C10 ◆ SUNDAY, JUNE 18, 2017 TRAVEL BRISTOL HERALD COURIER ◆ HeraldCourier.com DOOR COUNTY, WISCONSIN

PHOTOS BY ANN N. YUNGMEYER/FOR THE BRISTOL HERALD COURIER Jackson Harbor, Washington Island, harbor is also the ferry launching point for Rock Island, Wisconsin’s most unique state park. Island life & old world charm

BY ANN N. YUNGMEYER is kettle boiled with potatoes over a FOR THE BRISTOL HERALD COURIER raging open flame; a feast is served, isconsin, the “Dairy State,” topped off with cherry pie. Offered is known for rich farmland several days a week, two popular W and timbered landscapes. in the Midwest fish boils are The Old Post Office in But along its northern Lake Michigan Ephraim and Rowleys Bay Resort, shores, the rocky cliffs, blue water and complete with storytelling around the sandy beaches may come as a surprise fiery cauldron. to those who haven’t yet discovered » Goats grazing on the grass roof Door County — a 70-mile long penin- at Al Johnson’s Swedish Restaurant sula that juts between the lake and the and Butik hark back to using sod for Bay of Green Bay. insulation. The family business, run by The peninsula and several neighbor- second generation Lars Johnson and ing islands, some accessible by ferry or siblings, is famous in Door County — private boat, are steeped in maritime for the goats and for sumptuous Swed- history. With quaint waterfront villages ish pancakes, lingonberry and local and a proud heritage, Door County is a tart cherry jams. It’s newly expanded destination for outdoor recreation and Stabbur Biergarten features Swedish cultural attractions. ciders and Wisconsin brews. French explorers gave the peninsula » From meatballs and pastries to its name, calling the treacherous waters woolens and clogs, Scandinavian off the tip La Porte des Morts, or Death’s specialties abound throughout Door Door, where shipwrecks were frequent County. The Danish Mill on Washing- before lighthouses were built in the ton Island features baked goods from 1800s. Goats on the roof make Al Johnson’s The Island Stavkirke, an Evangelical Lutheran old-world recipes, and Gunnerson’s Admittedly apprehensive, I was set Swedish Restaurant a Door County Church built in the 1990s, was modeled after the Kaupstadur offers Scandinavian gifts. to cross Death’s Door in a kayak with favorite. Borgund, Norway, church, circa 1150. Den Norske Grenda depicts a Norwe- the outfitter Door County Adventure gian village, and Red Cup serves up Center. Our destination was the unin- specialty drinks in a café/boutique habited Plum Island, where the original featuring Nordic woolens and fiber Porte des Morts lighthouse guided ships arts. between the mainland and Wisconsin’s » The Island Stavkirke, an Evan- largest island, Washington Island. gelical Lutheran Church built in the A wildlife refuge, Plum Island was 1990s, was modeled after the Borgund, recently opened to visitors, but choppy Norway, church, circa 1150. Stave and waters on the day of my early June visit wood beam construction, joinery and led us to choose a calmer paddle along dragonhead carvings recall the build- the coast. Nevertheless, we were outfit- ing techniques of a Viking ship, bring- ted in wet suits and tightly skirted into ing a touch of ancient Norse tradition our kayak seats as we launched from to Washington Island. Rowleys Bay Resort and headed toward The focus in Door County is on the Mink River estuary. I was relieved nature and simple pleasures, and that our outfitter had redirected our ad- The climactic “boil over” at Rowleys Bay Resort authentic fish boil. conversation is as likely to include sto- venture to protected waters, a pristine ries of a magnificent sunset as about wetlands area popular for birding, fish- the world with all white, smooth-edge addition to the Viking Hall Boathouse hooking a record fish. Multi-genera- ing and paddling. limestone rocks. Another favorite stop and stone cottages built by the previous tional and family businesses are the is the French-inspired Fragrant Isle Lav- owner, the island is home to Wisconsin’s norm; fast food and chain hotels are Exploring the islands ender Farm & Shop, one of the largest oldest lighthouse, dating from 1836. Visi- strikingly absent. Wi-Fi is spotty and lavender farms in the Midwest. tors can take the wooded 1.5-mile trail to no one apologizes for it. Yet, Door Settled by immigrants from Iceland Island history is portrayed in the small tour the Pottawatomie lighthouse, cared County continues to draw visitors who in 1870, Washington Island is situated Jacobsen Museum with artifacts from the for by volunteer docents. Rock Island enjoy leisure activities in a place un- about five miles from Door Peninsula Potawatomi Native American inhabit- makes a nice day trip for a picnic, walk- changed by time. and is accessible by ferry. ants, and a maritime museum at Jackson ing and enjoying the natural white sand Ann Yungmeyer is a freelance writer. Comprising 36 square miles, the Harbor depicts the former fishing village beaches. island is a year-round community, of- life with nautical relics and shipwreck If you go fering simple accommodations from exhibits. Scandinavian influence » Green Bay is the closest airport, about a B&Bs to rental cottages. Several eclectic Jackson Harbor shores are excellent one-hour drive to Door County. You’ll need restaurants feature local produce and for kayaking, and we enjoyed a scenic From Native American inhabitants to a car to explore the harbor towns and vil- lake fish. One can join the infamous bit- paddle with Bread and Water Kayaks, European immigrants of the 19th cen- lages, each with enchanting names such ters club at Nelsen’s, a historic landmark spotting white pelican, heron, turtles tury, Door County has a rich heritage. as Bailey’s Harbor, Egg Harbor, Fish Creek, since 1899, or try the legendary “fried and shallow water fish. The harbor is also Belgian and Scandinavian settlers came Ephraim and Sister’s Bay. Take the passen- lawyers” (Burbot fish) at KK Fiske. the ferry launching point for Rock Island, to make their living as lumberjacks and ger or car ferry to Washington Island and Washington Island’s Cherry Train of- Wisconsin’s most unique state park. fishermen, and many traditions remain the Karfi Ferry to Rock Island State Park. fers a narrated island tour with stops at Rock Island was privately owned before for visitors to discover. signature attractions including School- it became a state park with hiking trails, » Authentic Fish Boil, a 100-year old » Online: www.doorcounty.com. house Beach — one of five beaches in camping and ferry access (seasonal). In tradition in which fresh caught whitefish

Enjoying nature’s hot stone massage at Schoolhouse Beach, Washington Island, Wisconsin.