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GUIDE TO THE REGIONS OF ENIT GUIDE TO THE REGIONSOF ITALY

Trapani

Siracusa

Ragusa

Palermo

Messina

Vibo Valentia Vibo

Enna Sassari

Potenza

Reggio Reggio

Catania Oristano

Matera

otone Cr

Caltanissetta

Naples -Temple

Basilicata

Cosenza

Agrigento Caserta Ogliastra

Catanzaro

Sicily Nuoro

Calabria

Avellino Medio Campidano Medio

Carbonia-Iglesias

Cagliari

Calabria

Brindisi

Barletta--Trani

Terni

Bari

Perugia

Apulia

Umbria Sardinia

Viterbo

Rome

Siena Campania Isernia

Apulia Rieti

Prato Campobasso

Latina

Pistoia

Frosinone Molise

Pisa

Latium

Massa and Carrara and Massa

Abruzzo

Lucca

Teramo

Livorno

Rimini

Pescara

Grosseto Savona

Umbria

Reggio Emilia Reggio

L'Aquila

Florence La Spezia La

Ravenna

Chieti

Tuscany

e e

Imperia

Piacenza

Abruzzo

Tuscany

Parma

Liguria

Forlì- Varese

Emilia Romagna Emilia

Pesaro and and Pesaro

Ferrara Sondrio

Vercelli

Macerata

Bologna Pavia

Verbano-Cusio-Ossola

Piedmont

Fermo

Emilia Romagna Emilia

Monza and Brianza and Monza

Turin

Veneto

Ascoli Piceno Ascoli

Milan Lombardy

Valley Ancona

Giulia

Mantova Cuneo

Aosta

e Marches e Venezia

Lodi

South- Biella

Friuli

Adige Lecco Asti

Alto

Cremona ice Ven Alexandria

Como Udine

Brescia Rovigo

Bergamo Pordenone Padova

Aosta Belluno Lombardy

Aosta Valley Aosta -Venezia Giulia Friuli-Venezia Alto Adige South-Tyrol Adige Alto

ENIT CONTENTS

Enit for Italy throughout the world ...... p. 3 Italy, the land of art and history ...... p. 3 Italy, the land of wellness ...... p. 4 Italy, the land of excellence ...... p. 4 Italy, the land of culture ...... p. 5 Italy, the land of the Spirit ...... p. 5 Italy the land of lakes ...... p. 6 Italy, the land of the Riviera ...... p. 7 Italy, the land of mountain peaks ...... p. 7 Italy, the land of flavour ...... p. 8 Italian ...... p. 8 Food-and- itineraries ...... p. 8 Italy, the land of nature ...... p. 8 Italy, the land of sport and adventure ...... p. 9 REGIONS

Valle d’Aosta ...... p. 12 Piedmont ...... p. 20 Liguria ...... p. 28 Lombardy ...... p. 36 ...... p. 44 Alto Adige – ...... p. 48 Veneto ...... p. 52 ...... p. 60 Emilia Romagna ...... p. 68 Tuscany ...... p. 76 Umbria ...... p. 84 The Marches ...... p. 92 Latium ...... p. 98 Abruzzo ...... p. 106 Molise ...... p. 112 Campania ...... p. 118 Basilicata ...... p. 126 Apulia ...... p. 134 Calabria ...... p. 142 Sicily ...... p. 148 Sardinia ...... p. 156 PLACES OF CULTURE

Museums and permanent exhibition areas ..... p. 164 Theatres and auditoriums ...... p. 166 UNESCO sites ...... p. 168 NATURE AND ADVENTURE

National parks ...... p. 178 USEFUL INFORMATION

By air ...... p. 183 By train ...... p. 183 By ship ...... p. 184 By bus ...... p. 185 By car or motorcycle ...... p. 186 By bicycle ...... p. 188 Entry documents ...... p. 188 Documents required for driving in italy ...... p. 189 Safety and emergency ...... p. 190 Climate ...... p. 190 Embassies consulates ...... p. 191 Health care ...... p. 191

2 ENIT FOR ITALY THROUGHOUT THE WORLD In 1919, when ENIT got started, about 180 ty and, above all, the Italian lifestyle. thousand foreigners were coming to Italy as tourists. Nowadays more than 50 million vis- Italy, the land of art and history. itors cross our borders (source ISTAT), and Italy is synonymous with art and history. they also are driven by a desire to be edu- There is beautiful art everywhere and there cated at our exceptional academy of culture are countless and marvellous surprises in

Rome, Saint Peter’s seen from Ponte Sant’Angelo and art, to bathe in our seas, to enjoy every every part of the country. We have one of aspect of our environment and the flavours the greatest artistic-cultural heritages in the and scents of our land. Foreign tourism con- world. Italy has the largest number of ar- tributed to and increased the business of the tistic and documentary properties declared tourism industry, for which it now supplies World Heritage sites by UNESCO. Rome, more than 40% of the customers and ensures , , , , Pisa or Na- high employment rates. ples are only a few of the most famous art Thousands of Tour Operators do business cities in the country and there are absolutely with our country. New markets are aiming at lovely ancient towns and villages to be found our products for outgoing tourism. everywhere. This is confirmed by the statis- This is a great source of satisfaction for Ita- tics: 95,000 monumental churches, 40,000 ly. The National Tourism Agency is working fortresses and castles, 30,000 historic resi- every day at improving its image, convinced dences with 4,000 gardens, 36,000 archives that a country that is admired for its past can and libraries, 20,000 ancient towns and continue to exert the same intense magne- villages, 5,600 museums and archaeological tism in times of global competition, thanks areas, 1,500 monasteries and convents. You to three factors: a good quality-price ratio, a can travel to discover the private residenc- sustainable environment, excellent hospitali- es of old and noble families, to visit world

3 famous museums like the Uffizi Gallery in infrastructures and the breath-taking scen- Florence, the Capitoline Museums in Rome, ery make our “Bel Paese” (beautiful country) and the Brera Art Gallery in , and to see a perfect venue for congress tourism. Italy exceptional archaeological sites, like guarantees beauty and offers a wide range of and , where you can breathe in choices at any time of the year: both big cities the history of a thrilling and magnificent past. and small towns offer new, very high quality, And that is not all: many cultural, artistic and facilities for organising national and interna- musical events brighten up Italian life. Italy tional fairs and guarantee not only the purely constitutes a close-knit web of structures that business aspects but also the pleasure of a hol- live in natural communion between scenery iday in Italy. and culture, history and art, architecture and Italy is an excellent venue for a congress, a town planning: a thrilling journey from the meeting or a convention. There are many fa- times of and Greece until our cilities and congress centres scattered all over own days, just as rich in artistic and cultural the country, suited for hosting any kind of impressions. event. Prestigious and modern centres, with all the services needed for a successful meet- Italy, the land of wellness. ing: Italy proudly offers a selection of hotels, It is easy to be well in Italy. There are many structures and specialised services that ensure health and wellness facilities, dating back high quality service. There are very many thousands of years, which can treat both settings for a big meeting in Italy: ranging body and soul. Everywhere, from the North from art cities and Rome, the Capital City, to the South, you can have a different kind to thrilling Milan, without forgetting other of holiday, dedicated to general well-being, at places like Turin and , to mention but natural hot springs, famed for their excellent a few. There is no end to the choices because healing properties and for beauty care. There congresses and meetings can be held in the are ancient spa areas that have remained un- splendid locations of the Italian lakes, on the changed for centuries and preserve their orig- Riviera or in the mountains. The fact is that inal attraction intact: natural saunas, caves hidden among the vegetation, with very hot steam and a pleasantly irony scent, excellent for restoring the body and treating the skin. A holiday at a spa is always regenerating, thanks to the effectiveness of the treatments given and to the many services available but, especially, the charm of the scenic setting of the facilities. Italy has a number of spa desti- nations, well known and famous throughout the world: Saturnia, Montecatini, San Gimi- gnano, Abano, Salsomaggiore, Ischia, to men- tion just a few. A journey dedicated to health, beauty and fitness in peaceful places that offer every comfort. The wide offer of wellbeing and wellness centres in Trentino-Alto Adige, Umbria and Tuscany is worth remembering. Specialised structures that make use of the most up to date techniques and innovative equipment, with avant-garde treatments, to give you a holiday dedicated to fitness and relaxation. Italy, the land of excellence Italy is the ideal destination for the tourism business. The many international airports lo- cated throughout the peninsula, the adequate

4 Italy is simply the best choice. all over the world, organising courses at var- Italy offers prestigious and modern centres ious levels, for learning the language or for and events all the year round, throughout the discovering the depth and fascination of our whole peninsula. The artistic, cultural and culture and art. The typically Italian sense of natural treasures make the ideal background hospitality is a great help to foreigners who for incentive travel, because they guarantee want to learn Italian, including the most beauty and comfortable facilities. Industrial colloquial and commonly used expressions. archaeology attracts many visitors, who trav- Italy is the ideal place for a holiday dedicated el in search of economic, production, techni- to study and amusement and it can offer an cal and scientific features. In Italy there is an experience of cultural, and above all human, exceptional treasure trove of resources that enrichment. charm tourists and help them to understand the historic evolution of a given area. The Italy, the land of culture. big industrial centres, in both the North and For twelve months of the year Italy is the South, bear tangible witness to the economic cradle of unique, spectacular and interna- history of the country and of the Mediter- tionally important events. There are count- ranean area: from the big industries to the less opportunities for entertainment and for typical food production centres in operation experiencing intense thrills. Art exhibitions until not long ago, tourism dedicated to inspired by a millenary heritage, and design industrial archaeology is on a decidedly up- and contemporary art events, like the Venice ward trend and Italy is the ideal venue and a Biennale, alternate with theatrical and dance treasure waiting to be explored. performances. For lovers of classical music, Among the destinations that offer study hol- there is an unparalleled choice of festivals idays, Italy certainly stands out for the great and opera seasons, like in Milan or variety of options and the quality of stays. the Arena in Verona. Italy means music and There are many university centres, which ev- art in every form, but also more than that. ery year attract thousands of students from A full calendar of traditional and modern cultural events, like the many Carnivals, par- ticularly the Venice one, and the thousands of historic and religious events, endow Italy with fantasy and liveliness all year round. Italy is also a natural film set. The beauty of the scenery makes it an ideal background for any kind of production of the “seventh art”. From big cities to buildings, passing through incredible natural scenery. Italy is an inexhaustible network of art, cul- ture and scenery, of traditions and magic, of diversity. A country where thousands of events take place every day. Italy, the land of the Spirit. The heart of one of the most important cen- tres of world spirituality, for centuries Italy has been the destination for people for whom faith is the reason of life and who want to get to know the roots of a world that was able to create art, architecture and priceless objects. Some of the most important pilgrimage destinations in the world, places of devo- tion and worship are scattered throughout the country: from San Giovanni Rotondo, where Padre Pio lived and worked, to Assisi, the town of Saint Francis, with its wonderful Palazzo Nicolosio Lomellini – UNESCO World Heritage; (ENIT Photo Library) 5 Basilica and the Sacro Convento, to the sanc- tuary of Loreto, one of the most important and famous spiritual and cultural centres in Europe. But, of course, the favourite destina- tion for religious pilgrimages is Rome, capi- tal of Christianity, seat of the Papacy, where Saint Peter’s Basilica, the biggest Church in Christianity, is located. Another of the nu- merous destinations is Turin, where the Holy Shroud is kept, a relic with the indelible im- age of Christ after the crucifixion, which can be visited during the Ostension. Italy is a unique and favourite destination for people that want to travel along the his- toric paths of faith, like the , discover the many places of worship found in every region, or just make a spiritual journey in search of the country’s artistic, cultural and religious heritage. Italy the land of lakes. Italy has many lakes: in fact, there are more than a thousand incomparably beautiful ones, each with different characteristics. Lake Garda, Lake Maggiore and Lake Como, now famous throughout the world, have become ideal destinations for passing time close to the sun and to nature. The main lakes are per- fectly equipped and offer ample accommo- dation facilities. People can bathe from the beaches along their banks, which have every facility. In addition to relaxing, you can enjoy practising many open-air activities: there are plenty of water sports, like water-skiing, ca- noeing, windsurf, sailing and diving, and also sport fishing with international competitions. Sports like golf, horseback riding and moun- tain bike can be found almost everywhere. A holiday at the lake gives you the chance to get to know the surrounding area also, rich in history and traditions. The Italian lakes form delightful scenery, thanks to the exceptional richness of the eco- systems that have formed them over thou- sands of years and to the great development of many animal and vegetable species. The small Alpine lakes, quite common at high altitudes, are destinations for thrilling excur- sions in search of incomparable scenery. A microcosm of thrills to be explored, following The Sassi – the crypt of “The original sin” your instinct and your interests and enjoying UNESCO World Heritage (Basilicata APT) the scents and flavours.

6 dropping straight into the sea. A landscape with many picturesque and charming seaside resorts, and islands with wonderful natu- ral views. The variety of the scenery offers a wide choice of holidays that combine relax- ation and amusement, privacy and recreation. The wide, sandy and well equipped beaches of the Tyrrhenian coast are ideal for fami- lies, while the rocky coasts and little coves of the Ionian and Sardinian coasts are fine for people that seek a more secluded and wild- er atmosphere. The calm , with its big sandy beaches sloping gently into the sea, is the perfect place for families: children can play and enjoy themselves in safety. There Lake Maggiore: Isola Bella (Borromeic Islands Archi- are plenty of accommodation facilities every- pelago). Piedmont, Vergano-Cusio-Ossola (De Agosti- where: from luxury resorts to clubs that offer ni Picture Library) entertainment, amusement and every kind of sport, to family hotels that combine com- fort and friendliness, along lovely coasts, in romantic fishing villages, in villages perched on the cliffs with wonderful panoramic views of gulfs and coves. A holiday for experiencing intense and magical sensations, not forgetting amusements for young people, with discos and nightclubs in every . Italy, the land of mountain peaks. Immense valleys covered with greenery, love- ly mountain peaks emerging from the clouds into the blue sky, clean water: this means the Italian mountains. A perfect holiday setting all the year round. There are numerous tourist resorts and destinations where you can enjoy the wonderful experience of being in contact with the beautiful heritage of nature. From the of Trentino Alto-Adige, to the of Piedmont, from the Valle d’Aosta and Lombardy to the Alps of Veneto and of Friuli Venezia Giulia, and so on, going down along the Apennine ridge as far as the imposing profile of in Sicily. A holiday in the mountains is certainly an unforgettable experience. Palinuro, Parco del , “spiaggia del buon Italy offers excellent accommodation facil- dormire” in Centola (ENIT Photo Library) ities, ideal for a family holiday but also for activities and excursions by nature lovers. Italy, the land of the Riviera. The offer is very varied and can suit all tastes: Italy is the ideal destination for a seaside hol- hotels of various categories, hotels with well- iday. Seven thousand five hundred kilometres ness centres, Alpine huts, flats and apartment of coastline are washed by the waters of the hotels, everything needed to spend a moun- Adriatic Sea, the , the Ionian tain holiday with complete freedom, sur- Sea, the and the Sea of Sardin- rounded by wonderful scenery. ia. From the North to the South, stretches of sandy beach alternate with rugged coastlines

7 Italy, the land of flavour. Italian wines. Italy has always been synonymous with good The ancient called Italy “Enotria” eating: the most famous cuisine in the world (land of wine) because even in those far-off means a unique explosion of tastes, flavours times the peninsula was known for its excep- and fragrances and, more than any other, of- tional wines. It would be impossible to enu- fers an incredible variety of different dishes merate all the different typical productions and recipes in every municipality, province that have made renowned all over and region. the world for its variety and quality. Nobody should miss the taste routes, a jour- ney through Italian gastronomic culture, in Food-and-wine itineraries. search of ancient flavours, wholesome prod- Some of the most important elements of the ucts and simple food that are true to classic Mediterranean diet, the beneficial effects of cooking or offer innovative dishes inspired which are known everywhere, are and by tradition. The famous parmesan cheese oil. Italian scenery, from north to south, is Parmigiano Reggiano, Parma or San Daniele characterised by fields, which become ham, Modena balsamic vinegar, Ligurian pes- loaves of bread of various types and flavours. to, Campania buffalo cheese, Alba and groves, with their changing green, truffles and cold cooked meats are just some from sea level to the hills and to the lakes, of the products that make the “Bel Paese” the which produce quality oil. land of taste. And how could we forget or , which are synonymous with Italy all Italy, the land of nature. over the world? Natural parks of pristine beauty are the ideal Wine is the ambassador of Italian quality. setting for people that decide to spend a holi- There is nothing like the pleasure of tasting, day in Italy in close touch with nature. surrounded by its natural setting, a glass of Italy has unusually varied vegetation, which or Brunello di in Tus- is an unforgettable experience for the tourist. cany, of or Barolo in Piedmont, of There are many natural parks to visit: Gran di in Veneto, or of Paradiso, Circeo, Stelvio, Dolomiti Bellunesi, Lambrusco in Emilia Romagna, and then Gran Sasso and the Monti della Laga, Cilento there are the Sicilian wines and the white and , the Gargano, the Parks wines of Friuli and Trentino-Alto Adige, the of Calabria and Aspromonte, not forgetting great red wines of , just to mention the Maddelena Archipelago and the Tuscan a few famous examples. A world of flavours Archipelago, Vesuvius, and the . to try, for the pleasure of the palate, the eyes And there are still many other protected nat- and the heart! ural areas, reserves and marine parks.

Parmigiano Reggiano, a high quality product of Italian gastronomy (Emilia Romagna APT)

8 Without a doubt, the richness and variety of Italy, the land of sport and adventure. the Italian environment are the perfect set- There are exceptional opportunities in Italy ting for a holiday in touch with the energy of for people that like a holiday dedicated to nature, staying in friendly farmhouse accom- sport and movement: there are endless op- modation in a relaxed and quiet atmosphere, portunities to practise activities in contact enjoying wholesome food, in touch with the with nature, whether in summer or in winter, history and the environment and breathing in surrounded by unique scenery and landscapes atmospheres bathed in tradition. and backed by suitable and equipped struc- A holiday to discover, at any time of the year, tures that can meet every requirement. an Italy that is different and, in many ways, You can enjoy the sea in all its aspects: wind- still secret. surfing, kite surfing, swimming, sailing and water-skiing, backed up by operational ser-

Turin, hills and (ENIT Photo Library) 9 vices in the many ports, and marinas and nautical tourism services. There are infinite choices for people that like the mountains: in summer, trekking and walking or horseback riding, rafting and ca- noeing along streams and rapids, fishing in rivers and lakes with rich crystal-clear water; paragliding and hang gliding to admire the lovely scenery. In winter the mountains are transformed into a paradise for people that want to practise winter sports. There are also many options for cyclists. From mountain bike to downhill cycling, not forgetting road cycling through really lovely scenery and climbing mythical slopes. There are many itineraries for cycle touring, with various levels of difficulty, and you can stay at comfortable and practical bike hotels, equipped for accommodating cycling enthu- siasts. Italy is the ideal place for cycling, raft- ing, mountain biking, trekking and all the ac- tive and nature-contact sports, and even horse trekking along wonderful horse trails. At any time of the year, no matter what your preference is, you can have an incomparable holiday dedicated to sport in Italy.

Cortina d’Ampezzo (Bandion Photo)

10 11 12 VALLE D’AOSTA This is Italy’s smallest Region, Mediterranean to the heart of located in the north-western the continent to pass through. end, at the border with The administrative centre of and . There are the Region is Aosta, the ancient striking majestic peaks in this Augusta Praetoria Salassorum, mainly mountainous area, and founded by the Romans in 25 especially the highest peaks of B.C. The Valle d’Aosta is a true the Alps, like the Matterhorn, winter sports paradise, with Monte Rosa, Gran Paradiso many international customers; and “his majesty” Mont Blanc the Matterhorn, Courmay- which, with its 4810 metres, is eur, Pila, La Thuile, Champo- the highest in Europe: it is the luc and Gressoney are the best roof of the old continent. Situ- known resorts, popular with ated in the panorama of its im- skiers and snowboarders who, posing mountains and variegat- from November till April, can ed valleys is the oldest National have a great time with the var- Park in Italy, the Gran Paradiso, ious sports, both on track and where ibexes, chamois, eagles off track, amidst breath-tak- and marmots live in their natu- ing scenery. 800 kilometres of ral habitat, surrounded by typi- downhill tracks and internation- cal Alpine vegetation. al connections “on skis”, 300 ki- Historically, the Val d’Aosta is lometres of cross-country tracks, regarded as a land of contact and with rings for every ability and fusion between Italy and France, for various levels of sport com- a characteristic reflected in its of- mitment, and many ski moun- ficial bilingualism and its special taineering itineraries will satisfy status as an autonomous region. even the most demanding ski- The Mont Blanc tunnel and the ers, allowing them to enjoy the Great Saint Bernard tunnel, highest peaks in Europe to the which connect it with France full. On the other hand, for peo- and Switzerland respectively, ple that prefer activities more in confirm its role as a crossroads of harmony with the slow rhythms Europe, historically based on the of nature there is a wide choice Small and Great Saint Bernard of itineraries for travelling with passes (open to vehicular traf- snow shoes. In summer the Val- fic during the summer), a true le offers countless options for “North-West passage”, which everybody that loves open-air for centuries has allowed people sports: mountaineering, trek- and pilgrims travelling from the king, mountain biking, rafting,

13 gliding, hang gliding and golf. Its splendid natural at- tractions and the treasures of its culture and folk tradition, together with good quality accommodation facilities and delicious wine and food, make Valle d’Aosta a tourist destination for all seasons. A symbolic entry point for people coming from the south is the Municipality of Pont Saint Martin, from which the road leading into the lovely Valle del Lys starts. The 1st century B.C. Roman bridge. over which the old Dawn on Mont Blanc (Photo Roberto Andrighetto) consular road to Aosta used to pass, is an impressive ex- ample of the Roman influ- ence in the area. A journey in Valle d’Aosta immediately brings you face to face with the mighty Forte di Bard, a strategic Savoy garrison which controlled the road into the bottom of the valley; it is now the splendid seat of the Museum of the Alps and many successful exhibitions are held there. Along the val- ley leading from Pont Saint Martin to Courmayeur there are as many as 82 buildings, ancient fortifications, mili- tary fortresses, residences and watchtowers, bearing witness Ski instructors on fresh snow (Photo P. Celesia) to the region’s rich feudal his- tory, and other archaeological treasures that characterise the area: the Roman road of the Gauls, old in years but mod- ern in technique, which still characterises several stretches of the bottom of the valley, making them unique, scenic and charming; the bridge-aq- ueduct of Pont d’Aël, at the mouth of the Cogne valley, a masterpiece of the finest hydraulic engineering of the 1st century B.C., has recently been restored to the public with important innovations. MTB Bikers and a fox with Mont Blanc in the background (Pho- Not forgetting the great to Paolo Rey) 1414 Forte di Bard (Photo Enrico Romanzi)

15 Prato di Sant’Orso and Gran Paradiso Cogne (Photo Kondo) charm of the archaeologi- sight at any time of the year: to reach the many Alpine cal areas located at the Lit- whether practising your fa- lakes, the summer pastures tle Saint Bernard and Great vourite sport or just walking and the Alpine huts and al- Saint Bernard passes: back- along the paths that wind lows you to enjoy an unfor- grounds that are very special along the bottom of the val- gettable experience in close but also fragile and delicate, ley and up to the heights, contact with nature and the where only the discerning you are always surrounded by Alpine environment. The Alte eye can discover all the beau- spectacular scenery, which, Vie (high routes) of the Valle ty and importance of these like in a kaleidoscope, alter- d’Aosta circle the whole pe- age-old places of transit and nates plays of light, shadows rimeter of the region for more exchange. You will also see and colours reappearing in than 300 kilometres, running many castles, most of them many shades, always differ- along beautiful paths at the standing on rocky heights ent at different times of the foot of the most important overlooking the bottom of day. Every valley stretching 4000 m peaks of the Alps the valley. From the well out from the bottom of the and through the Gran Par- known Fénis Castle, with its valley towards the bordering adiso national park and the crenelated walls, towers and peaks is a world unto itself, Mont Avic regional park; the lovely central courtyard, to with its own scenic features athletes of the Tor des Géants the elegant Castle of Issogne, and its own traditions; each (an endurance trail competi- with its frescoes and charm- one is nevertheless capable of tion held every year in Sep- ing pomegranate fountain. meeting the many demands tember) run on them but the From the mighty fortress of of customers, thanks to the routes can be a unique expe- Verras, a true war machine existence of a vast range of rience for anybody, and each where epic exploits took accommodation facilities of person can take them at his place, to the mysterious Cly various types and of sports or her own pace and maybe Manor, with its crenelated tourism infrastructures that even on a mountain bike. walls, enigmatic tower and can host events and competi- Anybody can have a close lovely Romanesque chapel. tions, even at the internation- view of the mighty Alpine The greatest Alpine peaks, al level. circle and the beauty of the which embrace the area An ample network of paths glaciers without any exertion: and outline its borders, are connects with the adjacent a daring cableway takes you a unique and unrepeatable valleys and makes it possible up to the heart of the massif

1616 Trekking in Valsavarenche, Gran Paradiso and Ciarforon in the background (Photo S. Carletto) of Mont Blanc (it is not sur- have exhibition areas and a exploitation of vine growing prising that the experience is visitors’ centre: an absolute- in Valle d’Aosta has created known as the Eighth Wonder ly world-class feat of engi- a wide and excellent range of the World), reaching 3462 neering, a new technological of fine mountain wines, metres at Punta Helbronner. wonder on the mountains of grouped under a single Val- On some days the sky is so the Valle d’Aosta. le d’Aosta – Vallée d’Aoste clear that you feel you can Another unbeatable ex- DOC (controlled designa- touch the peak with your perience, accessible to ev- tion of origin) label, divided hand; the view is of jagged erybody, is to fly over the into 7 area sub-designations pinnacles and granite pillars 4000 m peaks in a hot-air and 15 vine sub-designa- in pastel shades. On the hori- balloon, like Phileas Fogg tions, which constitute a rich zon Europe’s famous 4000 and Passepartout in “Round panorama of vine growing metre peaks: the Matterhorn, the world in 80 days”. For and wine producing and Monte Rosa and Gran Para- wine connoisseurs the Valle have won important inter- diso. Along the way from d’Aosta offers the “Route des national awards. Among the the “Pavillon” intermediate vins” (wine route), which many, we mention Blanc de station to Mont Fréty, you takes the tourist through Morgex et de la Salle, Enfer can get into and walk in the vineyards and wine-cellars to d’Arvier, Torrette, Donnas, Nature Oasis, where the Sau- learn about the grapes that Chambave and Nus ssurea Alpine garden is lo- grow under what are some- Malvoisie. The “Cantine ap- cated. Among the highest in times extreme climatic and erte” (open cellars) event, Europe, the garden has over environmental conditions, held every year on the last 900 vegetable species of the at an altitude of up to 1200 Sunday in May, can be an spontaneous flora of Mont metres. excellent opportunity for Blanc as well as from other The particular climatic con- tasting the best of the local mountain areas all over the ditions of the Valle d’Aosta production and discovering world. The ascent with the – combined with the charac- its secrets. “Mont Blanc Sky Way” is teristics of the soils and their Valle d’Aosta is an area where simply not to be missed: this exposure, position and slope every aspect is still linked is the name of the new instal- – certainly have not made life with farming and tradition lation, which will come into easy for vine growers. Never- and its products are the result operation in 2015 and will theless the restoration and of the work of generations of

17 Roman theatre in Aosta (Photo Enrico Romanzi)

“montagnards” (mountain coffee, served “à la ronde” by Emperor Octavian Augus- people). Four PDO prod- (passed around the table) in tus in the year 25 B.C. ucts are made here: Fontina, a traditional “friendship cup” The ancient Augusta Praetoria Fromadzo, Jambon de Bosses in carved wood. Salassorum, a Roman out- and Lard d’Arnad. Fontina is post at the foot of the Alpine a fatty cheese made with full- Aosta passes leading to Gaul and cream milk and its sweet fla- the Helvetic provinces, still vour improves with ripening. The strategic importance of proudly bears the monumen- Fromadzo cheese is made of the city, which gained ground tal traces of its illustrious past: cow’s milk and small quanti- over the centuries, originates the arch in honour of Augus- ties of goat’s milk, semi-sweet from the rich and varied tus, symbolising the victory when fresh it is stronger if history of the region, which over the local Celtic Salassi ripened. Jambon de Bosses, has always been a place of tribes, the mighty Porta Prae- fine cured ham made in the transit and of meetings and toria, the main gate into the Great Saint Bernard valley, fusion between peoples, lan- city, with its double curtain originated in the 14th centu- guages and cultures. A land wall and central courtyard, ry. Lardo di Arnad is both closed and open at the the magnificent st1 century flavoured by the herbs used same time; a land that is A.D. Theatre and the lovely in preparing its brine. small and narrow, but also cryptoporticus, an unusual Moreover there are many big because it has no rigid and rare monument, which other specialties worth tast- and unmistakeable border originally encircled the sacred ing, like Toma di Gressoney but rather something like a terrace of the twin temples and Bleu d’Aoste cheese, goat “passing through line”. A re- overlooking the forum. It is cheeses, cured raw meats gion greatly influenced by the a city where the impressive or cooked meats (, harsh laws of the mountains monuments of ancient Rome Saucesses, Teteun, Jambon à yet instinctively inclined to- match the plain severity of la braise di Saint-Oyen) and wards contact with “others”. the mediaeval towers and also…. apples, honey and Aosta can offer strong and buildings and the basic sa- liqueurs, like the wonder- unexpected thrills and it is no credness of its churches. The ful “Genépy” also used for wonder it was known as “The Collegiate Church of Saints flavouring Val d’Aosta style Rome of the Alps”, founded Peter and Ursus dates back 1818 to the 5th century A.D., when ing the forum, which then every year in the old town it was erected over a previous became the site of an early centre on 30 and 31 January, late-Roman necropolis. The Christian community in the a great opportunity for enjoy- church was rebuilt in the 9th 4th century A.D. Rebuilt in ing the city, attracting thou- and 11th centuries, mixing magnificent style in the 11th sands of tourists even from Romanesque tradition with century, it was in its heyday beyond the Alps; the streets early Gothic influence. The between the 14th and 15th of the old town are decorated cloister is a real jewel of Ro- centuries. It has an impres- and display the most ancient manesque art, with its histo- sive façade decorated with Valdostan crafts, from wood riated capitals, each one dif- painted terracotta statues in carving to work in wrought ferent: real pieces of Sacred Lombard style and an ele- iron, soapstone or leather, Scripture carved into stone. gant cloister on the northern from wickerwork to weaving Beside the church stands the side. Many transformations wool and hemp, and “den- magnificent priory built by continued until the 19th cen- telles”, lace made on a pillow Giorgio di Challant, patron tury, when the present neo- typical of Cogne where that of the arts and humanist, classical counter-façade and tradition, dating back to the between the 15th and 16th the neo-Gothic chapel of the 16th century, is still handed centuries: a refined build- Holy Rosary were built. In down from generation to ing inspired by the stately mediaeval times the former generation. homes of the Piedmont and Roman towers were convert- For more information visit Lombardy area, but with el- ed into fortified noble resi- the following website: egant transalpine touches. dences: the Torre dei Signori www.lovevda.it The city’s main place of wor- di Porta Sant’Orso, the Torre ship is the Cathedral of Santa dei Balivi, the Tour Fromage Maria Assunta, built over the or the Torre del Lebbroso. remains of a domus overlook- The Fair of Saint Ursus is held

Walser trails on Monte Rosa (Photo Marco Spataro)

19 20 PIEDMONT

This is a region in the north-west But nature is only one of Pied- of Italy, bordering with Switzer- mont’s many attractions. land and France. The region has many other fea- As its name implies, Piedmont is tures: from Turin – the auto- the land of the mountains, sur- mobile capital of Italy – with its rounded on three sides by the history and its important artistic Alpine chain, which includes the heritage, to the other cities and highest peaks and biggest glaciers the various old towns including in Italy. Cherasco, Alba and . Monviso, the Piedmont side of And there are also charming Monte Rosa, and the other spec- mediaeval castles, especially the tacular heights, offer singularly majestic Ivrea castle, and fine ar- beautiful views; there are also chitecture, including the famous many ski resorts, including Via Savoy Residences and the Sacri Lattea and Sestriere, with ex- Monti. tremely up-to-date equipment, Acqui Terme and Vinadio are which attract lovers of winter historic spas, which provide care sports. and treatment for a wellness and Against the background of the relaxation sojourn. Alps there are big, picturesque Discoveries and surprises of every valleys, including Val di Susa, kind await visitors, including a Valsesia and Val d’Ossolo. wide range of food and wine to Quite different but just as love- suit all tastes. ly, is the view of the and The provinces are: Turin (ad- Monferrato: a series of hills plant- ministrative centre), Alessandria, ed with vineyards and dotted Asti, Biella, Cuneo, Novara, Ver- with villages and castles. bano-Cusio-Ossola and Vercelli. Instead, stretches of water and The first stop on a visit to the re- rice fields, long rows of poplars gion is Turin, with the Egyptian and ancient farmsteads make up Museum, one of the most im- the typical scenery of the plains portant in the world; the Holy that stretch out into the Novara Shroud, one of the most precious and Vercelli areas. relics of Christianity; and the fa- The tourist destination par excel- mous Mole Antonelliana, which lence is Lake Maggiore, with Stre- dominates the city landscape sa and the Borromeic Islands, en- and houses the National Cinema chanting landscapes and old villas Museum; and the Automobile surrounded by English gardens. Museum.

21 Reggia di Venaria Reale

The Reggia di Venaria Reale of devotion, scattered over ingly with architectural and palace is a splendid and fasci- the whole region: in Varal- naturalistic ones. nating architectural complex, lo Sesia, Serralunga di Crea There are many famous re- recognized by UNESCO, to- and Ponzano Monferrato, in sorts on the Piedmont side of gether with the other Royal Orta SanGiulio, Ghiffa and Lake Maggiore, like Ancona Residences of the Savoy fam- in Domodossola. with the colossal seventeenth ily, as a World Heritage Site. Some of the must-see histor- century statue of Saint From the Royal Palace and ic towns are Cherasco “the Charles Borromeo, Stresa the Carignano Palace in Tu- town of the starry walls”, and the Borromeic Islands, rin to the Hunting Lodge Savigliano with its many which have hotels, villas and in Stupinigi, from the Royal monuments, Alba and Ivrea. parks. Castle in Racconigi to Pala- Outstanding among the fa- The ski resort of Sestriere and zzo Madama in Turin: the mous abbeys are Staffarda, Via Lattea is one of the most visit to the Royal Residences a lovely example of Gothic important systems of winter of the Savoy family starts in architecture, and Novalesa sports trails in Europe. Turin and ends in the sur- Abbey, near Susa. There are also many nature rounding area. Also noteworthy is the Sacra reserves and natural parks, The Sacri Monti are master- di San Michele, a very an- including the Gran Paradiso pieces of religious architec- cient sanctuary in which re- Natural Park, which has gla- ture, richly decorated places ligious aspects blend charm- ciers, natural lakes and pro-

22 tected flora and fauna. wines and local products like Fair and “Cioccolatò”, the fa- Piedmont, with its wealth of the fragrant Alba truffle. mous chocolate festival, held natural resources and scen- If you want a holiday dedi- in Turin every year, but also ery, is ideal for a holiday cated to health and wellness local culture fairs and festi- dedicated to sport, relaxation you can choose one of the vals, like the famous Carnival and amusement and to alter- region’s famous spas, such as of Ivrea, the Asti horse race, nating recreation and visits Acqui Terme, set among the and many others. to the artistic heritage. lovely ruins of a Roman aq- The most typical specialties Set in the exceptional scen- ueduct. of regional cooking are fon- ery of the Alps, internation- Lastly, there are not-to-be- due and “bagna cauda”, dips ally famous resorts like Ses- missed cultural events and that make generous use of triere, Val di Susa and other important fairs, even inter- Alba truffles and raw vege- resorts also offer a wide net- national ones, like the Book tables. Also exceptional are work of trails for many kinds of sport: from steep downhill skiing to cross-country, from ice skating to snowboarding, while more adventurous spir- its can do rock climbing or go rafting in rushing streams. In summer the mountains and valleys offer trekking itineraries of various levels and some stretches of the Via Alpina with paths and equipped huts, from Monvi- so to the mountains around Verbania. There are many other open- air sports: cycling itineraries along the river Po and in the Vercelli area, mountain bik- ing along the banks of the Sesia, golf in various places throughout the area and also sailing, windsurf and canoe- ing on Lake Maggiore. Nature also offers journeys in search of the local cul- ture and other aspects of the region: for example, guid- ed tours of the talc mines, which influenced the history of the area, are organized in Val Germanasca, while the Sacri Monti offer pilgrimage routes through wonderful protected areas. Piedmont is an excellent place for vine growing, from Monferrato to the Langhe, to Astigiano, to the Colli Tortonese: the many wine routes lead to lovely scenery with stops at Monviso, Park of the Po (Cn) and cellars to taste

23 Saint Michael’s Abbey (To) the “gran fritto misto” (mixed (spiced biscuits), in Casale olo, Freisa, Grignolino, Bar- fry), “brasato al Barolo” “crumiri” cornmeal biscuits, bera, and . (meat stewed in Barolo wine) in Cuneo cuneesi al rhum “lepre in civet” (civet of hare), (rum chocolates) and mar- Turin and the wide range of chees- rons glacés, in Alba nougat, es: toma, robiola, bruss delle baci di dama biscuits in Ales- The itinerary for exploring Langhe, Novara gorgonzola sandria and Asti, and maca- the area starts in Turin, an and Biella sernium. roons in Novi. unusual city where moderni- Typical sweets can be found Lastly, two world-famous ty blends with tradition, rec- in every city: in Turin choc- products from Turin: grissini reation with productiveness, olates (unforgettable deli- () and . and historical heritage with cious gianduiotti, made with Piedmont produces some of the present day. from the Langhe the finest Italian wines for There are countless tour and Monferrato), in Novara roasts: Barolo, , itineraries: from the route biscuits, in Vercelli bicciolani Gattinara, Ghemme, Nebbi- through the historic cafés

24 Saint Michael’s Abbey (To)

Lake Orta, San Giulio island (Photo by Maggioni) Saint Michael’s Abbey (To) and elegant shops in Piazza and the Chapel of the Holy in the Galleria Sabauda or San Carlo and via Roma, Shroud, which is one of the the singular collection of to the , finest baroque creations but arms displayed in the Arme- containing precious relics also a very popular place of ria Reale. The mighty Porta of the ancient civilisation of pilgrimage. Palatina is one of the city’s the Nile, to the Automobile Notable civil buildings are few structures that date back Museum, symbol of moder- , Palazzo to Roman times, while the nity, and the National Cine- Madama and Palazzo Reale, Parco del Valentino has a ma Museum, located in the extremely valuable Savoy res- charming, but artificial, me- nineteenth century Mole idences. diaeval village, built for the Antonelliana, Turin’s iconic Turin has countless treasures world exhibition at the end monument. like the priceless works of art of the nineteenth century. Exceptional examples of in the Pinacoteca Agnelli, On the hills around Turin religious architecture are housed in the modern Lin- stands the eighteenth cen- the Renaissance cathedral gotto structure, the works tury Basilica of Superga, an

25 important Marian sanctu- ary, which also contains the tombs of the Savoy Family. Among the examples of reli- gious art set in magnificent landscapes it is worth visiting Saint Michael’s Abbey (Sacra di San Michele), a fine exam- ple of Romanesque architec- ture, the lovely mediaeval abbey in Novalese, the Ro- manesque-Gothic complex of Sant’Antonio di Ranverso, and the Abbey of Santa Fede in Cavagnolo, a Romanesque treasure in Turin’s Monferra- to. The Sacro Monte in Bel- monte, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a complex of exceptional, naturalistic, artistic and religious impor- tance. The province offers a full calendar of events: from cul- tural events, like the Inter- national Book Fair in Turin, to the feasts of patron saints, including the feast of Saint John in Turin, accompanied by a historic parade. Turin is also the capital of shopping in the elegant shops under the porticoes of via Roma, among splendid baroque buildings. For more information visit the following website: www.piemonteitalia.eu Food and wine

26 Turin Mole Antonelliana

27 28 LIGURIA In north-western Italy, on the glish gardens. The sea is so lovely border with France, lies Liguria, that it even attracts many sperm land of sea and mountains, where whales, rorquals and dolphins, the green of the Mediterranean which find their natural habitat, maquis alternates with the blue where they can live in complete of the Tyrrhenian Sea and sandy safety, in this area known as the beaches alternate with stretches “Cetacean Sanctuary”, The great of high, jagged coastline. The re- stretches of woods of Liguria, gion offers countless opportuni- with centuries-old trees, are a ties to whoever chooses this land true naturalistic heritage and an for their holidays: nature, sea, alternative to traditional tourism. mountains and culture, as well An immersion in nature to get to as fun and social life; you are just know and enjoy the inland plac- spoilt for choice. Liguria is syn- es, just as lovely as the coast. The onymous with the sea, with rocky Provinces are: Genoa (adminis- coasts and little inlets with lovely trative centre), Imperia, Savona, fine sand beaches. The Cinque and La Spezia. Liguria has many Terre and the Golfo dei Poeti, attractions, each with its own the Gulf of Tigullio, Genoa and charm, and some of them have the Golfo Paradiso, the Riviera been declared World Heritage of Palm Trees and the Riviera of Sites by UNESCO because of Flowers, constitute the famous their historic-naturalistic value. Ligurian Riviera which stretches One of the UNESCO sites is Ge- for more than 300 km. Liguria’s noa, a versatile city where ancient most famous tourist resorts are blends with modern, history with located along this route, where the contemporary, colours with the land and sea views are spec- shadows. It is a city closely linked tacularly beautiful: Portofino, with the sea, on which its econ- Santa Margherita Ligure, Rapal- omy has always depended, where lo, Sestri Levante with its lovely the culture, the places, the cuisine Baia del Silenzio, and Chiavari. A and the buildings still remind us succession of wide beaches, little of the ancient Maritime Repub- harbours and scenery, all wait to lic. An atmosphere that you can be explored and offer opportuni- still feel as you stroll through the ties for recreation in the evening. “carruggi”, the narrow alleys of Sanremo, the town of the flowers, Genoa’s old town, the biggest in with the Italian Song Festival and Europe. There is Via Garibaldi the Casino, elegant Bordighera, (Strada Nuova) and the Palazzi and Alassio with its fine beach, dei Rolli complex, an exception- Varigotti and Laigueglia are just al 16th century town planning some of the “gems” set into the project, once used for hospitality Riviera di Ponente. And also Por- for accommodating nobles visit- to Venere, with island ing Genoa. The “rolli” were the opposite it, and Lerici with the public registers from which lots mighty mediaeval castle overlook- were drawn to decide which no- ing the sea, the villas and their En- ble dwelling had to host the State

29 the little harbour and the typical tall, coloured buildings visits. Palazzo Spinola di Pel- ria’s UNESCO sites. coastline bathed by a splen- licceria, with the precious If you visit these places you did sea, which has always paintings by Rubens, Van will never forget the charm been this land’s primary re- Dyck and Bernardo Strozzi, and atmosphere of the five source. It is, in fact, the sea Palazzo Lercari Parodi, Pala- maritime villages of Manaro- that offers you thousands of zzo Campanella, and Palazzo la, , , different ways of spending a Podestà are just a few of the and Monterosso. holiday in Liguria, which can beautiful Renaissance build- Eighteen kilometres of coast- boast some of Italy’s most ings you can see when you line enclosing and preserv- beautiful protected areas: visit this unique place. A tour ing a little garden of Eden: the Cinque Terre, Portofino, of Genoa must definitely in- unpolluted sea, rocks over- , Isola , clude a visit to the Aquarium, hanging the water, rolling and it also has the famous one of the most complete hills with terraces planted Cetacean Sanctuary. This is and avant-garde structures in with vines, typical coloured where the highest concen- Europe. The Aquarium was hillside houses: all make up a tration of cetaceans in the designed by the Genovese ar- really unique landscape. And Mediterranean lives, and chitect Renzo Piano and is a then there are the islands of whale watchers can enjoy a sight not to be missed. Inside Palmaria, and wonderful experience by tak- in enormous tanks, there are located opposite Porto Ve- ing part in one of the many dolphins, seals, sharks, and nere, an ancient fishing vil- excursions that leave from multi-coloured fish from all lage. with its multi-coloured the coastal localities. A biol- over the world: a breath-tak- houses, nestling together ogist on board the boat gives ing sight for both adults and and mingling their colours information and news about children. The Cinque Terre, with the deep blue of the the life of the cetaceans and with Porto Venere and the sea. When you think of the explains the rules to be kept islands of Palmaria, Tino and Riviera you think of Liguria: for preserving their natu- Tinetto, is another of Ligu- three hundred kilometres of ral habitat. The seabeds and

30 , pearl of the wonderful Cinque Terre treasures of the Ligurian Sea the Riviera are ideal for peo- most important exhibitors in are well worth a “stroll” un- ple that like trekking. Rocks, the sector and many visitors der water to see an unusually valleys, streams and lakes, ev- from abroad also. When you beautiful scene. erything surrounded by the think of Ligurian cuisine you Even if you are not an ex- typical colours and scents of immediately think of the fa- pert diver you can enjoy this the Mediterranean maquis, mous , a tasty cold sauce wonderful experience by combine to form the beau- made of basil, pine nuts, gar- contacting one of the many tiful natural landscape of the lic, parmesan cheese, pecori- specialised diving centres Ligurian hinterland. There is no cheese, and extra-virgin that exist in all Liguria’s main no shortage of events, exhi- ; pesto goes well with seaside places. bitions and fairs in Liguria. (narrow flat pasta If you do not want to go The many happenings in- strips) or , twisted pasta into the depths of the sea, clude the Sanremo Song Fes- shaped something like wood snorkelling is ideal and is tival, in which the big names shavings. suited for all age groups. Ac- of Italian music and new Another cold seasoning is companied by specialised in- talents participate. During walnut sauce, used to sea- structors and fitted out with the song festival the Sanre- son the stuffed fresh pasta flippers, mask and wetsuit, mo Municipality organises a known as pansotti. , you can swim on the surface great number of cultural and filled with meat or borage, and see the beauty of these touristic events, to provide are seasoned with “tocco” a splendid seabeds, with their amusement and entertain- meat sauce made according variety of colourful flora and ment for the thousands of to a traditional recipe. And many species of fish. If, on people that flock to the City of course there is the seafood: the other hand, you prepare of Flowers every year. Genoa first and foremost capon ma- to stick to dry land, Liguria has been holding the Inter- gro, a very elaborate dish is a real open-air gymnasi- national Boat Show since containing fish and vegeta- um. The mountains around 1962, which attracts the bles; , marinated or 31 Pesto and its ingredients fried; (called “mus- cellent Riviera Ligure PDO Piano, handled the restruc- coli” in Liguria); fish soups extra-virgin olive oil and ex- turing of the area of the Old like ciuppin and buridda cellent wines like Ormeasco Port of Genoa, once used as a made from dried cod; and and Rossese di Dolceacqua, goods yard and now a tourist Baddalucco dried cod and , , Al- attraction on the Genovese brandacujon dried cod, both banolo and Pigato and also waterfront, which houses the typical of the Imperia area. Sciaccherà, an excellent pas- Aquarium, the Galata Muse- Meat dishes include cima sito wine from Cinque Terre. um of the Sea, the National alla Genovese (stuffed breast Museum of the Antarctic, of veal) or Ligurian style rab- Genoa the Bigo panoramic lift, the bit, made with the famous Biosphere, the Luzzati Mu- Taggiasca , pine nuts It is not surprising that Pe- seum and many other struc- and rosemary. The queen of trarch called her the “Lady tures of touristic interest. pies is torta pasqualina, filled of the Sea”. Considering that After passing through the with or chard, her history is linked to the “gate” to the city we enter the cheese and eggs. sea, we shall start getting to heart of “the Superba” (the Lastly we must not forget the know Genoa from its main “proud one” – a nickname , simple flat bread entrance: the port, one of the for Genoa), which contains known as “fugassa” in Li- Mediterranean’s main ports. many of its treasures in mag- guria, always delicious with Visible from far off and from nificent stately buildings. In olives or onions, and the far- any direction, with its tall the middle of the old town, inata, flat bread made from height, is the Lantern, Ge- in Via Garibaldi (Strada chickpea flour. Genovese noa’s lighthouse. Nuova), a UNESCO Site pandolce, fruit and nut cake, Inside it you can visit the since 2006, are the “Palazzi macaroons and canestrelli museum that tells its story dei Rolli”, striking for their biscuits are typical tradition- and gives guided tours: 720 architectural beauty and the al cakes. steps lead to the top of the treasures in the museums lo- But Liguria is also a land of tower, from which there is a cated in them. vineyards and of olive groves, wonderful view. The famous They include Palazzo Rosso, the fruit of which gives ex- Genovese architect, Renzo Palazzo Bianco and Palazzo

32 The Genoa Lantern and the Biosphere seen from the Old Port

33 Palazzo Reale

Doria Tursi, which together Veronese, Tintoretto, Piola, soro, interesting both because form an extremely interesting Vassallo, Jan Roos, Borgog- of its location and the value museum centre. Works by none, , Strozzi, of the artistic and cultural Caravaggio, Veronese, Guer- Carlo Bonomi, Guercino and heritage exhibited. We find cino, Van Dyck and Canova Van Dyck. The Cathedral the same two-tone decoration are exhibited in these three of San Lorenzo is situated on the façade of Sant’Agosti- places, where elegance and on the square of the same no, a deconsecrated church architectural quality combine name; its original nucleus now seat of the Museum of with the magnificent works dates back to the 9th century; the same name, with a rich of art to offer an excellent ar- it has been altered over the collection that shows the rela- tistic tour. centuries down to our time tionship between Genoa and Let us not forget that Genoa and is a magnificent sight: art between the 10th and 18th was the European Capital of the façade, decorated in typ- centuries. Culture in 2004. ical Ligurian artistic style, There is an interesting belfry Near Genoa’s Piazza Princi- with horizontal lines in white made with multi-coloured pe railway station you can (Carrara marble) and black majolica. Leaving the old visit the Palazzo Reale, the (slate from Val Fontanbuona town and heading east we magnificence of which is in the Genovese hinterland), come to Nervi, the last part striking: frescoes, sculptures, has windows with two lights of Genoa. Take a walk along paintings and stuccowork and several lights at the top the Anita Garibaldi pedestri- adorn the sumptuous rooms, and three entrances, with a an pathway, winding along elegantly furnished with very big rose window above the the coast above the sea and fine furniture. The Palazzo middle one. over the rocks, from which houses the National Gallery, In the interior, divided into a wonderful sunsets can be which, with a route through nave and two aisles, there are seen, even in winter, and 23 rooms, exhibits precious valuable paintings and sculp- from which you have a view paintings by Luca Giordano, tures and the Museo del Te- of the Gulf of Tigullio.

34 The big gardens and flowery lo, Santa Margherita Ligure the Ligurian Apennine area; fields of Nervi alternate with and Sestri Levante, charm- the Antola Park, containing elegant villas that house fa- ing places located along the environmental treasures; mous museums: the Gallery coastline, surrounded by the and the Portofino Park, fa- of Modern Art in Villa Saluz- greenery of the Mediterra- mous all over the world for zo Serra, the Frugone Collec- nean maquis, beautiful seen its beauty. tions in Villa Gramaldi Fas- from the land but wonderful For more information visit sio, and the Luxoro Museum when viewed from the sea. the following website: in the villa of the same name. Paths, bays, little beaches, www.turismoinliguria.it In the west, in the Pegli dis- cliffs, sea and seabeds: na- trict, you can visit the Mu- ture has drawn one of its best seo Navale in Villa Doria, a masterpieces here. In Golfo stately residence surrounded Paradiso, another little pearl by enormous grounds, and of the Riviera: Camogli, an Villa Durazzo Pallavicini, old fishing village remaining which has two great attrac- unchanged over the centu- tions: the Botanic Garden, ries, with tall houses, close laid out in its grounds, full together and coloured. of rare plants, and the Mu- The little harbour is very pic- nicipal Museum of Ligurian turesque: with the colours Archaeology. of the boats reflected in the The villa is surrounded by crystal sea, enlivened by the magnificent grounds, famous vivacity of social and holiday for the water features created life. by lakes, caves, streams and The Genovese hinterland waterfalls, skilfully inserted also offers interesting itiner- among the luxuriant vege- aries, with its natural parks: tation. The architecture of the Beigua Park (UNESCO the Riviera di Levante is fa- Beigua Geopark), the largest mous for the typical build- protected area in the region, ings clinging to the rocks, is like a spectacular balcony with their façades painted overlooking the sea; and, in pastel colours reflected in continuing towards the Sa- the sea, especially Camogli vona area, the Avero Park, and Portofino. Visit Rapal- one of the most beautiful in

Panoramic view of Portofino

35 36 LOMBARDY

This is one of the vastest Italian history, art and culture blend regions and it is situated at the harmoniously with innovation, northern end of the peninsula, technology, fashion, design, en- bordering with Switzerland. tertainment and modernity. Its territory stretches from the The provinces are: , Alps to the low Pianura Padana , Como, Cremona, Lecco, (Po plain) and creates a wide Lodi, , Milan (adminis- range of landscapes. The scenery trative centre), Monza and Brian- of the Alpine chain is particularly za, Pavia, Sondrio, and Varese. fascinating, with Valchiavenna, The region’s natural, artistic and Valtellina and . architectural panorama is ex- Lombardy has modern installa- tremely varied. The UNESCO tions and equipment for lovers sites are: the cities of Mantua, of winter sports in the areas of Gonzago, and the Tonale, Bormio, Livigno and “ideal town” of the Italian Renais- Madesimo, always very popular. sance; the Sacri Monti, a pilgrim- Another landscape typical of the age route in the Varese and Os- region is the stretch of hills, in succio area; the prehistoric rock particular the area, paintings in Val Camonica; the famous for its vineyards and its that crosses the wine. mountain landscapes of Albula And then there is the loveliness and Bernina: the nineteenth cen- of the great lakes. The western tury industrial settlement in Cre- side of Lake Garda, with Sirmi- spi d’Adda; , one and other famous places, is a with layers of Middle-Triassic fos- very popular tourist resort; Lake sils; the pile-dwellings around the Como and Lake Maggiore are ex- Alps; the Centres of Power and tremely beautiful, surrounded by Worship in Longobardic Italy; stately villas, parks, and charming and, lastly, in Milan, the church villages. of Santa Maria delle Grazie with The region is known for the big the fresco of the Last Supper by stretches of plain in the low Pi- Leonardo da Vinci on the refec- anura Padana, with stretches of tory wall of the monastery. water where rice is grown: this Also in the city, an important is the typical Lomellina land- piece of architecture is the alla scape, the land of the “mondine” Scala theatre, a famous opera (rice-weeding girls), with all its house. The magnificent, white folklore. marble Cathedral dedicated to This region has thousands of oth- Santa Maria Nascente (Saint Mary er typical features. nascent) is really wonderful. Favoured by its particular geo- Then, in Monza, there is the nat- graphic situation and the resourc- ural park that contains the ex- es of its soil, Lombardy is a par- tremely modern motordrome and ticularly rich land, where nature, the Villa Reale. Lastly, the Ca-

37 practising sport, resting and tour- ing the country- side. The Alpine peaks welcome ski and snowboard enthu- siasts in interna- tionally renowned skiing areas like Valcamonica and Valtellina, with the very popular resorts of Livigno, Bormio and Apri- ca and hundreds of kilometres of tracks of every level. In summer the mountains offer the thrill of Sirmione (Brescia): the splendid beauty of the Sirmione castle, with its battlement climbing on the suspended between the land and the lake. (De Agostini Picture Library) Adamello and other peaks, raft- ing, trekking and mountain bike routes, while the Stelvio glacier of- fers skiers daring downhill runs even during the hottest months. You can have a re- laxing holiday in the hills of Lom- bardy, thanks to the various spas with their healing waters, like the hot springs in Boario or Bormio, sur- rounded by mag- nificent grounds. Lake Garda, Lake Sondrio, Stelvio and Ortles Glaciers (ENIT Photo Library) Como and Lake Iseo ensure restful thedral, which holds the on in Cremona. and fun holidays, with the ancient “iron crown”, which Pavia is the city of the hun- possibility of practising sail- contains one of the nails of dred Towers, of the Viscon- ing, windsurf, water skiing, the Crucifixion. Particularly teo Castle and the University. canoeing, cycling, trekking, interesting, in Brescia, is the Varese is the “garden prov- excursions in the vicinity and San Salvatore monastery; the ince”. The mountains, plains boat trips. tradition of lute and violin and great lakes of Lombardy There are many itineraries to making, of which Stradivari- are the ideal setting for a hol- take you to see the most typ- us was the epitome, still lives iday in touch with nature, ical aspects of Lombardy: the

38 Sacri Monti offer exceptional spiritual and nature routes; in Valchiavenna you can find the traditions of a place that was the point of contact be- tween Italy and Northern Europe for centuries; the nat- ural parks of the area have many different types of scenery, all lovely, from the hills of Brianza to the green banks of the Adda river. Gourmands can travel the many wine routes, from Valtellina to Lodigiano, from Oltrepo Pavese to the Man- tua area, finishing up in the area of Franciacorta, famous all over the world for its spar- kling wine. This is an unusual journey through terraces and hills covered with vineyards, with halts at cellars and win- eries to taste the famous local specialties. The gastronomic specialties range from the great , to the Milanese-style breaded cutlet, to zuppa pa- vese (egg soup), to (casserole) with pork and cabbage, from Valtellina (short strips of buckwheat and wheat pas- ta) and bresaola (dried salted ), to Varzi raw salami, to freshwater fish, the famous lavarets, dried and grilled. The most famous and tasty Como, Villa Lombarda in Ossuccio (ENIT Photo Library) cheeses are gorgonzola (from the name of the town), mas- carpone (creamy), lodigiano are very famous, as are the of spires and statues started (semi-fat, hard), grana (hard, wines and sparkling wines at the desire of Gian Ga- similar to parmesan). robiola made in Franciacorta, and leazzo Visconti in 1386 and (soft, white), and bel paese the Bonarda and Barbera of finished nearly 500 years lat- (semi-soft). The Milanese Oltrepo Pavese. er. The most original angle (sweet Christmas for viewing it is through the bread) is world famous, but Milan windows of the extremely so are the amaretti di Saron- new Museo del ‘900 (twenti- no (macaroons), the Mantua Milan is Italy’s economic eth century museum) in the torta sbrisolona (crumbly engine, the capital of design Arengario building, which cake) and the Cremona nou- and the city of fashion. The houses the 20th century ar- gat. magnificent cathedral stands tistic masterpieces. The The Grumello, Inferno, and in the downtown Piazza del northern side of the square is Sassella della Valtellina wines Duomo, a Gothic sculpture bordered by porticoes, inter-

39 Milan, Roman Columns and San Lorenzo Maggiore (ENIT Photo Library)

Milan, Cathedral (ENIT Photo Library)

40 rupted in the middle by the entrance archway to Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, a very elegant arcade with exclusive shops. When you go through the Galleria you come out in , where the alla Scala theatre, the inter- national temple of opera, is located. Along the central via Dante you reach the Sforz- esco Castle, a military cita- del suspended between the and the Renais- sance, which is now a muse- um centre, which overlooks the Sempione Park, the city’s green area. This where, in the Palazzo dell’Arte, the Milan Triennale exhibition is held with its exclusive installa- Monza: Villa Reale (De Agostini Picture Library) tions, like the Design Muse- um. At the end opposite the castle are the Arco della Pace and Corso Sempione, with places where Milanese night life gets off to a start with the habitual aperitif and then continues in the Navigli area (the old network of canals built for defence, for supply- ing the city with water and for river transport), the hub of night life. There is an im- port antiques market in the Navigli area every third Sun- day, with displays of furni- ture, silverware, modern an- tiques and collectors’ items. The city’s silent and ancient face unveils itself along the elegant Corso Garibaldi, passing through Brera, the district of artists and bis- tros, and its picture gallery, which holds one of the most important art collections in Italy. Art and culture are present in many parts of the city, too many to compile into a list. Suffice it to men- tion the Loggia dei Mercanti and its ancient square, once Mantua: Palazzo Ducale, the wonderful ceiling of the Stanza degli Sposi by the hub of civil life, and the Andrea Mantegna. (De Agostini Picture Library) clever architectural arrange-

41 ments by Bramante in the of a castle and later restored ural scenery that surrounds San Satiro presbytery (a wall and enlarged. In Novate Mil- it: the Taccani hydroelectric on which the architect simu- anese, the Casa de’ Busti and station in Trezzo Sull’Adda lates the hollow of the apse) the Oratory of Santi Nazaro is an example. The castles are and the square tribune in and Celso (Gesiò) are exam- another treasure of the area: Santa Maria delle Grazie, in ples of a 16th century stately on the banks of the Muzza at the refectory of which one of home and an oratory. There Cassano d’Adda stands the the absolute masterpieces of is a very interesting monu- Borromeo d’Adda castle with the Renaissance is frescoed: ment in Abbiategrasso, the a history dating back to the the Last Supper by Leonardo church of Santa Maria Nuo- 9th century, where restoration da Vinci. Milan is also the va, the façade of which is work has revealed frescoes of city for high-class shopping, beside the big pronaos de- the Giotto school; in Legna- with the stylists’ ateliers in via signed by Bramante, while no, the San Giorgio castle Tortona and the boutiques of a few kilometres away, on a was built in the 13th century what is known as the “fash- hill overlooking the Ticino over a pre-existing Augustini- ion quadrilateral”, between valley, there is another inter- an monastery; in Cusago, the Via Montenapoleone and Via esting example of 12th cen- Visconteo castle is looked on della Spiga. Lastly, for a well- tury Cistercian architecture, as one of the region’s best ex- earned rest, we come to the the Abbey of Morimondo. amples of castle architecture. Public Gardens with the Nat- The mediaeval Abbeys in the If we take a look at the south- ural History Museum and Milanese area are very inter- ern Milanese area we may the Planetarium. However all esting. Chiaravalle and Mori- mention San Colombano al these riches should not dis- mondo, of the Cistercian or- Lambro and the Belgioioso tract us from the provincial der; Viboldone and Mirasole castle and Casalpusterlengo centres, which also have art belonging to the order of with the crenelated tower of treasures: castles, exception- the Humiliati. To the north the Pusterla with two over- al villas, abbeys and palaces. of the chief city, the Ville di lapping bodies. Then there Among the main ones are, in Delizie have incomparably is the green, arcadian Mila- Monza, the Villa Reale with beautiful grounds and nym- nese province, with winding its grounds and the Cathe- phaea; to the east of the city, rivers like the Adda, which dral. In Corbetta. the casa on the river Adda, art meets forms rapids and canyons in Corbellino, or Castelletto, nature and displays wonder- the area north of Trezzo, the is an example of a building ful examples of industrial Ticino, which flows through constructed over the remains architecture set in the nat- richly wooded land and past islets, protected by perhaps the biggest river natural park in Europe. Diked and often underground watercourses flow through the whole area, first thanks to the Mediaeval monks, who worked on and reclaimed the Po plain and then Leonardo da Vinci him- self, who lived here under the rule of the Sforza family and invented the system for regu- lating the level of water in the canals, the famous Milanese Navigli, so as to make them navigable. For more information visit the following website: Vittorio Emanuele Gallery www.turismo.regione..it

42 Lake of Livigno (Sondrio)

43 44 TRENTINO

Trentino is synonymous with landscapes. It is not surprising mountains and an unpolluted that the Dolomites were declared environment. The Dolomites, the a Wold Heritage Site by UNES- woods and the lakes are the real CO in 2009. protagonists of this land, which Quality of life. Trentino is an area stretches from Mount Adamello with about half a million inhab- to Mount Marmolada, as far as itants in an area of 6,202 square Lake Garda, encompassing some kilometres, with a population of the most important peaks of density of 83 persons per square the Alpine chain and a variety of kilometre, one of the lowest in really impressive landscapes. Europe, with more than 75% of Environment. With more than the territory situated at an alti- 17% of the province’s area pro- tude of more than 1,000 metres. tected by the three Parks, we can The quality of life of this area is well say that Trentino is nature’s well known. Dozens of classifica- ideal place. An area that has 300 tions, studies and opinion polls lakes, starting with Garda, a confirm this, with Trentino tak- Mediterranean enclave set in the ing first place among Italy’s prov- Alpine chain. inces for environmental quality, The woods are a distinguishing education, livableness and public feature of this land, covering a services. large part of the province with a A strategic growth factor is also total of 500,000,000 trees, about the particular administrative set- 1,000 per inhabitant, which sup- up – the only one of its kind in ply more than 40% of the coun- Italy – as an autonomous prov- try’s wood production. The real ince with important legislative protagonists of Trentino’s ecosys- powers that have given rise to a tem are the mountains: from the positive and deep-seated culture glaciers of Adamello-Presanella, of self-government and attention Cevedale and Marmolada, to the to the area’s needs. gentle slopes of Val di Non, they Culture. The first stage of an itin- are the distinguishing feature of erary through the area is Trento, this land and the engine of all its the city famous for having host- socio-economic dynamics. ed the Council of Trent, which Some of the most beautiful views started off the Catholic Count- of the whole Alpine range can be er-reformation, in the sixteenth seen here: from Campanile Basso century. to Paganella, from Cima Brenta The city is dominated by the to Sass Pordoi, from Catinaccio majestic Buonconsiglio castle to Torri del Vajolet, many names and the old town shows great. that have made the history of Renaissance influence, with the mountaineering and every year Piazza del Duomo, the 18th cen- attract many enthusiasts who just tury Neptune fountain, the Pala- cannot resist the charm of these zzo Pretorio and the Cathedral of

45 Saint Virgil, where the his- toric Council was held, while Rovereto, a city with con- siderable Middle-European influence, has the charm of a cradle of culture, where For- tunato Depero, a protagonist of futurism, was born. But the entire Trentino area offers an overall cultural proposition that is astonish- ing for its variety and com- plexity and makes the most of the particular features of each place. The network of castles stretches out from Buon- consiglio to all the valleys; Thun Castle likewise, the barycentres of the museum network are the MUSE-Museo delle Scienze science museum in Trento (which opened on 27th July last and is totting up record attendance figures) and the MART museum of modern and contemporary art in Rovereto, and the network stretches out from these two cultural centres to many structures. Sport. Trentino is known to be a great open-air gym- nasium and it offers many Hufton Crow Muse options for lovers of active holidays, in both summer and winter. In the valleys and canyoning on the riv- possibility of cross-country outdoor sports enthusiasts ers and streams. In winter skiing and ski mountaineer- can find routes for mountain Trentino offers more than ing, slow ways of enjoying bikes, with three big “rings” 800 kilometres of tracks, di- nature clothed in white. with tracks and woods, for vided between the two big Food and wine. Trenti- hundreds of kilometres; for skiing areas of Skirama and no offers “poor” but lively trekking, with three other Domiti Superski. Thanks to cooking, characterised by signposted and georefer- the avant-garde infrastruc- many cultural influences. enced routes, suited for all tures and ski lifts and to an The leading role is played types of form; for cycling, extensive artificial snow- by typical mountain farm- with over 400 kilometres of making system, skiers and ing products. Starting with cycling tracks; and for boul- snowboarders can enjoy the Trentodoc, the classic spar- dering and climbing. nearly 500 tracks distribut- kling technique of this area, Lovers of water sports will ed among the many winter to wines like Mazemino, find everything they need resorts, of which Madonna Teroldego, Müller-Thürgau, for sailing and windsurfing di Campiglio, Val de Fassa, Nosiolo, and the famous on the lakes of Trentino, also Val di Fiemme, San Marti- Trentino . Marked thanks to the steady winds of no di Castrozza are the most flavours with clear identity, Lake Garda, and for rafting famous. Not forgetting the ideal for tasting along with 46 Brenta Dolomites

tures and with traditional hospitality. It is not surpris- ing that, at the beginning of the 20th century, the aristoc- racy of the Austro-Hungarian Empire had already chosen this area as a favourite place for gaining new strength and being in touch with nature. This fact has had a positive influence on the hospitality of the local people for several generations. Today Trentino has more than 1500 accom- modation facilities, of which 87% are 3 to 5 star hotels, more than 400 farmhouse holiday facilities and high quality additional services, Lake Garda to suit every kind of holi- day requirement. There are other “highlights” of local this most northerly nectar many product clubs, offering products, such as lucanica in Europe. You can get to a wide range of proposals to , cheeses like Trent- know authentic and im- meet the demands and ex- ingrana, Casolet, Puzzone di portant places thanks to the pectations of different guest Moena and Vezzena, moun- wine-and-food and cultural targets. The 146 mountain tain trout and char, apples routes organised by the three huts, on the other hand, are from Val di Non. We must and Flavour an outpost near the most not overlook a pearl like Routes, which lead visitors beautiful peaks, combining the multi-prize-winning ex- to discovering these excellent Alpine scenery with a taste of tra-virgin oil made from the products. Accommodation Italian lifestyle. olives of Trentino’s Garda and hospitality. This area has For more information visit area; the lake’s mild climate always received tourists and the following website: makes it possible to produce visitors in avant-garde struc- www.visittrentino.it

47 48 ALTO ADIGE – SOUTH TYROL

Alto Adige/South Tyrol - The beauties of the cities and the typ- most northerly province of Italy, ical towns. The biggest cities are the land of three cultures (Ger- Bolzano/Bozen, the administra- man, Italian and Ladin), land- tive centre, and /Merana, scapes with striking contrasts the city of the hot springs. The (mountains, Dolomites and lakes smallest town is Gorenza/, with vineyards), a place of cas- with it mediaeval boundary walls. tles and farmsteads. Alto Adige/ The province is rich in history South Tyrol has a fascinating va- (nearly 800 castles and manor riety of landscapes and places but houses, countless monasteries also a very unusual lifestyle, half- and churches from every period) way between Alpine and Med- but oriented towards the future, iterranean. History has left its thanks to internationally famous mark heavily on this area down architects (Matteo Thun) and to through the centuries until the territorial management concepts present day. There is no doubt in harmony with environmental that what makes Alto Adige so protection (ClimateHouse). special and different is the peo- For lovers of sport Alto Adige/ ple. In fact, three cultures, three South Tyrol is like a unique open- languages and three lifestyles live air gymnasium: walking, cycling, side by side here: 70% of the horseback riding, trekking and more than 500,000 inhabitants mountain biking, climbing, but are of German mother tongue, also walking with snowshoes, 25% Italian mother tongue and cross-country skiing, snowboard- 5% Ladin. Because of its Special ing and tobogganing. Status the Trentino-Alto Adige/ The tourism offer reflects the vari- South Tyrol Region has divided ety of the area: hotels for families, its jurisdiction between the two for hikers, for people in search autonomous provinces of Bol- of wellness or of sports, or farm- zano (Alto Adige/South Tyrol) house holidays to live in close and Trento (Trentino). The area contact with the South Tyrolean is quite small (only 7,400 square peasants. Wine and food reflect kilometres) but full of contrasts the three cultures. Mountain from the point of view of land- land, border land, land of transit, scape, and also of culture and na- of alliances, of meetings between ture: valleys covered by wide ex- different cultures, of traditions panses of orchards, slopes planted and innovations, of intense fla- with vineyards and, higher up, vours, of typical and unique meadows and summer pastures products. As soon as he or she has until you come to the rocks, to crossed the historic “borders” of the peaks of the Dolomites – the county of Tyrol, the alert trav- UNESCO Heritage Site – and eller notices some characteristics the eternal snows of the glaciers, and peculiarities not commonly contrasting with the natural found in the rest of Italy: bilin-

49 the area’s typical products, processed and innovated ac- cording to the inspiration and modern inventiveness of chefs and restaurateurs whose roots are Tyrolean but whose mentality is open to the world. In cities like Bolzano/Bozen and Mera- no/Meran the variety of the food fully reflects the coex- istence of different cultures. The table becomes a meeting place. In a typical inn, bank Children, Rosengarten Group clerks sit beside peasants gual signposts (German and and sports events “catapult- from the valley and perhaps Italian, or Italian and Ger- ed” all over the world by the they both order a mixed dish man depending on the com- television. The gastronomy of dumplings and . ponent of the population, is a perfect example of coex- Nearby, the restaurant offers and trilingual with Ladin istence between north and very fresh fish cooked Ro- also in the valleys of the Do- south, between Austrian, man style. And what if the lomites), houses and farm- Italian and Ladin culture, be- person making the pizza is a steads with typical northern tween tradition and moder- former world champion of architecture, meticulously nity, with dishes and foods pizza makers! From the earth tidy and well-kept landscapes that reflect the whole deli- to the table, from the field to (sometimes the mountain cious variety of Alto Adige. the plate, the farmer’s wife is meadows look like carpets). In Alpine huts at 2,000 me- cooking, the farmer is serv- If you pause and satisfy your tres the flavours express the ing at the tables. Tradition- curiosity you will realise that altitude and the commitment al gastronomy, wholesome, Alto Adige is a very varied of people that live in close with strong true flavours, land, sometimes contradicto- touch with nature. This is the ancient skills handed down ry in many ways, but with an reign of freshly milked milk, with grandmother’s recipes, innate harmony that can be of cheese and yoghurt, of hay can be enjoyed in farmhouse felt in many places and situa- soup, of omelettes flavoured establishments all over Alto tions and in the people. High with cranberry jam. Whole- Adige. Every season and ev- mountains, where snow is some and simple dishes with ery valley reflects the variety eternal, contrasting with the a typical mountain flavour. and freshness of the moment: gentle slopes, where excellent The Dolomites are an “en- fresh white asparagus from wine grows, and with the big clave” of high quality cele- April to May; speck (cured valleys, which are the biggest brated cuisine linked with ham) which has just matured orchard in Europe. Villages with ancient churches and fountains, farmsteads with flowered balconies, Alpine pastures where the animals graze in summer, but also towns where, alongside the old town centres, modern ar- chitecture creates a link with the future. Centuries-old peasant tradi- tions carried on by the people naturally and sincerely, which coexist with thrilling cultural Winter landscape in the Alpe di Siusi

50 Lake of Caldaro, Castelchiaro in May; early vegetables in dishes, fit for a king, which and Schieva, by “Schlutzkrapfen”, big ravioli once again reflect the variety experts all over the world. filled with spinach, in June; of Alto Adige. Very special and unique fla- sweet dumplings with straw- Variety also exists in the vine- vours and tastes make these berries, apricots and plums yards of Alto Adige and is a wines winners over other in July; herbs from the fields very typical feature, which “international” varieties of with little nettle dumplings distinguishes Alto Adige grape ( or Müller in August; dishes with wild from many other vine-grow- Thurgau, among the whites, mushrooms (edible boletus ing areas. You will not find and Cabernet, among and chanterelles) in Septem- Tyrolean vineyards in the the reds). Exploiting small ber; October is time bottom of the valleys, but productions (e.g. , with plenty of wine and along the gentle sunny slopes Pinot Grigio and Pinot Nero) chestnuts; in November the of the valleys of Alto Adige and keeping “ancient” vines typical dishes of meat and and Isarco. The vineyards of (e.g. , Veltliner, pink charcuterie with pickled cab- are an exception be- ), is an attitude of bage. Alto Adige is also the cause they are planted on the respect also adopted in Alto land of castles. This is where Bolzano plain, in alluvial soil, Adige/South Tyrol towards you find the highest density where the particular micro- the typicalness and unique- in all Europe of castles, state- climate (cool at night and hot ness of the area’s products. ly homes and historic sites. in the day) ripens the grapes It is just a coincidence that Elegant places, full of roman- which then become one of the national and internation- ticism and history, are the the most esteemed wines of al markets have almost made background for dishes that recent years. Lagrein was re- them into a “fashion”. you can enjoy in one of the cently “rediscovered” togeth- For more information visit many castles converted into er with other native species the following website: restaurants or hotels. Noble of vine, like Gewürztraminer www.suedtirol.info 51 52 VENETO

Located in north-eastern Italy, tion for a holiday dedicated to Veneto stretches from the Dolo- wellness and relaxation, thanks mites to the Adriatic Sea, across to its hot springs with curative a wide belt of hills and a plain properties: on the soft hills of crossed by rivers, canals and the the Colli Euganei there are well Po Delta. equipped Terme Euganee centres The lagoon landscape is typical such as Abano Terme, Monte- of the Venetian coast and it is grotto Terme, Galzignano Terme, precisely on the lagoon that Ven- Battaglia Terme and Teolo, where ice, the most unique city in the treatment can be combined with world, visited by thousands of pleasant excursions in the envi- Italian and foreign tourists every rons. year, stands. The provinces are: Venice (ad- But Veneto is a region with many ministrative centre), Belluno, facets and even on the mainland Padua, Rovigo, Treviso, Verona it contains treasures of nature, art and Vicenza. and tradition. Veneto is a most attractive area The variety of landscapes is amaz- and offers countless natural and ing: the Dolomites embellished artistic amenities with some abso- by the pink shades of sunset, and lutely must-see highlights. the eastern shore of Lake Garda, The first stage of a tour of the from to Mal- region is, of course, Venice, a cesine through dozens of big and UNESCO World Heritage Site, small tourist resorts. And then with its lagoon, its islands and there are the long sandy beaches, its Grand Canal bordered by an- alternating with historic seaside tique, richly decorated buildings resorts like Bibione, Caorle, Jeso- recalling the splendour of the an- lo, Cavallino, Lido di Venezia, cient Maritime Republic. Sottomarina and Rosolina. Venice is also famous for its his- Set in this spectacular natural toric Carnival, for Murano glass framework there is a rich wealth and for Burano lace and you can of culture, which makes Vene- tour it on foot, along the narrow to extremely attractive, from art streets known as “calli” and across cities to magnificent “Palladian the many bridges, or else by boat, villas”, scattered along the Bren- either vaporetto (water bus) or ta Riviera, to little villages like gondola, carried over the water to Arquà Petrarca, Asolo, Borghet- admire unique scenes and views. to and Portobuffolè, and walled You will never forget Piazza San towns like Bassano del Grappa, Marco, with the Basilica and its Marostica, , Cittadella, Este mosaics and domes, the Doge’s and Montagnana, expressing the Place, the labyrinth of little most typical aspects of this mul- streets with their shops and craft tiform region. workshops, the churches decorat- Veneto is also the ideal destina- ed with paintings, sculptures and

53 frescoes, the museums and even the most out-of-the- way squares. Another site on the UNE- SCO list is the old town of Verona, an exceptional ex- ample of integration between Renaissance, mediaeval and Roman architecture. The city’s iconic monu- ments are the romantic Ju- liet’s Balcony, immortalised by Shakespeare’s tragedy, and the arena amphitheatre, which becomes an open-air opera house in the summer. In Veneto even nature is su- perb: the Dolomites were recently included among the Heritage Sites because of their special conformation and the lovely plays of light among their rocks. Bagnolo: Villa of the Pisani-Ferri family, Venetian nobles who loved This is an ideal place for ski- luxury on the mainland also. (De Agostini Picture Library) ers: an immense area with kilometres of tracks and well equipped resorts, especially exclusive and elegant Corti- na, the “pearl” of the Dolo- mites and one of the world’s most famous mountain re- sorts. There are many well equipped mountain resorts, where you can enjoy a holi- day in the high mountains in either summer or winter. Padua, a cultural city par excellence, has many attrac- tions, from the Basilica of Saint Anthony, a place of pil- grimage, to the magnificent Scrovegni chapel, a timeless masterpiece, completely fres- coed by Giotto. Its 16th cen- tury Botanic Garden, with many medicinal plants, is also a Heritage Site. The old town centre of Vi- cenza, characterised by the classic style of the architect Andrea Palladio, has been The Tre Cime di Lavaredo seen from the Belluno side (ENIT Photo recognised by UNESCO, Library) together with the wonderful stately homes built by him,

54 Po Delta, Rovigo (ENIT Photo Library) outstanding among which ing from Bibione to Rosolina you can enjoy the majestic are Villa Capra Valmarana is ideal for a seaside holiday spectacle of nature. and Villa Poiana, surrounded with physical exercise: beach Veneto has a great variety of by large grounds. volley, boating, surfing, water scenery and is a paradise for The region has many other skiing, and cycling through people that love sports and surprises for visitors, in Bel- cool pine woods and unpol- active holidays: mountain luno, Treviso and Rovigo. luted environments. And biking, trekking or Nordic Even the small villages are then there is the night life in walking; marathons or re- rich in history and culture the trendy clubs and discoes gattas… there is a wealth of and form part of the regional of the holiday resorts. choices! landscape. For golfers there are 43 ex- The attractive Po Delta and In the mountains, by the sea, cellent greens, not far from the other lagoon areas, dom- or on the hills, Veneto offers one another, with competent inated by the reflections of fascinating holidays close to staffs, in 8 golfing districts. the sky in the water and pop- nature, with sport, relaxation Nature lovers can go on ex- ulated by hundreds of species and pleasant surprises. cursions or itineraries in of birds, are a real paradise From the Dolomites to Les- Veneto’s protected areas. for birdwatchers and nature sinia, across the Altopiano From the mountains to the photographers; an oasis of di Asiago and Mount Bal- sea, Veneto has six protect- natural beauty where tradi- do, resorts that offer unique ed natural areas. Not so tion, culture and art merge experiences to winter sports well known as more popular and offer visitors a unique lovers: awesome downhill tourist destinations, these and surprising landscape; tracks for skis, snowboards environments still have wil- while the banks of Lake Gar- or snowrafts; climbing; trek- dernesses; places where you da, surrounded by typical king at any level; cross-coun- can experience landscapes Mediterranean vegetation, try tracks; excursions on and almost forgotten tradi- still offer many architec- snowshoes; and thrilling sled tions at any time of the year, tural and artistic treasures. dog runs. a world of genuine flavours The land is perfumed by the The golden coastline stretch- and warm hospitality where greenery of the olive trees and

55 Verona, the Arena: operas and rock concerts where gladiators once performed (De Agostini Picture Library)

56 Masks at the Carnival of Venice the yellow of the lemons. But belt of hills at the foot of the exceptional mix of resourc- this beautiful region also has mountains is the heart of the es, which makes the offer other small stretches of water Veneto Region. The area has abundant and high level. The and places where nature and delightful scenery, lovely old great choice of destinations history co-exist and they are villages and famous Venetian is an attractive feature, ap- all lovely: the lakes of San- Villas, a reminder of the love preciated all over the world ta Croce, , Agordi- the aristocrats once had for and closely linked with the no, Revine, Corlo and Mis. this area, where they chose to congress offer. There is a really wide range relax and enjoy country life. There is a full calendar of of options for people that Deciding to spend a holiday not-to-be-missed events, would like a holiday com- in the heart of Veneto can some famous all over the bining relaxation with even give you unique experiences. world, like the Art Exhibi- unbridled amusement. In The Veneto congress system tion and the Architecture Ex- the many spas, including the can offer structures, now hibition, which alternate and famous Terme Euganee, or completely catalogued and guarantee a number of really the spas of Bibione Thermae, registered, that can host any notable encounters and in- Recoaro or Caldero, you can kind of meeting and congress ternationally famous guests; spend relaxing holidays, with and meet specific require- the Carnival of Venice; art cures and beauty treatments, ments. One of the reasons exhibitions and shows; and to restore the right balance for Veneto’s great appeal to numerous religious feasts, between body and soul. The the congress system is the folk festivals and fairs, even 57 great architects of the period, including the famous Andrea Palladio. This is a real open- air museum, which you can also visit by boat or gondola along the Grand Canal, the city’s “main street”; it starts at Punta della Dogana, the ancient port of “the Sereni- ssima”, with its distinctive triangular shape, now – like Palazzo Grassi – used as a Centre of Modern Art. The Peggy Guggenheim Collec- tion, on view in Palazzo Ve- nier de’ Leoni, the most pres- Stra, Villa Pisani – National Museum (Venice) (ENIT Photo tigious art collection of the Library) 20th century, is a must-see. As you go on, you come to in the small villages. Vene- the artistic and cultural vi- other important museums: to is always beautiful, but it vacity that characterised, and the Gallerie dell’Accademia, is also tasty. The wine and still characterises, the histo- located in the imposing food heritage is based on 28 ry of this city. The heart of Scuola Grande de la Carità DOC, 14 DOCG and 10 Venice is the splendid Piazza complex, which includes the TGI wines, part of a pyra- San Marco, the most elegant church of the same name mid of quality that ranges salon in Europe, surrounded and the monastery; and Ca’ from wines with worldwide by priceless works of archi- Rezzonico, one of the most success, like Prosecco, Ama- tecture: the imposing Cam- beautiful Renaissance build- rone and Soave, to everyday panile and the Basilica with ings, which houses the Mu- table wines, exports of which its five portals and its marble seum of 18th Century Venice. account for more than 30 per and mosaic decorations – a On the right-hand side of the cent of total national wine ex- foretaste of the splendour Grand Canal, which you can ports. There are 35 PDO and and richness of the interior; also reach by crossing the Ri- PGI products and there are the Doge’s Palace, a symbol alto Bridge, you come to the others in the process of ob- of the heyday of the “Sereni- area of the sestieri (districts) taining the important EEC ssima” (most serene Repub- of San Polo, Santa Croce recognition: a real goldmine lic of Venice); the Torre dei and Dorsoduro, where there of genuine flavours, consist- Mori, better known as the are some of Venice’s most ing of more than 370 tradi- Torre dell’Orologio (clock famous “campi” (fields), tional food products. This tower) after the masterpiece surrounded by splendid re- wealth of products makes of engineering that has been ligious buildings and man- tastes, flavours and raw ma- telling the time in Venice for sions: San Rocco with one terials available for a cuisine centuries; and the Napole- of Venice’s ancient Grandi with hundreds of years of onic Wing where the Correr Scuole (confraternities) and history, capable of reconcil- Museum is located. Near- a church named after the ing territory, tradition and by is Campo Santo Stefano saint; the famous Basilica of innovation. and the church of the same Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Fra- name, one of the biggest in ri, one of the most important Venice Venice. From the square you Franciscan complexes; San Elegant, precious, inimitable, can see the island of San Gi- Polo; San Giacomo dall’Orio fun, romantic: this is Venice, orgio Maggiore and the tall with the church of the same the pearl of the Italian tourist campanile rising from the name in the centre, decorat- scene, where churches, pal- monumental complex of the ed with wonderful Venetian aces, ancient bridges, mon- former Benedictine mon- Renaissance works of art; uments and squares express astery, a masterpiece by the San Sebastiano, masterfully 58 Venice, Rialto Bridge (ENIT Photo Library) decorated by Paolo Veronese; of the most beautiful in the in the old Ca’ d’Oro man- San Pantalon; San Nicolò dei city; and the church of San- sion. And a circle of islands: Mendicoli, with one of the ta Maria Formosa designed Burano famous for lacemak- oldest churches in the city; by Codussi. If you continue ing, Murano for glassmak- and Santa Maria della Salute. walking along the calli you ing, Pellestrina with its sand From Piazza San Marco, should not miss a visit to the dunes and tall cane thickets, crossing the famous Bridge of biggest Arsenal in the world, and Torcello, one of the old- Sighs, from where you have a built during the 12th century est human settlements in the lovely view of the lagoon, you and later enlarged thanks to area. There are many ways of come to the Castello district Venice’s great political-com- learning about the glorious with its many architectural mercial expansion, and to past of “the Serenissima”. and artistic masterpieces. It the Scuola San Giorgio degli One of these, certainly the is well known that Venice’s Schiavoni, which has some most frivolous and carefree, is “campi” are historic squares, of Carpaccio’s most beauti- to go shopping in the typical often embellished by beau- ful paintings. In Cannaregio craft workshops and the ele- tiful monuments at their there is the Campo della Ma- gant boutiques. The famous centre and by imposing and donna dell’Orto, one of the Murano glass, the beautiful splendid religious buildings few remaining examples of necklaces of multi-coloured from which they take their ancient herringbone paving, beads, the terracotta or ce- names. There are many in- overlooked by the church of ramic masks, and the typical teresting ones in this district: the same name, decorated Venetian sweetmeats, are just the Church of Santi Giovanni by the Great Tintoretto, and some of the many ideas for e Paolo, where State funerals the Scuola dei Mercanti. An- gifts you can buy for yourself are held; the church of Santa other magnificent example and for your loved ones, as Maria dei Miracoli, a splen- of Renaissance architecture is mementoes of these unfor- did example of Renaissance the church of San Giovanni gettable places. architecture; the church of Crisostomo, Mauro Codussi’s For more information visit the San Zaccaria; the church of last work. A precious art col- following website: San Giovanni in Bragora, lection with paintings by the www.veneto.eu thought by many to be one Venetian school is on display 59 60 FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA

This region in North-East Ita- of Habsburg, Udine became the ly, bordering with and home of Venetian painter Giovan- , nestles between the Alps ni Battista Tiepolo, Gorizia was and the Adriatic sea and these two nicknamed “the Austrian Nice”, contrasting elements have shaped Pordenone is a blend of Roman, a varied and exciting landscape, Baroque and Gothic influences, where the Italian, Slavic and Ger- and nearby Sacile is known as the man cultures meet in this thrill- “Garden of the Serenissima”. ing melting pot of traditions, lan- Discovering the region’s artistic guages and faiths. and cultural treasures is made Pristine mountaintops, rolling all the more easy and convenient hills and blue seas are the frame- with the FVG Card, which allows work for this unique European you full access to all the main landscape, which has always been museums, historical and archae- the crossroads of different cul- ological sites and to take part in tures and peoples. A landscape to TurismoFVG’s guided tours of discover, which will amaze tour- Trieste, Aquilea, Cividale del Fri- ists at every turn. uli, and Spilimbergo. Elegant yet discreet, proudly Surrounded by some of the most beautiful but never flashy, the breath-taking scenery in this cities of Friuli Venezia Giulia are world, with karstic whites and a surprisingly eclectic blend of the intense blue of the Northern languages, cultures and religions. Adriatic Sea, Trieste has always This can be clearly glimpsed by been an important crossroads be- looking out onto the Molo Au- tween the Eastern and Western dace pier from Piazza dell’Unita’ worlds, thanks to the important d’Italia in Trieste (where on the role played by its port. third day of November of 1918, For centuries a city that belonged the first Italian ship docked, as a contemporaneously to nobody symbol of the annexation to the and everybody, to this very day , although the this cosmopolitan city survives city had to wait until 1954 to be- and thrives in an environment come truly Italian), or by taking a where different cultures, languag- short stroll with one foot in Italy es, religions and traditions meet. and one in Slovenia, in Piazza Udine, an elegant and sociable Stazione Ferroviaria Transalpina city, where refined architecture is in Gorizia. dotted by the rustic charm of the In these lands, the Celts, Ro- local taverns. mans, Huns, , Vene- This is the city that hosts the tians and Austro-Hungarians majestic works of Giambattista have all roamed, leaving behind Tiepolo, the last great Venetian their mark, which has taken root painter. The artist left behind sev- with the local traditions. eral masterpieces, most of which And so Trieste wore the colours can be seen at the Palazzo Arcives-

61 and mediaeval castle stand. Pordenone is an elegant city with a charming old town centre that is brimming with XVI century Palazzi, Ro- manesque churches, arcades, frescoed façades, Gothic and baroque buildings. A stroll down the Corso’s ex- quisite arcades, or a tour of the museums or temporary exhibitions, are the perfect way to immerse yourself in the local culture. Down by the sea, Friuli Venezia Giulia’s coastline is host to many treasures. It is the perfect tourist des- tination for families, thanks to a certification system for its tourist facilities and a special programme designed to accommodate the needs of younger guests and their parents. The summer in FVG fol- lows the beat of the excit- ing rhythm and glamour of Lignano Sabbiadoro, takes its naps in the peace and quiet of the Grado lagoon, and breathes the same fresh breeze as the fishermen in Marano Lagunare. Hem- ingway called Lignano Sab- biadoro “Italy’s little Flor- ida”, and it is certainly the Trieste - Castello Miramare (ENIT Photo Library) country’s summer capital in the North-East. Lignano’s nightlife is charac- teristically exciting, and its covile, but some even at the cultures (Latin, Slavic and wide range of stores and chic Cathedral and at the Galleria Germanic), and it is here boutiques make Lignano the d’Arte Antica, located in the where, in 2004, the last wall ideal destination for shop- castle overlooking the old between Eastern and West- ping and youthful tourism. town centre. ern Europe was finally torn Synonymous with liveliness, For those who want to dis- down. Sabbiadoro is, together with cover this city’s marvels on Habsburg’s bourgeoisie loved Lignano Pineta and Lignano their own, audio-guides and Gorizia and its mild weather: Riviera, a potpourri of sports bicycle rentals are available. which is how the city earned and wellness options. While Trieste is the region’s its nickname “The Nice of With an array of entertain- trade nexus, Gorizia is the the Adriatic coast”, thanks ment activities and the ubiq- real melting pot of Mitteleu- to its beautiful parks around uitous WI-FI, its beaches are ropa. This is the crossroads the bottom of the hill upon home to various windsurfing, for three main European which the ancient hamlet canoeing, water-gym and 62 Friuli’s Dolomites: the Campanile di Valmontanaia (Mario Verin)

Tarvisio (Udine) the Fusine Lakes (Marco Milani)

63 The beach at Lignano Sabbiadoro (Udine) (Massimiliano Zambelli) parasailing schools as well as Family tourism destination coastline is stirring with ac- low-impact aerobics lessons. “par excellence”, the city is tivity, with all the resorts in The range of tourist facilities most visited for its thermal full swing. There is the fas- specifically designed for fam- baths and water park, which cinating Sistiana bay with ilies, the many fun activities, includes an 85 metre long a view of Duino castle, and including six theme parks ergonomic pool with hy- the historic Pedocin, right and the coastline’s own fea- dro-massage, small waterfalls, downtown: the only beach in tures (8 kilometres of sandy thermal pools, trampolines Europe to still have separate beaches, shallow and calm and games. sections for men and women, waters) all make Lignano the Strolling down the elegant a relic of the Austro-Hungar- perfect destination for family streets of the old town centre ian era. tourism. is a must: its Venetian-style On the other hand, to expe- Famous for being the favou- architectural heritage, with rience Friuli Venezia Giulia’s rite spa destination of Aus- many narrow alleyways and mountains is to experience a tro-Hungarian emperors, myriad opportunities to try pristine and protected envi- the city of Grado is known the local cuisine, which fo- ronment, where a variety of not only for the beauty of its cuses on fresh fish. sports activities can be en- lagoon and its uniquely sun- Explorers and those who love joyed in both summer and ny microclimate (which has wild nature can hike along winter. earned it the nickname “city the rocky limestone coastline. Options range from the ma- of the sun”), but also for its The coast road that leads jestic Dolomites of Friuli, a sandy beaches, iodine-rich to Trieste is chockfull of UNESCO World Heritage, breeze and for boasting Italy’s breath-taking scenery and and the Julian and Carnic record number of Blue Flag thrilling views of the sea. Alps, with beautiful green beaches. During summer, the whole valleys.

64 Udine, Piazza Liberta (Luigi Vitale)

65 , Archaeological Area (Massimo Crivellari)

66 The region’s natural border, the Alps, are home to ex- quisitely beautiful mediaeval villages: like Sauris, a famous traditional food and wine destination of Friuli, or Valle di Resia, where the language and traditions of an ancient Slavic population have sur- vived since the seventh cen- tury, amidst a pristine natu- ral environment. Then there is the Tarvisio area, crossroads of three dif- ferent cultures and natural landscapes, surrounded by some of the most sought-af- ter peaks among European climbers. The mountains roll down to- wards the sea and the Grado and Marano lagoon, an area rich in biodiversity that spans 16 thousand hectares of land and sea, where tourists can still see the old casoni: hum- ble shelters that were once used by the fishermen of the lagoon. Nature enthusiasts will fall in love with Friuli Venezia Giulia’s three Natural Parks, 13 natural reserves and over San Daniele Prosciutto, from Friuli (Udine) (Ulderica Da Pozzo) twenty biotopes. Whether it’s in the form of white-water rapids of a their riding on two wheels, million bottles per year on a mountain stream to the slow TurismoFVG offers a large surface area of almost 20,000 thrill of rock climbing, ex- portfolio of MTB and road hectares, with prestigious la- citement is the keyword here. opportunities. Friuli Venezia bels sold worldwide and two In Friuli Venezia Giulia na- Giulia is also known for its crown jewels, the Ramando- ture and sport always go exquisite cuisine, and every lo and the Picolit; of course, hand in hand. Thrill seekers platter is enhanced by the au- let’s not forget the Friulano, and sports enthusiasts have a thenticity and quality of the the region’s flagship wine. vast number of choices avail- local products. Friuli Venezia For more information visit able to them: rock climbing, Giulia is a promised land for the following website: trekking, mountaineering, gourmet and culinary tour- www.turismofvg.it paragliding, gliding, MTB, ists, crisscrossed by food and horseback riding. wine itineraries that span There are a number of tour- from the mountain to the ist facilities with their own sea, by way of the rolling hills stables, which are the perfect of Collio. spot to go on a horseback This is a land of famous white riding tour along some of the wines, with eight DOC areas, most gorgeous trails in the three DOCG areas and two whole region. inter-regional DOC labels, For those who prefer to do 1,500 farms that produce 80 67 68 EMILIA ROMAGNA

With its wonderful territory and rius to the Arch of Augustus. In artistic, cultural and food-and- addition to the monuments and wine treasures Emilia Romagna works of art, visitors are always can offer holidays to suit every impressed by the big fairs, the need. Its central location is very crafts, the gastronomy, the the- convenient for people arriving in atre seasons and events to please Italy and makes it one of the pilot the keenest music lovers. regions of national tourism. Sun, All this wealth has also been ac- beaches, sea, mountains spas, art, knowledged by UNESCO. Three culture, active and food-and-wine cities are listed as Heritage Sites: holidays in Emilia Romagna all , a Renaissance city with have the same aim: to offer the its Po Delta; with the tourist maximum comfort, re- Paleochristian Monuments; and laxation, entertainment and cul- Modena with its Cathedral, the tural enrichment. From Piacenza Torre Civica (bell tower) and Pi- to Rimini there are thousands azza Grande. UNESCO has also of places to visit, art and culture recognises Bologna (Creative that should not be missed, the fla- City of Music); Maltesta Li- vours and aromas of really unique brary in Cesena (Memory of the cuisine, and countless opportuni- World); and then the Chiusa di ties for sports: on the beach, by Casalecchio sluice, the Abbey of bicycle along roads and tracks, on Santa Cecilia della Croara and the horseback or on golf courses. International Museum of Ceram- ics in Faenza (Messengers for a Art Cities, a special kind of hol- culture of Peace). iday through history. In Emilia Romagna art also means Lovers of beauty just cannot miss tradition. Like the tradition of ce- a stroll through and a visit to the ramics in Faenza, where there is big Museums of Emilia Romag- an important International Mu- na’s Art Cities: Bologna, with seum of Ceramics and more than its 40 kilometres of porticoes 50 ceramic art workshops. and the oldest University in the world; Ferrara with its mediaeval The Riviera, queen of seaside centre, the castle, and the Palaz- holidays, and the Notte Rosa zo dei Diamanti (where interna- (pink night) event. tional exhibitions are held); Byz- On the east of Via Emilia lies the antine Ravenna and its mosaics; Riviera, with millions of tourists the castles of Parma and Piacenza; who, for more than a century, the churches of Reggio Emilia; have been coming here for sun Modena and its Cathedral; the and wellbeing, sports and amuse- Malatesta fortresses in Forlì and ment parks. Rimini, queen of the in Cesena, and Rimini, which summer with its friendly beaches, also has great Roman monu- an old town well worth seeing, ments, from the Bridge of Tibe- and the Grand Hotel linked to

69 Bologna – View from above (APT Emilia Romagna Photo)

7070 not only has 16 Amusement Parks (including 6 Aquatic ones), 1426 bathing estab- lishments, 800 of which are equipped for beach games, 145 discoes, dance halls and disco bars, but it also has 18 tourist ports and mari- nas (with more than 5500 moorings). There are two highlights of the Riviera: The Notte Rosa (Pink Night) Ita- ly’s summer version of New Year’s Eve, and the Riviera Beach Games, the Beach Games Olympics, confirm- ing the propensity of the Riviera of Sport for active holidays. Food-and-wine, the “pearl” of regional tourism, with 19 food museums. Art, history, culture, sea, mountains, amusement and sports are the treasure of Emilia Romagna and in addition there is food and wine, which is the jewel in its crown. There are many gas- tronomic routes for gourmet tourists: Emilia Romagna, the land of Pellegrino Artusi, father of offers tourists the opportunity to travel along 2000 kilome- tres of gastronomic routes, Ravenna, mosaic in Basilica San Vitale Teodora thanks to the Wine and Fla- (APT Emilia Romagna Photo) vours Routes. Along these routes there are thousands of opportunities to stop at the myth of Federico Fellini, (Comacchio, Lidi Ravennati, Michelin-starred restaurants, is the landmark of the Emil- -Milano Marittima, visit wineries and farms, ia Romagna Riviera, with Cesenatico, Mare, cheese factories, ham fac- 110 kilometres of the best San Mauro a Mare, Bellaria tories, oil mills, farmhouse equipped and safest beaches Igea Marini, Rimini, Ricci- facilities, typical restaurants. in the world, gently sloping one, Misano Adriatico, and As far as products are con- into the sea, ideal for families Cattolica) become the reign cerned, Emilia Romagna is with children. of sport for all. Riviera also one of Europe’s leading re- In addition to all this is the means discoes, pubs, bars gions for PDO and PGI: it exceptional accommodation and restaurants. With hun- has 29 labels, ranging from capacity which has made the dreds of night spots, it is like Parmigiano-Reggiano to Par- Riviera one of the most im- a magnet for young people ma Ham, from Culatello di portant tourist centres in Eu- and a trendsetter for fash- Zibello ham to the tradition- rope. In summer the beaches ion and music. The Riviera al balsamic vinegar of Mode- 71 Parma, Soragna Castle (Emilia Romagna APT) na and Reggio Emilia. The eels. ing stable. In fact there is no most advanced techniques There are 19 museums ded- other area in the world like and the traditional wisdom, icated to some of the most Emilia Romagna, a region food culture, knowledge famous food-and-wine trea- that could even include the about the raw materials and sures and they tell us about roar of an engine among its the areas are the foundations their history, the complex symbols: in fact the best leg- of the teaching methods of and fascinating production ends in the history of motor- Alma, an International Ital- processes and lots of other ing are located on the historic ian Cookery School. Found- pieces of information. This Via Emilia: Ferrari, Ducati, ed in 2003, it is located 10 is a novel kind of tourism, Lamborghini, Maserati, De km from Parma, the heart which preserves and reveals Tomaso, Dallara, and Mala- of the Italian Food Valley, in an area’s culture through its guti. These are real triumphs the splendid Ducal Palace of typical food products. These of entrepreneurship arising Colorno. From September special museums also include in a region that has always to December Emilia Ro- Casa Artusi in , been on the cutting edge of magna hosts the Wine Food the first gastronomic culture technology. All this is Motor Festival, with a programme centre dedicated to Italian Valley, an enormous asset: of dozens of food-and-wine home cooking, and the Re- it has more than 188 sports events dedicated to typical gional in Doz- teams and clubs and racing and seasonal products. The za, a true “wine library”. stables, 13 museums, a cir- best wine and food is served, cuit of 12 private collections, from Parma Ham to Bologna Motor Valley, the only 4 motordromes and sever- Mortadella, from Lambrusco motor theme park in the al tracks. The most famous wine to truffles and chest- world. tracks need no introduction: nuts, not forgetting oily fish, When we talk about sports the Enzo and Dino Ferrari the Romagna (flat we cannot forget the myth motordrome in Imola (Bo), bread) and the Comacchio of Ferrari, the Maranello rac- the “Marco Simoncelli” Mi- 72 Modena, the land of motors (Emilia Romagna APT) sano World Circuit (Rn), the thousands of visitors every White and green Apennines Riccardo Paletti in Varano year with their permanent for a real nature holiday. Melegari (PR) and the recent exhibitions and theme ex- To the west of the Via Emilia addition of the Autodromo hibits. And GP motorcycling lie the gentle hills and restful di Modena in Marzaglia. enthusiasts should simply majesty of the Apennines, The Museo Casa Enzo Ferra- not miss the lap in Misano. with many charming routes ri, in Modena, and the Mu- The World Superbike cham- and spa traditions. The area seo Ferrari di Maranello are pions also race at the Misano is bordered on the north by a great success and attract World Circuit and at Imola. the great River Po, flowing

73 the silence of the woods. You can also try “ciaspoleering”, which means orienteering on snowshoes. And there are many other activities; from trekking along the ridges, to going through old villages or in search of animal tracks. Relaxation and wellness in 25 spas. Another of the pleasures of Emilia Romagna is the hot springs: there are 25 spas lo- cated in 19 different places: cures and innovative options related to wellness combine with excellent accommoda- tion capacity, offering stays where you are sure to “get fit”. The spas, with their cen- turies of experience and lo- cations between the sea and the Apennines, have curative waters with chemical and physical characteristics to suit many different needs. More and more people are paying attentiont to caring for their bodies, to relaxation and to healthy and sport practices. Nowadays we have moved on from the classic thermal baths to “wellness holidays” offering a wide range of treatments. Cures include Beach Volley oriental doctrines (including shiatsu, acupuncture, tai-chi and ayurveda), massages and east as far as the Delta. A na- best known ones are Cim- natural methods like chro- ture paradise waiting to be one (Mo), Corno alle Scale motherapy and vinotherapy. discovered. Because Emilia (Bo) and Cerreto Laghi (Re). In June the Spas in Emilia Romagna has a green soul Emilia Romagna has a total Romagna figure in the Notte too. Here we have forests and of 300 ski tracks. And for the Celeste (blue night), the big enchanted reserves and the children there are baby parks, annual festival when the spas Po Delta Park, with its beau- with plenty of inflatables, open until late at night and tiful landscapes and environ- moving carpets and amuse- there are promotions and en- ment. This is a region that has ments. Snowboarders can let tertainment. always taken care to protect themselves go on snow parks its territory and nature, and with series of hundred-metre Cycling holidays with bike the landscape, which chang- jumps. Then there are the hotels, golf and horse trails, es within a few kilometres, is high altitude mountain huts, for an active holiday. really thrilling. For skiers, the kite surf or ice-climbing les- Sports and adventure can region has 15 ski resorts, from sons, and snow-shoe excur- be found in every province Piacenza to Romagna. The sions, even under the stars, in in the region: trekking and

7474 Food and wine in Emilia Romagna (Paola Barone) mountain biking are prac- Emilia Romagna, the feather sands of enthusiasts from all tised on thousands of Apen- in the cap of Italian golf fa- over Europe every year and nine routes, canoeing and cilities since 1998, has com- the “Destra Po” route is a kayaking on dozens of rivers bined its golf courses into a unique experience for many and streams, equestrian tour- single circuit, coordinated of them. It consists of 120 ism on more than 30 routes, by the regional product club, kilometres of cycling tracks, there are 25 golf courses and “Emilia Romagna Golf”. starting in the extreme west another 20 including prac- Cycling holidays, thanks to of the province of Ferrara and tice or promotional greens. the Bike Hotels, attract thou- travelling east as far as the sea. The Via dei Parchi offers a new way of touring, with 500 kilometres from Berce- to Parmense to La Verna in Tuscany, passing through seven natural parks along the Apennine ridge that separates Emilia Romagna, Tuscany and the Marches. Through exceptionally beautiful nat- ural places the route passes through the provinces of Bo- logna, Reggio Emilia, Parma, Forlì-Cesena and Ravenna. For more information visit the following website: www.emiliaromagnaturismo.com Ferrara, Certosa (Emilia Romagna ALPT Photo) 75 76 TUSCANY

“There is only one place in the world – the values of a history that tells stories wrote Stendhal at the beginning of the and charms you and is reflected in the 19th century – where everyday life re- manner of Tuscan people, friendly and flects itself so completely in the sublime reserved at the same time, in love with in an admirable interweave of nature and their land, who have made daily labour, culture”. Art, culture, history and envi- crafts and care of the landscape into real ronment have always joined together in art forms. This land is the birthplace of an admirable balance among the gentle geniuses whose work has bequeathed hills of this area, becoming a true lifestyle matchless treasures on all humanity: based on quality, wellbeing and love of Galileo Galiliei and Giacomo Puccini, beauty. Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo Located in the heart of Italy, between the are but a few of the great masters of art Mediterranean Sea and the Apennines, and science. Visiting Tuscany is therefore Tuscany is a treasure trove preserving an unforgettable experience, discovering more than 50% of Italy’s artistic heritage, the homes of the great artists, the stately containing matchless masterpieces, mar- homes, the cathedrals of the faith, enjoy- vellous landscapes and protected nature ing nature and a land that contains more areas, a breath-taking sea and a maze of than 600 museums, 20 archaeological towns and little villages, which offer vis- parks and 7 UNESCO Heritage Sites: itors an infinite range of views and ex- the old town centres of Florence, Siena, periences. A land where you can restore , , the Piazza del body and spirit and get away from the Duomo in Pisa, the Val D’Orcia and the hectic pace of modern life. The deep co- 14 and gardens. Florence lours of the scenery, the smoothness of charms tourists with its gems, from the the marble of the churches, the aromas Middle Ages to the Renaissance: Palazzo and flavours of the food, and the sounds Vecchio and the Uffizi Galleries, the Ca- of a past that comes to life in historic and thedral and the Brunelleschi dome and folkloric re-enactments go hand in hand the Accademia Gallery with the statue of with long routes through the country David, in white marble brought by Mi- and the towns, beaches and mountains, chelangelo from Carrara, are only some in a continuous counterpoint of art and of the timeless masterpieces in the birth- nature, amusement and relaxation. The place of Dante Alighieri. Pisa astounds traditional feasts reveal how close in you with its famous Leaning Tower, in touch Tuscans are with their history and a square so beautiful that it is known as how much they love life. This culture “the miracle” piazza. Siena, the city of pervades music, theatre and contempo- the Palio horse race, is a wonderful ex- rary art and enables visitors to enjoy an ample of perfectly preserved mediaeval unforgettable experience. architecture. Lucca is outstanding for its almost intact sixteenth century walls, its Land of art and culture. old town centre and its villas, Arezzo for Tuscany is the place where modern man its Piazza Grande and the splendid fres- emerged through Humanism and the Re- coes by Piero della Francesca. All over naissance. The home of very ancient cul- the place you can see wonderful remains tures, cradle of western civilisation and of the civilisations that lived in this land; of the . Everywhere, the from the enigmatic Etruscans, on the traveller can be in touch with the enor- hills of Fiesole, a unique excursion for a mous historical-artistic heritage scattered lovely view of Florence also, to Volterra, all over the area, which can combine with its tuff walls, where there are im- beauty, wealth and variety and reveal portant remains, and the archaeological

77 Island of : magical beaches, little villages and fresh walks in the hills, make this island a corner of paradise (Livorno) sites of the necropolises on sive historic events animate was the reign of great dynas- the Livorno coast and in the Tuscan life all the year round, ties, from the Medici to the Grosseto area, to among which we mention: in Lorraine families, who were the tower houses and protec- Florence, Calcio Storico, a cos- splendid patrons of the arts tive mediaeval walls of San tume football game (in June), and first among the collectors Gimignano and Monterig- the Festa della Rificolona, a and noblemen that, over the gioni, to the villages of Chian- lantern festival (September), centuries, were either born ti and Val D’Orcia, the castles the Scoppio del Carro, explo- in Tuscany or chose to live of Casentino and Lunigiana. sion of the cart (Easter), and their, like Frederick Stibbert, Great architectural works that the Cavalcata dei Magi, ride Herbert Percy Horne or the recall Renaissance splendour, of the three kings (January); Actons. It is also thanks to like the Medici Fortress in in Siena, the Palio horse race them that Tuscan collections Livorno and the ideal city of (July and August); in Arezzo and museums contain such Pienza. There are treasures the Giostra del Saracino, joust unique masterpieces today. everywhere making old town of the Saracen (June and Sep- centres like and Pra- tember); in Pisa the Gioco del Flavour routes. to really unique; streets and Ponte, battle of the bridge, Wonderful wines, excep- squares become meeting plac- and the Luminaria, illumina- tional extra-virgin olive oil es and opportunities for dis- tions (June); in Volterra A.D. and countless typical prod- covering exceptional crafts, 1398 (August); the Balestro ucts, like cheese, charcuterie, where Tuscan artistic creativ- del Girifalco. crossbow con- meat and bread, accompany ity is revealed in the various test in ; and guests as they explore the articles. Parish churches, her- the Giostra dell’Orso, joust of area’s natural beauty spots. mitages and abbeys restore to the bear in Pistoia (July). The routes move along the visitors the value of silence The cultural events reveal the routes of wine, oil and fla- and contemplation, impres- love of art of this land, which vours, and travellers can dis-

78 San Gimignano cover the wealth and variety chitects, in typical taverns chestnut flour necci (crèpes), of the products and also get or Michelin-starred restau- spelt soup, and to know the context from rants and in wine cellars or Maremma acqua cotta (veg- which these vivid expressions farmhouse accommodation. etable soup with bread), fol- of the food and wine cul- There are more than 4000 lowed by tasty roast game. ture and tradition originate. beautiful Tuscan farms, This savoury regional cuisine Tuscany holds the record for perfectly preserved and re- is based on fresh and whole- wines certified by the Euro- stored, places of tradition some ingredients, which can pean Union (50 DOC and and wholesomeness where also be bought and tasted in DOCG labels including the the visitor can live in close the many local markets. great reds, Chianti, Brunello touch with the local people di Montalcino and Nobile di and participate in activities A plunge into uncontami- , and the his- like cookery courses, to learn nated nature. toric white, di San the secrets of a flavoursome This is the ideal place for Gimignano), and it has 24 and healthy gastronomic tra- a plunge into the pristine denomination of origin food dition. Among the most fa- nature that covers two- products, more than 460 mous dishes of Tuscan cook- thirds of the region, with typical products and more ery are steak in Florence, 3 National Parks (Tuscan than 3000 organic farms. (bean and vegetable Archipelago, Casentino For- There is an exceptional sym- soup), pappa al pomodoro ests, Tusco-Emilian Apen- biosis between the farms, ( and bread soup), nines) and 3 Regional Parks perfectly integrated with the (hot or cold bread (Apuan Alps, San Rossore landscape, the culinary tra- salad), crostini (toast) topped Massaciuccoli and the Park dition, the great wines and with chicken liver, tripe, and of the Maremma) as well high level tourism in search lampredotto (beef tripe) sand- as countless oases and pro- of flavours and aromas in wiches; then there are Sienese tected areas. The mountains their natural environments, cakes, Livorno (fish harmonise with the sea, the in historic cellars or ones soup), Prato biscuits served gentle hills and their white redesigned by famous ar- with vinsanto (sweet wine), roads and cypress trees, and 79 grammes on the Island of Elba to the Effetto Venezia festival in Livorno, and there are hundreds of fairs, cellar festivals and food-and-wine events. The mild tempera- ture enables tourists to enjoy the wonders of the Tuscan coast and countryside even in spring and autumn, when the atmosphere is ideal for walking, fishing, cycling and admiring deserted beaches, and maybe also paying a visit to the Aquarium in Livorno or to art cities. The islands of the Archipelago, the 7 pearls of the Tyrrhenian Sea (Elba, Capraia, Gorgona, Gi- Florence – Ponte Vecchio glio, Giannutri, and Pianoso, which can be with the urban trekking lages and sites of historic and reached from Livorno, Por- routes through parks, alleys archaeological importance, toferraio and Porto Santo and works of art. Bathed by like the Etruscan settlements Stefano), or the Argentario, one of the clearest seas of the in Baratti-Populonia, the Ro- are ideal places for diving Mediterranean, Tuscany has man and Villanovian finds in and snorkelling, while there an exceptional variety of en- Rosignano Marittimo, or the are very many places suited vironments on the coast also. San Silvestro archeo-mineral for sailing and sport fishing. Immense sandy stretches, park in Campiglia Marit- From relaxing to socializing, like in Versilia and the Cos- tima. Many big events are from the wonders of nature ta degli Etruschi, alternate held by the seaside: from to fashionable shop windows with the rocky promontories the famous Viareggio Car- and every possible sport, of Piombino or the Argen- nival, with its papier-maché there is an exceptional range tario, the uncontaminated floats, to the Puccini Festi- of choices to satisfy even nature of the Maremma and val, from the musical pro- the most demanding tour- the wonderful seabeds of the Archipelago with their rich marine fauna and fascinating underwater beauty. Also de- lightful are the scents of the Mediterranean maquis, the calm mouths of the and Ombrone rivers or the coast- al parks, like Orbetello and San Rossore. The Apuan Alps are really unique with the ex- ceptional whiteness of their marble, the comfortable well equipped beaches and adven- turous trekking routes in the mountains, the nightlife at the seaside and mountaineer- ing on the peaks. There are numerous picturesque vil- Island of Elba

80 Terme di Montecatini ist: amusement for nightlife and elegant sensory experi- ata are perfect places for lovers, games and exercise on ences (Chianciano Terme), winter sports (downhill and big well equipped beaches, which you can combine with cross-country skiing, snow- or the silence of small lonely walking and sports surround- boarding, trekking) and bays, the sound of waves lap- ed by unique landscapes, for other outdoor activities ping against rocky cliffs, the to regain harmony between (walking, horseback riding, beauty of wild coves, pine mind and body. In places rafting, canoeing and para- woods and the open sea, for like Bagno Vignoni, Rapo- gliding). If you enjoy ex- people seeking contact with lano Terme, Monsummano ploring wild nature on foot nature. And then the wind, Terme or San Casciano dei you should not miss the the waves and the underwa- Bagni, you can find sourc- Grande Escursione Appenn- ter environment, for people es rich in natural elements, inica (Gea) through the most not content to look from just springs whose waters, having beautiful forests in Tuscany. one point of view before en- tunnelled through the rocks, There is also an ample “un- tering the welcoming atmo- come into the light of day derground” option awaiting sphere of the harbours. and create wonderful natural you, with caves like the Antro swimming pools into which del Corchia and the Grotta Wellness and relaxation. you can plunge, restoring del Vento, in Lucca prov- More than 20 spas are the your health and acquiring a ince, and also Grotta Giusti, strongpoint of wellness in new balance between physi- a spa in a natural cave, or the Tuscany, with numerous well cal fitness and inner peace. In Maona cave in the Pistoia equipped hot springs, mod- these new temples of health, area. There is a selection of ern but with great histor- traditional cures are accom- routes over mountains, hills ic-architectural merits, which panied by treatments aimed and plains, for cyclists and offer not merely curative but at achieving a perfect psycho- motorcyclists, who can also restorative holidays, wellness physical balance. include a visit to the famous and beauty (Montecatini Mugello circuit. Between Terme), mud and sulphuric Outdoor activities. wellness routes and tastings, a water (Terme di Saturnia), Mounts Abetone and Ami- day on the green is a “must”.

81 Sant’Antimo

The gentle Tuscan country- d’Orcia were the background places, modern meeting fa- side is ideal for golf and there for Franco Zeffirelli’s “Ro- cilities, and villas and castles are 20 courses (one of which meo and Juliet” and for many offer the meetings industry has 27 and 11 and 18 holes), scenes in Ridley Scott’s “The and the guests unique expe- with challenging courses for Gladiator”; Chianti figured in riences in an exclusive cultur- expert golfers and greens for Bernardo Bertolucci’s success al and artistic context, with beginners. Every year contests “Stealing Beauty”; Florence’s craft workshops and elegant and special events are held in Arno riverside (Lungarno) ap- shop windows where visitors Tuscany, in which experts can pears in the typically English can find big and small mas- participate. Walking in Tusca- story of James Ivory’s “Room terpieces of local crafts, with ny is lovely everywhere, walk- with a View” and Arezzo’s Pi- articles in alabaster, glass, ce- ing slowly to enjoy the scenery, azza Grande in the really Ital- ramic, marble, wrought iron, urban trekking or discovering ian one of Roberto Benigni’s paper and leather, and design- the silence of ancient routes, “Life is Beautiful”. er fashions and fancy goods. like the 15 sections of the Via There are also three big outlet Francigena along which pil- Meeting in Tuscany. villages, connected with the grims and nature lovers travel Two international airports, centre of Florence by shuttle on the way to Rome. Pisa and Florence, high-speed bus, excellent for buying the rail connections with Rome, best labels at reasonable pric- Just like a film. Milan and Venice, and a wide es. A network of information The traveller in Tuscany plays and varied range of accom- and accommodation offices is the leading role, travelling modation options combine to at the disposal of the travel- along the roads and admiring make Tuscany an ideal venue ler both in the cities and the landscapes and views that have for national and interna- main tourist resorts. They served as ideal locations for tional events, working meet- join with Tuscany’s tour oper- countless famous feature films ings, special occasions like ators to welcome you. and TV series, video clips and weddings and major events. For more information visit spots. To mention just a few: Stimulating environments, the following website: the gentle slopes of the Val unique atmospheres in fine www.turismo.intoscana.it

82 A typical Tuscan alley 83 84 UMBRIA Pristine and varied landscapes are the middle ages, and its cathedral, the Palazzo framework to stunningly verdant valleys: dei Consoli (which is the city’s symbol), this is Umbria, a region that never ceas- and the Palazzo Ducale, all stand perfectly es to amaze. This is a land of rolling hills, preserved as a clear testimony to the city’s mountains and valleys, divided by the history. Tourists come to Gubbio not only river , which crosses the region from for its monuments, but also for its spectac- North to South. ular folk festival, with the Corsa dei Ceri Located smack dab in the middle of “the (the race of the candles), which for centu- boot”, this is Italy’s only landlocked re- ries has been held every May the fifteenth. gion that does not border with a foreign Other fascinating places in Umbria in- country. Here is located the Trasimeno clude Orvieto, one of the most important Lake, ’s largest lake, around , with its Cathedral, which which many historic sites are located, par- is one of Italy’s Gothic masterpieces, and ticularly in the areas near Castiglione del the Pozzo di San Patrizio (Saint Patrick’s Lago and Tuoro (where Hannibal’s battle well), a masterpiece of hydraulic engineer- was fought), which overlook the lake, and ing around which two helicoidal staircases possess a romantically peaceful beauty. descend, without ever touching each oth- Aside from the two lakes (Trasimeno and er, a total of 248 steps, to reach the water Piediluco), the region is also home to the located at a depth of -62 metres. Nera river, which feeds the delle Marmore Let’s not forget , city of the Duke- waterfall, located near Terni, and which is dom of Lombardy, with its thousand years Europe’s highest waterfall, with an impres- of history, and its well preserved mediaeval sive 165 metres. The area is surrounded by and Renaissance architecture. Its stone- exuberant greenery and is a favourite des- lined narrow streets and its beautiful mon- tination of canoers, kayakers and more. uments are the perfect backdrop for pres- Curious and attentive tourists definite- tigious international cultural events like ly won’t want to miss two archaeological the Festival dei due Mondi (Festival of the gems also located near Terni: Carsulae, two worlds), which is a great opportunity an ancient Roman city of unique charm, to immerse yourself in an atmosphere of crossed by the Flaminia road, and where high art. Art and spirituality will make for many beautiful monuments and buildings an enchanting visit to the mediaeval city stand. The second is the fossilized forest of Assisi, a Heritage Site, for it “represents of Dunarobba, a rare example of an an- a masterpiece of human creative genius”. cient forest from three million years ago; The whole city is like a monument to its tree trunks are surprisingly well preserved, most illustrious citizen, Saint Francis, Ita- standing amidst a vaguely lunar landscape. ly’s patron saint: from the Basilica dedicat- Umbria’s provinces are: Perugia (the cap- ed to him, to the Saint’s tomb and a series ital) and Terni. Umbria’s charm springs of frescoes by Giotto, to the Eremo delle from its natural and artistic marvels, from Carceri, right outside the city’s gate, where the peace and serenity inspired by its re- Saint Francis would often go to pray. naissance masterpieces and its mediaeval Assisi is a welcoming and cheerful city towns built on its foothills. and its people are always keen to share Undoubtedly, Gubbio is one of the most with outsiders their local traditions, such charming mediaeval towns. Its era of max- as Calendimaggio, a marvellous historic imum splendour was precisely during the re-enactment that transforms the whole

85 Norcia. The Via di Francesco itinerary is done on foot, and takes you through beautiful landscapes that spread out as far as the eye can see, on a journey that is both intimate and social, as you will meet other friendly pilgrims along the way. Along the itinerary there are a number of hotel facilities that will ensure you have a comfortable stay. Other itineraries focus on different areas of life, such as the bond between the people and the land; itineraries such as the famous “wine routes”, which stimulate all of your five senses through an inter- esting combination of na- ture, flavours and fragrances, awakening within you the memories of times forgotten. Aside from wine tastings, these areas are the perfect opportunity to taste tradi- tional platters and visit crafts shops where ceramics, glass and wood are used to create works of art that stem from ancient traditions. Umbria is Spello: a whole night’s work to create the magnificent flower carpet in also the perfect place to visit honour of the Corpus Christi religious celebration. oil mills, where the exquisite PDO extra-virgin olive oil is produced. A small land city into an ancient mediae- tourist destination. with bold flavours, Umbria val town filled with knights Set right in the heart of Ita- will satisfy even the most de- and damsels, archers and flag ly’s greenery, Umbria is the manding palates: those who bearers from a bygone age. ideal place for nature lov- love meat will want to taste Perugia, Umbria’s capital ers. Thanks to its myriad the pork, used for preparing city, has ancient origins both cycling tourism itineraries, the most delicious , Etruscan and Roman. The it is the perfect opportuni- prosciuttos and other cold high city is perched upon ty to explore forests, castles, cuts, the most exquisitely the hilltop, connecting to the sanctuaries, and even Assi- famous are the ones pre- various mediaeval wards and si, Spello and the foothills pared in Norcia, which you quarters. The historic city of Mount Subasio, all atop should savour with salt-free centre is chockfull of master- your trusty MTB. Anoth- bread, to fully appreciate the pieces of art and architecture, er fascinating itinerary that taste. Then there is also the with some of Italy’s best mu- will take you back in time delicious Chianina beef, pre- seums. This thriving cultural follows important sites of pared according to the high- hub also boasts two universi- faith and spirituality, and est standards of quality and ties and is constantly host to focuses on the lives of the re- safety. Let’s not forget the various international events, gion’s most famous children, local cheeses, among which, making Perugia a cosmopol- Saint Francis of Assisi, Saint it is worth mentioning the itan city that is also a perfect Clare, and Saint Benedict of aged and the var-

86 Foligno (PG), participant at the Giostra della Quintana (ENIT Photo Library)

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ious fresh or aged goat’s gin). As far as the dessert is that Perugia has been ruled cheeses. As a main platter or concerned, you will not be by various different cultures a side dish, the lentils from left wanting: the and people, starting with Castelluccio di Norcia are a (spicy cake) from Terni, the its founders, the Etruscans, delicious ingredient used in Torcolo di San Costanzo (a who most likely settled here soups and broths, and which kind of ring-shaped pound around the sixth century have obtained the European cake) from Perugia and the B.C.. There are a number of PGI (protected geographical Rocciata (a kind of strudel) marvellous monuments from indication). The broad range from Foligno are just a few this great civilization: the of platters is paralleled by of the many traditional del- Etruscan Archway and Well, the wide assortment of lo- icacies still prepared by hand just to name a couple. The cal products from the land, by local bakers, and which latter Roman influences can the most famous of which are sure to please even the be seen all over the city. Pe- is most certainly the truffle. most demanding sweet tooth rugia stands on a hill approx- The black truffle is the most out there. Finally, Umbria’s imately 500 metres above popular, and is an exquisite territory and climate are par- sea level and its historic city condiment for and ticularly good for vineyards, centre is built all around it, game especially in the area which is why a variety of surrounded by Etruscan and around Norcia and Spole- DOC and DOCG wines are mediaeval walls. Perugia is to, but the delicious white made here, including the fa- surrounded by two defensive truffle can also be found in mous Grechetto, walls: the external one, erect- Valle Tiberina, Orvieto and di Montefalco and the Tor- ed during the middle ages, Gubbio. Every platter is en- giano red. still stands several kilometres hanced by the rich fruity in length, with numerous flavour of the golden local Perugia gateways throughout, like oil, of such high quality as the Cassero di Porta Sant’An- to earn itself a PDO (Pro- The many archaeological gelo. The inner wall was built tected designation of ori- sites are witness to the fact by the Etruscans, and its 88 Castelluccio di Norcia, Sibillini Mountains (ENIT Photo Library) large stones can still be seen next to it, is one of Italy’s cal hinterlands. These lands today. But the most marvel- most important plazas: pi- of unparalleled beauty are lous monuments and archi- azza IV Novembre, the city’s always highlighted by the tecture in the old city centre monument-filled social hub, splendour of their spiritual are most definitely from the with at its centre the Fontana heritage. Those who visit the middle ages. One of Italy’s Maggiore fountain, with its Perugia area will have plenty best preserved old mediaeval elegant lines and shapes, a of opportunities to follow in towns, to stroll through the true masterpiece of sculp- the footsteps of Saint Fran- city centre is like stepping ture by Giovanni and Nico- cis and Saint Clare, visiting back in time. Coming in la Pisano. Facing the plaza various sanctuaries and con- from Porta San Pietro you is Palazzo dei Priori, which vents. The religious destina- can immediately visit the San was erected between the tion “par excellence” is most Domenico Basilica, to view thirteenth and fourteenth definitely Assisi, for centuries exquisitely crafted statues century, symbol of the civil now a destination for tour- and works of art from local authorities and host to Um- ists and pilgrims. Assisi is a artists. The nearby convent bria’s National Gallery, the terraced city on the slopes of and cloisters serve as home most important collection of Mount Subasio, with steep for Umbria’s National Ar- Umbrian paintings, includ- roads that open onto broad chaeological Museum, where ing several by Pietro Perugi- squares like Piazza San Ru- artefacts from the Neolithic no. Finally, there is the San fino, with the Romanesque and Bronze Ages uncovered Lorenzo Cathedral, which cathedral by the same name, at local dig sites are hosted. faces Piazza Danti but also and Piazza Santa Chiara as Another beauty is Piazza Piazza IV Novembre, where well as Piazza del . Matteotti, formerly Sopra- Saint Bernardino’s pulpit is The city has numerous muro, with its sixteenth cen- located, and from which the monuments and churches tury Palazzo of the old uni- Saint used to preach. But let’s worth visiting, including versity and the Palazzo del leave Perugia city behind as Saint Clare’s Basilica, with Capitano del Popolo. Right we dive into its paradisia- its unique pink and white

89 marvellous vistas of the sur- rounding valley. A must visit is Saint Francis’ Church and Convent, which was erected in the fourteenth century, and which hosts numerous frescoes, including “the life and times of Saint Francis”, by Benozzo Bozzoli, the most famous series of frescoes after the one in Assisi, current- ly the Municipal Museum of Saint Francis, with many works of art on exhibit. On the main road, the Church of Saint Augustine hosts many beautiful Umbrian frescoes from the fourteenth and fif- teenth centuries. Then there is Bevagna, “città delle Gaite”: a true mediaeval splendour, with a magnificent central plaza that is rightfully consid- ered one of the most beauti- ful in the whole of Italy. Fur- ther South we have the city of Spoleto, another tourist attraction. Its beauty is un- paralleled not only because of its monuments, but also be- cause of this town’s close ties to nature, as it was erected on the sides of a hill dominated by the Rocca Albornoziana, the city’s most distinguish- ing feature and currently a national museum. A long Spoleto, Duomo (PG) (ENIT Photo Library) scenic hike from the Rocca leads to the Ponte delle Torri coloured stripes along its fa- the first century B.C.: the bridge: an audacious feat of cade, and which hosts the façade and its six columns are engineering with ten arches crucifix that spoke to Saint remarkably well preserved. and a height of approximate- Francis; then there is Saint Near Assisi is the town of ly 90 metres, which leads to Francis’ Upper Basilica, with Spello, the ancient Roman Colle Sant’Elia and Mon- its frescoes by Cimabue and Ispellum, considered one of teluco. The city’s alleyways Giotto, and which connects Umbria’s real gems: a city full are almost lined with monu- internally via a staircase to of history, monuments and ments and churches, and are the Lower Basilica. Mean- works of art, like the master- filled with beautiful gems like while, the Basilica di Santa pieces by Pinturicchio. The the Druso Archway, which Maria degli Angeli hosts the town of Montefalco, near was erected in 23 A.D., and Porziuncola, an ancient chap- Foligno, is known as Um- which serves as entryway to el where the Saint sought ref- bria’s balcony, because from the ancient Roman Forum, uge. Minerva’s temple, on the its hilltop perch, regardless the Cathedral and its spectac- other hand, is a marvellous of which direction you look ular Romanesque façade that example of architecture from out onto, you can enjoy includes a wonderful mosaic 90 from the thirteenth centu- ry, and which hosts master- pieces by Pinturicchio and Filippo Lippi, among others. Right on the border with the Marches, still in the Prov- ince of Perugia, is the town of Norcia, home of Saint Benedict, the founder of mo- nasticism and patron saint of Europe, to whom a Basilica bearing his name is dedicat- ed. The structure was built in the thirteenth century and restored several times there- after. The town’s main piazza has the Cathedral of Santa Maria Argentea, erected over an ancient parish church, and the Municipal Palace, with its façade adorned by four large windows with decorative columns, and its nearby bell-tower. Then we come to Todi, in the Tiber river’s Midvale: fantastic vis- tas from this hilltop town, as far as the eye can see. The city is built on a steep slope and its districts form a trian- gular shape. Another one of Italy’s most beautiful squares is found here: Piazza del Po- polo, surrounded by Palazzo del Capitano and Palazzo del Popolo, which hosts the Orvieto, Cathedral (TR) (ENIT Photo Library) Municipal Art Gallery and the Roman-Etruscan Muse- um, and by the Cathedral, only for its monuments, like rently hosts the Art Muse- which dates back to the elev- Palazzo Della Corgna, but um and the Archaeological enth century and is devoted also for its beaches, swim- Museum. Finally, right op- to Santa Maria Annunziata. ming pools, tennis courts, posite the Cathedral is an Just outside the city walls and myriad surfing, sailing exquisite structure from the (which were built during and water-skiing opportuni- Renaissance: Palazzo Du- the thirteenth century) is ties. Another marvellous an- cale, ordered by Federico da another marvel of sixteenth cient town rich in history is Montefeltro and erected on century architecture: the Gubbio, with its Roman top of a pre-existing Roman- Temple of Santa Maria del- Theatre, which dates back to esque church between the la Consolazione, a beautiful the first century A.D., and thirteenth and fourteenth masterpiece by Bramante. which is located just outside century. Castiglione del Lago, one of the city’s walls. The town’s For more information visit the first mediaeval towns to symbol is Palazzo dei Con- the following website: be called “one of Italy’s fin- soli, an imposing structure www.regioneumbria.eu est”. Right on Lake Trasime- erected in the fourteenth no, this town is famous not century, and which cur- 91 92 THE MARCHES

Unusual and marvellously var- When you think of the March- ied, every aspect of this region in es you immediately think of the Central Italy, with its harmonious countryside and of stretches of and graceful shapes, is delight- cultivated hills dotted with towns ful: cliffs and caves overlooking and villages: the Marches has unique beaches, hills steeped in many historic towns, even on history, tradition and art, and the coast but particularly in the mountains with ski facilities. hinterland, in fact it has 19 Or- The area is mostly hilly and moun- ange Flags for the most beautiful tainous and includes the Adriat- villages in Italy, aimed at making ic side of the Umbria-Marches the most of these great features of Apennine range. the area. The region has 180 kilometres Nature in the Marches is a pro- of coastline, 26 resorts on the tected value, with its national Adriatic Sea, and 18 Blue Flags and regional parks and WWF oa- for the quality of the waters and ses waiting to be discovered; the the coast, the services and envi- Monti Sibillini and Monti della ronmental education, making the Laga parks are a unique scene Marches one of the leading re- for trekking enthusiasts. Not to gions in the country for the most be missed are the Grotte di Fra- beautiful and cleanest sea. sassi caves, to which people travel And we cannot overlook the long from all over Europe and which stretch of fine, golden sand sur- are of great speleological interest rounded by clear water, in Seni- because of the karstic phenome- gallia, with plenty of bathing es- non that caused wonderful caves, tablishments and a nice place to some of which inhabited since walk by the seaside, especially at prehistoric times. sunset. Orchards and vineyards as far Then there are also Gabicce as the eye can see, on the Picen- Mare, Pesaro, Fano, Civitano- tine hills and in the Esino Valley, va and San Benedetto surround old farmhouses where del Tronto, ideal for people that you can find the simple taste of want to relax and rest at one of wholesome things. the many bathing establishments, Stately homes or old sharecrop- which were fashionable with the pers’ houses have been converted upper classes way back in the into farmhouse accommodation nineteenth century, while for lov- and they tell the story of life in ers of extreme nature the Conero bygone days. Riviera has charming scenery and The provinces are: Ancona (ad- tips of land that are still wild and ministrative centre), Ascoli Pice- can sometimes only be reached by no, Fermo, Macerata, Pesaro and sea or along paths cut through the Urbino. greenery of the Mediterranean The region calls to mind its great maquis. past, in its art cities with squares

93 that are like salons, and in its mediaeval villages where time seems to have stood still, among the streets and the no- ble palaces. Ascoli Piceno is one of Italy’s monumental cities, with its mediaeval town centre and the Piazza del Popolo with its arcaded loggia and the mas- sive structure of the palace of the Capitani del Popolo with its crenelated tower. In the town you can visit craft workshops where you can appreciate the creativ- ity and skill of the Ascoli people, like the lute makers. We should not overlook the historic “Quintana” (end July – first week in August) festival where able horsemen compete in the joust of the Saracen. Ancona is an ancient port, known as the “port of Numana, Conero (Ancona) (ENIT Photo Library) the East” and has excellent monuments and a charming beach. The Cathedral of San Ciriaco is built over an ancient Greek acropolis and is regarded as one of the most interesting mediaeval churches in the Marches. In the Marches region the old town centre of Urbino and the Duke’s Palace, an interesting architectural and artistic example of the Italian Renaissance, are a UNESCO Heritage Site. Gradara is also worth a visit, with its fortress, a magnifi- cent example of mediaeval military architecture; it is the place where tradition has it that Paolo and Francesca kissed, as Dante tells in the fifth Canto of the Inferno. The Marian sanctuary of Lo- reto is an important place of pilgrimage, considered one of the most important in the Urbino, Duke’s Palace and Cathedral (ENIT Photo Library) Catholic world. For lovers of classical music, in Pesaro, in August there are 94 two weeks of full immersion in the notes of the Pesaro citizen, Gioacchino Rossini: the Rossini Opera Festival has become a must for opera lovers all over the world, in the charming setting of the city which has many other attractions. If you want to be submerged in sweets and chocolates you ought to go to Fano during the Carnival. The Fano car- nival is of ancient origin and has at least 3 original fea- tures: sweets are thrown onto the crowd from the floats, the typical “vulon” masked character parodies the city’s most prominent personages, and the “ band”, plays using tin cans, coffee pots and jugs as instruments. The sea and mountains of this region are just right for people that like to roam and to immerse themselves in the clear water of the surround- ing sea and the vegetation of the parks. It is precisely the parks that occupy a large percentage of the surfaces regarded as pro- tected areas. The Marches, with the National Park of the Monti Sibillini and the Gran Sasso and Monti del- la Laga Park, as well as the Grotte di Frasassi, Genga (AN) regional parks certified by the European Charter for Sustainable Tourism, and routes and see natural, his- skaters. the nature reserves are very toric and artistic beauty spots You should not miss a trip charming scenes with very and, why not, get to know to the Conero, the lovely interesting flora and fauna. the region’s typical food and protected promontory in the This is a great place for bird wine specialties. For Alpine regional park of the same watching, with sightings of skiers, snowboarders and name, which stretches south the golden eagle, pilgrim cross-country skiers, the of the city. The Conero, with hawk and eagle owl; for trek- have Portonovo, Sirolo and Nu- king enthusiasts there are more than nine ski resorts, mana, is the Ancona peoples’ long walks through woods snow parks and cross-coun- Riviera, and its high, jag- and forests but there are also try tracks of various lengths ged coastline and the lovely horseback rides, excursions and difficulty, whereas the sea make it one of the most by canoe and mountain bike ice palace in Ussita offers a charming holiday resorts on trips. The bicycle makes it pleasant experience to ice the coasts of Italy. The seabed possible to travel on pleasant

95 Monti Landscape opposite the Cornero, also , strozzapre- Ancona rocky with some sandy areas, ti (priest chokers) macaroni, rich in animal and vegetable and the traditional “vincis- The history of Ancona and species, is a very attractive grassi”, the forerunner of all its province is linked to the destination for divers. the baked in Italy. sea. Apparently the city was Also in Ancona, at the be- The fresh sweet flavour of founded by Greeks from Syr- ginning of May the city cel- the sea can be tasted in the acuse in the fourth century ebrates the Fair of San Ciria- fish dishes; the undisputed before Christ, considering co, its patron saint. champion of coastal food is the “elbow” shape that suit- For four days it is gaily in- “brodetto”, made with more ed the building of the port. vaded by hundreds of stalls, than 14 types of fish; tomato It is no coincidence that the market fairs, with typical fla- is added to it in Ancona and name Ancona comes from vours, street artists and the Pescara and saffron in Ascoli. the word “ankon”, meaning open-air paint-off. For music The iconic dish of the city of elbow in Greek. The port lovers, AnconaJazz brings in Ascoli is fritto misto all’ítal- area immediately became a international stars and this is iana (Italian style mixed strategic point for trade with the main event in the March- fry): this dish, which attracts the East. The city is made up es dedicated to this very pop- epicures, deserves a spe- of two parts: an old centre set ular genre. cial mention: stuffed olives, against the Guasco hill, and We cannot speak of a sin- cream, eggplant, artichokes a modern part. The itinerary gle type of cuisine but of a and lamb cutlets. can start from the top where combination of flavours and Desserts include the ciambel- the cathedral of San Ciriaco tastes from the whole area lotto con i funghetti all’anice stands. As you go down to- with their specific character- (aniseed-flavoured ring- wards the port you come to istics. shaped cake), the cicerchiata Trajan’s and The typical roughness of the (little balls of dough deep- then the ruins of the Roman hinterland can be tasted in fried and served with honey), Amphitheatre. Must-sees are meat dishes, like maiale in ravioli filled with chestnut, the Mole Valtelliana lazaretto (pork loin roast) cream and cheese and and, close by, the Church of and marinated lamb; there fried. St. Augustine. are dishes flavoured with All washed down with Picene For art lovers, the Church truffles, the best known ones wines: white Faleria from the of St. Dominic in piazza del are from Acqualagna and Colli Ascolani, Rosso Piceno Plebiscito has the Crucifixion Sant’Angelo in Vado, as can and Rosso Piceno Superiore by Titian and the Annuncia- be seen from the famous and, lastly, vino cotto, a sweet tion by Guercino; also worth fairs dedicated to this typi- wine matured in casks, with seeing are the Palazzo degli cal product, as well as with a Mediterranean hint of anis- Anziani, with its baroque mushrooms; first courses are ette and mistral liqueur. façade, now seat of the Uni-

96 Pesaro, fountain (ENIT Photo Library) versity, the sixteenth century Moving north, a must-see is Osimo, where there are many Palazzo Ferretti, now seat of the Rocca Roveresca castle in traces of the classical peri- the Archaeological Museum Senigallia, symbol of the city, od. Lastly, passing through of the Marches. built on Roman foundations. Castelfidardo, we must visit The “Francesco Podesti” mu- Corinaldo, the birthplace of Loreto, seat of Italy’s biggest nicipal art gallery and gallery Saint Maria Goretti and a Marian Sanctuary, a typi- of modern art has the Virgin place of pilgrimage, has a cal example of a town built with Child and Saints by Tit- panoramic location between around a sanctuary, with its ian, the Madonna with Child the valleys of the Cesano and Basilica and the Holy House; by Carlo Crivelli, and works Nevola rivers; nearby there there are extremely beautiful by Lorenzo Lotto, Sebastiano are two other lovely villages, works also in the Art Gallery del Piombo and Corrado Ca- Ostra and Ostra Vetere. Near located in the Palazzo Apos- gli. Travelling north we come the borders with Umbria, set tolico. to Chiaravalle, known for its into the mountains, we come famous Abbey located in the to Fabriano, famous for artis- For more information visit big square in the centre of the tic paper since the 13th cen- the following website: town. Further inland there is tury. www.turismo.marche.it Jesi, founded by the Umbri- If we go back towards the ans, of great historic interest coast, 18 kilometres south of because the Etruscans, the Ancona, on the hills among Senoni Gauls and the Ro- the valleys of the Aspio and mans have all been there. Musone rivers, we come to

97 98 LATIUM

Latium is an area worth getting to know, toric monuments, from the Terme dei Papi a land rich in blends of art, culture and in Viterbo to the Terme di Bonifacio in Fi- nature, the crossroads of Mediterranean uggi. Then there is the sea, the beaches, the civilization and of Etruscan, Sabine, Sam- lovely cliffs, all along the coastline, from nite, Campanian and Latin peoples. The beach to the white sand of Sa- region probably got its name from the baudia with its famous dunes, to the clear Latins, whose most recent history min- waters of San Felice al Circeo and Sperlon- gles with that of Rome and the Pontifical ga, an authentic Tyrrhenian fishing village, State, the Terra del Lavoro and the King- down to Gaeta, with its split mountain dom of the Two Sicilies. A compound overhanging the sea. There are very charm- memory that only a few dozen years ago ing underwater itineraries along the lovely recovered its role as a unique tourist at- seabeds of the , to underwa- traction, together with that of the capital ter caves, fields of posidonia, lobsters and city. Nowadays the region stands out with even submerged shipwrecks. The counter- its many charms, from spas to spectacular point to the sea is the beautiful mountains, lakes, from gentle hilly scenery to charm- rich in avifauna and biodiversity, which ing beaches, from archaeology and art to mark out the region’s ridge and follow its the great wealth of traditions. Latium is a outline from the borders of Tuscany to wonderland, the essence of natural beauty, Campania, from the Rieti salt road to the historic remains and a variety of food and Abruzzo National Park. Then there are the wine related to the soil and the simplicity Monti della Laga and della Duchessa, the and wholesomeness of the crops. There are magical Simbruini mountains, the heart of many archaeological sites all over the area, Latium, the Ausoni mountains and the Au- from the Etruscan remains in Tuscania and runci, which look down on the beauty of Tarquinia, to the necropolis in , the coast beneath and seem to accompany now UNESCO sites, as well as Hadrian’s the area towards the scents and landscapes Villa and the Villa d’Este in Tivoli. Oth- of the Mediterranean. In fact Latium is a er must-sees are the archaeological sites of great place for people that want to enjoy the Temple of Jupiter Amur in Terracina, nature routes among the many protected the Roman paved roads in Arpino, and the nature areas. There are lakes, countryside, Roman colony of old Minturno. Mediae- seas and mountains just outside Rome val villages and polygonal walls are another and near the countless mediaeval villages. feature of the area: to mention but a few, Hiking paths, waterways, woods and beech there is Viterbo with its pilgrims’ district groves are the scene of often pristine nat- and the Palace of the Popes, Anagni with ural environments. The Regional Natural the Palace of Boniface VII and the crypt of Parks and Protected Oases offer visitors a the Cathedral with its fine frescoes, Fumo- wide range of itineraries and the Roads of ne with its mediaeval village, Civita di Bag- the Parks allow you to immerse yourself in noregio, the wonderful “dying city”, Calca- the nature of Etruscan Latium or to reach ta and Nifa, true icons of beauty, and oases Umbria along Roman roads, passing ne- of ruins and romantic parks that enchant cropolises, waterfalls and caves. Or you can the visitor and leave indelible memories. reach the Latium side of the Abruzzo-Mon- Culture and wellness and spas are another ti della Laga Natural park with its hundreds of Latium’s strongpoints: thermal waters of equipped trails, practicable even when flow through natural landscapes and his- there is snow, where there is still a chance

99 Hadrian’s Villa (Latium Region’s Photo Library) of seeing bears, wolves, cham- the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusa- nestling in the greenery of ois and even golden eagles. In lem, through Bolsena, famous woods and beech groves. All southern Latium, lovers of for the miracle of Saint Rose, these routes lead through the the mountains and the sea and Capranica, Sutri, Cam- Latium area, a real red thread can travel through the Par- pagnano and Formello, and which the traveller can follow co del Circeo along ancient reaches Rome from Monte to discover wonderful scen- Roman routes, like the Via Mario, formerly known as ery, lovely little villages and Flacca. In this area you can Mons Gaudii (the mountain traditional flavours. do free climbing, on prepared of joy) because of the joy This kaleidoscopic area, with faces, in Sperlonga, Itri and felt by travellers when they its thousands of years of tra- Gaeta. An excellent way of saw the Eternal City. This is dition, has created countless getting to know the Latium the same route that Sigerico, folk traditions, historical area is to hike along the an- Archbishop of Canterbury, re-enactments and folk fes- cient pilgrimage routes that travelled on at the end of the tivals, which have spread all have been used for getting to 10th century, keeping a diary over the various provinces. Rome since the Middle Ages, listing nine stages in our re- We mention some of the most where pilgrims could venerate gion, starting from the border charming. In Greccio, in the the tombs of Saints Peter and with Tuscany. In southern Rieti province, birthplace of Paul and get a plenary indul- Latium you can travel along the first Christmas Crib in gence. The most important is the Via Francigena del Sud, the world, at Christmas time the Via Francigena, the road which leads from Rome to the Nativity is commemorat- used by merchants and trav- the Adriatic coast, from where ed with elegant scenes; there ellers, carrying ideas, art, leg- pilgrims set sail for Jerusalem. is a Carnival in Ronciglione, ends, languages and customs. In the Rieti area we find the near Viterbo, with horse rac- The oadr runs down from Cammino di Francesco, a ring es, decorated decorated floats, the Alps to northern Latium, linking the Franciscan sanc- and confraternity members passing through Acquapen- tuaries of the Valle Santa, wearing traditional costumes. dente, where there is a sacel- , La Foresta, Poggio In Priverno, in the Latina lum with a reproduction of Busone and Fontecolombo, province, there is a Passion

100 Lake of Albano (Latium Region Photo Library) of Christ procession through 16th century victory of Lepan- of long ago. Latium wine the old town, with very im- to by Marcantonio Colonna; production has very ancient pressive shoulder-borne as the song says, the histor- origins: the ancient Falerno, structures. In Acquapenden- ic fountain in Marino still praised by Columella, Pliny te, in the Viterbo area, on the spills out wine on the the elder and Horace, now second Sunday in May the occasion of the festival. The has famous descendants: various districts compete in food and wine tradition in from di Gradoli to making the marvellous Pug- Latium has always stayed true Cesanese del Piglio, Est Est naloni, huge panels with love- to its typical features: strong Est di Montefiascone, and ly mosaics made by assem- flavours linked with farming Moscato di Terracina, which bling flower petals and leaves. and shepherding. The meats tradition says was used by In June, for the feast of Cor- are delicious, for instance the the witch Circe to bewitch pus Christi, there are many PDO sausage of Monte San Ulysses. Latium has excellent infiorate (flower festivals) at Biagio, made by hand and varieties of extra-virgin olive which the streets are “car- flavoured with red pepper, or oil, like Canino and Sabino, peted” with coloured flower the classic “coppiette” made of with the PDO label. You can petals. The outstanding one spiced and dried horsemeat. also travel along a Wine, Oil is the centuries-old Infiorata The porchetta (roast suck- and Typical Products route, in Genzano, which has been ling pig) of Ariccia and the visiting the countryside of the symbol of the town since whole Castelli Romani area the Rieti area, with places 1773. Then there are palii, is famous; you can even eat it dedicated to Saint Benedict. folkloric horse races in which in one of the many outdoor Latium has plenty of farm- different districts compete; “fraschette” taverns, which house accommodation, from famous in Latium is the Palio used to be venues for out- to Sabina, from Cio- dei Rioni di Morlupo, in the of-town excursions. There ciaria to the Riviera di Ulisse, province of Rome, a spectac- are many traditional first which offers stays in estoredr ular contest between teams. courses, like all’Am- farmhouses, mills and typical Many fairs and festivals are atriciana, pasta made with dwellings, with food coming linked with local agricultural local fat bacon and pecorino directly from local farms, in products. There is the Chest- cheese from Amatrice, with environments where tradi- nut Festival in Soriano nel its unique flavour, or tional hospitality lives on. Cimino in October, during con la pajata, pasta dressed Lovers of antique fairs and which there is a costume joust with the intestines of a milk- markets and artistic crafts will between the districts. The fed calf. Carciofi romaneschi, find many shopping opportu- Grape Festival in Marino, is Roman artichokes, have their nities, in old villages and art also very famous and is men- fairs and festivals in the area, cities: to mention but a few, tioned in the song “Nannì”, while the strawberries of in the Castelli Romani (Ro- made famous by Petrolini; Nemi and Terracina still have man hills) there is the Mer- the festival dates back to the the sweet flavour of the fruit cato dell’Antiquariato e Arti- 101 Rome, paving of the Via Appia (Latium Region Photo Library) gianato, Civitavecchia holds eli, from where a staircase an Antique Fair very popular Eternal City, caput mundi, leads up to the church of San- with collectors also; there is a navel of the world, Great ta Maria in Aracoeli, where furnishing market in Viterbo, Destination… this wonderful important artists, including with restored and fur- city has had many different Pinturicchio and Donatello, niture; in Latina you can visit names in the past. But if you worked. the Mercatino della Memoria, want to get to know it you Important streets, the names linked to the tradition of the have to walk along its streets of which are linked with the Città di Fondazione (cities and enjoy the sensations as city’s history, stretch out from founded during Fascism), picturesque scenes appear in Piazza Venezia. One of these while the main historic villag- its alleys. We suggest you start is Via dei Fori Imperiali. If es in Ciociaria, Anagni, Fer- from Piazza Venezia, which we walk along the ancient Via entino, Sora and Veroli have can be considered the heart dell’Imperio, as it was origi- charming Sunday markets. of Rome, with the majestic nally called, on our right we There are many musical fes- monument dedicated to Vic- overlook the Roman Forum, tivals and opera and concert tor Emanuel II and the Altar the civic and economic hub seasons in Latium. Tuscia in of the Fatherland on its steps of the old Roman city, with Jazz Spring, in Viterbo, is an in memory of the unknown the Trajan Markets on the important one but so is the soldiers that have no . opposite side of the street. In Festival Lirico in Casamari in Behind it is Piazza del Cam- the background, as we move Ciociaria or the Reate Festival pidoglio, the square designed along the Via, the outline of in the Flavio Theatre in Rieti, by Michelangelo Buonarro- one of the most famous mon- which promotes Italian oper- ti, with three Palazzi around uments in the world comes atic tradition. We must not it and the statue of Marcus into sight: the Coliseum, the forget the Festival Pontino in Aurelius in the middle. Here symbol of Rome. Beside it the Latina province, which you can visit the Capitol Mu- stands the Arch of Constan- supports young up-and-com- seums, where works reflecting tine, perhaps the biggest and ing artists. These are just a the city’s artistic and cultural best preserved in Rome, a real few suggestions for itineraries evolution are on display. museum of Roman sculpture. of discovery and pleasure in a The ramp, with its big stone Nearby is the Palatine, one of fabulous area. steps, links the Campidoglio the seven hills of Rome, the Rome (Capitol) to Piazza dell’Araco- hub of the ancient city, with

102 the Quirinal hill, site of a pal- ace of the same name where the President of the Republic lives. Along Via del Corso, set among the little streets at the side, we find the Trevi Foountain and also Piazza di Spagna from where the 135 Trinita dei Monti steps (also known as the Spanish Steps) lead up to the Pincio hill, with Villa Medici, now the site of the French Academy in Rome, and Villa Borghese, the third biggest park in the city, where there are the Tem- pio di Esculapio, Piazza di Si- ena and the Borghese Gallery, with its wonderful collection which adds to the charm of the place. From the viewpoint on the Pincio you can look down on Piazza del Popolo, on the right side of which stands the basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo, with works by Caravaggio, Pinturicchio, Sansovino, Bramante, Raffa- ello and Bernini. If we leave Piazza del Popolo and go into the adjacent streets, near the Lungotevere we see the Ara EUR Rome, Palazzo della Civiltà del Lavoro (Latium Region Photo Library) Pacis, one of the most im- portant remains of the time of Augustus, symbolizing the the traces of its foundation by Nearby you can visit the peace and prosperity achieved Romulus and ancient imperi- church of Santa Maria in Cos- by the emperor. We pass by al dwellings; from one side it medin, a masterpiece of Ro- Piazza Montecitorio, where overlooks the Roman Forum manesque art, distinguished parliament sits in the palace and from the other the Cir- by its beautiful campanile, of the same name, and near- co Massimo. From here, you which has the famous carved by Piazza Colonna, called continue along Viale Aven- image known as the Bocca after the column celebrating tino to the Piramide di Caio della Verità (mouth of truth) the victories of Marcus Au- Cestio, a funeral monument from which the square gets relius, and we come to the in Egyptian style, and turning its name and of which the Pantheon, an ancient temple right towards the Lungote- story goes that it can bite the dedicated to all the gods, now vere (Tiberside) you come to hand of a person telling a lie! the tomb of two kings of It- the temples of Foro Boario: Branching out from Piazza aly and of Raffaello Sanzio. the Tempio di Portuno and Venezia is Via del Corso, a Nearby is the spectacular Pi- the Tempio di Ercole Vinci- central street leading to Pi- azza Navona, with Bernini’s tore, two of the best preserved azza del Popolo. Immediately famous Fontana dei Fiumi in buildings of ancient Rome, to the left of Piazza Venezia is its centre. All around this area which stand in Piazza della Pamphili, while there are important church- Bocca della Verità. on the right it stretches up to es and monuments, like the church of Sant’Ivo alla Sapi-

103 his pupils. Behind the Villa is Palazzo Corsini: with the bo- tanic gardens and the seat of the National Gallery of An- cient Art containing, among others, works by Beato An- gelico, Rubens, Murillo and Luca Giordano. Continuing towards Borgo Santo Spirito we come to the Vatican City, the smallest state in the world, in the heart of the capital city, with its splendid Saint Pe- ter’s basilica. Inside the walls are the Vatican Museums, a wonderful melting pot of the Greccio (Rieti) (Latium Region Photo Library) art and history of all ages and all places, with works of im- mense historical and artistic enza, a baroque masterpiece cesco Borromini, famous for value: must-sees are the Raf- and mature work by Frances- its optical illusions, one of faello Rooms, the maps in the co Borromini, the church of the must-see curiosities of Galleria delle Carte Geogra- San Luigi dei Francesi, with 17th century Rome. Crossing fiche and the famous Sistine masterpieces by Caravaggio, via Giulia, a memorable street Chapel, frescoed by Mi- Palazzo Altemps, seat of the that leads the visitor through chelangelo. Travelling along National Roman Museum, a 16th century urban land- the Via della Conciliazione which has excellent collec- scape, we come to the Lun- toward the Lungotevere we tions of ancient sculptures, gotevere (Tiberside) and can come to Castel Sant’Angelo, the church of Santa Maria cross the river over the his- an ancient fortress, altered della Pace, with frescoes by toric Ponte Sisto. Walking to several times during the Mid- Raffaello, and the elegant the left along Via della Lun- dle Ages and the Renaissance, Bramante Cloister. From Pi- gara we approach the basilica from where there is a lovely azza Navona we come to Cor- of Santa Maria in Trastevere, view all around. The other so Vittorio Emanuele II, close with the distinctive mosaics three patriarchal basilicas, to which are the Palazzo della on its façade, which overlooks Saint John Lateran, Saint Cancelleria and the church one of the loveliest squares in Mary Major and Saint Paul of Santa Maria in Vallicella, the city. Continuing towards Outside the Walls, are also known as Chiesa Nuova, strik- the Janiculum hill we come part of the Vatican State. You ing for its magnificence and to the church of San Pietro should see the Scala Santa its splendid interior. From in Montorio, located on one (holy stairs) and maybe even here, across the Corso, we of Rome’s most panoram- go up them on your knees in come to Camp de’ , site ic points, with Bramante’s devotion; according to Chris- of Roman nightlife, with the Tempietto, which is its main tian tradition Jesus went up statue of Giordano Bruno, attraction. Starting out again them to the place where he who was burned at the stake from the Lungara, but head- was interrogated by Pontius here, in the centre; a must-see ing right this time, we come Pilate, before being crucified; is the nearby Piazza Farnese, to the 16th century Villa Far- they were moved to Rome by with the Palazzo of the same nesina, one of the most state- Saint Helen, the mother of name, a splendid Renaissance ly and harmonious buildings Constantine. Nearby, on the building, seat of the French of the Renaissance, inside road between the Coliseum Embassy, with the famous which, among other things, and the Lateran, is the lovely Gallery frescoed by Annibale we can see the “Triumph of basilica of San Clemente, with Carracci, and, a little further Galatea”, the famous fresco mosaics inside the lower basil- on, Palazzo Spada with the by Raffaello, and the Loggia ica also. The basilica of Santa perspective gallery by Fran- di Amore and Psiche by one of Maria Maggiore, situated on

104 the Esquiline hill, is the only one that has kept its original paleochristian structure, even though it was improved lat- er. Nearby you can visit the church of San Pietro in Vin- coli, where the chains of Saint Peter and one of Michelange- lo’s most famous statues, Mo- ses, are kept. Lastly, to visit the basilica of San Paolo Fuori Mura, the second biggest af- ter Saint Peter’s, we go out- side the old town centre and almost reach a newer district than the Rome we have seen so far, the EUR, designed during the nineteen thirties. Among the various alterna- tive routes are the charming itinerary of the Christian Catacombs, originally buri- al places and then places of refuge where Mass was cele- brated when Christians were being persecuted. There are more than sixty catacombs in Rome, the principal ones be- ing the Catacombs of Saints Agnes, Priscilla, Sebastian Monumental fountain in Piazza di Spagna, in the heart of Rome, at and Callistus. Last but not the foot of the steps. least is a visit to Ostia Antica, the best example of a Roman city in existence today; in the summer its Roman Theatre stages a great series of events and shows in the lovely set- ting of the archaeological site with its magical atmosphere. Naturally it is impossible to describe every corner and every wonder of the capital city: we just want to make a few suggestions on the basis of which everyone can select his or her personal encoun- ter with a city that holds en- chanting sights and infinite wonders for everybody. For more information visit the following website: www.visitlazio.com Giardino di Ninfa, a natural monument – Cisterna di Latina (Latium Region Photo Library)

105 106 ABRUZZO

Abruzzo lies between the highest Flag, symbolising and certifying peaks of the Apennines and the clean waters and a well protected waters of the Adriatic Sea. It is environment. The Abruzzi coast, a land waiting to be discovered, divided among the three provinc- with many treasures and magical es of Teramo, Pescara and Chieti, breath-taking scenery. has been a popular seaside tour- The natural panorama of the high ism destination since the late 19th impervious peaks of the Gran century. Sasso, the Monti della Laga and The northern part of the Abruz- the Majella slope down to a har- zo coast has long, sandy beaches monious range of hills and then while there are quieter pebbled reaches the Adriatic coast. If you coves in the south. Typical of the like, on the same day you can hike southern coast, before the big in the mountains in the morning, gulf of Vasto interrupts the jagged swim in the sea in the afternoon series of little creeks, we can see and dine under the stars in the the famous “trabocchi”. country that night. They are completely made of High in the mountains, amid wood and consist of a platform pristine peaks and rock faces, supported by long posts. from there are delightful tourist resorts which the fisherman casts his and areas equipped both for win- net into the sea, and a long, dar- ter sports and summer excursions. ing walkway, also supported by Amid the mountains and hills posts, connecting the platform to there are narrow valleys, historic dry land, often dozens of metres natural routes dotted with an- away. cient villages. A cycling track of about 130 kilo- There are three national parks: metres, running along the entire the Abruzzo e Molise, the Abruzzo Riviera is under com- Gran Sasso-Monti della Laga pletion and is going to form an and the Majella, as well as the Si- unbroken link between all the rente Velino regional park, which seaside resorts and their best at- ensure protection for vegetable tractions. species and the area’s typical ani- The track runs along the Riviera mals, like the chamois, the golden of each municipality and crosses eagle, the wolf and the marsican rivers over pretty wooden bridges. brown bear. This means that in summer you Compared to the area’s relative- can enjoy, without interruption, ly small area, the Abruzzi coast the whole length of the coast, seems to be really infinite: as many safely and tranquilly, either by as one hundred and thirty-three day or by night: in fact, life in the kilometres of beach washed by a seaside resorts never stops in sum- clean sea and kissed by the sun for mer, with a wide choice of clubs whole months, with resorts that and places that become pubs and have earned the prestigious Blue disco-bars in the evening.

107 Abruzzo, Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo: a beech grove in Camosciara, a wild place with many caves, streams, rivers and waterfalls (De Agostini Picture Library)

The little villages in the hin- Sasso, with an inestimable itineraries for history, art and terland, the monasteries and art heritage: from the mag- faith. Unfortunately the city the castles are all charming nificent basilica of San Ber- and the area around it were and offer many itineraries nardino to the 16th century severely hit by an earthquake for visiting the green region castle, to the basilica of Santa on 6 April 2009 and its pre- of Italy. Maria in Collemaggio to the cious art treasures were badly The provinces are: L’Aquila fountain with 999 spouts, damaged. (administrative centre), Pes- decorated with the same Pescara, overlooking long cara, Teramo, Chieti. number of stone masks. sandy beaches, is an import- The art city most typical of The city of the “perdonan- ant tourist resort with mem- the area is L’Aquila, located za celestiniana” (Celestine’s ories connected with the on the slopes of the Gran forgiveness) offers countless poet Gabriele D’Annunzio.

108108 Beach in the province of Teramo (TE) Abruzzo Region Photo Library

Chieti, located in the hills, lages, cared for by a peasant kinds of holiday, all thrilling has a wonderful 11th centu- civilisation which keeps up and full of surprises. The ry cathedral; as well as a spa its traditions through local snow-capped peaks of the and a Roman theatre and folklore and crafts. Abruzzo Apennines have amphitheatre there is also a The kaleidoscopic panora- the principal ski areas of the very interesting national Ar- ma of Abruzzo offers various Apennine range, which wel- chaeological Museum, with finds from the pre-Roman autochthonous people (Mar- rucini-Picenes-Peligni-Sam- nites etc.). Another important city is Teramo, with its majestic “Santa Maria Assunta” Ba- silica-Co-cathedral (13th century) and its impressive 55 metres tall campanile, the Roman amphitheatre and the Cathedral, a National Monument since 1899 and symbol of the ducal city, one of the few churches in the world to have a Holy Door. There are many ancient vil- Cesidio Silla - Scanno

109 come tourists with modern ski lifts and a vast system of tracks. For lovers of skiing, snow- boarding, snow rafting, Nor- dic skiing-ski touring and ski mountaineering: http:// www.abruzzoturismo.it/img/ depliant/it_en_Sciare.pdf. Even during the rest of the year Abruzzo has much to of- fer lovers of active and sports holidays: from trekking to mountain biking, from horseback riding (the Gran Sasso National Park has one San Vito Chietino Trabocco (Abruzzo Region Photo Archive) of Italy’s longest bridle paths, 330 km) to canoeing, from cycling holidays to downhill, from free climbing (Abruzzo has the second-biggest rock gym in Italy, in the Majel- la National Park) to bird watching. Along the coast there are plenty of opportu- nities for water sports: sailing canoeing, fishing and wind- surf, thanks to the equipped beaches and modern tour- ism. Cyclotourism is one of the best sports for discovering the myriad aspects of Abru- zzo, a unique combination of heterogeneous environments Gran Sasso National Park, Monti della Laga (ENIT Photo Library) and landscapes that thrill the visitor travelling through our Region. The itineraries, of various de- grees of difficulty, introduce the tourist to the variegated geomorphological and cul- tural panoramas of Abruzzo (Parks, protected areas, his- torical and archaeological sites) and they are suited for people that like pedalling across plains and over hills as well as for keen cyclists al- ways on the lookout for new challenges. There are many pilgrimage routes through pristine en- vironments, including the Eremo di San Onofrio (ENIT Photo Library) famous Celestine V Hermit- ages, set into the rocky slopes 110110 of the Majella and Morrone mountains, or the Roman- esque abbeys of Santa Maria di Propezzano, San Giovanni in Venere, San Liberatore a Majella, Santa Maria in Val- le Porclaneta, San Clemente a Casauria, and Santa Maria Assunta in Bominaco with the adjacent Oratory of San Pellegrino. Not to be missed are the folk- loric events, religious feasts and other events: from the famous Festa della Perdonan- za (Feast of the Forgiveness) in L’Aquila to the San Domeni- co festa dei Serpari (snake fes- tival) in Cocullo, the living Nativity Scene in Rivisondoli to the many fairs in the little villages. Abruzzo has an excellent culinary tradition and each province has its own special dishes. The star turn is maccheroni alla chitarra, home made pas- ta cut on a steel-wire frame; a typical Teramo dish is scrip- pelle, thin pieces of pasta cooked in broth; fish is the main food on the coast. Not to be missed is the typ- ical “brodetto”, a delicious speciality of Abruzzo’s fish- ing tradition, which con- tains shellfish and fresh fish. Menus based on lamb, kid, Campli (TE) Holy Stairs and mutton (the famous “” are a “must”) are popular every- where but so are lonza (cured fried and served with honey), pork loin) and ventricina (a bocconotti (pastry tarts) and kind of salami). mostaccioli ( biscuits). A typical Abruzzo meal is washed down by a selection For more information visit of the best regional wines: the following website: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, www.visitabruzzo.co.uk Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo and d’Abruzzo. Sweet- meats are often made with and typical ones are torrone, Sulmona confetti (sugared almonds), cicerchia- ta (little balls of dough deep- 111 112 MOLISE

Located in the centre-south of and Isernia. The journey to get to Italy, Molise stretches from the know Molise starts at Campobas- Apennine chain to the Adriatic so, a city rich in history and cul- Sea. ture, dominated by the Monforte Nature, history, art, ancient tra- castle, built around 1450 over the ditions and gastronomy are the ruins of a Norman building on treasures of this little-known a hill that dominates the whole land. city. The most important mon- In fact when you visit Molise you uments here are the Cathedral, feel you are making a “discov- built in 1504 and then rebuilt ery”, starting with its land, most- in neoclassical style in 1805 af- ly mountains and hills lined by ter an earthquake; the Roman- “tratturi”, the old transhumance esque church of San Bartolomeo; paths that join Abruzzi’s pastures the church of San Antonio Abate, with Apulia’s. built in 1572, with a late Renais- The Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, sance façade and a baroque in- Lazio e Molise, has surprisingly terior, decorated by 17th century beautiful landscapes, while there paintings and frescoes; the church are many nature reserves to pro- of San Leonardo, dating back to tect the typical flora and fauna of the 13th century, and the church the area. of San Giorgio, built in full Goth- Scenes of pristine nature sur- ic style during the 12th century. round the region’s two most im- The city has the Museo dei Mis- portant ski resorts, Campitello teri, which houses the majestic Matese and Capracotta. “ingegni” (contraptions) creat- Along the coast there are sandy ed by the Campobasso sculptor, beaches, bordered by Mediterra- Paolo Saveria di Zinno, in the nean vegetation and clear, clean 18th century; animated by figu- sea, which got the Blue Flag again rants they are paraded through this year. the streets at the Corpus Christi You can get to know the region’s procession. The Museo Provinciale thousands of years of history and Sannitico (Samnite museum) is its culture by visiting the archae- interesting: it displays remains of ological sites, abbeys and villages the civilisation that lived in the and the many castles scattered area from prehistoric times to the throughout the area. Samnite period. The survival of customs and tra- Worth seeing in Isernia is the ditions, of handicrafts and of an- old town centre, with many old cient trades that no longer exist buildings and charming squares. anywhere else is a unique feature There is also the important pre- that makes Molise “a little an- historic area, located just outside tique world”. the town, where you can visit La There are two provinces: Cam- Pineta, the national Palaeolithic pobasso (administrative centre) museum; the mediaeval “Fontana

113 Pietrabbondante. Santuario Italico archaeological complex (ENIT Photo Library)

Fraterna” fountain is partic- town of the zampogna (a tiful theatre, and Sepino, ularly beautiful. kind of bagpipe) which has a with the ruins of the ancient Well worth visiting are two museum devoted to this an- Roman city of Altilia, with small towns: Agnone, seat of cient musical instrument. its Forum, Basilica, Baths the ancient Marinelli Found- There are important archae- and Theatre. the Cardo and ry, which makes bells for the ological sites, including the Decumanus streets, the walls most important churches in Samnite sanctuary in Pi- and majestic gates. Larino, the world, and Scapoli, the etrabbondante with its beau- a charming town inhabited

114 since the 5th century B.C., has monuments from differ- ent periods, including the domus ellenistica, the Roman amphitheatre and the near- by baths, the 14th century Gothic cathedral with its bell tower, the Palazzo Comunale (town hall) and the church of San Francesco. The coastal town of Termoli, a popular seaside resort, has a charming old town centre with the majestic Castello Svevo and the Romanesque cathedral; in Venafro the Termoli, port, “trabocco” a typical fishermen’s structure (ENIT Photo Library) Pandone castle has a lovely series of Renaissance frescoes and archaeological remains from Roman and pre-Roman times. There are many castles in the area, including the pictur- esque ones in Pescolanciano and Cerro al Volturno; the abbeys and sanctuaries in- clude the Badia benedettina di San Vincenzo al Volturno, the Santuario dell’Addolorata in Castelpetroso and the San- tuario di Canneto in Roccavi- vara. There are also splendid ex- amples of Romanesque ar- chitecture: the church of San Scapoli, a craft workshop: zampogna maker (Isernia) – (ENIT Photo Giorgio in Petrella Tifernina Library)

115 Isernia, Fontana Fraterna, detail (Campobasso) (ENIT Photo Library) and the church of Santa Ma- ic cycling tracks along the ter sport amidst wide, san- ria della Strada in Matrice. coast. dy beaches, clear water and From the top of the Apen- Always surrounded by nature modern structures. nines down to the coast, you can enjoy a unique expe- Gourmets can take food- Molise’s pristine nature is rience travelling on horse- and-wine itineraries from the the ideal place for a holiday back along the “tratturi”, coast to high Molise, through with relaxation, sport and ex- the ancient transhumance a countryside covered with cursions to the region’s most paths typical of Molise. In vineyards and picturesque picturesque places. Pescolanciano and nearly ev- villages, with halts to taste Nature lovers can hike or erywhere else in the region the wines and typical prod- trek in the various protect- these historic paths are an ucts, even the famous white ed areas, through the typi- exceptional opportunity for truffle of San Pietro Avellana. cal Apennine scenery of the “living” history and the local Molise, the land of old tra- Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, culture. ditions, offers a number of Lazio e Molise, or in a varied The thrill of skiing at a high pilgrimage routes, passing environment like the WWF altitude is guaranteed by the through pristine environ- Oasis in Guardaregia-Cam- system of tracks in Campi- ments to the sanctuary of pochiari, among woods, tello Matese, Molise’s most Santa Maria del Canneto in streams, gorges and water- important ski resort, as well Roccavivara, the charming falls, and the MAB reserve in as Capracotta, famed for its sanctuary of the Addolorata Montedimezzo-Collemeluc- cross-country ski trails. amid the steep mountains cio. From Termoli to Campom- of Castelpetroso, and other Many parts of the hills are arino you can enjoy a quiet places of devotion. suited for mountain bikes, holiday on the coast and There are not-to-be-missed while there are panoram- practise every kind of wa- events and festivals that keep

116 Capracotta, Prato Gentile – Isernia local traditions alive: the In- fagioli” (pasta with beans) Pentro and Tintilia, made ternational Bagpipe Festival and roasted “torcinelli” made from a native vine. in Scapoli, the Fiera del tar- from lamb . Other ex- The star turns of typical tufo bianco (white truffle fair) cellent Molise products are sweetmeats are mostarda in San Pietro Avellana, “La extra-virgin olive oil, Isernia d’uva (a typical country jam), ‘Ndocciata”, a torchlight pro- truffles, and several types of “calzoni” (pastries filled with cession held in Agnone, the charcuterie, like liver sau- chickpea paste), ostie farciate Pezzata, a lamb fair in Capra- sage, “ventricina” salami, and (wafers filled with walnuts cotta, the Festa del Mare (sea “pampanella” spicy pork. and almonds), and “pec- festival) in Termoli, the Festa The milk products, especially cellate” (pastries filled with del Grano (wheat festival) in (stretched curd grape syrup or jam). Jelsi, and many more. cheese) and “stracciata” (fresh In this mainly agricultural re- cows’ milk cheese) from Ag- For more information visit the gion, the cuisine is based on none and Alto Molise, are following website: products of the soil and sheep top quality. Scamorza (spun www.moliseturismo.eu farming. cheese) and “burrini”, made The many typical dishes in- with caciocavallo on the out- clude maccheroni alla chitarra side and butter on the inside, (pasta cut on a wire frame), are produced everywhere. “pallotte cacio e uova” (cheese The local wines are also ex- and egg balls), “taccozze e cellent. They include Biferno,

117 118 CAMPANIA

This is one of the regions of Southern It- options but you simply must not miss the aly and it stretches along the coast of the six UNESCO Heritage Sites and the UN- Tyrrhenian Sea, from the mouth of the ESCO Protected site: Garigliano river to the Gulf of Policastro. • old town centre; Its mild climate, beautiful coasts, wealth of • The 19th century Palazzo Reale (royal art and history and love of cooking make palace) in Caserta, with the park of the Campania a really enjoyable place. Vanvitelli aqueduct and the The journey starts at the sea, wonderful complex; with its bright colours, its coastlines with • The archaeological areas of Pompeii, Her- many bays, inlets and cliffs, and the islands culaneum and ; of Capri and Ischia, real masterpieces of • The Parco Nazionale del Cilento, Vallo di nature. Everything is made even lovelier by Diano e , with the archaeological the rich Mediterranean vegetation, dotted sites of and Valia and the Certosa with small but pretty villages, where you di ; can spend your holiday immersed in histo- • Longobardi in Italia: I luoghi del potere ry and Campania’s traditions. How could (568 774 A.D.) at the Santa Sofia complex anybody forget nature’s imposing monu- in Benevento; ment that dominates this land? Vesuvius, • Celebrations with great shoulder-borne dark and mysterious, loved for its beauty processional structures: the Festa dei Gigli and feared for its power. And then Naples, (lily festival) in Nola. famous all over the world for the intensity Naples impresses the visitor with its live- and passion of its music, which, like the liness and the splendid colours of the sea city, mixes cultured and folksy, sacred and as well as with its history, which crops up profane, joyful and melancholic. Sorrento in every corner of the old town centre, the lies on a terrace of tuff overhanging the sea. biggest in Europe and a real outdoor muse- In this corner of paradise jagged and inac- um. Wherever you look there is something cessible coasts alternate with little, hidden lovely to see, baroque tabernacles, church- beaches, creating a unique landscape. Here es and obelisks. There are ancient handi- the work of mankind has been wonderful. crafts, from nativity scenes (in San Grego- The most inaccessible areas have become a rio ), to the incomparable skill of series of terraces sloping down towards the master lute makers, and then the ancient sea, used for growing citrus fruits, olives Borgo degli Orefici (goldsmiths’ district). and vines. These gardens give off the heady There are countless itineraries you can fol- perfumes of oranges, lemons and orange low: a visit to the castles, or the museums, blossom. Music, sea, fun and nature, but or the historic villas and palaces, or a tour history and culture too. To visit places like of the many churches containing priceless Paestum, Herculaneum, Pompeii, the Cer- masterpieces of sculpture and painting. tosa di Padula or the Reggia di Caserta is In the year 79 A.D. Herculaneum, Pom- an unforgettable experience and a journey peii, Oplonti and Stabia were completely back in time. The area is administratively destroyed by Vesuvius. The volcanic lava divided into 5 provinces: Naples (adminis- destroyed them but it then solidified and trative centre), Avellino, Benevento, Caser- formed an exceptional “protection”, which ta and Salerno. If you decide to spend your preserved the extraordinary remains, holidays in Campania you have plenty of which only came to light many centuries

119 later. A visit to the ancient Forum of Pompeii allows you to visit exceptional plac- es, liked the Casa del Fau- no, a monumental structure with spaces, rooms and areas devoted to various activities, the Sacrario dei Lari Pubblici, one of the most interesting pieces of architecture found in Pompeii, probably dedi- cated to the city’s protective deity, and the Casa dei Vetti, the interior of which is dec- orated with precious paint- ings. The is an absolutely unique landscape: bays, inlets and picturesque Pompeii: an intense sunset makes the old Via dell’Abbondanza even villages clinging to the sides lovelier of the mountain in miracu- lous equilibrium. The blue of the sea, the green of the marquetry flooring. This is a rale in Palinuro. A visit to Mediterranean maquis, the structure of colossal propor- the Certosa di San Lorenzo, colours and shapes of the tions: four courtyards, 1200 better known as the Certosa little houses, all blend to- rooms, more than 30 im- di Padula, one of the biggest gether to create one of the pressive staircases, the most monasteries in the world, is a most beautiful routes on famous one is the Scalone must. With an exceptionally the Italian coast. Positano, d’Onore (staircase of hon- beautify landscape, shaped Amalfi, Ravello, Minori and our), with 116 steps, and it is by the wind, by the sea and Vietri sul Mare are some of all surrounded by immense, by mankind, Campania of- the precious gems that form beautiful grounds. Archae- fers you countless ways of a necklace of little villages ology, nature and tradition enjoying its land and discov- (12 in all) along the coast. are the three distinguishing ering its highlights and the They look like little living features of the Cilento, Vallo perfect harmony between cribs, with their old alleys, di Diano e Alburni national history, nature, culture, folk- archways and squares, which park, a crossroads of cultures lore and wholesome flavours. charm you with their atmo- and people since prehistoric These are places where you sphere, sounds and scents. times. A precious trace of the can spend your holidays The Ravello Festival is or- past of this land is Paestum, practising sport and enjoying ganized every year in the which has the three best pre- yourself but, above all, where lovely setting of the Amalfi served Greek temples in the you can restore yourself and Coast, a must-see for peo- world. The Focesi, founders regain your psycho-physical ple that like to be charmed of Elea (now ) an an- balance by being pampered by great music played in an cient city famous for hav- in one of the many spas. incomparably beautiful set- ing been the home of great There are many places where ting. The Reggia di Caserta thinkers like Parmenides, you can regain new strength (palace), another UNESCO landed on the Cilento coast because in the past there site, is a real masterpiece of in 540 B.C. Outstanding were volcanic phenomena in architecture and decoration among the many Blue Flags them, which created many and it contains valuable mas- that fly on the Cilento coast aquifers, from which water terpieces. When you visit its certifying the quality of the with curative properties still interior you are amazed by sea and the services are the gushes today. the continuous succession of beaches of Cala and When we talk about spas we works of art, stuccoes, bas-re- Cala degli Infreschi in Cam- talk about Ischia, one of the liefs, frescoes, sculptures and erota and of the Arco Natu- pearls of the Bay of Naples,

120 . The story is told about a pizza maker who invented a tricoloured pizza in honour of Queen Mar- gherita of Savoy, made with tomatoes, mozzarella cheese and basil, which is still popu- lar today under the traditional name of “pizza Margherita”. Naples is also the land of spa- ghetti. There are many kinds of sauce and they are all very tasty but the important thing is for the pasta to be properly cooked and the Neapolitans are real masters where that is concerned. Another feather Capri (Naples): a view of the Faraglioni, wonderful rocks rising out of in the cap of this region is the sea cheese, with the famous buf- falo mozzarella, excellently made in the which, thanks to its volca- the island and see the love- and Piana del Sele areas. The nic origin, has one of the ly Blue Grotto; by booking most typical desserts are cer- best hydro-thermal heritages a helicopter tour and flying tainly pastiera napoletana (ri- in the world. Modern and over the whole Bay of Na- cotta pie), delicious sfogliatelle equipped wellness centres ples and the Herculaneum di ricotta (ricotta puffs) and offer a wide range of curative and Pompeii areas; or, if you babas soaked in liqueur. Of and aesthetic treatments for want to keep your feet on the course a land kissed by the getting back into the best of ground, by booking a guided sun and bordered by the sea form while surrounded by tour to see the most beauti- produces excellent wine, es- the charming scenery of this ful places and hear the most teemed internationally. There wonderful island. Castella- curious anecdotes. The sea is is a wide range of excellent mmare di Stabia, Pozzuoli, certainly Campania’s chief at- wines with strong and not-so- Contursi and Villamaina traction but the hinterland is strong flavours and wine buffs are some of the other local- also worth seeing. Old paths, can taste them by travelling ities where you can take a some of them dating back along one of the Wine Routes cure for your body and your 2000 years, lead into the in the good company of na- spirit. In the wonderful set- heart of the National and Re- ture, tradition and flavour. ting of the Bay of Naples, gional Parks, which contain Campania wines, from Taur- in addition to Ischia, there many traces of past history asi to , not forget- is one of the most famous in an exceptionally beautiful ting Greco di Tufo, Asprinio places in the world, Capri, natural setting. We find old d’Aversa, Lacrima Christi the queen of social life and traditions in the many fairs del Vesuvio, Fiano and Sol- luxury, a meeting point for and events held throughout opaca, go wonderfully at a political personalities, the the Campania area, which is dinner with traditional dish- jet set and film stars. A stroll also host to cultural events es, maybe even enjoyed on a through its mythical square of international importance. terrace overlooking the sea, is de rigueur for getting to the The cuisine is lively and sun- by candlelight, with a lovely heart of this island, so full of ny, mainly famous for typical Neapolitan song in the back- charm and mystery. This is- local produce. Thanks to the ground, finishing up with a land has many wonders and sun, Campania has the juic- Sorrento . there are many ways of see- iest and tastiest tomatoes in ing them: by hiring one of the world, used in sauces for Naples the famous and comfortable many local dishes and, last “gozzi” boats to sail around but not least, on the famous Naples is a treasure trove of

121 Naples, the magic of Teatro San Carlo, a world famous opera house art and history, with the in- building during the Angevin architectural work and con- delible footprints of dom- and Aragonese periods. The verted into a stately home. inations of the past, each of splendid Arco di Trionfo was Nearby is Porta Capuana, which contributed to the for- built on the order of King which used to be the main mation of this city which has Alfonso I of Aragon and de- gate into the city, outlined by such a rich heritage in its old signed by Pietro de Martino a lovely marble arch. There town centre that it has been and Francesco Laurana. On a are very many churches all included in the UNESCO small island, connected to the over the city. The Cathedral, sites. 2500 years of history nearby mainland by a bridge, built over older buildings, are recounted by buildings, stands the Castello dell’Ovo, part of which were includ- churches, monuments and a venue for exhibitions and ed in the present structure, art places, combined with the congresses, with a wonder- has undergone radical alter- everyday gaiety and imagina- ful view of the whole bay. ations, particularly on the tion typical of the Neapoli- Perched on the Vomero hill outside, to remedy the seri- tans. The city has four castles. is Castel Sant’Elmo, with a ous damage caused by seismic Castel Nuovo, better known view of the major road popu- events. It was Enrico Alvino as the Mascio Angioino, with larly known as “spaccanapoli” who, in 1800, designed the quite different but well in- because it divides the city into vertical lift characterising to- tegrated architectural styles, two parts. Lastly there is Cas- day’s façade, with pinnacles, which recall the dual role of tel Capuano, originally a for- aedicules and spires, built fortress-palace played by this tress and later beautified by around the structure that had 122 survived the earthquake. The interior, which has a Latin cross plan and a nave and two long aisles divided by two rows of pillars, has the famous Cappella del Tesoro di San Gennaro, which not only houses the two phials containing the saint’s blood, but also wonderful master- pieces made of precious met- als. Another important place linked with Naple’s patron saint is the Catacombs of San Gennaro, with very precious frescoes, mosaics and finds. The imposing Basilica of San Lorenzo Maggiore is the result of a set of architectural strati- fications built at different pe- riods; it is built over the ruins of Greek-Roman structures, which have been brought to life and can be visited through the entrance located in the internal cloister. Along the “Spaccanapoli” road you find the church of Gesù Nuo- vo, with an unusual façade recovered from a fifteenth century noble palace, and wonderful marble and picto- rial decorations inside it. The Santa Chiara monastery, with the plain, simple lines typical of Franciscan churches, con- tains the royal graves and the characteristic Chiostro delle Clarisse with unusual decora- Positano (Amalfi Coast) – UNESCO Site (ENIT Photo Library) tions completely in multi-co- loured majolica in the co- Sangro. Giuseppe Sammar- art: the Museo Archeologi- lours of this land. The church tino’s Cristo Velato sculpture co Nazionale, housed in the of San Domenico Maggiore, is famous and people are en- ancient Palazzo degli Studi. as majestic as a cathedral and chanted by the unusual skill The Palazzo Reale in Capo- containing numerous works with which the winding sheet dimonte, surrounded by big of art, is another interesting delicately resting on the body grounds, holds the Museo example of how Naples’ artis- of Christ was made. The rich e la Gallerie Nazionali di tic and cultural heritage was collections of old noble fam- Capodimonte, a wonderful formed. The Sansevero chap- ilies, like the Farnese and the collection of masterpieces by el, a wonderful combina- Borgia, and the many finds Titian, Raffaello, Correggio, tion of architecture and art, brought to light in Pompeii Masaccio, Mantegna, Car- popularly known as the “pi- and Herculaneum and in avaggio and the Neapolitan etatella”, or the “little pieta”, other parts of the South are masters. The Appartamento is linked with the versatile on display in ’s Reale (royal apartment) has personality of Raimondo Di biggest museum of ancient splendid furnishings, with

123 of great music and classical ballet, where world famous names, like Gioacchino Ros- sini and Gaetano Donizetti, have performed. In front of the entrance to the theatre is Galleria Umberto I, one of the most elegant arcades in Italy; its marble flooring is decorated with elegant geometrical patterns. Along Via Toledo, one of the city’s main roads, you come to the Quartieri Spagnoli, con- structed in the year 1500 by Don Pedro da Toledo for housing the troops; nowa- days it is a slum area steeped in the most authentic and genuine aspects of the Ne- apolitan personality. If you like shopping you have a choice of pieces of craftwork and amusing souvenirs to take home with you in re- membrance of Naples and its people. In the central streets there are workshops, shops and boutiques where you can buy whatever you like: from little terracotta status in San Gregorio Armeno, where creativity is at is peak at Christmas, to high fashion (Naples) creations and leather accesso- ries, ties and shoes, from pre- the salottino di Porcellana na from the most important cious gold jewellery to lovely (china parlour), a master- Italian and European facto- umbrellas made by hand of piece made by the Real Fab- ries. Among the main squares fine materials. The Naples lit brica in Capodimonte, some of Naples, the famous Piazza by the rays of the sun hides of the products of which del Plebiscito is a must, with another Naples, nestling un- are on display in the Galle- its wonderful colonnade, derground, dug out by the ria delle Porcellane. This is built to the orders of Gioac- ancient Greeks and then the the only museum that dis- chino Murat, facing one of Romans, who built a mas- plays ancient art side by side the sides of the magnificent sive aqueduct here, which with contemporary works Palazzo Reale, designed by was used until 1600. A guide by artists like Andy Warhol. Domenico Fontana, seat of takes visitors on this journey The Museo Civico Gaetano the Vittorio Emanuele III through time underneath Filangieri not only has a se- national library, the biggest Naples, a charming route ries of lovely sculptures and in Southern Italy, with very along underground passages paintings, it also has a good valuable, extremely ancient, and important finds, like the collection of European and items. Behind the Palazzo Greek-Roman Theatre. Oriental weapons, an excel- is the San Carlo theatre, the For more information visit the lent numismatic collection oldest opera house still oper- following website: and many fine pieces of chi- ational in Europe, a temple www.incampania.com 124 Paestum (Salerno) 125 126 BASILICATA

Basilicata is a region in Southern It- dining in one of the typical restau- aly bordered by Apulia, Calabria and rants in the port and then go on to Campania. You do not go there by have a dessert in one the cafes in the chance and you only go if you want square and stay up late at pleasant to enjoy a unique experience in plac- nightclubs. es where silence, colours, scents and The provinces are: Potenza (admin- flavours keep away the noise and istrative centre) and . Matera, stress of everyday life and bestow presently a candidate for European genuine sensations. The woods and Capital of Culture 2019, is the city of forests that clothe the mountains are the Sassi cave dwellings, a UNESCO dotted by small, charming villages, World Heritage Site since 1993. A some even at an altitude of 1000 me- walk through the alleys of the Civi- tres, where pure air, genuine flavours ta, the oldest part of the town, takes and the beauty of nature blend with you into the ancient urban settlement history. Basilicata is washed by two consisting of a network of caves dug seas: the Ionian and the Tyrrhenian, out of the rock. This archaic type of on the coasts of which there are many architecture, with no planning, cre- beaches where you can relax in the ated a real monumental masterpiece, sun and take a refreshing dip in the which attracts millions of visitors clear waters of a pristine sea. The Ioni- from all over the world. The city of an coast, with the well known Meta- Matera is a real natural film set and ponto resort, has wide beaches of very famous national and international fine sand, in some parts surrounded directors have chosen it as a location by pine woods and rows of eucalyptus for their films: Pier Paolo Pasolini trees, which give off a pleasant scent. filmed “The Gospel According to St. The Tyrrhenian coast, higher and jag- Matthew” and Mel Gibson filmed ged, has promontories perched over “The Passion” in Matera. A great deal the sea and little beaches here and of the Basilicata area is occupied by there, washed by a clear sea. Maratea, mountains, clothed in wonderful called the pearl of the Tyrrhenian, is woods and splendid forests: a really famous not only for the richness and spectacular landscape where you can beauty of its seabeds but for the pos- regain your strength, enjoy yourself sibility of taking boat trips along the and eat well all the year round. There coast, visiting the many marine caves, is a beautiful area where you can see and also for its lovely old town cen- the Lakes of Monticchio: the Lago tre and many churches. Also not to Grande and the Lago Piccolo are be missed are the imposing statue of two wonderful stretches of water in Cristo Redentore (Christ the Redeem- two craters – now extinct – of Monte er) on Monte San Biagio, from where Vulture and they are surrounded by there is a wonderful view of the gulf. thick, lush vegetation. In Maratea it can also be fun to have a In winter, when the high peaks are look round the shops in the old town coated with white, Basilicata is the centre or spend a pleasant evening ideal destination for skiers because

127 Parco Nazionale del Pollino, Lago del Monte Cotugno (ENIT Photo Library)

Maratea (PT), beach (ENIT Photo Library)

128128 there are so many facilities. In summer the Lucanian moun- tains become the ideal place for trekking, climbing, cy- cling, or just reading a good book. The egionr has a num- ber of options for sports and outdoor activities, also thanks to the streams and brooks flowing down the mountains and the lakes surrounded by luxuriant nature, on which you can practise sports like rafting or canyoning, canoe- ing or sailing, diving or sport fishing. The people ofuca L - nia are very proud of their cuisine, which is basic and flavourful and entirely based on local products, skilfully combined to make typical, very traditional dishes. The hard wheat pasta, made by hand using ancient tools like the rasola and the cavarola (a blade and a small chopping board) and the maccarunara (spaghetti cutter), is really delicious. For other formats like minuich (short pasta tubes) and tria (fried pasta strips) all that is needed is the skill of the housewife. The sauces are very spicy and always contain red pepper, one of the symbols of Luca- nian cuisine, which is more commonly known here as Lakes of Monticchio, Rionero in Vulture (ENIT Photo Library) “diavolicchio” (little devil). Panella, big loaves of bread made with flour and boiled potatoes, and pancotto, slic- also very popular. Famous lampascioni (hyacinth bulb) es of toast soaked in broth among meats is the Lucanica salad. Then a superb vegetari- with egg added to them, are lean pork sausage, made in a an combination is the “piatto two typical dishes based on number of variations, with- d’erbe alla lucana” (Lucanian bread, a common food in out any additives. Another style herb platter), which Lucanian cuisine. Lamb and queen of gastronomy is the contains onion, eggplant, cazmarr, meat loaf made vegetable, prepared in a vari- bell pepper, tomato, , with offal (gnumaredd in di- ety of tasty dishes. There are basil and parsley, cooked to- alect), and cutturiddi, a kind di verdure (vegetable gether and dressed with olive of stew, are other specialties roll) and (fried po- oil.Museo Nazionale della Sir- of Lucanian cooking. Lamb’s tatoes, bell peppers and egg- tide. head, cooked in the oven plant flavoured with tomato), and flavoured with orega- ciaudedda (with broad beans, no and pecorino cheese, is potatoes and artichokes), and

129 Metaponto (MT) , Tavole Palatine – Greek Temple (ENIT Photo Library)

Matera, The Sassi, reproduction of the inside of a house (ENIT Photo Library)

130130 Matera. The Sassi (ENIT Photo Library) Potenza the Archivio di Stato, with streets and wide flights of documents dating back to steps), inhabited from ancient Even though much of the city the 14th century and many times until the middle of the has been rebuilt following the parchments; the Romanesque last century; only their façades many earthquakes that have church of San Michele Ar- are in masonry, while the rest struck it down through the cangelo, built in Romanesque (often only one room) is dug centuries, Potenza still has style in the 13th century, out of the rock. Used since the many important traces of the which contains interesting Middle Ages the term Sassi past. Some of the monuments works like the “Madonna del literally means the “inhabited worth visiting are the Cathe- Carmine” and the “Madonna rocky districts” that grew up dral, built in the 12th centu- del Rosario e quindici mis- around the original centre of ry and altered in neoclassical teri”; the church of Santa Ma- the ancient town, the Civita, times, which contains fine ria del Sepolcro, dating back and occupy the two basins works of art; the Torre Gue- to the 12th century, inside of above the precipices of the vara, the ruins of an ancient which there is a marble bas-re- Gravina stream. They are Sas- mediaeval castle; Villa Roma- lief depicting a “Madonna col so Barisano and Sasso Caveo- na di Malvaccaro, with lovely Bambino e angeli”. so. The architectural landscape mosaics; the Edicola di San includes a series of churches, Gerardo, a little temple built Matera also dug out of the rock. Some in the 19th century to house a of the most interesting mon- highly venerated statue of the You cannot even imagine Ma- uments in Sasso Caveoso are Patron Saint of the town; the tera without the Sassi, which the rupestrian church of San- Museo Archeologico Nazio- have made the city famous all ta Lucia alle Malve, founded nale and the Museo Archeo- over the world. Included in by a Benedictine community logico Provincial, where there the list of Heritage Sites, the around the 8th century, the are many finds linked with “” are houses church of Madonna de Idris, historic events in Potenza and (superimposed one over the which leads into the crypt with Lucanian archaeology; other and joined by little steep of San Giovanni in Monter- 131 Castelmezzano, Lucanian Dolomites (PZ) (ENIT Photo Library) rone, with many lovely fres- Neolithic villages (Serra d’Al- Maria Maggiore in Rabata- coes from various periods, the to, Timmari and Murgia Tim- na, and the nearby church Cimitero Barbarico (barbarian one) and countless prehistoric of Santa Maria d’ Anglona. cemetery) in Rione Malve and tombs. In the south-eastern Also worth mentioning is the the four rupestrian churches area of Matera there is also a coastal area around the Ionian of the Convicinio di Sant’An- series of lovely little towns, in- Sea, the only flat ground in tonio. In Sasso Barisano there cluding Montescaglioso, with the province, where there are is the church of San Pietro the splendid Abbazia di San many archaeological remains Barisano, one of the biggest Michele Arcangelo, Miglioni- because in the past it was one churches dug out of the rock, co, with the imposing Castel- of the main centres of Magna and the church of Madonna lo del Malconsiglio, Beralda, Graecia. Of particular interest delle Virtù, built in baroque with the 15th century castle is the Metaponto archaeolog- style in 1591. Also worth and also Tricarico, Grassa- ical area, with its ruins and visiting in Matera are the Ca- no, Irsina and Ferrandina, all the Tavole Palatine, ruins of thedral, built in Romanesque with many monuments. If we a Doric-archaic temple dedi- style in 1268-70, Palazzo Lan- continue southwards we come cated to the goddess Hera, the franchi, an exceptional exam- to the lovely Calanchi area, Doric style Temple of Apollo, ple of 17th century architec- with white clay hills, pinna- and the Ionian temple dedicat- ture in Matera, and the many cles, cones and little canyons ed to Aphrodite, built around museums in the city, includ- carved out by the sun and the 470 B.C., the old agora with ing the “Domenico Ridola” rain. Also of interest in this the theatre and the Museo national archaeological muse- area is the charming village Archeologico Nazionale di um, and the Museo Nazionale of Craco, now uninhabited Metaponto, containing many d’Arte Medievale e Moderna, but full of historical layers, archaeological finds. Another and the MUSMA, Museo del- with the castle and a group of place of interest is Policoro, la Scultura Contemporanea di houses clinging to the rock, with the Castle, the archaeo- Matera. Another must is the behind which alleys, steps and logical park with Greek ruins Parco archeologico storico e squares spread out. Also worth and the Museo Nazionale del- naturale delle Chiese rupestri a visit is the town of Tursi, la Sirtide. del Materano, also a Heritage with the ancient La Rabatana For more information visit Site, which has more than 160 district, the ruins of the cas- the following website: rupestrian churches, three tle and the church of Santa www.basilicataturistica.com 132132 Matera, Feast of the Madonna della Bruno (ENIT Photo Library)

133 134 APULIA

This is a multiple land, a place that has Archangel Michael, who, according more than one soul, this is Apulia, the to local tradition, appeared there. “heel of the boot”, an enchanting re- However, if you want full immersion gion, suspended between nature, his- in history and tradition, tory, tradition, taste and spirituality, is a must. It is the homeland of the a lovely place to visit twelve months trulli, picturesque old stone houses of the year. with conical roofs, many of which If you like the sea you have plenty to offer accommodation nowadays and choose from here: the cliffs of Otran- form the city’s old town centre, rec- to and Santa Maria di Leuca, where ognised as a UNESCO World Her- the Ionian and Adriatic Seas meet, itage Centre. This is the Murgia dei Gallipoli, the “Jewel of the Trulli, land of sunny olive groves and area”, the Gargano promontory, also vineyards, of trulli and farms, of Ro- known as the “Sperone d’Italia” (spur manesque cathedrals and baroque of Italy), projecting into the clear wa- churches, of good eating and of tra- ters of the sea where the lovely Tremi- ditions. Here we find Cisternino, ti islands lie. Locorotondo and Ostuni, genuine Nature plays the leading role, with villages, full of typical art and culture, the Alta Murgia national park and the with their narrow alleys, courtyards, Gargano national park with the wild and little squares with their craft Foresta Umbra, and then the Monti workshops and restaurants. Dauni, the deep gorges of Laterza In addition to the trulli Apulia has and the wide sinkholes of Altamura, another UNESCO site, the Castel del which, with their lovely landscapes, Monte, a unique masterpiece of medi- characterise the inland part of the re- aeval architecture, built to the order gion. of Frederick II of Hohenstafen in the And if you want to take a trip through 13th century. Austere and solemn, history Apulia offers a wide choice of with an esoteric charm, it stands in places that recount the ancient or- spectacular solitude at a height of 540 igins of this land: from prehistoric metres. It was certainly not a defen- times to , from the sive fortress, but perhaps a hunting imperial period to the Renaissance, lodge or a centre for astronomical to the baroque splendours of Lecce teaching; today the mansion is the and Salento. symbol of Imperial Apulia, land of The provinces are: (administra- castles and cathedrals, including the tive centre), Barletta-Andria-Trani, Valle of the Ofanto river, the Adriatic Brindisi, Foggia, Lecce, Taranto. sea and the Alta Murgia hill. The devout, and even others, will A must-see Apulian art city is Lecce, want to visit San Giovanni Rotondo, with its baroque buildings, churches, a world pilgrimage centre since Padre the secret gardens of the old town Pio’s time, and Monte Sant’Angelo, centre and the scenic Piazza Duomo, with the famous UNESCO Heritage overlooked by the Cathedral, the Ves- Site, the Santuario dedicated to the covado (bishop’s palace) and the Pala-

135 Lecce, Piazza Duomo

Ostuni

136 Alberobello

Fasano (Solito Photo)

137 Polignano a Mare

Mattinata, Baia dello Zagare zzo del Seminario (seminary). um, the MarTa, is one of the artefacts dating back to the Lovely Taranto, the city of most important Italian areas 4th-2nd century B.C., it is well the two seas, with the Ara- dedicated to the culture of worth while visiting the old gonese Castle and the na- Magna Graecia; after see- town centre, once the acrop- tional archaeological muse- ing the famous Ori, golden olis of the Greek polis, where

138 , San Nicola we can see the 11th century deep and the life forms that a little known itinerary, the cathedral of San Cataldo, colonise this stretch of sea Monti Dauni route, with with the beautiful Cappel- create a lovely play of co- little villages where time lone (chapel), a masterpiece lours. But if you enjoy your- seems to be standing still. All of the Neapolitan school of self better above the water around are green hills and baroque décor. If you like there are many places where luxuriant woods, like those sporting holidays in direct you can practise windsurf or surrounding Faeto, Bovino contact with nature you have kitesurf, and not only during and Biccari, from where you many options. If you enjoy the summer. But Apulia is can depart to plunge into the thrill of exploring the not just sea: in order to dis- pristine nature, home to the sea there are certainly plenty cover the wonderful gifts of last wolves of Apulia. Let of choices. The clear waters nature and the traditions and yourself go on a slow holiday of the Tremiti islands are a travel in a different way a and taste the traditional dish- wonderful scene, with in- cycling tour is the ideal way es in a fascinating area where lets, caves and deep seabeds, of getting to know the area. knowledge and flavours all coloured by thick vegeta- You don’t need to be an expe- blend. has al- tion and populated by many rienced cyclist to take a trip ways been classified as “poor” species of fish. San Domino, on two wheels; all you need because of the simplicity San Nicola, Capraia, Cretac- is to want an alternative ex- of its ingredients and it can cio and Pianosa are the five perience. The itineraries are please every type of palate. islands of the Tremiti Archi- many and varied: through The cuisine has three strong pelago, a miniature paradise nature, pedalling along the points: wheat, vege- where history and nature paths of the Gargano or Alta tables and olive oil, which, blend perfectly to offer a Murgia parks, through his- combined with meat and wonderful landscape just tory, discovering the many fish, are always the basis for waiting to be explored. Santa traces of the past of this land, original dishes that maintain Maria di Leuca, between the or going inland to discover a genuine and unmistakable Ionian and Adriatic seas, is lifestyle far removed from the flavours. The cornerstone of another must. In some plac- frantic pace of the big cities. regional food is home-made es the seabeds are 90 metres Apulia will surprise you with pasta made of durum wheat 139 Bari, Basilica San Nicola (Franco Cappellari) or a mixture of hard and soft fida di Barletta tournament, and events are held today. A wheat: ; the small and the accensione della fo- splendid example of Apulian pasta shells symbolic of the cara (bonfire) in Novoli, are Romanesque architecture is region, also called chiancar- among the most famous. the big Basilica di San Nico- elle and stracenàte in dialect, la, which contains the body were once the main dish of Bari and its environs of the famous Saint. Its plain poorer families but are now A tour through the cathedrals luminous façade, flanked highly appreciated and served and castles dominating many by two towers of different in the best restaurants. Some of the old town centres is also shapes and sizes, has three of the excellent products that an opportunity to explore the portals through which you have earned the protection of area’s wonderful natural land- enter the naves, where there PDO or TGI labels are: Alt- scape. The starting point is are important works of art. amura bread, famous for its Bari, a crossroads of cultures The second most important flavour; sweet, juicy clemen- since ancient times. A city church in Bari is the Cathe- tines from the gulf of Taran- with two souls: the old town dral, flanked by a high bell to; the Bella della Daunia centre, surrounded by impos- tower and built over previous olive, grown in Foggia since ing walls and many streets ancient buildings. A beauti- the year 1400; the famous ex- leading to the discovery of fully decorated rose window tra-virgin olive oils; and the its rich cultural heritage, and and three portals enhance the fine wines from autochtho- the modern city, built at the design of the main façade. nous vines like , beginning of the 19th century, The new town, built at the Primitivo and Uva di Troia. which, as time went by, has desire of Gioacchino Murat, Many patron saints’ feast became the lively cosmopol- is crossed by the main shop- days, fairs and historic re-en- itan city of today. Along the ping streets, like Corso Ca- actments are organised all walls of the old part there vour, where the opera house, the year round in every part is the majestic Castle, built Teatro Petruzzelli, is located. of Apulia: the Carnival of to the order of Federico II A must-see on the Adriatic Putignano, the Feast of Saint of Swabia, with a big in- coast is Trani, with its majes- Nicholas in Bari, the Dis- ner courtyard where shows tic Romanesque Cathedral,

140 Monopoli, Porto Vecchio which looks as if it is rising ers standing out in the sky, as For more information visit up out of the sea, and the al- if trying to attract the visitor’s the following website: leys of the Giudecca district, attention. The last, but cer- www.viaggiareinpuglia.it the Synagogue of Scolano- tainly not the least interest- va, and the Santa Lucia and ing, stage is a visit to Gravi- Photo credits: Carlo Elmiro Sant’Antonio piers, with the na in Puglia, land of canals, Bevilacqua, Vanda Biffani, colourful fishing boats in the caves and ravines carved out Franco Cappellari, Leonar- background, and all the bars by underground water and do D’Angelo, Nunzio Pacella, and clubs that become so used as a refuge by humans in Carlos Solito. lively in the night time. Poli- the past. gnano a Mare, perched over the coast, is perfect for lovers of contemporary art, with the Fondazione Museo Pino Pascali; in Monopoli there are charming views of little churches, buildings, tower houses and clubs along the long Capitolo beach. When we go back up the Murgia, the landscape los- es the warm colours of the Mediterranean maquis, tak- ing on the dark shades of bleak land, and we come to Altamura, known mainly for its PDO bread. We can see the town perched on a hill of Taranto, Canal Navigabile (Carlo Elmiro Bevilacqua) the plateau with the big tow-

141 142 CALABRIA

This is the “toe of the boot”, the extreme labrese hinterland is a must and the Sila, south of Italy, washed by the Ionian and Serre, Aspromonte and Pollino parks are Tyrrhenian Seas and separated from Sicily some of the most interesting nationalistic by the Strait of Messina. destinations. Its mild climate, its rocky coasts alternating The “fiumare” (torrents) and “grandi pietre” with sandy shores, its pristine and mysteri- (big rocks) of Aspromonte, the “patriarchi ous nature, the intense flavours of the local vegetali” (plant patriarch trees) of Sila, and food, and the traces of its ancient origins, the rich fauna of Serre are only a few of the all combine to make Calabria a unique wonders of nature that this land contains. place, lovely in both winter and summer. When you think of Calabria what imme- Your every wish can come true. diately comes to mind are the sea and the If you like to bask in the rays of the sun beaches, where you can bask in the sun, and bathe in a crystal-clear sea, you can practise windsurf or kitesurf, or dive to see choose one of the charming resorts that the wonderful seabeds with their brilliant- dot the Tyrrhenian and Ionian coasts. ly coloured gorgonians and fascinating If you prefer getting to know about this wrecks from World War 2. land’s past, Calabria, cradle of Magna Calabria offers many options for amuse- Graecia and land of antique settlements, ment and relaxation to people who decide offers you a wide choice of churches, mon- to spend their holidays exploring the hin- asteries, castles, palaces and places where terland. centuries-old customs and traditions still Lovers of winter sports can opt for one of live on. the many ski resorts, which also have syn- The provinces are: Catanzaro (adminis- thetic tracks for training on skis all year trative centre), , Cosenza, round. Crotone and Vibo Valentia. For the more adventurous, a rafting excur- The whole world has heard of the famous sion along the river Lao or through the Sila Bronzi di Riace, on display in the Nation- gorges is certainly an experience not to be al Museum in Reggio Calabria, important missed. relics of Magna Graecia, a period that left a Alternatively, you can go down the river deep mark on the history of this land. without the aid of special craft (rafts) but These wonderful statues of two warrior he- just “walking”, diving into the water and roes are a rare example of classical Greek letting yourself down by rope on the more sculpture. difficult stretches (canyoning). For lovers of the sea, Calabria – with its The assistance of specialised guides makes 800 kilometres of coastline – offers beauti- these fascinating sports accessible for all. ful beaches, one of which is Capo Vatica- Another opportunity for learning and for no, in the Vibo Valentia province, said to enjoying yourself at the same time is ori- be one of the 100 most beautiful beaches enteering, a sport that started in the Scan- in the world: a long stretch of very fine dinavian countries, testing your ability to sand, edged by centuries-old trees and find your way. washed by crystal-clear water inhabited by The participant, equipped with a map and a wide variety of fish fauna. a compass, has to reach the finishing post A journey into the wild nature of the Ca- as quickly as possible, choosing the route

143 Isola Capo Rizzuto (KR) Capo Colonna (ENIT Photo Library)

independently but with The strong flavour of red pep- obligatory intermediate per is offset by the sweetness stages. of the famous Tropea red on- And why not try the thrill ions, protected by a PGI la- of “flying”? Specialised bel, used for flavouring food instructors will guide you but also as a cure. You could through the skies, firmly write a book about Calabrian fastened to the seat of a products and typical foods. paraglider, and show you Extra-virgin olive oil; wines; the beauty of Calabria liqueurs made with berga- from an absolutely differ- mot, liquorice, citron or ent perspective. Calabria herbs; honey and jam; pasta is the land where thrills with typical shapes (stran- are strong and intense. gugghij, , maccaruni) And so are its flavours. still made in the old way, are The famous Calabrian red just some of the delicacies pepper is proof of this. you can taste when you ex- We find it in most of the plore this wonderful region. typical Calabrian dishes: from (toast) Catanzaro with n’duja (chopped ba- con spread) or with sardel- This province is famous for la (a paste made of newly maritime tourism, especial- hatched sardines) known ly on the Ionian coast, but as “the poor man’s caviar”, there is also the beautiful to sauces for pasta, to fish Sila area. Places to visit on its Bronzi di Riace – Reggio Calabria dishes. slopes are Cortale, Taverna (De Agostini Picture Library)

144 Monasterace (RC) the excavations in Kaulonia (ENIT Photo Library)

Capo Vaticano (Vibo Valentia) (ENIT Photo Library)

145 Tropea (ENIT Photo Library)

Crotone, Capo Colonna-Hera Lacinia (ENIT Photo Library) and Tiriolo. a Norman castle. Villa Tri- has collections of prehistoric The main monuments in este is surrounded by beau- finds and antique coins. Catanzaro are the Cathedral, tiful gardens containing rare Soverato, known as the pearl and inside it the Madonna plants and marble busts of of the Ionian, is Calabria’s and Child, a statue by An- famous people of the region. leading tourist city, with tonello Gagini da Messina, Moreover, the Belvedere is a its nightlife and dozens of dating back to the 16th cen- perfect viewpoint for admir- nightclubs. Montepaone tury. ing the Fiumarella valley and consists of the old town cen- The Norman tower, square the Squillace Gulf. tre in the hinterland and the shaped and crenelated, is The Provincial Museum, lo- Lido overlooking the Costa what remains of the ruins of cated in the Villa Comunale, dei Saraceni – or Costa degli

146 Pizzo, Chiesa di Piedigrotta, completely dug out of the tuff (Vibo Valentia) ENIT Photo Library)

Aranci. has one of the oldest town The Municipality of Bor- centres in the region. gia is also famous for its ar- The first regional wind farm chaeological site, Scolacium, is located here now. which has the ruins of the Belcastro is situated on the pre-Roman settlement of south-eastern foot of Sila Skylletion, with the remains Piccola, towards the Ionian of roads, aqueducts, mauso- coast, equidistant from the leums, and a theatre and am- sea and the mountain. phitheatre. It is a typical mediaeval fief, Squillace gave its name to the standing on a rocky spur at Gulf and has several monu- the foot of the castle of the mental churches in the old Counts of Aquino, The al- town centre, as well as a Nor- leys are lovely and so nar- man Castle also known as row that a car cannot pass “Dei Borgia”. through them. There are In the streets you can see many churches from differ- traces of Greek, Roman, Sar- ent periods. acen and Byzantine domina- tion. For more information visit the Cortale, located in the nar- following website: rowest point of Calabria, is www.turiscalabria.it very important for its artis- tic-musical tradition and it 147 148 SICILY

Since ancient times, Sicily has always been glimpse of these marvels. The Roman Villa a crossroads of cultures, a blend of art and del Casale is a late Romanesque structure history, culture and archaeology, nature located in Piazza Armerina (in Enna), and landscape, sports, food and wine, mar- which is very famous for its exquisite archi- vellous coastlines and crystal clear waters, a tecture and elegant mosaics. Agrigento’s vast array of uniquely Mediterranean Greek temples are an architectural marvel, sights, sounds, colours and fragrances. The and at sunset, you can see the light turn treasures of this island, inherited over the them an intense yellow and pink; while in course of centuries that witnessed the pass- summer a night tour of the moonlit struc- ing of various cultures and civilizations, are tures makes for an unforgettable experi- testimony to the diverse people that have ence. Hellenic sanctuaries and necropolises lived here: from the Greeks to the Phoeni- dot the whole , spanning an cians, from the Romans to the Byzantines, archaeological area of 1,300 hectares. The from the Arabs to the Normans, from the are a volcanic archipelago Spaniards to the Austrians. This is one of comprising 7 islands: Lipari, Volcano, Sali- the real jewels of Southern Italy, a land to na, Stromboli, Filicudi, Alicudi and Panar- discover and experience via its broad range ea. These “seven pearls of the Mediterra- of off-the-beaten-path itineraries, which nean” are home to a number of span the most varied interests: nature, his- incomparable natural treasures: beaches, tory, traditions. With its myriad small is- coves, caves, inlets, stacks, seabeds and lands dotting the Sicilian coast, the Medi- other beauties of nature. The baroque old terranean here offers us landscapes, city centres of Val di are of incompa- fragrances and flavours of such a stunning- rable artistic and architectural beauty. Syr- ly unique and intense nature that only a acuse, an architectural jewel, with its ar- pristine natural territory could provide: chaeological park, theatre, quarries, parks, thermal springs, awe-inspiring vol- amphitheatre and the old city centre of canoes, and many other exuberant and fas- Ortigia, founded by Greek colonists from cinating sights and sounds. The island’s Corinth, and the remains of the temple of charm is enhanced by the archaeological Athena, currently a Cathedral. Pantalica’s treasures that bear witness to the roots of Necropolis, with more than 5,000 tombs the civilizations that settled this ancient built between the eighth and seventh cen- land. Sicily’s main cities are: , its tury B.C.. Finally, there is Mount Etna, capital, Agrigento, , Caltanissetta, Europe’s largest active volcano, declared a Enna, Messina, Ragusa, Syracuse and Tra- UNESCO World Heritage because of the pani. Sicily is renowned worldwide also for exceptional level of volcanic activity and its high number of UNESCO World Her- because of its documented activity dating itage Sites, which, with the recent inclu- back 2,700 years. It is a perfect spot to go sion of Mount Etna, now total seven sites skiing or for a hike with fantastic views of on the prestigious list: Villa del Casale, Val- the intense blue of the Sicilian seas. Sicily’s le dei Templi (Valley of the temples), the mediaeval towns and castles are also mag- Aeolian Islands, the late baroque cities of nificent places to visit. The undisputed rul- , Syracuse and the rupestrian er of this land is most definitely the sea, . Another folkloric which can be enjoyed and experienced in and intangible world heritage is the Opera many different ways: relaxing on a sandy dei Pupi marionette theatre. Here is a brief beach enjoying the fantastic scenery of the

149 (Trapani): Do you see an elephant with its trunk in the water? Well, you’re at elephant bay (De Agostini Picture Library) coastlines, snorkelling and Turchi, a huge rock wall nean vegetation, and others scuba diving in its waters, or overlooking the sea near yet are just a few steps away riding its waves and winds on Agrigento. The most famous from the sea or right by a salt a windsurf or kite surf for place near Syracuse is Fon- pit. The vulcanelli delle Ma- which the world champion- tane Bianche. For those who calube di Aragona (in Agri- ship is held in Sicily, in Mo- love sports and the great out- gento) also make for an un- thia. The force of the sea, doors, Sicily offersforgettable experience. Since mixed with the strength of breath-taking landscapes ancient Roman times, Sicily the winds, is the perfect op- that are perfect for the enjoy- has been a sought-after desti- portunity to experience ment of diving, trekking, nation for those seeking ther- “gliding” or even “flying” on kayaking, rock climbing, mal treatments. A land of the pristine waters that caress MTB and horseback riding. water and volcanoes, Sicily the coasts of San Vito lo The exuberant plant life, has a wide range of therapeu- Capo and the Zingaro natu- mild climate, beautiful tic and cosmetic spa treat- ral reserve, Mondello, Ce- mountains and crystal clear ments. The most famous falu, Marina di Ragusa, waters, high-end resorts and thermal locations are those Taormina, the Aeolian Isles, hotels, and the traditional in Sciacca, Ali Terme, Volca- the , Pantel- colours and fragrances of the no, Terme Vigliatore, Termi- leria, Lampedusa, region are joined by spectac- ni Imerese, Montevago Ac- (which is also a scuba diving ular golf courses, some with qua Pia and finally Acireale, paradise), Menfi, Torre Salsa Mount Etna or Punic Ne- where underground seawater (for nudists), Capo d’Orlan- cropolises as their backdrop, blends with sulphuric waters do, Patti, Letojanni and Fi- while others are located in from Mount Etna. The Isti- umefreddo near Messina, the historic parks from the eigh- tuto Nazionale di Dramma Playa di Catania, the coast of teenth century or surround- Antico INDA (national in- San Leone and the Scala dei ed by the unique Mediterra- stitute of ancient drama) 150 Palermo, Cathedral

Ispica S. M. Maggiore (Ragusa)

151 Sicily, (Palermo): scenes from the Bible depicted on the golden mosaics of the Duomo (ENIT Photo Library)

Caltagirone: staircase with ceramic decorations (Catania) (ENIT Photo Library)

152 Taormina, Greek Theatre (Messina) puts up great shows at the colourful event. Acireale’s quisite platters, reveals the scenic Teatro Antico (ancient celebration is particularly fa- passion and attention to de- theatre) of Syracuse, while mous for its creativity and tail that characterizes the Si- the Teatro Massimo in Paler- originality, with allegorical cilian people and their love mo and Taormina Arte at the floats built in papier-mâché for genuine flavours. There Teatro Antico in Taormina and decorated with many are a myriad of traditional organize a great variety of flowers, for a parade that is platters that are renowned thrilling shows. The Segesta also a delightful and colour- worldwide for their Mediter- and Selinunte archaeological ful masquerade. Ritual and ranean flavour. Pasta alla areas also offer shows and tradition find their expres- norma, pasta with sardines, performances. But Sicily is sion also in the many cele- with broccoli, sarde a beccafi- also a land of contemporary brations in honour of the co, just to name a few. The art, the Cretto di Burri and various Patron Saints of Sici- tiny silver anchovies, the ex- the Atelier sul Mare art hotel ly, with events that are a quisite red tuna and the pink are perfect examples of the blend of faith and folklore swordfish, as well as savoury work of artists from the last and reflect the profound de- cheeses, like Caciocavallo century. Sicily’s archaeologi- votion of the Sicilian people. and Ragusano, and even cal museums, on the other In July, there is the feast of Bronte’s pistachio nuts: just a hand, host exquisite treasures Saint Rosalia in Palermo, few of the traditional ingre- dating back to prehistoric while in February there is dients used to prepare the times, while regional galleries Saint Agatha’s Feast in Cata- local delicacies. A platter that display mediaeval, renais- nia, being just a few of the every visitor should try is the sance and baroque works of many celebrations held year- Trapani style . In art, and contemporary art ly throughout all of the re- Sicily, reigns su- museums host pieces from gion. Noto’s Infiorata flower preme. Palermo is Italy’s only the last two centuries. Sicily festival is a beautiful event. city included in the world’s is also a land of many fairs held in spring in this baroque top ten for street food. The and traditional festivals. town. The charm and panino con la milza (a spleen There are many festivals on warmth of this land has even sandwich), the and the occasion of the Carnival, influenced the Sicilian cui- crocché fritters, the arancine the year’s most cheerful and sine, which, through its ex- (stuffed and fried rice balls) 153 and the sfincione (a type of nomic delicacies used in Si- colourful historic markets of ), cardi fritti cilian cuisine, along with Ballarò and del Capo to its (fried cardoons) and the cheeses like the Ragusano or luscious verdant parks: Par- stigghiola (a type of ), Piacentino, and many differ- co della Favorita, the one at the (a traditional ent types of cold cuts and Villa Giulia, the Giradino di aubergine platter), the octo- baked goods like the pagnotta Garibaldi and the Giardino pus and the sea urchin, are di Dittaino bread. Sicily’s Inglese. The buildings in the some of the many delicacies wine has grown in popularity old centre are witnesses to the on offer here. Even Catania and prestige in recent years, city’s glorious past: majestic has its own street food tradi- with some excellent wines Palazzo dei Normanni or even tion. For lunch, there is a with bold and full-bodied fla- Palazzo Reale with the Palati- long list of hors d’oeuvres, vours, like the Passito di Pan- na Chapel, filled with ancient delicious main courses and telleria and the Nero d’Avola, mosaics in gold-foil; there is second courses with fish or which are renowned world- also the spectacular Duomo di meat, followed by the plea- wide. Sicily is home to many Monreale, the church of San sures of the unparalleled Si- PDO and TGI products, Giovanni degli Eremiti; the cilian pastries, where Ricotta which makes the island one Cathedral, a masterpiece of cheese and almond paste the points of reference world- Arab-Norman architecture, reign supreme. A variety of wide for Mediterranean cui- which hosts the collections extra virgin olive oils, the de- sine, well known for the au- of the Diocesan museum. liciously juicy blood oranges thenticity of its products. Particularly noteworthy is the and the sweet grapes of Cani- Chiesa del Gesù (the church of cattì, the Pachino tomatoes Palermo Jesus), one of Palermo’s most and the Pantelleria capers, important baroque architec- the prickly pears and olives of A picturesque city dominat- tural works, while the Ora- Nocellara del Belice, Castel- ed by its red Arabic domes, torio del Santo Rosario di San vetrano’s black bread, are all the majestic façades of its Domenico (oratory of the holy just a few of the many gastro- luminous palaces; from the rosary of Saint Dominic) and the Oratorio di Santa Cita o Zita (oratory of Saint Zita) are famous for their intricate- ly designed stucco façades and their exquisite interiors. A tour of the city must always include a visit to the Martora- na or Chiesa di Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio, which hosts one of the most important se- ries of mosaics in all of Sicily; the Church of Saint Cather- ine, with its richly decorated interiors, and the Chiesa del Magione, which was found- ed in the twelfth century. For a uniquely distinct tour, visit the Catacombs of the Capuchin monks. Anoth- er must-see is the botanical gardens. For some beautiful scenery, visit Castello Utveg- gio, which overlooks the city from Mount Pellegrino. For more information visit the following website: Piazza Armerina, Villa del Casale www.regione..it/turismo/web_turismo/ 154 Valle dei Templi (valley of the temples), Tempio della Concordanza - Agrigento (De Agostini Picture Library)

155 156 SARDINIA Thousands of years of history steeped in beach stands the tower of the same name, fascination and mystery, a very distinctive a 16th century Aragonese building, one of cultural identity and a unique mix of cli- the many ancient watchtowers in Sardinia. mate and natural beauty make this island Castelsardo also overlooks this Gulf, but in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea a from the other side. You can stop there to land to visit, discover and love, and it has see its lovely mediaeval old town and the deep, almost indissoluble, links with its castle of the Genovese family, Doria. Be- inhabitants and its guests. Sardinia dis- fore going west along the coast it is well plays to its visitors a treasure trove of lovely worth while stopping in Sassari, where beaches and crystal-clear and temperate two typical events of Sardinian culture seas, mountains and valleys of volcanic ori- are held: in mid-May there is the Caval- gin, breath-taking scenery and natural con- cata Sarda (horse parade) and, on the 14th trasts of lights and colours, and also cul- of August (the day before the Feast of the ture, art, monuments, fairs and big events, Assumption) there is the Discesa dei Can- artistic crafts and traditional cuisine. delieri (candlestick procession). On the Around its circumference (1800 metres of road again, along the north-eastern coast, coastline), where stretches of sand alternate we come to the charming port of Santa with high promontories, you can enjoy a Teresa di Gallura, at the centre-north end; lovely itinerary with frequent and thor- surfers and sailors should make a short vis- ough visits, to discover the hinterland with it to the Rena Bianca beach. On the east, its wild, and often pristine, scenery. The amid the charms of Gallura, is the Costa first stop is Alghero, on the north-western Smeralda, one of the most famous tourist coast. Known as ‘Barceloneta’ (little Barce- resorts in the world. In particular there is lona) because the people speak an Alghero Porto Cervo (in the Arzachena area), built version of Catalan, it is the chief town of around the natural port, which is now the the red coral Riviera. Of the many beach- best equipped tourist port on the Mediter- es, Bombarde is worth mentioning. Not to ranean; it dates back to the sixties when be missed is an excursion to Capo Cassia, Prince Karim Aga Khan IV opened up this an impressive calcareous rock promonto- area to luxury tourism. From the port to ry, also famous for its many marine caves. the beaches: Cala Moresca and Cala Pittu- Going northwards we see the island of As- longu (in Porto Cervo and Porto Rotondo) inara with the colonies of white donkeys attract lovers of crystal-clear atmospheres. that still live wild there. This is a part of A few minutes by sea takes us to the Madd- the country where you ought to go on an alena archipelago, an ideal place for divers: excursion by bicycle or in the little train, the underwater world is just as beautiful as and bathe in the waters of Sardinia’s big- what we see on the surface. Along the coast gest island, the national park of which is an of the park’s main island you can stop for a extremely beautiful treasure of nature and bathe on the Relitto or Spalmatore beach. avifauna, with many rare species. You can Then you come to Porto Massimo, a tour- easily get there from Stintino. Christened ist resort located in the north-eastern area. the “capital of the lateen sail” and famous The marina, framed by pristine scenery, for “La Pelosa” (an oasis of white sand in directly faces another island, Caprera, with a sea of inimitable colours), the town was many pastures and pine woods, where founded by fishermen who originally lived there is a Garibaldi museum and Garibal- on . Time has not altered the charm di’s tomb. Sailing from Caprera towards of the old fishing village. Beside the Pelosa the Bocche di Bonifacio you are struck by

157 Temple of Antas (Carbonia-Iglesias) (ESIT Photo)

Carbonia-Iglesias, Costa di Masua (ESIT Photo)

158 Arbatax (Ogliastra) (ESIT Photo) the wild splendour of the beautiful beaches: Cala And then we go on to visit Budelli island, with its lovely Brandinchi (in San Teodoro, the Gennargentu, Sardinia’s Spiagga Rosa (pink beach), a little further north than the biggest mountain complex, which gets its colour from Gulf), Berchida (in Sinisco- with its picturesque scenery shells and corals. From here la) and Bidderosa (in Oro- where man and nature have you go a little further south sei). Then we land at Cala come together, with nature along the Tyrrhenian coast to Gonone, perched on a steep taking the leading role. The Capo Coda Cavallo and the hill. This lovely hamlet of fauna is plentiful, with mou- , in one of Ita- Dorgali has some wonderful flons, golden eagles, Sardini- ly’s loveliest marine protected coves (Cartoe, Cala Fuili and an deer and various almost areas; everyone likes diving Cala Luna), some of which extinct species. The Gennar- on the delightful seabeds. can only be reached by sea or gentu area is not just trek- Further south. Departing along paths from the hinter- king and archaeological ex- from Porto Ottiolu, used by land. A must in this area is an cursions, you can ski here the Romans as a landing excursion to the Grotta del too, especially on Bruncu stage on the Sardinian coasts, Bue Marino. We set out from Spina and Monte Spada. we can visit the Gulf of Oro- Dorgali for not-to-miss trek- Further south, the natural sei. The bay is famous for king in the fascinating ar- continuation of the marine some of Sardinia’s most chaeological area of Tiscali. itinerary is a visit to Oglias-

159 tination because of its many white beaches (Cala Giunco, for example). Nowadays it is one of the most popular re- sorts on the Mediterranean. We move from the south-eastern end to the Sar- dinian capital. Cagliari for Sardinians is “Casteddu”, the castle. The fortified area is full of monuments: the me- diaeval Rampart of Saint Remy, the Elephant and the San Pancrazio Towers, the Cathedral of Santa Maria, lo- cated in the beautiful Piazza Palazzo, and the ‘Cittadella dei Musei’, with its muse- ums. Outside the walls are the Amphitheatre and the Villa of Tigellio, from Ro- man times, and the Tuvixed- du Necropolis, with hun- dreds of tombs dating back to between the 6th century B.C. and the 1st century A.D., and many other early mediaeval constructions. The city looks down on some ar- eas of naturalistic value, the ponds of Molentargius (with many colonies of flamingos) and Santa Gilla; there are spectacular stretches along its coastline, like Poetto, which reaches the foot of the hill called ‘Sella del Diavolo’. We Orosei (Nuoro) (ESIT Photo) start again from here across the Golfo degli Angeli to- tra, with scenery marked by nated coast of the Mediterra- wards Pula, along the same Mediterranean maquis re- nean, with the road as the fair of Sant’Efisio, flected in the transparent wa- not-to-be-missed Cala Sis- one of the most important ters of the creek of Santa Ma- ine, Cala Mariolu and Cala religious and folkloric events ria Navarrese, a coastal Goloritzè (all in the Baunei in all Sardinia, enhanced by hamlet of Baunei. The sym- area), which the keenest and the traditional costumes of bol of Santa Maria is a little most skilled trekkers in the every town participating. church, probably dating back world opt for every year. We The main cultural attraction to the year 1000, which, leg- head for the south-eastern in Pula is the Phoenician-Pu- end has it, the Princess of coast to admire the very long nic and Roman ruins in Navarre had built in honour (10 kilometres) beach of Nora. This was probably the of Our Lady, because she had Costa Rei and dive on the island’s most important city survived a shipwreck. We seabeds of Capo Ferrato (in at the time of the Roman leave from the port of Santa the Muravera area) and then conquest (238 B.C.). The re- Maria to explore 40 kilome- make a stop at the port of mains of the old town are the tres of the must uncontami- Villasimius: a wonderful des- forum, theatre, tophet, tem- 160 ple of Tanit, thermal baths and dwellings. From culture to the beaches, the lovely ones of Chia, like Cala Cipol- la (perfect for kite surfers) and the wild ones of Teulada, Tuerredda for instance, which can be explored by bi- cycle or on horseback. Before going back to our travels we can immerse ourselves in the folk traditions of the prov- ince of Cagliari, in search of the mysterious “tombs of the giants” and the “domus de janas”, ancient graves carved out of the rock, and the nura- ghic villages of Barumini, considered a Heritage Site. There are more than seven thousand nuraghes scattered throughout the island: they are truncated conical stone towers and are the biggest and best preserved megalithic monuments in all Europe, unique in the world, traces of an ancient culture that exist- ed between the 15th and 6th centuries B.C. We go back west, on the coasts of Sulcis. Sulcis was Sardinia’s mining centre and so the recent de- velopment of tourism is one more reason for discovery for people who thought they al- ready knew everything about Sardinia. The mines are open to the public now, thanks to Olbia – Temple, Costa di San Teodoro (ESIT Photo) the Parco Geominerario, a no- table example of industrial ry, here the Arbus marina, Mal de Ventre (Cabras) is- archaeology. We can take the and especially the beaches of land, frequented by divers port of Sant’Antioco as a Piscinas and Torre dei Corsa- and very popular with inter- starting point for diving at ri, are well worth a visit. Fur- national surfers. Inland, a (Carlo- ther up, in the Oristano area, stop at the Tharros archaeo- forte), which offers expert we make a stop at the Marina logical site, of Roman times, technical tips, and for a dive of Torregrande, a little fishing from which there is a won- into the waters of Porto Pino village that grew up around derful view down to the sea, (in Sant’Anna Arresi), Masua the ancient Spanish tower, is a must. Last stop: Bosa, a and Pan di Zucchero (Igle- the biggest in Sardinia. The mediaeval village, unique of sias), and Cala Domestica (a almost 3 kilometres-long its kind in Sardinia. A visit to Buggerru), a breath-taking strand runs from the mouth the old town centre and the place. A little further north of of the Tirso as far as the port. castle is a must. A thing the Buggerru we come to Medio From here we depart to visit whole island has in common Campidano, Sardinia’s grana- the Sinis peninsula and the is its authentic Sardinian hos- 161 Cabras Tharros (Oristano) (ESIT Photo) pitality, with many acts of forgetting lobster (Alghero is first and second courses may be kindness and a cuisine re- particularly recommended) accompanied by Sardinian nowned all over the world. Fa- and tuna (with Carloforte in pecorino cheese, and an endless mous traditional specialities the forefront), sea urchins and variety of almond cakes, honey include: porchetto (roast suck- mussels and clams. The bread, and pastries. Food can be ling pig), cordula (grilled intes- like ‘su coccoi’ (rolls in various washed down with first-class tines of milk-fed lamb or calf), shapes), ‘su civraxiu’ (big cir- wines like Cannonau and Ver- boiled mutton, home-made cular loaves), or carasau (crispy mentino and accompanied by charcuterie and sausages, all sheets), and the home-made liqueurs like myrtle. All these typical delicacies of the hinter- pasta, like culurgionis (kind of ingredients greatly contribute land. De rigueur at the sea are ravioli), fergola (tiny balls of to a very high quality of life. mullet (bottarga, mullet roe dough) or malloreddus (small For more information visit prepared in Cabras, is a must), dumplings) would appeal to the following website: grilled bass, bream or eels, not any palate. Hors d’oeuvres and www.sardegnaturismo.it

Villasimius

162 Cagliari, view from the Castle (ENIT Photo Library)

163 MUSEUMS AND PERMANENT EXHIBITION AREAS

times and opening its doors There are integrated prices ITALY’S GREAT to exhibiting modern works and special reductions MUSEUMS during the following centu- Info and reservations: ries. Today it is the kingpin phone +39.06.0608. Uffizi Gallery, of the “Sistema dei Musei in Florence - www.uffizi.firenze.it Comune” (civic museums Vatican Museums. Foremost home of Renais- system). Rome - www.museivaticani.va sance and fourteenth century Normal opening hours: Van Gogh, Matisse, Michel- art, the Uffizi Gallery con- Tuesday through Sunday, angelo, Caravaggio, Giott, tains absolute masterpieces 9.00 a.m. to 8.00 p.m. Leonard… The museums of Italian art. Tickets: cultivated by the Popes for Normal opening hours: full price Capitoline Muse- five centuries offer visitors Tuesday through Sunday, ums and Montemartini Pow- the possibility of enjoying 8.15 a.m. to 6.50 p.m. er Station 13.00€ the works of the greatest art- Tickets: reduced 11.00€ ists in history. full price 6.50€ reduced 3.25€ There are integrated prices and special reductions Info and reservations: phone +39.055.294883. Palazzo Pitti, Florence www.uffizi.firenze.it/musei/?m=palazzopitti The Florentine palace is the imposing setting for one of the most varied collec- tions of art in central Italy: painting, sculpture, ceram- ics, goldsmithery… every branch is found in it. Normal opening hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 8.15 a.m. to 6.50 p.m. Tickets: full price 8.50€ reduced 4.25€ Info and reservations: phone +39.055.2654321. Capitoline Museums, Rome www.museicapitolini.org Since 1734, the first pub- lic museum in the world has been showing visitors the splendours of classical

164164 Normal opening hours: Normal opening hours: Normal opening hours: Monday through Saturday, Tuesday through Sunday, Tuesday through Sunday, 9.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. (clos- 8.30 a.m. to 7.30 p.m. 8.30 a.m. to 7.15 p.m. es at 6.00 p.m.) Tickets: Tickets: Tickets: full price13.50€ full price 5.00€ full price 15.00€ reduced 10.25€ reduced 2.50€ reduced 8.00€ There are integrated prices Info and reservations: There are integrated prices and special reductions. Ad- phone +39.02.722631. and special reductions vance booking is required. Info and reservations: Info and reservations: Capodimonte Museum, phone +39.06.0608. phone +39.06.8413979. Naples reservations at number http://www.polomusealenap- Borghese Gallery, +39.06.32810 oli.beniculturali.it/museo_cp/ Rome - www.galleriaborghese.it museo_cp.html The collection started by Sci- Brera Art Gallery, The Farnese collection, to- pione Borghese at the begin- Milan - www.brera.beniculturali.it gether with the Bourbon ning of the 17th century hosts Milan’s most important mu- collection, is housed in this masterpieces by Caravaggio, seum is an interesting trea- splendid Neapolitan Palace. Raffaello, Titian as well as sure trove of works of art, A particularly vast cultural classical antiques and mag- particularly religious art, offer is completed by the area nificent sculptures by Cano- collected since the end of the devoted to contemporary art. va and Bernini. 18th century. Normal opening hours: every day except Wednesday, from 8.30 a.m. to 7.30 p.m. Tickets: full price 7.50€ (6.50€ after 2 p.m.) reduced 3.75€ Info and reservations: phone 848.800.288 or +39.06.39967050. Egyptian Museum, Turin - www.museoegizio.it Champollion said: “The road to Memphis and The- bes passes through Turin”. And to be precise, it passes through this museum, the most important in the world after Cairo. Normal opening hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 8.30 a.m. to 7.30 p.m. (last admission 6.30 p.m.) Tickets: full price 7.50€ reduced 3.50€ Info and reservations: phone +39.011.4406903.

165 THEATRES AND AUDITORIUMS

TEATRO ALLA SCALA IN MILAN ROMAN THEATRE IN OSTIA ANTICA www.teatroallascala.org www.ostianticateatro.it Founded in 1776, the Teatro alla Scala is cer- The ruins of Ostia Antica and its theatre come tainly the most famous Italian opera house to life every year to host a series of summer and its season’s opening night is an interna- events in their unique atmosphere. tionally important social event. PARCO DELLA MUSICA AUDITORIUM LA FENICE THEATRE IN VENICE IN ROME www.teatrolafenice.it www.auditorium.com Splendidly risen from its ashes in 2003 after it All year round the futuristic “scarabs” of had been destroyed by fire 7 years before, the Renzo Piano host a full calendar of musical La Fenice Theatre is one of the places that has events. made the history of Italian symphonic music. GREEK THEATRE IN TAORMINA ARENA IN VERONA www.taorminafestival.org www.arena.it In addition to music, ballet and opera, the Every year, from June to August, the arena Greek Theatre is famous in particular for be- from Roman times, perfectly preserved in Ve- ing the location of the Taormina Film Fest, a rona, hosts one of the most important opera cinema event that brings world cinema to the festivals in the world. banks of the Mediterranean every June.

166166 GREEK THEATRE IN SYRACUSE a wonderful place to enjoy the works of Nea- www.indafondazione.org politan baroque melodrama. Sophocles, Euripides, Aeschylus… the full programme of the Greek Theatre in Syracuse SFERISTERIO IN MACERATA every summer takes us back in time, with the www.sferisterio.it same dramas staged now as thousands of years This unique pearl of Italian neoclassicism, ago. built to host sports in the nineteenth century, now hosts an interesting opera festival in its RAVELLO AUDITORIUM massive structure every summer. www.ravellofestival.com Niemeyer’s creation is the most recent and futuristic setting in Ravello, city of music. In addition to the usual programme, the audito- rium hosts part of the famous Ravello Festival (from July to September). SAN CARLO IN NAPLES www.teatrosancarlo.it The historic theatre of the Neapolitan city, built to the order of the Bourbons in 1737, is

167 UNESCO SITES PIEDMONT Savoy Royal Palaces The fifteen Savoy buildings – villas, palaces and castles – located near Turin bear witness, with their magnificent architectural style, to the splendour of the most import- ant Piedmont noble family. Almost all the buildings are open to visitors, but with different times and procedures. PIEDMONT Landscape of Piedmont: Langhe- and Monferrato The hills of Langhe-Roero and Monferrato in South- ern Piedmont are a vast territory spanning five different winemaking areas, located between the river Po and the Ligurian Apennines. The exceptional beauty of these landscapes, which have been shaped by mankind as a result of the craft of winemaking, in the shade of the beautiful Grinanze Cavour Castle, are a living witness of the history and culture of wine, which is inextricably linked to the lives of the people of Piedmont. The rows of vines, the types of crops and the production systems used are all defining traits of this unique landscape that is constantly evolving in an ongoing pursuit of balanc- ing innovation and tradition. This constant pursuit of excellence and the heritage of traditional knowledge combined give us the exquisite traditional wines Barolo, Asti Spumante, Barbera d’Asti, , Moscato Bi- anco and Barbera, great wines of international renown. The whole area is just waiting to be explored with a broad range of itineraries available. PIEDMONT AND LOMBARDY Sacri Monti Located partly in each of the two regions, in the Prealpine area, the nine complexes covered by the UNESCO defi- nition are a wonderful combination of architectural, spir- itual and scenic values. Started in the 15th century they are still an important destination for believers and others. LOMBARDY Monte San Giorgio Like a gigantic casket, Monte San Giorgio, on the border with Switzerland, brings back memories of ancient times through its priceless heritage of fossils. A great many of the more than 10,000 examples of fossil fauna and flora, which came to light in this area divided between Italy and Switzerland, are still kept in the museums in the area. LOMBARDY Crespi d’Adda The Industrial Village This real workers’ village, built at the end of the 19th century, springs from an illuminated industrial mental-

168168 ity, careful about the balance between the quality of the products and the living conditions of the workers. As the village is still inhabited it has no opening or closing hours and can be visited with or without a guide. LOMBARDY Mantua and Sabbioneta A little-known but very important expression of the Renaissance. The cities of Mantua and Sabbioneta are the emblem of the most significant Renaissance town planning concepts, without neglecting the exceptional value of each piece of architecture. LOMBARDY The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci The sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie, in Milan, contains the most famous and significant picture of Christ’s last supper, painted at the end of the 15th centu- ry by an artist who symbolizes the Renaissance period: Leonardo da Vinci. The work can be seen from Tuesday through Sunday, buying a ticket in advance.

LOMBARDY Rhaetian Railway Because of its unique route and integration with the envi- ronment it travels through, the Rhaetian Railway of the Al- bula and the Bernina has become something much different from an ordinary means of transport. In fact, the “little red train” that links Italy and Switzerland has acquired the un- usual and well-deserved role of a tourist destination. LOMBARDY Rock art in Val Camonica The diary, written on stone, of the origins of the cam- munic civilization was the first Italian site to be includ- ed in the UNESCO Heritage Sites. The area’s rupestri- an sites are included in seven natural or archaeological parks: a visit to them reveals the ancient need of men to communicate their daily life, beliefs and rituals. VENETO, TRENTINO, FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA Dolomites The Dolomites, which became a Heritage Site in 2009, are a group of mountains that are special from the geological point of view and unique for their beauty. Nowadays the Dolomites are popular with lovers of the mountains, skiers and naturalists. VENETO Padua Botanic Gardens “The Padua Botanic Garden is at the starting point of all botanic gardens in the world and represents the cradle of science, scientific exchanges and the understanding of the relationship between nature and culture.” This description

169 given by UNESCO gives a better idea than any other of the uniqueness of this site, which can be visited all year round. VENETO Venice and its Lagoon There is no place in the world like Venice and probably no city as famous. Venice, its system of canals and its splendid architecture have kept their charm intact over the centuries, and fully deserved to be included among the UNESCO sites. VENETO City of Verona With a very ancient structure capable of developing over the millennia without every losing its harmony, the city of Romeo and Juliet is one of Italy’s best examples of town planning. The number of excellent examples of architecture and art add to its value. VENETO Vicenza and the Palladian Villas in the Veneto There are as many as 39 sites included in this definition: the constellation of villas designed by Andrea Palladio around the middle of the sixteenth century. This archi- tectural experience was destined to influence European and North-American styles in the centuries to come. The villas can be visited, with different opening hours and procedures, available on the spot. FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA LOMBARDY – UMBRIA – APULIA Longobards in Italy. Places of the Power The serial property “Longobards in Italy. Places of the Power (568-774 A.D.)” spans the most important archi- tectural heritage left by the Longobards in Italy. Span- ning the peninsula from north to South, these were the domains of the most important dukedoms of the Lon- gobards, who formed the first “nation” that we could truly define as Italian. Carefully selected, the proper- ty represents the quintessence of Longobard culture at its apex. During their time in Italy, the Longobards assimilated the culture and traditions of the Romans, the spiritual values of Christianity, and even Byzantine influences, which they magnificently blended with their Germanic values, breathing life into a whole new and original culture during the late seventh century and the eighth century. FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA – TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE - VENETO – LOMBARDY PIEDMONT Prehistoric Pile dwellings around the Alps The area where excavations yielded the remains of pre- historic pile-dwellings (or stilt houses) spans the whole alpine range and encompasses 111 small individual sites located in Italy, Switzerland, Austria, France,

170170 and Slovenia. Built from around 5000 to 500 B.C., these villages were located on the edges of lakes, rivers or wet- lands. The humidity of these waterlogged sites provided exceptional conservation conditions for organic materi- als such as wood, fabrics, as well as vegetable and bone scraps. The richness of the findings allowed for incredible insights into the world of early agrarian societies, a time when in Europe, men were developing agriculture and animal husbandry. Unfortunately these sites cannot be visited because they are located under water or layers of sediment. Because of this reason, the sites are interpret- ed in museums, archaeological parks and private collec- tions, where artefacts from the excavations are placed on exhibit and reconstructions of the prehistoric villages are put on display. FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA Aquileia the Ruins and the Patriarchal Basilica Aquileia can boast of its origin as a protagonist of the Ro- man Empire. The city, an important port city as well as a bulwark against the barbarian invasions, was founded in 181 B.C. and its original form has remained almost intact. The perfectly preserved mosaics in its Basilica (11th century) are of exceptional value. LIGURIA Portovenere, Cinque Terre and Islands Cultural and human values interweave with those related to the scenery of this exceptional corner of Italy. The area between Cinque Terre and Portovenere still bears witness to a successful balance between man and the environment, consisting of land- scapes and customs that have never changed over time.

LIGURIA The Strade Nuove (new roads) and the Palazzi dei Rolli complex, Genoa The Ligurian city can boast a town planning system unique of its kind: more than one hundred historic buildings built by the nobility of the sixteenth and sev- enteenth centuries on the basis of lots drawn by the public authorities. A long catalogue of exceptional aes- thetic and historic value, which is well worth seeing. EMILIA ROMAGNA Ferrara, a Renaissance city – Po Delta Ferrara: a city that was able to evolve without losing its iden- tity and the architectural delights that the Este family started bestowing on it in the 13th century. Its old town centre and the Po Delta have been recognized by UNESCO: a landscape in which culture and nature mutually enhance each other. EMILIA ROMAGNA Cathedral, Torre Civica bell tower and Piazza Grande, Modena

171 The religious, civic and cultural spheres all converge around the Cathedral of Modena, which is regarded as a basic feature of the evolution of Romanesque architecture. The building, built in the 12th century, has an incredible figurative wealth, consisting of statues and symbols of ex- ceptional symbolic and artistic value. EMILIA ROMAGNA The Paleochristian monuments, Ravenna Eight monuments built in the 6th and 7th centuries have survived until our times, together with their exceptional mosaics. Eight religious buildings that take us back to just before the golden age of the Christian religion, in the presence of Byzantine art in all its glory. TUSCANY Florence, Old Town Centre When you say Florence you think of the Renaissance. The old town centre of the Tuscan capital is recognized by UNESCO as much for its material value as its sym- bolic ones: an exceptional number of masterpieces of art and architecture blend with a cultural climate that has been influencing the whole of Europe since the 15th century. TUSCANY Pienza, Old Town Centre It is thanks to Pope Pius II that we can enjoy the beauties of this little town in Val D’Orcia. The pope, who came from Pienza, decided to transform the place into the “ideal town”. Even today Pienza is still emblematic of the Re- naissance concept of town planning. TUSCANY Pisa, Piazza del Duomo The image of Pisa is indissolubly linked with the fasci- nation of its leaning tower. A blend of cultures and dif- ferent architectural experiences, the complex consisting of the four monuments located in Piazza del Duomo can be visited all the year round. TUSCANY San Gimignano, Old Town Centre In Val d’Elsa, in the heart of Tuscany, stand the towers of this little town of very ancient origins. San Gimignano was found- ed by the Etruscans, while its development is linked with via Francigena, which passed through it in mediaeval times. TUSCANY Siena, Old Town Centre The great value of Siena, like other Italian cities listed by UNESCO, can be summed up in its effective integration between the architecture, the urban layout and their en- vironment. Siena and its traditions are an example of rare excellence in that sense.

172172 TUSCANY Val d’Orcia It’s just like walking personally into a Renaissance painting when you pass through the magnificent set- tings of the Val d’Orcia, an expression of the exception- al sensitivity applied in the 14th and 15th centuries for redesigning the Italian landscape. TUSCANY Medici Villas and Gardens in Tuscany Twelve villas and two gardens spread across the Tuscan land- scape make up this site which bears testimony to the influ- ence the Medici family exerted over modern European cul- ture through its patronage of the arts. The villas were built using an innovative construction system in harmony with nature, and were developed to be dedicated to leisure, the arts and knowledge. The villas embody a new type of prince- ly residence that differed from both the farms owned by rich Florentines of the period and from the military might of baronial castles. The sober elegance and their connection with their magnificent grounds and gardens helped develop the appreciation of beauty and landscape characteristic to Humanism and the Renaissance. THE MARCHES Urbino, Old Town Centre A little jewel, able to integrate the Middle Ages and the Renaissance harmonically, the city of Urbino played a leading role on the Italian cultural scene in the past. The number of masterpieces you can see when you stroll around the city is really amazing.

UMBRIA Assisi, Basilica di San Francesco and other Franciscan sites The city of Assisi is an exceptional cornerstone of artistic, architectural and spiritual values. Seat of the sanctuary dedicated to Saint Francis, its Basilica contains the fres- coes that are considered to have confirmed the birth of Italian art, by artists like Giotto, Cimabue and Martini. LATIUM Old Town Centre of Rome This old town centre, one of the most famous in the world, certainly needs no introduction. You can stroll through ancient Rome with or without a guide, and feel the beating heart of a unique civilization. LATIUM Etruscan necropolises in Cerveteri and Tarquinia The two cities of the dead are probably the most important source of information concerning the ancient Etruscan civi- lization, its daily life and its art. These sites, with their unique and mysterious charm, can be visited all the year round.

173 LATIUM Villa d’Este The Villa d’Este in Tivoli, with its palace, garden, foun- tains, nymphs and grottoes, is one of the most magnificent examples of Renaissance architecture and 16th-century gardens. Defined by terraces, staircases, grand slopes and promenades, the stunning garden evokes the Hanging Gardens of Babylon and constitutes a much-copied model for European gardens in the mannerist and baroque styles. The “100 Fountains” lining the longest promenade also make a strong impact on the scenography, and contributed to the gardens’ turns as the background for several films – such as the banquet scene in William Wyler’s “Ben Hur”. LATIUM Hadrian’s Villa Hadrian’s Villa in Tivoli, designed to be a home for the Roman Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century A.D., is a an exceptional monumental living complex that even today continues to display the lavishness and enormous power of Ancient Rome. This magnificient display of Roman luxury combines the best elements of the architectural heritage of the ancient Mediterranean world in the form of an ‘ideal city’. The villa, that is open all year round, is an absolute must-see excursion while you are visiting Rome. CAMPANIA Naples Old Town Centre More than twenty centuries of history and of architec- tural and artistic styles are condensed in this fascinating city. Its artistic and intellectual energy has had a great influence in the development of all Europe and it can still be felt in the turmoil of its squares and the magnif- icence of its buildings. CAMPANIA Archaeological areas of Pompeii, Herculaneum and Torre Annunziata Preserved almost intact after the eruption of Vesuvius in year 79 A.D., the ancient cities of Pompeii and Hercula- neum, as well as the buildings of (Torre Annun- ziata), allow visitors to project themselves personally into the classical age and learn about the habits and customs of daily life in ancient times. CAMPANIA Costiera Amalfitana Symbol of a Mediterranean landscape, the Amalfi Coast com- bines exceptional cultural value with natural value in one of the most famous areas of Italy, a real symbol of Italianism. CAMPANIA Reggia di Caserta, the Park, the Vanvitelli aqueduct and the San Leucio Complex This magnificent project was the result of the craving for gran-

174174 deur of King Charles of Bourbon, who was determined to make Caserta into a new innovative European capital. Van- vitelli used all his genius in designing a villa regarded as Italy’s Versailles; now it can be visited every day except Tuesday. CAMPANIA Parco Nazionale del Cilento e del Vallo di Diano with the archaeological sites of Paestum and Velia and the The synthesis of the Mediterranean landscape: this is what you could call this area that, among its ilexes, olive trees and pines, guards significant prehistoric settlements, thousand year old temples and baroque buildings. The Certosa can be visited every day except Tuesday. APULIA The Trulli in Alberobello Building techniques that date back to prehistoric times. The trulli are an example of a method of building and a way of living in the area that can last for thousands of years without any change in its usefulness. Their white walls speak of civilisations that no longer exist while inside they accommodate inhabitants and visitors of our times. APULIA Andria, Castel del Monte 1240: Frederic II Hohenstaufen of Swabia has Castel del Monte built: a real stone compendium of mathe- matical, architectural, philosophical and astronomical knowledge. Since then the Castle has never ceased to amaze its guests with the perfection and mysterious symbolism of its shapes. BASILICATA The Sassi in Matera There are not many places in the world that bear witness, like Matera, to man’s ability to adapt to the harshness of his environment. In fact it was the local shepherds in the 10th century who got the idea of digging these simple dwellings out of the rock, creating a complex capable of taking in the whole slope of the mountain. SICILY Agrigento, archaeological area The Agrigento archaeological area gives us the feeling of a city of remote origins and magnificent size, while its group of Doric temples survives over the millennia to show the splendour of the part of the Mediterra- nean area once known as Magna Graecia. SICILY Piazza Armerina, A Roman villa built between the 3rd and 4th centuaries A.D. and perfectly preserved in its original structure and the splendour of its mosaic floors, for which it is

175 really considered to be a unique example. SICILY Syracuse and the rupestrian Necropolis of Pantalica From the rupestrian necropolis down to our times, passing through Greek, Roman and – much more modern – baroque influence, Syracuse has preserved in its territory the unmistakeable and magnificent traces of the cultures that lived there. Three thousand years of history contained in a city with thousands of aspects. SICILY Val di Noto, baroque towns Noto, , Ragusa, Ibla… southern Sicily contains a constellation of places linked with the curvaceous lines of the late baroque. An unmistakable style that distin- guishes this area, harmoniously linking the towns in this lovely corner of Italy. SICILY Aeolian Islands The islands that, according to Greek mythology, gave shel- ter to Aeolus, god of the wind, are an exceptional “manu- al” for geologists and students of volcanic activity. These pearls of the Mediterranean have also preserved valuable traces of the more than millennial presence of man. SICILY Mount Etna Park Located on the Eastern coast, at 3,350 metres a.s.l., Mount Etna is not only Sicily’s highest mountain; it is also one of the world’s most active volcanoes. Its eruptions constantly shape the landscape, which spans large deserted areas covered in igneous rock and im- portant ecosystems with their own endemic plant and wildlife. The diverse and accessible range of volcanic features such as summit craters, cinder cones, lava flows and the Valle de Bove depression have made the site a prime destination for research and training of vulcanologists. The whole area can be considered a natural laboratory for the study of ecological and bi- ological processes. Inside the Park, in the areas below the main volcanic cone, there are a number of hiking trails of unparalleled beauty. SARDINIA Barumini, the Nuraghic Village The most complete nuraghe in Sardinia shows traces of the basalt of the nuraghic culture, one of the most mysterious in the whole Mediterranean area. More than three and half thousand years of history have passed through these perimeters, which we can still clearly make out. For more information visit the following website: http://www.italia.it/en/travel-ideas/unesco-world-heritage-sites.html 176176

NATIONAL PARKS

Abruzzo Latium and Molise live side by side with pristine nature in Italy’s www.parcoabruzzo.it youngest natural park, set between the parks Located in the heart of central Italy, this is of Pollino and Cilento. an international model for the protection of In the shade of the typical silver fir trees you its natural and environmental heritage, for can see views that extend to the neighbouring which it received the European Diploma of protected areas. Protected Areas from the Council of Europe. If you are lucky might see some of its most fa- Appennino Tosco-Emiliano mous inhabitants: the bear, the wolf, the eagle www.parcoappennino.it or the deer. The mountain landscapes that separate Tusca- ny from Emilia Romagna are not only a won- Alta Murgia derful sight. The area offers visitors a wide www.parcoaltamurgia.gov.it variety of typical products and high quality With its canyons and its karstic sinkholes, the services for people who want to spend quiet Parco dell’Alta Murgia has most impressive periods of relaxation surrounded by nature. scenery only a few kilometres away from the Adriatic Sea. Excursions in its hinterland are Arcipelago di La Maddalena not particularly challenging and they are well www.lamaddalenapark.it supported by the organization of the agency. This geomarine park, created to protect one of the most incredible environments of Sardinia, Appenino Lucano – Val d’Agri – Lagone- is a kind of natural garden of eden. The many grese endemic species and the fact that there are not www.parcoappenninolucano.it many people preserve the sensation of having The peasant imprint of man continues to discovered a place out of this world.

Appenino Tosco-Emiliano – Verrucole Fortress

178 : Isola del Giglio, Campese and its tower (De Agostini Picture Library)

Arcipelago Toscano Cilento e Vallo di Diano www.islepark.it www.cilentoediano.it Once dominated by mining work, the islands The area of the Parco del Cilento e Vallo di of the Tuscan archipelago now form the big- Diano has been inhabited for more than 500 gest geomarine park in the Mediterranean. thousand years and its history blends with The extraordinary environmental wealth of Greek and Roman mythology. As well as a the islands can be experienced and enjoyed by wonderful scenic and environmental heritage, taking advantage of a wide range of outdoor the area contains sites considered by UNES- activities. CO to be Heritage of Humanity: Paestum and the Certosa di Padula. Asinara www.parcoasinara.org Cinque Terre Isola di Ercole, Isola Sinuosa, Isola del Diavo- www.parconazionale5terre.it lo… of its thousand names Asanara has kept The most typical scenery of this park, formed the one that celebrates its most famous in- by thousands of kilometres of terraces over- habitants: the albino donkeys, symbol of this hanging the sea, bears witness to man’s ancient island and a unique species. ability to overcome the harshness of the land. It was just this equilibrium between man and Aspromonte nature that made this park a UNESCO site. www.parcoaspromonte.gov.it The area is crisscrossed by a thick web of Circeo torrents, streams and waterfalls as well as by www.parcocirceo.it the many people that have lived there over It has the task of holding the last remains of the centuries. The Park has some of the most the pontine marshes, most of which area was beautiful Calabrian towns, which overlook reclaimed during the early 20th century. For the Mediterranean Sea and protect the hin- this reason it has a large number of quite rare terland and coasts of this lovely region. animal and vegetable species and has been included in the “UNESCO Man and Bio- sphere” areas. 179 Dolomiti Bellunesi big stretches of this land, rich in history and www.dolomitipark.it tradition. With its 18 peaks higher than 3000 metres, the Park has one of the most impressive pieces Gargano of natural scenery in the world, worthy of be- www.parcogargano.it ing included among the UNESCO Heritage Ilexes, pine trees, olive trees, and orange and of Humanity Sites. One of the good things almond trees line the Gargano promontory about visiting the park is the extensive net- until it meets the clear sea. Thanks to its natu- work of access points, information centres ral setting and its old picturesque villages, the and an interesting calendar of events. Gargano park can be considered emblematic of the Mediterranean landscape. Foreste Casentinesi, Monte Falterona, Campigna Gran Paradiso www.parcoforestecasentinesi.it www.pngp.it Between Tuscany and Emilia Romagna, This is Italy’s first national park, created in where the still young river Arno flows, lie 1922 with the main purpose of protecting the the Casentini Forests, among the oldest in ibex from extinction and that animal is now Europe. The Camaldoli Hermitage, found- the symbol of this protected area. Because of ed in 1012, and the La Verna Sanctuary the attention it pays to sustainable develop- join with the forests as millennial witnesses ment, the Gran Paradiso park was awarded the of time. European Diploma of Protected Areas. Gennargentu Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga www.parcogennargentu.it www.gransassolagapark.it Protector of the natural value of the Sardinian The Gran Sasso park has the highest peak hinterland, the Gennargentu Park has flora (the Corno Grande) and the only glacier (the that is very typical of the Mediterranean ma- Calderone) in the Apennines as well as a con- quis. Ilexes, chestnut trees and junipers cover siderable amount of traditions and important

Ibex – Gran Paradiso National Park 180 Valgrande National Park (ENIT Photo Library) historic-architectural traces, which are well cludes the ancient Italo-Albanian arbëreschë worth seeing for yourself. community with its centuries-old store of Greek-Byzantine traditions. Majella www.parcomajella.it Sila This is the reign of the wolf and the bear, www.parcosila.it which live here permanently. But it is also a Between the parks of Pollino and Asprom- very mountainous area where karstic rocks onte, the Sila Park has wonderful natural create spectacular views: The Cavallone scenery, sloping down towards the Tyrrhenian and Piccioni caves, accessible to the public, Sea, leaving the sight of the Aeolian Islands are an opportunity for an unforgettable and Mount Etna on the horizon, and towards excursion. the Ionian. The most important inhabitant Monti Sibillini of this area is the Sila wolf, an autochthonous species of which about one hundred individ- www.sibillini.net uals survive. Situated partly in the Marches and partly in Umbria, the Sibillini Park includes mytho- Stelvio - Stilfserjoch logical and rural traditions, natural endemic www.stelviopark.it species and spiritual places in its area. All in The great altitude variations in the Stelvio Park a park that has made sustainable develop- enable you to admire high and low Alpine ment its slogan. scenery in the heart of the central Alps. Each of the three areas that make up this protected Pollino area is crossed by a thick network of paths, of www.parcopollino.it different difficulty and type, just waiting for Italy’s biggest national park, set between you to travel on them. the Tyrrhenian and Ionian Seas, has unique natural and cultural riches, deposited during thousands of years of history. Its area in- 181 Val Grande www.parcovalgrande.it The biggest wild area in Italy, which has never even seen asphalt: in Val Grande you can only travel along the paths and cart-tracks used for centuries by shepherds and woodsmen. This wilderness needs to be visited prudently, accompanied by expert guides. Vesuvio www.parconazionalevesuvio.it The Vesuvius Park protects a unique area, dominated by the volcano that gives it its name and its environmental characteristics. A system of paths was created in 2003 so that you can see the various kinds of scenery in an area that is sometimes luxuriant and sometimes lunar.

Vesuvius from the sea (Castel dell’Ovo in the foreground) (De Agostini Picture Library) 182 USEFUL INFORMATION

BY AIR at your final destination quite tination is Italy. The current comfortably. services for travelling either Getting to Italy by day or by night between The main intercontinental Getting around in Italy Italy and the other European It is easy to travel by air in It- countries are distinguished and international arrival for high quality, shorter points in Italia are Leonardo aly, thanks to the wide range of flights and carriers existing travel times and excellent da Vinci airport in Rome Fiu- in the country. Connections comfort while travelling. It micino and Malpensa Airport between cities are numer- is advisable (and sometimes in Milan, but almost all of ous and there are frequent obligatory) to book seats. the many Italian airports have services from Rome and You have to punch your international connections. Milan to all the other Italian ticket before boarding the There are plenty of flights, airports. The broad network carriage, otherwise you will both by low-cost and tradi- of connections also connects be fined. Some international tional airlines, and they cover the peninsula with Sicily and railway companies also offer a large number of destina- Sardinia and with the minor car transport service. Every tions. Italy is connected by islands. Italy has nearly forty day many international trains air with most European medium and small airports, arrive in Italy, crossing the countries and with every distributed through all the frontier and connecting the continent. You can obtain regions (except Molise and Peninsula with the main more information about Basilicata). cities in Austria, Germany, routes, timetables, prices and France and Eastern Europe. availability on the sites of the main and low-cost airlines. BY TRAIN For more information: Nearly all the airports are www.trenitalia.it served by an extensive Getting to Italy www.italotreno.it network of taxis, buses and The charm of travelling by For information about trains trains, so that you can arrive train never fades if the des- from : 183 www.elipsos.com stations, and faster, long-dis- Italian ports. For information about trains tance ones, Intercity (IC) and Getting to Italy by sea is a from France: Eurostar (ES), which only not-to-be-missed experience: www.artesia.eu and stop in the big cities. Then on the waves of the Mediter- www.sncf.com there are the High-Speed Eu- ranean, on board comfortable For information about trains rostar Italia Trains, known as ships, by the oldest and most from Germany: the Freccia Rossa (red arrow), fascinating mode of travel. www.reiseauskunft.bahn.de which can travel as fast as Before leaving, however, you www.dbitalia.it 300 km/h. When you have need to find out how long For information about trains bought your ticket, before the crossing takes and about from Switzerland: getting on the train you have the international routes that www.sbb.ch - www.cisalpino.com to punch the ticket in one stop at Italian ports. of the yellow machines, of Many national and interna- Getting around in Italy which there are many near tional shipping companies Italy has a vast railway net- the tracks. connect the main European work, which connects almost For timetables and infor- ports with Italy. The tick- the whole country, and plen- mation you are advised to et prices are very high in ty of regional, Intercity and consult the Ferrovie dello Stato summer and vary according high-speed trains. Trenitalia (State railways). For timeta- to the weight of the means of operates 95% of the routes bles and information please transport you are taking with and guarantees as many as visit the folllowing websites: you. The Grandi Navi Veloci 7,000 trains a day, almost www.trenitalia.it fleet connects Barcelona with half of which travel during www.italotreno.it Genoa. Connections between peak hours. There are various Greece in Italia are assured on types of train: local ones, BY SHIP the most frequented routes: Direct (DIR), Regional (R) from Igoumenitsa, Corfu and and Interregional (IR), which Getting to Italy Patrasso, Blue Star Ferries stop at all the intermediate By ship, heading for the sails directly to Venice and 184 Brindisi, while Superfast Fer- ri, Lampedusa and Strom- bag or the like), just buying a ries sails to Ancona and Bari. boli, to mention just a few, is deck-passage ticket. You can Fragline Ferries sails from certainly a unique experience. get to the smaller islands by Corfu to Brindisi; Grimal- Many ferry companies sail ferry and hydrofoil. di Ferries, one of the best on different and varied routes You can take your vehicles known Italian companies, all the year round. Big ships with you on almost all the connects Tunis and Barcelona ensure connections with the ships and ferries, paying the with Civitavecchia, Saler- main Italian islands, Sardinia basic fare plus an extra. no, Livorno and Palermo. and Sicily. It should be remembered that Tirrenia Navigazione ferries The main departure points many companies give dis- makes many connections all for getting to the island of counts and very special offers the year round between Tunis Sardinia are Genoa, Livorno, if you book in advance. and Italy’s main islands, Sicily Civitavecchia and Naples. To The sites of the main ship- and Sardinia. Marmara Lines get to Sicily, in the ports of ping companies that sail to connects the Turkish town Palermo and Messina, howev- Italian ports are listed below. of Cesme with Ancona and er, it is better to leave from Brindisi. Jadrolinija connects Naples, or else from Villa San BY BUS Dubrovnik, on the Croatian Giovanni, in Calabria, a mu- coast, with Bari, while Virtu nicipality that stretches along Getting to Italy Ferries is the best company the famous Strait of Messina. You can travel through the for getting to Malta from Many ships sail by night and Alps and get to Italy on board Catania. travellers can either choose comfortable buses. Eurolines to spend the night in a cabin is a consortium of the main Getting around in Italy or book an armchair on the European companies; it has The Italian islands are an covered decks. You can also information office in the ideal place to spend a holiday. sleep on the upper decks main cities and more than Discovering Sicily, Sardinia, of the ship, in the open air, thirty departure points all the Tuscan Archipelago, Lipa- using your own gear (sleeping over Italy. The buses have all

185 the comforts necessary for the faster travel between the big journey and, obviously, call cities. Usually, when it is a BY CAR OR at the big cities, like Milan, case of getting to minor places MOTORCYCLE Rome and Florence. or little country villages, it is Getting to Italy There are also other options cheaper and more comfortable The extensive network of for getting to Italy by bus. It to travel by bus than by train. European motorways and the is a good idea to visit internet You can consult the departure existence of direct crossings site www.busweb.com, where and arrival timetables in local facilitate access to Italy by car there is a detailed list of the information offices or with or motorcycle. bus services in about 30 the Aziende di Promozione You can get to the peninsula European countries. Turistica (tourist agencies) from Austria, France, Switzer- and the Uffici d’Informazione land and Slovenia. Getting around in Italy Turistica Locali (local tourist The main entry points, open The cities, towns and villages information offices). In the all the year round, are the of Italy are connected by bigger cities you can buy Mont Blanc tunnel, which, efficient interurban transport tickets at the offices of the from Chamonix, connects services, which allow you companies or at travel agen- France to the A5 motorway to travel and discover the cies. In small places, however, for Turin and Milan, the country, its attractions and its it is easier to contact coffee Gran San Bernardo tunnel, beauty spots. What is more, shops, or even the driver. It which connects Switzerland you can travel all over the is not necessary to book seats to the A5 motorway also, the country using the various but it is advisable for long or through Austria, passenger transport lines. night journeys. which joins up with the A22 The many companies existing For any information regard- motorway to Bologna. The in Italy provide both local ing destinations, timetables Alpine tunnels are often connections between small and prices you can consult closed during the winter and country villages and small either the portals or the sometimes even in autumn and medium cities as well as official sites of the various and spring due to snow. companies.

186 For information: Or, instead, there are faster Società Autostrade, or phone www.autostrade.it methods, like the “Viacard”or the Viabilità Call Centre, “Telepass” cards. The Viacard open all day, on 840-042121. Getting around in Italy is a magnetic card, which can In addition to the motor- An excellent network of mo- be used at the automatic or ways, an extensive national torways, indicated by green manual gates, or even handed road system, indicated by signs, shortens the distance to the collector. blue signs, connects all the between the twenty Italian The Telepass is the most regions or the towns of regions: 3408 kilometres, practical and fastest au- different regions. With no which ensure effective mobil- tomatic payment system, toll charges, one or two lanes, ity and territorial communi- based on remote electronic the secondary roads offer cation, in complete safety. recognition and debited to panoramas and lovely views Two main motorways con- the user: it makes it possible that cannot be seen from the nect Northern and Southern to carry out the financial motorway: they are not as Italy: the Autostrada del Sole transactions without stopping fast but the journey is defi- (the A1, which passes by Mi- at the tollgate, thus speeding nitely more interesting. lan, Bologna, Florence, Rome up traffic and reducing fuel For information: and Naples) and the Adriatica consumption. www.autostrade.it (the A14, which connects For any information related www.aci.it Bologna, Ancona, Pescara, to weather conditions, toll Bari and Taranto). charges, or traffic you can Italy by motorcycle On the motorways you have stop at the “Punti Blu” (blue Italy is also the home of to pay a toll. point offices) situated at all motorcycling tours. In You can pay in cash or with a the motorway junctions, summer the roads are full credit card. contact the official site of the of enthusiasts, attracted by

187 breath-taking scenery along 25), but some companies hire people who have chosen the the coastal stretches, on the even to younger people. Then bicycle as their main mode of slopes of hills or tree-lined you need a credit card and a travel. In fact you can take a mountain roads. There are driving licence. Citizens from bicycle on all trains marked many itineraries suggested non-EU countries must also with a logo showing the by public or private bodies, hold an international driving outline of a bicycle. which help you to discover licence (IDP). The cheapest way of travel- the peninsula, from North ling with your bicycle is to to South, from the sea to the Parking buy, even from the automatic mountains. When travelling Parking areas in the big cities machines, a separate ticket by motorcycle you do not are marked off by lines of for the bicycle, which is valid need to book your passage on various colours: usually white for 24 hours from the time of ships or ferries and, further- lines indicate free parking, issue. If, however, you decide more you are allowed into yellow lines mean reserved to make a trip around any of some of the limited traffic parking (residents, disabled, the big or small Italian islands areas in the big cities. You taxis …), while blue lines travelling is even easier: all must wear a helmet. mean paid parking, the cost the ferries and ships offer free of which varies according to transport for bicycles. Assistance the town, the area, and the At any time of the day, time band. ENTRY assistance for motorists in DOCUMENTS emergencies is guaranteed by Taxis ACI (the Italian automobile In Italy authorized taxis are All that citizens of European club), a federation of 106 white and must bear the Union countries that have provincial automobile clubs, word “Taxi” written on the signed the Schengen agree- which represents and protects roof. They must also have ment need is an identity card the interests of Italian motor- a meter that shows the cost or a valid passport. Citizens ing. You can phone 803.116 of the trip in real time, to from all other countries must or visit the ACI official site. which, depending on the show their passport at the The radio offers assistance case, extra costs are added frontier and, where necessary, regarding traffic conditions: for luggage, holidays, night have an entry visa, which in fact the three RAI channels hours, out-of-town runs must show the duration of broadcast the “Onda verde” (like in the case of trips to their stay and their place of news bulletin (about every airports). To find a taxi you destination. You can apply for 30 minutes), while in the have to go to the special a visa at the Italian consulates stretches served you can tune areas, marked by yellow in your country of residence, into 103.3 MHz on Isoradio, lines or by an orange notice, specifying the reason for the which broadcasts good music or phone the radio-taxi travel (visas are usually issued as well as road news. numbers, which vary from 90 days after the application). town to town. There is also a When you reach your Petrol stations single toll number (892192), destination, and if you are Italy has an extensive network operational all over the not staying at a hotel or of petrol distribution stations country, which forwards calls accommodation facility, you (lead-free, diesel) on both requesting taxis to more than must register at the police the motorway network and sixty radio-taxi companies, headquarters within 8 days secondary roads. The call costs 62 cents of a of your arrival. For tourists euro per minute from a land staying at hotels, or other Hire line and 96 cents per minute types of tourist accommo- It is very simple to hire a car from a mobile. dation, registration is done but it is better to enquire in automatically by the facility’s advance about the require- BY BICYCLE reception. ments of the various agencies. There are no limitations Usually the driver must be Italy is a place worth getting concerning how much you over 23 years old (sometimes to know, for keen cyclists and can buy and take with you

188 when travelling within the left lane or lanes are only for km/h (50 mph); motorways European Union, always overtaking. 100 km/h (62 mph). provided purchases are for When you come to a Compulsory equipment in personal use. crossroads you must give the vehicle: precedence to vehicles com- warning triangle; spare tyre; DOCUMENTS ing from your right unless first-aid kit (recommended); REQUIRED FOR otherwise indicated. extinguisher (recommended). DRIVING IN ITALY Motorcycles with a cylinder capacity of less than 150 are You must have safety jackets Driving licences issued by not allowed to travel on mo- and reflecting braces in the any State belonging to the torways in any circumstances. vehicle and they must be European Union are valid A helmet is absolutely com- worn by drivers of vehicles in all the EU territory, and pulsory for persons driving that are stopped on the road, therefore also in Italy. mopeds and motorcycles of outside built-up areas, by any cylinder capacity. night or when visibility is If you have a licence issued poor. You must also wear by a non-EU State you must What are the speed limits? them when you go to place have an international driving the warning triangle on the licence or a sworn (official) Cars and Motorcycles (over road after a breakdown, or if translation of your licence. 150 cylinder capacity): urban you get out of a car stopped To be able to drive in Italy areas 50 km/h (31 mph) ; on the emergency lane. you must be over 18 years secondary outside-town roads of age. 90 km/h (56 mph); main Insurance: you must have You drive on the right and outside-town roads 110 km/h third party insurance. overtake on the left. Accord- (68 mph); motorways 130 People coming from abroad ing to the new highway code, km/h (81 mph). are advised to have the green in force since 01/07/03, all If there is rain or snow the card: an insurance that can motor vehicles must have limit goes down to 110 km/h even be taken out at the their dipped headlights, on motorways and 90 km/h frontier and is valid for 15, side lights and number on main outside-town roads. 30 or 45 days. plate lights lit on any road outside the town and on the Moreover, to make sure speed Alcohol and driving: in motorway. In town we can limits are complied with, Italy the limit of alcohol in decide whether to keep them many “autovelox” electronic the blood for driving is 0.5 lit or not. controls have been installed grammes per litre, more or However the obligation to along all the Italian road and less the same as the rest of have the lights on is valid in motorway network. Europe. town also for all two-wheel vehicles (mopeds and motor- Cars with a trailer or caravan: Useful and emergency cycles). In urban areas the speed limit numbers: The horn should not be used is 50 km/h (31 mph); on in built-up areas, except for secondary outside-town roads State Police: 113 emergencies. 70 km/h (44 mph); on main Fire Brigade: 115 Trams and trains have prece- outside-town roads 70 km/h Emergency and medical dence. (44 mph); on motorways 80 emergency service: 118. km/h (50 mph). The use of seatbelts in the Useful links: front and in the back (if the Camper caravans weighing vehicle has them) is compul- more than 3.5 tons but less Highway code: sory and both driver and the than 12 tons: urban areas 50 www.aci.it passengers can be fined. km/h (31 mph); secondary On roads with two or more outside-town roads 80 km/h lanes you should use the free (50 mph); lane furthest to the right; the main outside-town roads 80

189 SAFETY AND language exists for callers to emergency especially during EMERGENCY this number. the summer months. Italy is a safe country. If you VIGILI DEL FUOCO (Fire GUARDIA COSTIERA do encounter problematical Brigade): 115 – SOCCORSO MARITTI- or dangerous situations you In case of fire, sighting of MO (coast guard – maritime should contact the police smoke or gas leaks you can rescue): 1530 forces, which are responsible also call the Fire Brigade di- If your pleasure boat breaks for the safety of citizens and rectly; it is present all over the down or there is any emer- for foreigners staying in Italy. country and acts promptly gency in Italian territorial even in the event of earth- waters, you can contact the Emergency numbers quakes or other calamities. national coast guard directly A modern and efficient on this number. network of operations centres MEDICAL EMERGEN- of the various police forces CIES – AMBULANCES: CLIMATE and of emergency centres 118 connects, in a single inte- When you call this num- In Italy there are marked grated system, all the police ber from anywhere in Italy difference in climate between forces, bodies and agencies (including the islands) the North and South. responsible for responding to network for medical assis- In the North, which is the emergency calls throughout tance and for transport by part between the Alps and the country. Contacting this ambulance to the nearest the Appenino Tosco-Emilia- network is simple and fast. hospital or medical facility is no, the climate is severe: the All you have to do is call the alerted. winters are very cold and the national emergency numbers, A helicopter-ambulance summers very hot, with high which are well known and service is also available for the levels of humidity. easy to remember. most impassable and hard-to- In the Centre, approximate- get-at places. ly between Liguria and the POLIZIA DI STATO (State Rome area, the climate is police): 113 SOCCORSO STRADALE temperate and there is less This is the single national (road assistance): 803.116 difference in temperature number for every kind of This is the number of the ACI between summer and winter emergency, from reports of road assistance service, avail- than in the North: the cold theft, robberies or assaults, to able to Members and clients period is shorter and less accidents and health emer- for requesting ACI services in severe and the summer is gencies. Italy (road assistance, replace- longer, but there is hardly This number connects with ment car, car to your home, ever the sultry weather that the State Police network of doctor quickly etc.). affects northern cities, thanks operations centres, opera- It is a toll-free number, opera- to the mitigating effect of the tional 24 hours a day 7 days tional only in Italy, 365 days a sea, which touches nearly the a week. year, round the clock. whole area. In the South and on the Is- CARABINIERI (police): 112 FOREST FIRES: 1515 lands, the winter is never too When you dial 112 the This is the number of the for- harsh and the temperatures in police operations centres are estry corps (Corpo Forestale autumn and spring are nearly activated. Since 1991 the dello Stato) for environmental the same as the summer ones European Union introduced emergencies and it is opera- in other parts of Italy. 112 as a single emergency tional 24 hours a day all year Average temperatures number for all the Member round. In Italy there can be a great States, precisely to facilitate The forestry corps deals with temperature difference tourists and foreigners when the protection of the environ- between North, Centre and travelling around the conti- mental and scenic heritage South. nent. For this very reason an and, in particular, with forest answering service in a foreign fires, which is a constant

190 EMBASSIES Website: www.rom.diplo.de or lost. Countries that have permanent and frequent There are embassies of over Ireland relations with Italy have con- 200 countries in Rome, the Piazza Campitelli 3, sulates in the principal Italian capital city, and it is possible 00186 Rome - Phone: cities. Furthermore, there are to find out about the cultural +39.06/6979121 - Website: honorary consulates in many events organized by the www.dfa.ie/irish-embassy/italy Italian cities, which can help various States in Italy and the Japan tourists and back them up in business opportunities, as well Via Quintino Sella 60, 00187 any eventuality. as the procedures for working Rome You can find a full list by visit- in Italy or for obtaining a Phone:+39.06/487991 ing the website of the Ministry teaching qualification. Website: www.it.emb-japan.go.jp of Foreign Affairs www.esteri.it We give hereunder the references of the embassies Netherlands HEALTH CARE of the countries from which Via Michele Mercati 8, many of the tourists visiting 00197 Rome - Phone: Citizens of the EU, the EEA Italy come. You can find a full +39.06/3221141 Website: and Switzerland holding an list by visiting the site of the www.olanda.it EHIC (European Health Ministero degli Affari Esteri Insurance Card) – (TEAM in (ministry of foreign affairs) Russia Italian) www.esteri.it. Via Gaeta 5, 00185 Rome Phone: +39.06/4941680; If, during a temporary stay List of Embassies: +39.06/4941681; in Italy, citizens of States of +39.06/4941649 the European Union and the Australia Website: www.ambrussia.com European Economic Area (Ice- Via Antonio Bosio 5, land, Liechtenstein, Norway) 00161 Rome - Phone: Switzerland and Switzerland (as from +39.06/852721 or the Via Barnaba Oriani 1st June 2002) need to have toll-free emergency number 61, 00197 Rome - Phone: medically necessary health 800877790 Website: +39.06/809571 - Website: care, they are entitled, on pro- www.dfat.gov.au/missions/ www.eda.admin.ch/roma ducing the European Health countries/it.html Insurance Card EHIC (or a UK certificate replacing it), to be Canada Via XX Settembre 80a treated directly at public and Via G.B. de Rossi 27, 00187 Rome - Phone: private facilities affiliated with 00161 Rome - Phone: +39.06/42200001 - Website: the national health service +39.06/445981 Website: www.ukinitaly.fco.gov.uk/it (Servizio Sanitario Nazionale italy.gc.ca – SSN), which consists of a USA network of local health boards China Via Vittorio Veneto 119- (Aziende Sanitarie locali – Via Bruxelles 56, 121, 00187 Rome - Phone: ASL) and hospitals located 00198 Rome - Phone: +39.06/46741 - Website: throughout the country. +39.06/8848186 Website: italy.usembassy.gov/ www.fmprc.gov.cn/ce/ceit/ita Form E106. E109, E120, France CONSULATES E121 (or portable document Piazza Farnese 67, S1 or SED S07) 00186 Rome - Phone: Consulates can be a great help Holders of the abovemen- +39.06/686011 Website: for tourists that, unfortunately, tioned certificates must go www.ambafrance-it.org are having problems in Italy. to the ASL for the area and They can help out in specif- submit form E106 or E109 or Germany ic individual and collective E120 or E121. Via San Martino emergency situations and The ASL will register them della Battaglia 4, issue travel documents for with the national health 00185 Rome Phone: returning home if identity service SSN) and they will +39.06/492131 documents have been stolen be entitled to full health care 191 (including the medico/pediatra missions). More information can be di base –paediatrician/general This service is usually free of found on the official site of the practitioner) under the same charge on presentation of the Italian Government: conditions as for an Italian European Health Insurance www.salute.gov.it patient. Card (EHIC-TEAM) or Furthermore, only to holders its provisional replacement of form E106 and E120 (or certificate, subject to payment S1 or S072 for such cases), of any charge due. the ASL gives a document containing some information needed for making out the Foreign nationals hold- prescription, to present to ing residence permits, their own general practitioner not belonging to the whenever necessary. affiliated countries Form E112 (or portable Foreign nationals regularly document S2) staying in Italy may make use Holders of form E112 (or of the facilities of the national S2), issued to receive care that health service (SSN) with pro- has to be given by a public cedures that differ according (or affiliated) facility that is to the reason for their stay. not a Hospital must present it to the ASL for the area (the Foreign nationals temporarily one where the health facility staying for not more than 90 is), which gives a document days (tourists, for instance), containing some information may make use of urgent and needed for making out the elective medical care subject prescription, to present to to payment of the related their own general practitioner. regional rates. In the case of admission to a Registration with the SSN is Hospital form E112 (or S2) not foreseen except for stu- must be produced at that dents and au-pair girls. facility. Foreign nationals holding Form E123 (or portable docu- regular residence permits may ment DA1) register with the SSN by con- Holders of form E123 (or tacting the local health boards DA1) must present it to the (ASL) in the municipality of ASL for the area, which gives their registered residence or, if them a document containing they are not yet residents, of some information needed for their abode as shown on their making out the prescription, residence permit. to present to their general Health care is extended to practitioner if necessary. dependent relatives legally staying in Italy. Ambulance service Registration may be: obligato- ry or voluntary A medical emergency service operates in all the Regions, for Foreign nationals that plan serious cases and emergencies, to come to Italy for medical contactable by phoning 118 treatment can activate three (transport by ambulance to different entry procedures: the hospital and by helicop- Entry for treatment ter ambulance for primary

192 ENIT By thePress O ceofItalian National Tourist Board -ENIT www.rotoform.it [email protected] Published andPrinted by: Updated inApril 2015 Rotoform s.r.l. Via Marghera 2/600185Roma-Tel. (+39)06.49711 pinterest.com/ItaliaIT plus.google.com/+italyit facebook.com/Italia.it pinterest.com/ItaliaIT plus.google.com/+italyit facebook.com/Italia.it facebook.com/Italia.it plus.google.com/+italyit pinterest.com/ItaliaIT Italian NationalTourist Board -ENIT Follow uson www.italia.it twitter.com/italy_it instagram.com/italiait instagram.com/italiait youtube.com/user/JoinItaly twitter.com/italy_it instagram.com/italiait youtube.com/user/JoinItaly twitter.com/italy_it youtube.com/user/JoinItaly

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