1 © Derek Marshall Access Arrangements The Alicedale boulders are on private land. The farmer has been so kind to allow us to boulder on his land, but he has requested that anybody bouldering at Alicedale contact him before going onto his property. Contents Please contact Derek 083 681 8713 [email protected] Area 1 Page 7 for access details. Area 2 Page 42 Area 51 Page 62 Area 3 Page 70 Area 4 Page 78 Area 32 Page 80 Legal Note, Liability & Disclaimer All climbing is dangerous & always at your own risk. No responsibility for inaccurate or incomplete information will be accepted by the various contributors to this guide. The landowners accept no liability at all. Climbers take full responsibility for themselves at all times.

It took consistent effort, time, work & organization to get this guide ready for your pleasure! All the information & photographs are Copy Righted. You are more than welcome to download, e mail, view & print out this guide in its unchanged format, with logos & all information intact. This guide may not be uploaded to a web site other than Take note of the following basics: www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za. without written permission. 1. Please be mega polite & don’t inconvenience the farmer in any way. 2. Please don’t make fires, litter, play music or do anything stupid. 3. Please don’t touch the Bushman paintings at all. Accommodation 4. Please don’t damage the fence as you climb over it. The owner of the bouldering at Alicedale hires out a really nice old farmhouse. This is the recommended accommodation. 5. Please don’t damage plants or interfere with wild or domestic animals. 2 Thanks & Acknowledgements

Big thanks to the owners, Mr & Mrs Nel, who have allowed generations of boulders onto their land. Without their charitable spirit Alicedale would be dead. Thanks guys! Salute & Big-Up!

Martin Renz, who discovered many of the areas & boulders, opened

many of the problems & writing up the original guide. Alicedale bouldering would not be what it is with out Martin Renz.

Dave Harding, Alli & Mike Dexter who added some problems,

edited the guide & kept Alicedale ticking from 2012.

Dave Harding for red-penning the guide, edits, star gradings,

corrections & additions.

Adam Ondra who visited for a single day in 2009, opened the

hardest lines & pushed Alicedale to the next level. Star Ratings

 Classic problem

 Great problem

 Good problem

Abbreviations & Symbols

BS Bum Start

SS Stand Start

l Highball - high / dangerous l Lowball - small / low

Project + approximate grade 1 ~7A © Derek Marshall 3 General

Rock: Quartzite-sandstone mix. 845 problems. 38 noted projects that have been attempted. Lots of potential.

Summer: Very hot, but you can climb in the shaded areas in Area 2 or early mornings and later afternoons. Winter: Winter is the ideal season. Better friction, dry & less ticks. Rain: It may be raining in PE or Grahamstown, but there is a good chance of being dry in Alicedale.

Hazards:  Ticks are a real problem. Check yourself continuously & bring insect repellent.  Bees. Alicedale bees are aggressive, avoid them totally. Listen carefully & try to hear them coming. If they swarm, leave your shit & run for you life. Seriously! Hives can have 50 000 bees, it only takes 200 stings to kill a person.  Snakes, very few snakes have been seen, but keep an eye out. Spiders, scorpions…no big issue, but be aware.

Walk-ins: 5 - 40 minutes

© Derek Marshall 4 Eastern Cape Climbing Venues

Port Elizabeth 30 Coombs Gorge 37 EL urban crags & boulders Toorberg Swartberg 1 Lady's Slipper Amatolas 38 Yellowsands & Inkwenkwezi 44 Graff-Reinet 49 Toverkop 2 Van Stadens 31 Fort Fordyce 39 Lalapanzi 45 Compassberg 50 Oudtshoorn 3 PE urban crags & boulders 32 Hogsback 40 Morgan Bay Transkei 51 Gamkaskloof Bouldering 4 Sleepy Hollow 33 Stutterheim 41 Bola 46 Hole in the Wall 52 Swartberg Pass 5 Elands River Langkloof Winterberg 47 Hill of Execution 6 Kirkwood 19 Nguniland 42 Mary & Martha 48 Port St Johns 7 Cape St Francis 20 Kouga Wildernes 43 Hangklip Groot Winterhoek 21 Uniondale Pass 8 Tygerhoek Garden Route Aliwal North 9 Naga's Kloof 22 Titzikama N2 10 Eagle Gorge 23 Groot Rivier 11 Momentum Gorge 24 Piesang Valley 12 Pinnacle Gorge East London Mthatha 13 Cockscomb 34 NSA Middelburg 14 Grootbos & Kleinbos 35 Windmill Hole 47 48 Port St Johns 15 Nivera 36 Buffalo River N10 43 45 Queenstown Coffee Bay Baviaans Tarkastud 42 46 Nieu Bathesda 16 Grips Cradock N6 17 Kudu Kaya 41 Stutterheim 44 Graff-Reinet 33 18 Waterkloof 32 39 Hogsback Grahamstown 40 31 38 25 Alicedale N9 R63 King Williams Town 26 Howison's Poort Fort Beaufort N2 34-37 15 East London 27 Moodie's Alicedale R67 25 30 28 Bouldering Willowmore Steytlerville 29 R329 Grahamstown 28 29 Thornkloof 26-27 18 8-14 52 R75 51 6 49 50 R322 17 16 N2 Uniondale Hankey Uitenhage ©Derek Marshall R62 21 20 Patensie Ladismith R62 19 4 2 1 Oudtshoorn 3 Port Elizabeth 23 24 22 5 More route guides can be found on N2 Plettenberg Bay 7 Jeffreys Bay www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za

5 History The boulders at Alicedale were discovered by Keith James & “the cronies”. These were the is Nothing and Nothing is Everything, opened by Kevan. Very soon problems like dark days before bouldering was-a-thing. Keith spent some time there doing easy Rumble in the Jungle, Spirit and Beached Whale were born. Again there are too many solos & various circuits. At the end of 2000, Kevan Watkins, Shaun Miles and Martin brilliant moments to list here. You will not be disappointed by the boulders in Renz heard of some potential bouldering outside Alicedale on a farm called Witteklip. Alicedale. They took a drive out there & on that day went straight past the bouldering areas. They didn’t see anything worth bouldering & headed for home. It was only a month Then in 2002 Paul Brouard arrived in Grahamstown to study. In a very short time he later that Martin Renz took another drive-by. This time he stopped & headed up the repeated all the existing “hard” problems & just as quickly add some harder problems, hill with a chalk bag, climbing shoes & a thin blue insulation mat. He had no idea what like: Straight Up Sit-start, Grey Matter Sit-start and Fat Fanny Freedom… just to he would find & had no expectations. He was not disappointed, in fact that first mention a few. After Martin adamantly stated that the sit-start to Straight Up was afternoon was overwhelming & deciding where to start was a freak-out. So after totally impossible. Paul very quickly correcting him by grabbing two scratches on the calming himself down the Real-German in Martin decided to start on one side & rock and pulling the first moves. With a monstrous grin he turned and said ´Where is systematically work his way across....yeah right! First Time Out, as the name says, is your vision?´ this became the rally cry of Alicedale. home to the first problem in the area. Martin returned three more times before he managed to drag Kevan Watkins out. Needless to say Kevan was also freaked-out 2009 saw Adam Ondra visit Alicedale for a day & put Alicedale on the 8A map. when he saw the boulders. Very quickly problems like as FÝ2K, Pulling Babes, Extra Mild Shag & Side Winder were opened. They were hooked! Countless days were Since then there have been plenty of visits to Alicedale by various Rhodes University spent running around, exploring & opening new problems. students, most notably Dave Harding, Mike & Aly Dexter.

Remembering all the highlights is impossible, but some memorable moments were Martin’s In 2016 the bumbling scribe made various edits to the guide & realized that there are still first ascent of Dungeons & Dragons, Straight Up and more recently Side FX & Anime. plenty of un-recorded problems at Alicedale. The guide was systematically reworked, Kevan´s first ascents of Chasing the Dragon, Wicked & Pinky on the Brain. At the end up graded, condensed & a surprising number of previously overlooked problems were of 2001 the basic feeling was that all the cool problems were done. Boulderers had recorded. More than 250 problems were added in 2017 & 3 areas were added in often noted the rocks peeping out of the bush 500m meters towards Grahamstown. 2018. Eventually curiosity got the best of Martin. On a rest day he drove out to Alicedale, parked & made his way into the bush. He was staggered… MORE BOULDERS!! Lots This Alicedale guide is a work in progress. Please send any additions or corrections to of them !! The following day Area Two was born. [email protected] After two more outings alone, Kevan decided to join Martin & see what the fuss was about. The first boulders that attracted Martin became two of the hard problems, Everything © Derek Marshall 6 Bleau (P 33) New World Bad Day Side FX Tower (P 34) (P 30) (P 31) (P 32)

Dungeon High (P 37) Painted Baller Path starts (P 27) Light (P 36) at black box House on pole. (P 35) Park here. Ballerina (P 24) Pinky (P 29)

Welcome Haunted (P 23) (P 8)

Ship Wreck (P 10)

Falling Raisins Path into (P 20) Flying First Time Saucer, (P 11) Area 51 Panic (P 20) Kingdom Candy Wow Anime Cave Land’s End of Slab (P 19) (P 13) (P 14) (P 16) (P 17) © Derek Marshall 7 7A 8

11 Welcome 3/4/5 7B+ 10 6B 5B 1 9 5C 5 5C 12 © Derek Marshall Derek © 6A 6C 8 4 6C 7A+ 5B 4 7 3 B B 6C+ 2 To 7A+ B First Time 5 G 6B 6 Bees C 4/5 = 6B  3 6B 2 F Bees Welcome  B 6B D C 1  6C Shipwreck 4 in in - B A E Walk from road from 5C 1 A 5 8 6C+ 7 C To Ballerina 6B+ 6 . line. 5A 5 line. - start start for the short. Straight Straight Up. - out out through bulge using using the crack - 5B l out. top 4 - & R l R. R R & 6C 3 on on arête. Climb straight up. crimp in crack. Climb through crimp in crack. Climb through the roof. & L 6C+ side. side. Climb & R & R 2 pull pull Straight Straight Up. LH LH e 6C 3 on on low sid crimp on on crimp arête 6C+ 2 R L with with on good hold. Climb up and slightly on good holds on on crimpsfar back in cave. Climbup with on crimp. Climbstraight up open book BS BS BS BS Start Start as 3 and end as SS on good holds, climbup & L, then top SS on good holds then straight out. SS on huge hold then climbstraight up. SS if you are tall. Jump if you are meduim. Run SS on bad hold on the L. Finishes the same as SS on good hold on the corner, then go way up to slopey crimp. BS on wide side pulls. Bump to top out. BS below prominent break. Up the break. BS BS BS, climbstraight up the arête. BS up into rail crack, railL, round the corner. BS to L of open book, directly up. SS, climbup good holds. SS on jugs, then climb diagonally along the crack SS on jugs, up diagonal break. SS, climbsthe RH arête. BS on good hold & climb directly out via big hold. BS on good hold & climb direct up using crimpson the slab. BS on side pulls. Traverse L, then top out. BS on good holds further R, then climbs into & finishes the same as 2. SS in the open book. Climbdiagonally up and R. 6B 5 7A 7A 6B 6A 5B 7A 5B 5B 5A 6B 6B 6B 6B 6C 5C 5C 5C 6C 6C 6A+ 7A+ 7A+ 7B+ 6B+ 6C+ 6C+ 6C+ 1       up One up Two - -  Splat Splat Dab None None of Your Bee’s Wax Obviously Oblivious Oversight Perception In Your Face Wicked Wicked Valkyraja Straight Assis Straight Up Passing Time Crimp Crimp Wimp Pulling Babes Pulling Babes (ext) Pulling Babes Straight Up High Life Genocide Warm Side Winder Wind Her Up Warm Slam Beam Beam Me Up Extra Mild Shag Going Out With a Bang Silent War 5 6 7 2 3 4 1 9 6 7 8 3 4 5 1 2 6 7 8 3 4 5 1 2 12 10 11 A C B A To First Time Welcome 9 G Bees =  6A © Derek Marshall Derek © 7 F Welcome 6C B 3 D C  Shipwreck in in - A E Walk from road from E G E To Ballerina 4 6A+ 1 G 2 4 2 F 6C 1 5B 3 6B+ 1 5 4 5 2 5B 6A 5 2 . l 6A 6 6A Backbreaker 7 . ers p Finish as slop G 5 1 G l l l climb through climbthrough overhang. climb straight climbstraight out using , , D C on on jugs, directly up. BS on crimp&heel hook. Directly through the blank section. BS on jugs, directly up. BS on flat rail, directly up. BS far R, around the corner. Rail L as low as possible. At the flat railmove up & top out. BS on flat rail, traverse L with heel hooks allthe way around the nose. At the back top out before the trees. BS, under lowball boulder. Crouch start in rail, jump to jug. Top out directly. BS in rail, move out R onto blunt arête. SS, LH on arête, into under cling, Straight out, don’t use side boulders. SS, up middle of smallface on poor sloppers. SS, up on arête. SS in tiny open book, move R into rail,fly for horrid slopper. Start on lower bulge Start on good holds BS on jugs, directly up. BS BS on block, railR on jugs, under the nose & round the corner. 7A 6C 6 3 5 5 4 4 5 5B 5B 6A 6A 6A 6C 6C 6C 6A+ 6B+ 7A+ 6C+  6A+ 7A+ 7  4 Naked Naked Wisdom Battle Shits Heel Hookers Backbreaker Backbreaker Shame & Desire Wrath of the Sword Warriors Code Honor Geoff’s Geoff’s Roof Monkey Brain Brain Hemorage Power To the People Lower Backbreaker Doom‘s Doom‘s Day Master Apocalyptic Fantasy Mind Feed Minefield 7 4 5 6 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 6C+ 6 F F E D G 10

To To Shipwreck First TimeFirst Bees = 6B+ 3  Kev’s Kev’s © Derek Marshall Derek © Boulder 7A+ 2 Welcome 7A 1 C B Kev’s Boulder Shipwreck  A Falling Falling Raisins Ballerina 5 4 width. C - 5B 3 4 2 . L 5B 1 out out by going slightly - top & . . . out - out - top top & B L L & pulls at the scoop. - 7B 2 7A 1 top top out. & back back of the cave. Climbout of cave ledge, ledge, up L. corner corner climbthrough overlap 5C 6 RH slopper Grey Grey Matter. limb the limbthe grey slab using side climb arête climbarête on on smallholds, make a move up in little hollow. Climbstraight up using crimps on using using good hold at base of arête. on the LHS BS BS BS BS on layaways at edge of smooth section. BS & up easy jug section. BS on arête just L of wide crack. BS on RH arête. SS, BS SS on BS BS on jug side pull at back of cave. Climbout using the off width &the chock stones in the off BS to R of rock, up moving a bit L. SS, c BS to 4 5 7A 5B 5B 5B 7A 6B 7A 7B 5C 7A+ 6B+ 6B+ 7A+  6B ssis 5  A Negitave 5B 3   7A 4 Kev Kev 1 Kev 2 Kev 3 Tainted Tainted Metal Grey Grey Matter Grey Matter Assis Black Hand Walking the Shadows Boomslang Shipwreck Shipwreck Positive Negative Roof Soriavo Dream World 1 2 3 4 1 2 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 6B+

7A+ 1

B C A 2 Boulder

Shipwreck A Kev‘s Shipwreck To Anime A

C 10 B First Time 2 A 4 6 1 7 8 9 A 3 5 D

1 The Villain of This Story 5A SS, directly up. Kev’s Boulder 2 Perfect Dark  6A+ SS hands on ledge, up moving L to grab a R trending edge, top out over point.

3 FY2K  7A BS on crimps on the arête. Climb the arête & top-out.

4 Project BS as for FY2K. Traverse R then top out. Welcome 5 Nightfall  7A+ BS on crimps. Climb the face straight up.

A 6 In Plain Sight 6A Crouch start on good hold. Climb straight up & top out slightly L. 7 Throne of Games 5C Crouch start on good hold. Rail R under the roof, then out in the open book on the R. Welcome 8 First Timer  5C BS under the little roof. Climb straight out.

9 Star of Fate 5A BS then up the open book on the R.

10 Never Say Die  5B BS on the far R, rail L and out of the corner roof, then top out over the next small roof. Walk-in from road 11 Give Me Something More  5C BS on rail, traverse R under roof. Out over the arête. l

12 Dricus 5 BS under roof, dirtectly out on arête. l 1 No Mind 6A SS at the bush. Climb up & slightly right. Top out via the slab. l B

2 Mindful 6A Crouch start on good holds in the corner. Climb up & L. Top out as No Mind. l First Time First

12 11

A B 1 2

© Derek Marshall 11 First Time 12 To Anime First Time A C © Derek Marshall Derek © B D Kev’s Boulder 4 Welcome in in - Welcome 3 Walk from road from 2 1 D C l 8 7 l l l l 6 l l l Two Two Pad Guy. 5 descript descript easy ramp. - Lie Lie start under the roof with hand on the lip. Climbstraight up. BS, up easy arb ramp. BS, up easy ramp. BS, directly up non BS in jugs under smalloverhang. Directly up. SS, jump to horn, then directly up. SS below high crack. Directlyup. SS, climbthe face 1m L of Climbthe crack lines L of the blank face. SS. Climbsthe blank face. FA Adam Ondra 2009. SS on side pull, up shallow recess below fat crack. Climbsthe fat crack & features. 4 4 4 5 5 7A 6B 6B 5C 5C 6C 7C 6A+ 3   2   1 Give Give In to Yourself Worry & Shame No More Levitation Levitation 2 Marshall Law Kev’s Crack Good Day to Wake Up Let the Anger Start To Brew Closing Closing In Not Afraid To Loose Traveler Two Pad Guy 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 1 2 3 4 D C A B

1 2 9 8 11 10 12

4 3 7 6 5

1 Who is Joe 6A Start as Hey Joe. Climb up & R of small bush.

2 Hey Joe 6A Crouch-start on low holds. Climb up & L via blank section.

3 When Reach Fails  6B Start on low under-cling crimps then climb straight up using good side-pull.

A 4 The Grading Game  7A BS on good side pull for R & gaston for L. Climb up & R. Finish as When Reach Fails.

5 Tragedy of Comons 5 SS, up RHS of face. To Anime

6 Endless Forms Most Beautiful 5 SS, up middle of face.

7 Primal Birth 5 SS, up LHS of face. First 8 The Wedgey Maker 6C BS on low holds. Climb straight up. Time

9 Color of Chalk  6C Start on good holds. Traverse R & end as The Wedgey Maker.

B 10 Afterglow  7B BS on very low holds. Climb straight up.

11 Land's End Direct  7B+ Start as for Land’s End. Dyno from pocket to big hold. Finish as Land’s End. FA Adam Ondra 2009. D 12 Land's End  7A BS on good holds. Climb the arête. Kev’s Land‘s End Boulder C

Welcome

A Welcome

B Walk-in from road © Derek Marshall 13 B

1 3 1 A 2 A 2 3

1 Silent Winter  6A+ SS under middle of roof, through the roof & face above.

A 2 Scenery of Loss 5 SS, up crack break. To Slab 3 Pitfall  6B+ Awkward BS on lowest holds & climb through the bulge via crimps. F Kingdom

1 Drifting Endlessly 5 BS on nice jugs, up into jug rail, rail L & up slab. l Anime E D B 2 Love I lost 5C BS on crimp jugs, up slab. l C 3 Sorrow  5C SS directly up. l B 1 All I Wanna Do 5A BS in crack, rail R in diagonal crack. Continue around the corner & top out R. l A C 2 Ripple Effect 5A SS on good ripple. Climb straight up.

3 Will of the People 5B BS in crack. Up crack.

1 Duenan 6C+ BS on rock with good holds. Move R to jug & then up the face. RH arête is out of bounds.

D 2 Hibiki 6C+ Start as Duenan. Traverse R, under the roof & up the arête. First 3 Hanging by a Thread 7B BS on corner jugs. Climb diagonally R along the groove. No hands on the L arête. Time

To Land’s

2 End Anime 1 2

1 3 C C 3 D

© Derek Marshall 14 Anime 15 To Slab Slab To Kingdom D A C End © Derek Marshall Derek © To Land’s To Land’s First Time F E B Anime 6 5 4 3 2 . . Top R 1 . 11 arête . blunt blunt . up - . Claymore. out out via slab up - Climb the Climb the rounded and and finish R on on the L. . . At the last jug before the blank wall. Climb up & slightly R of of blank wall. Climbstraight over the bulge. Top er p L . . Traverse . . Climbstraight out. y. y. Move R & out through the roof. slop just . 9/10 jug on on crimp. Climbstraight up. crack on on the L. rail Vanguard of of & LH Spirited Spirited Away Spirited Awa arête arête R 7 8 , , move slightly L & of of line prominent prominent R up up the on on small crimp, hop to a bulging bulging blunt the the crack good good holds 1m RH on on small side pull the the ayback on on good holds around the corner. The big ledge out is of bounds on on big hold just with on on good holds on the corner. Traverse with both hands on good BS, l BS, up the crack system, but only using the boulder that makes up the RH side. LH boulder in totally out. BS SS up Start on BS on big hold just R of BS SS in easy crack break, traverse L under smallroof. BS, up the prominent layback crack. SS BS, RH BS out using the bulge. BA in jugs, directly up. BS in awesome pocket jugs, directly up. BS in railjugs, up over jugs & nice crimps. BS BS under 5 5 5 5B 7B 6B 7A 6B 6A 6C 5C 6A+ 7A+ 7B+ 7A+ 7A+ 7A+ 2    4  ssis Direct   A 5/6  Traverse  Yoki Yoki 5 3/4 Morning Sunshine Claymore Claymore Anime Anime Contrived Spirited Spirited Away Yoma Yoma Another Brick in the Wall Free ForAll Vanguard Hellsing Prometheus Hellsing Fester Vaginal Ties Elysian Night 2 5 6 1 2 3 4 7 8 9 2 3 4 5 6 1 10 11 D 1 F E Kingdom of Slab 16 D Cave To Candy Candy To D Anime First Time B A Slab Kingdom C B 7 C 6 5 4 B 2 1 3 1 2 1 B A l . l . L l . 8 via crimps R l . l l . l l up up the face l L l l slightly . l & . . Start on crimps. Climbup & slightly . . Climb straight up. on on good hold. Climbup & slightly . . Climbstraight up. , , but climbthe obvious crack line. of of the bushes. Climbstraight up the crack L Far Far Far Away Plebeian Slabian Old Mead Inn of of of of the arête. Climb straight up. of of of of R Jean Jean Pant R R R R 1.5m 1.5m 1m just 2m 2m at the crack line. Climbup . . Climbthe middle of the face . . Use any holds to climbup. . Climbstraight up between the dark streaks S S S BS, railR on jugs & heel hooks to top out. SS SS SS SS SS SS SS S Start as Start about 1m 3 6B 6A 5B 6B 6B 5B 6C 5C 5C 6C 6B+ 6C+ 7 2 ant ant P 1 6 Jean Jean Brown Sugar Assassin Exile Kicking Ass Padre Padre Slabian Old Mead Inn Jester Laughs Far Far Far Away Plebeian Kingdom Knight 5 5 6 7 8 1 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 A C B A A B

Wow

35C G 15 25 26A 15C D E F 1 Weaker Inside 5C SS, up recess to gain ledge, then directly up. l C B 37A+ B A 2 Path To Decay  6A BS in jam crack, traverse R on jug rail to where it ends. l Candy Cave 3 Deeper Inside 5C SS on edge of huge boulder, directly up. l 65C 1 Fade Away 5 BS on rail, traverse R, then up to top out on R. A 4 2 Getting Young 4 BS on rail, directly up. 37A+ 6C 5~7A+ B 7 BS on jugs. Climb R along the lip of the roof & across the 6A+ Candy Cave 3 7A+ roof. Climb R on downward trending rail, top-out on jugs on  B far R. Back must not touch the boulder behind you. Slab BS RH on side pull jug, LH on rail. Rail L on upward trending rail. Up through the roof & top out. Back must Kingdom 4 Crack Candy   6C not touch the boulder behind you. To Panic 5 Project ~7A+ BS low on crimp & side pull, then directly up. B 14

6 Moving in Stereo 5C SS on crimps, directly up. 106C 115B

7 The Whole Packet 6A+ SS on crimps, directly up. 13 8 Candy Corner 5C BS just R of arête. Up on jugs. 126A

9 Fast Forward Bar 5C SS, up break on good holds. Anime CandyCave 95C 10 Swiss Chocolate 6C BS on side pull jug. Climb up knobs to L pf crack system. 85C B 11 Cracker Candy 5B BS on side pull jug. Climb up crack break. 12 Salty Crack Candy 6A SS LH on side pull jug & RH on under palm. Out moving a bit R. B 13 Project ~7A SS on crimp & mono-pocket. Directly up.

14 Project ~7B Climb up the thin crack & blunt arête.

15 Too Little too Short 6B+ Climbs along the crack line & up good holds on the back of the boulder. 156B+ 16 Candies 5 SS up the easy line, top out.

17 14 000 Kilowatts 4 SS, up the crack. 195 14 16 17 185 18 Off your Rocker 5 SS, up on jugs & rails. B 5 4

19 Knock You Off 5 SS, up rails & break to top out. © Derek Marshall 17 C C

Wow

26A 57A+ 1 16B+ 26C 5 G 4 37B+ 6B+ D E D F C B 1 Raven Age 5 BS on jugs, directly up. Candy Cave 2 Rise & Resist 6A SS on crimps, directly up.

C 3 All this Women about Talk  7B+ BS on arête. Climb straight up & slightly R via sloppers. A 4 Talking about a Girl 6B+ BS with LH in crack & R on fair hold. Climb straight up. Starting with both hands in crack makes it 6C.

5 Connect the Donkeys 7A+ BS on fair hold. Climb the bulging arête.

1 A Different Story  6B+ BS on big holds. Climb the face. 1 D 5 2 Awkward State of Mind  6C BS. Climb the RH corner. Slab Kingdom E 1 Coming Home 5 BS on L, rail R until you have to top out. l

F 1 My Spirit is Free 6A BS, LH in crack rail & RH on pinch. Low ball moves & top out. l E To Panic

1 All the way from Michigan  6A+ BS at tree. Traverse R. Top out just L of Morphological. l G

2 Morphological  8A BS on jug in roof. Climb straight out. FA Adam Ondra 2009. l Candy CaveCandy

Anime

16A

F

16A+ 28A G

© Derek Marshall 18 Wow 19 Cave Candy Candy D Wow A Anime © Derek Marshall Derek © C Slab Slab Kingdom C D B To Panic MP3 19 11 10 14 9 18 17 16 8 15 21 7 13/14 Wow 12 20 B 6 . 5 . of theof L l . . Moment of SilenceMomentof . 4 . out via open bookopen via out - &R . . . linetop finish as for for as finish out out - & Dyno to good rail. Top out. rail. Topgoodto Dyno l R& out via the bulgevia out . Climbup . - l . 3 . . Climbing the blank face just just face blank theClimbing . . . Top . &L l R. . out A &R - . Climb just past the block ontop Climb thejust past block . . L Trial &Error. Trial La vita Belle Itchy DingoItchy l of . . Top of of R R L &L Keep climbing the crack climbingthe Keep . Climb up . . . Purple Pimpernel Purple . Climb straight up &top up Climbstraight . rail traverse At good . Climb up straight pulls. Climb up pulls. - - of L 3/4 Intro 257Intro 257Intro Squeegee Squeegee l . 2 limb theslab on crimps. Climb straight up. Climbstraight crimps. on Climbthe arête arêteon up jug.Climbdiagonally on on ledge. Climb straight up Climbstraight ledge.on jug.Climbup on to goodcrimps on goodside on goodside on just goodholdon around the corner. Climb straight up theface up Climbstraight corner. the around out Climbstraight corner. little theroofjust around under 1m about BS BS SS ledge BS BS as Start as Start BS BS BS BS BS as Start as Start BS ball. High break. crack the easy SS,up &intorails crack. SS,up theon face Climbthe easy thejust face Climber BS SS,c 4 5 4 5+ 6B 7A 6A 7B 7A 6A 6B 6B 5C 6C 5C 7B+ 7A+ 6B+ 6A+ 6B+ 6C+  erse   Trav ingo D 1 MP3 La vitaBelle La WowDirect Silenceof Moment Enjoy Intro 257 Intro &Error Trial Wow The Simplicity Eater Meat Vegetarian Default Design Default DeckTop Itchy Pimpernel Purple Hurray Cane Hurray Star Little Meat are Vegetarians MyMeat Eat Kink in KinkmyVision Squeegee WindsHigh 7 8 9 5 6 3 4 1 2 20 21 18 19 16 17 14 15 11 12 13 10 A High Winds D C B A 1 Falling Raisins Assis  7A Crouch start on lower block. Climb through the roof & up the arête. l

2 Falling Raisins  6B+ SS on lower block. Climb through the roof & up the arête. l

3 Our Darkest Hour 5C SS on jugs, directly up. l

4 Freedom To Be Yourself 5C SS on jugs & crimps, directly up. l Panic

5 This is not Us 5 SS on jugs, up on chicken heads. l

6 Yeh Hum Naheen 5 SS, up the arête. l

7 Dried Apples 5A SS. Climb the crack line. l 2

8 Banana Chips 5A SS. Climb the face 2m L of Falling Raisins. l

9 Prunes 5A SS. Climb the face 3m L of Dried Apples. l 6 1 10 Water is My Vodka 6A SS, climb straight up. l Falling 11 Yogurt Bar 6A+ Climb the face 5m L of Water is My Vodka. SS, climb up the diagonal break. Raisins 5 4 3

Kev’s Boulder To First Time Shipwreck Ballerina

Welcome

  = Bees Falling Falling Raisins

11 10 2

9 1 8 7

© Derek Marshall 20 Panic 21 To Welcome Shipwreck D Haunted Falling Falling Raisins © Derek Marshall Derek © Panic A B To To Ballerina To To Area To Dungeon Painted Painted Side Side FX To Pinky 5 1 5C 2 6A 3 5 4 5C 5 5C 6 5 l 7 5C 8 6A 9 5 10 SS, up face. BS in crack, up the break. SS in crack, directly up. SS then into crack. SS on sloppy hold, up into short section of crack. SS with RH in crack, directly up. SS on rail,directly up. SS on jugs, directly up on jugs. BS in crack, up face. SS, up arête. BS in railjug, directly up. SS up into R trending crack. BS, up hand crack open book. Only use the crack. BS in smalloverhang on a rail, up the blunt arête. BS on railto L of arête, directly up. 5C 11 5 5 5 5 4 5 5 5 5C 6A 6A 5C 5C 5C 5C 4 12    5 5 14 13 5 15 Give It to Me One More Time MeMoreIt to One Give Joy& Comfort of Tidings EndIn The AganMeden Kill Kill Street ExcuseAn As Superiority Battlenet Dream Innocent Slaves of the Night the of Slaves Troyof GatestheAt WolfShe We FallUntil is Free Complexity Cry of The Sun Theof Cry MyWord 9 7 8 5 6 2 3 4 1 14 15 11 12 13 10 A A Panic 22 6C To Welcome Shipwreck 1 D Haunted Falling Falling © Derek Marshall Derek © Raisins Panic A B C To 6C+ 2 Ballerina + 6C To 3 Area To Dungeon Painted Painted Side Side FX To Pinky 7A 4 C BS on jug & horn on the LHS. Traverse R to the good jug in the corner. out Rail on the LHS of the overhang, onto the nose. Top out on the end of the nose. BS on good railon RHS of overhang. Traverse under the overhang to a good jug. Rail out on the LHS of the overhang, onto the nose. Top out on the end of the nose. 6B 6B+ l  5C 1 l 7B 2 .  isin L 6B 3 Railgun Railgun Aliens Aliens With Tiaras . 1 2 rête. rête. a to good to good hold. Make a huge move to another good hold. Top out straight up.

D

5A & R 4 Scifi . . Top out on good holds. on on good holds. The block underneath isin. out out via the face & L L & along along crimps. Top out on good holds. 6B 1 & L &L Scifi but but continue far , olds olds under the roof. Climbup h ey ey under cling. Climbup p Dark Dark Wave limb the limbthe face. on on good on good holds under the roof. Climbover the under the roof climbstraight up under the roof climb up the open book. The crack on the on slop on good holds. Climb up S, c S Start Start as SS SS SS, up slab rails. SS SS S S BS SS on diagonal side pull. Directly up. 1/2 ? 7A 7B 6B 5A 5C 6C 6C 6C+ 6C+    ?  5 6C 6 Dark Dark Throw Dark Wave Dark Wave Extension Don‘t Don‘t Panic Byzantine Hero Project Coolness of Shade Colour of Fear High High Definition Enema Enema of the People + 2 3 4 3 4 5 6 1 1 2 6B 2 B C B Haunted 23 3 4 To Welcome Shipwreck © Derek Marshall Derek © Raisin Falling Falling 5 Haunted B Panic A To Ballerina B To Area To Dungeon Painted Painted Side Side FX To Pinky 2 8 1 B 9 B 4 BS in awesome pockets, lots to choose from. Directly up. SS with LH on side pull pinch &RH in pocket. Directlyup. BS on jug, up into crack pinch, move L into jugs. SS with LH side pull. Directly up. SS with LH side pull. Directly up. BS on jug rail, up to LH side pull & then directly up. BS on crimp, directly up. SS, up break. BS on rail,directly up. 5 4 4 5 5 6A 6A 5C 5C 5C    6 7 Ghost Ghost of Christmas Past Spirited Defence Obsession Pick Pick YourPocket Ghost Pops Push Neil Push Spirit of Defiance The Drama is Real Banshee 7 8 9 3 4 5 6 1 2 B A B Bleau A 5 & 6

Side FX 2 Painted Area Falling Raisin 5 M K F D E 6 J Shipwreck 1 L C 2 A H G B 4 Ballerina B 1 3 A I

1 Some One Taller  6A Climb straight up the LH side. To Welcome

2 My Giant 5B Same start as Some One Taller , but half way up move R on big holds.

3 Dark Mutter 7A+ SS on tiny thin holds & somehow work your way up the middle of the blank slab. A 4 Broken Man 6B+ BS on fair hold & climb the arête.

5 Humpty 6A Climbs the small roof behind the big boulder. BS & climb L through the tiny roof. l

6 Dumpty 6A Start as Humpty, but climb right through the tiny roof. l

1 Thin Ballerina  7A SS on two very small crimps. Climb straight out. 2 B 2 Fat Ballerina  6C+ SS on the Arête. Climb straight out. BS in rail, up on rails, then B 3 Just Fat 6A BS on jug, move R & top out through the bulge. l 4 Let The Fire Burn 5C C top out. 1 Neal Hooker  6A BS on jugs, rail L on the lip, round the corner & top out before the tree. l 5 Down Fall 5C BS on jugs, up into rail, directly up.

C 2 The Essence of Sedition 5 SS on rail, directly up. 1 Certainty of Benevolence 5 BS on jug to R, rail L then pull through the roof. l

3 Diplomacy War for Pussies 4 SS on jugs, up the juggy break. D 2 Come September 5C BS on jug to R, rail L , around the corner & onto the face. l

3 Come Winter 5 SS on rail to L of arête. l

1 Dazzle Me 5 BS on crimps, out R. l E

2 Voices Within 5 BS on crimps, up L into crack. l Ballerina

5 2 2 1 1 4 1 3 2 3 C D E

© Derek Marshall 24 25 Raisin Falling Falling Ballerina Shipwreck K To Welcome 4 l Area Painted Painted © Derek Marshall Derek © E A D C Ballerina 1 I F B Side Side FX l J G K H I Bleau L BS on nice rail, directly up polished ramp. BS, up arête. BS & up the back. BS & pull directly through the very low roof. Quite fun. 5 5 5 6A 1 M K  G 1 Complexity Complexity Is Free Legend of White Snake Butter Fly love Dwarf Porn 2 1 2 3 4 H 3 K 2 1 1 . Make . Make a desperate move to R F in in the smallcrack. RH l 6 something something somewhere for your & l LH on on edge of the roof & l l LH LH 5 2 top top out. & er l p slop 4 J under under smallroof with BS on jug, up onto ridge arête & top out. BS on crimps, up under roof to top out. BS in low cave, directly out. BS SS in rail. Up over slanting rails. BS on side pull in crack &slopper with the LH. Start on smallside pull for your the big BS in crack on the other side the cave. Rail L into jams& awkward moves to top out. The boulder behind is in. BS in R trending rail,move out R, then over the peak. SS into jutting jug, up ramp using under cling rail. In the crevasse at the back, BS, directly out. BS in crack, out through the roof. SS in side pulls, up on rails. 5 5 5 5 5 6A 7B 6A 6A+ 7A+ 6B+ 6B+ 3   2   s s Problem ´ 1 1 Dassie Dassie Secrets Dassie’s Magnificent Icon for Hire Watch Me Fall Dwarf Cave Porn Project Paul Dassie Extravaganza I’m Dale Who The Fuck is Alice Clouds Clouds Defiance of Vampire Visionactica 3 1 1 1 2 4 5 6 1 2 1 2 3 J Vampire I J F H G Ballerina 26 Shipwreck Raisin Falling Falling © Derek Marshall Derek © To Welcome 5 Area Painted Painted E A D C 6 Ballerina F B Side Side FX J G M K H I Bleau L M 3 l l l l l l l 4 M BS on lowest part of ramp, up the ramp. SS on awkward crimp, directly out. BS in rail, top out immediately. BS in crawl cave, out over hole. BS in big side pull, top onto slab. SS, top onto slab. BS in nice round jug, move R into crack & top out. BS in good jug, rail L & through the nose. 5 5 5 5 5+ 6A 5C 5C M 1 Maple Maple Syrup Monopoly Blackbriar Dead By Committee May Go Nice Scavengers A Promise of Scorn Nothingness Raven Age 1 2 1 2 3 4 5 6 2 L M 1 2 3 L ? 37A Atmosphere A A 56C+ A A 37A 56C+

26C+ 26C+

66C+ 1 46B 96A 10 12 6A+ 5/6 5 115 5 76B 37A 37A 5/6 86A

1 Big But Brittle 6A+ BS R hand in crack & L on good hold. Climb arête & leftish.

2 Atmospheric Pressure 6C+ Start on good hold. Climb up & diagonally R. Top out.

Atmospheric Pressure Crouch start. Climb into Atmospheric Pressure, but head slightly L up the 3 7A blank looking section.

4 Bitter Oranges 6B Climb the crack line.

5 Low Pressure Cell  6C+ BS on crimp & side pull. Climb straight up using good hold on the R.

Pressure Drop  Start as for Low Pressure Cell. Climb right around corner & finish as for Dave’s A 6 6C+ Problem. 16B+

7 Dave’s Problem 6B BS on good hold around the corner. Climb straight up. B B 2~7C 8 The Last Call 6A BS on jugs, rail R then up below arête & up scary slab. 9 Lost in Life 6A SS, directly up, over blunt edge onto slab.

10 Doctor Do Little 5 SS on jugs, then directly up. Pinky & Painted Area 11 Done Dirt Cheap 5 SS on jugs, then directly up. Bad Day 12 You Win Big Winkie 5 BS on jugs, up jug arête. Thins a little at the top. l D 1 The Real Minky 6B+ BS in in under cling, into knee bar to jug. Side FX E C 2 Project ~7C SS, up through bulging overhang. l Painted Area Falling SS, up the RH open book, then move L into the top of the LH open B 46B+ 3 Sweet Like Maple Syrup  5C Raisin book. l A B 4 Cracker Ass 6B+ BS on jug, move R into open book. Rail L at the top. l 3 5 Take Me Tight  5C SS up the RH crack. l 5C Ballerina 6 Fuck Its High  5B SS up the RH crack. l Shipwreck 7 Romp 4 SS up the ramp. 2~7C B © Derek Marshall 27 To Welcome Painted Area 28 To Welcome Shipwreck Raisin Falling Falling © Derek Marshall Derek © l l Area l Painted A l C l . l D F l Pinky & Pinky Bad Bad Day B sloper E l . l Side Side FX climb climb out Ballerina , but break our R under the roof. the Runder our break , but & l OldStyle Bleau as far down as possible and climb climb out. andpossible as down far as on good holds on out. Top intoup pull,&side Lcrack. jug on BS SS as for for SS as up. pulls, directly side SSon lowR&topnose. out on traverse goodBSholds, on BS arête. LHup jugs, BS on BS uppull,slap&side Ronto jugBSon SS on jugs above, but far from the LHS of the L most painted panel. Traverse on lip onthrough Traverse panel.thepaintedofthe L frommost LHSbut far above, jugs SSon thejaggedup arête. Thenboulder. the LHon ramp the usingthetunnel, belowjaggedarête. jugs SSon arête. jaggedRonto pull. out ImmediatelySS sidemove in L out Break book. open into bulge Through intorail, crack. thensloppy on L BS,traverse roof. under roof. Lunder out Break book. SSopenin 5 A+ 7C 6A 5C 5C 5C 6A+ 6A+ 6A+ 6 7A+ 6A+ ~ 6C+  6A  1 5  2 C C Doggy Style Doggy Project Hypocrisy Lies Secrets Deceit Cheeks Between the Rock Spitting Dassie’s Dream Dassie’s Delight Dwarf’s Renegade In Style OldStyle 6 7 1 2 3 4 1 2 1 2 3 4 5 E D C 5C 3 C 7A+ 2 6C+ 4 6A+ 6A+ 1 6A+ 6 6 5/6 4/5 E 5C 5 D 5C 1 5B 6 6A+ ~7C 2 7 6A+ 3 4 5C 7 4 B B C Pinky 29 7 Shipwreck Raisin Falling Falling 8 Panic 6 © Derek Marshall Derek © To Welcome E D D Pinky Pinky Ballerina C F G A E Area Painted Painted B H 5 To Bad To Bad Day To Side FX Side To . 4 block slab slab RH. per per with your p . . No feet on bottom C is out. isout. L arête arête break ig ig hold up A. B . &L. l G l L. L. exit exit far out out by climbing straight up on the l - climb straight climbstraight up B , R. R. low low to slightly Swanlake & raverse raverse 2/3 of of L . . T corner. corner. Climb straight up using the arête l l R halfway halfway along the traverse climbstraight out by pulling a dyno to a slo corner on on good holds then top L RH climb straight climbstraight up (everything is in). Dyno variation is7 pull pull just to the - & up up the face. Traverse Traverse L . Pinky on the Brain, on on jugs 3 R far far with both hands on jug on on jug. Climb on good holds on the on good holds under roof. Climbup F BS deep BS deep as possible in back of cave. Climb out, exit R & top out. Start Start on good holds BS BS as for Start on biggish side BS BS BS BS SS, up the middle of the slab. 7A 7A 6A 2 6C 6C 6B+ 7A+ 6B+ 6A+ 6C+ 6C+ A 10 2  9 s s Exit ´ Morne Seriously Slabby Gordon’s Beastly Manly Mega Cave Little Little Karma Mending Heart Swanlake Guns n Roses Dreams of White Horses Balance Balance of Loss and Gain Pinky on the Brain 1 8 9 3 4 5 6 7 1 2 10 A F E C D A To Dungeon 36A B 47A

36A Bad Day 47A A

5 3/4 6A 3/4 15 25A 15 2 A 5A A

Pinky Panic B B

To Side FX

Painted Area Falling Raisin 5 36B+ 1 6A 5 66A 55B 26A A 45B Shipwreck

97A B 104 Ballerina To Welcome

1 Keep 'em Coming 5 BS on good holds. Climb R & then up the crack line.

2 3rd Base 5+ BS on good hold & climb up the crack line. 115

A 3 3rd Basement 6A BS on good obvious hold. Climb L into 3rd Base. Top out as 3rd Base. BadDay 4 Homer Run 7A Start as 3rd Basement, then traverse R along sloped edge & top out R.

5 Free Dental 6A Start on fair holds on arête. Climb diagonally up R. 75A

1 Terror-pin 5 Low start in cool pockets. Directly up. 85C

2 The Day I Don’t Exist 6A BS & climb straight up. 7 Decay of Disregard 5A BS on knotty, direct up.

3 Relationshit 6B+ BS on crimps. Climb straight up. 9 61398 Hack 5C BS under crack. Feet on LH boulder only. Up crack. B 4 Azusa Street 5 BS on rib RHS of cave, directly up. B 10 Silence of the Lamb 7A BS under crack, L into pockets, directly using side pulls in R trending crack. Up over smooth face.

5 Revival 5 BS on pinch back of cave. Directly out, not using LH boulder. 11 Transactional 4 BS, up easy break.

6 Sweet Crack Whore 6A BS on chockstone out using crack only. 12 Omen of Transformation 5 BS in easy break, traverse far L to top out. © Derek Marshall 30 Side FX 31 Welcome Shipwreck Raisin © Derek Marshall Derek © Falling Falling 8 9 Area Painted Painted B Ballerina Pinky & Pinky Bad Bad Day C A FX A D Side B Bleau 6 is L . . Block on the to to R 7 slab D Up Up . L l . 12 2 l l . out out at the highest point. - top top out & . l l . 3 l . 13 . . Climb up the arête. Top . Make a move straight up then head slightly . . Climbalong the lip of the roof. arête RH Hansel 4 the the without without the block jug jug on arête C up up the middle of the black slab on on good holds. Climb straight up as for Start Start on good hold. Climbup and out via blank face 6 - 5 BS on jugs then directly up. BS on jugs, rail then R top out. BS on jugs, up & out R. Top out. SS up on crimps in middle of face. Top out. SS SS & up BS on jug on arête BS in. BS Sit BS SS in hand SS in hand jam, move out L through the overhanging bulge, then up slab. BS on jugs under LHS. A C 5 5 5 5 5 5 7A 6A 7A 5C 5C 7B+ 6C+ 11 1    10  Take Take Me Contra Indications Hansel Gretel Simple Pimple Tastes Like Polar Bear Side Side FX Heidi`s Problem Pushing an Elephant the up Stairs Cam Cam Slam Full Effect Pushing Pushing a Putty Qwam Qwam Jam 7 8 9 3 4 5 6 1 2 12 13 10 11 A D B C A A A ? New World Tower

A Bleau 6 Pinky & 7 B Bad Day 5 3 4 2 Side FX Painted Area

1 B

3 1 2

1 Deeply Ordered Chaos 5 BS, traverse under ramp arête. Top out on horn at the point.

2 Edge of a Knife 5 BS, up to the L of the arête.

3 Cheese Grater  5C BS on LH face, up moving T onto arête, around the arête under the roof & up on jug ears.

A 4 Monster Cocks SA 5 BS on LH face, directly up.

5 Eager Hearts Await 5 BS, up the arête.

6 Think, Don’t Think  6B+ BS on sloppy crimp on the overhanging arête. Up into side pull, then directly up. Tower

7 Thoughtless  6B BS with LH on sloppy crimp & RH on jug, up under the overhanging arête.

1 Watcher 6C+ Crouch start on small holds & climb up the arête.

B 2 Gate Guard 6C SS 2m R of 1 on small holds. Climb up & L. Top out as for Watcher.

3 Tower Project Sit-start on good holds. Climb straight up and top out via slab. l

© Derek Marshall 32 A

8 7 4 6 5 6 5 3 A 2 1 A 4 8 7

1 Project SS, up the vertical break. l New World

2 Fires in the North  6A SS, up open book. l A 3 Abhorrent Rays 5 SS up break to a ledge, scramble R to exit. l C Pinky & D 4 Dragon Slayer 5 BS in RH side pull, traverse L & up. Don’t use the killer block unless you are planning to die. Bleau Bad Day B A 5 Fire in Our Eyes 5 SS, directly up. Top out.

6 Smoke & Steel  6A SS on rail, directly up. Top out. Side FX Painted 7 Edge of Steel  6B SS, mantle onto rail then directly up & top out. Area 8 We Are The Warriors 5 SS, then up easy arête. l

9 Cohesion 5 Scramble up steps to easy highball. Take care. 1 Minie Mo 5 BS on good holds. Climb up to horizontal crack. Traverse L & top out on R. l D 2 Meene 5 BS on good holds. Climb straight out. l B 3 Eene 5 BS on good holds. Climb straight out. l 1 Ballerina 6 4 Nice Bleau 5 BS on RH side pull. Top out. l

C 1 Yellow Donkey 6A BS on RH end, traverse with lots of heal hooks to the LHS, top out. l

1 Le Traverse 6B SS on good rail on the R. Traverse L using sloppers. It ends as Just like Bleau. 2 2 5 3 D Fire in the Hole 5 SS on crimp rail, directly up. Top out. 4

3 Angels & Earth  6A SS on side pull. Directly up. Top out. Bleau B 4 Depth of the Fade  6A SS using thin catch, directly up. D 5 Just Like Bleau  6B SS on thumb catch & a good foot hold. Climb straight out. Painting 6 Just Bleau Me 6A+ Same start as Just Like Bleau, move out L to jugs to top out.

4 3 1 2 1 C © Derek Marshall 33 New World 34 1 C 2 Area Painted Painted Pinky & Pinky Bad Bad Day © Derek Marshall Derek © 1 2 Side Side FX C 2 B Bleau A New World D C B 1 D 1 B l l l to to crimp& then up via the sloping rail. L D l l . on on crimp. Move RH & 1 l 1 . on under on under cling LH LH 2 SS on sloped platform, up on good holds moving R to the arête. SS on edge of sloping platform, up on good holds trending L. SS to side pull jug, bamba up trending R slightly. Start with BS in big side pull, up using R trending break. Start on low holds. Climb up the crack line Climbthe crack line SS on SS on slopped platform, up the open book on the R. BS in big side pull, up moving L in to bulge on the L. 5 5 5 5 5 5 7A+ 6A+ 3  4   Soar High High Five Clouds Go By Attack of The Cape Town Ninja Project Beaver Beaver Pie Strip Your Moose But Make No Mistake Bitch Bitch Fight 2 4 1 1 2 1 1 2 3 A D D B C A Lighthouse 35 ~7A 7 © Derek Marshall Derek © l . Top out . Top &R C C arête Climb uparête & LH on side pull. Directly pull. up.Directly side&LH on l LH te. te. te. te. ê ê sloper l A l on the middlethe on SS R. movingup jugs, BS on out. Topledge. sloppingontoup jugs, BS on topout.Railall thenledge. theLway sloppingontoup jugs, BS on BS on largeBSon thearBS,up notch. Rtoout over moving topup crimps, SSon A+ 6 ~7A+ 6A+ 6C 5C 5C ~7A  l l te. te. Bleau ê 5C 5 Burned out Bulb out Burned Project Veil TheBehind WhiteLight It Now Say FookBake Project 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 5C 6 New WorldNew A A BS on jugs, lower rock band is feet. arroundedis out for Upband rock lower jugs, BS on up.rail, directly jugBSon out. top Then rail, rail Lawayall tohead.jug BSon the up.Directly thein middle. break crack BSbumin ar the easy BS,up 5C 5C 6B 6A+ 5B 6A+ 1 D   ~7A+ 2 A ABatwa TheOnCome Kingdom Wildside Innocence to Return Cracker Ass Crackers NothingWeFeel Lighthouse 1 2 3 1 2 B 6A+ 3 C D B 5C 5B 1 B 2 A 6C 4 A 5C 6A+ 2 1 6A+ 1 6B 3 ~7A+ 2 D High Baller 36 l l . + B under under the roof. about about 5 L at . l Area l Painted Painted traverse traverse l L L & . . l Pinky & Pinky © Derek Marshall Derek © Bad Bad Day High High Baller. hands hands variation on on using crimps 9 R Climb out Climb out as climb straight climbstraight up There There isa no & . Side Side FX in the in the hole. Climb the crack line on on good holds on corner. Climb on fair holds on sloping rail. SS, up the easy ramp open book. SS, move out R to the arête, then top out. SS, onto jagged arête, traverse keeping your feet out on LHS. Climbsthe slab Climbthe steep slab to the BS BS SS BS A + 5 5 5 5+ 6C 6B+ 6C+ 6A 9 Bleau  ssis ssis  8  A  New WorldNew Project High Baller High Baller Ball Licker Spit Ball Snow Baller Fly Soup Shades of Grey Lig Jou Gat 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 B A D C 7 To Dungeon A Lighthouse High BallerHigh 6 D C 5 4 B 3 2 1 C A A A 1

1

1 2 1 2 3 23 3 A A B B 2 4 5

1 Project BS as Key Keeper Assis. Climb L along the seam. O 1 P Q To Wow B B 2 Key Keeper 6B SS on good hold, climb straight out. N 3 Key Keeper Assis 6B+ BS in the back of the roof. L K M G 1 Seal Launch 5 Climb the face.

2 Project Climb the blunt arête. J E D Dungeon F I C 3 Fancy Foot Work 6A+ SS in middle of face, directly up. 2 3 4 Zero 6C SS on something. Climb straight up. H C B 5 Zero Assis Project BS on big hold. Top out as Zero. A B 1 Blockhead 6A SS on sloping hold. Climb straight up. High Baller 2 Clam 6C+ BS on good holds. Climb L & then up the good holds.

? 3 Project

4 Cam‘s problem 6B BS on good holds & climb straight up. Lighthouse 5 Cameo 6B+ BS on rail, directly up 1 2

C C C Dungeon

4

2 3 5 C

© Derek Marshall 37 D O 3 P Q To Wow N L K M G

6 4 J E D 1 Dungeon F 5 I 2/3 H C 1 E A 1 Tickle Toes 5C BS, up crack. B

2 Dungeons & Dragons  7A BS at the back of the roof on good holds. Climb straight out. Problem ends on the jug at the end of the roof.

3 The Dragon  l 7A+ Start as for Dungeons & Dragons, from the last jug, break out a bit L & top out. High D Baller 4 Chasing the Dragon  7B Start as for Dungeons & Dragons. At halfway climb L via small crimps. Top out. E 5 Dungeon Master 6C+ BS on jugs, up the jutting prow arête. Top out. Lighthouse 6 Galley Slave 5 SS, up on rails & sloppers.

BS on the corner of the roof. Climb along the rail. End with one hand on the slopper at the lip. Project: Climb out of 1 Daylight 6C tunnel. Head diagonally up & R on the slab.

2 Hitting that G-Spot  7B SS on good side pull. Climb up & R. Finish with both hands on the jug on the face.

3 Hitting that G-Spot Assis 7B+ BS on good crimps. Climb up & R. Finish with both hands on the jug on the face. l

E 4 Project BS as for Hitting that G-Spot Assis. Climb straight up through the roof. l

BS as for Hitting that G-Spot Assis. Climb up & L. End on jug on the corner. (Project: keep climbing L around the 5 Higher, Harder, Happier 7B+ corner & up the thin crack line). 6 Project Climb the thin crack line. l E 7 Rise Up 6C SS. Climb straight up the arête. l

E Dungeon 4 G 2/3 5 7 6 3 4 1

© Derek Marshall 38 Dungeon 39 To Wow D A Q E C B M P F G N Lighthouse © Derek Marshall Derek © High Baller High H J O I K 5 Dungeon L H G 2 1 6 G 4 1 G G 3 2 5 3 . 4 . . out . &top out out via slab . . Climbthe corner & out out via slab I & on on under cling. Climb straight up l 5 & RH climb straight climbstraight up climb straight climbstraight up. & & Strawberry Strawberry Swing 6 of of F l R on on smallhold LH LH with with on good holds on on crimps. Climbstraight up on good hold. Climb straight up about 3m with good with good holds on tiny holds. Climbstraight up the slab . . Climbthe face. F SS BS BS SS SS SS SS SS with good holds same as Grapefruit Juice, break out over the arête to the L. SS SS, up cracks. BS under arête, out to the R. SS on rail,up ramp arête. 4 5 6B 7A 6B 7A 5C 6B+ 6B+ 6C+ 6C+ 6A+      Strawberry Swing Peach Jam Strawberry Whirl Drop Off Eject Eject Reject Assis Eject Reject Snakes Snakes & Ladders Squirrel Juice Dungeon Dwarf Poisonous Poisonous Dwarf Grapefruit Juice Sweet Like Spite 3 4 5 6 1 2 4 5 6 1 2 3 I F G 4 5 1 2

6 8 7 1 3 6 7 L J J J K

1 Secrets of Steel  6B BS on small horn, into crack then traverse L along the lip. Top out.

2 Hammer High 6A BS on small horn, then directly up. L L

3 Chicks Dig Credit Cards  5C SS on credit card crimps, then top out.

4 Chili Bite  6C+ SS on match side pull, up on sloppers over the blunt rounded arête.

J SS on match side pull (same as Chili Bite), follow sloppers R to a big hold, then top 5 Chili Bite Wimp 6B+ 3 8 out. 2 9 8 6 Origins 5 BS up the small triangular overhang. 5 7 6 7 Give Me Some Drums  5 BS on jug in inverted ear, move R on under clings & jugs. Up the crack. 4 1 O 8 Heeding the Call 6A BS on far R, low traverse L over inverted ear. Top out L. P Q To Wow K 1 One & For All 5 BS in rail crack, up trending R. N Crouching Tiger, Hidden L M 1 7B BS on tiny under cling, up bulging arête. K Belgian G

2 Make a Way 6C BS as for Hideaway, break out R into scoop & out via crack. J E D Dungeon F 3 Hideaway 6A BS with good hold. Climb straight up & top out using the blunt corner. I 4 Stay Away 5B BS, break out L on jugs. 10 H C BS on same jug as Hideaway, traverse L on jugs & pockets. Top out over the 3 12 11 5 Out of My Way  5C Dungeon perfect jug pockets. A B L 6 The High Way 5 BS on 3 perfect jug pockets. Directly up. L High Baller 7 Broken Souls 5 BS on large side pull, directly up.

8 No Return 4 BS on jugs, then up in RH break.

9 Live Life Loud 4 BS on jugs, then break out L, then up. Lighthouse 10 Wildfire 4 SS up the jug path.

11 Evil Incarnate 6A SS on small crimps.

12 Tainted Metal  6A+ SS on small sloppers & a loose looking flake. Directly up.

© Derek Marshall 40 Dungeon 41 To Wow D A Q E 2 C B M P F © Derek Marshall Derek © G N Lighthouse High Baller High H J O 1 I K Dungeon L Q O Q ? N 2 1 7 P 2 8 1 2 . L. 3 3 . Climb out Climb out using both boulders. Rooivalk. . . 4 limb into &finish as . . C 5 of of arête. Climb up the good holds Q R in good in good holds & climbstraight up in the back between the two boulders. with both with both hands on lower rail. straight Climb up to the on fair holds and climbstraight up on good hold on good holds & climbstraight up, exit slightly 6 BS BS in rail, up onto scary ET head. BS on arête directly onto head top out. BS SS up the rounded wafer arête. SS up the very blunt arête. SS on far R, railL on jugs. Top out around the corner L. SS to R of round fat arête. SS on the arête. Directlyup. SS to L of R of round fat arête. SS BS BS BS BS Project N Q - 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 6A 6A 7A 6A 5C 5C 5C 6C M    Extension 1 ike ike Tiling L Fun Fun Like MuffDiving Snot Shambok Rooivalk Green War Grout Heads Will Role Nice Head teeth) (no Our Time Has Come Eye of the Storm The Bird Clean Break Rooivalk Demonized Demonized Decline of Man 1 2 3 8 1 2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1 1 2 P N Q O M Solitaria Happy Jezam (P 54) (P 55) (P 56) Disturbia Chagga (P 59) (P 57) Nevaland Backroom (P 60) (P 58)

Shady Nook (P 52)

Path starts opposite the road sign Park next to the sign.

Everything Lost Midway Titan Secret Garden Jungle (P 43) (P 45) (P 46) (P 48) (P 50) (P 51)

© Derek Marshall 42 Everything 43 D 4 3 © Derek Marshall Derek © 2 2 1 1 To Midway F G K J M H C E Everything L I B D C 3 A F 2 2 1 1 To Shady To Shady Nook 1 E G . 1 Rough Rough Cut B l 5 l across across the face and finish as L . . Climb R in the in the middle of the face. blunt blunt bulge trending a bit R. line - to to L of arête. . 4 limb the limbthe crack limbthe slab limb the limbthe face on on fair holds. Climb on good hold on the 3 BS, c BS, c BS BS BS, c Crouch Crouch start in large pocket. Directly up arete spike. Project BS on weird under cling, move out trending R. BS on side pull, top out. BS on side pull, move out R onto arête, then top out. BS on large side pull, up open book. BS on crimp, move out R through bulge. BS on side pull & sloper, directly up. BS on nice jug under roof, move L into big pocket. Up L. BS on nice jug under roof, up R to smalljug. BS on nice jug under roof, out R through bulge. SS on rail,move L & up break. SS on rail.Feet up, then dyno for top. B B 5 5 7B 7A 6A 6B 7A 5 5 6B 6A 6C 6C 6A+ 6A+ 6C+ 6C+  2          No holds No holds 1 Rough Rough Cut Not the Achilles Afrozombiac Afrozombiac Doddle Inseption Deception Northern Edge Income Inequality It ‘ill It ‘ill Heel Failure To Launch Take Off! Say Yes Blind Side Let Let All Mortal Flesh Be Silent Reminicence Brail 4 1 2 1 2 3 2 1 2 3 1 1 1 5 3 4 1 2 A F E D C B A G Everything 44 K 4 3 2 © Derek Marshall Derek © 4 3 1 2 2 K L 1 1 F G To Midway K J M H C E Everything L I J B D A I . 1 . L, around L, around the Cracked Cracked Wide Open 2 up up the front face. To Shady To Shady Nook up up the open book. & L L & up up the open book . & . . Climb straight up. , , from big jug traverse ? on on good holds into along along crimps LH R R . through through the roof . . Climb L & crimpfor rête rête at the open book of of the open book. Climb . R RH LH LH a big big hold at the start of the crack. straight Climb up. line - n rail, move L, pull pull on the arête. arête. - pull pull for pull. pull. Climb straight up. - A Whole Lot of Something - . . Climb straight out er p climb up climbup the slop low side limb up limb up the open book. limbthe crack on on lowest jug on big side on good side S, c Crouch Crouch start on the corner & traverse Start both hands o Start on good hold just SS, c S BS Same start as corner & BS BS on BS BS BS, up the knife SS on smallcrimps, directly up middle of face. 6A 5A 5A 5A 7B 5A 5A 7A 5B 5C 5C 7A+ 7A+ 6B+ 1   1  othing N verything E ot of Something ot of Something  L L  2 erse erse hole hole hole hole W W Unfolding Unfolding Emotion Discus Skipped the Lank Cracked Wide Open Simpleton A Trav Missed the Lank Politics Random Nothing Nothing is Everything is A Everything Everything Must Go 2 3 4 1 2 3 1 1 1 2 1 2 1 M H I J L K H M Lost 45 3 Midway © Derek Marshall Derek © To Titan A 4 Everything B Lost C A C . . A 5 line. 1 under under roof & climbthrough the roof via pointed lip. , , SS of of corner under the roof. Climbthrough the roof Get Get a Grip R the the divots. Climbstraight up via the crack of of B R just just . . Climbthe slab. SS at SS 1m SS Climbsthe small yellow face. Start on big sloping hold &climb straight up 7A 7A 7A 5A 7A+ 2 Future Future Perfect Lost Get a Grip Deserted Twisted Twisted Past 3 4 5 1 2 A B B A 46 E

F Midway C Midway C A G K D To Titan H B J I Everything © Derek Marshall Derek © Lost D 5 C 3 4 2 2 1 1 l . top top out & l l l . . Climb through roof F B l & L. 3 on good on good holds. Climbup 2 BS BS on LHS, up toping out on smooth bulge. Crouch start in two prominent pockets BS under jutting arête, traverse L & then L under the roof. BS under jutting arête, traverse L & through the roof. BS on arête crimp. Up to smallpocket on arête. Top out on the arête. BS on arête crimp, railR then top out. SS on ramp & under clings. Top out. BS on side pull, directly up. BS under arête, up the arête. 1 5 5 5 5B 6A 6A 6A 6A+ 6B+ 6A+     Albatross Albatross No, From Quebec Formalised Spider Spider be Gone Welcome to South Africa Yes Font Sucks French Arête Smash & Grab Weak Weak Fantasy Cobwebs 1 2 2 3 5 1 2 3 4 1 A E F E D Midway 47 1 © Derek Marshall Derek © J E F Midway C A G K 4 D To Titan H B J I Everything Lost 3 K 2 I 1 1 3 4 5 . . out - out - top H & H . 1 . . make make a hop for holds higher up. Top & arête arête 2 L arête. arête. Climb the arête on on the L LH LH on on the far far back in the overhang. Climbthrough the steep stuff using both cracks. Climb straight up with with fair hold on arête. Climbstraight up BS BS, up topping onto very smooth top. BS SS SS up the recess crack. SS on side pull, lunge for the hole, top out. SS SS BS on jugs, directly up. BS on side pull, through hole & top out. SS on slopers, directly up. SS on slopers, trend L to top out. BS, up crack break. 5 5 5 6A 7A 6A 6A 6B 5C 5C 6C 6A+ 7A+   1      2  Organic Natural Line Damanamanzi Paul‘s Paul‘s Consistency Tapestry of Life Hole Hearted Day to Sleep Shudder Before the Beauty Chilla Never Never Ending Story Decades Decades in the Sun Finish the Show Eyes Eyes of Sharbat 1 1 2 3 4 5 1 4 2 3 2 1 1 G I J K H G Titan 48 Titan Midway C 1 F B A To Jungle E G D © Derek Marshall Derek © Lost C To Secret Garden B ? 2 3 D D 1 A 4 l l 3 rête. rête. a line. line. - - 2 . . Climbthe 2 2 limb the limbthe crack limbthe crack in RH break, in RH break, directly up. . . Climbthe slab. SS BS BS, up the prominent sweet line. BS in under cling side pull islow hole. Up onto crimprail, then out over slab. BS on jugs between two boulders. SS on RHS BS, c BS, c BS on jugs, directly up. SS up SS up easy arête. 4 4 5 7A 5A 5A 5C 5C 6A+ E 1   E Mellow Mellow Yellow Porn Snaking Snaking the Mates Rise & Resist Tortoise sticking its Head Out Horsehead Hikin the Lycan Down Down Syndrome Project Scorn Scorn 1 2 2 3 4 1 1 2 3 1 1 A E D C A Titan 49 Titan Midway C F B A To C Jungle E 9 G © Derek Marshall Derek © D Lost To Secret Garden F 10 F ? F 5 6 5 2 6 7 1 1 8 G . out - 2 top Jump Jump Start. & Jump Jump Start. out out at - top . L L & finish finish as 3 out - L L & . . Then jump to lip line. line. L L & out. top er p . & &R slop . cling crack line. by by the seam. Traverse & climbstraight up. . . Climb diagonally ers p climb straight climbstraight out , slop on on jug on good holds. Climb the crack on good holds. Climb up just around just around the corner. Traverse on crimps. Climbstraight up one hand on under . . Climbstraight up BS BS BS BS BS Start on BS SS BS on good hold BS on good hold SS, directly up slab. SS, directly up short slab. 6A 6A 7A 6B 6A 6A 6C 5C 6B+ 6B+ 6C+ 4 What What if Dom‘s Revenge Fading Fading Friction Scorched Earth Titan Project Mini Hercules Sayan Suicide Whale Jump Start Back Door Bouncer The Back Door Super Sayan 9 1 2 8 5 6 7 3 4 1 2 10 F F G Secret Garden 50 Midway To E Jungle A Titan D B C F 5 © Derek Marshall Derek © G Secret Garden To 4 D Backroom C D E 3 3 ? ? 2 2 2 C 1 & 1 D then then up , B 6 G corner corner to the lip l the the L . staying staying on the face. (Easier if R ish - . out out R hole - & then then up R, R, . . Climb up &slightly above above cubby R R 2 out cling in the roof. Climbstraight up. traverse traverse 1 pull pull for top & crack) & L . . Climbstraight up. . on on under passage, . RH & sharp & sharp side . L l the the face G Forbidden Forbidden Fruit Up out. - . of of on on the lip& R Top good good holds LH LH L. 1 F at at the beginning of the with with & climbstraight up the arête on good hold for SS up the crack. Climbthe green moss streak. SS BS BS BS climbed straight up using jug on SS up on Climbthe slab on the corner Starts 2m BS, up easy open book break. BS, up easy break. SS on crimps Lie Lie down start at the back of the roof on obvious holds. Climbalong slightly 2 A 5 4 5 4 5A 6B 7A 5A 6 7A 5C 6C   Secret Secret Passage Itch Itch You Can’t Scratch Fine Day Sun Kissed Sweet Dreams The Green Mile Project First Contact Forbidden Fruit Indulgence Little Little Monster Little Alien Pushin 5 6 3 4 3 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 A D C B A Jungle 51 Midway A B Titan C Jungle © Derek Marshall Derek © Secret Secret Garden C 3 To Nevaland 4 C 8 1 2 B 4/5 4 5 6 B 7 l open open book. light light hole. B - L. l out out over blank bulge. - . top light. light. rête - & a up up the crack through through sky Doing Doing the Nasty. then then up via crimps. & . out out slightly - & for for out - out R - top top & move move R R & finish finish as , 1 . . Climb straight up L L & . . Climb l l . . Climb 2 light. light. - light light hole - , , up through a nasty looking groove. of of arête on good holds. Climbthe sky Evolution clings. Climb straight up. LHS Rumble Rumble in the Jungle big big holds 4/5 on on under as for on good holds. Climb straight up then top on good holds, at halfway point on good holds. Climb straight up on on the in the cave on rounded boulder. Climbout 3 Same Same start as SS SS on SS on jugs, up the juggy break. BS BS SS SS SS, up the slight recess. SS on crimpsunder blade arête. Directly up the blade edge. SS Lie start under Lie start under crack, on good jugs on RH boulder. Follow the roof cracks, using allthe boulders, then top out through the sky BS with LH on side pull arête & RH on crimpof middle boulder. Feet on LH boulder. Up through roof crack, using all the boulders, then top out through the sky BS + + 5 A A 7A 7A 5A 5B 6A 7B 6C 5C 6C 7A+ 6B+ 6 6 6C+       it it Project -  l Jim cal  - A    ma 1 - Problem Bushbaby Jungle Jungle Juggler Rumble in the Jungle Direct Rumble in the Jungle Mandrill Sit Jou Beester Poort Voorentoe Evolution Watcha Doing the Nasty No Name Brand Under Under the Blade Knife Edge A Boy Named Gordon Loves Crack Neil's 2 3 4 1 2 6 7 8 4 5 3 2 3 1 1 2 3 C B A B Shady Nook 52 7A+ 1 © Derek Marshall Derek © Everything 7A+ 1 B A B C Shady Nook Shady 5  4 7A+ D 1 6B 2 Bees =  Happy 6A+ 3 6B+ B C 1 7A . 4 A roots low branches low branches & over over 7B 3 . & up. & up. L Cracken Cracken Traverse , , up a smallface. start start of of of on on open pinch. Climb L & RH A l Start Start Where? Slab of of Traverse Traverse L on cracks & rails.Through various corners, R arête. arête. Climbthe arête. on on flat under cling RH about about 2m LH LH with with on the on good holds. on good low holds about 1.5m SS on crimps, up the slab. SS BS BS Top out BS on good slopped hold. Up into a nice jug, top out through bulge. SS BS in rail, up open book. SS on crimp, up on slab. 5 5 7B 7A 6B 5C 7A+ 6A+ 5 2 Keys   the Seven the Seven  5C 1 Spirit Cracken Traverse Sembelant Keeper of My Mistake Fat Slags Fat Slags Can Fat Juicy Fanny Fat Fanny Freedom 1 3 4 1 2 4 2 3 B A 96A+ 86B+ 76A+ 66A

47A 5 7A+ 5 7/8 7A+ 47A

17A+ 36C 36C 16B+ C C C  Bees  Bees

1 Start Where? Slab  6B+ SS, up the slab. 106A+ 2 Campus.ru.ac.za  7A+ SS on good hold. Climb straight up. D

3 Sparks of Africa 6C SS on good hold R of the crack line. Climb slightly up & L. Finish as Shadoinka.

4 Shadoinka 7A SS on good hold. Climb straight up.

5 Shadoinka Sit-start 7A+ BS, climb into & finish on Shadoinka. C 6 Es ist Juli 6A BS, climb up & R via good holds. 1 5

7 It‘s My Pleasures 6A+ BS, climb up & slightly L via smaller holds.

8 Closing Time 6B+ BS on good hold. Climb up & 1.5m L. Top out via overlap.

9 Last Call 6A+ BS on the corner. Climb up & top out L. C

10 Final Demand 6A+ BS to R of overhang, rail L under roof. Out into rail.

D 1 Living Under a Toadstool 5 BS on cool low feature. l ShadyNook

Shady Nook  C B Happy D Everything A

 = Bees

© Derek Marshall 53 17A A B B 46B 26A+ 36A

55C 16B 35C 25C A 66B 1 Solitaria  7A Start in cave on pinch & heel on roof boulder. Hard match move to rail & then move R with toe hooks. Lower boulders must not be used. B 2 La Grotta  6A+ Same start as Solitaria, in cave on pinch & heel on roof boulder. Hard match move to rail & then directly out. Lower boulders must not be used.

3 A Long Way to Go 6A BS on low rail, into horizonal fist crack. Move L & up jagged arête. A 4 A Hill To Die Upon 6B BS on low rail, into horizonal fist crack. Directly up small face.

5 Never Bend the Knee 5C BS on low rail, into jug jam. l 45C 6 It’s A New Day 6B BS on side pulls. l

1 Inspiration 6B BS on bulging ramp, arête in LH & sloper in RH. Directly up. l

2 Meritocracy Myth 5C BS, up ramp. B 3 Beau of the 5th Column 5C BS, LH on jug horn & RH on side pull, up into curved crack.

4 Today is the Day 5C SS up arête

Jezam Shady Nook

 Solitaria

Everything Happy

D C A Solitaria B  = Bees D C

© Derek Marshall 54 36A A B B 45C

17A

27A+ 26B 15C 26B 56A 65B

1 Happy Dreamer 7A BS with RH on low crimp & LH on higher crimp. Climb L & up along crack-line. l A 2 Morne 1 7A+ BS on sloppers. Climb straight up. l

1 Huntress 5C BS on jug, directly up. l

2 There Comes a Time 6B BS on crimps , up blunt arête. l

3 Dwarf Fisting 6A BS on rail formed by precarious looking flake. Traverse L under roof then up break. l B 4 Beyond My Station 5C BS on rail formed by precarious looking flake. Directly up. l 26C 5 Solidarity 6A BS in small cave. LH on pinch & RH on rail. Directly out. l C 18A 6 Rough & Ready 5B BS on RHS of small cave. l

1 Ratatouille  8A BS on a pinch at back of the roof. Climb out however you can, then top-out. FA Adam Ondra. l

C 2 Consolation 6C BS on side-pulls. Climb straight up. l

3 Jodie 5B BS on good hold. Climb along the edge of the roof. Top-out at the end. l

1 Your Destination 5 BS on side pull, directly up. l D 2 The Mighty Fallen 6A BS with crack for the L & side pull for the R. l 3 1 Down Fall 5 SS up the LHS of the boulder. 5B E C 26A F 1 Follow My Lead 5C SS Up the slab, into the crack. D 15 E Jezam F

Shady Nook Happy A D Everything C Happy B 15 15C Solitaria E F  = Bees © Derek Marshall 55 A B

2 55C 46A 2 5B 7B+ 1 1 36C 8A 6A+

C 1

1 Madman  8A+ BS on fair holds then climb out along seam. FA Adam Ondra.

2 Jezam  7B+ BS on block with LH on side-pull at the back of roof & RH on slopper on the lip of the roof. Climb straight out.

A 3 Dang  6C BS on good holds & climb out.

4 Juggling Dwarfs 6A BS on jug rail deep in cave, awkward moves to get out & rail R to finish of Dang.

5 Dwarf Crack Porn 5C BS LH in low horizontal drack & RH on jug at the back of cave. Traverse out & up. Bottom rocks are excluded. l

1 Wing It 6A+ BS on good holds. Traverse L & top out as Not Phased. B 2 Not Phased 5B BS on good holds & climb through the overhang. C 1 Kushdie 7A Is a few meters down the hill. BS on round boulder. Climb straight up. LH arête is out. B 1 Jumper 6A SS on sloppy smooth little ledge. Jump & top out. D 2 Sticky Reality 7B SS with crimps. Climb straight out. D 3 Strange Reality 5 SS, up the crack break.

D B Jezam A Shady Nook Jezam C Everything Happy

35

16A 27B Solitaria

 = Bees © Derek Marshall 56 A B B D

1

1 2 3 1 2 1 C

1 Love Shines 6B+ BS on good hold fairly far L. Climb diagonally R & top-out.

A 2 Short Show 5A BS on good hold. Climb straight up & top-out. 1 3 Good Times 5B Climb the overlap. Top-out.

1 Little Chagga  6B+ Climb the slab using the crack line on the L.

2 Chagga  7A Walk past boulder A into a passage. The problem is in the shade. Climb the smooth looking slab. B 3 Murder on Gin 7A+ Climb the crack line 2m L of open book. 4 Shoot your Shoe 6B Start on slopper just R of open book and climb straight up. E F C 1 We’re Not Gona Take It 7A+ SS, up smooth bulge on sloppers & tiny holds.

D 1 Alone but not Forgotten 6A+ SS up crack break. Nevaland Backroom In the passage way find where the passage is obstructed by choke stones. Start in jam crack on E 1 Born on The Fringe  6B raised flat platform. Rail L on jugs into choke stone cracks. Under the choke stone out the other side to the natural finish or top out onto the choke stone. Disturbia To Secret Garden G  E F D Chagga C G A B Chagga

To Lost

Jezam Shady Nook 1 

Happy  = Bees © Derek Marshall 57  = Bees Nevaland B Backroom A A F 1 E Disturbia 2 C To Secret Garden  D

Chagga 5 4 6 3 4 A To Lost

1 High Step Hack  6C SS with LH on arête & RH on good crimp. Climb straight out.

2 High Step Combo 6C+ Start as for High Step Hack, traverse R under the scoop & end as Password. B

3 Password 5A Climb up good holds. A 4 Restricted Access 4 Climb up good holds.

5 Ewige Blumen Kraft  6C BS right underneath the roof on good holds. Climb out through the bulge & top-out.

6 Ewige Blumen Kraft ext.  7A Start as Restricted Access. Climb underneath roof into Ewige Blumen Kraft. 2 1 Solar Power 5B Climb the arête. 1 B 2 Solar Panel 6B SS on sloppers in the middle of the face. Climb straight out.

1 Morne 2 7A Climb the crack-line/slab (easier with rounded arête). A

2 Ich es Blume 5C Climb the cracks. C 2 Everlasting After Life 5 SS, up the arête staying on RHS of the arête. Act Of Desperation 5 SS, up the arête. 3 D 3 Walking in Circles 5 SS, up rails & top out.

D 1 The Final Count Down 5 BS in side pull crack. Up the crack & up the edge of the fin. 4 Secrets I Hide 5C BS & up easy ramp.

C F Backroom

1 3 4 2 3 1 2

D E © Derek Marshall 58 47B+ 37A 57C+

66B+ 75C

27B

17B A A A

1 Borsbeeld  7B+ BS on low big jug, directly up prow using fridge moves.

2 Airwolf  7B BS on big hold. Climb up & slightly L. Small crimp on face is off limits. B

3 Airdog  7A Start as Airwolf. Climb straight up via small crimp.

A 4 Disturbia  7C BS in the middle of low roof. RH on good hold, LH on pinch. Climb diagonally L to top-out. l

5 Lionheart  7C+ Start as Disturbia. Climb straight up & top out. l

6 Dis It 6B+ BS on fair holds. Climb R & top out. l

7 Taken 5C BS on flat jug, up moving R. l 16C 2 36A+ 1 Pop that Divot  6C BS on fair holds underneath roof. Climb the seam & top straight out via divot on slab. 6A

B 2 Jumbalia 6A BS on good in cut holds. Climb straight up. C 3 Quick Fix 6A+ BS with RH on side pull, LH on in cut hold. Climb straight up. ? Nevaland Backroom

A C C Disturbia B To Secret Garden Disturbia 

Chagga

 = Bees To Lost C © Derek Marshall 59 A

8 5

5 3 2 1 7 6 6 4 A A

BS on good holds in the back of the cave. Climb L on good holds & out via 1 Believe in Fairies 5B arête. Feet only on vertical rock.

2 Lost Boy  6B+ BS on crimps. Climb R & up arête on fair holds. 11/12/14 13/15 3 Fairy Fair 5+ SS using anything. Climb straight out.

4 Never Grow Up 6B SS on crimps. Climb straight up. 12/13 9 5 Nevaland 5B SS on mega jugs. Climb straight up & top out.

6 Nevaland Assis 7B/+ BS on good hold in the back of the roof. Climb right top out as Nevaland. 15/14 10 7 Nevarest Project Start as Nevaland Assis. Climb R to crimps then head L to top out. 11 A 8 Breaking Point 6B SS, jump to side pull jug. Move L to top out. A A 9 Pirate 7B+ SS on good crimps. Make a huge move to a hidden divot over the lip & top-out.

10 Project BS on under cling jug. A 11 Illusion der Liebe Assis 6C+ BS on sloppers. Traverse L & into Illusion der Liebe. Nevaland Backroom

12 Illusion der Liebe  6B+ SS on crimps on the corner. Traverse L until good hold then top out. B Nevaland 13 Rufio  C6B Start as Illusion der Liebe. Climb straight out Disturbia To Secret 14 Clocks  7A BS, LH on big side pull & RH on small crimp. Climb straight up. Garden  15 Turning Time  7A+ BS as per Clocks, rail R & top out as per Rufio. Chagga

 = Bees To Lost

© Derek Marshall 60 AB

5 2 1 4 3 4 B B

1 Burn With Me 5 SS up easy ramp.

2 Enter The Maze 5 Low start in rail, up arête.

B 3 Boomerang  6A SS up middle of face.

4 Serendipity 5C BS on side pull jug, up broken bulge.

5 Over & Done  6A+ BS behind tree, directly up.

A

Nevaland Backroom

B Nevaland

Disturbia To Secret Garden 

Chagga

 = Bees To Lost

© Derek Marshall 61 Straight Flying Line Stitch Saucer (P 66) (P 68)

Path starts in front of the road sign. Park next to the sign. Flying Hippo (P 63)

© Derek Marshall 62 A 1 6B+

1 6A

2 6B+ 2 5A B B

7 4 5A 5A 3 6A+ 3 6 5A 5A 5 5C 8 5B 1/2 6B+ 1 5A 2 5A 4 6A 9 6C+6C+ C 1 I Can I Will  6B+ BS on tree, rail L in low jug rail. Bump two rail up & keep railing all the way L. Top out. l

2 The Schnaffel  6B+ BS on tree, rail L in low jug rail, at the end of the jug rail, top out moving L. l

3 Strength In Mobility  6A+ BS on jug rail, directly up. l

4 Retaliation  6A BS in rail, then directly up. l

6 5A A 5 Cry For Deliverance 5C BS behind tree, directly up. l C 7 6B 5 5A 6 Strange World 5A BS in rail, directly up. l 7 Evermore 5A BS in slopper, directly up. l C 8 You Don’t Know 5B BS on slopper jug. Directly up. l

9 One Two, Skip a Few  6C+ BS on rail, directly up. l

1 Random Rails 5A BS in jam rail, bamba through the rails to top out. l B 2 Retarded 6A Lying down start in jam rail. Out through the nose. This is tiny, but fun! ll FlyingHippo

1 Late Night Live 5A BS in rail, through the roof & up the crack system. 9 ? 85C 2 The Opposition 5A BS in rail crack, through the roof, moving L & up the crack system.

3 The Check In 5A BS on jug rail, directly up. Straight Line Stitch 4 Real Time 5A BS in rail crack, through the roof, then up open book crack.

C 5 Daily Show 5A SS, up diagonal crack. E 6 The Late Show 5A BS, up open book. D 7 Wubba Lubba 6B BS in crack rail, up into break. Flying Hippo To Flying B 8 New Rule 5C BS in crack under chimney, up R trending diagonal break. Stepping back is out. C Saucer

9 ? Potential A To the Road © Derek Marshall 63 C C D D

3 5 4 ?

13 11 6A 2 5A 6A+ 1 5 10 6C+ 12 5C 5 6A

10 Ring of Fire  6C+ Crouch start on jug rail at the back of horizontal finger crack. Follow the crack then up the open book. D 11 War of Stories  6A+ BS on jug rail, up into low crimp rail. Campus R on crimp rail then up the open book. C 12 The Art of the Meal 5C BS, up open book crack system. Straight Line Stitch 13 Wicked Malicious 6A BS in crack side pull, up break using finger lock.

1 Klaar Gepraat 5 BS in open book crack. l E

2 Machete Master 5 BS on jug rail, directly up. l D Flying Hippo D 3 Conversion 5 BS on crack rail, up moving R. l To Flying B C Saucer 4 ? Potential 6 A 6C 5 The Hippo 6A BS in crack rail, up rails. To the 9 Road 6A D

Hang start on rail, up rails under the tortoise head, FlyingHippo 6 Astro Tortoise Head  6C top out to L of nose.

7 Too Subtle  6A+ Hang start on rail, up rails L of tortoise head.

D 8 Take From The Weak  5A SS up rails. 9 Hippos Will Fly  6A SS, up wide open book.

11 5A 10 Bad Crack 5C SS in horizontal crack 7 6A+ 11 Breaking the Silence 5A SS on rail, up onto ledge, walk off. l 6 6C

96A 8 5A

10 5C © Derek Marshall 64 E E E

9 5C

8 5B

6 6A

7 10 6A 11 6A 2 1 5A 5C 3 5A 5 5A 4 5A 5A

1 Power & Glory 5A BS on jug & side pull. l

2 Baptized in Bush 5A BS, up middle of rails. l Straight 3 Divine Wrath 5A BS on jug, move L up arête. l Line Stitch 4 Man Of the Wild 5A BS, up arête. l E 5 Wrath Born in the Dark 5A BS up open book crack. l D E 6 Conquer the Stars  6A SS on jug, traverse L into big side pull, then top out. Flying Hippo To Flying 7 The Ride Begins  6A+ BS on rail, directly up. B C Saucer 8 The Others 5B BS on jugs, up moving R to avoid cap-stone roof. A 9 The Fringe 5C BS on jugs, up over rail & through cap-stone roof. To the Road

10 The Outsiders 6A BS on crimp, up into rail, directly through the cap-stone. FlyingHippo

11 Built to Destroy 5C SS on crimps, up trending L. Top out L of cap stone. Nevaland

© Derek Marshall 65 3 2 6B A 6B+ A

3 6B

3 6B 4 6A+ 2 6B+

2 6B+ 1 6B

1 Bushman Bum 6B BS on lay rail as far L as possible. Rail under the roof & then out in the first break in the roof. l

2 Men of Men  6B+ BS on rail, as far L as possible. Rail R under roof. Top out in corner. l

A BS in rail. Rail R, past the open book corner in the roof, use horizontal crack in the lip. Top out on the other side 3 Khoekhoen  6B of the jut. l

4 Dwarf Fetish  6A+ BS on rail. Top out directly. l Straigh Line Straigh Stitch

Straight Line Stitch B A

Flying Hippo

To Flying Saucer

© Derek Marshall 66 3 6A+

2 4 4 6A 1 6A

5 5C+ 6 B 6A 7 5C

8 5C 9 5 3 6B 10 5 2 6B+

4 6A+ 11 6A

A Straigh Line Straigh Stitch

1 6B

1 Social Justice  6A+ BS in horizontal crack rail, rail R under roof. Top out in corner. Straight 2 Kick Start My Heart 4 BS in horizontal crack rail, directly up. Line Stitch B 3 Saved By Reason  6A+ BS in horizontal crack rail, break out R of pinch nose. A

4 Our Solemn Hour  6A BS in horizontal crack rail, out over pinch nose.

5 Degeneration of Discourse 5C+ BS on low horizontal crimp, up into horizontal crack & up open book. Flying Hippo B 6 Black Veil 6A BS on dinner tray rail. 7 Running in Circles 5C BS on rail, up recess.

8 Indictable  5C BS in rail, directly up. To Flying 9 Obstruction of Justice 5 BS on jug rail under roof. Directly up. Saucer

10 Anakasperian 5 BS in rail crack. Up over rails.

11 Millenarian  6A BS in horizontal finger crack, up into RH side pull. Out to L of tree. © Derek Marshall 67 Hang start on slopped edge, rail R, using jam rail, all the way to the end of 1 My uMlambo  6B+ A the nose. Top out over the end. l A 2 Healing Hookers  6B Hang start on edge with feet on the slab. Rail L, all the way. l 3 6B 3 Crack Whore  6A BS in crack. Up into crack rail. l

1 6B+ 4 Do It Anyway 6A BS on jugs. Rail L on slopper edge. Top out on the end. Low rock is out. l 1 6B+ B 1 ? Potential C 1 Do Do Do 5C BS on LH edge, rail R & top out using knee hook. l 2 6A 3 6B 1 Button Breakfast 5A BS to the L, up jug face. 2 Fuck America  6A+ SS on jug, up on crimp moving L over blunt nose.

3 Hush Money 5A BS on RH rail jug, up moving L, then up the open book.

D 4 Stormy’s Crack 5C BS on slopper ramp, up into lightening crack.

BS on slippery ramp, up into open book. Traverse L under roof. Top out 5 Fuck Trump 6A+ around the corner in the lightening crack. 4 6A 6 Will of the Strong 6B BS on slippery ramp, up into open book. Move out R onto the juggy prow. To Area 1 A C Flying Saucer 1 5A E 2 6B B F A 3 6A+ D

1 5C To the C F Road FlyingSaucer

1 ? D B

1 5A Nevaland

6 6B E 5 6A+ E 1 Everlasting Pain 5A BS on rail, up through low roof. l

1 Into the Light 5A BS on jagged jut. Up open book. 2 1 6A+ F 2 Rider on The Wind  6B BS on jagged jut. Rail R to crack & step-down. l 5A 3 5A 4 5C 3 Do The Dassie 6A+ SS on rail jug, up on rails to a dassie ledge. Traverse off on this.

© Derek Marshall 68 A

1 5A

2 6A 3 6B+ 3 6B+

1 5A 2 5A 3 6A

2 3 5C 2 5A 4 5A 1 1 5A B C C

UFO is about 400m upstream from Flying Saucer on the Grahamstown side of the stream. These are the furtherest boulders worth climbing in Area 51 UFO 1 Messin With Ya 5A BS on rail, directly up. C B A 2 Jokes Aside 5A BS on rail, directly up thorough overhang. A 3 Not Kidding 5C BS on rail, directly up thorough overhang. To Flying Saucer 1 Don’t Ask for Mercy 5A BS on rail, directly up on rails.

2 Fucking With Fire  6A BS on rail, traverse L on lip of roof. Top out on slab. B 3 What You Do to Me 6A BS on rail, traverse L under roof. l To the Road 4 Out of The Darkness 5A BS on rail, up on ramp.

1 F U My O 5A BS, up overhanging open book. l

2 Space Cadet 5A BS under blunt arête. Up the arête. l C SS way L of jutting huge rock (on top). Start on jug & side pull jug. Traverse low R for about 20m to top 3 Unidentified Fucking Osm Traverse  6B+

out at natural spot. l UFO

© Derek Marshall 69 Damasqua (P 75)

Abatwa Cave (P 71) Khuai (P 73) Path starts opposite the road sign Park next to the sign.

© Derek Marshall 70 A B

1 6C

4 6A 2 6A 1 6A

1 6C 67 5C 5C 6 5C 3 6B+

5 6B

1 I Am Back  l 6C Hang start on rail far R. Rail all the way L then top out.

2 Top Deck 6A+ Hang start on rail far R. Move up on rails to top rail. Rail L to natural top out. C

3 Dwarf Traverse  l 6B+ Hang start on rail. Rail all the way L then top out. A 4 Another Good Time  6A Hang start on wide jug rail. Directly up. 5 Back In the Game  6B BS on low side pull & crimp, directly up on rails & through roof. 1 6 Here I Am 5C BS in crack rail, up moving L into break. 6A+

7 Wild Side 5C BS in crack rail, up moving r into break. B 1 Migration l 6A BS on rail as far R as possible, rail L for about 40m. No top out. D D 1 Dead Rhetoric l 6A+ BS in square hole under roof, up onto shelf & directly up.

1 Kick Start My Heart l 6A BS on jug rail, rail L & out over ear horn.

2 Another Good Time l 6B SS in sloper pocket, directly up. E 3 Left Behind l 6B+ BS on low rail, move R to rounded side pull. Up L to diagonal rail. Top out R. CaveAbatwa Damasqua 4 We Are The Unknown l 7A BS on slopers. Rail R & out over pimple.

Khuai F 2 D 6B E

C B 1 6A 4 Abatwa Cave 7A A 3 6B+ E E To Area 2 © Derek Marshall 71 F

6 5B 6 5B

5 1 5C 6B 4 5A 2 5C 3 7A

F

1 Full Spectrum Dominance l 5C BS on rail far L. Rail all the way R to the corner, then top out.

2 Truth to Power l 5C BS in corner, rail far R & around the corner to a top out.

3 Triggerpulse  l 7A BS in low rail, out on layers of crimps into rail. F Damasqua 4 Feckless l 5A BS on jug rail. Out L.

5 Jump Slag  l 6B BS on rails, jump to edge of roof. Top out.

6 Pride in Prejudice l 5B BS in crack rail, rail L over the square roof, around the corner & top out. Khuai F D E

C B

Abatwa Cave CaveAbatwa A

To Area 2

© Derek Marshall 72 A A

3 25C 5 25B 55 85 45 66A 15C 76A 1 5 B B

1 March in Darkness 5 BS, up the easy arête.

2 Rise Against 5C BS, up the LH crack. 36A

3 Hold the Line 5 BS, up the RH crack.

4 Against All Odds 5 BS, move R & up the easy arête.

A BS on jugs, directly up. Bottom 5 We Stand 5 boulder is out.

6 Match Point 6A BS on jugs, directly up. 5 4 7 Swim Against the Tide 6A BS on jug, rail L then top out. 6A+ 6B B 8 Might 5 BS, up the easy arête.

1 Divide & Conquer 5C BS, LH on jug, RH on pocket. Up jagged arête.

2 Unite & Prosper 5B BS on jug pocket. Directly up.

BS on jugs on RHS of Tortoise head. Legs up first & over the tortoise head, like a 3 Under Over l  6A Damasqua B gym bar movement. Fun!

4 Tortoise Sticking its Head Out l  6B BS on jugs on either side of the tortoise head. Out over the nose.

5 Tickle the Snail l  6A+ BS, LH on jug & RH out under snail neck. Out over nose. B

Khuai Khuai A F E D C

Abatwa Cave

To Area 2 © Derek Marshall 73 D E F

16B

1 True Story 5 BS on jug rail, move R & directly up. C 2 Divide & Conquer  6C BS on jug rail under arch, up into jam in middle of arch. Use the feet on the boulder behind (LHS). 3 Unite & Prosper  6C+ BS on jug rail under arch, up into jam in middle of arch, but don’t use the feet on the boulder behind (LHS).

D 1 Take Me Down  6B BS on jug rail, up the prominent crack.

Damasqua

B Khuai

A Khuai F E D C

Abatwa Cave

To Area 2 © Derek Marshall 74 A A B

46B 46B 5~7A 15 66B+ 26A+ 25 36C 26A+ 36C 15C

1 Pulp Friction 5C SS on crimp & side pull, up to the R. F 2 My Struggle  6A+ SS on jug, L into crack break. C Damasqua 3 Beta Master Craig  6C Hang start on rail crimp. Up into small crack on top. Directly up. A 4 Mine Kampf  6B SS RH on slopper, LH on high crimp. Up into small crack on top. E

5 Project ~7A BS on side pull, move L into roof & then out through the bulge. C D 6 My Jihad  6B+ BS on jug jut. Rail L on sloppers on lip. Top out on side pulls on ramp. B A 1 Alunah 5 BS on side pull, directly up. l Khuai B 3 2 Xandria 5 BS on rail, directly up. l 1 5 2 5 5C 4 ~7A 1 Control Freak 5 Hang start on jugs, directly up.

2 The World is Yours 5 SS on horn, directly up.

3 Somebody Make a Move 5C BS on two side pulls, out moving R. C 4 Project ~7A BS in side pulls. Abatwa Cave

D Damasqua SS in fist jam, rail T under block. 5 Katra 6A Through the block & top out. To Area 2

BS on corner sloper, up moving R to 1 Amberian Dawn 5C D crimp rail.

C © Derek Marshall 75 1 Clever as Cocaine 5A SS, up arête, move L to top out. E E E 2 Mother Mayhem  6A BS on side pulls, up to crimp & then dyno to top.

1 Collusion 6A SS on side pull, up into diagonal crimp rail. Directly up.

2 Craig Swartz’ List 5 SS up the arête & over the jutting rock on top.

3 Reality Connect 5 BS on jug, up rail on diagonal blunt arête.

4 Brain Fight  5 SS on low crimps, up break.

16A 5 Brain Plight 6B+ BS, match on jug. Up to rail & up Brain Fight.

6 Inqua  5C SS same as Brain Fight, traverse R for 3.5m then top out. 2 1 5 6A 7 Incubation  5C SS RH on crimp, directly up. F 8 Obiqua  5 SS on crimp, directly up. F F 9 Project ~6C BS on side pull & crimp rail. Move L & up as for Obiqua.

10 The New Wine  6C BS on jug, R to blunt arête, directly up.

11 Accelerant 4 BS on side pull, up open book.

12 Bringer of Light 5C BS on side pull, directly up. 3 5 13 Beaver Justice 6A BS on side pull, move R under roof. Through the roof.

14 We Feel Nothing 6A BS in gully, move L over ramp to under roof. Through the roof. 25 1 15 Inchanti l 5C BS on jug, move R over crack to top out. 6A 25 F Damasqua F F F E

45 C Damasqua 6 12 5C 5C B D 13 6A A 114 Khuai 85

75C 9~6C 146A 155C 56B+ 106C

Abatwa Cave

To Area 2 © Derek Marshall 76 F D D D Damasqua

D 10 4 5 5C E 5 5C 9 4 C B D 3 5 7 5 A 8 12 6A ~6C Khuai 13 5C 6 5C 11 6A 2 5 D

1 6A 2 5 ? ?

Abatwa Cave

To Area 2 Damasqua

© Derek Marshall 77 Park at gate

Farm house

Bushman Sands

© Derek Marshall 78 A B

1 5 2 3 5 5C 2 6A

3 6A

2 6A+ 1 5 4 1 3 5 6A 5 4 B ? C

1 This is the End 5 BS on jugs directly up. l

2 All Seems Lost 5 BS on jugs, rail R & top out. l A 3 Slang op My Tiete 5 BS in crack. Directly up. l

4 Into the Storm 5 BS in open book. l

1 One for All  6A BS in horizontal hand crack. 1 6B+ 2 All For One 6A BS in crack, rail R & out on nose. l 4 4 5 2 5 B 5 1 3 Gypsy Life 5C BS in crack rail L & top out. l C D 5 E

4 ? Potential, prominent crack. Gate 1 Good Old Friend 5C BS on LH edge, rail R & top out using knee hook. l

2 A Dream That’s Still Alive  6A+ BS in hole, boost R following a thin crack. F C Rail Line 3 Till I’m Back Again 6A+ BS in hole, boost directly up on thin moves. Fence 4 No Story 5 BS up easy pillar. A Paintings 1 Rock ‘n Role Band 5 BS up RH blunt arête. D 2 Crazy Train 5 BS, directly up. Stone Wall Saddle E 1 Brand New Day Tomorrow  6B+ BS on arête. Rail R & top out on nose. l

1 Love is the Glue 6A Hang start in crack, directly up. F Paintings 2 Faith & Believing 5C BS, up open book break. B

F E C D

1 6A

2 5C

© Derek Marshall 79 25C

36A 16A 1 65 6B 55 4 B B 2 5 A 6B+ 36A+

1 Buffalo Yeto Nwawa l 6A SS on crimp, bounce out R.

2 Tambotie 5C BS on side pull jugs, directly up.

3 The Terrible Ones  6A BS on side pull jugs, traverse low L & top out around the corner. A 4 Cobra 5 BS on side pull jugs, directly up. 5 Seilag 5 BS on rail, directly up. 1 6 Rise To The Sky 5 BS on crimps, directly up. 6A 3 6A+ 56B+ 7 Crack Cave 6A BS in cave crack, up the crack. 2 3 C 5 5 1 Avançar l 6B Move the ladder away. BS on knob in crack. Up the crack. 6~7A 45 2 Command & Control  6B+ SS on nubbins. Up scooped ramp trending L. B BS in off-width, up trending R, around the arête & easy ground to 3 Wendy l 6A+ the top. B 4 Lutar, Lutar l 5 SS on side pulls, directly up. C 5 The Conversation l 6B+ SS on arête crimp, up to L of arête.

BS LH on arête, up to L of arête. 6 Project l ~7A 25 35 1 The Trouble Starts l 6A+ SS on sloper crimps, up over the bulge. C Ladder 2 Savannah l 5 BS on big side pull, directly up. 65 8 75 5C 4 55 BS on RH side pull, out L over small 6A 3 First Clashes l 5 overhang. D B A C 4 Initiation Chamber l 6A BS on side pull, rail R & top out. Paintings E C 5 New Plan l 5 BS on flat table top, top out. Paintings 6 Old Roots l 5 BS on jugs.

7 New Era l 5 BS in small cave. Top out. Park 80 8 Broadcast l 5C SS on ramp, up the arête. © Derek Marshall E E E

16A 16A 25C 3~7A 4 D D 5

1 A Nossa Gloria l 6A BS on jugs, low traverse R. Top out before the nose. D 2 Without Fear l 5C BS on jugs. 3 Project l ~7A BS on under cling crimp, top out.

1 Task Force Zulu  l 6A BS on jugs, up prominent easy break.

2 Groot Skoot l 5 BS on jugs, up easy ramp. E 3 Men of Many Nations l 5 BS on side pulls, up easy ramp. 4 Of Honour l 5 BS on jugs, up easy ramp.

5 Sceptic l 5C BS on jugs, up over nose. 55

25 3 5 E

D B A Paintings E Ladder C Paintings

Park

© Derek Marshall 81