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THIS MONTH: EXPLORING THE REPUBLIC OF , PLUS A MADRID UPDATE INSIDE: MEMBERS’ CHOICE SPECIAL EDITION

SEPTEMBER 2018 SINCE 1979

Traveling the world in search of truly enchanting places

View of 16,512-foot Mount Kazbek from our accommodations at Rooms Hotel Kazbegi

GEORGIA: AN ADVENTURE IN THE CAUCASUS Dramatic scenery, cultural riches, exotic cuisine, remarkable

here is a certain kind of experienced Georgia if there weren’t comfortable hotels country’s extravagantly scenic landscapes Ttraveler who will revel in the unpre- and good restaurants. I am pleased to say and fascinating history. dictability of the Republic of Georgia. that I discovered several of both. Ancient Colchis in western Georgia Exploring this spectacular little country Strategically located on the Silk Road, was the home of Greek mythology’s Golden bounded by the Caucasus Mountains the country has had a complicated history. Fleece, and farther east, archaeologists and the Black Sea can be frustrating and Mongols, Ottomans, Persians and Russians have discovered evidence of baffling, but it is rarely dull. In a world have all invaded. Indeed, Russia still occu- 8,000 years ago. are everywhere, that is increasingly homogeneous, Georgia pies the Georgian territories of as are centuries-old Orthodox churches

PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER has not yet been polished smooth, a quality and South Ossetia. Fortunately, the and hilltop monasteries. During my two- I found refreshing and grew to love. Of past decade has been peaceful, and the week visit, I could only scratch the surface, course, a little roughness goes a long way, necessary infrastructure is now in place missing attractions such as the troglodyte and I couldn’t recommend traveling to for travelers who wish to investigate the monastery of Davit Gareja, the cave city

Andrew Harper editors travel anonymously and pay full rate for all lodging, meals and related expenses. Since the launch of Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report in 1979, the featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis. For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Below: The Narikala fortress and cable car, . Right: Entrance hall, and our room, Rooms Hotel Tbilisi

“At the shady courtyard bar, I enjoyed a refreshing

Feijoa Sour, a cocktail made of Design Hotels, the 125-room property with chacha, a local grappa- looks fantastic in a magazine spread, PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER like spirit. with its entry-hall library and adjacent lounge filled with fashionably mismatched furnishings. Our Terrace King Room had a of and mountainous Svaneti, similarly stylish décor, with an industrial- known for its numerous ancient towers. inspired black-and-white bath and a wood- But the capital of Tbilisi, the region floored bedroom. Its terrace proved a little of and the Caucasus Mountains too industrial for my taste, however, as it in Kazbegi provided ample compensation. faced the I-beams of a construction site. Service proved friendly and efficient, ost Georgian journeys start and for the most part. The front desk clerk mullet with young mustard greens in a Mfinish in Tbilisi. According to worked with housekeeping to give us tangy anchovy sauce. legend, King Vakhtang I founded the city access to our room hours before the offi- Rooms is not a perfect hotel, but with in the fifth century, because he was so cial check-in time, and when one of our its stylish décor and friendly staff, it is impressed by the local sulfur hot springs. Edison bulbs stopped working, a main- currently the top choice in Tbilisi. Soon, Today this city of 1.5 million is a colli- tenance man arrived within minutes. however, I suspect the best option will be sion of medieval churches, moldering Service was also swift and personable at the Stamba Hotel, a sister property nearby. mansions, repurposed Soviet-era factories the shady courtyard bar, where I enjoyed Its high-ceilinged accommodations tend to and futuristic architecture of curvaceous a refreshing Feijoa Sour, a cocktail made be much larger than those at Rooms, most glass. Certain streets, like pedestrianized with chacha, a local grappa-like spirit. of which are quite compact. But only about Erekle II in the old center and the grand Only at breakfast did the staff stumble. two months old at the time of our visit, the 19th-century boulevard of Rustaveli, have A server approached as we returned from Stamba was not ready for a review. Less been spiffed up for tourists, but the turn the buffet to tell me that the meal was not than half of its guest rooms were finished; of a corner reveals a place that is still included in our room rate. I agreed, which the rooftop pool was a work in progress; PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER suffering the aftereffects of 70 years of seemed to confuse her. “What … what and at breakfast I counted seven servers communism. Wine bars, restaurants and should I do?” she asked. And as I took my and seven chefs in the open kitchen, yet it shops mingle with abandoned historic first bite of food, another server rushed still took 20 minutes to receive a plate of buildings that scream out for renovation. over and waited for me to sign the check. overcooked scrambled eggs. The Stamba Every travel publication that covers Staff at dinner in the hotel’s The Hotel looks very promising, but I don’t Georgia these days extols the virtues of Kitchen restaurant were more organized. recommend staying there until next year. the Rooms Hotel Tbilisi, set in a former And I loved my appetizer of tortellini filled If you prefer to stay right at the edge of publishing house about 20 minutes on with smoked salmon in a lemon-dill cream Tbilisi’s old center, the Ambassadori hotel foot from the historic center. A member sauce, and my main course of grilled red provides a more traditional alternative. Its

2 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT SEPTEMBER 2018 location could not be improved. Finding enjoyably, a small family . At one overlooked the castle parking lot and the availability tight at the 121-room property, point we halted at a bakery specializing construction site of a new Holiday Inn. we had booked a large and expensive in shoti, bow-shaped bread cooked in a Such drawbacks aside, I can’t recall the Ambassador Suite. Intricate geometric tandoorlike tone oven. As I watched the last time I stayed in such comfortable screens along the tops and bottoms of the baker at work, Georgia’s connection to the accommodations at such a low price. floor-to-ceiling windows gave the suite ancient Silk Road felt particularly tangible. Service, however, was too casual for some sense of place, but otherwise it was A fresh loaf paired with the local feta-like my taste. And the food at dinner, while resolutely contemporary, done mostly in cheese provided a memorable snack. flavorful, was very heavy. The Erekle cream and beige, aside from the capacious We spent the night in the heart of II could become a top-quality boutique bath of orange-swirl marble. , Kakheti’s largest city, at a historic hotel, but for the moment, it’s best suited The staff of the hotel never failed to mansion just outside Batonis Tsikhe, a to wallet-conscious travelers. be helpful, but the cheerfulness I had castle where King Erekle II lived in the The more traditional Schuchmann encountered at Rooms was more elusive. 18th century. The building that is now Hotel will please a wider range of guests. The front desk personnel were serious the seven-room Hotel Erekle II served as This 20-room German-owned hotel, and reserved, and at breakfast, no one home to the king’s 24 children in the early restaurant and winery stands amid vine- greeted us as we entered, or offered to tell 19th century. Its low room rates — I booked yards on a hillside a few minutes’ drive us about the ample and well-presented one of the largest accommodations for a from Telavi. There, too, the staff were breakfast buffet. Only in the hotel’s bar, little more than $100, including break- casual, but service was less reserved and the Flamingo Lounge, did I discover staff fast — gave me some concern, as did its more attentive. with a smile. The Ambassadori is a very cheap-looking website. So it was a pleasant From our terrace’s table and chairs, we

PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER comfortable and well-positioned hotel surprise to discover a stylish boutique had magnificent views of , the with an appealing spa and indoor rooftop hotel, with guest rooms that combined outdoor pool, the broad Alazani Valley and pool — amenities that Rooms lacks — but exposed-brick walls with colorful paneling the cloud-wreathed Caucasus Mountains you’ll almost certainly have more fun decorated with geometric motifs. Outside, beyond. Inside, the spacious wood-floored staying at the latter. a garden patio had views of Telavi and the Junior Suite had a simple but attractive green mountains beyond. contemporary décor. Alas, the bath felt he guide arranged by the Ambassa- Each guest room has a color theme. Our cramped, with one sink, little space for Tdori to take me into the Kakheti wine Orange Room came with high ceilings, a toiletries and a tight shower stall. region was good-humored but ignored my wood floor, a vast daybed and a headboard The restaurant’s wide terrace, just itinerary suggestions entirely. Instead of with an enlarged image from a Persian below our Junior Suite, had a similarly visiting the Ikalto Monastery and Telavi’s miniature. The attractive but relatively captivating view, and it served simple, recently restored castle, we stopped by small bath provided only a shower, like all delicious , like a warm an unremarkable lake and, much more those in the hotel. And the wide balcony oyster mushroom salad with tarragon

Our bedroom and its terrace, Hotel Erekle II, Telavi Pool among the vineyards, Schuchmann Hotel, near Telavi PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

SEPTEMBER 2018 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT 3 Details of our King Erekle Suite at Hotel Kabadoni, Sighnaghi

purple liquid in the stainless-steel tub. our suite overlooked a slender ridge that

Schuchmann Hotel has a convenient pointed to the Alazani Valley far below ROOM PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER In the pretty stone-clad spa, location for sightseeing, with easy access and the distant peaks of the Caucasus. “ to a number of major monasteries as well Hotel Kabadoni’s Deluxe Rooms have I indulged in an allegedly as notable wineries such as Orgo and balconies with a similar view, but because healthful and unquestion - Khareba. I enjoyed our stay there, but of the property’s relatively low rates, ably relaxing wine bath in a overall I preferred the Hotel Kabadoni, we splurged on the King Erekle Suite. I stainless-steel tub. in the restored hill town of Sighnaghi, 75 recommend you do the same. Located in minutes southeast of Telavi. This contem- a separate building from the rest of the porary 21-room property in the town’s hotel but connected via a passage, it had pesto, wild garlic-green salad with grape- center is the best base for exploring the a cool color palette of gray and steel-blue, seed oil, and barbecued rabbit with roasted Kakheti wine region. with splashes of warmth provided by Brussels sprouts and green beans. The We spent a full day within the imme- bright-red and -orange kilims. Next to the wine list focused, understandably, on diate vicinity of the hotel, visiting the bedroom, a stylishly contemporary study Schuchmann’s own well-crafted bottlings. Bodbe Convent, set amid cypress-studded faced glass doors leading to the terrace. We had a delightful tour of the on-site gardens, and enjoying the center of Sigh- The gray-tile bath felt pleasingly spacious. winery with the personable , naghi, home to several wineries. The Hot and tired from a day of explora- Luka Bakhsoliani, who led us through unappetizingly named Pheasant’s Tears tion, we headed to the indoor pool, which a memorable tasting. It was fascinating is the most famous, and it is home to a was just big enough for laps. Later, at PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER to compare wines from the same grape cozy restaurant, where we had a delicious dinner, we shared a seasonal pickle varieties produced using Western methods lunch paired with superlative wines. I platter, which included the Georgian versus the ancient Georgian technique of also recommend visiting Okro’s, which specialty jonjoli (pickled bladdernut flower fermenting grapes in qvevri (amphorae- makes excellent natural, qvevri-fermented buds). I very much enjoyed my chakapuli like vessels buried in the earth). My wines, if only for the experience of meeting (stew) of lamb cooked in with favorite was a rich and full Saperavi, its charming American owner. In the tarragon, watercress, scallions and sour fermented in qvevri and aged in , afternoon, we followed Chavchavadze plums. And I appreciated that the hotel’s incorporating the best of both worlds. Street uphill from the hotel to an old general manager stopped by with a bottle I became even better acquainted with stone defensive tower, the top of which of Saperavi, as an apology for our driver’s Schuchmann’s Saperavi in the pretty afforded splendid views of Sighnaghi and being 30 minutes late earlier that day. stone-clad spa, where I indulged in an the surrounding valleys. allegedly healthful and unquestion- We didn’t have to make the climb to he driver arranged by Rooms Hotel ably relaxing wine bath. Instead of rose enjoy panoramas of Sighnaghi and the TKazbegi was very prompt, however, petals, grape leaves floated atop the deep countryside, however. The wide terrace of and I felt optimistic about the hotel as soon

4 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT SEPTEMBER 2018 as I saw his professional attire and smart hooks by the door, which I found rather The stood atop black Toyota Land Cruiser. We passed the frustrating. I liked the ample counter space a nearby hill, and behind us rose Mount edge of Tbilisi before continuing north in the shower-only bath, but the lighting Kazbek, gleaming with snow. From there, along the Georgian Military Highway into of the single vanity was poor. And I wished Konstantin led us to the two Gveleti the Caucasus Mountains. “Highway” is that our balcony, with two cane chairs waterfalls, before finishing the day in a strong word for the winding two-lane and ottomans, had more privacy. It was the half-abandoned village of Tsdo. At road, sometimes blocked by herds of cows. divided from the others by transparent its top is a crumbling stone watchtower, The main artery between Georgia and metal mesh. guarded by an eerie stone sculpture of a Russia, this breathtakingly scenic route In general, privacy is not a strength ram, complete with real horns wired to follows the Tetri Aragvi River, skirting of Rooms Kazbegi. The main public areas its head. Standing there, it was easy to steep mountainsides resembling great comprise a fashionably eclectic library- understand why some people think the swaths of crushed green velvet. Near the lounge running almost the length of the “Lord of the Rings” trilogy was filmed in ski resort of Gudauri, snowcapped peaks hotel, an indoor restaurant for breakfast Georgia, not New Zealand. come into view, culminating with the and dinner, and a terrace furnished with We had the foresight to book massages towering 16,512-foot Mount Kazbek. groups of sofas and armchairs. But in none in the hotel’s spa before dinner, which From its perch just above the town of of these spaces is there a dining table for were just the thing to soothe our tired legs. Stepantsminda, Rooms Kazbegi provides two. Fortunately, because the three areas My therapist, awkwardly, did not leave stupendous views of the mountain, as well were all large, we didn’t have trouble the treatment room as I disrobed and lay as Gergeti Trinity Church, its 14th-century carving out space for ourselves to dine down on the table, and when the massage towers rising improbably from a steep on the menu’s simple Georgian cuisine. was over, she simply departed without hilltop nearby. Lodgings at the back of The problems of small accommoda- a word. Here was the typical Georgian

ROOM PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER the hotel overlook a forest and mountain tions, lack of privacy and hit-or-miss food trifecta: inexpensive, rough around the ridge, but there is a relatively minor price would ordinarily cause me to dismiss a edges, but pleasurable nevertheless. As I difference between the pretty view and property. But Rooms Kazbegi’s striking reclined in a mountain-view lounger beside the truly unforgettable one. design, lively atmosphere, stupendous the lengthy indoor pool, feeling thoroughly All 155 accommodations are small, views and compelling excursions make relaxed and content, I wondered how long making it wise to reserve one of the Signa- the hotel easy to like. it would take Georgia’s top hotels, restau- ture Rooms, which provide an additional After breakfast, we met our engaging rants and guides to polish their services 100 to 150 square feet. Our Signature Room young guide, Konstantin, who spoke to an international level of shine. More felt at once stylish and old-fashioned, with excellent English. We then hiked up a polish would make it easier for me to wood floors, a king bed with a steep trail through shady forest, which provide recommendations, but it would metal frame and a love seat. Storage was eventually opened to alpine meadows also mean fewer stories to share on my limited to an antique wardrobe and some speckled with buttercups and gentians. return home. H

Details of our Signature Room (the view from which is shown on the cover), and hotel exterior, Rooms Hotel Kazbegi, Stepantsminda PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

SEPTEMBER 2018 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT 5 Georgia Notebook

A B K H A Z I A RUSSIA CASPIAN SEA 5 STEPANTSMINDA KAZBEK BLACK SOUTH 16,512 FT SEA OSSETIA GEORGIA 2 TELAVI BATUMI 1 3 SIGHNAGHI Pastries at Entrée bakery in Tbilisi TBILISI 4 TURKEY 0 100 MI GEORGIA’S DIVERSE AND FASCINATING CUISINE

0 100 KM ARMENIA A ZERBAIJAN ith its strategic location on the Silk Road, sandwiched between the Black and Caspian seas, Georgia has developed a unique culinary HOTELS AT A GLANCE W tradition, incorporating recipes from its neighbors as well as more-far-flung trading partners. The tone oven, used for baking bow-shaped shoti bread, ROOMS HOTEL TBILISI A91 (MAP REF. 1) LIKE The cheerful staff; the stylish décor; the fine restaurant. DISLIKE The location looks a lot like an Indian tandoor. A supra (feast) often includes an array is a rather long walk to the old center. GOOD TO KNOW Once it fully opens, the of dishes resembling Turkish mezzes. Pomegranate frequently appears neighboring Stamba Hotel (sister to Rooms) will offer superior accommodations. in savory recipes, as it does in Persian cuisine. And khinkali dumplings, LOWEST RATE: URBAN QUEEN, $230. EDITOR’S CHOICE: LOREN SUITE, $580. 14 MERAB KOSTAVA STREET, TBILISI. TEL. (995) 32-202-0099. ROOMSHOTELS.COM traditionally filled with soup and meat, seem quite similar to Chinese xiaolongbao. Most menus feature a wide range of tempting vegetarian AMBASSADORI TBILISI 89 (MAP REF. 1) dishes, making Georgia a surprisingly easy place to avoid meat, if not dairy. LIKE The location on the northern edge of the old center; our spacious and bright Few restaurants in Georgia offer formal presentations. In most cases, the contemporary suite. DISLIKE The reserved, sometimes standoffish staff; the nouveau-riche décor. GOOD TO KNOW The hotel’s main dining room has a new food will be plentiful, flavorful, relatively inexpensive and perfect with a menu offering “unusual fusions,” but a second restaurant serves more-traditional glass of local wine. Find recommendations for restaurants in Tbilisi and Georgian recipes. LOWEST RATE: PREMIER KING, $210. EDITOR’S CHOICE: ELEGANCE SUITE, wineries in the Kakheti region at andrewharper.com. $425. 17 SHAVTELI STREET, TBILISI. TEL. (995) 32-243-9494. AMBASSADORI.COM

HOTEL EREKLE II 88 (MAP REF. 2)

LIKE The chic and colorful renovation of a historic mansion; the central Telavi PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER location. DISLIKE The ineffective air conditioning in our room; signs of wear on some of the baths’ floors. GOOD TO KNOW There is no elevator, but one room is on the ground floor behind reception. LOWEST RATE: STANDARD ROOM, $95. EDITOR’S CHOICE: DELUXE DOUBLE ROOM WITH BALCONY, $115. 1 LIONIDZE STREET, TELAVI. TEL. (995) 59-637-7377. HOTELEREKLE.BUSINESS.SITE

SCHUCHMANN HOTEL 89 (MAP REF. 3) LIKE The tranquil location with views of the Caucasus Mountains; my relaxing wine bath in the pretty spa. DISLIKE Signs of wear in our Junior Suite, including a pocked sink and torn upholstery. GOOD TO KNOW The driver-guide booked by the hotel lacked polish; I recommend arranging for sightseeing with another company. LOWEST RATE: STANDARD ROOM, $120. EDITOR’S CHOICE: TOWER SUITE WITH BALCONY, $185. From left, khinkali dumplings at Keto and Kote in Tbilisi, and eggplant with walnut paste KISISKHEVI, TELAVI. TEL. (995) 35-023-6967. SCHUCHMANN-WINES.COM and pomegranate at Hotel Erekle II in Telavi

HOTEL KABADONI A92 (MAP REF. 4) LIKE The quiet location in the beautiful hill town of Sighnaghi; the splendid views; the prompt room service. DISLIKE Our bath was well-lit, but its gray tile felt insti- tutional. GOOD TO KNOW When arranging for transfers or sightseeing, insist on an English-speaking driver-guide. LOWEST RATE: MANSARD ROOM STREET VIEW, $120. EDITOR’S CHOICE: KING EREKLE SUITE, $355. 1 TAMAR MEPE STREET, SIGHNAGHI. TEL. (995) 32-224-0400. KABADONI.GE

ROOMS HOTEL KAZBEGI A93 (MAP REF. 5) LIKE The breathtaking views from our room; the pretty spa and large indoor pool; the extensive by-the-glass wine list. DISLIKE Even the largest accommodations are rather small; the lack of dining tables for two. GOOD TO KNOW Visit the Gergeti Trinity Church as early in the morning as possible to avoid the crowds. LOWEST RATE: DOUBLE ROOM FOREST VIEW, $220. EDITOR’S CHOICE: SIGNATURE ROOM MOUNTAIN VIEW, From left, wild mushrooms foraged in at Pheasant’s Tears winery in Sighnaghi, $330. 1 V. GORGASALI STREET, STEPANTSMINDA. TEL. (995) 32-271-0099. ROOMSHOTELS.COM and barbecued rabbit at Schuchmann Hotel, near Telavi

6 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT SEPTEMBER 2018 The Principal, right, at the edge of the lively Chueca district MADRID ON THE UPSWING New hotels, stellar gastronomy, museum discoveries

he financial crisis of 2008 hobbled in 2015, and its 76 rooms occupy several brass chandeliers, leather wing chairs and Tthe Spanish economy, but a decade floors of a handsome 1920s building just jewel-toned sofas, the lobby has an easy- later, Madrid has recovered much of its off the Gran Via. going, contemporary chic. Spanish friends PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER dynamism. Perennially vying with Barce- Arriving midmorning, we took the had told me that the hotel is popular with lona for the title of Spain’s gastronomic private elevator up to reception on the sixth Madrid’s fashion and showbiz crowds, capital, it is currently in the midst of a floor, where we received a notably cordial who come for drinks in its rooftop terrace restaurant boom. The city’s hotel scene is welcome from a smartly dressed young bar and dinner at its excellent restaurant, also thriving. The venerable Hotel Ritz front desk clerk. With red-marble floors, Ático. (There, chef Ramón Freixa creates Madrid closed for a $121 million reno- cocoa-colored walls, framed portraits, contemporary Spanish cuisine, with dishes vation in February and will reopen as a Sun-filled room at The Principal Mandarin Oriental property next year. And a new Four Seasons is slated to open on the Gran Via, the city’s main avenue, in 2019. Several distinctive and stylish smaller properties are also attracting the interest of hotel cognoscenti. One of the best things about The Principal is its location at the edge of the animated Chueca district, which has lots of one-of-a-kind boutiques, like New York’s Nolita or Los Angeles’s Silver Lake neigh- borhood. (Two favorites are Casa Postal [Calle Libertad 37] for vintage posters and Cacao Sampaka [Calle Orellana 4] for offbeat chocolates, including one with a gin-flavored filling.) The hotel opened

SEPTEMBER 2018 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT 7 like an appetizer of a creamy omelet of urbane and friendly hotel, with a fine almond ajo-blanco soup with prickly baby cuttlefish and whitebait, and mains restaurant, a glamorous bar and an ideal pear sorbet, and pork cheeks cooked in such as roasted suckling pig with vanilla- central location. . All of these spaces felt like those flavored endive.) of a stylish private club. After check-in, we were ushered to the fter a morning spent at the fasci- Upstairs, our Premium Room over- delightful balcony terrace for a coffee while A nating Museum of the Americas, looked Calle Echegaray and had two the clerk checked to see if our Junior Suite with its extraordinary collection of windows with Juliet balconies. These was ready. Fortunately, it was available Mayan, Incan and Aztec art and artifacts, spacious, well-lit and thoughtfully ahead of time. I liked our room right away. we arrived at the 48-room Gran Hotel designed accommodations came with It seemed quiet, soothing, comfortable and Inglés and immediately fell in love with satin-finished oak parquet floors, a pair well-designed. White curtains framed a this history-steeped property, which was of gray-velvet upholstered chairs at a picture window with a Juliet balcony. The built in 1853 and opened as a hotel in white-marble pedestal table, a contem- walls were adorned with black-and-white 1886. Located in the charming Barrio de porary chandelier, a writing desk and an etchings, and a writing desk stood in a long las Letras neighborhood — which takes oversize bed with a feather-top mattress alcove. A large bed came with convenient its name from the fact that Cervantes pad. A claw-foot tub occupied a corner of wall-mounted reading lamps and high- and other notable writers once lived in the dressing room alcove, and the good- quality, crisp white cotton sheets. In the the district — it has just been completely looking bath provided a single vanity set sitting area, a pair of caramel-colored renovated and now has stunning art deco- in a white-marble counter and a walk-in leather butterfly chairs were set on either inspired interiors by New York’s Rockwell rainfall shower. (Those willing to throw side of a brass-framed glass coffee table. Group. The young staff at reception were financial caution to the wind may wish to The bath had glossy black subway tiles, delightful, and we instantly felt very opt for the top-floor suite with its private a large vanity and a spacious walk-in much at home. terrace and Jacuzzi.) shower, but no tub. The dramatic lobby and bar came with The hotel’s spa uses French Anne Amenities at the hotel include a small leather Chesterfield sofas and chairs, Semonin products and offers a first-rate fitness center with Technogym equipment, tapestry carpets on herringbone oak a two-person sauna and a wellness suite, parquet floors, antique cast-iron pillars where massages and other treatments are and a dramatic circular bar located under offered. At the end of a day of sightseeing, a skylight. Unlike most hotel lobbies, this it was a pleasure to return for a cold drink one is a place where you might actually in La Terraza bar, with its panoramic choose to spend some time. Other public view of the Madrid skyline, or to spend an areas include a library with a woodburning hour relaxing at the top-floor solarium, fireplace and a restaurant,LOBO 8, where where scarlet loungers flank a burbling chef Willy Moya serves delicious contem- fountain. Overall, The Principal is an porary Spanish dishes such as chilled

Details of the art deco-inspired accommodations at Gran Hotel Inglés, located in the Barrio de las Letras neighborhood

8 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT SEPTEMBER 2018 anti-jet lag cure. And, usefully, the hotel has parking for anyone arriving in Madrid by car. Overall, the Gran Hotel Inglés is an exceptionally charming address with excellent service and superbly comfortable rooms. It is a good choice for travelers who like small properties with a unique personality and a strong sense of place.

ne of the conspicuous pleasures of Othe Spanish capital is a visit to one of its covered food markets. These lively and colorful places are great for gastronomic souvenir shopping, and they often have counter-service restaurants that serve up everything from tapas to a light lunch. The city has been assiduously renovating its markets in order to make them all-day centers of local life, and they now typi- cally offer free Wi-Fi and diversions such as cooking demonstrations. Beyond the tourist-heavy Mercado de San Miguel, The Hotel Wellington will appeal to those who prefer classic European hospitality two of my favorites are the Mercado de San Antón in the Chueca neighborhood tradition lives on, as do all of our tradi- (Calle de Augusto Figueroa 24) and the tions,” he replied graciously. delightful Mercado de la Paz in the chic Since our room wasn’t ready, we set The hotel has four dining venues, Salamanca district (Calle de Ayala 28), off to visit the Real Academia de Bellas “ including Kabuki Wellington, which is frequented by well-heeled locals. Artes de San Fernando, one of Madrid’s We popped into the Mercado de la Paz many wonderful small museums, to see its one of the best Japanese for coffee on our way to the stately Belle superb collection of paintings by Murillo, restaurants in Europe. Epoque-style Hotel Wellington, located in El Greco, Velázquez and Goya. This was the Salamanca neighborhood, just north followed lunch at Fismuler, a recently of Retiro Park. A larger property with 250 opened and very popular bistro. My meal service soon seemed entirely characteristic rooms, this is a well-run traditional hotel of rice with artichokes and baby clams, of the Wellington. with a lot of character. I hadn’t stayed followed by a Wiener schnitzel-like veal The hotel has four restaurants — there in many years, but little seemed to cutlet, was utterly delicious. Las Raíces del Wellington, a summer have changed in my absence. This prop- Returning to the Wellington in the rooftop venue that offers dishes made erty prides itself on perpetuating the best midafternoon, we were escorted to our with vegetables from the hotel’s own traditions of Old World hotel-keeping, and Junior Suite on the Wellington Club garden; Goizeko Wellington, for Basque- many staff members have worked there for floor. This was decorated in traditional style haute cuisine; La Llave de Oro, for decades. It is also a preferred address for good taste, with cream walls and thick breakfast and lighter meals; and Michelin the royal family and Spanish aristocracy. cream-colored carpeting, and furnished one-star Kabuki Wellington, one of the best My principal reason for staying here again with a writing desk, a pair of wood- Japanese restaurants in Europe, which was to see if it would be a good choice framed armchairs and a table for in-room serves exceptional seafood from Spain’s for clients of the temporarily shuttered dining. Next to a window, a chaise longue Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts. Other Hotel Ritz. overlooked the courtyard with the hotel’s amenities include a spacious spa with a At check-in, I couldn’t help but ask large outdoor pool. The well-lit bath came hydrotherapy pool. the dapper desk clerk if the Wellington with double vanities, a tub and a walk-in Overall, this is a gracious and comfort- was still a place where some matadors shower. Minutes after our arrival, an able property that will appeal to those get dressed before a bullfight. He seemed unusually charming housekeeper arrived who prefer hotels in the classic European surprised by my question, so I explained to deliver a complimentary fruit basket tradition. Habitués of the Hotel Ritz will that I had seen a matador with his cape and to ensure that we had everything we be content here until the famous grande in the lobby 20 years before. “Yes, that needed. This prompt, efficient, personal dame reopens. H

SEPTEMBER 2018 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT 9 Madrid Notebook

Sun terrace at The Principal The delightful and historic small town of Chinchón

HOTELS AT A GLANCE A DAY TRIP TO CHINCHÓN

THE PRINCIPAL A94 oledo, Segovia and Avila are the famous for the pastries made by LIKE Exceptionally stylish décor; ideal central location; consistently charming Tmost popular day trips from the nuns. The “tetas de novicia” service. DISLIKE The lack of a pool on the roof. GOOD TO KNOW The property Madrid, but recently a Spanish and “pelotas de fraile” are both attracts fashion celebrities and Spain’s media elite, so it is unsuitable for those who prefer a more low-key atmosphere. LOWEST RATE: EXECUTIVE ROOM, $440; EDITOR’S friend tipped me off to Chinchón. flavored with anisette and filled CHOICE: DELUXE ROOM, $570. MARQUÉS DE VALDEIGLESIAS 1. TEL. (34) 91-521-8743. This delightful little town — an with cream, chocolate or rasp- THEPRINCIPALMADRIDHOTEL.COM easy 45-minute bus ride from berry preserves. After wandering a stop near the Conde de Casal streets lined with old aristocratic GRAN HOTEL INGLÉS A94 LIKE Stunning interior design; the sense of history; the fine restaurant. metro station — is renowned for mansions identified by their coats DISLIKE The lack of outdoor public spaces. GOOD TO KNOW Bistronómika, an its stunning Plaza Mayor, an oval of arms, it was time for lunch excellent new seafood bistro, is within walking distance of the hotel. LOWEST RATE: space surrounded by houses with at the excellent La Recua del DELUXE ROOM, $400; EDITOR’S CHOICE: SUPERIOR ROOM, $480. CALLE ECHEGARAY 8. Pelicano, which serves a contem- TEL. (34) 91-360-0001. GRANHOTELINGLES.COM green-and-white façades and small wooden balconies, as well as its porary riff on traditional Castilian SHUTTERSTOCK / IKGM CHINCHÓN: HOTEL WELLINGTON 89 excellent food. Just 30 miles from cooking, including dishes like BAR: ALBERTO CERRATO LIKE The genuine Old World charm; attentive and gracious service; the choice Madrid, it offers a relaxing break empanadas filled with duck, dried of excellent restaurants. DISLIKE Having to sign into the Wi-Fi connection on from the big city, plus a fascinat- fruit and nuts, and wine-braised multiple occasions. GOOD TO KNOW The hotel’s restaurants are very popular, so PLAZA MAYOR: ANDRES GARCIA MARTIN / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES make reservations before you arrive. LOWEST RATE: CLASSIC ROOM, $360; EDITOR’S ing glimpse of a small, traditional beef cheeks. CUESTA DE QUIÑONES 2. CHOICE: SUPERIOR CLUB ROOM, $490. CALLE DE VELÁZQUEZ 8. TEL. (34) 91-575-4400. Spanish town that has not been TEL. (34) 91-832-0129. HOTEL-WELLINGTON.COM disrupted by tourism. Arriving midmorning, I made my way to the Detail of the Plaza Mayor in Chinchón clock tower of the old parish church MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAS of Nuestra Señora de Gracia and

irtually every visitor to Madrid heads to the Prado Museum and climbed up for the view over the FOOD PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER Vthe Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, but the wonderful Museum warren of narrow lanes. Later, I vis- of the Americas is often neglected. This contains one of the world’s ited the church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, which was sacked most spectacular collections of pre-Columbian art, including and burned by Napoleon’s troops Mayan and Incan art and artifacts that the Spanish conquistadors in 1808. The current church was brought home. Don’t miss the Madrid Codex, one of only three completed in 1828 and is a blend of surviving hieroglyphic manuscripts detailing daily Mayan life; the Gothic, plateresque, Renaissance Tudela Codex, which is comprised of indigenous paintings that and Baroque styles. Its highlight is describe the events of the Spanish conquest; and the Quimbayas the magnificent “La Asunción de Treasure, a spectacular collection of gold funerary ornaments from la Virgen,” by Goya. Afterward, I Colombia’s Quimbaya culture, which dates to the first century B.C. headed for the town’s Convento de AVENIDA DE LOS REYES CATÓLICOS 6. la Madres Clarisas, which is locally

10 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT SEPTEMBER 2018 FIVE BARS NOT TO MISS

adrid has become a cocktail- Mloving town, with venues ranging from old-fashioned tascas (taverns) to hip new bars.

1862 Dry Bar — Barman Alberto Martinez serves perfectly made classic cocktails at this popular spot in Triball, one of Madrid’s liveliest nightlife districts. Its name pays tribute to the year when the first-ever

Artichokes and clams at Bistronómika in the Barrio de las Letras, and 1862 Dry Bar in Triball book of cocktails was published, “The Bon Vivant’s Companion or How to Mix Drinks,” by American MADRID RESTAURANT SUGGESTIONS mixologist “Professor” Jerry

Thomas. CALLE DEL PEZ 27 The gastronomic scene in Madrid is one of the liveliest in Europe, with recent reboots of famous estab- lishments and a spate of openings from talented young chefs. Bodega de la Ardosa — This atmospheric old tavern in the BISTRONÓMIKA FISMULER Chueca district has vermouth on tap, plus a great tapas menu that This small, casual restaurant in the heart of the A talented team of young Spanish chefs who worked can include salmorejo (a purée of Barrio de las Letras near the Puerta del Sol serves in Scandinavia are serving intriguing Iberian dishes tomatoes, bread, oil and garlic from a chalkboard menu of seafood dishes that changes with a Nordic influence at this easygoing new bistro. Cordoba), an exceptional tortilla daily according to what the chef finds in the markets. It’s a good bet for lunch, with dishes like chickpeas de patatas, and croquetas with Dishes like braised artichokes and baby clams, and with beef, crayfish and watercress, or smoked-beef various fillings like béchamel and roasted sea bream show off the kitchen’s commit- steak tartare with Cajun spices. CALLE DE SAGASTA 29. carabineros (deep-sea prawns), or ment to impeccably fresh seafood. The service is TEL. (34) 91-827-7581. aromatic Cabrales (blue cheese from

CHINCHÓN: IKGM / SHUTTERSTOCK / IKGM CHINCHÓN: warm, friendly and English-speaking. CALLE SANTA Asturias). CALLE DE COLÓN 13

MARÍA 39. TEL. (34) 91-138-6298. HORCHER

BAR: ALBERTO CERRATO Del Diego Cocktail Bar — The This elegant restaurant founded in 1943 by a German sons of founder Fernando del Diego LA CANDELA RESTÒ from Berlin is celebrating its 75th anniversary this PLAZA MAYOR: ANDRES GARCIA MARTIN / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES continue to make this one of the best year. The sumptuous dining room (where men Young chef Samy Alí Rando won a Michelin star this bars in the capital, with a list of 70 year for his imaginative modern Spanish cooking. are still expected to wear jackets) has a coffered (mostly classic) cocktails, including Rando, who was born to a Spanish mother and ceiling, French doors, Bordeaux-colored walls and a selection of mocktails without a Sudanese father, has a cosmopolitan palate generously spaced tables dressed in white linen alcohol. CALLE REINA 12 that’s reflected in his ingenious use of spices, as and fine tableware. Sample dishes like artichokes well as unexpected pairings of ingredients on his stuffed with mushrooms, shrimp carpaccio with Salmon Guru — Many Madrileños regularly changing tasting menus. Inventive dishes mango, roast duck with almond croquettes, and consider this delightful bar in the FOOD PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER Chueca district to be the city’s best. like barbecued octopus with popcorn, and smoked lobster ragu with black truffles.CALLE DE ALFONSO Its strong point is the really inventive, pigeon sashimi are served in a stylish, candlelit XII 6. TEL. (34) 91-522-0731. some might say eccentric, modern dining room. CALLE DE LA AMNISTIA 10. TEL. (34) 91-173-9888. cocktail list. CALLE ECHEGARAY 21 O’PAZO COQUE The service can be brusque at this clubby and quietly Taberna de Ángel Sierra — This The Sandoval brothers’ chic restaurant, which they elegant restaurant, but it’s worth overlooking the charming century-old bar with a just moved from suburban Humanes into the heart hauteur to experience some of the most expertly frescoed ceiling and huge barrels of the city, is the hottest ticket in Madrid right now, prepared seafood in Madrid. Inspect the catch of of vermouth, sherry and wine with so book as far in advance as possible. Don’t miss the day on display before you’re seated, and then spigots serves excellent tapas. It appeared in the 1995 movie “The their famous suckling pig, an especially succulent opt for dishes like king prawns from Sanlúcar, grilled Flower of My Secret,” by Pedro version of this Spanish specialty. CALLE DEL MARQUÉS Cantabrian lobster, and hake in a green sauce. CALLE Almodóvar. CALLE DE GRAVINA 11 DEL RISCAL 11. TEL. (34) 91-604-0202. REINA MERCEDES 20. TEL. (34) 91-553-2333.

SEPTEMBER 2018 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT 11 Post Ranch Inn MEMBERS’ CHOICE 2018 Each year we ask subscribers to tell us about their favorite hotels and resorts. And here are the winners.

ndrew Harper members are a remarkable group: Worldly, successful, highly educated and unusually A affluent, they take an average of 32 days of vacation annually and spend more than $62,000 on travel each year. Many stay exclusively in the hotels and resorts that our editors have identified as among the 1,000 finest in the world. One striking characteristic is their loyalty to a small number of iconic properties: the best of the best worldwide. Winners in this year’s Members’ Choice survey include resorts such as California’s Post Ranch Inn and Petit St. Vincent in the Caribbean, which have been recommended by Andrew Harper for multiple decades. Members also show consistent devotion to the exquisite boutique properties of AMANGIRI: COURTESY OF AMAN POST RANCH INN: KODIAK GREENWOOD the Aman Resorts group, which currently has 31 destina- POST RANCH INN: KODIAK GREENWOOD tions in 21 countries. Expense is a secondary consideration and distance is no object. Harper members travel routinely to every corner of the globe. Asked to name the three places topping their bucket lists, they identified New Zealand, Japan and Patagonia. Mauna Kea Beach Hotel

MORE HOTEL WINNERS ONLINE Find out your second and third choices, plus additional categories including Most Stunning Beach, Most Amazing View, Most Indulgent Spa and Most Romantic Atmosphere, at andrewharper.com/members-choice.

12 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT MEMBERS’ CHOICE 2018 The main pool at Amangiri

Favorite Hideaway Hotel With the Most Incredible Pool POST RANCH INN AMANGIRI Big Sur, California Canyon Point, Utah

ost Ranch Inn is simply magical. Set t took an act of Congress to obtain the rights to build here, Phigh above the Pacific in Big Sur, this I on 600 acres of wind-swept terrain high in the Utah desert. peerless resort is a longtime favorite And while the severity of the architecture may blend perfectly of Andrew Harper members. Voted the with the stark surroundings, it’s the main pool, which wraps

number one hideaway eight years in a around a jutting sandstone mesa, that is the resort’s most Other water-based highlights: row, it was finally dethroned in 2016 — by extraordinary feature. Amangiri topped our editors’ list of The 25,000-square-foot spa one vote. Now it has recovered its crown. “The World’s Most Stunning Hotel Pools,” so why wouldn’t it be offers “flotation therapy,” which enables guests to experience The 39 suites and one cliffside house on number one for our members? Few places have ever embodied weightlessness in water from the 100-acre property feature outdoor the phrase “desert oasis” so completely. the Dead Sea. hot tubs, woodburning fireplaces, private entrances and stupendous views. Also

AMANGIRI: COURTESY OF AMAN notable is what is absent: alarm clocks, POST RANCH INN: KODIAK GREENWOOD POST RANCH INN: KODIAK GREENWOOD televisions and guests under 18. All Hotel With the Most Memorable Restaurant reminders that Post Ranch Inn is first and foremost about rediscovering tranquility. LE BRISTOL PARIS Paris, France What makes it truly special: With around 150 employees, the ven in Paris it’s hard to compete with four Michelin stars, resort has one of the highest staff- which is what the 190-room Le Bristol boasts between its to-guest ratios in the world. E one-star brasserie, 114 Faubourg, and its three-star Epicure. A self-described “temple of gastronomy,” Epicure serves French haute cuisine in a light-filled dining room overlooking The dish people cross oceans for: macaroni stuffed the hotel’s inner garden. The service is impeccable, the wine with black truffle, artichoke list is sensational and the menu is inventive and ever-changing. and foie gras.

MEMBERS’ CHOICE 2018 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT 13 Members’ Choice 2018

Islet off Petit St. Vincent Torres del Paine mountains seen from explora Patagonia

Where You Felt the Most Unplugged Most Exciting Adventure Activities PETIT ST. VINCENT EXPLORA PATAGONIA St. Vincent and the Grenadines Patagonia, Chile

n this 115-acre private island the 22 spacious cottages his luxury wilderness lodge is the perfect base O and villas have no telephones, televisions or Wi-Fi. T for exploring the magnificent Torres del Paine Instead, the property has its own communication system: National Park. In addition to treks of the W Circuit, Fly a red flag for privacy and a yellow flag for room service the region’s most famous hike, the property offers or transportation. Free from electronic distractions, guests more than 40 half- and full-day guided excursions can explore the turquoise waters in a glass-bottom kayak on foot, horseback and by catamaran. Guests

How to improve on or snorkel through the rainbow of coral reefs. A dive center venture through lenga forests and across pampas perfection: The island run by Jean-Michel Cousteau (son of the famed filmmaker) to arrive at majestic views of the Paine massif’s is available for exclusive provides scuba instruction and PADI certifications for all granite towers and glaciers. Treks vary in length use and makes an idyllic venue for the ultimate levels. And there’s sure to be time for yoga in one of the and difficulty, but all offer opportunities to view FOGO ISLAND EXTERIOR: BENT RENÈ SYNNEVÅG beach wedding. open-air pavilions or for a snooze in a tree-slung hammock. the region’s extensive wildlife, including guanacos, pumas and more than 100 bird species.

Why you should saddle up: explora Patagonia Most Welcoming Hotel for Kids is the only hotel in the area with its own horses — more than 20 — which are raised in central Chile and trained on-site.

MAUNA KEA BEACH HOTEL SINGITA BOULDERS LODGE: ROSS COUPER / COURTESY OF SINGITA Kohala Coast, Hawaii FOGO ISLAND ROOM: ALEX FRADKIN oconut weaving, lei making and shell hunting are just a C few of the resort’s diversions for children. Year-round, kids ages 5 to 12 can partake in half-day or full-day activity Activities unavailable programs. Parents, many of whom grew up coming to Mauna anywhere else: hiking to lava tubes and moonlight Kea themselves, know that their children are being thoroughly manta ray viewing. entertained while learning a little about island life.

14 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT MEMBERS’ CHOICE 2018 Fogo Island Inn

Hotel That Most Most Culturally Connected Hotel Made You Feel Special FOGO ISLAND INN BALLYFIN DEMESNE Fogo Island, Newfoundland County Laois, Ireland he celebration of island culture — in fact, to prevent et on 614 landscaped and wooded acres, this T it from dying out after the collapse of the cod S 19th-century manor house is nothing if not fishing industry — is central to the inn’s purpose. In grand: Gilded plaster ceilings, marble columns this architecturally stunning hotel, seemingly perched How to learn more about the and inlaid mosaic tiles decorate the six reception at the edge of the world, the furnishings are created culture: The hotel’s 37-seat cinema features a series rooms; an 80-foot library contains 5,000 volumes; by local craftspeople, quilts and rugs are handmade, of short films; on excursions and chefs prepare gourmet meals from the local and museum-quality art and antiques adorn every guests learn about local public space. All this, with only 20 bedrooms, which meat and fish. trades and traditions. means that while Ballyfin may be elegant and formal,

FOGO ISLAND EXTERIOR: BENT RENÈ SYNNEVÅG guests also feel right at home.

Why check-in is unforgettable: A row of staff Most Spectacular Wildlife Experience members greets guests on the front steps as they arrive, “Downton Abbey”-style. SINGITA BOULDERS LODGE Mpumalanga, South Africa

SINGITA BOULDERS LODGE: ROSS COUPER / COURTESY OF SINGITA ingita Boulders Lodge offers some of the best game- Sviewing in Africa. In addition to the Big Five — lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, buffalo — guests are virtually FOGO ISLAND ROOM: ALEX FRADKIN certain to see hippo, cheetah and hyena, as well as dozens of spectacular bird species. Morning and afternoon game drives are aboard top-of-the-line Land Rovers, outfitted with tiered seats for unobstructed viewing. Later, guests How to get a closer look: Take can retreat to their cottage suite to stargaze from a private a walk with an armed guide and viewing deck while lions roar in the distance. track animals on foot.

MEMBERS’ CHOICE 2018 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT 15 LAST WORD LEFT RIGHT!

t is a well-known Parisian anomaly Ithat all the city’s celebrated grand hotels are located on the Right Bank of the Seine, including the 10 that enjoy officially sanctioned “palace hotel” status. But it wasn’t always this way. The Hôtel Lutetia is located in the 6th arrondissement, and when it opened in 1910, it was considered the last word in contemporary luxury. It quickly became a favorite of the French cultural elite. Charles de Gaulle chose it for his wedding night MEMBER PHOTO CONTEST WINNER CONTEST PHOTO MEMBER Lioness and cub at Zarafa Camp in Botswana, photo by Janet McDavid. See all the winners at andrewharper.com/photo-contest. in 1921. In the 1930s, both Picasso and Matisse lived at the Lutetia. But New & Noteworthy then came World War II, and the hotel acquired a darker reputation, after having been requisitioned by the RURAL EDEN ZIMBABWE UPGRADE MILAN PALAZZO Abwehr, the Nazi counterespionage Country house hotels changed Zimbabwe is one of Africa’s Although Milan has long service charged with destroying the face of travel in Britain. most beautiful countries, boasted distinguished grand the French Resistance. Following The latest addition to the and only years of political hotels, its boutique options the war, the property never quite genre, Heckfield Place, will and economic turmoil have have been somewhat limited. recovered its former status. Until open in September. Located prevented its safari industry However, they have recently now, that is. On July 12, the Lutetia reopened after a four-year, $234 in Hampshire, a 90-minute from becoming as successful been augmented by the million renovation. A new central drive southwest of London, as that of neighboring 43-room Senato Hotel Milan. courtyard admits light to the public the 47-room property is Botswana. Now, hoping for Housed within a neoclassical areas. The number of rooms has surrounded by 400 acres of better times, safari companies palazzo, its serene accom- been reduced from 234 to 184, grounds. It has taken 10 years have begun to invest. The modations come with white and the property now boasts a to restore the Georgian red- latest example of such opti- walls, herringbone oak floors 7,500-square-foot spa with a 55-foot brick mansion. Two restau- mism is the refurbishment of and Carrara marble baths. indoor pool. The beloved Brasserie rants will be under the super- Singita Pamushana Lodge, The Senato Caffè serves a Lutetia will reopen later this year, vision of acclaimed Austra- a superlative eight-suite “deliberately simple” menu overseen by Michelin three-star chef lian chef and food writer retreat surrounded by the of local specialties, and the Gérald Passédat. And I’m told that Skye Gyngell. And in addi- Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve. dining room extends into a the Hôtel Lutetia will soon apply for palace hotel status. So it seems that tion to traditional country Both the accommodations secluded courtyard. Other the Right Bank monopoly has finally pursuits such as horseback and public areas have been amenities include a small been broken. riding and fly-fishing, Heck- restyled with a muted palette gym and a top-floor solarium. field Place will host cultural and natural materials to events, including lectures and reflect a more contemporary ANDREW HARPER HOTEL RATINGS

concerts. sensibility. Two new suites, A99-100 A truly great hotel, among the finest of its kind in the world each with two bedrooms and A96-98 An exceptional hotel of great individuality and distinction Heckfield Place a private pool, have been A93-95 An outstanding hotel of genuine sophistication created to meet the needs of A90-92 A fine hotel with considerable charm about which we have minor reservations families. And a new bar and 89 & Below A hotel that did not meet the required standard fire pit have been added to the A minimum score of 90 is required to become a recommended hotel and to be included in The Andrew Harper Collection. Find all of our recommended hotels at AndrewHarper.com. lodge’s panoramic terrace. The Hideaway Report (ISSN 0884-7622) is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 4214 Medical Parkway, These upgrades will enhance Suite 200, Austin, Texas 78756. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. a property that was already POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. MEMBER: If the Post Office alerts us that your periodical publication is one of the most distinctive undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. Copyright 2018 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, and stylish in Africa. reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher.

FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING IS AVAILABLE TO MEMBERS AT (800) 375-4685 OR [email protected].