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Home , Churro, Macaron, Pastel (food), Pignoli (cookie)

CUPCAKES FROM VANILLA BAKE SHOP

OPPOSITE: FROM PAULETTE MACARONS 110 Craving bear claws or ? Macarons or ? A sturdy rye or an ethereal ? Here are L.A.’s top 20 by Margot Dougherty

PHOTOGRAPHS BY LUCAS ZAREBINSKI Precious few dilemmas can’t be few dilemmasPrecious can’t Boule A Ripping into a few slices slathered with butter makesusjustplainhappy makes usRipping just intoafewslicesslatheredwith plain happybread brushedwithgoldsignalscelebra tion brushed withΤhe veryexistenceofafreshloafsublimedark verygold existencesignals ings makeamultiprongedadvanceonoursenses: celebra ofmake a afresh multiprongedtionstudded carameltop loaf ofcaramel sublimeadvanceor evenahumblebrowniefinessedwithpecan top darkon our senses:tart whoseglisteningfruitiscradledincustard whose glisteningstraight fromawood fruitfrom isa ameliorated by thewondersofacroissant pulled woodcradled in by the wondersPrecious of a few dilemmas pulled can’t be or even a humble brownie finessed with a pecan 3211 oramandinecafe.com. Wilshire Blvd.,West L.A.,310-979- THE OFFERINGS Boule BEHIND THE , whose of-the-line, fromthe canelés,whose baked goodsthatremain aretop- is takenupbychocolates,butthe larger selection.Muchofthespace try chefMichelleMyers’sinitial, ness andprecisioninfoundingpas- and wemissthedanceofplayful- this highpriestessofpatisseries, this sortofFrenchbaking. the earthyelegancethatdefi paper-lined baskets,underscore late—or both.Theirberths,butcher around almondpasteorchoco- rolled withcinnamonorwrapped with thatbutter,theirpliantinsides thin outerlayerscrispandblistered the bestincity,theirpaper- tention. Thesecroissantsareeasily sugar, thatdemandsimmediateat- quality butterbakedwithfl the alchemicperfume of high- counter, warmenoughtoemanate viennoisserie ontheopposite cases neartheentry,butit’s share residenceintherefrigerated with blueberryandstrawberry and loavesofcheesecakemarbled gâteaux withchocolateshavings, tarts withCarmenMirandauppers, of thestoneoventoanother.Fruit sourdough roundsfromonepart baker withawoodpaddleswishes mandine mandine

register, an aproned register, anaproned have dwindled at havedwindledat our and »

nes nes 12225 12225 Breadbar Breadbar erly Hills,310-273-4488. .com. Alsoat413N.BedfordDr.,Bev- Blvd., L.A.,310-289-9977orboulela crackle, tothegorgeous centerswithabarelyaudible thick, darkcrustsgivewaytosilken EACH OFTHE Breadbar buckwheat West” tribe.The sweetly aromatic curcuma-hazelnut isofthe“Golden “Tour deFrance”clan,whilethe breads aredescendantsofthe dough. Theraisin-walnutandolive longs tooneofsevenfamilies at thisgrowingchainofcafésbe- showcases agrainwerarely see ent combo). and blackolive (asurprisinglycoher- peppercorn, Earl Grey,orchocolate fl . avored with grapefruit and pink avored withgrapefruitandpink - Bakeries and their offer Bakeriesandtheiroffer burning oven oven fi » (a thin baguette) celle(athinbaguette)

408 N.LaCienega hand-shaped loaves hand-shapedloaves LOS ANGELES macarons . ➺ ,

a French a French French a 112

Cake house house Cake and beansarehidd shop. Pastesmadefromchestnuts tables thatspanthewidthof in cellophaneanddisplayedon number ofbreads,neatlywrapped , CakeHousehasastultifying cream andberries),partKorean crepe layercakeoozingwhipped 205-0124 orbreadbar.net.Alsoat stopper. its shinydome—that’stheshow- with thickstrokesofgoldleafon mie—a blackPullman-styleloaf orous squidink-dyedpainde these days,butit’sthemoreglam- Blvd., Century City, 310-277-3770. Blvd., CenturyCity,310-277-3770. Century City,10250SantaMonica ca, 310-395-9490, andWestfi 602 SantaMonicaBlvd.,Moni- PART PATISSERIE Cake house FEBRUARY 2009 .

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8718 W.3rdSt.,L.A.,310- -

- en in soft rolls, en insoftrolls, (check out the (checkoutthe BOULE eld eld

Diamond Emil’s swiss pastry pastry 0404. Alsoat11301OlympicBlvd., pic Blvd.,Koreatown,323-766- » before dissolvingonthetongue. of peapaste, fl irts withsweetness a sprinklingofpeasanddab individual-size cloudofbreadwith The steamedgreenteabun,an did wenotthinkofthatbefore?). coffee scentsacake(how sweet cheeselinesaDanish,and West L.A.,310-914-0404. tard, and a collage of fruit, but our tard, andacollageof fruit,butour combine puffpastry, vanillacus- dels. Emil’sFrench-stylefruittarts before noon),apple-crammedstru- -fi sugar-dusted napoleons,almond whippedcreamlayers, confections: tage pointfortheirpan-European shop thatprovidesapeppiervan- ago theymovedtoaspanking-new andAustria.”Afewmonths because “Switzerlandisbetween Pastry. Perfect,saysChampigneulle, who isAustrian,boughtEmil’sSwiss pastry chefChristianKaufmann, who isFrench,andherhusband, THIS FAIRFAX Diamond IN 2000, Emil’s swiss N. F quintessence ofitssoul. antithesis ofL.A.’simageandthe occur toyouthatDiamondisthe machine’s hummingjaws,itmay she guidesthebreadthrough medium thinormedium—andas lent) double-cornryesliced— want yourpumpernickelor(excel- for 42years.She’llaskhowyou Ruth hasbeenbehindthecounter in town.Aslightwomannamed French toast,maywellbethebest be employedfortranscendent fl size , ,jam-rich palm- a croissant-likecrispness),coffee (twisted ratherthanrolled,with , butterycinnamonrugelach over possibilities:chocolate-laden vant andthe discriminating wrestle holiday linesarelongastheobser- mess withperfection? Friday and and neitherhavetherecipes—why changed muchinits65years, uffy andregal challah,whichcan

Koreatown Galleria,3250W.Olym- airfax Ave., L.A.,323-655-0534. . Diamond’s hammentaschen. Diamond’s lled bear claws (often gone lled bearclaws(oftengone Isabelle Champigneulle, IsabelleChampigneulle, cakes with parisienne cakeswith cornerstone hasn’t cornerstonehasn’t » 335 335

FOOD STYLIST: LIESL MAGGIORE. PHOTO (THIS PAGE): COURTESY BOULE twentythe bestbakeries

CRANBERRY-WALNUT BREAD FROM EURO PANE best twenty Euro pane Her whimsically adorned green tea Her whimsicallyadornedgreentea lacked andputonamantel?Nah. tions. Shouldtheyjustbeshel- into KristyChoo’selegant confec- It somehowseemsbrutishtodig box ispresentedforthefi of pausewhenaribbon-tied Jin gift emilsswisspastry.com. Blvd., West or L.A.,310-473-6999 Pasadena, 626-577-1828. company. medley reallydoesn’tneedany haps . Buttheyeastynut-and-fruit says, poppingoneintoabag.Per- loaf. “It’sgreatwithcheese,”she in breadslikethecranberry-walnut Brea Bakerymakesitselfevident almonds. Chang’sexperienceatLa and toppedwitharaftofsliced almond extract,andmarzipan brioche moistenedwithlavender, maybe almond toast: a fat sliceof cupcake-shaped brownie?Ahhh , brown sugar,andbutter?Dense, sant? Pearcakeheavywithfruit, the possibilities.Chocolatecrois- tableside whiletheiroperators ogle without astrollerortwoparked hood focalpointthat’s seldom THERE’S GENERALLY J J SUMI CHANG’S Euro pane is exquisite.» cot slicesinamattressofmarzipan, short crustandplum,pear,orapri- favorite, the Swissversion,witha bakeries the in patisserie patisserie JIN PATISSERIE »

950 E.ColoradoBlvd.,

11551 SantaMonica café isaneighbor- a moment amoment rst time:

seed-trilled chocolatebark,wafer tion inmind.Grababagofsesame conceived withimmediateextinc- paste,androastedalmonds, chocolate mousse,coconutcream, tal, acocoa-sprinkledassemblyof green teasponge)is,likeherOrien- heart ofredbeanpasterisingfrom cake (greenteabavaroiswitha LA BREABAKERY LOS ANGELES 114 thin, beforeyougo. City, 310-789-6485. 2151 Avenue oftheStars,Century Continental Los Angeles Century City, or jinpatisserie.com.AlsoatInter- Kinney Blvd.,Venice, 310-399-8801 joansonthird.com. W. 3rdSt.,L.A.,323-655-2285 or THE SHOP’S J J ered with powderedsugar. a barelystablearrangementshow- of quiveryapricotwhippedcream, - cakewitha midriff tionery b the pantry’struemarvel,itsconfec- with frosting.But whose precise layersaremortared with theBettyCrocker-stylecakes, elevations, we’renewlyinfatuated marshmallow icingreachesdizzying cupcakes whosechocolate-dipped we admire,andconsume,theCloud to Joan’stonylarder. As muchas the additionofmorebakedgoods

oan’s on third on third FEBRUARY 2009 elly dancer,isthehazel- expansion allowed for expansionallowedfor »

1202 Abbot »

8350 La brea bakery S. LaBreaA door swingingalldaylong. orange water,tokeepthescreen oche, accentedwithmarzipanand out twice-bakedsourcherrybri- fruit pastes,conspirewithaknock- of serious stock, Italiancandiesand and almondcookiesthatseemborn than indulgent.,macaroons, sanal foodseemessentialrather her geniusformakingpremiumarti- world shop,whoseshelvesradiate ens, butshekeepsahandintheold- the bakeryanditsindustrialkitch- Silverton, co-ownerofMozza, sold veloped byNancySilvertonin1989. a wild-grape-fedstarteryeastde- in Parmesan— share theheritage of nuts, olives,orraisins,blanketed with ryeorrosemary,studded sandwich loaves,androlls,suffused ery—shaped intorounds,baguettes, rustic breadsatL.A.’siconicbak- THE MORETHAN La brea bakery labreabakery.com.

ve., L.A., 323-939-6813 or ve., L.A.,323-939-6813 or 100 styles of 100stylesof » 624 624

FROM TOP: COURTESY LA BREA BAKERY; COURTESY JIN PATISSERIE 115 115 | | rst shop rst that got a chai cake 125 Broadway,

» LOS ANGELES LOS ANGELES

| | 3 SQUARE CAFÉ + BAKERY 12835 W

ashington Blvd.,L.A.,310- loaves, with burnished dark brownloaves, with burnished dark enough to exteriors just thick within.protect the soft white bread » 578-8171 or rockenwagner.com. Santa Monica, Also at 311 Arizona Ave., 310-394-4267, and 3 Square Café + Bakery, 1121 Abbot Kinney Blvd., 310-399-6504. Venice, lled and then rolled in chocolate,

FEBRUARY 2009 FEBRUARY 2009 and still turns the cupcake wackiness dent 9635 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, Beverly Blvd., Monica 9635 S. Santa

combos, whether a classic Madagas- avor 310-274-8765 or sprinklescupcakes.com. 310-274-8765 It’s not just the spelling of It’s makeover in what looks to be the fi tube shaped , in a chain. ’s and ridged, gets piped out here in chocolate in. Fried vanilla as well as in the traditional but crunchy a light which creates rice oil, fi crust, it’s Nutella with nuts, or coconut, shot through or pastry cream, and popped into nifty can- isters for safe traveling. or xooro.com. 310-260-2919 Monica, Santa Sprinkles Cupcakes Sprinkles Candace Nelson set -owner Exec off out the best. When our hankering for the frosted ones surfaces, this is where we go. (as opposed to crazy) The thoughtful Why? fl cake with chocolate- car bourbon-vanilla cream cheese icing or a spiced site, too. Love the Web with vanilla-chai. » Xooro Sprinkles Cupcakes Xooro tops Hans g, and g, n n , melt ondulce de leche 315 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale,

. These are confi bâtards. » choux pas- öckenwagner öckenwagner lled with lled

818-956-5996 or portosbakery.com. Bur- Also at 3614 W. Magnolia Blvd., bank, 818-846-9100. Röckenwagner when it comes toRöckenwagner when it comes chefpretzel bread. The German-born it withtwists it traditionally, weaves it incheese and bacon, minimizes (which lend themselves baby poufs to a quick nosh of a sandwich), and -inch family- maximizes it with 14 friendly RR bakery bakery NOBODY IN TOWN ness, and for the luminous coquitosthe luminous ness, and for balls ofen almibar—Ping-Pong encased in a goldencoconut paste The shortbread kisses,candied shell. fi impact. lled, L.A. native L.A. lled, s—what’s left to left s—what’s are fat little pan- lledpastries.com. WHEN JUST ONE MEANS BUSINESS MEANS ONE DESSERT WHEN JUST For locations in Southern For

bean fi lling as well as with azuki bean fi xings. At Fulfi At xings. imagawa-yaki lled to make inroads 9405 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, Beverly Blvd., Monica 9405 S. Santa

California, go to beardpapas.com. go to California, 310-860-0776 or fulfi 310-860-0776 ’s Beard Papa’s Beard The name, the cartoon logo, the sheer silli- ness of a chain (started in Japan) dedicated cream puff to palm-size The original do but open wide? creamtry coddling a dollop of cold vanilla but goavors, still trumps the gussied-up fl your -crust or choco- ahead and have with chocolate loaded late-covered puff with powdered sugar, pastry cream. Dusted » these are a kick. in what look like muffi cakes cooked ed at the last moment with stuff cups and assorted fi puts his Ima through Susumu Tsuchihashi serving them with the lter, the fusion fi traditional banana and Nutella or goat cheese, fi honey. The azuki-green tea latte is stellar. The azuki-green tea latte is stellar. honey. » Fulfi Fulfi lled Fulfi Beard Papa’s Beard Single Μinded 10850 W Blvd.,ashington

» Culver City, 310-559-9933 or platineCulver City, 310-559-9933 .com. Porto’s bakery Porto’s HAS YET GUAVA crescent-shaped , sug- crescent-shaped empanadas, highlyar-sprinkled turnovers, and pies. The postres deserve all touted they re- the message board praise ceive, but they aren’t the only sirens elephant suckers for the here. We’re ears, their myriad layers pressed into a sweet, crunchy substantive- in American cuisine (although thein American cuisine (although its jam istrees grow well in L.A.), but pas- elemental in Latin American fami- tries. Porto’s, the 38-year-old andly-owned Cuban restaurant inbakery, showcases the fruit talent in the service of simple plea- talent in the service sures. Porto’s bakery

8950

» started her L.A. of stunning multi- 9466 Charleville (with fi llings of choc- (with fi

» premier cru models are a provence provence a a provence from Madagascar vanillaavors, eur de sel) draw a and Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310-275-0023 or paulettemacarons.com. Platine JAMIE CANTOR THE COLUMNS Paulette macarons macarons L colored macarons arranged along colored a tiered, gleaming white shelf this place the look of a closet give to Colombian coffee to “sweet wed- ding almond,” as well as the cheerful gift boxes, make this L.A.’s destination. museum. Pastry chef Christophe Michalak’s lays, and he more pillowy than most lling with a generous his ganache fi hand. The purity and range of the fl baking company after working for two years at the French Laundry in Napa. Her new retail space opens this month, but long-standing pri- vate and commercial clients know iced all about her custom-shaped sugar cookies, caramel-and-nut- topped brownies, bite-size lemon meringue grahams, baby pots de crème, and, well, the list goes on. Cantor’s creations, many of which versions of favorite are lilliputian hits, are the work of a sophisticated W. Olympic Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310- 888-8833 or laprovencecafe.com. olate, almond, and Nutella, no less), no and Nutella, olate, almond, ns, and macar- muffi tarts, scones, ons (chocolate, , caramel fl to thecoffee-with-a-snack crowd this mini- distressed wood tables at mall café, and with good reason. away,But the dessert that blew us that made us rethink the autumnal prece- gourd with a profound and was dent-shattering awareness, the pumpkin pie with chocolate that makes ganache, a partnership a debutante out of a deadweight Imagine a pumpkin-redolent dolt. mousse set in a crust that’s been cushioned with a schmear the pie’s season- of chocolate. True, al, but it’s also exceptional, and when Thanksgiving rolls back around, you’re going to want it. patisserie patisserie L Platine Paulette JESSICA BOONE Sarkis pastry Sandee hier was“mrs Sandee hier was “mrs hier Sandee was porting stream specialtiesincludeatrans- macaroons, tahini. Less-main- of cookies:walnut-stuffednazuk gles ofdeep-frieddough)andyards the MiddleEastwithzulubia(squig- cashews. Thedisplaycasesspan fi shredded with glisteningwholepistachios, sells baklavaineveryguise:bourma pastry shop,whichopenedin1983, wheat fl What sortsofsubstitutesdoyou usefor children onagluten-andcasein-free diet. cow’s milk—andit’s populartoputautistic go off glutenandcasein—the proteinin digestive disordersandnerve in whichglutenistoxic]. Many peoplewith syndrome], celiac disease[adisorder who have lupus,IBS[irritablebowel MS, Who comestoyourshop? gluten- anddairy-freebreadssweets. sitive Baker, aCulverCity shopdedicatedto In2007,complications. sheopenedtheSen- that cantrigger intestinalandneurological sitive togluten,theproteininmany grains of theirfourchildrenturnedouttobesen- Hines ,” shesays, untilherhusbandandthree GLENDALE’S FIRST Sarkis pastry starches to lighten it up—tapioca starch, starches tolighten it up—tapiocastarch, nger baklava rolled around ground nger baklavarolledaroundground Free for Free Αll , a layered ashet-sarayan, alayered our? kataifi

We userice fl ourandsome fi lled with walnuts, lled withwalnuts, Armenian Armenian SUSINA NO GLUTEN, NODAIRY,NO GLUTEN, TONSOFTASTE BUT

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398-3999. Washington Blvd.,Pasadena,626- sarkispastry.com. Alsoat1776E. THE DESCRIPTION baker T drizzled withsyrup. wheels ofsweetcheeseandashta , andhalaweteljibn,pin- ashta water-scented pastrycreamcalled bread puddinglinedwiththerose chewiness, garlic waftsfrom the The bagelshavethatgoodbagel in theircreation(seesidebarbelow). the dietaryrestrictionsconsidered cashew “cheese”),never hint at fi like herbreadsticks,,muf- pareve. SandeeHier’sbrownies, wheat free,dairykosher,and backdraft ofsuperiorcocoathat’s as-you-chew-it browniewitha laty, eyes-involuntarily-close- ronic, ifnotdeceitful:arich,choco- dale A ns, cookies, and pizza (made with ns, cookies,andpizza(madewith he sensitive he sensitive sensitive and smothered with crushed andsmotheredwithcrushed ve., Glendale, 818-956-6636 or ve., Glendale,818-956-6636or

gels? likebread andbagels bread andba- acting What replacestheglutentokeep your to corn,too. starch, butalotofpeoplearesensitive starch,andoccasionallycorn- years!” Tears rolldowntheirface. say, “Bread! Ihaven’t hadbreadin fi They’ll gluten people—forgetthebrownies. popular, Butfor evenwithwheateaters. the brownies,andbreadsticksare really What’s thebiggest seller?Everyoneloves withsomething else. in conjunction with justaglutenallergy. It’s usuallygluten with soy.” People usually don’t comein allergic toeggs, we’ll say, “Have this, made “Here, have this,madewithegg.” Ifthey’re meal. Ifsomeone’s allergictonuts,we’ll say, alotofthingshave almond a littlesoy;

soundsoxymo- » One item will have egg; one will have onewillhave One itemwillhave egg;

1111 S.Glen- Susina bakerySusina 1800 orthesensitivebaker.com. ington Blvd.,CulverCity,310-815- JENNA TURNER Susina bakery laden alternatives. in acrowdofcream-fi its ovensthatwouldn’tholdown intolerant, nothingemergesfrom of thosewhoarelactoseorgluten to restoreindulgencethediets ent. Althoughthekitchenisgeared the snickerdoodles’primaryingredi- seems impossiblethatbutterisn’t hand-shaped breadsticks,andit tries alongside elegant glazed fruit tries alongsideelegantglazedfruit that offered heartybreakfastpas- her planforaEuropean-stylecafé Turner stuckwithandtriumphedin camped forSanFrancisco.But ing), justasherpastrychefde- Susina (newsignage,newpackag- forced achange.Sherebrandedas brought byasimilarlynamedoutfi Plum Bakery,in2001.Alawsuit which sheoriginallycalledSugar- wringer aftersheopenedhershop, ve ve went through the went throughthe »

10836 lled, wheat- 1 / 2 Wash- t Sweet lady janeSweet lady our list. shell,rankshigheston and enclosedinaWedgwood green try creamandraspberrypreserves ter spongelayerslimned withpas- tion: ThePrincessCake,threebut- are filled withqualifi be thebestknown.Butshelves ideal weddingconfection)may raspberries, andstrawberries(an cream andfi lled withblackberries, layer cakelatheredwithwhipped her strawberryshortcake-inspired best cakesaround.TripleBerry, hart’s kitchenputsoutsomeofthe the factremainsthatJaneLock- service fromattitudinalstaff , but of complaintsaboutindifferent or vanillabakeshop.com. or vanillabakeshop.com. Blvd., SantaMonica, 310-458-6644 late-lined short-crustshells. paeans tocholesterolsetinchoco- nana creampies,gloriouswhipped wonder ofSusina’sindividualba- caloric insoucianceandtextural tons . Nothing,though,beatsthe some ofthemnolargerthanbut- cakes, andfairy-size cookies, tarts, appleandpeartartins,layer GRANTED, WE’VE Sweet lady jane THE CUPCAKE bake shop shop V susinabakery.com. Beverly Blvd.,L.A.,323-934-7900or itty-bitty spoons. packed intoshootercupsharboring or pumpkinpie,tiramisu, Dirt Cake) tions oficeboxdesserts(keylime mation—VBS makeselfi not ascintillaoficingbreakingfor- cakes thatseemlathefi frosting dos. Along withmodlayer mal shardsoflightfromswirled sugar crystalsrefractinginfi Their littleheadsshimmer, yellow cake,milkchocolateicing). conut, Mom’sBirthdayCake(moist lemon andraspberry,toastedco- mini- andfull-sizecupcakes:Meyer meticulously organizedrowsof dy whenbeholdingthistiny affair’s Still, it’shardnottogetalittlegid- velvet (it’sdye,forcryingoutloud). the inexplicable venerationofred sions abouticing-to-cakeratios, bitter rivalries,impassioneddiscus- ten outofhand.Long queues, 323-653-7145 orsweetladyjane.com.

anilla anilla »

8360 MelroseA situationhasgot- » heard our share heardourshare ed competi-

512 Wilshire nished— n rendi- ve., L.A., ve., L.A., nitesi- »

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EDMUND BARR twentythe bestbakeries

CARAMEL- TOPPED BROWNIES FROM PLATINE