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With the Mission to Menelik, 1897 With the mission to Menelik, 1897 http://www.aluka.org/action/showMetadata?doi=10.5555/AL.CH.DOCUMENT.sip100060 Use of the Aluka digital library is subject to Aluka’s Terms and Conditions, available at http://www.aluka.org/page/about/termsConditions.jsp. By using Aluka, you agree that you have read and will abide by the Terms and Conditions. Among other things, the Terms and Conditions provide that the content in the Aluka digital library is only for personal, non-commercial use by authorized users of Aluka in connection with research, scholarship, and education. The content in the Aluka digital library is subject to copyright, with the exception of certain governmental works and very old materials that may be in the public domain under applicable law. Permission must be sought from Aluka and/or the applicable copyright holder in connection with any duplication or distribution of these materials where required by applicable law. Aluka is a not-for-profit initiative dedicated to creating and preserving a digital archive of materials about and from the developing world. For more information about Aluka, please see http://www.aluka.org With the mission to Menelik, 1897 Author/Creator Gleichen, Edward Date 1898 Resource type Books Language English Subject Coverage (spatial) Horn of Africa, Ethiopia Source Smithsonian Institution Libraries, DT377 .G4X 1898/916.3 G556w Description Contents. Introductory. I: Arrival at Zeila and Organisation of Caravan. II: Zeila to Biya Kaboba. III: Biya Kaboba to Gildessa. IV: Gildessa to Harrar. V: Harrar. VI: Harrar to Burka. VII: A Day on the March Burka to Laga Hardim. VIII: Laga Hardim to Addis Abbaba. IX: Receptions and Ceremonials at the Capital. X: Presentation of gifts the Ethiopian Royal Family. XI: Life at Addis Abbaba market trade, etc. XII: Life in Camp Railways telegraphs food luncheon with Menelik. XIII: The Army. XIV: The festival at St. Raguel's. XV: Manners Customs Character. XVI: Descent language education literature religion justice. XVII: Personal gossip curios music final reception departure. XVIII: Akaki to Laga Hardim. XIX: Laga Hardim to Harrar. XX: Harrar back to Zeila. Epilogue. Format extent 409 pages (length/size) http://www.aluka.org/action/showMetadata?doi=10.5555/AL.CH.DOCUMENT.sip100060 http://www.aluka.org 0 -1, 0 -1, WITH THE MISSION TO MENELIK ,,WITH THE MISSION TO MENELIK 1897 BY COUNT GLEICHEN O. CAPTAIN, GRENADIER GUARDS AUTHOR OF "WITH THE CAMEL CORPS UP THE NILE," ETC. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY THE AUTHOR AND FROM PHOTOGRAPHS' EDWARD ARNOLD a~moisoea, folo .f1 bft Office 37 BEDFORD STRAET LONDON 1898 PREFACE 4 THE following pages contain the simple tale of the journey of the Mission to Addis Abbaba and back, made up from my own recollections and impressions de voyage. In the few places where I have drifted into remarks which might seem to come within the domain of politics, these are made entirely on my own responsibility, and are not in any way to be taken as an expression of official views. My best thanks are due to those members of the Mission who have allowed me to make use of their diaries or photographs. For my own sketches I crave the indulgence of my readers. I desire also to heartily acknowledge the courtesy of the proprietors of the Graphic in permitting me to reproduce numerous pictures (drawn from my original rough sketches) which appeared in their Journal. G. 5th February 1898. CONTENTS CHAP. PAGE INTRODUCTORY I I. ARRIVAL AT ZEILA AND ORGANISATION OF CARAVAN 5 II. ZEILA TO BIYA K~iBOBA .. 13 III BIYA KABOBA TO GILDESSA 24 IV.GILDESSATOHARRiR 36 V. HARRAR ' ".48 VI. HARRAR TO BURKA 67 VII. A DAY ON THE MARCH-BURKA TO LAGA HARDIM 88 VIII. LAGA HARDIM TO ADDIS ABBABA 103 IX. RECEPTIONS AND CEREMONIALS AT THE CAPITAL 121 X. PRESENTATION OF GIFTS-THE ETHIOPIAN ROYAL FAMILY 143 XI. LIFE AT ADDIS ABBABA-MARKET-TRADE, ETC. I56 XII. LIFE IN CAMP - RAILWAYS - TELEGRAPHS - FOOD LUNCHEON WITH MENELIK 172 XIII. THE ARMY I88 XIV. THE FESTIVAL AT ST. RAGUEL'S. 209 XV. MANNERS-CUSTOMS-CHARACTER 216 XVI. DESCENT - LANGUAGE - EDUCATION - LITERATURE RELIGION-JUSTICE 227 viii CONTENTS CHAP. PAGE XVII. PERSONAL Gossip- CURIOS -Music -FINAL RECEPTION- DEPARTURE 245 XVIII. AKAKI TO LAGA HARDIM . 263 XIX. LAGA HARDIM TO HARRAR 280 XX.HARRARBACKTOZEILA 297 EPILOGUE 312 APPENDICES A. A GLIMPSE OF ABYSSINIAN HISTORY 317 B. COMPOSITION OF THE CARAVAN 329 C. ITINERARY OF THE ROAD FROM ZEILA TO ADDIS ABBABA 332 D. DETAILS OF TRANSPORT EMPLOYED AND HINTS THEREON 342 E. WEIGHTS, MEASURES, AND PRICES IN SHOA 351 F. SOME LATITUDES AND LONGITUDES 356 G. TEXT OF THE TREATY WITH MENELIK 357 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE THE MISSION AT BALAWA (I)' Frontisiece NEAR ARUWEINA (2) 21 RECEPTION AT GILDESSA (2) 31 RECEPTION BY MAKUNNEN (2) 43 FROM OUR CAMP AT HARRAR (3). 49 MARKET-PLACE AND GATE, HARRAR (3) 55 RETURNING FROM DINNER WITH RAS MAKUNNEN (4) Tofacefi. 6o THE TRAGEDY OF THE DHOOLIES (2) . 63, 64 WORABILI (1). 73 NATIVES BRINGING FOOD AT WORABILI (4) Tofacefp. 74 SOMALI POLICE (2) 77 ON THE MARCH (7) * Tofacef. 82 C. E. B. DOES A HUNDRED YARDS RECORD (2). 91 VIEW FROM CAMP AT KUNNI (I) 97 A TERRIBLE CATASTROPHE (2) 105 THE HAWASH (6) Tofacefi. 1o OUR COMPOUND (2) .122 THE ESCORT ARRIVES (5) 124 1 For explanation of reference numbers, see note at end of List of Illustrations, p. xi. ix LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS THE KING'S DRUMS (2) RECEPTION BY MENELIK (4) ST. GEORGE'S CHURCH (3) * ETHIOPIC ART (2) IN THE MATTER OF THE BULL (2) QUEEN TAITU (8) MENELIK (2) . RAS MANGASHA TEKKEM (2) ADDIS ABBABA-VIEW OF THE PALACE (6) TYPES IN THE MARKET (5). HUT AT ADDIS ABBABA (5). A SCION OF NOBILITY (I) A GENERAL (2) ABYSSINIAN OFFICERS (2) THE FESTIVAL AT ST. RAGUEL'S RAS MIKHAEL'S CAMP (5) SALUTATIONS (2) A LADY OF HIGH DEGREE (2) COIFFURES (2) PATENT FROM MENELIK A MASHER (2) . DEPARTURE FROM ADDIS ABBABA (2). NEAR CHAFFE DUNSA (5) TADECHAMALCA (3) COTTONWOOD TREES IN KUNNI FOREST (5) AMBASHYP AND FAMILY (5) GPL DABBAL, WITH NATIVE SHANTIES (2) PAGE 127 Tofacet. 130 133 135 138-141 Tofacep. 146 152 155 Toface p. 158 166 172 179 189 201 To facep. 212 217 221 222 224 231 242 259 265 271 284 * ,291 l 35 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xi NOTE (I) PHOTOGRAPH BY PINCHING BEY. (2) ORIGINAL SKETCH BY THE AUTHOR. (3) PHOTOGRAPH BY LORD E. CECIL. (4) FROM SKETCH BY THE AUTHOI (reproduced in the Grahhic). (5) PHOTOGRAPH BY CAPTAIN SWAYNE. (6) BY A. TWIDLE-FROM PHOTOGRAPHS. (7) BY THE AUTHOR AND A. TWIDLE. (8) -PHOTOGRAPH FROM M. VANDERHEYM'S "VINGT MOIS EN ABYSSINIE" (Hachette &- Co). MAPS MAP OF ABYSSINIA . At end ADDIS ABBABA AND ENVIRONS WITH THE MISSION TO MENELIK INTRODUCTORY IT is a long time since England has had any diplomatic dealings with Abyssinia. Leaving out of the question Sir Gerald Portal's Mission in 1887 to King John, which was sent for the specific purpose of tryinag to make peace, between His Majesty and the Italians, and had little reference to the relations existing, or supposed to exist, between Abyssinia and ourselves, the most recent attempt at rapfprochement between the two countries dates from Sir William Hewett's Mission in 1884. And this Mission was also sent for'a specific purpose,-that of asking King John's assistance in the evacuation of the garrisons of the Eastern Sudan. Previous to this, our only political dealings in the last fifty years with the country had resulted in the war of 1867-68, which upset the Brigand-King Theodore, and indirectly placed King John on the throne. I WITH THE MISSION TO MENELIK The result of this war instilled into Abyssinia a wholesome fear of the British military power. On our side, having spent an immense sum of money with an extremely inadequate return for it,-for the country which we had conquered, Northern Abyssinia, was commercially valueless, and not worth annexing, -we were content to drop the matter altogether. Times, however, have altered. So far as Northern Abyssinia is concerned, we might almost still be occupying our ci-devant position as benevolent and passive spectators. But a new Power, of which we knew and recked little, has arisen in the South. Abyssinia, as understood in England, has always been that northern part of the country which was traversed by our Expedition of 1867-68, and over which Theodore and John in succession held sway; i.e. the provinces of Tigr6 and Amhara, and perhaps Gondar and Wollo Galla as well. As to the country which lay to the south of these provinces we knew little, for Shoa had been visited by few Englishmen, and was as yet of no political importance. Only ten years ago, at the time of Portal's Mission, although it was known that Menelik, King of Shoa, possessed a large army, and that it was doubtful whether he would throw in his lot with King John against the Italians, or vice versd, he and his subjects were treated by the world at large as a quantild negligeable. But in the meantime, whilst European attention was concentrated on the operations, peaceful and otherwise, of the Italians and Abyssinians in Tigr6 INTRODUCTORY and the northern part of the country, the individual genius of Menelik was hard at work consolidating his so'uthern kingdom, increasing his forces, and preparing for the coup-de-main which, at the death of John at the hands of the Dervishes in the battle of Galabat (March 1889), seated him firmly on the throne of Abyssinia.
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