Helsinki Retail— — Retail

Menswear Suitably fashionable Retail — In the bag

Sauma, Masterful men’s clothing

The ready-to-wear stock at the city’s best formal menswear shop is fantastic – Drake’s, Aspesi, Incotex – but it’s the in-house suiting that really Design flows through sets it apart. Founder Tuomo ’s veins – think Pynttäri spent seven years Artek and Iittala. This under Finland’s master tailor is a country with a long Jouni Korhonen. “He was a true tradition of superlative artisan and from him I learned manufacturing, original all that I know,” says Pynttäri, aesthetics and thoughtful who took over the atelier – and invention. Great creators what would become Sauma – such as Timo Sarpaneva, after his teacher’s death. The Eero Saarinen and the shop offers ready-to-wear, inimitable Alvar Aalto made-to-measure and bespoke dedicated their lives to suits and shirts. improving the way 14 Bulevardi, 00120 we live through design, +358 (0)9 495 524 and they’ve inspired a vaatturiliikesauma.fi whole new generation. Helsinki has a robust textile and clothes- Frenn, Kamppi making heritage too; Capsule wardrobe staples Aalto University’s fashion programme dates back Founders and partners Jarkko almost 150 years. This is and Antti Laitinen particularly the case for Formal Friday, Kamppi (both pictured, Kallio on left) womenswear, where the Quality threads launched this flagship store on likes of Marimekko lead a bright corner plot in Kamppi the pack, and menswear After working abroad for in 2018. Together they design is catching up. But don’t brands such as Armani, effortlessly elegant, practical expect total minimalism Dolce & Gabbana and Bottega and modern men’s clothing à la Sweden or Denmark. Veneta, Teemu Muurimäki that’s neither formal nor casual This Nordic country loves (pictured) returned to his – one of their made-to-measure bright colours and loud native Finland to found his jackets is as suited to the opera patterns (all in due own menswear label. Formal as it is to after-work drinks. measure, of course). Friday is big on Merino wool; “For us it’s not natural We’ve combed the it’s woven into T-shirts, rain that at work you look like one city and met the retailers jackets, jeans and dress shirts. thing and in leisure time like and designers who call “I grew frustrated by the poor something else,” says Kallio. He it home, from vintage quality of the materials used and Laitinen want men to feel dealers and well-stocked by big fashion houses,” says comfortable and well presented bookshops to a couple Muurimäki. “I wanted to at all times. In addition to suits making wooden toys and a make clothes from the best and shirts, they put out brightly trainers brand that’s giving ones I could possibly find.” coloured jumpers, simple tees the big sportswear players Lasipalatsi, 22-24 and woollen parkas. a run for their money. Mannerheimintie, 00100 24 Fredrikinkatu, 00120 +358 (0)44 262 4740 +358 (0)40 777 1943 formalfridayclothing.com frenncompany.com

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Womenswear Nomen Nescio, Kamppi Smart shoes and hemlines Ambiguous appeal

In Latin, nomen nescio means “I don’t know the name” – which is all you need to know about Niina and Timo Leskelä’s brand. Anonymity is key to their design: black, minimalist and unisex (though in our opinion the cut and style has a more masculine appeal). The range, made in Estonia with fabrics mostly from Italy, offers everything from basic T-shirts and trousers to fitted jackets, beanies and rollnecks. Some might dismiss the concept as lazy but it has merit: whereas clothing is normally expressive, and says something about the wearer, Nomen Nescio’s garments purposefully reveal nothing – a fine thing if mystery is your goal. 24 Fredrikinkatu, 00120 Samuji, +358 (0)40 962 1896 Industry heavyweight nomennescio.fi Founded by former Marimekko creative director Samu-Jussi Koski, Samuji is a Finnish R/H Market, Kluuvi fashion label worth getting Statement pieces familiar with: it’s renowned for its original designs and This is the home of the quirky flattering cuts. Its womenswear label R/H Studio, founded line was born out of the Minna Parikka Universum, by Hanna Riiheläinen and designer’s frustration with the Kluuvi Emilia Hernesniemi in 2010. transience of the fashion world. Walk this way Their clothes are brightly “Our clothes are produced in coloured and splashed with Italy, Portugal and Estonia and Finns are generally modest loud patterns; the wide-fitting I want them to be timeless,” and understated people – a trousers and long elegant says Koski. national image that Minna dresses stand in stark contrast His pieces range from Parikka totally dashes to pieces. to Nordic minimalism. It’s heavily patterned bomber The playful shoe brand may a style that celebrates and jackets to chunky knits and seem as if it should belong in draws attention to itself simple dresses with abstract Milan or New York but it has while remaining graceful patterns. Do look out for the quickly won over hearts and and feminine. handful of other brands Samuji wardrobes here. The setting is a 19th-century stocks too, including furniture At this flagship store you’ll building, redesigned by Teppo by Noun, and feel free to gawp find flats, heels, boots, trainers Reivo and Eliisa Korpijärvi. at Tuukka Tammisaari’s vast and sandals, many of which R/H Studio has dedicated part painting on the ground floor. are very simple in their design. of the space to children’s label 9B Erottajankatu, 00130 But it’s the 2014 “bunny ear” Papu and artisanal fragrance +358 (0)40 350 7976 collection that has become the brand Frantsila – both up-and- brand’s standard-bearer. coming Finnish names. 36 , 00100 19 Pohjoisesplanadi, 00100 +358 (0)9 667 554 +358 (0)44 702 1111 minnaparikka.com rh-studio.fi

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Concept stores Three more for the girls M Gummerus, Kluuvi Think outside the box Mediterranean influence 01 Katri Niskanen, Kamppi: This Finnish label is Finnish designer Minna relatively new to the Gummerus’ brand boasts fashion scene, having only a small selection and Lokal, Punavuori been launched in 2010, an equally diminutive space Form and function but its eponymous in the Esplanad shopping founder was quick off the centre. That’s probably for If you’re keen to spot Finnish mark, winning designer the best because we want to designers before they become of the year at the Finnish buy every piece. international darlings, don’t Elle Style Awards in 2014. Gummerus’ designs are miss Lokal. Its collection The clothes are elegant rustic and Mediterranean, generally tethers around and formal, and the silk perhaps a result of the time homeware, and ceramics are dresses are a highlight. she spends in Marbella, a particularly strong suit. katriniskanen.com Spain, where she has her We recommend the work of 02 Ritva Falla, Ullanlinna: flagship store. It’s equal up-and-comers Leena Kouhia At times this brand parts homeware and clothing: and Church Square Ceramics can feel a little staid but think soft bathrobes in muted – both make beautifully rough- the summer collection tones, linen towels and airy and-tumble tableware. especially has its dresses. Our pick of the lot, The founder, Finnish moments. Think loose however, is the collection’s photographer Katja Hagelstam fits, lots of stripes and only true Nordic item: the (pictured), has an eye for a general Hamptons- cosy cashmere jumpers. colour and texture. Her space style bohemianism. Galleria Esplanad, is all pastel hues and wooden ritvafalla.com 33 Pohjoisesplanadi, 00100 notes and feels as much like a 03 Anna Ruohonen, +358 (0)9 6813 0030 gallery as it does a shop. Pop Kamppi: The Paris- mgummerus.com in for furniture by sought-after based Finnish designer Fiskars-based brand Nikari (see has two ranges: AR by page 133). Anna Ruohonen and the 9 Annankatu, 00120 main collection, which +358 (0)9 684 9818 is brighter and more lokalhelsinki.com flatteringly cut. It’s also made-to-order, meaning it fits like a glove. Tauko, Katajanokka annaruohonen.com Sensitive touch

Finns are environmentally conscious people so it was only a matter of time before the attitude trickled down to fashion. Tauko, founded by Mila Moisio and Kaisa Rissanen, makes all of its I’ve got the hard clothing from recycled textiles. job: navigating Those raw materials come from Finland, while most of the sewing and cutting is done in Estonia. “We are committed to creating chic and ethical clothing,” says Moisio. And chic these pieces are, from wide-lapel jackets to basic white tees. 15 Kanavaranta, 00160 +358 (0)50 575 4764 taukodesign.com

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Common, Punavuori Shared sensibility

Kohsuke Nakamura (pictured) left Tokyo to study in Finland in 2004 and came up with the idea for Common while working as a guide on a Beams × Artek exhibition in 2006. “I was inspired and wanted to learn more about Finnish culture,” he says. A year later he established a shop for fine Japanese clothing, homeware and accessories, from brands such as Fog Linen Work, Hender Scheme and Postalco. Nakamura chose the name Common because he felt a strong mutuality between the cultures and mindsets of Japan and Finland. And while the labels may be Japanese, the shelving and furniture is by Finnish makers such as Nikari. 1 Pursimiehenkatu, 00120 +358 (0)9 670 385 common-helsinki.com

Moko Market Café & Store, Punavuori Home comforts

In addition to being a popular spot to kick back with a coffee, Moko was one of Helsinki’s first independent homeware shops. In many ways it’s the antithesis of minimalistic Nordic design: you’ll encounter layers of vintage items and colourful homeware, as well as stationery, cosmetics and a fine book selection – by and large from local and European makers. We like the signature candles and the organic green- tea-and-bergamot soap, all handmade in Helsinki. “We want to be a living room,” says founder Lilli Toukolehto. “We want people to stay and feel at home in the shop.” 10 Perämiehenkatu, 00150 +358 (0)10 315 6156 moko.fi

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Homeware Treasures and trinkets Arabia, Kluuvi Unbreakable tradition

Design heavyweight Arabia started off in Helsinki as a porcelain factory in 1873, under the auspices of Swedish company Rörstrand, producing tableware for Russian nobles. Its style was – and is – ornate, but simple collections have been added to the mix, including the current Lumi set designed by Heikki Orvola. The company has also worked on big commissions, including providing Alvar Aalto with tiles for the interior of his National Pensions Institute (see page 101) in the 1950s. 23 Pohjoisesplanadi, 00100 Lapuan Kankurit, +358 (0)20 439 3042 arabia.fi Richly textured heritage

This family-run business, which dates back more than a century, is currently in the hands of husband-and-wife Jaana and Esko Hjelt. Their wares – from throws and cushions to bed Hakola, Kamppi linen and place mats – are all Part of the furniture created from natural materials in Lapua, western Finland. Hakola has been making The Hjelts also collaborate: furniture in the Finnish village Reeta Ek makes linen towels; of Jurva for more than 50 years. Poiat, Punavuori Makoto Kagoshima’s forte is Today the business is in the Turning the tables wool blankets in woodland- hands of Jari Hakola (the son of inspired patterns; and Anu Eero Hakola) and his daughter This is the design studio Leinonen produces rustic Annaleena Hämäläinen. of interior architects Antti bathrobes and aprons. On display at the Kamppi Rouhunkoski (pictured)and 2 Katariinankatu, 00170 showroom are comfy armchairs Timo Mikkonen, and his wife +358 (0)50 538 8244 and sofas, sturdy tables, and ceo Jenni Mikkonen. The lapuankankurit.fi bookshelves and ceramic trio launched their range in tableware and plant pots. 2014 with the simple Lavitta The elegantly rudimentary chair, made from two pieces Noma armchair is the brand’s of plywood and inspired by most iconic piece; the clean, the classic folding chairs you’ll unfettered style will brighten find at most Finnish summer up any living room – even homes. For their latest work one in Helsinki in the depths – the Fiori collection of low- of winter. slung oak or walnut tables – 28 Fredrikinkatu, 00120 they collaborated with Fiskars- +358 (0)50 358 2739 based artist Antrei Hartikainen. hakola.fi 22 Merimiehenkatu, 00150 + 358 (0)44 595 7170 poiat.com

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Specialist shops Iittala, Kluuvi Niche products Home designs

Finnish design and Iittala are synonymous. The brand is a staple in all Finnish homes and a specialist in glass – an expertise that has been at its very roots since its conception in 1881 in the town of Iittala. Over the past century-plus it has expanded its remit to ceramics, lighting and tableware, and has collaborated with some of the greatest Finnish designers. Aalto’s seminal collection launched in 1936; Kaj Franck, renowned for his deep-blue tableware and glassware, joined the roster in 1952; and Timo Sarpaneva’s cast-iron casserole dish hit shelves in 1960. Iittala continues to produce these designs – probably because they’re as good as it gets. Artek, Kluuvi 23 Pohjoisesplanadi, 00100 Finnish frontrunner +358 (0)20 439 3501 iittala.com Artek is the homeware brand started by Alvar Aalto (see page 98), his first wife Aino, Kruuna, Kruununhaka Papershop, Punavuori art collector Maire Gullichsen Mid-century one-offs Fresh pages and art historian Nils-Gustav Hahl. And since you can’t take Shops selling vintage Iittala The idea for Papershop came Finlandia Hall back with you, (opposite) are a dime a dozen about when sisters Tea Yrjölä this is the place to get your in Helsinki but if you’re after and Anna Fryckman noticed Aalto memento. You’ll find hidden Finnish treasures head a dearth of decent stationery handmade wooden furniture, to Kruuna. Co-owner Pasi shops in the Finnish capital. graceful drinks trolleys, floor Pusa (pictured) sells designs Enough with the tatty notepads lamps and more. from the 1940s to 1960s and and cheap birthday cards from Many of these pieces have traverses the country to source the petrol station – they wanted become icons of Finnish the right pieces. thoughtful, well-designed paper design, including Aalto’s Here you’ll find a 1940s goods for every occasion, Stool 60 from 1933 and the armchair by Carin Bryggman, sentiment and need. ziggurat-like Angel Wing lamp original furniture by the Browse the own-brand from 1954. Over the years, great Eero Aarnio, ceramics wrapping paper, the colourful Artek has also collaborated from Friedl Holzer-Kjellberg notepads, the beautiful with some of the world’s top and lamps by Paavo Tynell, prints and a plethora of other designers, including – but not whose fixtures adorn the UN goodies – all accentuated limited to – the Bouroullec headquarters in New York. by the building’s original brothers, Tapio Wirkkala and Also, ask to see Pusa’s vast red-tiled floor. If you’re after Konstantin Grcic. collection of vintage clothing, personalised pieces, keep an 1B Keskuskatu, 00100 which is frequently consulted eye out for the in-house printer. +358 (0)10 617 3480 and borrowed by fashion 18 Fredrikinkatu, 00120 artek.fi designers and film-makers. +358 (0)45 359 9319 8-12 Maurinkatu, 00170 papershop.fi +358 (0)40 550 9001 kruuna.fi

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Karhu, Kamppi Johanna Gullichsen, Finarte, Punavuori Step back in time Kaartinkaupunki Magic carpets Steadfast style Established in 1916, Karhu is Finns have a long-standing love the pioneer of modern trainers, Johanna Gullichsen’s distinct for rugs; they’re often ornately creating air-cushioning support chequered pattern is a design patterned and passed down long before the big sports staple in Helsinki. The Finnish from generation to generation. brands. The original logo textile designer learned her Since 1985, Finarte has been used to be three stripes but trade in Porvoo Crafts School bringing a modern twist to the owners sold the patent to before launching her label in classic Finnish floor covering, Adidas in the 1940s for two 1989. In the showroom you’ll with geometric patterns and bottles of whiskey and the find everything from curtains softer tones. equivalent of €1,600 (it must and cushion covers to wool and The company was started have been a wild night). The cashmere rugs. by Eija Rasinmäki and Erkki current “M” insignia is said to Gullichsen has a very Immonen and is now run originate from the fact that only specific colour palette too, by their daughter, Larissa Finnish Olympic champions sticking to yellows, blues and Immonen (but mum remains – that is, mestari – could once soft greys. You can be sure on the roster of designers, who wear the brand’s shoes, though that these textiles will never number seven). Our pick is the today everyone is welcome. look dated in your home; chequered Mombasa. Karhu re-emerged a decade they’re simply classics. It’s 3 Pursimiehenkatu, 00150 ago, with the new proprietors refreshing to come across +358 (0)40 701 0913 bringing back the colourful, a brand that doesn’t follow finarte.fi comfy and old-school designs. fads in an endless attempt Lasipalatsi, to please buyers. 22-24 Mannerheimintie, 00100 Company × Salakauppa, 1 Erottajankatu, 00130 +358 (0)45 668 5737 Punavuori and Kluuvi +358 (0)9 637 917 karhu.com Treasure hunters johannagullichsen.com

South Korean Aamu Song and Finland native Johan Olin Marimekko, Kluuvi (both pictured) met while Seeing a pattern studying at Aalto University. The two designers bonded Marimekko defies categories over their love for traditional (really, it could belong in any handicrafts and set out on an section of this chapter). A epic journey across the world. textile-maker, a fashion icon, Collaborating with craftspeople a homeware specialist and an in Finland, Russia, Japan and aesthetic in its own right, the beyond, they create artisanal label started in 1949. toys, clothes and the occasional Together with a group of homeware piece with a modern young artists, Armi Ratia twist. “It’s a fantastic excuse started producing bold, to travel,” says Song. colourful textiles through Drop by the duo’s workshop her husband Viljo’s printing (pictured) for a chance to learn company. The look didn’t catch about their craft over a cup on until 1951, when fashion of tea but note that it has designer Riitta Immonen irregular opening hours as turned Ratia’s patterns into they’re often away. You can a fashion line – which sold also pick up all the designs out immediately. All fabrics at the kiosk, which runs like continue to be printed in clockwork, near Helsinki Helsinki and Marimekko Central Station (see page 112). still makes womenswear that Workshop: 10 Laivurinkatu, emanates mid-century charm. 00150 1 Mikonkatu, 00100 Kiosk: 1 Postikatu, 00100 +358 (0)50 572 5632 salakauppa.fi marimekko.com

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Bookshops Vintage shopping Literary gems C Hagelstam Antikvariaatti, Nide, Kamppi Kamppi Independent hotspot Homes in Helsinki once Old master abounded with vintage design With large windows, lots of pieces, whether from Iittala Since 1977 this has been the natural light and a massive or by Alvar Aalto. This means city’s foremost purveyor of inventory of the finest print there’s plenty of stock so rare books – and founder Cecil publications, from novels to picking up an old-school Hagelstam still runs it today. books on art and architecture, gem is relatively easy The suitably storied interior is this is everything you’d and surprisingly affordable. decked with all the trimmings want from an independent of wisdom: a stuffed owl here, bookshop. Nide has emerged 01 Bisarri, Ullanlinna: a bust of Dante there. as the leading hangout for This little shop specialises You’ll find first editions Finnish bookworms after the in glassware, particularly of 20th-century literature, sad decline of the much-loved tableware by Kaj Franck, vintage Finnish posters, Academic Bookstore. glass art by Oiva Toikka original postcards by Tove Co-owner Terhi Jääskeläinen and vases by Timo Jansson, historic maps, and (pictured, left) used to run the Sarpaneva (you’ll find fine art and architecture books bookshop at the Museum of a few vintage versions (come here if you want to learn Contemporary Art Kiasma of the latter’s renowned more about design icons such (see page 88). We suggest casserole pot too). as Alvar Aalto). Besides the leafing through something by bisarri.fi antiquated stuff, there’s also a Helsinki’s best independent 02 Fasaani, Ullanlinna: top selection of regular books publisher, Cozy, or delving into An enormous treasure and a good range of English- some of the indie magazines. trove of everything from language novels. 35 Fredrikinkatu, 00120 vintage clothing to garden 35 Fredrikinkatu, 00120 +358 (0)50 460 0337 furniture, as well as +358 (0)9 649 291 nidekauppa.fi mid-century ceramics cecilhagelstam.com and glassware from renowned designers. 5 Korkeavuorenkatu, Arkadia International 00150 Bookshop, Etu-Töölö 03 Art.fi, Punavuori: Settle in Art.fi has a curated and rarefied selection. The best bookshops are Expect floor lamps by about people as much as Paavo Tynell, mid-century publications. Unlike many paintings by the likes of second-hand bookshops Risto Suomi, and even that are fussy and piled high traditional Finnish carpets with dusty tomes, Arkadia from the 18th century. has space for armchairs. art.fi Visitors are encouraged to kick back and peruse prospective purchases, and the space also hosts regular talks and I’ve nearly Finnished events. “We consider the shop our home,” says owner Ian Bourgeot. The shelves are stacked with everything from French philosophy to Finnish culture. This is the place to find a one- off title or something special for a book lover. 11 Nervanderinkatu, 00100 +358 (0)40 532 7296 arkadiabookshop.fi

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