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Helsinki Helsinki Retail— — Retail Menswear Suitably fashionable Retail — In the bag Sauma, Kamppi Masterful men’s clothing The ready-to-wear stock at the city’s best formal menswear shop is fantastic – Drake’s, Aspesi, Incotex – but it’s the in-house suiting that really Design flows through sets it apart. Founder Tuomo Finland’s veins – think Pynttäri spent seven years Artek and Iittala. This under Finland’s master tailor is a country with a long Jouni Korhonen. “He was a true tradition of superlative artisan and from him I learned manufacturing, original all that I know,” says Pynttäri, aesthetics and thoughtful who took over the atelier – and invention. Great creators what would become Sauma – such as Timo Sarpaneva, after his teacher’s death. The Eero Saarinen and the shop offers ready-to-wear, inimitable Alvar Aalto made-to-measure and bespoke dedicated their lives to suits and shirts. improving the way 14 Bulevardi, 00120 we live through design, +358 (0)9 495 524 and they’ve inspired a vaatturiliikesauma.fi whole new generation. Helsinki has a robust textile and clothes- Frenn, Kamppi making heritage too; Capsule wardrobe staples Aalto University’s fashion programme dates back Founders and partners Jarkko almost 150 years. This is Kallio and Antti Laitinen particularly the case for Formal Friday, Kamppi (both pictured, Kallio on left) womenswear, where the Quality threads launched this flagship store on likes of Marimekko lead a bright corner plot in Kamppi the pack, and menswear After working abroad for in 2018. Together they design is catching up. But don’t brands such as Armani, effortlessly elegant, practical expect total minimalism Dolce & Gabbana and Bottega and modern men’s clothing à la Sweden or Denmark. Veneta, Teemu Muurimäki that’s neither formal nor casual This Nordic country loves (pictured) returned to his – one of their made-to-measure bright colours and loud native Finland to found his jackets is as suited to the opera patterns (all in due own menswear label. Formal as it is to after-work drinks. measure, of course). Friday is big on Merino wool; “For us it’s not natural We’ve combed the it’s woven into T-shirts, rain that at work you look like one city and met the retailers jackets, jeans and dress shirts. thing and in leisure time like and designers who call “I grew frustrated by the poor something else,” says Kallio. He it home, from vintage quality of the materials used and Laitinen want men to feel dealers and well-stocked by big fashion houses,” says comfortable and well presented bookshops to a couple Muurimäki. “I wanted to at all times. In addition to suits making wooden toys and a make clothes from the best and shirts, they put out brightly trainers brand that’s giving ones I could possibly find.” coloured jumpers, simple tees the big sportswear players Lasipalatsi, 22-24 and woollen parkas. a run for their money. Mannerheimintie, 00100 24 Fredrikinkatu, 00120 +358 (0)44 262 4740 +358 (0)40 777 1943 formalfridayclothing.com frenncompany.com 044 045 Helsinki Helsinki Retail— — Retail Womenswear Nomen Nescio, Kamppi Smart shoes and hemlines Ambiguous appeal In Latin, nomen nescio means “I don’t know the name” – which is all you need to know about Niina and Timo Leskelä’s brand. Anonymity is key to their design: black, minimalist and unisex (though in our opinion the cut and style has a more masculine appeal). The range, made in Estonia with fabrics mostly from Italy, offers everything from basic T-shirts and trousers to fitted jackets, beanies and rollnecks. Some might dismiss the concept as lazy but it has merit: whereas clothing is normally expressive, and says something about the wearer, Nomen Nescio’s garments purposefully reveal nothing – a fine thing if mystery is your goal. 24 Fredrikinkatu, 00120 Samuji, Kaartinkaupunki +358 (0)40 962 1896 Industry heavyweight nomennescio.fi Founded by former Marimekko creative director Samu-Jussi Koski, Samuji is a Finnish R/H Market, Kluuvi fashion label worth getting Statement pieces familiar with: it’s renowned for its original designs and This is the home of the quirky flattering cuts. Its womenswear label R/H Studio, founded line was born out of the Minna Parikka Universum, by Hanna Riiheläinen and designer’s frustration with the Kluuvi Emilia Hernesniemi in 2010. transience of the fashion world. Walk this way Their clothes are brightly “Our clothes are produced in coloured and splashed with Italy, Portugal and Estonia and Finns are generally modest loud patterns; the wide-fitting I want them to be timeless,” and understated people – a trousers and long elegant says Koski. national image that Minna dresses stand in stark contrast His pieces range from Parikka totally dashes to pieces. to Nordic minimalism. It’s heavily patterned bomber The playful shoe brand may a style that celebrates and jackets to chunky knits and seem as if it should belong in draws attention to itself simple dresses with abstract Milan or New York but it has while remaining graceful patterns. Do look out for the quickly won over hearts and and feminine. handful of other brands Samuji wardrobes here. The setting is a 19th-century stocks too, including furniture At this flagship store you’ll building, redesigned by Teppo by Noun, and feel free to gawp find flats, heels, boots, trainers Reivo and Eliisa Korpijärvi. at Tuukka Tammisaari’s vast and sandals, many of which R/H Studio has dedicated part painting on the ground floor. are very simple in their design. of the space to children’s label 9B Erottajankatu, 00130 But it’s the 2014 “bunny ear” Papu and artisanal fragrance +358 (0)40 350 7976 collection that has become the brand Frantsila – both up-and- brand’s standard-bearer. coming Finnish names. 36 Aleksanterinkatu, 00100 19 Pohjoisesplanadi, 00100 +358 (0)9 667 554 +358 (0)44 702 1111 minnaparikka.com rh-studio.fi 046 047 Helsinki Helsinki Retail— — Retail Concept stores Three more for the girls M Gummerus, Kluuvi Think outside the box Mediterranean influence 01 Katri Niskanen, Kamppi: This Finnish label is Finnish designer Minna relatively new to the Gummerus’ brand boasts fashion scene, having only a small selection and Lokal, Punavuori been launched in 2010, an equally diminutive space Form and function but its eponymous in the Esplanad shopping founder was quick off the centre. That’s probably for If you’re keen to spot Finnish mark, winning designer the best because we want to designers before they become of the year at the Finnish buy every piece. international darlings, don’t Elle Style Awards in 2014. Gummerus’ designs are miss Lokal. Its collection The clothes are elegant rustic and Mediterranean, generally tethers around and formal, and the silk perhaps a result of the time homeware, and ceramics are dresses are a highlight. she spends in Marbella, a particularly strong suit. katriniskanen.com Spain, where she has her We recommend the work of 02 Ritva Falla, Ullanlinna: flagship store. It’s equal up-and-comers Leena Kouhia At times this brand parts homeware and clothing: and Church Square Ceramics can feel a little staid but think soft bathrobes in muted – both make beautifully rough- the summer collection tones, linen towels and airy and-tumble tableware. especially has its dresses. Our pick of the lot, The founder, Finnish moments. Think loose however, is the collection’s photographer Katja Hagelstam fits, lots of stripes and only true Nordic item: the (pictured), has an eye for a general Hamptons- cosy cashmere jumpers. colour and texture. Her space style bohemianism. Galleria Esplanad, is all pastel hues and wooden ritvafalla.com 33 Pohjoisesplanadi, 00100 notes and feels as much like a 03 Anna Ruohonen, +358 (0)9 6813 0030 gallery as it does a shop. Pop Kamppi: The Paris- mgummerus.com in for furniture by sought-after based Finnish designer Fiskars-based brand Nikari (see has two ranges: AR by page 133). Anna Ruohonen and the 9 Annankatu, 00120 main collection, which +358 (0)9 684 9818 is brighter and more lokalhelsinki.com flatteringly cut. It’s also made-to-order, meaning it fits like a glove. Tauko, Katajanokka annaruohonen.com Sensitive touch Finns are environmentally conscious people so it was only a matter of time before the attitude trickled down to fashion. Tauko, founded by Mila Moisio and Kaisa Rissanen, makes all of its I’ve got the hard clothing from recycled textiles. job: navigating Those raw materials come from Finland, while most of the sewing and cutting is done in Estonia. “We are committed to creating chic and ethical clothing,” says Moisio. And chic these pieces are, from wide-lapel jackets to basic white tees. 15 Kanavaranta, 00160 +358 (0)50 575 4764 taukodesign.com 048 049 Helsinki Helsinki Retail— — Retail Common, Punavuori Shared sensibility Kohsuke Nakamura (pictured) left Tokyo to study in Finland in 2004 and came up with the idea for Common while working as a guide on a Beams × Artek exhibition in 2006. “I was inspired and wanted to learn more about Finnish culture,” he says. A year later he established a shop for fine Japanese clothing, homeware and accessories, from brands such as Fog Linen Work, Hender Scheme and Postalco. Nakamura chose the name Common because he felt a strong mutuality between the cultures and mindsets of Japan and Finland. And while the labels may be Japanese, the shelving and furniture is by Finnish makers such as Nikari. 1 Pursimiehenkatu, 00120 +358 (0)9 670 385 common-helsinki.com Moko Market Café & Store, Punavuori Home comforts In addition to being a popular spot to kick back with a coffee, Moko was one of Helsinki’s first independent homeware shops.