THE YEAR IN FASHION

WHO AND WHAT MADE NEWS I THE HOT PARTIES I THE PEOPLE’S CHOICE I THEY SAID IT I IN MEMORIAM

WWDMONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 RON JOHNSON Newsmaker Of the Year After a challenging year, J.C. Penney’s chief executive offi cer Ron Johnson says “the transformation is on track” and “the fun begins in 2013.” That’s when new products, shops and innovations hit the selling fl oors, from Disney to Joe Fresh to Jonathan Adler. For his sweeping reinvention efforts recasting Penney’s image and defying a host of retail conventions in the process, Johnson is the Newsmaker of the Year, as chosen by WWD’s editors. For more, see Year in Fashion, section II. 2 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012 WWD.COM

Dover Street Market to Open in NYC THE BRIEFING BOX laborations with brands rang- By JOELLE DIDERICH The future site of Dover ing from Louis Vuitton to H&M. IN TODAY’S WWD Street Market in New York. She has innovated with tem- PARIS — Retail maverick Rei porary retail concepts, includ- Kawakubo is out to conquer ing scores of “guerrilla” stores another offbeat neighborhood selling Comme des Garçons A pre-fall look in Manhattan with her latest collections from previous sea- from Burberry international branch of Dover sons in cities such as Berlin; Prorsum. Street Market. Warsaw; Ljubljana, Slovenia; Comme des Garçons said Stockholm, Helsinki, Barcelona Friday it has signed a lease for and Singapore. a 20,000-square-foot, seven-sto- In 2001, she teamed with ry emporium at 160 Lexington Milan retailer Carla Sozzani Ave. at 30th Street, in a district to open the 10 Corso Como CHINSEE chockablock with nail parlors Comme des Garçons in Tokyo. and Indian restaurants. In 2004, she opened Dover GEORGE The sprawling unit — Street Market in London, a BY

which mingles Comme’s vari- multibrand store that also PHOTO ous lines with a range of in- included a cafe and a smat- ternational designer brands tering of vintage pieces. At Lucy, the VF Corp.-owned activewear retailer, has unveiled for women and men — is due that time, Dover Street was a new prototype that will serve as the model for stores as to open in December 2013, primarily known for its sur- expansion kicks into gear next year. PAGE 6 Adrian Joffe, chief executive rounding art and antiques officer at Comme des Garçons galleries, or as a cut-through Patek Philippe president Thierry Stern discusses the family- International, told WWD. to nearby Bond Street. Dover owned business’ production and pricing strategies. PAGE 7 The store will be located in an imposing clas- Street Market’s arrival spurred other fashion retail- sical-style building that was formerly home to the ers to open nearby, although the street remains pri- Alice Temperley has opened her first flagship, in London’s New York School of Applied Design for Women marily offices rather than retail. Mayfair district. PAGE 8 and, subsequently, Touro College. Built in 1909, A Tokyo branch opened in Ginza in March of the building has a colonnaded limestone facade this year. and is located in a primarily residential area that In the last few years, Comme de Garçons has With Thursday marking the official opening of Art Basel is a short walk from Gramercy Park. also partnered with Hong Kong retailer I.T on Miami, the evening festivities went off without a hitch. PAGE 9 It is not the first time Kawakubo is stepping into un- I.T Beijing Market in Beijing, and with Japanese charted territory in New York. She opened a boutique department store operator Komatsu on Ginza Condé Nast and Hearst Corp. are going head-to-head to in SoHo in 1983, when it was still largely an industrial Komatsu Market in Tokyo. get a cut of the booming Hispanic market. PAGE 9 neighborhood, and was the first to spy the retail po- Other concepts include Black Comme des Garçons, tential of Chelsea, where she moved the Comme des a “guerrilla” brand launched in 2009 as an antidote Fred Perry has teamed with No Doubt for a new collaboration Garçons store in 1999. to recession, and pop-up Comme des Garçons Pocket referencing the band’s ska and reggae roots. PAGE 11

Starting in the Eighties, Kawakubo revolutionized stores housing the brand’s Play collection, alongside retail by featuring art in her stores and launching col- limited-edition products, wallets and perfumes. FOR A LOOK BACK AT THE YEAR IN LEGS, SEE A SPECIAL REPORT IN TUESDAY’S WWD.

Ivanka Trump Inks Apparel Deal With G-III ON WWD.COM with my footwear, handbags By LISA LOCKWOOD and coats.” PRE-FALL 2013: Jason Wu, Burberry Prorsum, 3.1 Phillip Lim Jeff Goldfarb, director of and more showed for pre-fall. For more, see WWD.com/ NEW YORK — Ivanka Trump strategic planning at G-III, fashion-news. is back in the apparel game. added that they have identi- G-III Apparel Group Ltd., ·· fied a core group of execu- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS has entered a licensing agree- tives who will run the busi- [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. ment with Trump to develop ness at G-III headquarters at WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. sportswear, dresses, suits, suit 512 Seventh Avenue. “We will VOLUME 204, NO. 119. MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, separates, sleepwear, active- build out a showroom that’s Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, wear, jeanswear and intimates. commensurate with what the March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: The collection will be distrib- brand needs. We’ll be aggres- S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. uted to department stores and sive about the rollout. We’ll Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian better specialty stores in the start here and will go interna- Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to U.S., Canada and Mexico be- tional eventually,” he said. P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, ginning in spring 2014. Trump’s various products OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800- 289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label.

Trump, one of the stars of EICHNER are sold in stores and Web sites For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, NBC’s “Celebrity Apprentice,” such as Nordstrom, Macy’s, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless has a growing fashion and STEVE Bloomingdale’s, Belk, Dillard’s, we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine

BY becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on lifestyle brand. She began her Lord & Taylor, Zappos.com and all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all company in 2007 as a fine jew- Piperlime. In addition, they are editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. PHOTO For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints elry collection. Her current featured in her SoHo boutique of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at portfolio includes footwear at 109 Mercer St., which houses www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub. (Mark Fisher Footwear); hand- all her brands. com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services I’ll be working closely that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at bags (Mondani Handbags) and G-III, whose revenue is P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE outerwear (Fleet Street Ltd.), $1.29 billion, manufactures and FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER as well as new deals for sun- with G-III and will distributes dresses, sportswear, UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR glasses (B. Robinson) and fra- swimwear, beachwear and CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A grance (Parlux) that launch in be involved in all women’s suits, as well as hand- SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. spring 2013. bags and luggage under its In October, she severed her decisions. They have a own brands, licensed brands agreement with HMX Group, and private label. Its own which was licensed to make brands include Vilebrequin, the women’s ready-to-wear. great infrastructure to Andrew Marc, Marc New York That line was introduced to and Marc Moto. Its licensed retailers this spring and was support the growth. brands include Calvin Klein, sold in stores such as Lord Sean John, Kenneth Cole, Cole & Taylor, Macy’s, Nordstrom, — IVANKA TRUMP Haan, Jessica Simpson and The Bay, Von Maur and Belk. Vince Camuto. “We are very excited to part- a very large company, yet nimble Trump said she is working on ner with Ivanka Trump on this as though they’re quite smaller. an e-commerce site, as well as inspiring collection of women’s We do share each other’s vision of deals for several new product apparel,” said Morris Goldfarb, the future of my brand.” categories. But becoming a fash- chairman and chief executive of- Trump said it was too soon ion mogul takes up only part of ficer of G-III. to discuss where the line will her day. She continues to work Asked why she chose G-III, be manufactured and the price at her father Donald’s Trump Trump told WWD, “They’re really points. “I’ll be working closely Organization, where she is ex- just best in class. The quality of with G-III and will be involved in ecutive vice president of devel- their execution at the price points all decisions. They have a great opment and acquisitions, and is I’m looking to sell my apparel cat- infrastructure to support the charged with the domestic and egory was second to none. I love growth,” she said. global expansion of the company’s that they’re a significant company She said the price points for real estate footprint. “It keeps me in terms of size and scale. They’re the apparel “will be ·· consistent busy. It’s a lot of fun,” she added.

4 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012

Jason Wu Burberry Prorsum 3.1 Phillip Lim

Burberry Prorsum: Christopher Bailey 3.1 Phillip Lim: There was a renegade playfully interpreted signature spirit to Phillip Lim’s latest 3.1 Burberry Prorsum silhouettes and collection, inspired by motorcycle colors with striking embellishments and culture and New York street gangs new patterns. A cropped aviator jacket of the late 18th century. Lim deftly Pre-Fall 2013 with bulky sleeves was juxtaposed worked traditional moto style into his with an exquisite jeweled skirt, while leather jackets and slim pants with Jason Wu: It was difficult to find Wu’s ladylike touch. a chevron knit top was shown with a quilted knees, while demonstrating the a September issue of a fashion He also “wanted to continue the cool grommeted leather skirt. Bailey theme more softly with other looks: a magazine without a page or two sexier mood that I started in spring.” also mixed fabrics for some terrific landscape-printed silk chiffon tunic devoted to Antonio Lopez, whose Multicolored panels of paper-thin eel outerwear pieces, including one had a leather banded collar and an fashion illustrations and photographs skin were painstakingly darted into a tailored coat, its top in beige cashmere elongated jacket was done in a spongy from the Seventies were celebrated curvy halter dress, a leather and jersey and bottom in an abstract dégradé techno jersey, with phoenix wings in a recent Rizzoli book. Jason Wu, T-shirt and a matching jacket and skirt. printed calfskin. embroidered on its sleeves. too, was drawn to Lopez’s colorful That level of production muscle and The men’s wear, which featured brand of retro fab, using it to infuse luxury was echoed in quilted leather elegant double-breasted coats, slim-fit Theyskens’ Theory: Olivier Theyskens has his collection with good-time glamour and chevron mink coats; both the mink pants and T-shirts with whimsical motifs his “essentials” down to a science at fit for the latter-day Jerry Halls and and the eel-skin looks could be worn (a Beefeater, an English bobby) provided Theyskens’ Theory, all which were well Grace Joneses of the world, but with with matching bags. a great counterpart. addressed for pre-fall. But there was a

w10a004(5);5.indd 4 12/7/12 7:02 PM 12072012190406 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012 5 WWD.COM

Theyskens’ Theory Zero + Maria Cornejo St. John

Rachel Zoe

For more pre-Fall coverage, see WWD.com/ fashion-news. A ell

more polished and deliberate side silk dresses, a collection staple, with Other materials included black D r here, too, with what Theyskens called a high-low hemline and blurry prints leather that trimmed a knit biker A S

“matchy looks all in the same fabric.” of dancers. “This woman is a force,” jacket and double-face cashmere to A For example, an ivory tailored said Cornejo, gesturing to the mix for a cobalt blue belted coat; the Don

jacket tucked into a matching silk of voluminous coats, trim-bodice pieces paired nicely with the more D n

skirt gave the impression of a single dresses and pleated skirts. She also traditional looks. A elongated blazer. Meanwhile, a series worked more eveningwear into the ccone of prints on silk T-shirts, midlength mix, including a gown with a solid Rachel Zoe: Rachel Zoe evolved her A nn A i

dresses and matching pants were top and striped skirt that played on collection beyond Seventies glam to inspired by the scaffolding one finds the transparency trend. include more tomboyish street-chic MAS everywhere in New York City these looks. While those printed chiffon tho days, including around the Theory St. John: The fluorescent light maxiskirts and lean pantsuits were ee, showroom on Little West 12th Street. sculptures of artist Dan Flavin still there, Zoe upped the assortment S

informed St. John’s latest color story. of tough leather pieces and added chin Zero + Maria Cornejo: The idea of Senior vice president and design metallic tweeds for a touch of subtle

movement and discipline intertwined director Greg Myler kept his shapes shimmer. Her signature chiffon george

came to Maria Cornejo after architectural in nature, the bright blouses took on an edgier appeal by watching a dance exhibition in Paris. orange tunic and matching pull-on when layered under a black leather

Thus she updated her airy draped pants in wool knit a good example. minidress or a lace peplum top. photoS

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is less than 10 percent of the business, with the brand sold at around 400 gyms Lucy’s Prototype Sets Path for Future and fitness studios. Lucy has begun to pick up bigger wholesale accounts such brand has focused on merchan- as REI, where it launched in the spring. By RACHEL BROWN dising outfits together because it “We’re not envisioning that Athleta and has found customers, who regu- Lululemon will have that as part of their LUCY’S PAST, present and fu- larly spend at least 30 minutes strategy, so that gives us an opportunity ture have come together in shopping at a Lucy store, like to fill in some of that white space more Burlingame, Calif., where the to wear ensembles of matching quickly,” said Bryden. VF Corp.-owned activewear re- tops, bottoms and jackets. Dzedzy VF purchased Lucy in 2007 with the tailer opened its first store in said, “She’ll have an easier time aim, expressed in WWD in August of that 2001 and has unveiled a new seeing the product and under- year, of taking it from a 50-unit chain prototype that will serve as the standing how it goes together.” generating $57 million in revenues to a model for stores as expansion If any specific merchandise 250-unit chain generating $350 million kicks into gear next year. piece is spotlighted in the pro- in 10 years. While the women’s active- After a tumultuous period for totype, it is pants. Already the wear segment has ballooned since then Lucy that saw executive shifts strongest item in Lucy’s mer- as evidenced by the stratospheric growth and a scaling back of ambitious chandise arsenal accounting for of Lululemon, Lucy has largely remained store rollout plans VF had when 40 to 45 percent of sales, pants stagnant. Bryden wouldn’t discuss Lucy’s it acquired the company, presi- have moved from the wall to the current revenues, but, judging by its dent Mark Bryden views the center of the store to further so- store base of 57 units, only seven more prototype as an important step lidify their position at the heart of than it had five years ago, the retailer so toward reigniting the brand. Lucy’s merchandise universe. “It far appears to not have lived up to VF’s “Through the years of owner- The new Lucy prototype. really underscores how much we early expectations. ship, it may have drifted off of believe in our pants,” said Dzedzy. Bryden’s task is to get Lucy, which was the original intent. Our vision is Pants are priced mostly from started by Nike alum Sue Levin in 1999, really to bring Lucy back as a premium, ciousness,” said Dawn Dzedzy, director of $89 to $108, with the exception of capri on the move again. Signs are emerging women’s activewear brand in the mar- brand marketing at Lucy. “We achieved styles that are $69. Tops are priced pre- that that’s starting to happen. “If you ketplace and recenter ourselves back to that with the fixture package, and then dominantly from $59 to $89, and outer- look at average dollar sales, our conver- where it was always envisioned by the we also really wanted to reiterate that wear from $128 to $198. Across Lucy’s sion, our units per transaction, we would founders,” said Bryden, who joined Lucy sense of welcoming and social commu- merchandise, yoga is the number-one say we are satisfied with all those,” said after former president Shaz Kahng de- nity that we’re known for at Lucy.” category, followed by explore. Run and Bryden. “What we need to do is bring parted last December. In Lucy stores, customers tend to con- train, at roughly the same size in sales, more people through the doors.” Working with the New York-based gregate at the dressing rooms, and Lucy round out Lucy’s merchandise assort- To help boost traffic, Bryden has set Rockwell Group, Lucy honed in on key paid close attention to getting them right. ment. There are nearly 350 stockkeeping out to remodel 70 percent of its stores qualities of the brand — it’s classic, open, Dzedzy explained Lucy created a com- units at a Lucy store. during the next two years. On top of the lively, warm and emphasizes thoughtful munal dressing room area with flattering “The person who knows us for yoga, remodeling, Lucy anticipates adding design — which it wanted to reflect in the lighting and adjustable mirrors where we’d like to introduce her to other cat- 10 stores next year. The new stores will stores. In order to do that, the updated customers can hang out and enjoy trying egories as well,” said Dzedzy. Added open in markets without Lucy units in store design ripped away layers (gone are on activewear, which can sometimes be Bryden, “If we’re successful in really the Midwest, where the company has a canopies over the fixtures, an awning on an intimidating experience. “We wanted bringing Lucy back to the market the way small presence compared to the coasts, as the facade, and heavy, dark wood) that to make sure the lighting was good be- it was always intended and performance well as existing markets in the Midwest, distracted from the merchandise. In its cause how many times have you gone is the key active message around that, Northern California and the Northeast. place are fixtures of light maple wood and into a fitting room, and you just want to the other category products will grow. “We’re going to open new doors next powder-coated steel, and display tables in jump out the window because the light- That would be train, run. I would say year, bring them to life, remodel, expand picnic and honeycomb varieties that rein- ing is horrible?” she asked. that the explore side by default would be into wholesale and relaunch our Web site. force the store as a gathering place. Although the store’s assortment is di- smaller as a percentage.” So, next year will have growth, but it is real- “What we wanted to do was lighten vided by Lucy’s activewear apparel cat- Outside of its own stores, Bryden is ly about proving the concept,” said Bryden, the fixtures up so that the clothes them- egories of yoga, run, train and explore, a vocal proponent of Lucy as a whole- adding that “2014 and beyond should be a selves are what bring the color and viva- a catch-all outdoor lifestyle category, the sale activewear brand. Today, wholesale significant acceleration of the plan.” India FDI Clears Final Hurdle Delta Galil Buys LittleMissMatched Brand He further noted that both Delta of India, observed while pointing out By KARYN MONGET and LittleMissMatched share syner- By MAYU SAINI that the decision would help economic gies in the sock realm. Sixty percent growth. ASSOCHAM is the umbrella body DELTA GALIL USA, a subsidiary of of LittleMissMatched’s business is NEW DELHI — After a politically of chambers of commerce in India. Israel-baased Delta Galil Industries centered in hosiery, socks and acces- charged debate for the last two days in The government of Prime Minister Ltd., has acquired the trademarks of sories. In addition to underwear, Delta the upper house of Parliament, the Rajya Manmohan Singh, which has been LittleMissMatched, a specialist of socks produces socks for men and women for Sabha, a final vote Friday afternoon repeatedly described as “indolent,” and apparel for kids. three licensees: Converse, Wilson and made the mandate on foreign direct in- “indecisive” and “flip-flopping on key A purchase price was not available, Kenneth Cole. vestment in retail clear: the debate is issues,” has finally taken a stand and but combined annual retail and whole- Andrew Arguiarro, vice president of over and it’s time to get down to business. stuck to it, even under extreme pres- sale revenues for LittleMissMatched are licensing and sales at LittleMissMatched, Global retailers now will be able to sure. Analysts commented that the in excess of $20 million, according to in- said the brand has a strong retail pres- own 51 percent of multibrand retailers, government’s insistence on FDI in mul- dustry estimates. ence in key channels of distribution. giving them a piece of India’s $500 bil- tibrand retail might be a ploy to cover The LittleMissMatched brand was “We have 13 LittleMissMatched stores, lion retail market. up the charges of corruption that have founded in 2003 as a sock resource that one in downtown Orlando and another The win came by a relatively small been coming up against it, but business specialized in three pairs of mismatched in downtown Anaheim, [near Disney], margin: 123 votes to 109 with nine ab- people and retailers are hopeful that socks in a package, an amusing merchan- as well as a store on Fifth Avenue in stentions. the situation will dising twist that made wearing socks fun Manhattan and one in Grand Central The victory came bode well for the for kids. The brand quickly grew into ap- Station, with the rest in shopping malls even though the rul- economy, one that parel for girls, followed by several licens- across the U.S. Our international pres- ing party does not will help employ- ees including accessories, bedding, and ence includes a store in Tokyo and an- have a majority in the 123-109 ment as well as help underwear and bras for girls that were other in Santiago, Chile,” said Arguiarro, Rajya Sabha. Events fight inflation and licensed to Delta to produce. “The brand is also sold at Toys ’R Us, VOTING TALLY OVER FDI began to turn in favor bring in valuable Isaac Dabah, chief executive officer FAO Schwartz, Michael’s [arts and crafts IN INDIA’S RAJYA SABHA. of the ruling coali- know-how and high- of Delta Galil Industries, said plans are chain], and on QVC since 2009. QVC has tion when Kumari er standards. “Wal- to expand the label into a lifestyle brand been great for the brand because custom- Mayawati, who heads Mart went to China with a focus on products for babies and ers often buy for their granddaughter, the Bahujan Samaj Party, said her party 20 years ago, and is now 5 percent of kids, and eventually branch out into the their daughter and for themselves.” would vote for FDI. Further support the market in China. It procures 60 per- junior market. Dabah noted there are no immediate came when the Samajwadi Party said it cent of the global procurement from “LittleMissMatched was really fo- plans for international expansion. would abstain from voting. China, so China benefits the most,” Law cused on socks, with 35 percent of the “For now, we are focusing on the U.S. Anand Sharma, Commerce Minister, Minister Ashwani Kumar said during business in apparel. We can help them market,” he said. said outside Parliament, on Friday: the debate in the Rajya Sabha. grow,” said Dabah. “We already have This marks Delta’s third acquisition “This is an elected government. It has But some economists have warned the the [licensed] Maidenform brand in this year. the mandate to rule. We had got a vic- new FDI rules have conditions that could kids’ intimates, so this will allow us In July, Delta Galil Industries acquired tory in the Lok Sabha [lower house] and be too stringent to really bring significant to have a much bigger presence in the German underwear maker Schiesser AG it was a decisive victory as today in the benefits. Global retailers can only invest kids market.” for an estimated $85 million. In June, Rajya Sabha. In the following week we in cities with a population of more than Dabah said a big push will be made Delta purchased the assets, inventory will bring more financial legislation on one million, which brings the target cit- into apparel, another area the brand has and brand name of KN Karen Neuburger economic reforms.” ies to a shortlist of 54. In addition, state given a whimsical touch with reversible from CIT for $4 million. “This is a great opportunity for gov- government can decide whether they jackets, skirts, hoodies and pants. Annual sales projections for 2013 for ernment to push much-needed reforms want overseas retailers to set up in their “The idea is to grow the business into the Tel Aviv-based maker of performance which have been pending and hurting states. Only 20 have said yes to this so far. an apparel brand that is a little bit cool,” innerwear and activewear company are the growth of the nation,” D. S. Rawat, Single-brand retailers, which are now said Dabah, noting that categories being about 12 percent above 2012 estimates, secretary general of The Associated allowed to have 100 percent FDI, must considered in the future include swim- including revenues next year of $910 mil- Chambers of Commerce and Industry source 30 percent from within India. wear and outerwear. lion to $920 million. WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012 7 Thierry Stern accessories

Q&A would you ever ramp up production? T.S.: We are increasing production, but we are not willing to increase a lot. Next year, we won’t be increasing [our inventory], Patek Philippe’s Thierry Stern and when I increase, it’s at maximum by 2 percent. More than 2 percent, we know FIRMLY INDEPENDENT, the family-run have a lot of gray dials. Yo u have to bring that quality will be affected. I prefer to in- Patek Philippe has been a leader in the your own ideas while respecting the brand. crease the level of complexity of the watch. watchmaking industry since its inception in 1839. With its expertly crafted time- WWD: What else have you developed that WWD: How about the price? Your entry pieces, obsessive attention to detail and you consider pushing the envelope? price is around $18,000. Will you make laser focus on its history, the company T.S.: Another example of something that more entry-level-priced watches, or will makes what many regard today as the fin- was very aggressive was to make a watch you make more higher-priced pieces? est watch in the world. of steel and diamonds. When we T.S.: I will increase the price but also Thierry Stern, Patek’s president, started, people said, “Are you crazy maintain entry prices. Distributors are shared with WWD his family’s com- putting diamonds on steel?” But always asking us to produce a new watch mitment to remaining a private com- today it works very well. Another for entry prices. Lowering the price is pany, how the brand learned to lis- thing we did is we came back not easy. Yo u have to make it out of steel ladies’ watches because she understands ten to women and why the adage with something old like a skel- with a simple movement. Our cheap- the market. She has the know-how and “less is more,” turns out to be eton watch — it’s very tradi- est movements are $18,000 to $22,000. I that’s really important. She saw that the true — at least in Patek’s case. tional. We mixed it with the should try to make it even lower but it’s trend now for ladies is that they are look- — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD know-how of engraving, for not easy. I would never jeopardize the ing for a daily watch without diamonds. example, and we added a quality for the price, that’s for sure. That’s really a big change. WWD: After so many years in new case. It’s about mixing the business, what makes Patek something classical and new. WWD: There has been more demand for WWD: Are you targeting any regions in Philippe so well-regarded? complications in women’s watches. Why? particular for broader expansion? Thierry Stern: Patek Philippe is WWD: How has technology in- T.S.: Today we have a lot of women all T.S.: No. We try to have a balance. If the fam- strong because we are maintaining fluenced Patek? over the world asking for complications. ily wasn’t controlling the company, Patek the same strategy. Yo u still need to T.S.: New technology has allowed It started in Asia. I think it started with would sell 80 percent of our watches in provide the best watch in the world, me to produce parts that did their husbands or boyfriends, and there’s Asia, just like everybody else does. I try to to develop them, fabricate them, but not exist in the past. Ultimately, also a lot of passion in Asia. They are al- have a balance between Europe, Asia, the you also need something new. People though, I do not have to reinvent ways looking at their watches and talk- States and the Middle East. Yo u need to be expect that. With every step of a Patek. People don’t expect that ing about them. It took about 10 years for strong everywhere. In 2008, in the States, generation or a family business, A Patek Philippe from me, and why should I? I’m us to come to this market because of the we had a drop of 50 percent, but we were you need to develop new blood and timepiece. not willing to change something product limitations and also the size of strong in Asia and the Middle East, so it was some new ideas. But you should that is working very well. We the watch. As women gravitated toward fine Now, we’ve recovered. That’s why I’m not go too far. Retailers and customers have the trust of the client. We are enjoy- larger watches, it became easier to make not pushing expansion in only China like don’t expect that from Patek. ing it. Yo u have to enjoy what you do, oth- more complicated movements. everybody. But don’t forget, I only produce erwise I would sell the company. about 50,000 pieces. If I was Rolex with 10 WWD: How has your vision influenced the WWD: A lot of men’s watch brands will million watches, for sure I’d need to go to family business? What newness have you WWD: Talk about the decision to remain a just shrink the size of their watch and China to push it, but it’s not the case. brought to the brand? private company after all of these years. add diamonds and call it a women’s T.S.: The line is still narrow when it T.S.: We certainly won’t go public because watch. How did Patek make a women’s WWD: What can we expect from Patek in comes to designing something new. When then we will lose our independence. That watch for a woman? the near term? I say bring something new, it’s to bring means we will not be able to choose what T.S.: At first we did that, too, but then T.S.: My goal in the future is to maintain new technology and new designs, but I’ll we think is right or what we love to do. women came to us and said: “Hey, we the after-sale service. This is really the key never do something crazy. When I started, I We definitely don’t like that. are not dumb. Don’t reduce the size of a for Patek Philippe. It’s expensive to buy added some gray dials. That never existed, men’s watch and add some diamonds.” a Patek. If you agree to pay that money, I and my father did not agree, but today we WWD: Patek makes so few watches a year, My wife, Sandrine, had to take over the need to be there if you have a problem. Stella Luna Expands Reach With Paris Store Abboud Exits Printemps and Galeries Lafayette. By LAURE GUILBAULT Stella Luna is part of Stella International Holdings Ltd., whose main business is contract manufacturing. It de Grisogono PARIS — Chinese shoe brand Stella Luna opened its first produces around 55 million pairs of shoes a year, accord- store in Paris on Saturday, gaining a toehold for future ing to Chi, with a client list including Prada and Marc by European expansion. Marc Jacobs. By DAVID MOIN The 870-square-foot shop is located at 181 Boulevard Saint- In 2006, the company started a retail division that today Germain, close to Berluti, Etro and Ralph Lauren’s boutiques. includes the Stella Luna brand, the junior shoe brand NICOLAS ABBOUD, chief executive officer The concept is in line with the brand’s other stores in What For and the men’s of de Grisogono, has suddenly left his post, Asia. “The concept is a con- shoe brand JKJY. According after only about six months on the job. temporary museum with a Wedges from the Stephen Chi to Chi, there is no conflict Fawaz Gruosi, creative director and found- little French touch to it,” Stella Luna spring of interest. “A lot of brands er of the 20-year-old fine jewelry and time- Stephen Chi, chief executive collection. are asking for our support piece brand, continues with the company. officer and creative direc- and guidance [to tap the Earlier this year, Gruosi sold a majority stake tor of Stella Luna, said. “We Chinese market],” he said. in the business to a group of investors, which believe shoes are like an art Chi said he expects the put the company on firmer financial footing and should be presented group to post sales of around and installed Abboud as ceo in the spring. like art pieces.” $1.6 billion in 2012, with the “We are looking for a new ceo,” Gruosi Designed by the English retail division representing told WWD. “Nicolas left because of a family architect Jamie Fobert, around $130 million. Chi said problem.” who conceived the new sales for the retail division He said Abboud’s last day was Friday, Versace boutique in New have been growing at an av- and that his family lives in Paris, whereas York’s SoHo district, the erage rate of 30 percent in de Grisogono is based in Geneva. store has purple velvet 2011 and 2012, adding that Gruosi was instrumental in recruiting SGURA GIAMPAOLO chairs, original wood floors, he is projecting double-digit Abboud. The company said Abboud’s de- molding on the ceiling and growth in 2013. parture was unrelated to his strategy for the

a VIP room. PHOTOS BY Today, Stella Luna counts company and not a decision by the board. Around 150 pairs of shoes around 220 doors in China and Abboud is looking for another job in Paris. are presented in the store. Ballerina flats retail at 235 euros, South East Asia and the Middle East, including a mix of flag- During his short tenure, Abboud started or $304 at current exchange, and a pair of slippers with studs ships, stand-alone stores and department stores. an extensive revamp of the company, in is priced at 425 euros, or $550. “As we learn more about the Stella Luna positions itself as an affordable luxury brand. collaboration with Gruosi, according to the Parisian market, we will have specific collections and prob- “If you really look at competitors, they are either more ex- company. He led the formation of “a con- ably a capsule collection,” Chi said. pensive or mass market. There is nobody in between,” Chi cise development strategy” involving such The flagship marks the first step of the brand’s expansion noted. “Our main customers are affluent women of the age elements as a revision of the collections into Europe. “Paris is the center of fashion,” said Chi. “ Yo u group between 30 and 35, with good taste.” accompanied by an optimization of the have to do this place right. If we can do a good job in Paris, we To bolster its launch in Paris, there will be an ad cam- stock, a consolidation of the distribution can do well everywhere else.” paign with visuals created by Atelier Franck Durand and network and a restructuring of finances, In the next three to four years, Chi plans to open addi- photographed by Giampaolo Sgura. It is set to hit key French the company said. However, Abboud wasn’t tional stores on the French capital’s Right Bank, as well weeklies and monthlies focusing on fashion issues, starting with the company long enough to have had as in London, Milan and possibly Venice. In the same time in February. He noted the brand is not targeting Chinese significant impact. frame, the company is targeting distribution in around 20 tourists visiting Paris. “They have plenty of stores back in Gruosi said de Grisogono’s business has doors in France in department stores such as Le Bon Marché, China,” Chi noted. been picking up this year. 8 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012 WWD.COM Alice Temperley Opens London Flagship tree floor lamp on the second floor, antique mirrors and vin- tage chandeliers. Dolls in the shape of rabbits and cats made by the English artist Alice-Mary Lynch from leftover Temperley textiles hang in glass cases on the walls, while objects such as a deco- rative backgammon board by Alexandra Llewellyn Designs sits atop a coffee table upstairs. “I wanted the store to have a gentle, welcoming feel,” said Temperley during a walk- Looks around the new store. through. “And I want the space to have a heritage feel, but also collections, as well as the de- grow and evolve.” By SAMANTHA CONTI signer’s collaboration with The store features parquet Barbour. There’s a bridal wear floors and a dark, hand-painted LONDON — Alice Temperley salon on the first floor, while a wooden ceiling on the first floor. has opened her first flagship, in new line of printed silk pajamas Hand-painted screens with fly- the former Juicy Couture space and kimono-style dressing gowns ing birds will soon adorn some on Bruton Street in Mayfair, will also be stocked at the store. of the walls. not far from Stella McCartney, Temperley’s first store, in The store is set to generate Matthew Williamson and Diane Notting Hill, will continue to upward of 2 million pounds, von Furstenberg. trade, but will be focused on or $3.22 million at current ex- The new Temperley London evening and bridal wear. change, in the first year. store has 2,500 square feet of The shop floor features pol- Next up for Temperley is a retail space on the ground and ished brass Art Deco-style cloth- store at The Gate Mall in Qatar, first floors while the Georgian ing rails, fixtures and details while the brand’s e-commerce building’s upper levels house inspired by vintage birdcages, site will relaunch in February. commercial, e-commerce and and is packed with antiques the Temperley said she is also press offices. designer sourced herself and scouting a site for a New York The new store stocks the sig- designs by her arty friends. flagship, which would ideally nature and Alice By Temperley There’s a Seventies palm open by 2014. K.I.D.S. Dinner Raises $800,000 NEWARK MAYOR Cory Booker friends pulled together to give the make it real, one child at a time.” mesmerized the crowd as the key- young man a home and an educa- The dinner, which raised $800,000 note speaker at the 27th annual tion. Without those people, his fa- for the charity, also honored chil- Kids in Distressed Situations dinner ther would not have survived and dren’s wear manufacturer Kahn at Cipriani 42nd Street in New York Booker would not have been able to Lucas and the Army & Air Force Thursday night. follow his own path. Exchange Service as Retailer of the Booker, who accepted an award “The biggest thing you can do Year. The Toy Industry Foundation for Newark Now, a charity that every day is a small act of kind- was singled out as Donor Partner. helps residents transform their ness,” he said, urging everyone to Olympic gold medal gymnast Jordyn neighborhoods, related how his become “agents of change.” He said Wieber was the special guest emcee father grew up poor in North Martin Luther King Jr.’s dream of and the Broadway Youth Ensemble Cory Booker with Carolina and his mother was un- finding the promised land is “not provided the entertainment. television host able to raise him so strangers and dead. We have the potential to — JEAN E. PALMIERI Wendy Williams.

craftsmanship as a core value to trans- Italian recruitment company operating Italian Brands’ Export Challenge mit to customers round the globe. The across Italy, Poland, China and Brazil. Italy-based company, which distributes According to Altomonte, who valued He noticed that in Florence, Japanese its cashmere-centered products in 54 Brazil’s luxury market at $2.3 billion, the By ALESSANDRA TURRA tourists are those spending more in countries, counts the U.S. as its main country’s “middle class is growing a lot Ferragamo’s stores, while Americans, market, accounting for 30 percent of its and the salaries are high, so in the coun- FLORENCE — Given stagnating domes- who tend to spend a lot on hotels and res- total business. try there is a huge potential at the cus- tic demand, Italian luxury companies are taurants, don’t make so many purchases Ferragamo and Cucinelli are among tomer’s level,” she said, adding that São developing aggressive strategies to ex- because the products’ price difference in the listed companies, including Luxottica Paulo, which currently counts 13 high- pand abroad, as highlighted by a number Italy and in the U.S. is not relevant. and Tod’s, which determined the success end shopping malls, will feature 20 by of the fashion industry’s top players at According to Norsa, on the other of Italian luxury within the financial the end of 2014. the Milano Fashion Global Summit held hand, Brazil has strong potential, even if luxury landscape this year, according to In addition, the country’s economy here Tuesday. it’s currently not so relevant due to high Merrill Lynch. will be boosted in the short term by two According to data provided by Mario import taxes, which spike prices, making “In the last 12 months, the Italian global sporting events, the FIFA World Boselli, president of Italy’s Chamber of them unappealing to Brazilian custom- luxury business, considered in terms of Cup in 2014 and the Rio 2016 Olympic Fashion, sales of fashion and textiles ers, who tend to buy European luxury listed brands, registered the best trad- Games. dropped 6.3 percent in the first half in products in the U.S. or in Europe. ing performances on the global stock Diesel is among the fashion labels Italy. On the other hand, in the January- Norsa also highlighted the impor- exchange,” said Paola Durante, Merrill banking on the South American country. August period, exports were up 3.3 per- tance of attracting more tourists in Italy Lynch investment banking managing di- According to its founder Renzo Rosso, cent. In particular, Italian companies’ in order to boost the national luxury sec- rector. According to the American bank, who connected via video conferencing shipments to the U.S. posted an 18 per- tor’s business. “The growth in Europe is Italian luxury companies excelled due from the company’s headquarters in cent increase, and the country’s exports driven by the flow of customers coming to three factors: “strong brand heritage, Italy’s Veneto region, the brand, which to Japan and Brazil jumped 20 and 21 from Asia and South America,” he said, deep production expertise and unique posted revenues of 15 million euros, or percent, respectively, even if the South adding that Ferragamo will also keep Italian lifestyle.” $19 million at current exchange, in Brazil American country accounts for only 2 investing on its digital strategy because Durante released Merrill Lynch’s in 2012, expects to reach sales of 27 mil- percent of Italy’s exports. Speakers at “the Web has enormous potential for lux- macro estimates for 2013. The U.S. econ- lion euros, or $35 million, in the region the summit focused on the U.S., Brazil ury companies both in terms of sales and omy, which is predicted to grow 1.5 per- by the end of 2013. and Japan. communication.” cent compared with 2012, is expected to In order to win the Brazilian chal- “The U.S. represents our first mar- A huge focus on quality and the right report a modest slowdown; Italy and the lenge, “European brands must ‘tropi- ket also from a cultural point of view balance between innovation and tradi- euro zone are forecast to register a 1 and calize’ to reach Brazilian customers,” and in 2012 it performed even better tion are winning means to face the chal- a 0.4 percent contraction, respectively, suggested Monica Mendes, chairman of than what we expected,” said Salvatore lenges of the actual market, according to and China’s gross domestic product is São Paulo-based fashion public relations Ferragamo’s chief executive officer Brunello Cucinelli, chairman and found- expected to post an 8.1 percent growth. agency Monica Mendes Communications. Michele Norsa, who was more skepti- er of the namesake luxury firm. Even if no estimates were provided “Brazilians are accustomed to luxury cal about future opportunities in Japan. “The world is fascinated by the Italian for the growth of the Brazilian mar- products; they have already bought high- “Japan is a mature market with high prof- lifestyle and, if we keep producing ar- ket in future years, it appears as one of end goods abroad, so European compa- it margins, but currently there are no in- tisanal and exclusive products, Italian the most promising for Italian luxury nies must listen to what domestic con- ternal investments which could stimulate companies won’t have any problem in brands, said Chiara Altomonte, general sumers want and shouldn’t hire foreign domestic consumption.” facing the future,” he said, pointing at manager at Consea Executive Search, an buyers for their stores in the country.” THE BOLDFACERS: A bevy of big names, like Karl Lagerfeld, turned out for Babeth Djian’s benefit for Rwandan children. WWD STYLE PAGE 10 PHOTO BY LEXIE MORELAND

Scene Stealers

MIAMI BEACH — This city has been taken over, officially. With Thursday marking the official opening of Art Basel, the evening festivities went off without a hitch, including amfAR’s Miami Beach Inspiration Party, seen here. For more, see page 10.

acknowledgement of the in some top markets; Cosmo Hilaria Thomas, a yoga instructor magazine reporter. They talked MEMO PAD increasing value of Hispanics to for Latinas has a 545,000 and Alec Baldwin’s wife, are and talked while Blaine’s advertisers; their buying power circulation target, with the contributing. — ERIK MAZA companion sat ignored, playing IT WORKED FOR OBAMA: Condé is estimated to reach $1.2 majority sent to subscribers. with her phone. Finally, the Nast and Hearst Corp. are going trillion this year. “The reason Glam has a narrow focus — MAGIC FOOD: David Blaine was at interview ended, and Blaine, head-to-head to get a cut of advertisers are so interested beauty, whose marketers are Bon Appétit’s fund-raiser for scooping up his original date, the booming Hispanic market. now is because the market and big ad spenders. “Imagine if Sandy relief efforts last week at took off. He left without bidding Glamour is poly-bagging with its the consumer are booming,” Allure and Latina magazines 4 Times Square. The magazine on a single item. The starting April issue a new supplement, Wackermann said. had a child together,” had organized an auction of bid for some of them was $75. the digest-size Glam Belleza For publishers, the Wackermann said. From reader-submitted Instagrams While all for a good cause, Latina, or Latin Beauty, with supplements are a huge looking at focus groups and and convinced well-known New another main focus on Tuesday a quarterly frequency aimed advertising opportunity. studies, Wackermann came to Yorkers — Rachel Roy, Lela Rose, was Kluger. at its self-described Latina Ads sold against Glam will the conclusion it’s the subject Hannah Bronfman — to bid on Said Rose, “Feed me ABC subscribers. Hearst had also help shore up declines that most interests Hispanic images that had been initially Kitchen, and I don’t care what already branched out with at the flagship, which finished women. “She’s almost twice as collected for its new marketing it is, I’m there. But yes, there’s Cosmopolitan for Latinas in the year 4 percent down. Ditto likely to buy color cosmetics, campaign. Proceeds are to go to an added bonus that I get to do May as a biannual, but it’s going for Cosmo, which is down twice as likely to be a fragrance the Red Cross. my part, too.” quarterly in 2013, with the same nearly 6 percent. consumer,” he said. “Beauty Blaine, famous for his “I am here because I am on-sale dates as Glam. People en Español and celebrity are her two top TV specials as well as his such a huge supporter of To create a magazine continues to be a juggernaut interests.” wandering eye, showed up Dan’s,” said Roy. “I’m a bit of catering to Hispanic women is a at the otherwise advertising- Glam will be edited by sleepy-eyed, unshaven, in the a foodie. I’m also pretty much natural move, given the shifts in challenged Time Inc., up 11 Veronica Chambers, a frequent arms of a twentysomething a sucker for anyone who has a the United States’ demographic percent in ad pages year-to-year, contributor and author of waifish woman. The magician heart and uses it for good.” makeup. Time Inc.’s People en according to Media Industry the book “Black Women manqué paid his respects to Dan Roy’s hurricane experience Español and Latina magazine Newsletter. Launched a year and Success,” though the Kluger, the ABC Kitchen chef was mild — she only lost power got there first with launches later, the monthly Latina, owned supplement will share staff who cohosted with publisher at her Chelsea apartment. more than 15 years ago. Condé by Latina Media Ventures, with Glamour, including Pamela Drucker Mann — Blaine’s “The second I heard I could and Hearst are playing catch- doesn’t have as many ad pages art director Sarah Vinas. The a regular at the Union Square go back to my apartment, I got in up. “The goal is to sit atop of — about 680 to People’s 1,055 — magazine will be written in restaurant. He gobbled some the car and went to ABC and they the pyramid,” said Glamour and is flat over last year. Spanglish, a combination of finger food and agreed to were just getting back on their publisher Bill Wackermann. Glam has a 250,000 rate base, (mostly) English and Spanish. one interview with another feet. I went there before I went The supplements are an with a newsstand presence Designer Narciso Rodriguez and young woman, a New York home,” Roy said. — E.M. 10 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012 FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE WWD.com/eye. Love Note “WHAT IS that? Carnal Flower? It smells heavenly in here,” one guest, with a particularly discerning nose, wondered aloud while plopped down on a citron armchair in Mark Lee’s lofty prewar penthouse on Thursday night. Considering the occasion, a Barneys New York-thrown dinner toasting master perfumer The Misshapes DJ at the Frédéric Malle on his decade-long Armani Jeans store opening. Lily Kwong tenure with the retailer, the in Altuzarra ideal scene-setter had to be the Daniella Vitale and at amfAR’s ambrosial scent, Malle’s best- Irene Neuwirth James Goldstein at Miami Beach selling eau. Terry Richardson at OhWow’s amfAR’s Miami Beach Inspiration Brand devotees shuffled It Ain’t Fair after party. Inspiration party. party. around the Chelsea abode,

nibbling on the passed canapés LEXIE MORELAND — foie gras on brioche rounds, The Misshapes at the Armani mushroom crostinis with Jeans store opening. rosemary aioli and grilled PHOTOS BY artichokes wrapped in pancetta. Some sat around a trio of cocktail tables, slabs of selenite and teak, atop which rested bowls of bite- size gougères. “Something like eye this,” Irene Neuwirth said speaking to her own olfactory proclivities. “Something that’s not too sweet. STEVE EICHNER I like something that’s a little Frédéric Malle more masculine.” Fragrance and Mark Lee preferences aside, cocktail PHOTOS BY chatter among the attendees centered on the much-discussed like a marriage, a marriage and sublimely outfitted space where we still communicate very Basel Ball in which they stood — “I want well. They listen to me, are very AT LEAST for a few hours on Thursday night, Road a few hours earlier. At Soho Beach to pretend to go to the bathroom honest,” he said. “We still bring the hottest ticket in South Florida had nothing House, where amfAR was holding its inaugural just so I can look around,” out the best in each other.” to do with Art Basel Miami Beach, which had Inspiration Miami Beach party, a large crowd of one partygoer confessed — It seems Malle grew very officially opened earlier in the day. The New potential revelers in their Miami best queued and the impending chicken- fond of the analogy as the night York Knicks were in town to play the Miami at the entrance. Inside, partygoers — including potpie supper. carried on. After a toast from Heat. Kim and Kanye and Diddy were all courtside. Joseph Altuzarra, Dita Von Teese, Riccardo Tisci, The man of the hour worked Mark Lee, in which he said, “At NBA superfan and fashion-week front-row Kenneth Cole and Lily Kwong — took in the works the crowd, reflecting on his Barneys, we have stars and we regular James Goldstein was not. for auction while guests mingled in and out brand’s ten-year stretch. “It’s have superstars. Frédéric is a “Lebron’s people were supposed to give me from the beach. gone so fast. I feel like it was superstar,” the perfumer piped a courtside seat, and didn’t,” Goldstein said After the game, Kanye West and Kim just yesterday that I started. It’s in, “Put it this way, we’ve been a little wistfully of Lebron James as he stood Kardashian showed up at a dinner at The a very strange feeling,” Malle a great couple for ten years. just outside a tent on the sand at Soho Beach Webster in honor of the OhWow arts collective’s said. The perfumer spoke of And we still have a very strong House. “And I inquired at some different places It Ain’t Fair show, and followed with a brief his relationship with Barneys, intimate life.” to try to get a courtside seat and didn’t get appearance at the rooftop-held after party. likening it to another type of “Details!” one partygoer one….Then I had all these parties.” They beat an early exit. There was Dom relationship. “It’s been really shouted. — TAYLOR HARRIS It was 11 p.m. The game was coming to an Perignon’s Luminous Rose launch party to get end, but the nightlife that marks the yearly to after all. Terry Richardson stayed a bit later, Basel convergence of art, fashion, marketing gamely giving the thumbs-up for photographs. and celebrity was closer to halftime. Visionaire His signature pose looked game-ready for his IT WAS a living who’s who of was throwing its annual bash at the new SLS own “Terryworld” book party, scheduled for the fashion industry Thursday South Beach. The Misshapes had finished a DJ Friday night, when the whole show was ready to Holiday Talk night at Numéro editor in chief set at the new Armani Jeans store on Lincoln go on again. — MATTHEW LYNCH Babeth Djian’s benefit in Paris for Rwandan children. Karl Lagerfeld, MAÎTRE Jean Paul Gaultier, Alber Elbaz, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren were Ina Garten among attendees at the sit-down TDOMINIQUE dinner supporting the association BY Un Avenir pour les Enfants du Cheers! Monde, or AEM. PHOTOS As people mingled prior to the meal, the impending holidays were discussed with enthusiasm. Just in time for the holidays, Food Network Gaultier said he would go to favorite Ina Garten has penned her eighth southwest France to see family cookbook, entitled “Barefoot Contessa Foolproof: and also, possibly, to Greece to Recipes Yo u Can Trust.” She will be doing a visit with friends. Chantal Thomass signing Tuesday night at Barnes & Noble Union Antoine Arnault and will make her way to Los Angeles Square at 33 East 17th St., at 7 p.m. In advance Natalia Vodianova “to rest, wander around, shop, do of that, Garten shared a recipe, a variation of a a little spa and soak in some sun.” beloved cocktail from Dukes Bar in London. Vanessa Seward is Brighton, U.K.-bound; Kilian Hennessy will spend Christmas en famille in DUKES COSMOPOLITAN Paris, and Elie Saab is to hit the slopes of Courchevel, France. Makes four drinks Horsting and Snoeren count on “chilling at home.” 4 oz. freshly squeezed lemon juice (2 lemons) “There are quite a few things 4 oz. Cointreau liqueur coming up next year because 7 oz. cranberry-juice cocktail, it’s our 20th anniversary,” said such as Ocean Spray Horsting. “Actually, today is the 7 oz. good vodka, such as Grey Goose sixth, and December 1st was Dash of raw egg white (optional) exactly 20 years ago that we Ice started working together.” For his part, Elbaz hasn’t got In a pitcher, stir together the lemon an agenda sorted out yet. “I have juice, Cointreau, cranberry-juice cocktail, a tendency to make those plans at vodka and egg white (if using). Fill a cocktail the last minute,” he revealed. shaker half full with ice and pour enough Reprinted from the book “Barefoot Contessa “I have no holiday,” continued of the drink mixture into the shaker to Foolproof” copyright © 2012 by Ina Garten. Karl Lagerfeld and Lagerfeld. “I do couture. I like to almost fill it. Shake the cocktail for a full Photograph copyright © 2012 by Quentin Bacon. Babeth Djian be in Paris and have time.” 30 seconds (it’s longer than you think!) and Published by Clarkson Potter, a division of — JENNIFER WEIL strain into martini glasses. Serve ice cold. Random House Inc. — KIM FRIDAY WWD monday, december 10, 2012 11 WWD.COM

go all the way around the building just to Burberry get a little fresh air,” Margolin said. “I can’t celebrates say it was grueling. They were long days, Fashion scoops but we were excited by the energy of being its chicago flagship part of something like that.” opening. The designer found himself dealing WOLOSHIN TO ANN TAYLOR: Debbie p.m., to celebrate the company’s first with all sorts of new situations, such as Rose Woloshin, senior vice president birthday. Ten percent of vbeauté sales ensuring that the two horses featured in of marketing at the Jones Group that night will benefit the 92Y Nursery the “Still the One” tour didn’t step on the Inc., responsible for Nine West, School. — VIcKI M. YOUNG star’s clothes. The lace catsuit embellished International and Corporate, is moving with nude, pink and gunmetal Swarovski over to Ann Inc. She’s been tapped JOSIE AND THE DRAGON: More than 220 crystals and detachable lace chiffon senior vice president of marketing guests recently turned out to celebrate tethers has been a winning look with at the Ann Taylor brand, succeeding the launch of “Josie and the Dragon,” audiences and online fans alike. Interest Kristen Dykstra, who relocated to Los the first book by lingerie and ready-to- has been so strong among ticket buyers that Angeles to start a new opportunity. wear designer Josie Natori. the May and June performances will go on At Ann Taylor, she will oversee The book party, which was postponed sale Friday. Bouwer no doubt will return to such areas as marketing, advertising, due to Hurricane Sandy, took place at Las Vegas, since Twain, like celine Dion, Elton public relations and social media. She Openhouse Gallery, an art gallery on John and Rod Stewart, has signed up for a starts her new job today and reports to Broome Street in lower Manhattan. The two-year residency at the Colosseum. Brian Lynch, president of the Ann Taylor event also featured an exhibition of the — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG brand. — LISA LOcKWOOD book’s original paintings by Andrea Byrne. “Natori brings art into life, so TEAM PLAYERS: Football blended with fashion NO DOUBT ABOUT IT: Fred Perry has teamed launching the book at a gallery was very when Dallas Cowboys executive vice with No Doubt for a new collaboration. important to us,” said Natori. “Everyone president charlotte Anderson hosted a trunk The Southern California band worked seemed to love the illustrations, and show at her Highland Park, Texas, home for

alongside the Fred Perry thought that the story imaGes KatoPodis/Getty tasos Photo by London designer Katherine Hooker. Cohosts design team to create a was a whimsical way to included Anderson’s mother, Gene Jones, collection of classic Fred celebrate the beginning who was joined at the high-profile event by and NBC sportscaster Michele Tafoya, who Perry styles, referenc- of our next 35 years of chief executive officerAngela Ahrendts. introduced the designer to Anderson. “There ing their ska and reggae business. East meets West British musician carl Barat, from are not a lot of activities in the NFL that are roots and tapping into defines everything we do, the Libertines, performed, adding to not male dominated,” said Anderson, whose Fred Perry’s relationship so the fact that we are in the English atmosphere, and Bailey, father, Jerry Jones, owns the Cowboys. “So we with subculture. A slim- the Year of the Dragon who remarked, “People like to party in decided to do a little twist and entertain our fit shirt, retailing for $95, made this anniversary Chicago,” continued to meet, greet and female customers, sponsors and friends to is available for both men celebration more special.” pose for smartphone photos until past the kick off the holiday season and bring them to and women, and features She described the party’s end time. — BETH WILSON meet Michele and Katherine.” signature tipping detail book as a “fashion Tafoya, who can’t wear the playing on the sleeves and collar folklore fairy tale” WHAT HAPPENS IN VEGAS: Marc Bouwer is teams’ colors when she’s reporting from in a reggae-inspired dark of how she became a just back from three weeks of helping NFL sidelines, has a rainbow of looks gold, red and green. The businesswoman in the Shania Twain put the finishing touches from the designer. limited-edition Fred Perry world of finance, and on her new Sin City show. All told, the “Ninety percent of the games I do, I’m shirt will be released in Josie later fulfilled her dream designer spent six months developing six wearing Katherine,” Tafoya said. “I tried it early January. The punk- Natori as a fashion designer. outfits for the country-music star, who is on two years ago, and I was hooked.” inspired tartan-check Guests included currently headlining the Colosseum at Hooker’s been capitalizing on the V-neck sweater, $170, and ericKsen Kyle Photo by Donna Hanover, who Caesars Palace. Most of the ensembles international press she’s gotten since her Fifties bomber, $250, will recently finished a gig on were inspired by the Bouwer clothes Twain coats were worn by the Duchess of cambridge be available for spring. The collection is Broadway in Gore Vidal’s “The Best wore in various music videos. The pair first and her sister, Pippa Middleton. The designer being sold on fredperry.us, with a global Man” with James Earl Jones; Helen Lowe; teamed up in 1998, when Bouwer dressed is looking for a showroom in New York and release in the spring. — L.L. Sabina Johnston, and Jeffrey Podolsky, who her for the inaugural “VH1 Divas Live.” American manufacturers. She’d also like penned the book for Natori, which In the weeks leading up to the Dec. 1 to create a wholesale business, and held RED ZONE: If red roses are the symbol tells a colorful tale in whimsical opening night, Bouwer and his company a second Dallas trunk show at Elements of love, then Ferragamo was feeling rhyme and verse of a “proper,” young president, Paul Margolin, spent 12 hours-plus boutique. “There is a lot of growth here and mighty amorous on Wednesday night. Asian girl who wants to break into the on set with Twain as she rehearsed. “We a huge amount of potential,” said Hooker, There were no less than 10,000 red fashion business, and for whom the only saw 30 minutes of sunlight the entire who was born in Cyprus to American roses on the long table that ran Dragon is a creative inspiration. time that we were there. Instead of taking parents and has lived in London for 40 years. down the center of London’s historic Some 2,000 copies of the book will the shortcut through the casino to get to “Being an American, I always had a passion Burlington Arcade at the dinner be sold at natori.com, for $50, and a the Colosseum, we would walk outside and to get the brand to America.” — HOLLY HABER hosted by the Florentine brand’s signed book giveaway is being offered chairman, Ferruccio Ferragamo, and on Natori’s Facebook page through the chief executive officerMichele Norsa, to month of December. — KARYN MONGET celebrate 75 years of its store on Old Bond Street, and the expansion of both BEAUTY TALK: The Giorgio Armani that shop and the one on Sloane Street. Beauty luncheon Thursday, above the Jessica Alba and camilla Belle provided Giorgio Armani store on Rodeo Drive Hollywood starlight to match the glow in Beverly Hills, was certainly not from the hundreds of candles that the place to catch stars without their lit the scene. They were joined by makeup. The brand’s makeup artists For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. the likes of Amber and Yasmin Le Bon, worked their magic on Madeleine Stowe, Annabelle Neilson, Zara Martin, Daniela Melissa Leo, Olivia Munn, Frances Fisher and Felder, Bay Garnett, charlotte Tilbury, Eva Amurri Martino. Leo loved the results, Tallulah Harlech, Polly Morgan, Portia but getting her makeup done isn’t an Freeman and Jasmine Guinness. activity she’d choose every day. “It’s Spaces Alba was in town for a three-day trip a means to an end for me more than with her daughter, Honor, 4, and the two something I enjoy. I have pretty much COMMERCIAL of them had been enjoying London’s spent my life as a bare-faced woman,” REAL ESTATE New York Embroidery Studio Sales Executive “girly” treats. “I took my daughter ice- she said. Embroidery, Laser Cutting & Branded Handbag & Accesories Division skating at the Natural History Museum, Given a bright lip, Munn sported a Embellishments Full service shop to the seeks exp. account executive. Proven suc- trade. High quality finish. 212-971-9101 or cess at E-Comm., boutique & dept. chains and she had her first taste of tea,” she look not customary for her. “My go-to [email protected] nationwide. Some travel & trade shows. Benefits. Send resume to: said. “We had tea in our hotel, and she makeup look is what I call doll face. [email protected] PATTERNS, SAMPLES, was like, ‘Ooh, what’s this?’ I also took I’m half Asian, so my eyes can kind of Showrooms & Lofts PRODUCTIONS her to Hamleys [the toy shop] and to disappear. I like to make things fresh- Full service shop to the trade. SALES MANAGER BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Our company is one of the world’s Fortnum & Mason. We’re having a little faced, with a nice rounded eye, just a Great ’New’ Office Space Avail leading manufacturers of luxury ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 girly trip.” little smudged,” she said. goods. We are looking to add a Sales — JULIA NEEL Manager to our team based in the New Checking out her makeup in a York showroom. While business expe- rience with luxury goods is helpful, cOLOR YOUR WORLD: Skin-care start-up mirror, Fisher raved about the deep the successful candidate will possess vbeauté is now into colors. The year-old burgundy lip color. “I hope they give an innate understanding and apprecia- brand has launched an antiaging lip me this so I can touch it up,” she HIGHLY DESIRABLE 7TH AVENUE tion of the luxury sector. Please sub- GARMENT CENTER SUBLET mit your resume to: gloss containing self-adjusting botanicals wished aloud. — RAcHEL BROWN OFFICE SPACE . [email protected] that react to the user’s lip chemistry to Security Building, 600 Sq. Ft. $2,950 in- cluding utilites. Recently refurbished. SALES PRO/ASSISTANT Contact Debbie: 212 997 2524 ext. 10 create a unique tint for the user. A BIT OF BRITISH RAIN: Burberry took Fast paced accessory importer (legwear, The gloss, called Lip Spread, is Chicago by storm, literally — creating a slippers, sandals, etc) is seeking an exp’d & highly ambitious salesperson for available in a 0.34-fl.-oz. tube that retails fake rain shower to celebrate the recent all categories. Must have chain store on the vbeaute.com site for $28. Also, in opening of its five-story flagship along exp. Many accounts available. Private label/branded. Please email resume to: development for launch early next year Michigan Avenue. Some 700 guests [email protected] is a new line of lip colors as the firm were greeted by a flurry of eco-friendly takes a first dip into color cosmetics. confetti as models stood with umbrellas Founder Julie Macklowe, a former and snapped their fingers to emulate hedge-fund manager, will make a the sound of rain. “We wanted to bring (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] personal appearance on Dec. 12 at a little bit of Britain to Chicago,” said Bergdorf Goodman, starting at 6:30 chief creative officerchristopher Bailey,

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THE TOP 10 STORIES RON JOHNSON: NEWSMAKER THEOF THE YEAR

MEMORABLE YEARMOMENTS IN

FASHIONIN MEMORIAM 2 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

THE YEAR IN FASHION A TRANSFORMATION IN PROGRESS

tings for updated merchandise from Newsmaker Jonathan Adler and Michael Graves, 2012 among other labels more apt to be seen in SoHo rather than a Middle American department store. of Shops-in-shop for Martha Stewart, the Carter’s, Cosmopolitan intimate ap- Year parel and Giggle baby clothes and gifts will also start rolling out next year. Stewart is abandoning Macy’s to sell at Penney’s, which says it will sell Martha next year, though a court battle over who can sell the brand continues. Johnson regards Martha Stewart and Ron Johnson other incoming big brands as magnets The J.C. Penney chief is reinventing the company. for more labels and customers. “It’s the By David Moin collection of partners that will change people’s perception of jcp, just like the iPod changed the perception of Apple.”

There could be additional announce- ments on brands, though Johnson wouldn’t cite any possibilities. “We are open to everything. We want to be exciting. We don’t want to be limited. We look at ourselves as kind of like the

next shopping mall, a land of specialty IT’S CHRISTMASTIME, sales are back image, forgoing suits in favor of will continue with the suggested price shops. Just like a mall, we want to bring down, retail analysts are second-guess- crewnecks even at heavy-duty investor format with its national brands going the best ideas to the customers.” ing the strategy, and Ron Johnson, the presentations. Similarities between forward. When brands have sale events Next year will also see the appear- casually clad, visionary chairman and what Apple has and what Penney’s at other retailers, Penney’s will honor ance of The Street, a half-mile-long re- chief executive officer of J.C. Penney strives for — a clean, service-oriented those temporary reductions so it can created main aisle through the store Co. Inc., is keeping his cool. and nonpromotional·· retail environ- remain price competitive. where customers can relax, check “I don’t feel any pressure exter- ment — are apparent. Smelling blood, rival retailers have their e-mails, sip coffee or juice and nally or from any investors. I am really The long lumbering Penney’s had been pounding away at Penney’s mar- order via mobile checkout. The Street focused on rebuilding J.C. Penney,” no other choice than to remake itself ket share by becoming more promo- will also have the “jcp bar” for returns, Johnson told WWD. “We are not feeling for a better future. The company was tional and as coupon-crazed as ever. cash checkouts and pickups from on- any pressure other than doing the right seeing a sales slowdown and decline in “We knew this year sales would go line orders. It becomes the “interface” thing for J.C. Penney.” product quality before Johnson joined backwards as we established, if you for customers to visit Penney’s new And more than most retailers, he’s in 2011, and this year has endured will, a high-integrity pricing model,” shops, Johnson said. looking forward to 2013 when “the fun further declines. In the third quarter Johnson said. “It’s been a little tougher Another Johnson creation geared begins,” as many more products, brands ended Oct. 27, there was a $123 million than anticipated, but now we are three for Penney’s stores to be opened in the and shops emerge on the selling floors. loss, compared with $143 million in the weeks to the finish,” of year one, in future is called The Square, which he’s “This has been a very hard year. As year-ago quarter, and sales dropped Penney’s four-year reinvention. described in the past as “a dynamic hard as this year was, next year will be 26.6 percent to $2.93 billion from $4 bil- At the end of the process, Johnson seasonal space with unique items, light exhilarating, as we return to growth,” lion last year. Even Internet sales were will either be the hero for boldly rein- food and beverage and engaging expe- Johnson said. “Clearly this year we down, declining 37.3 percent to $214 vigorating and rethinking the $15 bil- riences” including holiday trim-a-tree depromoted. We lowered our base. areas that for the January-February Now we see what the customer shop- period would switch to activewear, ping patterns are. We know how to juices and Pilates and yoga classes. compete off a new base line. We expect Every two months the focus in The a return to growth next year. We really haven’t begun to update the Square will change, Johnson said. “Levi’s is wonderful. Izod is won- In fall 2013, Penney’s will unveil derful. It’s pretty remarkable that in assortments. Next year will be real fun. a prototype 130,000-square-foot store a few short months, you can see such that will “feel like a shopping mall,” profound changes,” he said of the re- Next year is when you will really be Johnson said. While it seems most of tailer’s new shop-in-shops. “But we the focus has been on brick-and-mor- really haven’t begun to update the as- tar reinvention, with digital shopping, sortments. That’s what happens next seeing the transformation. “stay tuned,” Johnson said. “We have year. Next year will be real fun. Next rolled out the ability to check out via year is when you will really be seeing — RON JOHNSON mobile. All stores have iPads. That’s the transformation.” been very successful.” Effective Feb. As far as being named WWD 1, “every employee will have an iPad. Newsmaker of the Year, it hasn’t quite million. Penney’s stock has nose-dived lion Penney’s business, or the goat who There are unlimited ways it can be sunk in. “I’m not sure if that’s a good from a high of $43.18 in February to a brought it down. used,” though no capabilities have been thing or a bad thing,” Johnson said, re- low of $15.69 in November, and closed “The transformation is on track,” announced yet beyond the checkout. sponding to the news. at $18.16 on Friday. Johnson said, in providing a progress Also on the tech front, Penney’s is It’s a good thing. Johnson has es- There also have been a few setbacks report on the business. Johnson added rolling out an Oracle platform over the tablished himself as a retail icono- on the management and marketing that 10 percent of the square foot- next three years with 60 percent fewer clast, willing to rewrite the rules of the fronts, with the sudden departure of age has so far been reinvented with applications than the current one, a game in his high-stakes reinvention of Penney’s president Michael Francis, a new shops, including Levi’s, Izod, Liz new digital platform for the online the 110-year-old Penney’s. In terms of short-lived advertising campaign with Claiborne and the jcp and Arizona pri- store; for spring, Penney’s expects to speed and scope, he’s leading a retail Ellen Degeneres and a pricing plan vate brands, and that reinvented space be fully RFID, and the store will go pa- overhaul of unprecedented proportions that originally confused customers but is outperforming the old space. It’s like perless, except for signs. — resculpting Penney’s prosaic sell- has since been simplified, though some a tale of two stores, or as Johnson put In New York, Penney’s has moved ing floors into a “specialty department shoppers who loved their coupons de- it, like a restaurant under renovation. into space in SoHo, on Lafayette and store” with ultimately 100 individual fected to other stores. Johnson won’t Imagine Penney’s as a·· restaurant with Broome Streets, where it’s recruiting specialty shops within the box, add- restore coupons, but is open to staging 100 tables, he said, where 10 new tables talent, most likely on the creative and ing better brands to modernize the mix an occasional promotion as evidenced have been brought in, but there’s been design sides, though Johnson declined while tossing out the dogs, and devel- by Penney’s Black Friday sale, official- no change in the menu as of yet. “Next to specify. Penney’s has its headquar- oping a cleaner, easier-to-navigate lay- ly the store’s only sale of the year, and year we update the menu and get to 40 ters in Plano, Tex., as well as a sourc- out with coffee stops, gelato stands and holiday buttons that can be redeemed tables. We will have 40 percent [of the ing center in Hong Kong and financial high-tech advancements for service. for a chance to win gifts are being dis- store space reinvented] as we move operations in Salt Lake City. He’s also introduced a controversial tributed through Christmas Eve. through next year. That is a big differ- Such projects as launching Joe everyday low “fair and square” pricing Meanwhile, Penney’s is working ence,” Johnson said. Fresh chainwide in nearly 700 stores scheme that eliminated coupons and harder to communicate to consumers The most anticipated addition is Joe within a week or two seem herculean. the high-low price promoting Penney’s its fair-and-square pricing by making Fresh, which in March rolls out inside “It’s hard. Not herculean,” Johnson was addicted to, though clearances are it easier for them to do comparisons 683 Penney stores with shops-in-shop said. “Joe Fresh is the big first new still staged. when they shop. Penney’s estimates from 1,000 to 2,500 square feet each, partner. We can’t wait to launch that. Johnson was already in the spotlight that $500 million in sales was lost be- giving Joe Fresh a huge U.S. footprint We have built a great team and most of before joining Penney’s as the architect cause of not showcasing comparison practically overnight. the great people I have met love to take of Apple’s successful store rollout. He’s values. On certain brands, such as Izod, An even bigger change involves on the big tasks. I loved Apple during been taking lessons from the Apple Penney’s is showing suggested and renovating the home floor, which will the growth. When it becomes easy to do playbook in the Penney’s rebuild, and retail prices, which is the retailer’s be transformed at Penney’s larger lo- things, that’s when it’s time to do some- he maintains that Silicon Valley laid- fair-and-square model. The company cations, with 15,000-square-foot set- thing different.” ©D.YURMAN 2012 DAVIDYURMAN.COM 888-DYURMAN 4 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

THE YEAR IN FASHION NEWSMAKERS OF THE YEAR The People’s Choice 1 If the designation were “CEO of the Year,” Emanuel Chirico of PVH Inc. could well have garnered top honors for the big moves he orchestrated and the way the brands in his company’s portfolio have flourished. Chirico is the winner of the People’s Choice for Newsmaker of the Year, garnering the most votes from WWD.com readers among a list culled by WWD editors of 20 nominees. Here, the top 10 vote-getters as selected by visitors to the Web site.

EMANUEL CHIRICO, CHAIRMAN AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, PVH CORP. Hurricane Sandy had brought virtually all other activity in New York to a standstill, but it couldn’t stop Emanuel Chirico from closing his third megadeal as either chief financial officer or, since 2006, chief executive officer of PVH Corp. In a long anticipated transaction, the ceo reached an agreement to acquire Warnaco Group Inc. for $2.9 billion on Oct. 30. Having skillfully worked down debt and enhanced operating performance after the 2002 acquisition of Calvin Klein Inc. for $430 million and the 2010 purchase of Tommy Hilfiger for $3 billion, Chirico, this year’s People’s Choice winner as selected by visitors to WWD.com for Newsmaker of the Year, managed not only to bring Warnaco’s jeans and underwear businesses under direct PVH control, but pick up the rights to Speedo and expand corporate assets in underpenetrated markets such as Asia and Latin America, as well. Originally considered a “numbers guy,” he’s proven to also be a savvy marketer who’s bringing the company’s heritage brands — including Izod, Van Heusen and Arrow — back to profitability with fresh merchandise and attention-getting advertising and promotion. Set to cross the $8 billion mark with the integration of Warnaco, few question the seriousness of Chirico’s intention to overtake the nearly $11 billion VF Corp.

JEFF BEZOS, CHAIRMAN AND RICHARD PERRY, NICOLAS GHESQUIERE CEO, AMAZON.COM INC. CHAIRMAN, BARNEYS Trying to figure out Nicolas 2 Amazon is on the cusp of 3 NEW YORK 4 Ghesquière’s next step has expanding its fashion reach in a Richard Perry, the hedge-fund become the party game of the major way, which means the e-tail superstar, art collector and one of season, after the acclaimed giant Jeff Bezos founded in 1994 New York City’s wealthiest men, French designer parted ways might soon exceed the 37 percent put Barneys New York on better with Balenciaga following a of domestic mobile commerce it footing after his Perry Capital fund creatively charged 15-year tenure. already commands. took a majority stake in the luxury Whether he decides to launch In October, Amazon said it chain. The deal wiped out virtually a signature brand or takes the leased a 40,000-square-foot space all of Barneys’ debt, in exchange helm of another fashion house, in Brooklyn’s Williamsburg section, serving as a photography for equity. Perry, who happens to be a Barneys shopper, Ghesquière remains one of a handful of designers capable studio for Amazon Fashion, which also owns Shopbop and took a seat on the board, wants Barneys to be more of producing both high-brow conceptual clothes and MyHabit, and opening next spring. The Web site, currently profitable and busier, and more of a social hub, beyond the spawning a thousand high-street imitations. the leader for market share and innovation among its peers, always-crowded Fred’s restaurant inside the store. His spring 2013 collection, which proved to be his contends that fashion is its most rapidly growing business. So far, he’s kept a low profile and the Barneys team front swan song, was widely praised by retailers and editors for In the third quarter ended Sept. 30, Amazon posted and center, but he’s said to be backing renovations and its fresh and youthful tailoring, modern frills and square- a net loss of $274 million versus a year-ago profit of $63 new merchandising and marketing concepts, and closely heeled shoes. million, as the company continued to invest heavily in examining retail locations, some of which have long been infrastructure like warehouses. Net sales for the quarter slow. Barneys in NorthPark Center in Dallas, a big beautiful totaled $13.81 billion versus $10.88 billion a year ago. store with a limited clientele, is set to close next April. GIANNONI GIOVANNI

RAF SIMONS, TORY BURCH KARL LAGERFELD ARTISTIC DIRECTOR, With 82 stores worldwide, 35 Though his design duties at 5 CHRISTIAN DIOR 6 more in the pipeline for 2013, a 7 Chanel and Fendi kept him plenty It’s been a roller-coaster year for solid wholesale business and two busy, Karl Lagerfeld also found Raf Simons, who went from a consecutive runway hits under her time to relaunch his signature tearful farewell after seven years belt, Tory Burch has become one brand, owned by London-based JOHN AQUINO; GHESQUIERE BY as creative director at Jil Sander of the most-talked about American Apax Partners. Besides a masstige to being crowned Dior’s sixth designers. Her Reva ballet flats line, the Karl collection, and couturier. The Belgian designer and handbags continue to lure fans premium Karl Lagerfeld Paris has come a long way since to her stores, and the business ranges under license with Italy’s bursting onto the scene as a community likes to speculate about Ittierre SpA, he is also overseeing maker of edgy men’s wear infused with youthful angst. an IPO, though the designer has denied this. licenses for watches and perfume, with plans for a BY STEVE EICHNER; KORS Though his debut at Dior during the July couture did Burch is also embroiled in a nasty legal battle with ex- concept store in Paris set to open in 2013. not skimp on spectacle, with decor featuring a million husband Christopher Burch, who cofounded the company All that on top of touring the world to promote Chanel’s fresh flowers and a star-studded front row, Simons with her. He sued her in October, claiming she blocked “The Little Black Jacket” photo book and exhibition, and proved his minimal aesthetic was intact, showing sleek him from selling his stake in the firm. She countered with side projects as varied as designing VIP helicopters to a clothes that promise to steer the august house in a a suit alleging he used his role at the company to source collection of color cosmetics for Shu Uemura. more modernist direction. And his spring rtw show was and develop “copycat” products and store furnishings for critically acclaimed for its futuristic takes on Dior’s his C. Wonder retail brand. Most recently, she accused him iconic “bar” jacket and flower shapes. of withholding documents pertinent to the case.

MICHAEL KORS HEDI SLIMANE, RON JOHNSON, CEO, As the song goes, “It was a very CREATIVE DIRECTOR, J.C. PENNEY CO. INC. 8 good year” for Michael Kors. 9 YVES SAINT LAURENT 10 The choice of WWD’s editors

After 30 years of designing and Fashion industry fascination as Newsmaker of the Year, Ron LAGERFELD BY VICTORIA BONN-MEUSER/DPA/CORBIS; a high-profile gig as a judge on went into overdrive when Hedi Johnson was a natural nominee, “Project Runway,” Kors’ $1.7 Slimane was named creative given the focus on his plans for billion company went public last director of Yves Saint Laurent, transforming J.C. Penney Co. December in one of the largest after focusing on photography Inc. and its future positioning IPOs for a U.S. fashion firm. for seven years. on the retail map. He brought The stock, which began trading Known for his precise, out a slew of retail catch phrases at $20 a share, closed Friday at almost-obsessive attention to toward achieving his goal: genius $51.60. Kors’ total proceeds from the IPO and follow-up detail, Slimane raised media hackles with a restrictive bar, shops-in-shop, a store viewed as a house and aisles offerings was over $467 million. invitation policy that excluded some editors or relegated thought of as streets. THOMAS IANNACCONE; BEZOS BY As of September, Kors held 8,356,016 shares of them to standing in what was regarded as one of the The very idea of turning the department store stock, which would value his investment at $421 million hottest tickets of the season. The collection included model upside down is revolutionary, evolutionary and and put him on the path to becoming a billionaire. Total reverential smokings, wide-brimmed hats and bohemian controversial, and the whole market is watching. Forty revenue growth for the second quarter was attributed dresses. It was widely praised by retailers, with mixed new shops in March are on the way, and there’s likely to a mix of accessories, footwear, watches, jewelry and reviews from critics. more growing pains ahead that will keep Johnson and eyewear, which combined for 79 percent of the firm’s Penney’s in the news for some time. product assortment. PHOTOS BY CHIRICO AND BURCH 2 “summer” London vacations 3 evil school buses 3,542 cats and dogs 2 lucky pigeon encounters 6,000 gallons of rainwater 100 mph winds 6 times left on the subway 1 million hailstones 3 times singing in the rain 1 sheltered stranger 204 dirty puddle splashes

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SECTION II MoralTHE YEAR IN FASHION TOP 10 STORIES Hazard

Controversy erupted over tragedy and substandard working conditions, as labor once again became a major focus. By Arthur Friedman

THE MOST BASIC element of the fashion and that workers in key producing coun- not take effect until a certain number of industry — where clothes are made — be- The fire in Bangladesh tries risk their lives on a daily basis pro- companies have signed it. came one of the year’s most controversial highlighted problems ducing clothes for Europe and the USA.” Kevin Burke, chief executive officer issues, giving urgency to a moral question: CCC said what’s most important is that of the American Apparel & Footwear in workplace safety. What is a low price really worth if the hid- governments and companies ensure that Association, said the AAFA had a den cost is in dangerous, often abusive workers can freely organize and speak seminar on workplace safety last week and sometimes fatal labor conditions? out when safety regulations are ignored. in Dhaka that was attended by more The industry’s century-old stigma of Then came the news in neighboring than 400 people from the Bangladesh unsafe factory conditions reemerged as Bangladesh last month that 111 work- industry. Burke said the operators in tragic fires struck several Asian plants, ers died in a fire at a garment factory Bangladesh were accepting responsi- killing hundreds of workers. in Dhaka. Three officials from Tazreen bility for the tragedy and were commit- Factory conditions were thought to Fashions Ltd. were arrested after an ted to improving conditions to ensure have been on a steady rate of improve- investigation found they had padlocked nothing similar happens again. ment with the advent of corporate so- all the collapsible gates and provided “There is no excuse for such a trag- cial responsibility and monitoring pro- wrong information to the workers when edy to occur,” he said. “Worker safety is a grams throughout the industry. But in the fire broke out. priority of the AAFA and we feel workers September, 101-year-old ghosts of New Again, there was an outcry from inter- should be treated with respect. If this isn’t York’s Triangle Shirtwaist Fire emerged in national watchdog groups and protests a wake-up call for the industry, I don’t Pakistan when 264 workers perished in an in the streets to improve factory condi- know what is. There are a lot of great inferno at Ali Enterprises, a garment manu- tions. Wal-Mart Stores Inc. immediately places and factories in the world to make facturer in Karachi. The owners of the fac- terminated the relationship with a sup- goods, and if the owners in Bangladesh tory were charged with murder, attempted plier that subcontracted work to Tazreen or Pakistan or elsewhere want to be play- murder and criminal negligence for using because it was a direct violation of the ers, they have to make sure they run safe illegal electrical connections. While the retailer’s policies. The retail giant also facilities. There is just no room for inci-

factory was burning in Karachi, 25 people STRINGER/AFP/GETTY IMAGES pledged to help improve fire safety edu- dents like this in our industry.” died in Lahore in a blaze at a shoe factory. cation and training in Bangladesh. Li In recent years, Chinese officials The tragedies brought to the forefront & Fung Ltd. and German mass retailer said the country’s workplace fatalities the poor working conditions that prevail PHOTO BY C&A acknowledged having orders with have declined. But only last week, a in many apparel factories throughout that raged for 15 hours, workers threw the factory when the fire occurred. Li Chinese man set fire to the Shantou gar- the developing world, from Pakistan sewing machines at the windows, tried & Fung said it will compensate victims’ ment factory in Guangdong where he and Bangladesh to China and Cambodia, to squeeze between the bars and leapt families and set up an education fund once worked, killing 14. Liu Shuangyun despite concerted efforts by apparel from second and third floors, causing for their children. apparently was angry he hadn’t been brands and organizations to improve broken bones and other injuries. U.S. and international labor and paid $500 in wages from over a year ago. conditions. They also fanned public The International Labor Organization1 human rights groups sent a letter to Workplace fatalities in China remain outrage at the callousness of the factory called for Pakistan to take concrete U.S. Labor Secretary Hilda Solis and higher than anywhere else, with nearly owners and lax enforcement of safety steps to improve safety standards in the European government labor officials 90,000 people killed on the job, across standards by the Pakistani government. country. Seiji Machida, head of ILO’s calling on them to press companies to various industries, and almost 400,000 Officials blamed the large number SafeWork Program, said, “Protection of sign onto a “memorandum of under- injured at work in 2010. Figures have of casualties on the factory having no workers’ safety and health is a funda- standing” with a group of nongovern- not been published for 2011, but there emergency doors or stairways, with most mental human right. We need to reinforce mental organizations and trade unions, have been no significant reforms or ad- of the people suffocating in a locked, measures to protect workers’ lives from known as the “Bangladesh Fire and vances in workplace safety. smoke-filled basement. Fire trucks and hazards in the workplace.” Building Safety Agreement.” The pact is “There are not enough personnel or cranes could not easily gain access to Clean Clothes Campaign internation- focused on bringing together the govern- resources for local government to make the building. Because of thefts, the own- al coordinator Ineke Zeldenrust said ment and brand owners to create a safe sure all the factories are up to code,” said ers had all exits locked and there were at the time, “These deaths could and and sustainable work environment. PVH Geoffrey Crothall, communications di- bars on the windows, trapping 600 men should have been avoided....It is well Corp. and German retailer Tchibo have rector for China Labor Bulletin, a Hong and women inside. To escape the fire known that many workplaces are unsafe, signed onto the agreement, but it will Kong-based labor rights organization. Fashion Moments of 2012

Jan. 10: No good deed goes unpunished. can expand to a city near you. Straight Jan. 27: At a Paris dinner to launch his Diego Della Valle’s plan to donate 25 hair for everyone. Masstige line, Karl Lagerfeld serves up million euros to the restoration of the iPads — on silver platters — for each Colosseum hits a wall when Codacons, Jan. 24: Phoebe Philo, expecting her guest as the fifth course of the dinner. Italy’s antitrust authority, finds “a series third child at the time, cancels her fall of distortions” in Tod’s bid. runway show for Celine in favor of a very Jan. 31: The White House is forced small, very select presentation. to deny reports in several British Jan. 13: Hasbro pairs with Junk Food newspapers, including the Telegraph, Clothing to launch a fashion line of Jan. 24: A day before its flight-themed that Michelle Obama had spent T-shirts based on its classic board game YOUSSEF NABIL couture show in Paris, Chanel charters $50,000 on lingerie at Agent Monopoly to retail at Kitson in L.A. fleets of private planes to fly its top Provocateur on Madison Avenue.

PHOTO BY customers, press and friends to Las Vegas Jan. 17: Miuccia Prada complains about for its lucky number-themed event and Feb. 1: Anna Wintour is ranked in the the forthcoming Met Museum Costume ▲ Jan. 18: Christian Louboutin unveils exhibition “Numéros Privés” at the Wynn. top tier of fund-raising bundlers for Institute exhibition “Schiaparelli and Prada: his collaboration with famous Paris nude President Obama, raising more than

Impossible Conversations,” saying, “It’s too cabaret Crazy Horse to run from March 5 ▼ Jan. 25: For its couture show, $500,000 for his reelection campaign. formal; they are focused on similarities, but to May 31. Chanel commissions a plane, or at they are not taking into consideration that least its interior, to be installed in the we are talking about two different eras, and Jan. 19: Emanuel Ungaro says it will Grand Palais, complete with seating for that [Schiaparelli and I] are total opposites. not deliver its spring 2012 collection 250, double-C monogrammed carpet I told them but they don’t care.” to retailers because of an internal and a 164-foot aisle. reorganization. It also cancels its fall Jan. 18: For the first time, H&M takes collection and all pre-fall appointments. Jan. 26: Jean Paul Gaultier’s couture

out a 30-second spot during the Super collection, an ode to the style of recently STEPHANE FEUGERE Bowl for its David Beckham Bodywear Jan. 20: Blowout factory Drybar inks a deceased Amy Winehouse, proves too collection. NBC is reportedly charging $16 million deal with Castanea Partners, soon, invoking the ire of her fans, her $3.5 million per 30-second spot. through which the hair-drying sensation family and many fashion people. PHOTO BY WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012 7

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THE YEAR IN FASHION TOP 10 STORIES

To p 10 Bankruptcies It’s the Economy, Still IF SURVIVAL OF THE FITTEST is the name of the game, the following firms probably should have spent more time at the gym. Impacted mostly by severe debt and an While there are a few bright spots, there’s still a long inability to find a way out, they filed for bankruptcy protection, and some liquidated. road ahead for the global economy. By Evan Clark A few brands were fortunate and found new owners, but at least three retailers — Bakers, Daffy’s and Mark Shale — closed up shop. FASHION IS STILL looking for a port should support weaker neighbors such Following are the 10 biggest bankruptcies of the year, ranked by actual or in the storm. as Greece and has threatened to break estimated liabilities. — VICKI M. YOUNG It’s been nearly five years since the apart the euro currency bloc. last U.S. recession began, but boom The problems aren’t likely to be fixed ARCAPITA BANK BSC: Founded in THE CONNAUGHT GROUP: Founded never followed bust as the financial cri- soon. German Chancellor Angela Merkel 1996 as First Islamic Investment Bank, in 1982 by William Rondina, the direct sis, a debt hangover and a housing glut recently said the region’s sovereign debt the Bahrain-based firm listed liabilities of seller of high-end apparel filed in interrupted the typical cycle and threw crisis would last “at least” five more years. $2.55 billion when it filed in March. Apparel February, listing liabilities between $50 the global economy off kilter. According to Eurostat, the euro zone has retailer J. Jill and accessories retailer Bijoux million and $100 million. It was sold That’s left the industry with hopes slipped into its second recession since the Terner are investments under the Arcapita for $22 million to a joint venture called for the future, but nowhere to turn for global financial crisis began. Economic umbrella, although neither operating Forty-Three Eighty Co., comprising men’s subsidiary was parties to the filing. Arcapita, wear custom suit manufacturer Tom stability as the U.S. recovery limps output in the 17-country currency bloc fell still in bankruptcy, last month secured a James Co. and Hong Kong-based Royal along, Europe remains tangled in a 0.1 percent in the third quarter, following $125 million loan from Fortress Investment Spirit Group, Connaught’s largest vendor. debt crisis and the economic engine of a 0.2 percent drop in the second quarter. Group, which buys it time to restructure China is shifting into a lower gear. Italy and Spain have been contracting without having to sell off investments. DAFFY’S INC.: The 51-year-old off- The U.S. recovery is still weak and, for a year, and Greece is mired in depres- pricer founded by Irving J. Shulman in while consumer confidence is up and sion. Germany and France, the zone’s big- THE PEACOCK GROUP: The British 1961 as Daffy Dan’s Bargaintown in company profits are topping last year, gest economies, grew 0.2 percent in the fashion retailer entered administration in July decided to shutter its stores, but unemployment is still high at 7.7 percent most recent quarter. January, the U.K. equivalent of Chapter first made a quick stop in bankruptcy and a serious slowdown is projected for The French economy is growing — al- 11 in the U.S. It is considered the biggest court in August to avoid being forced holiday sales growth. beit at a snail’s pace — and Moody’s British retail collapse since Woolworths in into insolvency by its factors trying As a barometer for the econ- Investors Service last month 2008. The company, which had $295.6 to protect $37 million in unsecured omy, look at Ben S. Bernanke, downgraded the country’s cred- million in debt, sold off its assets. Sun creditor claims. The chain could not chairman of the Federal it rating to “Aa1” from “Aaa,” European Partners, the European advisor compete with other off-price chains that Reserve. The leader of the and retained its negative to Boca Raton, Fla.-based Sun Capital provided consumers with better deals on Fed has famously been de- outlook due to rising unem- Partners, acquired the Bonmarché apparel in-season merchandise. scribed as the person who ployment, tax hikes and grim chain, while Edinburgh Woollen Mill takes away the punch just as growth prospects. acquired the Peacocks chain. BETSEY JOHNSON LLC: The the party gets started — rais- Weakness in the massive licensee, which operates the designer’s ing interest rates to restrain consumer economies of the UNITED RETAIL GROUP: The company freestanding stores and e-commerce growth and keeping the econ- U.S. and Europe has been a operated Avenue, the plus-sized women’s site, listed liabilities of $15.4 million in apparel chain, and was under the umbrella its April filing. It was run by Castanea omy from overheating. Instead, blow to China, which has seen its of the PPR-owned Redcats USA division, Partners, the Boston-based private equity the economy has been so weak manufacturing-based growth slow. which was not part of the filing. Listing firm which held a controlling stake since that Bernanke, a scholar of the Great Gone are the double-digit spikes of liabilities of $67.3 million when it filed in 2007. The Betsey Johnson brand, which Depression, has the Fed pouring the years past. China’s economy expanded February, Avenue was acquired by Versa is owned by Steve Madden, was not drinks fast and furious, pledging to keep by roughly 7.5 percent for the first three Capital, which also owns Bob’s Stores. involved in the filing. interest rates low and turning to bond quarters of the year. purchases to keep mortgages relatively But even that growth — and the vi- HMX GROUP: The men’s apparel firm MS MARK SHALE LLC: After 83 years cheap and support the housing market. brant Chinese luxury consumer — was formerly known as Hartmarx Corp. is in business, distressed men’s specialty Now, all eyes are on Washington, unable to mask the production slow- in the process of completing its second retailer Mark Shale shuttered its three where President Obama is wrestling with down. Investors worried over a lack tour of bankruptcy in four years. Listing remaining Chicago stores. The high-end Congress to try to steer away from the of capital for private firms as well as a liabilities of between $50 million and retailer, which had liabilities of $5.6 fiscal cliff — an automatic slate of tax in- potentially growing reliance on larger $100 million when it filed in October, million, filed in August after being unable creases and spending cuts that kicks in at state-owned enterprises. the owners of suit brands Hart Schaffner to find a strategic partner. It was the yearend. Skeptics remain, well, skeptical Japan has been little comfort. It start- Marx and Hickey Freeman are in the third tour of bankruptcy proceedings for since the fiscal cliff was a way for lawmak- ed strong this year as the government process of selling the company through a the chain over a 17-year period. It was ers to postpone action when the debt ceil- funded recovery efforts from last year’s bankruptcy court-sponsored auction. founded by Shale Baskin in 1929 and ing needed to be2 raised last year. earthquake and tsunami, but the econo- was formerly known as Al Baskin. If there’s no solution, economists ex- my lost steam as the year progressed, ten- BAKERS FOOTWEAR GROUP: The pect America to sink back into recession. sions with China flared and consumers footwear and accessories chain in October AQUASCUTUM: The 161-year old The fiscal cliff is just the U.S. ver- cut back on their shopping. In the third defaulted on a $30 million secured credit British brand entered administration facility. Listing $59.5 million in liabilities, in April and was acquired in May by sion of the ills vexing Europe, where quarter, gross domestic product slumped the chain is now liquidating. Based in St. YGM Trading, owner of Guy Laroche. It governments are trying to find the 3.5 percent on an annualized basis. — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS Louis, Bakers went public in 2004 and purchased for $18.5 million the assets right balance of taxes coming in and counts as investors Steve Madden Ltd. of Aquascutum that it didn’t already FROM KATHLEEN E. MCLAUGHLIN, social spending going out. This awk- and Peter Edison, Bakers’ chief executive own. YGM, a Chinese firm, represents the ward dance has stronger players like AMANDA KAISER, SAMANTHA CONTI officer, who once held various positions at burgeoning trend of licensees acquiring Germany wondering how much they AND ALEX WYNNE Edison Brothers Stores. the brands they license.

Feb. 7: Halston gears up for a relaunch richest man Amancio Ortega, reveals plans Klein show, their ranks diminished by — again. This time, it’s in the hands of to marry Sergio Alvarez in a dress made by inclement weather. They chose the Klein Ben Malka, private chairman and ceo. Zara, one of Inditex’s top brands. show “because of the symbolic nature of it and it’s the last day of fashion week,” Feb. 10: Miguel Adrover returns to the says Justin Stone-Diaz, an information New York schedule after shuttering his coordinator for the movement. company in 2004. He serves up a strong, irreverent show. Feb. 24: Girls start lining up at 8 a.m. for Katy Perry’s public appearance to Feb. 13: Alexander Wang shows he’s part introduce her line of fake eyelashes for of the big leagues, booking top supermodels Eylure at an Ulta pop-up shop at The KEVIN MAZUR/WIREIMAGE Gisele Bündchen, Shalom Harlow and Americana at Brand in Glendale, Calif. Karolina Kurkova to close his fall show. ▼

PHOTO BY March 1: Alber Elbaz marks a Feb. 15: Following Whitney Houston’s decade at Lanvin.

death, the E network pulls the ▼ rebroadcast of the “Fashion Police” March 5: Rei Kawakubo shows a Feb. 7: Madonna performs at the Super episode during which Joan Rivers Comme des Garçons collection for the Bowl halftime show in Givenchy couture. lambasted Houston. (The original show ages, based on two-dimensional, outsize aired the day before Houston died.) Asked outfits in bright colors and prints. Her Feb 9: Pamela Skaist-Levy and Gela for comment at the Badgley Mischka standard cryptic sound bite postshow: Nash-Taylor, the original Juicy Couture show, Rivers says she has no regrets: “The future is two dimensions.” ladies, are back with a new contemporary “When she’s alive, she’s fair game. It’s line they launch at New York Fashion Week. part of being a celebrity.” March 8: Marc Jacobs commissions a STEPHANE FEUGERE full-scale steam locomotive to roll into Feb. 10: Marta Ortega, the 28-year-old Feb. 17: Members of the Occupy Wall the Cour Carrée du Louvre for the fall

daughter of Inditex founder and Spain’s Street movement showed up at the Calvin PHOTO BY Louis Vuitton show. 8 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012

SECTION II

the year in fashion toP 10 stories A ry/AF p / g etty i m A ges; y t imothy A. Cl B g etty i m A ges y Andrew Burton/

Transportation centers were severely damaged and flooding paralyzed parts of New York. Bowling green photo C A rey t unnel B

possible, but consumers, many of whom were dealing the Internet,” because people did not have electricity. with Sandy’s aftermath, kept their dollars for home re- Analysts weren’t completely convinced that the re- pairs and necessary supplies. sults could be squarely blamed on Sandy, as many of the Sandy Strikes What resulted was an inventory build-up and price companies blaming the storm didn’t even have a broad markdowns, as stores worked to clear the shelves for store base in the hardest-hit regions. For example, The devastating megastorm that hit the new deliveries. Dismal November comparable-store only about 7 percent of Nordstrom’s 238-store fleet was Northeast destroyed property, left millions sales, which encompassed the start of Sandy’s wrath based in the Tristate area, experts noted. without power for an extended time and on Oct. 28, reflected the spending clawback, as monthly “A lot of people are blaming Sandy, but natural or caused angst among retailers and suppliers sales rose 1.7 percent, much less than the 4.5 percent to unnatural events don’t destroy demand. It displaces 5.5 percent expected by experts. it,” Craig Johnson, president of Customer Growth heading into the crucial holiday selling Retailers reporting comps on Nov. 29 cited Sandy for Partners, said. season. By Alexandra Steigrad the soft sales, including Macy’s Inc., Nordstrom Inc. and He added Sandy was merely a blip, and that it wouldn’t Kohl’s Corp. materially impact retailers. November was part of a larger FOR MANY residents of New York, New Jersey and “Despite the largest-volume Thanksgiving weekend trend that indicates a deceleration in spending. the surrounding areas, there was life before Hurricane in our company’s history, we were not able to overcome “We’re in for a lackluster Christmas,” Johnson Sandy, and then, there’s life after. Dubbed the “super- the weak start to the month, which included the dis- said, adding that holiday will likely be up 2.8 per- storm,” Sandy blew through the Northeast at the end ruption of Hurricane Sandy,” said Terry J. Lundgren, cent over last year, which is in line with 2007 levels of October, leaving massive flooding on the coastline, Macy’s chairman, president and chief executive officer. of 2.5 percent growth. power outages that lasted for days — in some cases “ Ye t we remain on track to deliver a very strong sales Whether consumer spending is slowing naturally, or weeks — and damage so severe that freestanding hous- performance in the fourth quarter.” if Sandy’s damage is a catalyst for the pullback, analysts es and businesses were reduced to rubble. Macy’s finished November with a 0.7 percent de- did acknowledge the storm’s effect on retail. No one predicted the gravity of the storm or how it cline in comparable-store sales, below the 1.5 percent “I don’t think the impact of Sandy can be ignored,” would impact the region. New York Gov. Andrew Cuomo, advance estimated by analysts. said Matthew Rahn, a principal at A .T. Kearney’s re- estimating damage at more than $40 billion, asked Nordstrom also recorded a rare decline as comps tail practice. “The question is, did that impact holiday Congress for billions in aid. With a toehold in New York fell 1.1 percent, while Kohl’s registered a 5.6 percent spending or did that delay it?” City, the fashion industry felt the impact in ways that dip in monthly sales. That’s still an open question, and one that will un- extended beyond simple store closures. Orders were Saks Inc. lowered its sales forecast for the fourth fold in the coming weeks. More long-term is whether delayed, showroom appointments canceled and offic- quarter, citing Sandy’s impact. Noting that many stores there will be a spending boost from rebuilding efforts. es were closed, sometimes for days, as industry hands were in the path of the storm’s epicenter, Stephen I. One thing is for certain: retailers will have to work worked to cobble their way back to normalcy. Sadove, chairman and ceo, said, “As much as 55 per- their magic not only to clear out any excess inventory in With the all-important holiday season and Black cent of our business was affected. New York alone is 20 advance of Christmas, but also to continue to keep the Friday looming, many retailers reopened as soon as percent. In the Northeast, we saw a substantial drop on cash-strapped consumer coming back for more. Fashion Moments of 2012

March 13: Derek Lam and Tod’s part ways April 16: New York’s Meatpacking its skin care, cosmetics and personal care after six years. District is drawing merchants with more headquarters from Cincinnati to Singapore. mass appeal and tourists, while losing March 14: It’s a fashion face-off of high-fashion tenants such as Stella May 14: Ray-Ban celebrates its 75th First Ladies — Michelle Obama and 3McCartney and Alexander McQueen. anniversary with a new collection and Samantha Cameron, wife of U.K. Prime advertising campaign. Minister David Cameron — during the April 18: The U.S. International Trade Brits’ state visit to the U.S. Commission rules in favor of Louis Vuitton in May 17: Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy a widespread counterfeiting case. follow up their “Black Swan” costume work March 16: Donald Trump releases his with designs for the L.A. Philharmonic’s second fragrance, Success by Trump, April 23: Uptown, the new downtown? An production of “Don Giovanni.” under The Five Star Fragrance Co. influx of younger labels, such as Rag & Bone, Proenza Schouler, Maje and Sandro, give May 22: Failing to get the giant payout, March 20: For her first public speech Madison Avenue a cooler, edgier vibe. Gucci is awarded $4.7 million in its

of her royal career, the Duchess of Cambridge A en three-year legal battle with Guess over its wears a bright blue double-breasted coat by April 2: Betsey Johnson LLC files Chapter similar interlocking “G” logos. Reiss, cinched with a black belt. 11; as a result, the bulk of the designer’s boutiques will close and about 350 staffers May 25: Michael Kors doubles space on March 30: Devout yogi Russell Simmons y s e BA sti A n F are expected to lose their jobs. Madison Avenue with its largest store in introduces Tantris, a new Zen lifestyle brand. the world, which will occupy two floors and

photo B May 8: Dressed to impress, guests measure 6,655 square feet.

March 30: Dolce & Gabbana slaps a celebrate the “Schiaparelli and Prada: Cape Town costume jewelry store with a ▼ Impossible Conversations” exhibition May 29: Guess marks its 30th anniversary. lawsuit over its name: Dolce & Banana. April 9: More than a year after her at The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s exit from French Vogue, Carine Roitfeld annual gala. June 5: The Row, Billy Reid and Reed April 6: Marc Jacobs adds a new says she will launch her own CR Fashion Krakoff take home the night’s top honors fragrance, Dot, to his repertoire. Book magazine. May 11: Procter & Gamble Co. moves at the annual CFDA Awards.

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THE YEAR IN FASHION TOP 10 STORIES

Deal of the Day nearly a year of talks. This year saw a rush of merg- NO CROCODILE TEARS: Lacoste I’ll Have a Kors ers and acquisitions and with family shareholders last month two weeks left, it’s likely that agreed to sell their shares to Swiss retail group Maus Frères SA in a deal The hottest fashion IPO in recent years has set the bar sky-high. By Evan Clark we’re not finished yet. Many were smaller deals — less valued at $1.3 billion. Maus already “BE LIKE MIKE” used to be a pitch for Pianoforte Holding and Stefano Ricci. than $100 million — while oth- owned 35 percent of the capital Gatorade with Michael Jordan. Brunello Cucinelli romanced investors over ers were significant for the of Lacoste through its subsidiary Devanlay. Now it’s a mantra in fashion, where anyone the course of a year, selling them on his sense of brand or its market position, with a brand has had their sense of self worth luxury and prospects for his brand. The effort such as Lion Capital’s major- CHARMING, INDEED: Ascena reframed by Michael Kors’ public offering. helped the firm overcome European economic ity stake in John Varvatos or Retail Group, formerly The Dress With an accessories-heavy business model concerns and led to a successful IPO in April on TSG Consumer Partners’ sepa- Barn Inc., acquired Charming ripe for retail expansion, designer credibil- the Milan Bourse, with shares up more than 35 rate investments in Rebecca Shoppes Inc. for $890 million. ity and some big-time name rec- percent since the offering. Minkoff and Alexis Bittar. The Charming’s nameplates include Lane ognition from “Project Runway,” Tumi Holdings Inc. caught the following are the top 10 deals Bryant, Cacique, Fashion Bug and shares of Michael Kors Holdings Kors wave and went public in April, where transaction values were Catherines Plus Sizes, although the Ltd. caught fire when they made raising $338 million and valuing the disclosed. —VICKI M. YOUNG Fashion Bug chain has since been their Wall Street debut a year ago. firm at $1.79 billion. But that valua- shuttered. The stock has more than doubled tion has since fallen to $1.48 billion. A NEW ALLIANCE: In June, to $51.60, placing the value of the The Tumi retreat proves — as if Walgreen Co. said it would acquire a VALENTINO’S DAY: Mayhoola 45 percent equity stake in Alliance for Investments, an investment company north of $10 billion. JOHN AQUINO proof were needed — that all IPOs Kors has a price-to-earnings are not equal and many factors de- Boots GmbH in a cash-and-stock vehicle backed by a private investor ratio of 41, pricing the company Michael Kors termine how a stock performs once a deal valued at $6.7 billion. The group from Qatar, agreed to pay much closer to Prada (with a price- PHOTO BY company takes the public plunge. resulting entity has more than $110 $858 million to acquire Valentino to-earnings ratio of 37.8) than, say, Ralph Some don’t get past the starting line. billion in combined revenue and Fashion Group. The deal, between Lauren Corp. (21.9) or Coach Inc. (16.1). High-end jeweler Graff Diamonds pulled more than 11,000 stores in 12 Mayhoola and Red & Black Lux Sarl, The key to Kors’ valuations is its healthy its Hong Kong IPO in May, citing “adverse mar- countries. After setting up the first a company indirectly controlled by global pharmacy-led health and margins and its rapid growth rate. ket conditions,” although analysts also said the the Permira Funds in partnership beauty group, Walgreens has the with the Marzotto family, gave Thing is, luxe or near-luxe brands tend to stock was overpriced. The brand’s ultraluxe ap- option of acquiring the remaining 55 Mayhoola Valentino SpA as well as have good margins and most have relative- peal ran into a slowdown in China’s economy. percent of Alliance in three years. the M Missoni licensed business. ly small businesses and, therefore, room to The much-anticipated IPO of Facebook Inc. VFG’s Hugo Boss and MCS Marlboro grow. This has other brands expecting higher had an epic flop in New York that same month. WARNACO’S NEXT CHAPTER: Classics units remain owned by Red valuations as they sit at the bargaining table The social network came out of the gate at PVH Corp. in October signed a $2.9 & Black. or contemplate an initial public offering. $42.05 and then plummeted almost immedi- billion deal to acquire Warnaco, Investor John Howard, chief executive ately, cooling the market for new offerings reuniting PVH’s Calvin Klein with the ROBOTIC MOVES: Kiva, a officer of Irving Place Capital, called it the headed into summer. Shares are still trading brand’s two largest apparel categories: technology firm that combines “Michael Kors effect.” below $30, although they’ve been gaining as underwear, which Warnaco owned, material -handling with control “Everybody just shakes their head at Kors Facebook’s mobile strategies are inspiring a and jeanswear, for which it held the software to automate services at and says, ‘If Michael Kors is worth that, I’m second look from Wall Street naysayers. license. The acquisition included fulfillment centers that process worth this,’” Howard said. “It’s like every- The IPO market has warmed back up some Speedo, Warner’s and Olga and e-commerce orders, was acquired in body’s a little crazy. Everybody sees what’s and brands with a growth track are still seen as turned PVH into an $8 billion giant. March for $775 million by Amazon. possible in this world when you have a brand hot commodities, but the proposition is some- com Inc. and somehow [they] think4 they have a brand, what different for department stores. Hudson’s COLLECTIVE SPLIT: Collective but there are very few [like] Michael Kors.” Bay Co., comprising The Bay and Lord & Taylor, Brands Inc. in June completed a $2 PRIVATE PL AY: Nike Inc. in Still, many are now looking for — if not the launched on the Toronto Stock Exchange last billion transaction with a consortium of November signed a deal to sell Cole Kors treatment — at least a better payday. month but has seen a modest slide in its price. investors that broke up the company. Haan to private equity firm Apax If Kors was sold as the next Coach, Tory The next big chain expected to go public Wolverine World Wide Inc. acquired Partners for $570 million. The Collective’s Performance + Lifestyle Burch is seen in the investment community is Neiman Marcus Inc. The $4.3 billion com- sneaker giant bought the brand in Group (Sperry Top-Sider, Saucony, 1988 for $95 million in cash and as the next Kors. Plenty of suitors are ready pany is coming off a strong year and has plans Stride Rite and Keds) for just over $1.2 debt. to buy a stake and bankers ready to take the to expand abroad through digital formats to billion, while two private equity firms, company public. For now, the process has supplement its more mature U.S. presence. Blum Capital Partners and Golden Gate TOP OF THE HEAP: Last week, been held up by the firm’s legal wrangling For Neiman’s, it will likely be the lure of luxe Capital, acquired Payless ShoeSource Sir Philip Green completed the sale with Christopher Burch, the designer’s ex- and strong cash flow that draws investors, as and related licensing business for $800 of a 25 percent stake in his Topshop- husband, over his new C. Wonder chain. was the case when private equity firms TPG million. Topman businesses to U.S. private Sun Capital Partners-owned Kellwood Co. and Warburg Pincus acquired the business for equity firm Leonard Green & Partners is said to be considering an IPO for the quick- $5.1 billion, taking it private in 2005. DOUGLAS SAYS YES: German (no relation) for $564 million. The ly growing Vince business, which still is seen Despite the IPO misfires, the Kors offering perfumery, jewelry and fashion deal gave Arcadia Group Ltd., Philip as a good candidate to expand abroad. There still shines brightest. If someone else repli- retail group Douglas Holding AG Green’s investment umbrella, zero are also a slew of European names mull- cates that success, brands might not just rush this month agreed to a $1.9 billion bank debt and a balance sheet that ing the public markets, including Moncler, into offerings, but stampede. marriage proposal from U.S. buyout is cash positive — and a war chest firm Advent International Corp. after for future acquisitions.

June 6: Denying sweatshop allegations, Pierre Cardin, Olivier Theyskens and transforms in the air to a clear mist — by Alexander Wang files its response to a Diane von Furstenberg. the bizarre performer. lawsuit in March alleging New York State labor law violations. July 5: Loath to secede haute supremacy July 13: Valentino is sold to Mayhoola for to the new guy in town, Karl Lagerfeld Investments, a private investor group from June 12: H&M reveals its upcoming wishes Raf Simons well and then rocks it Qatar, for around 700 million euros, or collaboration with Maison Martin Margiela. with a superb Chanel couture show. roughly $900 million. ▼ June 18: Saks Fifth Avenue revamps July 6: Forget glass slippers. Christian July 13: The Capitol Hill controversy its shoe strategy with a refurbished and Louboutin designs a pair of limited-edition, heightens after it’s learned that the uniforms expanded eighth-floor shoe department at 120-mm. heels for a modern-day Cinderella Ralph Lauren designs for the U.S. Olympic

the New York flagship. ANDREW in honor of Walt Disney’s rerelease of athletes were made in China. Lauren, an “Cinderella” on Blu-ray and DVD. Olympic sponsor, has pledged to make June 21: Hedi Slimane’s makeover of uniforms for the 2014 games in the U.S. Yves Saint Laurent includes officially PHOTO BY WIRE/PRESS MILLIGAN/PA IMAGES ASSOCIATION July 11: Marvin Traub, one of retailing’s changing the YSL moniker to Saint Laurent. most famous and innovative merchants who July 16: Daffy’s, the cash-strapped off-price July 2: Fall 2012 couture collections kick led Bloomingdale’s to its trendiest, most chain, will shutter its doors. June 22: Doo-Ri Chung exits her off with Donatella Versace’s Atelier Versace fashionable heights, dies at age 87. namesake label. show at the Ritz Paris, site of so many of ▼ Gianni Versace’s couture triumphs. July 12: Proenza Schouler’s Lazaro June 26: Net-a-porter opens its first Hernandez and Jack McCollough prepare to headquarters outside of the U.K., July 3: There’s a new master in the open their first store, a 2,000-square-foot

landing in a 32,000-square-foot house. Raf Simons launches his Christian space on New York’s Upper Madison Avenue. LEXIE MORELAND space in New York’s Flatiron District. Dior era with his first couture collection for the brand. Guests at the show include July 13: WWD gives a first look at PHOTO BY June 26: Nora Ephron dies at the Marc Jacobs, Alber Elbaz, Riccardo Lady Gaga Fame, the bizarre fragrance age of 71. Tisci, Azzedine Alaïa, Donatella Versace, — a black juice that, when sprayed, 10 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012

SECTION II

THE YEAR IN FASHION TOP 10 STORIES Dance of the Designers The revolving doors in Paris ateliers inspired a stellar season. By Miles Socha

WHILE SOME believers in the Mayan Felicity Jones and Dianna Agron. Long Count Calendar view 2012 as the Chanel Dries Van Balenciaga And there were other standout end of the world, followers of fash- Noten shows, including Dries Van Noten’s ode ion observed new beginnings for a to grunge, and Jacobs for Louis Vuitton, host of talents at the highest levels of who had models arriving and exiting in European fashion. twos on escalators in perfect precision. Two of the most storied and presti- The designer shuffle affected smaller gious couture names in France — Yves houses, too. Sonia Rykiel, now under Saint Laurent and Christian Dior — the ownership of Fung Brands Ltd., welcomed new designers, setting the tapped a hidden talent, Geraldo da stage for one of the most electrifying Conceicao, to become its new artistic Paris seasons in years, and Jil Sander director. Da Conceicao joined Rykiel returned to once again helm her name- from Louis Vuitton, having also worked sake house after an eight-year absence. at Miu Miu and Yves Saint Laurent. Balenciaga also went for change, Fashion’s revolving door also swung naming Alexander Wang its new cre- at Azzaro, which said in October it was

ative director after parting ways with GIANNONI GIOVANNI parting ways with its creative director, Nicolas Ghesquière, who logged a stel- Mathilde Castello Branco, after a two- lar 15-year tenure at the house and will season collaboration. A successor has no doubt resurface soon, either launch- PHOTOS BY yet to be named. ing a signature brand or landing at an- Vionnet also bid adieu to its creative other famous brand. The seismic changes began erupt- head of design at Ermenegildo Zegna, directors Barbara and Lucia Croce after ing during Milan Fashion Week in with responsibility for that brand’s fash- a less than a year, and the brand’s ma- February, when acclaimed designer ion show as well as for the Ermenegildo jority owner, Goga Ashkenazi, has taken Raf Simons was ousted as creative di- Zegna Couture collection. on the role of chairwoman and creative rector at Jil Sander to make way for Simons’ arrival at Dior came after a director. And Christopher Kane part- the return of its founder, and when protracted search. The French house ed company with Versus, as Donatella YSL confirmed that Hedi Slimane — is said to have considered several can- Versace plans to design the collection in who ignited Dior Homme during a sev- didates — and contemplated moving collaboration with various young design- en-year stint and then devoted himself Marc Jacobs over from Louis Vuitton ers and stylists. to photography for five years — would — before ultimately settling on the According to Paris-based industry return to fashion design and become Belgian design star, prized for his de- consultant Jean-Jacques Picart, it’s no its new creative director. 5votion to modernism and freewheeling coincidence that studios have been in The latter appointment was widely approach to minimal design. so much flux. applauded, particularly by YSL stal- A host of designers, including “Since 2008, the entire world is chang- warts like Pierre Bergé and Betty Alber Elbaz and Jacobs, turned out for ing faster and faster. When the world Catroux. It was indeed a second com- Simons’ Dior couture debut last July, changes, fashion changes too,” he said. ing: Slimane had been the acclaimed staged in a townhouse wallpapered “Consumers have already changed their designer of Yves Saint Laurent Rive with a million fresh flowers. relationship with the offers of the brands. Gauche Homme in the late Nineties. But the ready-to-wear shows in late They don’t buy the same way as before. The development displaced Stefano September were the main event, with Their desire is no longer excited in the Pilati, who had succeeded Tom Ford at many designers raising the bar on same way and with the same formulas. YSL and helped the firm climb out of its their productions and collections so And when the desire is more difficult to debt hole and become a top-of-mind re- Slimane and Simons would not steal create, the brands are asking to them- source for leather goods and footwear. all the thunder. selves if their designers are still the most It was an elegant transition, with Chanel had 13 wind turbines churn- capable to create desirable collections.” Pilati offering his best wishes to Slimane ing over its runway at the Grand Palais, Paco Rabanne, Leonard, Cerruti, Saint — and landing on his feet a few months and Miuccia Prada pulled in a bevy of C.P. Company and Rena Lange were Laurent Dior later with a plum appointment: He starts hot actresses for her front row, includ- among other European names that had Jan. 1 as creative director of Agnona, and ing Emma Stone, Amanda Seyfried, designer comings and goings. Fashion Moments of 2012

July 16: Barneys New York opens its July 20: After five seasons consulting Aug. 10: Bigger must be better. Macy’s house’s newest women’s fragrance. new shoe department, a 22,000-square- on Tommy Hilfiger’s women’s runway Herald Square opens a major foot expanse that runs the width of a collection and accessories, Peter Som portion of “the world’s largest” Aug. 22: Diane von Furstenberg is city block and brings men’s and women’s gives up the gig. shoe floor, escalating the raging more powerful than Anna Wintour — at styles together. battle among Manhattan’s least according to Forbes. The magazine July 23: Coach Inc. scores a $44 retailers to conquer the ranks the designer 33rd and the Vogue July 17: EBay hooks up with Billy Reid, million judgment against a U.S.- footwear category. editor in chief 51st on its list of the Chris Benz, Fallon, Jonathan Adler, based mother-and-daughter duo world’s most powerful women. Ruffian, Steven Alan and Tibi to create operating Web sites advertising and Aug. 10: Marchesa’s Georgina the eBay Holiday Collective. selling counterfeit Coach handbags. Chapman and Keren Craig plan Aug. 23: At 5 a.m., fans start lining to take their signature glamour up outside the Uniqlo flagship in New July 27: Eighties Italian designer from the red carpet to fragrance York to meet new brand ambassador and Roméo Gigli makes a comeback in counters with their first scent, tennis champ Novak Djokovic. Hong Kong with luxury retailer Joyce. Marchesa Parfume d’Extase. Aug. 27: Business around West 34th Aug. 6: PPR forms a joint venture Aug. 13: Helen Gurley Street returns to normal following the with Yoox SpA to accelerate the online Brown, writer, publisher and fatal shooting of Steven Ercolino, 41, vice development of its various brands. businesswoman, dies in New president of sales at Hazan Import Corp., York at age 90. an accessories firm, near the

▲ Aug. 7: Fashion journalist Anna Empire State Building. STEPHANE FEUGERE Piaggi dies in Milan. Banana Republic recruits Aug. 15: ▲ Narciso Rodriguez to rev up its fashion Aug. 29: Barneys New York teams

PHOTO BY Aug. 9: Diana Vreeland will be offering in an advisory role. with Disney for “Electric Holiday,” the 19th recipient of a Rodeo holiday store windows and campaign July 19: Flat, sparkling or designer? Drive Walk of Style plaque, and Aug. 17: Actress Jessica Chastain is that reimagine classic cartoon Evian taps Diane von Furstenberg to the first editorial figure to be named Yves Saint Laurent’s ambassador characters as runway regulars, such create a 2013 limited-edition bottle. so honored. for Manifesto, the French fashion as Minnie Mouse — in Lanvin. MARCH FORWARD The Spring Fashion Issue.

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Join the party at facebook.com/amazonfashion 14 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012

SECTION II

THE YEAR IN FASHION TOP 10 STORIES London A global spotlight was focused on London. By British models Lily Cole, Karen Elson, Kate Moss and JEWEL SAMAD/AFP/GETTYIMAGES Naomi Campbell at the Olympics closing ceremony. Times Samantha Conti PHOTO BY NEARLY EVERY BRITON will re- signs at the Tower of London in March. cast worldwide, Jonathan Saunders tional designs. They ranged from a member the last 12 months as the year The pieces were engineered to suit dressed Emeli Sandé, who sang the cream Alexander McQueen broderie that the red, white and blue bunting 46 individual sports and all of them hymn “Abide With Me,” while Richard anglaise skirt for a tour of a Rolls- never came down. featured an abstract take on the Union James created the outfit for the Royce factory in Singapore, to a strap- The past year has seen an unprec- Jack in blue and white, with red details. Olympic flag bearer Haile Gebrselassie. less fuchsia and orange dress made edented string of celebrations, from McCartney also last month scooped Two weeks later, during the melody- locally in the Solomon Islands for a the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee, to the the Designer and Brand honors at the heavy closing ceremonies, models in- dinner hosted by the Governor General 2012 Summer Olympics, to the news annual British Fashion Awards for her cluding Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, at his private residence. this month that the Duke and Duchess efforts. Karen Elson, Stella Tennant, Lily The duchess donned dresses by of Cambridge are expecting their first The athletes’ uniforms were not Cole and David Gandy strutted down Jonathan Saunders, Alice by Temperley, child — an heir to the throne. the only show of British fashion on a Union Jack-shaped catwalk to David Project D and a matching skirt and It was a year to remember British London’s Olympics pitch. Bowie’s 1980 song “Fashion.” top by Raoul, in addition to other la- icons — and not just the Queen: The During the opening ceremony in They were dressed in one-of-a-kind bels. And she famously chatted about Rolling Stones and James Bond each July, Christopher Shannon, Michael gold outfits by some of London’s top her love of the designer discount marked 50 years in business. And the van der Ham and Nasir Mazhar — who names, including Alexander McQueen, mecca Bicester Village with a local British Fashion Council celebrated the are all based in London’s East End, Burberry, Christopher Kane, Erdem, Singaporean dignitary minutes after country’s stylish males with the un- not far from the Olympic stadium — Jonathan Saunders, Stephen Jones, stepping off the plane at Changi Airport. veiling in June of London Collections: dressed 350 of the 1,200 dancers who Victoria Beckham, Vivienne Westwood Next year is sure to bring more talk Men, a twice-yearly fashion showcase. took to the stage during a segment that and Paul Smith. of fashion — maternity fashion — as It was Stella McCartney, the first focused on late 20th- and 21st-century While the Olympics put a spotlight on the duchess prepares for the arrival of fashion designer ever to create uni- British music. Their costumes were British talent, it wasn’t so kind to retail. her first child — or children, if indeed forms for Team GB and Paralympics meant to represent the influence of The first week of the 2012 Games was she’s carrying twins. GB, who kicked off Britain’s celebra- British creativity on youth culture. disastrous for central London shops as But 2012 wasn’t only about women tory year when she unveiled her de- For that ceremony, which was broad- tourists and locals heeded the local gov- and women’s fashion: Following this ernment’s warnings about overcrowding year’s successful showcase, the BFC and stayed away from town. Olympics in January will stage the second edi- The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge and Prince spectators, meanwhile, spent their time tion of London Collections: Men, a Harry attend the Diamond Jubilee concert. and money at the Games’ Stratford venue. three-day event with runway shows “As soon as the Olympic torch went and presentations by labels includ- out, people began to buy again — it was ing Alexander McQueen, Tom Ford, 6like the flip of a switch,” said Michael Richard James and J.W. Anderson. Ward, managing director of Harrods, Each year, the British fashion indus- during a roundtable breakfast this fall, try gains momentum. sponsored by Walpole, the organization In a report issued this year, the BFC that promotes British luxury brands. estimated that more than 100 million Throughout the year, the Queen’s pounds, or $161 million, worth of orders Diamond Jubilee celebrations show- is placed each season, with three-quar- cased the royals’ fashion choices — ters of that money coming from abroad.

IMAGES WIRE/PRESS ASSOCIATION and especially those of the Duchess The industry contributes about 21 PA of Cambridge, whose nine-day Jubilee billion pounds, or $33.81 billion, to the trip to Southeast Asia with the duke U.K. economy — twice as much as the

PHOTO BY was a parade of British and interna- publishing or automobile industries. Fashion Moments of 2012

Aug. 30: It’s reported that vice Sept. 9: For the finale of his spring for Ralph Lauren Corp. presidential nominee Paul Ryan’s runway show, Alexander Wang kills the wife, Janna, wears a $169 Talbots lights and lights up the clothes, literally Sept. 11: First Lady Michelle Obama sheath to her husband’s debut on the — they glow in the dark. rockets Laura Smalls’ name onto the national stage at Republican convention. national scene by wearing two dresses Sept. 9: Google cofounder Sergey from the little-known designer during the Sept. 4: Stefano Pilati, who exited as Brin takes a bow with Diane von Democratic National Convention. Yves Saint Laurent’s creative director in Furstenberg at her spring show. He’s March, lands the creative director gig at there to introduce Glass by Google — Sept. 12: After two-and-a-half years Ermenegildo Zegna Group. a new technology that brings the as creative director at Diane von digital world to the user and tries Furstenberg, Yvan Mispelaere leaves ▲ Sept. 6: Katie Holmes is the first to stay out of the way. the company. He will not be replaced, celebrity to sign on as the face of Bobbi with the design team continuing to be Brown Cosmetics, where she’ll also serve Sept. 9: British brand Belstaff opens directed by von Furstenberg. as muse and collaborator. its first store in the U.S., on New York’s Madison Avenue. Sept. 13: Betsey Johnson celebrates Sept. 8: The young fashion brand her 70th birthday with a retrospective- NAHM, designed by Nary Manivong and Sept. 11: A former Gucci network cum-spring-show-cum-party, replete with Alexandria Hilfiger, closes shop. engineer is sentenced to between two a performance by Cyndi Lauper singing and six years in New York state prison for — what else? — “Girls Just Want to Sept. 8: The 15-year anniversary hacking into the luxury brand’s servers, Have Fun.” of Fendi’s Baguette bag is feted in causing more than $200,000 in damage. Los Angeles with a Baguettemania Sept. 13: Mary-Kate and Ashley pop-up shop and three bags Sept. 11: Ralph Lauren becomes a Olsen announce they will launch STEPHEN SULLIVAN commissioned from artists Chaz national corporate sponsor for PBS’ the first fragrance under their Bojorquez, Kenny Scharf and Pae White, “Masterpiece” drama series. It Elizabeth and James label with

and curated by Jeffrey Deitch. PHOTO BY represents the first TV sponsorship Sephora in March. © Olivier Roller

From Tuesday 12 to Thursday 14 February 2013 / spring summer 14 / The World’s Premier Fabric Show™ Parc d’Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte France / T. 1 [646] 351-1942 / [email protected] www.premierevision.com 16 WWD monday, december 10, 2012

SECTION II

the year in fashion top 10 stories Mobile Mojo Tablets are driving momentum in m-commerce. By Rachel Strugatz

MOBILE CONTINUES TO to the firm, a 17 percent experience varies by screen, according be a game-changer in retail. increase in e-commerce to research conducted by the firm ear- So much so that eBay spending year-over-year — lier this year that shows tablets have Inc.’s vice president of mo- also making it the second 20 times the conversion rate of smart- bile, Steve Yankovich, says time this holiday that online phones. Additionally, watch and jew- m-commerce is solely re- sales exceeded $1 billion in elry brands constitute 11 percent of all sponsible for changing the one day. tablet sales, L2 reported in June — the retail calendar, kicking off IBM Corp. revealed Nov. highest proportion of any industry. the online holiday shopping 27 that almost one-fifth of “One of the things that’s led to this season earlier than ever. consumers used a mobile explosion hasn’t been smartphone sales, Although Cyber Monday device to visit a retailer’s it’s been the tablet,” Mullen said. “The is still the biggest online site (an increase of more tablet is the device I think that has re- shopping day of the year, than 70 percent from 2011) ally spurred the mobile numbers up- it’s being thought less as and 13 percent of sales for wards. If you look at the actual [sales] the official day for online the day were conducted on being conducted on the small screen shopping, and more as part a mobile device. The iPad [smartphones], it’s still relatively small.” of a week of heavy online was responsible for 90.5 She differentiates between smart- spending activity that’s percent of all tablet traf- phone and tablet usage, noting that 60 starting to pick up right fic and 7 percent of online percent of smartphone searches have after Thanksgiving dinner. Sixty percent of shopping overall. some sort of local intent. To her, this According to eBay, which smartphone searches “The tablet is the most suggests that retailers and brands have projects $10 billion in mo- have some sort of transformative e-commerce a better opportunity to influence brick- bile sales by year’s end local intent. [channel] seen since the ad- and-mortar purchases on small screens (more than double that vent of e-commerce, and we than actually seeing mobile transactions. of 2011), Black Friday mobile sales see traffic, sales and conversion rates She cites Sephora as effectively Sephora’s mobile app. this year were 2.5 times higher than on the iPad continuing to explode,” using the7 smartphone to enhance the just in terms of consummating pur- last, with the site offering its iPhone said Maureen Mullen, director of re- in-store experience. The beauty re- chases, but changing how consumers app users exclusive access to mobile search and advisory at New York tailer’s app, which has seen more than are shopping in general,” Mullen said, deals through Monday evening. Cyber University think tank two million downloads drawing a comparison to Amazon ver- Monday saw more than a 200 percent Luxury Lab, or L2. since 2009, allows con- sus other brands and retailers. “They increase in mobile transactions, com- According to Mullen, sumers to get more [Amazon] are investing 70 percent of pared with the same day last year. almost one in four Web products and link to their capital in fulfillment operations PayPal reported global payment vol- site visits on Black their Insider Rewards in technology. It’s not the flashy creative ume tripled and GSI Commerce saw a Friday occurred from a while they physically site, it’s how can you get product in peo- 287 percent increase in mobile sales, non-PC device (either a shop — which is how ple’s hands as quickly as possible.” year-over-year. smartphone or tablet). Mullen sees the role of But enter eBay Now, eBay’s most EBay’s biggest mobile shopping day This number is up 16 the smartphone within recent mobile effort at welding m-com- to date was Dec. 2 — outpacing Black percent from 2011. the retail landscape merce and the brick-and-mortar expe- Friday and Cyber Monday. PayPal re- She emphasized that right now. rience — which can provide product ported global payment volume on this even though mobile Amazon commands delivery in as little as one hour after day surpassed that of Cyber Monday by traffic sales have bal- more than one-third a mobile purchase is made. The tech- $1 million. looned — overindexing of the world’s m-com- nology software launched this summer ComScore Inc. reported Dec. 5 that across luxury and fash- merce sales — and in San Francisco and in New York last online sales for the holiday season — ion specifically because Mullen doesn’t expect month. Via geo-sensing location tech- the period from Nov. 1 to Dec. 2 — have of the demographic sur- this to change. nology from Milo and seamless pay- reached $21.35 billion, a 14.4 percent rounding ownership — “Amazon has com- ment options from PayPal, consumers spike from last year. Cyber Monday not all screens are cre- pletely transformed are eligible for same-day shipping from sales took in $1.46 billion according ated equal. The mobile EBay Now shopping behavior, not hundreds of retailers. Fashion Moments of 2012

Sept. 14: Oscar de la Renta takes Oct. 2: With YSL references everywhere, Oct. 8: Yoox Group launches a Chinese Oct. 11: Stephen Colbert talks to WWD, out a full-page ad in WWD to publish Karl Lagerfeld creates an illustrated “No version of its e-commerce site at Yoox.cn offering some presidential advice along an “open letter” that takes Cathy Smoking Here” sign at Chanel’s Rue with capsule collections and end-of- the way: “Obama maybe should take a Horyn to task for calling him a hot Cambon studios. “We don’t have to do season clothing and accessories from top Red Bull. Get your head in the game. For dog and alleging he copied Raf smoking,” he says. “Hedi Slimane really designers worldwide. Mitt, I would just keep grinning. He’s a Simons’ styles at Dior in her does it well.” very handsome man. He’s got excellent review of his spring show. Oct. 8: Queen Elizabeth II approves an hair. As long as you keep concentrating honorary award that will make Bernard on the smile and the hair, then you don’t Sept. 18: Rebekka Bay, a former top Arnault, chairman and chief executive think too much about what he’s saying.” designer at H&M, is named creative officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis director and executive vice president for Vuitton and French citizen, a Knight Oct. 19: Level Shoe District, the world’s Gap Global Design. Commander of the Most Excellent Order largest shoe store, opens in Dubai Mall

Giannoni Giovanni of the British Empire. with more than 96,000 square feet of ▲ Sept. 24: Jil Sander presents her space and a selection of up to 15,000 first women’s collection in eight years for Oct. 8: A dispute over a 400-item different styles at any one time. photo by the house that bears her name — but no portfolio of Yves Saint Laurent’s drawings longer her ownership. and personal items erupts, involving Pierre Bergé; Fabrice Thomas, a Sept. 27: Comme des Garçons’ Rei former Saint Laurent lover; a German Kawakubo will create a range of covers for businessman, and a possible police iPads and Macbooks in collaboration with investigation and criminal complaint. Paper Rain. ▲ Oct. 11: Taylor Swift’s empire Oct. 1: Swiss label Akris fetes its continues to grow with a three-year 90th birthday in Paris with guests like partnership with Keds. The singer will Charlene, Princess of Monaco, and Swiss play a pivotal role in the new direction politician Doris Leuthard. of the brand.

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18 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012

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THE YEAR IN FASHION TOP 10 STORIES

a 21.8 percent sales spike. Socks and tie and dress shoes. And he’s em- hosiery have risen 11.9 percent, un- bracing brands with a rich American derwear is up 6.7 percent, outerwear heritage, giving a boost to labels High-Low Fling Man on up 5.8 percent and bottoms up 5.7 such as Brooks Brothers, Hickey percent. Interestingly, tailored cloth- Freeman, Woolrich, Pendleton, ing is actually slightly down so far in Macintosh and others. The collaboration between the year, dipping 1.97 percent to $4.41 This has opened up a window of Target and Neiman Marcus Fire billion from $4.49 billion last year. opportunity for stores. made an unusual pairing. New looks and new Earlier in the year, neckwear was In the spring, Barneys New York particularly strong. For the 12 months tweaked its tailored-clothing floor, By Sharon Edelson. customers are propelling ended in March, neckwear sales mixing sportswear and clothing a resurgence in the jumped a remarkable 23 percent to from classic vendors such as Brioni “STRANGE BEDFELLOWS” and “Opposites $701.2 million, according to NPD. and Kiton for the first time. But it Attract” blared the headlines when Target and men’s business. The results are being felt across re- was certainly not alone. Saks Fifth Neiman Marcus in July unveiled a joint collec- By Jean E. Palmieri tail, with stores from luxury retailers Avenue this fall completed a reno- tion of designer holiday gifts. The to the more moderate chains experi- vation of its flagship, merging all new odd couple said they were MEN’S WEAR is on a roll. encing an uptick. And while the third classifications from its core vendors simply two retailers with an appre- Driven in large part by slim sil- quarter was a bit of an anomaly, with into lifestyle shops. “We don’t have a ciation for great design, developing houettes in tailored clothing and fur- major men’s chains stumbling a bit, suit department and we don’t have inspired products and exploiting nishings — and a fashion-conscious most retailers believe the momentum a sportswear department anymore,” each other’s strengths. young guy — the once-plodding men’s will continue into 2013. In the period said Eric Jennings, men’s fashion In Target’s case, it’s exposure sector is running at a sprinter’s clip. ended Oct. 27, The Men’s Wearhouse director. “Men have so many more and production know-how. With Vivid colors in classifications such Inc. missed analysts’ expectations and options in the way they dress today.” 1,781 U.S. stores, Target can put as jeans and khakis, military themes, reduced its guidance for the fourth Earlier, Saks had renovated its the collection in front of 2.5 mil- heritage brands and updated patterns quarter despite a 22.5 percent rise accessories area to capitalize on the lion pairs of eyes daily. It also have also boosted the sportswear sec- in net income and a 7.9 percent in- trend in this popular category. “Men knows how to manufacture with- tor. Even categories such as hosiery crease in sales. The week before, Jos. are now asking what the right bags out paying an arm sleeve and pant A. Bank Clothiers Inc. said net income and shoes are,” said Tom Ott, Saks’ leg. Neiman’s, for its part, brings fell 11.2 percent on an 11.1 percent senior vice president and general cachet to the 9table. The retailer gain in sales. The business, notably, merchandise manager of men’s. operates 42 stores in affluent lo- was highly promotional. Not to be outdone, Bloomingdale’s cales and has the clout to work Even so, the retailers said con- this fall overhauled the furnish- with most designers, who consider temporary tailored clothing and ings and accessories area at its 59th it fashion retail’s holy grail. dress shirts continued to drive sales. Street flagship, installing main-floor Target + Neiman Marcus is an Doug Ewert, chief executive officer shops for Gucci, Prada and Louis unprecedented effort. Not only did of Men’s Wearhouse, said the “growth Vuitton and refreshing the assortment a mass merchant and luxury spe- drivers include modern and slim-fit for standbys such as Thomas Pink, cialty store hook up, but the num- suits and sport coats.” Neal Black, Turnbull & Asser and others. David ber of designers and products was daunting — 24 Shorter ceo of Jos. A. Bank, also pointed to Fisher, executive vice president of Council of Fashion Designers of America design- trunks like 8suits as a top performer. men’s wear, said the rejiggering is a ers created at least 50 gifts. these from During the year, retailers invested reflection of the continued strength in “We have never been involved with anything Parke & in upgrading their stores the men’s business, which has like this with another retailer,” said Kathee and tweaking their mer- had “incredible growth” over Tesija, Target’s executive vice president of Ronen are chandising strategies to the past few years. “We’ve got merchandising. “Certainly, Neiman Marcus has

driving the KRISTIINA WILSON appeal to a younger guy some grease on the wheel,” great relationships with all of these designers. swimwear who is seeking an updat- he said. Twenty-four at one time might have been a little business. ed shopping experience. Bergdorf Goodman com- tricky for us.” PHOTO BY He’s comfortable mixing pleted a yearlong project that “Target really has the supply chain to help and swimwear have found fans, as bold brands and classifica- resulted in a completely new get these products designed and manufactured patterns in socks and shorter lengths tions, seamlessly merging third-floor contemporary de- at the quality level we both want,” said Karen in swimsuits have taken hold. New suits and suit separates signer department and the Katz, president and chief executive officer of brands and updated fabrics have given to create his own individ- creation of a shoe library on Neiman Marcus. “We don’t do very much direct life to the men’s underwear category. ual style. He’s even hav- the first floor that tripled the sourcing. That is not necessarily a strength of Men’s sales through the end of ing an indelible impact space devoted to that catego- ours. We could give lots of introductions to all October have risen 4.4 percent to on the more traditional RODOLFO MARTINEZ r y. As ceo Joshua Schulman the designers, but from a supply chain perspec- $55.91 billion from $53.57 billion in shopper whose wardrobe summed, “[With men’s among tive, [Target] is extremely well-equipped.”

2011, according to The NPD Group. now seems obsolete. PHOTO BY the] fastest-growing catego- Target has a long history of working with This is on top of a 4.2 percent gain in The new men’s wear ries of business industry- designers, first through its Go International 2011. By category, swimwear has led customer thinks nothing Gucci’s slim suit, wide, it was the appropriate program and more recently with The Shops at the way, with a jump in sales of 22.3 of wearing a suit jacket Prada’s shirt and time to make the investment Target. The mass retailer has also partnered percent, followed by sleepwear with with a denim shirt, bow Alexander Olch’s tie. and statement.” with luxury retailers in the past. Target in 2008 Fashion Moments of 2012

Oct. 24: Sisters Penélope and Mónica Nov. 8: Labelux sells the Derek Nov. 20: Versus parts with Christopher Cruz line up a design collaboration with Lam brand back to founders Lam and Kane to focus on a seasonless line Agent Provocateur for its first diffusion Jan-Hendrik Schlottmann. Terms are with a digital element, capsule line, called L’Agent. not disclosed. collections, co-branding projects and limited editions designed by Donatella Oct. 29: Neiman Marcus Group’s Karen GIANNONI GIOVANNI Nov. 12: Barneys New York unveils Versace and rotating designers, stylists Katz unveils her true feelings about the Disneyfied fashion characters, including and creative talents.

competition: “I have been known to use PHOTO BY Ed Filipowski, Lady Gaga, Anna Dello a Neiman Marcus bag when I am going Russo, Cathy Horyn and WWD’s own to hyperventilate,” she joked at Fashion Bridget Foley, as part of a short film for Group International’s Night of Stars. “But its “Electric Holiday” campaign. if I am going to be really sick, I pick up a Saks Fifth Avenue bag.” Nov. 13: The Council of Fashion Designers of America and Vogue Nov. 4: Ralph Lauren Corp. plans to magazine join numerous fashion houses shutter its Rugby brand. Fourteen stores and launch Fashion for Sandy Relief, and the e-commerce site will close over an initiative that serves as a collective the balance of fiscal 2013. industry fund-raiser. Earlier, Ralph Lauren and Coach Inc. both donate $2 million ▲ Nov. 6: PPR reveals Nicolas each to Sandy relief efforts, while Michael Ghesquière will exit Balenciaga, the house Kors, PVH Corp, the Samuel I. Newhouse he helped rebuild. Less than a month later, Foundation, Hearst Corp. and Time Warner ▲ Nov. 21: Yoko Ono reveals she Alexander Wang is named creative director. Inc. each give $1 million. is creating a limited-edition men’s clothing line for Opening Ceremony Nov. 7: Delaware judge Leo Shrine weighs Nov. 13: Holt Renfrew, Canada’s with 18 styles based on a series of in on the Burches’ legal tiffs, calling them premier luxury specialty store chain, sketches she did for John Lennon a “drunken WASP fest.” marks its 175 birthday. in 1969. WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012 19

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introduced its first line of eco-friendly apparel off ” retail concept C. Wonder, while designed by Rogan Gregory, putting it on sale Fight Club he accuses her of keeping him from first at Barneys New York. pursuing other business ventures as Both Target and Neiman’s revved up the he tried to sell his stake in her com- hype machine. No expense was spared for the Was it something in the pany, which they founded. ad campaign, with Craig McDean photograph- In mid-October, the year-and-a- ing print ads and directing TV commercials. water? Cattiness ran half-long war between Yves Saint Karlie Kloss was featured, prancing in black rampant this year, with Laurent SA and Christian Louboutin vinyl leggings among the gifts and popping out lawsuits, name-calling and SA over red soles ended, when YSL of a white box, gift-like, with a huge bow on top dropped the lawsuit against the cob- of her head. “The Target + Neiman Marcus col- that now-infamous fashion bler, after he had sued the French laboration needed an execution that was at the slap. By Marc Karimzadeh fashion house in April 2011, claim- highest level of fashion,” said Robin Derrick, ing that it infringed on the footwear executive creative director at Spring Studios. brand’s trademark when it sold red IF THERE’S ONE fashion lesson to pumps with red soles. YSL can con- be learned in 2012, it would be this: tinue to sell the monochrome shoes. Products in Keep your lawyer on speed-dial. Other firms that squared off in- the Target + The year had a heaping helping cluded Gucci and Guess, with the Neiman Marcus of name-calling and nasty lawsuits Italian fashion house winning part collection. that often veered from the profes- of its trademark infringement law- sional into the personal sphere suit against Guess and its licensees, — and one memorable physical as- including Marc Fisher and Signal sault. Together, these incidents gave Products Inc. Then there is the ongo- credence to the cliche that fashion is ing legal tangle that involves Macy’s one bitchy business. Inc., J.C. Penney Co. Inc. and Martha Take, for instance, the melee Stewart over the two retailers’ sepa- at the Zac Posen runway show in rate arrangements with the house- Tor y Burch is embroiled in a legal September. When fire marshals hold diva. dispute over ex-husband Christopher STEVE EICHNER 9 pulled 60 chairs before the show, it In Milan, Roberto Cavalli and Burch’s C. Wonder store (below). left the p.r. team at HL Group scram- Giorgio Armani got into a tiff, with PHOTO BY bling to seat some guests. Marie- Cavalli unleashing his fury José Susskind-Jalou, president of at Armani’s decision to the Jalou publishing house, and her shift his show date and call- JOHN AQUINO daughters, Jennifer Eymere and ing him the “Little King.” Vanessa Bellugeon of Jalouse and Armani retorted: “Cavalli

PHOTO BY L’Officiel magazines, respectively, should be quiet, because the were not pleased, and a heated argu- ‘Little King’ could start to The program has garnered a few sour re- ment between them and HL Group get angry.” views, however. In a Dec. 6 research note, cofounder Lynn Tesoro10 landed the New York Times critic Deutsche Bank analyst Charles Grom conclud- p.r. veteran a slap in the face. Cathy Horyn found herself ed that “the collection is indeed off to a much If that weren’t shocking enough, in flaps on both sides of the worse-than-expected start” and selling better at Eymere’s post-slap recap to WWD Atlantic. In Paris, she butt- Neiman’s than at Target. In response, a spokes- certainly was. “It was a small slap,” ed heads with new Saint ERICKSEN KYLE man for the mass retailer said, “This collection she said. “It was not strong. I didn’t Laurent creative director

was never intended to be a one-day shopping hurt her, it was just to humiliate Hedi Slimane. She wasn’t PHOTO BY event. A lot of the media have been benchmark- her. She humiliated my mom, and I invited to the show but still ing this program to [the popular September humiliated her in front of her crew. gave the collection she saw online a said that “Mr. de la Renta is far more 2011] Missoni partnership, and it’s not. We Voilà. I just said at the end, ‘Now you tepid review. Slimane tweeted that a hot dog than an eminence grise of more than doubled the inventory for Target + know you don’t f--k with French peo- Horyn is “a schoolyard bully and also American fashion.” De la Renta was Neiman Marcus and put product limitations in ple.’” Tesoro, in turn, filed a lawsuit a little bit of a stand-up comedian. not amused. He responded to Horyn place” so consumers would be able to shop the against the Parisian trio to recover “As far as I’m concerned, she will by taking out a full-page ad in WWD, collection through the holiday season. damages for “assault, battery, emo- never get a seat at Saint Laurent, but writing an open letter: “If you have The Target spokesman said anywhere from a tional distress, slander and/or libel.” might get 2-for-1 at Dior,” he blasted. the right to call me a hot dog, why do handful to 150 people lined up at most stores on She wasn’t the only one seeking “I don’t mind [criticisms], but they I not have the right to call you a stale Dec. 1, the day the line launched, and traffic on- legal action, as acrimonious lawsuits have to come from a fashion critic, three-day-old hamburger?” line was similar to Black Friday. “This is the first made headlines throughout the year. not a publicist in disguise.” If that weren’t spicy enough, Lady time we pulled a collection into one area, like Case in point: the ongoing battle of No feud, however, was quite as Gaga added her two cents in support a shop within a shop,” he said. “We heard from the Burches. Tory Burch alleges that tasty as the one that flared up be- of the designer, which then prompt- some guests that it wasn’t as easy to find, so we her ex-husband Chris Burch pur- tween Oscar de la Renta and Horyn ed Horyn’s beau, Art Ortenberg, to worked quickly to relocate the shop and make it posely gleaned information about her during September’s New York lash out at the singer. As he put it, more visible.” brand in order to create the “knock- Fashion Week. In her review, she had “Grow up, Gaga.”

Robert E. Gray Jack Mulqueen IN MEMORIAM Alan Greco Anna Piaggi The following people from the Lea Gottlieb Alberto Pinto TIM JENKINS Herbert Grossman Steven F. Powers worlds of fashion, retail, beauty Joseph M. Haggar Jr. Yvonne Presser and media died this year. George R. Hearst Jr. Janet Reis PHOTO BY David Helpern Don Robbie Nicola Bardelle Robert “Bob” Hertel Estelle Ellis Rubinstein Shale Baskin Jeffrey Johnson David Rubin ▲ Nov. 26: L’Wren Scott unveils the Lillian Bassman Zelda Kaplan Gloria Sachs costumes she created for beau Mick Antoine Bernheim Harriet Kassman David Salem Jagger for the “50 & Counting: The Philippe Paul Camille Bertrand Herb Kelhoffer Vidal Sassoon Rolling Stones Live” tour. Frank Eugene “Gene” Bobo Jr. Howard Kissel Arnold Seckler Dick Braeger Carole Kotler Harriet Selwyn Nov. 27: Comme des Garçons’ Rei Joseph E. Brooks Lester Kronfeld Sandra Seroy Kawakubo collaborates with Hermès on Helen Gurley Brown Arnold Kramer Jr. Leonardo Servadio two limited-edition collections of silk carré Ray Brual Charla Krupp Anthony Shadid scarves dubbed Comme des Carrés. Ross Burton Edouard Leclerc Arthur Ochs Sulzberger Alden Clanahan Jacques Levy Eliana Tranchesi Dec. 5: Ambassador Anna? After her Nicole Crassat Giuseppe Marenzi Marvin Traub outspoken support for President Obama Dorino Della Valle Giannino Marzotto Alan Tucker and hefty sums donated to and raised for Nora Ephron Susan J. Masterson Keith Varty his reelection, rumors swirl that the Vogue Steven Ercolino Terry Mayer Barbara Warner editor in chief could be under consideration Ricardo Fisas John Robert Miller Lawrence Wechsler for an ambassadorship to the Court of St. George Friedman Nolan Miller Jack Weinstock James’s, or to France. She will certainly Martin Thomas Gattins Bill Moggridge Barbara D’Arcy White know what to wear to state dinners. Aron Goldfarb Neillí Mulcahy Allan Zwerner 20 WWD monday, december 10, 2012

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the year in fashion beauty’s big moments Beauty CEOs in the Hot Seat This year saw high-profile executive exits and endless speculation. By Molly Prior

AccusAtions flew. wall street Mccoy took over as Avon’s ceo in April August, Michele scannavini, the for- pointed fingers. Board members grum- from Johnson & Johnson, with Jung mer president of coty Prestige, as- bled. And revolving doors spun. it was a moving into the role of executive chair- sumed the top spot. Beetz’s departure tumultuous year for a handful of major man. But not before coty inc. came call- was seen as abrupt, as it happened Andrea Jung Bob McDonald beauty firms. ing with a bold bid to acquire the much after the initial iPo paperwork had Ackman took aim at the company’s per- the excitement started early in 2012 larger company. Avon rebuffed the offer, been filed in June. Beetz — who grew formance and that of McDonald, calling when Avon Products inc. began search- prompting coty to go down the path to- the company’s sales nearly threefold P&G “a very fat and bloated company.” ing for a new chief executive officer to ward an initial public offering. to $4.1 billion since his arrival in 2001 Despite the public call for a leader- replace Andrea Jung after a series of Despite Avon’s recent lackluster — is widely credited as the architect ship change, P&G’s board pronounced executional missteps and disappointing earnings, Mccoy promised to tackle the of the post-elizabeth taylor celebrity it was standing by McDonald and his earnings. Jung, who had served as the company’s challenges with a slow and fragrance revival and the mastermind strategy to fix what ails the $83.7 billion very visible face of the company to both steady approach. “we know what the behind coty’s aim to move deeper into firm. McDonald, for his part, waved off wall street and the firm’s 6,000 direct- problems are and they are solvable,” skin care and cosmetics. the criticism and ploughed ahead with sales representatives for 12 years, faced she told wall street analysts in october. Procter & Gamble co. chairman, a turnaround plan designed to rebuild an unrelenting onslaught of criticism Jung plans to step down as executive president and ceo Bob McDonald also market share, accelerate product in- for Avon’s mounting troubles. they in- chairman at the end of this year. found himself fending off criticism in novation and cut costs. Dubbed the 40- cluded an ongoing investigation by the things at coty weren’t quiet for 2012. the consumer products giant’s 20-10 plan, the strategy is focused on securities and exchange commission long either. several months after coty lackluster performance and market- P&G’s 40 largest businesses, top 20 in- tied to allegations that the company began the process for its long-awaited share losses attracted the attention of novations and 10 most important devel- bribed government officials in china, iPo, the company’s ceo, Bernd Beetz, activist investor william Ackman of oping markets, all while wringing out and possibly in other countries. sheri stepped down from the top post. in Pershing square capital Management. $10 billion in costs by 2016. Hair Aging: Celebrity Fragrances on the Move By Julie nAuGhton sephora. in the u.s., the brand The New Frontier had a very fast start and then lost this wAs the YeAr of the ce- some ranks while other initia- By BelisA silvA lebrity beauty merry-go-round: tives were hitting the market. it some jumped on, some jumped off. remains in the season to date one MAss hAir manufacturers in 2012 began looking the scent licenses of Justin of the best initiatives of the year.” to the skin-care world for inspiration on a bevy Bieber and nicki Minaj moved Adam levine, who had in the of new products. incorporating antiaging ingredi- from Give Back Brands to past publicly disdained celebrity ents once reserved for facial creams, brands like elizabeth Arden inc., while coty fragrances — he tweeted the fol- l’oréal Paris, Pantene and nexxus have begun acquired Katy Perry’s fragrance lowing on March 5, 2011: “i also to roll out hair-care collections designed to turn licensee, Gigantic Brands. Avril would like to put an official ban on back the clock, right down to the roots. lavigne, whose fragrances are celebrity fragrances. Punishable for its part, l’oréal Paris’ Advanced hair care done with Procter & Gamble, by death from this point forward.” collection, which will be launched in January, fea- signed on to create salon effects — announced he is doing one for tures ingredients like hyaluronic and arginine, real nail Polish strips for sally iD Perfumes. the project, a fra- and is built around the idea of adding treatment hansen in April. grance masterbrand called 222 by items into consumers’ daily hair-care regimens. “this is pretty much the coolest Adam levine, is due out in May. “right now, u.s. women believe that only skin thing, because i also do clothing — Lady Gaga “People do this to make money, care warrants an ongoing regimen,” said l’oréal i love clothing, nails and fragrance, at Macy’s. i’m not going to lie to you,” he told Paris usA president hair, makeup, all that stuff,” said wwD in March. “obviously, there’s Karen fondu. “they see lavigne during an exclusive phone a financial part to this as well. But hair as a quick fix when, interview with wwD .“i was really the stage where i thought it was there are other things that come really, it deserves and excited about the salon effects good enough. And if i’m not going into play, too, and i’m not just needs the same multi- real nail Polish strips — especial- to wear it, i’m not going to sell it.” going to sign off on something if i step approach as skin ly since they’re superquick. in her typical shock-producing don’t love it. i want to tailor it to care to be at its best.” “i’ll be flying on a plane and be way, Gaga told wwD of her scent, me as much as humanly possible.” Meanwhile, Pantene’s like, ‘s--t i need to do my nails,’” a “i don’t think it really matters how And then there was the story expert range, launched candid lavigne added in January. it smells. i’m not trying to be funny, heard around the world (literally): in november, is de- “i can do these on a plane; i’ve but i guess what i’m trying to say the interview Katie holmes gave signed to tackle the side done them in the car. the de- is that in the celebrity fragrance to wwD in september, the first effects from hair aging signs that i came up with are my world, you’re buying a fragrance after her high-profile divorce from t ho M as i annaccone with skin-care-inspired personal style and vibe — they’re because you like the celebrity. so tom cruise. A personable holmes technology, discovered rock ’n’ roll and fun and bright the challenge for me was to say — who is working with the Bobbi in partnership with olay and colorful. Yo u have sparkles that i’m going to create something Brown brand as its first celebrity antiaging experts. and little stars — they are cute.… that i think you would love if you face and collaborator — talked “i was not expecting i think this offers self-expression, didn’t like me. [Also,] it’s a nice and about everything from holmes & how my hair was chang- and it’s a really smart, versatile expensive way for steven Klein Yang, her fashion line with her

ing as i got older. [it] way to show your style.” and nick Knight to take a big p--s longtime stylist Jeanne Yang, to s te V e ichne R ; l ' oR eal by was starting to get dr y, two of the most talked-about, on commercialism.…this is not me how her Midwestern upbring- L’Oréal Paris’ brittle and thinner,” said hotly anticipated fragrances fi- in the bottle — it’s an expression of ing and crafts with her daughter antiaging hair line. courteney cox, the face of nally came to market: Madonna me and my relationship to fame as suri help keep her feet on the g aga by the collection, which was with truth or Dare in April, and a performer. the darkness stays in- ground. “i spray-paint shoe racks, formulated with ingredi- lady Gaga, with fame — said to side the bottle and out comes only because, why not?” But she said ents like caffeine niacinamide and panthenol, com- be the first black-tinted juice on the beautiful parts of fame.” with a laugh that said projects monly found in youth-promising facial products. the market — in August. Both are Despite some grumblings in aren’t always successful: “i think, p elt; Ross Van in January, nexxus will add to the growing produced by coty. the market, renato semerari, ‘oh, i’m a great mom’ — and then trend with Youth renewal, a range of five hair- “the time was right,” Madonna president of coty Beauty, a divi- it doesn’t really pan out the way i care offerings, including a noticeably skin-care- told wwD in April of partner- sion of coty inc., said, “the lady think it’s going to. But the inten- like serum, designed to address eight visible signs ing with coty Prestige. “i’ve been Gaga fame launch has been one tion’s there.” And while it might be of hair aging. working off and on on various of the best launches of the season. expected that holmes would hate “it’s a well known fact that the American pop- fragrances over the years, and the brand has reached top ranks the fourth estate — which basi- ulation is aging,” said David rubin, marketing [have been] approached by a lot in all key markets from Australia, cally stalked her after her divorce

director for hair at unilever. “what we’ve done of companies and have tried to to europe to north America. — she takes it in stride. “there Melanie Dunea; Mc D onal by is dove in deeply on this woman and what are create fragrances. they were al- even in countries where celeb- are a lot of people with much big- the signs of aging hair and to combat them so ways abandoned projects....every rity fragrances have historically ger problems and who are less that women who are getting older can still have time i tried to create the scent i struggled, like france, the brand fortunate,” she told wwD. “i try to

beautiful hair.” was looking for, it never reached positioned itself in the top 10 at keep it all in perspective.” Jung photo by

w10b020a;14.indd 1 12/7/12 8:21 PM 12072012202144 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012 21

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THE YEAR IN FASHION THE HOT PARTIES OF THE YEAR

Poppy Delevingne at Chanel’s “The Little Black Jacket” book party.

Erin Wasson at the Chopard- and Harvey Weinstein-hosted Liberty Ross at the Alexander Mystery party. Wang spring 2013 after party. REVEL REVEL

The chic set had a jam-packed, high-octane year. From the celebratory fetes of fashion weeks to the summer’s bashes, the fall’s gussied-up galas and the decidedly cool Art Basel parties as the year wound down, the social calendar was delightfully dogged. The Eye Donatella Versace and Lady Gaga takes a look at the standout at the Versace Vibe store opening. soirees of 2012.

Minka Kelly and Drew Kanye West and Barrymore at the Kim Kardashian at Los Angeles County Karolina Kurkova Chanel’s Tribeca Jason Wu and Erin Heatherton Museum of Art’s Art at the Costume Film Festival Artists at Bergdorf Goodman’s 111th + Film Gala. Institute gala. Program dinner. Anniversary bash.

Lil’ Kim Lily Donaldson performing at amfAR’s at Opening Cinema Against Ceremony’s AIDS gala. 10-Year Anniversary party.

Rihanna and Stella McCartney at a dinner feting TIM JENKINS AND LEXIE MORELAND STEPHANE FEUGERE, AMY GRAVES, STEVE EICHNER, the London Olympics. PHOTOS BY 22 WWD monday, december 10, 2012

SECTION II

the year in fashion t alking points

“What happened to Jason Wu I’m thinking, ‘Look, if I’m only happens in the West. Can standing next to Karl, Giorgio you imagine if the Chinese press or Ralph, I’ll be in the crowd.’ talked more about a dress than They’re much older, by the way, the leader himself? The political so I have a long way to go.” clients I have all request that I — Tommy Hilfiger, on make something very subdued designers’ influence, March 12 They Said It and not eye-catching. The last thing they want is to outshine “When we opened the store their husbands.” on New York’s Fifth Avenue, I The highly quotable are at it again. Compiled by Dianne M. Pogoda — Chinese couturiere Guo thought that we had realized Pei, Feb. 22 the American dream. In “My entire career, it’s always best lesson in the world — that ‘It’s models off duty!’ I was Japan’s Ginza, it’s the same been like, ‘Oh, [pre-fall is] just a designer is a designer, even a stupid 21-year-old when I “I still feel like a misfit at thing — I think it’s a symbol of a selling collection.’ It has so if she’s designing toothbrushes said that. I didn’t know how to things like this, but a better- the Japanese dream.” many boxes to check and it and hospital gowns.” talk to the press. I’d mention dressed misfit.” — Tadashi Yanai, on Uniqlo, becomes such a chore and I just — Donna Karan, Jan. 17 something like that, and — Michelle Williams at the March 16 hated that. There’s more and they’d blow it up to big, crazy Oscars, Feb. 26 more [to do] for all of us. I look “If there was a Hollywood of extremes. In a certain way, it “ Yo u have to read it. It’s like a at it not only from my point of clothes, this would be it. If you helped us define a look to a “It has taken me a long time to reality show about my life.” view but from [editors’] point want to be a preppie, if you certain audience.” accept that I am not as tall as I — Roberto Cavalli, about his of view, like, Why would you want to be a businessman on — Alexander Wang, Feb. 8 think I am.” blog, March 19 just want to go look at another Wall Street, if you want to be — Paula Abdul, Feb. 29 showroom? What a drag.” a renegade in Utah. This is “I try to stay away from the “I don’t much love the talk of — Stella McCartney, Jan. 10 really about movies to me — media as much as I can....I try “The world is tiny now. In 1981, ‘brand’ and ‘brand managers’ and stories and details.” not to take it too personally, when I was starting out, our — I prefer ‘the magazine’ and “I wanted to work at Women’s — Ralph Lauren, on his fall because I don’t think they do idea of global was Canada. We ‘editors.” Wear Daily, as an illustrator, men’s collection, Jan. 31 it just to me. But as a human thought Holt Renfrew was a — David Remnick, April 2 and went for an interview. being, it feels like that. You feel foreign account.” John Fairchild told me that “People say everything has a like you’re the only one being — Michael Kors, March 6 “I have to say, I would prefer I had better take up design, limit, but limits do not exist picked on. But the truth is, they to do the shuffle in sneakers. because I wasn’t good enough with Madonna.” pick on everybody. They really “Well, I look at the old guard, If you want to drop it like it’s to be an illustrator. I went to — Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci, don’t discriminate.” because the old guard had a hot, it’s good to wear flats, Parsons, but I didn’t graduate. who designed the singer’s — Jennifer Lopez, Feb. 9 certain way of doing things, because then your booty gets Yo u know that? I had to go Super Bowl costumes, Feb. 7 like a [Yves] Saint Laurent or a really close to the floor, but to summer school, because I “I wear a lot of black. You bit of [Christian] Dior. The way then there are things you can failed draping. I showed them. “I’ve matured, and that know what, black’s easier. The they did the collections way do in heels that you can’t do in I failed typing in high school. has definitely affected my more color you have in your back was quite remarkable, so sneakers.” That’s why I’m not very good aesthetic. We always joke that wardrobe, the longer it takes I look at them as inspiration. — Madonna, April 16 on the computer.… everyone’s always like, ‘Oh, you to get dressed.” Or Giorgio Armani, or Ralph Anne [Klein] taught me the it’s downtown New York!’ and — Rooney Mara, Feb. 16 or Karl. As my hair gets whiter, “ Yo u know, as you get older, Experience. It counts. BUSINESS & FASHION TOGETHER IS NEVER TOO

Milberg Factors is proud to celebrate our 75th anniversary. Since opening our doors in 1937, we’ve remained independent, family-owned, and focused on meeting our MATCHY clients’ needs.

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Business and fashion come together in a unique way at LIM College. With hundreds of the industry’s top companies as partners, and with expert faculty, a rigorous curriculum, and our prime location Milberg Factors, Inc. in the world’s fashion capital, this is a hands-on, professional education — WHERE BUSINESS MEETS FASHION® — unlike A TRADITION OF ENTREPRENEURIAL FINANCE anywhere else.

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WWD.COM

the year in fashion talking points

you really want to go back to “She is like a kept woman. She apparently not.” so much white cotton shirting clothes. My head would be that idea of happy — happy, has a strong personality. She — Artist Christopher [buttoned] up to the neck? And too restricted if I only thought productive.” has lunch and dinner with me Makos, showing with the Andy why do I not see sex? And why about making clothes.” — Betsey Johnson, after her on the table, with her own food. Warhol retrospective, Sept. 11 do I not see fun in that world? — Rei Kawakubo, Nov. 19 company filed for bankruptcy She doesn’t touch my food. She And why do I not see movement protection, April 27 doesn’t want to eat on the floor. “Like all I want to do is create in that world? And why do I “I’ve always done a kind of She sleeps under a pillow, and things and wear funny clothes not see the female body in that skinny silhouette, because “I was 40 before I learned that she even knows how to use an and go to parties and smoke world? I think it’s interesting I am skinny; I don’t have to ‘No’ was a complete sentence.” iPad. She has two personal my rich friends’ weed. That’s to bring part [of minimalism] worry about covering up fat — Kathy Ireland, May 7 maids, for both night and day. really all I want to do. I want to into the world of Dior, but I also bits!” She is beyond spoiled.” change the lives of my fans and want to make it very sensual — Mick Jagger, about his “Fashion has a lot of Virgos…. — Karl Lagerfeld, about his the only way to do that is by and sexual and very free. tour costumes, Nov. 26 To really obsess about a cat, Choupette, June 6 being myself.” Liberated is probably the most millimeter on a shoe, it helps — Lady Gaga, Sept. 14 important message.” “America is not the America our to be a Virgo.” “It’s really stupid to be mad — Raf Simons, Oct. 1 parents fought for and promised — Tom Ford, May 10 at someone who died, but “Women have different us. The issue in front of us as somehow I have managed it.” plumbing.” “The most important thing is citizens, as businesses, as “I love Madonna. She is the — Meryl Streep, about Nora — Barbra Streisand, on to know what you’re good at. In leaders, is to understand we only woman I have asked to Ephron, July 10 research inequity for men’s vs. any creative field, if it already cannot embrace the status quo.” marry me. She refused, of women’s heart disease, exists, nobody needs it.” —Starbucks ceo Howard course.” “When you go in and you show Sept. 21 — Calvin Klein, Oct. 18 Schultz, Nov. 30 — Jean Paul Gaultier, May 31 your clothing, you think that they’re going to buy the whole “I’m here because I think we “I’m sitting in a car on the “When you are editor in chief “It’s always peculiar when I collection. And when they don’t, need to be more serene and Upper East Side, with my phone of an extremely successful speak of myself in the third you’re like, ‘What do you mean? less hysterical.” plugged into a cigarette lighter. magazine, you don’t need an person.” It all goes together….But I think — Prada’s Patrizio Bertelli, Meanwhile, I’m getting e-mails ambassadorship for four years. — Giorgio Armani, May 31 that’s kind of a life thing — calming analysts about the from Paris and Los Angeles, Ambassadors were great in the Fur_WWD_adv_v4_op.pdf 1 12年11月28日 下午5:19 ‘What, you don’t want all of me?’” state of the luxury market, where it’s business as usual.” 18th century. Today, it’s going “I’d like to dress the Queen. — Katie Holmes, on her fashion Sept. 25 — Julianne Moore, to the opening of a cafeteria.” She can handle anything. venture, Holmes & Yang, Sept. 6 interviewed in the wake of — Oscar de la Renta, on Maybe in black with a little “Why does it look so related Hurricane Sandy, Nov. 2 speculation that Anna Wintour leather, a little rock ’n’ roll.” “I always thought you had to to what it was in the Nineties? might be named a U.S. — Donatella Versace, June 1 be dead to show at the Met, but That’s my question. Why is it “My intention is not to make Ambassador, Dec. 5

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