HOLFOB I DAY BAKINGOPENER Sugar Rush HOW LOS ANGELES CHEF DAVID LEFEVRE’S LOVE OF HIS MOM’S CHRISTMAS TREATS INSPIRED A CHARITABLE HOLIDAY COOKIE SWAP THAT HAS FANS MARKING THEIR CALENDARS.

BY JANE SIGAL PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN KERNICK

einkorn shortbreads, p. tk

chocolate peppermint marshmallow cookies, p. tk

key lime macarons, p. tk

spiced italian pecan meringues, p. tk

christmas morning biscotti, p. tk food stylist: simon andrews; style editor: suzie myers suzie editor: style andrews; simon stylist: food

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ODAY DAVID LEFEVRE is a cookie pro, but the memory of his mother’s cookie exchange gave him the there was a moment when his family idea of doing his own swap, for a good cause: On one night endured a mild panic about who would roll, in December, a group of prominent chefs across L.A. would cut and shape the holiday treats known as serve plates of bartered cookies at their restaurants, with St. Nicholas Day letters. “When I was proceeds going to the Los Angeles Regional Food Bank. growing up in Wisconsin, my mother always He reached out to friends, like Ted Hopson, his old sous- made them at Christmas,” says the chef who’s currently the executive chef and co-owner of Los Angeles chef, who owns a trio of beachside spots: The The Bellwether in Studio City, and Della Gossett, a cook he TArthur J, Fishing with Dynamite and Manhattan Beach Post. knew from his days working for Charlie Trotter and who now He recounts how his mom baked an almond cream–filled heads up the pastry kitchen at Spago Beverly Hills. And he version of the letters, one of the cookies traditionally made contacted people he admired, like Joshua Graves, the pastry to celebrate the feast of St. Nicholas, observed on December chef at Rose Cafe in Venice, and Ivan Arturo Marquez of 5 or 6. She would churn out dozens of them, trading some Broken Spanish in downtown L.A. Cumulatively, the six with relatives and neighbors for their cookies and saving the participating chefs baked, swapped and sold more than 1,000 rest for Christmas morning. “We kids were allowed to open cookies, raising $2,500 for the food bank. all the stockings and one present before the adults got up,” After its successful debut, the cookie exchange is back LeFevre says, “and we could eat the St. Nick letters.” again this year, on December 3—but with changes. For one But when LeFevre was 20, his mother was hospitalized, thing, the chefs will make more cookies. They drastically and her absence left a gaping, letter-shaped hole in the underestimated demand the first time around. Plus, they will holiday. So LeFevre, then a student at The Culinary Institute offer patrons the option of ordering an assortment for takeout. of America, stepped into his mom’s baking shoes. This season’s lineup will have an incredible His first batches were clumsy, but over the years variety of deliciousness—homey bar cookies, he learned just the right amount of almond “The cookies were Rice Krispies Treats flavored with matcha tea, cream to use and how to flawlessly pinch the perfect, but Parisian-style macarons, Mexican-inspired dough into letter shapes so the filling didn’t spill thumbprint cookies, nutty einkorn shortbreads out. “Eventually, they were perfect,” he says, my sister wasn’t and homages to Mallomars and Oreos. “but my sister wasn’t really excited by them. really excited. “This project brings together people in What she loved most were the imperfections.” What she loved our community who see the big picture,” LeFevre has tried to find a place for the most were the says LeFevre. “It’s about helping others and cherished recipe on one of his restaurant imperfections.” enjoyment. The greatest thing about being a menus, but it’s never quite fit. Then last year, —david lefevre chef is making people happy through food.”

St. Nicholas Day Letters David LeFevre twists his flaky, buttery almond cream–filled until smooth, about 4 minutes. Form each log into an S shape. cookies into the letter S in honor of his sister, Suzanne, but Spoon the spiced almond paste Repeat with the remaining disk they can be adapted to make any letter. Whatever the shape, into a pastry bag fitted with a of dough, almond paste and a hit of fleur de sel just before baking kicks up the flavor. ½-inch tip or use a sturdy, beaten egg. Freeze the cookies resealable plastic bag and snip until firm, about 1 hour. off a corner. Active 50 min; Total 3 hr 15 min 2 Tbsp. whole milk 5. Preheat the oven to 375°. Makes 16 Fleur de sel, for sprinkling 3. Line 2 baking sheets with Brush the cookies with the 1½ cups all-purpose flour parchment paper. In a small remaining beaten egg and 1. In a food processor, pulse the bowl, lightly beat the egg with sprinkle with fleur de sel. Bake 2 sticks unsalted butter, flour with the butter until the the milk. On a lightly floured for 20 to 25 minutes, until cubed and chilled mixture resembles coarse meal. surface, roll out 1 disk of dough golden. Transfer the cookies to ½ cup ice water Add the ice water and pulse just into a 14-by-8-inch rectangle. a wire rack and let cool slightly. 4 oz. almond paste until the dough comes together. Cut the dough crosswise into Serve warm or at room Divide in half and press into eight 1¾-inch strips. temperature. 1 large egg white disks. Wrap in plastic and refrig- 4. Pipe a line of almond paste MAKE AHEAD The cookies can 1/3 cup granulated sugar erate until firm, at least 1 hour down the center of each strip. be stored in an airtight con- or overnight. 2 Tbsp. light brown Brush one side of each strip tainer for up to 3 days. sugar 2. Meanwhile, in a stand mixer with the beaten egg. Roll one ½ tsp. pure vanilla extract fitted with the paddle, beat the side over the filling and pinch almond paste with the egg ¼ tsp. ground cardamom the seam closed. Transfer the white, both sugars, vanilla and logs to one of the prepared 1 large egg cardamom at medium speed baking sheets seam side down.

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KEY LIME MACARONS Uyen Kirshenbaum

Key Lime Macarons These tangy, one-bite sandwiched meringues fromUyen 3. Make the macaron shells mixture. Using a rubber spat- Nguyen, the executive pastry chef at Manhattan Beach Post, Line 4 or 5 baking sheets with ula, fold in the remaining get a surprise pop of flavor courtesy of fennel seeds. silicon mats or parchment meringue, then cut through it, paper. In a medium bowl, sift pressing it against the side of the almond flour with the con- the bowl to slightly deflate Active 1 hr; Total 3 hr; Makes 70 with 1 tablespoon of water. In a fectioners’ sugar. Stir in half of to a thick, lavalike consistency. medium saucepan, combine FILLING the egg whites, the lime zest the Key lime juice with the 7. Transfer the meringue to and food coloring until a 3 large eggs granulated sugar and bring to a a pastry bag fitted with a plain smooth paste forms; the color ½ tsp. powdered gelatin boil over moderately high heat, 1/2-inch tip; pipe onto the pre- should be a shade or two darker stirring occasionally. Slowly pared baking sheets in 1-inch ¾ cup fresh Key lime juice than the final desired color. pour the juice mixture into the mounds, 1 inch apart. Tap the ¾ cup granulated sugar eggs, whisking constantly. 4. In a small saucepan, com- sheets on the counter and top 1½ sticks unsalted butter, Scrape the egg mixture back bine the granulated sugar with each macaron shell with a cubed and chilled into the pan and cook over ¼ cup of water and bring to a few fennel seeds. Let dry until MACARON SHELLS moderate heat, stirring, until boil, stirring occasionally. Cook a skin forms, 1 to 3 hours. bubbles appear and the mix- over moderate heat, without 2 cups almond flour 8. Preheat the oven to 350°. ture thickens, about 3 minutes. stirring, until the sugar syrup Bake the meringues for 9 to 1 2/3 cups confectioners’ sugar Add the gelatin mixture and stir reaches 240° on a candy ther- 12 minutes, until crisp on the until melted. mometer, about 5 minutes. 5 large egg whites, at room outside and slightly chewy on temperature 2. Set a fine sieve over a small 5. Meanwhile, in a stand mixer the inside. Transfer the baking 2 tsp. finely grated lime heatproof bowl. Strain the cus- fitted with the whisk, beat the sheets to wire racks and let zest tard into the bowl; discard the remaining egg whites at cool completely. Using a thin 30 drops of green food solids. Gradually whisk the but- medium speed until medium metal spatula, peel the coloring or 5 drops of ter into the custard until it is peaks form, about 4 minutes. meringues off the baking green food gel fully incorporated. Cover with Carefully drizzle in the hot sheets. Pipe the custard onto 1 cup granulated sugar plastic and refrigerate until syrup at medium speed. the flat sides of half the cold, at least 2 hours. Spoon Increase the speed to high and meringues. Top with the 1½ tsp. fennel seeds the custard into a small pastry beat the meringue until stiff remaining meringues. bag fitted with a 1/4-inch tip or and glossy, about 5 minutes. 1. Make the filling In a medium MAKE AHEAD The macarons use a sturdy, resealable plastic bowl, beat the eggs to mix. In a 6. Stir one-third of the can be refrigerated in an air- bag and snip off a corner. small bowl, whisk the gelatin meringue into the almond tight container for up to 5 days.

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Chocolate Peppermint Marshmallow Cookies “Mallomars are my absolute favorite,” says Spago executive pastry chef Della Gossett. “In my variation, the crunch of peppermint candies balances the pillowy marshmallow.”

Active 1 hr 15 min; Total 3 hr high in 10-second increments, 30 min; Makes 4 dozen stirring after each one, until MARSHMALLOWS the gelatin is just melted, about 50 seconds. Nonstick cooking spray 2. In a stand mixer fitted with ¼ cup powdered gelatin the whisk, beat the egg whites 2 large egg whites, at room at medium-low speed until very temperature foamy. Meanwhile, in a medium 2¼ cups sugar saucepan, combine the sugar 1 Tbsp. light corn syrup with the corn syrup and 1 cup of water and bring to a boil, 2 tsp. pure vanilla extract stirring occasionally. Cook over 1 cup crushed peppermint moderate heat, without candies (10 oz.), plus stirring, until the sugar syrup more for sprinkling registers 260° on a candy 8 to 12 drops of red food thermometer, about 10 min- coloring utes. Remove the pan from the

COOKIES heat and carefully stir in the gelatin until melted. 1¼ cups bread flour 3. Carefully drizzle the hot 1 cup pastry flour syrup into the egg whites down ½ tsp. kosher salt the side of the bowl, beating at medium speed. Add the vanilla 2 sticks unsalted butter, at disks. Wrap in plastic and 2-inch marshmallows. Place room temperature and beat at high speed until refrigerate until firm, at least thick and glossy, about 10 min- 1 marshmallow on top of each 1 cup sugar 1 hour or overnight. utes. Using a rubber spatula, cookie and transfer to baking ½ vanilla bean, split fold in the 1 cup of peppermint 5. On a lightly floured sheet of sheets. Freeze until cold, at lengthwise and seeds candies. Sprinkle in the food parchment paper, roll out 1 disk least 15 minutes. scraped coloring, then quickly scrape of dough into a rectangle, 8. Make the glaze In a large 1 large egg the marshmallow mixture onto 1/4 inch thick. Transfer on the microwavable bowl, combine 1 large egg yolk the prepared baking sheet, parchment paper to a baking the chocolate with the cocoa swirling the food coloring, and sheet and refrigerate until firm, butter. Microwave on high in 2 tsp. pure vanilla extract smooth the surface. Let stand about 30 minutes. Repeat with 20-second increments, stirring Neutral oil, such as at room temperature until set, the second disk of dough. after each one, until the mix- grapeseed, for brushing at least 2 hours or overnight. 6. Preheat the oven to 325°. ture is melted and smooth. GLAZE 4. Meanwhile, make the Using a square cookie cutter or 9. Coat 2 rimmed baking 28 oz. dark chocolate (65% cookies In a medium bowl, a knife, cut 2-inch squares from sheets with cooking spray. Line to 70% cocoa), chopped whisk the bread flour with the the dough and arrange on the with parchment paper and coat 4 oz. cocoa butter pastry flour and salt. In a stand baking sheets 1 inch apart. with cooking spray. Using a mixer fitted with the paddle, Reroll the scraps and cut more fork, dip each cookie in the 1. Make the marshmallows beat the butter with the sugar squares. Bake the cookies for glaze, then set on a prepared Coat a 13-by-18-inch rimmed and vanilla bean seeds at 10 to 12 minutes, until golden baking sheet and sprinkle with baking sheet with cooking medium speed until fluffy, about brown. Transfer the baking some peppermint candy. spray. Line with parchment 5 minutes. Beat in the egg, egg sheets to wire racks and let the Refrigerate until set, at least paper and coat with cooking yolk and vanilla extract. Beat in cookies cool. 15 minutes, and serve cold. spray. In a small microwavable the dry ingredients at low speed 7. Lightly brush the cookie cut- MAKE AHEAD The cookies can bowl, whisk the gelatin with until just combined. Divide the ter or a knife with oil, repeating be refrigerated in an airtight 3/4 cup of water. Microwave on dough in half and press into as needed. Cut out forty-eight container for up to 4 days.

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Molasses Thumbprints with Cajeta “The cajeta filling for these cookies was a natural twist at heatproof bowl. Strain the turbinado sugar in a shallow a Mexican restaurant,” says pastry chef Ivan Arturo Marquez caramel into the bowl; discard bowl. Roll tablespoons of dough of Broken Spanish. “I also like the play of the sweet goat-milk the solids. Let cool slightly. into balls, then coat in the turbi- caramel, slightly bitter molasses and sharp candied ginger.” Cover with plastic wrap and nado sugar; transfer to the pre- refrigerate until firm and cold, pared baking sheets, spaced Active 55 min; Total 3 hr ½ cup light brown sugar at least 1 hour. 1 inch apart. Freeze for Makes about 3 dozen 15 minutes. ¼ cup unsulfured molasses 2. Meanwhile, make the CAJETA cookies In a medium bowl, 4. Bake the cookies, rotating 1 large egg whisk the flour with the corn- the baking sheets halfway 4 cups goat milk ½ tsp. pure vanilla paste starch, ground ginger, cinna- through, for about 10 minutes, 1 cup granulated sugar ½ cup finely chopped mon, cloves and baking soda. until crisp on the outside but 1 tsp. finely grated lemon candied ginger (2½ oz.) In a stand mixer fitted with still tender on the inside. zest the paddle, beat the butter with Remove the baking sheets from ½ cup turbinado sugar the brown sugar at medium the oven. Using the back of a ½ tsp. baking soda 1. Make the cajeta In a speed until light and fluffy, ½-teaspoon measuring spoon, ½ vanilla bean, split medium saucepan, combine about 2 minutes. Add the make an indentation in the cen- lengthwise and seeds molasses and beat until incor- ter of each warm cookie. Trans- scraped the goat milk with the granu- lated sugar and lemon zest and porated. Add the egg and fer the baking sheets to wire COOKIES bring to a simmer over moder- vanilla paste and beat until racks and let cool completely. smooth. Beat in the dry ingredi- 1½ cups all-purpose flour ate heat. Remove the pan from 5. Fill each cookie with about ents at low speed until just 1 Tbsp. cornstarch the heat and whisk in the bak- ½ teaspoon of the cold caramel combined. Stir in the candied ing soda and the vanilla bean and refrigerate just until set, 1½ tsp. ground ginger ginger. Cover the bowl with seeds. Return the pan to mod- about 30 minutes. 1 tsp. ground cinnamon erately low heat and simmer, plastic wrap and refrigerate MAKE AHEAD The caramel whisking occasionally, until the until cold, at least 1 hour. 1 tsp. ground cloves can be refrigerated in an air- caramel is amber and the con- 3. Preheat the oven to 325°. ¾ tsp. baking soda tight container for up to a week. sistency of condensed milk, Line 2 baking sheets with The cookies can be refrigerated 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, at about 1 hour and 30 minutes. parchment paper. Spread the for up to 3 days. room temperature Set a fine sieve over a small

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Spiced Italian Pecan Meringues “Don’t judge the taste of these cookies by the crags and cracks,” says Rossoblu sous-chef Merrin Mae Gray. (Their Italian name is brutti ma buoni, “ugly but good.”) The pecans and grappa add an unexpected elegance, and the crisp outsides and chewy centers make them seriously addictive.

Active 15 min; Total 2 hr medium-high speed until Makes about 1½ dozen foamy, about 30 seconds. ¾ cup shelled pecans Beat in the sugar 1 tablespoon at a time until the whites are 3 large egg whites stiff and glossy, 5 to 7 minutes. ¾ cup sugar Beat in the grappa, cinnamon, 1½ tsp. grappa nutmeg and cloves. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold in ¼ tsp. ground cinnamon the chopped pecans. 1/8 tsp. ground nutmeg 3. Spoon heaping tablespoons 1/8 tsp. ground cloves of the meringue onto the pre- pared baking sheets, spaced 1. Preheat the oven to 300°. 1 inch apart. Bake for Spread the pecans on a small 15 minutes. Reduce the oven Raspberry Linzer Bars rimmed baking sheet and temperature to 200° and bake Della Gossett’s linzer bars are a sturdier version of her toast, tossing them halfway for 1 hour and 15 minutes, until Austrian-born boss Wolfgang Puck’s adored but delicate through, for about 20 minutes, the meringues are firm on the cookies. “I added rye flour for an earthy taste,” she says, “and until browned. Transfer to a outside but still chewy in the I turned them into bars so they hold up for a cookie swap.” work surface and let cool, then center. Transfer the baking coarsely chop. sheets to wire racks and let Active 25 min; Total 3 hr plus until the dough just comes 2. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets cool completely. overnight chilling; Makes 24 together. Press one-third of the with parchment paper. In a MAKE AHEAD The meringues 1½ cups all-purpose flour dough and two-thirds of the stand mixer fitted with the dough into 2 disks and wrap in can be stored in an airtight con- ¾ cup rye flour whisk, beat the egg whites at plastic. Refrigerate overnight tainer for up to 1 week. 6 Tbsp. hazelnut flour until firm. 1½ tsp. baking powder 2. Preheat the oven to 350°. 1 tsp. ground cinnamon Coat a 9-by-13-inch metal bak- ing pan with cooking spray. Line ¾ tsp. kosher salt with parchment paper, leaving 2 sticks unsalted butter, at a 2-inch overhang on the 2 long room temperature sides, and coat with cooking 1½ cups granulated sugar spray. Using the large holes of a 4 tsp. grated lemon zest box grater, shred the larger disk of dough evenly in the pan. 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract 3. Spread the jam over the 3 large egg yolks shredded dough, leaving a Nonstick cooking spray ½-inch border. Shred the 1¼ cups raspberry jam smaller disk over the jam. Bake, rotating the pan halfway Confectioners’ sugar, for through, for 35 to 45 minutes, dusting until the top is deep golden 1. In a medium bowl, whisk the brown. Transfer to a wire rack 3 flours with the baking powder, and let cool. Refrigerate in the cinnamon and salt. In a stand pan until firm, at least 2 hours. mixer fitted with the paddle, 4. Using the paper, transfer the beat the butter with the granu- pastry to a work surface. Dust lated sugar, lemon zest and with confectioners’ sugar, cut vanilla at medium speed until into 2-inch bars and serve cold smooth, about 5 minutes. Beat or at room temperature. in the egg yolks one at a time, MAKE AHEAD The bars can be scraping down the side of the stored in an airtight container bowl, until incorporated. Beat in for up to 4 days. the dry ingredients at low speed

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Christmas Morning Biscotti Einkorn Shortbreads Merrin Mae Gray is Filipina, not Italian, but she really connects In her quest to re-create the quintessential flavor of her with Italy’s soulful food: “These biscotti spiced with cocoa nibs grandmother’s butter cookies, Roxana Jullapat, chef-owner and anise seeds are my Italian interpretation of biskotso, a twice- of Friends & Family, came up with these unique cookies that baked cookie I grew up eating with hot chocolate.” get nutty, caramel-like notes from the wheatlike grain einkorn.

page tk Beat in 2 of the eggs one at a page tk round cookie cutter, stamp out Active 25 min; Total 1 hr 45 min time. Beat in 1 tablespoon of Active 25 min; Total 2 hr 25 min cookies and transfer to 2 bak- Makes about 2 dozen the anisette. Beat in the dry Makes 20 ing sheets, spaced ½ inch Nonstick cooking spray ingredients at low speed until 6 Tbsp. confectioners’ apart. Using a small star- just combined. Mix in the cocoa sugar shaped cookie cutter, stamp 1¾ cups all-purpose flour nibs and anise seeds. out a star in the upper right 1/3 cup dark brown sugar 1 tsp. baking powder corner of each cookie. Transfer 3. On the prepared baking 2 sticks unsalted butter, the stars to a separate baking ½ tsp. baking soda sheet, using lightly floured fin- cubed, at room sheet. Reroll the scraps and cut gers, shape the dough into a Kosher salt temperature out more cookies. slightly flattened 12-inch log 5 Tbsp. unsalted butter, 1¼ cups whole-grain einkorn 3/4 inch thick. In a small bowl, 3. Bake the cookies and stars softened flour (see Note) lightly whisk the remaining egg until deep golden brown, 25 to 2/3 cup sugar with the remaining 1 teaspoon of 1 cup all-purpose flour 30 minutes for the cookies and 3 large eggs anisette. Brush the log with the 1¾ tsp. kosher salt 10 to 12 minutes for the stars. egg mixture. Bake for 20 min- Transfer the baking sheets to 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. anisette utes, until pale golden. Transfer 1. Preheat the oven to 300°. In a wire racks and let cool liqueur the baking sheet to a wire rack food processor, pulse the con- completely. ¼ cup cocoa nibs and let the log cool slightly. fectioners’ sugar with the NOTE Einkorn flour is available brown sugar until combined. 1½ tsp. whole anise seeds 4. Using a serrated knife, cut from jovialfoods.com. Add the butter and pulse to the log into diagonal, 1/2-inch- 1. Preheat the oven to 325°. combine. Add the einkorn flour, MAKE AHEAD The cookies can thick slices. Arrange on the Coat a baking sheet with cook- all-purpose flour and salt and be stored in an airtight con- baking sheet; bake, flipping ing spray. Line with parchment pulse until the dough comes tainer for up to 3 days. halfway through, for about paper; coat with cooking spray. together. Divide in half and 10 minutes, until toasted. press into disks. Wrap in plastic 2. In a medium bowl, whisk the Transfer the baking sheet to a and refrigerate for 30 minutes. flour with the baking powder, wire rack; let the biscotti cool. baking soda and a pinch of salt. 2. Roll out each disk of dough MAKE AHEAD The biscotti can In a stand mixer fitted with the between 2 sheets of parchment be stored in an airtight con- paddle, beat the butter with the paper into a 1/4-inch-thick tainer for up to 1 week. sugar at medium-high speed round. Peel off the top layer of until fluffy, about 3 minutes. parchment. Using a 2½-inch

Matcha Tea Marshmallow Crispy Treats Ted Hopson is generally not a cookie fan, but he loves and stir to coat. Let the mixture Rice Krispies Treats. “And I especially like this nontraditional stand until cool to the touch, HUNGRY combo of tannic, floral green tea and subtly sweet white about 2 minutes. FOR MORE? chocolate,” says the executive chef and co-owner of The Bellwether. 2. Working quickly, fold in the Get a bonus recipe for Chocolate white chocolate and salt until Peppermint Active 15 min; Total 1 hr 15 min 1 tsp. flaky sea salt just combined. Scrape the Sandwich Cookies Makes 15 2 Tbsp. matcha tea powder mixture into the prepared bak- at foodandwine.com 5 Tbsp. unsalted butter, ing dish and press into an even /peppermint- sliced, plus more at room 1. Brush a 9-by-13-inch baking layer. Let stand at room tem- sandwich-cookies. temperature for brushing dish with butter. In a large pot, perature until cool, about 1 lb. marshmallows melt the 5 tablespoons of but- 45 minutes. Using a sieve, dust ter over moderate heat. Add with the matcha powder. Cut 8½ cups crisped rice cereal the marshmallows and cook, into 3-inch squares and serve. (8 oz.), preferably Rice stirring with a wooden spoon, Krispies MAKE AHEAD The treats can be until completely melted, about stored in an airtight container 1 cup white chocolate chips 3 minutes. Remove the pot for up to 2 days. (6 oz.) from the heat, add the cereal

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