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Winter 2014 FRIENDS No Winter 2014 FRIENDS No. 29 of the Non-Catholic Cemetery in Rome N E W S L E T T E R November commemorations in the sunshine Photo: N. Stanley-Price Photo: N. Stanley-Price Photo: N. Stanley-Price On the anniversary of Gramsci's death, 2014 Poster for Le Pietre di Gramsci We were blessed with warm, sunny weather on All Souls’ Day for our On the day before, All Saints’ Day, there were showings in the Gar- part in Roma Capitale’s programme honouring “Places of Memory”. den Room (see Newsletter 26) of Paolo Brogi and David Riondino’s Four young saxophonists from the Santa Cecilia music conservatory in new film about Antonio Gramsci "Le pietre di Gramsci". The two Rome performed in the Parte Antica, with the now-cleaned Pyramid as days attracted hundreds of people to the Cemetery, many of them an impressive backdrop. They played pieces by Beethoven, Satie and for the first time. Numerous other visitors, of course, were there to Vivaldi. There followed poetry readings by the actor Roberto Herlitzka visit their family graves in commemoration. Rarely has the Ceme- that took place around the grave of Gianni Borgna (1947-2014; Zona tery been so full of flowers, whether those brought by families for 1.0.40). Borgna was the Comune di Roma’s Assessore for Culture for their graves or those that have flourished in our grounds thanks to 13 years under mayors Francesco Rutelli and Walter Veltroni. As one the unusual weather last summer (few very hot spells and more rain who loved the Cemetery, he had organised similar events while in than usual). However…. office; so we are delighted to see them resume this year. Ups and downs in the Garden .....the rains also encouraged mosquitoes to breed and the pest affect- Another pest that changed the look of the garden was the red palm ing our box hedges returned, despite being treated last year. The box- weevil (see Newsletter 10). The two graceful palms in front of the tree Pyralid moth (Cydalima perspectalis) is native to Eastern Asia but chapel that had to be felled were drawn some 70 years ago by since 2007 has become a scourge of box species in Europe. Box Carlo Dottarelli (1897-1959) (see p. 2). A number of his fine hedges are traditional in Italian cemeteries and they line many of our sketches of Roman buildings are in the Museo di Roma. paths. Fortunately our efforts to defeat the pest are showing signs of success. continues on page 2 FRIENDS OF THE NON-CATHOLIC CEMETERY IN ROME NEWSLETTER WINTER 2014 No. 29 PAGE 2 continued from page 1 One of the cypress trees at the grave of August Goethe is another casualty. Probably planted soon after his burial in 1830, it died suddenly last summer and had to be re- moved (at considerable cost to the Cemetery). As usual, we needed to secure permits from Rome’s Environmental Protection Department and from the national Soprinten- denza per i Beni Architet- tonici e Paesaggistici before removing a tree. With the help of the Friends and the gardeners from Il Trattore, Photo: Turismo Roma Carlo Dottarelli, The Cemetery chapel we aim to keep the garden looking at its best. Photo: N. Stanley-Price Photo: N. Stanley-Price Renovation around the graves of Keats and Severn In September we improved the surroundings of John Keats’s grave. It is the most visited grave in the Cemetery and the area in front of it had become eroded and unsightly. At our request the architects Roberto Einaudi and Fabiana Zeli designed a new high kerb to de- limit the area of the two graves (project implemented by the firm TECRES s.r.l.). During the excavation work Franco Milito, a tree specialist, ensured that the roots of the nearby pines were not af- fected. This was a joint project with the Keats-Shelley Museum which shared the costs with us. A tribute to Keats Photo: N. Stanley-Price One of Keats’s fans who recently visited us was Ruth Workman, a teacher of litera- ture. She carries on her shoulders her own tribute to the poet. To misquote Keats, a tattoo of beauty is a joy for ever. Photo: N. Stanley-Price FRIENDS OF THE NON-CATHOLIC CEMETERY IN ROME NEWSLETTER WINTER 2014 No. 29 PAGE 3 FOCUS ON THE PYRAMID OF CAIUS CESTIUS The pyramid struck by lightning…… On several early photographs of the extensive damage in Rome. One of the lightning flashes struck the Cemetery, the pyramid appears to summit of the pyramid, causing some pieces to fall. Elsewhere, have no tip. The reason is that it had roofs were damaged, trees uprooted (notably in the Villa been recently restored; the white Borghese) and people injured. In the Vatican almost all the panes colour of the restored tip often did of glass in Raphael’s Loggia were smashed. not show up in the grey photograph. But some painters emphasized it: for W.B. Scott, Shelley’s grave in instance, William Bell Scott in his the new Protestant Cemetery at well-known oil (1873) of Shelley’s Rome, 1873 (detail) grave (see photo). There had been previous restorations of the tip, e.g. in the 1740s. But this one was the first in the age of photography. So, in principle, if we knew when it was done, we could date pho- tographs to before or after the restoration. Fortunately, we do know. Charles Hemans was an English antiquar- ian who settled in Rome to study Roman archaeology and became a popular guide for visitors. In his book Historic and Monumental Rome (1874), he wrote: “In November, 1861, the apex of the mau- soleum was struck by a thunderbolt, and knocked to the base with such a crash and stunning shock that a gardener, working in the adjacent cemetery, was thrown flat on his face. It has been restored in travertine, the light-grey colour of which is so different from the weather-stained marble that the contrast looks harsh, but will be Gioacchino Altobelli, The Pyramid of Caius Cestius, 1860s subdued, no doubt, by Time’s reconciling touches.” Consequently we can date Altobelli’s classic view (see photo) to In fact, according to the Cronaca di Roma of 2 November 1861, it not earlier than November 1861. The same test can apply to other was on 29 October that a storm with a violent whirlwind caused 19th C photos (or paintings) that show the pyramid. …..and (almost) struck by bombs in 1944…. It was the Allies’ bombing of March 1944 that created the breach in the Aurelian Wall between the Pyramid and the Porta San Paolo that is now a busy road (see Newsletter 28 and also my book about the Cemetery). But there have been other claims: that it dates from September 1943, when the advancing German forces fought the partisans at Porta San Paolo; or that it was made deliberately to allow trams to pass through the wall. So which version is correct? Several photographs show trams passing through an arch in the wall at this point. The one reproduced below shows tram tracks diverging at the Porta San Paolo, with the left-hand one heading for the arch. When was this photo taken? At its top left corner the fine Libera/De Renzi post office (1933-35) in Via Marmorata is not yet under construction. (On YouTube you can watch the visit of Mussolini to inaugurate it on 28 October 1935.) But the stretch Destruction of Aurelian wall, Presse-Hoffmann photo, 1944 The pyramid and Porta San Paolo from the air, c.1932 Notes attached to the 1944 photo continues on page 4 FRIENDS OF THE NON-CATHOLIC CEMETERY IN ROME NEWSLETTER WINTER 2014 No. 29 PAGE 4 continued from page 3 of the Aurelian Wall and made a breach in the wall. “One bomb destroyed both tram that was demolished tracks…[in the piazza], another the passage through the wall in 1888 has been re- between Porta San Paolo and the pyramid, and others fell on the built (see Newsletter Non-Catholic Cemetery” (report dated 6 March 1944 and signed 15). A plaque on the by the Questore of Rome, P. Caruso). A Hoffmann-Presse photo wall dates its recon- that came recently onto the art market in Germany confirms this. struction to 1931-32. Two typewritten notes in German attached to the back (see pho- So the photo was tos, p.3) refer to the Aurelian Wall ‘destroyed in an Anglo- taken around 1932. American attack on 3.3.44’ and ask that the photo not be pub- In fact, pedestrians lished! This may be its first appearance in print. and trams – origi- These bombs caused what today would be called ‘collateral dam- nally horse-drawn age’ during raids that were aimed at hitting the rail system, ‘omnibuses’ – had power plants and German military stockpiles in the Ostiense been passing through district. The damage there was extensive, with numerous civilian the arch in the wall casualties. Only by chance did this bomb fall between the two for years. ancient monuments and not as a direct hit on one of them. But, It was the Allies’ as this photo and the one in Newsletter 28 show, pedestrians bombs, and not the continued to follow their usual route through the wall even after Photo: N. Stanley-Price German assault, that it had been reduced to rubble. The pyramid after cleaning, 2014 destroyed the arch …..and now it looks white again. Thanks to funding from a Japanese businessman, Yuzo Yagi, the pyra- to continue during the project.
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