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Amarone Della Valpoli- Masi 2003 Mazzano (Amarone $72 Fortified Rutherglen Muscat and Tokay ages peacefully in a shed at Campbells. 14 I AUSTRALIA 55 I SPAIN 50 additional reviews 72 additional reviews available online available online 17 I CHILE 61 I CALIFORNIA 2011 FEBRUARY 54 additional reviews 156 additional reviews available online available online 24 I ALSACE 86 I NEW YORK 26 additional reviews 9 additional reviews available online available online 27 I RHÔNE 88 I OTHER U.S. 22 additional reviews 176 additional reviews available online available online 29 I ITALY 90 I SPIRITS 367 additional reviews available online 92 I BEER 51 I PORTUGAL GUIDE 63 additional reviews available online FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM ITALy’s greaT AMARONES AND RIPASSOS 148 Wines rated 90 points or higher HAS P CALIFORNIA “bURGUNDy” E C Nearly 100 top Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs K/ C O R K WALLA WALLA, WASHINGTON C I Cayuse and Charles Smith lead pack of 140 wines M O BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM T PHO BUYING WineMag.com | 65 Australia UNIQUE FORTIFIEDS FROM DOWN UNDER oing back to Australia’s early days as a fied to stop the fermentation and preserve the British colony in the 19th century, fortifi- desired level of residual sugar. Following fortifi- Gcation was the only way to ensure its cation, they’re then aged in wooden vessels of Cayuse 2007 En Chamberlin exported wines would remain stable over their varying sizes until they’re blended for sale. The 100Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla); long ocean journeys. And as recently as the prized Rare bottlings may contain small amounts $65. In a stunning lineup of Cayuse Syrahs, the 1960s, there was still a large domestic market for of wines up to a hundred years old, although an En Chamberlin wins by a nose. It’s smooth and fortified wines—both dry Sherry-styled wines average of 30–50 years is more common. Grand silky, with a tongue-bending blend of flavors that and sweet Muscats, Tokays and tawnies. Muscats often represent an attractive level of include blood and iron, umami and salt, at first As part of a 2009 trade agreement with the compromise between the expense, intensity and overtaking the pure fruit, but adding tremendous European Union, Australia has agreed to phase complexity of Rare bottlings and the relative sim- depth and power. The endless finish unfolds into out the use of certain label terms, including plicity of the entry-level Rutherglen Muscats. a wine with exotic spices and complex layering. Tokay. Going forward, Rutherglen Tokays will be Great as the Rutherglen wines are, other known either by the grape’s varietal name, Mus- regions of Australia are also capable of turning cadelle (a nomenclature already adopted by out fine fortified wines of their own. Australian Chambers) or Topaque. Australian “Sherries” will tawnies are often blends of Grenache, Shiraz and travel under the moniker of Apera, while “Ports” Mataro (Mourvèdre), but may include bits of will be known simply by their style—vintage or other varieties as well. They’re generally labeled tawny. with an average age, so that consumers have This month’s Buying Guide looks at the sweet some idea what style to expect. styles, which are the predominant type of Aus- Elsewhere in this month’s Buying Guide, don’t tralian fortifieds available in the United States. miss our globe-spanning reviews of table wines. The Muscats and Topaques of Rutherglen are After all, you’ll need something to drink before Charles Smith 2007 Royal City harvested late, partially fermented and then forti- dessert. Cheers! —JOE CZERWINSKI 99 Stoneridge Vineyard Syrah (Columbia Valley); $140. Depth and texture dominate; it’s all whole-cluster fruit, aged in new whelming. Imported by Click Wine Group. Cel- barriques. This fine follow-up to the 2006 fea- MUSCAT lar Selection. —J.C. tures a little more delicacy, with a lovely floral component and some earth. The depth is aston- Chambers Rosewood Vine- Chambers Rosewood Vineyards ishing in the weight and texture and the way the 100 yards NV Rare Muscat (Ruther- 95 NV Grand Muscat (Rutherglen); wine plays out across the palate. The finish never glen); $300/375 ml. Not a Cellar Selection in $100/375 ml. The Grand level of Chambers’ ends: a glorious mix of black cherry, earth, herb, the traditional sense of requiring additional aging, offerings may be the best compromise between spice, and rock. Cellar Selection. this venerable wine (it contains some material expense, rarity and quality. This Grand Muscat over 100 years old) is ready to drink now, but boasts knockout scents of dried flowers, tea should hold in the bottle indefinitely. It’s dark leaves and rancio, while the flavors are date-like in sweet intensity but accompanied by floral qual- coffee-brown, with delectable aromas of rancio, ities and impeccable freshness. Imported by Old pressed flowers, molasses and honey, yet despite Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selection. —J.C. enormous concentration avoids excessive weight. Amzingly complex and fresh on the neverending R.L. Buller & Son NV Rare Calliope finish. Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Muscat (Rutherglen); $84/375 ml. Selection. —J.C. 94 Rich and viscous, this glass-staining, deep brown Williams Selyem 2008 Litton wine is loaded with notes of coffee, toffee and Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russ- Campbells NV Merchant Prince 98 dried fruit. Pronounced rancio character marks ian River Valley); $100. This is the best of 97 Rare Muscat (Rutherglen); the nose and lingers on the long, complex finish. the winery’s new releases, both for drinking now $97/375 ml. A deep mahogany in color, the Imported by Southern Starz, Inc. —J.C. and for cellaring. Combines power and elegance, Merchant Prince Rare Muscat boasts dense date, with upscale flavors of cherries, currants, cola, fudge and molasses components balanced by ran- Yalumba NV Museum Reserve rhubarbs, dried herbs and oak, wrapped into cio, citrusy accents and even some floral notes. 92 Muscat (South Australia); $19/375 devastatingly rich tannins and a perfect touch of Despite being incredibly sweet and sticky, there’s ml. Yalumba’s Muscat includes some lots from acidity. Should age well for 10 years. Cellar a freshness to it that keeps it from being over- Continued on page TK Selection. 2|WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 Williams Selyem 2008 Hirsch Vine- Zenato 2004 Riserva Sergio 97 yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); 95 Zenato (Amarone della Valpoli- Masi 2003 Mazzano (Amarone $72. Dazzles with richness, offering waves of cella Classico); $130. Gorgeous, rich and pen- 94 della Valpolicella Classico); $170. candied, tart raspberry and cherry fruit, Dr. Pep- etrating, this wine excels in terms of the elegance Mazzano is a very special expression of Amarone per, exotic Indian spice, rose petal and sandal- of its aromas. Layers of black fruit, spice, with seamless integration and persistency. The wood flavors, as well as undefinable feral things. mesquite, beef jerky, cola and soy sauce are per- beauty is that it delivers power and elegance, Absolutely dry and high in acidity, with over- fectly integrated and the wine shows plump, ripe intensity and sophistication without missing a whelming complexity, it’s a milestone. Drink now richness on the close. Promises to age 10 years or beat. There are firm tannins here followed by soft through 2014; could go way beyond. more. Imported by Winebow. Cellar Selection. layers of spice, leather and ripe fruit. Imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. Pepper Bridge 2007 Cabernet Williams Selyem 2008 Allen Vine- Domaine Weinbach 2008 94 Sauvignon (Walla Walla); $55. This 96 yard Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- 94 Altenbourg Pinot Gris (Alsace); nicely captures the structural strengths of the ’07 ley); $78. A joy to drink now, and will develop $48. Rich and sweet wine in character with a vintage. It’s a muscular wine, with excellent depth over a decade or more. A dry, pure, focused wine Vendange Tardive. It is gorgeous and opulent, and polish. In the mouth it displays exceptional whose intricately detailed cherry, cola and cran- while balanced and elegant. The acidity is in won- Cabernet/Bordeaux character, in the context of berry flavors are enhanced by minerally things derful contrast to the smoky honey and orange bright Washington fruit. Vivid and aromatic, with from the earth and a near-perfect application of zest flavors. A hint of bitterness suggests, for sure, a lifted palate that blends and matches dark cassis oak. Changes by the second in the glass, ever fas- that this wine will be even more wonderful when fruit and mixed herbs with hints of the 50% new cinating. Cellar Selection. aged. Imported by Vineyard Brands. Cellar oak. Age this for decades. Cellar Selection. Selection. Dry Creek Vineyard 2007 Beeson 95 Ranch Zinfandel (Dry Creek Val- Laetitia 2008 Reserve du Domaine ley); $34. The vineyard is on winding, pictur- 94 Pinot Noir (Arroyo Grande Valley); Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2007 esque West Dry Creek Road, and is comprised of $40. Brilliant and delicious. Shows the elegant 94 Artemis Cabernet Sauvignon very old vines. In the wrong hands these low- dryness of a superior Arroyo Grande Pinot, with (Napa Valley); $55. Here’s a Cab to put in the yielding grapes might have been mishandled, but massively ripe and complex flavors of black and cellar. It’s big and rich and frankly sensational, Dry Creek Vineyard knows Zinfandel. The result red cherry pie, raspberry and strawberry jam, just massive in blackberries, currants and sweet is superb, spectacular, the essence of old vine beef jerky, cola and smoky oak. Wonderful and dark chocolate. The tannins are fierce, but very Sonoma. Rich, dry and pure, it’s enormously glamorous and fun, yet serious.
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