Georgia, Plus a Madrid Update Inside: Members’ Choice Special Edition

This copy is for your personal, non-commercial use only. Distribution and use of this material are governed by our Subscriber Agreement and by copyright law. For non-personal use, please contact client relations at 1-866-831-4314 or email [email protected]. THIS MONTH: EXPLORING THE REPUBLIC OF GEORGIA, PLUS A MADRID UPDATE INSIDE: MEMBERS’ CHOICE SPECIAL EDITION SEPTEMBER 2018 SINCE 1979 Traveling the world in search of truly enchanting places View of 16,512-foot Mount Kazbek from our accommodations at Rooms Hotel Kazbegi GEORGIA: AN ADVENTURE IN THE CAUCASUS Dramatic scenery, cultural riches, exotic cuisine, remarkable wines here is a certain kind of experienced Georgia if there weren’t comfortable hotels country’s extravagantly scenic landscapes Ttraveler who will revel in the unpre- and good restaurants. I am pleased to say and fascinating history. dictability of the Republic of Georgia. that I discovered several of both. Ancient Colchis in western Georgia Exploring this spectacular little country Strategically located on the Silk Road, was the home of Greek mythology’s Golden bounded by the Caucasus Mountains the country has had a complicated history. Fleece, and farther east, archaeologists and the Black Sea can be frustrating and Mongols, Ottomans, Persians and Russians have discovered evidence of winemaking baffling, but it is rarely dull. In a world have all invaded. Indeed, Russia still occu- 8,000 years ago. Wineries are everywhere, that is increasingly homogeneous, Georgia pies the Georgian territories of Abkhazia as are centuries-old Orthodox churches PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER has not yet been polished smooth, a quality and South Ossetia. Fortunately, the and hilltop monasteries. During my two- I found refreshing and grew to love. Of past decade has been peaceful, and the week visit, I could only scratch the surface, course, a little roughness goes a long way, necessary infrastructure is now in place missing attractions such as the troglodyte and I couldn’t recommend traveling to for travelers who wish to investigate the monastery of Davit Gareja, the cave city Andrew Harper editors travel anonymously and pay full rate for all lodging, meals and related expenses. Since the launch of Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report in 1979, the featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis. For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Below: The Narikala fortress and cable car, Tbilisi. Right: Entrance hall, and our room, Rooms Hotel Tbilisi “At the shady courtyard bar, I enjoyed a refreshing Feijoa Sour, a cocktail made of Design Hotels, the 125-room property with chacha, a local grappa- looks fantastic in a magazine spread, PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER like spirit. with its entry-hall library and adjacent lounge filled with fashionably mismatched furnishings. Our Terrace King Room had a of Vardzia and mountainous Svaneti, similarly stylish décor, with an industrial- known for its numerous ancient towers. inspired black-and-white bath and a wood- But the capital of Tbilisi, the wine region floored bedroom. Its terrace proved a little of Kakheti and the Caucasus Mountains too industrial for my taste, however, as it in Kazbegi provided ample compensation. faced the I-beams of a construction site. Service proved friendly and efficient, ost Georgian journeys start and for the most part. The front desk clerk mullet with young mustard greens in a Mfinish in Tbilisi. According to worked with housekeeping to give us tangy anchovy sauce. legend, King Vakhtang I founded the city access to our room hours before the offi- Rooms is not a perfect hotel, but with in the fifth century, because he was so cial check-in time, and when one of our its stylish décor and friendly staff, it is impressed by the local sulfur hot springs. Edison bulbs stopped working, a main- currently the top choice in Tbilisi. Soon, Today this city of 1.5 million is a colli- tenance man arrived within minutes. however, I suspect the best option will be sion of medieval churches, moldering Service was also swift and personable at the Stamba Hotel, a sister property nearby. mansions, repurposed Soviet-era factories the shady courtyard bar, where I enjoyed Its high-ceilinged accommodations tend to and futuristic architecture of curvaceous a refreshing Feijoa Sour, a cocktail made be much larger than those at Rooms, most glass. Certain streets, like pedestrianized with chacha, a local grappa-like spirit. of which are quite compact. But only about Erekle II in the old center and the grand Only at breakfast did the staff stumble. two months old at the time of our visit, the 19th-century boulevard of Rustaveli, have A server approached as we returned from Stamba was not ready for a review. Less been spiffed up for tourists, but the turn the buffet to tell me that the meal was not than half of its guest rooms were finished; of a corner reveals a place that is still included in our room rate. I agreed, which the rooftop pool was a work in progress; PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER suffering the aftereffects of 70 years of seemed to confuse her. “What … what and at breakfast I counted seven servers communism. Wine bars, restaurants and should I do?” she asked. And as I took my and seven chefs in the open kitchen, yet it shops mingle with abandoned historic first bite of food, another server rushed still took 20 minutes to receive a plate of buildings that scream out for renovation. over and waited for me to sign the check. overcooked scrambled eggs. The Stamba Every travel publication that covers Staff at dinner in the hotel’s The Hotel looks very promising, but I don’t Georgia these days extols the virtues of Kitchen restaurant were more organized. recommend staying there until next year. the Rooms Hotel Tbilisi, set in a former And I loved my appetizer of tortellini filled If you prefer to stay right at the edge of publishing house about 20 minutes on with smoked salmon in a lemon-dill cream Tbilisi’s old center, the Ambassadori hotel foot from the historic center. A member sauce, and my main course of grilled red provides a more traditional alternative. Its 2 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT SEPTEMBER 2018 location could not be improved. Finding enjoyably, a small family winery. At one overlooked the castle parking lot and the availability tight at the 121-room property, point we halted at a bakery specializing construction site of a new Holiday Inn. we had booked a large and expensive in shoti, bow-shaped bread cooked in a Such drawbacks aside, I can’t recall the Ambassador Suite. Intricate geometric tandoorlike tone oven. As I watched the last time I stayed in such comfortable screens along the tops and bottoms of the baker at work, Georgia’s connection to the accommodations at such a low price. floor-to-ceiling windows gave the suite ancient Silk Road felt particularly tangible. Service, however, was too casual for some sense of place, but otherwise it was A fresh loaf paired with the local feta-like my taste. And the food at dinner, while resolutely contemporary, done mostly in cheese provided a memorable snack. flavorful, was very heavy. The Erekle cream and beige, aside from the capacious We spent the night in the heart of II could become a top-quality boutique bath of orange-swirl marble. Telavi, Kakheti’s largest city, at a historic hotel, but for the moment, it’s best suited The staff of the hotel never failed to mansion just outside Batonis Tsikhe, a to wallet-conscious travelers. be helpful, but the cheerfulness I had castle where King Erekle II lived in the The more traditional Schuchmann encountered at Rooms was more elusive. 18th century. The building that is now Hotel will please a wider range of guests. The front desk personnel were serious the seven-room Hotel Erekle II served as This 20-room German-owned hotel, and reserved, and at breakfast, no one home to the king’s 24 children in the early restaurant and winery stands amid vine- greeted us as we entered, or offered to tell 19th century. Its low room rates — I booked yards on a hillside a few minutes’ drive us about the ample and well-presented one of the largest accommodations for a from Telavi. There, too, the staff were breakfast buffet. Only in the hotel’s bar, little more than $100, including break- casual, but service was less reserved and the Flamingo Lounge, did I discover staff fast — gave me some concern, as did its more attentive. with a smile. The Ambassadori is a very cheap-looking website. So it was a pleasant From our terrace’s table and chairs, we PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER comfortable and well-positioned hotel surprise to discover a stylish boutique had magnificent views of vineyards, the with an appealing spa and indoor rooftop hotel, with guest rooms that combined outdoor pool, the broad Alazani Valley and pool — amenities that Rooms lacks — but exposed-brick walls with colorful paneling the cloud-wreathed Caucasus Mountains you’ll almost certainly have more fun decorated with geometric motifs. Outside, beyond. Inside, the spacious wood-floored staying at the latter. a garden patio had views of Telavi and the Junior Suite had a simple but attractive green mountains beyond. contemporary décor. Alas, the bath felt he guide arranged by the Ambassa- Each guest room has a color theme. Our cramped, with one sink, little space for Tdori to take me into the Kakheti wine Orange Room came with high ceilings, a toiletries and a tight shower stall.

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