The Best Parties

THE HOT PARTIES WWDSECTION II

BEAUTY HIGH POINTS 2012

THE THE TOP 10 STORIES RON JOHNSON: NEWSMAKER OF THE YEARYEAR MEMORABLE MOMENTSIN

FASHIONIN MEMORIAM 2 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

THE YEAR IN FASHION A TRANSFORMATION IN PROGRESS

tings for updated merchandise from Newsmaker Jonathan Adler and Michael Graves, 2012 among other labels more apt to be seen in SoHo rather than a Middle American department store. of Shops-in-shop for Martha Stewart, the Carter’s, Cosmopolitan intimate ap- Year parel and Giggle baby clothes and gifts will also start rolling out next year. Stewart is abandoning Macy’s to sell at Penney’s, which says it will sell Martha next year, though a court battle over who can sell the brand continues. Ron Johnson Johnson regards Martha Stewart and other incoming big brands as magnets The J.C. Penney chief is reinventing the company. for more labels and customers. “It’s the By David Moin collection of partners that will change people’s perception of jcp, just like the iPod changed the perception of Apple.” There could be additional announce- ments on brands, though Johnson wouldn’t cite any possibilities. “We

are open to everything. We want to be exciting. We don’t want to be limited. We look at ourselves as kind of like the next shopping mall, a land of specialty IT’S CHRISTMASTIME, sales are back image, forgoing suits in favor of will continue with the suggested price shops. Just like a mall, we want to bring down, analysts are second-guess- crewnecks even at heavy-duty investor format with its national brands going the best ideas to the customers.”

ing the strategy, and Ron Johnson, the presentations. Similarities between forward. When brands have sale events Next year will also see the appear- casually clad, visionary chairman and what Apple has and what Penney’s at other retailers, Penney’s will honor ance of The Street, a half-mile-long re- chief executive officer of J.C. Penney strives for — a clean, service-oriented those temporary reductions so it can created main aisle through the store Co. Inc., is keeping his cool. and nonpromotional retail environ- remain price competitive. where customers can relax, check “I don’t feel any pressure exter- ment — are apparent. Smelling blood, rival retailers have their e-mails, sip coffee or juice and The long lumbering Penney’s had been pounding away at Penney’s mar- order via mobile checkout. The Street nally or from any investors. I am really ·· focused on rebuilding J.C. Penney,” no other choice than to remake itself ket share by becoming more promo- will also have the “jcp bar” for returns, Johnson told WWD. “We are not feeling for a better future. The company was tional and as coupon-crazed as ever. cash checkouts and pickups from on- any pressure other than doing the right seeing a sales slowdown and decline in “We knew this year sales would go line orders. It becomes the “interface” thing for J.C. Penney.” product quality before Johnson joined backwards as we established, if you for customers to visit Penney’s new And more than most retailers, he’s in 2011, and this year has endured will, a high-integrity pricing model,” shops, Johnson said. looking forward to 2013 when “the fun further declines. In the third quarter Johnson said. “It’s been a little tougher Another Johnson creation geared begins,” as many more products, brands ended Oct. 27, there was a $123 million than anticipated, but now we are three for Penney’s stores to be opened in the and shops emerge on the selling floors. loss, compared with $143 million in the weeks to the finish,” of year one, in future is called The Square, which he’s “This has been a very hard year. As year-ago quarter, and sales dropped Penney’s four-year reinvention. described in the past as “a dynamic hard as this year was, next year will be 26.6 percent to $2.93 billion from $4 bil- At the end of the process, Johnson seasonal space with unique items, light exhilarating, as we return to growth,” lion last year. Even Internet sales were will either be the hero for boldly rein- food and beverage and engaging expe- Johnson said. “Clearly this year we down, declining 37.3 percent to $214 vigorating and rethinking the $15 bil- riences” including holiday trim-a-tree depromoted. We lowered our base. areas that for the January-February Now we see what the customer shop- period would switch to activewear, ping patterns are. We know how to juices and Pilates and yoga classes. compete off a new base line. We expect Every two months the focus in The a return to growth next year. We really haven’t begun to update the Square will change, Johnson said. “Levi’s is wonderful. Izod is won- In fall 2013, Penney’s will unveil derful. It’s pretty remarkable that in assortments. Next year will be real fun. a prototype 130,000-square-foot store a few short months, you can see such that will “feel like a shopping mall,” profound changes,” he said of the re- Next year is when you will really be Johnson said. While it seems most of tailer’s new shop-in-shops. “But we the focus has been on brick-and-mor- really haven’t begun to update the as- tar reinvention, with digital shopping, sortments. That’s what happens next seeing the transformation. “stay tuned,” Johnson said. “We have year. Next year will be real fun. Next rolled out the ability to check out via year is when you will really be seeing — RON JOHNSON mobile. All stores have iPads. That’s the transformation.” been very successful.” Effective Feb. As far as being named WWD 1, “every employee will have an iPad. Newsmaker of the Year, it hasn’t quite million. Penney’s stock has nose-dived lion Penney’s business, or the goat who There are unlimited ways it can be sunk in. “I’m not sure if that’s a good from a high of $43.18 in February to a brought it down. used,” though no capabilities have been thing or a bad thing,” Johnson said, re- low of $15.69 in November, and closed “The transformation is on track,” announced yet beyond the checkout. sponding to the news. at $18.16 on Friday. Johnson said, in providing a progress Also on the tech front, Penney’s is It’s a good thing. Johnson has es- There also have been a few setbacks report on the business. Johnson added rolling out an Oracle platform over the tablished himself as a retail icono- on the management and marketing that 10 percent of the square foot- next three years with 60 percent fewer clast, willing to rewrite the rules of the fronts, with the sudden departure of age has so far been reinvented with applications than the current one, a game in his high-stakes reinvention of Penney’s president Michael Francis, a new shops, including Levi’s, Izod, Liz new digital platform for the online the 110-year-old Penney’s. In terms of short-lived advertising campaign with Claiborne and the jcp and Arizona pri- store; for spring, Penney’s expects to speed and scope, he’s leading a retail Ellen Degeneres and a pricing plan vate brands, and that reinvented space be fully RFID, and the store will go pa- overhaul of unprecedented proportions that originally confused customers but is outperforming the old·· space. It’s like perless, except for signs. — resculpting Penney’s prosaic sell- has since been simplified, though some a tale of two stores, or as Johnson put In New York, Penney’s has moved ing floors into a “specialty department shoppers who loved their coupons de- it, like a restaurant under renovation. into space in SoHo, on Lafayette and store” with ultimately 100 individual fected to other stores. Johnson won’t Imagine Penney’s as a restaurant with Broome Streets, where it’s recruiting specialty shops within the box, add- restore coupons, but is open to staging 100 tables, he said, where 10 new tables talent, most likely on the creative and ing better brands to modernize the mix an occasional promotion as evidenced have been brought in, but there’s been design sides, though Johnson declined while tossing out the dogs, and devel- by Penney’s Black Friday sale, official- no change in the menu as of yet. “Next to specify. Penney’s has its headquar- oping a cleaner, easier-to-navigate lay- ly the store’s only sale of the year, and year we update the menu and get to 40 ters in Plano, Tex., as well as a sourc- out with coffee stops, gelato stands and holiday buttons that can be redeemed tables. We will have 40 percent [of the ing center in Hong Kong and financial high-tech advancements for service. for a chance to win gifts are being dis- store space reinvented] as we move operations in Salt Lake City. He’s also introduced a controversial tributed through Christmas Eve. through next year. That is a big differ- Such projects as launching Joe everyday low “fair and square” pricing Meanwhile, Penney’s is working ence,” Johnson said. Fresh chainwide in nearly 700 stores scheme that eliminated coupons and harder to communicate to consumers The most anticipated addition is Joe within a week or two seem herculean. the high-low price promoting Penney’s its fair-and-square pricing by making Fresh, which in March rolls out inside “It’s hard. Not herculean,” Johnson was addicted to, though clearances are it easier for them to do comparisons 683 Penney stores with shops-in-shop said. “Joe Fresh is the big first new still staged. when they shop. Penney’s estimates from 1,000 to 2,500 square feet each, partner. We can’t wait to launch that. Johnson was already in the spotlight that $500 million in sales was lost be- giving Joe Fresh a huge U.S. footprint We have built a great team and most of before joining Penney’s as the architect cause of not showcasing comparison practically overnight. the great people I have met love to take of Apple’s successful store rollout. He’s values. On certain brands, such as Izod, An even bigger change involves on the big tasks. I loved Apple during been taking lessons from the Apple Penney’s is showing suggested and renovating the home floor, which will the growth. When it becomes easy to do playbook in the Penney’s rebuild, and retail prices, which is the retailer’s be transformed at Penney’s larger lo- things, that’s when it’s time to do some- he maintains that Silicon Valley laid- fair-and-square model. The company cations, with 15,000-square-foot set- thing different.” ©D.YURMAN 2012 DAVIDYURMAN.COM 888-DYURMAN 4 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

THE YEAR IN FASHION NEWSMAKERS OF THE YEAR The People’s Choice 1 If the designation were “CEO of the Year,” Emanuel Chirico of PVH Inc. could well have garnered top honors for the big moves he orchestrated and the way the brands in his company’s portfolio have flourished. Chirico is the winner of the People’s Choice for Newsmaker of the Year, garnering the most votes from WWD.com readers among a list culled by WWD editors of 20 nominees. Here, the top 10 vote-getters as selected by visitors to the Web site.

EMANUEL CHIRICO, CHAIRMAN AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, PVH CORP. Hurricane Sandy had brought virtually all other activity in New York to a standstill, but it couldn’t stop Emanuel Chirico from closing his third megadeal as either chief financial officer or, since 2006, chief executive officer of PVH Corp. In a long anticipated transaction, the ceo reached an agreement to acquire Warnaco Group Inc. for $2.9 billion on Oct. 30. Having skillfully worked down debt and enhanced operating performance after the 2002 acquisition of Calvin Klein Inc. for $430 million and the 2010 purchase of Tommy Hilfiger for $3 billion, Chirico, this year’s People’s Choice winner as selected by visitors to WWD.com for Newsmaker of the Year, managed not only to bring Warnaco’s jeans and underwear businesses under direct PVH control, but pick up the rights to Speedo and expand corporate assets in underpenetrated markets such as Asia and Latin America, as well. Originally considered a “numbers guy,” he’s proven to also be a savvy marketer who’s bringing the company’s heritage brands — including Izod, Van Heusen and Arrow — back to profitability with fresh merchandise and attention-getting advertising and promotion. Set to cross the $8 billion mark with the integration of Warnaco, few question the seriousness of Chirico’s intention to overtake the nearly $11 billion VF Corp.

JEFF BEZOS, CHAIRMAN AND RICHARD PERRY, NICOLAS GHESQUIERE CEO, AMAZON.COM INC. CHAIRMAN, BARNEYS Trying to figure out Nicolas 2 Amazon is on the cusp of 3 NEW YORK 4 Ghesquière’s next step has expanding its fashion reach in a Richard Perry, the hedge-fund become the party game of the major way, which means the e-tail superstar, art collector and one of season, after the acclaimed giant Jeff Bezos founded in 1994 ’s wealthiest men, French designer parted ways might soon exceed the 37 percent put Barneys New York on better with Balenciaga following a of domestic mobile commerce it footing after his Perry Capital fund creatively charged 15-year tenure. already commands. took a majority stake in the luxury Whether he decides to launch In October, Amazon said it chain. The deal wiped out virtually a signature brand or takes the leased a 40,000-square-foot space all of Barneys’ debt, in exchange helm of another fashion house, in Brooklyn’s Williamsburg section, serving as a photography for equity. Perry, who happens to be a Barneys shopper, Ghesquière remains one of a handful of designers capable studio for Amazon Fashion, which also owns Shopbop and took a seat on the board, wants Barneys to be more of producing both high-brow conceptual clothes and MyHabit, and opening next spring. The Web site, currently profitable and busier, and more of a social hub, beyond the spawning a thousand high-street imitations. the leader for market share and innovation among its peers, always-crowded Fred’s restaurant inside the store. His spring 2013 collection, which proved to be his contends that fashion is its most rapidly growing business. So far, he’s kept a low profile and the Barneys team front swan song, was widely praised by retailers and editors for In the third quarter ended Sept. 30, Amazon posted and center, but he’s said to be backing renovations and its fresh and youthful tailoring, modern frills and square- a net loss of $274 million versus a year-ago profit of $63 new merchandising and marketing concepts, and closely heeled shoes. million, as the company continued to invest heavily in examining retail locations, some of which have long been infrastructure like warehouses. Net sales for the quarter slow. Barneys in NorthPark Center in Dallas, a big beautiful totaled $13.81 billion versus $10.88 billion a year ago. store with a limited clientele, is set to close next April. GIANNONI GIOVANNI

RAF SIMONS, TORY BURCH KARL LAGERFELD ARTISTIC DIRECTOR, With 82 stores worldwide, 35 Though his design duties at 5 6 more in the pipeline for 2013, a 7 and Fendi kept him plenty It’s been a roller-coaster year for solid wholesale business and two busy, Karl Lagerfeld also found , who went from a consecutive runway hits under her time to relaunch his signature tearful farewell after seven years belt, Tory Burch has become one brand, owned by London-based JOHN AQUINO; GHESQUIERE BY as creative director at Jil Sander of the most-talked about American Apax Partners. Besides a masstige to being crowned Dior’s sixth designers. Her Reva ballet flats line, the Karl collection, and couturier. The Belgian designer and handbags continue to lure fans premium Karl Lagerfeld Paris has come a long way since to her stores, and the business ranges under license with ’s bursting onto the scene as a community likes to speculate about Ittierre SpA, he is also overseeing maker of edgy men’s wear infused with youthful angst. an IPO, though the designer has denied this. licenses for watches and perfume, with plans for a Though his debut at Dior during the July couture did Burch is also embroiled in a nasty legal battle with ex- concept store in Paris set to open in 2013. BY STEVE EICHNER; KORS not skimp on spectacle, with decor featuring a million husband Christopher Burch, who cofounded the company All that on top of touring the world to promote Chanel’s fresh flowers and a star-studded front row, Simons with her. He sued her in October, claiming she blocked “The Little Black Jacket” photo book and exhibition, and proved his minimal aesthetic was intact, showing sleek him from selling his stake in the firm. She countered with side projects as varied as designing VIP helicopters to a clothes that promise to steer the august house in a a suit alleging he used his role at the company to source collection of color cosmetics for Shu Uemura. more modernist direction. And his spring rtw show was and develop “copycat” products and store furnishings for critically acclaimed for its futuristic takes on Dior’s his C. Wonder retail brand. Most recently, she accused him iconic “bar” jacket and flower shapes. of withholding documents pertinent to the case.

MICHAEL KORS , RON JOHNSON, CEO, As the song goes, “It was a very CREATIVE DIRECTOR, J.C. PENNEY CO. INC. 8 good year” for Michael Kors. 9 YVES SAINT LAURENT 10 The choice of WWD’s editors

After 30 years of designing and Fashion industry fascination as Newsmaker of the Year, Ron LAGERFELD BY VICTORIA BONN-MEUSER/DPA/CORBIS; a high-profile gig as a judge on went into overdrive when Hedi Johnson was a natural nominee, “Project Runway,” Kors’ $1.7 Slimane was named creative given the focus on his plans for billion company went public last director of Yves Saint Laurent, transforming J.C. Penney Co. December in one of the largest after focusing on photography Inc. and its future positioning IPOs for a U.S. fashion firm. for seven years. on the retail map. He brought The stock, which began trading Known for his precise, out a slew of retail catch phrases at $20 a share, closed Friday at almost-obsessive attention to toward achieving his goal: genius $51.60. Kors’ total proceeds from the IPO and follow-up detail, Slimane raised media hackles with a restrictive bar, shops-in-shop, a store viewed as a house and aisles

offerings was over $467 million. invitation policy that excluded some editors or relegated thought of as streets. THOMAS IANNACCONE; BEZOS BY As of September, Kors held 8,356,016 shares of them to standing in what was regarded as one of the The very idea of turning the department store stock, which would value his investment at $421 million hottest tickets of the season. The collection included model upside down is revolutionary, evolutionary and and put him on the path to becoming a billionaire. Total reverential smokings, wide-brimmed hats and bohemian controversial, and the whole market is watching. Forty revenue growth for the second quarter was attributed dresses. It was widely praised by retailers, with mixed new shops in March are on the way, and there’s likely to a mix of accessories, footwear, watches, jewelry and reviews from critics. more growing pains ahead that will keep Johnson and eyewear, which combined for 79 percent of the firm’s Penney’s in the news for some time. product assortment. PHOTOS BY CHIRICO AND BURCH 2 “summer” London vacations 3 evil school buses 3,542 cats and dogs 2 lucky pigeon encounters 6,000 gallons of rainwater 100 mph winds 6 times left on the subway 1 million hailstones 3 times singing in the rain 1 sheltered stranger 204 dirty puddle splashes

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© 2012 DuPont. The DuPont Oval Logo, DuPont™, the miracles of science™ and TeÛon® are trademarks or registered trademarks of E.I. du Pont de Nemours and Company or its affiliates. All rights reserved. 6 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012

SECTION II MoralTHE YEAR IN FASHION TOP 10 STORIES Hazard

Controversy erupted over tragedy and substandard working conditions, as labor once again became a major focus. By Arthur Friedman

THE MOST BASIC element of the fashion and that workers in key producing coun- not take effect until a certain number of industry — where clothes are made — be- The fire in Bangladesh tries risk their lives on a daily basis pro- companies have signed it. came one of the year’s most controversial highlighted problems ducing clothes for Europe and the USA.” Kevin Burke, chief executive officer issues, giving urgency to a moral question: in workplace safety. CCC said what’s most important is that of the American Apparel & Footwear What is a low price really worth if the hid- governments and companies ensure that Association, said the AAFA had a den cost is in dangerous, often abusive workers can freely organize and speak seminar on workplace safety last week and sometimes fatal labor conditions? out when safety regulations are ignored. in Dhaka that was attended by more The industry’s century-old stigma of Then came the news in neighboring than 400 people from the Bangladesh unsafe factory conditions reemerged as Bangladesh last month that 111 work- industry. Burke said the operators in tragic fires struck several Asian plants, ers died in a fire at a garment factory Bangladesh were accepting responsi- killing hundreds of workers. in Dhaka. Three officials from Tazreen bility for the tragedy and were commit- Factory conditions were thought to Fashions Ltd. were arrested after an ted to improving conditions to ensure have been on a steady rate of improve- investigation found they had padlocked nothing similar happens again. ment with the advent of corporate so- all the collapsible gates and provided “There is no excuse for such a trag- cial responsibility and monitoring pro- wrong information to the workers when edy to occur,” he said. “Worker safety is a grams throughout the industry. But in the fire broke out. priority of the AAFA and we feel workers September, 101-year-old ghosts of New Again, there was an outcry from inter- should be treated with respect. If this isn’t York’s Triangle Shirtwaist Fire emerged in national watchdog groups and protests a wake-up call for the industry, I don’t Pakistan when 264 workers perished in an in the streets to improve factory condi- know what is. There are a lot of great inferno at Ali Enterprises, a garment manu- tions. Wal-Mart Stores Inc. immediately places and factories in the world to make facturer in Karachi. The owners of the fac- terminated the relationship with a sup- goods, and if the owners in Bangladesh tory were charged with murder, attempted plier that subcontracted work to Tazreen or Pakistan or elsewhere want to be play- murder and criminal negligence for using because it was a direct violation of the ers, they have to make sure they run safe illegal electrical connections. While the retailer’s policies. The retail giant also facilities. There is just no room for inci-

factory was burning in Karachi, 25 people STRINGER/AFP/GETTY IMAGES pledged to help improve fire safety edu- dents like this in our industry.” died in Lahore in a blaze at a shoe factory. cation and training in Bangladesh. Li In recent years, Chinese officials The tragedies brought to the forefront & Fung Ltd. and German mass retailer said the country’s workplace fatalities the poor working conditions that prevail PHOTO BY C&A acknowledged having orders with have declined. But only last week, a in many apparel factories throughout that raged for 15 hours, workers threw the factory when the fire occurred. Li Chinese man set fire to the Shantou gar- the developing world, from Pakistan sewing machines at the windows, tried & Fung said it will compensate victims’ ment factory in Guangdong where he and Bangladesh to China and Cambodia, to squeeze between the bars and leapt families and set up an education fund once worked, killing 14. Liu Shuangyun despite concerted efforts by apparel from second and third floors, causing for their children. apparently was angry he hadn’t been brands and organizations to improve broken bones and other injuries. U.S. and international labor and paid $500 in wages from over a year ago. conditions. They also fanned public The International Labor Organization1 human rights groups sent a letter to Workplace fatalities in China remain outrage at the callousness of the factory called for Pakistan to take concrete U.S. Labor Secretary Hilda Solis and higher than anywhere else, with nearly owners and lax enforcement of safety steps to improve safety standards in the European government labor officials 90,000 people killed on the job, across standards by the Pakistani government. country. Seiji Machida, head of ILO’s calling on them to press companies to various industries, and almost 400,000 Officials blamed the large number SafeWork Program, said, “Protection of sign onto a “memorandum of under- injured at work in 2010. Figures have of casualties on the factory having no workers’ safety and health is a funda- standing” with a group of nongovern- not been published for 2011, but there emergency doors or stairways, with most mental human right. We need to reinforce mental organizations and trade unions, have been no significant reforms or ad- of the people suffocating in a locked, measures to protect workers’ lives from known as the “Bangladesh Fire and vances in workplace safety. smoke-filled basement. Fire trucks and hazards in the workplace.” Building Safety Agreement.” The pact is “There are not enough personnel or cranes could not easily gain access to Clean Clothes Campaign internation- focused on bringing together the govern- resources for local government to make the building. Because of thefts, the own- al coordinator Ineke Zeldenrust said ment and brand owners to create a safe sure all the factories are up to code,” said ers had all exits locked and there were at the time, “These deaths could and and sustainable work environment. PVH Geoffrey Crothall, communications di- bars on the windows, trapping 600 men should have been avoided....It is well Corp. and German retailer Tchibo have rector for China Labor Bulletin, a Hong and women inside. To escape the fire known that many workplaces are unsafe, signed onto the agreement, but it will Kong-based labor rights organization. Fashion Moments of 2012

Jan. 10: No good deed goes unpunished. can expand to a city near you. Straight Jan. 27: At a Paris dinner to launch his Diego Della Valle’s plan to donate 25 hair for everyone. Masstige line, Karl Lagerfeld serves up million to the restoration of the iPads — on silver platters — for each Colosseum hits a wall when Codacons, Jan. 24: Phoebe Philo, expecting her guest as the fifth course of the dinner. Italy’s antitrust authority, finds “a series third child at the time, cancels her fall of distortions” in Tod’s bid. runway show for Celine in favor of a very Jan. 31: The White House is forced small, very select presentation. to deny reports in several British Jan. 13: Hasbro pairs with Junk Food newspapers, including the Telegraph, Clothing to launch a fashion line of Jan. 24: A day before its flight-themed that Michelle Obama had spent T-shirts based on its classic board game YOUSSEF NABIL couture show in Paris, Chanel charters $50,000 on lingerie at Agent Monopoly to retail at Kitson in L.A. fleets of private planes to fly its top Provocateur on Madison Avenue.

PHOTO BY customers, press and friends to Las Vegas Jan. 17: Miuccia Prada complains about for its lucky number-themed event and Feb. 1: is ranked in the the forthcoming Met Museum Costume ▲ Jan. 18: Christian Louboutin unveils exhibition “Numéros Privés” at the Wynn. top tier of fund-raising bundlers for Institute exhibition “Schiaparelli and Prada: his collaboration with famous Paris nude President Obama, raising more than

Impossible Conversations,” saying, “It’s too cabaret Crazy Horse to run from March 5 ▼ Jan. 25: For its couture show, $500,000 for his reelection campaign. formal; they are focused on similarities, but to May 31. Chanel commissions a plane, or at they are not taking into consideration that least its interior, to be installed in the we are talking about two different eras, and Jan. 19: Emanuel Ungaro says it will Grand Palais, complete with seating for that [Schiaparelli and I] are total opposites. not deliver its spring 2012 collection 250, double-C monogrammed carpet I told them but they don’t care.” to retailers because of an internal and a 164-foot aisle. reorganization. It also cancels its fall Jan. 18: For the first time, H&M takes collection and all pre-fall appointments. Jan. 26: ’s couture

out a 30-second spot during the Super collection, an ode to the style of recently STEPHANE FEUGERE Bowl for its David Beckham Bodywear Jan. 20: Blowout factory Drybar inks a deceased Amy Winehouse, proves too collection. NBC is reportedly charging $16 million deal with Castanea Partners, soon, invoking the ire of her fans, her

$3.5 million per 30-second spot. through which the hair-drying sensation family and many fashion people. PHOTO BY WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012 7

WWD.COM

THE YEAR IN FASHION TOP 10 STORIES It’s the Economy, Still To p 10 Bankruptcies IF SURVIVAL OF THE FITTEST is the name of the game, the following firms probably should have spent more time at the gym. Impacted mostly by severe debt and an While there are a few bright spots, there’s still a long inability to find a way out, they filed for bankruptcy protection, and some liquidated. road ahead for the global economy. By Evan Clark A few brands were fortunate and found new owners, but at least three retailers — Bakers, Daffy’s and Mark Shale — closed up shop. FASHION IS STILL looking for a port should support weaker neighbors such Following are the 10 biggest bankruptcies of the year, ranked by actual or in the storm. as Greece and has threatened to break estimated liabilities. — VICKI M. YOUNG It’s been nearly five years since the apart the currency bloc. last U.S. recession began, but boom The problems aren’t likely to be fixed ARCAPITA BANK BSC: Founded in THE CONNAUGHT GROUP: Founded never followed bust as the financial cri- soon. German Chancellor Angela Merkel 1996 as First Islamic Investment Bank, in 1982 by William Rondina, the direct sis, a debt hangover and a housing glut recently said the region’s sovereign debt the Bahrain-based firm listed liabilities of seller of high-end apparel filed in interrupted the typical cycle and threw crisis would last “at least” five more years. $2.55 billion when it filed in March. Apparel February, listing liabilities between $50 the global economy off kilter. According to Eurostat, the euro zone has retailer J. Jill and accessories retailer Bijoux million and $100 million. It was sold That’s left the industry with hopes slipped into its second recession since the Terner are investments under the Arcapita for $22 million to a joint venture called for the future, but nowhere to turn for global financial crisis began. Economic umbrella, although neither operating Forty-Three Eighty Co., comprising men’s subsidiary was parties to the filing. Arcapita, wear custom suit manufacturer Tom stability as the U.S. recovery limps output in the 17-country currency bloc fell still in bankruptcy, last month secured a James Co. and Hong Kong-based Royal along, Europe remains tangled in a 0.1 percent in the third quarter, following $125 million loan from Fortress Investment Spirit Group, Connaught’s largest vendor. debt crisis and the economic engine of a 0.2 percent drop in the second quarter. Group, which buys it time to restructure China is shifting into a lower gear. Italy and have been contracting without having to sell off investments. DAFFY’S INC.: The 51-year-old off- The U.S. recovery is still weak and, for a year, and Greece is mired in depres- pricer founded by Irving J. Shulman in while consumer confidence is up and sion. and , the zone’s big- THE PEACOCK GROUP: The British 1961 as Daffy Dan’s Bargaintown in company profits are topping last year, gest economies, grew 0.2 percent in the fashion retailer entered administration in July decided to shutter its stores, but unemployment is still high at 7.7 percent most recent quarter. January, the U.K. equivalent of Chapter first made a quick stop in bankruptcy and a serious slowdown is projected for The French economy is growing — al- 11 in the U.S. It is considered the biggest court in August to avoid being forced holiday sales growth. beit at a snail’s pace — and Moody’s British retail collapse since Woolworths in into insolvency by its factors trying As a barometer for the econ- Investors Service last month 2008. The company, which had $295.6 to protect $37 million in unsecured omy, look at Ben S. Bernanke, downgraded the country’s cred- million in debt, sold off its assets. Sun creditor claims. The chain could not chairman of the Federal it rating to “Aa1” from “Aaa,” European Partners, the European advisor compete with other off-price chains that Reserve. The leader of the and retained its negative to Boca Raton, Fla.-based Sun Capital provided consumers with better deals on Fed has famously been de- outlook due to rising unem- Partners, acquired the Bonmarché apparel in-season merchandise. scribed as the person who ployment, tax hikes and grim chain, while Edinburgh Woollen Mill takes away the punch just as growth prospects. acquired the Peacocks chain. BETSEY JOHNSON LLC: The the party gets started — rais- Weakness in the massive licensee, which operates the designer’s ing interest rates to restrain consumer economies of the UNITED RETAIL GROUP: The company freestanding stores and e-commerce growth and keeping the econ- U.S. and Europe has been a operated Avenue, the plus-sized women’s site, listed liabilities of $15.4 million in apparel chain, and was under the umbrella its April filing. It was run by Castanea omy from overheating. Instead, blow to China, which has seen its of the PPR-owned Redcats USA division, Partners, the Boston-based private equity the economy has been so weak manufacturing-based growth slow. which was not part of the filing. Listing firm which held a controlling stake since that Bernanke, a scholar of the Great Gone are the double-digit spikes of liabilities of $67.3 million when it filed in 2007. The Betsey Johnson brand, which Depression, has the Fed pouring the years past. China’s economy expanded February, Avenue was acquired by Versa is owned by Steve Madden, was not drinks fast and furious, pledging to keep by roughly 7.5 percent for the first three Capital, which also owns Bob’s Stores. involved in the filing. interest rates low and turning to bond quarters of the year. purchases to keep mortgages relatively But even that growth — and the vi- HMX GROUP: The men’s apparel firm MS MARK SHALE LLC: After 83 years cheap and support the housing market. brant Chinese luxury consumer — was formerly known as Hartmarx Corp. is in business, distressed men’s specialty Now, all eyes are on Washington, unable to mask the production slow- in the process of completing its second retailer Mark Shale shuttered its three where President Obama is wrestling with down. Investors worried over a lack tour of bankruptcy in four years. Listing remaining Chicago stores. The high-end Congress to try to steer away from the of capital for private firms as well as a liabilities of between $50 million and retailer, which had liabilities of $5.6 fiscal cliff — an automatic slate of tax in- potentially growing reliance on larger $100 million when it filed in October, million, filed in August after being unable creases and spending cuts that kicks in at state-owned enterprises. the owners of suit brands Hart Schaffner to find a strategic partner. It was the yearend. Skeptics remain, well, skeptical Japan has been little comfort. It start- Marx and Hickey Freeman are in the third tour of bankruptcy proceedings for since the fiscal cliff was a way for lawmak- ed strong this year as the government process of selling the company through a the chain over a 17-year period. It was ers to postpone action when the debt ceil- funded recovery efforts from last year’s bankruptcy court-sponsored auction. founded by Shale Baskin in 1929 and ing needed to be2 raised last year. earthquake and tsunami, but the econo- was formerly known as Al Baskin. If there’s no solution, economists ex- my lost steam as the year progressed, ten- BAKERS FOOTWEAR GROUP: The pect America to sink back into recession. sions with China flared and consumers footwear and accessories chain in October AQUASCUTUM: The 161-year old The fiscal cliff is just the U.S. ver- cut back on their shopping. In the third defaulted on a $30 million secured credit British brand entered administration facility. Listing $59.5 million in liabilities, in April and was acquired in May by sion of the ills vexing Europe, where quarter, gross domestic product slumped the chain is now liquidating. Based in St. YGM Trading, owner of Guy Laroche. It governments are trying to find the 3.5 percent on an annualized basis. Louis, Bakers went public in 2004 and purchased for $18.5 million the assets — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS right balance of taxes coming in and counts as investors Steve Madden Ltd. of Aquascutum that it didn’t already social spending going out. This awk- FROM KATHLEEN E. MCLAUGHLIN, and Peter Edison, Bakers’ chief executive own. YGM, a Chinese firm, represents the ward dance has stronger players like AMANDA KAISER, SAMANTHA CONTI officer, who once held various positions at burgeoning trend of licensees acquiring Germany wondering how much they AND ALEX WYNNE Edison Brothers Stores. the brands they license.

Feb. 7: Halston gears up for a relaunch richest man Amancio Ortega, reveals plans Klein show, their ranks diminished by — again. This time, it’s in the hands of to marry Sergio Alvarez in a dress made by inclement weather. They chose the Klein Ben Malka, private chairman and ceo. Zara, one of Inditex’s top brands. show “because of the symbolic nature of it and it’s the last day of fashion week,” Feb. 10: Miguel Adrover returns to the says Justin Stone-Diaz, an information New York schedule after shuttering his coordinator for the movement. company in 2004. He serves up a strong, irreverent show. Feb. 24: Girls start lining up at 8 a.m. for Katy Perry’s public appearance to Feb. 13: Alexander Wang shows he’s part introduce her line of fake eyelashes for of the big leagues, booking top Eylure at an Ulta pop-up shop at The KEVIN MAZUR/WIREIMAGE Gisele Bündchen, Shalom Harlow and Americana at Brand in Glendale, Calif. Karolina Kurkova to close his fall show. ▼

PHOTO BY March 1: Alber Elbaz marks a Feb. 15: Following Whitney Houston’s decade at . death, the E network pulls the

rebroadcast of the “Fashion Police” March 5: Rei Kawakubo shows a ▼ Feb. 7: Madonna performs at the Super episode during which Joan Rivers Comme des Garçons collection for the Bowl halftime show in Givenchy couture. lambasted Houston. (The original show ages, based on two-dimensional, outsize aired the day before Houston died.) Asked outfits in bright colors and prints. Her Feb 9: Pamela Skaist-Levy and Gela for comment at the Badgley Mischka standard cryptic sound bite postshow: Nash-Taylor, the original Juicy Couture show, Rivers says she has no regrets: “The future is two dimensions.” ladies, are back with a new contemporary “When she’s alive, she’s fair game. It’s line they launch at New York Fashion Week. part of being a celebrity.” March 8: commissions a STEPHANE FEUGERE full-scale steam locomotive to roll into Feb. 10: Marta Ortega, the 28-year-old Feb. 17: Members of the Occupy Wall the Cour Carrée du Louvre for the fall

daughter of Inditex founder and Spain’s Street movement showed up at the Calvin PHOTO BY show. 8 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012

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the year in fashion toP 10 stories A ry/AF p / g etty i m A ges; y t imothy A. Cl B g etty i m A ges y Andrew /

Transportation centers were severely damaged and flooding paralyzed parts of New York. Bowling green photo C A rey t unnel B

possible, but consumers, many of whom were dealing the Internet,” because people did not have electricity. with Sandy’s aftermath, kept their dollars for home re- Analysts weren’t completely convinced that the re- pairs and necessary supplies. sults could be squarely blamed on Sandy, as many of the Sandy Strikes What resulted was an inventory build-up and price companies blaming the storm didn’t even have a broad markdowns, as stores worked to clear the shelves for store base in the hardest-hit regions. For example, The devastating megastorm that hit the new deliveries. Dismal November comparable-store only about 7 percent of Nordstrom’s 238-store fleet was Northeast destroyed property, left millions sales, which encompassed the start of Sandy’s wrath based in the Tristate area, experts noted. without power for an extended time and on Oct. 28, reflected the spending clawback, as monthly “A lot of people are blaming Sandy, but natural or caused angst among retailers and suppliers sales rose 1.7 percent, much less than the 4.5 percent to unnatural events don’t destroy demand. It displaces 5.5 percent expected by experts. it,” Craig Johnson, president of Customer Growth heading into the crucial holiday selling Retailers reporting comps on Nov. 29 cited Sandy for Partners, said. season. By Alexandra Steigrad the soft sales, including Macy’s Inc., Nordstrom Inc. and He added Sandy was merely a blip, and that it wouldn’t Kohl’s Corp. materially impact retailers. November was part of a larger FOR MANY residents of New York, New Jersey and “Despite the largest-volume Thanksgiving weekend trend that indicates a deceleration in spending. the surrounding areas, there was life before Hurricane in our company’s history, we were not able to overcome “We’re in for a lackluster Christmas,” Johnson Sandy, and then, there’s life after. Dubbed the “super- the weak start to the month, which included the dis- said, adding that holiday will likely be up 2.8 per- storm,” Sandy blew through the Northeast at the end ruption of Hurricane Sandy,” said Terry J. Lundgren, cent over last year, which is in line with 2007 levels of October, leaving massive flooding on the coastline, Macy’s chairman, president and chief executive officer. of 2.5 percent growth. power outages that lasted for days — in some cases “ Ye t we remain on track to deliver a very strong sales Whether consumer spending is slowing naturally, or weeks — and damage so severe that freestanding hous- performance in the fourth quarter.” if Sandy’s damage is a catalyst for the pullback, analysts es and businesses were reduced to rubble. Macy’s finished November with a 0.7 percent de- did acknowledge the storm’s effect on retail. No one predicted the gravity of the storm or how it cline in comparable-store sales, below the 1.5 percent “I don’t think the impact of Sandy can be ignored,” would impact the region. New York Gov. Andrew Cuomo, advance estimated by analysts. said Matthew Rahn, a principal at A .T. Kearney’s re- estimating damage at more than $40 billion, asked Nordstrom also recorded a rare decline as comps tail practice. “The question is, did that impact holiday Congress for billions in aid. With a toehold in New York fell 1.1 percent, while Kohl’s registered a 5.6 percent spending or did that delay it?” City, the fashion industry felt the impact in ways that dip in monthly sales. That’s still an open question, and one that will un- extended beyond simple store closures. Orders were Saks Inc. lowered its sales forecast for the fourth fold in the coming weeks. More long-term is whether delayed, showroom appointments canceled and offic- quarter, citing Sandy’s impact. Noting that many stores there will be a spending boost from rebuilding efforts. es were closed, sometimes for days, as industry hands were in the path of the storm’s epicenter, Stephen I. One thing is for certain: retailers will have to work worked to cobble their way back to normalcy. Sadove, chairman and ceo, said, “As much as 55 per- their magic not only to clear out any excess inventory in With the all-important holiday season and Black cent of our business was affected. New York alone is 20 advance of Christmas, but also to continue to keep the Friday looming, many retailers reopened as soon as percent. In the Northeast, we saw a substantial drop on cash-strapped consumer coming back for more. Fashion Moments of 2012

March 13: Derek Lam and Tod’s part ways April 16: New York’s Meatpacking its skin care, cosmetics and personal care after six years. District is drawing merchants with more headquarters from Cincinnati to Singapore. mass appeal and tourists, while losing March 14: It’s a fashion face-off of high-fashion tenants such as Stella May 14: Ray-Ban celebrates its 75th First Ladies — Michelle Obama and 3McCartney and Alexander McQueen. anniversary with a new collection and Samantha Cameron, wife of U.K. Prime advertising campaign. Minister David Cameron — during the April 18: The U.S. International Trade Brits’ state visit to the U.S. Commission rules in favor of Louis Vuitton in May 17: Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy a widespread counterfeiting case. follow up their “Black Swan” costume work March 16: Donald Trump releases his with designs for the L.A. Philharmonic’s second fragrance, Success by Trump, April 23: Uptown, the new downtown? An production of “Don Giovanni.” under The Five Star Fragrance Co. influx of younger labels, such as Rag & Bone, Proenza Schouler, Maje and Sandro, give May 22: Failing to get the giant payout, March 20: For her first public speech Madison Avenue a cooler, edgier vibe. is awarded $4.7 million in its

of her royal career, the Duchess of Cambridge A en three-year legal battle with Guess over its wears a bright blue double-breasted coat by April 2: Betsey Johnson LLC files Chapter similar interlocking “G” logos. Reiss, cinched with a black belt. 11; as a result, the bulk of the designer’s boutiques will close and about 350 staffers May 25: Michael Kors doubles space on March 30: Devout yogi Russell Simmons y s e BA sti A n F are expected to lose their jobs. Madison Avenue with its largest store in introduces Tantris, a new Zen lifestyle brand. the world, which will occupy two floors and

photo B May 8: Dressed to impress, guests measure 6,655 square feet. March 30: Dolce & Gabbana slaps a celebrate the “Schiaparelli and Prada: Cape Town costume jewelry store with a Impossible Conversations” exhibition May 29: Guess marks its 30th anniversary.

lawsuit over its name: Dolce & Banana. ▼ April 9: More than a year after her at The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s exit from French Vogue, Carine Roitfeld annual gala. June 5: The Row, Billy Reid and Reed April 6: Marc Jacobs adds a new says she will launch her own CR Fashion Krakoff take home the night’s top honors fragrance, Dot, to his repertoire. Book magazine. May 11: Procter & Gamble Co. moves at the annual CFDA Awards.

w10b008a;17.indd 1 12/7/12 8:59 PM 12072012210018 WWD MONDAY, DECEMER 10, 2012 9

WWD.COM

THE YEAR IN FASHION TOP 10 STORIES

Deal of the Day nearly a year of talks. This year saw a rush of merg- NO CROCODILE TEARS: Lacoste I’ll Have a Kors ers and acquisitions and with family shareholders last month two weeks left, it’s likely that agreed to sell their shares to Swiss The hottest fashion IPO in recent years has set the bar sky-high. By Evan Clark we’re not finished yet. Many retail group Maus Frères SA in a deal were smaller deals — less valued at $1.3 billion. Maus already “BE LIKE MIKE” used to be a pitch for Pianoforte Holding and Stefano Ricci. than $100 million — while oth- owned 35 percent of the capital Gatorade with Michael Jordan. Brunello Cucinelli romanced investors over ers were significant for the of Lacoste through its subsidiary Devanlay. Now it’s a mantra in fashion, where anyone the course of a year, selling them on his sense of brand or its market position, with a brand has had their sense of self worth luxury and prospects for his brand. The effort such as Lion Capital’s major- CHARMING, INDEED: Ascena reframed by Michael Kors’ public offering. helped the firm overcome European economic ity stake in John Varvatos or Retail Group, formerly The Dress With an accessories-heavy business model concerns and led to a successful IPO in April on TSG Consumer Partners’ sepa- Barn Inc., acquired Charming ripe for retail expansion, designer credibil- the Milan Bourse, with shares up more than 35 rate investments in Rebecca Shoppes Inc. for $890 million. ity and some big-time name rec- percent since the offering. Minkoff and Alexis Bittar. The Charming’s nameplates include Lane ognition from “Project Runway,” Tumi Holdings Inc. caught the following are the top 10 deals Bryant, Cacique, Fashion Bug and shares of Michael Kors Holdings Kors wave and went public in April, where transaction values were Catherines Plus Sizes, although the Ltd. caught fire when they made raising $338 million and valuing the disclosed. —VICKI M. YOUNG Fashion Bug chain has since been their Wall Street debut a year ago. firm at $1.79 billion. But that valua- shuttered. The stock has more than doubled tion has since fallen to $1.48 billion. A NEW ALLIANCE: In June, to $51.60, placing the value of the The Tumi retreat proves — as if Walgreen Co. said it would acquire a VALENTINO’S DAY: Mayhoola company north of $10 billion. proof were needed — that all IPOs 45 percent equity stake in Alliance for Investments, an investment JOHN AQUINO Kors has a price-to-earnings are not equal and many factors de- Boots GmbH in a cash-and-stock vehicle backed by a private investor ratio of 41, pricing the company Michael Kors termine how a stock performs once a deal valued at $6.7 billion. The group from Qatar, agreed to pay much closer to Prada (with a price- PHOTO BY company takes the public plunge. resulting entity has more than $110 $858 million to acquire Valentino to-earnings ratio of 37.8) than, say, Ralph Some don’t get past the starting line. billion in combined revenue and Fashion Group. The deal, between Lauren Corp. (21.9) or Coach Inc. (16.1). High-end jeweler Graff Diamonds pulled more than 11,000 stores in 12 Mayhoola and Red & Black Lux Sarl, The key to Kors’ valuations is its healthy its Hong Kong IPO in May, citing “adverse mar- countries. After setting up the first a company indirectly controlled by global pharmacy-led health and margins and its rapid growth rate. ket conditions,” although analysts also said the the Permira Funds in partnership beauty group, Walgreens has the with the Marzotto family, gave Thing is, luxe or near-luxe brands tend to stock was overpriced. The brand’s ultraluxe ap- option of acquiring the remaining 55 Mayhoola Valentino SpA as well as have good margins and most have relative- peal ran into a slowdown in China’s economy. percent of Alliance in three years. the M Missoni licensed business. ly small businesses and, therefore, room to The much-anticipated IPO of Facebook Inc. VFG’s Hugo Boss and MCS Marlboro grow. This has other brands expecting higher had an epic flop in New York that same month. WARNACO’S NEXT CHAPTER: Classics units remain owned by Red valuations as they sit at the bargaining table The social network came out of the gate at PVH Corp. in October signed a $2.9 & Black. or contemplate an initial public offering. $42.05 and then plummeted almost immedi- billion deal to acquire Warnaco, Investor John Howard, chief executive ately, cooling the market for new offerings reuniting PVH’s Calvin Klein with the ROBOTIC MOVES: Kiva, a officer of Irving Place Capital, called it the headed into summer. Shares are still trading brand’s two largest apparel categories: technology firm that combines “Michael Kors effect.” below $30, although they’ve been gaining as underwear, which Warnaco owned, material -handling with control “Everybody just shakes their head at Kors Facebook’s mobile strategies are inspiring a and jeanswear, for which it held the software to automate services at and says, ‘If Michael Kors is worth that, I’m second look from Wall Street naysayers. license. The acquisition included fulfillment centers that process worth this,’” Howard said. “It’s like every- The IPO market has warmed back up some Speedo, Warner’s and Olga and e-commerce orders, was acquired in body’s a little crazy. Everybody sees what’s and brands with a growth track are still seen as turned PVH into an $8 billion giant. March for $775 million by Amazon. possible in this world when you have a brand hot commodities, but the proposition is some- com Inc. and somehow [they] think4 they have a brand, what different for department stores. Hudson’s COLLECTIVE SPLIT: Collective but there are very few [like] Michael Kors.” Bay Co., comprising The Bay and Lord & Taylor, Brands Inc. in June completed a $2 PRIVATE PL AY: Nike Inc. in Still, many are now looking for — if not the launched on the Toronto Stock Exchange last billion transaction with a consortium of November signed a deal to sell Cole Kors treatment — at least a better payday. month but has seen a modest slide in its price. investors that broke up the company. Haan to private equity firm Apax If Kors was sold as the next Coach, Tory The next big chain expected to go public Wolverine World Wide Inc. acquired Partners for $570 million. The Collective’s Performance + Lifestyle Burch is seen in the investment community is Neiman Marcus Inc. The $4.3 billion com- sneaker giant bought the brand in Group (Sperry Top-Sider, Saucony, 1988 for $95 million in cash and as the next Kors. Plenty of suitors are ready pany is coming off a strong year and has plans Stride Rite and Keds) for just over $1.2 debt. to buy a stake and bankers ready to take the to expand abroad through digital formats to billion, while two private equity firms, company public. For now, the process has supplement its more mature U.S. presence. Blum Capital Partners and Golden Gate TOP OF THE HEAP: Last week, been held up by the firm’s legal wrangling For Neiman’s, it will likely be the lure of luxe Capital, acquired Payless ShoeSource Sir completed the sale with Christopher Burch, the designer’s ex- and strong cash flow that draws investors, as and related licensing business for $800 of a 25 percent stake in his - husband, over his new C. Wonder chain. was the case when private equity firms TPG million. Topman businesses to U.S. private Sun Capital Partners-owned Kellwood Co. and Warburg Pincus acquired the business for equity firm Leonard Green & Partners is said to be considering an IPO for the quick- $5.1 billion, taking it private in 2005. DOUGLAS SAYS YES: German (no relation) for $564 million. The ly growing Vince business, which still is seen Despite the IPO misfires, the Kors offering perfumery, jewelry and fashion deal gave Ltd., Philip as a good candidate to expand abroad. There still shines brightest. If someone else repli- retail group Douglas Holding AG Green’s investment umbrella, zero are also a slew of European names mull- cates that success, brands might not just rush this month agreed to a $1.9 billion bank debt and a balance sheet that ing the public markets, including Moncler, into offerings, but stampede. marriage proposal from U.S. buyout is cash positive — and a war chest firm Advent International Corp. after for future acquisitions.

June 6: Denying sweatshop allegations, Pierre Cardin, Olivier Theyskens and transforms in the air to a clear mist — by Alexander Wang files its response to a Diane von Furstenberg. the bizarre performer. lawsuit in March alleging New York State labor law violations. July 5: Loath to secede haute supremacy July 13: Valentino is sold to Mayhoola for to the new guy in town, Karl Lagerfeld Investments, a private investor group from June 12: H&M reveals its upcoming wishes Raf Simons well and then rocks it Qatar, for around 700 million euros, or collaboration with Maison Martin Margiela. with a superb Chanel couture show. roughly $900 million. ▼ June 18: Saks Fifth Avenue revamps July 6: Forget glass slippers. Christian July 13: The Capitol Hill controversy its shoe strategy with a refurbished and Louboutin designs a pair of limited-edition, heightens after it’s learned that the uniforms expanded eighth-floor shoe department at 120-mm. heels for a modern-day Cinderella Ralph Lauren designs for the U.S. Olympic

the New York flagship. ANDREW in honor of Walt Disney’s rerelease of athletes were made in China. Lauren, an “Cinderella” on Blu-ray and DVD. Olympic sponsor, has pledged to make June 21: Hedi Slimane’s makeover of uniforms for the 2014 games in the U.S.

Yves Saint Laurent includes officially PHOTO BY WIRE/PRESS MILLIGAN/PA IMAGES ASSOCIATION July 11: Marvin Traub, one of retailing’s changing the YSL moniker to Saint Laurent. most famous and innovative merchants who July 16: Daffy’s, the cash-strapped off-price July 2: Fall 2012 couture collections kick led Bloomingdale’s to its trendiest, most chain, will shutter its doors. June 22: Doo-Ri Chung exits her off with Donatella Versace’s Atelier Versace fashionable heights, dies at age 87. namesake label. show at the Ritz Paris, site of so many of ▼ Gianni Versace’s couture triumphs. July 12: Proenza Schouler’s Lazaro June 26: Net-a-porter opens its first Hernandez and Jack McCollough prepare to headquarters outside of the U.K., July 3: There’s a new master in the open their first store, a 2,000-square-foot

landing in a 32,000-square-foot house. Raf Simons launches his Christian space on New York’s Upper Madison Avenue. LEXIE MORELAND space in New York’s Flatiron District. Dior era with his first couture collection for the brand. Guests at the show include July 13: WWD gives a first look at June 26: Nora Ephron dies at the Marc Jacobs, Alber Elbaz, Riccardo Lady Gaga Fame, the bizarre fragrance PHOTO BY age of 71. Tisci, Azzedine Alaïa, Donatella Versace, — a black juice that, when sprayed, 10 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012

SECTION II

THE YEAR IN FASHION TOP 10 STORIES Dance of the Designers The revolving doors in Paris ateliers inspired a stellar season. By Miles Socha

WHILE SOME believers in the Mayan Felicity Jones and Dianna Agron. Long Count Calendar view 2012 as the Chanel Dries Van Balenciaga And there were other standout end of the world, followers of fash- Noten shows, including Dries Van Noten’s ode ion observed new beginnings for a to grunge, and Jacobs for Louis Vuitton, host of talents at the highest levels of who had models arriving and exiting in European fashion. twos on escalators in perfect precision. Two of the most storied and presti- The designer shuffle affected smaller gious couture names in France — Yves houses, too. Sonia Rykiel, now under Saint Laurent and Christian Dior — the ownership of Fung Brands Ltd., welcomed new designers, setting the tapped a hidden talent, Geraldo da stage for one of the most electrifying Conceicao, to become its new artistic Paris seasons in years, and Jil Sander director. Da Conceicao joined Rykiel returned to once again helm her name- from Louis Vuitton, having also worked sake house after an eight-year absence. at Miu Miu and Yves Saint Laurent. Balenciaga also went for change, Fashion’s revolving door also swung naming Alexander Wang its new cre- at Azzaro, which said in October it was

ative director after parting ways with GIANNONI GIOVANNI parting ways with its creative director, Nicolas Ghesquière, who logged a stel- Mathilde Castello Branco, after a two- lar 15-year tenure at the house and will season collaboration. A successor has no doubt resurface soon, either launch- PHOTOS BY yet to be named. ing a signature brand or landing at an- Vionnet also bid adieu to its creative other famous brand. The seismic changes began erupt- head of design at Ermenegildo Zegna, directors Barbara and Lucia Croce after ing during Milan Fashion Week in with responsibility for that brand’s fash- a less than a year, and the brand’s ma- February, when acclaimed designer ion show as well as for the Ermenegildo jority owner, Goga Ashkenazi, has taken Raf Simons was ousted as creative di- Zegna Couture collection. on the role of chairwoman and creative rector at Jil Sander to make way for Simons’ arrival at Dior came after a director. And Christopher Kane part- the return of its founder, and when protracted search. The French house ed company with Versus, as Donatella YSL confirmed that Hedi Slimane — is said to have considered several can- Versace plans to design the collection in who ignited Dior Homme during a sev- didates — and contemplated moving collaboration with various young design- en-year stint and then devoted himself Marc Jacobs over from Louis Vuitton ers and stylists. to photography for five years — would — before ultimately settling on the According to Paris-based industry return to fashion design and become Belgian design star, prized for his de- consultant Jean-Jacques Picart, it’s no its new creative director. 5votion to modernism and freewheeling coincidence that studios have been in The latter appointment was widely approach to minimal design. so much flux. applauded, particularly by YSL stal- A host of designers, including “Since 2008, the entire world is chang- warts like Pierre Bergé and Betty Alber Elbaz and Jacobs, turned out for ing faster and faster. When the world Catroux. It was indeed a second com- Simons’ Dior couture debut last July, changes, fashion changes too,” he said. ing: Slimane had been the acclaimed staged in a townhouse wallpapered “Consumers have already changed their designer of Yves Saint Laurent Rive with a million fresh flowers. relationship with the offers of the brands. Gauche Homme in the late Nineties. But the ready-to-wear shows in late They don’t buy the same way as before. The development displaced Stefano September were the main event, with Their desire is no longer excited in the Pilati, who had succeeded at many designers raising the bar on same way and with the same formulas. YSL and helped the firm climb out of its their productions and collections so And when the desire is more difficult to debt hole and become a top-of-mind re- Slimane and Simons would not steal create, the brands are asking to them- source for leather goods and footwear. all the thunder. selves if their designers are still the most It was an elegant transition, with Chanel had 13 wind turbines churn- capable to create desirable collections.” Pilati offering his best wishes to Slimane ing over its runway at the Grand Palais, Paco Rabanne, Leonard, Cerruti, Saint — and landing on his feet a few months and Miuccia Prada pulled in a bevy of C.P. Company and Rena Lange were Laurent Dior later with a plum appointment: He starts hot actresses for her front row, includ- among other European names that had Jan. 1 as creative director of Agnona, and ing Emma Stone, Amanda Seyfried, designer comings and goings. Fashion Moments of 2012

July 16: Barneys New York opens its July 20: After five seasons consulting Aug. 10: Bigger must be better. Macy’s house’s newest women’s fragrance. new shoe department, a 22,000-square- on Tommy Hilfiger’s women’s runway Herald Square opens a major foot expanse that runs the width of a collection and accessories, Peter Som portion of “the world’s largest” Aug. 22: Diane von Furstenberg is city block and brings men’s and women’s gives up the gig. shoe floor, escalating the raging more powerful than Anna Wintour — at styles together. battle among Manhattan’s least according to Forbes. The magazine July 23: Coach Inc. scores a $44 retailers to conquer the ranks the designer 33rd and the Vogue July 17: EBay hooks up with Billy Reid, million judgment against a U.S.- footwear category. editor in chief 51st on its list of the Chris Benz, Fallon, Jonathan Adler, based mother-and-daughter duo world’s most powerful women. Ruffian, Steven Alan and Tibi to create operating Web sites advertising and Aug. 10: Marchesa’s Georgina the eBay Holiday Collective. selling counterfeit Coach handbags. Chapman and Keren Craig plan Aug. 23: At 5 a.m., fans start lining to take their signature glamour up outside the Uniqlo flagship in New July 27: Eighties Italian designer from the red carpet to fragrance York to meet new brand ambassador and Roméo Gigli makes a comeback in counters with their first scent, tennis champ Novak Djokovic. Hong Kong with luxury retailer Joyce. Marchesa Parfume d’Extase. Aug. 27: Business around West 34th Aug. 6: PPR forms a joint venture Aug. 13: Helen Gurley Street returns to normal following the with Yoox SpA to accelerate the online Brown, writer, publisher and fatal shooting of Steven Ercolino, 41, vice development of its various brands. businesswoman, dies in New president of sales at Hazan Import Corp., York at age 90. an accessories firm, near the

▲ Aug. 7: Fashion journalist Anna Empire State Building. STEPHANE FEUGERE Piaggi dies in Milan. Aug. 15: Banana Republic recruits ▲ to rev up its fashion Aug. 29: Barneys New York teams

PHOTO BY Aug. 9: Diana Vreeland will be offering in an advisory role. with Disney for “Electric Holiday,” the 19th recipient of a Rodeo holiday store windows and campaign July 19: Flat, sparkling or designer? Drive Walk of Style plaque, and Aug. 17: Actress Jessica Chastain is that reimagine classic cartoon Evian taps Diane von Furstenberg to the first editorial figure to be named Yves Saint Laurent’s ambassador characters as runway regulars, such create a 2013 limited-edition bottle. so honored. for Manifesto, the French fashion as Minnie Mouse — in Lanvin. MARCH FORWARD The Spring Fashion Issue.

Kristina O’neill’s debut. the new season of wsJ. Magazine. 3.5 milliOn global ConsuMeRs. 1.2 Million affluent wOmen. one Magazine to ReaCh theM.

Photography by Daniel Jackson The Spring FaShion iSSue. Issue Date February 16 | ClosIng Date January 4 | MaterIals Due January 11

The World’s Largest Luxury Magazine Anthony Cenname, Publisher Sources: 2012 Mendelsohn Afuent Survey, HHI $100K+, WSJ. Magazine prototype created by DJG Marketing; [email protected], 212.597.5663 2010 Wall Street Journal Asia/Europe Subscriber Studies; ABC UK Jan-Jun 12; BPA Worldwide Jan-Jun 12. DISCOVER THE LATEST HOLIDAY-WORTHY LOOKS FROM HUNDREDS OF BRANDS, INCLUDING THIS TRACY REESE DRESS AND BCBGMAXAZRIA CLUTCH AT AMAZON FASHION. FREE RETURNS ON ELIGIBLE ITEMS.

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Join the party at facebook.com/amazonfashion 14 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012

SECTION II

THE YEAR IN FASHION TOP 10 STORIES London

A global spotlight was focused on London. By British models , Karen Elson, and JEWEL SAMAD/AFP/GETTYIMAGES Times at the Olympics closing ceremony.

Samantha Conti PHOTO BY

NEARLY EVERY BRITON will re- signs at the Tower of London in March. cast worldwide, Jonathan Saunders tional designs. They ranged from a member the last 12 months as the year The pieces were engineered to suit dressed Emeli Sandé, who sang the cream Alexander McQueen broderie that the red, white and blue bunting 46 individual sports and all of them hymn “Abide With Me,” while Richard anglaise skirt for a tour of a Rolls- never came down. featured an abstract take on the Union James created the outfit for the Royce factory in Singapore, to a strap- The past year has seen an unprec- Jack in blue and white, with red details. Olympic flag bearer Haile Gebrselassie. less fuchsia and orange dress made edented string of celebrations, from McCartney also last month scooped Two weeks later, during the melody- locally in the Solomon Islands for a the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee, to the the Designer and Brand honors at the heavy closing ceremonies, models in- dinner hosted by the Governor General 2012 Summer Olympics, to the news annual British Fashion Awards for her cluding Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, at his private residence. this month that the Duke and Duchess efforts. Karen Elson, , Lily The duchess donned dresses by of Cambridge are expecting their first The athletes’ uniforms were not Cole and strutted down Jonathan Saunders, Alice by Temperley, child — an heir to the throne. the only show of British fashion on a Union Jack-shaped catwalk to David Project D and a matching skirt and It was a year to remember British London’s Olympics pitch. Bowie’s 1980 song “Fashion.” top by Raoul, in addition to other la- icons — and not just the Queen: The During the opening ceremony in They were dressed in one-of-a-kind bels. And she famously chatted about Rolling Stones and James Bond each July, Christopher Shannon, Michael gold outfits by some of London’s top her love of the designer discount marked 50 years in business. And the van der Ham and Nasir Mazhar — who names, including Alexander McQueen, mecca Bicester Village with a local British Fashion Council celebrated the are all based in London’s East End, Burberry, Christopher Kane, Erdem, Singaporean dignitary minutes after country’s stylish males with the un- not far from the Olympic stadium — Jonathan Saunders, Stephen Jones, stepping off the plane at Changi Airport. veiling in June of London Collections: dressed 350 of the 1,200 dancers who Victoria Beckham, Vivienne Westwood Next year is sure to bring more talk Men, a twice-yearly fashion showcase. took to the stage during a segment that and Paul Smith. of fashion — maternity fashion — as It was Stella McCartney, the first focused on late 20th- and 21st-century While the Olympics put a spotlight on the duchess prepares for the arrival of fashion designer ever to create uni- British music. Their costumes were British talent, it wasn’t so kind to retail. her first child — or children, if indeed forms for Team GB and Paralympics meant to represent the influence of The first week of the 2012 Games was she’s carrying twins. GB, who kicked off Britain’s celebra- British creativity on youth culture. disastrous for central London shops as But 2012 wasn’t only about women tory year when she unveiled her de- For that ceremony, which was broad- tourists and locals heeded the local gov- and women’s fashion: Following this ernment’s warnings about overcrowding year’s successful showcase, the BFC and stayed away from town. Olympics in January will stage the second edi- The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge and Prince spectators, meanwhile, spent their time tion of London Collections: Men, a Harry attend the Diamond Jubilee concert. and money at the Games’ Stratford venue. three-day event with runway shows “As soon as the Olympic torch went and presentations by labels includ- out, people began to buy again — it was ing Alexander McQueen, Tom Ford, 6like the flip of a switch,” said Michael Richard James and J.W. Anderson. Ward, managing director of Harrods, Each year, the British fashion indus- during a roundtable breakfast this fall, try gains momentum. sponsored by Walpole, the organization In a report issued this year, the BFC that promotes British luxury brands. estimated that more than 100 million Throughout the year, the Queen’s pounds, or $161 million, worth of orders Diamond Jubilee celebrations show- is placed each season, with three-quar- cased the royals’ fashion choices — ters of that money coming from abroad.

IMAGES WIRE/PRESS ASSOCIATION and especially those of the Duchess The industry contributes about 21 PA of Cambridge, whose nine-day Jubilee billion pounds, or $33.81 billion, to the trip to Southeast Asia with the duke U.K. economy — twice as much as the

PHOTO BY was a parade of British and interna- publishing or automobile industries. Fashion Moments of 2012

Aug. 30: It’s reported that vice Sept. 9: For the finale of his spring for Ralph Lauren Corp. presidential nominee Paul Ryan’s runway show, Alexander Wang kills the wife, Janna, wears a $169 Talbots lights and lights up the clothes, literally Sept. 11: First Lady Michelle Obama sheath to her husband’s debut on the — they glow in the dark. rockets Laura Smalls’ name onto the national stage at Republican convention. national scene by wearing two dresses Sept. 9: Google cofounder Sergey from the little-known designer during the Sept. 4: Stefano Pilati, who exited as Brin takes a bow with Diane von Democratic National Convention. Yves Saint Laurent’s creative director in Furstenberg at her spring show. He’s March, lands the creative director gig at there to introduce Glass by Google — Sept. 12: After two-and-a-half years Ermenegildo Zegna Group. a new technology that brings the as creative director at Diane von digital world to the user and tries Furstenberg, Yvan Mispelaere leaves ▲ Sept. 6: Katie Holmes is the first to stay out of the way. the company. He will not be replaced, celebrity to sign on as the face of Bobbi with the design team continuing to be Brown Cosmetics, where she’ll also serve Sept. 9: British brand Belstaff opens directed by von Furstenberg. as muse and collaborator. its first store in the U.S., on New York’s Madison Avenue. Sept. 13: Betsey Johnson celebrates Sept. 8: The young fashion brand her 70th birthday with a retrospective- NAHM, designed by Nary Manivong and Sept. 11: A former Gucci network cum-spring-show-cum-party, replete with Alexandria Hilfiger, closes shop. engineer is sentenced to between two a performance by Cyndi Lauper singing and six years in New York state prison for — what else? — “Girls Just Want to Sept. 8: The 15-year anniversary hacking into the luxury brand’s servers, Have Fun.” of Fendi’s Baguette bag is feted in causing more than $200,000 in damage. Los Angeles with a Baguettemania Sept. 13: Mary-Kate and Ashley pop-up shop and three bags Sept. 11: Ralph Lauren becomes a Olsen announce they will launch commissioned from artists Chaz STEPHEN SULLIVAN national corporate sponsor for PBS’ the first fragrance under their Bojorquez, Kenny Scharf and Pae White, “Masterpiece” drama series. It Elizabeth and James label with

and curated by Jeffrey Deitch. PHOTO BY represents the first TV sponsorship Sephora in March. © Olivier Roller

From Tuesday 12 to Thursday 14 February 2013 / spring summer 14 / The World’s Premier Fabric Show™ Parc d’Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte France / T. 1 [646] 351-1942 / [email protected] www.premierevision.com 16 WWD monday, december 10, 2012

SECTION II

the year in fashion top 10 stories Mobile Mojo Tablets are driving momentum in m-commerce. By Rachel Strugatz

MOBILE CONTINUES TO to the firm, a 17 percent experience varies by screen, according be a game-changer in retail. increase in e-commerce to research conducted by the firm ear- So much so that eBay spending year-over-year — lier this year that shows tablets have Inc.’s vice president of mo- also making it the second 20 times the conversion rate of smart- bile, Steve Yankovich, says time this holiday that online phones. Additionally, watch and jew- m-commerce is solely re- sales exceeded $1 billion in elry brands constitute 11 percent of all sponsible for changing the one day. tablet sales, L2 reported in June — the retail calendar, kicking off IBM Corp. revealed Nov. highest proportion of any industry. the online holiday shopping 27 that almost one-fifth of “One of the things that’s led to this season earlier than ever. consumers used a mobile explosion hasn’t been smartphone sales, Although Cyber Monday device to visit a retailer’s it’s been the tablet,” Mullen said. “The is still the biggest online site (an increase of more tablet is the device I think that has re- shopping day of the year, than 70 percent from 2011) ally spurred the mobile numbers up- it’s being thought less as and 13 percent of sales for wards. If you look at the actual [sales] the official day for online the day were conducted on being conducted on the small screen shopping, and more as part a mobile device. The iPad [smartphones], it’s still relatively small.” of a week of heavy online was responsible for 90.5 She differentiates between smart- spending activity that’s percent of all tablet traf- phone and tablet usage, noting that 60 starting to pick up right fic and 7 percent of online percent of smartphone searches have after Thanksgiving dinner. Sixty percent of shopping overall. some sort of local intent. To her, this According to eBay, which smartphone searches “The tablet is the most suggests that retailers and brands have projects $10 billion in mo- have some sort of transformative e-commerce a better opportunity to influence brick- bile sales by year’s end local intent. [channel] seen since the ad- and-mortar purchases on small screens (more than double that vent of e-commerce, and we than actually seeing mobile transactions. of 2011), Black Friday mobile sales see traffic, sales and conversion rates She cites Sephora as effectively Sephora’s mobile app. this year were 2.5 times higher than on the iPad continuing to explode,” using the7 smartphone to enhance the just in terms of consummating pur- last, with the site offering its iPhone said Maureen Mullen, director of re- in-store experience. The beauty re- chases, but changing how consumers app users exclusive access to mobile search and advisory at New York tailer’s app, which has seen more than are shopping in general,” Mullen said, deals through Monday evening. Cyber University think tank two million downloads drawing a comparison to Amazon ver- Monday saw more than a 200 percent Luxury Lab, or L2. since 2009, allows con- sus other brands and retailers. “They increase in mobile transactions, com- According to Mullen, sumers to get more [Amazon] are investing 70 percent of pared with the same day last year. almost one in four Web products and link to their capital in fulfillment operations PayPal reported global payment vol- site visits on Black their Insider Rewards in technology. It’s not the flashy creative ume tripled and GSI Commerce saw a Friday occurred from a while they physically site, it’s how can you get product in peo- 287 percent increase in mobile sales, non-PC device (either a shop — which is how ple’s hands as quickly as possible.” year-over-year. smartphone or tablet). Mullen sees the role of But enter eBay Now, eBay’s most EBay’s biggest mobile shopping day This number is up 16 the smartphone within recent mobile effort at welding m-com- to date was Dec. 2 — outpacing Black percent from 2011. the retail landscape merce and the brick-and-mortar expe- Friday and Cyber Monday. PayPal re- She emphasized that right now. rience — which can provide product ported global payment volume on this even though mobile Amazon commands delivery in as little as one hour after day surpassed that of Cyber Monday by traffic sales have bal- more than one-third a mobile purchase is made. The tech- $1 million. looned — overindexing of the world’s m-com- nology software launched this summer ComScore Inc. reported Dec. 5 that across luxury and fash- merce sales — and in San Francisco and in New York last online sales for the holiday season — ion specifically because Mullen doesn’t expect month. Via geo-sensing location tech- the period from Nov. 1 to Dec. 2 — have of the demographic sur- this to change. nology from Milo and seamless pay- reached $21.35 billion, a 14.4 percent rounding ownership — “Amazon has com- ment options from PayPal, consumers spike from last year. Cyber Monday not all screens are cre- pletely transformed are eligible for same-day shipping from sales took in $1.46 billion according ated equal. The mobile EBay Now shopping behavior, not hundreds of retailers. Fashion Moments of 2012

Sept. 14: Oscar de la Renta takes Oct. 2: With YSL references everywhere, Oct. 8: Yoox Group launches a Chinese Oct. 11: Stephen Colbert talks to WWD, out a full-page ad in WWD to publish Karl Lagerfeld creates an illustrated “No version of its e-commerce site at Yoox.cn offering some presidential advice along an “open letter” that takes Cathy Smoking Here” sign at Chanel’s Rue with capsule collections and end-of- the way: “Obama maybe should take a Horyn to task for calling him a hot Cambon studios. “We don’t have to do season clothing and accessories from top Red Bull. Get your head in the game. For dog and alleging he copied Raf smoking,” he says. “Hedi Slimane really designers worldwide. Mitt, I would just keep grinning. He’s a Simons’ styles at Dior in her does it well.” very handsome man. He’s got excellent review of his spring show. Oct. 8: Queen Elizabeth II approves an hair. As long as you keep concentrating honorary award that will make Bernard on the smile and the hair, then you don’t Sept. 18: Rebekka Bay, a former top Arnault, chairman and chief executive think too much about what he’s saying.” designer at H&M, is named creative officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis director and executive vice president for Vuitton and French citizen, a Knight Oct. 19: Level Shoe District, the world’s Gap Global Design. Commander of the Most Excellent Order largest shoe store, opens in Dubai Mall

Giannoni Giovanni of the British Empire. with more than 96,000 square feet of ▲ Sept. 24: Jil Sander presents her space and a selection of up to 15,000 first women’s collection in eight years for Oct. 8: A dispute over a 400-item different styles at any one time. photo by the house that bears her name — but no portfolio of Yves Saint Laurent’s drawings longer her ownership. and personal items erupts, involving Pierre Bergé; Fabrice Thomas, a Sept. 27: Comme des Garçons’ Rei former Saint Laurent lover; a German Kawakubo will create a range of covers for businessman, and a possible police iPads and Macbooks in collaboration with investigation and criminal complaint. Paper Rain. ▲ Oct. 11: Taylor Swift’s empire Oct. 1: Swiss label Akris fetes its continues to grow with a three-year 90th birthday in Paris with guests like partnership with Keds. The singer will Charlene, Princess of , and Swiss play a pivotal role in the new direction politician Doris Leuthard. of the brand.

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18 WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012

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THE YEAR IN FASHION TOP 10 STORIES

a 21.8 percent sales spike. Socks and tie and dress shoes. And he’s em- hosiery have risen 11.9 percent, un- bracing brands with a rich American Man on derwear is up 6.7 percent, outerwear heritage, giving a boost to labels High-Low Fling up 5.8 percent and bottoms up 5.7 such as , Hickey percent. Interestingly, tailored cloth- Freeman, Woolrich, Pendleton, The collaboration between ing is actually slightly down so far in Macintosh and others. Fire the year, dipping 1.97 percent to $4.41 This has opened up a window of Target and Neiman Marcus billion from $4.49 billion last year. opportunity for stores. made an unusual pairing. New looks and new Earlier in the year, neckwear was In the spring, Barneys New York particularly strong. For the 12 months tweaked its tailored-clothing floor, By Sharon Edelson. customers are propelling ended in March, neckwear sales mixing sportswear and clothing a resurgence in the jumped a remarkable 23 percent to from classic vendors such as Brioni “STRANGE BEDFELLOWS” and “Opposites $701.2 million, according to NPD. and Kiton for the first time. But it Attract” blared the headlines when Target and men’s business. The results are being felt across re- was certainly not alone. Saks Fifth Neiman Marcus in July unveiled a joint collec- By Jean E. Palmieri tail, with stores from luxury retailers Avenue this fall completed a reno- tion of designer holiday gifts. The to the more moderate chains experi- vation of its flagship, merging all new odd couple said they were MEN’S WEAR is on a roll. encing an uptick. And while the third classifications from its core vendors simply two retailers with an appre- Driven in large part by slim sil- quarter was a bit of an anomaly, with into lifestyle shops. “We don’t have a ciation for great design, developing houettes in tailored clothing and fur- major men’s chains stumbling a bit, suit department and we don’t have inspired products and exploiting nishings — and a fashion-conscious most retailers believe the momentum a sportswear department anymore,” each other’s strengths. young guy — the once-plodding men’s will continue into 2013. In the period said Eric Jennings, men’s fashion In Target’s case, it’s exposure sector is running at a sprinter’s clip. ended Oct. 27, The Men’s Wearhouse director. “Men have so many more and production know-how. With Vivid colors in classifications such Inc. missed analysts’ expectations and options in the way they dress today.” 1,781 U.S. stores, Target can put as jeans and khakis, military themes, reduced its guidance for the fourth Earlier, Saks had renovated its the collection in front of 2.5 mil- heritage brands and updated patterns quarter despite a 22.5 percent rise accessories area to capitalize on the lion pairs of eyes daily. It also have also boosted the sportswear sec- in net income and a 7.9 percent in- trend in this popular category. “Men knows how to manufacture with- tor. Even categories such as hosiery crease in sales. The week before, Jos. are now asking what the right bags out paying an arm sleeve and pant A. Bank Clothiers Inc. said net income and shoes are,” said Tom Ott, Saks’ leg. Neiman’s, for its part, brings fell 11.2 percent on an 11.1 percent senior vice president and general cachet to the 9table. The retailer gain in sales. The business, notably, merchandise manager of men’s. operates 42 stores in affluent lo- was highly promotional. Not to be outdone, Bloomingdale’s cales and has the clout to work Even so, the retailers said con- this fall overhauled the furnish- with most designers, who consider temporary tailored clothing and ings and accessories area at its 59th it fashion retail’s holy grail. dress shirts continued to drive sales. Street flagship, installing main-floor Target + Neiman Marcus is an Doug Ewert, chief executive officer shops for Gucci, Prada and Louis unprecedented effort. Not only did of Men’s Wearhouse, said the “growth Vuitton and refreshing the assortment a mass merchant and luxury spe- drivers include modern and slim-fit for standbys such as Thomas Pink, cialty store hook up, but the num- suits and sport coats.” Neal Black, Turnbull & Asser and others. David ber of designers and products was daunting — 24 Shorter ceo of Jos. A. Bank, also pointed to Fisher, executive vice president of Council of Fashion Designers of America design- trunks like 8suits as a top performer. men’s wear, said the rejiggering is a ers created at least 50 gifts. these from During the year, retailers invested reflection of the continued strength in “We have never been involved with anything Parke & in upgrading their stores the men’s business, which has like this with another retailer,” said Kathee Ronen are and tweaking their mer- had “incredible growth” over Tesija, Target’s executive vice president of chandising strategies to the past few years. “We’ve got merchandising. “Certainly, Neiman Marcus has driving the KRISTIINA WILSON appeal to a younger guy some grease on the wheel,” great relationships with all of these designers. swimwear who is seeking an updat- he said. Twenty-four at one time might have been a little business. ed shopping experience. Bergdorf Goodman com- tricky for us.” PHOTO BY He’s comfortable mixing pleted a yearlong project that “Target really has the supply chain to help and swimwear have found fans, as bold brands and classifica- resulted in a completely new get these products designed and manufactured patterns in socks and shorter lengths tions, seamlessly merging third-floor contemporary de- at the quality level we both want,” said Karen in swimsuits have taken hold. New suits and suit separates signer department and the Katz, president and chief executive officer of brands and updated fabrics have given to create his own individ- creation of a shoe library on Neiman Marcus. “We don’t do very much direct life to the men’s underwear category. ual style. He’s even hav- the first floor that tripled the sourcing. That is not necessarily a strength of Men’s sales through the end of ing an indelible impact space devoted to that catego- ours. We could give lots of introductions to all October have risen 4.4 percent to on the more traditional RODOLFO MARTINEZ r y. As ceo Joshua Schulman the designers, but from a supply chain perspec- $55.91 billion from $53.57 billion in shopper whose wardrobe summed, “[With men’s among tive, [Target] is extremely well-equipped.”

2011, according to The NPD Group. now seems obsolete. PHOTO BY the] fastest-growing catego- Target has a long history of working with This is on top of a 4.2 percent gain in The new men’s wear ries of business industry- designers, first through its Go International 2011. By category, swimwear has led customer thinks nothing Gucci’s slim suit, wide, it was the appropriate program and more recently with The Shops at the way, with a jump in sales of 22.3 of wearing a suit jacket Prada’s shirt and time to make the investment Target. The mass retailer has also partnered percent, followed by sleepwear with with a denim shirt, bow Alexander Olch’s tie. and statement.” with luxury retailers in the past. Target in 2008 Fashion Moments of 2012

Oct. 24: Sisters Penélope and Mónica Nov. 8: Labelux sells the Derek Nov. 20: Versus parts with Christopher Cruz line up a design collaboration with Lam brand back to founders Lam and Kane to focus on a seasonless line Agent Provocateur for its first diffusion Jan-Hendrik Schlottmann. Terms are with a digital element, capsule line, called L’Agent. not disclosed. collections, co-branding projects and limited editions designed by Donatella Oct. 29: Neiman Marcus Group’s Karen GIANNONI GIOVANNI Nov. 12: Barneys New York unveils Versace and rotating designers, stylists Katz unveils her true feelings about the Disneyfied fashion characters, including and creative talents. competition: “I have been known to use Ed Filipowski, Lady Gaga, Anna Dello PHOTO BY a Neiman Marcus bag when I am going Russo, Cathy Horyn and WWD’s own to hyperventilate,” she joked at Fashion Bridget Foley, as part of a short film for Group International’s Night of Stars. “But its “Electric Holiday” campaign. if I am going to be really sick, I pick up a Saks Fifth Avenue bag.” Nov. 13: The Council of Fashion Designers of America and Vogue Nov. 4: Ralph Lauren Corp. plans to magazine join numerous fashion houses shutter its Rugby brand. Fourteen stores and launch Fashion for Sandy Relief, and the e-commerce site will close over an initiative that serves as a collective the balance of fiscal 2013. industry fund-raiser. Earlier, Ralph Lauren and Coach Inc. both donate $2 million ▲ Nov. 6: PPR reveals Nicolas each to Sandy relief efforts, while Michael Ghesquière will exit Balenciaga, the house Kors, PVH Corp, the Samuel I. Newhouse he helped rebuild. Less than a month later, Foundation, Hearst Corp. and Time Warner ▲ Nov. 21: Yoko Ono reveals she Alexander Wang is named creative director. Inc. each give $1 million. is creating a limited-edition men’s clothing line for Opening Ceremony Nov. 7: Delaware judge Leo Shrine weighs Nov. 13: Holt Renfrew, Canada’s with 18 styles based on a series of in on the Burches’ legal tiffs, calling them premier luxury specialty store chain, sketches she did for John Lennon a “drunken WASP fest.” marks its 175 birthday. in 1969. WWD MONDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2012 19

WWD.COM

introduced its first line of eco-friendly apparel off ” retail concept C. Wonder, while designed by Rogan Gregory, putting it on sale Fight Club he accuses her of keeping him from first at Barneys New York. pursuing other business ventures as Both Target and Neiman’s revved up the he tried to sell his stake in her com- hype machine. No expense was spared for the Was it something in the pany, which they founded. ad campaign, with Craig McDean photograph- In mid-October, the year-and-a- ing print ads and directing TV commercials. water? Cattiness ran half-long war between Yves Saint Karlie Kloss was featured, prancing in black rampant this year, with Laurent SA and Christian Louboutin vinyl leggings among the gifts and popping out lawsuits, name-calling and SA over red soles ended, when YSL of a white box, gift-like, with a huge bow on top dropped the lawsuit against the cob- of her head. “The Target + Neiman Marcus col- that now-infamous fashion bler, after he had sued the French laboration needed an execution that was at the slap. By Marc Karimzadeh fashion house in April 2011, claim- highest level of fashion,” said Robin Derrick, ing that it infringed on the footwear executive creative director at Spring Studios. brand’s trademark when it sold red IF THERE’S ONE fashion lesson to pumps with red soles. YSL can con- be learned in 2012, it would be this: tinue to sell the monochrome shoes. Products in Keep your lawyer on speed-dial. Other firms that squared off in- the Target + The year had a heaping helping cluded Gucci and Guess, with the Neiman Marcus of name-calling and nasty lawsuits Italian fashion house winning part collection. that often veered from the profes- of its trademark infringement law- sional into the personal sphere suit against Guess and its licensees, — and one memorable physical as- including Marc Fisher and Signal sault. Together, these incidents gave Products Inc. Then there is the ongo- credence to the cliche that fashion is ing legal tangle that involves Macy’s one bitchy business. Inc., J.C. Penney Co. Inc. and Martha Take, for instance, the melee Stewart over the two retailers’ sepa- at the Zac Posen runway show in rate arrangements with the house- Tor y Burch is embroiled in a legal

September. When fire marshals hold diva. dispute over ex-husband Christopher STEVE EICHNER 9 pulled 60 chairs before the show, it In Milan, and Burch’s C. Wonder store (below). left the p.r. team at HL Group scram- got into a tiff, with PHOTO BY bling to seat some guests. Marie- Cavalli unleashing his fury José Susskind-Jalou, president of at Armani’s decision to the Jalou publishing house, and her shift his show date and call- JOHN AQUINO daughters, Jennifer Eymere and ing him the “Little King.” Vanessa Bellugeon of Jalouse and Armani retorted: “Cavalli

PHOTO BY L’Officiel magazines, respectively, should be quiet, because the were not pleased, and a heated argu- ‘Little King’ could start to The program has garnered a few sour re- ment between them and HL Group get angry.” views, however. In a Dec. 6 research note, cofounder Lynn Tesoro10 landed critic Deutsche Bank analyst Charles Grom conclud- p.r. veteran a slap in the face. Cathy Horyn found herself ed that “the collection is indeed off to a much If that weren’t shocking enough, in flaps on both sides of the worse-than-expected start” and selling better at Eymere’s post-slap recap to WWD Atlantic. In Paris, she butt- Neiman’s than at Target. In response, a spokes- certainly was. “It was a small slap,” ed heads with new Saint ERICKSEN KYLE man for the mass retailer said, “This collection she said. “It was not strong. I didn’t Laurent creative director

was never intended to be a one-day shopping hurt her, it was just to humiliate Hedi Slimane. She wasn’t PHOTO BY event. A lot of the media have been benchmark- her. She humiliated my mom, and I invited to the show but still ing this program to [the popular September humiliated her in front of her crew. gave the collection she saw online a said that “Mr. de la Renta is far more 2011] Missoni partnership, and it’s not. We Voilà. I just said at the end, ‘Now you tepid review. Slimane tweeted that a hot dog than an eminence grise of more than doubled the inventory for Target + know you don’t f--k with French peo- Horyn is “a schoolyard bully and also American fashion.” De la Renta was Neiman Marcus and put product limitations in ple.’” Tesoro, in turn, filed a lawsuit a little bit of a stand-up comedian. not amused. He responded to Horyn place” so consumers would be able to shop the against the Parisian trio to recover “As far as I’m concerned, she will by taking out a full-page ad in WWD, collection through the holiday season. damages for “assault, battery, emo- never get a seat at Saint Laurent, but writing an open letter: “If you have The Target spokesman said anywhere from a tional distress, slander and/or libel.” might get 2-for-1 at Dior,” he blasted. the right to call me a hot dog, why do handful to 150 people lined up at most stores on She wasn’t the only one seeking “I don’t mind [criticisms], but they I not have the right to call you a stale Dec. 1, the day the line launched, and traffic on- legal action, as acrimonious lawsuits have to come from a fashion critic, three-day-old hamburger?” line was similar to Black Friday. “This is the first made headlines throughout the year. not a publicist in disguise.” If that weren’t spicy enough, Lady time we pulled a collection into one area, like Case in point: the ongoing battle of No feud, however, was quite as Gaga added her two cents in support a shop within a shop,” he said. “We heard from the Burches. Tory Burch alleges that tasty as the one that flared up be- of the designer, which then prompt- some guests that it wasn’t as easy to find, so we her ex-husband Chris Burch pur- tween Oscar de la Renta and Horyn ed Horyn’s beau, Art Ortenberg, to worked quickly to relocate the shop and make it posely gleaned information about her during September’s New York lash out at the singer. As he put it, more visible.” brand in order to create the “knock- Fashion Week. In her review, she had “Grow up, Gaga.”

Robert E. Gray Jack Mulqueen IN MEMORIAM Alan Greco Anna Piaggi The following people from the Lea Gottlieb Alberto Pinto TIM JENKINS Herbert Grossman Steven F. Powers worlds of fashion, retail, beauty Joseph M. Haggar Jr. Yvonne Presser and media died this year. George R. Hearst Jr. Janet Reis PHOTO BY David Helpern Don Robbie Nicola Bardelle Robert “Bob” Hertel Estelle Ellis Rubinstein Shale Baskin Jeffrey Johnson David Rubin ▲ Nov. 26: L’Wren Scott unveils the Lillian Bassman Zelda Kaplan Gloria Sachs costumes she created for beau Mick Antoine Bernheim Harriet Kassman David Salem Jagger for the “50 & Counting: The Philippe Paul Camille Bertrand Herb Kelhoffer Vidal Sassoon Rolling Stones Live” tour. Frank Eugene “Gene” Bobo Jr. Howard Kissel Arnold Seckler Dick Braeger Carole Kotler Harriet Selwyn Nov. 27: Comme des Garçons’ Rei Joseph E. Brooks Lester Kronfeld Sandra Seroy Kawakubo collaborates with Hermès on Helen Gurley Brown Arnold Kramer Jr. Leonardo Servadio two limited-edition collections of silk carré Ray Brual Charla Krupp Anthony Shadid scarves dubbed Comme des Carrés. Ross Burton Edouard Leclerc Arthur Ochs Sulzberger Alden Clanahan Jacques Levy Eliana Tranchesi Dec. 5: Ambassador Anna? After her Nicole Crassat Giuseppe Marenzi Marvin Traub outspoken support for President Obama Dorino Della Valle Giannino Marzotto Alan Tucker and hefty sums donated to and raised for Nora Ephron Susan J. Masterson Keith Varty his reelection, rumors swirl that the Vogue Steven Ercolino Terry Mayer Barbara Warner editor in chief could be under consideration Ricardo Fisas John Robert Miller Lawrence Wechsler for an ambassadorship to the Court of St. George Friedman Nolan Miller Jack Weinstock James’s, or to France. She will certainly Martin Thomas Gattins Bill Moggridge Barbara D’Arcy White know what to wear to state dinners. Aron Goldfarb Neillí Mulcahy Allan Zwerner 20 WWD monday, december 10, 2012

SECTION II

the year in fashion beauty’s big moments Beauty CEOs in the Hot Seat This year saw high-profile executive exits and endless speculation. By Molly Prior

AccusAtions flew. wall street Mccoy took over as Avon’s ceo in April August, Michele scannavini, the for- pointed fingers. Board members grum- from Johnson & Johnson, with Jung mer president of coty Prestige, as- bled. And revolving doors spun. it was a moving into the role of executive chair- sumed the top spot. Beetz’s departure tumultuous year for a handful of major man. But not before coty inc. came call- was seen as abrupt, as it happened Andrea Jung Bob McDonald beauty firms. ing with a bold bid to acquire the much after the initial iPo paperwork had Ackman took aim at the company’s per- the excitement started early in 2012 larger company. Avon rebuffed the offer, been filed in June. Beetz — who grew formance and that of McDonald, calling when Avon Products inc. began search- prompting coty to go down the path to- the company’s sales nearly threefold P&G “a very fat and bloated company.” ing for a new chief executive officer to ward an initial public offering. to $4.1 billion since his arrival in 2001 Despite the public call for a leader- replace Andrea Jung after a series of Despite Avon’s recent lackluster — is widely credited as the architect ship change, P&G’s board pronounced executional missteps and disappointing earnings, Mccoy promised to tackle the of the post-elizabeth taylor celebrity it was standing by McDonald and his earnings. Jung, who had served as the company’s challenges with a slow and fragrance revival and the mastermind strategy to fix what ails the $83.7 billion very visible face of the company to both steady approach. “we know what the behind coty’s aim to move deeper into firm. McDonald, for his part, waved off wall street and the firm’s 6,000 direct- problems are and they are solvable,” skin care and cosmetics. the criticism and ploughed ahead with sales representatives for 12 years, faced she told wall street analysts in october. Procter & Gamble co. chairman, a turnaround plan designed to rebuild an unrelenting onslaught of criticism Jung plans to step down as executive president and ceo Bob McDonald also market share, accelerate product in- for Avon’s mounting troubles. they in- chairman at the end of this year. found himself fending off criticism in novation and cut costs. Dubbed the 40- cluded an ongoing investigation by the things at coty weren’t quiet for 2012. the consumer products giant’s 20-10 plan, the strategy is focused on securities and exchange commission long either. several months after coty lackluster performance and market- P&G’s 40 largest businesses, top 20 in- tied to allegations that the company began the process for its long-awaited share losses attracted the attention of novations and 10 most important devel- bribed government officials in china, iPo, the company’s ceo, Bernd Beetz, activist investor william Ackman of oping markets, all while wringing out and possibly in other countries. sheri stepped down from the top post. in Pershing square capital Management. $10 billion in costs by 2016. Hair Aging: Celebrity Fragrances on the Move By Julie nAuGhton sephora. in the u.s., the brand The New Frontier had a very fast start and then lost this wAs the YeAr of the ce- some ranks while other initia- By BelisA silvA lebrity beauty merry-go-round: tives were hitting the market. it some jumped on, some jumped off. remains in the season to date one MAss hAir manufacturers in 2012 began looking the scent licenses of Justin of the best initiatives of the year.” to the skin-care world for inspiration on a bevy Bieber and nicki Minaj moved Adam levine, who had in the of new products. incorporating antiaging ingredi- from Give Back Brands to past publicly disdained celebrity ents once reserved for facial creams, brands like elizabeth Arden inc., while coty fragrances — he tweeted the fol- l’oréal Paris, Pantene and nexxus have begun acquired Katy Perry’s fragrance lowing on March 5, 2011: “i also to roll out hair-care collections designed to turn licensee, Gigantic Brands. Avril would like to put an official ban on back the clock, right down to the roots. lavigne, whose fragrances are celebrity fragrances. Punishable for its part, l’oréal Paris’ Advanced hair care done with Procter & Gamble, by death from this point forward.” collection, which will be launched in January, fea- signed on to create salon effects — announced he is doing one for tures ingredients like hyaluronic and arginine, real nail Polish strips for sally iD Perfumes. the project, a fra- and is built around the idea of adding treatment hansen in April. grance masterbrand called 222 by items into consumers’ daily hair-care regimens. “this is pretty much the coolest Adam levine, is due out in May. “right now, u.s. women believe that only skin thing, because i also do clothing — Lady Gaga “People do this to make money, care warrants an ongoing regimen,” said l’oréal i love clothing, nails and fragrance, at Macy’s. i’m not going to lie to you,” he told Paris usA president hair, makeup, all that stuff,” said wwD in March. “obviously, there’s Karen fondu. “they see lavigne during an exclusive phone a financial part to this as well. But hair as a quick fix when, interview with wwD .“i was really the stage where i thought it was there are other things that come really, it deserves and excited about the salon effects good enough. And if i’m not going into play, too, and i’m not just needs the same multi- real nail Polish strips — especial- to wear it, i’m not going to sell it.” going to sign off on something if i step approach as skin ly since they’re superquick. in her typical shock-producing don’t love it. i want to tailor it to care to be at its best.” “i’ll be flying on a plane and be way, Gaga told wwD of her scent, me as much as humanly possible.” Meanwhile, Pantene’s like, ‘s--t i need to do my nails,’” a “i don’t think it really matters how And then there was the story expert range, launched candid lavigne added in January. it smells. i’m not trying to be funny, heard around the world (literally): in november, is de- “i can do these on a plane; i’ve but i guess what i’m trying to say the interview Katie holmes gave signed to tackle the side done them in the car. the de- is that in the celebrity fragrance to wwD in september, the first effects from hair aging signs that i came up with are my world, you’re buying a fragrance after her high-profile divorce from t ho M as i annaccone with skin-care-inspired personal style and vibe — they’re because you like the celebrity. so tom cruise. A personable holmes technology, discovered rock ’n’ roll and fun and bright the challenge for me was to say — who is working with the Bobbi in partnership with olay and colorful. Yo u have sparkles that i’m going to create something Brown brand as its first celebrity antiaging experts. and little stars — they are cute.… that i think you would love if you face and collaborator — talked “i was not expecting i think this offers self-expression, didn’t like me. [Also,] it’s a nice and about everything from holmes & how my hair was chang- and it’s a really smart, versatile expensive way for steven Klein Yang, her fashion line with her

ing as i got older. [it] way to show your style.” and nick Knight to take a big p--s longtime stylist Jeanne Yang, to s te V e ichne R ; l ' oR eal by was starting to get dr y, two of the most talked-about, on commercialism.…this is not me how her Midwestern upbring- L’Oréal Paris’ brittle and thinner,” said hotly anticipated fragrances fi- in the bottle — it’s an expression of ing and crafts with her daughter antiaging hair line. courteney cox, the face of nally came to market: Madonna me and my relationship to fame as suri help keep her feet on the g aga by the collection, which was with truth or Dare in April, and a performer. the darkness stays in- ground. “i spray-paint shoe racks, formulated with ingredi- lady Gaga, with fame — said to side the bottle and out comes only because, why not?” But she said ents like caffeine niacinamide and panthenol, com- be the first black-tinted juice on the beautiful parts of fame.” with a laugh that said projects monly found in youth-promising facial products. the market — in August. Both are Despite some grumblings in aren’t always successful: “i think, p elt; Ross Van in January, nexxus will add to the growing produced by coty. the market, renato semerari, ‘oh, i’m a great mom’ — and then trend with Youth renewal, a range of five hair- “the time was right,” Madonna president of coty Beauty, a divi- it doesn’t really pan out the way i care offerings, including a noticeably skin-care- told wwD in April of partner- sion of coty inc., said, “the lady think it’s going to. But the inten- like serum, designed to address eight visible signs ing with coty Prestige. “i’ve been Gaga fame launch has been one tion’s there.” And while it might be of hair aging. working off and on on various of the best launches of the season. expected that holmes would hate “it’s a well known fact that the American pop- fragrances over the years, and the brand has reached top ranks the fourth estate — which basi- ulation is aging,” said David rubin, marketing [have been] approached by a lot in all key markets from Australia, cally stalked her after her divorce

director for hair at unilever. “what we’ve done of companies and have tried to to europe to north America. — she takes it in stride. “there Melanie Dunea; Mc D onal by is dove in deeply on this woman and what are create fragrances. they were al- even in countries where celeb- are a lot of people with much big- the signs of aging hair and to combat them so ways abandoned projects....every rity fragrances have historically ger problems and who are less that women who are getting older can still have time i tried to create the scent i struggled, like france, the brand fortunate,” she told wwD. “i try to

beautiful hair.” was looking for, it never reached positioned itself in the top 10 at keep it all in perspective.” Jung photo by

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THE YEAR IN FASHION THE HOT PARTIES OF THE YEAR

Poppy Delevingne at Chanel’s “The Little Black Jacket” book party.

Erin Wasson at the Chopard- and Harvey Weinstein-hosted Liberty Ross at the Alexander Mystery party. Wang spring 2013 after party. REVEL REVEL

The chic set had a jam-packed, high-octane year. From the celebratory fetes of fashion weeks to the summer’s bashes, the fall’s gussied-up galas and the decidedly cool Art Basel parties as the year wound down, the social calendar was delightfully dogged. The Eye Donatella Versace and Lady Gaga at the Versace Vibe store opening. takes a look at the standout soirees of 2012.

Minka Kelly and Drew Kanye West and Barrymore at the Kim Kardashian at Los Angeles County Karolina Kurkova Chanel’s Tribeca Jason Wu and Museum of Art’s Art at the Costume Film Festival Artists at Bergdorf Goodman’s 111th + Film Gala. Institute gala. Program dinner. Anniversary bash.

Lil’ Kim performing at amfAR’s at Opening Cinema Against Ceremony’s AIDS gala. 10-Year Anniversary party.

Rihanna and Stella McCartney at a dinner feting TIM JENKINS AND LEXIE MORELAND STEPHANE FEUGERE, AMY GRAVES, STEVE EICHNER, the London Olympics. PHOTOS BY 22 WWD monday, december 10, 2012

SECTION II

the year in fashion t alking points

“What happened to Jason Wu I’m thinking, ‘Look, if I’m only happens in the West. Can standing next to Karl, Giorgio you imagine if the Chinese press or Ralph, I’ll be in the crowd.’ talked more about a dress than They’re much older, by the way, the leader himself? The political so I have a long way to go.” clients I have all request that I — Tommy Hilfiger, on make something very subdued designers’ influence, March 12 They Said It and not eye-catching. The last thing they want is to outshine “When we opened the store their husbands.” on New York’s Fifth Avenue, I The highly quotable are at it again. Compiled by Dianne M. Pogoda — Chinese couturiere Guo thought that we had realized Pei, Feb. 22 the American dream. In “My entire career, it’s always best lesson in the world — that ‘It’s models off duty!’ I was Japan’s Ginza, it’s the same been like, ‘Oh, [pre-fall is] just a designer is a designer, even a stupid 21-year-old when I “I still feel like a misfit at thing — I think it’s a symbol of a selling collection.’ It has so if she’s designing toothbrushes said that. I didn’t know how to things like this, but a better- the Japanese dream.” many boxes to check and it and hospital gowns.” talk to the press. I’d mention dressed misfit.” — Tadashi Yanai, on Uniqlo, becomes such a chore and I just — Donna Karan, Jan. 17 something like that, and — Michelle Williams at the March 16 hated that. There’s more and they’d blow it up to big, crazy Oscars, Feb. 26 more [to do] for all of us. I look “If there was a Hollywood of extremes. In a certain way, it “ Yo u have to read it. It’s like a at it not only from my point of clothes, this would be it. If you helped us define a look to a “It has taken me a long time to reality show about my life.” view but from [editors’] point want to be a preppie, if you certain audience.” accept that I am not as tall as I — Roberto Cavalli, about his of view, like, Why would you want to be a businessman on — Alexander Wang, Feb. 8 think I am.” blog, March 19 just want to go look at another Wall Street, if you want to be — Paula Abdul, Feb. 29 showroom? What a drag.” a renegade in Utah. This is “I try to stay away from the “I don’t much love the talk of — Stella McCartney, Jan. 10 really about movies to me — media as much as I can....I try “The world is tiny now. In 1981, ‘brand’ and ‘brand managers’ and stories and details.” not to take it too personally, when I was starting out, our — I prefer ‘the magazine’ and “I wanted to work at Women’s — Ralph Lauren, on his fall because I don’t think they do idea of global was Canada. We ‘editors.” Wear Daily, as an illustrator, men’s collection, Jan. 31 it just to me. But as a human thought Holt Renfrew was a — David Remnick, April 2 and went for an interview. being, it feels like that. You feel foreign account.” John Fairchild told me that “People say everything has a like you’re the only one being — Michael Kors, March 6 “I have to say, I would prefer I had better take up design, limit, but limits do not exist picked on. But the truth is, they to do the shuffle in sneakers. because I wasn’t good enough with Madonna.” pick on everybody. They really “Well, I look at the old guard, If you want to drop it like it’s to be an illustrator. I went to — Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci, don’t discriminate.” because the old guard had a hot, it’s good to wear flats, Parsons, but I didn’t graduate. who designed the singer’s — Jennifer Lopez, Feb. 9 certain way of doing things, because then your booty gets Yo u know that? I had to go Super Bowl costumes, Feb. 7 like a [Yves] Saint Laurent or a really close to the floor, but to summer school, because I “I wear a lot of black. You bit of [Christian] Dior. The way then there are things you can failed draping. I showed them. “I’ve matured, and that know what, black’s easier. The they did the collections way do in heels that you can’t do in I failed typing in high school. has definitely affected my more color you have in your back was quite remarkable, so sneakers.” That’s why I’m not very good aesthetic. We always joke that wardrobe, the longer it takes I look at them as inspiration. — Madonna, April 16 on the computer.… everyone’s always like, ‘Oh, you to get dressed.” Or Giorgio Armani, or Ralph Anne [Klein] taught me the it’s downtown New York!’ and — Rooney Mara, Feb. 16 or Karl. As my hair gets whiter, “ Yo u know, as you get older, Experience. It counts. BUSINESS & FASHION TOGETHER IS NEVER TOO

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the year in fashion talking points

you really want to go back to “She is like a kept woman. She apparently not.” so much white cotton shirting clothes. My head would be that idea of happy — happy, has a strong personality. She — Artist Christopher [buttoned] up to the neck? And too restricted if I only thought productive.” has lunch and dinner with me Makos, showing with the Andy why do I not see sex? And why about making clothes.” — Betsey Johnson, after her on the table, with her own food. Warhol retrospective, Sept. 11 do I not see fun in that world? — Rei Kawakubo, Nov. 19 company filed for bankruptcy She doesn’t touch my food. She And why do I not see movement protection, April 27 doesn’t want to eat on the floor. “Like all I want to do is create in that world? And why do I “I’ve always done a kind of She sleeps under a pillow, and things and wear funny clothes not see the female body in that skinny silhouette, because “I was 40 before I learned that she even knows how to use an and go to parties and smoke world? I think it’s interesting I am skinny; I don’t have to ‘No’ was a complete sentence.” iPad. She has two personal my rich friends’ weed. That’s to bring part [of minimalism] worry about covering up fat — Kathy Ireland, May 7 maids, for both night and day. really all I want to do. I want to into the world of Dior, but I also bits!” She is beyond spoiled.” change the lives of my fans and want to make it very sensual — Mick Jagger, about his “Fashion has a lot of Virgos…. — Karl Lagerfeld, about his the only way to do that is by and sexual and very free. tour costumes, Nov. 26 To really obsess about a cat, Choupette, June 6 being myself.” Liberated is probably the most millimeter on a shoe, it helps — Lady Gaga, Sept. 14 important message.” “America is not the America our to be a Virgo.” “It’s really stupid to be mad — Raf Simons, Oct. 1 parents fought for and promised — Tom Ford, May 10 at someone who died, but “Women have different us. The issue in front of us as somehow I have managed it.” plumbing.” “The most important thing is citizens, as businesses, as “I love Madonna. She is the — Meryl Streep, about Nora — Barbra Streisand, on to know what you’re good at. In leaders, is to understand we only woman I have asked to Ephron, July 10 research inequity for men’s vs. any creative field, if it already cannot embrace the status quo.” marry me. She refused, of women’s heart disease, exists, nobody needs it.” —Starbucks ceo Howard course.” “When you go in and you show Sept. 21 — Calvin Klein, Oct. 18 Schultz, Nov. 30 — Jean Paul Gaultier, May 31 your clothing, you think that they’re going to buy the whole “I’m here because I think we “I’m sitting in a car on the “When you are editor in chief “It’s always peculiar when I collection. And when they don’t, need to be more serene and Upper East Side, with my phone of an extremely successful speak of myself in the third you’re like, ‘What do you mean? less hysterical.” plugged into a cigarette lighter. magazine, you don’t need an person.” It all goes together….But I think — Prada’s Patrizio Bertelli, Meanwhile, I’m getting e-mails ambassadorship for four years. — Giorgio Armani, May 31 that’s kind of a life thing — calming analysts about the from Paris and Los Angeles, Ambassadors were great in the Fur_WWD_adv_v4_op.pdf 1 12年11月28日 下午5:19 ‘What, you don’t want all of me?’” state of the luxury market, where it’s business as usual.” 18th century. Today, it’s going “I’d like to dress the Queen. — Katie Holmes, on her fashion Sept. 25 — Julianne Moore, to the opening of a cafeteria.” She can handle anything. venture, Holmes & Yang, Sept. 6 interviewed in the wake of — Oscar de la Renta, on Maybe in black with a little “Why does it look so related Hurricane Sandy, Nov. 2 speculation that Anna Wintour leather, a little rock ’n’ roll.” “I always thought you had to to what it was in the Nineties? might be named a U.S. — Donatella Versace, June 1 be dead to show at the Met, but That’s my question. Why is it “My intention is not to make Ambassador, Dec. 5

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