FRIDAY-SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008

Studios in the sun

Rock festivals for grown-ups Istanbul’s new design stars 10-12 | Cover story Travel 7 | Design

Contents Istanbul’s new look t 8-9 | Sports 3 | Fashion Studios in the sun Touring the Riviera’s artist ateliers The rise of ‘floods’ The shoe Olympics Putting style into proportion A swimming legend

4 | Music 13 | Top Picks A grown-up’s guide Events in Linz, Berlin and London

to rock festivals t 14 | Taste 5 | Art A bunk bed for $4K a month Collecting: Rising stars shine in 19 | Film London auctions Summer schlock

6 | Food & Drink Morgenstern on ‘Hancock’ Sloe and refreshing 20 | Time Off Above, painter Hans Hartung’s studio in Antibes. On cover, Le Corbusier’s camping Wine Notes: Tips on tasting huts next to his home in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin. (© Fondation Hartung Bergman; © SABAM Belgium 2008, Photo: Olivier Martin-Gambier) Our arts and culture calendar

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The love market Washington style Hot wheels Elizabeth Blackshire Editor Modernity is changing The Finicky Traveler finds Track the Tour de France Craig Winneker Deputy editor rural Vietnam’s annual both flair and noise at the new and read daily dispatches Fahire Kurt Art director Kathleen Van Den Broeck Assistant art director matchmaking gatherings. Mandarin Oriental hotel. from the course. Matthew Kaminski Taste page editor WSJ.com/Asia WSJ.com/Travel WSJ.com/Sports Questions or comments? Write to [email protected]. Please include your full name and address.

/ Edited by Mike Shenk 57 Company with frank ads 8 Crying out loud? 60 “Have a good 95 Catch participant, THE JOURNAL CROSSWORD 61 Mother of the Titans 9 Roadside eateries, time!” perhaps 64 The Empress of Australia, familiarly 61 Econ. stat 96 Pet for Queen Across 22 Starbucks staple of sadness comes e.g. found Elizabeth II ___ me”: Longfellow 10 Break-in indicator 62 Atmospheric 1 Beat horses 23 Covered with 44 1989 Madonna in 1915, for one beginning 97 Young ___ (kids) pond scum, 30 “The Golden album 11 Bob Dole’s home 66 Bit of makeup 63 Fold female 99 Very long time 5 Battery perhaps Compass” heroine 48 Narrow margin of 12 Time of legend designation 67 Characteristic of 65 French tire 100 Scout shirt feature 24 TV series with a 31 Wise guy victory an area 13 Jazz cornetist Adderley 8 Unsettled 101 Assume star chimp 37 Dollar rival 50 Window cleaner’s 72 Person glued to CNN 14 Remove the dirt from? 68 Apt to snap back? 102 Perfume 14 Rosiness 26 Vital element 41 Trompe l’___ goof 75 Derby drinks 15 Goose Bay 69 Diner owner of TV 105 Activity for 1-Down 19 Calls before a 28 Workplaces with 42 Poet/illustrator 51 Not so hot 77 Officiate setting 70 Wall St. event 109 Gives the boot court openings, for Silverstein 54 Ziegfeld Follies 78 RMN’s successor 16 Chief Ouray, for one 71 Chicago hrs. short? costume designer 21 Reaction to une 43 Pet Shop Boys 80 Scott of “Charles in Charge” 17 Penn in NYC 73 Leaves rudely 110 Rumsfeld’s belle femme 29 “...a feeling and Eurythmics, 55 Panhandle predecessor 81 Loads 18 Billy Joel’s “Tell ___ About It” 74 Creator of Perry 111 Jack 82 Marks of mirth 20 Schubert’s Symphony and Della 116 Cereal box no. One Mo. Time/ by Patrick Blindauer & Tony Orbach 85 Thumbs-up response No. 8 76 ___ Pensacola 117 “Fat chance!” 1234 567 89101112131415161718 87 Hand holder? ___ Minor (mil. center) 90 Bikini burst 25 Rules maven 79 Money-related: Abbr. 118 “Don’t bet ___!” 19 20 21 22 91 Flight feature 27 Tyne with a Tony 83 Prepare for a long trip, 119 Pension verb say 120 Baïonnette, e.g. 23 24 25 95 Home to Tishreen Park 32 Sitcom character who got 98 Domino’s offering married on 10/28/74 84 Extreme 121 Dynamite 26 27 28 29 103 Med school subj. 33 Hamilton’s place 86 Second sight 122 Suffering 104 Unwelcome work 34 When la lune is out 87 Hand, in Hidalgo 123 “The Crying Game” 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 star 106 Masterwork 35 Firm up 88 Apple variety 107 Like Vassar since 1969 36 “Airport ’79” setting 124 Cable Internet 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 89 Snitches alternative 108 “Raising Children 37 Gore and Hirt 92 Dye family 44 45 46 47 48 49 in a Difficult Time” author 125 “Evil Woman” 38 Energy 93 Verb suffix band 112 Refreshers of a sort 39 “South Park” sibling 50 51 52 53 54 113 Galoot 94 “Far out!” 126 Some NFL players 40 Catch of the day, perhaps 114 One in a pen 55 56 57 58 59 60 45 “What ___ you saying?” 115 Exploding star 46 And more, for short Last week’s solution 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 121 FDR broadcast C I NDER TERENCE COMBOS 127 Mayfair resident 47 Do the books? 72 73 74 75 76 49 Hidden OR I OLE ETON I AN AR I ANA 128 Vigilant BONUSADTRADERS METR I C 52 Nanny’s aid 77 78 79 80 81 129 Ace place? SNAG DARED CAUSALTECH 130 Summer movie specialty 53 Tipple T INA METEORS DES 82 83 84 85 86 131 Designer Bill 56 Edam relative SQU I NT UP I NOES 132 TV’s Greene and Michaels 57 Sturdy furniture material SAUSAGEBRUSH KOS HASH 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 133 Course accessory 58 Dis I DES R I NSEOFF DONHO LIE CHRISTMASCAROUSAL 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 134 Kin of -kin 59 Cryptozoology subject LEGALAID ELL ORTEGA 103 104 105 106 107 Down WSJ.com MADN E S S SOMA L I A ASSENT OTT ALLATSEA 108 109 110 111 112 1 Org. that included the New York Cosmos Crossword online ST I NGOPUSAERAT I ON TAP TENDS LEONTYNE GATE 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 2 Beginning drawing class For an interactive version of The Wall APSE LOY GRANDPR I USAX 3 Seles rival DRAW INA LOSTIT 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 4 Wise guy Street Journal Crossword, OAK EYEL I DS NELL WSJ.com subscribers 128 129 130 5 Like horses in the CLUBMEDUSA ABOI L SPAM homestretch can go to HORROR SAY I TA I NTSOUSA 131 132 133 134 6Pest WSJ.com/WeekendJournal END I VE TANNERS O I LMAN 7 Queens neighborhood RESTED SCENERY PREPPY

W2 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL v Fashion

A short story: ‘Floods’ rise Styles fit for all figures By Ray A. Smith FTER NOTICING other young By Elva Ramirez men doing it, 30-year-old Vic- OME OF THIS year’s fashion Ator Holguin recently started Strends—like high-waisted baring his ankles. When he wears pants—look hard to wear for jeans, he rolls them up, and he gets women who aren’t long and lean. his trousers hemmed short. The New But Jose Solis, the designer of Bill York-based real-estate broker ad- Blass New York, looks for ways mits that he sometimes gets that women with all kinds of fig- “strange looks,” but he ignores them. ures—whether his friends or cus- “I like it,” he says. “It feels lighter, a tomers—can wear current styles. lot more fashionable and fun.” Unlike the Bill Blass collection Changing hemlines have long helmed by Peter Som, the lower- been a hallmark of women’s fashion. priced Bill Blass New York, But this summer, it is men’s hems owned by Angelo, Gordon & Co., that are rising. Brooks Brothers has is sold entirely through trunk raised trouser hems about a centi- shows. The direct-sales business meter in its top-of-the-line Golden model offers Mr. Solis more inter- Fleece suits and is leaning toward a action with clients than the typi- shorter pant length across its more cal designer. Julie Johnson moderately priced collection. J. This season, one ubiquitous Crew has been featuring models in look is high-waisted pants. In de- Often, getting the look right is rolled-up, ankle-baring chinos. Tra- signing his version, Mr. Solis dou- all about body proportions. Short ditional haberdasher Paul Stuart is bled the fabric on the waist to women may shy away from wide- producing suit trousers that touch make it sturdy enough to act like legged pants. But these women the top of the shoe, rather than a corset. The hips are cut slim can wear the look, as long as they breaking slightly over the shoe. and the legs are cut wide to elon- don’t have a particularly short The wide adoption of the look re- gate the leg. “If you can’t find torso, Mr. Solis says. flects a new era in menswear. As the high-waisted pants that you like, Arms and shoulders are a com- number of menswear lines and de- another way to achieve the look mon problem area in the summer, signers grows and younger men pay is get a wide belt that sits on your when many dresses come in more attention to style, men’s fash- waist,” Mr. Solis adds. sleeveless or halter styles. A scarf ion trends are changing more fre- Full skirts—sometimes remi- or shawl is one option. Mr. Solis quently. In recent years, for in- niscent of the ’50s—are in fash- has also created a spring dress stance, menswear brands such as ion this summer as well. A flatter- with straps of gathered silk fabric Michael Bastian, Band of Outsiders ing way to make this trend work, that expands for more coverage. and Spurr have emphasized slimmer- Clockwise from left: a Costume Mr. Solis says, is “to keep [the When wearing a sleeveless fitting clothes and helped such items National look in Milan; cropped skirt] fitted around the high hip jacket, Mr. Solis suggests layering as flat-front pants and skinny ties be- trousers from Thom Browne; ankle area, then it [flares] out from a long-sleeve T-shirt underneath. come significant new men’s styles. being shown on The Sartorialist blog. there,” he says. “It’s a very slim- “It gives you a casual air but still “Guys are the peacocks again,” ming effect.” covers the arms,” he says. says Helen Job, director of content at fashion-consulting service shirt. Michael Williams, a mens- WGSN. “There seems to be a feeling wear publicist based in New York, that men are getting a little more ex- says higher pants also show off perimental and that things are one’s shoes and unique details on speeding up from the time you see the underside of rolled-up pants. things on the runways to the time Conservative dressers should be you see guys wearing the trends on forewarned. The look wouldn’t go the street.” over well in more staid professions Style experts trace men’s rising came around, and throughout 2006 such as law and accounting, says hems back to 2004, when menswear and 2007, more designers, ranging Lloyd Boston, author of style advice Claus Riedel’s legendaRy design fRom1958. designer Thom Browne’s signature from DSquared to Marc Jacobs, be- books including “Make Over Your a fish Bowl? look of shrunken suit jacket and gan showing shorter pants in their Man.” In such offices, the highest cropped, ankle-baring trousers runway shows. dress pants should go is a slight made its retail debut at Bergdorf Fashion-forward American men, break over the shoe, Mr. Boston Goodman and then caused a stir a as well as trendy guys in Tokyo and says. Guys dressing for work in year later, when he started doing Scandinavia, were among the first more-creative fields can go higher, presentations during New York fash- to jump on the high-water-pant look but only slightly. And the look ion week. The look was derided at as early as 2005, says Ms. Job. Over works best with casual trousers. first. But other designers eventually the past year, the trend spread to With dressier pants, the look be- Paul Stuart and Brooks Brothers, comes risky. “The more formal the where Mr. Browne designs a line. fabric, the more it looks like a mis- This summer, it’s gone somewhat take,” Mr. Boston says. You start to mainstream, with men of all ages go, ‘Did his dry cleaner make a mis- trying it. take or did he outgrow them?’ ” Mr. Browne, the designer cred- Even a flash of ankle is too much ited with starting it all, admits that for some men. Jeff Amato, a 40-year- most men shouldn’t wear pants as old geology professor at New Mex- short as he’s shown them on run- ico State University, shortened ways. The very short pants were most of his pants earlier this year af- meant to make a point, he says. ter seeing a picture of himself with “Sometimes you see guys with their fabric bunched up at the bottom of trousers and you wonder who their his pants. Though his pants are not sommelieRs tailor is…they’re way too long,” he high enough to bare his ankles when BuRgundy says. “I tried to play with that and he’s standing, the higher hems “take do the total opposite.” The perfect getting used to,” he says. gRand CRu (37 oz) pant length, Mr. Browne adds, hits Some men may want to see if the the top of one’s shoe, with no break, trend has legs before getting pants or crease across the lower pant leg. hemmed. An interim step: rolling The last time so-called floods for them up. “When you roll them up, men were in style in the U.S. was the you can unroll them if you change Decanter Magazine: “The Finest burgundy glass of all 1950s (with upturned tight jeans) your mind or if the trend goes out of time, suitable for both young and old burgundies”. and 1960s (with preppy pants rolled style,” says Tyler Thoreson, execu- the wine aDvocate, roBert ParKer Jr.: “The finest up on the beach). The ’60s also saw tive editor of men’s fashion Web site glasses for both technical and hedonistic purposes are those skinnier suits, with narrow-leg trou- men.style.com. “You can’t do that sers that were shorter in length. with cropped pants.” made by Riedel. The effect of these glasses on fine wine is Todd Snyder, J. Crew’s head of profound. I cannot emphasize enough what a difference they men’s design, says some of its looks make”. tiMe Magazine: “The Riedel family has never were inspired by images of James WSJ.com stamped its name on a single bottle of wine. But over the past Dean, Paul Newman and John F. Short cuts 50 years, this Austrian clan of master glassmakers has done Kennedy from the ’50s and ’60s. Photos: Getty Images, The Sartorialist, Paul Stuart See a slideshow of ‘floods’ more to enhance the oenophile’s pleasure than almost any Fans of the flood point out that through the years, at www.rieDel.coM The new hemlines are inspired in part it’s practical in warm weather, like winemaking dynasty”. WSJ.com/Fashion by Marlon Brando’s 1950s look. rolling up sleeves on a long-sleeved

WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 W3 v Music A grown-up’s guide to summer rock festivals

By Gabriele Steinhauser hibited festival-goers. Music fans Werchter, Belgium who have grown tired of leaking HE FIRST THING that came tents and camping mats can rent out of the backpack was a big podpads, small wooden houses pow- Tplastic sheet, followed by two ered by solar panels on their roofs, blankets to cushion the hard or yurts, complete with double ground. Then Jos Verstraten, 39 beds, their own little patio, flowers years old, sat down and pulled off and chocolates on the pillow—at a his boots—their soles still caked price of up to £745 for four nights. with mud from the past three days— Mr. Benn’s target group—30- and and revealed a pair of bright red 40-year-olds with families and full- socks. His friend Anne Poortman, time jobs—“is a little more discern- 35, spread sunscreen over her arms ing” than the average festival-goer. and shoulders, while Huib Valken- “They don’t want to eat just fish and berg, 39, changed from a T-shirt chips, and if they do, they want into a tank top to take advantage of top-of-the-range fish and chips,” he the blazing sun. says. “And they’re willing to pay for This small group from Utrecht, that, quite honestly.” Food at Lati- together with their friends Stan tude is mainly organic, fair-trade Dykzeul, 41, and Ilze Stappenbelt, and locally sourced, including 37,wasn’t taking a break from a sum- freshly made smoothies and veggie mer hike. Instead they were getting burgers. ready to watch current hot acts The It was a similar kind of family- Kooks, The Raconteurs and the Kai- friendly environment that first at- ser Chiefs at Rock Werchter, one of tracted Tanja Raab, 37,and her part- Europe’s biggest music festivals, ner Tom Osander, 41, to Electric Pic- which stretches over four days and nic, another boutique festival where attracts about 70,000 daily visitors. parents can drop off their kids at Perhaps the most surprising as- baby yoga while enjoying a Thai pect of the group’s tidy little set-up massage or tarot reading. At the age was that it didn’t stick out from the of three, their son Ben is already a crowd. Around them, on a large field Photos: Gabriele Steinhauser seasoned festival-goer and Ms. about 30 kilometers east of Brus- Glastonbury festivals in the U.K. Above, soaking up sunshine and music Raab has worked out a system to sels, hundreds of other music fans “They don’t want to rough it in quite at last weekend’s Rock Werchter keep track of him among the other in their 30s, 40s and even 50s were the same way.” festival (from left): Jos Verstraten, 35,000 people at the outdoor event. among the assembled masses, enjoy- Many of these huge annual Anne Poortman, Stan Dykzeul, Ilze She writes her mobile phone num- ing this year’s festival lineup in simi- events are now offering more com- Stappenbelt and Huib Valkenberg; left, ber on his arm and, if he spends time larly comfortable fashion. fortable sleeping arrangements, a festival alternative to fries and beer. with his parents’ friends, they get a Summer rock music festivals, from already set-up tents to luxuri- token hair-scrunchy so they know long the preserve of teens and twen- ous yurts, as well as a healthier and they are in charge of watching him. tysomethings, are increasingly be- more sophisticated food selection ture such major international rock Yet, even at festivals that don’t coming familiar territory for a gen- and entertainment programs for acts as Franz Ferdinand, Sigur Rós yet offer such amenities—ones where trees and fences still serve as eration that still remembers the hits young children and even babies. and Death Cab for Cutie. The event’s public toilets and yelling teenagers of the 1970s and ’80s even as it Rock Werchter’s upscale eating op- 25,000 tickets are already sold out. still haunt the camping grounds at keeps up with current stars. Con- tions this year included, for the first Latitude is more than just a mu- night—older music fans have found cert promoters are starting to cater time, an oyster bar that also sold sic festival. “I wanted it to reflect ways to get comfortable. Since Mr. to the needs of this older crowd of steamed mussels and glasses of the contents of a Sunday broad- Verstraten and his friends had set festival-goers, many of whom are chilled white wine and cava. Some sheet newspaper,” says Mr. Benn. It up their tents at a campsite 20 kilo- looking for something more than festivals, like Electric Picnic in 1972 and he was hooked. Seventeen has a theater stage, literary and com- meters away from the Werchter fes- mosh pits, fast food and porta-pot- Stradbally, Ireland, don’t sell tickets years later, his company Mean Fid- edy arenas and an entertainment tival to avoid nocturnal nuisance, ties—and who can afford multiday to 13- to 17-year-olds, in an effort to dler, now Festival Republic, took area for children. This year, the kids’ one of them stayed sober every day tickets costing between Œ150 and create a more grown-up atmo- over Reading and since then Mr. arena will employ a staff of more to drive them back at night. Wer- Œ250. sphere. Benn, now 52 and a father of two, than 500, expected to keep around chter’s organizers also provided has spent his summers traveling 4,000 children busy with activities “They still want to experience It’s a big change from the mud- free earplugs for people who may from festival to festival. the buzz of the festival, they still sliding mayhem that festivals used like wildlife explorations and pup- have found Slayer a bit too loud. want to have the excitement of the to be famous for. When Mr. Benn Three years ago, he had a revela- pet shows starting at 8 in the morn- At the festival’s own campsite, festival, but they don’t want to hitchhiked from Yorkshire to Read- tion. “I felt that there was some- ing. only a few hundred meters or so sleep in a two-person tent any- ing to attend his first festival, he thing missing in the market for peo- Families can sleep in a separate from the music, Anna Ryk, 58, her more,” says Melvin Benn, managing was 16. With no tent, little money ple like me,” he says. The result was family camping area, guarded from two daughters, ages 30 and 26, and director of Festival Republic, which and a lot of beer, he saw Status Quo Latitude, a four-day festival in Suf- the loud noise and other potentially her younger daughter’s boyfriend, promotes the Leeds, Reading and and Genesis. That was in August folk, England, that this year will fea- disruptive activities of more unin- 30, had set up their two tents, oblivi- ous to partying teenagers and crushed beer cans. Their bigger Long live rock tent, complete with two sleeping cabins, a small kitchen area and its The older generation of festival-goers comes in a few easy-to-spot shapes and sizes. Here, a handy field guide: own clock and pale-green lamp- shade, measured 35 square meters. The Drinking Buddy The Designated Driver “The tent gets bigger every year,” a.k.a. Dad said Ms. Ryk, who has been taking For one weekend he and his mates get to her daughters to the festival for the pretend they didn’t leave their 20s in the As close to the stage as he can past 13 years. The loud music and ’90s and that hangovers can still be cured get, he is visibly enjoying this yelling emanating from many of her with a pint of Stella for breakfast. They bonding moment with his neighbors’ tents doesn’t bother her. buy their beer in rounds, balancing teenage sons. As Richard Ashcroft Instead, she enjoys her mornings of plastic cups while wearing T-shirts with from The Verve struts up and people-watching and days and eve- slogans like “Drink sensibly—don’t spill.” down the stage, he pulls out nings spent discovering new musi- cians—and rediscovering old ones. homemade cheese sandwiches. On Friday, just as the sun was set- ting over the festival grounds, Neil Young, that night’s headliner, pulled The Mountaineer out his guitar and struck the first With his pocketed shorts and hiking chords of his 1972 hit “Old Man.” As The Rocker boots, he looks like he is about to tackle the familiar melody drifted through He’s the guy in a khaki tank top, his the Pyrenees rather than a grassy field the crowd, a man who appeared not ponytail getting thinner and grayer with encircled by beer bars and frites stands. much younger than the 62-year-old singer, his gray hair cropped closely every year. The front row is still his regular He stands at the back of the crowd, to his skull, put his arm around the eyes fixed on the screens next to the spot and a robust belly guards him from woman next to him. The couple the pushing crowds. No weather can deter stage. When the sky looks dark, he slowly swayed back and forth, while him and as beads of rain run down his pulls out his Gore-Tex windbreaker and the audience sang along with Mr. tattooed shoulders, he makes friends throws a pitiful look at the teenagers Young: “Old man take a look at my with the bouncers. in plastic garbage-bag ponchos. life, I’m a lot like you.” Nearly four Al Jabbaro decades after its release, the song had taken on a new meaning.

W4 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL At big London auctions, new stars in the making ENCHMARK contemporary fied its presence at the sales—and art sales in London last week not just with Banksy, the British Bended the first half of this graffiti star. Other up-and-comers year’s auction season on a buoyant included the Brooklyn-based collec- note as works performed well tive of Faile, whose “Shanghai 18” across the board. (2006), a graffiti acrylic and screen- As expected, trophy pieces led print on canvas with street images, sales. Francis Bacon’s typically dis- sold for £103,250 at Phillips de Pury Podpads torted “Three Studies for Self-Por- (estimate: £40,000-£60,000). And then there was British ce- ramist Grayson Perry (one of the Festivals for fans Collecting few potters to make it into the art of a certain age world’s big leagues). A set of two of MARGARET STUDER his vases covered with images re- Latitude flecting his unhappy childhood and July 17-20, Suffolk, England trait” (1975) fetched £17.3 million at transvestism was sold to the happy How much: Family camping Christie’s and a small-sized 1967 young lady sitting beside me at Phil- ticket £130 per adult painting of his suicidal lover George lips de Pury for an artist’s record at Who: Death Cab for Cutie, Dyer sold for £13.76 million at Sothe- auction of £58,850 (estimate: Franz Ferdinand, Blondie by’s. Jeff Koons’s glitzy, monumen- £20,000-£30,000). Choose your own podpad tal-scale, purply-pink steel balloon (pictured above), yurt or lux- twisted into the shape of a flower ‘Shanghai 18’ (2006) by Faile, which ury tent at this festival that sold for £12.92 million (a world sold for £103,250 at Phillips de Pury. Phillips de Pury has literary and comedy are- record at Christie’s for the Ameri- nas and arts-and-craft work- can master of kitsch). Lucian shops for kids as well as more Freud’s 1980 painting of a fleshy fe- than 100 bands on two stages. male nude reclining on an old couch www.latitudefestival.co.uk brought the second highest price ever for the artist at auction, selling T HE BEST PLACE Summercase for £11.8 million at Christie’s. July 18-19, Barcelona/Madrid But these prestigious evening How much: Weekend ticket sales aren’t just about the really big TO SPEND TIME IS Œ120 names. It’s also fun to track the rise Who: The Verve, Kaiser of lesser-known artists, whose Chiefs, Kings of Leon works aren’t as prominently fea- WHERE IT STANDS STILL. Entry is reserved for tured at these elite events. over-18-year-olds at these Among more recent stars mak- twin festivals in Barcelona and ing their mark last week was South Madrid, where 56 acts play Africa’s figurative painter Marlene one day in each city. Easy to Dumas, who draws on such themes reach from the city centers, so as motherhood, childhood and there are lots of hotel options death. Her “The Visitor” (1995) sold if you don’t want to camp out. at Sotheby’s for £3.18 million, the www.summercase.com highest price ever paid for a living female artist at auction. In this large- Secret Garden Party scale work, five girls pose with their July 24-27, Cambridgeshire, backs to viewers in a claustrophobic England room looking expectantly at an How much: Four-day ticket empty, threatening door. From an £125 art history standpoint, the work is Who: Grace Jones, Sons & important because of the way the Daughters, Glasvegas girls’ pose echoes Degas’s dancers. Variety trumps big names But the painting also has a contem- at this small festival where po- porary feel, as what appear to be etry slams, theater groups and teenage girls enter a world far from cooking sessions keep parents their understanding. Viewers of the and kids entertained. Podpads, painting are put in the uncomfort- teepees and yurts offer com- able position of being voyeurs. fortable accommodation after British sculptor Antony Gormley the more than 150 acts have reached a new high lin the same sale left the stage. when a life-size maquette of his www.secretgardenparty. sculpture “Angel of the North,” a ma- com jestic steel sculpture of an angel lo- cated at Gateshead in the U.K., sold Fuji Rock Festival for a record £2.28 million compared July 25-27, Naeba Ski Resort, with a presale estimate of Japan £600,000-£800,000. How much: Three-day ticket It’s even more exciting when a to- 39,800 yen (about Œ236) tally new artist is featured at the Who: My Bloody Valentine, prestigious London evening sales. Primal Scream, Travis Last week it was Swedish artist Combine a trip to Japan Karin Mamma Andersson, whose with a weekend at this clean “Heimat Land” (Homeland) from and well-organized festival in 2004 sold for £517,250—well above the Japanese mountains that an estimate of £120,000-£180,000. features more than 70 bands. She’s already well known in Scandi- www.smash-uk.com navia but a newcomer to interna- tional auctions; her success at Electric Picnic Christie’s is likely to bring her more Aug. 29-31, Stradbally, Ireland attention. Ms. Andersson (born How much: Family camping 1962) paints dreamy landscapes ticket for 2 adults and as many based in the reality of Nordic When life feels perfect. as four children Œ480 beauty. Who: The Sex Pistols, Franz Asian artists continued their re- Ferdinand, Sigur Rós markable run of success at the auc- Another boutique festival tions. At Christie’s, Yan Pei-Ming’s Summer with Four Seasons Packages. With our special summer packages, there’s with 76 live acts, saunas and a “Pape” (2004), a thickly painted im- healing area offering 18 differ- age of a seated and thoughtful Cath- no better time to vacation with us. For more information contact your travel consultant, ent therapies, from Thai mas- olic pope, reminiscent of Bacon’s sages to tarot reading. iconic Pope series, sold for £1.07 mil- visit www.fourseasons.com/summer08 or in the U.K. call (00 800) 6488-6488. www.electricpicnic.ie lion against an estimate of —Gabriele Steinhauser £400,000-£600,000. Urban art, a new sector, also justi- ©2008 Four Seasons Hotels Ltd.

WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 W5 v Food & Drink A summertime cooler, with a known name

ORETTA LYNN’S 2004 disc, and Quick.” More recently, in “Jit- hilarity soon inspired the addition “Van Lear Rose,” was a re- terbug Perfume,” Tom Robbins Sloe Gin Fizz of Southern Comfort to the mix, Lmarkably modern-sounding lists a litany of drinks that in- creating the Sloe Comfortable record for the country-music vet- cludes “Two sloe-gin fizzes, two 45 ml sloe gin Screw. Later, Galliano—of Harvey eran, thanks to the production fast gin fizzes; three martinis dry, juice of µ lemon Wallbanger fame—was added to and guitar work of the White no starch.” exploit even more elaborately Stripes’ Jack White. But for all the Tennessee Williams uses the 7 to 15 ml simple (sugar) syrup lewd naming opportunities. The fashionably zitherish keening of old joke in his play “A Lovely Sun- soda water whole bunch were taste-impaired, day for Creve Coeur,” reveling at Combine in a highball glass figuratively and literally. It is an the speedy moves a young man with ice. immutable law that the naughtier How’s Your Drink? could make with a young lady a drink’s name, the worse that ERIC FELTEN when aided by sloe gin and a Sloe Gin No. 7 drink tastes. fancy car: “The gin was slow, Sloe gin might well have disap- maybe, but that man was a fast 45 ml sloe gin peared, slinking off in embarrass- the guitars, the CD’s most popular one, seducing a girl with adjust- 22 ml dry vermouth ment, had the folks at England’s song starts off with a paean to an able seats and a flask of liquor in 1 dash orange curaçao Plymouth Gin distillery not come anachronistic drink. “Well, Port- that Flying Cloud.” to the rescue. Their liqueur is land Oregon and Sloe Gin Fizz,” Sweetishly easy to drink, the 1 dash fresh lemon juice made by steeping honest-to-good- sings the coal miner’s daughter, Sloe Gin Fizz was famous for undo- Shake with ice and strain into ness sloe berries in Plymouth’s “if that ain’t love then tell me ing co-ed inhibitions. Historian a stemmed cocktail glass. dry gin. They have used a sparing what is.” and Kennedy-crony Arthur hand with the sugar, letting the The Sloe Gin Fizz is that Schlesinger Jr., recalling his days cranberry-tartness of the fruit strange drink that few have actu- as a Harvard undergrad in the ular dry gin), so he has Belle in- come through. It makes for a fine ally tasted but whose name al- 1930s, noted that the cocktail was sist with a nudge that the bar- Sloe Gin Fizz, a drink of lemon most everyone has heard. This “supposed to reduce the most ob- tender “make it a real one.” It juice, sloe gin, sugar and soda wa- works for a lyricist because it taps durate female to acquiescence.” takes only a couple of spiked ter, on ice in a highball glass. into a deep reservoir of linguistic But sometimes it worked the Fizzes to get Richard drunk. After Plymouth’s sloe gin is also recognition while remaining other way around. Belle, the com- the bartender learns that the good enough to drink in a rather mysterious. And it doesn’t mercial floozy in Eugene O’Neill’s boy’s father is the editor of the straight-up cocktail. In the 1930s Dylan Cross hurt that the drink’s name also al- play “Ah, Wilderness!” is too town newspaper, he gives Belle there were variations on a drink lows for the employment of a tough a cookie to mess with Sloe the heave-ho, furious that she called a Sloe Gin Cocktail using stock joke that turns on the fact Gin Fizzes—Gin Rickeys are her “told me to hand him dynamite in recommended them as a low-test the spirit as a base and adding that most people hear “slow” poison. “Remember,” she needles that fizz.” When the play was im- way for partygoers to have a this and that. I played around rather than “sloe”—the purplish- a bartender, “a rickey is supposed probably made into a Hollywood drink without ending up too far in with this basic idea until, on the red berry of the blackthorn bush to have gin in it.” But when she musical the name was changed to their cups. Back then, there were seventh try, I hit upon a delicious that gives the liqueur its flavor. aims to move along her transac- “Summer Holiday,” but the Sloe many well-advertised brands of drink of two parts sloe gin to one “Well, sloe gin fizz works mighty tion with underage Richard Miller, Gin Fizzes remained. sloe gin. But by the ’80s the li- part dry vermouth, with one dash fast,” Loretta Lynn sings, “when she plies the boy with Sloe Gin The absence of dynamite in the queur survived only for its role in each of lemon juice and curaçao. you drink it by the pitcher and Fizzes. O’Neill knew that the drink average Sloe Gin Fizz is one rea- sexually suggestive quaffs. Let’s call it a Sloe Gin No. 7. not by the glass.” In Dickens’s Eng- was relatively tame (sloe gin is son it makes such an excellent First there was a Screwdriver And please, no jokes about how land, a glass of sloe gin mixed usually about 50 proof, as op- summertime cooler. In 1956, the made with sloe gin instead of fast it works. with gin was known as a “Slow posed to the 80 or 90 proof of reg- Amy Vanderbilt etiquette column vodka, a Sloe Screw. Such bawdy Email [email protected]. Wine Notes: A how-to guide for hosting wine tastings By Dorothy J. Gaiter water between wines of the same nating. The most talked-about and John Brecher type is less effective than simply wine of the night was the Jean Lau- ow do I conduct a wine tast- pouring out the wine; water might rent, which is a pretty explosive ing for a group? dilute the next taste. wine. Tasters again and again H We are asked this ques- We are often asked about food talked about how tart and aggres- tion all the time. Choosing the at a tasting. We don’t think it’s nec- sive it was, with real body and tre- right wines and the format of the essary, but if you’d like some, keep mendous complexity. We told the tasting are fundamental to its suc- it simple—bread and cheese are al- tasters that it would be great with cess. The first decision to make is ways fine, though we’d vote for food—veal with cream sauce came how much to spend on the wine. cheese that was not very full-fla- to mind. Pretty much everybody en- We prefer to have wines that cost vored. Having water to drink is a joyed the Piper, which hits all the roughly the same. For a big crowd, good idea, since staying hydrated right notes and still, after all these we think three wines are plenty for is important. years and at a reasonable price, a lively tasting; for small groups, If you choose the wines, it’s im- continues to taste just like a cele- we would suggest no more than portant that you really do like all of bration. We were happy to sur- five wines. While some people them equally because, as we’ve prise people with the Fogarty, think it’s fun, especially in a blind found, everyone will ask at some which is mostly sold only at the tasting, to have inexpensive and ex- Philippe Lechien point, “So, what is your favorite?” winery. It was nice to show people pensive wines going head-to-head, find enough subtlety in the differ- bel). And the Fogarty is from Cali- We could honestly say at our tast- that America can produce a spar- we think that’s usually designed as ences to be fascinated. In large tast- fornia but has the class of the real ing that we liked all three, though kler that can go up against any- a kind of “gotcha” that makes wine ings, we prefer to tell people that it thing. The Fogarty is 100% Char- in different ways. We were also body. This was lighter-bodied than into an obnoxious, adolescent par- doesn’t matter which wine you donnay, the Laurent is 100% Pinot asked repeatedly during the tast- the others, with more charm than lor game instead of a pleasant, un- start with. Partly that’s because, if Noir and the Piper is mostly Pinot ing, “So, what should I be looking power, but with a fetching mineral- intimidating adult adventure. In we did them in any specific order, Noir, with some Chardonnay and for?” ity that had tasters coming back any event, if it is not a blind tasting we’d have hundreds of people at Pinot Meunier. Now, really, doesn’t The best answer is simply for more. and the tasters have a sense that one station at a time and partly it’s that sound like fun? which is tastiest. But it is a good When we conduct blind tast- one wine cost far more than the because, by setting an order, tast- It’s a good idea to say a few idea to have an answer for that ings, we ask everyone to vote on others, darn if that expensive one ers might think we were giving a words at the beginning of the question depending on the kind of their favorite. When a tasting isn’t won’t be their favorite every time. subtle hint about the wines and it event so everyone understands the wine you’re serving. In the case of blind, it’s still easy to see the win- While it’s always interesting to could affect their opinions. concept of the tasting and knows our sparklers, we talked about how ner: Look at the empties. When we taste wines blind, and we do this For a recent tasting, we chose how to proceed. We offer everyone the bubbles themselves should be glanced at the bottles and later dis- for our column, the process of cov- three sparkling wines: Piper-Heids- a single glass in a tasting and buck- part of the taste, how there should cussed the tasting with the three ering the wines in bags and keep- ieck from France ($28), Thomas ets so they can pour out any ex- be acidity and maybe some nutti- servers, the winner was clear: the ing the labels hidden can be daunt- Fogarty Blanc de Blancs 2000 from cess. It’s important that whoever ness and certainly some underly- Fogarty. All three were popular. Ev- ing with a large group. California ($32) and Jean Laurent is pouring remember that this is a ing minerals. A good sparkling eryone enjoyed talking about the The wines need to have much in Blanc de Noirs from France ($40). tasting, not happy hour, so the wine should be more than a wine Laurent, and the Piper brought common and yet possess distinc- Throughout the tasting, people pours need to be small (we always with bubbles. Be sure to have a back wonderful memories. But af- tive qualities. Ideally, the wines asked why we chose these three suggest to organizers that they fig- “take-away card” with the names ter people tasted all three, when will be distinctive enough that and here’s our reasoning. We like ure one bottle of each wine per 10 and prices of the wine. they decided to just get another even neophytes who are sure they all three very much. The Piper is a guests, which is usually more than At our event, the response of taste, they lined up for the Fogarty. can’t tell wines apart will have large-production, well-known enough). Some hosts of tasting the tasters—many of whom were It was a surprise—and ultimately opinions (that’s one of the most Champagne. The Laurent is a small- events provide pitchers of water sophisticated wine drinkers and, what makes these tastings so gratifying aspects of tastings), production grower’s Champagne so participants can rinse their in many cases, especially familiar much fun for us. while seasoned wine-lovers will (look for that little “RM” on the la- glasses, but we think rinsing with with California wines—was fasci- Contact us at [email protected].

W6 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL v Design Creating a new look for modern Istanbul

HE YOUNG CENTURY has going a wave of gentrification. What do you like about working been good to Istanbul. Turkey Designers Seyhan there? Thas become a more prosper- Özdemir (left) and ous place, and its largest city has Sefer Çaglar. Their Ms. Özdemir: Galata is the com- turned into an international style Spider lamps are on mercial center of old Istanbul; you capital. the wall behind them. feel it in the buildings and the The city’s changing fortunes are streets, in the ambience. But when embodied in the hip young design we moved there five years ago, duo Seyhan Özdemir and Sefer Çag- there were only local manufactur- lar, who founded their firm, Auto- ers—as product designers, we ban, in 2003 (the invented word wanted to be near production. Back then nobody wanted to live there, nobody wanted to have an office Backstage with there, it was too messy, too crowded. But then many people SEYHAN ÖZDEMIR started coming—artists, designers, AND SEFER ÇAGLAR fashion designers. They came be- cause of the buildings—you have wonderful architecture around you— comes from the Turkish “otoban” and because it’s central. You have re- and the German “autobahn,” both ally good energy there. It’s the real meaning highway). In the past few Istanbul. years, they have become the face of contemporary Turkish design, with Autoban designed the lobby of the Q: You have designed several in- regular appearances in leading inte- Witt Istanbul Suites hotel (above); and teriors for the House Café, which rior-design magazines. below, the Müzedechanga restaurant has locations all over the city. Both Istanbul natives, Ms. Öz- at the Sakip Sabanci Museum. How do you maintain a balance be- demir, 33 years old, an architect, tween consistency and individual- and Mr. Çaglar, 34, who studied inte- ity when designing different ver- rior design, met in the 1990s when spired by them. But we are trying to sions of the same brand? they were students at Istanbul’s Mi- do something more international. Mr. Çaglar: The House Café mar Sinan Fine Arts University. changes its shape but not its identity. They are noted for their furniture Q: You have won attention Wherever it goes, it gets new energy and lighting designs, and for the in- from the design world outside Tur- from the nearby architecture and teriors of some of Istanbul’s hottest key, but you have only worked in- from the people in the neighborhood. restaurants and retailers. An Auto- side the country. Why? Ms. Özdemir: [At all the ban design is marked by sleekness, Ms. Özdemir: We have so much branches] the dishes are the same, solidity and humor. The Bergere to do in Istanbul. The city has so and the furniture is mostly the bed, from 2007, has a wood-and- much energy right now—it’s so same. However for each [location], leather headboard that suggests an busy, so attractive. Many foreigners we try to put in one thing that is dif- armchair. A 2003 wooden rocking are starting to come here, even live ferent and unique. chair—with continuous arms and here, so there are many new restau- legs—has a spaciousness that belies rants and new hotels opening up. We Q: Many great modernist archi- the clean lines of the design. would like to do something abroad, tects sought refuge in Turkey in 7 Ms. Özdemir and Mr. Çaglar have but we don’t have time now. We the 1930s, and designed interest- their studio in the shadow of the Gal- cate more—there is the Internet, Q: For a visitor, Istanbul seems have around 20 people in our office, ing buildings. What has been their ata Tower, the 14th-century land- and many other new things. Unlike to have two predominant decora- and we are working on 20 projects. legacy for Turkish architects? mark just north of the Golden Horn. 10 years ago, you can now buy many tive traditions—the Byzantine Ms. Özdemir: After Nisan [Mi- Built by Genoese traders, the tower international [design] magazines in and the Ottoman. How do these Q: Do the archaic traditions of mar Nisan, the architect of the Blue was for centuries the center of Istan- Istanbul. The world has changed. styles influence contemporary Anatolia inspire your furniture Mosque, who lived 1489-1588], I bul’s enclave of Western diplomats, Turkish interiors? and lighting designs? don’t think there was another really merchants and adventure-seekers. Q: Your name combines the Ger- Ms. Özdemir: Ten or 20 years ago, Ms. Özdemir: No, never. It’s inter- good architect in Turkish history. These days, the Galata Tower is a man and Turkish words for high- Turkish architects and designers esting, though. I like to see those de- Thanks to the [foreign architects] of symbol of the city’s rapid gentrifica- way. Why did you choose it? made references to Ottoman and Byz- signs, and I would like to have them, the 1930s, Turkey’s architects tried tion, and the surrounding area is a Ms. Özdemir: For us, it’s a kind of antine culture in their designs. They but as a designer I don’t want to get to create their own attitude—a blur of old and new, with traditional philosophy. When you are riding on couldn’t do anything new—that’s inspiration from only one thing. I “Turkish” style. artisans from Anatolia rubbing shoul- a highway, everything changes why we didn’t have Turkish design at have many things in my mind; Sefer In the 1950s everything changed, ders with artists and designers in the around you. And you have choices: that time. We are trying to do [some- has as well. especially in Istanbul. Many people district’s narrow, winding streets. You can choose this way or that way, thing] new. Of course, we were born came to live here from Anatolia. A favorite watering hole near Gal- where you are going. For us, [de- here, we are living here, so these old Q: You’re very rooted in the Gal- They were so poor, they just needed ata is the House Café, with an Auto- sign] is all about choice. cultures are on our minds; we are in- ata neighborhood, which is under- to have a place to live. The govern- ban interior of mix-and-match ment couldn’t come up with rules wooden tables and chairs and geo- for architecture, or urban planning; metric lamps. Started in 2002 by everyone ended up doing their own Ms. Özdemir’s sister, the House Café thing. After the 1990s, people here has 10 locations around Istanbul, in Istanbul, including the govern- each designed by Autoban. The firm ment, understood the importance of also did the interior for the recently the city. They knew if we don’t do opened Müzedechanga restaurant anything to keep it, we are going to at the Sakip Sabanci Museum, along lose Istanbul. So they created new the Bosporus north of the city. The guidelines for architecture, for design has a funky 1960s quality, street life. In the last 10 years, the ar- with stained wood, marble and chitectural scene in Istanbul has leather. (See more projects at www. started changing, growing up. autoban212.com.) Mr. Çaglar: Those modern archi- We spoke to Ms. Özdemir and tects who came to Istanbul—like Mr. Çaglar in their new showroom Bruno Taut, who came from Berlin— not far from their Galata studio. were our teachers’ teachers. —J.S. Marcus Q: The megamall has reached Q: Istanbul has changed dra- Istanbul with a vengeance. You matically in the last few years— have designed retail interiors for from the amount of traffic on the some of the city’s largest malls. streets to the amount of dispos- What are the special challenges in able income of residents. How has that kind of environment? this affected what you do? Ms. Özdemir: It is more difficult Ms. Özdemir: Ten years ago, af- to do something in a mall than in the ter we had just finished university, city, because in a city you have many there were many economic and po- things around you. [A mall] is so arti- litical issues, and people weren’t fo- ficial, and yet you have to create a cused on working with designers— real life, a real interior, but you they didn’t understand what it don’t really have anything that you meant to put something interesting can use. There is no context; you in their lives. Now people communi- have to create it. Photos: Ali Bekman

WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 W7 v Sports

The race to win the shoe Olympics Martial art

By Mike Esterl attracts Nike and Nicholas Casey Dick Fosbury NGINEERS HAVE BEEN burn- winning the high jump HANGE COMES SLOWLY ing the midnight oil design- gold medal at the Cfor the age-old Chinese Eing vast infrastructure, secu- 1968 Olympics. martial art of wushu. But this rity and crowd control for year, it’s joining forces with Beijing’s Olympic Games. Not to the swoosh. mention a better table-tennis In an unlikely move for a shoe. Now: The Adidas redesign. U.S. footwear company, Nike In rural Herzogenaurach, Ger- is joining the small Chinese many, six designers at Adidas market of wushu shoemakers. have spent the past several years The modern version of the tinkering with specialized foot- sport, a close cousin of kung wear for badminton, fencing and fu, emphasizes aesthetic and two dozen other sports ahead of athletic performance over ba- the games. Among the challenges: sic fighting (pictured below). Rowers must not sink with their While it isn’t an official Olym- boat, wrestlers shouldn’t be able pic sport, an Olympic-sanc- Then: Dick Fosbury’s shoe. to untie shoelaces and—perhaps tioned tournament will be most important—nobody’s feet held this summer. should sweat too much. Adidas expects to outfit more That was enough for Nike On the other side of the world than 3,000 of the estimated to jump in. The shoes would in leafy Beaverton, Ore., a similar 10,500 athletes. Consumers will be have to survive a host of pun- process has played out at the cam- Photos: Corbis; Nike; Adidas; Getty Images able to try on some of the Olym- ishing moves: rapid accelera- pus of Nike, where buildings are end up selling many archery or invited U.S. high jumper Dick Fos- pic specialty shoes at Adidas tions and braking; 720-de- named for Olympians such as weight-lifting shoes. bury to Herzogenaurach. He had stores, and all of them will be on Steve Prefontaine. The Adidas Each company prides itself on won gold in Mexico City with his sale at Adidas’s online site. Nike archrival has rolled out specialty its history of inventiveness: Adi- revolutionary “Fosbury flop,” turn- says it’s supplying “thousands” of shoes for all 28 official Olympic das founder Adi Dassler began de- ing the straddle technique on its athletes (like Adidas, provided sports this year. That’s up from signing shoes in his family’s laun- head by going over the bar head free). the 11 it designed at the 2004 Ath- dry room after World War I, while and shoulders first. Adidas de- Nike isn’t planning the same ens Games and one-ups Adidas, Nike co-founder Bill Bowerman signed a new shoe with him in broad Olympics shoe campaign, which is supplying 27 specialty forged his initial sole designs in mind. but says many of its shoes will be shoes after steering clear of an his wife’s waffle iron. “They didn’t work. I tossed available on Nike.com, as well as equestrian model. The Games’s official sports- them,” said Mr. Fosbury, now 61 some retailers, later this month. It’s a serious business. Since wear sponsor, Adidas, likes to years old and himself an engineer. The company is already selling its China is the companies’ most im- point to its longer track record, He found the prototype too slip- redesigned basketball and running portant growth market—more having outfitted Olympians in Am- pery and dubbed it the “Cyclops” shoes in China. than a billion pairs of feet— sterdam in 1928 and, later, because it replaced several spikes As for smaller shoe companies, they’re in a neck-and-neck race sprinter Jesse Owens and boxer in the ball of the shoe with a sin- Japan’s Mizuno and Asics, Germa- for dominance. Both want to show- Muhammad Ali, both of the U.S. gle one. Mr. Fosbury says he ap- ny’s Puma and Adidas’s Reebok case their footwear technology But the boldest experiments preciated the effort and still unit are outfitting athletes and gree gymnastic-like spins; during the Olympics and generate don’t always pan out. After the wears only Adidas running shoes: touting Olympic credentials, too, and the use of weapons in- brand buzz—even if they don’t 1968 Games, for example, Adidas “I’m a loyal guy,” he said. from volleyball to track and field. cluding broadswords, staffs and double-edged swords. In a Beijing park, a four-per- son Nike team sought out sep- For Olympian feet tuagenarian Master Wu Bin, who was teaching students, Here are some shoes Adidas and Nike have redesigned for the Olympics. for his help. He agreed, and work eventually shifted to Ni- TABLE TENNIS EQUESTRIAN BOXING BASKETBALL ke’s Beaverton, Ore., campus, where researchers slapped re- Especially important, given the Chinese When Nike decided to create a new shoe At Adidas, a “bird’s nest” synthetic mesh Weight’s a key concern here, too. flective markers onto U.S. love of the sport. Adidas tried for a shoe for horse riders, it realized the boot had wraps around the whole shoe, preventing Nike’s “flywire” replaces bulky support wushu athletes while 16 video light enough to let the player fly hardly changed since the it from becoming waterlogged from material in the upper part of a sneaker cameras recorded data. comfortably through the air but stable Wild West days, says Sean sweat and weighing down the boxer as with high-tech, hard-to-break threads “Reflective markers were enough to provide support on landing, McDowell, Nike’s Olympic the rounds wear on. The 42-year-old Mr. that hold the foot to the shoe much flying,” said Jeff Pisciotta, says Adidas team leader Klaus Tomczak; footwear director. Tomczak, who wears his long hair in a like suspension cables hold up a who studies athlete biome- otherwise, the Achilles tendon is at risk. Equestrians had “learned ponytail and cut his teeth on college modern-day bridge, Mr. McDowell chanics in the Nike lab. Re- Adidas adapted a bottom from sturdy to live with uncomfortable designs for cars and sailboats, has a says. Nike is also using “lunar” foam in searchers from the Univer- models used for high-impact futsal, a boots,” he says. “Typical hot, warning: If it’s this shoe and sees potential for the sity of Beijing and the Univer- version of indoor soccer popular in South heavy leather takes two raining, don’t wear foam in other lines. $110. sity of Shanghai eventually America, and added cushioning and an people and about 20 minutes such a hole-filled pitched in. extremely light top part made from a to get each equestrian boot shoe outside: “You The final shoe (pictured be- synthetic mesh, maximizing ventilation. on.” Nike’s curved zipper peels would risk getting low), to be sold for $80 at $100. open the boot when unzipped, wet feet.” $200. Nike.com, uses sturdy kanga- allowing the foot to easily slide in. $450. roo leather instead of the typi- cal canvas and a lightweight gum rubber for more-precise pivoting during moves. An un- expected problem: painful WRESTLING WEIGHTLIFTING FENCING ROWING/KAYAKING shoelaces, because wushu ath- letes hit their shoes with their The challenge is to create a shoe that’s For decades, the heel of a Fencers tend to tear shoes apart, since Boat makers, when they sell a boat, palms as part of their perform- “almost slippery’’ to an opponent’s weightlifting shoe was supported they must drag their back feet across traditionally provide the shoes, which are ance. Nike created pockets to grapple while providing sufficient grip on by wood. Adidas developed a abrasive flooring during lunges, says Mr. attached to a board with screws so that hide shoelace tips for easier the mat, says Mr. Tomczak. Adidas synthetic material that it said was McDowell. Nike reinforced the shoe with the rower’s feet don’t slide. Adidas’s shoe narrowed the shoe so it fits more like a stronger and lighter than wood— notched wraps to reduce wear and added plate is made of a thermoplastic that slapping. —Nicholas Casey sock. Equally important, the shoe has a then showed it to weightlifters. breathable mesh on the top of the shoe to looks like metal but is lighter. In case the zipper over the laces and a protective “They said, ‘We want wood,’ ” make it lighter and more comfortable boat capsizes, the shoe ($150) has a tape over the zipper. In past contests, says Mr. Tomczak. “It’s purely ($150). Adidas uses a special-coated wide Velcro strap that allows the rower some wrestlers would try to untie their psychological. It gives them leather on the inside heel for extra to eject his feet by pulling with just one own laces or those of rivals if they found confidence.” The new shoe has a protection, replacing a ceramic-coated hand. The kayaking shoe ($45) has themselves in danger of losing. Under big piece of wood in the heel. $200. synthetic fiber that Mr. Tomczak says plenty of holes to let water escape but is wrestling rules, combatants often must “started melting” when fencers dragged still sturdy enough for the kayaker to return to starting positions when a their shoes. Padding protects against walk in. shoelace is untied. $150. skewerings, and laces are secured so that a blade can’t get stuck under them. $200. WSJ.com Target market Watch a video about Nike’s sponsorship of the Chinese national team at WSJ.com/Sports

W8 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL Swimming the distance As the Olympics approach, a 90-year-old medalist reflects on a life spent making a difference in the water

By Kevin Helliker Although some makers of the Wadsworth, Ill. suits, including Speedo, sell their FTER TURNING 90 on a re- products through his catalog, Mr. cent Friday, Adolph Kiefer Kiefer says he is among those who Arose early the next morning think the suits should be outlawed for a swim. That has been his rou- in competition. tine since childhood, since before To illustrate why, he recalls the 1936 race in Berlin that earned breaking a world record in the him an Olympic gold medal. He 400-meter backstroke in Copen- doesn’t plan to stop. hagen in 1935 and then being told “I know I won’t get to 200, but his record was disqualified because gosh darn it, I’m going to try,” Mr. the pool was found to contain a sig- Kiefer said last month after finish- nificant level of salt water, which ing a 35-minute swim inside his ru- boosts buoyancy. ral home. “Just like salt water, this new Of all the swimmers who partici- suit provides artificial buoyancy,” pated in last week’s U.S. Olympic tri- he says. The high-tech suits are ap- als in Omaha, Neb., none is more te- proved for the Summer Games in nacious than Adolph Kiefer. Once a Beijing. medal winner at the trials, Mr. Adolph Kiefer competing “Although the Speedo LZR Racer Kiefer now owns a company that fur- at the Olympic Games in 1936. does help a swimmer maintain a nished the event with stopwatches, streamlined body position through © Topham/The Image Works whistles, pace clocks and other the water, the suit is not buoyant equipment. A new responsibility By 1948, when the Games re- the cutting edge of the swimming in- goods shelves are often bereft of and fully complies with FINA regula- this year: running (on behalf of sumed, Mr. Kiefer was a father of dustry,” says Michael Beach, a scien- aquatic equipment in fall and win- tions,” says Speedo Vice President Speedo) the official retail shop in- two and founder of a fledging swim- tist and associate director for ter. Craig Brommers. FINA is the inter- side the trials arena. Mr. Kiefer’s ming-goods business called Adolph healthy water at the CDC. “He’s 90 “It has never been Adolph’s moti- national governing body for compet- 61-year-old catalog company has Kiefer & Associates. years old, and yet he’s present at ev- vation to dominate the industry or itive swimming. been opening retail stores for less Today, Mr. Kiefer is known ery meeting on this issue.” make a lot of money,” says William U.S. Olympic officials believe Mr. than 10 years. “We’re making throughout the aquatic industry for Kiefer & Associates has never Fischer, a nephew who manages the Kiefer is the nation’s oldest living progress,” he says. his innovations. In an era of cotton thrived financially off its founder’s business. “His goal has always been aquatic gold medalist. To judge To many swimmers today, Kiefer and wool, Mr. Kiefer introduced the inventions. Mr. Kiefer has never en- to make swimming safer and avail- from the early deaths of his parents is just a brand of kickboard. But in first nylon suit, making Kiefer the forced one of his 14 patents, in part able to everyone.” and seven siblings, his high-quality the 1930s and 1940s, the man be- swimsuit of choice in the 1952 Olym- because he believes his improve- Once teamed with baseball slug- longevity is not genetic. Friends and hind the brand was a national celeb- pics. In the 1960s he developed the ments ought to be available to pur- ger Ted Williams to promote public relatives say one explanation is mar- rity, appearing in advertisements first turbulence-resistant lane line, chasers of every brand, and in part swim instruction, Mr. Kiefer contin- ital. for products such as Lifebuoy soap using buoys that absorb rather than because he thrives off the success of ues financing efforts to teach chil- When 88-year-old Joyce Kiefer, a and Gillette razors, and performing bounce back swimmers’ wakes. other brands. dren, particularly minorities, how former water-ballet performer, at swimming exhibitions around the Other innovations have involved wa- The revenue engine of his $20 to swim. isn’t mowing their expansive lawn U.S. ter skis, chlorine treatments, rescue million-a-year company is a catalog Mr. Kiefer has strong opinions or scrubbing down the extra refrig- “Back then, America’s top swim- devices and spine boards. touting “everything but the water about a new generation of swim- erator in their garage, she is accom- mers were better known than At the moment, Mr. Kiefer is since 1947,” from the Telescoping suits featuring polyurethane, which panying him to the offices of Kiefer Michael Phelps is today,” says Bruce working with the U.S. Centers for Rescue Pole & Life Hook ($57.90) to he says boosts buoyancy. These & Associates, where she manages Wigo, chief executive of the Interna- Disease Control on technology to the latest offerings from swimsuit suits, such as Speedo’s LZR, are the accounts-receivable depart- tional Swimming Hall of Fame in combat the spread of chlorine-resis- maker Speedo. worn by many competitive swim- ment. Fort Lauderdale, Fla. Several Olym- tant bacteria that have caused out- The Kiefer catalog is a fixture mers and have drawn controversy, Keeping up with her is a constant pic swimmers of that era—Johnny breaks of illness in public pools. among pool owners and among as some critics say they give an arti- challenge for the competitive Mr. Weissmuller, Buster Crabbe, Esther “Adolph Kiefer is absolutely on swimmers who know that sporting- ficial advantage. Kiefer. The two have been married Williams—became Hollywood so long, 66 years, that their four chil- Jean-Gabriel Domergue La Villa Domergue Cannes stars. dren are grandparents. Nodding at Few of today’s swimmers be- an infant sharing his office at com- yond Michael Phelps will ever ex- pany headquarters one recent day, ceed the aquatic accomplishments Water world Mr. Kiefer says, “That’s our 11th of Mr. Kiefer. As a Chicago high- great-grandchild.” school swimmer, he shattered the Some of Adolph Kiefer's contributions to the aquatic industry A condition called idiopathic pe- world record for the 100-yard back- ripheral neuropathy has stiffened stroke, becoming the first swimmer Mr. Kiefer’s hands and robbed him to finish in under a minute. (Ameri- of the balance needed to walk with- ca’s Ryan Lochte holds the current out assistance. One recent morning,

record at 44.6 seconds.) Kelli Steenrood he used a walker to travel from his For 12 years, Mr. Kiefer domi- bedroom to the natatorium on the nated international races in the Lane-line buoy far side of his house. Crawling into a backstroke as well as the individual This Kiefer WaveEater represents resistance pool wearing baggy medley. In a career that spanned what many swimming experts regard shorts, he told a visitor: “Usually, I Above, Jean-Gabriel Domergue painting a more than 2,000 races, he lost only as Mr. Kiefer’s greatest invention: do this naked.”

portrait of opera singer Lily Pons; left, his twice. One of his world records In the water, his long backward the turbulence-resistant lane line. t home with its formal gardens. stood for 12 years. strokes offer a hint of the power he t “I’ve been honored to be men- Starting block once wielded. But he no longer tioned alongside the greatest back- Mr. Kiefer played a swims like an Olympian. His is the strokers ever,” says Lenny Krayzel- significant role in the routine of a 90-year-old seeking to burg, the just-retired four-time emergence of stylish starting limit the effects of an incurable dis- % 33-4-97-06-44-90 www.cannes.com Olympic gold medalist. “And Adol- blocks, such as this model called ease, and he is succeeding. His chest ph’s name is always one of the first the Kiefer Intrepid. and legs remain muscular, giving to come up.” him the strength to use a walker, to Mr. Kiefer’s only Olympic compe- pull himself out of chairs, to remain tition won him a gold medal at age self-sufficient more than two de- 17, along with a handshake from cades after his neuropathy first Adolf Hitler, who went on to launch struck. the war that canceled the Games of “Anybody else with his level of 1940 and 1944. Mr. Kiefer says he neuropathy would be getting

has never lamented the Olympic pushed around in a wheelchair,” medals he likely lost to the war, be- t says Gail Lucks, a Denver anesthesi- cause military officials in Washing- ologist who is passionately subjec- ton gave him a more-important chal- Spine board tive on this topic. Mr. Kiefer is her fa- Suit lenge: creating and running a pro- t Mr. Kiefer introduced the first ther. gram to teach sailors how to swim. This Kiefer advertisement lightweight rescue board that “We were losing more men to from almost 60 years floated, had a head immobilizer WSJ.com ago shows off a and was X-ray transparent, drowning than to bullets,” says Mr. Going strong Kiefer innovation: allowing scans without removing Kiefer, a Navy officer during World See a video about Adolph Kiefer, at the nylon swimsuit. the patient from the board. War II. “I’m prouder of any lives I WSJ.com/Sports saved than of the gold medal.”

WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 W9 v Travel Studios in the sun: Touringthe Riviera’s artist ateliers

By Lanie Goodman Nall The N.A.L.L. Art Association Vence Eileen Gray Villa E1027 Roquebrune-Cap-Martin Special to The Wall Street Journal Eileen Gray in 1926. Trip planner: where the art is Lower left, her Villa Nice, France E1027. Top left, the LY INTO NICE, rent a car at the dhauterives.com). HEN ARTIST Pierre-Au- designer’s Bibendum airport, and use Nice as a base. Aspiring artists or art teachers with guste Renoir was advised chair, and below, the FMost of the ateliers in this story small groups of students may opt for a to move south to relieve his E1027 table she are within 30 kilometers of Nice, and weekly rental of Matisse’s former arthritis, he bought the Do- designed for the villa. roughly along the E80 motorway. Ex- home, Villa Le Rêve, where the great maine des Colettes in 1907, pect summer crowds in July and Au- master lived in 1943. Run by the Vence an olive grove in the gust, but it’s quieter up in the hills. Sep- Tourist Office, the villa sleeps up to 15 Wheights of Cagnes-sur-Mer near Nice, and tember is the loveliest month to visit. and also has an atelier workspace built a house and studio where he lived and (Œ2,500 per week; % 33-493-58-82-68; National Museum of Ireland Where to stay worked until his death in 1919. “The olive tree, www.villalerevevence.com). what a brute!” Renoir told art collector René The charming Hotel Windsor is an What to do Gimpel. “How those little leaves have made artsy, family-run hotel, located in the me sweat. One gust of wind and the whole tree heart of Nice’s shopping district, and While in Nice, Matisse enthusiasts changes color.” packed with contemporary art. About can have a look (from the outside only) The artist captured the clear air and in- half of the 57 rooms were decorated by at the artist’s former digs in Old Nice tensely luminous colors of the Mediterranean internationally known artists (includ- and Cimiez (pick up a map of the itiner- landscape in such masterpieces as “The Farm ing Ben, Claudio Parmiggiani and Glen ary “In the footsteps of Matisse” at the at Les Collettes, Cagnes” (1908-14) and led an Above, the exterior of Nall’s home and studio; below, Nall with a mosaic created for a Christian Dior show in Paris in 2001; the dining room. Baxter); there’s everything from mini- tourist office, 5 Promenade des Ang- influx of artists into the area. malist to whimsical, but all are comfort- lais). Southern village life was cheaper than able and affordable. A highlight is a The sprawling marble Museum of Paris, and the dry, haze-free weather around small pool in the palm-shaded garden, Modern Art (MAMAC) on the fringe of Nice attracted the Impressionists and others where breakfast is served (Œ120-Œ175; Old Town is the home of contemporary amid the rise of plein air painting at the end of % 33-493-88-59-35; www.hotelwind- European and American works, with the 19th century. Claude Monet said he loved sornice.com). great seasonal shows and an impres- “this fairytale-like air.” Pierre Bonnard said, Another option located near the con- sive permanent collection that in- “in the south of France, everything sparkles temporary galleries is la MOMA, a two- cludes members of the Nice school and and the whole painting vibrates.” Matisse, Pic- room guesthouse run by designer cou- the New Realists, from Arman and asso and Chagall took up residence. ple Valérie Arboireau and Peter Larsen César to Niki de Saint-Phalle and Yves © ClassiCon | www.classicon.com A host of less well-known artists working (Œ90; % 33-660-57-49-59; www.moma- Klein. Check out the works of Raymond in a variety of media also built homes and ate- nice.com). Hains and Ben, both of whom designed liers here—from Le Corbusier to Hans Har- If you prefer staying inland, the rooms at the Windsor. Nice’s avant- tung to Henry Clews. Many have been turned © SABAM Belgium 2008, Photo: Olivier Martin-Gambier pine-shaded hills of twin villages St. garde art school, the Villa Arson, also into museums, or in the case of the artist Nall, % 33-4-93-35-62-87 www.roquebrune-cap-martin.com Paul de Vence and Vence have attracted holds cutting-edge seasonal exhibi- a working studio open to the public. (Visiting artists since the 1920s, including Pic- tions. hours are variable or by appointment, see ac- asso, Braque, Miro and Chagall to De- Explore the Belle-Époque architec- companying travel tips.) rain, Soutine, Signac, Modigliani, Mat- ture in the hilltop neighborhood of Cim- A close-up look at the artists’ homes and isse, Dubuffet and Arman. iez, where you’ll also find the Matisse work spaces, all within an easy drive from Book well in advance for a room at Museum. Matisse and Raoul Dufy are Nice, illuminates how the artists drew inspira- Photos: The N.A.L.L Art Association La Colombe d’Or, the renowned artists’ buried in the nearby cemetery. Just tion from the Côte d’Azur landscape. % 33-4-93-58-13-26 www.nall.org hotel (with 16 rooms, 10 apartments) at down the hill is the Chagall Museum, Two groundbreaking minimalist designers the entrance of St. Paul de Vence, a veri- also well worth a visit. built homes side-by-side about 20 kilometers table museum of original paintings and In the Vence area, the contempo- northeast of Nice, on the peninsula of Roque- sculptures by many of the artists who rary art museums include La Fondation brune-Cap-Martin near Menton. spent time in the area. A highlight, the Maeght (St. Paul de Vence), the Mat- Irish designer Eileen Gray built Villa Hans Hartung Fondation Hartung Bergman Antibes dreamy black-tiled pool flanked by isse Chapelle de la Rosaire (St. Paul de E1027, and next door Swiss-born architect Le Calder mobiles. Fortunately, you don’t Vence) and La Fondation Emile Hugues Corbusier built Le Cabanon, a spartan beach have to be a guest to dine on the lovely (Vence). hut. The site has towering yuccas, lemon and fig-shaded terrace, surrounded by Modern design buffs shouldn’t miss carob trees, pink oleander and a sweeping works of Miro, Braque, Léger and César a visit to the mountain village of Gour- view of the sea. (rooms Œ285-Œ380, dinner about Œ65; don (a 20-minute drive from St. Paul de Gray built Villa E1027 in 1929 at the behest % 33-493-32-80-02; www.la-colombe- Vence) to the Musée des Arts Décora- of her lover, Polish architect Jean Badovici— dor.com). tifs et de la Modernité, housed in a me- the villa’s name was a numerical code version Stylish guesthouses filled with con- dieval stone castle, with an outstand- of theirs. The stark white rectangular house temporary artwork also abound in the ing 1930s furniture collection with rare on stilts was highly experimental, with two area. Best bets: La Maison du Frêne pieces by Eileen Gray, Robert Mallet- ground floors, a red outdoor kitchen and a (Œ140; % 33-6-88-90-49-69; www.la- Stevens, Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann and stairway to the roof. The entrance was maisondufrene.com); La Toile Blanche Pierre Chareau (Château de Gourdon; marked, Entrez Lentement (Enter Slowly); (Œ250; www.toileblanche.com); and La guided visits by appointment; other whimsical phrases were stenciled on Photos: Fondation Hartung Bergman Forge de Hautrives (Œ130; % 33-493-09-68-02; www.chateau- the wall, such as “Laughter Forbidden” and Hans Hartung’s studio, where his work ‘1987-H5’ (1987) hangs; Hartung’s work ‘T1989-R45’ (1989); the artist and his wife, painter Anne-Eva Bergman. % 33-4-93-89-73-34; www.maison- gourdon.com). —Lanie Goodman “Invitation au Voyage.” The rooms were filled with pivoting and folding cabinets, lounge % 33-4-93-33-45-92 www.fondationhartungbergman.fr chairs, brilliant-colored carpets and metal screens and lights, all Gray’s own designs (in- Left, Le Corbusier working. Below, his home Le Cabanon, cluding what would become one of her most and above, the l’Etoile de Mer café on the grounds, with popular pieces, the circular glass-and-chrome Abandoned over the years, the villa was al- sink, livened up by a yellow floor, a green and lometers (past Renoir’s house in Cagnes-sur- a painting and murals by Le Corbusier from 1950. side table, named the E1027 after the villa). most in ruins earlier this decade when the orange ceiling and vivid wall paintings. Mer, where the studio and rose-filled garden Gray studied the light, the wind and the ter- French cultural ministry began a complete res- The hut also has a hidden door that leads are perhaps the best-known on the trail of ate- rain, devised a system of natural ventilation toration. It is scheduled to open to visitors in to the simple Provençal restaurant called lier museums), one reaches another minimal- and sliding shutters, and calculated the path January. Le Corbusier’s murals will remain, l’Etoile de Mer, frescoed by “Corbu,” as he was ist gem in the wooded hills of Antibes. of the solar rays in the living room to create with a masking system for a “before and af- called, which he and his wife treated as their German-born abstract artist Hans Har- effects of shadow and light. She organized the ter” effect. private canteen. “They weren’t fond of cook- tung designed this stark whitewashed villa, space so that the outside landscape was fused Le Corbusier himself remained attached to ing,” says architect Robert Rebutato, the son the atelier and its annexes amid an olive to the villa’s interiors to give a feeling of spa- the spot, and in 1952 he built a tiny seaside of the restaurant’s owners. “They liked my par- grove. The artist, known for abstract works ciousness. cabin just meters away from Villa E1027. This ents’ cuisine so much, they decided to build that balance spontaneous black drawing (of- Le Corbusier, who was a friend and a men- square studio, just 3.66 meters a side (and their beach hut right next door.” ten scratched by olive branches from his tor to the couple, was a frequent guest at Villa 2.26 meters high, the height of an average Just behind Villa E1027 are five Corbusier- grove) and zones of dazzling color, lived here E1027. Gray and Badovici broke up in 1932, man when he raises his arms) is a study in designed camping units, each 2.26 meters a from 1973 until his death in 1989 with his wife, and in 1938, Le Corbusier moved in as Badovi- small-scale simplicity, characteristic of the ar- side. The Rebutato family donated the prop- Norwegian painter Anne-Eva Bergman. Har- ci’s guest, and painted the walls in his own chitect’s rigorous experimentation with a erty to the restoration project. Le Corbusier tung calculated every sharp line of the design, style, with bold primary colors and erotic fig- modular single room. There’s a bed with a died while swimming in the sea here in 1965, from the pool where he swam every morning Photos: © SABAM Belgium 2008 ures. It infuriated Gray, who considered it van- wood sculpted pillow, a pivoting table, two and is buried in the Roquebrune cemetery. to the huge bay windows in the living room % 33-4-93-35-62-87 www.roquebrune-cap-martin.com dalism. cubes that serve as seats, a closet, a desk and a Traveling southwest from Nice about 20 ki- Please turn to page W12

W10 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 W11 v Travel Studios in the sun: Touringthe Riviera’s artist ateliers

By Lanie Goodman Eileen Gray Villa E1027 Roquebrune-Cap-Martin Special to The Wall Street Journal Eileen Gray in 1926. Trip planner: where the art is Lower left, her Villa E1027. Top left, the LY INTO NICE, rent a car at the dhauterives.com). designer’s Bibendum airport, and use Nice as a base. Aspiring artists or art teachers with chair, and below, the FMost of the ateliers in this story small groups of students may opt for a E1027 table she are within 30 kilometers of Nice, and weekly rental of Matisse’s former designed for the villa. roughly along the E80 motorway. Ex- home, Villa Le Rêve, where the great pect summer crowds in July and Au- master lived in 1943. Run by the Vence gust, but it’s quieter up in the hills. Sep- Tourist Office, the villa sleeps up to 15 tember is the loveliest month to visit. and also has an atelier workspace (Œ2,500 per week; % 33-493-58-82-68; National Museum of Ireland Where to stay www.villalerevevence.com). The charming Hotel Windsor is an artsy, family-run hotel, located in the What to do heart of Nice’s shopping district, and While in Nice, Matisse enthusiasts packed with contemporary art. About can have a look (from the outside only) half of the 57 rooms were decorated by at the artist’s former digs in Old Nice internationally known artists (includ- and Cimiez (pick up a map of the itiner- ing Ben, Claudio Parmiggiani and Glen ary “In the footsteps of Matisse” at the Above, the exterior of Nall’s home and studio; below, Nall with a mosaic created for a Christian Dior show in Paris in 2001; the dining room. Baxter); there’s everything from mini- tourist office, 5 Promenade des Ang- malist to whimsical, but all are comfort- lais). able and affordable. A highlight is a The sprawling marble Museum of small pool in the palm-shaded garden, Modern Art (MAMAC) on the fringe of where breakfast is served (Œ120-Œ175; Old Town is the home of contemporary % 33-493-88-59-35; www.hotelwind- European and American works, with sornice.com). great seasonal shows and an impres- Another option located near the con- sive permanent collection that in- temporary galleries is la MOMA, a two- cludes members of the Nice school and room guesthouse run by designer cou- the New Realists, from Arman and ple Valérie Arboireau and Peter Larsen César to Niki de Saint-Phalle and Yves © ClassiCon | www.classicon.com (Œ90; % 33-660-57-49-59; www.moma- Klein. Check out the works of Raymond nice.com). Hains and Ben, both of whom designed If you prefer staying inland, the rooms at the Windsor. Nice’s avant- © SABAM Belgium 2008, Photo: Olivier Martin-Gambier pine-shaded hills of twin villages St. garde art school, the Villa Arson, also % 33-4-93-35-62-87 www.roquebrune-cap-martin.com Paul de Vence and Vence have attracted holds cutting-edge seasonal exhibi- artists since the 1920s, including Pic- tions. asso, Braque, Miro and Chagall to De- Explore the Belle-Époque architec- rain, Soutine, Signac, Modigliani, Mat- ture in the hilltop neighborhood of Cim- isse, Dubuffet and Arman. iez, where you’ll also find the Matisse Book well in advance for a room at Museum. Matisse and Raoul Dufy are Photos: The N.A.L.L Art Association Le Corbusier Le Cabanon Roquebrune-Cap-Martin La Colombe d’Or, the renowned artists’ buried in the nearby cemetery. Just hotel (with 16 rooms, 10 apartments) at down the hill is the Chagall Museum, the entrance of St. Paul de Vence, a veri- also well worth a visit. table museum of original paintings and In the Vence area, the contempo- sculptures by many of the artists who rary art museums include La Fondation spent time in the area. A highlight, the Maeght (St. Paul de Vence), the Mat- Hans Hartung Fondation Hartung Bergman Antibes dreamy black-tiled pool flanked by isse Chapelle de la Rosaire (St. Paul de Calder mobiles. Fortunately, you don’t Vence) and La Fondation Emile Hugues have to be a guest to dine on the lovely (Vence). fig-shaded terrace, surrounded by Modern design buffs shouldn’t miss works of Miro, Braque, Léger and César a visit to the mountain village of Gour- (rooms Œ285-Œ380, dinner about Œ65; don (a 20-minute drive from St. Paul de % 33-493-32-80-02; www.la-colombe- Vence) to the Musée des Arts Décora- dor.com). tifs et de la Modernité, housed in a me- Stylish guesthouses filled with con- dieval stone castle, with an outstand- temporary artwork also abound in the ing 1930s furniture collection with rare area. Best bets: La Maison du Frêne pieces by Eileen Gray, Robert Mallet- (Œ140; % 33-6-88-90-49-69; www.la- Stevens, Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann and maisondufrene.com); La Toile Blanche Pierre Chareau (Château de Gourdon; (Œ250; www.toileblanche.com); and La guided visits by appointment; Photos: Fondation Hartung Bergman Forge de Hautrives (Œ130; % 33-493-09-68-02; www.chateau- % 33-4-93-89-73-34; www.maison- gourdon.com). —Lanie Goodman

0 10 Km Left, Le Corbusier working. Below, his home Le Cabanon, Menton and above, the l’Etoile de Mer café on the grounds, with a painting and murals by Le Corbusier from 1950. Roquebrune-Cap-Martin

Vence E80 Monaco Gourdon Nice

Cagnes-sur-Mer

E80 FRANCE

Mandelieu- Antibes Mediterranean Sea Area of la-Napoule detail Cannes Photos: © SABAM Belgium 2008

% 33-4-93-35-62-87 www.roquebrune-cap-martin.com

W10 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 W11 v Travel Studios in the sun: Touring artist ateliers

Continued from page W10 overlooking the grassy park, measured to Henry Clews Château de La Napoule Mandelieu-la-Napoule match the dimensions of his colossal can- vases. The house and studio were big enough for Hartung to work in very large formats, since he used wide brushes and rollers to scrape the still-wet paint—which would be dif- ficult in a small urban studio. The Hartung-Bergman Foundation opened the villa as a museum in 2006 and offers guided tours of the sprawling property, which houses over 16,000 paintings, engravings and photos. The highlight is Hartung’s paint-splat- tered atelier, with an array of his brushes, sty- luses, spray guns and rollers. Also on display are a permanent collection of Bergman’s abstract paintings—minimalist renditions of trees, boats, glaciers, suns and moons—and a revolving miniexhibition of paintings from Hartung’s vast storeroom. The villa represented Hartung’s desire to keep his paintings assembled in one place; by 1964, he’d stopped selling his canvases in the hopes of someday creating his own founda- tion. “It is true happiness for a painter to be a master of his works,” he wrote. The peaceful secluded property allowed for just that: Photos: Chateau de la Napoule space, privacy and autonomy. “The artist, es- pecially, must remain free from all outer re- Above, Henry Clews’ straints,” Hartung would later say. sculpture studio; This year, more than 250 of Hartung’s far left, the artist works—many more than can be shown at the (in white coat) with villa—are on loan from the foundation for the Count Gauthier-Vignal show “Hans Hartung, Gesture and Method” at in 1933. Left, the La Fondation Maeght in nearby St. Paul de exterior of the castle, Vence, which runs until Nov. 16. rebuilt on Saracen Fifteen kilometers further southwest is ruins. Villa Domergue, hidden away in Cannes’s La Californie neighborhood, minutes from where Picasso once lived (the Picasso house and stu- dio are now owned by his granddaughter, Ma- rina Picasso, and not open to the public). Painter and Art Nouveau poster artist Jean- Gabriel Domergue and his wife, Odette Maudrange, a sculptress, finished building their villa in 1936, transforming a bare hilltop into a Florentine-inspired home with movie- % 33-4-93-49-95-05 www.lnaf.org set atmosphere. They planted towering cypresses and oaks in the terraced gardens that overlook the bay of Cannes, created fountains and waterfalls, laughing gnomes in blocks of pink, grey and and filled the buff-colored stone house and Jean-Gabriel Domergue La Villa Domergue Cannes green porphyry, as well as a life-size bronze landscaped paths with Maudrange’s sleekly Christ-like figure—modeled on himself—in modernist sculptures of animals and human the castle courtyard. torsos in dark stone (over 60 of their joint Clews and his wife are buried in a sculpted works remain there today). They added rare crypt in a remote corner of the palm-shaded collectibles from their world travels—every- formal gardens. The orange groves and laby- thing from Etruscan vases to their own cus- rinths (where Clews’s all-white bulldogs, pea- tom-designed Murano glass chandeliers. cocks and marabous used to wander) are now Though Domergue was initially a land- used as an exhibition space for sculptors-in- scape painter, the artist’s greatest success residence. The terrace restaurant has a and fortune came from fashionable portraits dreamy sea view. of svelte swan-necked young models or danc- For a glimpse into an active studio, head in- ers, often the mistresses of his moneyed Pari- land about 20 kilometers to the N.A.L.L. Foun- sian clientele, who came down to Cannes for dation, located on a nine-acre estate in Vence. the social season. Claiming to be the original Photos: Ville de Cannes Alabama-born painter Nall (born Nall Hollis), inventor of the sexy pin-up model, Domergue Above, Jean-Gabriel Domergue painting a spent six years building his home on the ruins also drew famous ads for the Côte d’Azur— portrait of opera singer Lily Pons; left, his of the oldest house in Vence, built in 1605. It’s stylish sylphs in slinky gowns and oversize home with its formal gardens. a joyous jumble of styles: a frieze of original hats, flanked by towering palms—which were ceramic tiles by Matisse line the entrance, the reproduced as postcards and sold everywhere ancient carved wooden doors are from Jaipur on the Riviera, contributing to the area’s glam- and the stained glass window is from a cathe- orous image. dral in Algiers. Every wall and ceiling is ablaze “Domergue was quite a bon vivant and a no- % 33-4-97-06-44-90 www.cannes.com with Nall’s paintings and drawings: canvases torious womanizer,” says Frédéric Ballester, of “bleeding pansies”—flowers that seep with curator of the Villa Domergue collection. Pollock-like drippings; a sober series of black- Among the nine large canvases that hang in and-white sparrows; a flashy pop painting the former atelier are two nudes of Josephine the sculptor from afar in Cannes, impressed would discover several years later) and (commissioned by Christian Dior) in which gi- Baker, who was a frequent guest at the villa, by his elegant bohemian air and a Napoleon III learned that an old abandoned castle was for ant tubes of lipstick double as the Twin Tow- which was donated to the city of Cannes in goatee. “He should have been born in the Re- sale. They launched into a restoration of the ers. 1979. Today it is often used for parties during naissance,” Domergue wrote. castle and gardens that would last 18 years, su- Nall, 60, considers himself a spiritual de- the Cannes film festival. The Chateau de la Napoule, a turreted sea- pervised by Marie and executed by 12 Floren- scendent of Niçois symbolist Gustav Adolf The artist and his wife are buried in side fairytale castle built on Saracen ruins, tine stonecutters. Above the castle door en- Mossa—a connection he discovered only after sculpted stone tombs—a realistic rendition of was completely rebuilt, stone by stone, and de- trance was marked the inscription “Once moving to the south of France—and is best the couple in a romantic pose, designed by signed by Clews, an expatriate Wall Street upon a Time.” known for his combination of the baroque and Maudrange—in a flower-lined corner of the banker-turned-artist, and his wife, Marie. The A self-trained painter and sculptor who a Dali-esque surrealism. garden, facing the sea. Clewses had moved from New York to war- studied briefly with Rodin, Clews was one of The foundation operates an artists’ resi- Domergue took a keen interest in his eccen- time Paris in 1914, and three years later, when many eccentric expatriates welcomed on the dence for a dozen American students, who are tric neighbor, Henry Clews, who lived down their young son fell dangerously ill during the Riviera in the freewheeling 1920s. The châ- given everything from drawing lessons to ad- the road in Mandelieu-la-Napoule, just west Spanish flu epidemic, the family headed south teau offers guided tours of the castle and clois- vice on how to trim the olive trees in the laven- of Cannes. Domergue, who wrote the introduc- to settle in a warmer climate. They checked ter, replete with Clews’s imaginary kingdom der-scented gardens. “Art should not be sepa- tion to André Maurois’s “The Strange World into the Hotel du Cap in Antibes (the idyllic of bizarre carvings—big-bellied stone de- rate from life,” says Nall. “There must be com- of Henry Clews,” recalls the first time he saw spot that American painter Gerald Murphy mons inspired by Pre-Columbian art and plete harmony between the two.”

W12 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 W9 v Top Picks In Linz, art at the end of the tunnel

Linz n art The show also features more recent More than 20 kilometers of tunnels run work, including “Truth Study Center,” vit- underneath the Austrian city of Linz. rines displaying newspaper clippings on Some were dug during the 19th century, AIDS and other topics, as well as “Paper their constantly cool temperatures per- drops,” close ups of sheets of photo- fect for storing beer. Others, built by graphic paper fallen on the floor in grace- forced labor from German and Austrian ful Modernist arcs, and color experi- concentrationcamps,areagrimreminder ments that appear as snaky tendrils of ofthe city’sNazi past. AdolfHitlerwentto light. These are striking, yet somewhat school in the city and later had plans for empty, and are attached to the walls in making it a center of the arts. During Mr. Tillmans’s customary way, using World War II, the tunnels were used by transparent tape and binder clippings. theweaponsindustryandasair-raidshel- —Helen Chang ters.Now,aftermorethan60yearsofdis- Until Aug. 24 use, they have been re-opened as a % 49-30-397834-11 unique underground art gallery. www.hamburgerbahnhof.de TheOffenesKulturhausOberösterre- n ich’s new contemporary-art exhibition London art “Tiefenrausch,” or rapture of the deep, is Untilthelatescholar Edward Saidde- partofaprogramcelebratingLinz’sselec- nounced the art (and literature) of Brit- tion as European Capital of Culture in ain that depicted the Middle East from 2009. The OK commissioned many of the 17th to the early 20th century, most critics thought the visual responses of the pieces in the show, some of which re- British travelers to the peoples and land- flect the gruesome Nazi-era history of scapesofthese countriesjustof toopoor the tunnels. The exhibition is subtitled a quality to be worth commenting on. “Stream of Forgetfulness.” When Mr. Said argued that these Visitors enter through two huge in- works weren’t the product of observa- dustrial steel doors built into a hillside tion so much as of the malign imagina- near the city’s botanical garden. Heavy tionofImperialistsseeking toportray for- sweatshirts are available to ward off the Otto Saxinger eign civilizations as decadent and back- cool, damp atmosphere. Inside, the tun- Above, ‘Waiting for Sinbad’ (2007-08) by Christoph Draeger, in Linz; right, cocktail wards, heexcitedsome peopleenough to nel system opens up under huge sand- take a second look. Now Tate Britain has stone vaults. The air smells of earth. Wa- dress by Yves Saint Laurent for Christian Dior, in Berlin; below, ‘HMD 1’ (2007) by Wolfgang Tillmans, in Berlin. filled a large space with an amazing ter forms in puddles on the floor. show of these sensuous paintings and The first installation visitors see is watercolors, called “The Lure of the East: “Shining Spectators” (2008), by Aus- and voice a loud protest against injustice cony—and so were his breakdowns, British Orientalist Painting.” trian artist Ursula Witzany. Six crystal and war. —Mariana Schroeder whichled tohis dismissalfromDior afew The advent of steam travel in the chandeliers sparkle in the gloom, their years later. In 1962, he started his own 19th century gave a fillip to artists, who light reflected in puddles on the floor, Until July 31 fashion house, which helped establish could now reach Egypt, Jerusalem and while projectors send white silhouetted % 43-732-784-178 ready-to-wear, as opposed to custom- Constantinople(as itwasthencalled)rel- figures scuttling around the walls. Some www.ok-centrum.at/tiefenrausch made haute couture, as the future stan- atively easily. But the first part of this carry suitcases and wear trench coats. dard by which fashion would judge itself. show starts at home in Britain, with a The scene evokes images of people who Berlin n fashion The Berlin show has several Saint look at traditional portraits of British sit- sought refuge in the tunnels during war- When French fashion designer Yves Laurent creations from the Dior years, ters in Oriental dress, and includes some time air raids. Saint Laurent died in June at the age of many of which were made for the ac- iconic portraits of Lord Byron and Croatian artist Kruno Stipesevic fo- 71, Berlin’s Museum of Decorative Arts tress Olivia de Havilland. Of special note Lawrence of Arabia. Other themes ad- cuses on forgetfulness in his “Alzheimer immediately decided a gesture of some is a lustrous black silk cocktail dress from dressed are the landscape and the city- Phase III” (2008), in which a room and its kind was in order. Within a few days, the Saint Laurent’s first Dior collection, scape,genrescenes,theharem anddepic- tions of the Holy City. There are notable furnishings are covered with Post-it museum used its collection of Saint Lau- marked by a billowing, high-waisted “tra- pictures by Gavin Hamilton, John Freder- notes in orange pink, yellow and green. rent originals to mount a wonderfully re- peze line,” which reversed the narrow- ick Lewis, David Wilkie, some startling “Waiting for Sinbad” (2007/2008) is alized exhibition, “Homage to Yves Saint waisted silhouettepreviously associated oddities by Richard Dadd (who was al- Swiss artist Christoph Draeger’s tribute Laurent.” Installed in a gallery otherwise with Dior. The show also contains high- ready starting to go mad when he to the forgotten thousands of Africans reserved for Renaissance treasures like lights from his ready-to-wear collections painted his “The Flight Out of Egypt” in who have died trying to sail flimsy boats Flemishtapestries and ornate silver gob- of the ’70s, when he brought a luxurious 1849/50), and William Allan’s over-ex- to Europe. It’s a painted wooden boat lets, Saint Laurent’s eclectic creations, version of the peasant look into fashion. cited 1838 “The Slave Market, Constanti- that landed in Tenerife in 2006. Its hull is which freely quote previous eras’ styles In addition to 15 Saint Laurent origi-

Saturia Linke nople.” cracked and broken, a symbol of the and sensibilities, play beautifully off the nals, the show includes a film of the de- The harem pictures are tame by to- metamorphosis between hope and ca- sumptuous setting. signer’s mammoth 2002 runway retro- tastrophe. day’s standards but they, like several of Yves Saint Laurent was at once the spective at the Centre Pompidou, held in theotherroomsinthisshow,raisethepo- War is the subject of several works in most original and the most fragile of honor of his retirement from the fashion the show. Red electronic lettering moves litical questions that Mr. Said lumped to- 20th century designers, a fashion-world house that goes on bearing his name. gether as “Orientalism.” Frank Dillon’s along the wall of an otherwise totally combination of Albert Einstein and Judy —J.S. Marcus dark tunnel in “Ausrottungserleichterun- circa1875 paintingof thefemale quarters Garland. Born in Oran, Algeria, into a Until Aug. 31 of Sheikh al-Sadat, Cairo, for instance, de- gen,” a one-word poem by Austrian artist % prominent French family, he started 49-30-266-2951 picts a tall room with coffered, elabo- Heimrad Bäcker. The word means the fa- working for Christian Dior’s Paris fashion www.smb.spk-berlin.de hard to say exactly what it is. A pointy cilitation of genocide illustrating the ba- rately carved, wood ceilings and paneled house when he was only 17 years old. wedge of flesh-tone juts out from a walls, one blue-tiled; stained glass clere- nality of evil. Afghan artist Lida Abdul Withinafewyears, Diorhad died, and the Berlin n photography stripe of black, identifiable as Mr. uses kite-flying boys and the wreck of a story windows; and a Turkish carpet on 21-year-old Saint Laurent found himself The oldest work in German artist Wolf- Tillmans’s shorts by its Adidas logo. polished floors. A turbaned man standsin Soviet airplane in “In Transit” (2008) to heading up the crème de la crème of gangTillmans’smid-career retrospective Above is a stretch of pink T-shirt, and be- remind usof another, nowalmost forgot- acorner,glancing sidewaysatthehigh,ke- French couture. His first collection in at the Hamburger Bahnhof is a photo of low, a carpet of sand that swallows the lim-covered platform, on which sits one ten, war. Spanish artist Sánchez Castillo 1958 was a sensation—he had to take his knee. “Lacanau (self)” was taken in rest of the artist’s leg. What the photo unveiledwoman holdingastringed instru- usesthe memoryofFrancoinhisinstalla- publicbowsfromthefashion house’sbal- 1986 at age 18, and on first glance, it’s captures, it seems, is the sensation of a ment and another, strikingly pretty, with tion “Up and Down” (2006/2008). Visi- fleeting look downward. a peacock fan. Both look faintly amused, tors need a one-euro coin to raise a But Mr. Tillmans’s perspective is as but bored, whereas the man has sensual, mounted effigy of the late dictator onto calculated as it is spontaneous. His still- fleshy lips and sexy hooded eyes. You its white pedestal. After 20 seconds the life of a breakfast tray, “Wanna party in can’t help but notice the luxuriousness of sculpture disappearsagainintoforgetful- my hotel?” is another case in point. The the setting, and feel a little as though ness. slicedgrapefruitand bowls ofglossycher- you’re privy to someone’s sexual fantasy. Canadian artist Vera Frenkel’s work, ries and raspberries seem good enough The air of exoticism and foreign-ness “Body Missing 1994 & Ongoing,” reminds toeat,exceptthat thelatteris alabelon a exuded by so many of these pictures has us of Hitler’s dream of turning Linz into plastic pot of yogurt. prompted the otherwise sensible cura- an art capital by building a giant museum Both photos are part of the show’s tor, Nicholas Tromans, into commission- tohouse looted masterpieces. Herinstal- replica of Mr. Tillmans’s 2000 Turner ing some disapproving commentators lation uses light boxes and monitors to Prize-winning room-size installation. En- (who mostly share Mr. Said’s views) to document the disappearance of many tering the space feels like stepping into contribute easily ignored wall captions works in the chaos of the closing days of one of Mr. Tillmans’s staged tableaus alongside some of the pictures. World War II. yourself. Any subject is fair game. There Thanks to this show, we can now see The OK museum and the directors of areabstractclose ups of armpits and bel- that at least some of these luscious pic- Linz 2009 now are determined to rein- lies and portraits of personal friends pos- tures are good enough to rebut Mr. Said’s vent a city formerly devoted to heavy in- ing in trees or soaking in baths, as well as attack on “Orientalism.” —Paul Levy dustry as an art capital of another sort, Mr. Tillmans’s signature candid shots of Until Aug. 31 one in which international art fills public ’90s youth culture and documentary- % 44-20-7887-8888 spacesand artists arefreetoexperiment type urban landscapes. www.tate.org.uk © Wolfgang Tillmans, Courtesy Galerie Daniel Buchholz, Köln

WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 W13 v Taste Club Bunk Bed

By Cameron Stracher months doing research in a lab. So themselves—like play ping pong parent wanted to buck the trend, panded as our family multiplied. I we send our children to camp. and (gasp!) read. he would be hard-pressed to find am now the same age my father A couple of weeks ago, I put my Like so many other aspects of According to the American play dates or stickball compan- was when he bought the house, 12-year-old son on a bus at a rest modern childhood, summer camps Camp Association, there are ions for his kids. Staying home is yet my mother still asks every stop off Interstate 95 in Darien, arose with industrialized society. 12,000 camps in the U.S., nearly for losers, and it’s not so great morning what I want for dinner. Connecticut. I won’t see him again Early camps were part of a 7,000 of them “resident” camps, for the parents, either. Gone are It drives me crazy, but it also re- until August. For this privilege, I back-to-nature trend. They were employing 1.2 million adults and the days of kids riding a bike minds me that my childhood is am paying about a quite rugged, often enrolling 11 million campers. The down the block and returning for rooted in this home away from thousand dollars a perched at the edge summer-camp market gener- home. One morning my son week. While some Summer camps of a lake (to be fur- ates $10 billion to $12 billion and I biked into town, bought people might be will- ther from “civiliza- in revenues annually, accord- sandwiches at the single gro- ing to pay even more used to be a lot tion”), with limited ing to CampGroup, the largest cery store, and ate them on to send away their rougher—and facilities, inadequate operator of for-profit camps in the beach. “Isn’t this fun?” I tweens for a good housing, bad food the U.S., which is a lot of asked, my bare foot knocking chunk of the sum- cheaper. and mosquitoes as marshmallows. Fees range against his. “No, Dad, it’s bor- mer, it breaks my large as birds. widely—from $200 to $1,500 a ing,” he said. “I want to go heart each time I do it (and not As ideals about childhood week, says CampGroup—with back to camp.” just because of the size of the changed after World War II, how- most “premium camps” (those It hurt me, my son’s rejec- check). He’s going to spend the ever, and as camp professionals charging more than $900 a tion of my own childhood. I rest of his life away from home; tried to appeal to doting parents, week) in the Northeast. In- wanted him to have the free- why are we accelerating the pro- summer camps began to replicate deed, the lengthy “sleepaway” dom I had, to lay down the cess? But he wants to go, and my some of the comforts of home experience was originally a foundations for his adult life wife thinks it’s good for him, and (flush toilets, anyone?). It was Northeast phenomenon. This and not be bound by some arti- I’m just his father after all. only a matter of time before meals explains why my wife—from ficial construct of childhood. Once upon a time, parents were prepared by staff, badminton Idaho—spent only one week at But I realized that childhood didn’t need to take out a second was introduced, and hot water re- a Catholic youth camp while as we know it has always been mortgage to care for their kids dur- placed cold baths in the lake. The growing up, and why wealthy a constructed phenomenon. ing the summer. My own summers rhetorical ideal of camp itself friends in Los Angeles (the fa- My own summers nestled in were spent in a three-bedroom cot- changed, too, as camps empha- ther is from New York) stick my parents’ second home tage in Woods Hole, Massachu- sized the social and organizational their son on an airplane to were just as artificial as my setts, where my father, a scientist, virtues of shared work. Special- Boston so that he can live in a son’s camp experience. I didn’t did research on squid and sea ur- ized camps offering tennis instruc- bunk bed in New Hampshire want him to have an “authen- chins while my brother, sister and tion, basketball, dance and other for a month. tic” experience; I wanted him I attended “science school” classes, skills proliferated in the 1970s and But in many upper-middle- to have my experience. biked around town, swam and ’80s, the better to prepare chil- class communities it’s hard to Getty Images So this summer his mother played tennis, learned to smoke dren for an adulthood of cutthroat find a kid who doesn’t go to dinner. Children must be man- and I are embracing our new- and drink, and generally got into competition. Today, the pendulum camp. The steady growth in camp aged, and management is exhaust- found independence. We’ve sent trouble. I remember them as the may be swinging slightly back to enrollment and the increase in ing. It’s no wonder so many par- his sister to camp, too. happiest days of my life. But the nature, and one of the things my the number of camps (day camps, ents are smiling as the bus pulls house my father bought for a pit- wife and I like best about my son’s for example, grew by 90% in the out of the lot. Mr. Stracher is the publisher of tance on his academic salary is camp is that there are no comput- past 20 years) reflect this new re- Last summer, after camp the New York Law School Law Re- now beyond the reach of anyone ers or cellphones allowed, and the ality. The streets in our town are ended, we insisted that our son view and the author of “Dinner but an investment banker, and no kids actually have to do quite emptied of children once school accompany us to my parents’ With Dad: How I Found My Way one will pay me to spend two “primitive” things to entertain lets out for the summer. Even if a house in Cape Cod, which had ex- Back to the Family Table.”

Masterpiece / By Tom Nolan 7 Hidden in Plain Hearing

Sixty years ago, in the hot The Canadian-born Gil Evans, Gil Evans’s tiny apartment on “‘Impressions in Modern Music,’ ance unit (but not on the summer of 1948, a cadre of young who joined that band in 1941, West 55th—a place Thornhill with the new Miles Davis organi- records), reversed the career arrangers and players worked in proved to be Thornhill’s ideal ar- himself had lived in, back in zation” made its debut, and some arc of several nonet members: a basement apartment behind a ranger. When bebop emerged, 1940—then became a sort of of its sets were heard by insom- After first working in Davis’s Chinese laundry on West 55th Evans blended its busy lines and workshop where Evans and Mul- niac New Yorkers via remote wee- group, he later played with the Street in New York to craft music advanced progressions with ligan, encouraged by Davis and hours radio broadcasts. Claude Thornhill band—albeit a that would later be tagged “the Thornhill’s meditative approach, joined by John Lewis and John The nonet attracted the atten- much-diminished 1958 touring birth of the cool”—the first nota- writing engaging arrangements Carisi, attempted to re-create tion of a Capitol Records execu- outfit. “[Claude] kept his dig- ble instance of a of bop standards the Thornhill band’s sound with tive who made sure it recorded a nity as his audience dwindled,” harmonically rich, such as altoist Char- as few in- total of 12 numbers in 1949 and wrote Mr. Zwerin, now a well-re- emotionally subtle The roots of lie Parker’s “Anthro- struments 1950— garded music journalist and au- type of jazz that pology” and “Yard- as possi- tracks that thor. “ . . . I marvel at how washed its gor- cool jazz in the bird Suite.” ble. This came out much control that must have in- geous chords and big band of Evans also ar- proved to first on volved, considering the skid he subtle dynamics ranged “Donna be nine: 78-rpm sin- was on. He knew he had been over a big chunk of Claude Lee,” a tune by trumpet, gles, then on something special.” Thornhill the 1950s. Thornhill. Parker’s young trombone, a 10-inch long- died in 1965, at the age of 55, on Trumpeter Miles sideman Miles French horn, playing disc, and, the eve of another comeback. Davis was the nomi- Davis. Lee Konitz, tuba, alto sax, in 1957, on a 12-inch Davis followed “Birth of the nal leader of this ensemble, but it then an equally young alto-sax baritone sax; and a album at last titled “Birth Cool” with a long and noteworthy was the outfit’s arrangers—prima- player from Chicago whose dry- rhythm section of pi- of the Cool.” career that saw several more col- rily Gil Evans and Gerry Mulligan— ice tone fit perfectly into Thorn- ano, bass and drums. By then the Davis group laborations with Evans, including who were the real stars. The de- hill’s low-vibrato outfit, remem- Players for this had inspired or influenced a their epochal LPs “Sketches of vices they drew on had been avail- bers Davis coming to hear the nonet were chosen (in- host of other cool-sounding Spain” and “Porgy and Bess.” able for years, hidden in plain band in 1947 at New York’s Penn- cluding several Thorn- nonets, octets, quartets and ten- And Evans made several al- hearing within the big band of sylvania Hotel. hill veterans). Rehears- tets—the most successful of bums of his own, including a Claude Thornhill. “It was basically a ballad als were held. Davis be- which was Gerry Mulligan’s “pi- 1961 platter titled (in acknowledg- The shy, Indiana-born Thorn- band,” Mr. Konitz (now 80 and came the nascent band’s ano-less” foursome with trum- ment of his musical genesis) hill had been on the swing and still active as a player) said re- leader, but the ensemble peter Chet Baker, whose lyri- “Out of the Cool.” Perhaps the dance-band scene since the cently. “People loved dancing to was no showcase for indi- cal, minimal style was not un- most ear-catching track on that 1930s: a pianist, arranger and it. Gil’s beautiful writing was vidual players, says Mr. like Miles Davis’s. disc was an Evans opus that be- leader whose self-penned theme- very danceable....Miles liked Konitz (who became “The Complete Birth of the came a sort of signature piece song, “Snowfall,” was an ethereal the band.” In 1950, Davis would its alto saxophonist): Cool,” a 1998 Capitol CD includ- for the big band he’d lead in spo- tone-poem in which time almost describe Thornhill’s orchestra to “This was a cham- ing broadcast transcriptions radic performance for 30 years; seemed to stop. Thornhill fa- Down Beat magazine as “the ber group— from the Royal Roost, continues it was probably Evans’s best- vored slow tempi and lingering greatest band of these modern composi- to sell. And the “Birth of the known composition. phrases. His band’s instrumenta- times. . . . It was commercially tional. Solos Cool” mystique grows: This Feb- Claude Thornhill’s old protégé tion included two French horns, good and musically good.” were kind of ruary, jazz-drummer and writer named this semi-theme song “La a sonorous tuba and enough reed But Thornhill disbanded this incidental.” Bill Moody published “Shades of Nevada”—Spanish for “Snowfall.” players to allow for passages orchestra in early 1948 for undis- The nonet was Blue” (Poisoned Pen Press), a with six or seven clarinets at a closed reasons. “Thornhill was booked for a few contemporary mystery novel Mr. Nolan is editor of “The Ar- time. With a theme like “Snow- pretty removed from everything,” weeks’ work at the turning on events surrounding cher Files: The Complete Short fall,” the Thornhill band epito- says Mr. Konitz. “I don’t think I Royal Roost, a jazz the Davis nonet. Stories of Lew Archer, Private In- mized coolness from the moment ever said much more than ‘hello’ venue on Broadway. In Mike Zwerin, the young trom- vestigator,” by Ross Macdonald it took the stage. to him in 10 months.” September 1948, David Gothard bonist in that ’48 live-perform- (Crippen & Landru).

W14 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 W7 WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 W15 W16 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 W17 DISTINCTIVE PROPERTIES &ESTATES

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W18 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL v Film Smith can’t save ‘Hancock’

ANCOCK” HAS BEEN pack- aged and heavily pro- ‘Hmoted as a summer block- buster—a big, spectacular produc- tion starring the ever-likable Will Smith. It is indeed summer, and Mr. Smith plays the title role, but that’s as far as any truth in advertising goes. The movie seems negligible; its running time is a mere 92 min- utes. And it succeeds only at the hitherto-impossible task of making

Film JOE MORGENSTERN Columbia Pictures Industries, Inc.

Mr. Smith disagreeable (though Jason Bateman and Will Smith in ‘Hancock.’ never boring; whatever he does, he’s a movie star). He plays a gang- Richard Borge sta superhero—a foulmouthed, mis- anthropic, booze-slugging slob who happens to have superpowers. It’s a DISTINCTIVE PROPERTIES &ESTATES tricky notion done badly, though Summer fare fuels yearning surely an oddity that will find a large audience. Any notions of de- molishing black stereotypes—and for an all-but-bygone era what else could have possessed Mr. Smith to do this?—are dashed by By Joe Morgenstern Then it was the moment, nearly un- the coarseness of it all, and by the ITH TWO BOUNTIFUL ex- matched in Hollywood’s pantheon narrative incoherence; a surprising ceptions, the first half of of hilarious moments, when the cur- plot twist turns a sloppy action-com- Wthe summer movie season tain goes up to reveal Debbie Rey- edy into a totally different movie, has yielded all the joy of a crop fail- nolds singing for Jean Hagen’s be- and an even worse one. ure. Those exceptions are, of course, loved monster Lina Lamont. That The sloppiness is quite startling. Pixar’s glorious “WALL§E,” which was almost the end, though, so I had A similar starting point—a super- opened to ecstatic reviews, and Mar- to go back to the opening scene hero who has worn out his welcome vel’s exhilarating “Iron Man,” which where Kelly’s Don Lockwood, on the with the public—was developed ele- got the season off to such a promis- red carpet with Lina at his side, talks gantly and imaginatively in “The In- ing start two months ago. One can about dignity. And then, talk about credibles.” But there’s no develop- only marvel at the disparity be- being seduced, I watched the whole ment here, just a string of clangor- tween these grand entertainments thing again for the umpteenth time ous action sequences and a fusillade and the dispirited studio schlock with undiminished delight. of givens—Hancock is a bum, he can that pervades the warm-weather It’s easy to fall into a nostalgic fly, his strength is limitless, and he marketplace. funk and lament the vanishing of creates chaos wherever he goes. In “High Fidelity,” a wonderful such movies, along with the studios As it turns out, though, Hancock comedy made eight years ago, the that made them and the spirit that behaves badly because he’s lonely record-store owner played by John begat them. Where, in today’s enter- and feels misunderstood. He reveals Cusack worries that he’s become tainment business, can you find any this side of himself when Ray, a sen- nothing but an appreciator, a man counterpart to the cornucopia of timental PR executive played nicely with no life of his own. During “Singin’ in the Rain,” a movie whose by Jason Bateman, sets out to clean stretches of this summer I’ve wor- every scene offered—continues to up Hancock’s image so he can be a ried about becoming nothing but a offer—marvelous performances, happier person and a more effective deprecator, and with ample reason. scintillating dialogue and ravishing superhero. Not a bad idea at all, but, Bad movies wear you down. After a colors, not to mention the pleasures here again, what might have been Bird Cay screening of “Get Smart,” a friend of a classic score? amusing grows soggy and ponder- who works for the studio that pro- The spirit lives, albeit only in pro- ous. How much can one care about Berry Islands, Bahamas the travails of a surrogate Super- duced it shrugged, smiled gamely tected places; the cornucopian ideal 250-acre private island just 30 minutes by air from Nassau. Ideal for a and said, “It could have been endures. “High Fidelity” doesn’t be- man when the threat of kryptonite business retreat, family compound, or resort. $28,000,000. Ref. BS10570 worse.” Yes, it could, just as “The long in the same category as “Sin- is replaced by shaky self-esteem? John Christie; HGChristie Ltd. Love Guru” could have been more re- gin’ in the Rain,” let alone in the (The director, Peter Berg, uses the 242-322-1041 pulsive, “Indiana Jones and the same league, but similarities exist. false energy of tight close-ups when- [email protected] www.HGChristie.com Kingdom of the Crystal Skull” could Every scene serves up something ever there’s a sag in the illusory en- have been more fatigued and special, every element of the whole ergy of the overproduced action.) “Speed Racer” could have been less is far better than it needed to be. Ray’s wife, Mary, is played by coherent. But let’s not dwell on how. “Iron Man” bears little resemblance Charlize Theron, whom I always end Let us dwell, instead, on the ingredi- to “High Fidelity,” except that it, up praising in more or less the same ents of wonderful. too, deploys excellence as a secret way: Beautiful as she is, she’s also a “High Fidelity” is a good place to weapon—nothing else could explain terrific actress. This time I’ll add start. I never meant to watch it the casting of Robert Downey Jr. in something else—she has a beauti- again when I fed the DVD to my the title role—and has proved to be fully modulated voice. But she’s the kitchen-counter player a couple of a blockbuster in the bargain. only modulation model on the pre- weeks ago; all I wanted was to re- All of this gets us back to mises. Once the tale takes its radical visit a few scenes while tossing a din- “WALL§E,” which isn’t a musical, turn, every vestige of subtlety is Live ner salad. But wonderful movies but really is in the same league as blown away. draw you in and refuse to let you go. “Singin’ in the Rain.” If that state- John Cusack’s blithe self-irony, Jack ment seems excessive, wait till you Black’s strutting self-enchantment, see the copiousness of the produc- WSJ.com Iben Hjejle’s tenderness, Stephen tion—it’s just one damned wonder Opening this week in Europe Frears’s deft direction and Nick after another. These days, when Hol- Hornby’s dazzling language all con- lywood studios no longer seem to n Get Smart France, Germany, Poland, spired against me to the point where know, or care, how to make consis- Spain Larger I brought in a chair from the dining tently appealing movies, I think of n Hancock Denmark, Finland, Norway, table and sat contentedly at the Pixar—the people, not their comput- Spain, Sweden counter until the end credits rolled. ers—as the industry’s institutional n Kung Fu Panda Denmark, Norway, Something of the same thing hap- memory. They remember what flaw- Sweden for more information call, pened more recently. The day after less showmanship looks like and n The Chronicles of Narnia: 44-20-7842-9600 or 49-69-971-4280 Cyd Charisse died, I thought it sounds like, they remember the Prince Caspian Portugal would be nice to say goodbye by power of well-told stories. You n WALL·E Iceland, Lithuania, U.K. watching her dance in “Singin’ in could even make a case for Pixar as Source: IMDB the Rain.” But you don’t watch only the new MGM—not a dictatorship, one scene from that film; at least I as the old MGM was during its WSJ.com subscribers can read reviews don’t. First it was Charisse seducing golden age, but a meritocracy, in a of these films and others at Gene Kelly in “Broadway Melody.” golden age of its own creation. WSJ.com/FilmReview

WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 W19 © British Museum, London

Amsterdam Left, ‘Fallen Star 1/5’ (2008) by Do Ho art Suh, in London; above, late 18th “Books in the Age of Rembrandt” century-early 19th century wooden shows 10 master paintings of the stool from Polynesia, in Paris. Dutch Golden Age featuring depictions of books. The books shown in these works are also on display. Prague Rijksmuseum Amsterdam Schiphol art Until Oct. 13 “Brussels Dream, Expo 1958” is a multi- % 31-20-6747-000 media presentation of architecture, art www.rijksmuseum.nl and design of the Czechoslovak exhibit at the 1958 World Fair in Brussels. Barcelona Museum of Decorative art Arts—Galerie Josefa Sudka “Ukiyo-e, Pictures of a Brief World” Until Sept. 21 % shows more than 100 Japanese 420-2510-9311-1 “ukiyo-e” woodblock prints by authors www.upm.cz Harunobu, Kiyonaga, Utamaro, Hokusai and Hiroshige. Rome La Pedrera—Centre Cultural Caixa art Catalunya “Correggio and the Antique” shows 60 Until Sept. 14 paintings and drawings by Renais- % 34-902-4009-73 sance artist Correggio (1489-1534), in- www.caixacat.es/cccc cluding “Jupiter and Io,” “The Abduc- tion of Ganymede” and “The Educa- tion of Cupid.” Berlin Museo e Galleria Borghese jewelry Until Sept. 14 “‘Gioiello Italiano’ Contemporary Jew- % 39-06-8413-979 elry from Italy between Art and De- www.galleriaborghese.it sign” presents selected pieces from renowned contemporary Italian design- ers and jewelers. Stuttgart Kunstgewerbemuseum—Kulturforum decorative art “The Luxury and Desire of Rococo: Until Oct. 5 Duke Carl Eugen’s Venetian Fair” exhib- % 49-30-2662-902 Courtesy the artist and Lehmann Maupin Gallery, New York, © Stephen White its Rococo style porcelain and Vene- www.smb.spk-berlin.de tian masks collected by Duke Carl Eu- gen of Württemberg. art Landesmuseum Württemberg “Painting for Eternity: The Tombs of Until Sept. 21 Paestum” shows about 45 painted % 49-711-2793-498 tomb slabs of the Lucani, an Italian www.landesmuseum-stuttgart.de tribe that lived in the former Greek Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery of Barbican Art Gallery than 180 events, including music, colony of Paestum around 400 B.C. Modern Art Until Sept. 21 dance, cinema, theater, opera, zarzuela Martin-Gropius-Bau Until Nov. 8 % 44-20-7638-4141 and circus entertainment staged at Vienna Until Sept. 28 % 353-1-2225-550 www.barbican.org.uk various venues in Madrid. gardens % 49-30-2548-60 www.hughlane.ie Veranos de la Villa “Oases of Tranquillity—The great land- scape gardens in Central Europe” www.gropius-bau.de architecture Until Aug. 24 theater % 34-91-4804-800 shows paintings, engravings, plans, “Psycho Buildings” explores the inte- maps, photographs and sculptures il- photography “Big Love” by Charles Mee: Fifty www.esmadrid.com/veranosdelavilla rior and exterior of the gallery through lustrating the history of great Central “Hiroshi Sugimoto Retrospective” ex- brides flee 50 grooms and seek ref- intricate habitat-like structures and ar- European landscape gardens. hibits more than 70 black-and-white uge in an idyllic Italian villa. When the chitectural environments. Munich Liechtenstein Museum stills by the Japanese photographer grooms catch up with their brides, Hayward Gallery architecture Until Nov. 18 (born 1948). mayhem ensues in a modern retelling Until Aug. 25 “Drawn in Sand—Unrealized Visions by % 43-1-3195-7670 of “The Danaids” or “The Suppliant Neue Nationalgalerie % 44-871-6632-501 Alvar Aalto” shows 120 drawings and www.liechtensteinmuseum.at Until Oct. 5 Women” by Aeschylus. www.hayward.org.uk 18 models of unrealized projects by % Peacock Theatre 49-30-2662-651 the Finnish architect and designer Al- art Until Aug. 2 www.smb.spk-berlin.de art var Aalto, including plans for a piazza “Julian Opie—Recent Works” shows a % 353-1-8872-200 “Vilhelm Hammershøi: The Poetry of in Montreal, a Columbus memorial in selection of portraits, nudes and a cy- Bilbao www.abbeytheatre.ie Silence” is a retrospective of paintings Santo Domingo and museums of art cle of new landscape pictures by con- art by Danish artist Vilhelm Hammershøi in Shiraz and Tallinn. temporary British artist Julian Opie “Juan Muñoz: A Retrospective” exhib- Florence (1864-1916). Pinakothek der Moderne (born 1958). its more than 80 works, including music Royal Academy of Arts Until Oct. 5 MAK-Österreichisches Museum für sculptures, installations, drawings and “Tuscany Lyrical Festival 2008” pre- Until Sept. 7 % 49-89-2380-5360 Angewandte Kunst writings by the Spanish sculptor sents opera performances at various % 44-20-7300-8000 www.pinakothek.de/pinakothek-der Until Sept. 21 (1953-2001). locations in Tuscany, staging “La Travi- www.royalacademy.org.uk -moderne % 43-1-7113-60 Guggenheim Museum Bilbao ata,” “La Bohème” and Carl Orff’s “Car- www.MAK.at Until Oct. 5 mina Burana” in Florence. Madrid Paris % 34-94-4359-080 Florence Opera Festival festival art Warsaw www.guggenheim-bilbao.es Until July 30 “Marie d’Orléans 1813-1839: Princess music % “Veranos de la Villa 2008” offers more 39-0555-9790-05 and Artist Romantic” exhibits draw- “Mozart Festival 2008” presents all of Brussels www.festivalopera.it ings, sculptures, paintings, furniture Mozart’s stage works, including “The architecture and personal objects collected and cre- Magic Flute” and “Don Giovanni,” as “Plecnik Project” shows models and Hamburg ated by Marie d’Orléans, daughter of well as songs and selected chamber, documentation of work from Prague, art King Louis-Philippe. symphonic and oratorial works. Vienna and Ljubljana by Slovenian ar- “Mark Rothko: The Retrospective” Musée du Louvre Mozart Festival chitect Joze Plecnik (1872-1957). shows a career-spanning 110 works Until July 21 Until July 26 Museum of Modern Art by the American Abstract Expression- % 33-1-4020-5050 % 48-22-6283-096 Until Aug. 20 ist painter (1903-1970). www.louvre.fr www.operakameralna.pl % 32-2-5083-211 Hamburger Kunsthalle Source: ArtBase Global Arts News Service, www.fine-arts-museum.be Until Aug. 24 art WSJE research. % 49-40-4281-3120-0 “Art and Divinity in Polynesia, Dublin www.hamburger-kunsthalle.de 1760-1860” shows works of 18th-cen- art tury art from Hawaii, the Easter Is- WSJ.com

“Julian Opie Walking on O’Connell London © Julian Opie and Lisson Gallery/MAK lands and New Zealand, such as ivory What’s on ornaments, war bonnets and textiles. Street” features five LED installations fashion WSJ.com subscribers can see an Musée du quai Branly showing animated individuals walking “The House of Viktor & Rolf” exhibits expanded version of the European Until Sept. 14 in front of the gallery on Parnell 15 years of creations by Dutch fashion arts-and-culture calendar, at ‘Shahnoza with nose stud,’ 2007, % 33-1-5661-7000 Square as part of a Julian Opie designers Viktor & Rolf, with signature WSJ.com/Europe project. pieces from 1992 to present. by Julian Opie, in Vienna. www.quaibranly.fr

W20 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, JULY 11 - 13, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL