a hill beneath the remains of the castle (17th century) houses and a church. belonging to the lords of Les Baux. The ruins are surrounded by a wall flanked with square towers. In the village you will find delightful narrow 15 Berre l’Etang streets lined with the magnificent antique doors of 17th and 18th centu- Excavations have shown that Etang de Berre has always been a place ry town houses. where communities formed. At the end of the 19th century, traditional culture (based on olives, vines, fishing and salt) collapsed and was dras- 9 Aurons tically changed by industrialization. Today, the Etang is split in two - the Aurons is a superb village that has sat on a hilltop in the middle of pea- south and the south east both of which sacrificed much to industrializa- ceful countryside for eleven centuries. Its location is strategic – only a tion while the north and the west have maintained a more conventional few minutes from Salon de Provence and close to the Luberon and the character and where the land is covered by crops and woods. Alpilles. Aurons is really worth a visit. 10 Charleval Charleval has the kind of Provençal charm that tempts you out for a walk. From the streets and alleys in the charming center to the 18th century castle, all of it is worth a visit.

24 communiqué Salon de Provence | Artisan Ice-cream Maker | Gourmand’ice, ices to melt in your mouth ummer has arrived early in the region of La Fontaine Mous- sue! Welcome to Gourmand’ice, Swhere savoring a sorbet or an ice-cream (50 or so flavors and more than 60 sundaes) on the terrace is a divine moment of indulgence. Among the latest creations are the Baba and Tiramisù sundaes that have already hooked a number of fans just as the sparkling tea and coffee cocktails have done. Backed by Hervé Gutzwiller’s skills (over 30 years experience as a pastry chef-choco- latier-ice-cream maker-confectio- ner), seconded by Clément, his son, and Jean-Luc, the company continues to break new ground with iced creations devised in their laborato- ry, upstairs.

Upstairs, is the bedroom of poet Antoi- and cold, Gourmand’ice shows off their ne-Blaise Crousillat (it’s a listed revolutionary Ice Burger, a hot building), a place steeped in histo- brioche filled with the ice-cream of ry where you can enjoy hot food (waffles your choice and fresh coulis. A “fast – with or without topping, gourmet food” dessert served with apple options, macaroon options, double “fries” and (strawberry froth) “ket- lattes, teas, coffees and a variety of chup”. An iced dessert to relish at lei- chocolates). Somewhere between hot sure. Savory and … sugar-free ices! Besides the traditional sorbets and ice-creams, Gourmand’ice also offers milk shakes, water ices and, at the weekend, smoking sundaes (made with dry ice), as well as savory ices: pesto, avocado, olive (oil), tomato and basil, and Roquefort, all vying for your attention. Another unusual feature is their sugar-free range – as individual ices on a stick, in small glasses or half-liter containers to take out.

THE + The sundaes are garnished with fresh fruit GOURMAND'ICE 1, place Crousillat (Fontaine Moussue) - 13300 Salon de Provence – Tel.: 04 90 44 70 82 – www.gourmandice.fr Open every day from 1 pm to 8 pm (from Monday to Thursday) and from 1 pm to midnight (from Friday to Sunday). As from June, open every day from 1 pm to midnight. Eat-in or take-out.

25 Provence | History | Nostradamus and preserves sweet answers to life’s ills Although known world-wide for his predictions, the celebrated Saint-Rémy-born physician also published a rather unusual compendium on the subject of cosmetics and preserves. It was halfway between a recipe book for beauty products and a guide to personal hygiene and everyday remedies.

By Rémi Lacassin

hen Nostradamus first published “The Prophecies” in Lyon, he couldn’t possibly have imagined that, 450 years later, a donation by a rich WGerman (Hans Georg Buddrus) would allow the Salon de Provence museum to buy the original of his Traité des Fardemens et des Confitures from a … Peruvian (Daniel Reuzo) who had fallen in love with the region. The work represented a fabulous voyage through eras and cultures, a reflection of the life of the legendary apothecary and philosopher who was born in 1503 in Saint-Rémy and who died in 1566 in Salon.

And it was here, three years before the text was first published (published again in 1555), that Michel de Nostredame began writing the very first recipe book in history. He wrote it in French at a time when Latin, very much used at the time, was the official language of science. A healthful collection intended for the general public and easily accessible to all. It contained information on personal care (fardemens) at a time when nobody washed, and about plant-based medicine.

The first part of the book was on the subject of beautifying and perfecting the complexion. The rest is explained by Catherine Ottonelli, ex-assistant to Jacqueline Allemand the recently retired manager of the Maison de Nostra- damus, “With all the wars, epidemics, and the limited life expectancy of the time, you had to look as if you were in excellent health. This meant being pale of skin, smelling nice, having white teeth…” She then adds, “The paradox of it all is that the use of cream containing white lead eventually killed them!”

Meanwhile, the use of tooth powder and hair color was widespread. It should be mentioned, however, that Nostradamus was older than his second wife (Anne Ponsard, married on 11 November 1547, the day he bought his house in Salon) and wanted to hide his first gray hairs… Another example, in order to obtain a “supreme odor”, he would mix rose water – he used this for all and sundry – with pork fat chopped finely with orris root, then he would add 12 apples, 3 quinces, 4 orange peels, half a lemon and then cooked them all slowly over charcoal. Then all he had to do was grind the mixture down! Runny, overcooked and very spicy The preserves were intended for all alike and had preventive or healing properties. They were grouped together in the second chapter “How to make all manner of liquid jams using sugar, honey and fortified wine”. The recipes include lots of honey (less expensive than sugar imported from the Canaries), defrutum (grape juice with a very high concentration of sugar), spices, and so on. The jams were very runny, cooked for a very long time and concentrated like syrup. Common ingredients are lemons, squash, cherries, quinces, oranges, lettuce (a luxury product at the time), and candied almonds. There were also local wild plants, vegetables and fruit – all easy enough to lay hands on then.

Among the more frequently used spices were cinnamon (antispasmodic, antiseptic), green ginger and car- damom (eyes, bronchial tubes, intestines) cloves (basic product for anti-plague medicine), nutmeg (against cholera, miscarriage and palpitations), pepper (aphrodisiac), and saffron (to fortify the stomach and the heart).

Whether it was the recipe for “Hippocras” to treat diarrhea and help digestion or for “Pignolat en roche”, the predecessor of pine nut nougat and prescribed only as a treat for the tastebuds (it was believed at the time that anything sweet had to be good for you), Nostradamus tested all of them in his home in Salon de Pro- vence before committing them to paper. He felt it was his duty to pass on his knowledge to others and this remained his goal his whole life long.

MUSÉE MAISON DE NOSTRADAMUS Rue Nostradamus - 13300 Salon de Provence Tel.: 04 90 56 64 31 [email protected] Open on weekdays from 9 am to noon and from 2 pm to 6 pm; open on Saturdays and Sundays from 2pm to 6 pm.

26 Mallemort | Tourism | Culture, events and festivities – this summer looks promising! A tempting program Friday 4th July: DesArt’iculé evening. 5th edition with dramatic art, clowns, classical music, dancing, singing, pop folk, rap, R’n’B… at ith an exceptional accommodation capacity given the population of the village (approximately 6500 inhabitants), in camp sites, hotels, tourist residences (Pier- the Théâtre and Espace Dany. re&Vacances in the Pont-Royal area), and bed and breakfast establishments, Mal- Saturday 5th July: Free concert – rock music from the last 50 years. Wlemort can lodge over 5300 people every night. The location is ideal, sitting at Saturday 5th July - Friday 1st August: the crossroads between Marseille, Aix and Avignon, with easy access to HST stations and air- “Les artistes mallemortais s’exposent”… painting exhibition at the ports, and only a few kilometers from the Alpilles and the Luberon. This former farming vil- Office de Tourisme. lage has all sorts of activities going on all summer. There are things to do at that fishing lake Mardi 8th July – Mardi 26th August: 9th year for the evening craft (and the Durance River is nearby), the tennis courts, the town swimming pool, the 18-hole market every Tuesday from 7.30 pm to midnight in rue Fernand Pau- and beginner 6-hole golf courses in Pont-Royal (open to all for a walk or for lunch …), natu- riol. Pony rides, wooden toys and games, carriage rides, crafts re trails, La Vallée des Loisirs with its sports grounds and water slides that everyone will appre- stands, etc. ciate… And then, there are cultural visits and tours to discover an incredibly rich heritage Monday 14th July: Outdoor dance in place Raoul Coustet. going right into the heart of the village. At the Office de Tourisme, you can obtain a plan that goes from the Eglise Saint-Michel to the old Pont Suspendu via the keep, the viewpoint Saturday 26th July: Fête des Moissons (bygone trades, farm animals, indicator, the Saint-Pierre oratory and the EDF dam where over 200 species of birds thrive… wheat reaping as in the olden days, hitching up to tractors and And what can we say about the original and varied festivities (see below) other than they horses, baling, etc.) from 2 pm onwards at Rond-point de la Durance. are part of what makes Mallemort a must-visit destination! Saturday 16th August: Dance (place Raoul Coustet). Saturday 16th August - Friday 29th August: Exhibition of paintings by Noëlle Trinquier, “Empreintes artistiques de Noëlle”, at the Office de Tourisme. From 26th to 29th September: St Michael’s village festival. Sunday 28th September: St Michael’s aioli.

OFFICE DE TOURISME DE MALLEMORT 7, avenue Frères Roqueplan - 13370 Mallemort Tel.: 04 90 57 41 62. Email: [email protected] Website: www.mallemortdeprovence.com Open from Monday to Saturday from 9 am to noon and from 2 pm to © Dutranoy 6 mp. Open on Sundays from 9 am to noon (mid-July to mid-August).

Saint-Chamas | Saint-Chamas | Presenting summer outings in Saint-Chamas

The Saint- he dynamic team at the l’Of- cover or rediscover well-known Saint-Chamas landscaped footpath Suriane will present their wines contemporaries; in June, Calissanne fice de Tourisme in Saint- places from a new angle. “We recom- which earned a special prize last year. and host a tasting session on the second stone from excavations of the oppi- Chamas Office Chamas, in collaboration with mend the guided tour of the Parc de On the agenda is an hour and a half Tuesday of the month. dum at Constantine; in July and August, de Tourisme Tthe town council, is presenting la Poudrerie. It is a place steeped in spent exploring the heritage resources Finally, the Paul Lafran town museum ribbons and Arlesian costumes; in Sep- “Escapades Estivales” for the very first history and a lot of people wanted to of the town with a member of the will have visits on various themes. tember, quilting techniques. has set up time. This project aims to promote visit it and learn more about it.” So, Office de Tourisme staff (one Tues- In May, the subject will be Sayssaud, Definitely worth a visit... a brand new the region, the wildlife and country for two and a half hours, you can learn day per month). his love of landscapes and his project this year. side, and the traditions of Saint-Cha- as much about the site as its past, its The Marius Bernard canning plant and mas. “We have drawn up a program wildlife, and its plants (visits will be Domaine de Suriane will also wel- ESCAPADES ESTIVALES Discover presenting a number of sites in and on two Wednesdays per month in May, come visitors. A tour of the plant fol- Information and (obligatory) reservations at: around the town,” explain the orga- June and September and every lowed by a tasting of Marius Bernard Office de Tourisme 17, rue du 4 septembre the region, nizers of the event. Wednesday morning in July and August). products will take place on the first 13250 Saint-Chamas - Tel.: 04 90 50 90 94 the environment, This is an excellent opportunity to dis- Another guided tour of interest is the Tuesday of the month. Domaine de [email protected] the heritage of Saint-Chamas with“Escapades Estivales”.

27 Salon de Provence | Traditions | For the transhumant shepherd, fulfillment is out there… Every year, twenty students are trained to do this rewarding job at Le Domaine du Merle in Salon de Provence.

By Rémi Lacassin

ar from the image of a rough and ready farmer, alone in his pastures, the occupation of transhumant livestock farmer has become more and more professional over the years. Of course, appreciating the outdoors Fand listening to the birds singing is a good start but it’s not enough. You need a calling perhaps or, rather, a revelation … At Domaine du Merle, on the outskirts of Salon de Provence in the direction of the Alpilles, is a place where transhumant shepherds are trained under the supervision of the Minis- try of Agriculture and, more specifically, of SupAgro Montpellier. This com- plies with the wishes of the widow of a Marseille banker, who owned the property at the start of the last century. It is a place where you are taught by Transhumance la de Maison © experts, women experts.

“You don’t become an instructor overnight. You have to be credible. Perso- nally, I was a livestock farmer and shepherd, and a co-farmer in the Cevennes, migrating livestock to Mont Lozère and Les Menuires …” says Michelle Jal- let who has been in charge of Domaine du Merle since 2002 and employed there since October 1991. Her passion was one that developed over the years.

Like most of her students, she didn’t originally come from this background. A love of animals, respect for the environment, and an interest in nature, are the common motivating factors for the twenty or so students – often men (60% of candidates), aged between 18 and 45, town or city dwellers who already have work experience – for their year of training (1760 hours of theory and practice). “We start in October so the life-cycle of the ewes is respected. There are three stages going from wintering (8 months in the lowlands) to summering (4 months in mountain pasture). The lambing period takes the students behind the scenes, working intensively with farmers in the Crau Plain for six weeks,” notes Michelle Jallet, backed by Geneviève Andreis (former student, full-time shepherd and now a teacher herself) and Aurélie (for rural worker training, canal maintenance, agricultural technology, introduction to shearing, pruning of olive and fruit trees, etc.).

“In February-March, we head for woodlands and keep the herds in the hills with a dog in the Var, Ardeche, Gard, Alpilles and Luberon … Finally, in summer we go to the mountains in Savoie, the Alps or Mercantour…” Domain du Merle is one of four schools in France and is nationally and internationally recognized (this year a Belgian, an Italian and a German are enrolled). The agricultural certificate that is delivered leads to a nature-centric approach. “Being

© Maison de la Transhumance la de Maison © a transhumant shepherd is hard work and requires a sense of responsibility and observation but it carries great job satisfaction. You feel that what you are doing is worthwhile,” they tell us at Domaine du Merle where they maintain that fulfillment is out there .

La Routo, an initiative that is gaining ground The Maison de la Transhumance was created in 1997 and publishes documents, sets up exhibitions, creates teaching tools, nature trails, documentaries, seminars and other meetings so as to raise public awareness of transhumance, its history and its heritage. With fifty or so members, an enthusiastic manager (Patrick Fabre), and presided by a livestock farmer (René Tramier), the association is located in the first floor of Domaine du Merle. It brings together breeders, shepherds, transhumance workers, cultural and environ- mental professionals …“We have numerous projects in hand including one to develop a Euro-Mediterranean center for transhumance resources. In the future, we would also like to open a nature trail that has the fea- tures of the Crau Plain, and create a visitor center in a sheep barn at Domain du Merle..,” reveals Patrick Fabre, only too happy to talk about La Routo, a rather unusual long-distance footpath. It’s an idea that is gaining ground and that covers the main stages of the transhumance transfrontier route (420 km including 350 in France), from Arles to Stura valley in Italy. This is a major, symbolic project for a traditional activity that promotes food, woolen goods, traditions via an ecomuseum, permanent and touring exhibitions, various events, a local and pastoral product charter (ovine, bovine, seasonal fruit, cheeses, etc.) for restaurateurs. “We based it on existing paths with help from the Fédération Française de Randonnée and re- created the road taken by Piedmontese shepherds that came to the Crau Plain and the Camargue from the 13th century right up until the 1960s,” continues the manager, who hopes to see the entire La Routo way- marked within the next two years. Then it will be time to migrate the herds through the ages, or “take the road” as they say in Provençal and also in Occitan and Piedmontese …

28 communiqué Salon de Provence | Restaurant | Le Café des Arts where tradition meets authenticity ow that the fine weather is tables. New plancha preparations will back, Frédérique Le Penven, also soon delight the aficionados’ palates. the chef at Café des Arts, and Traditions don’t change just becau- Nher new team have just re- se there are new options and so food opened the terrace and it’s already lovers can continue to enjoy the set- a great success. She has decided to price menus as before: brighten up her menus with sunny • Plaisir et sourire (two starters or a chalkboard specials and fresh salad starter and a dessert at 14.90€), platters. These newcomers have • A starter and a main course at 15.30€, taken their place beside the ever-popu- • A main course and a dessert at 16.30€, lar regulars: “la poissonnière” with its and mini-starter, a slice of tuna or sword- • Gourmande at 25.50€ (starter + main fish (depending on the catch), rice course + dessert + glass of wine). and steamed vegetables and “la bou- And to round it all off, fruit is in the des Arts”, adds Frédérique who chère” also with its mini-starter, Let’s not forget the grilled meats and limelight with bowls of gariguette recently selected a new ice-cream menu meat from the market (magret, fish cooked in the large fireplace in strawberries and old-fashioned by “La Laitière” and who smilingly recom- beef skirt, flank steak), homemade the dining room, the freshly made homemade desserts designed to mends the “café coquin” served with fries or rice and steamed vege- fries, or the jacket potatoes with their enchant young and old alike such as a small treat and the “Yapadehon- chive sauce. the tarte tatin made with chocolate”, a selection of 7 mini-desserts with There is a meal for young- te-coated pears or peaches and ber- a coffee for 19€. sters too with a real ries. “Everything is a pleasure at Café hamburger steak, homemade mayonnaise, a des- CAFÉ DES ARTS sert (lava cake or a Smar- 20 place Crousillat - 13300 Salon de Provence ties sundae) plus a glass www.cafedesarts-restaurant.fr of something to drink for Café des Arts is open 7 days a week starting on 25th May 11€. for Mother’s Day. It is advisable to book in advance at 04 90 56 00 07.

29 “Qui a vist Paris se noun a vist Cassis, a ren vist.” (“He who has seen Paris and not Cassis has seen nothing.”) This clearly chauvinistic affirmation by Frédéric Mistral gives a fair indication of the interest of the geological phenomenon that marks the coast between Marseille and Cassis. However, due to fire risk prevention, the Parc des Calanques can be difficult to get to when the weather turns fine. There is, nonetheless, a particularly ecological means of viewing the landscape - by canoe or sea kayak.

By Myriam Léon

Marseille-Cassis At Sea

omparable to the Norwegian fjords, the calanques Snuggling into a lush rock fault and dotted with little houses, are named from the word “calanco”, “steep” en Pro- Morgiou is a small harbor that also has a family-style res- vençal. Carved out of the limestone over the last taurant. If you start here, it will only take you twenty minutes Ctwo million years, these cliffs stretch for over 20 km or so to reach Sugiton, another calanque. Sugiton is wil- between Marseille and Cassis. Deep canyons hem the sea- der and requires a good hour’s walk to reach the altitude ways as far as 4 km inland. Their incredible whiteness rises of 216 meters. Characterized by a rocky island called the towards the blue skies, chiseling creeks with dizzying views. “Torpilleur” or more poetically the “Cigne”, it is quite a busy The wildness of the hostile rock, where only limpet-like vege- place. While teenagers test their courage by diving from tation can survive, dives into enticingly clear water. Glit- the natural diving board, the sun worshippers spread out tering sun sparkles on the water entice you towards other in the creeks. Once you’ve gone round the “Tonneau”, a big treasures. rock at the foot of the cliff, you will find yourself in an area that cannot be reached by land if you are not a climber. Only Jewel of Provence and the Mediterranean, the Parc des Calanques the (too) numerous calanque shuttles, full to overflowing proves difficult to reach when the fine weather arrives becau- with tourists, can shatter your illusion of being an adven- se access is forbidden when it is hot or windy in order to turer and all alone in the world. Hollows reveal water of a prevent fires. Though some may complain about it, this effec- striking blue, the beauty of the place being enhanced by tively protects the site. There is only one way (and a par- excitement tinged with apprehension at entering places ticularly ecological one at that) to get the best of the land- where no man has gone before. Following the coast reveals scape – by canoe or sea kayak. This gives you an uninter- surprises all the way, passages and creeks that are invisible rupted view from the sea and lets you berth in isolated places. until you are upon them. On the other hand, if you want This type of navigation does not really require much expe- to take advantage of the view of the Esculape circus and rience but it’s nevertheless best to avoid putting two begin- see the red rock of Cap Canaille, all it takes is a few strokes ners together. A team like that could lead to accidents from to take you a little further out to sea. going round in circles. A swift initiation in the basic maneu- After the “Œil de verre” calanque is the “Anse des l’enfers” vers will teach you how to use an oar and avoid this kind then Devenson needle (just an appetizer) before going round of problem. However, this kind of boat, although more adap- the “Dromadaire” islet and passing the impressive Eissa- ted to fresh-water sailors, still requires all of the usual safe- don fault. The vertiginous Devenson cliffs are 250 meters ty precautions such as wearing life jackets and not going high and look like giant vertical church organs. This inac- out on days when the mistral is blowing particularly hard. cessible spot gives a fabulous view. Suddenly you feel tiny. It is ideal for exploring the ins and outs of this lace-like coast. The last stop is virtually inaccessible. The Oule calanque is A kayak or canoe will take you right into the grottoes and sheltered from the civilized world by a long cliff. Once past allow you to visit the faults in the rock in a silence likely the Castelvieil arch, you are liable to feel two contradicto- to stir your imagination. Callelongue is a calanque that can ry feelings – absolute wonder and an overpowering urge be visited by road as it is in the 8th district of Marseille. It’s to run away. En Vau is perhaps the most beautiful and cer- a tiny bit of the end of the earth leading to Cassis on foot tainly the best known of all the calanques. Topped by the as well as by boat. After just a few strokes, awestruck, you “Doigt de Dieu” and the “Petite Aiguille” that both accen- discover Sormiou. The coast slips by swiftly as you disco- tuate the majesty of the site, it cuts back into the cliff in ver the islands in the Riou archipelago. Stopping from time the middle of the pines. This magnificent place draws crowds. to time, you will feel as if you’re being rocked in a ham- After hours of practically solitary sailing, the urge to row mock just resting on the surface of the water, and the trip backwards and away is unavoidable. will not exactly be a sporting event. It’s all a question of taste. Given good weather conditions, the average speed of a kayak is 6 km per hour, roughly twice that of a hiker and with less effort. The trip between Callelongue and En CANOE/KAYAK HIRE: Vau can be done in a day, even if the more meditative tend Calankayak: 06 16 90 25 71 to opt to start from Morgiou. Provence Kayak Mer: 06 12 95 20 12 Raskas Kayak: 04 91 73 27 16 / 06 20 46 83 82 Yakaramer: 06 23 06 90 17 / 06 25 10 88 44 K6kayak: [email protected]