Select Bibliography

SELECT BIBLIOGRAPHY Adburgham, Alison, View of Fashion (Sydney, 1966). Baker, Roger, Drag (London, 1994). Amies, Hardy, Just So Far (London, 1954). Balmain, Pierre, My Years and Seasons (London, 1964). Aldrich, Robert, Gay Life and Culture: A World History Banes, Sally, Subversive Expectations: Performance Art and (New York, 2006). Paratheater in New York, 1976–1985 (Ann Arbor, 1998). Aldrich, Robert, and Garry Wotherspoon, Who’s Who Barbedette, Gilles, and Michel Carassou, Paris Gay 1925 in Gay and Lesbian History from Antiquity to World War II (Paris, 1981). (London and New York, 2002). Barnes, Richard, Mods! (London, 1991). Andermaher, Sonia, “A Queer Love Affair? Madonna and Baudelaire, Charles, “Le Dandy,” in Écrits sur L’Art, 2 Gay and Lesbian Culture,” in Diane Hamer and Belinda (Paris, 1971). Budge (eds.), The Good, The Bad, and The Gorgeous: Popular Culture’s Romance with Lesbianism (London, 1994). Beaton, Cecil, Self-Portrait with Friends, ed. Richard Buckle (London, 1979). Anderton, James, “Boys Keep Swinging,” i-D (February 2003). Beaver, Harold, “Homosexual Signs (In Memory of Roland Barthes)” [1981], in F. Cleto (ed.), Camp: Queer Arzalluz, Miren, Cristóbal Balenciaga: The Making of a Master Aesthetics and the Performing Subject (Edinburgh, 1999). (1895–1936) (London, 2011). Benaïm, Laurence, Yves Saint Laurent (Paris, 1993). Aurevilly, Jules Barbey d’, Dandyism, trans. Douglas Ainslie (New York, 1988). Bender, Marylin, The Beautiful People (New York, 1967). SELECT BIBLIOGRAPHY / 233 Bergé, Pierre, “Yves Saint Laurent, Une histoire Brannon, Robert, “The Male Sex Role: Our Culture’s d’amour,” Têtu, no. 135 (July–August 2008). Blueprint of Manhood, and What It’s Done for Us Lately,” in The Forty-nine Percent Majority: The Male Bergler, Edmund, Fashion and the Unconscious (New Sex Role, ed. Deborah S. David and Robert Brannon York, 1953). (Reading, Mass., 1976). Bergman, David (ed.), Camp Grounds: Style and Brekhus, Wayne H., Peacocks, Chameleons, Centaurs: Homosexuality (Amherst, 1993). Gay Suburbia and the Grammar of Social Identity Betsky, Aaron, Queer Space: Architecture and Same-Sex (Chicago, 2003). Desire (New York, 1997). Brett, Phillip, Elizabeth Wood, and Gary C. Thomas Bill, K., “Attitudes towards Women’s Trousers: Britain (eds.), Queering the Pitch: The New Gay and Lesbian in the 1930s,” Journal of Design History, vol. 6, no. 1 Musicology (New York, 2006). (1993). Breward, Christopher, The Culture of Fashion: A New Blackman, Inge, and Kathryn Perry, “Skirting the History of Fashionable Dress (Manchester and New Issue: Lesbian Fashion for the 1990s,” Feminist Review: York, 1995). Perverse Politics, Lesbian Issues, no. 34 (Spring 1990). –, Fashioning London: Clothing and the Modern Blachford, Gregg, “Male Dominance and the Gay Metropolis (Oxford, 2004). World,” in The Making of the Modern Homosexual. Ed. Bristow, Joseph, “Being Gay: Politics, Identity, Kenneth Plummer (London, 1981). Pleasure,” New Formations 9 (1989). Blanchard, Mary Warner, Oscar Wilde’s America: Bronsky, Michael, Culture Clash: The Making of Gay Counterculture in the Gilded Age (New Haven and Sensibility (Boston, 1984). London, 1998). Buck, Anne, Dress in Eighteenth-century England (New Blass, Bill, Bare Blass, ed. Cathy Horyn (New York, York, 1979). 2002). Bullough, Vern L., and Bonnie Bullough, Cross Blume, Mary, The Master of Us All: Balenciaga, His Dressing, Sex, and Gender (Philadelphia, 1993). Workrooms, His World (New York, 2013). Burke, Peter, The Italian Renaissance, second ed. Bolton, Andrew, Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty (Princeton, 1987). (New York, New Haven, and London, 2011). Burney, Fanny, Evelina, or A Young Lady’s Entrance into Bourdieu, Pierre, Distinction: A Social Critique of the the World, letter X (London, 1964). Judgment of Taste (London, 1984). Butler, Judith, Gender Trouble: Feminism and the Boyd, David Lorenzo, and Ruth Mazo Karras, “The Subversion of Identity (London, 1990). Interrogation of a Male Transvestite Prostitute in Fourteenth-century London,” G. L. Q. A Journal of –, “Imitation and Gender Insubordination,” in Inside/ Lesbian and Gay Studies, vol. 1, no. 4 (1995). Out: Lesbian Theories, Gay Theories, ed. Diana Fuss (London, 1991). Boyes, Roger, “Gay Stalker Threatened to Kill Queen of Fashion,” The Times (May 5, 2006), News: 40. Calthrop, Dion Clayton, English Costume Painted and Described (London, 1907). Bracewell, Michael, “Dress Codes,” Guardian (September 25, 1993). SELECT BIBLIOGRAPHY / 234 Carpenter, John T., “’Twisted’ Poses: The Kabuku –, “Invisible Men: Gay Men’s Dress in Britain, 1950– Aesthetic in Early Edo Genre Painting,” in Nicole 1970,” in Amy de la Haye and Elizabeth Wilson (eds.), Coodlidge Rousmaniere (ed.), Kazari: Decoration and Defining Dress: Dress as Object, Meaning and Identity Display in Japan 15th–19th Centuries (London, 2002). (Manchester and New York, 1999). Castiglione, Baldesar, Etiquette for Renaissance –, “Queers and Mods: Social and Sartorial Interaction Gentlemen, trans. George Bull [1967] (London, in London’s Carnaby Street,” in The Meanings of Dress, abridged edn., 1995). third edn, ed. Kimberly A. Miller-Spillman, Andrew Reilly, and Patricia Hunt-Hurst (New York, 2012). Castle, Terry, The Apparitional Lesbian: Female Homosexuality and Modern Culture (New York, 1993). Coleman, Elizabeth Ann, The Genius of Charles James (New York, 1982). –, Masquerade and Civilization: The Carnivalesque in Eighteenth-century English Culture and Fiction (Stanford, Colman, David, “Gay or Straight? Hard to Tell,” New 1986). York Times (June 19, 2005). Chaleyssin, Patrick, Robert de Montesquiou, mécène et Collins, Patricia Hill, Black Sexual Politics (New York, dandy (Paris, 1992).Chatwin, Bruce, What am I Doing 2005). Here? (New York, 1989). Connell, R. W., “A Very Straight Gay: Masculinity, Chauncey, George, Gay New York: Gender, Urban Homosexual Experience, and the Dynamics of Culture, and the Making of the Gay Male World, 1890– Gender,” American Sociological Review, vol. 57, no. 6 1940 (New York, 1995). (1992). Cheeser, Lucy, “Cross Dressing, Sexual (Mis) Cook, Matt (ed.), A Gay History of Britain: Love and Representation and Homosexual Desire, 1863–1893,” Sex Between Men Since the Middle Ages (Oxford, 2007). in David L.Phillips and Graham Willett, Australia’s Cooper, Emmanuel, The Sexual Perspective: Homosexual Histories: Gay and Lesbian Perspectives 5 Homosexuality and Art in the Last 100 Years in the West (Melbourne, 2000). (London and New York, 1994). Ciasullo, Anne M., “Making her (In)Visible: Cultural Copley, Anthony, Sexual Moralities in France, 1780–1980 Representations of Lesbianism and the Lesbian Body (London and New York, 1989). in the 1990s,” Feminist Studies, vol. 27, no. 3 (Autumn, 2001). Craik, Jennifer, The Face of Fashion (London, 1994). Clark, Danae, “Commodity Lesbianism,” in Henry Crane, Lionel, “How to Spot a Possible Homo,” Daily Aberlove, Michelle Aina Barale, and David M. Mirror (April 28, 1963). Halperin (eds.), The Lesbian and Gay Studies Reader Cumming, Alan, “Brides, Revisited,” Harpers Bazaar (London and New York, 1993). (April 2013). –, “Commodity Lesbianism,” Camera Obscura, nos. Currie, Elizabeth, “Prescribing Fashion: Dress, Politics 25–6 (January/May 1991). and Gender in Sixteenth-century Italian Conduct Cohen, Lisa, All We Know: Three Lives (New York, Literature,” Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body 2012). and Culture, vol. 4, no. 2 (2000). Cole, Shaun, Don We Now Our Gay Apparel: Gay Men’s D’Aurevilly, Jules Barbey, Dandyism (New York, 1988). Dress in the Twentieth Century (Oxford and New York, David, Hugh, On Queer Street: A Social History of 2000). British Homosexuality 1895–1995 (London, 1997). SELECT BIBLIOGRAPHY / 235 Davis, Madeline, and Elizabeth Lapovsky Kennedy, Duberman, Martin Baum, Martha Vicinus, and George “Oral History and the Study of Sexuality in the Chauncy (eds.), Hidden from History: Reclaiming the Lesbian Community: Buffalo, New York, 1940–1960,” Gay and Lesbian Past (London, 1991). in Martin Duberman, Martha Vicinus, and George Dunlop, Ian, Marie Antoinette: A Portrait (London, Chauncey Jr. (eds.), Hidden From History: Reclaiming the 1993). Gay and Lesbian Past (Harmondsworth, 1991). Dyer, Richard, The Culture of Queers (London and Davis, Peter, “Men à la Mode,” Genre (March 1995). New York, 2002). Davis, Whitney, Queer Beauty: Sexuality and Aesthetics Dynes, Wayne, Homolexis: A Historical and Cultural from Winkelmann to Freud and Beyond (New York, 2010). Lexicon of Homosexuality, Monograph no. 4, Gay DeCaro, Frank, “Closets are for Clothes,” OUT Academic Union (New York, 1985). (October 1997). Eagleton, Terry, “Grub Street Snob,” review of Fanny D’Emilio, John, Sexual Politics, Sexual Communities: The Hill in Bombay; The Making and Unmaking of John Making of a Homosexual Minority in the United States Cleland by Hal Gladfelder. London Review of Books, vol. 1940–1970 (Chicago and London, 1983). 34, no. 17 (September 13, 2012). Denizet-Lewis, Benoit, “Double Lives on the Down Edwards, Tim, Men in the Mirror: Men’s Fashion, Low,” New York Times Magazine (August 3, 2003). Masculinity and Consumer Culture (London, 1997). Diaman, Tony, “The Search for the Total Man,” Come Ekins, Richard, Male Femaling: A Grounded Theory Out (December 1969 – January 1970). Approach to Cross-Dressing and Sex-Changing (London, 1997). Dickens, Charles, All The Year Round (periodical) (February 28, 1863). Ellis, Havelock, Studies in the Psychology of Sex (New York, 1901), vol. 1, part 4. Dittmar, Linda, “The Straight Goods,” in Deborah

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