Cycling the Trail of an Engelandvaarder
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
2 1 ¡ The route goes right past for the Wall. Villa Sandhaghe Cycling the trail of the Binnenhof court, which (Hoge weg 18) was also Who was the Soldier of is a perfect opportunity claimed by the Germans and Orange an Engelandvaarder for taking a look inside the set up as a command centre Erik Hazelhoff Roelfzema courtyard (see route). The for the German Schnellboote. was born on Java (Indo- court is the historic heart of At 7 metres deep, a tunnel nesia) in 1917 and in the Netherlands politics, where was dug from the house to 1930s his family moved several scenes of the film the bunker in the garden. to Wassenaar. During Soldier of Orange were shot. his studies in Leiden he A plaque at Hofpoort gate, ¢ Many defences were became involved in the behind the Ridderzaal hall, taken down after the war, resistance movement. He reminds us of the England but at Badhuisweg a bunker fled to London, where he Spiel, the deadly ‘game’ was dug out and changed set up an intelligence net- between the German occu- into a museum (www. work, after which he be- pier and Dutch intelligence atlantikwallmuseum.nl, came a pilot and an aide agents including Erik Hazel- limited opening times). You to Queen Wilhelmina. He hoff Roelfzema. can get to the museum by has written a book about turning left at the cross- his wartime adventures ¤ Halfway Nassaulaan, ing with Badhuis weg and called Soldier of Orange. look left into Sophialaan continuing along the road for with square Plein 1813 at 500 m. You can then see the the end. This square was the bunker on your right. Entrance gate of Oranjehotel, backdrop of a famous scene the prison at Scheveningen in the film: leading actors Rutger Hauer and Jeroen Krabbé, dressed in tuxedos, racing across the square with German fighter planes flying over. The 1977 film, directed by Paul Verhoeven, is based on the book (1971) written by Erik Hazelhoff Roelfze- Bunker near Scheveningen ma. The film launched the international careers of the director and the two actors. £ During World War II The story of the Soldier of Orange has been told many times: in a book, film (1940-1945) the Germans and musical. The leading character is Erik Hazelhoff Roelfzema (1917-2007), an built the Atlantic Wall, a de- Engelandvaarder (England sailor) and a member of the Dutch resistance during fence line along the Western World War II. The cities of Leiden and Scheveningen also play an important part European coastline. Many in the story, and these happen to be at the edges of the very diverse dune area bunkers, barricades and Duin, Horst & Weide. So just get on your bicycle and follow the trail of the Soldier tank moats were built in The of Orange along the coastline, dunes, meadows, country estates and old cities. Hague, where 135,000 people The trail is 55 kms but includes shortcuts. were evicted to make way 2 § Scheveningen plays an In the winter of 1941-1942, ¶ After Scheveningen, the ∞ The medieval-looking At the beginning of the war, dorper vlakte (see 1^). Cycling important part in the Soldier he took several trips by fast route meanders through the gate is part of Scheveningen Erik Hazelhoff Roelfzema towards Scheveningen, you of Orange story. After his English navy motorboat beautiful Meijendel dune prison, which was referred was held prison here for will pass a small gate in the release from the Oranjehotel, to transport transmission area. As a young boy, Erik to as Oranjehotel during a week. Although he was prison wall. To the convicted Erik got on a ship and fled to equipment to Scheveningen. would often wander through World War II. Many resistance released, many resistance prisoners going through this England, where he set up an A plaque on the Kurhaus this large wildlife area. After fighters were locked up and fighters were sentenced to gate, it marked the beginning intelligence network to ope- hotel railing reminds us of all, the house where he interrogated at this prison. death and executed at Waals- of their final chapter. De Pan rate from the Netherlands. these trips. grew up is located on the inner edge of the dune area Groot Berkheide 99 Leiden (see 1%). Go up to one of the A44 START 16 dune viewpoints to enjoy the E 8 E 41 wonderful panorama. 10 Valkenburgse 07 86 Z Meer Leiden 79 Ganzenhoek De Klip D 11 12 • Although there are many R Meeuwenhoek 43 48 49 bunkers hidden underneath O Lange Pan Maaldrift Rijn the dune sand, the bat O Kikkerberg bunker near Wassenaarse A 47 53 N 9 START 50 02 Slag is clearly visible. You De Vink Wassenaar can get to it by turning left towards the beach at bicycle Oostduinen 51 point 41. A sign now marks 7 52 Den Deijl this bunker inhabited by Kijfhoek bats. A monument near the 40 Voorschoten 77 03 Sparregat roundabout down the road commemorates six French 14 commandos that died during Meijendel 15 Voorschoten 90 91 a landing on the beach in B 92 08 1944. 44 46 57 13 Oostduinpark 55 START ª A well-known name at 39 54 16 85 Wassenaar is amusement 6 51 88 park Duinrell. In 1935 count N44 84 86 Westeinde Philip van Zuylen van 36 Uilenbos Scheveningen 5 35 93 Nijevelt opened his estate 83 34 94 to the public. At that time, 4 it was not much more than 82 84 a tea garden with some 38 3 17 33 95 Vogelplas 37 Den Haag Starrevaart Start 98 • Hotel De Gouden 32 18 96 % StompwijkThe trail starts at The Hague Leeuw (the golden lion), Mariahoeve 99 Sorghvliet Length Central train station.26 Veurseweg 180, Haagse 19 A4 Bos Leidschendam The total cycling trail is Alternative points of 2252 AG Voorschoten 2 Haagse Hout 81 25 START 56 55 km long but includes departure are: • Car park Berkhei at 29 78 optional shortcuts through • Leiden Central train Berkheistraat, 0 1 km 30 Den Haag 1 Centraal Meijendel and Wassenaar. station Wassenaar 3 one-week imprisonment at the German Wehrmacht monument consisting of the Oranjehotel. army took command of the four crosses. It commem- Book, film and musical Tip: Walk past the right-hand mobilisation site. orates the more than 250 Millions of Dutch people side of the Academy Building resistance fighters which have learned about the to the beautiful botanical 1$ The narrow, some- were executed here by the Soldier of Orange story garden Hortus botanicus times unpaved streets at Germans. via the book, film or musi- (www.hortusleiden.nl). Wassenaar are part of the cal. Although the film and Land goederenroute (estates 1& In the woods to the right the musical stay as close 1@ Erik’s student room is route). This route meanders of the cycling trail you can to the storyline as possi- at no. 56, diagonally across along estates and stately see the estates Oosterbeek ble, there are still clear the Academy Building and homes built by regents and and Clingendael (follow differences. For example, right above the entrance merchants from the 16th the cycling sign to Clingen- film director Paul Verhoe- of Café Barrera. Several century. From September dael to go there). At the ven changed the name of film scenes were shot here 1944, the Germans launched end of 1942, the Germans the leading character into as well, for example the hundreds of V2 rockets started building bunkers Erik Lanshof (portrayed famous scene where Esther from the The Hague area and tank barriers here. The by Rutger Hauer) while (Belinda Meuldijk) appears towards London. Many Clingendael stately home the next main character, half-naked at the window mobile launch installations became the residence of Guus LeJeune (portrayed to distract a German secu- were hidden in the estates’ government commissioner by Jeroen Krabbé), com- rity service agent (Rijk de woods. Seyss-Inquart, the represent- bines various individu- Erik Hazelhoff Roelfzema’s student room is right above the pub entrance Gooyer). ative of nazi Germany in the als from the book. The 1% After their return from Netherlands. His command musical follows a group playground equipment. hangar on the north end of 1# Time for a break? The the Netherlands East Indies, bunker, camouflaged as a of Erik’s student friends Disaster struck on 12 May the field. Just as the film, this outdoor cafés along Voor- the Hazelhoff Roelfzema farm, can still be seen at the who, because of the war, 1940: nervous Dutch soldiers musical was based on Erik straat at Voorschoten are family first settled in the end of Wassenaarseweg. are forced to make essen- accidentally killed the count Hazelhoff Roelfzema‘s book very inviting. The setting of Hague and then at Park tial decision about good on his own estate. (see box). ancient house fronts and De Kieviet (Duinweg: take a 1* At the beginning of the and bad. grand linden trees must be sharp right turn at the end war, Queen Wilhelmina 1) In 1939, the construction 1! Leiden city centre seems very similar to how it was of Berkenlaan). After the war, stayed at stately home of Vliegkamp Valkenburg to have never lost its charm. at the beginning of the war. Erik emigrated to America Paleis Huis ten Bosch for was started north of Oost- This certainly goes for During the mobilisation in and spent the last years of several days. The Germans dorperweg. This airfield Rapen burg, where Erik spent 1939, an encampment was his life in Hawaii, where he then planned to demolish was not yet finished when most of his student life.