Fortified Rutherglen Muscat and Tokay ages peacefully in a shed at Campbells.

14 I australia 55 I Spain 50 additional reviews 72 additional reviews available online available online 17 I chile 61 I california 54 additional reviews 156 additional reviews available online available online 24 I alsace 86 I new york 26 additional reviews 9 additional reviews available online available online 27 I rhône 88 I other U.S. 22 additional reviews 176 additional reviews available online available online 29 I italy 90 I spirits 367 additional reviews available online 92 I beer 51 I portugal 63 additional reviews available online for additional ratings and reviews, visit buyingguide.WineMag.com

Italy’s great amarones and ripassos 148 Wines rated 90 points or higher california “burgundy” Nearly 100 top Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs walla walla, Washington Cayuse and Charles Smith lead pack of 140 wines o m i c k r k/ e p has buyingguide.winemag.com t Pho FEBRUARY 2011 BUYING GUIDE FEBRUARY WineMag.com | 65 Australia UNIQUE FORTIFIEDS FROM DOWN UNDER oing back to Australia’s early days as a fied to stop the fermentation and preserve the British colony in the 19th century, fortifi- desired level of residual sugar. Following fortifi- Gcation was the only way to ensure its cation, they’re then aged in wooden vessels of Cayuse 2007 En Chamberlin exported wines would remain stable over their varying sizes until they’re blended for sale. The 100Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla); long ocean journeys. And as recently as the prized Rare bottlings may contain small amounts $65. In a stunning lineup of Cayuse Syrahs, the 1960s, there was still a large domestic market for of wines up to a hundred years old, although an En Chamberlin wins by a nose. It’s smooth and fortified wines—both dry Sherry-styled wines average of 30–50 years is more common. Grand silky, with a tongue-bending blend of flavors that and sweet Muscats, Tokays and tawnies. Muscats often represent an attractive level of include blood and iron, umami and salt, at first As part of a 2009 trade agreement with the compromise between the expense, intensity and overtaking the pure fruit, but adding tremendous European Union, Australia has agreed to phase complexity of Rare bottlings and the relative sim- depth and power. The endless finish unfolds into out the use of certain label terms, including plicity of the entry-level Rutherglen Muscats. a wine with exotic spices and complex layering. Tokay. Going forward, Rutherglen Tokays will be Great as the Rutherglen wines are, other known either by the grape’s varietal name, Mus- regions of Australia are also capable of turning cadelle (a nomenclature already adopted by out fine fortified wines of their own. Australian Chambers) or Topaque. Australian “Sherries” will tawnies are often blends of Grenache, Shiraz and travel under the moniker of Apera, while “Ports” Mataro (Mourvèdre), but may include bits of will be known simply by their style—vintage or other varieties as well. They’re generally labeled tawny. with an average age, so that consumers have This month’s Buying Guide looks at the sweet some idea what style to expect. styles, which are the predominant type of Aus- Elsewhere in this month’s Buying Guide, don’t tralian fortifieds available in the United States. miss our globe-spanning reviews of table wines. The Muscats and Topaques of Rutherglen are After all, you’ll need something to drink before Charles Smith 2007 Royal City harvested late, partially fermented and then forti- dessert. Cheers! —JOE CZERWINSKI 99 Stoneridge Vineyard Syrah (Columbia Valley); $140. Depth and texture dominate; it’s all whole-cluster fruit, aged in new whelming. Imported by Click Wine Group. Cel- barriques. This fine follow-up to the 2006 fea- MUSCAT lar Selection. —J.C. tures a little more delicacy, with a lovely floral component and some earth. The depth is aston- Chambers Rosewood Vine- Chambers Rosewood Vineyards ishing in the weight and texture and the way the 100 yards NV Rare Muscat (Ruther- 95 NV Grand Muscat (Rutherglen); wine plays out across the palate. The finish never glen); $300/375 ml. Not a Cellar Selection in $100/375 ml. The Grand level of Chambers’ ends: a glorious mix of black cherry, earth, herb, the traditional sense of requiring additional aging, offerings may be the best compromise between spice, and rock. Cellar Selection. this venerable wine (it contains some material expense, rarity and quality. This Grand Muscat over 100 years old) is ready to drink now, but boasts knockout scents of dried flowers, tea should hold in the bottle indefinitely. It’s dark leaves and rancio, while the flavors are date-like in sweet intensity but accompanied by floral qual- coffee-brown, with delectable aromas of rancio, ities and impeccable freshness. Imported by Old pressed flowers, molasses and honey, yet despite Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selection. —J.C. enormous concentration avoids excessive weight. Amzingly complex and fresh on the neverending R.L. Buller & Son NV Rare Calliope finish. Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Muscat (Rutherglen); $84/375 ml. Selection. —J.C. 94 Rich and viscous, this glass-staining, deep brown Williams Selyem 2008 Litton wine is loaded with notes of coffee, toffee and Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russ- Campbells NV Merchant Prince 98 dried fruit. Pronounced rancio character marks ian River Valley); $100. This is the best of 97 Rare Muscat (Rutherglen); the nose and lingers on the long, complex finish. the winery’s new releases, both for drinking now $97/375 ml. A deep mahogany in color, the Imported by Southern Starz, Inc. —J.C. and for cellaring. Combines power and elegance, Merchant Prince Rare Muscat boasts dense date, with upscale flavors of cherries, currants, cola, fudge and molasses components balanced by ran- Yalumba NV Museum Reserve rhubarbs, dried herbs and oak, wrapped into cio, citrusy accents and even some floral notes. 92 Muscat (South Australia); $19/375 devastatingly rich tannins and a perfect touch of Despite being incredibly sweet and sticky, there’s ml. Yalumba’s Muscat includes some lots from acidity. Should age well for 10 years. Cellar a freshness to it that keeps it from being over- Continued on page TK Selection.

2|WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 Williams Selyem 2008 Hirsch Vine- Zenato 2004 Riserva Sergio 97 yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); 95 Zenato (Amarone della Valpoli- Masi 2003 Mazzano (Amarone $72. Dazzles with richness, offering waves of cella Classico); $130. Gorgeous, rich and pen- 94 della Valpolicella Classico); $170. candied, tart raspberry and cherry fruit, Dr. Pep- etrating, this wine excels in terms of the elegance Mazzano is a very special expression of Amarone per, exotic Indian spice, rose petal and sandal- of its aromas. Layers of black fruit, spice, with seamless integration and persistency. The wood flavors, as well as undefinable feral things. mesquite, beef jerky, cola and soy sauce are per- beauty is that it delivers power and elegance, Absolutely dry and high in acidity, with over- fectly integrated and the wine shows plump, ripe intensity and sophistication without missing a whelming complexity, it’s a milestone. Drink now richness on the close. Promises to age 10 years or beat. There are firm tannins here followed by soft through 2014; could go way beyond. more. Imported by Winebow. Cellar Selection. layers of spice, leather and ripe fruit. Imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selection.

Pepper Bridge 2007 Cabernet Williams Selyem 2008 Allen Vine- Domaine Weinbach 2008 94 Sauvignon (Walla Walla); $55. This 96 yard Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- 94 Altenbourg Pinot Gris (Alsace); nicely captures the structural strengths of the ’07 ley); $78. A joy to drink now, and will develop $48. Rich and sweet wine in character with a vintage. It’s a muscular wine, with excellent depth over a decade or more. A dry, pure, focused wine Vendange Tardive. It is gorgeous and opulent, and polish. In the mouth it displays exceptional whose intricately detailed cherry, cola and cran- while balanced and elegant. The acidity is in won- Cabernet/Bordeaux character, in the context of berry flavors are enhanced by minerally things derful contrast to the smoky honey and orange bright Washington fruit. Vivid and aromatic, with from the earth and a near-perfect application of zest flavors. A hint of bitterness suggests, for sure, a lifted palate that blends and matches dark cassis oak. Changes by the second in the glass, ever fas- that this wine will be even more wonderful when fruit and mixed herbs with hints of the 50% new cinating. Cellar Selection. aged. Imported by Vineyard Brands. Cellar oak. Age this for decades. Cellar Selection. Selection.

Dry Creek Vineyard 2007 Beeson 95 Ranch Zinfandel (Dry Creek Val- Laetitia 2008 Reserve du Domaine ley); $34. The vineyard is on winding, pictur- 94 Pinot Noir (Arroyo Grande Valley); Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2007 esque West Dry Creek Road, and is comprised of $40. Brilliant and delicious. Shows the elegant 94 Artemis Cabernet Sauvignon very old vines. In the wrong hands these low- dryness of a superior Arroyo Grande Pinot, with (Napa Valley); $55. Here’s a Cab to put in the yielding grapes might have been mishandled, but massively ripe and complex flavors of black and cellar. It’s big and rich and frankly sensational, Dry Creek Vineyard knows Zinfandel. The result red cherry pie, raspberry and strawberry jam, just massive in blackberries, currants and sweet is superb, spectacular, the essence of old vine beef jerky, cola and smoky oak. Wonderful and dark chocolate. The tannins are fierce, but very Sonoma. Rich, dry and pure, it’s enormously glamorous and fun, yet serious. Bring on the ahi fine, and the overall balance is impeccable. Too complex in briary, peppery wild berries, with a tuna tartare. astringent now, even with decanting, but should delicious edge of sweet raisins. Drink now for easily improve in the bottle throughout the next sheer deliciousness. Editors’ Choice. decade. Cellar Selection.

WineMag.com | 3 J Vineyards & Winery 2008 Robert 93 Thomas Vineyard Pinot Noir Viader 2007 Red Wine (Napa Val- Adelaida 2007 The Glenrose Vine- (Russian River Valley); $50. One of the most 94 ley); $100. This lush wine epitomizes 93 yard Reserve Syrah (Paso Robles); instantly delicious Pinots of the vintage. Comes the modern Napa style of soft richness and $55. A Syrah that puts many more famous bot- from the northern, warmer part of the valley, and extreme drinkability when young. Made from tlings to shame. It’s a little soft, but wonderfully shows perfectly ripe fruit flavors of cherries, cran- Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, it’s rich and complex in berry, cherry, prosciutto, berries and Dr. Pepper, made richer with sweet beautiful now for its blackberry, black currant, anise, white pepper and sandalwood flavors that smoky oak. Should hold in the bottle for 4–5 dark chocolate and cedar flavors. For all its go on and on, and finish is long and spicy. Not an years. approachability, it should age well for the next six ager, but a beautiful wine to drink now. to eight years.

J Vineyards & Winery 2008 93 Nicole’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russ- Vineyard of Pasterick 2005 Syrah David Sterza 2006 Amarone della ian River Valley); $50. Here’s a luscious, deli- 94 (Dry Creek Valley); $38. Kudos to 93 Valpolicella Classico; $40. This is a cious Pinot Noir for drinking now. It’s made in the winery for holding this estate grown wine beautiful Amarone that opens with elegant and the modern style of soft ripeness, and features back for five-plus years. The wine is now softly not overdone aromas of mature fruit, cherry cola, upfront cherry, cranberry, sweet fig and sandal- dry and enormously complex, showing blackberry cigar box, spice and toasted nut. Acidity, spice, wood flavors, with a tangy dusting of Indian and cherry liqueur flavors that are beginning to heat and smooth tannins show excellent balance spices. The acidity and tannins are near perfect. age into drier, earthier notes of dried fruits and on the close. Imported by The Italian Wine Drink now–2016. minerals. Cofermentation with some Viognier Trader. adds the perfect touch of bright, citrusy acidity.

Williams Selyem 2008 Precious 94 Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir Herdade do Esporão 2007 Masi 2003 Serego Alighieri Vaio (Sonoma Coast); $90. Tough, acidic and tight 93 Esporão Private Selection Gar- 93 Armaron (Amarone della Valpoli- in youth, offering little in the way of richness. So rafeira (Alentejo); $60. A big, black-colored cella Classico); $77. Vaio Armaron is a rich tart, so minerally, so dry. A wine that demands wine, high on mint aromas, this is wonderfully and opulent Amarone with oak-driven tones of time in the cellar. Should reward the patient after chewy and concentrated. It revels in its smooth spice, leather and tobacco that stand in pretty six years or so, to allow things to resolve so the texture over a powerfully tannic character. Big, contrast against the wine’s fresh berry fruit. The cherry, cranberry and rhubarb flavors can trans- black, brooding fruits are complemented by mouthfeel is dense, velvety and long. Imported mogrify. It would not be surprising for this wine superripe acidity, bitter chocolate and a firm by Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. to develop bottle nuance for well more than a aftertaste. Age for 4–5 years. Imported by Espo- decade. Cellar Selection. rao Wines. Cellar Selection.

4|WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 Sobriquet Winery 2009 Pinot Noir Williams Selyem 2008 Ferrington Cumbre of Vine Hill 2007 Hicks 93 (Santa Maria Valley); $48. A daz- 93 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson 92 Family Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa zlingly good Pinot that shows fresh, delicious fla- Valley); $62. Awkward now, with all the compo- Cruz Mountains); $59. This has been the win- vors right out of the bottle. Floods the mouth nents apart. Lots of oak here, ripe jammy fruit ery’s best Pinot Noir, and it shows its superiority with raspberries, cherries and spicy red licorice, there, acidity kicking in midpalate, tannins lock- once again in the richness and excellent struc- beautifully married with sweet, buttery oak. Irre- ing down the finish. A very fine wine, rich, exotic ture. Appeals immediately for intricate raspberry, sistably good, and made to drink now with a and masculine, with a spine of steel, but it needs cherry, mineral and sandalwood flavors, then fur- char-broiled steak. time. Best after 2013. Cellar Selection. ther inspires for the complex tannin and acid interplay. These mountain Pinots age well. Drink now–2015.

Williams Selyem 2008 Bucher Williams Selyem 2008 Peay Vine- 93 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River 93 yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); Valley); $54. The acidity and dryness on this $56. Shows the exotic power of the vineyard, Cumbre of Vine Hill 2007 Raffaelli Pinot stand out. It’s not a blockbuster, but keeps with wild cherry, raspberry, cola and spice flavors, 92 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz its exuberance under tight control, offering tanta- and the crisp acidity of the far Sonoma Coast. But Mountains); $59. A very rich and intricate lizing cherries, currants, cola and Indian spices, not one you want to drink now. It’s tight, dry, min- Pinot Noir, full-bodied and fairly tannic, yet with wrapped in a cloak of minerals. Very elegant, erally, aloof. Needs time. Definitely a wine to cel- a delicately silky texture. Shows fully-ripened detailed and silky. Lovely now, with a good lar until at least 2014. Cellar Selection. fruit flavors of cherries and raspberries, with decant, and should develop complexity over the spice and oak complexities. Good now, but could next 10 years. Cellar Selection. blossom after 2012–2013.

Williams Selyem 2008 Eastside Williams Selyem 2008 Weir Vine- 93 Road Neighbors Pinot Noir (Russ- 93 yard Pinot Noir (Yorkville High- ian River Valley); $49. Not quite as concen- lands); $56. A great Weir from Williams Flora Springs 2009 Barrel Fer- trated as the winery’s single-vineyard bottlings, Selyem, showing a complex balance on the warm- 92 mented Chardonnay (Napa Val- but nearly so, and showing the signature dryness, cool-climate spectrum. It’s very ripe in blackber- ley); $30. What a pretty Chardonnay. Complex acidity and overall classy mouthfeel. Beautiful ries and cherries, but crisp in acidity, firm in and intricate, it has detailed pineapple, golden and complex, with raspberry, cherry, pomegran- tannins, and totally dry. Balanced and delicious mango and pear flavors that suggest very ripe ate, rhubarb, rose petal and cola flavors that are- but young, this wine will benefit from six years in growing conditions. Yet it’s dry and balanced in varietally correct. Drink now–2014. a proper cellar. Cellar Selection. the finish, not jammy. Don’t drink this beauty too cold.

WineMag.com | 5 Yalumba NV 92 Museum Reserve Antique Tawny 21 Years Old (South Australia); $50/375 ml. Comes across as slightly spirity on the nose, with a pronounced nutty char- acter that persists throughout, Muga 2005 Selección Especial but which is balanced by Herdade do Esporão 2009 Esporão 92 (Rioja); $43. Smells slightly exotic and layers of dark toffee, molasses 92 Private Selection (Alentejo); $25. different from the norm; the nose offers baked and date-like fruit on the An oak-aged wine that is velvet textured, the acid- black-fruit scents, lemon peel, rubber and East- palate. This is rich and sweet, ity a fresh addition to the rich, opulent fruit. Full ern spices. Pure and driving on the palate, with with great intensity on the fin- in the mouth, it is flavored with ripe lime juice and good acidity and woodsy, complex flavors of ish. Imported by Negociants mango. The aftertaste is rich, spicy and delicious. blackberry, coffee and licorice. Snappy and pure USA, Inc. Imported by Esporao Wines. Editors’ Choice. on the finish; drink from 2011 through 2016. Imported by Fine Estates from Spain.

Paul Dolan 2007 92 Cabernet Sauvi- Yalumba NV gnon (Mendocino 92 Museum Reserve County); $25. A terrific Muscat (South Australia); Cabernet that shows vast $19/375 ml. Yalumba’s Mus- improvement over the win- cat includes some lots from ery’s earlier efforts. In fact, outside Rutherglen, but it’s you could place it next to far still an excellent example of more expensive Napa bot- fortified Muscat, featuring Masi 2003 Campolongo di Torbe tlings. It’s dry and elegantly hints of caramelized cherries 92 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- tannic and complex, show- and a sweet, complex mélange sico); $155. Because Masi releases its Campo- ing blackberry, currant, violet, herb and cedar fla- of caramel, toffee and choco- longo di Torbe cru expression of Amarone many vors that bring to mind a fine Bordeaux. Drink late balanced by citrusy fresh- years later than the competition, the wine has now with upscale fare. Editors’ Choice. ness. Imported by Negociants had time to develop its tertiary aromas of sweet USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. spice, polished stone, licorice, rum cake and can- died fruit. Overall, it’s hugely intense and persist- ent on the finish. Imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners.

Williams Selyem 2008 Vista Verde 92 Vineyard Pinot Noir (San Benito County); $54. One of the best Vista Verde Artesa 2009 Chardonnay Matetic 2008 EQ Syrah (San Anto- Pinots ever from Williams Selyem. Ripe and deli- 91 (Carneros); $18. Artesa’s dual fermen- 92 nio); $43. Evidence is showing that cious, with cherry, raspberry and sandalwood fla- tation approach, in which oak-barrel and stain- Matetic is rising to the top of Chile’s Syrah moun- vors, and a tang of minerals and flowers that less-steel-tank fermentation are used, has tain. This is a floral, heady, deep wine with bold come from the vineyard. Feels a little awkward resulted in this startlingly appealing Chardonnay. black fruit aromas. Boldness is key throughout, now, so give it 5–6 years in the cellar. Cellar Braced with Carneros acidity, it shows mineral- and the palate delivers pure wild berry, black- Selection. infused orange, lemon and mango flavors, with a berry and cassis flavors. Smooth yet powerful; a smooth coating of toasty oak. voluminous wine with class and character. Drink now through 2014. Imported by Quintessential Wines. Editors’ Choice.

6|WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 Santa Carolina 2007 Herencia Barossa Jack 2008 Shiraz Herdade do Esporão 2009 91 Carmenère (Peumo); $90. Dark as 91 (Barossa); $28. This wine hides its 91 Esporão Reserva (Alentejo); $20. night, with mildly leafy, herbal, varietally appro- 14.9% alcohol well under layers of plush cassis and Smooth, unctuous and rich, this is a gorgeous priate aromas of olive, earth, tea and black fruits. blueberry fruit. Cedar, vanilla and cinnamon add wine that offers ripe peach and pineapple fruits The palate is big but nicely chiseled, with good to its complexity, enhanced by hints of cracked to go with the fine acidity and hint of spice. acidity and tannic support for roasted berry, pepper and marinated beef. This is supple in Ready to drink now, it could age. Imported by plum, fig and peppery flavors. A smooth, correct texture and broad in the mouth without being Esporao Wines. Editors’ Choice. high-end Carmenère. Drink now through 2013. overly weighty. Drink now–2017. Imported by Imported by Carolina Wine Brands USA. Vintage Point. Editors’ Choice.

Cono Sur 2008 20 Barrels Syrah Laetitia 2009 Estate Chardonnay 91 (Limarí Valley); $24. This new wine 91 (Arroyo Grande Valley); $18. From Williams Selyem 2008 Hawk Hill from the Limarí Valley is a head-turner. The color one of the coolest vineyards on the Central Coast, 91 Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian is black but it’s not overweight or overdone. The this Chardonnay’s acidity is brisk and bright. It River Valley); $50. Made in the ultraripe style nose has mild animal and leather notes along with provides a balance to the enormously rich, long that is Williams Selyem Chardonnay, this wine savory blackberry, and the palate is full of boysen- hangtime flavors of pineapples and other fruits almost needs to be enjoyed by itself as a cocktail. berry, dark plum, licorice, pepper, chocolate and that are tropical in their exotic richness. New oak It’s explosive in apricot jam, pineapple tart, pear espresso. Long and lingering, with thick legs. provides the perfect touch of caramel and vanilla crême brûlée, buttered toast and cinnamon spice Drink now through 2011. Imported by Vineyard toast. A great price for a Chardonnay this good. flavors that feel fat and dry and slightly hot in Brands. Editors’ Choice. Editors’ Choice. alcohol. Not particularly subtle, but earns points for sheer power.

Ramirez de la Piscina 2005 Frog’s Leap 2008 Zinfandel (Napa 91 Reserva (Rioja); $20. With aromas of Allegiance 2008 Red Wine (Napa 91 Valley); $27. A first rate Zinfandel. It moss, balsam wood, baked berry and earth, this is 90 Valley); $36. Strongly flavored, lacking shows the classic structure, dryness and tannins a complex, interesting Rioja that’s overdelivering perhaps some nuance but makes up for it in of a fine Napa Valley Cabernet, yet the pepper, for $20. The palate is lush, soft and easy, but also sheer power. Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, with baking spice and wild berry fruit and currant fla- pure and flavorful as the fruit runs deep and some Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, it wows vors are uniquely Zin. And look at that alcohol, meaty. Finishing notes of licorice, dark spice and with blackberry, cassis, blueberry and cherry fla- under 14%. Drink this robust, complex wine with lasting berry fruit will make you happy you went vors that finish dry and spicy. A good structure of steaks, beef stew, tamales. here. Drink now through 2013. Imported by Fine tannins and acids suggests limited time on the Estates from Spain. Editors’ Choice. cellar. Drink now through 2014.

WineMag.com | 7 J Vineyards & Winery 2008 Pinot Banknote 2008 The Vault (Napa Cono Sur 2007 20 Barrels Caber- 90 Noir (Sonoma Coast); $50. Defines 90 Valley); $32. A lovely wine to drink 90 net Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); a coastal style of ripe full bodiedness and bold now. It’s soft, dry, balanced and complex, with $24. A nice, powerful Cab with mocha, truffle, fruit, although there’s a certain generic quality. berry, cherry, beef jerky, black pepper and spice forest floor, cassis and vanilla aromas preceding a Offers masses of cherry and blueberry pie, root flavors, and a sweet coating of smoky oak. Zinfan- pretty palate of cassis, coffee and toast. The beer, orange zest, red licorice and pie spices, with del, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, in roughly texture is just right and the finish is long and easy, a lovely overlay of sweet, smoky oak. Yet could equal parts. with furry tannins that don’t bite. A supple wine offer a little more individuality and identity. that shows the best side of Maipo Cabernet. Drink now. Drink now–2013. Imported by Vineyard Brands.

La Playa 2007 Axel Syrah (Colch- Barnard Griffin 2008 Lot 411 90 agua Valley); $20. A big and meaty 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Dierberg 2007 Estate Pinot Noir Syrah that separates itself from the competition Valley); $17. Forward and tasty, with violets on 90 (Santa Maria Valley); $40. Very dry via inviting aromas of blackberry and lemon peel. the nose and a friendly mix of plum, cherry and and tannic, showing the freshly-crushed Asian It’s even better in the mouth, where dark, smoky, cassis fruit, dotted with cut tobacco, and finished spices of the Santa Maria Valley. Full-bodied and generous black-fruit flavors rule. Finishes classy, with exceptionally smooth and polished tannins. a little heavy at this point, offering ripe raspberry, with coffee, chocolate and fig notes. Robust and There are chocolaty barrel notes and a seamless- cherry, currant and anise flavors. Give it a few rewarding Syrah from Chile. Imported by Caber- ness to the whole wine that shouts quality all the years to mellow. net Corporation. way. Editors’ Choice. Dry Creek 90 Vineyard 2007 Old Vine Zin- fandel (Dry Creek Valley); $28. A little soft and heavy, but dry, with rich, extracted fla- vors of berry jam, red licorice, milk chocolate and pepper spice. It’s a Bertani 2006 Villa Arvedi very good, robust Zin- 90 (Amarone della Valpolicella Val- fandel for drinking with Masi 2006 Costasera (Amarone pantena); $40. Villa Arvedi is an excellent start- barbecue and short ribs. 90 della Valpolicella Classico); $60. up Amarone for those who love this distinctive Amarone Costasera is the perfect choice for those Italian wine without the exaggerated brawn and who are not already familiar with this unique cat- bulk it sometimes shows. This expression delivers egory of Italian wine. The wine is extremely bal- elegant intensity that comes forth as cassis syrup, anced and well integrated with elegant tones of blackberry, spice, leather and smoked redwood. ripe berry fruit and spice. It also promises to pair Imported by Palm Bay International. with beef, lamb or pork. Imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners.

8|WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 Matetic 2008 Corralillo Syrah (San 90 Antonio); $28. Purple in color, with Tedeschi 2008 Capitel San Rocco Marquee 2008 Signature big, grapy aromas that fold in meatiness, warmth 90 (Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso); 88 Chardonnay (Yarra Valley); $15. A and power. The palate is a jammy blast of con- $23. Tedeschi presents a beautifully balanced lively, balanced wine at an accessible price point, centrated black fruit, herbs and lighter citrus Ripasso with a successful contrast between ele- Marquee’s 2008 Signature Chard boasts aromas along the edges. Lush on the back side, and prob- gance and power. The aromas here recall mature of smoke, vanilla and stone fruit and flavors that ably more bold and forceful as opposed to refined fruit, spice, leather and Spanish cedar and the follow along similar lines, with white peach and or elegant. Drink now through 2012. Imported wine offers a long, thick and soft finish. Imported pineapple coming to the fore. Drink now–2012. by Quintessential Wines. by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Imported by Marquee Artisan Wines.

Perrin & Fils 2007 Peyre Blanche 90 Cairanne (Côtes-du-Rhône Vil- Zocker 2009 Paragon Vineyard lages); $25. This Cairanne bottling is a solid 90 Grüner Veltliner (Edna Valley); Wakefield Estate 2008 Chardon- addition to the Perrin family’s operation, featur- $20. A beautiful wine with a spine of steel and 88 nay (South Australia); $17. Wake- ing slightly lifted aromas of crushed herbs, trenchant acidity that demands savory, spicy field is a reliable producer of Clare Valley wines, cracked pepper and ripe cherries. Flavors of foods. It’s brilliantly ripe in mineral-infused and the Chard is no exception. Toasted nuts min- cherries and dried spices fill the mouth, with just Meyer lemon and spicy green melon, and while gle easily alongside grilled pineapple and peach enough dusty tannins to provide structural it’s technically dry, has a rich, honeyed sweetness. notes, and the almost plush texture of this wine integrity and modest longevity. Drink now–2017. Entirely unoaked. Editors’ Choice. gives it another dimension. Contains 4% Viognier. Imported by Vineyard Brands. Editors’ Choice. Drink now. Imported by Taylors Wines.

Marquee 2007 Signature Shiraz 88 (McLaren Vale); $20. Marked by Sartori 2006 Amarone della Valpo- violet-like scents and touches of pepper-cured Bolla 2007 Le Poiane (Valpolicella 90 licella; $40. Classy and elegant, with meat, this is an intriguing Shiraz. It’s full bodied 87 Classico Superiore Ripasso); $14. tight, polished tannins and bright aromas of red and creamy in texture, with flavors of blackberry If you aren’t familiar with Ripasso (a hybrid wine cherry, exotic spice and tobacco. A very food- liqueur and licorice. Its only failing is that it that borrows elements from austere Amarone friendly wine, this could match dishes from seems to fade a bit quickly on the finish. Drink and informal Valpolicella), this selection from lasagna to lamb chops. Imported by Banfi Vint- this luscious Shiraz over the next year or two. Bolla is an excellent introductory wine. It opens ners. Editors’ Choice. Imported by Marquee Artisan Wines. with a deep-ruby color and bright aromas of red cherry, cola, spice and leather. It ends with both sweet and spicy nuances. Imported by Banfi Vint- ners. Editors’ Choice.

WineMag.com | 9 Noilly Prat Orig- BESTBUYS 83 inal French Dry (Noilly Prat, Marseillan, France); 18% abv, $10. Apple-juice golden yellow in hue, with a smoky, fruity, slightly mentholated scent. This vermouth braces up with ice, becoming more Castle Rock 2009 Pinot Noir (Mon- dry and citrusy. Cono Sur 2008 Visión Carmenère 87 terey County); $13. A lighter style 89 (Cachapoal Valley); $14. An impres- Pinot made to drink now, and the price makes it a sive Carmenère for the price. The nose is true to good value. It’s elegant and silky, with nice rasp- the variety, with tobacco, olive, carob and herbal berry, cola and cherry flavors. Production was aromas mixing with ripe berry aromas. It’s jammy 50,000 cases, making it easy to find. Editors’ BESTBUYS as well as juicy, and the flavors of black cherry, Choice. plum and mocha are healthy and bright. Clean and long on the finish. Imported by Vineyard SPIRITS Brands.

Carpano Antico For- 95 mula (Distillerie Branca, Turin, Italy); 16.5% abv, $30/L. This dark, mysteri- ous vermouth is rich, complex and layered, boasting aromas of Barnard Griffin 2009 Chardonnay Domaine Bahourat 2008 Costières mint and other herbs, plums 90 (Columbia Valley); $14. Barnard 89 de Nîmes; $12. A delicious example of and figs, reminiscent of Griffin is family-owned, yet competes, both in Costières de Nîmes, this blend of 80% Syrah and Madeira. The rich flavors are terms of price and quality, with the biggest winer- 20% Grenache combines bright raspberry fruit hard to pin down: cocoa, red ies in the state. This Chardonnay is reliable year with hints of garrigue for a taste experience that’s wine, almonds, bitter mar- in and year out, but is especially fine in 2009, notable for its complexity. The tannins are supple, malade, hints of spice and tof- with wonderful definition. Fresh herbs, crisp while the long finish features hints of chocolate. fee all play across the palate, green apple and citrus fruit, a full, spicy, tangy The review is of the “white label” wine, but the finishing with a bracing bitter edge. This mouthfeel, and above all, a lingering and clean importer claims the wine is identical to that delectable sweet vermouth would shine in a finish, make this a terrific value. under the Cuvée Elisabeth label above. Imported Manhattan. by Bourgeois Family Selections. Hogue 2009 Punt e Mes (Distillerie 90 Gewürz- 93 Branca, Italy); 16% traminer (Columbia abv, $25. This sweet vermouth Valley); $11. Very fine, is deep and intriguing, from the full and fruity, this is a dark winy color to the plummy, remarkably flavorful wine. raisin-like fragrance. A fleeting It captures just a hint of sweetness, redolent of dried fruit the floral/soapy side of the and juicy prune notes, gives way grape, but brings in deli- to a dry, bitter finish, which saves cious fruit flavors of peach Deen De Bortoli 2008 Vat 4 Petit it from becoming cloying. and pear and melon and 88 Verdot (South Eastern Australia); Medium to heavy in feel. Very more, a luscious mix that $13. A bit austere, with an astringent edge, this easy drinking, especially with ice, continues to resonate right requires pairing with rare beef or lamb to show and it’s easy to imagine sipping on through a powerful finish. It’s just slightly off- its best. There’s a lifted, slightly floral aspect to this, well chilled, on a hot day. dry, but not really sweet. the aromas, followed by crisp cherry fruit and a Highly Negroni-worthy. dusting of firm tannins. Drink now, but this also could be a wine that makes for a pleasant sur- prise in 4–5 years. Imported by De Bortoli Wines USA Inc.

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 BESTBUYS BESTBUYS BESTBUYS

Hogue 2009 Root:1 2008 88 Pinot Grigio 88 Cabernet Sauvi- (Columbia Valley); $11. gnon (Colchagua Valley); Another fine effort in a $12. A very good value-priced continuing series of out- Cab with fresh tomato, herb, standing PGs from Hogue. black cherry, blackberry and This is tart and stylish, earthy aromas. The palate is loaded with citrus and healthy and stands up to Calina 2009 Reserva Chardonnay bracingly acidic. Flavors scrutiny, while the flavors of 87 (Casablanca Valley); $10. Calina meld lemon, lime, lemon cassis, berry, chocolate and usually makes a nice value Chardonnay, and this verbena, orange peel and a pepper are correct and more vintage is no different. The wine has a chunky slice of pear. than pleasant. Long and last- dry-peach opening, which is backed by a round, ing on the finish. The best smooth palate and flavors of sweet pear, baked Hogue 2009 Root: 1 Cab to date. Imported apple and roasted corn. Honey and orange notes 88 Sauvignon by Winebow. make cameo appearances. Good for the price. Blanc (Columbia Val- Imported by Sovereign Wine Imports. ley); $11. Happily the fumé has been discarded Hogue 2008 and it’s simply labeled 87 Cabernet Sauvi- Sauvignon Blanc, as it gnon (Columbia Val- should be. The blend ley); $11. Scents of includes 6% Sémillon, the blueberries and darker wine is finished with a fruits come with a curious screw cap, and the flavors floral/citrus top note, but in are crisp and quite refresh- the mouth the wine is all ing. Melon, grapefruit, a fruit and berries. The blend little snippet of pineapple Willm 2009 Réserve Riesling includes a splash of Syrah and overall a mouth-cleaning liveliness make this 88 (Alsace); $13. Crisp and steely, and Lemberger, along with an excellent wine for sipping or with lighter touched by white perfumes and intense acidity, a little bit of Merlot, but it’s entrées. this is a wine with a sharp blade of flavors that cut clearly Cab dominated. through the texture. Apples, citrus and kumquat Black olive, smoke, earth all blend attractively together. Imported by Cellar and firm tannins give it a feeling of authority in Door Selections. Best Buy. the mouth and through the finish.

Paso a Paso 2009 Verdejo (La 88 Mancha); $10. The best Paso a Paso white yet; it’s ripe and smells of pineapple and melon, while the palate is pure and has a solid Bodegas Tarima 2009 Monastrell McManis 2009 Syrah (California); feel. Flavors of apple, peach and pithy citrus are 87 (Jumilla); $8. Rubbery and roasted, but 87 $10. Here’s a fresh, delicious Syrah for honest, and the finish is clean. Delivers what it not too much so. Otherwise one should look for drinking now. It’s lush and smooth in black rasp- should and more. Imported by Fine Estates from medicinal berry aromas followed by flavors of berry and cherry purée, fennel, beef jerky and Spain. baked plum, prune and black pepper. The finish black pepper flavors, backed up with a juicy hit of is dense, a touch flat, and chocolaty; overall this is acidity. a chunky, sweet performer. Imported by Fine Estates from Spain.

WineMag.com | 1 1 BESTBUYS BESTBUYS outside Rutherglen, but it’s still an excellent example of fortified Muscat, featuring hints of caramelized cherries and a sweet, complex J. Portugal mélange of caramel, toffee and chocolate bal- 86 Ramos 2009 anced by citrusy freshness. Imported by Nego- Loios (Alentejano); ciants USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. $10. Soft, attractive wine whose lightness is R.L. Buller & Son NV Fine Muscat belied by its 14% alco- 91 (Victoria); $15/375 ml. Buller’s entry- hol. That makes it bal- level Muscat blend sourced from inside and out- anced, the black cherry side Rutherglen itself is a terrific value. It’s flavors well integrated perfumed yet full bodied and rich, with sweet McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate with the easy tannins, notes of golden raisins and dried figs, as well as 87 2008 Chardonnay (South Eastern light spice and acidity. darker hints of dates and molasses. Imported by Australia); $11. Crisper and tighter than most Drink this year. Imported by Winebow. Southern Starz, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. other Australian Chards in this bracket, this value-priced offering from McWilliams features Campbells NV Muscat (Ruther- ample flavors of pear, citrus and toasty hints of 90 glen); $19/375 ml. Fresh and vibrant, wood. Drink now. Imported by McWilliam’s with perfumed, orange-like aromas, this is an Hanwood Estate. BESTBUYS excellent introduction to the Rutherglen Muscat style. It’s not as full bodied or rich as some SPIRITS versions, but instead shows off the youthful com- ponents of the blend, ending with pronounced Martini Rosato citrus notes. Imported by Click Wine Group. 89 (Martini, Italy); Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 15% abv, $10. Rosy pink, as the name suggests. Ini- Chambers Rosewood Vineyards tially has a sour aroma, fol- 90 NV Muscat (Rutherglen); $16/375 lowed by some underlying ml. Chambers’s entry-level Rutherglen Muscat is sweet and fruity notes. a wonderful wine in its own right, and a relative Sweet flavors of strawberry bargain among sweet wines. It’s floral and berry- Rocland Estate 2007 Ass Kisser and pomegranate juice like on the nose, with a viscous mouthfeel and 87 Fine Red Wine (South Australia); with a faintly bitter and caramel flavors that carry hints of berry fruit, $10. This blend of Petit Verdot (40%), Grenache refreshing finish and honey and citrus. Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. (29%), Shiraz (29%) and Mataro (2%) ends up medium body. This ver- Editors’ Choice. —J.C. being a pleasing recipe at an even more pleasing mouth would be pleasing price. Mulberry, plum and vanilla flavors emerge in a sparkling wine fizz. Seppeltsfield NV Grand Muscat from the glass, while the mouthfeel is full and lush. 89 (Rutherglen); $40/500 ml. Rich and Probably best over the next year or so. Imported Martini & Rossi sweet, with raisin and mushroomy notes and a fair by Rocland Wine Imports. 84 Rosso (Martini, bit of rancio character. Long and sticky on the fin- Italy); 15% abv, $8. ish. Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. Hogue 2009 Medium brown, with a 86 Chardonnay tangy aroma tinged with a Seppeltsfield NV Cellar No. 9 Mus- (Columbia Valley); $11. note of dried fruit. Flavors 86 cat (Rutherglen); $25. A medium- Surprisingly full bodied, are sweet, like figs and bodied Rutherglen Muscat, lacking the richness fruit loaded and instantly dates, finishing relatively and complexity of old examples, but offering raisin appealing, this new dry with a bitter star-anise and orange zest flavors and admirable freshness. Chardonnay from Hogue note. Ice coaxes out more Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. mixes generous flavors of sweetness and a pleasant apple and butter, toasted plumminess. almonds and a little spice. TOKAY/MUSCADELLE

Campbells NV Isabella Rare Tokay 98 (Rutherglen); $97/375 ml. Dark amber in color and going greenish at the rim, the basis of this wine is clearly old stocks going back

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 THE WINE ENTHUSIAST well over 60 years. It’s full-bodied, unctuous and but not overbearing. Imported by Click Wine BUYING GUIDE superrich, oozing with molasses and rancio char- Group. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new acter, but balanced by citrusy notes. The finish is releases and selected older wines evaluated by Wine Enthu- siast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. On a reg- incredibly sweet and long, coating the mouth Chambers Rosewood Vineyards ular basis the Buying Guide includes reports on special with coffee-like essences that linger for minutes. 89 NV Muscadelle (Rutherglen); tastings and the wines of specific producers. Regular contrib- $16/375 ml. utors to our Buying Guide include Senior Editor/ Tasting Imported by Click Wine Group. Cellar Selec- Thickly textured and potently Director Joe Czerwinski, Assistant Tasting Director Lauren tion. —J.C. sweet, this dark brass-colored wine presents hints Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Contributing of dried fig and citrus, turning almost honey-like Editor Michael Schachner and Contributing Reviewer Jean Reilly in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bor- Chambers Rosewood Vineyards on the slightly warm finish. Imported by Old deaux, Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, Contributing NV Rare Muscadelle (Rutherglen); Bridge Cellars. —J.C. Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland and Contributing Editor 97 Paul Gregutt in Seattle. If a wine was evaluated by a single $300/375 ml. Incredibly concentrated and reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear, the wine was evaluated by two or intense, this dark coffee-colored wine coats the more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the glass and the palate with waves of luxuriously OTHER FORTIFIEDS input of all tasters. Each review contains a score, the full name of the wine, sweet, raisiny flavors. Layers of complexity follow its suggested national retail price, and a tasting note. If price in the form of rancio, dried fig and molasses, with Seppeltsfield 1987 Para Tawny cannot be confirmed, $NA (not available) will be printed. a citrusy edge providing life and freshness to the 95 (Barossa Valley); $70. Seppeltsfield’s Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. nearly endless finish. Imported by Old Bridge 1987 Para Tawny features ample rancio complex- TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS ity coupled with candied citrus notes. It’s amaz- Tastings are conducted individually or in a group setting and Cellars. Cellar Selection. —J.C. performed blind or in accordance with accepted industry ingly viscous, rich and mouthcoating, and seems practices. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When pos- sible, wines considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. R.L. Buller & Son NV Calliope Rare to linger forever on the palate. Only 25 cases Tokay (Rutherglen); $120/375 ml. imported. Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. ABOUT THE SCORES 95 Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular wine. Thick, dark brown and looking as much like Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompany- molasses as wine, Buller’s Calliope Rare Tokay ing tasting note to learn about a wine’s special characteristics. Yalumba NV Museum Reserve has a soy-like meatiness to it, a leathery note Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. 92 Antique Tawny 21 Years Old Superb 94–97: A great achievement. that adds complexity to its notes of treacle and Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. (South Australia); $50/375 ml. Comes rancio. Almost too sweet and syrupy, with an Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. across as slightly spirity on the nose, with a pro- Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; endless finish. Cellar Selection. —J.C. often good value. nounced nutty character that persists through- Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- out, but which is balanced by layers of dark critical circumstances. Chambers Rosewood Vineyards toffee, molasses and date-like fruit on the palate. 93 NV Grand Muscadelle (Ruther- Wines receiving a rating below 80 are not reviewed. This is rich and sweet, with great intensity on the SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS glen); $140/375 ml. Coffee-brown in color, finish. Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. Editors’ Choice wines are those that offer excellent qual- with a hint of golden-yellow at the rim, Chambers ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a wine at any price Grand Muscadelle features intense aromas of with unique qualities that merit special attention. Seppeltsfield NV Para Grand Cellar Selections are wines deemed highly collectible caramelized walnuts and a pronounced rancio and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cel- Tawny (Barossa Valley); $40. Nicely character, all tied together by molassesy sweet- 90 lar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection des- complex, with elements of rancio combining ignation does not mean that a wine must be stored to be ness. Viscous and wildly concentrated, it leaves a seamlessly with hints of hickory-smoked nuts, enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more lasting impression on glassware and palate alike. enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring honey and citrus. Shows a bit of warmth on the will be indicated. Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selec- lingering finish. Imported by Negociants USA, Best Buys are wines that offer a high level of quality in tion. —J.C. relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or for- Inc. —J.C. mulae for determining Best Buys, but they are generally priced at $15 or less. R.L. Buller & Son NV Premium Fine De Bortoli NV Old Boys Very Old SUBMITTING WINES FOR REVIEW 92 Tokay (Victoria); $15/375 ml. A bar- Fine Tawny (South Eastern Aus- Wines should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing 89 location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via gain among Down Under fortifieds, Buller’s Vic- tralia); $37. This is an average of 21 years old, winemag.com/contact. Inquiries should be addressed to torian blended Tokay features wonderfully making it the rough equivalent of a 20-year-old Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo at 914.345.8463 or email [email protected]. There is no charge for complex notes of tea, spice and citrus atop lush tawny Port, but in a softer, fruitier style. Brown submitting wines. We make every effort to taste all wines caramel-like sweetness. It’s silky and balanced, sugar and baking spices mark the nose, followed submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all wines submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the with a long, citrusy finish. Imported by Southern by flavors of fig, date, cinnamon and walnut. It’s magazine. All wines must be accompanied by a submission Starz, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. full bodied and richly concentrated, spicy and form, which may be downloaded from our Web site. warming on the finish. Imported by De Bortoli LABELS Campbells NV Tokay (Rutherglen); Labels are paid promotions. Wineries and winery Wines USA Inc. —J.C. representatives are given the opportunity to submit labels, 90 $19/375 ml. One of the most drinkable which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes Tokays is this entry-level offering from Camp- Dutschke NV Old Codger Fine Old and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or bells. It’s only light amber in color, suggesting its 89 Tawny (Australia); $18. Brick in email [email protected]. youth, while the fruit comes through as citrus and color, turning tawny at the rim, this plump blend Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at apricot laced with clove and caramel. It’s sweet of a half-dozen grape varieties displays ample buyingguide.winemag.com

WineMag.com | 1 3 BUYING I GUIDE complexity in its notes of caramelized nuts, dried drink. There’s some berry fruit remaining, but against savory notes of cedar and black olive. cherries and baking spices. It’s a pleasant post- also touches of honey, caramel and molasses. It’s Drink 2012–2018. Imported by Trinchero Family dinner drink, with just the right touch of tannins very supple and smooth in the mouth, yet fin- Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. remaining on the finish. Imported by Bluestone ishes on a slightly earthy or savory note, which Wine Solutions. —J.C. keeps it from being cloying. Imported by The Coriole 2007 Redstone Shiraz Australia-New Zealand Wine Connection. —J.C. 90 (McLaren Vale); $20. Full-bodied, soft Grant Burge NV 10 Year Old Oak and cuddly, this is a comfortingly familiar Shiraz— 89 Matured Port Wine (Barossa); $30. Seppeltsfield NV Cellar No. 7 easily accessible, filled with blackberry and plum Full and lush in the mouth, Grant Burge’s 10 87 Tawny (South Australia); $25. fruit and with just enough complexity to bring Year Old is incredibly easy to drink. The toffee Blended to an average of five years of age, this wine drinkers back for second and third sips. Hints of and dried fruit notes are lively and fresh, is a soft, easy-drinking Australian tawny, with subtle licorice, cinnamon and mocha linger on the velvety accented by a hint of peppery spice on the finish. nutty aromas and flavors of orange zest and finish. Drink now–2014. Imported by Robert A nice change up for those used to tawny Port. caramel. Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. Whale Selections Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C. R.L. Buller & Son NV Premium Fine Fetish 2008 The Watcher Shiraz R.L. Buller & Son NV Tawny (Victo- 85 Tawny (Victoria); $15. Although still a 90 (Barossa Valley); $22. A nicely bal- 89 ria); $14. This young tawny, actually respectable effort, this is a weak link in the Buller anced Barossa Shiraz, the 2008 The Watcher garnet in color, is warm and supple. And although arsenal of fortifieds, with a minty, slightly medici- avoids any sense of raisining or overripeness that this easygoing tawny lacks a bit of complexity, it nal edge to the modest berry fruit and dark, earthy may sometimes be found in wines from this vin- boasts ample, mouthfilling flavors of black cherry, undercurrents. Turns tart and crisp on the finish. tage. Plum and savory notes are complemented plum and chocolate. Imported by Southern Starz, Imported by Southern Starz, Inc. —J.C. by subtle oaking, and the overall impression is of Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. ripe, creamy-textured fruit balanced by crisp acids. Drink now–2018. Imported by American Yalumba NV Museum Reserve AUSTRALIA Wine Distributors. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 89 Antique Tawny (South Australia); $19/375 ml. A pale tawny in color, this com- TABLE WINES Gemtree 2008 Uncut Shiraz plex sweet wine features notes of honey, fig and (McLaren Vale); $20. Full-bodied citrus. It’s silky in texture, even if the alcohol does SHIRAZ 90 almost to the point of excess, this boldly flavored show through a bit on the finish. Imported by Shiraz features hints of tar and cola on the nose, Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. Barossa Jack 2008 Shiraz but more mainstream flavors of blackberries and (Barossa); $28. This wine hides its 91 vanilla on the palate. Savory, meaty nuances pro- D’Arenberg 2005 Vintage 14.9% alcohol well under layers of plush cassis and vide just enough complexity, folding in hints of Declared Port (McLaren Vale); $40. blueberry fruit. Cedar, vanilla and cinnamon add 88 maple syrup on the finish. Drink now–2014. For a vintage-style fortified, this wine’s color is to its complexity, enhanced by hints of cracked Imported by Guardian of the Grape Imports. appropriately intense and dark, but the tannins pepper and marinated beef. This is supple in Editors’ Choice. are somewhat tame. Hints of mint and chocolate texture and broad in the mouth without being —J.C. pop up, adding modest complexity, but the bold overly weighty. Drink now–2017. Imported by Penfolds 2007 Bin 28 Kalimna Shi- cassis and plum fruit is framed instead by its crisp Vintage Point. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. raz (South Australia); $26. acids, suggesting a rather early drinking window, 90 Filled perhaps 2013–2020 or so. Imported by Old Mount Langi Ghiran 2005 Billi Billi with layers of red and black berries and accented Bridge Cellars. —J.C. 91 Shiraz (Victoria); $15. This offering with hints of vanilla and chocolate, this creamy- from Mount Langi Ghiran displays trademark textured Shiraz shows some muscle as well, sug- De Bortoli NV 8 Year Old Tawny Syran notes of leather, roasted meat, cracked gesting that while it is approachable now, it will 88 (South Eastern Australia); $26. A pepper and violets, balanced by a foundation of age nicely over the next 10 years or so. Imported nicely balanced, easy-drinking tawny, with scents cherry fruit. It’s silky in texture and long on the by Foster’s Wine Estates Americas. Cellar Selec- of toffee, dried fruit and nuts, with flavors that finish, making it an excellent wine and a superb tion. —J.C. still retain a hint of cherries to go with the value. Drink it over the next 4–5 years. Imported caramel-like sweetness. This hides its alcohol by Rathbone Wine Group. Best Buy. —J.C. R Wines 2007 First Class Shiraz well, finishing with a sensation of fresh, lipsmack- 90 (McLaren Vale); $30. Amply endowed ing fruit. Imported by De Bortoli Wines USA Angove’s 2007 Vineyard Select at 15.5% abv, this is a full-bodied, rich and velvety Inc. —J.C. 90 Shiraz (McLaren Vale); $19. example of McLaren Vale Shiraz from wine- Angove’s deserves credit for its effort to step up maker Chris Ringland. The menthol, vanilla and Patritti NV Classic Tawny (South the quality of its wines in the Vineyard Select black cherry notes are straightforward but pure, 88 Australia); $15. A young (average age series. The 2007 Shiraz is a medium-bodied, rea- with nothing to distract from the bold fruit and 5 years) tawny sourced from the Riverlands, this sonably structured example of McLaren Vale tasty oak. Drink now–2015. Imported by The makes for a tasty and affordable after-dinner fruit, balancing bright raspberry and cherry fruit Grateful Palate. —J.C.

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 St. Hallett 2007 Blackwell Shiraz Penfolds 2007 Bin 128 Shiraz meat, black olive, cracked pepper and fine 90 (Barossa); $35. This is a full-bodied, 88 (Coonawarra); $26. From a cooler espresso. Finishes long, with velvety tannins. Best richly textured Barossa Shiraz that steers a tradi- region than its Bin 28 stablemate, Penfolds’ 2007 with herbed lamb, simply grilled or roasted. tional course. Bold blackberry fruit leads the way, Bin 128 is a medium-bodied Shiraz that features Drink now–2020. Imported by International framed by American oak notes of vanilla, coffee touches of peppery spice, raspberry-cherry fruit Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. and baking spices, even a hint of dill. The tannins and a darker edge of chocolate and coffee. The are plush, suggesting a drinking window between tannins are supple without being soft, giving this Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier now and 2015. Imported by Lion Nathan USA, a drinking window that should extend through 90 2008 Shiraz-Viognier (Victoria); Inc. —J.C. 2017 or so. Imported by Foster’s Wine Estates $18. This wine has been a perennial favorite, but Americas. —J.C. it does offer a very Rhône-inspired set of charac- Gemtree 2008 Tadpole Shiraz teristics, being meaty and somewhat feral in 89 (McLaren Vale); $14. The Tadpole Thorn Clarke 2008 Shotfire Shiraz aroma. There are green peppercorn scents as Shiraz is Gemtree’s entry-level offering, but it’s 88 (Barossa); $24. This medium- to full- well, and the flavors are intensely savory, spicy still a fine effort, with predominantly plummy fla- bodied Shiraz features a welcoming mix of and herbal, with a foundation of plum and black- vors, but enough of a savory edge to keep it from mulberries and vanilla, overtaken by cedary fla- berry fruit. Drink now–2016. Imported by Ter- being simply jammy. Tannins are creamy-soft, vors on the finish, where the fruit turns crisp. A lato Wines International. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. making for immediate accessibility. Drink now. slab of charred steak would match the woody Imported by Guardian of the Grape Imports. notes nicely. Drink now–2013. Imported by Gemtree 2008 Bloodstone Shiraz- Best Buy. —J.C. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. 90 Viognier (McLaren Vale); $17. Some Australian wineries are still “overdelivering,” Taltarni 2005 Shiraz (Pyrenees); D’Arenberg 2008 The Footbolt as they like to say, and this round of Gemtree 89 $22. Medium bodied and firmly struc- 87 Shiraz (McLaren Vale); $19. Full releases are a good example of that. The 2008 tured, this stands apart from many Australian Shi- bodied, lush and slightly liquorous in style, the Bloodstone features flagrant vanilla aromas, but raz for those characteristics. It also boasts scents 2008 Footbolt is also packed with peppery, balances those with cracked pepper and grilled of leather, cedar and vanilla on the nose, backed slightly herbal blackberry fruit. There’s also a hint meat notes, red berries and traces of coffee and by flavors of plum and black cherry. The leathery of menthol. Drink it over the next 12 months. olive. The tannins of this full-bodied red are notes re-emerge on the finish alongside mouth- Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. creamy soft, turning just slightly dusty on the watering fruit. Drink now–2020. Imported by finish. Drink now–2016. Imported by Guardian of Clos Du Val Wine/Goelet Wine Estates. —J.C. Gemtree 2007 White Lees Shiraz the Grape Imports. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 87 (McLaren Vale); $32. Named for the Earthworks 2008 Shiraz (Barossa practice of aging the Shiraz on Chardonnay lees, De Bortoli 2008 Estate Grown Shi- 88 Valley); $16. Creamy in texture and Gemtree’s 2007 White Lees features plenty of 89 raz-Viognier (Yarra Valley); $36. In deceptively easy to drink, this Barossa Shiraz fea- plummy fruit and vanilla oak, with enough savori- keeping with winemaker Steve Webber’s tures a veneer of baking spices and vanilla lay- ness to keep it in check. It’s a full-bodied effort moderate-alcohol, food-friendly style, this 2008 is ered over a fruity foundation of ripe blueberries. with soft tannins and a slightly warming finish. medium in weight, with a silky-textured finish. Drink it over the next several years. Imported by Drink now. Imported by Guardian of the Grape Although labeled as Shiraz-Viognier, the Viognier Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. Imports. —J.C. component isn’t really apparent in the wine, which features more classic Shiraz notes of tar, beef and Keith Tulloch 2004 Kester Shiraz Mount Langi Ghiran 2004 Cliff tapenade. Drink it over the next several years. 88 (Hunter Valley); $NA. This is a 87 Edge Shiraz (Victoria); $18. Starts Imported by De Bortoli Wines USA Inc. —J.C. mature example of Hunter Shiraz, showing the off rather Rhônish, with hints of white pepper leathery notes that made the region famous, com- and grilled meat, then offers tart cherry fruit on De Bortoli 2008 Gulf Station Shi- bined with hints of cinnamon, clove and dried the palate, accented by those same savory ele- 88 raz-Viognier (Yarra Valley); $20. cherries. It’s soft, velvety and ready to drink, ments. The tannins are modest but silky, and the This is a bit chunkier and less suave than De whereas the 2005 appears to have greater poten- acids turn up while the flavors thin out just a bit Bortoli’s more expensive estate bottled Shiraz- tial ahead of it. Imported by Wine Angel. —J.C. on the finish. Drink now–2014. Imported by Viognier, but it’s still a very nice wine. Peppery Rathbone Wine Group. —J.C. spice marks the nose, while the flavors feature a Marquee 2007 Signature Shiraz nice blend of plum with savory notes of coffee 88 (McLaren Vale); $20. Marked by and black olives. Drink now–2015. Imported by violet-like scents and touches of pepper-cured SHIRAZ-VIOGNIER De Bortoli Wines USA Inc. —J.C. meat, this is an intriguing Shiraz. It’s full bodied and creamy in texture, with flavors of blackberry Wirra Wirra 2007 Catapult Shiraz- Innocent Bystander 2008 Shiraz- liqueur and licorice. Its only failing is that it 91 Viognier (McLaren Vale); $20. Sur- 87 Viognier (Victoria); $20. A medium- seems to fade a bit quickly on the finish. Drink prisingly full bodied and rich for a wine at this bodied wine with gentle tannins, this is a savory this luscious Shiraz over the next year or two. price, the 2007 Catapult is at the same time offering, with notes of plum, meat, tapenade and Imported by Marquee Artisan Wines. —J.C. savory in style, with notes of dry cedar, roasted peppery spices accented by cedary oak, particularly

WineMag.com | 1 5 BUYING I GUIDE apparent on the mouth-watering finish. Drink Oxford Landing 2008 GSM climate Chard rocks with straightforward fruity now–2015. Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. 85 Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvèdre notes of pear, peach and pineapple. It’s medium (South Australia); $10. This blend of 45% in body, reined in by bright acids on the tart, cit- Yalumba 2008 Y Series Shiraz- Grenache, 28% Shiraz and 27% Mourvèdre does rusy finish. Imported by Hathaway Trading 84 Viognier (South Australia); $10. show a trace of heat in its finish, but is otherwise Company. —J.C. Yalumba’s 2008 Y Series Shiraz-Viognier is a very a pleasant, medium-bodied sipper at a realistic quaffable, light- to medium-bodied effort, with price. Tart, slightly minty cherries feature under- De Bortoli 2008 Reserve Release only a faint dusting of silky tannins. Flavors of currents of chocolate and coffee, turning crisp 88 Chardonnay (Yarra Valley); $45. cherry, mint and a hint of cracked pepper finish and lemony on the finish. Drink now. Imported De Bortoli continues to turn out highly restrained clean and fresh. Drink now. Imported by Nego- by Negociants USA, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. Chardonnays from its own Yarra Valley vineyards. ciants USA, Inc. —J.C. This is lean and crisp, with smoke accenting pear and pineapple fruit. Pretty unique among Aus- CHARDONNAY tralian examples, but exemplifying winemaker OTHER RED WINES Steve Webber’s approach. Imported by De Leeuwin Estate 2007 Art Series Bortoli Wines USA Inc. —J.C. Deen De Bortoli 2008 Vat 4 Petit 93 Chardonnay (Margaret River); $89. 88 Verdot (South Eastern Australia); One of Australia’s benchmark Chardonnays con- Marquee 2008 Signature $13. A bit austere, with an astringent edge, this tinues its roll, offering up opulent scents of vanilla, 88 Chardonnay (Yarra Valley); $15. A requires pairing with rare beef or lamb to show peach and mango. Tropical fruit and toasty oak fla- lively, balanced wine at an accessible price point, its best. There’s a lifted, slightly floral aspect to vors are easily carried by a lush, full-bodied deliv- Marquee’s 2008 Signature Chard boasts aromas the aromas, followed by crisp cherry fruit and a ery system that seems to unfold kaleidoscopically of smoke, vanilla and stone fruit and flavors that dusting of firm tannins. Drink now, but this also on the palate, finishing long and multilayered. On follow along similar lines, with white peach and could be a wine that makes for a pleasant sur- the conservative side, drink now–2015. Imported pineapple coming to the fore. Drink now–2012. prise in 4–5 years. Imported by De Bortoli Wines by Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. Imported by Marquee Artisan Wines. —J.C. USA Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. Leeuwin Estate 2008 Prelude Wakefield Estate 2008 Chardon- Gemtree 2008 The Phantom Petit 90 Vineyards Chardonnay (Margaret 88 nay (South Australia); $17. Wake- 88 Verdot (McLaren Vale); $20. Petit River); $36. The Art Series’s little sibling is this field is a reliable producer of Clare Valley wines, Verdot is a character actor who’s never really lush, full-bodied Chardonnay that packs in a lot and the Chard is no exception. Toasted nuts min- grabbed the spotlight for itself, but makes an of flavor. Hints of buttered toast, nuts, vanilla and gle easily alongside grilled pineapple and peach interesting appearance now and again. This tropical fruit (guava?) all gently caress the palate, notes, and the almost plush texture of this wine McLaren Vale example is oaky but backed by framed by just enough focus to hold it all gives it another dimension. Contains 4% Viognier. ample plum and cassis fruit and framed by tannins together. Drink now. Imported by Old Bridge Drink now. Imported by Taylors Wines. —J.C. that seem soft for the variety. Cedar and spice Cellars. —J.C. come through on the finish. Drink now. Imported De Bortoli 2008 Estate Grown by Guardian of the Grape Imports. —J.C. Philip Shaw 2007 No. 11 Chardon- 87 Chardonnay (Yarra Valley); $30. 90 nay (Orange); $30. This softly struc- Searching for New World Chardonnay that’s Rocland Estate 2007 Ass Kisser tured, user-friendly Chard boasts prototypical restrained, crisp and only 12% abv? Steve 87 Fine Red Wine (South Australia); barrel-fermented notes of cashews, buttered toast Webber at De Bortoli is your man. This medium- $10. This blend of Petit Verdot (40%), Grenache and grilled peaches, carried along by a full-bodied, bodied Chardonnay displays a hint of custard to (29%), Shiraz (29%) and Mataro (2%) ends up lush mouthfeel. Finishes long, with well integrated its texture, while the flavors are citrus driven and being a pleasing recipe at an even more pleasing oak. Drink now. Imported by Lion Nathan USA, refreshing. Imported by De Bortoli Wines USA price. Mulberry, plum and vanilla flavors emerge Inc. —J.C. Inc. —J.C. from the glass, while the mouthfeel is full and lush. Probably best over the next year or so. Imported Giant Steps 2008 Sexton Vineyard McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate by Rocland Wine Imports. Best Buy. —J.C. 89 Chardonnay (Yarra Valley); $35. 87 2008 Chardonnay (South Eastern Starts off with scents of smoke and yellow plums, Australia); $11. Crisper and tighter than most Peter Lehmann 2008 Clancy’s then folds in flavors of toasted marshmallow and other Australian Chards in this bracket, this 86 Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon-Mer- peach on the palate. This is a medium- to full- value-priced offering from McWilliams features lot (Barossa); $17. Clancy’s is a reliable bodied Chardonnay that manages to be ripe yet ample flavors of pear, citrus and toasty hints of Barossa blend that in 2008 is 50% Shiraz, 34% cool and reasonably structured at the same time. wood. Drink now. Imported by McWilliam’s Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Merlot. It’s a sup- It should drink well for the next few years. Hanwood Estate. Best Buy. —J.C. ple wine, the bright cherry fruit framed by tart Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. acids rather than firm tannins. Drink it over the Yering Station 2008 Little Yering next couple of years. Imported by Hess Collec- 42°S 2008 Chardonnay (Tasma- 87 Chardonnay (Yarra Valley); $13. tion. —J.C. 88 nia); $NA. Bold and flavorful, this cool- Yering Station makes a regular Chardonnay and a

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 Reserve Chardonnay as well; this is its entry-level lemony finish. Drink now. Imported by The and a tinge of petrol. The perfume persists on Chard, and quite a good one. Bright pineapple Country Vintner. Best Buy. —J.C. the palate as well, combining with fresh lime notes and a hint of grilled fruit are clean and juice and notes of slate and wet stone. Imported fresh if somewhat straightforward in this Wolf Blass 2009 Yellow Label by Southern Wine and Spirits. —A.I. medium-bodied wine. Drink now. Imported by 85 Chardonnay (South Australia); Rathbone Wine Group. —J.C. $12. Known more for its red wines, Wolf Blass Château des Charmes 2008 Ries- nevertheless makes a creditable Chardonnay for 87 ling (Niagara-On-The-Lake); $13. Gemtree 2008 Citrine Chardonnay $12. hints of vanilla and toasted almond mark the This elegant Riesling smells beautifully of honey, 86 (McLaren Vale); $17. On the lean, nose, while the fruit flavors veer toward citrus and fresh apples and petrol. Dry and austere, but not citrusy side, but the flavors of pineapple and stay there, turning lemony on the finish. Imported the least bit bony in style, its refreshing lime juice lemon are married to hints of vanilla and smoke by Foster’s Wine Estates Americas. —J.C. palate and saline finish would pair wonderfully for added complexity. Could use a touch more with sashimi or raw oysters. Imported by Spe- flesh, but some will enjoy the crispness. Imported Yellow Tail 2008 Reserve Chardon- cialty Cellars. —A.I. by Guardian of the Grape Imports. —J.C. 85 nay (South Eastern Australia); $12. Pineapples, pears and citrus fruits fall over Jacob’s Creek 2009 Chardonnay each other in this soft, fruit-driven Chardonnay. CHILE 86 (South Eastern Australia); $8. Full- It’s medium in body, with just enough citrus on ish and broad in the mouth without going over- the finish to keep it together. A solid effort, espe- RED WINES board, this is textbook Chardonnay with mass cially for the price. Imported by W.J. Deutsch & appeal. Peach and vanilla flavors persist nicely on Sons. —J.C. CABERNET SAUVIGNON the finish, pointed up with finely judged acids. Drink now. Imported by Pernod Ricard. Best Concha y Toro 2007 Terrunyo Buy. —J.C. CANADA 91 Vineyard Selection Block: Las Ter- razas Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Val- Ozwell Vintners 2008 Flying Piano RIESLING ley); $38. Smoky and smooth up front, with Hand Select Chardonnay (South bacon, rubber and pure black-fruit aromas. The 86 Cave Spring 2008 CSV Riesling Eastern Australia); $11. Bursting with bold, palate is equally pure and deep, with lush black- (Beamsville Bench); $25. Released fully ripe fruit notes of pear and peach, followed 89 berry, cassis, tannins and proper balance. Spicy only in exceptional vintages, Cave Spring’s up with tropical notes, this is a lush fruit bomb of and tasting of licorice on the finish, with an over- Beamsville CSV is a model expression of a Chardonnay to drink over the near term (3–4 all appeal that justifies its price. Excellent Canadian Riesling. Perfumed, but not at all cloy- months). Imported by Chatham Imports. Best Chilean Cabernet that can compete with Napa ing, the scent of white, waxy florals and fresh Buy. —J.C. and elsewhere. Drink now through 2015. lavender combine effortlessly with notes of honey Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.S. and petrol on the nose. Florals and petrol persist Peter Lehmann 2009 Chardonnay on the palate as well, melting into sweet white (Barossa); $11. Concha y Toro 2008 Marques de 85 Lean and crisp in style, grapefruit juice and a slightly saline, lime pith Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon this is citrusy through and through. Although a finish that proves exceptionally refreshing. 90 (Puente Alto); $22. bit one-dimensional, it’s clean and refreshing, Imported by Southern Wine and Spirits. —A.I. Stands out for its fruit with a pleasantly affordable price tag. Imported quality, balance and structure. The nose is strong by Hess Collection. —J.C. Cave Spring 2008 Riesling (Nia- and piercing, with charred notes, black-fruit 88 gara Peninsula); $12. Bright orange aromas and depth. Ripe and clean in the mouth, Queensgate 2009 Chardonnay and pretty white floral aromas meld luxuriously with elevated blackberry flavors and a chewy, 85 (South Eastern Australia); $8. A with a sultry petrol undertone on this Niagara meaty mouthfeel. Toasty and tasting of black boldy flavored, tropical-fruit-laden wine that Peninsula Riesling. The off-dry palate offers a licorice on the finish. A serious, well-made Chilean brings back memories of the late '80s Chards that refreshing shower of lime and sour tangerine Cab to drink now through 2012. Imported by helped put Australia on America’s wine map, for flavors accented by earthy heather and slate Banfi Vintners. —M.S. style and price. Amply textured, with mouthwa- notes. For such a bargain price, it’s hard to beat tering peach and mango notes. Drink now. this beauty. Imported by Southern Wine and Cono Sur 2007 20 Barrels Caber- Imported by Winery Exchange. Best Buy. —J.C. Spirits. Best Buy. —A.I. 90 net Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $24. A nice, powerful Cab with mocha, truffle, St. Kilda 2009 Chardonnay (South Cave Spring 2008 Beamsville forest floor, cassis and vanilla aromas preceding a 85 Eastern Australia); $9. Citrus and 87 Bench Riesling (Niagara Penin- pretty palate of cassis, coffee and toast. The pear notes lead the way in this bargain-priced sula); $15. Hitting the tongue with a slight texture is just right and the finish is long and easy, Chardonnay from Down Under. It’s reasonably spritz, this is another elegant, beautifully per- with furry tannins that don’t bite. A supple wine tight and crisp for a wine in this bracket, carrying fumed Riesling. On the nose, it’s billowing with that shows the best side of Maipo Cabernet. hints of well integrated vanilla through the white, waxy floral perfume, honey, fresh apples Drink now–2013. Imported by Vineyard Brands.

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Echeverria 2007 Limited Edition ley); $20. A bit hot and crusty on the nose, with reasonably good depth and saturation, with 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Val- black fruit and herbal notes of olive and bramble. flavors of roasted berry, stewed fruits, tobacco ley); $20. A serious Cab with red-fruit disposi- The palate is full but hard as nails, with a tannic and green veggies. Good but challenged. tion, spice notes and earthy, smoky, mossy bite that is wicked like a shark. Flavors are full Imported by Admiral Imports. —M.S. aromas. The palate is good and aggressive, with and drying due to the tannins, with herbal cassis, snappy acids, softening butter notes and accents. Finishing flavors of coffee and spice Viña Tarapacá 2008 Gran Reserva vanilla. Lighter on the finish, with no excess cement its dark, muscular status. Imported by 84 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Val- weight or fat; more driving and jousting rather Total Beverage Solution. —M.S. ley); $19. Fairly candied and sweet at first, with than lush, heavy or lumpy. Imported by Ararat marshmallow and vanilla extract as the lead aro- Import/Export Co. LLC. —M.S. San Pedro 2008 1865 Single Vine- mas. The palate is very tannic, with excess weight 86 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo and chunkiness but only basic flavors of generic Domaines Barons de Rothschild Valley); $19. A quick first nosing suggests a black fruits, herbs and olive. Tannic as nails on 89 (Lafite) 2008 Los Vascos Reserve vegetal quality, and yes, the wine does have a the finish. Imported by MHW, Ltd. —M.S. Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley); green streak to it. But overall it rounds out and $20. The bouquet of cassis, blackberry and opens to show herbal black-fruit flavors, tobacco, TerraNoble 2008 Reserva Caber- controlled oak is welcoming, while the palate coffee and earth notes. It’s tannic and clacky, 83 net Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley); shows a spot of piercing acidity along with snappy maybe a touch aggressive, but it does improve $18. For Chilean Cab, this is forced and rocky. black cherry, cassis and light olive flavors. This is with airing. Good Chilean Cab with typical The nose is mulchy and sour, with coffee grinds, a quintessential Chilean Cab with a hint of herbal Maipo herbal notes. Imported by Shaw-Ross herbal notes and heavy turned earth. The palate is character but also bold color, power and very International Importers. —M.S. tannic and biting, with herbal berry flavors and a good fruit quality. Imported by Pasternak Wine woody cover. Meaty on the finish but hard in Imports. —M.S. Santa Helena 2008 Vernus Caber- texture. This is not a friendly wine. Imported by 86 net Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley); Winebow. —M.S. Cono Sur 2008 Visión Block: El $17. A bit soupy to begin with; the nose is herbal 88 Recurso Cabernet Sauvignon and a touch brambly, with a certain grittiness. In (Maipo Valley); $15. A firm and lively Cab the mouth, it’s grabby and tannic, with full black CARMENÈRE with aromas of tobacco, cassis, spice cake and cherry and blackberry flavors. Dark, toasty and chocolate. It’s ripe and forward on the palate, charred as well, with more size than elegance. A Concha y Toro 2007 Terrunyo where the bouquet is reflected via flavors of cas- good wine but nothing out of the ordinary. 92 Vineyard Selection Block 27 Car- sis, vanilla, coffee and tobacco. Fresh on the fin- Imported by Misa Imports. —M.S. menère (Peumo); $38. Big, stout and solid, ish and never herbal despite the 15% Carmenère with a smoky, pure-fruit nose that’s very attrac- in the blend. Imported by Vineyard Brands. Ventisquero 2009 Reserva Caber- tive. Lush and full in the mouth, with pure, deep, 86 net Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley); intoxicating flavors of blackberrry, black currant Miguel Torres 2007 Manso de $10. Sweet on the nose, with a lot of mocha, and Mediterranean black olive. Solid throughout 88 Velasco Viejas Viñas Old Vines vanilla and candied fruit. The palate is tannic and and holds its form across the finish. Ripe, smooth Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Valley); very oaky for a wine of this level. Flavors of toffee, and delicious. Drink now thru 2012. Imported by $42. A bit mulchy and swampy for Manso, with cocoa, mocha and generic berry fruit show more Banfi Vintners. —M.S. earthy tobacco and generic berry fruit aromas. The oak than purity. A good wine but heavy handed palate is flush and a little heavy, with creamy fla- with the oak. Contains 15% Syrah. Imported by Odfjell 2006 Orzada Carmenère vors of vanilla, dill weed and cassis. Soft and sweet Austral Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. 91 (Maule Valley); $20. This wine has a late, with chunkiness and a medium to basic struc- great track record and the 2006 is staunch and ture. A very good wine but not great as in past Viña La Rosa 2008 La Palma ready to go, with shoe polish, licorice nib, sandal- years. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. 85 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cachapoal wood and spice aromas to go with big black-fruit Valley); $8. Slightly mulchy at first, with coffee scents. The palate is smooth and easy, with black- Root:1 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon grinds, leafy notes and mildly soupy red-fruit berry, fig, tobacco and herbal flavors. Cedary and 88 (Colchagua Valley); $12. A very good aromas. Airing helps it out, and it evolves into a woody late, with some mocha. Still flush and value-priced Cab with fresh tomato, herb, black sweet, herbal wine with baked berry fruit flavors healthy more than four years removed from har- cherry, blackberry and earthy aromas. The palate and olive accents. Standard Chilean Cabernet vest; drink now through 2012. Imported by Select is healthy and stands up to scrutiny, while the fla- that’s a touch syrupy and herbal. Imported by Fine Wine. —M.S. vors of cassis, berry, chocolate and pepper are MJM Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. correct and more than pleasant. Long and lasting Santa Carolina 2007 Herencia on the finish. The best Root: 1 Cab to date. Luis Felipe Edwards 2009 Reserva 91 Carmenère (Peumo); $90. Dark as Imported by Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. 84 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua night, with mildly leafy, herbal, varietally appro- Valley); $9. Like most bargain Chilean Cabs, priate aromas of olive, earth, tea and black fruits. Misiones de Rengo 2008 Cuvée the wine is a bit green and herbal, with scratchy The palate is big but nicely chiseled, with good 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rapel Val- red-fruit aromas helping it along. The palate has acidity and tannic support for roasted berry,

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 plum, fig and peppery flavors. A smooth, correct Casa Silva 2005 Microterroir de followed by a juicy, almost edgy palate that high-end Carmenère. Drink now through 2013. 88 los Lingues Carmenère (Colch- houses herbal berry and toast flavors. Mildly Imported by Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. agua Valley); $49. A lot of olive and herbs creamy tasting on the finish, with herbs and red- upfront, with cumin and other exotic, arguably fruit zest and acidity. Regular and herbal, but Casa Lapostolle 2008 Cuvée unusual aromas. The palate is soft and a little low entirely drinkable. Imported by Shaw-Ross Inter- 89 Alexandre Apalta Vineyard on structure, but the flavors are big and sweet, national Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. Carmenère (Colchagua Valley); $24. Opens almost overripe and syrupy. There’s cola, black- sweet and borderline syrupy, but also dark, earthy berry, coffee and mulchy herbal flavors from start Santa Ema 2008 Reseve Barrel and candied, with nothing offensive or too herbal. to finish. A big wine that needs to be drunk now; 86 Select Carmenère (Cachapoal The palate is jammy and rich, with soft tannins, it’s not going to get better. Imported by Vin Valley); $12. Aromas of crusty blackberry are saturation, black-fruit flavors, chocolate and Divino. —M.S. dark and herbal, while the palate is zesty and herbal flavors. Finishes sweet and sticky, with fresh, with tight acidity supporting flavors of cas- coffee and some mint. Very nice wine but also so TerraNoble 2008 Gran Reserva sis, black cherry, cola nut and pepper. Toasty, ripe that the varietal character is vague. Imported 88 Carmenère (Maule Valley); $18. herbal and licorice-like on the finish. A good yet by Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S. Dark and charred like so many of TerraNoble’s common wine. Imported by T.G.I.C. Importers. red wines. There’s lemon peel, black coffee, black —M.S. Cono Sur 2008 Visión Carmenère fruit and herbs on the nose, while the palate 89 (Cachapoal Valley); $14. An impres- shows tomato, herbs, smoked meat, basic black TerraNoble 2008 Reserva sive Carmenère for the price. The nose is true to fruit and a snappy texture. A little more racy than 86 Carmenère (Maule Valley); $13. the variety, with tobacco, olive, carob and herbal most, but heavily oaked and blackened. Imported Heavily charred, with aromas of black coffee, aromas mixing with ripe berry aromas. It’s jammy by Winebow. —M.S. earth, leather and dark-berry fruit. The palate has as well as juicy, and the flavors of black cherry, a starchy, firm feel and flavors of wild berry, plum and mocha are healthy and bright. Clean Ventisquero 2008 Queulat Gran toasted barrel, cola and herbs. Stays toasty through and long on the finish. Imported by Vineyard Reserva Carmenère (Maipo 87 the finish, with minty, almost green/herbal notes Brands. Best Buy. Valley); $15. Opens with common Carmenère closing things out. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. aromas such as herbal red fruits, olive paste, bal- Errazuriz 2007 Kai Carmenère samic vinegar and berry jam. The palate is fairly 89 (Aconcagua Valley); $120. A mas- lush and full, with sweet, spicy, herbal flavors MERLOT sive, sweet and hugely ripe style of Carmenère along with dark berry and bramble. Sweet, toasty, that leans toward fat and raisiny, even buttery. herbal and licorice-laden on the finish. Imported Calcu 2008 Merlot (Colchagua Val- Interestingly, the palate shows a streak of sharp by Austral Wines. —M.S. ley); $12. Standard berry and cherry acidity along with highly concentrated flavors of 86 aromas are clean and round, while the palate is black olive, prune, raisin and fig. Big and empha- Emiliana 2008 Eco Balance full and honest, with medium tannins and con- sizing size and heft more than total harmony. Carmenère (Colchagua Valley); 86 trolled acidity. For basic Merlot it’s nice because Drink now through 2012. Imported by Vintus $9. Earthy and mossy smelling, which is true to there’s sweetness, ripe fruit flavors, cola and juicy LLC. —M.S. the variety. In addition, there’s mild balsamic and dark-berry aromas. The palate is full and easy, snap to the finish. Imported by Global Vineyard Misiones de Rengo 2008 Cuvée with black-fruit flavors that carry herb and pep- Importers. —M.S. Carmenère (Rapel Valley); $20. pery qualities. Sweet and sizable for a $9 wine, 89 Echeverria 2008 Reserva Merlot Toasty, floral, big and full, with dark-cherry aro- with toast, coffee and controlled bitterness on mas, herbal notes and a touch of astingency. The the finish. Imported by Banfi Vintners. Best 85 (Curicó Valley); $11. Dusty cherry palate is bold and firm, while the flavors of black Buy. —M.S. aromas are slightly spiky and feature some tomato, cherry, black currant, cocoa and tea are likable while the palate is solid, a touch sharp and prickly, and bring only a moderate amount of herbal Morandé 2008 Edición Limitada but good overall. Snappy raspberry is the one and character. Finishes smooth, rich and chocolaty. 86 Carmenère (Maipo Valley); $22. only flavor, while the finish offers heat and some Imported by Total Beverage Solution. —M.S. Rubber and prune are the lead aromas, and over- mild oak. Average to good, and fully drinkable. all the nose is big but flat. Conversely, the palate Imported by Ararat Import/Export Co. LLC. Caliterra 2008 Tributo Single Vine- is clacky and tough on the surface, with herbal, —M.S. 88 yard Carmenère (Colchagua roasted-berry flavors. Dark and herbal on the Valley); $20. Dense, sweet and burly, with finish as well, with a clunky, somewhat awkward Ventisquero 2008 Queulat Gran prune, coconut and blackberry on the nose. The fade. Not as clean and pure as the 2007 version. 84 Reserva Merlot (Maipo Valley); palate is lush, chewy and not at all hard, while Imported by Morande USA. —M.S. $15. Brambly red-fruit aromas of currants and the flavors of berry, prune and tea are slightly pie cherry are on the sharp side, while the palate herbal. Full on the finish, with just enough acidity San Pedro 2008 Castillo de Molina is clacky and tannic, with crisp red-plum, herb and freshness to keep it moving in the right direc- 86 Carmenère (Maule Valley); $11. and wayward oak flavors. Finishes full and tion. Imported by Buena Cepa Wines. —M.S. Mossy aromas of prune and earth lead the way, rugged, with toasty heat and an herbal aftertaste.

WineMag.com | 1 9 BUYING I GUIDE

Not a bad wine but it’s fairly typical for Chilean With honest PN aromas of cherry, rhubarb, cur- lushness. Turns more oaky on the finish, with Merlot. Imported by Austral Wines. —M.S. rant and spice, this registers as something Pinot coconut and mocha. Impressive for New World drinkers can relate to. There’s modest weight and Syrah. Drink now through 2013. Imported by Catrala 2008 Grand Reserve Mer- good acidity, with spicy, tea-influenced flavors of Banfi Vintners. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. 83 lot (Casablanca Valley); $17. Bram- plum and raspberry. Dry with some cocoa on the bly with a mild vineagary sourness to the nose. The finish. Surprisingly nice for a $9 Chilean Pinot. Matetic 2008 EQ Syrah (San Anto- palate is tart, crisp and scratchy, with sweet-and- Imported by Admiral Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. 92 nio); $43. Evidence is showing that sour flavors of plum, herbs and even grass. Fin- Matetic is rising to the top of Chile’s Syrah moun- ishes green and challenged. Kind of weak for $17. Cono Sur 2009 Visión Block: 68 tain. This is a floral, heady, deep wine with bold Imported by Menrom Trading USA, LLC. —M.S. 85 Old Vine Single Vineyard Pinot black fruit aromas. Boldness is key throughout, Noir (Colchagua Valley); $15. A rooty style and the palate delivers pure wild berry, black- Santa Ema 2008 Reserve Merlot of warm-climate Pinot with sarsparilla, tomato berry and cassis flavors. Smooth yet powerful; a 82 (Maipo Valley); $14. A creamy, faux- leaf, beet and black cherry on what is a hot, voluminous wine with class and character. Drink smelling-and-tasting wine with loads of bogus oak slightly fiery nose. The palate is juicy, with cola, now through 2014. Imported by Quintessential character and limited stuffing or quality backing sweet cherry, herb and stemmy flavors, while the Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. it up. Smells like a berry marshmallow or county finish is snappy, with an aftertaste of caramel and fair cotton candy, yet the palate is hollow and berry liqueur. From vines planted in 1968. Cono Sur 2008 20 Barrels Syrah sour. A masked wine that’s trying to be tricky and Imported by Vineyard Brands. 91 (Limarí Valley); $24. This new wine isn’t. Imported by T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. from the Limarí Valley is a head-turner. The color Morandé 2009 Reserva Pinot Noir is black but it’s not overweight or overdone. The 85 (Casablanca Valley); $11. Dusty and nose has mild animal and leather notes along with PINOT NOIR dry on the nose, with raspberry and peppery savory blackberry, and the palate is full of boysen- spice notes that are true to the variety. Relatively berry, dark plum, licorice, pepper, chocolate and Cono Sur 2008 Ocio Pinot Noir solid in the mouth, with peppy red fruit flavors, espresso. Long and lingering, with thick legs. 89 (Casablanca Valley); $55. A potent tea and a tartness suggesting citrus or apple skins. Drink now through 2011. Imported by Vineyard powder keg of a PN with floral aromas, black Snappy juice that makes the grade. Imported by Brands. Editors’ Choice. cherry and toasty oak. The palate is textured but Morande USA. —M.S. angular, with black cherry flavors, toast and acidic La Playa 2007 Axel Syrah (Colch- tang. Seems like it plays one note for a bit too Indomita 2009 Selected Varietal 90 agua Valley); $20. A big and meaty long to be considered excellent, but it’s showing 83 Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley); Syrah that separates itself from the competition fine vibrancy and potential. Imported by Vine- $12. Vegetal on first blush, with aromas of green via inviting aromas of blackberry and lemon peel. yard Brands. bean and asparagus. The green character It’s even better in the mouth, where dark, smoky, becomes less obvious with time, but there’s still a generous black-fruit flavors rule. Finishes classy, Cono Sur 2008 20 Barrels Pinot bell pepper element to the palate, which offers with coffee, chocolate and fig notes. Robust and 88 Noir (Casablanca Valley); $24. Bold mildly stewy flavors. Finishes bland, and as a rewarding Syrah from Chile. Imported by Caber- and spicy, with a lot of cinnamon, licorice and whole it’s not exactly cutting the mustard. net Corporation. —M.S. toasty aromas. Quite intense in the mouth, where Imported by David Milligan Selections. —M.S. black cherry, toast and vanilla flavors lead the Matetic 2008 Corralillo Syrah (San charge. The finish is tangy and long, with coffee Pepperwood Grove 2009 Pinot 90 Antonio); $28. Purple in color, with and citrus accents coming along late in the game. 82 Noir (Central Valley); $7. Pepper- big, grapy aromas that fold in meatiness, warmth Made from whole berries fermented in open-top wood’s first foray into Chilean Pinot Noir leaves and power. The palate is a jammy blast of con- vats. Imported by Vineyard Brands. a bit to be desired, even at $7. The nose is centrated black fruit, herbs and lighter citrus mulchy and candied, while the palate is clumsy, along the edges. Lush on the back side, and prob- Kingston Family 2009 Tobiano with candied berry, cocoa powder, vanilla and ably more bold and forceful as opposed to refined 88 Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley); other sweet flavors. Imported by Don Sebastiani or elegant. Drink now through 2012. Imported $20. Dark, muscular and very oaky, especially & Sons. —M.S. by Quintessential Wines. —M.S. early on where it smells charred and bacony, with black fruit in the background. Airing unleashes Koyle 2008 Reserva Syrah (Colch- chewy, roasted berry, plum, carob and herbal SYRAH 88 agua Valley); $17. Muscular and flavors, and throughout there is a strong oak ele- fruity on the nose, with coffee, mocha and smoky ment. Finishes big and thick, with toast and leafy, Concha y Toro 2007 Terrunyo accents. The palate is concentrated and deep, herbal Pinot Noir nuances. Imported by Kingston 92 Vineyard Selection Block 34 Syrah with a jammy mouthfeel and flavors of black Family Vineyards. —M.S. (Peumo); $38. Muscled up and dark, with fruits, olive, exotic spices and sweetness. Not robust blackberry, tar, spice and mocha aromas. overly complex but nice in a bullish, black-fruit Luis Felipe Edwards 2009 Reserva The palate is big and dense but raring to run, way. With 13% Carmenère. Imported by Quin- 87 Pinot Noir (Central Valley); $9. with smashing black cherry, berry and black plum tessential Wines. —M.S.

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 Crucero 2007 Reserva Syrah Santa Ema 2007 Catalina (Peumo); smooth palate and flavors of sweet pear, baked 87 (Colchagua Valley); $13. A bit 88 $40. Smoky, rubbery and sweet on the apple and roasted corn. Honey and orange notes lemony and tight to start with; aromas of roasted nose, with mocha and caramel shadings. The make cameo appearances. Good for the price. berry, coffee, shoe polish and tar are hard and palate, however, is more tight and narrow; the feel Imported by Sovereign Wine Imports. Best Buy. dark. In the mouth, it’s fresh and tannic, with is fresh and blazing, while the flavors are piercing —M.S. forward flavors of black fruit, herbs, dark choco- and suggest red fruits like cranberry and cherry. late and toast. Shows some heat and burn on the Citric but with just enough weight to register as Leyda 2009 Classic Chardonnay finish, but it’s a concentrated, full-force wine. true Cabernet (with 18% Carmenère and 7% Cab 87 (Leyda Valley); $12. Wet, salinic, Imported by Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. Franc). Imported by T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. oceanic and appley on the nose, with snappy, crisp, almost tart flavors of apple and citrus. A Santa Ema 2008 Reserve Barrel Fernando Torres Torrent 2004 pure wine with juicy acids and a monotone finish 86 Select Syrah (Cachapoal Valley); 84 Opera Prima Cabernet Sauvignon- that sports lemon and green apple. Powerful, $12. Saturated purple in color and grapy on the Syrah (Lontué Valley); $32. Green smelling, pure, acidic and zesty for Chilean Chardonnay. nose. The palate is mouthfilling but carries semi- with lettuce, oregano and other herbal aromas. Imported by Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. sharp acidity, and the flavors run in the direction The palate is also green and starchy, while the of standard black fruit. Notes of mocha and structure screams hard, big tannins and fierce Caliterra 2009 Reserva Chardon- nay (Casablanca Valley); $NA. coconut soften the finish, and overall this is a acidity. Does not mesh that well; too much green 86 Mild good but rather generic wine. Imported by character and hardness to rate better. A blend of apple and pear aromas are the starting point. The T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Syrah. palate is lively and high in acidity, with citrus, Imported by Bertin Henri Selections. —M.S. lemon, orange and pithy flavors. Citric fruit is the Korta 2007 Barrel Selection point of reference, while pith and related bitter- Reserve Syrah (Lontué Valley); ness work the edges. Zesty but modest in terms 85 of varietal Chardonnay flavor and weight. $13. Opens with aromas of burnt leaves and CHILE Imported by Buena Cepa Wines. —M.S. gritty berry fruit. The palate is fleshy and simple, with herbal roasted-berry flavors. Finishes with WHITE WINES Concha y Toro 2009 Xplorador more herbal flavor and a lightly scratchy feel. CHARDONNAY Chardonnay (Central Valley); $8. Good enough for the money, but a little short in 85 Quiet on the bouquet except for a dusting of oak ripeness, character and structure. Imported by Cono Sur 2008 20 Barrels and banana. The palate is heavy and wide, if a bit MJM Imports. —M.S. 90 Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley); flabby, and the flavors of melon and mango run $NA. Toasty as they come, with all the French sweet, much like fruit punch. Soft and sweet on OTHER RED WINES oak a wine can take and still smell good. There’s the finish as well, and overall it’s good but also vanilla, melon and baked apple aromas in generic. Not many Chards in the price range will front of a zesty, clean palate that’s packed with fare better. Imported by Banfi Vintners. Best Miguel Torres 2004 Conde de salty, ocean-influenced apple, pineapple and cit- Buy. —M.S. Superunda (Curicó Valley); $54. 89 rus flavors. Crisp as a lime on the finish, and Opens oakier than the younger '05, with coffee, that’s because it did not go through malolactic Errazuriz 2009 Estate Chardonnay toffee and mocha aromas along with touches of fermentation. Drink now. Imported by Vineyard 84 (Casablanca Valley); $12. Smells olive and green tobacco. The wine has a full, Brands. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. clipped, tough and oily, with a hardness to the robust, tannic feel and deep, sweet berry and cas- bouquet. The palate is fleshy and wet, with rea- sis flavors. Huge, saturated and rocky due to the Errazuriz 2009 Wild Ferment sonably fresh melon and papaya flavors. Finishes tannins, but really good. Cabernet Sauvignon, 88 Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley); pithy and slightly bitter, and overall it’s barely a Carmenère, Monastrell and Tempranillo is the $21. The bouquet blends tropical aromas with good wine on its best day. Imported by Vintus mix. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. popcorn, and the palate is toasty as well, but not LLC. —M.S. cloying or thick. Flavors of green banana, orange, Miguel Torres 2005 Conde de melon and pineapple are spicy and zesty, and Cousiño-Macul 2009 Chardonnay 88 Superunda (Central Valley); $54. there’s pineapple and woodspice to the finish. A 83 (Maipo Valley); $11. Apple is about Opens with mild green, minty aromas that sug- natural-yeast Chard with balance and zest to go the only aroma you’ll find, and after that things gest tobacco, Middle Eastern spice and basic along with tropical sweetness. Imported by run flat, honeyed and heavy. There’s heat and a black fruit. The palate seizes control with grabby Vintus LLC. —M.S. cloying sensation to the finish, which is pithy, tannins and monolithic but unwavering grape and sweet and ultimately heavy and slightly bitter. black-fruit flavors. Hard and tannic especially on Calina 2009 Reserva Chardonnay Imported by Winebow. —M.S. the finish, with lingering lemony oak. A blend of 87 (Casablanca Valley); $10. Calina Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, Monastrell and usually makes a nice value Chardonnay, and this Morandé 2008 Gran Reserva Tempranillo. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. vintage is no different. The wine has a chunky 82 Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley); —M.S. dry-peach opening, which is backed by a round, $17. Yellow in color, with heavy aromas of

WineMag.com | 2 1 BUYING I GUIDE toasted oak and popcorn. There’s oxidation and SB, but clean, good and spunky, with citrus, nettle O. Fournier 2009 Urban Maule mealy qualities, and the fruit is baked while the and bell pepper on the nose. The palate is wet, 86 Sauvignon Blanc (Maule Valley); acidity is high, and thus overall it’s not well bal- fresh and snappy, and the flavors exhibit grassiness $11. A little soft and showing warmer-climate anced. Saving graces include lemon, baked corn along with tropical fruit and lime. Cleansing and aromas of passionfruit and tropical citrus. The and a so-so mouthfeel Imported by Morande crisp on the finish, and ready to drink now. palate is starting to fade just a bit, but it’s still USA. —M.S. Imported by Quintessential Wines. —M.S. pumping out grapefruit, lime and green apple. Perfectly fine to drink now or wait for the 2010 Asunto de Vino 2008 Chardonnay Caliterra 2009 Tributo Sauvignon version. Imported by Fine Estates from Spain. 81 (Central Valley); $12. Heavy, chunky 87 Blanc (Leyda Valley); $20. Green, Best Buy. —M.S. and waxy, and really not that appealing. There’s mildly vegetal and lightly tropical, with a tangy, more than enough baked notes, corn and mealy acid-driven palate and citrusy, sharp flavors of Palo Alto 2009 Reserva Sauvignon qualities. Not much else to say. Imported by grapefruit, tangerine and orange. Quick on the 86 Blanc (Maule Valley); $12. Honest, Testa Wines of the World. —M.S. finish but sizzling, with an abundance of mouth- citrusy aromas are simple and nice, while the washing acidity. Very food friendly even toward palate is spritzy, zesty and tastes mildly sweet but Sassy Bitch 2008 Chardonnay the end of its prescribed lifespan. Imported by also correct with mango, lime, apple and orange 81 (Central Valley); $10. Dull and cidery, Buena Cepa Wines. —M.S. flavors. Clean, fun and leaning toward sweet. A with mealy apple aromas and similar flavors. good value white to drink immediately. Imported Cono Sur 2009 Visión Sauvignon Offers almost nothing besides a pale straw color, by Banfi Vintners. —M.S. generic white fruit and corny side notes. Imported 87 Blanc (Casablanca Valley); $13. A by Seven Hills Trading Company. —M.S. classic whiff of green bell peppery meets the nose Albamar 2010 Sauvignon Blanc along with passion fruit and honeyed aromas. The (Casablanca Valley); $11. Sweaty palate is fresh but has some weight, a possible 85 and sharp on the nose, with punchy, oily, green reflection of the use of American Davis clones, GEWÜRZTRAMINER aromas. The palate is wet and basic in feel, with which produce fatter wines than French clones. nettle, grapefruit and passionfruit flavors. Good Cono Sur 2009 Visión Gewürz- Beyond that look for melon, nectarine and tropi- in terms of core qualities but not all that intense traminer (Casablanca Valley); $13. cal primary and finishing flavors. Imported by 87 or layered. A basic wine for general consumption. A highly aromatic wine. Lychee is the prime Vineyard Brands. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. scent along with white flowers, and the palate is oily but right, with lychee, ginger, spice and Amaral 2009 Sauvignon Blanc oops 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Cen- orange flavors. Plump but short on the finish, but (Leyda Valley); $19. Pungent aromas 86 tral Valley); $11. This wine varies in clean as a whole. Very nice for Chilean Gewürz. of asparagus, sea grass and lime are pure Leyda, 85 quality and perception based on when in its Imported by Vineyard Brands. and while the wine seems to be softening with lifespan you taste it. Now, toward the end of the age, it does offer enough acids to keep it moving. line, it’s tropical and hanging in there, with green Aresti 2009 Estate Selection Flavors of lime and green bean are green in apple, citrus and other typical SB aromas and fla- 85 Gewürztraminer (Curicó Valley); nature, and there’s seltzer and more lime on the $11. Basic and aromatic, but not what you’d finish. May already be past its sell date. Imported vors. Even with 15% Carmenère in the blend for label complex. This is easygoing Gewürz with a by Palm Bay International. —M.S. kicks, it’s standard and workmanlike. Imported sweet, honeyed set of flavors that offer a mod- by Schwartz Olcott Imports. —M.S. icum of spice. Honeysuckle and spice notes work Caliterra 2010 Reserva Sauvignon Matetic 2008 EQ Sauvignon Blanc the finish, and as a whole it’s a nice wine for sim- 86 Blanc (Casablanca Valley); $13. ple occasions. Imported by Broadbent Selections, Apple, grapefruit and citrus aromas are neither 84 (San Antonio); $20. The low-level Inc. —M.S. hard nor pushy, while the palate is fleshy and “good” rating is more a reflection of the wine’s offers standard citrus, grapefruit and passionfruit age than its core qualities. It’s flat and wayward Emiliana 2009 Natura Gewürz- flavors. Pithy on the finish but it holds steady. now, with no real direction to the nose or palate. 80 traminer (Rapel Valley); $11. Oddly Made for everyday drinking. Imported by Buena It tastes bland and semisweet, with dying acids tropical and floral, like an Argentine Torrontés. Cepa Wines. —M.S. and simple flavors of apple and melon. Go with Spritzy in the mouth but weird tasting and funky, the '09, then look for the '10. Imported by Quin- with cloying, unusual flavors that frankly don’t Leyda 2010 Garuma Vineyard tessential Wines. —M.S. taste very good. Imported by Banfi Vintners. 86 Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley); —M.S. $18. The bouquet delivers snap, clarity and a O. Fournier 2009 Centauri Sauvi- pure Leyda character, which revolves around 84 gnon Blanc (Leyda Valley); $22. ocean-influenced notes of asparagus and green Loved the 2008 but at this point in time I can’t SAUVIGNON BLANC bean. The palate has scour and sizzle, and the say the same about this bottling. It’s vegetal, with flavors suggest lime, green apple and asparagus. heavy bell pepper and asparagus aromas and Matetic 2009 EQ Sauvignon Blanc Zesty and tangy but also green and leaning flavors. Low-volume zest and kick indicates that it 88 (San Antonio); $20. Pricy for Chilean toward vegetal. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. has turned; best to wait for the 2010 because this

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 is too green and flat. Imported by Fine Estates it costs merely $8 makes the melon and apple as though it has turned; the nose is mildly oxi- from Spain. —M.S. aromas and flavors all the better. Citrusy as it dized and corny, and there’s a shortage of fresh- evolves, and clean throughout, with no wavering. ness. The palate is dull and narrow, with limited Echeverria 2010 Sauvignon Blanc A very nice white quaffing wine. Imported by apple and sour lime flavors. Acceptable but not at 83 (Curicó Valley); $9. Short on aromat- MJM Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. its peak anymore. Imported by Global Vineyard ics, with only a whiff of pear and corn. The palate Importers. —M.S. is soft and fleshy, with dry, limited papaya and Cono Sur 2009 Viognier (Colch- melony flavors. Lettuce and other green notes 85 agua Valley); $10. Comes across like carry the finish, which is bland and dilute. Will a straightforward warm-climate Viognier, mean- SWEET WINES have a very short lifespan. Imported by Ararat ing it’s full and waxy, with peach and nectarine Import/Export Co. LLC. —M.S. aromas and flavors, a touch of searing heat, and La Playa 2007 Late Harvest Sauvi- pithiness to the back palate and finish. It’s also 89 gnon Blanc (Colchagua Valley); Viña el Aromo 2009 Private juicy and zesty due to plenty of acids. Imported $14/375 ml. A smooth operator with peach, 83 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Maule by Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —M.S. botrytis and flower-blossom aromas. The palate Valley); $13. Hard, acrid and sweaty smelling, offers flow and a fine mouthfeel, and the flavors with a plump but dilute-feeling palate that shows Tamaya 2009 VCS (Limarí Valley); of orange, apricot and mango are fresh and tasty. flavors of bitter peach pit, white grapefruit and 85 $13. A controlled and clean white wine A thorough late-harvest wine that should elicit a citrus. Hard and bitter on the finish. Harmony is with apple and tropical fruit aromas and flavors. smile. Imported by Cabernet Corporation. Best questionable; overall quality is sketchy. Imported The palate feel is dry, snappy and zesty because Buy. —M.S. by Simone International. —M.S. the acidity is fresh and blazing. Not complex or complicated; hits you with green apple and citrus. Miguel Torres 2008 Vendimia Quasar 2010 Selection Sauvignon A blend of 50% Viognier with 35% Chardonnay 88 Tardía Late Harvest Riesling 82 Blanc (Curicó Valley); $6. Simple and and 15% Sauvignon Blanc. Imported by Ecosur (Curicó Valley); $25/375 ml. Apricot, neutral, with sweetness to the nose. It’s soft and Group, LLC. —M.S. nectarine and mellow botrytis aromas are wel- flabby in the mouth, with candied vanilla and coming, while the palate is intense and citrusy, melon flavors. Sweet and low in intensity, and Viña el Aromo 2009 Winemaker’s with full acidity. Flavors of orange, pineapple and already it’s dull despite being a new release. 83 Selection Viognier-Chardonnay mango are strong and tasty, while the finish is Imported by Ace Distributing. —M.S. (Maule Valley); $16. Heavy and smelling a bit honeyed and layered. This is a punchy dessert of creamed corn and wax. The palate is oddly wine that will age well for several years; drink Morandé 2009 Edición Limitada spritzy and big, with sweet, chunky apple and now through 2013. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby 81 Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Val- pineapple flavors. Finishes with sweet pineapple & Co. —M.S. ley); $22. This marks two years in a row that as well, and overall it’s probably too tropical and this wine ranks low. It’s dull, devoid of aromas chunky. Imported by Simone International. —M.S. Morandé 2008 Late Harvest and sour. Tastes green and bland, with little to 88 Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca latch onto. Just never gets going. Imported by Tamaya 2009 Reserva Viognier- Valley); $13/375 ml. Brown-gold in color, with Morande USA. —M.S. 82 Chardonnay (Limarí Valley); $16. a staunch, ripe bouquet of syrupy peach, apricot Lazy smelling, oddly spiced and off the grid in an and caramel. The palate is rich and full bodied, artificial, strange sort of way. Flavors of apple, with peach, apricot and sweet melon flavors. VIOGNIER spice and banana are mulled and cidery, while the Thick and satisfying on the finish, but still fairly finish is grabby and hot. Not as good as prior vin- juicy due to good core acidity. Imported by Cono Sur 2009 Visión Viognier tages. Imported by Ecosur Group, LLC. —M.S. Morande USA. Best Buy. —M.S. 88 (Colchagua Valley); $13. An inter- esting and unsual wine for Chile. Hailing from Echeverria 2007 Late Harvest Spe- grafted vines originally planted to Chenin Blanc RIESLING 86 cial Selection Sauvignon Blanc in 1956, this Viognier is superfloral, with oily aro- (Curicó Valley); $15/375 ml. Opens with mas along with apple blossom, nectarine and Cono Sur 2009 Riesling (Bío Bío honey, orange and a bit of harsh matchstick. The apricot. The palate has nice natural acidity and 87 Valley); $10. A true Riesling from the palate is sticky and comes up just short of cloying, sweet flavors of melon, mango and citrus. A little deep south of Chile with petrol and peach pit with candied melon, citrus and mango flavors. Fin- big and unfocused and sweet, but still intriguing aromas and then sweeter citrus flavors. It’s full, ishes sweet and sugary, with caramel and toffee and nicely made. Imported by Vineyard Brands. fresh and balanced, with a friendly, easy finish notes. Tasty but unctuous. Imported by Ararat Best Buy. —M.S. that suggests mango and pineapple. Starts out Import/Export Co. LLC. —M.S. Germanic but finishes tropical. Imported by Korta 2009 Viognier-Sauvignon Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —M.S. François Lurton 2008 Hacienda 87 Blanc-Chardonnay (Lontué Val- 84 Araucano Kochii Late Harvest ley); $8. A lively, surprising bargain made from Meli 2008 Riesling (Maule Valley); Sauvignon Blanc (Colchagua Valley); Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. That 82 $12. From the beginning this '08 seems $25/500 ml. Neutral on the nose to the point of

WineMag.com | 2 3 BUYING I GUIDE dull and mute. The palate is more wet than com- out its lychee and pear flavors. It is ripe, though vored PB, soft and creamy, with hints of almonds. plex, and the flavors of apple, candy and toffee well balanced. Imported by Cellar Door Selec- This is delicious apéritif wine; a pleasure to drink. are basic at best. For a half-bottle priced at $25, tions. —R.V. Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. this is underwhelming and far too simple in all facets. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. Dopff & Irion 2009 Gewürz- Mittnacht Frères 2009 Terre 87 traminer (Alsace); $19. For a 88 d’Etoiles Pinot Blanc (Alsace); $18. Gewürz, this is restrained, a soft, open and attrac- Classic, soft, easy and broad Pinot Blanc. There is ALSACE tively easy wine, lightly hinting at lychee and pear an attractive buttery character to go with the juice. Drink now. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & peach and lime flavors. The wine is ripe, with GEWÜRZTRAMINER Co. —R.V. pure fruit and a final tang of acidity. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. Rieflé 2004 Steinert Grand Cru Lucien Albrecht 2009 Réserve 91 Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $NA. An 87 Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $22. Rieflé 2006 Pinot Blanc Bonheur almost racy, aromatic wine, all fresh acidity Intensely perfumed and very spicy, with a core of 87 Convivial Pinot Blanc (Alsace); before the spice and tropical fruits kick in. In a dryness in the richness. The wine feels weighty, $NA. Ripe and soft, shot through with some curious way, it is the most readily drinkable of with some pepper, honey and sweet fruits; very minerality, this has attractive honey and green the three Gewürztraminers that Rieflé produces, full in the mouth. Imported by Pasternak Wine apple flavors, touching on almond. The aftertaste precisely because the richness of the fruit is bal- Imports. —R.V. keeps the softness, but adds good, fresh acidity. anced with the acidity. Imported by Serendipity Imported by Serendipity Wine Imports. —R.V. Wine Imports. —R.V. Rieflé 2005 Gewürztraminer 87 (Alsace); $NA. Gewürz is always the Rieflé 2005 Pinot Blanc (Alsace); Rieflé 2004 Côte de Rouffach easiest of grapes to spot, and this wine has all the 87 $NA. The simplest wine in Alsace is 90 Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $NA. right varietal characteristics—the floral charac- often Pinot Blanc, meaning, as in this case, the Aromas of canteloupe and spice set the scene for ter, the lychee flavors and the surprising pink wine is pure drinking pleasure, with fresh apricot a powerful expression of Gewürztraminer. Every- grapefruit and sugary acidity. It is not sweet, but and pineapple. An excellent apéritif wine. thing is here—the rose petals and spice, the is definitely rich. Imported by Serendipity Wine Imported by Serendipity Wine Imports. —R.V. lychee and star fruit flavors, the sense of the Imports. —R.V. exotic, and finishing with some distinct acidity, a Dopff & Irion 2006 Pinot Blanc product of the cooler 2004 growing season. Gustave Lorentz 2009 Réserve 86 (Alsace); $12. Crisp and soft, backed Imported by Serendipity Wine Imports. Editors’ 86 Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $24. A with bone-dry acidity. Green apple, green plums, Choice. —R.V. classic, there's no mistaking this spicy confection it’s all about freshness and light. Refreshing, with of a wine. It has a great blast of lychee, Chinese just a shot of spice and pepper. Imported by Rieflé 2004 Vendanges Tardives gooseberries and spice, with just a hint of acidity Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. 90 Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $NA. This in the background. Imported by Quintessential is not just a late harvest wine, because there are Wines. —R.V. Dopff & Irion 2009 Pinot Blanc definite dry flavors of botrytis grapes. While the 85 (Alsace); $12. A soft and open wine, obvious spice of the Gewürztraminer is subdued Domaine Zinck 2008 Gewürz- with a charm and delicacy; green fruits lie over by the richness and sweetness, it still has all the fat, 85 traminer (Alsace); $19. A medium- bright acidity. It is a lively, bright, uncomplicated, opulent character of the grape. It almost certainly sweet, spicy wine that offers good fresh guava easy-sipping wine. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby needs to age, to bring the powerful botrytis charac- flavor to balance the ripe texture. The finish is & Co. —R.V. ter into balance with the wine’s structure; in 5–6 fresh. Screw cap. —R.V. years, it will be impressive. Imported by Serendip- Gustave Lorentz 2009 Réserve ity Wine Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 85 Pinot Blanc (Alsace); $20. Rounded PINOT BLANC and soft, this is immediately attractive and ready Mittnacht Frères 2009 Les Terres to drink. It has pear-fruit flavors, with a hint of 88 Blanches Gewürztraminer (Alsace); Lucien Albrecht 2009 Cuvée Bal- spice and light acidity. Treat this as an apéritif $26. This is a wine that doesn’t mess with niceties, 88 thazar Pinot Blanc (Alsace); $17. wine. Screw cap. Imported by Quintessential but is right in your face. Intensely perfumed, With almost Chardonnay richness, this is a ripe, Wines. —R.V. almost a caricature of Gewürz, this is rich, moving smooth, creamy apple-like wine. The palate is into sweetness, concentrated and very spicy. concentrated and spicy, with only a light showing Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. of acidity to give a final bite. Imported by Paster- PINOT GRIS nak Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Willm 2009 Réserve Gewürz- Domaine Weinbach 2008 88 traminer (Alsace); $15. Properly Marc Kreydenweiss 2004 Les 94 Altenbourg Pinot Gris (Alsace); spicy, this is smooth and rich, a wine that has a 88 Charmes Kritt Pinot Blanc (Alsace); $48. Rich and sweet wine in character with a broad texture along with some sweetness to bring $19. A ripely smooth, lime- and white-pear fla- Vendange Tardive. It is gorgeous and opulent,

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 while balanced and elegant. The acidity is in won- flavors of pineapple and quince. Imported by derful contrast to the smoky honey and orange Pasternak Wine Imports. —R.V. RIESLING zest flavors. A hint of bitterness suggests, for sure, that this wine will be even more wonderful when Marc Kreydenweiss 2005 Clos Lucien Albrecht 2005 Pfingstberg aged. Imported by Vineyard Brands. Cellar 89 Rebberg Aux Vignes Pinot Gris 92 Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace); $43. Selection. —R.V. (Alsace); $44. A smoothly rich wine, dry but Now maturing gently and with elegance, this is an rounded with tropical peach and apricot flavors exceptional wine. With its hint of toast, spice and Rieflé 2004 Steinert Grand Cru that roll off the tongue. There’s a smoky charac- white fruit flavors pierced by acidity and smoothed Pinot Gris (Alsace); $NA. The con- 93 ter, while the acidity only shows through in the by vanilla, it has power along with elegance. centration and richness of old-vine Pinot Gris is aftertaste. Richness pervades throughout. Imported by Pasternak Wine Imports. —R.V. all here. This is definitely a wine on the sweet Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. side, going for superripe peaches, white apricots, Rieflé 2004 Steinert Grand Cru gorgeous spice and not much in the way of acid- Riesling (Alsace); $NA. Willm 2008 Réserve Pinot Gris 92 An ity. Revel in this wine for its opulence. Imported immensely ripe Riesling, full of dense white fruit (Alsace); $15. Black currant and white by Serendipity Wine Imports. —R.V. 89 flavors, this wine is still an infant. The structure plums give this wine its fresh edge and its rich- and the richness of the fruit are there waiting to ness. It has an opulent feel to it, with concen- Marc Kreydenweiss 2004 Le be aged, up to 10 years or more. A powerful trated spice inside the round texture. The end 92 Moine Moenchberg Grand Cru wine, made with skill by Jean-Claude and Pinot Gris (Alsace); $38. This is certainly rich, brings out the relief of crisp acidity. Imported by Christophe Rieflé. Imported by Serendipity Wine but that’s not what is so important. What gives Cellar Door Selections. —R.V. Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. this wine its style is the balance between the can- taloup and mango flavors and the layers of acidity Rieflé 2006 Bonheur Convivial Dopff & Irion 2004 Schoenen- and spice. Fine and elegant, this should develop 88 Pinot Gris (Alsace); $NA. Rich and bourg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace); well over several years. Imported by Wilson 91 spicy, this is a fine, dry, peppery Pinot Gris. In the $37. The extra richness of a Grand Cru shows Daniels Ltd. —R.V. mouth there’s weight and ripeness, as well as well in this wine. The texture is intense, with some fat, yellow fruits. There’s a touch of lychee some good concentrated green and white fruit Rieflé 2005 Côte de Rouffach as well, giving an exotic edge to the finish. flavors supplemented by minerality, steel, struc- Pinot Gris (Alsace); $NA. The Rieflé 91 Imported by Serendipity Wine Imports. —R.V. ture and a taut, vibrant finish. Imported by Drey- style of Pinot Gris is to emphasize the ripe apri- fus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. cot flavors. This wine does that, but adds an extra Dopff & Irion 2004 Les Maquis- complexity with its smoky aromas, and its dense ards Pinot Gris (Alsace); $25. Mittnacht Frères 2007 Rosacker spice and tropical fruit character. It isn’t sweet, 87 This Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace); $43. but it is certainly rich. Imported by Serendipity feels light and rather dilute. It has varietal pepper 91 Mineral and stone flavors abound, with perfumed Wine Imports. —R.V. and some spice, but the main effect is one of acidity, crispness and freshness. The lychee trop- aromas and fruit totally textured by the terroir. Lucien Albrecht 2006 Pfingstberg ical fruit element is underplayed in favor of crisp- White currant fruits are here, built around a firm 90 Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace); $43. ness. It should certainly work with food. core and piled with acidity. Will benefit from Rich and medium dry, presenting considerable Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. aging for several more years, but can be enjoyed freshness as well as spice, tropical fruits and now. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar intense acidity. The texture is dense and concen- Gustave Lorentz 2009 Réserve Selection. —R.V. trated, full and fruity, just showing signs of matu- Pinot Gris (Alsace); $24. Big, fat 87 Mittnacht Frères 2009 Les Fossiles rity. Imported by Pasternak Wine Imports. —R.V. Pinot Gris, with the typical spice and ripe fruit. Riesling (Alsace); $20. Big. ripe and The wine is full and round, attractively filled with 90 Mittnacht Frères 2009 Les Petits generous, showing some mineral character while peach fruits and a hint of fine acidity. Screw cap. Grains Pinot Gris (Alsace); $24. also having concentrated apricot, peach and 90 Imported by Quintessential Wines. —R.V. Full and attractively spicy, this is also elegant pineapple flavors, leavened with honey and layers of acidity. Like all fine Rieslings, this needs to even in its richness. There is weighty lychee, Chi- Rieflé 2005 Pinot Gris (Alsace); nese gooseberries and softness rather than sweet- age. Hold for at least four years. Imported by $NA. Rieflé is one of the rare Alsace ness. It feels rich and full in the mouth. Imported 87 Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. producers who indicates the sweetness and rich- by Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. ness levels of their wine. This wine rates a level Rieflé 2005 Côte de Rouffach Ries- Lucien Albrecht 2009 Cuvée just below the median of the chart, a fair assess- 90 ling (Alsace); $NA. With its impres- 89 Romanus Pinot Gris (Alsace); $21. ment of the medium-sweet taste, emphasizing sive depth of flavor, this has all the right aromatic, Named after Romanus Albrecht who started the the richness of the grape and giving flavors of mineral and pure fruit character of Alsace Ries- family wine business in 1425, this is a finely per- lychee and spice. Imported by Serendipity Wine ling. There is structure, dry tannins, green fruits, fumed wine, with spice, a rich, soft texture and Imports. —R.V. currants and a great lifted, vibrant character. This

WineMag.com | 2 5 BUYING I GUIDE will age well—give it five years. Imported by ling. It is light in texture, clean and refreshing, Dopff & Irion NV Rosé (Crémant Serendipity Wine Imports. —R.V. with some crisp pear fruit and green plum skin 85 d’Alsace); $33. An attractively bal- tannins. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. — anced wine, its flavors of wild strawberry and Dopff & Irion 2004 Les Murailles R.V. white peach giving some richness, while the crisp 89 Riesling (Alsace); $23. An intense, acidity tightens its texture. Attractive and fruity ; fruity wine, with concentrated steely, stony fla- Audrey et Christine Binner 2008 would work well as an apéritif or with food. vors. Initially austere, it opens into fine, ripe aro- 86 Vignoble de Katzenheim Riesling Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. mas. But it remains on the dry, crisp side, a (Alsace); $NA. Very aromatic wine, perfumed, definite food wine. Needs 2–3 years of aging. wearing its ripe fruit on its sleeve. It has weight Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. and richness, perhaps too much, because it has OTHER ALSACE WINES lost its varietal character. More restraint would Dopff & Irion 2009 Riesling help. Glass stopper. Imported by USA Wine Mittnacht Frères 2009 Cuvée 88 (Alsace); $15. Edging towards mineral, Imports. —R.V. 87 Gyotaku (Alsace); $18. A blend of this is a perfumed Riesling, its white fruits bright Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois created to go with and delicate, fitting well into the crisp acidity. It Lucien Albrecht 2009 Réserve Ries- Japanese food, Gyotaku is a soft, easy wine, very has a textured bite to it, bringing out the stony 86 ling (Alsace); $20. A soft, open style of balanced and harmonious, with just a light hint of character. Worth aging 2–3 years. Imported by Riesling, just hinting at a steely core. It has per- sweetness and spice. Definitely a wine for sushi. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. fumed white fruits, a youthful texture of apple Screw cap. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. skins, followed by ripe acidity. It needs a few more —R.V. Gustave Lorentz 2009 Réserve months in bottle to bring it into balance. 88 Riesling (Alsace); $24. Surprisingly Imported by Pasternak Wine Imports. —R.V. Rieflé 2005 Côte de Rouffach soft for a Riesling, which gives the wine an easy Pinot Noir (Alsace); $NA. Easy, attractiveness. Lively, fresh acidity and green 86 fruity and softly tannic, showing which shows apple and melon flavors follow through to the CRÉMANT D’ALSACE fresh redcurrant fruits. Like many Alsace Pinot end, perhaps softened by a sense of the wine Noirs, it lacks power, but replaces that with a being off-dry. Imported by Quintessential Wines. Mittnacht Frères NV Crémant vibrant fruity, juicy character. Imported by —R.V. d’Alsace; $23. A richer than usual 89 Serendipity Wine Imports. —R.V. Crémant, ripe and full-bodied, with great pear Rieflé 2005 Riesling (Alsace); $NA. and ripe apple flavors over soft acidity. There is a Willm 2009 Gentil Réserve A racy, light wine, fresh and floating with delicious mouthfeel, very mellifluous and 88 (Alsace); $12. Gentil is used in Alsace white and green pear fruits flavors, and just a rounded, with just the right acidity to give final 86 to describe a blended wine. This is soft and touch of perfume. This is classic, fresh, fruity crispness. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. smooth, making a great apéritif, with just an edge Riesling, delicious to drink, with crisp acidity at —R.V. of crispness to go over the rich pear and green the end. Imported by Serendipity Wine Imports. plum flavors. Finishes with a burst of pineapple. —R.V. Dopff & Irion NV Cuvée Prestige 88 Brut (Crémant d’Alsace); $30. A Imported by Cellar Door Selections. —R.V. Willm 2009 Réserve Riesling mature, serious wine, showing toasty flavors that Dopff & Irion 2006 Crustaces Sil- (Alsace); $13. Crisp and steely, are rounding out the fruit. A definite food wine, 88 vaner (Alsace); $11. touched by white perfumes and intense acidity, its richness tempered with a bite of acidity and 85 A fresh, crisp this is a wine with a sharp blade of flavors that cut delicious final crispness. Imported by Dreyfus, wine, designed (as the seafood-laden label graph- through the texture. Apples, citrus and kumquat Ashby & Co. —R.V. ically shows) to be drunk with shellfish. Blending all blend attractively together. Imported by Cellar crisp Sylvaner with a little fattening Pinot Blanc, Door Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. Dopff & Irion 2005 Millésime L’Ex- bone-dry flavors of pink grapefruit, the wine does 87 ception Brut (Crémant d’Alsace); the job perfectly. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Audrey et Christine Binner 2004 $NA. The fruit is fresh and crisp with a lightly Co. —R.V. 87 Schlossberg Grand Cru Riesling perfumed floral character, its pear and green (Alsace); $NA. A full-bodied wine, structured apple flavors still young. It needs a couple of Dopff & Irion 2009 Gentil (Alsace); and textured. It lacks acidity and crispness, years more to fully blend together. Imported by 84 $15. A soft, off-dry wine, full of light- instead giving honey and ripe yellow fruits. It is Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. weight currant fruits. It is gentle, in a fruity, so rich, there are hints even of late harvest grapes apéritif style. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. here. The finish is spoiled by pepper. Imported Dopff & Irion NV Brut (Crémant —R.V. by USA Wine Imports. —R.V. 86 d’Alsace); $24. Soft and creamy, with pear and melon flavors dominating the bright Dopff & Irion 2009 Rosé (Alsace); Dopff & Irion 2006 Riesling acidity. It’s an attractive wine, easy on the palate 84 $22. A soft, fat, caramel-flavored wine, 87 (Alsace); $15. Lightly perfumed and with a light touch of nuttiness to finish. Imported showing strawberry fruits and a creamy texture. It floral, this is classic mineral and gunflint Ries- by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. lacks acidity, leaving a wine that needs to be

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 drunk soon. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. CROZES-HERMITAGE GIGONDAS

Domaine Philippe & Vincent Domaine des Florets 2007 Saveur RHÔNE 90 Jaboulet 2007 Nouvelère (Crozes- 88 des Dentelles (Gigondas); $40. Hermitage); $42. Slightly more concentrated This powerfully built Gigondas appears to have HERMITAGE and structured than the Jaboulet’s regular bot- 5–8 years of aging potential, so perhaps in time tling of Crozes-Hermitage, the 2007 Nouvelère this rating will look conservative. For the moment, the wine displays balanced aromas and M. Chapoutier 2006 Le Méal features fresh cherry and berry fruit admirably flavors of garrigue, leather and plum along with a 95 (Ermitage); $270. Although 2006 supported by hints of oak. It’s medium to full in firm tannic structure. The blend is 80% won’t go down as a great vintage in the northern body, with soft tannins and a slightly dusty finish. Grenache, 10% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. Rhône, Chapoutier’s selections parcellaires are Drink now–2020. Imported by Wilson Daniels Imported by Bourgeois Family Selections. —J.C. still top notch. Le Méal gets the nod this year as Ltd. —J.C. the most powerful of the group, with massive Gabriel Meffre 2007 Domaine de espresso and black olive elements tinged with Tardieu-Laurent 2007 Vieilles 88 Longue Toque (Gigondas); $35. meat and underlain by a bed of ripe blueberries. 90 Vignes (Crozes-Hermitage); $41. Possessed of mouthfilling plum and black cherry Long and mouthwatering on the finish, look for Typical for Tardieu-Laurent, this wine is strongly fruit, this supple-textured Gigondas doesn’t offer this wine to approach maturity by 2016; drink well marked by its barrel treatment, which may be a ton of nuance but is well made and satisfies for through 2025 or longer. Imported by Terlato enough to put off traditionalists. But the quality its persistent and authoritative flavors. Drink it Wines International. Cellar Selection. —J.C. and concentration levels of the black cherry fruit over the next 4–5 years. Imported by Gabriel underneath are high, and this rather full-bodied, Meffre America. —J.C. M. Chapoutier 2006 Le Pavillon muscular Crozes should develop nicely over the 94 (Ermitage); $316. Le Pavillon is next 5–7 years. Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. E. Guigal 2006 Gigondas; $30. Gui- drawn from Les Bessards, the most granitic of —J.C. 87 gal customarily releases many of the Hermitage’s climats, resulting in a wine with pro- firm’s red wines after additional cellaring, so this nounced structure and minerailty. Hints of cinna- Domaine Philippe & Vincent 2006 is still on the market. It’s nicely balanced for current drinking despite some slightly drying mon and clove join plum and crushed stone on Jaboulet 2007 (Crozes-Hermitage); 89 tannins on the finish, which only serve to accen- the nose, while the concentrated flavors suggest $31. A juicy, fruit-forward rendition of Crozes- tuate the mouthwatering black cherry fruit. iron or beef blood as well. Drink 2015–2030. Hermitage, with game- and herb-tinged cherries Leather and spice notes add welcome nuance. Imported by Terlato Wines International. Cellar and berries. It’s medium bodied, with silky tan- Imported by Vintus LLC. —J.C. Selection. —J.C. nins that make it immediately approachable. Drink now–2015. Imported by Wilson Daniels Domaine des Florets 2007 M. Chapoutier 2006 L’Ermite Ltd. —J.C. 85 Gigondas; $27. A simple, quaffable 94 (Ermitage); $345. The 2006 L’Ermite Gigondas, with bright cherry fruit on the nose boasts a wonderfully fragrant bouquet of cracked Delas Frères 2007 Les Launes and on the palate, modest tannins and an easygo- pepper, beef blood and plummy fruit, but is a 88 (Crozes-Hermitage); $21. The 2007 ing personality. Drink it over the next few years. full-bodied, powerful expression of Syrah on the Les Launes starts off with a harmonious mix of Imported by Bourgeois Family Selections. —J.C. mouth, bulging with crushed stone and espresso Mexican chocolate, clove, leather and cherry aro- nuances. It’s velvety without being soft, the tan- mas, and the flavors closely mirror them. The Andrieux & Fils 2007 Gigondas; nins showing supple strength. Drink 2015–2030. wine is mouthfilling yet fresh, and the only quib- 82 $28. Marked by a touch of nail polish on Imported by Terlato Wines International. Cellar ble is that the flavors fade a bit quickly on the the nose and a slight pickle-brine note on the Selection. —J.C. finish. Drink now–2015. Imported by Maisons palate, this is otherwise a medium-bodied, cherry- fruited blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah. Marques & Domaines USA. —J.C. M. Chapoutier 2006 Les Greffieux Imported by Vinum Distribution Inc. —J.C. 92 (Ermitage); $205. The supplest and Ferraton Pere et Fils 2007 La most ready to drink of Chapoutier’s 2006 88 Matinière (Crozes-Hermitage); CÔTES DU RHÔNE Ermitages, Les Greffieux is muscular yet silky, $22. An easily accessible, easy-drinking style of seamlessly blending savory notes of tapenade, Crozes-Hermitage, Ferraton’s 2007 La Matinière VILLAGES soy-marinated beef and blueberries and ending displays a lovely balance between clean red fruit Domaine Saint Andéol 2007 on a lasting note of espressso. Already approach- (cherries, raspberries), baking spices, cracked 91 Séduction Cairanne (Côtes-du- able, it should continue to drink well through at pepper and a faintly herbal tinge. Drink it now Rhône Villages); $17. Perhaps it is this wine’s least 2020. Imported by Terlato Wines Interna- and over the next few years. Imported by Baron elevated proportion of Carignan (15%) that gives tional. —J.C. Francois Ltd. —J.C. it such a lovely and distinctive perfume, incorpo-

WineMag.com | 2 7 BUYING I GUIDE rating hints of ground pepper, cinnamon or clove, Château du Trignon 2007 Sablet and black olive aromas complemented by dense, and ripe cherries. It’s medium in body, verging on 88 (Côtes-du-Rhône Villages); $22. A slightly chewy fruit on the palate. Concentrated creamy in texture because of the supple tannins, delicious middleweight red for drinking over the and long, if not terribly elegant; pair it with steak and features plenty of spice on the long finish. next few years, Trignon’s 2007 Sablet is a lushly or roasts. Imported by First Vine, LLC. Editors’ Drink now–2015. Imported by MROI LLC. Edi- fruited wine with creamy-textured tannins, ample Choice. —J.C. tors’ Choice. —J.C. black cherry and plum flavors and just a touch of spice for complexity. Imported by David Milli- Domaine Nicolas Boiron 2008 Mas du Goudareau 2006 Côtes- gan Selections. —J.C. 87 Côtes-du-Rhône; $16. From the fam- 90 du-Rhône Villages; $23. A nice value ily behind Bosquet des Papes in Châteauneuf, in a ready-to-drink Côtes du Rhône, with the Mas du Goudareau 2005 Cairanne this is a solid Côtes du Rhône, with modest tan- suppleness of a few years’ bottle age married to 88 (Côtes-du-Rhône Villages); $44. nins but decent structure and typical notes of plummy, black cherry fruit and savory elements Dominated by aromas of dried spices, cedar and leather, dried cherries, chocolate and cinnamon. of coffee, black olive and roasted meat. Drink leather, this full-bodied, lusty red shows more oak Drink it over the next few years. Imported by now–2018. Imported by Domaine Select Wine than fruit, although the tannins are clearly ripe Wines of France. —J.C. Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. and the body of the wine adequately supports the ample cedar and vanilla flavors. You could drink it Domaine du Bois de Saint-Jean Perrin & Fils 2007 Peyre Blanche now for its bold flavors, or wait 2–3 years to see if 86 2008 Côtes-du-Rhône; $15. Starts 90 Cairanne (Côtes-du-Rhône Vil- it attains greater harmony over time. Imported off slightly tarry or rubbery, but soon unfolds to lages); $25. This Cairanne bottling is a solid by Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. reveal hints of jammy fruit and chocolate bal- addition to the Perrin family’s operation, featur- anced against olive notes. A bit chunky, but solid, Château du Trignon 2007 Plan de ing slightly lifted aromas of crushed herbs, with a dusting of fine tannins like cocoa on the Dieu (Côtes-du-Rhône Villages); cracked pepper and ripe cherries. Flavors of 87 finish. Drink now–2013. Imported by LVDH $19. Wines from Plan de Dieu are rarely seen in cherries and dried spices fill the mouth, with just USA Inc. —J.C. the U.S., but this is an attractive offering from the enough dusty tannins to provide structural Quiot family’s holdings in that region. It’s dark in integrity and modest longevity. Drink now–2017. The Rhôning Stones 2007 Côtes- profile, with aromas and flavors that veer from Imported by Vineyard Brands. Editors’ du-Rhône; $10. A typical southern black cherry toward black olive and coffee. It’s 86 Choice.—J.C. Rhône blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah and medium bodied, with some fine, slightly dusty tan- 10% Mourvèdre mixed up behind a modern nins on the finish. Drink it over the next few years. Château du Trignon 2007 Rasteau label, this is creamy and supple in texture, with Imported by David Milligan Selections. —J.C. 89 (Côtes-du-Rhône Villages); $25. colluding notes of cherry and black olive. Drink The Quiot family’s Château du Trignon is located Domaine de la Renjarde 2007 now. Imported by Prestige Wine Group. Best in Gigondas, but has holdings in several nearby Massif d’Uchaux (Côtes-du-Rhône Buy. —J.C. villages. The 2007 Rasteau is rather fruit driven 86 Villages); $12. Fresh in style, especially for the (cherries and plums), but manages to fold in hints Bastide de Beauvert 2007 Côtes- hot, dry 2007 vintage, reflecting the slightly du-Rhône; $11. of chocolate, anise and French roast. Supple on higher elevation of the Massif d’Uchaux, this 85 A typical medium- the finish. Drink now–2015. Imported by David medium-bodied wine offers oodles of cherry- bodied Côtes du Rhône, the 2007 Bastide de Milligan Selections. —J.C. berry fruit. It’s nothing too serious or complex, Beauvert features aromas of cherry, clove and just good, quaffable pleasure to consume over the sweaty leather, and flavors that run along similar Château du Trignon 2006 Rasteau next 2–3 years. Imported by Epic Wines. —J.C. lines. Mature; drink now. Imported by Scoperta 89 (Côtes-du-Rhône Villages); $25. Importing Co. Inc. —J.C. This medium-bodied red displays an array of Perrin & Fils 2007 L’Andéol Rasteau dried spices alongside ample black-cherry fruit. 86 (Côtes-du-Rhône Villages); $25. On Ferraton Pere et Fils 2008 It’s fresher and firmer than the 2007 (also the dusty, earthy side of the Rhône spectrum, with 85 Samorëns (Côtes-du-Rhône); $14. reviewed this month), featuring some slightly hints of cordite accenting cherry fruit. It’s undeni- Amply displays the charms and shortocmings of dusty tannins on the finish. Drink now–2015 or ably fresh and vibrant, just lacks some of the rich- the 2008 vintage: complex if slightly herbal so. Imported by David Milligan Selections. —J.C. ness characteristic of the 2007 vintage. Imported cherry fruit, medium body and great freshness. by Vineyard Brands. —J.C. Drink now–2013. Imported by Baron Francois Domaine Saint Andéol 2006 Pres- Ltd. —J.C. 89 tige Cairanne (Côtes-du-Rhône Villages); $20. Attractive in a lush, superripe CÔTES DU RHÔNE Michel Picard 2007 Côtes-du- sort of way, with notes of prune and chocolate 85 Rhône; $10. On the lighter side of the amid the brandied cherries. Hints of coffee Domaine Fond Croze 2007 Cuvée Côtes du Rhône spectrum, with a slightly briary emerge on the slightly warm finish. Drink this 90 Shyrus (Côtes-du-Rhône); $20. Full note to the cherry fruit. Turns more olivaceous on full-bodied red over the next few years. Imported bodied, even a bit chunky in build, this 100% the silky-textured finish. Drink now. Imported by by MROI LLC. —J.C. Syrah Côtes du Rhône features blueberry, vanilla Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —J.C.

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 Clerget 2007 Pont du Rhône Imported by Robert Kacher Imports. Best Buy. Le Salette 2005 Pergole Vece 84 (Côtes-du-Rhône); $9. Light and —J.C. 94 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- fruity, with cherry notes and touches of clay-like sico); $118. Pergole Vece opens with a beautiful earthiness. Simple and clean, and priced accord- Château d’Or et de Gueules 2008 nose of black fruit, molasses, chocolate, blackberry ingly. Imported by Tri-Vin Imports. —J.C. 84 Qu’es Aquo (Costières de Nîmes); jam and loads of vanilla or cinnamon spice. It’s a $37. Made solely from old-vine Carignan, this smooth, soft and textured wine with a long, deli- Vignobles Boudinaud 2008 Côté wine does stand out as being unique among a cious finish. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. 84 Jardin (Côtes-du-Rhône); $12. Less flight of Costières de Nîme wines. It’s slightly successful than some previous bottlings under pruny, marked by dried fruit, leather and clove, Le Salette 2006 Pergole Vece this label, the 2008 seems earthier and less fruit- turning a touch metallic on the finish. Imported 94 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- forward, with coffee and tree bark notes dominat- by Robert Kacher Imports. —J.C. sico); $NA. Here’s a fabulous expression of the ing this medium-bodied wine. The blend is 55% best of the Valpolicella with smooth, rich aromas Grenache, 30% Syrah and 15% Mourvèdre. Château de la Tuilerie 2008 Syrah of chocolate, roasted almond, black fruit and Imported by Robert Kacher Imports. —J.C. 85 (Costières de Nîmes); $18. This is a mesquite wood. The wine excels in the mouth, relatively lightweight Costières de Nîmes, despite where it shows soft, silky tannins and a very long, Père Anselme 2008 La Grivelière being 100% Syrah. Modest cherry and black pep- tasty finish. Imported by Vias Imports. Cellar 82 Tete de Cuvee (Côtes-du-Rhône); per notes are pretty enough, just lack intensity Selection. —M.L. $10. A disappointing effort This is earthy and and fade a bit quickly on the finish. Imported by dank, with dark, leathery notes contrasting Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. Masi 2003 Mazzano (Amarone sharply with bright acids on the finish. Imported 94 della Valpolicella Classico); $170. by Opici Wines. —J.C. Mazzano is a very special expression of Amarone ITALY with seamless integration and persistency. The beauty is that it delivers power and elegance, COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES AMARONE intensity and sophistication without missing a beat. There are firm tannins here followed by soft Château de la Tuilerie 2007 Eole Remo Farina 2004 Monte Fante layers of spice, leather and ripe fruit. Imported 90 Rouge (Costières de Nîmes); $45. A 95 Riserva (Amarone della Valpoli- by Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. luxury cuvée aged in oak for up to two years, this is cella Classico); $90. This Riserva Amarone —M.L. marked by the barrel, but it’s most intriguing fea- proves to be an extremely elegant and sophisti- ture is an intricate herbal overlay to the plummy cated wine with enormously rich notes of black Tenuta Sant’Antonio 2005 Campo fruit. This blend of Grenache and Syrah is chunky fruit supported by savory tones of exotic spice, 94 dei Gigli (Amarone della Valpoli- and extracted, meant for aging, although not unap- leather, dried tobacco and beef jerky. The wine is cella); $70. One of the best Amarones available, proachable. Drink now–2015. Imported by beautifully polished and smooth, but it also deliv- Campo dei Gigli is a powerhouse wine with loads Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. ers unforgettable power and depth. Imported by of luscious berry intensity followed by a mixed Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. Cellar Selec- box of Indian spice. Ground clove, cardamom Domaine Bahourat 2008 Costières tion. —M.L. and cinnamon all play a role in the beautiful bou- 89 de Nîmes; $12. A delicious example of quet and these aromas are matched by a succu- Costières de Nîmes, this blend of 80% Syrah and Zenato 2004 Riserva Sergio lent, rich mouthfeel. Imported by Dalla Terra 20% Grenache combines bright raspberry fruit 95 Zenato (Amarone della Valpoli- Winery Direct. —M.L. with hints of garrigue for a taste experience that’s cella Classico); $130. Gorgeous, rich and pen- notable for its complexity. The tannins are sup- etrating, this wine excels in terms of the elegance Zenato 2006 Amarone della ple, while the long finish features hints of choco- of its aromas. Layers of black fruit, spice, 94 Valpolicella Classico; $70. Beauti- late. The review is of the “white label” wine, but mesquite, beef jerky, cola and soy sauce are per- fully polished and bright, Zenato delivers a the importer claims the wine is identical to that fectly integrated and the wine shows plump, ripe knock-out Amarone that shows impressive rich- under the Cuvée Elisabeth label. Imported by richness on the close. Promises to age 10 years or ness and intensity. Soft oak flavors of spice, Bourgeois Family Selections. Best Buy. —J.C. more. Imported by Winebow. Cellar Selection. vanilla and leather are followed by bright cherry —M.L. and blackberry aromas. The wine is penetrating Château Grande Cassagne 2008 and extremely smooth in the mouth. Imported 87 Grenache-Syrah (Costières de Cesari 2004 Il Bosco (Amarone by Winebow. —M.L. Nîmes); $12. A blend of 60% Grenache and 94 della Valpolicella); $82. This is a 40% Syrah, this is another example of the fine lovely Amarone that offers seemingly limitless Begali 2004 Monte Cà Bianca values coming out of the Costières de Nîmes. It’s intensity and personality. The wine is richly redo- 93 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- a medium-bodied wine with a velvety texture and lent of red cherry, chocolate, spice and tobacco. sico); $NA. Monte Cà Bianca shows the very a fine balance between herbs and raspberry fruit It tastes sweet and plush and delivers a very best of Valpolicella tradition and territory. The on the one hand and dark berries and earth on smooth and supple texture. Very nice. Imported Begali family had been selling grapes to Bolla for the other. Drink it over the next 2–3 years. by Opici Wines. —M.L. decades before breaking off to make their own

WineMag.com | 2 9 BUYING I GUIDE wine. Amarone lovers should be very happy they with loads of density and pure aromatic intensity. dark fruit, spice and smoke. Possible food pair- did, as this is a rich, penetrating and absolutely The wine opens with a dark, inky color and aro- ings include red meat or roast pork that would delicious wine. Imported by Vignaioli. Cellar mas of dark chocolate, cedar wood, toasted match the stamina, but also the overall softness of Selection. —M.L. almond, black fruit and molasses. Imported by the tannins. Imported by Vignaioli. —M.L. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. Begali 2005 Monte Cà Bianca Speri 2006 Vigneto Monte San- 93 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- David Sterza 2006 Amarone della 93 t’Urbano (Amarone della Valpoli- sico); $58. This is a knockout wine with amazing 93 Valpolicella Classico; $40. This is a cella Classico); $90. A thick and juicy extraction and power that fuels a long, pleasura- beautiful Amarone that opens with elegant and Amarone with rich layers of chocolate, exotic ble experience. The wine opens with aromas of not overdone aromas of mature fruit, cherry cola, spice, black cherry, blueberry tart and tobacco. black cherry, chocolate fudge, exotic spice, cigar box, spice and toasted nut. Acidity, spice, It feels dense and rich in the mouth and its natu- mesquite and asphalt. It’s supple and dense with heat and smooth tannins show excellent balance ral heft would stand up to sharp cheddar. touches of sweet spice on the fade. Imported by on the close. Imported by The Italian Wine Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. Siema LLC. —M.L. Trader. —M.L. Tenuta Sant’Antonio 2006 Brunelli 2005 Campo Inferi Riserva Giuseppe Campagnola 2006 Cate- 93 Selezione Antonio Castagnedi 93 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- 93 rina Zardini Riserva (Amarone (Amarone della Valpolicella); $45. This ele- sico); $85. Campo Inferi Riserva Amarone della Valpolicella Classico); $90. Here’s a gant and expressive Amarone offers beautifully opens with very sweet and beautiful tones of red Riserva expression of Amarone that shows beauti- rich aromas of blackberry pie, Indian spice, bar- fruit candy, raspberry jam, nutmeg and cinna- ful intensity and velvety softness in the mouth. becue smoke and dried cassis. The mouthfeel is mon. It offers more rich sweet fruit flavors in the The wine is redolent of Indian spice, dark choco- rich and enduring and the wine offers a much mouth and would pair perfectly with honey late, mature blackberry and toasted almond. Pair longer finish than most. Imported by Dalla Terra baked ham with cloves. Imported by ID Bever- it with succulent steak or aged cheese. Imported Winery Direct. —M.L. age Group. —M.L. by Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. Tenuta Sant’Antonio 2005 Sele- Brunelli 2004 Campo del Tìtari Ris- Marion 2004 Amarone della 93 zone Antonio Castagnedi 93 erva (Amarone della Valpolicella 93 Valpolicella; $70. Marion makes some (Amarone della Valpolicella); $45. This Classico); $NA. Here is a gorgeous Riserva of the best Amarone on sale today and this stand- impressive Amarone shows aromatic intensity Amarone from the excellent 2004 vintage that out expression from the stellar 2004 vintage and elegance that is expressed as black mineral, shows massive richness, density and intensity. proves the point. The wine is thick, deliciously jammy cherry fruit, Indian spice, barbecue The wine is lush and opulent with sweet flavors succulent and redolent of mature black fruit, smoke and cola. It’s a thick, delicious wine with of jammy fruit, oak spice, leather and tobacco. spice, leather, chocolate and pipe tobacco. excellent extract and consistency that can match Imported by International Cellars. —M.L. Imported by Omniwines Distribution. —M.L. grilled meat or aged cheese. Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. Brunelli 2004 Campo Inferi Riserva Marion 2006 Amarone della 93 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- 93 Valpolicella; $70. Big, bold and lus- Valentina Cubi 2004 Morar sico); $NA. This is a beautiful Riserva expres- cious, this beautiful Amarone shows bright fruit 93 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- sion of Amarone with loads of black fruit, tones backed by sophisticated spice aromas with sico); $NA. Morar is a beautifully oak-aged barbecue, mesquite, soy sauce, leather and dark leather, tobacco and moist earth. The wine is Amarone that boasts shadings of vanilla, choco- chocolate. It shows a rich, smooth texture with thick, densely textured and would pair with roast late, mature fruit, pipe tobacco, molasses and impressive staying power and personality. pork and fennel. Imported by Omniwines Distri- leather. It’s a generous and complex bouquet that Imported by International Cellars. —M.L. bution. —M.L. is made to linger even longer on your senses thanks to the natural intensity and richness of the Cesari 2003 Bosan (Amarone della Masi 2003 Serego Alighieri Vaio wine’s texture. —M.L. 93 Valpolicella); $110. Bosan is a beauti- 93 Armaron (Amarone della Valpoli- ful Amarone with gorgeous intensity and person- cella Classico); $77. Vaio Armaron is a rich Zenato 2005 Amarone della ality. It’s a rich, ripe wine with perfectly and opulent Amarone with oak-driven tones of 93 Valpolicella Classico; $70. This is a integrated aromas of jammy fruit and exotic spice spice, leather and tobacco that stand in pretty beautiful expression of Amarone with jammy fruit followed by pretty mineral and tobacco shadings. contrast against the wine’s fresh berry fruit. The aromas that are surrounded by subtle nuances of It’s also particularly successful in the mouth mouthfeel is dense, velvety and long. Imported exotic spice, mesquite wood, cola and lightly where it shows both depth and persistency. by Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. toasted almond. The wine is soft and chewy with Imported by Opici Wines. —M.L. loads of richness and intensity on the long finish. Nicolis 2004 Ambrosan (Amarone Imported by Winebow. —M.L. Corte Sant’ Alda 2006 Amarone 93 della Valpolicella Classico); $80. 93 della Valpolicella; $NA. Corte San- Ambrosan takes Amarone intensity to the next Cà La Bionda 2005 Vigneti di t’Alda presents an impressive Amarone in 2006 level. The wine is plump, rich and loaded with 92 Ravazzól (Amarone della Valpoli-

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 cella Classico); $50. Modern and very enticing sico); $NA. Very elegant and refined, this vine- Masi 2004 Riserva di Costasera aromas of red berry fruit, vanilla, chocolate and yard-designate Amarone presents focused and 92 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- dried tobacco leaves emerge in this beautifully chiseled aromas of black stone, mature cherry, sico); $58. This Riserva Amarone shows thick made Amarone. Oak shadings come through on blackberry and loads of exotic spice. There’s also density and penetrating aromas of ripe cherry, the palate with soft, supple tannins. Imported by a distinct hint of dried herb and the wine’s overall blackberry, leather, spice, cola and cedar wood. Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —M.L. complexity is apparent in the mouth where it also The wine is smooth and velvety with sweet and shows soft, silky tannins. —M.L. succulent berry flavors on the long fade. Cà La Bionda 2006 Vigneti di Imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. 92 Ravazzól (Amarone della Valpoli- David Sterza 2005 Amarone della cella Classico); $50. Masi 2003 Campolongo di Torbe This impressive vineyard- 92 Valpolicella Classico; $28. David designate Amarone makes a great first impression (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- Sterza is a producer to watch. His impressive 92 thanks to its sweet aromas of cherry, vanilla and sico); $155. Because Masi releases its Campo- Amarone show consistency and Valpolicella typic- chocolate fudge. It makes a great second and longo di Torbe cru expression of Amarone many ity vintage after vintage. This expression is redo- third impression, too, thanks to the polished and years later than the competition, the wine has lent of spice, cola, mature fruit and loads of clean, round nature of the mouthfeel. Imported by had time to develop its tertiary aromas of sweet smooth black berry fruit. Imported by The Italian Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —M.L. spice, polished stone, licorice, rum cake and can- Wine Trader. —M.L. died fruit. Overall, it’s hugely intense and persist- Cantina Sociale della Valpantena ent on the finish. Imported by Folio Fine Wine Domìni Veneti 2004 Vigneti di 2007 Amarone della Valpolicella; Partners. —M.L. 92 Jago (Amarone della Valpolicella $30. This cooperative winery offers good quality 92 at bargain prices. Here’s a rich Amarone with Classico); $NA. Luscious, ripe and opulent, this Monte dall’Ora 2004 Stropa lively chocolate, black cherry, vanilla and spice is a gorgeous Amarone from the Classico zone 92 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- components. The sweet, penetrating bouquet is with thick aromatic layers of mature cherry, sico); $145. This vintage of Amarone Strops further enhanced by light shadings of steak sauce exotic spice, polished mineral, plum and prune. shows excellent balance and harmony with gener- and cola. Imported by Omniwines Distribution. There’s excellent density, succulence and texture ous tones of black fruit, plum, prune, leather and Editors’ Choice. —M.L. here; the wine would pair with spicy marinated barbecue sauce. The mouthfeel is full and gener- pork or beef. —M.L. ous with a bright, supple fruit finish. Imported by Cecilia Beretta 2005 Terre di Cari- Louis Dressner Selections. —M.L. 92 ano (Amarone della Valpolicella Giuseppe Campagnola 2005 Cate- Classico); $55. The wine is luscious, rich and 92 rina Zardini (Amarone della Nicolis 2004 Amarone della Valpo- intense, with smooth aromas of cherry cola, ripe Valpolicella Classico); $60. Some 18 months 92 licella Classico; $60. Purity and inten- blackberry, black stone, cinnamon, clove and nut- of aging in new oak have left their mark on this sity are two words that best describe this wine’s meg. It feels silky and dense with soft tannins: dark, sophisticated and elegant Amarone. This is generous bouquet. As you focus in on the small There’s also a bright spot of exotic spice at the a beautiful wine with aromas of dark berry, aromatic details here, you will notice subtle tones very end. Imported by Casa Bruno. —M.L. chocolate, cola, mesquite and exotic spice. It of smoke, jammy fruit, black mineral and cola. shows soft, velvety richness on the long finish. The wine feels rich and ripe, with a long, succu- Cesari 2006 Amarone della Valpo- Imported by Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. lent mouthfeel. Imported by Vignaioli. —M.L. 92 licella Classico; $50. This is a luscious, dark and delicious Amarone with really fun aro- Le Salette 2005 Amarone della Pasqua 2003 Famiglia Pasqua Ris- mas of cinnamon and Christmas spice beyond erva (Amarone della Valpolicella); Valpolicella Classico; $67. Le 92 more obvious tones of ripe fruit, prune and plum. 92 $90. This is a massive wine on all levels, from the Salette’s wines always show a beautiful balance It shows lovely, rich density in the mouth as well. heavy black bottle and heavy wax seal, to the between bright fruit integrity and spicy, oak- Imported by Opici Wines. —M.L. enormous richness and intensity of the liquid related renderings. This vintage is no exception. inside. Despite its heft and brawn, the wine also You’ll recognize aromas of black cherry, cola, nut- Corte Campagnola 2006 Gli Archi shows an elegant side thanks to a careful evolu- 92 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- meg and spicy ginger on the close. Imported by tion over the years that has added tones of sico); $NA. Gli Archi is a tempered and elegant Vias Imports. —M.L. licorice and cola to the natural base of ripe fruit. Amarone that delivers polished aromas of spice, Imported by OWS. Cellar Selection. —M.L. black fruit, cola, clove and cinnamon. The Le Salette 2006 Amarone della mouthfeel is incredibly smooth, silky and velvety: 92 Valpolicella Classico; $50. A smooth Pietro Zardini 2005 Amarone della Pair this wine with veal rolled with cheese and and elegant wine from one of Valpolicella’s best 92 Valpolicella; $NA. Ripe with power fresh sage. Imported by Monarchia Matt Interna- producers. The craftsmanship and expertise here and personality, this pretty Amarone reflects local tional. —M.L. really comes through, especially in the wine’s nat- tradition and territory. Bright aromas of wild ural balance and sophistication. Aromas include berry and red apple are followed by fuller Corteforte 2004 Vigneti di Osan black cherry, cola, cedar and spice. Imported by nuances of spice, chocolate and tobacco. The 92 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- Vias Imports. —M.L. wine feels rich and satisfying thanks to its natural

WineMag.com | 3 1 BUYING I GUIDE density and concentration. Imported by Jao Wine palate with soft tannins and a very polished loads of jammy fruit followed by toasted nut, Imports. —M.L. mouthfeel. Imported by Panebianco. —M.L. leather and moist pipe tobacco. Imported by Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. Roccolo Grassi 2006 Amarone Villa Erbice 2004 Vigneto 92 della Valpolicella; $90. Elegant and 92 Tremenel (Amarone della Valpoli- Begali 2006 Amarone della Valpo- powerful, this beautiful wine shows many of the cella); $65. Beautifully soft and richly textured, 91 licella Classico; $45. Lorenzo Begali’s best qualities of Amarone tradition. It boasts a this dark Amarone makes a bold, modern state- base Amarone delivers warm spice notes, mature thick and luscious mouthfeel with flavorful ment. The intensity and opulence are divine and fruit and a touch of smoked jerky or bresaola. It’s accents of red cherry, sweet spice, tobacco and the wine moves forward with rich flavors of black an earthy, rich wine with generous density and polished black stone. Imported by Artisan Wines, cherry, cassis, chocolate and exotic spice. loads of lingering clove and pepper on the close. Inc. —M.L. Imported by Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. Imported by Siema LLC. —M.L.

San Rustico 2005 Amarone della Zymè 2004 Amarone della Valpoli- Begali 2005 Amarone della Valpo- 92 Valpolicella Classico; $NA. This is a 92 cella Classico; $NA. This is a lovely 91 licella Classico; $45. Aged in large very beautiful and compelling expression of Amarone with loads of intensity and personality oak casks for up to three years, Begali is an estate Amarone that successfully weighs elegance that runs straight through the thick and succu- that carefully follows Valpolicella tradition. against power. Harmonious aromas of mature lent character of its fruit. Valpolicella speaks Although the wine speaks highly of its territory, it fruit and spice are backed by thick density and loudly here and you will recognize aromas of cola, also delivers a deliciously modern, bright and suc- long persistency. Imported by John Given Wines. earth, blue flower and ripe fruit. Soft tannins and culent approach. Imported by Vignaioli. —M.L. —M.L. a velvety texture help fuel the wine’s long finish. —M.L. Bonazzi Dario e Fabio 2004 Sartori 2004 Corte Brà (Amarone Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- Allegrini 2005 Amarone della 91 della Valpolicella Classico); $52. sico; $NA. Here’s a meaty, savory wine with 92 Valpolicella Classico; $75. Aged 18 Corte Brà is a layered and sophisticated 91 loads of ripe fruit, plum and prune followed by months in oak, this plump, generous Amarone Amarone with deep layers of black cherry, spice, moist earth and smoked ham. The wine has pol- opens with a mixed bouquet of red fruit, black- leather, tobacco, steak sauce and polished black ished, almost squeaky tannins and a rich mouth- berry, cinnamon, molasses and toasted almond. It stone. It offers impressive intensity followed by a feel. —M.L. tastes smooth and ripe with a sophisticated, but rich, velvety mouthfeel. Imported by Banfi Vint- slight sweet mouthfeel. Imported by Winebow. ners. —M.L. Brunelli 2007 Amarone della —M.L. 91 Valpolicella Classico; $46. There’s a Speri 2005 Vigneto Monte San- Antolini 2006 Morópio (Amarone very nice, succulent quality to this wine that is t’Urbano (Amarone della Valpoli- 92 della Valpolicella Classico); $NA. enhanced by smooth cherry flavors, sweet spice, cella Classico); $90. Rich, opulent and ripe 91 chocolate, leather, tobacco and barbecue sauce. It Antolini is an Amarone producer to watch. This with black cherry and chocolate aromas, this would pair well with boiled beef and mint chut- clean and elegant expression shows power and beautiful Amarone shows the best of Valpolicella determination that is skillfully played off femi- ney. Imported by ID Beverage Group. —M.L. winemaking tradition. The wine is smooth, dense nine aromas of wild raspberry and sweet spice. Castellani Michele & Figli 2005 and bold on the palate with lingering flavors of The wine is full and generous on the palate with a Colle Cristi Ca’ del Pipa (Amarone black spice and tobacco. Imported by Empson long, berry-driven finish. Imported by Terra 91 della Valpolicella Classico); $50. (USA) Ltd. —M.L. Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. There is a ripe, jammy element to this dark, concentrated Valentina Cubi 2005 Morar Antolini 2006 Ca’ Coato (Amarone Amarone but beyond that, this wine offers huge 92 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- 91 della Valpolicella Classico); $NA. aromatic intensity and loads of personality. It is sico); $NA. Here’s a dense and modern inter- Ca’ Coato opens with a very inviting bouquet of redolent of black spice and mature blackberry, pretation of Amarone that scores high in terms of sweet spice, vanilla, nutmeg and dried ginger fol- and the mouthfeel is rich, chewy and long-lasting. pleasure and personality. Ripe black fruit and lowed by luscious wild berry and cherry. The 17% Imported by Bedford International. —M.L. loads of exotic spice with chocolate come forth on alcohol is high, but integrated, and although the the bouquet; the wine is very soft and rich on the wine is powerful and determined, it won’t burn Castellani Michele & Figli 2005 close. —M.L. your palate if paired with a hearty meat dish. 91 Cinque Stelle Ca’ del Pipa Imported by Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico); Venturini Massimino 2005 Campo- $95. Ripe and succulent expression, with deep 92 masua (Amarone della Valpoli- Arduini 2006 Amarone della tones of blackberry, exotic spice, leather, moist cella Classico); $60. Campomasua is a very 91 Valpolicella Classico; $55. This is a tobacco and Spanish cedar. There’s also a smoky, beautiful expression of Amarone with enormous ripe, plush expression of Amarone (made with a barbecue note at the back; the wine is thick, richness and intensity. The wine is redolent of traditional blend of local grapes before being air- sweet and luscious in the mouth. Imported by black fruit and spice and it follows through to the dried for extra power and intensity) that delivers Bedford International. —M.L.

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 Castellani Michele & Figli 2006 and crushed mineral. Imported by Banville & on the wine’s slight sweet finish. Imported by Vic- 91 Cinque Stelle Ca’ del Pipa Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. toire Imports. —M.L. (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico); $95. A distinctly sweet, or chewy element distin- Gamba 2005 Campedel (Amarone Novaia 2005 Corte Vaona guishes this Amarone and carries forth aromati- 91 della Valpolicella Classico); $60. 91 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- cally as Christmas spice, jammy fruit and mature Campedel is a smokey and sophisticated sico); $45. Plush, ripe, round and very intense, blackberry. There is complexity as well thanks to Amarone from Gamba that opens with saturated Corte Vaona is a dense, modern Amarone that is the pretty background shadings of clove, tones of black cherry, leather, pipe tobacco and packed tight with spice, blackberry, chocolate, mesquite and tobacco. Imported by Bedford dark chocolate. It’s a fine, wood-aged expression leather and tobacco. It shows impressive softness International. —M.L. that shows plushness and richness in the mouth. and concentration on the close. Imported by Imported by Giacopuzzi Agency. —M.L. North Berkeley Imports. —M.L. Corte San Benedetto 2004 91 Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- Genio del Pago 2006 Tirinto Novaia 2005 Le Balze Riserva sico; $NA. Big, lively and very intense, this pow- 91 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- 91 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- erful Amarone opens with a blast of blackberry, sico); $60. This is a really nice Amarone that sico); $NA. Thick black cherry, ripe raspberry, spice, vanilla, chocolate, leather and tobacco aro- opens with sweet notes of spice and black fruit Indian spice, toasted almond, molasses, Spanish mas. It shows sticky, extracted concentration in that make a beautiful introduction to the wine’s cedar and sweet vanilla open the nose of this the mouth and ripe, succulent flavors of jammy plump concentration and overall intensity. It’s a beautiful Riserva Amarone. It’s a smooth, rich fruit and cherry liqueur. It’s a huge wine from all modern, soft interpretation with loads of fruit, wine with loads of mature berry intensity on the points of view. —M.L. cola and tobacco on the close. Imported by North close. Imported by North Berkeley Imports. — M.L. Shore Imports. —M.L. Corteforte 2003 Terre di San Zeno (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- 91 Marchesi Fumanelli 2004 Santi 2006 Proemio (Amarone sico); $55. della Valpolicella); $70. Amarone Terre di San Zeno shows Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- 91 Amarone impressive elegance and beautiful integration of 91 Proemio shows mature fruit aromas of black sico); $86. Aged in French oak for 30 months, its fruit, mineral and oak-related aromas. This is a cherry and blackberry jam backed by elegant this bright Amarone shows good integration precise and focused wine with shadings of tones of clove, pepper, cola and cedar wood. The between ripe fruit and spice aromas. The wine is graphite and slate behind more opulent tones of wine represents a smooth, clean and traditional smooth and velvety on the close and would pair cherry, blackberry, plum, cinnamon, clove, style that would pair with grilled steak or roast with lamb stew and potatoes. Imported by The mesquite and cedar wood. It’s incredibly long pork. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Sorting Table. —M.L. lasting and powerful on the finish. —M.L. Ltd. —M.L. *** Monte dall’Ora 2006 Amarone Corteforte 2003 Vigneti di Osan Stefano Accordini 2005 Acinatico della Valpolicella Classico; $77. (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- 91 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- 91 This is a clean, polished and rich wine that deliv- 91 sico); $70. Amarone Vigneti di Osan opens with sico); $40. Amarone Acinatico is a thick and sweet aromas of mature fruit, vanilla, cinnamon ers pristine aromas of black cherry, leather, cedar, syrupy wine with mature berry nuances followed and ground ginger followed by more austere mesquite, ground pepper and moist tobacco. Pair by loads of sweet spice, toasted almond and cinna- tones of leather, cigar box and Spanish cedar. The this wine with a hearty meat dish such as lamb mon stick. The wine imparts a heavy, succulent wine is soft and smooth with enormous richness chops or meatloaf. Imported by Louis Dressner feel and would make a great companion to winter on the close. —M.L. Selections. —M.L. dishes such as game or beef stew. Imported by Omniwines Distribution. —M.L. Domìni Veneti 2007 Amarone Monte dall’Ora 2005 Amarone 91 della Valpolicella Classico; $NA. 91 della Valpolicella Classico; $120. Tedeschi 2006 Amarone della There’s a smooth, elegant quality to this Amarone This is a focused, pristine Amarone that ends with 91 Valpolicella Classico; $54. Starts off that translates as black stone, exotic spice, cola firm tannins and a velvety mouthfeel. It is redo- with clean integration and elegant aromas of ripe and soft black fruit. The wine is also very plush lent of red cherry, coffee, road pavement, leather cherry, forest berry, vanilla bean, clove and gin- and rich on the close with firm, but velvety tan- and licorice. You could imagine a successful pair- ger. It continues its impressive performance with nins. —M.L. ing with soft osso buco cooked on the bone. smooth tannins and a velvety texture. Imported Imported by Louis Dressner Selections. —M.L. by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.L. Farina 2003 Monte Fante Riserva 91 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- Monte del Frá 2003 Scarnocchio Tedeschi 2005 Amarone della sico); $85. The hot vintage and careful oak 91 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- 91 Valpolicella Classico; $54. Tedeschi’s aging have helped shape this plump, ripe, jammy sico); $60. Scarnocchio is a savory, spicy base Amarone is a beautiful wine with integrated and sophisticated Amarone. The wine’s aromatic Amarone with aromas of black pepper, cured flavors of spice and dark fruit that are evenly intensity is carried forth by bright aromas of meat, black fruit and soft leather. Wood-driven spread over its smooth, supple mouthfeel. Soft blackberry, clove, leather, crushed peppercorn flavors of vanilla, cigar box and cinnamon appear tannins and rich density make this wine a good

WineMag.com | 3 3 BUYING I GUIDE choice for steak with creamy mushroom sauce. impressively long finish. Imported by Bonhomie beer. There’s a touch of cherry liqueur on the Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.L. Wine Imports. —M.L. close with lingering spice and smoke. —M.L.

Tenuta i Saltari 2003 Le Vigne di Aldegheri 2001 Amarone della Brigaldara 2006 Amarone della 91 Turano (Amarone della Valpoli- 90 Valpolicella Classico; $50. Aldegheri 90 Valpolicella Classico; $50. Elegant cella); $67. This Amarone from the hot 2003 released this smooth Amarone almost one decade and tight with a bright cherry bouquet, this well- vintage delivers wonderful intensity and personal- after the harvest. The focus here is on elegance integrated Amarone shows nice balance between ity. It’s a bold, thick and meaty wine with aromas and complexity; aromatic highlights include pol- its ripe fruit flavors and its natural acidity. In fact, of mature blackberry, chocolate, spice and ished stone, candied fruit and smoky overtones of this is a food-friendly option that would pair with leather. Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.L. mesquite, cedar and barbecue sauce. Succulent, spicy pork or beef and broccoli. Imported by chewy fruit characterizes the mouthfeel. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. Tommasi 2006 Ca’ Florian Imported by Testa Wines of the World. —M.L. 91 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- Brigaldara 2005 Case Vecie sico); $90. Tommasi’s Ca’ Florian Amarone Allegrini 2006 Amarone della 90 (Amarone della Valpolicella); $75. delivers loads of ripe, jammy fruit expressed as 90 Valpolicella Classico; $75. Here’s a Although this hearty Amarone delivers a dried plum, prune and candied berry. The wine plush, rich Amarone that imparts raw notes of whopping 17% alcohol, the heat and power is well feels rich and dense on the palate and imparts a grape, cherry, cassis and blackberry. The nose is integrated within the wine’s juicy berry fiber and touch of sweetness that makes for a perfect sup- much more complex with spice, leather, barbe- spicy aromas of clove and pepper. Pair this wine port to the softness of the tannins. Imported by cue, cured meat and toasted nut. The mouthfeel with thick pasta and creamy blue cheese sauce. Rolar. —M.L. is finely textured and long. Imported by Imported by Vinifera Imports. —M.L. Winebow. —M.L. Tommasi 2006 Amarone della Brunelli 2006 Amarone della Arduini 2005 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico; $75. Packaged Valpolicella Classico; $45. With care- 91 Valpolicella Classico; $NA. Corvina, 90 in a heavy but handsome bottle, this well- 90 ful oak aging, this bright Amarone delivers loads of Rondinella, Corvinone and Oseleta grapes make extracted Amarone ushers forth massive concen- fruit and spice intensity. There’s depth and dimen- up the formula for this rich and very velvety tration and power. Redolent of black cherry, cola, sion to the mouthfeel thanks to rich padding of Amarone. There’s a very nice, smooth quality to steak sauce and teriyaki, this is a natural choice mature fruit, soft tannins and thick extract. this wine that is supported by bright berry and for smoked meat or barbecued prime rib. It Imported by International Cellars. —M.L. spice aromas. Imported by Terra Verus Trading shows sweet, chewy tannins on the close. Co. LP. —M.L. Imported by Rolar. —M.L. CampoReale 2005 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico; $NA. Bertani 2006 Villa Arvedi 90 This is a Villa Erbice 2005 Vigneto (Amarone della Valpolicella Val- brawny, masculine expression of Amarone with a Tremenel (Amarone della Valpoli- 90 thick and hearty mouthfeel that matches the nat- 91 pantena); $40. Villa Arvedi is an excellent start- cella); $65. Dark, spicy tones of clove, cured ural intensity of the black fruit and exotic spice up Amarone for those who love this distinctive meat, teriyaki sauce and black pepper open the Italian wine without the exaggerated brawn and aromas that characterize the nose. Sweet, dense nose of this richly-textured Amarone. It’s an aus- bulk it sometimes shows. This expression delivers fruit flavors would make a great match to sharp, tere, masculine expression with loads of lingering elegant intensity that comes forth as cassis syrup, aged cheese. —M.L. spice and smoke on the close. Imported by Mas- blackberry, spice, leather and smoked redwood. CampoReale 2006 Amarone della ciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L. 90 Valpolicella Classico; $NA. This Villa Monteleone 2005 Amarone Bolla 2006 Le Origini (Amarone dense and extracted Amarone offers jammy fruit 91 della Valpolicella Classico); $55. 90 della Valpolicella Classico); $70. Le aromas of blackberry and ripe cherry, followed This classy Amarone spends 36 months in French Origini Amarone offers light and elegant touches by suede, spice and smoked mesquite. The oak to shape its compelling aromas of barbecue of cherry, blackberry, prune, plum and mature mouthfeel is chewy and rich, making this a good spice and soy sauce. There are background tones fruit. This expression is not overripe or jammy, pairing partner to hearty winter cuisine. —M.L. of cured meat, ripe berry and Indian spice that setting it apart. In fact, although there are big help color a long-lasting, soft and velvety mouth- fruit flavors in the mouth, they are framed nicely Cantina di Soave 2004 Rocca feel. Imported by Domenico Selections. —M.L. by polished mineral and exotic spice. Imported 90 Sveva (Amarone della Valpoli- by Banfi Vintners. —M.L. cella); $NA. Ripe and smoky aromas of mature Viviani 2004 Casa dei Bepi fruit, jammy cherry or blackberry and exotic spice 91 (Amarone della Valpolicella); $95. Bonazzi 2004 Amarone della characterize the intense bouquet of this powerful Thick oak and spice aromas emerge from the 90 Valpolicella Classico; $NA. Bonazzi’s Amarone. The wine is succulent, sweet and bouquet, slowly revealing a solid base of cherry nicely aged 2004 Amarone offers an elegant and chewy in the mouth with impressive persistency fruit, blackberry and prune. This is a rich and intense experience with well-toned aromas of on the finish. It would make a great pairing part- very extracted, dark and chewy wine with an black cherry, blueberry pie, mesquite and root ner to pork or lamb. —M.L.

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 Cantina di Soave 2006 Rocca aromas of mature cherry, raspberry jam, spice, long, succulent finish. Imported by Domaine 90 Sveva (Amarone della Valpoli- cinnamon and barbecue smoke. —M.L. Select Wine Estates. —M.L. cella); $60. This is an elegant and well-crafted Amarone that reveals itself slowly in the glass Degani 2007 La Rosta (Amarone Giuseppe Lonardi 2006 Amarone with aromas of spice, mature fruit and greenish 90 della Valpolicella Classico); $56. 90 della Valpolicella Classico; $NA. nuances of forest floor and bramble. You’ll taste This thick, meaty Amarone opens with distinct Sweet spice and brambly notes of forest floor and mature blackberry and cherry on the finish fol- notes of root beer and teriyaki backed by black white mushroom open the nose of this interesting lowed by spicy notes of black pepper and clove. fruit and blueberry tart. The wine is smooth and Amarone. You’ll appreciate the savory notes that Imported by MW Imports. —M.L. rich with polished tannins and a long fruit-driven set this wine apart from many of the jammy, over- fade. Imported by Michael R. Downey Selec- sweet expressions on the market today. Imported Cantina Sociale della Valpantena tions. —M.L. by Small Vineyards LLC. —M.L. 90 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella; $40. Here’s a plush and rich Amarone with Domìni Veneti 2005 Amarone Le Bertarole 2003 Podere Le notes of chocolate, wild berry, blackberry jam, 90 della Valpolicella Classico; $NA. 90 Marognole (Amarone della Valpo- exotic spice, leather and tobacco. It feels gener- Here’s a hearty, dark and inky expression of licella Classico); $45. Aged in traditional oak ous and soft in the mouth with supple tannins Amarone that opens with pretty aromas of casks, this bright Amarone shows great balance and thick density. Imported by Omniwines Dis- mature fruit, polished black stone and loads of between its natural spice and ripe fruit compo- tribution. —M.L. Indian spice. There’s a slightly sweet or soft point nents. It feels compact and streamlined with on the close that is followed by dense flavors of loads of berry fruit on the long close. Imported Cantine Lenotti di Lenotti 2005 Di mature black fruit. —M.L. by Vinarium Inc. —M.L. Carlo (Amarone della Valpolicella 90 Le Bertarole 2005 Podere Le Classico); $80. Amarone Di Carlo adds a touch Fabiano 2006 Amarone della Marognole (Amarone della Valpo- of cinnamon, ginger and ground clove to a bou- Valpolicella Classico; $50. This is an 90 90 licella Classico); $NA. There’s a nice, stream- quet that is already redolent of vanilla and sweet expressive and intense Amarone with bright lined feel to this Amarone that distinguishes it cherry fruit. This is not a meaty or overextracted tones of black cherry, candied fruit, exotic spice, from the otherwise bulky and overripe wines of expression; in fact, it feels compact and bright on leather and tobacco. It washes over the palate this category. It moves over the palate with crisp- the close. Imported by BelVino LLC. —M.L. with smooth and soft fruit intensity. The long ness and determined flavors of blackberry, cassis fade offers lingering notes of clove and pepper- and molasses. Imported by Vinarium Inc. —M.L. Corte Figaretto 2006 Brolo del corn. Imported by Admiral Imports. —M.L. Figaretto (Amarone della Valpoli- 90 Marchesi Fumanelli 2003 Octavius cella Valpantena); $55. Farina 2006 Amarone della Valpo- This Amarone opens Riserva (Amarone della Valpoli- with very mature and smoky aromas of bresaola, licella Classico; $50. The standout 90 90 cella Classico); $150. The Octavius Riserva dried blackberry and currants. It imparts sweet, feature of this handsome Amarone is the softness shows the heat of the 2003 vintage in its powerful chewy tones in the mouth and offers loads of bar- of its texture and smoothness of its supple finish. aromas of cherry liqueur, blackberry jelly and becue spice, cedar and mesquite. This wine Along the way, however, you will be treated to exotic spice. There’s a sweet note in the mouth would make an obvious pairing partner to meat sweet red-fruit aromas of cassis and blackberry backed by chocolate, tobacco and spice. cooked on a charcoal grill. Imported by Quigley with loads of exotic spice. Imported by Banville & Imported by The Sorting Table. —M.L. Fine Wines. —M.L. Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. Marchesi Fumanelli 2005 Corte Rugolin 2004 Monte Danieli Fratta Pasini 2004 Amarone della 90 Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- 90 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- 90 Valpolicella Classico; $85. Here’s a sico; $86. Notes of chocolate powder and carob sico); $70. Here’s a rich, sumptuous expression very well-shaped and generous wine with layers are followed by aromas of crushed mineral, of Amarone with bright aromas of black cherry, of ripe berry, smoke and spice that peel off slowly cherry, plum, prune and blackberry jam. This is chocolate fudge, leather and savory cured meat. as the bouquet evolves in the glass. There’s a an elegant Amarone with a very fine and focused The wine feels smooth and dense with long- nice, polished mineral note as well; the wine personality. The tannins are drying and polished lasting cherry flavors. Imported by Angelini delivers the thickness and overall intensity that is and help offset the chewy succulence of the Wine. —M.L. characteristic of Amarone. Imported by Domaine wine’s naturally ripe fruit. Imported by The Sort- Select Wine Estates. —M.L. ing Table. —M.L. Corteforte 2003 XX Anni in Due 90 Secoli (Amarone della Valpolicella Fratta Pasini 2003 Riserva Masi 2006 Costasera (Amarone Classico); $70. With tremendous strength and 90 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- 90 della Valpolicella Classico); $60. determination, it's apparent that the heat and sico); $85. This Riserva Amarone opens with Amarone Costasera is the perfect choice for those power of the 2003 vintage has shaped this mascu- sweet intensity and bold aromas of ripe berry, who are not already familiar with this unique cat- line interpretation of Amarone. The wine opens cured meat, barbecue smoke and dark Indian egory of Italian wine. The wine is extremely bal- with a dark ruby-garnet color and imparts strong spice. It tastes rich and velvety and delivers a very anced and well integrated with elegant tones of

WineMag.com | 3 5 BUYING I GUIDE ripe berry fruit and spice. It also promises to pair chocolate and moist pipe tobacco. Imported by this is a plush and modern Amarone with deep with beef, lamb or pork. Imported by Folio Fine Riondo USA. —M.L. layers of spice, ripe fruit, cola, tobacco, leather Wine Partners. —M.L. and mesquite. It shows, soft, sweet intensity and Riondo 2005 Amarone della loads of cherry on the close. Imported by Haw Monte dall’Ora 2003 Stropa 90 Valpolicella; $NA. A plump and gen- River Wine Man. —M.L. 90 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- erous Amarone that will appeal to those who like sico); $200. From the hot 2003 vinatge, this is a big, bold wines. In the mouth, it is accented by Tezza 2004 Amarone della Valpoli- bold, chewy expression of Amarone with deep sweet berry flavors; there are pretty nuances of 90 cella Valpantena; $50. This Amarone layers of mature fruit and cherry. It delivers plush spice, cola, mesquite wood and cedar. Imported opens with an oak-driven bouquet of sweet spice, background notes of cinnamon, leather, choco- by Riondo USA. —M.L. vanilla, toasted almond and cigar box. There’s late and smoked cedar wood as well. Imported by enough bright fruit, such as plum and cassis, to Louis Dressner Selections. —M.L. Roncolato 2006 Amarone della promise a good aging future ahead for this bottle. 90 Valpolicella; $NA. A huge jump for- Imported by Haw River Wine Man. —M.L. Montecariano 2004 Amarone ward in quality compared to the last release of 90 della Valpolicella Classico; $60. Yes, this wine, here is a polished, clean and elegant Tinazzi 2006 La Bastia Ca’ de’ Roc- this is a big, bulky wine, but it also shows a partic- wine that shows signs of tradition and territory. It 90 chi (Amarone della Valpolicella); ularly elegant edge thanks to its polished aromas is redolent of black cherry, spice, slate roof and $NA. Here’s a modern Amarone that will appeal of black stone, exotic spice, chocolate fudge and roasted nut. —M.L. to those who like bold, chewy and slightly sweet mature berry fruit. It feels velvety, smooth and red wines. Aromas include cinnamon, nutmeg, soft on the long close. Imported by Wooden Santa Sofia 2005 Amarone della candied fruit and raspberry jam. This would be a Ships. —M.L. 90 Valpolicella Classico; $69. Santa good wine to pair with aged cheeses. Imported by Sofia is a stellar producer with landmark cellars Terranova Imports. —M.L. Montezovo 2004 Amarone della that stand as a proud ambassador for Valpolicella 90 Valpolicella; $40. Pretty and balanced winemaking tradition. This wine is redolent of Tommaso Bussola 2005 Amarone fruit nuances speak volumes about the quality of spice, smoked meat, rum cake, leather and loads 90 della Valpolicella Classico; $NA. this vintage. Montezovo’s 2004 Amarone shows of chewy black fruit and prune. Imported by There is slight sweetness or chewiness and the fin- an excellent exchange between its cherry, spice Laird & Company. —M.L. ish is marked by thick cherry and blackberry fla- and black mineral characteristics. Imported by vors. A huge jump forward compared to recent Eurobiz Inc. . —M.L. Sartori 2005 Amarone della Valpo- vintages, this meaty Amarone would make a per- 90 licella; $40. Aged three years in large fect partner to hearty winter foods like game meat Montezovo 2006 Amarone della oak casks, this bright Amarone shows a traditional or beef stew. Imported by Vieux Vins, Inc. —M.L. 90 Valpolicella; $39. Bursting ripe fruit and very food-friendly style. You could pair it aromas of cherry, black currant, cassis, plum and with all kinds of meat dishes thanks to the wine’s Trabucchi d’Illasi 2003 Riserva prunes are backed by fine mineral tones of slate, soft tannins and lively berry and spice flavors. 90 Cent’Anni (Amarone della Valpoli- granite and loads of exotic spice. You’ll taste Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.L. cella); $99. A well-balanced and nicely aged chocolate, cinnamon, sweet fruit and crushed Amarone from the hot 2003 vintage; shows aro- clove: The wine’s extra long finish is powered by Sartori 2006 Amarone della Valpo- mas of mature fruit offset nicely by spice, smooth, silky tannins. Imported by Eurobiz Inc. 90 licella; $40. Classy and elegant, with molasses and toasted nut. It’s a smooth, thick —M.L. tight, polished tannins and bright aromas of red wine with chewy density and a surprising touch of cherry, exotic spice and tobacco. A very food- crisp freshness on the close. Imported by Pasqua 2007 Amarone della friendly wine, this could match dishes from Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L. 90 Valpolicella; $50. Pasqua presents a lasagna to lamb chops. Imported by Banfi Vint- very approachable and less extracted Amarone that ners. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. Vaona 2006 Pegrandi (Amarone offers elegance and smoothness instead of bulk 90 della Valpolicella Classico); $NA. and density. Indeed, this is a food-friendly wine Stefano Accordini 2006 Acinatico Pegrandi is an impressive Amarone that speaks with soft tannins that would work wonders next to 90 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- highly of the territory that shaped it. The wine lamb, beef or pork. Imported by OWS. —M.L. sico); $40. Amarone Acinatico opens with delivers aromas of jammy fruit, cherry, raspberry jammy, ripe fruit aromas and candied fruit fol- and blackberry. But there are also sophisticated Riondo 2005 Trionfo Riserva lowed by cured meat, moist pipe tobacco and toast and spice notes that add brightness and per- 90 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- beef jerky. It’s a big, bold, meaty wine with sweet sonality. Creamy, cheesy risotto would make a sico); $NA. Dark, thick extraction and an inky, spice flavors and loads of plump, dense fruit fla- perfect pairing match. Imported by Premium black appearance characterize this powerful vors and overall richness. Imported by Omni- Brands. —M.L. Amarone Riserva. It’s a chewy, succulent wine wines Distribution. —M.L. that delivers soft tannins and rich flavors of Venturini Massimino 2006 maraschino cherries, blackberry preserves, Tezza 2005 Amarone della Valpoli- 90 Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- Indian spice, ground clove, cinnamon, dark 90 cella; $30. Aged two years in barrique, sico; $50. Venturini offers a lively, sweet-

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 smelling Amarone with bright aromas of black Aldegheri 2004 Amarone della Classico); $53. Here’s a sweet, rich and pulpy cherry, cinnamon, vanilla, sweet barbecue sauce 89 Valpolicella Classico; $55. Long Amarone that offers thick extraction and distinct and clove. It imparts a polished, smooth feel with aging in oak has helped give this bright Amarone aromas of candied fruit, cola, leather, tobacco pretty accents of smoke and spice. Imported by a smoky, spicy feel. There’s plenty of ripe fruit and sweet spice. The wine imparts dense rich- Panebianco. —M.L. here, mostly cherry and blackberry, and the wine ness and a velvety texture that would pair with offers pretty mineral tones on the close. aged pecorino cheese. Imported by Angelini Vigneti Villabella 2005 Amarone Imported by Testa Wines of the World. —M.L. Wine. —M.L. 90 della Valpolicella Classico); $45. This is a more compact and elegant expression Bonazzi 2001 Amarone della Degani 2007 Amarone della Valpo- of Amarone that lets the quality of its ripe fruit 89 Valpolicella Classico; $NA. There’s 89 licella Classico; $48. Degani’s youthful shine through. You’ll recognize tones of cherry a pretty smoky element to this wine that comes base Amarone opens with smoky aromas of exotic and cassis. But there are also balanced mineral, off as cured beef or bresaola backed by graphite spice, leather and cured meat. In the mouth, the almond and spice notes at the back. The mouth- and ground slate. From the faraway 2001 vintage, wine shows loads of luscious, sweet fruit with cin- feel is bright, focused and persistent. Imported the wine boasts elegant tertiary aromas of cola, namon and vanilla highlights. Imported by by Wine Wave. —M.L. black licorice and candied fruit with some sweet- Michael R. Downey Selections. —M.L. ness on the close. Drink now. —M.L. Villa Monteleone 2006 Amarone Farina 2005 Amarone della Valpo- 90 della Valpolicella Classico; $65. Carlo Boscaini 2005 San Giorgio 89 licella Classico; $50. Farina’s sweet- There’s a nice streamlined quality to this 89 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- smelling Amarone spends time in large oak casks Amarone that comes forth as sassy spice, mature sico); $40. Amarone San Giorgio has shown for additional aromas of spice, leather and toasted fruit, leather, moist pipe tobacco and toasted great improvement over the past few vintages walnut. At the core are bright fruit tones of black- almond. In the mouth, it shows freshness and a and this expression is redolent of blackberry, berry, cassis and lingering cherry cola that add thick, but compact feel. Imported by Domenico spice, leather, mature cherry and Spanish cedar. flavorful accents to what is a smooth and silky Selections. —M.L. There’s harmony and elegance here, followed by mouthfeel overall. Imported by Banville & Jones a big, chewy mouthfeel. Imported by Tuscany Wine Merchants. —M.L. Zecchini 2004 Vigneto Calandra di Import. —M.L. 90 Romagnano (Amarone della Gamba 2006 Le Quare (Amarone Valpolicella Valpantena); $NA. This is a Cent’Anni 2005 Amarone della 89 della Valpolicella Classico); $48. very attractive Amarone that offers a smooth, 89 Valpolicella; $NA. Here’s a vibrant This ripe and plump Amarone delivers mature supple mouthfeel accented by bright aromas of and sweet-smelling Amarone with aromas of berry aromas with loads of raspberry, blueberry red cherry, Indian spice, cedar and vanilla bean. Christmas spice, nutmeg, vanilla, chocolate and and cherry. The wine is soft and velvety with very It shows soft tannins with a very polished, clean loads of vibrant berry fruit. There’s a touch of good staying power and density. Imported by fade. —M.L. natural rubber as well and the wine is smooth, Giacopuzzi Agency. —M.L. silky and firm on the close. —M.L. Zeni 2006 Vigne Alte (Amarone Guerrieri Rizzardi 2004 Villa Riz- 90 della Valpolicella Classico); $NA. Corte Giara by Allegrini 2007 89 zardi (Amarone della Valpolicella There’s an elegant, toned quality that shifts focus 89 Amarone della Valpolicella; $55. Classico); $87. Villa Rizzardi offers a tradi- to the purity of its wild berry and dark spice aro- Amarone Corte Giara offers an informal but very tional interpretation of Amarone with a leaner mas. It’s not one of those massive, chewy fruit approachable alternative to more austere and consistency than most and brighter aromas of bombs and that’s ultimately what sets this wine muscular interpretations of the wine. This is a forest berry, white cherry, raspberry and almond. apart. Imported by DS Trading Co. —M.L. smooth, food-friendly blend from Verona with It feels smooth and clean and would pair with bright aromas of cherry, dried cassis and spice. spicy sausage. Imported by Enotec Imports, Inc. Zeni 2007 Amarone della Valpoli- Imported by Winebow. —M.L. —M.L. 90 cella Classico; $NA. Bright berry notes of black cherry and raspberry are followed Corte Lenguin 2006 La Coeta L’Arco 2003 Amarone della Valpo- by cinnamon, clove and dried ginger. It feels 89 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- 89 licella Classico; $90. This is a hearty smooth, silky and offers softly textured tannins. sico); $61. There’s a bold, extracted and meaty and determined wine that is characterized by a Imported by DS Trading Co. —M.L. quality to this wine that also exhibits aromas of sweet vein of raspberry jam, candied fruit, cinna- leather, pipe tobacco, cured meat and jammy mon and Christmas spice. It feels soft and velvety Albino Armani 2004 Amarone blackberry. Oak-driven aromas of spice and wood on the close and would pair with a fragrant meat 89 della Valpolicella; $80. This is an ele- shavings are very evident and the wine will appeal dish such as caramelized onion and sausage with gant, streamlined Amarone with sharp notes of to those who love a big, masculine style. Imported fennel seed. Imported by Terra Verus Trading cherry, blueberry, exotic spice, toasted almond by Franco Wine Imports. —M.L. Co. LP. —M.L. and cola. It’s tight and raw in the mouth with good power and density. Imported by Underdog Corte Rugolin 2005 Crosara de le La Giaretta 2003 I Quadretti Wine Merchants. —M.L. 89 Strìe (Amarone della Valpolicella 89 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas-

WineMag.com | 3 7 BUYING I GUIDE sico); $57. Amarone I Quadretti opens with hol with strong aromas of black cherry, Indian palate with sweet, syrupy persistency. Imported by loads of ripe fruit, strawberry and exotic spice. spice, suede and toasted chestnut. It’s a smooth, Rolar. —M.L. The wine is packed tight with power and intensity rich and finely-textured wine with a long, luscious and the mouthfeel is accented by luscious cherry, finish. Imported by Bacchanal Wines. —M.L. Tommaso Bussola 2005 Vigneto clove, leather, mineral and cola. Imported by The 89 Alto (Amarone della Valpolicella Country Vintner. —M.L. Montresor 2004 Capitel della Classico); $NA. With 17.5% alcohol, this is a 89 Crosara (Amarone della Valpoli- big, brawny Amarone that should be paired with La Giaretta 2006 Amarone della cella Classico); $60. Capitel della Crosara an appropriately dense and wintery meat dish 89 Valpolicella Classico); $40. Here’s a opens with polished berry nuances as well as cin- (like beef or game stew). The vineyard-designate very nice Amarone that moves slowly over the namon, ginger, cola and herb. It’s a lighter, wine is sweet and very succulent with loads of palate imparting aromas of red fruit, plum, cinna- brighter interpretation of Amarone with a crisp, ripe and candied fruit flavors on the chewy, soft mon and clove along the way. Only that bitter clean close. Imported by Bronco Wine Company. finish. Imported by Vieux Vins, Inc. —M.L. touch of acidity on the end is slightly out of place. —M.L. Imported by The Country Vintner. —M.L. Vigneti Villabella 2003 Fracastoro Musella 2006 Amarone della 89 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- Manzini 2005 Amarone della 89 Valpolicella; $37. Here’s a base sico); $59. Slightly on the jammy and overripe 89 Valpolicella Classico; $NA. This clas- Amarone that shows more balance and elegance side, this thickly concentrated Amarone offers deep sic Amarone offers characteristic aromas of ripe than this estate’s Riserva expression. Meaty notes layers of exotic spice, strawberry marmalade, black- berry fruit, spice, leather, mesquite and barbe- of ripe cherry and blackberry jam are matched berry, tobacco and cedar wood. There’s a touch of cue sauce. Pair this luscious wine with rolled pork by lively tones of spice, tobacco and leather. sweetness in the mouth that is backed by smooth, and roasted potatoes or another succulent meat but thick texture. Imported by Wine Wave. —M.L. Imported by Vedi Wines. —M.L. dish that meets the consistency and power of this wine. —M.L. Roncolato 2006 Carnera (Amarone Zecchini 2006 Vigneto Calandra di Romagnano (Amarone della della Valpolicella); $NA. There’s a 89 Monte Faustino 2005 Amarone 89 Valpolicella Valpantena); $NA. This is a fresh, buoyant quality to this Amarone that comes della Valpolicella Classico; $70. masculine and austere Amarone with deep tones 89 across as forest-ripened raspberry and blueberry. This expressive Amarone is characterized by a of blackberry, prune, black chocolate, clove, car- Austere aromas of spice, leather and tobacco fill in distinct mineral tone of slate roof or lead pencil damom and smoky touches of tar and resin. Dry- the background and the wine is dense but not too that really sets it apart. Beyond those drying ing mineral notes appear in the mouth and heavy or thick on the close. —M.L. graphite tones are layers of berry fruit, mesquite, provide for a very pretty contrast against the cherry cola, spice and even a milky feel. It’s a wine’s succulent, sweet fruit flavors. —M.L. Rubinelli Vajol 2006 Amarone smooth, soft and velvety wine that would pair della Valpolicella Classico; $58. with stewed lamb or beef. Imported by Vinifera 89 Bottega 2007 Il Vino degli Dei This is a tame Amarone that delivers intensity but Imports. —M.L. (Amarone della Valpolicella); $NA. not too much heft or density, and that ultimately 88 Distilleria Bottega is one of Italy’s most important Montecariano 2005 Amarone makes this a very food-friendly option. It drinks producers of Grappa that has also recently started 89 della Valpolicella Classico; $100. very well with loads of berry freshness and a soft, making wine such as Prosecco and Amarone. This This opulent Amarone goes over the top with velvety finish. Imported by Magellan Wine is a bright and focused expression with sharp aro- high alcohol and incredibly intense aromas of Imports. —M.L. mas of wild berry, green herb and spice. —M.L. cherry liqueur, white mushroom, exotic spice and A1 steak sauce. Wood flavors of vanilla and toast Tinazzi 2005 La Bastia Ca’ de’ Roc- Ca’ Rugate 2007 Amarone della sit heavy on the palate. Imported by Wooden 89 chi (Amarone della Valpolicella); 88 Valpolicella; $108. Made with fruit Ships. —M.L. $55. Here’s a solid, thickly extracted Amarone from 12-year-old vines, this compact and sharp that opens with sweet aromas of black cherry, Amarone shows brambly aromas of wild berry, Monteci 2005 Amarone della vanilla, chocolate fudge and cinnamon stick. forest floor and herb. There is mature fruit here, 89 Valpolicella Classico; $50. This is a Aging in large oak casks has given this wine a soft, and loads of sweet spice with piquant spice on very pretty Amarone that shows medium inten- supple feel on the close. Imported by Terranova the close. Imported by Ideal Wine and Spirits sity in terms of aromas and elegant tones of ripe Imports. —M.L. Co. Inc. —M.L. fruit and spice. There’s a slight tannic bite on the close and the wine spreads long and consistently Tommasi 2006 Il Sestante Monte Cantina di Negrar 2005 Amarone over the palate. Imported by Bacchanal Wines. 89 Masua (Amarone della Valpoli- 88 della Valpolicella Classico); $NA. —M.L. cella Classico); $80. Amarone Il Sestante from Fruit for this ruby-colored Amarone comes from the Monte Masua vineyard cru delivers loads of an organically-farmed vineyard and shows bright Monteci 2004 Amarone della jammy fruit with plush tones of cherry maraschino, aromas of black cherry, raspberry, prune and plum. 89 Valpolicella Classico; $32. Monteci’s blackberry, spice, leather and moist earth. There’s In fact, the clean quality of the berry nuances on base Amarone delivers better integration of alco- a plush organic feel and the wine glides over the display are what set this wine apart. It is smooth,

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 sweet and sticky on the close. Imported by Bianco backed by jammy fruit aromas and a healthy dose close. Imported by Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Rosso Imports Ltd. —M.L. of spicy oak tones. The intensity is here but the —M.L. integration is slightly off for a wine of this impor- Cantina Sociale della Valpantena tance. Imported by The Country Vintner. —M.L. Mazzi 2005 Castel (Amarone della 88 2006 Torre del Falasco (Amarone 88 Valpolicella Classico); $NA. Castel della Valpolicella); $NA. This hearty Latium di Morini 2005 Campo adheres to Amarone tradition with aromas of red Amarone introduces aromas of cola, candied 88 Leòn (Amarone della Valpolicella); cherry, dried apple skin, exotic spice, cured meat fruit, cured beef and mesquite. It’s very heavy $55. Campo Leòn is a jammy, chewy wine with and leather. The wine sits on the palate with heavy and thick in the mouth with sweet overtones that raw notes of black cherry, Indian spice, cedar density and some sweet flavors but soft tannins are backed by tons of clove, pepper and cinna- wood and melted chocolate. It’s thick, syrupy and and a bright touch of acidity help cap a refreshing mon. Imported by Omniwines Distribution. — it’s hard to imagine a balanced food pairing out- mouthfeel. Imported by A Marc de Grazia selec- M.L. side succulent red meat. Imported by USA Wine tion; various American importers. —M.L. Imports. —M.L. Cantina Sociale della Valpantena Monte del Frá 2005 Tenuta Lena 88 2005 Torre del Falasco (Amarone Latium di Morini 2004 Campo 88 di Mezzo (Amarone della Valpoli- della Valpolicella); $45. This is a thick and 88 Leòn (Amarone della Valpolicella); cella Classico); $50. This is a powerful but not nicely concentrated Amarone with loads of $55. Thick, chewy and succulent, this is a bold, exaggerated style of Amarone that delivers ripe inherent fruit and spice intensity. The wine sits full-bodied red wine with intense aromas of black cherry and blackberry aromas followed by new well on the palate, with a heavy texture, soft tan- fruit and Indian spice box. This wine will appeal leather, cigar box, spice and rum cake. It imparts nins and a long, smoky close. Imported by Omni- to those who enjoy loads of heft, muscle and a very smooth, rich and supple feel. Imported by wines Distribution. —M.L. personality in their Amarone. Imported by Jan Victoire Imports. —M.L. D’Amore Wines. —M.L. Corte Giara by Allegrini 2006 Monte del Frá 2004 Tenuta Lena Amarone della Valpolicella; $55. Le Bertarole 2005 Podere Cariano 88 di Mezzo (Amarone della Valpoli- This is a lean, less formal expression of Amarone (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- 88 88 cella Classico); $50. There’s a distinct note of that seems to focus nicely on freshness and wild sico); $33. Here’s a compact, focused Amarone eucalyptus or dried herb here followed by root berry nuances. Cherry, blackberry, spice, cola, that shows detailed aromas of wild berry, mesquite, beer, red berry fruit, bramble, leather and moist almond and tobacco all come to mind. Imported bramble, cola and Spanish cedar. It’s lean in terms tobacco. The wine is bright and thick on the by Winebow. —M.L. of extraction and intensity, making this wine a good palate thanks to a twofold delivery of freshness pairing partner to white meat or honey-roasted and natural concentration. Imported by Votto Corte San Benedetto 2003 ham. Imported by Vinarium Inc. —M.L. 88 Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- Vines Importing. —M.L. sico; $NA. Corte San Benedetto is a small, family Luciana Cordioli 2007 Amarone Monte del Frá 2006 Tenuta Lena run winery and its 2003 Amarone shows ripe notes della Valpolicella Classico; $50. 88 di Mezzo (Amarone della Valpoli- of black cherry, mesquite, blackberry and soft This is a soft, feminine expression of Amarone 88 cella Classico); $48. vanilla. The oak element is evident here; the wine with tones of cinnamon, rum cake and Christmas Tenuta Lena di Mezzo is soft and supple on the close. —M.L. spice followed by simple berry fruit. Liquid delivers juicy, thick aromas of sweet fruit and vanilla, molasses and caramel overtones appear spicy black pepper and clove. It’s a smooth, sup- Cottini 2005 Amarone della Valpo- on the finish. Imported by VinUS Inc. —M.L. ple wine with a correct, albeit one-dimensional, 88 licella Classico; $NA. Here’s a thinner mouthfeel. Imported by Votto Vines Importing. style of Amarone with bright aromas of wild berry, Luciana Cordioli 2006 Vignenuove —M.L. white cherry and toasted almond. The wine is crisp 88 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- and sharp on the close, with a focused, stream- sico); $50. This pretty Amarone is aged two Montresor 2006 Giacomo Montre- lined feel in the mouth. —M.L. years in large oak to help shape aromas of spice, 88 sor (Amarone della Valpolicella); cinnamon and vanilla. Those ethereal tones are $45. A 70-30 blend of Corvina and Rondinella, Falezza 2005 Amarone della held up by a strong base of red berry fruit and the this bright Amarone offers simple but genuine 88 Valpolicella; $NA. Here’s a new pro- wine is thick and long-lasting in the mouth. aromas of forest berry, toasted almond, cherry ducer from Valpolicella who presents a sharp and Imported by VinUS Inc. —M.L. cola and vanilla bean. The wine is smooth, pol- angular Amarone with fine aromas of spice, wild ished and crisp on the close. Imported by Bronco berry, black tobacco and tea leaf. The wine is Luigi Righetti 2006 Capitel de’ Wine Company. —M.L. bright and compact with soft tannins and natural 88 Roari (Amarone della Valpolicella freshness. —M.L. Classico); $35. This is a smooth and rich Musella 2005 Riserva (Amarone Amarone with equal parts jammy fruit set against 88 della Valpolicella); $44. This Riserva La Giaretta 2004 I Quadretti a smokey oak component. The wine slides nicely Amarone shows a meaty, bold, sweet and jammy 88 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- over the palate with a lavish, velvety texture and personality with loads of aromatic intensity. It’s sico); $58. Bright acidity firm tannins are imparts more oak spice and mesquite on the almost too much of a good thing with overripe

WineMag.com | 3 9 BUYING I GUIDE flavors of prune and berry marmalade. Imported Tezza 2006 Corte Majoli (Amarone Corte Lenguin 2006 Amarone by Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. 88 della Valpolicella); $40. Here’s a light 87 della Valpolicella Classico; $36. and well-toned Amarone that boasts bright aro- This 70-30 Corvina and Rondinella Amarone Pasqua 2005 Villa Borghetti mas of white cherry, cranberry, spice, dried blend is slightly disjointed on the nose with con- 88 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- tobacco and tea leaf. It’s a food-friendly alternative trasting aromas of toasted oak and ripe fruit. It sico); $45. Here is a clean, easy expression of that would pair with roast chicken or roll pork makes a nice impression in the mouth, however, Amarone that promises to make an easy match to stuffed with prunes. Imported by Haw River Wine thanks to its smooth, rich texture. Imported by roast beef or ravioli in meat sauce. The wine shows Man. —M.L. Franco Wine Imports. —M.L. medium density and power with loads of jammy fruit on the close. Imported by OWS. —M.L. Vaona 2006 Paverno (Amarone Le Guaite 2003 Le Guaite di Giuli- 88 della Valpolicella Classico); $NA. 87 etta (Amarone della Valpolicella); Pasqua 2006 Villa Borghetti This smokey Amarone opens with woody tones of $NA. Here’s an Amarone with raw notes of 88 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- forest floor and bramble followed by savory notes cherry and root beer backed by mesquite smoke, sico); $45. Clean and lean in both power and of cured beef and wild mushroom. Dark fruit fla- spice, leather and cigar box. It’s a very sweet, suc- execution, this lively Amarone shows pretty aro- vors fill in the background and the wine ends with culent wine with soft tannins and a long, chewy mas of red cherry, tobacco, root beer and Spanish distinct layers of leather and dried tobacco leaf. finish. —M.L. cedar. It also delivers warming, generous texture Imported by North Berkeley Imports. —M.L. Luigi Righetti 2007 Capitel de’ on the finish. Imported by OWS. —M.L. Villa Canestrari 2004 Riserva 1888 87 Roari (Amarone della Valpolicella Pietro Clementi 2005 Amarone 88 Plenum (Amarone della Valpoli- Classico); $35. Amarone Capitel de’ Roari delivers a crisp, lean expression that showcases 88 della Valpolicella Classico; $NA. cella); $NA. Ripe, jammy aromas of cooked Valpolicella winemaking tradition. The only out- Like in past vintages, this wine presents very cherry, blackberry tart, cinnamon, mesquite of-place elements are the oak shadings that vibrant aromas of apple and dried apricot fol- smoke, chocolate fudge and ground clove emerge comes across as toasted nut, leather and dried lowed by red berry fruit and spice. It shows a tra- from the nose of this powerful Amarone Riserva tobacco. Imported by Prestige Wine Imports ditional, compact style that is firm and bright in a very direct and immediate manner. The wine Corp. —M.L. without being too dense or heavy. —M.L. boasts a ripe, succulent style with loads of chewy, syrupy fruit on the long close. —M.L. Monteci 2004 Costa delle Corone Recchia 2003 Ca’ Bertoldi (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- Villa Girardi 2004 Opere di San 87 88 sico); $45. At a whopping 17.5% alcohol, this sico); $NA. This is an aged and elegant Pietro (Amarone della Valpolicella 88 powerful Amarone delivers heat, brawn and loads Amarone that shows a dark garnet color with Classico); $90. Sweet tobacco and overripe of mature cherry, ripened blackberry and slight amber highlights. Tertiary aromas of spice, cherry open the nose of this thick, jammy tobacco. You can feel the burn on the close so be leather, dried tobacco, lavender and candied fruit Amarone. The wine exhibits a syrupy, bold careful to pair this wine with a hearty winter dish fill the bouquet and the wine shows lively sweet- mouthfeel with lingering tones of smoke, beef that will soak it all up. Imported by Bacchanal ness and fullness on the palate. The 2003 vintage jerky and spice on the finish. Imported by Petrea Wines. —M.L. was very hot and you can feel the wine’s power Imports. —M.L. and determination. —M.L. Salgari 2005 Colline di Moron Zonin 2006 Amarone della Valpo- Rabieto (Amarone della Valpoli- San Cassiano 2004 Amarone della 87 88 licella; $70. Zonin’s 2006 Amarone cella Classico); $NA. There’s a crisp, pointed 88 Valpolicella; $NA. Here’s a powerful, opens with very ripe aromas of raspberry and note of fresh fruit and red apple that gives this mature and jammy Amarone that explodes with strawberry jam followed by spice, leather and dense Amarone a bright and buoyant feel. The thick, raw and chewy aromas of blackberry pie tobacco. Those raisin and dried fruit flavors wine shows spicy tones of black pepper and spice and cherry confiture. You’ll feel the high alcohol appear again on the palate, pushed forward by with loads of berry fruit and currants at the back in the mouth, as well as the wine’s thick extrac- the wine’s thickness and soft sweetness. Imported —M.L. tion. —M.L. by Zonin USA. —M.L. Savoia 2004 Vigneti dei Coali Tedeschi 2005 Capitel Monte Olmi Cantine Lenotti di Lenotti 2005 87 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- 88 (Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- 87 Amarone della Valpolicella Clas- sico); $NA. This is a thickly extracted Amarone sico); $90. Amarone usually delivers soft, sico; $55. This is a curious Amarone with a dis- with a black, inky appearance and powerful aro- smooth tannins but Capitel Monte Olmi, on the tinct nose of root beer, toasted almond and mas of black fruit, exotic spice, bresaola, other hand, exhibits tight, astringent firmness fol- medicine cabinet. It delivers a well-toned, mel- mesquite wood and cola. It’s almost too much of a lowed by sweet, jammy fruit. Give this wine low close with soft tannins and more cherry cola good thing and the palate becomes overwhelmed another five years to soften in the bottle. flavors on the finish. Imported by BelVino LLC. by the wine’s muscle, power and overall sweet- Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.L. —M.L. ness. —M.L.

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 Tommaso Bussola 2003 Amarone Tedeschi 2008 Capitel San Rocco Santi 2007 Solane (Valpolicella 87 della Valpolicella Classico; $NA. 90 (Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso); 87 Classico Superiore Ripasso); $15. Here’s a ripe and jammy expression of Amarone $23. Tedeschi presents a beautifully balanced There’s a clean and polished nature to this pretty that shows some of the heat of the 2003 vintage. Ripasso with a successful contrast between ele- Ripasso that delivers aromas of bright red berry, Red cherry and raspberry jam are backed by gance and power. The aromas here recall mature raspberry, cola, leather, tar and a touch of white gritty spice and firm tannins. Imported by Vieux fruit, spice, leather and Spanish cedar and the pepper. It’s equally toned and simple in the Vins, Inc. —M.L. wine offers a long, thick and soft finish. Imported mouth with good persistency without the chunky by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.L. consistency. Imported by Frederick Wildman & Fattoria Garbole 2006 Amarone Sons, Ltd. —M.L. 85 della Valpolicella; $60. There’s a Tenuta Sant’Antonio 2007 Monti raw, sharp element to this Amarone that comes 90 Garbi (Valpolicella Superiore Bennati 2007 Soraighe (Valpoli- off aromatically as fresh dill, forest floor, cured Ripasso); $18. Monti Garbi is a beautiful 88 cella Classico Superiore Ripasso); meat, bresaola and cooked cherry. The wine expression of Ripasso with just the right touch of $NA. Dark concentration and a deep garnet closes on a fresh, bitter note. Imported by heft and intensity to pair with roast lamb or color make a great first impression and the wine George Wines. —M.L. grilled steak. Aromas of sweet spice and red fruit follows through with ripe aromas of dried black- fill the mouth and the wine ends with a soft, vel- berry, spice, tar, resin and cola. This is a dense vety texture. Imported by Dalla Terra Winery and determined Ripasso and the sweet fruit fla- RIPASSO Direct. —M.L. vors it releases on the palate shape the wine’s soft, supple finish. —M.L. Cesari 2007 Bosan (Valpolicella Venturini Massimino 2006 92 Superiore Ripasso); $39. Cesari’s 90 Semonte Alto (Valpolicella Clas- Bertani 2007 Villa Novare (Valpoli- Bosan is among the top three Ripasso wines avail- sico Superiore Ripasso); $25. This is a classy cella Classico Superiore Ripasso); able in the U.S. market. This beautifully crafted and rich Ripasso that opens with distinctive tones 88 $25. Villa Novare offers a light and bright expression is rich and complex with lovely aro- of mature fruit, spice, tobacco and smoked expression of Ripasso that ties nicely into Valpoli- mas of ripe cherry, blackberry, leather, mesquite, mesquite wood. You could pair this wine with cella tradition where the focus is on balance and cola, roasted almond and sassy Indian spice. It stewed lamb or grilled beef thanks to the natural elegance. You’ll also enjoy the wine’s food- shows density and long-lasting fruit flavors on the thickness of the mouthfeel. Imported by friendly qualities such as its medium structure close. Imported by Opici Wines. —M.L. Panebianco. —M.L. and smooth finish. Imported by Palm Bay Inter- Cesari 2008 Mara (Valpolicella Villa Erbice 2007 (Valpolicella national. —M.L. Superiore Ripasso); $21. Cesari’s Superiore Ripasso); $35. This is a 91 90 Bonazzi Dario e Fabio 2006 Ca’ Mara Ripasso shows enormous richness and compelling and rich Ripasso that opens with Camparsi (Valpolicella Classico intensity that is underscored by polished aromas intense aromas of mature fruit, plum, prune, cas- 88 Superiore Ripasso); $NA. Rich and steady, of mature fruit, spice, plum, mesquite and sis, clove, cardamom and smoked spice or cured with loads of ripe fruit, exotic spice, leather, maraschino cherry. The wine does a very nice job ham. There’s very nice complexity here the the of delivering both elegance and power. Imported wine hits the palate with determination and inten- chocolate and smokey barbecue sauce. This wine by Opici Wines. —M.L. sity. Imported by Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. does a very nice job of balancing its sweet cherry flavors against warm, oak-driven aromas. —M.L. Le Salette 2007 I Progni (Valpoli- Tommasi 2008 Valpolicella Clas- Brigaldara 2007 Il Vegro (Valpoli- 90 cella Classico Superiore Ripasso); 89 sico Superiore Ripasso; $27. Tom- $34. There’s a modern twist to this traditional masi’s elegant Ripasso represents an alternative to 88 cella Classico Superiore Ripasso); wine of northern Italy that comes forward aro- many of the more densely extracted and exagger- $22. Ripasso Il Vegro offers a rich and meaty matically as spice, vanilla, leather and loads of ated wines you will find in this category. Aromas bouquet with aromas of cured beef and honey black fruit. It shows fine texture and density and include cherry and spice and the wine shows a roasted ham. There are also bright fruit tones of would make a good match to oven-roasted pasta. point of ripe, sweet fruit on the close. Imported cherry and blackberry and the wine adds a crisp Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. by Rolar. —M.L. touch of sour cranberry at the very end. Imported by Vinifera Imports. —M.L. Remo Farina 2007 Montecorna Vigneti Villabella 2006 Valpoli- 90 (Valpolicella Classico Superiore 89 cella Classico Superiore Ripasso; Brunelli 2008 Pa’ Riondo (Valpoli- Ripasso); $26. Montecorna is a wonderful $18. Aged in large oak casks, this dark and 88 cella Classico Superiore Ripasso); Ripasso that tastes soft and velvety without being thickly extracted Ripasso does a nice job of inte- $26. Pa’ Riondo is a fresh, fruit-forward Ripasso too heavy or chewy. Elegant layers of spice, wild grating mature black fruit aromas with spice and with loads of cherry, blackberry and cassis on the berry and roasted nut form a bright aromatic tobacco. The oak element is nicely tucked in the bouquet. That natural freshness continues to the bouquet and the wine imparts long-lasting berry background and the wine shows bright fruit fla- mouth, where the wine shows good acidity flavors. Imported by Banville & Jones Wine Mer- vors in the mouth as well. Imported by Wine backed by hearty concentration and density. chants. —M.L. Wave. —M.L. Imported by ID Beverage Group. —M.L.

WineMag.com | 4 1 BUYING I GUIDE

Buglioni 2006 Il Bugiardo (Valpoli- Cantine Lenotti di Lenotti 2007 Le Ripasso); $NA. Vintner Ettore Righetti presents 88 cella Classico Superiore Ripasso); 88 Crosare (Valpolicella Classico Supe- an extremely food-friendly Ripasso that boasts $30. Il Bugiardo (liar in Italian) is an intense and riore Ripasso); $27. Ripasso Le Crosare is a power and concentration, without being too heavy richly concentrated Ripasso with deep layers of nicely balanced wine that does a good job of con- or chewy. Aromas here include cherry maraschino, chocolate, mature red fruit, smoke and barbecue trasting territory-driven notes of cherry and black- licorice, tar and dark chocolate. —M.L. sauce. It’s a modern, plush rendition with soft, berry against oak-driven notes of spice and vanilla. smooth tannins on the close. Imported by Martin The wine concludes in the mouth with soft, tight Domìni Veneti 2008 Vigneti di Scott Wines. —M.L. tannins. Imported by BelVino LLC. —M.L. 88 Torbe (Valpolicella Classico Superi- ore Ripasso); $NA. This is a hearty, rich CampoReale 2007 Valpolicella Castellani Michele & Figli 2008 Ripasso with loads of dark intensity and smooth 88 Classico Superiore Ripasso; $NA. 88 Collezione Ca’ del Pipa (Valpoli- flavors of ripe cherry, spice, leather, dark choco- You’ll love the density and richness of this dark, cella Classico Superiore Ripasso); $19. late and barbecue sauce. The wine feels opulent velvety Ripasso. Bright aromas include mature This Ripasso delivers very nice fullness and inten- and rich and leaves a long impression of ripe berry, moist earth, tobacco and ground white sity with well-integrated aromas of black fruit, cherry flavors. —M.L. pepper. It’s a smooth, enduring drink with soft suede, spice, nut, cola and leather. It’s soft and tannins and texture. —M.L. velvety with a clean, slightly fresh menthol close. Fabiano 2008 Valpolicella Classico Imported by Bedford International. —M.L. 88 Superiore Ripasso; $NA. Fabiano’s Cantina di Soave 2007 Rocca newest Ripasso opens with bright cherry aromas Corte Rugolin 2007 Valpolicella Sveva (Valpolicella Superiore followed by spice, clove, black pepper and 88 Classico Superiore Ripasso; $32. Ripasso); $21. Here’s a perfect match to 88 pressed rose petal. The wine boasts a soft, steady sausage and white beans. This bright and clean Corte Rugolin presents an elegant and not over- feel in the mouth and relatively smooth texture done Ripasso with pretty aromas of roasted Ripasso offers easy notes of spice and mature overall. Imported by Admiral Imports. —M.L. almond, wild berry, cola, leather and tobacco. fruit with a distinctive note of almond nut. It There’s a warm, wintery feel to the wine that delivers a lean, but firm mouthfeel with a light Gamba 2007 Le Quare (Valpoli- would make it a perfect companion to rolled pork alcoholic push at the end. Imported by MW cella Classico Superiore Ripasso); or meatloaf. Imported by Angelini Wine. —M.L. 88 Imports. —M.L. $16. Instead of brawn and muscle, this ruby Ripasso offers elegance and finesse. The nose is Corte San Benedetto 2006 Valpoli- Cantina di Soave 2008 Duca del redolent of polished black stone, Indian spice and cella Classico Superiore Ripasso; Frassino (Valpolicella Ripasso); 88 loads of dried cassis and wild berry. There’s a 88 $NA. This promises to be a hearty, food-friendly $20. Great intensity and purity are the first playful hint of sweet almond and cinnamon at the wine that offers a distinct vein of cherry sweetness things you will notice from this dark, ruby-col- end. Imported by Giacopuzzi Agency. —M.L. followed by oak-driven tones of vanilla, leather ored Ripasso. The wine’s appearance is thick and and spice. Winter foods such as beef stew and velvety and its aromas recall black fruit, plum, Guerrieri Rizzardi 2007 Pojega game meat would fit the bill nicely here. —M.L. prune, spice and a touch of graphite or mineral. 88 (Valpolicella Classico Superiore It has soft tannins, long persistency and a very Corteforte 2007 Podere Bertarole Ripasso); $25. Pojega is an expressive and pol- smooth feel overall. Imported by MW Imports. 88 (Valpolicella Classico Superiore ished Ripasso that shows a united aromatic front —M.L. Ripasso); $NA. This vineyard-designate composed of spice, mature blackberry, leather Ripasso opens with dark concentration and lush and sweet tobacco. It delivers power and inten- Cantina Sociale della Valpantena aromas of mature fruit, spice, leather, chocolate sity but not in a heavy or exaggerated way. 88 2008 Torre del Falasco (Valpoli- and dried beef or cured ham. This is a rich and Imported by Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L. cella Superiore Ripasso); $NA. Here’s a velvety wine that could stand up to barbecued hearty, luscious Ripasso with clean and well-inte- short ribs smothered in spicy sauce. —M.L. Montecariano 2005 Valpolicella grated aromas of spice, toasted almond, suede, 88 Classico Superiore Ripasso; $50. cola and black fruit. It delivers an elegant, toned David Sterza 2008 Valpolicella This is a sophisticated and powerful rendition of feel and could pair with roast chicken or pork. 88 Classico Superiore Ripasso; $17. Ripasso that offers big intensity and a blast of Imported by Omniwines Distribution. —M.L. This is thinner and more compact in the mouth heat on the close. There are aromas of mature than most wines in this category, but it does also cherry, Indian spice, cinnamon and dark choco- Cantina Sociale della Valpantena offer extremely bring and tonic aromas of white late and the mouthfeel is rich and chewy. 88 2008 Torre del Falasco (Valpoli- cherry, cassis and dried cranberry. There’s a play- Imported by Wooden Ships. —M.L. cella Superiore Ripasso); $NA. A hearty, lus- ful touch of berry bitterness on the close that cious wine with clean and well-integrated aromas would work with cheesy risotto or pasta. Imported Monteci 2005 Valpolicella Classico of spice, toasted almond, suede, cola and black by The Italian Wine Trader. —M.L. 88 Superiore Ripasso; $25. This is a fruit. It delivers an elegant, toned feel and could bold and modern Ripasso with toasted aromas of pair with roast chicken or pork. Imported by Domìni Veneti 2006 La Casetta nut and exotic spice that are followed by choco- Omniwines Distribution. —M.L. 88 (Valpolicella Classico Superiore late, cola, leather, resin and black licorice. It’s a

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 soft, generous wine with finely textured tannins. mouthfeel would stand up to hearty meat dishes. interpretation of what is often a bulky, big wine. Imported by Bacchanal Wines. —M.L. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. Instead, Aldegheri offers a food-friendly wine with just the right level of acidity and tannin to Montezovo 2006 Valpolicella Tinazzi 2008 Tenuta Valleselle pair with cheese or meat. Imported by Testa 88 Superiore Ripasso; $20. Opens with 88 Rovertondo (Valpolicella Superi- Wines of the World. —M.L. mature fruit aromas of prune and plum and fol- ore Ripasso); $NA. This is an oak-influenced lows up with sophisticated notes of leather and Ripasso that opens with sweet aromas of vanilla, Antica Corte 2006 Alfio Moriconi dark spice. It shows soft, velvety tannins on the dark chocolate and espresso bean. Beyond those 87 Selection (Valpolicella Classico close. Imported by Eurobiz Inc. —M.L. tones are more traditional elements of cherry, Superiore Ripasso); $24. This dark and mesquite, Spanish cedar and cinnamon. Sweet extracted Ripasso opens with an inviting, inky Montresor 2006 Castelliere delle fruit nuances run smoothly over the palate and color and aromas of toasted nut, spice, red cherry 88 Guaite (Valpolicella Ripasso Clas- the wine is clean and lively on the close. Imported and cola. There’s a touch of new rubber and sico); $31. This is a very intense and compelling by Terranova Imports. —M.L. moist earth in there as well and the wine feels Ripasso with bright tones of currant berry and weighty but smooth on the close. Imported by blackberry that rise above a spicy base of cinna- Tommasi 2008 Il Sestante Vigneto Saranty Imports. —M.L. mon, chocolate and dried tobacco. The wine is 88 I Pianeti (Valpolicella Classico smooth and soft although it finishes with power Superiore Ripasso); $20. This vineyard- Arduini 2007 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso; $26. and determination. Imported by Bronco Wine designate Ripasso opens with sweet aromas of 87 Arduini’s Company. —M.L. cherry and Christmas spice followed by soft fruit oak-aged Ripasso opens with raw cherry and tones and a smooth texture. It’s an easy, food- blackberry flavors followed by spice, clove and Pietro Zardini 2006 Austero (Valpo- friendly expression that would pair with meatloaf mesquite wood. The wine’s build is tight and con- licella Superiore Ripasso); $NA. or roast pork and potatoes. Imported by Rolar. sistent and the tannins are soft and polished. 88 —M.L. Imported by Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. Austero is indeed an austere wine with thick inten- sity and loads of fragrant aromas of spice and ripe Villa Monteleone 2008 Campo Begali 2008 La Cengia (Valpoli- cherry. In the mouth, it proves an elegant and per- San Vito (Valpolicella Classico cella Classico Superiore Ripasso); haps slightly thinner interpretation of Ripasso that 88 87 Superiore Ripasso); $25. This Ripasso feels $12. Here’s a wine that seems to have experi- would work well with pork or lamb chops. less intense compared to past vintages and offers enced a bit of a transformation in past vintages. Imported by Jao Wine Imports. —M.L. clean notes of black cherry, ripe blueberry, exotic The 2008 expression is lighter and crisper than in spice, root beer and dried apple skin. The wine is the past, but the price tag has also been lowered SalvaTerra 2007 Valpolicella Clas- smooth and supple with light smoke and mesquite considerably. Begali is a consistent, quality- sico Superiore Ripasso; $NA. With 88 on the fade. Imported by Domenico Selections. minded producer and this wine would pair with a dark ruby-garnet color and loads of aromatic —M.L. all kinds of casual home-cooked meals. Imported personality, this is the style of ripe and plump by Siema LLC. Best Buy. —M.L. Ripasso you could pair with succulent cuts of Zecchini 2008 Vigneto Calandra di grilled steak. The wine is soft and smooth in the 88 Romagnano (Valpolicella Ripasso Bertani 2007 Secco Bertani (Valpo- mouth and it imparts bright aromas of black Valpantena); $NA. This lively Ripasso opens 87 licella Ripasso Valpantena); $20. cherry, exotic spice, cola, barbecue smoke and with distinctive notes of spice, clove and dried From the Valpantena subzone of Valpolicella, this toasted almond. Imported by Conexport. —M.L. tobacco. There is ripe fruit here, mostly plum and is a well-balanced and easy-going Ripasso that prune, and the wine ends with a spicy blast of opens with bright aromas of wild berry, forest San Rustico 2006 Valpolicella Clas- flavor. —M.L. floor, exotic spice and leather. It has a compact 88 sico Superiore Ripasso; $NA. San but fresh mouthfeel and would pair with a Rustico is a steady, quality-minded producer Zeni 2007 Marogne (Valpolicella medium intensity meat dish such as rolled veal from Valpolicella and their newest Ripasso offers 88 Superiore Ripasso); $NA. This is a involtini with cheese and sage. Imported by Palm a very nice blend of chocolate, spice and red very pleasurable Ripasso that opens with attrac- Bay International. —M.L. cherry aromas. In the mouth, the wine is rich and tive aromas of sweet spice, nutmeg and ground smooth with various points of fruity sweetness clove. But don’t discount the fruit element Bolla 2007 Le Poiane (Valpolicella along the way. Imported by John Given Wines. because it’s here too, loud and strong, as cherry 87 Classico Superiore Ripasso); $14. —M.L. and blackberry. The wine is smooth, silky and If you aren’t familiar with Ripasso (a hybrid wine slightly sweet at the very end. Imported by DS that borrows elements from austere Amarone Speri 2008 Valpolicella Classico Trading Co. —M.L. and informal Valpolicella), this selection from 88 Superiore Ripasso; $28. Speri is a Bolla is an excellent introductory wine. It opens great producer to watch out for because it consis- Aldegheri 2007 Valpolicella Clas- with a deep-ruby color and bright aromas of red tently offers good quality at competitive prices. 87 sico Superiore Ripasso; $19. Bright, cherry, cola, spice and leather. It ends with both This is a tasty, rich wine with deep layers of cherry, polished and packed tight with bright berry aro- sweet and spicy nuances. Imported by Banfi Vint- spice and tobacco aromas. Its smooth, penetrating mas, this easy-going Ripasso offers an informal ners. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.

WineMag.com | 4 3 BUYING I GUIDE

Bottega 2007 Valpolicella Superi- ore Ripasso); $25. This is a light and informal cherry, spice, blackberry and plum. There’s a 87 ore Ripasso; $NA. Here’s a fresh and Ripasso with plenty of sweet spice followed by touch of piquant crispness in the mouth followed fruity Ripasso that opens with lively aromas of bright blueberry and raspberry. There’s a touch by soft, easy tannins. Imported by North Berke- black cherry, cassis, spice and dark vanilla bean. of sweetness in the mouth and vanilla bean fla- ley Imports. —M.L. The wine also shows a touch of heat and jammy vors appear on the close. Imported by VinUS red fruit on the close. —M.L. Inc. —M.L. Santa Sofia 2007 Valpolicella 87 Superiore Ripasso; $26. Aged in Corte Figaretto 2008 Acini Ameni Luciana Cordioli 2008 Valpolicella large oak casks, this fresh Ripasso makes good 87 (Valpolicella Ripasso Valpantena 87 Classico Superiore Ripasso; $25. use of minimal wood intervention that comes Superiore); $34. This is a light and streamlined What helps make this Ripasso stand out in a forth as light spice and cinnamon. The core of Ripasso that offers the elegance of Valpolicella crowd are its polished mineral notes of slate and this wine, however, consists of pulsing black fruit with the power and intensity of this traditional crushed stone. Those drying aromas are followed and mature cherry. Imported by Laird & Com- school of winemaking. The wine delivers interest- by wild blueberry and light spice. The close is pany. —M.L. ing aromas of black fruit, cola and resin but bright and fresh, albeit simple. Imported by there’s also a touch of green olive or caper at the VinUS Inc. —M.L. Tezza 2006 Valpolicella Ripasso back. Imported by Quigley Fine Wines. —M.L. 87 Valpantena Superiore; $20. From Luigi Righetti 2008 Campolieti the Valpantena subzone of Valpolicella, this easy Corte Giara by Allegrini 2008 87 (Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso opens with a thin ruby color and bright 87 Valpolicella Ripasso; $20. In the Ripasso); $17. Campolieti is a fresh and fruity aromas of white cherry, raspberry candy and past, Allegrini adopted a vocal stand against Ripasso with layers of dried blueberry, rum cake vanilla. The wine closes with a fresh, tonic feel Ripasso (a middle ground wine between Amarone and spice followed by some very light mineral and lively berry flavors. Imported by Haw River and Valpolicella) and for this reason Corte Giara shadings. It boasts a crisp, clean mouthfeel and Wine Man. —M.L. Ripasso comes as a big surprise. Despite the con- ends with a hint of vanilla and toasted almond. troversy, this historic producer presents a very Imported by Prestige Wine Imports Corp. —M.L. Tezza 2007 Ma Roat (Valpolicella acceptable wine with pretty tones of sweet spice 87 Ripasso); $15. Here’s an easy and and bright berry. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. Monte Faustino 2005 La Traver- affordable Ripasso that makes an excellent choice 87 sagna (Valpolicella Classico Supe- for informal, home-cooked meals. Pasta, risotto Corte Lenguin 2007 Valpolicella riore Ripasso); $30. Here’s a thin and or fried pork chops would work well against the 87 Classico Superiore Ripasso; $20. easy-going Ripasso that starts with bright fruit wine’s fresh acidity, medium build and bright There’s a deep smoky element here that is offset aromas of cherry, blueberry and dried raspberry. fruit flavors. Imported by Haw River Wine Man. by bright tones of cherry and blackberry. This is a There are hints of sourness, but also sweetness, —M.L. wine that would pair beautifully at an outdoor bar- and the mouthfeel is compact and bright overall. becue with hamburgers and baby back ribs. Imported by Vinifera Imports. —M.L. Tezza 2007 Corte Majoli (Valpoli- Imported by Franco Wine Imports. —M.L. 87 cella Superiore Ripasso); $16. This Monteci 2005 Costa delle Corone vintage of Tezza’s Corte Majoli Ripasso offers Gamba 2007 Campedel (Valpoli- 87 Tenazio (Valpolicella Classico much more intensity on the nose that comes for- 87 cella Classico Superiore Ripasso); Superiore Ripasso); $30. This Ripasso will ward as smoky-spice, leather, tobacco and mature $18. There’s a sweet, inviting aspect to the nose appeal to those who enjoy a bold, meaty style of berry. The wine is aged in oak and this process had here that recalls Christmas spice, nutmeg, rum wine. Definitely a solid choice for grilled steak, imparted background tones of vanilla and toasted cake and mature blackberry. The wine feels com- there are bold aromas of cured beef, spice, mature nut. Imported by Haw River Wine Man. —M.L. pact and firm on the close and would pair with fruit and old leather. Imported by Bacchanal roasted ham with clove under the skin. Imported Wines. —M.L. Tinazzi 2008 Monterè Cà de’ by Giacopuzzi Agency. —M.L. 87 Rocchi (Valpolicella Superiore Nicolis 2006 Seccal (Valpolicella Ripasso); $NA. Packaged in a very heavy glass La Dama 2007 Valpolicella Classico 87 Classico Superiore Ripasso); $NA. bottle, this bright Ripasso opens with mature aro- 87 Superiore Ripasso; $NA. La Dama Seccal Ripasso opens with a dark garnet color and mas of prune, raspberry, cherry and cassis. Tones offers a subdued and elegant Ripasso with soft intense aromas of mature fruit, blackberry jam, of leather and tobacco fill in the rear and the wine layers of ripe cherry, blackberry, Indian spice, cherry liqueur, spice, mesquite, Spanish cedar and is compact on the close with a touch of bitter clove, nutmeg and touches of moist pipe tobacco. cola. Sweet, jammy flavors characterize the almond. Imported by Terranova Imports. —M.L. The feel it imparts in the mouth is soft, fine and mouthfeel and the wine ends with a delicate touch bright. In fact, the wine offers enough natural of crushed white peppercorn that gives it focus Tinazzi 2007 Monterè Cà de’ freshness to pair with cheesy lasagna or oven and personality. Imported by Vignaioli. —M.L. 87 Rocchi (Valpolicella Superiore roasted pasta. —M.L. Ripasso); $14. Corvina, along with smaller per- Novaia 2007 Valpolicella Classico centages of Rondinella and Molinara, is the base Luciana Cordioli 2007 Vignen- 87 Superiore Ripasso; $NA. An easy- for this meaty expression of Ripasso. Aromas here 87 uove (Valpolicella Classico Superi- going Ripasso, opening with bright tones of include raw cherry, blackberry tart, dark vanilla

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 bean and barbecue spice. Imported by Terranova Corte Campagnola 2006 Gli Archi La Giaretta 2007 Valpolicella Clas- Imports. —M.L. 86 (Valpolicella Ripasso Classico); 85 sico Superiore Ripasso; $22. This $NA. Gli Archi Ripasso is a simple, honest and friendly Ripasso opens with sweet and slightly Tommaso Bussola 2005 Ca’ del easy red wine that would pair with rosemary- overripe aromas of strawberry, spice, honey- 87 Laito (Valpolicella Superiore marinated lamb and roast potatoes. The no-fuss roasted nut, cassis syrup, new leather and cola. Ripasso); $NA. This vintage of Ripasso Ca’ del bouquet is redolent of wild berry and roasted It’s simple and straightforward in the mouth how- Laito opens with meaty aromas of bresaola and almond and there’s a good amount of heft and ever with a raw, sharp feel. Imported by The cured beef followed by mature cherry and black- power on the finish. Imported by Monarchia Country Vintner. —M.L. berry. The wine is soft and chewy, with succulent Matt International. —M.L. fruit pulp and a distinct note of sweet spice on Villa Canestrari 2006 I Lasi (Valpo- the close. Imported by Vieux Vins, Inc. —M.L. Gino Fasoli 2006 La Corte del 85 licella Superiore Ripasso); $NA. I 86 Pozzo (Valpolicella Ripasso); $NA. Lasi is a thin and informal Ripasso with easy lay- Vaona 2008 Pegrandi (Valpolicella La Corte del Pozzo is an easy-going Ripasso with ers of blueberry and cherry backed by light spice 87 Superiore Ripasso); $NA. Ripasso bright berry nuances and loads of natural fresh- and smoke shadings. There’s a slightly sour note Pegrandi is a polished and squeaky clean wine ness and crispness. The wine would pair with in the mouth and the wine ends with a lean, crisp with fine aromas of wild fruit, spice, natural rub- easy, fatty foods like pizza or lasagna with melted close. —M.L. ber and toasted almond. It tastes crisp, tight and mozzarella. —M.L. Villalta 2008 Valpolicella Ripasso; would make a great companion to green peppers Manzini 2004 Valpolicella Classico $NA. or zucchini stuffed with rice and ground veal. 85 Villalta’s Ripasso opens with sim- Superiore Ripasso; $NA. Imported by Premium Brands. —M.L. 86 Cherry ple aromas of spice, dried fruit and forest berry. candy and cola aromas emerge from the nose of Although the intensity and overall staying power Villa Girardi 2008 Bure Alto this simple, but very bright Ripasso. There’s a tiny is very nice, the wine definitely represents the (Valpolicella Classico Superiore hint of dried apple skin or citrus at the back and less formal side of the Ripasso spectrum. —M.L. 87 the wine is smooth and lively on the close. —M.L. Ripasso); $25. Here’s a less formal expression Le Bertarole 2007 Valpolicella of Ripasso that would work nicely next to a home San Cassiano 2008 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso; $NA. cooked meal of meatloaf or pasta with meat ragù. 83 Superiore Ripasso; $NA. Here’s a There’s an awkward note of alcohol here backed The wine shows integrated acidity next to bright 86 light and informal Ripasso that opens with bright by toasted chestnut or hazelnut. After a few min- aromas of cherry and white chocolate. Imported berry tones, forest floor, mesquite wood and cedar. utes in the glass however, the wine regains its by Petrea Imports. —M.L. The wine’s consistency is thin and bright and there confidence in the form of cured meat and ripe are sour cherry flavors at the end. —M.L. blackberry aromas. Imported by Vinarium Inc. Antolini 2007 Valpolicella Classico —M.L. Superiore Ripasso; $NA. 86 The wine Tezza 2006 Corte Majoli (Valpoli- makes a raw, sharp first impression that suggests cella Superiore Ripasso); $16. Mea- Falezza 2004 Valpolicella Superi- a paring with a dish that is rich in cheese or but- 86 sured aromas of wild berry and exotic spice are ore Ripasso; $NA. Falezza’s Ripasso ter. Fresh aromas of wild berry and white almond 82 followed by smoky flavors of cured beef in this opens with an awkward nose that shows hints of follow suit and the wine’s overall texture is soft easy, crisp Ripasso. Offers more depth in the burnt match and sulfur. Those pungent tones do but lean. Imported by Terra Verus Trading Co. mouth than it does the nose. Imported by Haw blow off but the fruit flavors you normally look LP. —M.L. River Wine Man. —M.L. for in a wine like this never completely recover. The mouthfeel is sharp, clean and easy. —M.L. Carlo Boscaini 2007 La Preosa Ca’ Rugate 2008 Valpolicella Supe- 86 (Valpolicella Classico Superiore 85 riore Ripasso; $29. This light and easy Ripasso); $20. Here’s a simple and lean Ripasso Ripasso gears up aromatically over time thanks to VALPOLICELLA that could pair with white beans and grilled its aromas of spice and mature fruit. There’s a raw, sausage. There are bright fruit flavors here and slightly bitter note on the end but the wine makes Quintarelli 2001 Valpolicella Clas- enough acidity to cut through meat dishes, yet a natural partner to roast pork or beef. Imported 91 sico Superiore; $NA. Aged for eight the wine is fundamentally easy and informal over- by Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —M.L. years in oak cask, this is a magical, meditative all. Imported by Tuscany Import. —M.L. wine from the grandfather of Valpolicella tradi- Giuseppe Lonardi 2007 Valpoli- tion. The wine opens with a bright ruby hue with Cent’Anni 2007 Valpolicella 85 cella Classico Superiore Ripasso; lively aromas of apple skin, white cherry, cran- 86 Ripasso; $NA. Here’s a simple, correct $NA. No doubt, this is a simple and sharp wine berry and delicate shadings of soft spice, smoke Ripasso (made with partially air-dried grapes) from northern Italy but it would make a perfect and licorice. Imported by Robert Chadderdon that offers clean aromas of toasted almond, red pairing partner to easy grilled lamb or pork Selections. —M.L. berry and exotic spice. It’s thin, short but smooth chops. It offers clean aromas of wild berry and in the mouth so serve this red wine on informal almond and the mouthfeel is thin and compact. Marion 2006 Valpolicella Superi- occasions. —M.L. Imported by Small Vineyards LLC. —M.L. 90 ore; $30. A step far above your stan-

WineMag.com | 4 5 BUYING I GUIDE dard Valpolicella, this thick, dense and chocolaty sive indeed. Imported by Omniwines Distribu- Masi 2006 Serego Alighieri 650 wine shows enormous depth and personality. It tion. —M.L. 88 Anniversario (Valpolicella Classico also delivers beautifully balanced aromas of ripe Superiore); $19. This historic estate with ties fruit, exotic spice and leather. Imported by Omni- Roccolo Grassi 2005 Valpolicella to the immense heritage of Dante Alighieri pres- wines Distribution. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. 89 Superiore; $45. Roccolo Grassi has ents a very well made wine with intact aromas of produced a beautifully concentrated and oak-aged cherry, root beer, spice and touches of new Tenuta Sant’Antonio 2006 La Ban- Valpolicella that shows sophisticated aromas of leather. The wine is soft and smooth and the 90 dina (Valpolicella Superiore); $34. mature fruit, spice, cola and barbecue sauce. The quality of its fruit is evident in the pristine nature La Bandina is a bold, oak-driven blend that opens wine is rich and supple with a long, smooth finish. of its flavors. Imported by Folio Fine Wine with sweet notes of spice, vanilla, campfire and Imported by Chambers & Chambers. —M.L. Partners. —M.L. tons of berry fruit and mature cherry. It tastes plush and rich in the mouth: This is by no means Roccolo Grassi 2006 Valpolicella Santa Sofia 2006 Monte Gradella your standard Valpolicella. Imported by Dalla 89 Superiore; $38. This hearty Valpoli- 88 (Valpolicella Classico Superiore); Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. cella opens with meaty tones of cured beef, cola, $29. Monte Gradella is an elegant and austere teriyaki sauce and mesquite smoke. It’s a rich, Valpolicella that represents the best of this tradi- Corte Sant’ Alda 2006 Mithas smooth wine with a polished finish and loads of tional category of wine. The wine speaks highly of 89 (Valpolicella Superiore); $NA. fruit intensity on the very long fade. Imported by its territory, with aromas of maraschino cherry, There’s a perfumed, oaky quality to this wine that Artisan Wines, Inc. —M.L. cedar smoke and sweet aromas of vanilla bean translates into mesquite, barbecue, sandalwood and espresso. It shows firm, but polished tannins and fragrant church incense. Loads of black fruit Tenuta Sant’Antonio 2005 La Ban- with sweet jammy fruit flavors on the close. appears at the back and Mithas shows firm texture 89 dina (Valpolicella Superiore); $34. Imported by Laird & Company. —M.L. with polished tannins. Imported by Domaine Here’s a very different, modern approach to Select Wine Estates. —M.L. Tedeschi 2007 La Fabriseria (Valpo- Valpolicella in which this otherwise thin and crisp licella Classico Superiore); $40. red blend from northern Italy has been trans- 88 Corte Sant’ Alda 2006 Mithas Compared to the 2006 vintage of this same wine, formed (thanks to careful oak aging) into a rich, (Valpolicella Superiore); $NA. this expression offers a greener personality with 89 modern wine. Lingering tones of black cherry There’s a perfumed, oaky quality to this wine that bright aromas of cut grass and herbs over loads of and Indian spice flavor the long finish. Imported translate into mesquite, barbecue, sandalwood and dark fruit and exotic spice. There’s a soft, sweet by Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. fragrant church incense. Loads of black fruit and chewy quality to the wine’s thick texture. appears at the back and Mithas shows firm texture Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.L. Zenato 2007 Ripassa (Valpolicella with polished tannins. Imported by Domaine Superiore); $28. Made with partially Select Wine Estates. —M.L. 89 Bertani 2006 Villa Novare Vigneto dried grapes, Ripassa is a full and generous wine Ognisanti (Valpolicella Classico packed tight with ripe fruit, spice and tobacco 87 Giuseppe Campagnola 2007 Cate- Superiore); $33. What’s really nice about this aromas. It imparts a rich, smooth feel with linger- rina Zardini (Valpolicella Classico wine is that it offers mellow, soft structure behind 89 ing notes of cinnamon and cherry on the finish. Superiore); $28. This sees 12 months of oak its vibrant cherry flavors. If you’re looking for a aging for extra layers of spice, leather and tobacco Imported by Winebow. —M.L. good, solid Valpolicella to pair with all kinds of that sit over a solid base of red fruit and cherry easy, home-cooked meals, Villa Novare is a sure Corte Sant’ Alda 2007 Campi cola. A really nice wine. this is plush and dense in bet. Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L. Magri (Valpolicella Superiore); the mouth with a long, succulent finish. Imported 88 by Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. $NA. Campo Magri is a bright and lively Valpoli- Cavalchina 2008 Morari Torre cella Superiore with crisp tones of cherry and 87 d’Orti (Valpolicella Superiore); Giuseppe Campagnola 2008 Cate- wild berry backed by slight smoke and spice. The $NA. Here’s a spicy, hot Valpolicella Superiore 89 rina Zardini (Valpolicella Classico natural acidity will cut through the density or (the alcohol can be felt) that opens with mature Superiore); $30. The Caterina Zardini Valpoli- ossobuco or beef stew. Imported by Domaine notes of prune, blackberry and syrupy cassis. cella shows a modern touch with richly textured Select Wine Estates. —M.L. There’s a touch of toasted almond and the tannins and loads of bright fruit intensity. Pair mouthfeel picks up speed and intensity thanks to this soft, dense wine with steak and pepper sauce. Domìni Veneti 2006 Verjago its long fruity flavors. Imported by Vin Divino. Imported by Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. 88 (Valpolicella Classico Superiore); —M.L. $NA. Loads of aromatic intensity comes through Marion 2005 Valpolicella Superi- on the bouquet with lovely layers of ripe cherry, Corteforte 2007 Podere Bertarole 89 ore; $30. This is unlike any other spice, mesquite wood, Indian spice and cola. The 87 Ripassato (Valpolicella Classico Valpolicella Superiore available. It drinks like a oak element is evident here and will integrate Superiore); $25. A drying mineral note of slate Ripasso, or even an Amarone, with soft, luscious with a bit more time in the bottle. In the mouth, or graphite runs through the middle of this plush flavors and ripe aromas of black cherry and this rich, ruby-colored wine offers jammy fruit and rich red Ripassato wine from Valpolicella. chocolate. The density and intensity are impres- and soft, velvety texture. —M.L. Background notes of spice and cherry cola come

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 through as well, especially in the mouth where didn’t notice in the past. The mouthfeel is, how- Ca’ Rugate 2009 Rio Albo (Valpoli- the wine boats a soft, compact feel. Pair this wine ever, bright, crisp and refreshingly informal. 86 cella); $16. Rio Albo is an easy, fresh with lamb or light beef dishes. —M.L. Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.L. Valpolicella that recalls those nostalgic days of chequered tablecloths at the neighborhood Degani 2008 Cicilio (Valpolicella Sartori 2003 I Saltari Le Vigne di Italian eatery. It offers loads of fresh fruit flavors 87 Classico Superiore Ripasso); $20. 87 Turano (Valpolicella Superiore); and nice acidity on the close that will cut through Ripasso Cicilio shines bright with personality and $25. Here’s a cheerful vineyard-designate Valpo- pasta or potato gnocchi. Imported by Ideal Wine freshness. This territory-driven wine boasts clean licella that would make a perfect partner to easy and Spirits Co. Inc. —M.L. aromas of berry fruit, light shadings of spice and a pasta or take-out pizza. The wine opens with touch of sweet cinnamon. It’s easy, crisp mouth- zesty fruit and clean aromas of blueberry, rasp- Cavalchina 2007 Torre d’Orti feel washes clean over the palate. Imported by berry and spice. The mouthfeel is compact and 86 (Valpolicella Superiore); $NA. You Michael R. Downey Selections. —M.L. crisp with medium density. Imported by Banfi absolutely can’t go wrong with a wine like this. Vintners. —M.L. Valpolicella Torre d’Orti is an easy, fresh wine Fabiano 2008 Valpolicella Classico that would pair with anything from lasagna to 87 Superiore; $NA. Fabiano’s pretty Sartori 2005 Vigneti di Monte- cheeseburgers. It’s crisp and thin with a nice Valpolicella Classico Superiore offers very nice 87 gradella (Valpolicella Classico quality of cherry, raspberry and cassis fruit. aromas of plump red cherry followed by spice, Superiore); $14. This ruby-colored Valpolicella Imported by Vin Divino. —M.L. leather, tobacco and moist earth. It’s a simple opens with bursting tones of red cherry and Corte Sant’ Alda 2009 Ca’ Fiui wine in the mouth but it’s not without its own blackberry with nice spice and toasted almond (Valpolicella); $NA. distinct personality and appeal. Imported by accents. The mouthfeel is not too rich or bold, 86 Made with Admiral Imports. —M.L. but the wine does deliver pretty flavors of jammy organically-farmed grapes, this Valpolicella blend offers meaty aromas of ripe cherry, moist pipe fruit and pressed violet. Imported by Banfi Vint- Latium di Morini 2006 Campo tobacco and light shadings of dark spice. It deliv- ners. —M.L. 87 Prognài (Valpolicella Superiore); ers medium length and intensity with a very $25. Campo Prognài is a gracefully oak-aged Sartori 2006 Vigneti di Monte- crisp, almost bitter fade. Imported by Domaine Valpolicella Superiore that shows surprising den- gradella (Valpolicella Classico Select Wine Estates. —M.L. sity and persistency with lively aromas of cherry, 87 Superiore); $14. Vigneti di Montegradella is a blackberry, toasted almond and exotic spice. Pair Dall’Abaco Fedrigoni 2007 (Valpo- well-priced Valpolicella with more intensity and this wine with roasted chicken or meatloaf. licella Classico Superiore); $NA. density than you’d expect. In fact, the wine offers 86 Imported by USA Wine Imports. —M.L. There’s a modern touch of vanilla bean, chocolate determination and personality with enough natu- and soft spice that comes on the heels of bright ral extraction to pair with bean soup or barbe- Mazzi 2006 Vigneto Poiega cherry and plum. You’ll also recognize tones of cued hamburgers. Imported by Banfi Vintners. (Valpolicella Classico Superiore); mesquite and cherry cola and this ruby-colored 87 Editors’ Choice. —M.L. $NA. Roberto Mazzi’s family has produced a spicy Valpolicella Classico Superiore offers very good and thick vineyard-designate Valpolicella with lush intensity with sour cherry flavors on the finish. Villa Bellini 2006 Taso (Valpolicella tones of mature fruit followed by toasted nut and —M.L. Classico Superiore); $NA. old leather. Crisp berry tones, a thin mouthfeel 87 Fastened and fresh acidity are framed against a background with a pretty pink wax capsule, Taso Valpolicella is L’Arco 2004 Valpolicella Classico of ripe berry fruit. Imported by A Marc de Grazia a fresh and informal wine that would pair beauti- 86 Superiore; $35. This is a simple, selection; various American importers. —M.L. fully with pasta or pizza. The wine is redolent of correct Valpolicella with clean aromas of cherry, white cherry, blueberry and almond paste. —M.L. blueberry, white almond and raspberry cola. It has Rubinelli Vajol 2007 Valpolicella a smooth, soft mouthfeel with one-dimensional 87 Classico Superiore; $31. There is Allegrini 2009 Valpolicella; $15. fruit flavors. Imported by Terra Verus Trading Co. nice heft and density in the mouth and the wine 86 There’s a nice, easy-drinking quality to LP. —M.L. offers generous cherry and blueberry tones in the this informal Valpolicella that comes across as mouth. This ripe and earthy smelling wine would vibrant cherry and forest berry. It’s lean and com- Le Guaite 2005 Valpolicella Supe- make a great companion to tortellini in chicken pact on the palate with bright acidity on the close. 86 riore; $NA. There’s a raw, chewy qual- broth and Parmigiano cheese or steak with Imported by Winebow. —M.L. ity to this simple Valpolicella that recalls black creamy mushroom sauce. Imported by Magellan cherry and vinous grape. The wine proceeds with Wine Imports. —M.L. Allegrini 2008 Valpolicella Clas- a mellow, soft feel and offers much more fruity 86 sico; $15. Allegrini presents a very intensity and personality in the mouth than it Sartori 2004 I Saltari Le Vigne di likable and smooth Valpolicella with bright berry does on the nose. —M.L. 87 Turano (Valpolicella Superiore); tones and lively shadings of spice and white $27. Compared to the 2003 vintage, the fruit is almond that appear in the background. Pair this Marchesi Fumanelli 2004 Valpoli- slightly more vibrant and polished here. There’s wine wine with grilled sausage or lamb shish 86 cella Classico Superiore; $32. From also a slightly green note of herb or dill that we kabob. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. the 2004 vintage, this is a thin and slightly sour

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Valpolicella that would pair with cheesy pizza or Tedeschi 2007 Capitel dei Nicalò Ca’ Rugate 2008 Campo Lavei ravioli filled with ricotta. The natural freshness 86 (Valpolicella Classico Superiore); 85 (Valpolicella Superiore); $41. Here’s and brightness of the fruit will cut through fatty $20. Available at an attractively low price, this an easy, fresh Valpolicella that opens with cherry, dishes. Imported by The Sorting Table. —M.L. ruby-colored Valpolicella offers bright cherry raspberry, dried herbs and a touch of sweet dill. notes followed by cola and white almond. The The mouthfeel is clean and lean: You could envis- Marchesi Fumanelli 2009 Valpoli- wine imparts a sharp, crisp feel in the mouth. age a successful pairing with chicken, pasta or 86 cella Classico; $18. Here’s a simple Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.L. veal. Imported by Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. and correct Valpolicella that opens with vibrant —M.L. tones of cherry and ripe raspberry. There’s not Tommasi 2008 Vigneto Rafaèl much depth here, but that’s not the point of this 86 (Valpolicella Classico Superiore); CampoReale 2008 Valpolicella wine. Employ it as an easy-drinking red to pair $16. Valpolicella Vigneto Rafaèl opens with 85 Classico; $NA. Here’s an easy, bright with home cooked pasta. Imported by The Sort- bright cherry and wild berry aromas followed by and lively Valpolicella that would make a great ing Table. —M.L. cola and white almond. The wine is crisp, infor- companion to bean soup with heaps of grated mal and easy going in terms of form and sub- Parmigiano cheese on top. It’s a crisp, fresh wine Marchesi Fumanelli 2007 Valpoli- stance. Imported by Rolar. —M.L. with an informal but inviting personality. —M.L. 86 cella Classico; $22. This bright and crisp Valpolicella Classico delivers clean aromas Tommaso Bussola 2005 Valpoli- Fratta Pasini 2006 Valpolicella cella Classico Superiore; $NA. of cherry, blackberry and plum. The wine sees 86 85 Classico; $15. This light and easy- no oak and for that reason, its fruity characteris- Here’s a bold and jammy Valpolicella with loads going Valpolicella Classico opens with a light, tics really shine on the finish. Imported by The of power and alcohol that would pair with stewy lean mouthfeel and clean aromas of cherry and Sorting Table. —M.L. meat dishes or game meat. You’ll feel the heat ripe raspberry. It’s a perfect wine to serve with on the nose followed by determined aromas of appetizers or bruschetta. Imported by Domaine Masi 2008 Bonacosta (Valpolicella exotic spice, cherry maraschino and amaretto Select Wine Estates. —M.L. 86 Classico); $17. Bonacosta is a thin and liqueur. Imported by Vieux Vins, Inc. —M.L. easy-going Valpolicella that makes a food-friendly Mazzi 2008 Sanperetto (Valpoli- Valentina Cubi 2006 Il Tabarro companion to pasta, sliced ham appetizers and cella Classico Superiore); $NA. barbecued hamburger. It offers sharp fruit tones (Valpolicella Classico Superiore); 85 86 Thin, informal and packed tight with crisp wild follows by crisp freshness. Imported by Folio $NA. Here’s a luscious and full Valpolicella that berry flavors, this bright Valpolicella will slice Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. sees both barrique and oak casks for a full, round through fatty or cheesy dishes. In the mouth, it and modern feel. The wine imparts long lasting shows an easy, no-fuss approach with a citrus Rubinelli Vajol 2006 Valpolicella notes of cherry, ripe raspberry and spice. —M.L. twist on the fade. Imported by A Marc de Grazia Classico Superiore; $31. This Valpo- 86 selection; various American importers. —M.L. licella Classico Superiore shows aged aromas of Zecchini 2008 Vigneto Calandra di licorice and tar followed by candied fruit and ripe Romagnano (Valpolicella Valpan- 86 San Cassiano 2007 Valpolicella cassis. It delivers medium density and persistency tena Superiore); $NA. Genuine, honest and Superiore; $NA. and would make a good companion to pork or straightforward, this ruby-colored Valpolicella 85 This ruby-colored roast chicken. Imported by Magellan Wine Superiore from the Valpantena area boasts aro- Valpolicella is distinguished by hot notes of Imports. —M.L. mas of red fruit and blueberry with pretty accents cherry liqueur and spice backed by subtle tones of spice, leather and cola. It’s smooth and velvety of wild berry and fresh blueberry. It’s an easy, soft Savoia 2004 Vigneto I Pipioni on the palate with a buoyant, cheerful touch of wine in the mouth. —M.L. 86 (Valpolicella Classico Superiore); acidity on the finish: Pair this wine chicken or $NA. From a family-run, boutique winery, this pork. —M.L. Speri 2008 La Roverina (Valpoli- well-aged expression of Valpolicella (from the 85 cella); $18. Bright and correct with excellent 2004 vintage) delivers tertiary aromas Zenato 2008 Valpolicella Superiore; clean berry flavors, this is a perfect red wine to of soft spice, leather and dried tobacco. The fruit 86 $14. This easy-going Valpolicella offers pair with meat appetizers or pâtè. It delivers a nuances are still there in the form of dried prunes medium heft and density with fresh notes of thin, watery feel with loads of crisp berry fresh- and plums. —M.L. cherry, blueberry, white almond and cola. Pair this ness in the mouth. Imported by Empson (USA) wine with bruschetta topped with wild mushrooms Ltd. —M.L. Speri 2007 Vigneto Sant’Urbano and olive oil. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. 86 (Valpolicella Classico Superiore); Speri 2007 La Roverina (Valpoli- $32. Valpolicella Vigneto Sant’Urbano offers Bonazzi Dario e Fabio 2007 Ca’ 85 cella); $18. This cheerful, screw cap very bright, albeit, one-dimensional aromas of 85 Camparsi (Valpolicella Classico Valpolicella offers crisp raspberry and cherry fla- red cherry and blueberry. The mouthfeel is crisp Superiore); $NA. Ca’ Camparsi opens with vors over a lean, compact body. It’s a lightweight, and smooth and the wine promises to pair with sweet aromas of mature cherry and raspberry and easy-going wine that would pair with soups or light meat or pasta. Imported by Empson (USA) an easy feel in the mouth. The wine delivers crisp sandwiches. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. Ltd. —M.L. berry flavors and a compact, fine texture. —M.L. —M.L.

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 Tenuta Sant’Antonio 2008 Nanfrè Domìni Veneti 2008 Valpolicella Figari is a simple and tight Valpolicella that opens 85 (Valpolicella); $13. Nanfrè is an easy- 84 Classico Superiore; $NA. Easy, fresh with bright berry nuances and a touch of bitter going Valpolicella blend of 70% Corvina and 30% and bright, this lean Valpolicella opens with aro- almond. There’s also an herbal, medicine like Rondinella grapes that offers fresh berry tones of mas of sour cherry and forest berry. You could note at the back. Imported by Tellitalia Imports. raspberry and blueberry backed by a touch of pair this no-fuss wine with sliced ham and cheese —M.L. almond paste and white chocolate. It’s thin, com- or bruschetta with wild mushrooms. —M.L. pact and very refreshing on the close: Pair it with Villa Spinosa 2006 Figari (Valpoli- ravioli stuffed with ricotta and spinach. Imported La Giaretta 2006 I Quadretti 84 cella Classico Superiore); $15. A by Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. 84 (Valpolicella Classico Superiore); light and cheerful Valpolicella that offers easy aro- $38. This is a bright and easy-going wine would mas of wild berry and raspberry followed by a make a great companion to whole grain pizza or Villa Erbice 2006 Monte Tombole crisp, thin mouthfeel. Pair this wine with sweet pasta with fresh cream and mushrooms. It ends 85 (Valpolicella Superiore); $15. Valpo- and sour pork or other spicy meat dishes. with sharp, crisp cranberry flavors. Imported by licella is an informal but friendly wine that pairs Imported by Tellitalia Imports. —M.L. with a long list of easy foods like pasta and pizza. The Country Vintner. —M.L. This expression opens with bright cherry, blue- Viviani 2005 Campo Morar (Valpo- Le Salette 2009 Valpolicella Clas- berry and almond aromas. Imported by Mascia- licella Classico Superiore); $40. sico; $17. Le Salette’s Valpolicella Clas- 84 relli Wine Co. —M.L. 84 Campo Morar is a sophisticated and rich Valpoli- sico offers bright berry and cherry notes followed cella that sees 18 months of oak aging for extra Villa Erbice 2007 Monte Tombole by crisp acidity and a touch of citrus zest. Pair intensity and density. The wood tones add softness 85 (Valpolicella Superiore); $25. this wine with meatloaf and mashed potatoes. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L. and lingering aromas of vanilla and spice but don’t Monte Tombole Valpolicella opens with easy completely eliminate a sour note on the close. cherry and blueberry aromas backed by light Monte dall’Ora 2006 Monte dal- Imported by Bonhomie Wine Imports. —M.L. nuances of spice and sweet vanilla. The wine is l’Ora (Valpolicella Classico); $30. fresh, lean and crisp on the close. Imported by 84 Monte dall’Ora is an easy-going wine that would Viviani 2007 Campo Morar (Valpo- Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. pair with informal foods or appetizers. There’s a 84 licella Classico Superiore); $40. This fresh 70-30 blend of Corvina and Rondinella Zenato 2007 Valpolicella Superi- note of sour cherry that appears on both the nose and in the mouth. The close is appropriately benefits from oak aging that helps showcase the ore; $14. Imparting distinct notes of 85 quick and crisp. Imported by Louis Dressner wine’s spice and smoke aromas. At its core, how- cola, root beer, black fruit and teriyaki sauce, this Selections. —M.L. ever, this ruby-colored wine offers tonic flavors of is an easy, informal wine. If offers moderate heft sour cherry and raspberry. Imported by Bon- and weight in the mouth that could work with Pietro Clementi 2005 Valpolicella homie Wine Imports. —M.L. Chinese chicken or white meat. Imported by Classico Superiore; $NA. This Valpo- Winebow. —M.L. 84 licella shows a nice level of heft and density with Arduini 2008 Fontana del Fongo ripe cherry and blueberry aromas. There’s a slight Bertani 2009 Villa Novare (Valpoli- 83 (Valpolicella Classico); $13. A wood- tannic touch here and enough natural acidity to 84 cella Classico); $16. Villa Novara aged Valpolicella that opens with sour tones of of pair with cream cheese and chives on crackers. white cherry and bitter almond. This expression presents easy aromas of fresh forest berry and —M.L. almond paste. The wine is informal and sharp taste tart and crisp with forest berry flavors on the close. Imported by Terra Verus Trading Co. making it an ideal companion to pizza with moz- Pietro Zardini 2008 Valpolicella; LP. —M.L. zarella or pasta stuffed with ricotta cheese. 84 $NA. Here’s a simple, relatively complex Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L. Valpolicella that opens with berry tones, spice Arduini 2006 Fontana del Fongo and a touch of bitter almond. The wine is crisp (Valpolicella Classico); $13. A light CampoReale 2009 Valpolicella and compact in the mouth, making it a good 83 exposure to oak aging has helped shape a satisfy- 84 Classico; $NA. Here’s a simple and tart companion to fried finger foods. Imported by Jao ing Valpolicella that presents aromas of wild Valpolicella that would pair with easy stay-home Wine Imports. —M.L. meals. The wine is redolent of white cherry, cran- berry, almond and cured meat. Thanks to its berry and violet. It’s crisp, fresh and one dimen- Valentina Cubi 2008 Iperico sharp acidity you could pair this wine with grilled sional in the mouth. —M.L. 84 (Valpolicella Classico); $NA. Iperico lamb or chicken. Imported by Terra Verus Trad- is a tight, mellow Valpolicella with lean structure ing Co. LP. —M.L. Cantine Lenotti di Lenotti 2009 and medium intensity. There are lively forest 84 Valpolicella Classico; $16. Aged only berry aromas here of raspberry and blueberry and Begali 2008 Valpolicella Classico; in stainless steel, this opens with fresh berry the wine is short, simple and crisp overall. —M.L. 83 $9. A thin, watery wine that does a great nuances, white almond and cola. It’s a thin, bright, job of keeping the mouth refreshed and clean. easy wine that could pair with any informal meat Villa Spinosa 2007 Figari (Valpoli- Would pair well with sliced cheese or cured meat. dinner. Imported by BelVino LLC. —M.L. 84 cella Classico Superiore); $25. Imported by Vignaioli. —M.L.

WineMag.com | 4 9 BUYING I GUIDE

Begali 2009 Valpolicella Classico; a touch of almond paste and cola in the back and Santa Sofia 2007 Valpolicella Clas- 83 $9. Aged only in stainless steel to pre- the wine is compact and crisp on the close. 83 sico; $15. Easy and straightforward, serve its fresh fruit aromas, this is redolent of Imported by Louis Dressner Selections. —M.L. this ruby-colored wine offers one-dimensional white cherry, raspberry and bitter almond. It’s an aromas of white cherry, almond skin and blue- easy wine to pair with appetizers or mixed cheese Monte del Frá 2007 Valpolicella berry. The mouthfeel is light, tonic and crisp. platters. Imported by Siema LLC. —M.L. 83 Classico; $15. A ruby-colored Valpoli- Imported by Laird & Company. —M.L. cella that opens with charred almond or crushed Buglioni 2009 Il Valpolicella granite aromas followed by bright cherry and wild Stefano Accordini 2008 Valpoli- 83 (Valpolicella Classico); $15. Embod- berry. It’s thin and crisp with a thin, watery close. 83 cella Classico; $10. Aged only in stain- ies all the easy-drinking informality of the Italian Imported by Victoire Imports. —M.L. less steel, this well-priced blend of Corvina, wines we knew 20 or 30 years ago. It’s clean and Molinara and Rondinella washes over the palate crisp and would pair with lasagna, pasta or fried Monte del Frá 2008 Tenuta Lena di with ease and good cheer. Pair it with take-out eggplant. Imported by Martin Scott Wines. —M.L. 83 Mezzo (Valpolicella Classico); $15. pizza and spicy sausage. Imported by Omniwines Valpolicella Tenuta Lena di Mezzo is a crisp and Distribution. —M.L. Falezza 2007 Valpolicella; $NA. lean wine that would wash down easily with a 83 This easy, thin Valpolicella opens with hearty plate of pasta with spicy sauce and cubed Vigneti Villabella 2009 I Roccoli one-dimensional aromas of cherry and almond bacon. It offers cleansing acidity and easy fruit aro- 83 (Valpolicella Classico); $18. A thin, skin. It’s crisp and clean in the mouth and would mas Imported by Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. sweet-smelling Valpolicella with aromas of cherry, pair with Chinese food like spicy beef and broc- wild berry, white almond and cola. It ends with coli. —M.L. Monte del Frá 2006 Valpolicella crisp cherry and citrusy flavors. Imported by Classico Superiore; $18. Thin, easy Wine Wave. —M.L. Fattoria Garbole 2007 Valpolicella 83 and informal, this light Valpolicella would pair Superiore; $25. A dark, nicely concen- Villa Monteleone 2008 Campo 83 with cheesy pizza or pasta. There’s fresh acidity trated Valpolicella Superiore with slightly offbeat Santa Lena (Valpolicella Classico); here followed by bright cherry and blueberry fla- 83 and muddled aromas of spice, jammy fruit and $13. Aged only in stainless steel in order to vors. Imported by Victoire Imports. —M.L. sweet nutmeg. The nose is a bit awkward, but the maintain its fresh fruit aromas, this is a simple, feel it imparts in the mouth is smooth and vel- Monteci 2009 Valpolicella Clas- food-friendly wine that would pair with tuna or vety. Imported by George Wines. —M.L. chicken salad. The wine is fresh, clean and short. sico; $15. A simple, crisp Valpolicella 83 Imported by Domenico Selections. —M.L. Classico that offers nice, bright berry notes fol- Gino Fasoli 2008 La Corte del lowed by plump cherry and blueberry. It’s a thin, Pozzo (Valpolicella); $NA. Here’s a Villa Monteleone 2009 Campo 83 crisp wine with chewy fruit tones on the end. thin, easy-going wine that opens with a bright Santa Lena (Valpolicella Classico); Imported by Bacchanal Wines. —M.L. 83 ruby color and easy aromas of cherry and wild $13. Easy on the nose and mouth, offering sim- raspberry. It’s an informal, no-fuss wine to pair ple aromas of cherry, blueberry and white Musella 2008 Vigne Nuove with stay-home family meals. —M.L. almond. In the mouth, it delivers an informal, (Valpolicella Superiore); $12. Aged 83 lean approach. Imported by Domenico Selec- Giuseppe Lonardi 2009 Valpoli- in traditional large oak casks, this easy wine offers tions. —M.L. 83 cella Classico; $NA. There’s a meaty bright berry tones with touches of toasted element of cured beef or bresaola upfront that is almond and spice. It’s lean, crisp and informal Zeni 2008 Vigne Alte (Valpolicella followed by thick aromas of mature cherry and overall. Imported by Vedi Wines. —M.L. 83 Classico); $NA. Vigne Alte is a fresh, blackberry tart. You’ll also detect some earthy or easy Valpolicella blend that could pair with a animal like notes and the wine is informal, thin Musella 2007 Vigne Nuove lunch of roof beef or a ruben sandwich with and crisp in the mouth. Imported by Small Vine- 83 (Valpolicella Superiore); $10. Valpo- French fries. The wine is clean and linear with yards LLC. —M.L. licella Vigne Nuove is composed of a blend of bright berry tones and fresh acidity. Imported by Corvina, Rondinella, Corvinone and a touch of DS Trading Co. —M.L. Guerrieri Rizzardi 2009 Valpoli- Berbera for extra crispness. It’s an easy, informal 83 cella Classico; $18. Easy, clean and wine with tonic berry and cherry flavors. Antolini 2008 Valpolicella Classico; fresh, pair this wine with ravioli and meat sauce Imported by Vintners Estate Direct Importing. 82 $NA. Here’s a thin, crisp, no-fuss Valpo- or lasagna with béchamel. The wine’s sharp acid- —M.L. licella that would pair with pepperoni pizza or ity will cut through the fat in those dishes. spaghetti and meat ragù. The natural acidity can Imported by Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L. Nicolis 2007 Valpolicella Classico cut through spicy meat and cheese, and the wine 83 Superiore; $NA. With a bit more color is lean but clean on the close. Imported by Terra Monte dall’Ora 2008 Saseti and extract, this easy-going Valpolicella offers Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. 83 (Valpolicella Classico); $18. Aged in informal aromas of cherry, almond and cassis. stainless steel, this fresh wine presents a correct Pair it with easy finger foods or appetizers. Brigaldara 2008 Valpolicella; $14. bouquet of cherry and wild berry aromas. There’s Imported by Vignaioli. —M.L. 82 This is an easy, extremely thin Valpoli-

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 cella that offers bright cherry and berry aromas Reserva designation. With solid black fruits and and concentration fitting well with the overall and a lean, citrusy finish. Those informal qualities equally solid, firm tannins, the wine is structured richness. It is a powerful expression, hinting at gear this wine to a pairing with cheesy pizza and and rich at the same time. Expect this impres- minerality while enjoying its opulent character. sausage. Imported by Vinifera Imports. —M.L. sive wine to age for several years. Imported by Imported by Maisons Marques & Domaines Laurel Importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V. USA. —R.V. Nicolis 2008 Valpolicella Classico; 82 $NA. There’s a very sweet, chewy ele- Duorum 2007 Old Vines Reserva Real Companhia Velha 2007 ment to this wine that is followed by biting— 93 (Douro); $45. A structured, elegant and 91 Quinta dos Aciprestes Reserva almost bitter—acidity. Pair this wine with cheese concentrated wine. It is dominated by tannins, by (Douro); $20. Rich, velvety wine, with its firm and crackers. Imported by Vignaioli. —M.L. its mineral structure and its black currant fruit. tannins smothered in opulent fruit. This is a con- There are juicy acidity, firm tannins and a great centrated wine, packing sweet fruits and tannins Nicolis 2009 Valpolicella Classico; sense of style. Still young from a fine Douro vin- together with acidity. Black plum skins give a 82 $NA. Bright, simple, pure this no-fuss tage, it needs several years to mature. Imported by good firm edge and suggest aging potential. Valpolicella drinks like one of those informal carafe Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Imported by Admiral Imports. Editors’ Choice. wine served at the local Italian restaurant. There —R.V. are bright cherry and berry aromas over a very Ramos-Pinto 2007 Duas Quintas lean mouthfeel. Imported by Vignaioli. —M.L. 93 Reserva Especial (Douro); $67. Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora Dark in color, as befits a wine that was food trod- 90 do Carmo 2008 Reserva (Douro); Tezza 2009 Corte Majoli (Valpoli- den in open fermenters. To say it has a Port-like $46. Quinta Nova is downriver of Pinhão, still in 82 cella); $8. This is a simple, thin expres- feel is to emphasize the wine’s concentration, the the heart of Douro vineyards. The wine is sold, sion of Valpolicella that could pair with take-out mellifluous tannins and the powerful black fruits. firm, with a fine balance of dark tannins and con- pizza or corned beef sandwiches. There’s a It needs several years aging. Imported by centrated fruit. It should be aged for 3–4 years. slightly sweet, spice-like note on the close. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Cellar Imported by Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. Imported by Haw River Wine Man. —M.L. Selection. —R.V. Casca Wines 2007 Cape Roca Villa Canestrari 2009 Terre di Churchill’s 2007 Churchill Estates 89 Lighthouse (Douro); $34.5. Big, 82 Lanòli (Valpolicella); $NA. Youthful 92 Grande Reserva (Douro); $NA. Big bold wine, with few concessions, this is richly and fresh, this ruby Valpolicella is thin and lack- and dense wine, its tannins solid and firm, well fruity, its ripe fruits bolstered by tannins. The ing in intensity. That said, it’s an easy-drinking integrated into the velvet texture. Generous black pepper from the alcohol does intrude, giving an option that you could pair with appetizers of fin- plum and berry fruits, the acidity flowing well overheated feel to what is otherwise a powerful, ger food. —M.L. through the wine to give a delicious juicy edge. fruit-driven wine. Imported by Laurel Importers. This is serious, worth aging. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Villa Spinosa 2008 Valpolicella —R.V. 82 Classico; $16. This easy Valpolicella Churchill’s 2008 Churchill Estates opens with sharp green notes of grass and herb, Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora 89 Touriga Nacional (Douro); $28. A followed by white cherry and cranberry. The 92 do Carmo 2008 Grande Reserva fine addition to Churchill’s Douro wines, this is mouthfeel is thin and very simple. Imported by (Douro); $49. A firm, initially austere wine that rich, perfumed with hints of violets, layers of soft Tellitalia Imports. —M.L. only shows its richness slowly. Obviously it needs tannins and jammy red berry fruits. It has a tan- aging, because the dark tannins show the huge nic firmness, but this is cushioned by the gener- Zecchini 2008 Valpolicella; $NA. potential concentration of fruit under the tigth ous fruit. Imported by Frederick Wildman & 82 Easy, thin and watery, this ruby-colored structure. It’s going to be impressive. Give it 5–6 Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Valpilicella has the natural crispness to pair with years. Imported by Artisan Vines Distributing. pizza with sausage and mozzarella. There’s a Cellar Selection. —R.V. Duorum 2009 Tons de Duorum touch of bitter almond on the close that would be 88 (Douro); $12. The second label of nicely offset by sweet butter or cheese. —M.L. Casca Wines 2008 Monte Cascas Duorum, this is a wine packed with vivid black 91 Reserva (Douro); $21. A wine that berry, spice and herbal flavors. There is a fine blends intense acidity with a rich and dense tex- juicy character, full of ripe acidity and a delicious PORTUGAL ture to give a fruit and mineral driven wine. The fruity aftertaste. Imported by Winebow. Best flavors come from plums, taut tannins to create a Buy. —R.V. RED WINES wine that is firmly structured as well as concen- trated. Imported by Laurel Importers. Editors’ Casca Wines 2008 Monte Cascas DOURO Choice. —R.V. 87 Colheita (Douro); $14. A firmly tan- nic wine, with a woody core. It shows stalky black Casca Wines 2008 Monte Cascas Ramos-Pinto 2008 Duas Quintas currant fruit along with tense acidity. At this stage, 93 Grande Reserva (Douro); $38. A 91 Reserva (Douro); $39. A tannic and it is rough round the edges and could use another big, powerful wine that lives up to its Grande powerful black berry fruit driven wine, its weight year. Imported by Laurel Importers. —R.V.

WineMag.com | 5 1 BUYING I GUIDE

Churchill’s 2008 Churchill Estates wood aging. It is finely structured, its richness juicy wine, full of fruit, finishing with acidity. 87 (Douro); $24. A juicy wine, showing not taking away from its balance, although it cer- Imported by Luiz’s Grocery And Liquors. Best ripe fruit and sweet acidity. It feels soft and fresh, tainly is no wimp. Enjoy with hearty meals. Buy.—R.V. the lively fruit much more important than the Imported by Signature Imports. —R.V. lean structure. Imported by Frederick Wildman Casca Wines 2008 Monte Cascas & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. J. Portugal Ramos 2008 Vila Santa 89 Grande Reserva (Alentejano); $38. 91 Reserva (Alentejano); $20. Big, A very round wine that offers a luscious, lip- Real Companhia Velha 2008 Evel tough tannins and dark brooding fruits give this smacking experience of rich fruits, sweet berries 86 (Douro); $13. Smooth, soft wine, very wine a great sense of restrained power. It has and soft tannins. The wine certainly has power, accessible and up-front. The stewed fruit flavors firm muscles, offering support to the plush blue but even as a Grande Reserva, is unlikely to age. and fresh acidity give an attractive lift to this open berry, currant and dark plum skins. It need good At the end, it is showy, not complex. Imported by wine. Imported by Admiral Imports. —R.V. aging, at least over three years. Imported by Laurel Importers. —R.V. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora J. Portugal Ramos 2009 Vila Santa 85 do Carmo 2009 Colheita (Douro); Julian Reynolds 2004 Gloria 89 Aragonês (Alentejano); $20. Rich $20. An attractive, fruity, unoaked wine. It 91 Reynolds (Alentejano); $NA. The and soft, very smooth, this Alentejo version of reveals red berry fruits, light acidity and a fine, Reynolds family has been in Portugal since the Tinta Roriz in the Douro is ripe, rounded, full. It firm tannic concentration. To drink now. 19th century and also owns the legendary has tannins, although these integrate well with Imported by Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. Mouchão wine estate in Alentejo. This wine, the rounded texture. There is a sense of power, homage to Julian Reynold’s mother is a dark, but not overwhelming. Imported by Winebow. brooding complex wine, packed with blackberry —R.V. ALENTEJO acidity and a solid backbone of tannin. Imported by Independence Imports. —R.V. Julian Reynolds 2005 Reserva Herdade do Esporão 2007 89 (Alentejano); $NA. Very black in 93 Esporão Private Selection Gar- Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2007 color, this is a dark and powerful wine. Its texture rafeira (Alentejo); $60. A big, black-colored 90 Montes Claros Garrafeira (Alen- is treacly, opulent, the big spice, plum juice and wine, high on mint aromas, this is wonderfully tejo); $23. An opulent, rich wine, spice and raisin character powering through the tannins. chewy and concentrated. It revels in its smooth wood fitting well into a concentrated texture, Like most of the Julian Reynolds range, it has an texture over a powerfully tannic character. Big, packed with juicy berries, red fruits, hints of cof- old-fashioned barnyard feel, making it a great black, brooding fruits are complemented by fee. It is an impressive, ripe wine, worth aging food wine, but not for sipping Imported by Inde- superripe acidity, bitter chocolate and a firm another 1–2 years. Imported by Luiz’s Grocery pendence Imports. —R.V. aftertaste. Age for 4–5 years. Imported by Espo- And Liquors. —R.V. rao Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Serrano Mira 2008 Monte das Ser- Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2008 89 vas Escolha (Alentejano); $10. This Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2007 90 Reserva (Alentejo); $15. Rich and smooth, full-bodied wine offers plum jam flavors, 91 Grande Reserva (Alentejo); $28. smooth wine, with a velvet texture despite the concentration, with hints of herbs, sweet berries, An impressive wine, dense and structured, with strong core of tannins. The wine is solid, dense, laced with acidity. From the Herdade das Servas great concentration of bitter coffee, dark fruits, full of black plum and chocolate flavors, layered vineyards near the marble quarries of Estremoz, ripe acidity. The tannins are powerful, embraced with fine acidity. It could be aged for one to two this is worth aging for two years. Imported by by the richness of the fruit. This is a wine that years, but is ready to drink. Imported by Luiz’s Lusitano Wine Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. could age 3–4 years. Imported by Luiz’s Grocery Grocery And Liquors. Best Buy.—R.V. And Liquors. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Casca Wines 2008 Monte Cascas Herdade do Esporão 2007 TN 88 Reserva (Alentejano); $21. For an Herdade do Esporão 2007 A 90 Touriga Nacional (Alentejano); Alentejo wine, this is surprisingly light, fresh and 91 Aragonês (Alentejano); $40. $25. While the wine is obviously rich, there is a poised. Yes, there is rich raisiny fruit. but it is eas- Smooth as Aragonês should be, here is a concen- sense of the natural style of Touriga Nacional. ily balanced by a thread of acidity that winds trated wine with obvious power. Its richness gives The tannins are present, although enveloped by through. The tannins are soft, the fruit juicy. a velvet character, but underneath that is a series the ripe berry and plum fruits. Touches of dark Imported by Laurel Importers. —R.V. of dark tannins, brooding black fruits. Age for 3–4 chocolate go with acidity to finish. Imported by years. Imported by Esporao Wines. Cellar Esporao Wines. —R.V. Herdade do Esporão 2007 AB Ali- Selection. —R.V. 88 cante Bouschet (Alentejano); $40. Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2006 Hugely black in color, a big-hearted wine that J. Portugal Ramos 2008 Marquês 89 Premium (Alentejo); $13. A densely tames the rustic Alicante Bouschet character to 91 de Borba Reserva (Alentejo); $70. tannic wine, chocolate and bitter coffee layered produce a densely tannic, spice and damson fruit An impressive, serious wine that shows great ripe with dark fruit and a ripe, spicy edge. Pepper driven wine. There is perhaps just a touch too fruits, concentrated tannins and a solid edge of comes from the alcohol, but this is still a richly much extraction, but there is no question about

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 the force of the wine. Imported by Esporao and gives an essential antidote to the ripe black Wines. —R.V. fruits, leaving a wine that is powerful without TEJO being excessive. Imported by Independence J. Portugal Ramos 2009 Marquês Vale d’Algares 2008 Selection Imports. —R.V. 88 de Borba (Alentejo); $14. The popu- 90 Tinto (Tejo); $27. Mint and wood aro- lar Marquês de Borba brand is a soft, ripe, very Serrano Mira 2005 Herdade das mas go well with this smooth, wood-aged wine. accessible wine. With a light touch of wood aging, Servas Vinhas Velhas (Alente- Blending Touriga Nacional and Petit Verdot it follows easily through with cherry and red plum 87 (resulting in its intense color), the impressive jano); $12. A strong, concentrated and ulti- fruits, a deliciously mouthwatering aftertaste. wine is concentrated with very ripe black fruit, Imported by Signature Imports. —R.V. mately rustic wine, a flavor that derives from the which still retains good levels of acidity. Age for Alicante Bouschet in the blend. This gives it 2–3 years. Imported by Artisan Vines Distribut- Roquevale 2005 (Alentejo); $12. power and alcohol that shows in a pepper charac- ing. —R.V. 88 Herb and spice aromas are followed by a ter. The final juicy palate feels solid and heavy. rich, black-fruited, now mature wine. Concen- Imported by Lusitano Wine Imports. Best Buy. Falua 2009 (Tejo); $10. A stylish trated, the soft dusty tannins are well rounded to —R.V. 88 wine, with mineral tannins and a dusty give a mellifluous, smooth texture, with just a hint texture. It is cool, elegant and with a tight layer of of black plums and acidity. Imported by Lusitano J. Portugal Ramos 2009 Loios acidity. There’s plenty of firm structure, with Wine Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. 86 (Alentejano); $10. Soft, attractive berries and sweet fruit to finish. Age for 2–3 years. Imported by Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2009 wine whose lightness is belied by its 14% alcohol. Best Buy. —R.V. 87 Senses Syrah (Alentejano); $13. That makes it balanced, the black cherry flavors For a Syrah, this is soft, offering more of the well integrated with the easy tannins, light spice Falua 2009 Conde de Vimioso Col- smooth tannins than any bigger structure. It does and acidity. Drink this year. Imported by heita Seleccionada (Tejo); $9. Por- have weight, with a dusty character and some 86 Winebow. Best Buy. —R.V. tuguese grapes are blended with Cabernet juicy sweet plums and raisins, leavened by acidity. Sauvignon in this earthy, aromatic wine. It is Imported by Luiz’s Grocery And Liquors. —R.V. Roquevale 2007 Tinto da Talha dense and concentrated, very solid and chunky. Grande Escolha (Alentejano); $14. The plum-skin fruits and flavors of red pepper Falua 2009 Red Leg Albana (Alen- 85 Alicante Bouschet gives a definite farmyard char- and radish have spice added from wood aging. tejano); $11. The leg here refers to the 87 acter to this wine. It also offers juicy berry fruits Imported by Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. Best red-legged partridge which is native to southern Buy. —R.V. Portugal. The wine is certainly red enough, a and balanced acidity. The two characteristics put blend of Aragonês and Shiraz (they use the Aus- the wine firmly on a food friendly side. Imported Falua 2009 Tâmara (Tejo); $10. tralian spelling). It is firm, richly tannic, attrac- by Lusitano Wine Imports. —R.V. With its earthy aromas and soft palate, this tively full of rich berry, plum and spice. Imported 85 is a rustic wine, the sort designed for pairing with by Signature Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. Julian Reynolds 2006 Tinto Real grilled meat. It has black plum flavors along with (Alentejano); $NA. This is an elegant 84 spice and bright red fruits. Drink now. Imported by Herdade do Esporão 2008 wine, with concentration of black currants and Esporão Reserva (Alentejo); $25. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy. —R.V. 87 juicy sweetness. The downside is the pronounced Something of a disappointment in this vintage, a barnyard character. If you like that, or even can wine that has an awkward bitter character. The wine is fine enough, with rich berry fruits, but live with it, then this is a great value. Imported by OTHER RED WINES misses the style of previous vintages. Imported Independence Imports. —R.V. by Esporao Wines. —R.V. Herdade da Comporta 2008 Parus Ervideira 2008 Conde d’Ervideira 92 (Setubal); $47. A new label for the top J. Portugal Ramos 2009 Vila Santa 83 Reserva (Alentejo); $20. A rustic wine from Comporta, producing a big, rich, mus- 87 Trincadeira (Alentejano); $20. The wine that blends Cabernet Sauvignon with local cular wine. It has powerful tannins, a solid and firm structure and ripe berry and plum fruits. typical burly character of Trincadeira is evident fruit. It has a layer of wood, uncomfortable black The tannins need 2–3 years to round out. here. It is smoothed by wood aging and given currant acidity and a core of tannins. Imported by extra richness with the powerful berry fruits and Imported by Value Wines LLC. —R.V. Lusitano Wine Imports. —R.V. dark tannins. An attractive, early drinking, juicy wine. Imported by Winebow. —R.V. Quinta de Foz de Arouce 2005 Roquevale 2007 Tinto da Talha 90 Vinhas Velhas de Santa Maria Julian Reynolds 2006 Carlos 83 (Alentejo); $7. Rather lean, with high (Beiras); $70. A finely perfumed wine, its ripe 87 Reynolds (Alentejano); $NA. Rich acidity, the wine has red currant fruits, a taut tex- fruits given extra style by wood aging. Made from and dense, a spicy wine, dominated by a smooth, ture and a light spice character. Imported by the local Baga, this shows the potential of what concentrated character. The acidity is present Lusitano Wine Imports. —R.V. can be a tannic grape. It has richness, structure,

WineMag.com | 5 3 BUYING I GUIDE bramble and red stone fruits and a core of miner- Vale d’Algares 2009 Guarda Rios ality. Drink now. Imported by Winebow. —R.V. 84 Rosé (Tejo); $18. The Guarda Rios, or ALENTEJO kingfisher, lives in the vineyards that produce this Herdade do Esporão 2009 Esporão Herdade da Comporta 2009 Châo wine, which is bright pink, strawberry flavored, das Rocas (Setubal); $12. Private Selection (Alentejo); $25. 86 Firm, attractively dry and crisp. Imported by Artisan 92 earthy and fruity, this is a chunky wine, with a An oak-aged wine that is velvet textured, the acid- Vines Distributing. —R.V. core of tannins to go with the fruit. It is not for ity a fresh addition to the rich, opulent fruit. Full aging, its black berry juice demanding attention in the mouth, it is flavored with ripe lime juice and now. A great barbecue wine. Imported by Value PORTUGAL mango. The aftertaste is rich, spicy and delicious. Wines LLC. —R.V. Imported by Esporao Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Adega Cooperativa da Batalha NV WHITE WINES 84 D’Ó (Portuguese Table Wine); DOURO Herdade do Esporão 2009 $5/1 L. The wine—perhaps named in honor of 91 Esporão Reserva (Alentejo); $20. Homer Simpson (Doh!)—is soft, light and freshly Smooth, unctuous and rich, this is a gorgeous Casca Wines 2008 Monte Cascas fruity. It has an attractive final core of tannin and wine that offers ripe peach and pineapple fruits Grande Reserva (Douro); $38. Lush acidity. Imported by Lusitano Wine Imports. 90 to go with the fine acidity and hint of spice. Best Buy. —R.V. yellow fruits shimmy through the toast character Ready to drink now, it could age. Imported by of this wine. It is certainly rich and full, but struc- Esporao Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. tured with a good dose of acidity. This is ripe, PORT rich, suggesting increasing complexity in the next Herdade do Esporão 2009 V few years. Imported by Laurel Importers. —R.V. 89 Verdelho (Alentejano); $13. Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Despite its alcohol, this is actually a delicate, styl- 89 Carmo 2005 Late Bottled Vintage Quinta de Ventozelo 2009 Branco ish, lemon-scented wine. There is an attractive Port; $26. A linear, dry style of Port, structured 89 (Douro); $18. A wood-aged white, rich perfume that shines through the oil and mineral and assured. It has richness, of course, with flavors and creamy as a consequence of the toast. There texture. A great food wine. Imported by Esporao of dried fruits, dark black cherries and acidity. Even is also an attractive perfume from the Moscatel in Wines. Best Buy. —R.V. though it is an LBV, it could certainly age for a few the blend. White fruits, a hint of nutmeg and years. Imported by Artisan Vines Distributing. J. Portugal Ramos 2009 Vila Santa fresh final acidity. Imported by Signature —R.V. Reserva Branco (Alentejano); $20. Imports. —R.V. 89 Elegantly wood-aged wine that has fresh acidity along with toasty pear juice and a rich cream tex- Ramos-Pinto 2009 Duas Quintas ROSÉ WINES ture. It has an attractive nutmeg edge to go with Branco (Douro); $NA. 88 Smooth, its tangy aftertaste. Imported by Winebow. —R.V. Casca Wines 2009 Cape Roca Fish- lightly oily-textured wine, with a vivid citrus char- 85 erman Rosé (Tejo); $11. Very soft, acter over the more emollient pear flavors. It has Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2009 perfumed with bright red cherry fruits, this is a attractive acidity, carrying through the rich tex- 87 Senses Verdelho (Alentejano); lively rosé, light and bright, lilting on the mouth, ture. It is ready to drink now, but will profit from $13. A fine balance between green fruits and finishing with mineral acidity. Screw cap. aging. —R.V. very fresh acidity and a ripe full, lightly oily tex- Imported by Laurel Importers. —R.V. ture. There is a fine citrus tang as well on this Casca Wines 2009 Monte Cascas ripe full-bodied wine. Imported by Luiz’s Gro- Quinta de Santa Maria 2009 86 Colheita Branco (Douro); $14. A cery And Liquors. —R.V. Touriga Nacional Rosé (Minho); 85 soft, lightly floral wine, with an oily texture, the $NA. Attractive, crisp, raspberry-flavored wine ripe pear and apricot fruits edged with citrus. A with a touch of structure and vivid acidity. This is TEJO hint of walnuts goes with the final acidity. a great food rosé, for salads or fish. Imported by Imported by Laurel Importers. —R.V. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. Vale d’Algares 2009 Branco Viog- nier (Tejo); $44. Wood-fermented, Casca Wines 2009 Monte Cascas 91 Falua 2009 Conde de Vimioso Col- lees-stirred, superrich wine. It is complex, the Reserva (Douro); $21. 84 heita Seleccionada Rosé (Tejo); $9. 84 Smoky aromas acidity adding to the nectarine and pineapple fla- A blend of Syrah and Touriga Nacional , this has a on a wine that is curiously lacking in flavor. It is vors. With the wood element carefully judged, it vivid pink color, and a soft, aromatic character. It is soft, light, missing acidity, just hinting at pear does have power but never over steps the mark. A ripe and crisp, packed with strawberry juice fruit. fruits. Boring could be a word. Imported by Lau- real success, and worth aging. Imported by Artisan Imported by Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. rel Importers. —R.V. Vines Distributing. Cellar Selection. —R.V.

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 Vale d’Algares 2009 Selection Quinta de Santa Maria 2009 acter, tinged with white fruits and apple skin 88 Branco (Tejo); $26. Blending Alvar- 87 Quinta do Tamariz Loureiro freshness. Imported by Laurel Importers. —R.V. inho and Verdelho with Viognier, here is a rich, (Vinho Verde); $NA. Tight, taut, mineral- intense wine. There is no doubting its weight, driven wine, lively with a light prickle on the Casca Wines 2008 Monte Cascas although it also has fine acidity from its citrus and tongue. This is very fresh, with citrus and grape- 87 Reserva (Minho); $21. Lemon grass, green plum fruits. Age for another year. fruit flavors. Delicious, bone-dry Vinho Verde lime and intensely crisp acidity identify the wine Imported by Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. Imported by T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. as definitely from the cool north of Portugal. A strong apple-skin texture dominates, leaving a Falua 2009 Conde de Vimioso Col- Casca Wines 2009 Cape Roca Fish wine that really needs shellfish type foods. 86 heita Seleccionada Fernão Pires 86 (Vinho Verde); $14. Attractive lemon- Imported by Laurel Importers. —R.V. (Tejo); $9. Soft, peach and pear dominated flavored citrus character with light acidity. This is wine, this has a ripe and rich character, its fla- a classic, creamy wine with a fresh aftertaste. A vors packed with ripe acidity and a tangy texture. drink now wine. Screw cap. Imported by Laurel SPAIN It is full-bodied with good acidity to keep it all Importers. —R.V. fresh. Imported by Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. WHITE WINES Best Buy. —R.V. OTHER WHITE WINES RÍAS BAIXAS

DURIENSE Casca Wines 2008 Monte Cascas Nora 2009 Peitán Albariño (Rías 91 Malvasia (Colares); $68. Wines from 88 Baixas); $15. Just sweet and soft Real Companhia Velha 2008 the windswept vineyards of Colares, where vines enough to temper the wine’s more citric, miner- 91 Quinta de Cidrô Reserva Chardon- are planted almost in the sand, are rare. This ally side. Aromas of green pear and melon are nay (Duriense); $25. A powerful, rich and Malvasia is fascinating, a wine that has perfumes, basic and welcoming, while the snappy, forward creamy wine that has a soft texture, hinting at a touch of spice and kumquat as well as smoky palate is cleansing and fresh. Flavors of green wood aging and attractive spice and yellow fruits. acidity. Much more than a curiosity. Imported by melon, apple, saline and honey scream Rías It fills the mouth easily with ripe fruits, toast and Laurel Importers. —R.V. Baixas. Imported by Aviva Vino. —M.S. rich acidity. Imported by Admiral Imports. —R.V. Casca Wines 2008 Monte Cascas Palacio de Fefiñanes 2009 Albar- Real Companhia Velha 2009 90 Fernão Pires (Ribatejo); $43. Ripe, 87 iño (Rías Baixas); $26. One of the 90 Quinta de Cidrô Alvarinho concentrated, perfumed fruit give this remarkable most cutting, acid-intense Albariños out there. The (Duriense); $NA. A crisp style of Alvarinho, wine both richness and character. It has pear juice, nose in minerally and tight as a drum, with green packed with green fruits, apples and lemon along star fruit and a hint of apricot, made richer by a melon and green apple scents. The palate is razor with richer pink grapefruit. There is an attractive smooth texture. There is plenty of acidity for a sharp and driving, with tangy, high-toned lemon tangy minerality as well, giving a satisfying full-in- fresh finish. Imported by Laurel Importers. —R.V. and Granny Smith apple flavors. Totally citric and the-mouth wine. Imported by Admiral Imports. zesty; it will last another few years. Imported by —R.V. Quinta de Foz de Arouce 2009 Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. 90 Cerceal (Beiras); $30. Aged in wood Real Companhia Velha 2009 (there is no doubt about that from aroma and Señorío de Rubiós 2009 Albariño 86 Quinta de Cidrô Sauvignon Blanc palate), this is potentially a rich, smooth, oily tex- 87 (Rías Baixas); $15. Aromas of pineap- (Duriense); $20. An attractive wine that is tured wine. At the moment, the wood dominates ple, grapefruit, juniper berry and dust are slightly herbaceous, with a hint of citrus and with a richer so give it a year for the fruit to broaden out to sharp but do manage to fold together into a solid texture that also offers fresh pears and cream. A make a rich and delicious wine. Imported by whole. The palate is correct, with green-leaning, good, fresh apéritif. Imported by Admiral Winebow. —R.V. semiherbal flavors of melon, papaya and mango. Imports. —R.V. A good to above-average Albariño that should be Quinta de Santa Maria 2009 drunk right away. Imported by Spanish Vines, 88 Alvarinho (Minho); $NA. With its Inc. —M.S. VINHO VERDE lemon and peach flavors, this is a ripe wine. It still has plenty of acidity, but its main focus is on Vionta 2009 Limited Release Casca Wines 2009 Monte Cascas its smooth texture, just given a light edge by a 87 Albariño (Rías Baixas); $15. Fairly 88 Colheita (Vinho Verde); $14. In a fruit-skin bite. Imported by T. Edward Wines pungent, with apple and lemon aromas that are richer style of Vinho Verde but nevertheless Ltd. —R.V. typical for the variety. The palate has an edge to it retaining plenty of cool, fresh characters. The and jacked-up acidity that pushes citrus and wine has vivid grapefruit, lime and green apple Casca Wines 2009 Cape Roca Fish- pineapple flavors toward tangy. With so much cit- flavors, rounded out attractively. Imported by 87 erman (Lisboa); $11. Brilliantly crisp rus character and acidity, it’s lasting and scour- Laurel Importers. —R.V. lemon-flavored wine with vivid herbaceous char- ing. Imported by Freixenet USA. —M.S.

WineMag.com | 5 5 BUYING I GUIDE

Robalino 2009 Albariño (Rías some pineapple juice and mango sorbet. Wet, 84 Baixas); $17. Blowsy and mustardy, zesty and tropical but only moderately pleasant. OTHER WHITE WINES like it’s starting to turn south. The palate is loud, Imported by Opici Wines. —M.S. jumbled and heavy, with mustardy orange flavors, Paso a Paso 2009 Verdejo (La a touch of flowery honey and then bitterness. Big 88 Mancha); $10. The best Paso a Paso and powerful, but not very poised. Imported by CAVA (SPARKLING) white yet; it’s ripe and smells of pineapple and Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. melon, while the palate is pure and has a solid Llopart 2004 Leopardi Brut Nature feel. Flavors of apple, peach and pithy citrus are honest, and the finish is clean. Delivers what it (Cava); $29. Light, elegant and hinting RIOJA 89 should and more. Imported by Fine Estates from at lemon-lime on the bouquet. The mouth is mel- Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. Marqués de Cáceres 2008 Antea low, complete and not the least bit aggressive, with 88 (Rioja); $12. Marqués de Cáceres peach and melon flavors that turn drier and mildly El Pensador 2009 Verdejo (Vino de intentionally lowered the amount of new oak on pithy on the finish. Well-executed and elegant cava, 86 la Tierra de Castilla y León); $17. A this barrel-fermented Viura, and the result is pos- but simple in its totality because it’s brut nature. solid rendition of Verdejo with apple and pear itive. The nose is smooth and slightly creamy, but Imported by Fine Estates from Spain. —M.S. aromas along with basic minerality. The palate is not oaky or resiny smelling. Composed and bal- standard and firm, with good acidity pushing anced across the tongue, with orange, lime, nec- Pinord NV Marrugat Brut (Cava); apple and citrus flavors. Perfectly competent but tarine and toasty flavors. Quite good for not showing the nuances and higher qualities that $13. Very friendly and clean cava with barrel-fermented white Rioja. Imported by Vine- 88 would justify a $17 outlay. Imported by Winery yard Brands. Best Buy. —M.S. good fruit and a pinch of aromatic toast. It’s far Exchange. —M.S. from out of the ordinary, but it is extremely fresh Finca Allende 2008 Blanco (Rioja); and clean, with pure lemon-lime and green apple Las Valles 2009 Macabeo- 87 $35. Yellow-gold in color, with baked on the palate. Finishes fruity and with finesse. 85 Chardonnay (Cariñena); $12. Trop- fruit, butterscotch, creamed corn and wood resin Really good in an uncomplicated way. Imported ical on the nose, with lychee fruit and tangerine aromas. Forcefully oaked and massive in the by Vinaio Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. aromas. The palate is easygoing and fairly thor- mouth, with enough sporty acidity to prop up the ough, while the flavor profile suggest Argentine woodspice, nutmeg and resiny flavors that ren- Mont Paral NV Brut (Cava); $15. Torrontés as it deals lychee, powdered sugar and der the fruit secondary. Much like chewing on an papaya. Clean, light, quaffable and that’s about 87 Clean and inviting, but simple, with oak plank, structured and layered. Imported by it. Imported by Hand Picked Selections. —M.S. apple and fresh-herb aromas. The palate is prop- Fine Estates from Spain. —M.S. erly crisp yet not sharp, and the flavors of green Bodegas Fontana 2009 Mesta Covila 2009 Blanco Joven (Rioja); apple and white grapes are snappy. Regular and a 85 Macabeo-Moscatel (Uclés); $8. 85 $10. The question is: How scouring and little better than good in every way, but ultimately Zesty on the nose and pulsing with white-fruit razor’s edge do you like it? If you like it sharp but more basic than special. Imported by Vinaio aromas, and that opening is backed by a spritzy, clean, then this is a winner. It’s minerally and Imports. —M.S. lively body that brings lemon-lime and soda-like green in style, with Granny Smith apple and lime flavors. Melony and green on the finish, and good on the palate and finish. Juicy, crisp and bone dry Miquel Pons NV Brut Nature overall in a simple, tropical sort of way. Imported Best Buy. Viura. Imported by Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. 84 (Cava); $18. Grassy on the nose, and by Winebow. —M.S. Best Buy. —M.S. for a brut nature this is decidedly flat in aromas, Volteo 2009 Vino de la Tierra de with ultradry flavors of lime and tangerine along Marqués de Cáceres 2009 Satinela 85 Castilla; $10. Peachy up front, with a 85 Medium Sweet (Rioja); $9. For a with powdery vanilla. Super light on the finish, pithy, dry, diluteness to the nose. The palate is sweet wine, it’s clean, light and airy, with pear which dissipates in no time. Almost tart and lack- wet but a little bland and innocuous, with nec- and powdered sugar on the nose. The flavors are ing in the long run. Imported by Hand Picked tarine, generic citrus and pith flavors. For a blend definitely sweet but the feel isn’t particularly Selections. —M.S. of Viura, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc, it works sticky, and the finishing flavors of candied fruit, well enough. Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sons. vanilla and honeydew are good. Made from late- Segura Viudas NV Aria Estate Best Buy. —M.S. harvest Viura and Malvasia. Imported by Vine- 84 Extra Dry (Cava); $14. Smells oily, yard Brands. Best Buy. —M.S. Bodegas Escorihuela 2009 Fuente stemmy and a bit funky, while the palate is sweet Milano Verdejo (Vino de la Tierra in the extra dry mold, with candied white-fruit, 84 Dinastía Vivanco 2009 Vivanco de Castilla y León); $13. Quiet and shy on 83 Viura-Malvasía (Rioja); $13. A pas- vanilla and powdered sugar flavors. The finish is the nose, with generic white-fruit notes. For a sionfruit-dominated wine without much else warm and sweet, with a fast fade. More candied medium-dry white, it offers requisite sweetness besides a fresh, almost watery palate feel. This is and sweet than fruity or exact. Imported by along with soft fruit notes, candied flavors and a a one-trick pony that’s all passionfruit except for Freixenet USA. —M.S. green, lightly vegetal accent. A bit spritzy but not

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 that lively or precise. Imported by Grapes of and composed. Drink now through 2014. Marqués de Vitoria 2004 Crianza Spain. —M.S. Imported by Fine Estates from Spain. —M.S. 89 (Rioja); $20. Pretty aromatics that include floral notes, light coffee, berry and cherry Vermador 2009 White Wine Made Baigorri 2004 Reserve (Rioja); $32. are just right, and the mouth is juicy and driving, 84 With Organic Grapes (Alicante); 91 Aromas of bold black cherry, leather, with slightly astringent acids that propel straw- $10. Neutral on the nose, and then crisp but bacon and sandalwood scream “modern,” yet its berry, raspberry, vanilla and dill flavors. Smooth bland tasting. There’s apple and green hints of age renders it a bit classical. The palate is mildly on the finish despite the wine’s vital acidity, and fresh bell pepper and lettuce, while the finish woody but the flavors or creamy vanilla, dill and ready to drink with an array of foods. Imported shows lime, citrus pith and mild bitterness. Light balsamic berry fruits are excellent. Toasty and full by Vinaio Imports. —M.S. and basic; made from 50% each of Airen and of coffee and depth on the finish. Drink now Macabeo (Viura). Imported by Scoperta Import- Bodegas Valdemar 2004 Conde de through 2014. Imported by The Portfolio Group. ing Co. Inc. —M.S. Valdemar Gran Reserva (Rioja); —M.S. 88 $20. Raisin and raspberry are the prime fruit aro- Yasa NV Old Vines Macabeo Bodegas Ondarre 2004 Mayor de mas, and there’s smokiness to go with it. Fresh, (Calatayud); $12. Tanning in color, tangy and not too heavy in the mouth, with classic 83 Ondarre Reserva (Rioja); $45. A lit- with stalky, semimealy aromas that lack zap and 91 Rioja flavors of raspberry, pie cherry, herbs and tle tight on the nose, with earthy characteristics as citric crispness. The body is heavy, although spice. Thorough and streamlined, with licorice well as raspberry and plum aromas. The palate is there’s adequate acidity, while the flavors lean and pepper flavors to the finish. Drink now toward mealy citrus and ripe melon. Pithy and juicy and offers good flow, while the flavors of rasp- through 2014. Imported by CIV/USA. —M.S. bitter on the finish, like almond skins. Imported berry and plum are classic and touched up by by Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. vanilla, spice, dill and toastiness. Long on the finish, Marqués de Vitoria 2004 Reserva with tobacco, spice and cocoa. Drink now through 88 (Rioja); $27. More up the ladder from Tres Ojos 2009 Macabeo 2012. Imported by Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. Vitoria’s crianza, but also more raisiny and oaky. 82 (Calatayud); $11. Heavy and mealy on The wine develops nicely with air, shedding raisin the nose, with stalky white-fruit aromas. The Ramirez de la Piscina 2005 for more of the fruit spectrum. Meanwhile, the palate is weighty and sticky, with a cloying feel and 91 Reserva (Rioja); $20. With aromas of oak is strong and obvious, leaving vanilla, toast sweet, baked flavors of apple and honey. Then it moss, balsam wood, baked berry and earth, this is and spice on the finish. Otherwise, it has the turns distinctly bitter and pithy on the finish. Gen- a complex, interesting Rioja that’s overdelivering same flavor profile and acidic kick as the crianza. erally speaking, Calatayud is not white wine coun- for $20. The palate is lush, soft and easy, but also Drink now through 2013. Imported by Vinaio try. Imported by Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. pure and flavorful as the fruit runs deep and Imports. —M.S. meaty. Finishing notes of licorice, dark spice and lasting berry fruit will make you happy you went Campo Viejo 2007 Crianza (Rioja); SPAIN here. Drink now through 2013. Imported by Fine 87 $12. The bouquet of cherry and rasp- Estates from Spain. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. berry is sprightly and mildly leafy, with hints of RED WINES leather and dried cheese. The palate is whispy, Baigorri 2005 Crianza Tempranillo with red-fruit flavors of raspberry and plum along RIOJA with mild herbal notes, cocoa powder and dry 90 (Rioja); $20. A fresh and appealing style of Rioja with aromas of dried cheese, dill, spice. A basic, lighter-bodied Rioja with a tradi- Muga 2005 Selección Especial tional tilt. Imported by Pernod Ricard. Best Buy. cedar, tobacco and kirsch. The palate has a pleas- (Rioja); $43. Smells slightly exotic and —M.S. 92 ing juiciness and layered flavors of cherry, raps- different from the norm; the nose offers baked berry and vanilla. Mocha and coffee flavors black-fruit scents, lemon peel, rubber and East- Marqués de Campo Nuble 2007 accent the well-oaked finish, and overall this is ern spices. Pure and driving on the palate, with Campo Burgo Crianza (Rioja); $13. pure and kicking, but not too hefty or extracted. 87 good acidity and woodsy, complex flavors of Opens with rubber, smoke, leather and coffee Drink now through 2013. Imported by The Port- blackberry, coffee and licorice. Snappy and pure aromas, then the fruit comes in on the palate, on the finish; drink from 2011 through 2016. folio Group. —M.S. which is juicy and correct, with tight, fresh red- Imported by Fine Estates from Spain. —M.S. fruit flavors and notes of ripe tomato and pepper Castillo de Cuzcurrita 2005 flake. Finishes spicy and dry, with a crispness Remírez de Ganuza 2005 Fincas de 89 Señorío de Cuzcurrita (Rioja); $25. that’ll make it 100% food-friendly. Imported by 92 Ganuza Reserva (Rioja); $49. Tight, Stocky and kind of big on the bouquet, with broad, USA Wine West. —M.S. pure and just right from start to finish. The nose fat berry fruit aromas and some jamminess. The offers bold berry, roasted plum, vanilla and spice palate is saturated and jammy, with thick black- Obalo 2009 Rioja; $13. Dark, smoky, aromas along with exceptional clarity, and the berry flavors and roasted fig. Chunky and on the 87 heavily oaked and resiny, with aromas of palate is snappy and pure but also dark and loaded verge of being syrupy, but still really nice in a rich, char, leather and burnt toast. The palate is big with coffee, chocolate, mocha and fine raspberry easy way. Drink now and over the next couple of and forceful, with a lot of oak character and also and cherry flavors. Slightly oaky but smooth late, years. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. snappy blackberry, plum and buttery flavors.

WineMag.com | 5 7 BUYING I GUIDE

Modern and creamy, with enough quality fruit to ries the finish. Pedestrian wine that’s competent. with roasted fig and an extra dose of black fruit back things up. Imported by Aviva Vino. —M.S. Imported by Vinaio Imports. —M.S. on the finish. Drink from 2011–2015. Imported by Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. Bodegas Ondarre 2007 Ursa Bodegas Olarra 2009 Otoñal 86 Maior Crianza (Rioja); $10. Aromas 84 (Rioja); $10. Earthy and mildly medic- Cruz de Alba 2007 Crianza (Ribera of tobacco, mild raisin, dry oak and berries are inal smelling, with a healthy, not too stark palate 88 del Duero); $25. Quite ripe and dark, simple and pleasant, while the palate is light in that’s dealing pointed cherry flavors and some dry with blackberry, raisin and aromas of woody spice weight, a touch dilute but very fresh and easy, oak. It’s a touch sharp and angular, with a dry, manifested as cinnamon. The palate shows a con- with cherry, plum and even some citrus for flavor. peppery finish that’s lean, acid-driven and starch- trolled sharpness and then flavors of saturated Light and transparent on the finish, with barely ing. Imported by Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. berry fruit accented by oak-based notes of vanilla any excess. Imported by Classic Wines, Inc. Best and dill weed. A powerful, deep style of crianza Buy. —M.S. Conde de Jauregui 2009 Vendimia with a lot of oak. Imported by W.J. Deutsch & 82 Seleccionada (Rioja); $9. Smells like Sons. —M.S. Hazaña 2007 Rioja; $16. Rubbery tarmac and tire rubber initially, and it remains 86 and a little gaseous on first pass, with stemmy and staunch even with air. The feel is Bodegas Qumrán 2007 Crianza medicinal berry emerging later on the nose. The dilute yet edgy, and the flavors suggest generic 83 (Ribera del Duero); $NA. Sweet and palate is structured and reasonably good, with red berry and a dash of spice. Fades quickly on funky smelling, with a weird set of aromas that cherry and raspberry flavors that are fresh, lightly the finish, which is probably a good thing. suggest Middle Eastern spice and hard-to-gauge extracted and well spiced. Finishes with just a Imported by Vinaio Imports. —M.S. fruit. The palate feel is barely acceptable, while hint of creaminess. Imported by Hand Picked the flavors are jumbled and overtly spicy and Selections. —M.S. Rioja Vega 2009 Rioja; $9. Candied strange. Maybe it’s the oak? Or maybe it’s just not cherry and raspberry aromas are any- 82 very good wine. Imported by Bodegas Qumrán. Bodegas Ondarre 2009 Ursa thing but complex or serious, while the palate is —M.S. 85 Maior (Rioja); $10. A simple and lean, sheering, crisp and more tart than flavorful. snappy style of Rioja with just enough weight and Scouring on the finish, and not really offering Zumaya 2007 Crianza (Ribera del ripeness along with light berry aromas. The much of anything. —M.S. Duero); $22. Based on experience, palate is perky and fresh, with young, medicinal, 83 Zumaya’s wines just aren’t at the high level that semisharp flavors of cherry and plum. More than Valdelana 2009 Juan de Valdelana Ribera del Duero is known for. This is herbal and competent, with verve and acidic scour. Imported (Rioja); $11. Smells strange, with a mix 81 foxy, with roasted, leafy aromas leading to an by Classic Wines, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. of unknown spice and odd fruit aromas. The underwhelming palate of tomato, stewed red palate is snappy and sharp, with light fruit and fruit and vanilla. Saucy on the finish, and ulti- Ilurce 2009 Solnia (Rioja); $10. oaky, resiny flavors that leave a lasting, confound- mately okay but not up to par. Imported by Axial Earthy and rubbery on the nose, and ing aftertaste. Rather pointless given all the good 85 Wines USA. —M.S. rather dark for a $10 Rioja. The palate is jammy value-priced wines on the market. Imported by and solid, with berry flavors, a hint of toast and Global Wines and Foods, Inc. —M.S. heat. The finish is somewhat burning, but overall it’s a legit blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha TORO that fits the “value” mold. Imported by Fine RIBERA DEL DUERO Teso La Monja 2008 Almirez Estates from Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. Dominio de Atauta 2007 Ribera 89 (Toro); $30. Not on a par with the inau- Viña Los Valles 2007 Crianza 91 del Duero; $32. Meaty, earthy and gural 2007, but for a rough year this wine brings 85 Made With Organic Grapes dark, with a powerful consitution along with briar about as much as it can. The nose is woody, deep, (Rioja); $19. Tomato, savory spice and earthy, and sharpness. In the mouth, it’s a touchy cus- balsamic and herbal, while the body is thick and mildly stewed red-fruit aromas lead to a crisp tomer with biting tannins, but as it unfolds you saturated, with roasted berry, coffee and bitter palate with firm acids and flavors of tomato, rasp- get a dark palate of black fruit, coffee, chocolate chocolate flavors. The finish lacks length and berry, herbs, vanilla and dried cheese. Lasting and spice. Big in flavor but not as complete or character, but it has heft and feel. A commend- but light on the finish. Contains 30% Gracianio, lush as in the past, which is a reflection of the able effort for a poor vintage. Imported by Fine which helps explain the sheer, red-fruit character. vintage. Drink now through 2016. Imported by Estates from Spain. —M.S. Imported by Grapes of Spain. —M.S. Aviva Vino. —M.S. Maurodos 2008 Prima (Toro); $24. Baron de Escal 2009 Tempranillo, Pico Cuadro 2007 Ribera del 88 Opens with mossy aromas that are soon 84 Garnacha, Mazuelo (Rioja); $10. 91 Duero; $38. Very pretty aromatics of replaced by foresty oak and murky black-fruit Dry, minty and spicy, with cool, lightweight berry blackberry, vanilla, tobacco, spice and coffee notes. The palate has enough thickness and con- and cola aromas. The palate is fairly light and draw you in. The palate is lush and deep, with centration to register as true Toro, while the fla- easy, with lean red-fruit flavors, dry spice and a black fruit, cola and integrated spice flavors. Con- vors of berry fruit, herbs and spice cover the creamy tasting accent. Spice more than fruit car- centrated and smooth, and already approachable bases. Oaky and lightly tannic on the finish, and

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 just beefy and chewy enough. Imported by reveals a robust and stirring bouquet of plum Savory and rooty on the finish. A good restaurant Grapes of Spain. —M.S. and berry aromas mixed with coffee and leather. wine, either by the glass or bottle. Imported by The palate is pure and deep, with a lush set of Grapes of Spain. —M.S. Campiña 2008 Toro; $18. Fiery to blackberry, ripe plum and berry syrup flavors. 87 start, with spice and herbal fruit aromas. Shows a fine structure, a long and warm finish, Bodegas Adriá 2008 Val Montium The palate is juicy, lively and healthy in feel, with and the potential to age another 5–8 years. 87 (Bierzo); $9. A bit mulchy but also dis- berry, plum and spice flavors. Finishes herbal and Imported by Fine Estates from Spain. Cellar playing power and quality for an under-$10 wine. a little leafy, and there’s not as much stuffing as Selection. —M.S. The nose is initially murky but evolves toward you’d expect for a Toro red. On the plus side, it’s sweet, simple berry fruit. Meanwhile, the palate manageable and not overweight. Imported by Francesc Sanchez Bas 2004 Mont- is ripe, bouncy, lively and solid, with cherry, plum Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. 88 garnatx (Priorat); $45. A little rusty and chocolaty flavors. Slightly big and rubbery in color and somewhat transparent, with raisin as but convincing as a whole. Imported by RV Dis- Elias Mora 2008 Toro; $28. Dark the key aroma. There’s not a lot going on in the tributors. Best Buy. —M.S. 86 and rubbery on the nose, but also lightly mouth, but the wine is mellow and deep, with leafy and herbal, with oak and coffee for cover sweet flavors of molasses, berry syrup and baked Dominio de Tares 2007 Baltos up. The palate is good but slightly rough and nar- black fruits. Rich and candied, but rather sweet 87 (Bierzo); $17. Beefy, stocky aromas row, and the flavors are not as deep and devel- and a touch dull for Priorat. Drink now. Imported also bring herb, tomato and berry notes. The oped as they have been in the past. Plum, berry by Winebow. —M.S. palate is jumpy and slightly medicinal, with cur- and herbal flavors are good but lead to a short, rant, tomato, herb and plum flavors running the modest finish. Vintage 2008 was not a good one, Heredad Soliterra 2006 (Priorat); show. Medium in size, with level tannins and a and this wine reflects that. Imported by Grapes 88 $20. Raisin and other sweet, soft aromas juicy, good overall feel to it. Imported by Opici of Spain. —M.S. are friendly but don’t really bring it. The palate Wines. —M.S. follows suit; it’s chubby and jammy, with sweet Bodegas Farina 2008 Dama de berry flavors, a touch of raisin and a roasted, can- Abad 2008 Gotín del Risc (Bierzo); 85 Toro (Toro); $13. Mildy green tobacco died finish. Very nice and true to the region, 85 $14. Opens with burnt, rubbery aromas aromas lead the way along with forest floor, fern albeit on the soft and easy side. Imported by that eventually cede to asphalt, roasted peanut notes and standard berry aromas. The palate Vinaio Imports. —M.S. and leather. The palate is soft and a bit hollow in opens with forceful acidity, while the flavors are a the middle, with earthy, rubbery flavors of black bit underdeveloped as they lean toward black- Genium Celler 2006 Ecològic (Prio- plum and berry. Finishes with cola, bitter coffee berry. Mild bitterness is also part of the picture as 87 rat); $41. Slightly fiery and hot on the and root beer flavors. Decent and full overall, but the wine flattens out on the back side. Imported nose, but there’s enough berry, cherry and dusty rubbery. Imported by Table 31 Imports. —M.S. by Specialty Cellars. —M.S. leather to keep it positive. The palate is more sheer and sharp than expected, with piercing Vega Murillo 2008 Toro; $13. raspberry, razor’s edge acidity and only a touch of JUMILLA 80 Roasted, herbal and blunt, with an acrid back-end sweetness. Juicy but short and searing. stemminess. The palate lacks ripeness and ele- Imported by Grapes of Spain. —M.S. Bodegas Luzon 2009 Luzon gance as it delivers burnt, leafy, herbal flavors. 87 (Jumilla); $9. Another fine Best Buy Underwhelming. Imported by Vinaio Imports. from a winery that knocks 'em out year after year. —M.S. BIERZO This Monastrell-Syrah blend delivers full, rustic aromas of tomato, baked berry and salsa. The Abad Dom Bueno 2007 Roble palate is saucy and smooth, with blackberry fla- PRIORAT 89 (Bierzo); $18. Big and forceful, with vors mixed with herbs and tomato. Textured, dark, penetrating aromas of oak, cedar, stocky healthy, snappy and a good partner for full- Joan Simó 2006 Les Eres Vinyes blackberry and spice. The palate is pure and flavored foods. Imported by Aviva Vino. Best 93 Velles (Priorat); $66. Pungent up deep, with savory plum, berry, herb, vanilla and Buy. —M.S. front, with dry bayberry, leather, jam notes and tea flavors. Finishes smooth and classy, with a dry, schisty minerality. The palate is all about struc- clean ending. Gets it right; a very good Bierzo Bodegas Luzon 2009 Luzon Verde ture, snappy acids, sinewy tannins and lively, full- red for under $20. Imported by Frontier Wine 87 Organic Grapes (Jumilla); $9. Satis- force red-fruit and plum flavors. Like in the past, Imports. —M.S. fying from the purple color to the sweet bouquet this is a top-notch Priorato that holds its form to the clean palate to the long finish. It’s a little through the acid-driven finish. Best from Luna Beberide 2008 Finca La simple and syrupy, but overall there’s plenty of 2011–2015. Imported by Fine Estates from 88 Cuesta (Bierzo); $22. Big, chunky freshening acidity and flavors of plum, berry and Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S. and dark on the nose, but smells monotone chocolate to make it a complete and balanced except for a floral hint. The palate shows nice wine. And that’s really all you should hope for in Joan Simó 2006 Sentius (Priorat); body, saturation and grabby tannins to go with this price category. Imported by Aviva Vino. Best 92 $33. A little heavy at first, but airing oak-infused flavors of black plum, cola and spice. Buy. —M.S.

WineMag.com | 5 9 BUYING I GUIDE

Bodegas Tarima 2009 Monastrell tomato and finally secondary red fruit. The palate 87 (Jumilla); $8. Rubbery and roasted, but is saturated but hard, with herbal, leafy, dry red- CAMPO DE BORJA not too much so. Otherwise one should look for fruit flavors and a backing of cured meat. Herbal medicinal berry aromas followed by flavors of late, with some old-school cherry and tobacco. A Bodegas Aragonesas 2008 Don baked plum, prune and black pepper. The finish tough wine, but at least it’s something different. 86 Ramón (Campo de Borja); $8. is dense, a touch flat, and chocolaty; overall this is Imported by The Artisan Collection. —M.S. Spiced berry aromas are dense and suggest raisin, a chunky, sweet performer. Imported by Fine but overall this is a clean, inexpensive blend of Estates from Spain. —M.S. Pricum 2007 Valdemuz (Tierra de Garnacha and Tempranillo that is satisfying and 85 León); $80. Medicinal, sweet and short highly competent. Flavors run smoky, rubbery Wrongo Dongo 2009 Jumilla; $8. on complexity for a wine of this price. The palate and dark, but not baked or too heavy. Toasty and 86 Basic and a little sweet and confected, has a choppy, rough feel and then comes an roasty on the finish, too. Imported by Scoperta but consider the price and you should be smiling. onslaught of medicinal berry flavor that leads to a Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. There’s some bramble and pepper to the nose, tight, biting finish that’s big on acid and low on but mostly it’s just ripe and full of blackberry and depth of flavor and intracacies you might expect El Pensador 2008 Campo de Borja; black plum character. Candied and almost cloy- for $80. More of a novelty wine; 160 cases made. 86 $17. Raisin, black plum and peppery ing, but remains flush and happy. Good in the Imported by Grapes of Spain. —M.S. aromas make for a good bouquet, and the palate midlevel category. Imported by Fine Estates is healthy and dark, with snappy black cherry and from Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. Pricum 2007 Paraje de El Santo blackberry flavors floating on a current of zesty 84 (Tierra de León); $69. Lemony and acidity. Full on the finish, but still there’s some Caracol Serrano 2009 (Jumilla); citrusy from the get-go, with floral notes to the acidic scour. Best with food. Imported by Winery 85 $10. Slightly minty and grassy on the nose. The palate is sheering and tart, with edgy Exchange. —M.S. nose, and that mild green character persists. The tannins. As a whole, it’s angular, with tomato and palate is a bit clacky and acidic, yet the flavors red-fruit flavors. A natural, jacked-up example of evolve and ultimately rest at candied and medic- Prieto Picudo that’s a bit underwhelming. SWEET WINES inal. A touch biting but it tastes pretty good and Imported by Grapes of Spain. —M.S. it’s decidedly not sour. A blend of 55% Monastrell Agricola Falset-Marca 2005 Ètim with 25% Cabernet Savuignon and 20% Syrah. 92 Verema Sobremadurada Old Imported by Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. NAVARRA Vines Late Harvest (Montsant); $28/375 ml. With spice, raisin and driving dark-fruit aro- Vega Sindoa 2009 Tempranillo mas, this sweetie is lifted and enticing on the TIERRA DE LEÓN 86 (Navarra); $8. Slightly rubbery on first bouquet. Big, rowdy and complex in the mouth, impression, but cleaner and better as it opens up. with layered cherry, cough drop and kirsch fla- Gordonzello 2006 Peregrino Cri- Zesty and full of acidic punch, with juicy black vors. Very pure late, with coffee, chocolate and 87 anza (Tierra de León); $20. Leafy, cherry and plum flavors. Registers as healthy and even more spice to the finish. Shows good fruit, roasted and herbal up front, with modest ripe- ripe, with a spot of medicinality. Quite good for acids, heft and overall balance. Delicious and fruit aromas sitting below. The palate smacks the price. Imported by Fine Estates from Spain. highly recommended. Imported by North Amer- down hard with tannin and acidity, while the fla- Best Buy. —M.S. ican Beverage Group. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. vors are leafy, herbal and suggest raspberry and cherry. Prieto Picudo is a unique grape with a Ochoa 2008 Garnacha-Tempranillo Costers del Siurana 2006 Dolç de natural rubbery bite, but give Peregrino credit 85 (Navarra); $12. Hefty and rubbery on 90 l’Obac (Priorat); $128/500 ml. for presenting it well. Imported by The Artisan the bouquet, with black-fruit aromas and some Intriguing but expensive sweet wine, with Collection. —M.S. dustiness. The palate is fresh feeling, with full leather and dried cheese aromas as well as dusty, acidity and a mildly stretched set of lively berry rubbery black fruits and licorice. It’s not that Pricum 2007 Tierra de León; $55. and roasted flavors. Comes up a bit short and hol- unusual or exciting in terms of mouthfeel, but 87 This “basic” Tierra de León wine made low on the finish, but good all totaled. Imported the flavors of cassis liqueur, stewed cherry and from the obscure Prieto Picudo grape outshines by Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. black licorice are tight and powerful. Structured Pricum’s higher-priced bottlings. It has a leathery to last another decade, with meaty tannins and nose with mild baked-berry flavors, while the Azul y Garanza 2008 Abril de Azul molasses on the finish. Imported by Fine Estates palate is tight but not astringent. Flavors of 83 y Garanza Tempranillo-Cabernet from Spain. —M.S. toamto, red currant, raspberry and herbs are Sauvignon (Navarra); $12. Roasted, rubbery snappy, and overall it’s textured and long in the primary aromas turn herbal, while the palate is Bodegas Silvano Garcia 2008 mouth. Imported by Grapes of Spain. —M.S. classic Navarran in that it’s tomatoey, with herbal 89 Dulce (Jumilla); $25/500 ml. There cherry flavors and a leafy juniper character. Sim- are few points of reference for this hugely intense Gordonzello 2007 Peregrino Roble ple and short late, with a slightly sour, herbal fin- sweet Monastrell. It’s deep and purple, with con- 86 (Tierra de León); $19. Opens with ish. Imported by Fine Estates from Spain. centrated, fresh raisin aromas, licorice and berry aromas of burnt leaves, roasted bell pepper and —M.S. syrup. Entirely rich and unctuous, with caramel,

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 toffee and reduced berry flavors. Like P.X. but great extract, with masses of squashed, gooey smoky oak. Should hold in the bottle for 4–5 red; serve with chocolate and/or a smooth, potent cherries, raspberries and oodles of spices. Feels years. —S.H. cheese. Imported by Grapes of Spain. —M.S. opulent and dramatic, with smoky oak adding to the complex, almost feral layers. So much going J Vineyards & Winery 2008 Barrel Agricola Falset-Marca 2007 Ètim on in the glass. Just gorgeous now, and should 93 16 Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- 88 Varema Tardana Negre (Montsant); hold and develop over the next 4–5 years. —S.H. ley); $50. This is a barrel selection from J’s var- $27/500 ml. Not a lot of glaring aromas of a ious vineyards throughout the valley. It’s drier, sweet wine here; in fact, it’s showing fresh Laetitia 2008 Reserve du Domaine leaner and tarter than many other local bottlings, tomato, cherry and more dryness on the nose 94 Pinot Noir (Arroyo Grande Valley); meaning the wine has an elegance that makes it than candy or syrup. The palate is tight and a lit- $40. Brilliant and delicious. Shows the elegant enormously food friendly. Shows a lovely com- tle clipped, with sweet cassis and reduced black dryness of a superior Arroyo Grande Pinot, with plex of raspberry and cherry tart and blueberry plum flavors. Short on the finish, but good and massively ripe and complex flavors of black and pie flavors, with the smoky, buttery crust. Drink grabby overall. Imported by North American red cherry pie, raspberry and strawberry jam, now–2014. —S.H. Beverage Group. —M.S. beef jerky, cola and smoky oak. Wonderful and glamorous and fun, yet serious. Bring on the ahi Mount Eden 2008 Estate Bottled tuna tartare. —S.H. 93 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Moun- CALIFORNIA tains); $55. A brilliant Pinot Noir, dry and enor- Saudade 2008 Split Rock Vineyard mously concentrated in mountain cherries, RED WINES 94 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $43. raspberries, strawberries and sweet oak. Com- Enormously rich and powerful, showing tremen- pletely delicious now, but with the acidity, miner- PINOT NOIR dous authority. Oozes ripe, candied raspberry, ality and balance to evolve over the next six years, at least. —S.H. cherry, sweet cola, licorice, pie spice and sandal- Williams Selyem 2008 Litton wood flavors, wrapped into ripe, fine tannins. Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russ- Samsara 2008 Melville Vineyard 98 Feels really toned, sculpted, with a long, dry, ian River Valley); $100. This is the best of Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $46. spicy finish. Drink now through 2014. —S.H. 93 the winery’s new releases, both for drinking now One sniff of this terrific Pinot Noir, and your and for cellaring. Combines power and elegance, Williams Selyem 2008 Precious brain knows it’s the good stuff. From the ruby with upscale flavors of cherries, currants, cola, color to the fresh, jammy plum, cherry, cola and Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir rhubarbs, dried herbs and oak, wrapped into 94 beef jerky flavors, it’s just a terrific wine. Enor- (Sonoma Coast); $90. Tough, acidic and tight devastatingly rich tannins and a perfect touch of mously complex and velvety in the mouth, it in youth, offering little in the way of richness. So acidity. Should age well for 10 years. Cellar should improve over the next four years. —S.H. tart, so minerally, so dry. A wine that demands Selection. —S.H. time in the cellar. Should reward the patient after Sobriquet Winery 2009 Pinot Noir six years or so, to allow things to resolve so the Williams Selyem 2008 Hirsch Vine- (Santa Maria Valley); $48. A daz- cherry, cranberry and rhubarb flavors can trans- 93 97 yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); zlingly good Pinot that shows fresh, delicious fla- $72. Dazzles with richness, offering waves of mogrify. It would not be surprising for this wine vors right out of the bottle. Floods the mouth candied, tart raspberry and cherry fruit, Dr. Pep- to develop bottle nuance for well more than a with raspberries, cherries and spicy red licorice, per, exotic Indian spice, rose petal and sandal- decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H. beautifully married with sweet, buttery oak. Irre- wood flavors, as well as undefinable feral things. sistably good, and made to drink now with a Absolutely dry and high in acidity, with over- J Vineyards & Winery 2008 char-broiled steak. —S.H. whelming complexity, it’s a milestone. Drink now 93 Nicole’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russ- through 2014; could go way beyond. —S.H. ian River Valley); $50. Here’s a luscious, deli- Williams Selyem 2008 Ferrington cious Pinot Noir for drinking now. It’s made in 93 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Williams Selyem 2008 Allen Vine- the modern style of soft ripeness, and features Valley); $62. Awkward now, with all the compo- 96 yard Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- upfront cherry, cranberry, sweet fig and sandal- nents apart. Lots of oak here, ripe jammy fruit ley); $78. A joy to drink now, and will develop wood flavors, with a tangy dusting of Indian there, acidity kicking in midpalate, tannins lock- over a decade or more. A dry, pure, focused wine spices. The acidity and tannins are near perfect. ing down the finish. A very fine wine, rich, exotic whose intricately detailed cherry, cola and cran- Drink now–2016. —S.H. and masculine, with a spine of steel, but it needs berry flavors are enhanced by minerally things time. Best after 2013. Cellar Selection. —S.H. from the earth and a near-perfect application of J Vineyards & Winery 2008 Robert oak. Changes by the second in the glass, ever fas- 93 Thomas Vineyard Pinot Noir Williams Selyem 2008 Peay Vine- cinating. Cellar Selection. —S.H. (Russian River Valley); $50. One of the most 93 yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); instantly delicious Pinots of the vintage. Comes $56. Shows the exotic power of the vineyard, Melville 2009 Carrie’s Pinot Noir from the northern, warmer part of the valley, and with wild cherry, raspberry, cola and spice flavors, 95 (Sta. Rita Hills); $46. Extraordinarily shows perfectly ripe fruit flavors of cherries, cran- and the crisp acidity of the far Sonoma Coast. But rich and ripe, if a little high in alcohol. Shows berries and Dr. Pepper, made richer with sweet not one you want to drink now. It’s tight, dry, min-

WineMag.com | 6 1 BUYING I GUIDE erally, aloof. Needs time. Definitely a wine to cel- glass. So clean, crisp, elegant, the real deal. Cool- Dierberg 2007 Estate Pinot Noir lar until at least 2014. Cellar Selection. —S.H. climate Pinot at it most succulent. Brims with 90 (Santa Maria Valley); $40. Very dry raspberry, cherry and tart cranberry fruit, with and tannic, showing the freshly-crushed Asian Williams Selyem 2008 Weir Vine- notes of sweet sandalwood, white pepper and spices of the Santa Maria Valley. Full-bodied and 93 yard Pinot Noir (Yorkville High- dusty pie spices, like cinnamon and clove. Won- a little heavy at this point, offering ripe raspberry, lands); $56. A great Weir from Williams derful now and for the next few years. Editors’ cherry, currant and anise flavors. Give it a few Selyem, showing a complex balance on the warm- Choice. —S.H. years to mellow. —S.H. cool-climate spectrum. It’s very ripe in blackber- ries and cherries, but crisp in acidity, firm in Sea Smoke 2008 Southing Pinot J Vineyards & Winery 2008 Pinot tannins, and totally dry. Balanced and delicious 92 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $52. A big, 90 Noir (Sonoma Coast); $50. Defines but young, this wine will benefit from six years in extracted and somewhat ponderous Pinot Noir. a coastal style of ripe full bodiedness and bold a proper cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Could be Grenache, such is the weight. But it’s fruit, although there’s a certain generic quality. very good and delicious and dry, with raspberry Offers masses of cherry and blueberry pie, root Williams Selyem 2008 Eastside and cherry flavors, and lots of smoky oak. Give it beer, orange zest, red licorice and pie spices, with 93 Road Neighbors Pinot Noir (Russ- 4–6 years in the bottle. —S.H. a lovely overlay of sweet, smoky oak. Yet could ian River Valley); $49. Not quite as concen- offer a little more individuality and identity. trated as the winery’s single-vineyard bottlings, Williams Selyem 2008 Vista Verde Drink now. —S.H. but nearly so, and showing the signature dryness, 92 Vineyard Pinot Noir (San Benito acidity and overall classy mouthfeel. Beautiful County); $54. One of the best Vista Verde La Rochelle 2008 Sleepy Hollow and complex, with raspberry, cherry, pomegran- Pinots ever from Williams Selyem. Ripe and deli- 90 Vineyard Block A Pinot Noir ate, rhubarb, rose petal and cola flavors that are- cious, with cherry, raspberry and sandalwood fla- (Santa Lucia Highlands); $48. A big, muscu- varietally correct. Drink now–2014. —S.H. vors, and a tang of minerals and flowers that lar Pinot, in the manner of this vineyard. It’s dry come from the vineyard. Feels a little awkward but sweetly rich and dense in cherries, black Williams Selyem 2008 Bucher now, so give it 5–6 years in the cellar. Cellar raspberries, mulberries, cola and cedar, with thick 93 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Selection. —S.H. tannins. The silky texture and bright acidity make Valley); $54. The acidity and dryness on this it drinkable now, yet it should develop in the bot- Pinot stand out. It’s not a blockbuster, but keeps Melville 2009 Donna’s Pinot Noir tle over the next six years. —S.H. its exuberance under tight control, offering tanta- 91 (Sta. Rita Hills); $36. Nice, smooth lizing cherries, currants, cola and Indian spices, and dry, a small-production bottling of great Sea Smoke 2008 Ten Pinot Noir wrapped in a cloak of minerals. Very elegant, charm. But needs time to resolve certain difficul- 90 (Sta. Rita Hills); $80. A little heavy detailed and silky. Lovely now, with a good ties. Tasted in the summer of 2010, it was young and dense now. Not showing well for its dry tan- decant, and should develop complexity over the and closed down, unyielding. But the lush tex- nins. Almost rustic, with sour candy raspberry, next 10 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. ture and generous core of mooshu plum sauce, cherry, cranberry and cola flavors weighted with blackberries, licorice, pepper and sandalwood tart astringency. Could surprise. Try after 2013. Cumbre of Vine Hill 2007 Raffaelli seems just waiting to bust out. Best mid-2011 and —S.H. 92 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz for a couple years afterward. —S.H. Mountains); $59. A very rich and intricate Siduri 2009 Pisoni Vineyard Pinot Pinot Noir, full-bodied and fairly tannic, yet with Rodney Strong 2009 Estate Vine- 90 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands); $55. a delicately silky texture. Shows fully-ripened 91 yards Pinot Noir (Russian River A pity this wine was released so young. It’s not fruit flavors of cherries and raspberries, with Valley); $20. Made in a leaner, drier, lighter showing well now, tasting like a simple fruit spice and oak complexities. Good now, but could style than most Russian River Pinots, but the ele- bomb, with cherry and raspberry jam flavors and blossom after 2012–2013. —S.H. gance and complexity are very attractive. Shows a lots of sweet, caramelized oak. But the tannin- white pepper and herbal note to the sour cherry acid balanced is very good. Should be better in a Cumbre of Vine Hill 2007 Hicks candy fruit, and is balanced with perfect acidity. year or two. —S.H. 92 Family Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa A beautiful wine to accompany, not overwhelm, Cruz Mountains); $59. This has been the win- fine foods. Production was an astounding 109,000 Wente 2007 Reliz Creek Pinot Noir ery’s best Pinot Noir, and it shows its superiority cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 90 (Arroyo Seco); $25. Few Pinots at once again in the richness and excellent struc- this price are this nice to drink so soon. The wine ture. Appeals immediately for intricate raspberry, Siduri 2009 Sierra Mar Vineyard is dry and elegant, crisp and silky, offering deep cherry, mineral and sandalwood flavors, then fur- 91 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High- flavors of cherries, raspberries, cola, cinnamon ther inspires for the complex tannin and acid lands); $48. Unbelievably rich, almost over the spice and sweet, smoky oak. —S.H. interplay. These mountain Pinots age well. Drink top, with ultraripe cherry, blackberry and rasp- now–2015. —S.H. berry flavors and a caramelized brown sugar, pie- Mueller 2008 Emily’s Cuvée Pinot filling opulence. Saved at the last minute from 89 Noir (Russian River Valley); $44. A Melville 2009 Estate Pinot Noir simple fruit bombiness by thick, gentle tannins delicious Pinot Noir. Few wines in the world are 92 (Sta. Rita Hills); $32. Just sings in the and just in time acidity. Drink now. —S.H. as rich as this in fruit. Just dazzles with an explo-

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 sion of raspberries and cherries, so sweet and beef jerky flavors. Best opened soon for fresh- Pretty and polished, an elegant, lighter style Pinot refined, sprinkled with cinnamon, brown sugar ness. —S.H. Noir to drink now with rich pork, lamb and beef and white pepper. Nothing complicated, but easy dishes or grilled salmon. It’s silky and satiny, with to drink now. —S.H. Foley 2008 Bar Lazy S Pinot Noir pleasant wild strawberry, cherry, red currant, 88 (Sta. Rita Hills); $55. Made in a very licorice, cola and cedar flavors. —S.H. Perception 2007 Orsi Vineyard big, heavy and ripe style, this Pinot Noir offers 89 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); waves of grilled blackberry, cherry, raspberry and Miro 2009 Windsor Oak Vineyard $65. From a vineyard right in the middle of the cola flavors, with sweet, smoky influences from 87 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); valley comes this dry, smooth Pinot Noir. It’s oak barrels. It’s delicious, but lacks delicacy and $28. A softly delicious Pinot made for drinking front-loaded with raspberry, cherry and straw- subtlety. Drink now. —S.H. now with upscale fare. It’s pale in color and dry, berry flavors, enriched with new oak and struc- with very rich flavors of Dr. Pepper, raspberry tured with firm tannins. Yet the mouthfeel is silky James Family Cellars 2008 Stony jam and sweet smoky oak, folded into a silky tex- and light. Drink now and through 2013. —S.H. 88 Point Vineyard Pinot Noir ture. —S.H. (Sonoma Coast); $35. Fairly pale in color, this Saudade 2008 La Encantada Vine- Pinot Noir is made in a lighter, drier, more ele- Mueller 2008 Pinot Noir (Russian 89 yard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); gant style than many. It’s crisp in acids, with the 87 River Valley); $29. This is a fine, sup- $43. Tough, dry and gritty in tannins and acids, a flavors of sweet cherry pie, cola, tangerine peel, ple Pinot Noir for drinking now. It shows authen- young, fresh wine with jammy raspberry, cherry, cinnamon, anise and sandalwood. Grows increas- tic Russian River fanciness in the smooth tannins, buttered oak and spice flavors. Tastes a bit direct, ingly complex as it warms in the glass, changing good acidity and complex cherry, cola, pomegran- like a fruit cola drink. But there’s an elegant by the minute. A fascinating wine that should ate and persimmon flavors, touched with sweet purity and inherent finesse that suggest this Pinot evolve over the next five years. —S.H. smoky oak. —S.H. Noir might do interesting things over the next six Perception 2007 Pinot Noir (Russ- years. Could improve dramatically. —S.H. Scott Family 2008 Pinot Noir ian River Valley); $53. A lovely, dry, 88 (Arroyo Seco); $39. This is a fresh, Siduri 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma complex Pinot Noir to drink now and over the 87 lively Pinot Noir for drinking now. It’s elegantly County); $19. One of the best values next several years with a great steak, lamb chop 89 silky and dry, with crisp acids and pure flavors of on the market now. Totally delicious in raspber- or roasted salmon. It’s silky and smooth, with cherries, cola, spices and oak. A touch of oak adds ries, cherries and pie spices, and so silky. Lovely waves of cherries, raspberries, currants and cola, smoky richness. —S.H. tannins, crisp acidity, everything about it is like- wrapped into silky tannins. —S.H. able. What a great by-the-glass wine for restau- Sebastiani 2008 Pinot Noir (Russ- rants. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Sebastiani 2008 Pinot Noir ian River Valley); $26. Soft, silky and (Carneros); $26. A very pretty and pol- 87 88 rich, this Pinot combines a drink-me-now style Vine Hill 2008 Sea Change Pinot ished Pinot Noir, soft, silky and delicious, and with coastal elegance. It’s tasty in raspberry and Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains); $39. lovely for drinking now. It shows raspberry, 89 cherry jam, blueberry, vanilla granola and toasty A very good Pinot Noir, bone dry and full-bodied, cherry, vanilla and cinnamon flavors, with a kiss with a clean mouthfeel and a long, spicy finish. of rose petal. —S.H. oak flavors. —S.H. It’s tannic, giving an astringent bite to the cherry, Valley of the Moon 2009 Pinot cola, mushroom, tobacco and balsam flavors. Williams Selyem 2008 Flax Vine- Noir (Carneros); $20. Give it a year or two to mellow. —S.H. 88 yard Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- 87 Made in a ley); $56. This complicated, soft Pinot Noir is lighter, more accessible and candied style, this Williams Selyem 2008 Rochioli very rich in cherry, red currant, cola, licorice and Pinot has pleasant cherry, raspberry, cinnamon 89 Riverblock Pinot Noir (Russian spice flavors, but it’s a little heavy. It shows the sugar and sandalwood flavors. Easy to find, with River Valley); $78. Among the heavier, softer Williams-Selyem fingerprint of impeccable grow- 5,000 cases produced. —S.H. and more extracted of the winery’s fall offerings. ing and winemaking technique, but it’s hard to It shows the ripeness and full-bodied richness of tell where it’s going. —S.H. Vine Hill 2008 Pinot Noir (Santa the block, with powerful cherry, pomegranate, 87 Cruz Mountains); $30. A bit tart, cola and spice flavors, and is very dry and classi- Castle Rock 2009 Pinot Noir (Mon- with a bite that comes from irregular tannins and cally proportioned. But it’s not the greatest 87 terey County); $13. A lighter style zesty acidity. Yet it’s dry and elegantly silky, with Riverblock ever. Drink now–2015. —S.H. Pinot made to drink now, and the price makes it a good cherry, berry, cola and spice flavors. Give it good value. It’s elegant and silky, with nice rasp- a good decant. —S.H. Foley 2008 Barrel Select Pinot Noir berry, cola and cherry flavors. Production was 88 (Sta. Rita Hills); $60. A big Pinot 50,000 cases, making it easy to find. Editors’ Westwood 2007 Annadel Estate Noir; it’s a little heavy for the variety, with the Choice. —S.H. 87 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Val- weight of a Rhône, but no denying the delicious- ley); $45. A bit heavy for a Pinot Noir, lacking ness factor. Floods the mouth with concentrated J Vineyards & Winery 2008 Pinot the lively zest the grape needs in California to pie-filling black cherry, red currant, licorice and 87 Noir (Russian River Valley); $35. balance the ripe fruit. Flavors range through

WineMag.com | 6 3 BUYING I GUIDE blackberries and plums, with oak complications. Cartograph 2008 Split Rock Vine- the mouth with blackberry, black currant, cassis Quite good, but doesn’t seem like an ager. —S.H. 85 yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); and new oak flavors. The tannins and acids make $38. The blast of late August and early Septem- it aloof, resistant, tough. It wants time in the cel- Williams Selyem 2008 Coastlands ber heat seems to have victimized this wine. It lar. Best after 2013. Production was a hefty 87 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma has a raisiny sharp imbalance, and although it’s 13,500 cases. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Coast); $72. Rather heavy in texture, a big, full- very dry and silky, does not rise to the level of a bodied and tannic Pinot that seems overly great Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. —S.H. Kuleto Estate 2006 Villa Vista extracted and oaky. The vintage was very difficult 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- due to early September heat waves, and every- Verve 2008 Laetitia Vineyard ley); $80. A thoroughly good Cabernet that rep- Pinot Noir (Arroyo Grande Valley); thing depended on exquisite timing. It’s very 85 resents a welcome return to form after a $33. Heavy, soft and dense, like melted black good, despite the rusticity. Drink now through disappointing period for the winery in the mid- cherry and raspberry marmalade, sprinkled with 2012. —S.H. 2000s. Dry, rich and dramatically structured, this cinnamon, brown sugar and nutmeg. Rich, but cellarworthy wine has impressive flavors of black- Beringer 2008 Pinot Noir (Napa lacks vitality. Drink now. —S.H. berries and cassis, with earthier notes of black olive 86 Valley); $25. This Pinot Noir is quite tapenade and cedarwood. Could easily score even dry and acidic, and while it has some polished CABERNETS & BLENDS higher down the road. —S.H. cherry, mushroom and oak flavors, they could be Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2007 a little richer. Still, it’s an elegant wine that will Joseph Phelps 2007 Backus Vine- Artemis Cabernet Sauvignon drink well with a grilled steak. —S.H. yard Cabernet Sauvignon 94 95 (Napa Valley); $55. Here’s a Cab to put in the (Oakville); $250. Shows the Bacchus profile of cellar. It’s big and rich and frankly sensational, Bonterra 2009 Pinot Noir (Mendo- ripe blackberry and cassis fruit, pure, strong tan- just massive in blackberries, currants and sweet 86 cino County); $20. This is a good, nins and exceptional balance. It’s a dry, classically dark chocolate. The tannins are fierce, but very everyday Pinot Noir whose cherry and rhubarb structured Cabernet of enormous complexity and fine, and the overall balance is impeccable. Too flavors and silky mouthfeel make it a pretty good interest. So delicious now, it’s tempting to drink, astringent now, even with decanting, but should value for the price. It’s nice and dry, with a spicy but it’s way too young. This is a wine to cellar, easily improve in the bottle throughout the next finish. —S.H. and it should blossom over the next 20 years. decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Castle Rock 2009 Pinot Noir Viader 2007 Red Wine (Napa Val- (Sonoma County); $14. A good, Kuleto Estate 2006 India Ink 86 ley); $100. This lush wine epitomizes everyday Pinot marked by dryness, softness and Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- 94 95 the modern Napa style of soft richness and raspberry, cherry and cola flavors. Nice with salty ley); $80. Here’s one for the cellar, guaranteed. extreme drinkability when young. Made from ham, lamb chops or roasted salmon. —S.H. It shows all the classic hallmarks of an ageworthy Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, it’s Napa Cabernet. Dry, tannic and closed, with beautiful now for its blackberry, black currant, Inception 2008 Pinot Noir (Santa massively concentrated blackberry and cassis fla- dark chocolate and cedar flavors. For all its 86 Barbara County); $28. A good, clean vors, and a firm grounding of minerals. Very fine and complex, very impressive. Hold for at least approachability, it should age well for the next six Pinot that shows cool-climate acidity and dryness, to eight years. —S.H. and long hangtime raspberry, cherry and cola fla- six years, and should develop in the bottle for far longer. Cellar Selection. —S.H. vors. It’s on the simple side, but a lovely wine to Arrowood 2006 Réserve Spéciale drink now. —S.H. Kuleto Estate 2006 Frog Prince 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Val- Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- ley); $110. A great, elegant Cabernet to drink Inception 2008 Pinot Noir (Central 95 ley); $80. Gorgeous, opulent, intense, a really now and for the next four years or so. It’s soft in Coast); $20. A good Pinot Noir for the 86 impressive Cabernet right out of the bottle. Feels acids and satiny in tannins, with extraordinarily price, showing classy Central Coast dryness and softly tannic and very dry, with enormously com- delicious blackberry- and cherry-pie filling, anise acidity. The raspberry, cherry, cola and spice fla- plex flavors of blackberries and cassis, cola, vio- liqueur, cassis, cola and sweet, smoky oak flavors. vors pair well with smoked meats, grilled steak, or lets, minerals, cedar and unnameable tastes from Gets better as it breathes in the glass. —S.H. just a great juicy burger. —S.H. the earth. A wine to savor now and cellar for a decade. —S.H. Chimney Rock 2007 Elevage Jekel 2008 Pinot Noir (Santa Bar- 93 (Stags Leap District); $78. A brilliant 86 bara County); $18. Don’t discount Joseph Phelps 2007 Insignia (Napa Bordeaux blend, just captivating for its lush fruit, this Pinot Noir because it’s in a screw top and the 94 Valley); $225. You have to count this as elegance and classy balance. Remarkable for the price is under $20. It’s quite a nice wine, dry and another great Insignia, dry and complex and age- integrity of tannins, so sturdy and refined, so pure silky. Made in a lighter style to be opened now, it worthy, although the tannins are fierce now, and and sweet. A feminine wine, to judge by its soft has pleasant cherry, cola and sandalwood flavors. it may lack just a bit of the glamor of, say, the allure, and yet packed with power and integrity. —S.H. 2004 or 2001. It’s certainly a big wine that floods Beautiful now, although it’s easily one for the next

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 five to seven years. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Krupp Brothers 2006 Veraison ing it a gentle Cabernet to drink now and for the Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. —S.H. 91 Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet next few years. Tasted twice. —S.H. Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $60. From the Cimarone 2007 Le Clos Secret vineyard high up on Atlas Peak comes this deli- Peju 2007 Fifty/Fifty Cabernet 92 (Santa Ynez Valley); $60. From cious, well-made wine. At more than four years of 90 Sauvignon-Merlot (Napa Valley); Happy Canyon, now an official appellation, one of age, it’s still fairly tannic, but fresh and accessible $85. Made from equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon the best and most delicious Bordeaux blends to in blackberry and cherry fruit. Just beginning to and Merlot. It’s quite good and rich, with strong, emerge from that warmer area. It’s exuberant in dry out and show mellow bottle age. A lovely, upfront blackberry, cherry, currant and oak fla- black cherry and raspberry flavors, accented with masculine wine that should develop over the next vors and a dry, spicy finish. The softness mitigates sweet, smoky oak, and defined by smooth, rich six years. —S.H. against aging, so drink now–2013. Only 806 cases tannins. Instantly drinkable, and a brand to watch. produced. —S.H. The winemaker is Doug Margerum. —S.H. Allegiance 2008 Red Wine (Napa 90 Valley); $36. Strongly flavored, lacking Sabina Vineyards 2007 Estate Clos Pegase 2006 Tenma Vineyard perhaps some nuance but makes up for it in 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena); 92 Hommage Cabernet Sauvignon sheer power. Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, with $100. The 2006 vintage of this Cabernet blew (Napa Valley); $90. This is the winery’s Artist some Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, it wows me away. This '07 is considerably more difficult Series Cabernet, grown primarily in Calistoga, with blackberry, cassis, blueberry and cherry fla- to evaluate. Fresh out of the bottle, it’s dry, tannic and it’s a good example of the 2006 vintage, vors that finish dry and spicy. A good structure of and raw in acids. The black cherry sour candy which was not a strong one for Cabernet Sauvi- tannins and acids suggests limited time on the and Dr. Pepper cola flavors have an unrelieved gnon. The wine shows ripe flavors of blackberries cellar. Drink now through 2014. —S.H. toughness. Yet the balance seems to be there for and cherries, coated with plenty of new oak. It’s aging. The score is entirely tentative, and could well rise in coming years. But it could also go delicious, but soft and not suited to aging. Best Aurielle 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon down. Roll the dice. —S.H. now through 2012. —S.H. 90 (Napa Valley); $90. This very soft, ripe wine is forward and lush in black cherry, Vogelzang 2006 Estate Cabernet Grassini 2007 Estate Cabernet blackberry, blueberry and milk chocolate flavors, Sauvignon (Happy Canyon of Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley); with a rich veneer of caramelized oak. It’s deli- 90 92 Santa Barbara); $43. A wonderful Cabernet, $65. From the Happy Canyon area, this 100% cious now, and should remain appealing for the rich and complex, that advances the cause of this Cabernet shows the ripeness this warmer east- next 4–5 years. —S.H. inland Santa Barbara Valley for Bordeaux vari- ern appellation brings to the grapes. It’s rich, dry eties. Tasted against fine Cabs from Napa Valley, and attractive in blackberries, black currants and Bell 2007 Clone 6 Cabernet Sauvi- it did just fine, with intricate blackberry, cassis oak, with mineral and herbal complexities and gnon (Rutherford); $90. The winery 90 and currant flavors. Work needs to be done on very refined tannins. Should age well for up to six says this very rich 100% Cabernet comes from the tannins, to give them greater definition, years. —S.H. the Beckstoffer Georges III vineyard, which is in although it’s hard to tell if that’s a function of the between Highway 29 and the Silverado Trail, grapes or the barrels. —S.H. Paul Dolan 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- although it doesn’t say so on the label. The wine 92 gnon (Mendocino County); $25. A is marked by gigantic and somewhat sweet fruit, Kuleto Estate 2006 Native Son terrific Cabernet that shows vast improvement in the form of blackberry, cherry and raspberry 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- over the winery’s earlier efforts. In fact, you could jam. It’s awkward now, but seems to have a useful ley); $80. Not showing well now, a dry, tartly place it next to far more expensive Napa bot- lifespan. Try after 2013, and could be one for the acidic wine with jammy blackberry and cherry tlings. It’s dry and elegantly tannic and complex, long haul. Cellar Selection. —S.H. flavors. Feels sharp and angular and fresh. The showing blackberry, currant, violet, herb and grapes come from the mountain estate vineyard, cedar flavors that bring to mind a fine Bordeaux. Longboard 2007 Rochioli VIneyard and the wine could develop bottle complexity Drink now with upscale fare. Editors’ Choice. 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Russian over the years. Best to cellar for a good 5–6 years —S.H. River Valley); $80. A bright, spicy Cabernet and try again. —S.H. from this famous vineyard better known for Pinot Chimney Rock 2007 Tomahawk Noir and Chardonnay. Made from a small, older Kuleto Estate 2006 Cabernet 91 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon block of vines, it’s dry and appealing, with ripe 89 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $50. (Stags Leap District); $115. Lush and cherry, blackberry, cedar, anise and pepper fla- Here’s a solid Cabernet for drinking now and smooth, this is a Cabernet to drink now for its vors. Drink now for freshness. —S.H. over the next few years. It’s dry and full-bodied, fantastic depth and captivating deliciousness. It’s with classic flavors of blackberries and cassis, lib- dry and tannic, with major flavors of blackber- Napa Angel 2007 Aurelio’s Selec- erally oaked. It’s tight right out of the bottle, so ries, blueberries, currants and cassis, framed in 90 tion Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa give it a long decant. —S.H. smoky oak. Feels important and classy all the way, Valley); $90. Showing softly sweet raspberry, although it could use just a bit more acid bite for cherry and cocoa flavors, with a luxe coating of Mount Eden 2006 Saratoga Cuvee complete balance. —S.H. smoky oak. Acidity and tannins are melted, mak- 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Cruz

WineMag.com | 6 5 BUYING I GUIDE

Mountains); $28. A good exemplar of Cabernet Ridge 2007 California Monte Bello vanilla and caramel notes. It’s delicious, but grown in this important winegrowing region south 88 (Santa Cruz Mountains); $145. Not pretty direct, lacking some complexity and struc- of San Francisco. It’s a perfect wine to drink now the best Monte Bello to emerge in recent years. ture. —S.H. for its dryness, tannic balance and classic black- There’s a sharpness of acidity that cuts the palate, berry, black currant and raisin flavors. —S.H. and it accentuates the fresh fruit, giving it a Beringer 2007 Private Reserve jammy zing. More troubling is an overripe raisiny 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- Bell 2007 Claret Cabernet Sauvi- flavor. This bottling is, of course, one of the most ley); $115. Quite good and rich in jammy berry, 88 gnon (Napa Valley); $35. A little on ageable in California, but the inherent imbalance cherry, cassis and oak flavors, but there’s a certain the soft side, but very dry, with smoky oak and seems to mitigate against long time in the cellar. obvious appeal that lacks complexity, and it’s not blackberry fruit dominating. Feels good and —S.H. what you expect from a wine of this reputation chewy and rich, with interesting herb and spice and price. This bottling has been falling off from notes. Will age for a few years, but not for a long Rivera 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon the glories of the 1990s for some years now. A time. Give it a good decant. —S.H. 88 (Atlas Peak); $85. Delicious in black- pity. Hopefully the trend will reverse. Production berry and cherry jam, currant and sweetly was 9,008 cases. —S.H. Beringer 2007 Alluvium (Knights smoked cedar wood, with a rich edge of milk 88 Valley); $30. This blend of all five Bor- chocolate, sprinkled with anise and cinnamon. Le Vigne 2006 Kiara Private deaux varieties hails from a smaller, high eleva- Could be firmer in structure, as it’s a little soft 87 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon tion appellation bridging Sonoma County and and melted, and probably best now. —S.H. (Paso Robles); $20. Good price for a Cabernet Napa Valley. It’s jammy and spicy in red fruit, of this quality, and one that’s been aged for four- berry and cocoa flavors. Drink now. —S.H. Wente 2007 Charles Wetmore plus years. It’s soft and mellow and drinkable 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore now, with enjoyable blackberry, currant, licorice, Dutcher Crossing 2007 Cooney Valley); $25. Wente continues to impress with spice and cedar flavors. —S.H. 88 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon fine wines at fair price points, and this 2007 is a (Alexander Valley); $43. This 100% Caber- case in point, a high-end offering at a still rea- Sequoia Grove 2007 Cabernet net was grown in a hilly part of the eastern valley. sonable price. A rich, red Cabernet Sauvignon, 87 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $38. A It shows very ripe, jammy flavors of cherries and with Petite Verdot and Petite Sirah in here, too, it good, useful Cabernet, made for balance in large raspberries. Saved from simplicity by smooth tan- delivers intense flavors of dark, ripe plums and quantities from vineyards up and down the valley. nins and a kiss of dusty earth. Drink now. —S.H. brown sugar, a very agreeable Cabernet that will It’s dry, tannic and complex in blackberry, black pair well with rich red meats. —V.B. currant, herb and new oak flavors. Drinking well Joseph Phelps 2007 Cabernet now. Production was 17,843 cases. —S.H. 88 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $54. This Arger-Martucci 2006 Cabernet is a rich, complicated Cabernet Sauvignon, brim- 87 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $40. A Simple Math Cellars 2008 Caber- ming with ripe, outgoing blackberry, cassis, blue- shade off the 2005, being leaner and more tannic, 87 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $40. berry and dark chocolate flavors, liberally coated and more akin to the 2001. It’s a dry, taut Cab, A lighter, more elegant style of Cabernet, dry and with smoky sweet oak. It’s very dry, with the firm marked by a drying astringency accompanying classy. Likeable for its balance of acids, tannins, but refined tannins you’d expect from a Joseph the blackberry and mineral flavors. Drink alcohol and oak, and rich blackberry, cassis and Phelps bottling. Just a hair rustic. Best now–2015. now–2012. —S.H. cedar flavors. Drink now. —S.H. —S.H. Arger-Martucci 2006 Odyssey St. Francis 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- Miro 2008 Silverwood Vineyard 87 Estate Reserve (Napa Valley); $50. 87 gnon (Sonoma County); $22. Good 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Made in the modern style, with lots of upfront, price for a nicely complex Cabernet for drinking Valley); $28. Tastes a little heavy and straight- jammy flavors of blackberries, cherries and rasp- now. Dry and smooth in tannins, it shows ripe forward, although it’s nicely dry, and shows rich berries. It’s a drily tannic wine, with good acidity. blackberry, cherry, licorice and herb flavors, with blackberry, cherry, anise and herb flavors that Fully drinkable now after a brief decant. —S.H. a kiss of oak. —S.H. veer into dried currants. Turns even richer on the finish, with the sweetness of liqueur. Drink now. Bell 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Villa Mt. Eden 2006 Grand —S.H. 87 (Napa Valley); $45. A rich, smooth 87 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet for drinking soon. Made from a blend (Napa Valley); $15. Shows enough fanciness Napa Angel 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- of vineyards through the appellation, it shows to make it worth the price. Although it has no 88 gnon (Napa Valley); $55. Thick in blackberry, currant, cassis and oak notes, possibilities of improving with age, it’s a fine, tannins, and with a sweet, tart taste of blackberry wrapped into firm tannins. —S.H. softly gentle Cabernet to drink now. Shows cor- jam, this Cabernet isn’t offering much subtlety rect blackberry, black currant and oak flavors. now. It feels tough and gritty, a wine with plenty Bell 2007 Talianna (Napa Valley); Best Buy. —S.H. of youthful, primary fruit. Could develop in the 87 $70. Here’s a soft, fruity and sweet bottle. Give it a good decant if you drink now. Cabernet, rich and spicy in raspberry, cherry and Wente 2008 Southern Hills Caber- Tasted twice. —S.H. blackberry jam. Lots of new oak adds smoky 87 net Sauvignon (Livermore Valley);

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 $14.99. A purplish Cab with smatterings of Petit little green, but pleasant enough in blackberry and so easy to like for its soft mouthfeel and lus- Verdot, Petite Sirah, Grenache and Merlot that and cherry flavors, with a hit of sweet oak. Fin- cious upfront fruit. Just wows with raspberries starts out quite tannic, mellowing into a nicely ishes totally dry and brisk. Drink now. —S.H. and cherries, with polished tannins, balancing balanced dinner-table wine, with hints of cran- acidity and a touch of smoky oak. Editors’ berry and black currant and subtle oak. A great McManis 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- Choice. —S.H. deal for a well-made Cab that should get even 85 gnon (California); $11. A nice Cab better with another 2–3 years in bottle. —V.B. for the price due to the full-bodied richness and Longboard 2008 DaKine Vineyard ripe fruity flavor. It’s big in blackberry jam and 87 Merlot (Russian River Valley); $25. Lander-Jenkins 2008 Spirit Hawk spices, with a coating of smoky oak. Easy to find, This Merlot is strong and jammy in cherries and 86 Cabernet Sauvignon (California); with 115,000 cases produced. —S.H. blackberries, with some herbs and spices for $15. Good price for a nice, everyday Cab. It’s interest. It’s dry and crisp, a nice wine for drink- made in a lighter, accessible style, with jammy pie- Valley Legend 2008 Cabernet ing now. —S.H. filling blackberry, cherry, blueberry and raspberry 85 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $55. Soft flavors, brightened with citrusy acidity. —S.H. and tannic, with jammy flavors of blackberries, Star Lane Vineyard 2007 Merlot cherries, dark chocolate and spices. Not showing 87 (Santa Ynez Valley); $32. Dark, full- Nadia 2006 Santa Barbara High- much structure, and not going anywhere, so drink bodied and a little ponderous, showing firm tan- 86 lands Vineyard (Santa Barbara up. —S.H. nins and blackberry, blueberry, plum, mocha and County); $35. A little rugged in the mouth, spice flavors that finish dry and spicy. Lacks some with some fierce tannins, but otherwise a pretty Angeline 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- complexity, but overall a good red to wash down good Cabernet-based wine. The berry-cherry and 83 gnon (Alexander Valley); $18. Sim- grilled meats. —S.H. currant flavors will benefit from an hour or two of ple and fruity, with pie-filling berry and cola airing. —S.H. flavors and smoky oak. It’s dry, with good tannins, Beringer 2007 Merlot (Napa Val- but pretty acidic. —S.H. 85 ley); $20. Soft and forward, with jammy Pomar Junction 2006 Cabernet flavors of cherries, berries and herbs. Tastes a bit 86 Sauvignon (Paso Robles); $34. Cherokee Vineyards 2008 Reserve overripe toward the finish, with some raisins. Good Cabernet Sauvignon, spicy, full bodied and 83 Cabernet Sauvignon (California); Drink now. —S.H. fruity. It’s a little gritty and rustic in the mouth, $15. An average, everyday Cabernet, okay for with the blackberry and cherry flavors turning the price. It’s soft and a little sweet, with sugared Chateau Meroux 2007 Merlot jammy sweet. Drink now. —S.H. blackberry tea flavors. —S.H. 85 (Bennett Valley); $20. Dry, spicy and rugged, with a sharp mouthfeel and uneven tan- Simple Math Cellars 2007 Caber- Castle Rock 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- nins. Saved by intensely fruity flavors of cherries 86 net Sauvignon (Sonoma County); 82 gnon (Paso Robles); $10. An every- and blackberries. Calling all hamburgers. —S.H. $35. A nice Cabernet for drinking now. It’s rich day Cabernet that’s just barely worth the price. in berries, cherries, currants and oak, with It’s soft and sweet in pie-filling cherry and black- Clos Pegase 2006 Merlot (Napa smooth tannins and soft acidity. Shows an elabo- berry flavors. —S.H. 84 Valley); $25. Pretty standard Merlot. ration that makes it upscale and elegant. —S.H. It’s dry and tannic, with blackberry, earth and Waterstone 2005 Reserve Caber- cedar flavors. There are some unripe notes that Coquelicot 2007 Mon Amour 81 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $60. approach asparagus. Drink now. —S.H. 85 (Santa Ynez Valley); $59. This Bor- Going downhill fast. Losing fruit, with vegetal deaux blend is a little rough around the edges. It aromas and flavors emerging. It feels raspingly Le Vigne di Domenico 2007 Mer- has a sharp, jammy feeling, and seems too sweet dry and empty on the finish. —S.H. 84 lot (Paso Robles); $30. Shows good in raspberry- and cherry-pie filling. Will appeal to blackberry and currant flavors, but there’s some- fans of an easy drinking, accessible style of a thing off in the mouthfeel. It’s a sharpness, a Cabernet-based wine. —S.H. MERLOT rugged, tart green chlorophyll feeling that sug- gests unripe tannins. —S.H. Dascomb Cellars 2005 Cabernet Krupp Brothers 2006 Stagecoach 85 Sauvignon (Santa Barbara 90 Vineyard Merlot (Napa Valley); Martin Ray 2008 Reserve Merlot County); $28. Dry, thin and astringent. At the $60. Held back for four years, this Merlot is fully 84 (Oak Knoll); $25. Sweet, tart and sim- age of five years plus, the fruit is largely gone, drinkable now. It’s a lush, fancy wine whose rich ple, like the filling on a black-cherry pie. Not leaving behind bitter cherryskin and tobacco fla- cherry, currant, cocoa, red licorice, spice and san- much else going on. Drink now. —S.H. vors and the heat of alcohol. Still, it’s an elegant dalwood flavors are enhanced by finely ground wine with some complexity. —S.H. mountain tannins. The vineyard is high up on McManis 2009 Merlot (California); Atlas Peak. —S.H. 84 $10. A simple Merlot, soft and sweet in Dascomb Cellars 2007 Cabernet raspberries, cherries and red licorice. At this 85 Sauvignon (Happy Canyon of Wente 2007 Sandstone Merlot price, it’s perfectly fine for casual fare and big Santa Barbara); $28. Sharp in acidity and a 88 (Arroyo Seco); $15. Totally delicious parties. —S.H.

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Pietra Santa 2006 Estate Merlot Jaffurs 2008 Ampelos Vineyard tlings to shame. It’s a little soft, but wonderfully 84 (Cienega Valley); $15. A little harsh 94 Syrah (Sta. Rita Hills); $46. So deli- rich and complex in berry, cherry, prosciutto, and irregular in tannins, with strong, ripe flavors cious, so drinkably good, it defines the beauty of anise, white pepper and sandalwood flavors that of cherry and raspberry jam that finish sweet. It’s great coastal Syrah. A bit high in alcohol, but the go on and on, and finish is long and spicy. Not an a rustic wine for drinking with easy fare. —S.H. heat fits in well beside the white and black pep- ager, but a beautiful wine to drink now. —S.H. per notes, and gives a lift to the vast blackberry, Angeline 2009 Merlot (Russian cassis, bacon and sandalwood flavors. Drink now Jaffurs 2008 Upslope Syrah (Santa 83 River Valley); $14. Sharp and jammy, through 2014. —S.H. 93 Barbara County); $75. This best bar- like blackberry and cherry jam wine. Lots of rels blend of all Jaffurs’s Syrahs combines charm- Ojai 2005 Presidio Vineyard Syrah freshness and acidity, not much elegance. Drink ing early drinkability with some ageability. It’s (Santa Barbara County); $45. Held up. —S.H. 94 vast and deep in blackberries, cassis and dark back for five years, this interesting Syrah is devel- chocolate, but firm in tannins, framing delicious oping bottle complexities. It’s soft and gentle, with Pavillion Crossing 2009 Merlot fruit in a sturdy structure. With a dry finish, it firm tannins, and the fruit is changing from fresh 83 (Sonoma County); $12. A sharp, rus- will provide good drinking over the next six years. and primary to ethereal and mushroomy. Quite a tic wine, sweet in sugary raspberry, cherry and —S.H. crunchy almond granola flavors. —S.H. beautiful, elegant wine now, and it should continue to evolve over the next five years. —S.H. Jaffurs 2008 Thompson Vineyard Red Rock 2008 Reserve Merlot Samsara 2008 Ampelos Vineyard 93 Syrah (Santa Barbara County); 83 (California); $14. Rustic in the tex- $42. 94 Syrah (Sta. Rita Hills); $38. One Fat and delicious. Marked by huge, explo- ture, with unevenly ripened tannins, and the sive blackberry, cassis, beef jerky and pepper fla- cherry and berry flavors have a touch of raisins. hundred percent whole cluster fermentation makes this young Syrah vigorously tannic and vors, housed in a fine structure. Wonderful Pretty standard stuff. —S.H. spicy. It’s enormously rich and concentrated in tannins, rich and firm, with enough acidity for balance. Drink this full-bodied red wine over the Cherokee Vineyards 2008 Reserve white pepper, currant, violet, grilled meat and cedar flavors, with a core of grilled blackberries. next five years. —S.H. Merlot (California); $15. Soft, sweet 82 Feels important and distinguished in the mouth, and dull, with Life-Saver candy flavors of cher- an elegant wine for an elegant meal. Drink now Sanguis 2005 Bossman Syrah (Cal- ries. Okay in a pinch. —S.H. through 2014. —S.H. 93 ifornia); $70. This is a dark, dry and tannic wine, even at the age of five-plus years. It SYRAH/SHIRAZ Sanguis 2005 Kubernetes Syrah even shows some austerity, with a cloak of astrin- 94 (California); $75. One hundred per- gency. Nearly all Syrah, it has a massive core of cent Syrah from the Watch Hill Vineyard, in the Sanguis 2006 As The Crow Flies blackberry jam, licorice, bacon and sandalwood, Los Alamos Valley section of Santa Barbara with a pleasantly funky note of what seems like Syrah (California); $75. Nearly all 96 County. It’s very new-oaky now, with an explo- Syrah, with a splash of Viognier, this wine comes brettanomyces. A drop of Viognier lends crisp sion of buttered toast, char, vanilla and wood tan- from some of the best vineyards in the Santa acidity to this wonderfully rich wine. Now–2013. nins. Underneath is a funky red wine just waiting Ynez and Los Alamos Valleys, including the —S.H. to emerge. Already showing notes of bacon, teri- Happy Canyon area. It’s a dramatic glass of red aki beef and massively ripe blackberries. A hel- Jaffurs 2008 Verna’s Vineyard wine, bone dry and fairly tannic, with vast, intri- luva wine, impressive and dramatic. The big 92 Syrah (Santa Barbara County); cate flavors of blackberries, black currants, teriaki question is what will it do? Should develop for $42. Grown in the Los Alamos Valley, this Syrah beef, cherries, red licorice, cola, dark chocolate an additional 4–6 years. —S.H. and toast. The Viognier brings a brightening dash is notable for richness. It’s marked by peppery aromas, then turns spicy and huge in ripe black- of citrus and acidity. An extraordinary wine that Vineyard of Pasterick 2005 Syrah berries, cassis and grilled teriaki beef, with com- will drink well through 2014. —S.H. (Dry Creek Valley); $38. Kudos to 94 plications from sweet, smoky oak. Simply the winery for holding this estate grown wine Sanguis 2007 The Oracle of Del- back for five-plus years. The wine is now softly delicious now, and will hold in the bottle for up to 95 phi Syrah (California); $85. A bril- dry and enormously complex, showing blackberry five years. —S.H. liant Syrah, showing its cool-climate origins with a and cherry liqueur flavors that are beginning to burst of white pepper. Much of the fruit comes age into drier, earthier notes of dried fruits and Ojai 2007 Syrah (Santa Barbara from the Bien Nacido Vineyard, and the Syrah minerals. Cofermentation with some Viognier 92 County); $26. This fresh, young Syrah contains 4% Viognier. Firm tannins and fine acid- adds the perfect touch of bright, citrusy acidity. is a lovely wine to drink now, at a good price for ity give this delicious wine structure, but it’s —S.H. the quality. It’s jammy and forward in cherries, mostly notable for the extraordinary depth and black raspberries and red currants, with hints of length of its blackberry, currant, teriaki beef, Adelaida 2007 The Glenrose Vine- white pepper and cocoa. Feels elegant, complex mushroom and cedar flavors. The wine easily 93 yard Reserve Syrah (Paso Robles); and balanced all the way through. Editors’ stands up to 100% new French oak casks. —S.H. $55. A Syrah that puts many more famous bot- Choice. —S.H.

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 Qupé 2008 Sawyer Lindquist Krupp Brothers 2007 Stagecoach Qupé 2008 Sawyer Lindquist 92 Vineyard Syrah (Edna Valley); $35. 90 Vineyard Black Bart Syrah (Napa 88 Vineyard Sonnie’s Syrah (Edna This section of San Luis Obispo County is not Valley); $60. As delicious as a pastry dessert, Valley); $55. Upscale and pedigreed, but not known as Syrah country, but judging by this beau- although it’s fully dry, showing chocolate-infused showing well now. Too tannic, with an astringent tiful bottling, it should be. The wine is bone dry, blackberries, raspberries and beef jerky, sprinkled lockdown that accentuates the acidity. Under- firm in tannins and bright in acidity, with a cool- with white pepper and anise. The tannic structure neath are fine black cherry, cola, pepper and oak climate white pepper note riding over intense is beautiful on this elegant Syrah. —S.H. flavors. The suggestion is ageability, but the black cherry, roasted meat and cola flavors, made future of this wine is unpredictable no matter more complicated by oak. Delicious and com- Novy 2008 Syrah (Napa Valley); what anyone says. —S.H. pelling and best now. —S.H. $19. Robust, full bodied and frankly 90 Wente 2008 Shorthorn Canyon, delicious, this is a great value in an upscale Syrah. 92% Livermore Valley, San Fran- Samsara 2008 Melville Vineyard It’s bone dry, but exceptionally rich in blackberry 88 cisco Bay, 8% Arroyo Seco Syrah (Liver- Syrah (Sta. Rita Hills); $40. A deli- and cherry-pie filling, currant, licorice, bacon, 92 more Valley); $14.99. Savory on the nose with cious wine, dry and lush and very rich. Hard to sandalwood and pepper flavors that are deep and enough sweet blueberry to make it varietally resist the exotic appeal of its tangerine, cherry, long in the finish. Amazing how good it is for the enticing, this light purplish Syrah is well- rose petal and sandalwood flavors, with a touch of price. A sommelier’s dream, but production was balanced, pleasing and well-made, ready to drink Editors’ Choice. smoky char from new oak. A drop of Malvasia only 248 cases. —S.H. now with a range of foods, its alcohol in propor- Bianca adds a fresh bite of acidity and citrus peel. tion and acidity right on target. Wente blends in Qupé 2008 Alisos Vineyard Syrah —S.H. small percentages of Counoise, Petite Sirah, 90 (Santa Barbara County); $35. This Mourvèdre and Tempranillo into this great-value Adelaida 2007 Viking Estate Vine- is a dry Syrah to drink now with upscale fare. It Syrah. Delicious. —V.B. 91 yard Reserve Syrah (Paso Robles); feels classy and important, although it’s not a $65. Complicated in flavor, and totally dry, this blockbuster. Prefers elegance over power, with Autonom 2007 Law of Propor- Syrah has flavors of wild blackberries and cherries, firm tannins and acidity framing sour cherry 87 tions Syrah (California); $38. The licorice, herbs and spices that grow in the glass. candy, mineral and white pepper flavors. Drink components of this wine are all over the place, It’s a soft wine made for drinking now. —S.H. now. —S.H. with blackberry and currant fruit, 100% new oak, brisk tannins and acidity needing to come Gainey 2007 Limited Selection Qupé 2008 Nielson Vineyard together for harmony. Whether or not they will is 91 Syrah (Sta. Rita Hills); $42. Most of 90 Syrah (Santa Maria Valley); $35. a guess. Right now it’s rustic, but dry and complex the grapes come from this cool-climate growing Very dry, fairly tannic and acidic, with a tart bite enough to drink after a good decant. —S.H. area, giving the wine a peppery aroma and flavor. that makes the flavors even more austere than The winemaker included 15% Syrah from the they are. But it’s a complicated, interesting wine, Brander 2009 Clover Creek Vine- warmer home ranch in the Santa Ynez Valley. A obviously pedigreed. Shows discrete, elusive 87 yard Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley); good choice, as that adds a fat, soft richness. Fin- black cherry, crushed pepper, mineral and san- $20. A nice, flavorful and dry Syrah for drinking ishes fully dry, firm in acidity and finely tannic, with dalwood flavors that linger. Should develop over now with barbecue or a rich lamb or beef stew. ripe flavors of blackberries. Drink now. —S.H. the next 3–4 years. —S.H. Soft and gentle, it’s rich in blackberries, cherries, currants, beef jerky, pepper and smoky oak. —S.H. Novy 2008 Christensen Vineyard Sobriquet Winery 2008 Syrah Brander 2009 Syrah (Santa Ynez Syrah (Russian River Valley); $27. (Santa Ynez Valley); $45. One of the 91 90 Valley); $22. Brander’s basic Syrah is a Another solid Syrah from specialist Novy. The spiciest wines of the year, this Syrah is clearly 87 good, dry wine, and while it’s a little on the light wine is notable for its delicious flavors of berries, from a cool climate, to judge by its explosive side, it has pretty flavors of blackberries, black roasted meats, pepper and cedar, and is elevated white and black pepper aromas and flavors. It’s pepper, cola and black currants. The alcohol is by a fine structure. Beautiful tannins, fine acidity, very dry and full bodied, with powerful black- nice and low, under 14%. —S.H. completely dry, and with a smooth, elegant, spicy berry, pepper steak and smoky wood flavors. Give finish. —S.H. it a good decant before drinking with Santa Brander 2009 Colson Canyon Maria-style barbecued tri-tip. —S.H. 87 Vineyard Syrah (Santa Barbara Ancient Peaks 2008 Syrah (Paso County); $35. Heavy and dense in the mouth, 90 Robles); $16. A really nice Syrah, espe- Qupé 2008 Purisima Mountain with rich flavors of grilled blackberries, pepper cially at this price. It’s dry, softly tannic and enor- 88 Vineyard Syrah (Santa Ynez Val- and a lovely addition of toasted oak. Nice and dry, mously rich in blackberry and cherry-pie filling, ley); $35. A beautiful Syrah. It’s very dry and but a bit too soft, and would benefit from greater red licorice, beef jerky, black pepper and sandal- softly tannic, with complex blackberry, black structure. —S.H. wood flavors. A real pleasure to drink now if cherry, cola and sandalwood flavors. Could be you’re looking for a medium-bodied red. Edi- firmer in structure, but a lovely wine to drink Dierberg 2007 Syrah (Santa Ynez tors’ Choice. —S.H. now. —S.H. 87 Valley); $32. Very dense in the mouth

WineMag.com | 6 9 BUYING I GUIDE and full-bodied, with a dry, soft feeling. Lots of Mueller 2006 Block Eleven Syrah second tasting eight hours after the first. Decant toasty oak, too. Feels somewhat inert, but the 86 (Russian River Valley); $29. At more or, preferably, give it another 3–5 years. —V.B. delicious cherries, toast and spices make it a than four years of age, this Syrah is very dry. It’s pleasant sipper. —S.H. also tannic, with a hard, astringent bite to the blackberries. Somewhat rustic, it seems unlikely GRENACHE McManis 2009 Syrah (California); to develop in the bottle. —S.H. 87 $10. Here’s a fresh, delicious Syrah for Jaffurs 2008 Grenache (Santa Bar- drinking now. It’s lush and smooth in black rasp- Peju 2007 Persephone Vineyard 90 bara County); $34. Not a big, serious berry and cherry purée, fennel, beef jerky and 86 Syrah (Napa Valley); $32. Wonder- wine to earn the big points, just a nice, friendly black pepper flavors, backed up with a juicy hit of ful flavors in this dry Syrah, ranging from black- sipper that is frankly delicious. So clean in acidity, so pure in cherry, raspberry, spice and sandal- acidity. Best Buy. —S.H. berries and cherries through cola to dried herbs and anise. The tannins are gentle. The big prob- wood flavors, it’s irresistible. Elegant with every- Qupé 2008 Syrah (Central Coast); lem is excessive softness, which mars the wine’s thing from the perfect burger to an intricate ahi tuna tartare construction. —S.H. 87 $18. Shows the classy elegance of all structural integrity. Ready now. —S.H. Qupe’s Syrahs, although it’s thinner and rougher Qupé 2008 Bien Nacido Vineyard Qupé 2008 Sawyer Lindquist than the more expensive bottlings. Still, for the Vineyard Grenache (Edna Valley); price, this wine is nicely dry and intricate in 86 Syrah (Santa Maria Valley); $30. A 87 $35. Qupe reaches into the Edna Valley for this blackberry and crushed pepper flavors. —S.H. good Syrah, dry and firm in tannins, although it lacks the richness and structure of Qupe’s better finely crafted Grenache. It’s pale in color and has the silky texture of Pinot Noir, but there’s an Qupé 2006 Bien Nacido Hillside bottlings. Shows easy flavors of blackberries, earthy, Provençal herb tug to the cherry and cola black cherries, cola, funky smoked meat and oak. 87 Estate Syrah (Santa Maria Valley); flavors. A dry, polished and complex wine with a Drink now. —S.H. $40. Delicious, dry and complex, with wild crisp edge of cool-climate acidity. —S.H. blackberry, Provençal herb, white pepper and Star Angel by Montes 2007 Syrah sandalwood flavors. Feels elegant, but too soft, Sobriquet Winery 2008 Grenache (Paso Robles); $35. Soft and simple, lacking the structural integrity a fine wine needs. 86 (Paso Robles); $45. This taut, dry with herb-infused blackberry, cherry, cola, beef 87 Drink now. —S.H. Grenache shows better structure than most Cali- jerky and pepper flavors. Finishes dry and nicely fornia Grenaches, with its firm texture and bite of spicy, but needs greater structure, especially at Sanguis 2006 Waxing Poetic Syrah acidity. It shows the variety’s cherry flavors. Tasty this price. —S.H. 87 (California); $75. Made from 100% now, it’s a good substitute for any medium-bodied wine, such as Zinfandel or Merlot. —S.H. Syrah and aged in 100% new French oak, this Damian Rae 2008 White Hawk wine is currently hard, astringent and oaky, with Vineyard Syrah (Santa Barbara caramel, vanilla and buttered toast aromas and 85 County); $44. Good, but a bit tamped down flavors. The actual Syrah itself is clean and pure ZINFANDEL and dull in character, although it’s very dry, and in ripe blackberry jam. Might do something over the tannins are nice and smooth. Not much going the years, but probably best now, with a decant. Dry Creek Vineyard 2007 Beeson on flavor-wise except for modest blackberry and Ranch Zinfandel (Dry Creek Val- —S.H. 95 spice flavors. Drink now. —S.H. ley); $34. The vineyard is on winding, pictur- esque West Dry Creek Road, and is comprised of Westwood 2006 Annadel Estate Fetzer 2008 Shiraz (California); $9. Vineyard Syrah (Sonoma Valley); very old vines. In the wrong hands these low- 87 85 Fresh, dry and juicy in acids, showing yielding grapes might have been mishandled, but $29. Good complex flavors, and nicely dry, with peppery flavors of berry and cherry jam. A good Dry Creek Vineyard knows Zinfandel. The result intricately layered black cherry tart, red licorice, value in a pleasant, everyday red wine. Best Buy. is superb, spectacular, the essence of old vine cherry liqueur, milk chocolate, pepper and san- —S.H. Sonoma. Rich, dry and pure, it’s enormously dalwood flavors that finish long and spicy. Feels a complex in briary, peppery wild berries, with a bit too soft for aging, but nice now. —S.H. Wood Family Vineyards 2007 delicious edge of sweet raisins. Drink now for 84 Madden Ranch Syrah (Livermore sheer deliciousness. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Jaffurs 2008 Bien Nacido Vineyard Valley); $24. The grapes for this immense, rich 86 Syrah (Santa Barbara County); blueberry jammy Syrah come from NFL's John Newsome-Harlow 2008 Donner $42. There’s a dessert wine sweetness to this Madden’s ranch. It’s as big and loud as he can be, 93 Party Zin, Dalton Vineyard, Vine- wine that may be due to extremely high alcohol, with not quite enough fruit or acid to overcome yard Select Series Zinfandel (Calaveras to residual sugar, or both. Either way, it’s not the alcohol, which even gets in the way of the County); $36. Everything one could want in a really a table wine, despite delicious flavors of nose. With a small percentage of Grenache Zin: dark, rich color and very pleasing dark fruit blackberry and cherry jam and caramelized oak. blended in and the whole aged in 100% American aromas followed by a mouthful of juicy blackberry Better as a late night sipper, or with a chocolate oak (1/3 new), this style may appeal to some;, but and clove flavors and rich, dusty tannins. The pastry. —S.H. can be interpreted as overly voluptuous, even on a whole package, 89% zin with 11% Petite Sirah all

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 from the Dalton Vineyard, is nicely balanced, seri- undertones and rich berry and plum. Tannins are admirable acidity. A little sweeter and tighter ously rich and ends with a proper earthy kick on nicely integrated yet still pronounced yet the than the winery’s single-vineyard efforts. —V.B. the finish. Really, really good. —V.B. finish is long and incredibly smooth. —V.B. Ridge 2008 York Creek Zinfandel Miro 2008 Old Vines Zinfandel Wild Oak by St. Francis 2007 Old 87 (California); $30. A bit thin and acidic, 92 (Alexander Valley); $25. A terrific 90 Vines Zinfandel (Sonoma County); but charming for its dryness and firm tannins, Zinfandel, beautiful to drink now for its soft rich- $38. A really good Zinfandel that not only shows which call for rich, marbled beef. The pepper- ness. Flatters the palate with deep, lingering delicious flavors, but a wonderful structure. inspired blackberry and cassis flavors are fine. black cherry and raspberry pie filling, vanilla, Smooth and balanced, its briary blackberry and Not an ager, but will benefit from a few hours of Indian spice and sandalwood flavors, but is com- cherry-pie filling, cocoa, licorice, beef jerky and decanting. —S.H. pletely dry, with rich, intricate tannins. Only 190 pepper flavors are wrapped into fine tannins. The cases were produced, but worth the search. Edi- alcohol is high, but in keeping with the wine’s Williams Selyem 2008 Forchini tors’ Choice. —S.H. plush opulence. —S.H. 87 Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian River Valley); $60. This is a very rich Zinfandel that Frog’s Leap 2008 Zinfandel (Napa Newsome-Harlow 2008 Vineyard veers toward the soft, high alcohol end of the Valley); $27. A first rate Zinfandel. It 91 89 Select Series Zinfandel (Amador spectrum. It’s ripe in berry and cherry flavors that shows the classic structure, dryness and tannins County); $36. A big, chewy Zinfandel that’ll have an edge of currants and raisins, but the fin- of a fine Napa Valley Cabernet, yet the pepper, throw you on the ground and lather you in berry- ish is dry. Drink now. —S.H. baking spice and wild berry fruit and currant fla- incased tannins, peppery body and all-out lus- vors are uniquely Zin. And look at that alcohol, ciousness. All the fruit comes from Shake Ridge Dry Creek Vineyard 2008 Heritage under 14%. Drink this robust, complex wine with Ranch, Ann Kraemer’s rock-star vineyard, from a steaks, beef stew, tamales. —S.H. 86 Zinfandel (Sonoma County); $19. trio of clones (Heart’s Desire, Mendo and Monte A bit rustic and heavy, with extracted jammy fruit Rosso) and the 12% Petite Sirah adds a dusty Bonterra 2008 Zinfandel (Mendo- but lacking a certain vivacity and sharpness in the backdrop to the finish, which also surprises with a cino County); $16. There’s a textbook mouth. Good enough for the price. Production 90 touch of licorice. The oak is present, in a good quality to this Zinfandel. You could use it in a was 12,500 cases. —S.H. way. —V.B. teaching class as expressing the classic California attributes of the variety. It’s perfectly dry, not too St. Francis 2007 Old Vines Zinfan- Perception 2007 Zinfandel (Russ- high in alcohol, firm in tannins, and deeply fla- del (Sonoma County); $22. A strong ian River Valley); $38. This is quite a 86 vored in dark stone fruits and berries. And then 88 Zinfandel, tannic, high in alcohol and fruity, and good Zinfandel showing lots of classic varietal there are the freshly crushed peppercorns, black, brimming with wild forest cherry and raspberry character, and enough elegance to drink with an red, green and white. Could be the perfect bar- liqueur, exotic spices and sweet sandalwood. upscale meal. It’s dry and robust in berry and becue wine. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Drink it with a juicy cheeseburger, a spicy beef cherry jam, fruit liqueur, Dr. Pepper cola, pep- burrito and just a nice roast chicken. —S.H. Dry Creek Vineyard 2007 Old Vine pery spice and sandalwood flavors. Best now for freshness and vivacity. —S.H. 90 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley); $28. Ancient Peaks 2008 Zinfandel A little soft and heavy, but dry, with rich, Williams Selyem 2008 Papera 85 (Paso Robles); $16. A soft, gentle Zin- extracted flavors of berry jam, red licorice, milk Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian River fandel, a little sweet, like a raspberry and cherry chocolate and pepper spice. It’s a very good, 88 mocha drink sprinkled with cocoa and cinnamon. robust Zinfandel for drinking with barbecue and Valley); $50. Made in a big, overripe, soft and Easy to drink with spicy meats, soft cheeses, short ribs. —S.H. slightly sweet style, this will appeal to fans who like a more flamboyant Zinfandel. It’s very ripe in everyday fare. —S.H. Dry Creek Vineyard 2007 Somers berry jam, orange pekoe tea, cola and spice fla- Murphy-Goode 2008 Liar’s Dice Ranch Zinfandel (Dry Creek Val- vors. Almost a food group in itself. Drink with 90 Zinfandel (Sonoma County); $21. ley); $34. You might want to give this young Zin powerful, rich fare, such as spicy Vietnamese 85 A soft, simple but pretty wine, with slightly sweet, a year or two in the cellar. Right now, it’s forward beef, Mexican tamales and tacos, or good old and jammy in berry, cherry, chocolate and spice rubbed beef barbecue. —S.H. pie-filling cherry, raspberry, Dr. Pepper cola and flavors, and feels a bit heavy and soft. The vine- baking spice flavors. Drink now. —S.H. yard interestingly faces west, toward the hottest Newsome-Harlow 2008 Zinfandel afternoon sun. —S.H. 87 (Calaveras County); $20. This Zin is Perception 2007 Bacigalupi Vine- made from a combination of four of Newsome- 85 yard Zinfandel (Russian River Val- Newsome-Harlow 2008 Big John Harlow’s vineyard sources, including Locke, Big ley); $53. Starts with a funky smell that doesn’t 90 Zin - Vineyard Select Series Zin- John’s, Dalton and Shake Ridge Ranch, the latter go away despite lots of airing. Underneath that is fandel (Calaveras County); $36. A pure, all- three of which are all single-vineyard bottlings, a very dry, very tannic and deeply flavored Zin- out Zinfandel with enticing black and red fruit and incorporates 12% Petite Sirah. It’s solid, with fandel, rich in berries, cola and spices. That barn- on the nose followed by spicy, black peppery pretty raspberry flavors and hints of spice and yardy smell is troubling. —S.H.

WineMag.com | 7 1 BUYING I GUIDE

Tamás Estates 2007 Zinfandel Arger-Martucci’s shows a complex blackberry, made blend of Spanish and Portuguese red vari- 85 (Central Coast); $10. A little sharp in black cherry and currant structure. It’s dry, tannic etals, with the majority Tempranillo, with bright acidity, and the white pepper spice adds to the and changes interestingly as it warms in the glass. red cherry and cranberry and high acidic tones impression of zippiness in this bone-dry Zin. It’s —S.H. that’s also got a touch of lovely minerality, olive, deep and likeable in raspberry, cherry, blackberry toffee and vanilla. The 2007 is ready to drink now, and sandalwood flavors. Best Buy. —S.H. Sanguis 2006 Infidels (California); a well-balanced easy drinker with great aromatics 92 $70. One of the winery’s drier and more and not too much tannin. —V.B. Kendall-Jackson 2008 Jackson tannic wines, this Syrah, Grenache and Cabernet 84 Estates Grown Vintner’s Reserve Sauvignon blend comes from the Santa Ynez and Ridge 2008 Lytton Springs (Cali- Zinfandel (Mendocino County); $16. An Los Alamos valleys of Santa Barbara County. The 88 fornia); $35. Made with 74% Zin and okay wine that’s light in color and aromatics, big structure and slight astringency presently additions of Petite Sirah and Carignane, this wine traceable in part to its cooler-climate heritage dominate a solid core of blackberries, grilled is bone dry and a little rustic in the edgy tannins (95% of the grapes were grown in Mendocino, meat and black cherry jam. A dramatic wine, but that have hints of bitter greens. Yet it’s complexly the rest in Sonoma, Monterey and Santa Bar- still a little gritty after four-plus years. Drink flavored, offering waves of berries, currants, cola, bara), which does give it some subtly pleasing red now–2013. —S.H. anise and pepper. —S.H. fruit and spice notes. But 2008 was also for much of Mendocino a vintage from hell and this wine Baxter 2006 Caballo Blanco Vine- 2 Cocky Sisters N/V Estate Grown may in truth be reflecting that year’s challenges. 91 yard Carignan (Mendocino); $32. 87 (Paso Robles); $10. For an inexpen- —V.B. With its rose-petaled, dark-red hue, this old-vine sive wine, this is a pretty good investment. The Carignan is not for the faint of heart, but delivers alcohol is high, but it’s in keeping with the cherry, Ridge 2008 Pagani Ranch Zinfan- to anyone in search of the unusual, with intense berry, currant, dark chocolate and spice richness, 83 del (California); $35. Awkward, show- tannins and rich red fruit nicely topped with giving a fat, glycerol oiliness to the fruit. Easy to ing overripe, Porty flavors and undesirable impressive layers of acidity, making it a good wine like this soft, dry, heady wine. Best Buy. —S.H. sweetness. There’s a sugary undertow to the choice with a range of spicy, multilayered foods. blackberry jam, prune and raisin flavors. —S.H. This wine’s got some serious bite, especially on Bonterra 2006 The McNab (Men- the finish, and though already four years in bot- 87 docino County); $36. This is a Bor- tle, could age another 3–5 years. —V.B. deaux blend, based on Merlot, with some Petite OTHER RED WINES Sirah mixed in. It’s very dry, quite full-bodied and Banknote 2008 The Vault (Napa a little rustic, with some tough, edgy tannins. Sanguis 2007 The Devil & The 90 Valley); $32. A lovely wine to drink Doesn’t seem like an ager, but it will benefit from 95 Deep Blue Sea (California); $75. So now. It’s soft, dry, balanced and complex, with a few hours in a decanter. —S.H. rich and complex, so decadently delicious, you berry, cherry, beef jerky, black pepper and spice want to drink the whole bottle. Takes the black- flavors, and a sweet coating of smoky oak. Zinfan- Miro 2008 Petite Sirah (Dry Creek berries and black currants of Cabernet Sauvi- del, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, in roughly 87 Valley); $23. A beautiful Petite Sirah gnon, merges them with Syrah’s bacon and equal parts. —S.H. that takes the variety’s wild berry and spice flavors pepper, flirts with Grenache’s cherries, and then and big tannins and tames them down to ele- uplifts it all with Viognier’s citrusy brightness and Kendall-Jackson 2007 Vintner’s gance. It’s dry and moderate in alcohol, which is acidity. A compelling wine that will hold through 90 Reserve Summation (California); always a consideration with Petite Sirah. A minor 2013. —S.H. $14. You’ll be hard pressed to find a better wine quibble is excessive softness. Drink now. —S.H. at this price. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sanguis 2007 Backseat Betty (Cal- Merlot and Zinfandel, sourced only from coastal St. Amant Winery 2007 The Road 93 ifornia); $60. The grapes for this mar- counties, it’s totally dry, full bodied, firm in tan- 87 Less Travelled Tempranillo velous Rhône blend come from various vineyards nins and drinkable now for its wealth of black- (Amador County); $18. This 100% in the Santa Ynez Valley. The blend is 83% Syrah, berry, currant, black cherry and oak flavors. Tempranillo will linger with you for a while, a real 14% Grenache and 3% Viognier. The aroma is Production was 52,000 cases. Best Buy. —S.H. thinking wine that takes time to reveal its power. marked by the scent of white pepper, black Properly tannic—have a hearty meal at the cherry liqueur, dark chocolate and buttered toast, Autonom 2007 Red Wine (Califor- ready—the St. Amant is structurally sound and yet with similar flavors. It’s rich to the point of deca- 88 nia); $28. Rich, soft and fruity, this concentrated with sweet notes of toffee, vanilla dence, yet balanced and minerally. New oak to Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre blend is and brown sugar on the finish, its dark fruit both the tune of 65% is easily integrated. Drink now. delightful to drink now. It’s totally dry, with inter- subtle and ripe. From the foothills of Amador —S.H. esting berry, cherry, smoked meat, black pepper County on a relatively cool site, the wine is aged in and sandalwood flavors that are deep and long- both French and American oak (35% new). —V.B. Arger-Martucci 2006 Cabernet lasting. —S.H. 92 Franc (Napa Valley); $35. One of the Star Angel by Montes 2007 Aure- best Cab Francs on the market. This is a variety Murrieta’s Well 2007 Zarzuela 87 lio’s Selection (Paso Robles); $60. that can be one-dimensional on its own, but 88 (Livermore Valley); $29. A well- A Rhône-style blend that’s rich in cola, blackberry

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 and cherry jam and oak flavors. The tannins are wine hot in the mouth. That’s the main impres- Diatom 2009 Drum Canyon fine and ripe, while acidity is on the soft side, giv- sion, because the sweetness and fruit aren’t quite 93 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills); $36. ing the wine a certain directness. Yet it’s nicely strong enough to balance the heat. Nonetheless A transparent, translucent Chardonnay whose dry and clean. Drink now. —S.H. it’s pretty sweet, with blackberry jam and choco- pure fruit and minerals star. It’s unoaked and did late flavors. —S.H. not undergo the malolactic fermentation. Shows Westside Red NV Troublemaker delicate but complex layers of lime, orange blos- 87 Blend 1 (Paso Robles); $20. This is a som, Asian pear and lychee, framed in crisp acid- blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre. It’s a CALIFORNIA ity and finishing long and spicy. —S.H. bit soft in structure, but nice and dry, and the blackberry, leather, pepper and cedar flavors are WHITE WINES Flora Springs 2009 Barrel Fer- elaborate. Drink now. —S.H. 92 mented Chardonnay (Napa Val- CHARDONNAY ley); $30. What a pretty Chardonnay. Complex Miro 2008 Petite Sirah (Rockpile); and intricate, it has detailed pineapple, golden 86 $30. Soft and approachable, this Petite Diatom 2009 Babcock Vineyard mango and pear flavors that suggest very ripe Sirah has easy tannins and rich blackberry, funky 94 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills); $48. growing conditions. Yet it’s dry and balanced in meat, cola and cedar flavors. Ready now. —S.H. You can find almost anything you want in this the finish, not jammy. Don’t drink this beauty too intricate wine, it’s that complex. Shows brilliant cold. —S.H. Fiesta del Pomar Junction 2007 lucidity and a simple purity, like a Japanese gar- 85 Red Wine (Central Coast); $34. den. The mineral, wet stone, Asian pear, honey Foley 2008 Barrel Select Chardon- This blend of Zinfandel, Merlot and Cabernet tangerine and lime flavors are so unctuous, it’s 92 nay (Sta. Rita Hills); $35. Superrich, Sauvignon is soft and slightly sweet, like a dessert. hard to believe the wine saw no oak. —S.H. made in the modern style of exceptionally ripe Tastes like a melted mélange of blackberry and fruit and lots of oak. Floods the mouth with cherry jam, milk chocolate granola and dusty Diatom 2009 Huber Vineyard pineapple, pear, green apple butter, buttered spices. Drink now. —S.H. 94 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills); $48. toast and crême brûlée flavors, accented with This is the richest of Diatom’s 2009 unoaked brisk acidity. —S.H. Pietra Santa 2007 Sangiovese Chards. It’s wildly expressive in tangerines, white 85 (Cienega Valley); $18. A fruity, soft, truffles and honey, braced with a pleasing mineral- Melville 2009 Estate Chardonnay enjoyable red wine for drinking now. It’s medium ity. The alcohol is quite high, but an integral part of 92 (Sta. Rita Hills); $26. This rich, bodied and lightly oaked, with sour cherry candy the wine’s oily, glyceriney mouthfeel. —S.H. creamy Chardonnay has fine acidity, while a and pepper spice flavors. —S.H. touch of neutral oak adds a background of but- Melville 2009 Clone 76 Inox tered toast. But the fruit stars, brimming with Tamás Estates 2008 Double 94 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills); $36. papayas, mangos, Meyer lemons, limes and 85 Decker Red (California); $10. A rus- Brilliantly clean and pure. Just so expressive and pineapples. The finish is filled with honey, and tic, rugged and perfectly good red wine, full- refined, with a crystalline mouthfeel. Rich, alive, yet is brisk and dry. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. bodied enough to drink with robust meat stews. vibrant and crisp, with spicy Asian pear and citrus It’s tannic and dry and strong in blackberry jam flavors. The finish is dry and long. Just 872 cases Peter Franus 2009 Chardonnay flavors. Best Buy. —S.H. were produced. —S.H. 92 (Carneros); $32. A very rich Chard made in the modern California style of excep- Courtney Benham 2009 Lucca Mount Eden 2007 Estate Bottled tional ripeness and lots of toasty oak. Tastes full- 84 (Paso Robles); $15. This is a sound, 94 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Moun- bodied, almost sweet in pineapple, orange, rustic red wine. It’s comprised of undisclosed vari- tains); $55. This is a big, vital Chardonnay brim- buttered toast and crême brulée flavors, fortu- eties, but tastes basically like a Rhône blend, with ming with fresh acids and oak, whose underlying nately balanced with crisp acidity. Drink now. simple cherry, cola, herb and oak flavors. —S.H. pineapple, pear and lemon-lime flavors are deli- —S.H. cious. Despite the richness, it’s dry and crisp in Westwood 2006 redFOUR acidity, with a minerally tang. Drink now. —S.H. Artesa 2009 Chardonnay 84 (Sonoma Valley); $24. An offbeat 91 (Carneros); $18. Artesa’s dual fermen- blend of red and white varieties, this is a simple, Sanguis 2008 The Narrow & tation approach, in which oak-barrel and stain- fruity, tart wine. The raspberry and cherry flavors 94 Straight (California); $60. A massive less-steel-tank fermentation are used, has have an edge of lime acidity. —S.H. wine, just tremendous. Made from 97% Chardon- resulted in this startlingly appealing Chardonnay. nay and 3% Viognier, it’s extraordinarily rich and Braced with Carneros acidity, it shows mineral- concentrated in grilled pineapple, pear, peach and infused orange, lemon and mango flavors, with a FORTIFIED WINE lime flavors, with a coating of sweet, vanilla-scented smooth coating of toasty oak. —S.H crême brûlée. There’s an authoritative minerality Williams Selyem 2004 Mistral all the way through that grounds and sustains the Laetitia 2009 Estate Chardonnay 87 Vineyard Port (Central Coast); fruit. The grapes come from warmer vineyards 91 (Arroyo Grande Valley); $18. From $40. High alcohol of 20% makes this dessert throughout Santa Barbara County. —S.H. one of the coolest vineyards on the Central Coast,

WineMag.com | 7 3 BUYING I GUIDE this Chardonnay’s acidity is brisk and bright. It nay. It’s a little heavy with all that caramel and Beringer 2008 Chardonnay (Napa provides a balance to the enormously rich, long buttered toast, but acidity brightens the pineap- 86 Valley); $16. A nice, smooth Chardon- hangtime flavors of pineapples and other fruits ple and peach flavors, and the finish is clean and nay, with ripe fruit and cream and lots of oaky that are tropical in their exotic richness. New oak spicy. —S.H. buttered toast. Made in the popular California provides the perfect touch of caramel and vanilla style. —S.H. toast. A great price for a Chardonnay this good. Carneros Highway 2009 Nueva Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 87 Chardonnay (Carneros); $18. A Beringer 2008 Private Reserve delicious Chardonnay made in the California 86 Chardonnay (Napa Valley); $35. Williams Selyem 2008 Hawk Hill style of ripeness. It’s fortunately balanced with Too much oak on this Chardonnay. It’s dominated Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian 91 acidity, which balances the sweet pineapple and by the aromas and flavors of buttered toast and River Valley); $50. Made in the ultraripe style honey flavors, but needs to be a bit drier. —S.H. caramelized, vanilla accented wood. Underneath that is Williams Selyem Chardonnay, this wine all that are some pretty good pineapple, peach almost needs to be enjoyed by itself as a cocktail. Foppiano 2009 Chardonnay (Russ- and pear flavors. —S.H. It’s explosive in apricot jam, pineapple tart, pear ian River Valley); $20. A solid crême brûlée, buttered toast and cinnamon spice 87 Chardonnay, dry, oaky and rich, with nice, crisp Rodney Strong 2009 Chardonnay flavors that feel fat and dry and slightly hot in acidity. Satisfies for its creamy wealth of pinap- 86 (Sonoma County); $19. Shows all the alcohol. Not particularly subtle, but earns points ples, limes, pears and minerals. —S.H. hallmarks of a fine Chard, except complexity. It’s for sheer power. —S.H. dry, creamy and smoky in oak and lees influences, with flavors of pineapples and peaches. Easy to Sobriquet Winery 2009 Chardon- Frog’s Leap 2009 Chardonnay (Napa Valley); $26. find, with 250,000 cases produced. —S.H. 90 nay (Santa Maria Valley); $32. A 87 A good, everyday Chard. It’s sweet in caramelly oak, vanilla, but- good, brisk Chardonnay that provides nice drink- Wrath 2008 Fermata Chardonnay ing now and has extra layers of elegance and tered toast, pineapple jam and butterscotch fla- (Monterey); $43. Fancy and oaky, complexity. The wine shows the fresh acidity of vors, with just in time acidity to make it finish 86 with crisp acidity balancing strong pineapple, its cool-climate origin, and very ripe pineapple clean and brisk. —S.H. green apple and new oak flavors. A modern style and peach flavors that come from a long, clean Chardonnay to drink now. —S.H. vintage. Don’t drink it too cold, as it gets better Martin Ray 2009 Herrick Vineyard near room temperature. —S.H. Reserve Chardonnay (Russian 87 Bogle 2009 Chardonnay (Califor- River Valley); $25. Tart in acidity, this has nia); $10. Another good value from Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2008 strong flavors of caramelized oak, pineapple jam, 85 Bogle. This Chardonnay is creamy and sweet in Arcadia Vineyard Chardonnay green apples and buttered toast. It will satisfy 90 pineapples, pears and buttered toast, but has (Napa Valley); $50. A rich, smooth and spicy your Chardonnay sweet tooth. —S.H. zesty acidity. Production was 250,000 cases. Best Chardonnay, very minerally and crisp, with flavors Buy. —S.H. of wet stone, peach, citrus, white pepper and Mueller 2007 LB Chardonnay smoky wood. Feels tight and elegant and complex (Russian River Valley); $32. 87 Very Inception 2009 Chardonnay in the mouth. More food friendly than some of ripe in fruit, with good acidity and lots of smoky (Santa Barbara County); $20. the creamier, sweeter Chards out there. —S.H. 85 A oak. Made in the jammy style of California modern, popular Chardonnay made with very Chardonnay, it has sweet flavors of pineapples, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2008 ripe tropical and pear fruit flavors and a strong papayas and buttered toast. Drink now as a cock- Karia Chardonnay (Napa Valley); oaky influence. Not very subtle, but will satisfy 89 tail, or try with a rich shellfish risotto. —S.H. $35. With just a hint of oak, this Chardonnay is fans of the style. —S.H. all about fruit and acidity. It’s dry and crisp, with a Old World 2008 Tweek Block firm, clean mouthfeel, and pleasant citrus, apple, Landmark 2008 Overlook Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast); $20. pear and mineral flavors. —S.H. 87 85 Chardonnay (Sonoma County- An exotic, dry and crisp Chardonnay, with plenty Santa Barbara County); $28. This is a bot- Perception 2007 Sangiacomo of toasty oak. Shows a mélange of dried orange, tling that has lost or given up considerable quality 88 Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma pineapple and pear fruit, with a minerally note. over the years. It now has a mass-produced, Coast); $55. Shows lots of new oak in the but- There’s a feral quality that may be the result of industrial feel. Made in the popular style, it’s tery toast and sweet vanilla char flavors that ride native yeasts. Drink now. —S.H. creamy, sweet and ripe in citrus, tropical fruit and high over the pineapple jam, soft ripe pear and oak flavors, with no particular complexity. —S.H. papayas. A clean, creamy Chardonnay for drink- Perception 2008 Chardonnay ing now. —S.H. 87 (Russian River Valley); $38. This Little Black Dress 2009 Chardon- rich, oaky Chardonnay has aromas and flavors of 85 nay (California); $11. Sweet in honey Arrowood 2007 Réserve Spéciale buttered toast, buttered popcorn, vanilla and and caramel flavors, but balanced with crisp acid- 87 Unfined Chardonnay (Sonoma pineapple jam. It’s very rich and creamy, and ity, this everyday Chard delivers strong pineapple, County); $40. This is a big, rich, oaky Chardon- appeals for sheer deliciouness. —S.H. lemon meringue pie and peach flavors. —S.H.

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 Lander-Jenkins 2009 Spirit Hawk Beringer 2008 Sauvignon Blanc lime, peach, melon and lemongrass flavors, 84 Chardonnay (California); $15. Soft 90 (Napa Valley); $16. So dry and racy, brightened with crisp acidity. —S.H. and simple, this has apricot, peach and cream fla- so mouthwateringly interesting in citrus fruits, vors that finish sweet and jammy. —S.H. green grass and minerals, it makes you think of all Rock Hollow 2009 Sauvignon sorts of foods to drink it with. Try with vegetable 87 Blanc (Santa Barbara County); Angeline 2009 Reserve Chardon- tempura, smoked meats, garlic mashed potatoes, $12. From two vineyards located in the warmer 83 nay (Sonoma County-Santa Bar- roasted chicken. Production was more than 4,500 part of Santa Ynez Valley, this Sauvignon Blanc bara County); $14. A little sweet and rustic, cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. was mostly fermented in stainless steel, with a but rich in pineapple jam and buttered toast fla- portion in neutal oak. The result is a nice, rich vors. Brisk acidity helps to balance out the sugary Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2008 and creamy wine, slightly sweet in citrus, apricot taste. —S.H. 90 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley); and vanilla bean flavors, and balanced with crisp $26. Here’s a rich, complex and utterly delightful acidity. Best Buy. —S.H. Pavilion 2009 Reserve Chardon- Sauvignon Blanc whose flavors range from Meyer 83 nay (North Coast); $12. This sweet, lemons and papayas to green melons and figs. Vogelzang 2009 Sauvignon Blanc oaky and simple Chardonnay has soft flavors of The richness is balanced by fine acidity and min- 87 (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara); pineapple and caramel. —S.H. erals, and the finish is nice and dry. —S.H. $28. Massively ripe in pineapples, limes, green apples and lemons, this Sauvignon Blanc is clean Rock Hollow 2009 Vintner’s Selec- Beringer 2008 Alluvium Blanc and brisk in acidity. It’s an upscale, fancy white 82 tion Chardonnay (Santa Barbara 88 Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon wine that finishes just a little sweet in jam. —S.H. County); $12. Lots of oak on this Chardonnay, (Knights Valley); $17. As always, Beringer’s Illumination 2009 Sauvignon but it’s awkward, and feels overworked and Alluvium blend is a complex white wine, meant Blanc (Napa Valley); $40. A crisp sweetly simple, despite some pretty pineapple to pair with good food. The '08 is comprised of 86 wine, dry and clean, with citrus, green apple and jam flavors. —S.H. Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Chardonnay and lemongrass flavors. A small percentage of new Viognier. It’s fruity, crisp and dry. —S.H. oak adds toast, while sur lie aging brings a tart SAUVIGNON BLANC Fiddlehead 2005 Hunnysuckle creaminess. Pretty good, but it’s a little too unripe 87 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Val- and green to earn a higher score. —S.H. Fiddlehead 2009 Goosebury ley); $34. At the age of five-plus, this 100% Lake Sonoma 2009 Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Val- Sauvignon Blanc is showing some mileage. It’s 92 Blanc (Dry Creek Valley); $14. Good ley); $34. A perfect evocation of how beauti- losing freshness, with dried pineapple, apricot 86 price for a clean, zesty Sauvignon Blanc. Shows fully Sauvignon Blanc expresses itself in the and peach flavors emerging, and an edge of sweet and sour candy flavors of pineapples, Happy Canyon area of the Santa Ynez Valley. cashews and dried herbs. Yet it remains lively and lemons and limes, with a touch of vanilla. —S.H. With no oak, and without the malolactic fermen- clean. If you’re unfamiliar with an older Sauvi- tation, what you get is pure fruit. Crisp, mouth- gnon Blanc, try it. Fully ready now. —S.H. Fiddlehead 2007 Happy Canyon watering acidity frames beautiful flavors of Meyer Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Val- Firestone 2009 Sauvignon Blanc 82 lemons, limes, peaches, minerals and, yes, goose- ley); $25. A problematic wine, with unripe, (Santa Ynez Valley); $13. berries. What a wonderful food wine. —S.H. 87 This is a green flavors. The citrus fruits are marred by the dry, racy wine. It fulfills Sauvignon Blanc’s first herbal taste of boiled vegetables. —S.H. Grassini 2007 Sauvignon Blanc duty of mouthwatering cleanliness and savory 92 (Santa Ynez Valley); $45. Pretty, acidity. Drink it now as a cocktail sipper, with a polished and perfumed with citrus, hay, new oaky shrimp cocktail or with spicy Thai and Viet- PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO vanilla and white pepper aromas, this is a deli- namese fare. —S.H. cious, complex 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Complete La Rochelle 2009 Mark’s Vineyard malolactic fermentation gives it an attractively Joseph Phelps 2009 Sauvignon 90 Pinot Gris (Arroyo Seco); $24. Bril- soft butteriness. Don’t drink this wine too cold. 87 Blanc (St. Helena); $32. Dry and liant, mouthwatering acidity marks this refresh- —S.H. acidic, this Sauvignon Blanc has flavors of citrus ingly clean wine. It’s very ripe, showing pineapple fruits, apricots, green grass, vanilla, buttered toast and lemon sour candy, papaya, green melon and Artesa 2009 Limited Release and white pepper. It’s quite a good wine, if a little vanilla spice flavors. Straddles the border 91 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley); expensive. —S.H. between bone dry and just off-dry, although the $24. The grapes for this wonderful Sauvignon honeyed sweetness might not show up officially. Blanc come from the cooler Oak Knoll region. Murphy-Goode 2009 The Fumé Great with Thai, Vietnamese and Asian-fusion They were partially barrel-fermented, which 87 Sauvignon Blanc (North Coast); fare. —S.H. gives a creamy, smoky pie crust sweetness to the $13. A huge advancement over the precious vin- citrus, tropical fruit, pear and green apple flavors. tage, representing new decisions by the winery. Pietra Santa 2009 Pinot Grigio Production was only 750 cases. —S.H. It’s a rich, easy-drinking wine, showing delightful 83 (Cienega Valley); $18. No oak on this

WineMag.com | 7 5 BUYING I GUIDE simple, fairly sweet Pinot Grigio. It has pineap- Jaffurs 2009 Viognier (Santa Bar- power. Almost sweet, but the finish turns dry and ple, peach, lemonade and mineral flavors, with a 92 bara County); $27. Expresses Viog- clean, with a flourish of acidity. —S.H. suggestion of unripeness. —S.H. nier’s ripe, exotically lush side, with strong flavors of tropical papayas and golden mangos, spicy tan- Artesa 2009 Limited Release Pinot gerines, Key lime pie and tangy green apple jam 92 Blanc (Carneros); $24. One of the RIESLING flavors. Neutral oak gives a needed touch of best Pinot Blancs of this or any vintage. It was creaminess, while a crisp burst of acidity provides mostly fermented in stainless steel, with about Pey-Marin 2009 The Shell Mound clean balance. A beautiful, dry and versatile wine. one-fifth in new French oak. Just beautiful, with 93 Riesling (Marin County); $26. Pey- —S.H. the creamy lushness of a fine Chardonnay. The Marin’s Rieslings have been among the greatest fruit flavor is all about ripe, zesty citrus, spicy in California, and their 2009 is one of their best Cimarone 2009 3CV Vogelzang pears, tangerines and tangy green apples. —S.H. yet. The wine is entirely unoaked, and did not 89 Vineyard Viognier (Happy Canyon undergo the malolactic fermentation, but it was of Santa Barbara); $18. Shows the exoticness Jaffurs 2009 Thompson Vineyard aged on its lees. That allows the acidity to star, of Viognier, with crisp acidity and a dry minerality 92 Grenache Blanc (Santa Barbara and what brilliant acidity it is. Rich and bone dry that gets the tastebuds whistling. The lime, County); $30. Very rich, creamy and delicious. in steel, mineral, slate, citrus, white peach and quince, apricot, white flower and woodspice fla- Feels full-bodied and oaky in the mouth, although Champagne yeast flavors, it takes California Ries- vors finish with the tart briskness of a Sauvignon there’s no new wood, showing vanilla, buttered ling in a whole different direction. Editors’ Blanc, only more opulent. —S.H. toast and honey flavors adding to the peaches, Choice. —S.H. pears, mangoes, tangerines, limes and spices. An Ojai 2008 Roll Ranch Viognier exotic alternative to Chardonnay. —S.H. Ojai 2009 Kick On Ranch Riesling 88 (California); $26. This is a very sweet 90 (Santa Barbara County); $24. A Viognier, with lots of honey, brown sugar, vanilla Artesa 2009 Limited Release pretty, polished and crisp Riesling that straddles and cream flavors. It’s rich and unctuous, but the Albariño (Carneros); $22. The com- the line between dry and off-dry. It’s high in orange and peach flavors could be a little more 91 bination of stainless-steel and oak-barrel fermen- acidity, making the citrus, green apple, peach and concentrated. —S.H. tation has been good for this wine. It’s bright and jasmine flavors mouthwatering and clean. A steely in acidity, and lifts the variety’s mineral and beautiful wine to drink now. —S.H. Arrowood 2008 Saralee’s Vine- citrus flavors to new heights, adding a rich level yard Viognier (Russian River Val- 87 of smoky cream. Just beautiful and versatile at Firestone 2009 Riesling (Central ley); $30. This 100% Viognier shows the the table, a sommelier’s dream wine. Production Coast); $13. California Riesling seems variety’s exotic side, with delicious tropical fruit, 89 was a mere 850 cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. to be making a comeback and if it is, it’s thanks to citrus, pear, melon, lychee and smoky oak flavors. inexpensive but wonderful wines like this. It’s It’s a bit one-dimensional, but appeals for its fresh Cartograph 2009 Floodgate Vine- dryish to off dry, with beautiful acidity and deli- acids and richness. —S.H. yard Gewürztraminer (Russian cious flavors of citrus fruits, green apples, pears, 91 River Valley); $22. An exciting Gewürz, one of honeyed jasmine tea and vanilla bean. Just beau- tiful for drinking now. Best Buy. —S.H. OTHER WHITE WINES the best out there. Shows the variety’s exotic spiciness and muskiness, with underlying orange, Gainey 2009 Limited Selection Sanguis 2007 Acromion (Califor- honeydew melon, lychee, pear and kumquat fla- 88 Riesling (Santa Ynez Valley); $15. 93 nia); $70. Mainly Roussanne, with a vors, brightened by wonderful acidity. No oak was A nice, refreshing Riesling, clean and crisp, with dollop of Viognier, this brilliant white wine is used in the production, and the finish is totally rich flavors of citrus fruits, minerals, honeysuckle largely from the Santa Valley, which accounts for dry. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. and jasmine. The residual sugar is .63%, making its brilliant ripeness. Just massive in white flow- it just a litt off-dry. No oak on this polished gem. ers, fresh white peaches, yellow apricots, pears, Zocker 2009 Paragon Vineyard —S.H. sautéed bananas, toasted coconut, vanilla and 90 Grüner Veltliner (Edna Valley); firm minerals. Lots of new oak, but the underly- $20. A beautiful wine with a spine of steel and ing wine easily supports it. A tremendous, trenchant acidity that demands savory, spicy VIOGNIER impressive wine. —S.H. foods. It’s brilliantly ripe in mineral-infused Meyer lemon and spicy green melon, and while Sanguis 2008 Fractured Flowers Sanguis 2008 Ramshackle & it’s technically dry, has a rich, honeyed sweetness. 95 Viognier (California); $60. This 100% 93 Threadbare (California); $45. Made Entirely unoaked. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Viognier was grown in the Bien Nacido Vineyard. from an unusual blend of Roussanne, Malvasia It’s bone dry, crisp in acidity and firm in wet stone Bianca and Viognier, with the grapes grown in the Firestone 2009 Gewürztraminer minerals, while the rich fruit flavors suggest fresh, Santa Maria and Santa Ynez valleys of Santa Bar- 89 (Santa Ynez Valley); $13. Thank juicy citron, quince and sweet lime. Just wonder- bara. The wine is strongly flavored, offering waves goodness some wineries continue to be dedicated ful, a bracing, pure, clean and pure example of a of apricot jam, lychee, pineapples and honey, with to Gewürz, and Firestone deserves special men- variety that can often be fussy. —S.H. a very long, spicy finish. Dazzles for its depth and tion for producing this dry, elegant and afford-

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 able bottling. There’s nothing like its spicy, exotic well-defined layers of flavor. Black cherry, cassis, Cadence 2007 Cara Mia Vineyard fruit and flower flavors. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. lead pencil, smoke and baking spices are tightly 92 Camerata (Red Mountain); $55. stacked and particularly apparent in the aromas. Forceful, dense and balanced, this is 85% Caber- Bonterra 2009 Bartolucci Vineyard Give this one a decade or more in the cellar; if net Sauvignon, with compact and powerful black 88 Muscat (Lake County); $16. Good you are drinking now, decant for at least two fruits, and lots of dust and graphite. Classic New price for a zesty, sweet dessert wine. It’s a nice hours. Cellar Selection. —P.G. World-Bordeaux styling, with elegance, breed way to finish dinner over something with white and depth. Gives cassis, hints of mushroom, and yellow fruit, vanilla and custard ingredients. Barnard Griffin 2007 Reserve hints of herb, and all the mixed variables of bar- Shows rich, honeyed orange, apricot and honey 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia rel and site. —P.G. flavors, with tingly acidity. —S.H. Valley); $40. Pure Cabernet Sauvignon, this brings full-on dark fruits, smoke, licorice and Cadence 2007 Cara Mia Vineyard Nadia 2008 Santa Barbara High- black-tea flavors into the core palate. Despite its 91 Bel Canto (Red Mountain); $55. 88 lands Vineyard White Wine power, the wine has a sculpted quality, a nice Immediately approachable, with beautiful fruit (Santa Barbara County); $30. This is a blend sense of depth, yet with immediate appeal. The flavors right up front, though it has the depth to of Viognier, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. It’s tannins are polished and fine, the acids just right age also. Boasts blueberry, very pretty berry extraordinarily rich in peach, pear, citrus and to give the wine crisp edges and focus. —P.G. fruits, just a hint of barrel and the classic honeysuckle flavors, and is marked by zesty acid- Cadence terroir-driven impression of chalk in the ity, with a buttercreamy, oaky note. Interesting Col Solare 2007 Red Table Wine tannins that runs through all Cadence wines as a and complex. Try as an exotic alternative to a big 94 (Columbia Valley); $70. An excellent defining characteristic. Finishes with iron filings, Chardonnay. —S.H. Col Solare; the best yet. It has suppleness and more berry and just a smidge of balsamic. —P.G. structure, with a panoply of fruits, from cassis to Gordon Brothers 2007 Tradition slightly candied cherries. The barrel notes are Red (Columbia Valley); $30. Gor- SWEET WINES here in proportion, adding toast and coffee and 91 don Brothers Tradition is a reserve made only in chocolate, and the tannins are firm and polished. Joseph Phelps 2009 Eisrébe (Napa select vintages. In 2007 everything comes A strong core leads into a tight, confident finish. Valley); $50. Made from the exotic together, creating a wine with genuine elegance 95 Cellar Selection. —P.G. Scheurebe grape, this is a very sweet wine, brim- and grace. The fruit blends blackberry, cassis, ming with pineapple jam, ripe pear and honey- plum and black cherry; all dusted with barrel Cadence 2007 Tapteil (Red Moun- suckle flavors, with an oily, glyceriney fatness. It’s spice and finished with a toasty shell. The tan- tain); $45. Lovely aromas are a perfect balanced with crisp acidity, so the finish is dry 93 nins are supple and fine, and the balance impec- mix of dust, rock, cassis and black fruits; the flavors and clean. Just delicious now with fruity desserts, cable. Give this another 6–8 years in the cellar if carry so much detail that it’s hard to catalog it all. vanilla cake or a buttery lemon soufflé. —S.H. possible. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Subtle but well defined, they cascade over and Beringer 2006 Nightingale Sauvi- around each other in a gentle profusion—there is Januik 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon black cherry, then rock, then lead pencil, then 93 gnon Blanc-Sémillon (Napa Val- 91 (Columbia Valley); $30. This is ley); $40/375 ml. This blend of Sémillon and some smoke, then a whiff of licorice, and so on. A immediately drinking very well. It is a textbook Sauvignon Blanc in a half bottle is very sweet, fascinating wine with good aging potential. —P.G. Washington Cabernet—firm, muscular and lay- with a residual sugar of 11.8%. That decadent, ered—but with immediate appeal. The blend is Barrister 2007 Sagemoor Caber- honeyed richness is delicious, and so are the apri- 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot, 2% Cab cot and tangerine fruit flavors. Drink now, and 92 net Sauvignon (Columbia Valley); Franc and 2% Malbec. The tannins are silky and don’t let it get too cold. —S.H. $33. This is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Mer- mouthcoating; and the elegant fruit flavors lay out lot and 10% Syrah. Deeply fruity, dark and juicy, beautifully with plenty of fat in the back. —P.G. with huge berry flavors, but there is more to it— WASHINGTON the flavors dig deeper, going into earth and spice Arbor Crest 2008 Five Vineyards and olive and toast. The fruit is the star here, and 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia RED WINES it’s amazingly young and still primary. Where will Valley); $18. An excellent mix of Wahluke Slope, this go? It’ll be fun to find out. —P.G. Columbia Basin and Royal Slope vineyards go into CABERNET & BLENDS this blend. A rich nose is loaded with chocolate, Cadence 2007 Ciel du Cheval (Red sandalwood, and cherry confit. In the mouth this Januik 2007 Champoux Vineyard 92 Mountain); $45. A strong vintage at a has firm tannins, cassis and plum fruit, a lovely 95 Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse star vineyard brings a tight, chewy wine of great wrap of mocha and a lick of caramel. —P.G. Heaven Hills); $50. This includes grapes from character. Black and blue fruits, a firm and full vein Block One (the 1972 planting) and several other of mineral and graphite, and an overriding sense of Barnard Griffin 2008 Lot 411 more recent plantings at Champoux; essentially restrained power. This is a wine that may require 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia this is pure Cabernet Sauvignon. It smells like a some years in the bottle to open up, but with Valley); $17. Forward and tasty, with violets on fine Bordeaux, still very young and tight, with decanting can be enjoyed immediately. —P.G. the nose and a friendly mix of plum, cherry and

WineMag.com | 7 7 BUYING I GUIDE cassis fruit, dotted with cut tobacco, and finished of dry earth and black olive. A lovely finish with a Januik 2007 Merlot (Columbia Val- with exceptionally smooth and polished tannins. kiss of sweet fruit. Best Buy. —P.G. 91 ley); $25. This strong and supple Mer- There are chocolaty barrel notes and a seamless- lot brings finesse and power to play, mixing black ness to the whole wine that shouts quality all the Columbia Crest 2007 Reserve fruits with veins of coffee, dark chocolate, and a way. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia hint of pepper. Small percentages of Cabernets Valley); $27. A restrained and somewhat back- Sauvignon and Franc add muscle, but Merlot is Boudreaux Cellars 2006 Cham- ward reserve, this is hiding its fruit behind a dry, the star here, firm and persistent, streaked with 90 poux & Loess Vineyards Reserve somewhat earthy, wall of tannin. There are inter- smoke and finished with butterscotch. —P.G. Cabernet Sauvignon (Washington); $100. esting nuances of seed, leaf and stem, along with Tight when first opened, with polished fruit fla- a base fruit flavor of raspberry/cranberry, and the Novelty Hill 2007 Columbia Valley vors of blackberry and cassis, mingling with bar- wine persists into a slightly bitter finish, but it 89 Merlot (Columbia Valley); $22. rel accents of anise and clove. The alcohol, listed seems to be holding itself back. A second bottle Novelty Hill’s Merlot includes 6% Cabernet at 13.5%, does not indicate the weight and power was better, with a little more fruit. —P.G. Sauvignon and a splash of Cab Franc; the wine is of the wine. One caveat—there is a chalky after- beautifully proportioned and silky in the mouth. taste from the combination of very dry tannins Hogue 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Smooth fruits mix berries with chocolate, all and citrusy acids. —P.G. 87 (Columbia Valley); $11. Scents of buoyed up on just the right amount of acidity. blueberries and darker fruits come with a curious This is elegant and pretty, more than a powerful Novelty Hill 2007 Stillwater Creek floral/citrus top note, but in the mouth the wine wine, but there is plenty of ripe fruit flavor and a 90 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is all fruit and berries. The blend includes a pat of buttery toast in the finish. —P.G. (Columbia Valley); $30. Instantly gratifying, splash of Syrah and Lemberger, along with a little with a smoky wreath around the bright cherry/ bit of Merlot, but it’s clearly Cab dominated. Arbor Crest 2008 Four Vineyards cassis fruit. Lots of pretty baking spices add detail Black olive, smoke, earth and firm tannins give it 88 Merlot (Columbia Valley); $15. as well, adding up to a full, round, forward, spicy, a feeling of authority in the mouth and through This is 100% varietal, spicy and tart, with fine flavorful wine. —P.G. the finish. Best Buy. —P.G. balance and focus. The fruit trends toward cherry and prune, with an earthy, tannic finish. —P.G. OS Winery 2006 Red (Columbia 90 Valley); $18. This is a gem—40% MERLOT & BLENDS Barnard Griffin 2008 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 30% Cab 88 (Columbia Valley); $17. Super Franc. Dense, fruity and salty, it also carries con- Barnard Griffin 2008 Ciel du smooth and open, this loose and lovely Merlot centrated chocolate and coffee flavors, surround- 92 Cheval Merlot (Red Mountain); coats the palate with pretty cherry and raspberry ing very rich cassis and black cherry fruits. A $35. A unique expression of this well-known fruit, slathered in tasty milk chocolatey oak. Not a superb value. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. vineyard, the Barnard Griffin Ciel du Cheval deep wine, but deeply enjoyable, and ready to vineyard Merlot has bright berry flavors, sharp drink right now. —P.G. Boudreaux Cellars 2006 Cabernet acidity, some cut tobacco flavors, and penetrating 89 Sauvignon (Washington); $50. minerality. The alcohol is listed at 14.4% and Columbia Crest 2008 Two Vines Aromas of prunes and figs introduce a big, thick, seems even lighter; the focus here is on elegance 87 Merlot-Cabernet (Washington); chewy Cabernet with plenty of fruit power. Black and clean fruit flavors, yet the wine leaves a $8. An honest effort that tastes as the these vari- raspberry, black cherry and black currant fruits strong finishing impression and does not limp eties should taste. Light red-fruit flavors suggest swirl through layers of smoky wood. Tannins are away. —P.G. brambly berries and cranberries with an under- quite astringent and drying. —P.G. tone of forest floor and wild mushroom. Acids Boudreaux Cellars 2006 Merlot taste natural, tannins are proportional, and the Cadence 2008 Coda (Red Moun- 92 (Washington); $40. A big-boned, rich mouthfeel is charmingly Bordeaux-like. Best 88 tain); $25. Tapteil, Ciel and Cara Mia 100% Merlot, this is a dark and chewy wine Buy. —P.G. vineyard fruit, a blend of 35% Cabernet Sauvi- whose cherry fruit is set amidst an explosion of gnon, 31% Merlot, 28% Cab Franc and 6% Petit hickory smoke, dark chocolate, and tar. The tan- Chateau Ste. Michelle 2008 Indian Verdot. Young and tight, with the characteristic nins—quite astringent and drying—suggest a 86 Wells Merlot (Columbia Valley); Cadence chalk and stone undertone. The fruit is long cellar life ahead. Drink it now or lay it down $18. Forward and spicy, this puts some muscle pretty strawberry, with a peppery herbal streak, for up to a decade. —P.G. into the Merlot with earthy, tongue-gripping tan- good length and fine balance. —P.G. nins. The fruit has a sweet tomato flavor, with a Barnard Griffin 2007 Reserve Mer- streak of cherry candy. Though not entirely knit Columbia Crest 2008 Grand 91 lot (Columbia Valley); $30. A pre- together, it’s a pleasant drink best enjoyed young. 88 Estates Cabernet Sauvignon cise and penetrating mix of black cherry fruit, cut —P.G. (Columbia Valley); $11. Substantial and tan- tobacco, and blended barrel notes that mix in nic, this affordable Cabernet has genuine grip streaks of clove, cinnamon, coffee and bitter Columbia Crest 2008 H3 Merlot and a fair amount of muscle. The fruit runs to chocolate, this wine has the structure and depth 86 (Horse Heaven Hills); $15. This sour cherry and plum; there is also a suggestion to age gracefully for another 6–8 years. —P.G. Horse Heaven Hills Merlot has a powerful clove

78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 flavor running right up the middle; along with it with the focus and tight profile you might expect. describe it. But it needs time—a lot of time. Cel- come streaks of vanilla and tobacco. What ele- Mineral flavors abound—chalk, graphite, and lar Selection. —P.G. vates it above cheaper wines with similar flavors granite— which underscore the bright cranberry is the structure and the penetration of the fruit, and currant fruit. This is a strikingly pure and well- Charles Smith 2007 Old Bones which has the vivid berry character of the region. defined Cab Franc. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 96 Stoneridge Vineyard Syrah The tannins are quite astringent. —P.G. (Columbia Valley); $140. This displays OS Winery 2008 Champoux Vine- extraordinary fruit flavors, along with a dense, Gordon Brothers 2008 Merlot 92 yard Cabernet Franc (Horse deep minerality. The flavors seamlessly blend 86 (Columbia Valley); $20. A young Heaven Hills); $28. The aromas are less berry, rock, graphite, fresh herb, and light barrel wine from a high-acid year, and it’s showing a fair volatile than the 2007 version; this captures the notes. But the fruit! Ripe and rich and aggres- amount of earth and green, herbal flavor. The fruit essential varietal character of the Cab Franc sively full bodied. Berries piled upon earth and seems just on the edge of ripe, with hints of bram- grape, with elements of bark, herb and earth. It is rock, and the flavors linger forever. —P.G. bly berry. Well balanced in a tough year. —P.G. more of a wine for purists, where the 2007 is for those who like hedonistic reds. —P.G. K Vintners 2007 The Deal Sun- Kamiak 2008 Rock Lake (Columbia 94 dance Vineyard Syrah (Wahluke 86 Valley); $15. The blend is 59% Merlot, OS Winery 2007 Champoux Vine- Slope); $35. Blood red, with a center almost 33% Syrah, and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the 91 yard Cabernet Franc (Horse black, and a smell like raw meat. A remarkable flavors mix well. There’s some not unpleasant Heaven Hills); $28. Very deep, very dark, with wine, cropped at well under 2 tons/acre and vini- volatile acidity and very tart, tangy red fruit fla- high-toned aromatics and dense black cherry and fied with roughly 50% whole clusters. Complex vors. All nicely integrated, and drinking pleas- black fruits. Smoke, toast, dark chocolate, mocha and aromatic, with a fruit jelly character that antly right now. —P.G. flavors all through it. Good length; the volatility is mixes exotic berries and black currants. This is a most apparent in the nose, not in the flavors. wine you can dive into and keep exploring; Heaven’s Cave 2008 Alder Ridge Exceptional fruit ripeness and depth. —P.G. beyond the luscious fruits are layers of herb and 82 Vineyard Inspiration Merlot cured meats and a vein of graphite. —P.G. (Horse Heaven Hills); $24. Quite dry and thin, with an odd mix of unripe fruit, sugary fruit, SYRAH K Vintners 2007 Northridge Syrah toasted seed and plastic. Just doesn’t sit well in 94 (Wahluke Slope); $35. This would the mouth. —P.G. Charles Smith 2007 Royal City qualify as a fruit bomb except it is so impeccably 99 Stoneridge Vineyard Syrah balanced, with fine-grained tannins and enough (Columbia Valley); $140. Depth and texture acidity to keep the lush berry fruit flavors from CABERNET FRANC dominate; it’s all whole-cluster fruit, aged in new becoming jammy. Boysenberry, blackberry, black barriques. This fine follow-up to the 2006 fea- cherry and cassis hold down a concentrated core; Barrister 2008 Cabernet Franc tures a little more delicacy, with a lovely floral the density of this wine is captivating. —P.G. 93 (Columbia Valley); $27. Compelling component and some earth. The depth is aston- aromas and flavors show a generous amount of ishing in the weight and texture and the way the K Vintners 2008 Milbrandt Syrah toasty oak, dappled with the ground coffee high- wine plays out across the palate. The finish never 92 (Wahluke Slope); $25. Loaded with lights that you find in ripe Cab Franc. Lovely ends: a glorious mix of black cherry, earth, herb, spice and mint, angular and focused, this extraor- purple fruits, compelling, tight, tart flavors, racy spice, and rock. Cellar Selection. —P.G. dinary offering has a core of strikingly deep rasp- and supple, with juicy fruit/berry flavors, fine tan- berry fruit. Around that core resonates a shell of nins, and a smooth, supple, lengthy finish. Edi- Charles Smith 2007 Heart Stoner- minty herb, further defined by sharp tannins with tors’ Choice. —P.G. 98 idge Vineyard Syrah (Columbia an aromatic sandalwood component. As it breathes Valley); $120. This initially tastes like young in the glass, it opens up further with cured, Januik 2007 Weinbau Vineyard fruit, herbal, with a lot of stem and flower fla- smoked meat flavors. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 93 Cabernet Franc (Wahluke Slope); vors, but with some heat at 16% alcohol. $35. Here the deep, dark cassis fruit flavors are Nonetheless it’s delicious, compact, enormously K Vintners 2007 Clifton Syrah accented with ground coffee, moist earth, and fruity, focused and flat out amazing. A perfect 92 (Wahluke Slope); $25. In the aromas buttery barrel flavors. A fine effort that captures mix of flesh, fruit, earth, and typicity from this are some organic, composty notes, some violets, the varietal character and smooches it with great unique vineyard. Cellar Selection. —P.G. and plenty of purple fruits. This wine has extra barrel management. The blend includes 10% grip in the mouth, drying tannins, quite ripe and Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. An elegant, Charles Smith 2007 Skull Stone- polished, and elevated with beautifully ripe fruit. deceptive wine, it needs your attention as it 97 bridge Vineyard Syrah (Columbia Veins of licorice and black olive run into the fin- shows itself gently. —P.G. Valley); $120. Killer juice. It has it all—focus, ish. —P.G. depth, detail and power. Spice and herb, punch Arbor Crest 2008 Connor Lee and power, wrapped into a wine with bright, tight Barnard Griffin 2008 Syrah 92 Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Colum- berry fruit and layer upon layer of earth, rock and 91 (Columbia Valley); $17. A fine bia Valley); $18. Single vineyard, pure varietal, herb. It surpasses the ability of language to expression of Washington Syrah, this is a lighter

WineMag.com | 7 9 BUYING I GUIDE style, and therefore more detailed with subtle ley); $28. Stillwater Creek may prove to be one notes of herb, citrus, earth, tart berries and more. SANGIOVESE of the great Grenache sites in Washington, which There is plenty of acidity, the tannins are pol- is experiencing a state-wide renaissance with the Barrister 2008 Kiona Vineyard ished into the background, and the barrel notes grape. This is a stellar effort, bursting with juicy Sangiovese (Red Mountain); $25. red fruit, bourbon barrel, candied cherries, and a bring in mocha and milk chocolate flavors. Acces- 90 This is pure Sangiovese, from the estate vineyard. finishing layer of sweet chocolate. Though it sible and elegant, this is a fine value. Editors’ This captures the varietal character nicely, with bursts onto the palate with a rainbow of fruit fla- Choice. —P.G. very pretty cherry and cranberry fruit, high acids, vor, it persists and shows both depth and length and a bright, accessible style. It tastes like young as well. Lovely. —P.G. Boudreaux Cellars 2006 Syrah vines, but shows enormous potential, with a 91 (Washington); $40. Sourced from the pleasing earthiness to the finish. The first Sangio Angel Vine 2008 The Hellion Red Wallula vineyard, this pure Syrah opens with a from Barrister. —P.G. 91 (Columbia Valley); $22. The Hellion pretty, floral top note over flavors of purple berries. is three-quarters Primitivo and the rest Petite Hints of dried herb and lavender bring complexity Boudreaux Cellars 2006 San- Sirah, sourced from a pair of excellent Washington giovese (Columbia Valley); $50. into the lightly chocolaty finish. —P.G. 88 vineyards. An explosion of ripe berries, it coats the Just a single barrel was made, pure Sangiovese palate with effusive fruit, but retains a balance and K Vintners 2007 M.C.K. Syrah from the Candy Mountain Vineyard. Tight, tart structure that includes details of spice, espresso, and dark, it captures black cherry fruit with black and bitter chocolate. Really well done, and an (Washington); $35. All Talcott vine- 91 licorice and a whiff of smoke. At this point in exceptional value. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. yard, but not labeled as such. This shows the time the tannins and acids seem to be fighting it alcohol a bit more than the others, but it also has out for control. —P.G. Barrister NV Rough Justice Red the sculpted tannins, the density and structure, 91 (Columbia Valley); $20. Primarily ’08 and the intensity of berry-fruit flavors that char- Novelty Hill 2007 Stillwater Creek Merlot, Syrah, and Cab Franc with some ’07 Cab acterize the entire K Syrah lineup. There is an 88 Vineyard Sangiovese (Columbia Sauv also. Once again this wine rocks; it has fruit interesting spicy top note that adds a bit of per- Valley); $25. This has a little bit of Cabernet power, punch and presence. The flavors mingle fume to the flavor also. —P.G. Sauvignon (5%) and Merlot (2%), winemaker seamlessly, young fruit with an attitude. Spicy, Mike Januik say it’s there “to beef up the struc- highlighted berry and plum flavors, with baking K Vintners 2007 Pheasant Vine- ture.” The Sangiovese brings the acid, and tart spice details, and some finishing heat. Editors’ fruits with a hint of leaf and tomato. Still young Choice. —P.G. yard Syrah (Wahluke Slope); $35. 90 vines, but showing great promise. —P.G. This is also a Milbrandt vineyard, but quite differ- McCrea Cellars 2008 Grenache ent flavors emerge from the other Milbrandt wines. 91 (Yakima Valley); $28. Big and juicy, Plenty of black cherry fruit, with a minerality that OTHER RED WINES this full throttle Grenache screams across the suggests iron ore. Penetrating, ripe and potent palate with a load of spicy cherry, brambly berry, (15% alcohol), yet well balanced and complex, with Barnard Griffin 2008 Malbec and bourbon-soaked plum flavors. Tannins are wild herbs lurking in the background. —P.G. 92 (Columbia Valley); $35. A lovely toasty and the finish leaves a pleasingly bitter cof- Malbec, with a strong floral component that fee impression. —P.G. McCrea Cellars 2006 Amerique begins with the aromas but carries nicely into the palate. It’s like tasting flowers, but with red wine McCrea Cellars 2007 Sirocco 88 Syrah (Yakima Valley); $34. Lots of muscle and fruit. Tart berry, baking spice, silky (Yakima Valley); $28. Sirocco is 46% wood on the nose, and some scents of pickle that 90 tannins, and a finish with coffee ground high- Grenache, 31% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, 4% reflect the American oak barrels. The flavors fol- lights make this an especially captivating bottle. Counoise and 4% Cinsault—is anyone else in low along, spicy cranberry and raspberry fruit, Alcohol is at just 13.4%. —P.G. Washington doing such complex Rhône blends? with streaks of pickle and wood and a burst of The model, of course, is Châteauneuf-du-Pape, alcoholic heat in the finish. The blend includes Barnard Griffin 2007 Petit Verdot and this is a worthy New World take on that wine. 17% Mourvèdre. —P.G. 92 (Columbia Valley); $35. Even this Still youthful and very spicy, with tight red fruits, ultratannic grape gets a polished expression from firm tannins, and alcohol pushing 15%, it needs Heaven’s Cave 2008 The Dweller winemaker Rob Griffin, who has a silky touch with more bottle age and/or decanting to smooth out. 82 Syrah (Horse Heaven Hills); $24. tannins. What comes out is pretty purple berry and —P.G. plum fruit, barrel flavors of cut tobacco, clove and Disjointed, sharp, astringent and thin, this shows vanilla, and a little more grip than the other reds Walla Walla Vintners 2008 Malbec little of the varietal character usually associated from Barnard Griffin. Makes a compelling case for 90 (Columbia Valley); $32. Malbec is a with grapes from the outstanding Destiny Ridge PV as a varietal wine. —P.G. real success at this pioneering Walla Walla win- vineyard. There’s a whiff of funk in the nose, but ery, and in 2008 they made two different bot- only tart, generic and unripe fruit in the mouth. Novelty Hill 2007 Stillwater Creek tlings. This one is simply labeled Columbia —P.G. 92 Vineyard Grenache (Columbia Val- Valley, and the grapes were entirely sourced from

80 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 Sagemoor vineyard. It’s a rich, round, toasty, Chateau Ste. Michelle 2008 Canoe highly enjoyable wine, with generous amounts of WASHINGTON 89 Ridge Estate Chardonnay (Horse butterscotch and toast from the barrel aging. The Heaven Hills); $22. Oaky on the nose, but fruit is a bit subdued, a mix of sour cherry, rasp- WHITE WINES with the ripe firm fruit to support the barrel fla- berry and red currant. —P.G. vors, this hits the palate bang on with a powerful CHARDONNAY load of ripe apple, stone fruits, toast, spice and McCrea Cellars 2008 Ciel du plain old oak. It’s a style that is becoming stan- 89 Cheval Vineyard Counoise (Red Januik 2008 Cold Creek Vineyard dard for Ste. Michelle Chardonnays, a forceful, Chardonnay (Columbia Valley); very ripe, big flavor approach that may benefit Mountain); $28. A unique and rare varietal 94 $25. From an older block (planted in 1990), this from decanting in order to smooth it out. —P.G. expression of this obscure southern Rhône grape, tightly-wound, beautifully-structured Chardon- here blended with 20% Syrah. It’s tart and racy, nay brings together tart and tasty orange citrus Gordon Brothers 2009 Reserve somewhat Italian in style, a bit like a young Dol- fruits, wet stone minerality, hints of lime and a 89 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley); cetto. Cranberry fruit, baking spices, powdered core of steel. It’s a racehorse, beautifully propor- $23. A pretty lemon yellow, this organically- sugar and bitter chocolate notes dot the flavor tioned, and built for both near term and long grown estate reserve has juicy natural acidity, and landscape. It’s the strong natural acidity that term enjoyment. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. tight, tart citrus fruit that zips around lemon, really sets the wine in motion and keeps the alco- lime, white peach and a hint of pineapple. The hol at bay. —P.G. Novelty Hill 2008 Stillwater Creek barrel flavors are generous but not overblown, 93 Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia and the structure suggests it will keep well for Angel Vine 2008 Stonetree Vine- Valley); $22. Firm, spicy and loaded with gen- 6–8 years. —P.G. 88 yard Petite Sirah (Columbia Val- erous tropical fruits, this has three different Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 ley); $20. Limited production, tight and clones in the blend, yielding exceptional depth Chardonnay (Columbia Valley); interesting. This 100% Petite Sirah is one of just a and complexity. The wine moves gracefully from 87 $13. Crisp and spicy, with juicy apple and pear handful of varietal versions of the grape made in citrus to tropical fruits, with a firm core balanced fruit flavor, this easy-drinking Chardonnay was Washington. It features ripe berry flavors—blue- on juicy acids. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. aged sur lie in mostly used barrels. There’s a sub- berry in particular—wrapped in well-managed tle suggestion of vanilla and butter woven into tannins with hints of caramel running through Boudreaux Cellars 2008 Bishop’s the finish. —P.G. the finish. Still young, primary fruit, with a sharp 91 & Celilo Vineyards Chardonnay (Washington); $35. Winemaker Rob Newsom edge to the tannins. Give it a couple more years Hogue 2009 Chardonnay (Colum- has defined a Chardonnay style that pushes the in the cellar for optimal drinking. —P.G. bia Valley); $11. Surprisingly full bod- grape to its ripening limits. Straw gold and burst- 86 ied, fruit loaded and instantly appealing, this new ing with ultraripe scents and flavors, it’s a jumble Nodland Cellars 2006 Private Chardonnay from Hogue mixes generous flavors of apples, orange marmalade, and lemon candy. A 87 Blend (Columbia Valley); $35. This of apple and butter, toasted almonds and a little buttery finish brings olive oil, caramel and butter- is drinking very well, with plenty of peppery spice spice. Best Buy. —P.G. around mature, soft, light fruit. It’s a nicely- scotch. —P.G. balanced effort, with tart red fruits, pepper, dried Arbor Crest 2009 Conner Lee leaf, and just a little heat from the (surprisingly SAUVIGNON BLANC Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia high) alcohol, listed at 14.9%. Drink up. —P.G. 90 Valley); $18. A soft, silky scent to open, weav- Novelty Hill 2008 Stillwater Creek Thurston Wolfe 2008 Dr. Wolfe’s ing a tapestry of floral, musk, lemon polish and 92 Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc apple notes. The wine has excellent concentra- Family Red (Washington); $16. (Columbia Valley); $18. Always one of the 87 tion, a dense midpalate bringing vanilla cream Here is a full-bodied, somewhat rustic, ripe, superstar Sauv Blancs from Washington, this is and banana and other tropical fruit flavors to the slightly pruny red blend. It’s a unique effort—34% especially good in this vintage. Lots of toast, but- front. Powerful, with a hint of volatility. —P.G. ter cookie and a streak of vanilla are wrapped into Primitivo, 30% Lemberger, 22% Syrah, 10% Petite silky, seductive, ripe fruit flavors that mix citrus, Sirah and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. Made into a Barnard Griffin 2009 Chardonnay orange, papaya and lemon hard candy. This is broad, fruity, soft and lightly chocolaty red, it’s a 90 (Columbia Valley); $14. Barnard about 20% Sémillon, barrel fermented. Editors’ perfect wine for pizza, picnics and parties. —P.G. Griffin is family-owned, yet competes, both in Choice. —P.G. terms of price and quality, with the biggest winer- Thurston Wolfe 2008 Howling ies in the state. This Chardonnay is reliable year in Arbor Crest 2009 Bacchus Vine- 87 Wolfe Zinfandel (Horse Heaven and year out, but is especially fine in 2009, with 91 yard Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Hills); $20. The Howling Wolfe Zinfandel is a wonderful definition. Fresh herbs, crisp green Valley); $8. Pungent aromas of concentrated bowl of berries and chocolate, soft in the mouth, apple and citrus fruit, a full, spicy, tangy mouth- stone fruits, bubble gum, a whiff of diesel and full across the palate, and ready for near-term feel, and above all, a lingering and clean finish, pine tar introduce a multidimensional wine with drinking. —P.G. make this a terrific value. Best Buy. —P.G. lip-smacking acidity. All stainless fermented, no

WineMag.com | 8 1 BUYING I GUIDE malolactic, no acidification—just a clean, pure, Barrister 2009 Riesling (Columbia for more drama—cantaloupe, apricot, banana, natural and richly delicious wine, loaded with 92 Valley); $17. Lovely aromas, with the and a bit of papaya. A total yum-fest. Editors’ ripe, luscious peach, pear, papaya and apricot depth and dimension that old vine (30-year-old) Choice. —P.G. fruit. Best Buy. —P.G. Riesling can produce. This is ripe, round and well-defined, and packed with stone and citrus Barnard Griffin 2009 Viognier Barnard Griffin 2009 Fumé Blanc fruits, especially grapefruit. Great natural acidity 90 (Columbia Valley); $25. A complex 91 (Columbia Valley); $9. This could be and balance. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. and compelling mix of citrus rind, pineapple, apple called the signature white for Barnard Griffin, for and pear, both in the nose and in the mouth. This it always delivers astonishing flavor for the mod- Boudreaux Cellars 2009 Gamache gathers strength in the mouth, kicking flavors into est price. A small percentage of Sémillon is in the 89 Vineyard Riesling (Columbia Val- a higher gear with juicy acidity. A long, tailing fin- blend, but the sappy, spicy, penetrating herba- ley); $20. Ripe and luscious, with flavors of pear ish has a hint of mint and pepper. —P.G. ceousness of Sauvignon Blanc is showcased, not and peach, this is rather fleshy for Riesling. Mod- disguised. Done in a Sancerre-like style, under erate acidity and a hint of sugar in the full-bodied 13% alcohol, this is a gorgeous food wine, but finish. —P.G. OTHER WHITE WINES you may just want to sip on it all by itself. Best Buy. —P.G. Barnard Griffin 2009 Riesling Gordon Brothers 2009 Ice Wine 88 (Columbia Valley); $10. Spice, apple, 94 Gewürztraminer (Columbia Val- Barrister 2009 Klipsun Vineyard light peach and a gentle fruitiness characterize ley); $37/375 ml. A burnished gold, tilting 91 Sauvignon Blanc (Red Mountain); this Riesling. There are deeper notes as well, skin toward mahogany, this decadently thrilling ice $19. A tasty, round, nicely-balanced, fruity style. phenolics that add texture and earthiness. But wine is sex in a glass. Immense concentration, Flavors are fruit driven, with lots of melon, apple fruit is front and center, with crisp acidity right with layers of sugar that run from molasses to Best Buy. and pear dominating. The acids are just right, and behind it. —P.G. honey to brown sugar to maple syrup. It’s sup- the wine is as clean and fresh as it can possibly ported with enough acidity to keep it focused, be. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Nodland Cellars 2008 Bebop Ries- and the flavors wrap into a finish that is a combi- ling (Columbia Valley); $20. This 88 nation of every crème brûlée you’ve ever Hogue 2009 Sauvignon Blanc easy-drinking Riesling finishes dry, but still it’s enjoyed. —P.G. 88 (Columbia Valley); $11. Happily the relatively soft, with green apple fruit and some fumé has been discarded and it’s simply labeled spicy skin phenolics. Good balance and gentle McCrea Cellars 2008 Ciel du Sauvignon Blanc, as it should be. The blend persistence through a clean finish. —P.G. Cheval Vineyard Roussanne (Red includes 6% Sémillon, the wine is finished with a 92 Mountain); $22. Pure Roussanne; plump and screw cap, and the flavors are crisp and quite Pacific Flyway 2009 Riesling spicy, with beguiling accents of cinnamon around refreshing. Melon, grapefruit, a little snippet of (Washington); $9. This négociant 84 rich fruit. Orange, tangerine and apricot fruits pineapple and overall a mouth-cleaning liveliness wine, made at a large custom crush facility in are in full display, the wine is round and luscious make this an excellent wine for sipping or with Mattawa, Washington, shows traces of the crisp and the finish quite full and satisfying. Editors’ lighter entrées. Best Buy. —P.G. fruit and lively flair of more substantial efforts. Choice. —P.G. But it feels a little faded, and falls a little flat. Not bad, just vin ordinaire. —P.G. RIESLING Barnard Griffin 2009 Orange Mus- 91 cat (Columbia Valley); $17. A per- Januik 2009 Bacchus Vineyard VIOGNIER fect framing of fruit and skin and acid, this 93 Riesling (Columbia Valley); $20. screams out for the perfect food match. It’s a Wonderfully fragrant, this wine really delivers the K Vintners 2009 Viognier (Colum- mouthful of orange fruit and orange rind, with goods. Candied citrus fruits, juicy and rich, with 93 bia Valley); $20. All den Hoed lemony highlights and impressive power. It res- an extended middle palate that brings in some grapes—barrel fermented, neutral oak, no malo- onates from start to finish, adding notes of herbal skin flavors and hints of stone and earth. The fin- lactic. Very rich, deep and racy, with glorious fruit. tea and orange liqueur as it rolls through a long ish extends for a full minute or longer. Editors’ Full-bodied and lush without being heavy; it keeps finish. Outstanding winemaking. —P.G. Choice. —P.G. the freshness and minerality, along with a full range of fruits from citrus to stone fruits to melon. Hogue 2009 Gewürztraminer OS Winery 2009 Champoux Vine- Finishes with a lick of white pepper. —P.G. 90 (Columbia Valley); $11. Very fine, 93 yard Riesling (Horse Heaven Hills); full and fruity, this is a remarkably flavorful wine. $15. A unique balance—9.8% alcohol and 2% McCrea Cellars 2009 Viognier It captures just a hint of the floral/soapy side of residual sugar—with the subtle flavors of old vines 91 (Yakima Valley); $22. Though vari- the grape, but brings in delicious fruit flavors of a bonus. A gorgeous wine, tasted with escalar etally labeled, this intriguing white Rhône peach and pear and melon and more, a luscious (white tuna) served as sushi. The buttery fish and includes 12% each Marsanne and Grenache mix that continues to resonate right on through a the light, elegant Riesling are a stunning match. Blanc. Rich and satisfying, it brings the buttery powerful finish. It’s just slightly off-dry, but not Neither overtakes the other. Best Buy. —P.G. density of a ripe Chardonnay, but mixes the fruits really sweet. Best Buy. —P.G.

82 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 Thurston Wolfe 2009 PGV (Wash- Cayuse 2007 Cailloux Vineyard K Vintners 2007 Morrison Lane 90 ington); $16. In 2009, it’s the Pinot 99 Syrah (Walla Walla); $65. The only 93 Syrah (Walla Walla); $45. This has a Gris (at 60%) that dominates this two-grape one of the Cayuse Syrahs that is co-fermented strong and pure Walla Walla character; the fruit is blend; the rest is Viognier. It’s always a delicious with Viognier, this opens with a stunning, floral splayed out broadly across the palate, a luscious wine, and here again the two grapes match up bouquet, showing extraordinary depth and tex- mix of strawberries, blueberries, cherries and cas- beautifully, with the Pinot Gris bringing flesh and ture. The wine has a floral top, a thickly fruity sis. There are other veins of flavor running along- rind from a variety of citrus fruits, and the Viog- middle and a base with smoke, rock and meat. side: chocolate, coffee, black olive, licorice, anise nier adding orange blossom and tangerine. Edi- Still very young, it is already a complete, fully- and a hint of 5-spice. Big and full and deeply fla- tors’ Choice. —P.G. realized, near-perfect wine with a finish that vorful, this is perhaps the iconic K Syrah. —P.G. extends for many minutes. This should age for 25 Hogue 2009 Pinot Grigio (Colum- –30 years. Right now, it’s almost frozen in place; K Vintners 2007 Phil Lane Syrah 88 bia Valley); $11. Another fine effort still a bit tannic, but with superb aging potential. 93 (Walla Walla); $70. The Phil Lane, in a continuing series of outstanding PGs from Cellar Selection. —P.G. from a small vineyard that adjoins the winery, is Hogue. This is tart and stylish, loaded with citrus refined and elegant in the context of the K Vint- and bracingly acidic. Flavors meld lemon, lime, Cayuse 2007 En Cerise Vineyard ners Syrah pantheon. This has a generous amount lemon verbena, orange peel and a slice of pear. 98 Syrah (Walla Walla); $65. Aromatic of herb and organic/umami flavor, and the fruit is Best Buy. —P.G. and invited, almost jet black in color, this single- a component, but not dominant. A contempla- vineyard offering is a pungent mix of blood tive wine, with a subtle weave of herb, earth and Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Pinot orange, rosemary and cassis. Dense and focused, berry. The acids are not yet entirely integrated, Gris (Columbia Valley); $13. compact and layered, it is structured very much 88 With but that’s a minor caveat. —P.G. about 6% Viognier in the blend, this tart, dry, like a Cabernet, but with a full palette (and racy take on Pinot Gris has unusual complexity. palate) of Syrah fruit flavors. —P.G. Watermill 2007 Praying Mantis Crisp citrus and pear skin, green apple and lemon Syrah (Walla Walla); $30. The Cayuse 2007 Bionic Frog Syrah 92 verbena roll across the palate. There’s a crisp unusual label—a bright green praying mantis on a minerality to the acids, and a clean, refreshing (Walla Walla); $75. Often considered 98 plain brown background—does not suggest a finish. Best Buy. —P.G. the iconic Cayuse wine, this bears the cartoonish reserve-quality Syrah, but that is what this is. Spicy label with the leering frog, though it is a single- and well-defined, young and full of verve, it opens vineyard offering like the others. Initially showing with blueberries and other wild blue fruits, adds ROSÉ WINE some fat and sweetness, it is supple and textural, layers of coffee, milk chocolate, moist earth and with the density that comes from a mix of flavors: lead pencil, and moves through a tart, sappy mid- Thurston Wolfe 2009 Second pain grillé, smoke, umami, fungus, coffee palate into a nicely-focused finish with the promise 87 Chance Rosé (Washington); $15. grounds and dark fruits. A richly organic com- of a long cellar life. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Named for the winery dog (a rescue dog named pendium of scents and flavors, with black tea tan- Chance), this 80-20 Lemberger-Grenache blend nins. —P.G. Amavi Cellars 2008 Syrah (Walla is a lovely cherry/sunset color, and tastes like tangy Walla); $28. Beautifully fragrant, with pie cherries and rhubarb. Quite dry and showing Cayuse 2007 Armada Vineyard 91 intense, polished berry and currant fruit flavors, more tannin than most rosés, it could stand up to 97 Syrah (Walla Walla); $70. The wine more than a light sniff of fresh mushroom and simple grilled meats or burgers. —P.G. begins to change immediately; as soon as the cork is pulled the bouquet emerges and begins to lovely herbs. This is a truly remarkable effort, ele- evolve. Thin layers of scent and flavor are gant and complex. There are nuances of blood, WALLA WALLA stacked, with rose petals on top, then supremely and garrigue, and just the right amount of whole dense with darker layers of smoke, graphite, ash, cluster (about 20%) giving definition and texture SYRAH mushroom, black fruits. The tannins never stick through the finish. —P.G. out and the flavors just keep on going, bringing in Cayuse 2007 En Chamberlin cured meats, mocha, and on and on. —P.G. Walla Walla Vintners 2008 Morri- 100 Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla); 90 son Lane Vineyard Syrah (Walla $65. In a stunning lineup of Cayuse Syrahs, the Amavi Cellars 2008 Les Collines Walla); $32. A well-balanced, taut Syrah, walk- En Chamberlin wins by a nose. It’s smooth and 93 Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla); ing the tightrope between juicy and astringent, silky, with a tongue-bending blend of flavors that $34. Wine club only, single vineyard and pure with a forceful minerality under the fresh berry include blood and iron, umami and salt, at first varietal. This is tightly focused, with strong herbal fruit. Like a bite of fresh boysenberry pie, with a overtaking the pure fruit, but adding tremendous and stem flavors dominating over wild berry and hint of pie crust along with the delicious fruit. depth and power. The endless finish unfolds into tart black fruits. This needs more bottle age and The acidity and overall balance suggest that aging a wine with exotic spices and complex layer- probably decanting. But what force and concen- this wine another 6–8 years will continue to ing.—P.G. tration! —P.G. improve it. —P.G.

WineMag.com | 8 3 BUYING I GUIDE

seems to have a sheen over it, an almost gauze-like Cabernet Franc since 2003, this is a wonderful CABERNETS & BLENDS surface that shimmers and shines. —P.G. wine. It has the power and concentration of the other Spring Valley wines, but with a bit more Cayuse 2007 Widowmaker Caber- Pepper Bridge 2007 Pepper Bridge restraint. Sweetly fruity, with jammy notes of 98 net Sauvignon (Walla Walla); $70. 93 Vineyard Red (Walla Walla); $55. cherry compote and cassis, it’s backed with This En Chamberlin vineyard offering has never A blend of 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 48% Mer- chocolaty tannins and an overriding sense of mus- been better. Simply spectacular Cabernet Sauvi- lot and 4% each Malbec and Petit Verdot, this cular power. —P.G. gnon, pure and focused and textural and terroir- brings seductive baking spices, cinnamon and driven. A low yield, pure varietal wine, it is more, all of which elevate the aromas. In the Tero Estates 2007 Windrow Vine- immensely concentrated, deeply flavored with mouth come fruit flavors of ripe strawberry and 92 yards Cabernet Franc (Walla cassis, cherry, and berry fruit that is substantial plum, with hints of red licorice and a pretty Walla); $38. Fragrant and showing lots of toasty and detailed, with a light dappling of dried herb, sandalwood note. The flavors spread evenly oak, this has a lifted, lightly volatile nose with chocolate powder, licorice and dark, earthy com- across the palate with a generous and spicy tang; pretty cherry fruit underlying it. There is a little ponents typical of Cayuse. —P.G. then linger gracefully, inviting the next sip imme- bit of a green character to the oak, and the wine diately. —P.G. is still resolving itself. Good varietal focus and Cayuse 2007 Camaspelo (Walla character; it opens up nicely in the glass, with 94 Walla); $65. The Camaspelo—a 67% Tero Estates 2007 Windrow Vine- pretty, ripe, round cherry/berry fruit and streaks Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 8% Cab Franc 93 yards Windrow Red (Walla Walla); of earth, pepper and coffee. Excellent balance blend—is a little bigger, a little thicker in the $45. This is the signature wine, a field blend into a medium finish. —P.G. mouth than the Flying Pig, but with similar fruit wine that is a precise representation of the grapes and grip. The mineral base, dusty cherry and cur- planted in the estate vineyard, in exact propor- Tero Estates 2007 Windrow Vine- rant fruit and accent notes of cured meats give tion: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 10% 92 yards Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla this wine a layered complexity; it unfolds grace- Cabernet Franc and 6% Malbec. Muscular and Walla); $55. A very pretty nose mingleing vio- fully across the palate and down into a long finish. rich with dark fruits, cocoa, coffee, chocolate, lets and purple fruits. Still a little rough in the Still very young, but with exceptional aging fresh herbs and a streak of mineral, this is mouth, with lightly grainy tannins and a wealth of potential. Cellar Selection. —P.G. detailed, dense and compelling. Should age for a herbal accents around cranberry and strawberry decade or more. Cellar Selection. —P.G. fruit. Excellent complexity and balance. —P.G. Pepper Bridge 2007 Cabernet 94 Sauvignon (Walla Walla); $55. This K Vintners 2007 The Creator K Vintners 2007 Ovide En Cerise nicely captures the structural strengths of the ’07 92 Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Walla 91 Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Walla vintage. It’s a muscular wine, with excellent depth Walla); $50. The Creator is a blend of 60% Walla); $60. Two-thirds Cabernet and one- and polish. In the mouth it displays exceptional Cailloux Cabernet Sauvignon, and 40% Morrison third Syrah, this is a creative blend of Cayuse Cabernet/Bordeaux character, in the context of Lane Syrah. It’s a fascinating mix, with powerful grapes, with the pungent, herbal, earthy charac- bright Washington fruit. Vivid and aromatic, with fruit from two iconic Walla Walla vineyards. Nei- ter that the En Cerise vineyard delivers in spades. a lifted palate that blends and matches dark cassis ther dominates; the Cailloux Cab is somewhat The fruit is a mix that hints at peaches, citrus and fruit and mixed herbs with hints of the 50% new muted by the Morrison Lane Syrah, which in more, with an undercurrent of black olive and oak. Age this for decades. Cellar Selection. turn is muted by the Cailloux. The result is a smoke. But the overriding flavors come from —P.G. blend that expresses rather than shouts the attrib- spice, herb, earth and rock. —P.G. utes of each, while remaining balanced and com- Cayuse 2007 Flying Pig Cabernet- plete. —P.G. Tero Estates 2007 Walla Walla Val- 93 Merlot (Walla Walla); $70. This Cab 91 ley Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Franc-Merlot blend is beautifully aromatic, with Pepper Bridge 2007 Seven Hills Walla); $42. This blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvi- sappy fruit flavors in a clearly identifiable Cayuse 92 Vineyard Red (Walla Walla); $55. gnon, 12% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot includes style. Rich strawberry-inflected fruit, sour cherry This blend of 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 52% fruit from five Walla Walla Valley vineyards. It (griotte), dried herbs and a lightly salty texture Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc is a jewel; sappy shows plenty of muscle and bigger, rounder fruit infuse a wine that also packs in plenty of the and seductive, loaded with cassis and boysen- than the single-vineyard Cabernet from Tero. earthy, compost character of Cayuse. Tannins are berry, tart and racy, and defined with sharp tan- Loaded with lush cherry and plum flavor, with a already beginning to age into a finish with black nins. A strong and well-ripened herbal character milk chocolate accent, it’s very appealing, nicely tea highlights. —P.G. infuses the red-fruit core, giving the wine length balanced and lingering. —P.G. and style; it is just at the edge of showing some K Vintners 2007 Roma En Cham- heat on the finish. Cellar for 8 to 10 years. Cellar Amavi Cellars 2008 Cabernet 93 berlin Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah Selection. —P.G. 90 Sauvignon (Walla Walla); $28. (Walla Walla); $60. This is 62% Cabernet Beautifully balanced, this offers the perfect Sauvignon and 38% Syrah. The Cab shines here, Spring Valley Vineyard 2008 expression of Washington State brightness and a firm and confident, with sharp edges from spicy 92 Katherine Corkrum Cabernet Bordeaux-like herbal component. The tannins herbs. The fruit is polished and silky, and the wine Franc (Walla Walla); $50. Just the second are fine and drying, and the wine is polished, with

84 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 plenty of astringent, herbal flavors in the finish. foundation and elevates the texture. This is a The fruit is very tart and tight, with a base of Don’t look for big fruit here, but for a Euro style, unique style of Grenache, that ripens slowly into cement and some spice and herb. —P.G. this is a sure bet. —P.G. a lingering finish with dried herbs and tanned leather. —P.G. K Vintners 2007 El Jefe En Cham- Nodland Cellars 2006 Reserve 91 berlin Tempranillo-Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla K Vintners 2007 Guido Red (Walla 90 Sauvignon (Walla Walla); $60. This is 75% Walla); $45. The very limited (50 case) Walla); $40. This is 80% Sangiovese 93 Tempranillo and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s Nodland Reserve is all fruit from the excellent and 20% Syrah; an overlooked treasure from the McClellan vineyard. A tasty mix of fig, plum and LeFore vineyard, one of the original plantings in got an unusual structure, and dramatically dis- black cherry fruit, it sails on through the mouth, the Rocks. It is now beginning to show more gen- plays this biodynamic vineyard’s funky, herbal, adding layers of coffee, cherry liqueur and dried uine Sangiovese character as it moves into its sec- earthy character, with plenty of acidity from the leaf. Excellent concentration and depth. —P.G. ond decade. Spicy berry with a strong coffee Tempranillo, and a little bit of the tomato leaf back, and the juicy acidity of the grape providing character also. A complex, unique, distinctive the structure. It finishes with a bright cinnamon wine that does not show fruit so much as earth MERLOT streak. Delicious. —P.G. and terroir. It keeps going, adding weight and Barrister 2007 Merlot (Walla K Vintners 2007 The Boy depth through the midpalate, with a strong 93 Walla); $25. All Dwelley Vineyard Mer- 92 Grenache (Walla Walla); $45. This tomato component. —P.G. lot, with 9% Cab Franc and 6% Cab Sauvignon. Armada vineyard (Cayuse) Grenache has got the Lots of pretty barrel toast and dense purple and funk, the terroir of the Rocks, and a spicy/herbal Tero Estates 2007 Tero Red (Walla black fruits, mixed with spicy vanilla/clove. Tan- component that shines through. The depth and 88 Walla); $24. This is a little rugged, a nins are silky smooth, supple and powerful, and detail are amazing, and there is plenty of the little more raw and less concentrated than the the wine really kicks it! Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Cayuse funk—it’s a love it or hate it flavor, but it other releases from this new Walla Walla winery. is unique and complex. Has 10% Syrah is in the The wood sticks out a bit, though it’s a very tasty Pepper Bridge 2007 Merlot (Walla blend. —P.G. wine with supple red fruit, an soft earthiness, and Walla); $50. This classic Merlot is 93 light suggestions of sandalwood and spice. —P.G. roughly half Pepper Bridge fruit, half Seven Hills Walla Walla Vintners 2008 Pepper fruit. What is particularly striking is how it dis- 92 Bridge Vineyard Malbec (Walla plays enticing floral aromas over deliciously thick Walla); $32. This rare release of a single- fruit, with streaks of coffee, chocolate and forest vineyard Malbec from Pepper Bridge grapes is a ROSÉ WINE floor delicately laid in. Complex and tight, it has classy, evocative, beautifully realized effort. It the potential to cellar for at least a decade, maybe begins with violets and raspberries, on the nose and Cayuse 2008 Edith Rosé (Walla 15 years. Cellar Selection. —P.G. in the mouth, and moves into more full- 92 Walla); $35. A beautiful copper color, bodied plum and cherry fruit, surrounded with deep and dense. Modeled on the wines of Tero Estates 2007 Herb’s Block thick milk chocolate. Some of the particular charac- Provence’s Domaines Ott, this rosé was designed, 91 Windrow Vineyards Merlot (Walla ter of the grapes is sacrificed—this could be Mer- says the winemaker, to age. It’s whole-cluster fer- Walla); $38. This is 100% estate Merlot from lot, or Cab Franc, or a blend of all three—but it mented from Grenache vines that have been the original 1981 planting. It’s very tight, and tastes so good that it really doesn’t matter. —P.G. picked and grown specifically to be a rosé—not a immediately showing a lot of barrel flavor, includ- saignée. Compact, compressed and powerful with ing some spicy pickle accents. The wine has Watermill 2007 Estate Petit Ver- excellent balance, with a firmness that is almost 92 dot (Walla Walla); $28. Definitely an emphasis on the mineral subtext, light peach Cabernet like. Smooth, polished, cranberry and one of the smoothest and most deeply concen- and strawberry highlights. —P.G. cherry fruit is threaded with black olive and red trated Petit Verdots to come out of the Pacific licorice. —P.G. Northwest, this Walla Walla winery and vineyard sources these grapes from their McClellan Estate WHITE WINE vineyard. It’s is pure varietal, silky and packed OTHER RED WINES with rich boysenberry and blueberry fruit flavor. Amavi Cellars 2009 Sémillon The tannin management is exceptional, and the 91 (Walla Walla); $20. The 14% Sauv Cayuse 2007 God Only Knows finish brings in details of coffee, earth and Blanc really brightens up the Sémillon. Round Grenache (Walla Walla); $70. This licorice. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 93 and fruit driven, barrel fermented in neutral oak, is starting to develop some secondary fruit aro- broad and delightfully fruity and open; the fla- mas, richly suggestive of fresh-baked strawberry Cayuse 2007 Impulsivo Tem- tarts, with a hint of the Cayuse funk underscoring 91 pranillo (Walla Walla); $70. This vors mix Satsuma orange, some citrus rind, a bit the complexity. Penetrating and dense, this is Tempranillo is firm, tight, acidic and compact, a of peach and buoyant acidity. A very accessible both powerful and elegant, with precision and difficult wine to assess. It’s got the Cayuse funk, and immediately delicious wine. Editors’ pungency. The liquid minerality provides a firm with sharper acidity and a wet stone foundation. Choice. —P.G.

WineMag.com | 8 5 BUYING I GUIDE

and lanolin. On the palate, jasmine tea and a lin- on the palate with nuances of dark steel, smoke NEW YORK gering minerality add depth to the rich sweetness and orange peel, this medium-bodied Riesling is of honeysuckle and stone fruit. —A.I. brightened by a flash of fresh orange acidity and RIESLING sweet grapefruit pith on the finish. —A.I. Keuka Lake Vineyards 2008 Gold- Dr. Konstantin Frank 2008 Bunch 88 man Vineyard Dry Riesling (Finger Keuka Lake Vineyards 2007 Keuka 92 Select Late Harvest Riesling (Fin- Lakes); $18. Both the nose and palate on this 87 Lec Reserve Gently Dry Riesling ger Lakes); $70/375 ml. The first producer in lovely dry Riesling bring to mind freshly pressed (Finger Lakes); $15. Pretty orange blossom the United States to craft traditional Trocken- apples and pears, white florals and petrol. Zippy and yellow peach aromas against a backdrop of beerenauslese-style Riesling, Dr. Frank’s is still acidity and a persistent lime juice midpalate lead to petrol make this “gently dry,” light-bodied Ries- one of the very best. Deep gold in color, this lus- a long, marzipan and bitter almond finish. —A.I. ling a classic expression of the grape. Lots of ripe cious nectar fills the glass with aromas of candied stonefruit and florals shower the palate, leading orange and honeysuckle. Honey, dried mango Red Newt Cellars 2008 Reserve to a persistent finish marked with vibrant acidity and pineapple and exotic potpourri notes 88 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes); $24. and a bright lime skin finish. —A.I. undulate persistently on the palate, ending in a Aromatics of yellow peach and slate are common languid tea leaf and honey finish. —A.I. for a Finger Lakes Riesling, but this one ups the Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2008 ante with a bold, incense-inspired spice note that 86 Late Harvest Riesling (Finger Hermann J. Wiemer 2008 Bunch makes for a curious sip. Dry in style, the lime and Lakes); $15/375 ml. Surprisingly lean and 92 Select Late Harvest Riesling (Fin- lemon palate is round and focused with a nice, light bodied, this doesn’t show typical characteris- ger Lakes); $95/375 ml. Virtually dripping minerally silkiness on the tongue. —A.I. tics of a late harvest wine, but its a clean, refresh- with honey, dried apricots and orange blossoms ing dessert wine evocative of dewy, fresh on the palate, this sunkissed Trockenbeere- Atwater 2008 Dry Riesling (Finger wildflowers, melon and lemons with just a hint of nauslese-style Riesling is liquid gold in a glass. 87 Lakes); $16. Hints of smoke and wet petrol. Bitter lime pith and pleasant notes of slate Despite it’s whopping 25.8% residual sugar level, stone combine with sweet Granny Smith apple and stone add some complexity as well. —A.I. it’s orange marmalade and waxy honeycomb and stonefruit aromas on the nose of this inviting sweetness is balanced perfectly with a bright dry Riesling. Smoke seeps through on the palate acidity and elegant darjeeling tea astringency, as well, melding with brighter flavors like orange GEWÜRZTRAMINER making this wine wonderfully sippable. —A.I. peel and underripe tangerine, making for a refreshing yet deeply compelling sip. —A.I. Atwater 2008 Gewürztraminer Sheldrake Point 2008 Late Harvest 87 (Finger Lakes); $17. Though richly 90 Riesling (Finger Lakes); $25/375 Highland Cellars 2007 Oughterson perfumed with rose petals and elderflower, the ml. Golden honey, tangerines and orange blos- 87 Family Estates Riesling (Seneca flowery aromatics are reined in by bright lemon soms perfume this silky smooth late harvest Ries- Lake); $13. This late-release Riesling from and citrus peel notes. The palate is plush and ling. Lush stone fruit and honey flavors melt onto Seneca Lake wafts with the delicate perfume of rich with flavors evocative of earl grey tea served the palate, but are anchored by an elegant black sweet peas, ripe stonefruits and a petrol under- with rose petal jam, with a gentle acidity to keep tea note and a bright tangerine acidity that make tone. Dry, but with a touch of white peach sweet- things fresh. —A.I. this sweet ambrosia a delightfully long sip. —A.I. ness, refreshing lime juice flavors and a high toned acidity keep this wine refreshing and brisk. —A.I. Bloomer Creek 2008 Dry Gewürz- Shaw 2007 Riesling (Finger Lakes); 87 traminer (Finger Lakes); $18. An 89 $16. Another beautiful late release from Keuka Lake Vineyards 2008 intoxicating bouquet of Indian spices, rose water winemaker Steve Shaw’s magical cellar of mys- 87 Falling Man Vineyard Dry Riesling and lychee, this lovely dry wine is full of soft, teries, this multifaceted Finger Lakes Riesling is (Finger Lakes); $18. Dry and refreshing with plush pink grapefruit and lychee flavors. Like redolent with white flowers and hints of smoke, clean, pure notes of white peach, orange many full bodied Gewürz’s, it is a bit broad in the stones and slate. Dry, but softened by a touch of blossoms and petrol on the nose and palate, this midpalate, but its gorgeously spiced ceylon tea white peach and limeade sweetness, the palate is shows off Riesling’s pristine side. A splash of tart, finish makes a lasting impression. A match made refreshing and floral, but balanced by bracing underripe starfruit and fresh limes on the palate in heaven with lighter South Indian, Thai or acidity and a backdrop of petrol, smoke and min- combine with a brisk acidity and wet stone min- Chinese fare. —A.I. erality. —A.I. erality, giving this wine a wonderfully invigorating feel. —A.I. Dr. Konstantin Frank 2008 Salmon The Grapes of Roth 2009 Late 87 Run Gewürztraminer (Finger 89 Harvest Nobel Roth Riesling (Long Keuka Lake Vineyards 2008 Ever- Lakes); $12. Classic Gewürztraminer aromas of Island); $35/375 ml. This late harvest Riesling 87 green Lek Vineyard Dry Riesling fresh lychee, pink grapefruit and roses abound from Roman Roth’s namesake winery, Grapes of (Finger Lakes); $18. The nose on Keuka on Dr. Frank’s lovely bargain Salmon Run. Roth, is a triumph for Long Island Riesling. Lush Lake’s Evergreen Lek Vineyard is wonderfully Although full bodied with a plush, broad profile, aromas of superripe honeydew, tangerines and intriguing with dark notes of smoke, petrol and it’s spritzed with a gentle lemon acidity and bitter white florals have an intriguing undertone of wax brine accented by hits of ripe, yellow peach. Dry lime pith and rose potpourri finish. Would pair

86 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 beautifully with spicy, herbacious Thai dishes, but interesting spice notes, but not a lot of ripeness or Viognier is broad and full bodied with lots of might be hard to resist savoring on its own. Best concentration in the fruit. —A.I. fresh orange and lemon peel notes and a hint of Buy. —A.I. spice. —A.I.

Standing Stone 2008 Gewürz- VIRGINIA Tarara 2008 Viognier (Virginia); 87 traminer (Finger Lakes); $19. Con- 84 $30. If a buttery, oaky, roasty, toasty centrated aromas of lychee, rose petals and black CHARDONNAY Viognier is what you seek, Virginia’s Tarara Vine- tea leaves perfume this delicious golden yellow yards has it. Toasted oak, buttered popcorn and wine. The palate is dry, but with just a touch of Barrel Oak 2008 Reserve Chardon- fresh apples dominate both the nose and palate pink grapefruit softness. Although full and rich in 86 nay (Virginia); $27. Fresh, appley and of this dry, full-bodied wine. It’s a straightforward the mouth, balanced acidity and a spiced, grape- floral with a touch of tangy yogurt cream, this is wine with fairly high alcohol, but balanced with a fruit pith finish keeps the wine from getting an approachable yet elegant Virginia pick. Deli- vibrant acidity. —A.I. flabby. —A.I. cate apple and pear flavors shine through on this full-bodied wine with fresh acidity, supple tex- Veramar 2008 Estate Club Viog- Fox Run 2008 Gewürztraminer ture and balanced alcohol. —A.I. 84 nier (Virginia); $32. Veramar’s Estate 85 (Finger Lakes); $20. Heady white flo- Club Viognier has a high-toned apple scent. Fat rals and tropical fruit perfume this charming Barrel Oak 2008 Barrel Fermented and full bodied with lots of rich cream, butter Chardonnay (Virginia); $26. Gewürztraminer. Full bodied and luscious with 85 Hints and apple cider notes, it’s fairly low in acid, but lots of fresh, white grapefruit juice and a mild, of freshly pressed apples and pears in a darkly high in alcohol, contributing to a finish that feels limeade acidity, the midpalate might feel a bit toasted oak barrel come through. Deft use of new a bit dense and hot. —A.I. French oak results in a full-bodied wine with a sluggish, but a pleasant grapefruit pith and white lush, buttered toast richness that highlights sweet tea astringency kicks in on the finish. —A.I. apple and lemon flavors. The finish is clean and OTHER WHITE WINES Wagner 2008 Dry Gewürz- lemony with a slight saline touch. —A.I. Barrel Oak 2009 Bowhaus White traminer (Finger Lakes); $13. 85 Tarara 2008 Chardonnay (Vir- Table Wine (Virginia); $23. Ceylon Although subdued both aromatically and on the 86 ginia); $25. Here’s a find for lovers of tea, fresh pineapple and tangerines perfume this palate, this refreshing, dry Gewürztraminer 84 big, buttery wine. Dripping with cream and but- off-dry blend of predominantly Vidal, Sauvignon smells sweetly of waxy white florals and lemons ter, Tarara’s darkly toasted, full-bodied Chardon- Blanc and Viognier grapes. Simple yet fresh, with with a hint of bruised apples. There’s not a lot of nay screams new French oak. Rich and viscous, pretty white floral and peach notes, this wine concentration of flavor, but its fresh apple and there’s just a hint of fresh lemon and apple flavors would be a lovely companion to lemongrass lemon flavors are clean and brisk, ending with a hiding behind all of the oak. —A.I. accented Thai and Vietnamese dishes. —A.I. pleasant grapefruit pith finish. —A.I. Veramar 2009 Chardonnay (Vir- Tarara 2008 Charval White Table Wagner 2008 Semi Dry Gewürz- ginia); $18. The nose is a tad high- Wine (Virginia); $20. Apples and traminer (Finger Lakes); $13. 81 85 85 On toned, like apple juice concentrate from a can. pears dominate the nose and palate of this blend the nose, this is a bit unique, offering unusual It’s full bodied and dry, with just a touch of sweet- of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris. scents of pineapple, baked apple and white flo- ness on the palate, with a savory apple flavor that Full bodied and fermented in stainless steel, this rals. Just slightly off-dry with loads of sweet, fresh ends with a tart, green apple skin note. —A.I. slightly off-dry wine is rich in texture, but stays apple flavors and a brisk, lemony acidity, the fin- fresh with a vibrant lemon-lime acidity. —A.I. ish ends on an elegant jasmine tea note. —A.I. VIOGNIER Veramar NV Riesling-Vidal Blanc Casa Larga 2008 Gewürztraminer 85 (Virginia); $17. Bruised apple and 84 (Finger Lakes); $11. On the nose, Barrel Oak 2008 Reserve Viognier high-toned apple cider notes on the nose. It’s an high-toned pineapple and tropical fruit dominate 85 (Virginia); $26. On the nose, this appley wine with familiar hints of ginger and Casa Larga’s Gewürz. The palate is refreshing but charming wine is aromatic, with pretty lemon and apple pie spice, but brisk acidity and a supple simple with lots of apple juice flavors laced with a orange blossoms mingled with darkly toasted oak mouthfeel keeps it from being overtly homespun hint of wax and jasmine blossoms. —A.I. and butter notes. Dry and full bodied with a rich, in style. —A.I. creamy mouthfeel, floral notes and a soft salinity on the finish keep the broad palate from verging Veramar NV Tres Blanc (Virginia); RED WINE toward flabbiness. —A.I. 85 $20. High-toned apple cider notes dom- inate the nose on this concentrated blend of Ries- Ventosa 2007 Sangiovese (Finger North Gate 2008 Viognier (Vir- ling, Vidal Blanc and Chardonnay from Virginia’s 81 Lakes); $29. Tar, tobacco and smoke 84 ginia); $18. A tad cloying on the nose Veramar. Full bodied but dry with a rich viscosity can’t mask the green tomato leaf characteristics with pungent orange-flavored tea, bruised apple and a brisk, lemony acidity, it’s straightforward, on this ruby red Sangiovese. There are some and billowing florals, this bright lemon yellow but enjoyable for a casual night’s fare. —A.I.

WineMag.com | 8 7 BUYING I GUIDE

sists on the soft black cherry palate as well, adding $17. Cherry cola, vanilla and chocolate perfume CABERNETS & BLENDS a sour, stalky note in the mid palate. —A.I. this spicy, plush blend of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. There’s a tinge of green on the pulpy, Lovingston 2009 Josie’s Knoll Veramar 2008 Estate Club Caber- dark-cherry palate, but the finish ends with a 86 Cabernet Franc (Monticello); $14. 83 net Franc (Virginia); $32. Char, twist of tar, granite and spice notes. —A.I. A pleasant mix of coffee grinds, char and spiced smoke and black fruit with a whiff of barnyard black cherries perfume this Cabernet Franc. Full perfume this Cab Franc. It’s spicy and soft on Two Rivers 2008 Syrah (Grand Val- bodied and rich with ripe black plum fruit and entry with lots of earthy moss and leather notes, 84 ley); $14. On the nose, there’s lots of soft mocha and cinnamon notes, it’s faintly remi- but has a jagged acidity and choppy grape warm, toasted wood and vanilla spice notes on this, niscent of a mug of Mexican hot chocolate. Soft tannins. —A.I. cheerful, cherry-laden Colorado Syrah. There’s a tannins and a vibrant acidity contribute to a tart, slight green, stalky vein that runs throughout, but sour cherry finish. —A.I. Veramar 2008 Cabernet Franc (Vir- overall, it’s an easy drinking, fruit forward wine 83 ginia); $21. The nose on this medium- sprinkled with mocha and chocolate. —A.I. Lovingston 2007 Estate Reserve bodied Cab Franc is spicy with bright red plum 85 Josie’s Knoll (Monticello); $19. This and cherry notes with a hint of tomato sauce. On Merlot-Cab Franc blend is a lovely mélange of the palate, there’s pleasant red cherry flavor and IDAHO sweet sour cherries and vanilla spice combined smooth, mild tannins, but it’s tart and underripe with scents of darkly toasted oak and barnyard. with bracingly high acidity and a green stalky Coiled 2008 Syrah (Snake River Valley); $29. On the palate as well, soft, rich, red fruit melds undertone. —A.I. 86 Aromas of black cherry, into earthy barnyard and black pepper spice freshly brewed coffee and violets perfume this North Gate 2008 Meritage (Vir- notes, backed by gripping grape tannins. There’s plush, plummy, full-bodied Syrah. It’s unabashedly ginia); $20. Although initially the bou- fruit forward and easy to drink, but spice and cof- a hint of sweet tomato in the mid palate, but oth- 82 quet is inviting with scents of dark fruit, chocolate fee grinds kick in at the finish to keep things inter- erwise, a strong contender from Virginia. —A.I. and mocha, notes of tomato and tomato leaf carry esting. —A.I. Tarara 2007 Cabernet Franc (Vir- through to the palate as well. Lots of tart acidity and chunky grape and wood tannins leave the ginia); $30. Pretty black cherry, char 85 mouth feeling jagged. —A.I. OHIO and menthol aromas gently perfume Tarara’s Cab Franc. On the palate, soft black fruit flavors are Debonné 2008 Lot 807 Reserve not deeply concentrated, but ripe with firm grape SYRAH Riesling (Grand River Valley); $15. and wood tannins for balance. Bright acidity car- 83 Although the nose offers darker notes of petrol, ries through on a tart, sour cherry finish —A.I. Tarara 2007 Syrah (Virginia); $50. bruised apples and cooked green peppers, the Initially, sweet, feminine violet notes and palate on this semisweet wine is prettier with hints Lovingston 2008 Rotunda Red 86 juicy, ripe blueberries on the nose and palate make of sugar-laced oolong tea and white florals. —A.I. (Monticello); $14. Lovingston’s 84 this seem innocent and coquettish. But full body, medium-bodied Bordeaux Blend is pleasantly big, chunky tannins and a vibrant acidity against a grapy on the nose with an undertone of darkly backdrop of smoke and char make this wine a NORTH CAROLINA toasted oak, nuts and savory spices. The palate compelling pick, and potentially one that could holds a decent amount of black fruit, but with a benefit from a few years in the cellar. —A.I. Raffaldini 2007 Montepulciano green, underripe vein and fairly high level of 86 (Swan Creek); $17. Clove and pepper acidity and tannins. —A.I. spice the dark red cherry aromas on this lovely OTHER U.S. Montepulciano. Judicious use of French oak Tarara 2008 Long-Bomb Edition makes for a smooth, full-bodied wine with rustic 84 Two (Virginia); $25. The mocha, COLORADO tobacco and smoke notes that highlight the wine’s toasted oak and sugared violet scents are lovely. concentrated black fruit and sturdy tannins. —A.I. There’s a fairly good core of black fruit and Two Rivers 2008 Riesling (Grand creamy mocha on the palate as well, but green 86 Valley); $14. Aromatic with notes of RayLen 2008 Category 5 Red Wine leaves and tomato peek through the midpalate, petrol, smoke and apple on the nose, this 84 (North Carolina); $18. Bright red accompanied by some gripping grape tannins. sprightly semisweet Riesling teases the tongue fruits achieve a decent amount of ripeness, but The finish is marked by tart sour cherry and some with the slightest tickle of effervescence. The unfortunately, there’s not a lot of concentration. floral notes. —A.I. palate balances sweet pink grapefruit juice with The spice-laced finish is long, aided by soft tannins honey, carrying through to an elegant jasmine tea and notes of leather, tobacco and earth. —A.I. Veramar 2009 Cabernet Franc (Vir- finish. —A.I. 84 ginia); $21. On the nose, this full of Raffaldini 2007 Riserva San- spice, char, and black fruit with a hint of barnyard. Two Rivers 2007 Vintner’s Blend 84 giovese (Swan Creek); $17. Mostly There’s a hint of green bramble, however, that per- 85 Syrah-Cabernet (Grand Valley); Sangiovese with a small dose of Petit Verdot, this

88 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 has attractive vanilla, dark cherry and spice aro- matics, but a green, stalky note that lingers throughout. Supple tannins mingle pleasantly with tobacco and smoke on the palate. —A.I.

RayLen 2006 Eagle’s Select Red 84 Wine (North Carolina); $25. Aromas of toasted oak, green leaves, vanilla and spice waft from this medium-bodied North Carolina Bordeaux-style blend. The palate is ripe and plush with plenty of sweet dark cherry fruit, but there’s a tinge of green in the backdrop. Tobacco, smoke and supple tannins on the finish add an edge to this otherwise soft sipper. —A.I.

Raffaldini 2008 Sangiovese (Swan 83 Creek); $15. Bright red cherries and a charred, herbacious oak scent perfume this light bodied North Carolina Sangiovese. Red cherry flavors continue on the palate as well, along with some pleasant tobacco and vanilla spice notes, but the acidity is fairly high, and there’s some green in the background too. —A.I.

RayLen 2007 Carolinius (North 83 Carolina); $14. The dark, black fruit on the nose and palate of Ray Len’s Carolinus red blend is ripe, but a bit tired and dusty, competing for attention with all the dark, toasted oak. It’s a straightforward Carolina red with a hint of tomato leaf and not a lot of structure, but fine for everyday fare. —A.I.

Sanders Ridge 2008 Big Woods 83 (Yadkin Valley); $18. The nose on this bright red blend from Sanders Ridge is spicy and smoky with abundant red fruit, leather and tobacco. The cheery red fruits carry through on the palate as well with a plush, but pleasant demeanor. There’s not a lot of structure or depth, but it’s an easy, fun wine. —A.I.

Divine Llama 2007 In a Heart Beat 82 (Yadkin Valley); $18. Charred oak, green herbs and vanilla spice notes mix oddly. The palate is soft and plush, with notes of sweet mocha and chocolate, but also a bit tired and chalky with faint tannins in the background. —A.I.

Sanders Ridge 2007 Big Woods 81 (Yadkin Valley); $18. Dark char, spicy black plums and cherries, and an undertone of earthy barnyard make for an intriguing nose, but the palate on this red blend is soft and tired. Too many green notes and a hint of Band-Aids and rubber kick in on the midpalate. —A.I.

WineMag.com | 8 9 BUYING I GUIDE

Chartreuse Yellow (Les Peres Char- Spirits 91 treux, Voiron, France); 40% abv, $50. Yellow, faintly tinged with green. The aroma BUT FIRST,AN APÉRITIF is bright, mild and lime-lollipop sweet, although the flavor is more herbal, with hints of mint and here’s definitely life in the apéritif category, me to confess that I loathe the stuff. anise, and a pronounced licorice finish and alcohol especially in the last year or so. New products Meanwhile, on the gentler side of the apéritif sting. Thick, syrupy and tongue-coating. T have been rolled out to the market, and bar- spectrum, look for fortified and aromatized wines, tenders are putting them to good use in cocktails such as vermouths, and the growing category of Amaro Meletti Liquore (Ditta Sil- meant to fire up the palate before a meal begins. wines delicately dosed with quinine (the same sub- 90 vio Meletti, Italy); 32% abv, $18. But it’s a fragmented landscape. On one side is a stance used to flavor tonic water) known as quin- Dark amber in color, this is lightly scented with group of bracing, robust spirits with bitter or botan- quinas (French apéritif wines), and their Italian cinnamon and caramel. The taste is surprisingly ical profiles and high alcohol content. These spirits, counterparts, chinati. sweet, but saved by the faintly bitter finish and whether consumed alone or combined into dry Wait—what are fortified wines doing in a column just enough alcohol. A biscotti cookie-amaretto apéritif cocktails like the Negroni or the Americano, about distilled spirits? In brief, these aromatic wines flavor lingers on, lightly and pleasantly. tend to overpower most food—their complexities play an important role in the mixology universe, often are best enjoyed on their own. often added to apéritif and other cocktails as a key Galliano L’Autentico (Lucas Bols; Even for those who love bitter flavors, as I do, ingredient. What would a classic martini be without 90 Livorno, Italy); 42.3% abv, some of these spirits can be extreme. A prime exam- a splash of vermouth? In fact, some creative bar- $19/375 ml. Galliano used to be a vanilla bomb ple is Fernet-Branca, the polarizing Italian liquid, tenders have seized on this versatile category to sub- suitable only for lacing Harvey Wallbangers. But murky dark brown and bitter as death. Bartenders stitute for higher-proof spirits in standard drinks, or the new “L’Autentico” version has a more herba- perversely adore Fernet’s minty wallop, and it’s to create innovative new low-alcohol cocktails. These ceous profile. Still a sunny, vibrant yellow and become a badge of honor in the cocktail commu- preprandials deserve all the attention they receive. with a silky, syrupy texture, the primary note is nity to love, or at least appreciate, Fernet. So it pains —KARA NEWMAN sweet anise, both on the nose and tongue, with a lingering clove, vanilla and licorice finish. Thick and viscous. A classic for gin-based APÉRITIF SPIRITS cocktails. Martini Rosato (Martini, Italy); 89 15% abv, $10. Rosy pink, as the Campari (Davide Campari, Milan, Averna Amari Siciliano (Fratelli name suggests. Initially has a sour aroma, fol- 96 Italy); 24% abv, $25. There’s no mis- 93 Averna S.p.A., Italy); 32% abv, lowed by some underlying sweet and fruity taking this classic apéritif, from the vibrant $30. Complex and appealingly herbal, this spirit notes. Sweet flavors of strawberry and pome- melted lipstick-red color to the distinctive signa- is marked by its coffee-brown color and a scent granate juice with a faintly bitter and refresh- ture bitter finish, clean, clear and strong. It’s high, like spearmint-spiked espresso. The flavor is ing finish and medium body. This vermouth bitter and faintly floral-fruity in scent. Ameri- sweet, faintly coffee-like, with warm Dutch would be pleasing in a sparkling wine fizz. canos and Negronis wouldn’t be the same with- licorice, anise and sarsaparilla notes. The brisk out this jewel-like spirit. finish is minty then bitter. Heavy, syrupy feel. Noilly Prat Rouge (Noilly Prat, 85 Marseillan, France); 18% abv, $10. Carpano Antico Formula (Distil- Lillet (Lillet, France). 17% abv, $16. Nut-brown, this is tinged with pale green and a 95 lerie Branca, Turin, Italy); 16.5% 93 A light, breezy apéritif for white wine deep, sweet winy aroma. There is a full, slightly abv, $30/L. This dark, mysterious vermouth is lovers. This golden-orange liquid has a tart apple herbal flavor, with lingering dried fruit and rich, complex and layered, boasting aromas of and citrus scent, with a touch of honeysuckle Sherry notes. Medium body, mouth-coating feel. mint and other herbs, plums and figs, reminis- behind that, and a honeyed flavor with a dry, cent of Madeira. The rich flavors are hard to pin faintly spiced finish. Light-bodied and drinkable, Martini & Rossi Rosso (Martini, down: cocoa, red wine, almonds, bitter mar- made even more so with the addition of lime juice 84 Italy); 15% abv, $8. Medium brown, malade, hints of spice and toffee all play across and club soda. Pair with cheese or charcuterie. with a tangy aroma tinged with a note of dried the palate, finishing with a bracing bitter edge. fruit. Flavors are sweet, like figs and dates, fin- This delectable sweet vermouth would shine in a Punt e Mes (Distillerie Branca, ishing relatively dry with a bitter star-anise Manhattan. 93 Italy); 16% abv, $25. This sweet ver- note. Ice coaxes out more sweetness and a mouth is deep and intriguing, from the dark winy pleasant plumminess. Chartreuse Green (Les Peres Char- color to the plummy, raisin-like fragrance. A 95 treux, Voiron, France); 55% abv, fleeting sweetness, redolent of dried fruit and Noilly Prat Original French Dry $50. This light green liquid features musky, juicy prune notes, gives way to a dry, bitter finish, 83 (Noilly Prat, Marseillan, France); herbal and botanical aromas: star anise, tarragon, which saves it from becoming cloying. Medium 18% abv, $10. Apple-juice golden yellow in basil and Dutch licorice. Flavors are bold and to heavy in feel. Very easy drinking, especially hue, with a smoky, fruity, slightly mentholated sweet, with a slight earthiness and alcohol heat. with ice, and it’s easy to imagine sipping this, well scent. This vermouth braces up with ice, becom- Finishes sharp, herbal, grassy, floral and complex. chilled, on a hot day. Highly Negroni-worthy. ing more dry and citrusy.

90 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 THE WINE ENTHUSIAST SPIRITS BUYING GUIDE

The Spirits Buying Guide is a summary of recent detailed evaluations and product ratings of a single reviewer, Spirits Reviewer Kara Newman. Every tasting note is accompanied by a rating. Also noted are the full name of the product, its alcoholic strength expressed as percent alcohol by volume, the producer’s name, and the suggested U.S. retail price. If the price cannot be confirmed, an $NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottle unless otherwise indicated.

TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS Tastings are conducted individually in a controlled tast- ing environment. Spirits are tasted alone; no formal reviews are ever conducted in the presence of any pro- ducer or industry representative. Samples are tasted blind in flights of no more than six to eight products. Price is not a factor in the evaluation.

ABOUT THE SCORES Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accom- panying tasting note to learn about each spirit’s special characteristics. The numerical ratings correspond to quality in the following manner:

Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances.

Spirits receiving a rating below 80 are not reviewed.

Certain spirits are designated as Best Buys. Spirits earn- ing this designation offer a high level of quality in rela- tion to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys.

SUBMITTING SPIRITS FOR REVIEW Spirits should be submitted to the following reviewing location: Kara Newman c/o 36 West 20th St, 3rd Floor, New York, NY, 10011. Inquiries should be addressed to Spirits Reviewer Kara Newman at [email protected]. There is no charge for submitting spirits, and Wine Enthusiast will make every effort to sample all spirits submitted for review. There is, however, no guarantee that all submissions will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All submissions must be accompanied by a submission form, which may be downloaded from our website. Please be sure to check the spirits tasting schedule prior to submit- ting samples.

LABELS Labels are paid promotions. Producers and their representatives are given the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza by phone at 813.571.1122; by fax at 866.896.8786; or email [email protected].

Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com

WineMag.com | 9 1 BUYING I GUIDE

two months in San Pasqual Tawny Port barrels. Beer The latte-colored head is ridiculous, taking over the glass and then falling slowly. There’s a soft PORTER’S IDENTITY CRISIS booziness to the bouquet, with aromas of choco- late sauce, sweet spice, caramel and dark fruit t’s one of the most common questions asked and, for some reason, more defined. People feel keeping it together. The mouth is full and roasty about beer: What is the difference between a confident in what they can expect from the con- with a soft alcohol kick livening up the oak- Istout and a porter? With such strong similari- tents of a bottle of stout; the same isn’t as true infused finish. ties between their aromas and flavors as well as with porters. their structures and balance, it’s difficult to get a But porter’s day has come. It’s time to give the Southern Tier Porter (American grasp on what exactly the difference is between style another go if you’ve been reluctant. 90 Porter; Southern Tier Brewing, the two, if any. Interpretation and personalization are key. NY); 5.2% abv, $10/12 oz 6 pack. Looks The answer is, there are no strict differences. There are “traditional” offerings, like English or almost black until you hold it up to the light and Historically and presently the two styles are very Baltic porters, and then there are newer styles see tiny glimmers of red along the rim. Aromas of similar in overall profile and ingredients used. A being developed by American craft brewers with licorice, caramel and toasted nuts are assertive stout was considered a stronger version of a the use of additional ingredients (like coffee or but not aggressive. Sweeter flavors of toffee, dark porter or, if you prefer, a porter was originally chocolate) and techniques (like oak aging). berries and cocoa powder develop after a swal- perceived as a lighter stout. Porters can also vary The style lines are once again blurred as inno- low, with a soft hop bitterness spicing up the fin- widely, resulting in a bitter roasty beer or a vative brewers are thinking outside the box and ish. A quaffer for sure. sweeter chocolaty one and everything in trying recipes and methods that have never been between. used before. Perfect for those cold winter nights, Napa Smith Bonfire Imperial But the strange thing is that most people are here are some great brews to start off your porter 89 Porter (American Porter; Napa comfortable with stouts but not with porters. experimentation. Smith Brewery, CA); 8.0% abv, $5/22 oz. Stouts are more recognizable, more available Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo Here’s a winter seasonal release that’s perfect for cold weather nights. Mild for the Imperial sta- tus, the balanced and approachable hops mingle Deschutes Black Butte Porter dence, smooth and creamy, with thick molasses nicely with the typical roasted malt and mocha 94 (American Porter; Deschutes and espresso grind accents on the close. notes. Accents of smoke and molasses add com- Brewing, OR); 5.2% abv, $9/12 oz 6 pack. plexity to the finish. Easy to drink and would pair Very dark brown with beautiful lacing left after Smuttynose Robust Porter (Amer- well with a complete menu, from pot roast to the head subsides. The aromas are dark and 93 ican Porter; Smuttynose Brewing chocolate dessert. decadent: coffee, roasted grain, burnt sugar and Company, NH); 5.7% abv, $9/12 oz 6 bittersweet chocolate. The same flavors appear pack. Dark brown with a strong khaki head and Telegraph Stock Porter (American in the medium-bodied, silky mouth, with a rich excellent retention. Roasted malts dominate with 87 Porter; Telegraph Brewing Com- finish like a café mocha. A touch of sweet spice supporting notes of sweet chocolate and coffee pany, CA); 5.7% abv, $8/750 ml. Almost and hop bite lingers on the finish. Best Buy. backed by accents of earthy hops. Medium-thick black in the glass with a serious tan head. Appro- weight, almost a touch chewy, and well carbon- priately roasty and chocolaty with interesting Samuel Smith’s The Famous ated with a dry and mildly astringent finish. underlying notes of dried blackberry, black plum 94 Taddy Porter (English Porter; Smooth and balanced with a fullness that’s satisfy- skins, oak and soft sour nuances, making it some- Samuel Smith Old Brewery (Tadcaster), ing but not too heavy. Best Buy. what wine-like. Lively but rich and smooth on United Kingdom); 5.0% abv, $4/550 ml. A the palate with light carbonation and attractive very drinkable, well-balanced yet weighty porter. Maui Brewing CoCoNut Porter flavors of molasses, biscuit and dried dates. Pours dark brown with a full tan-colored head. 92 (American Porter; Maui Brewing The mouthfeel is medium-weight, full and satis- Co., HI); 5.7% abv, $10/12 oz 6 pack. This fying, with good carbonation. Aromas and flavors one pours with a seriously large, thick head that of roasted malt, toffee, bitter cocoa and very soft lingers. Cocoa powder, softly smoked nuts and hops with a strong nutty, smoky backbone. rich roasted malt flavors abound. Sweet chocolate unfolds on the palate, with nuances of raw Founders Porter (American coconut and toffee in the background. The finish 93 Porter; Founders Brewing, MI); shows a touch of hop spice, and the coconut 6.5% abv, $10/12 oz 6 pack. The bottle comes out more after warming. Canned. reads “dark, rich & sexy” and boy is it right. This is a fuller, weightier example of the style, with Karl Strauss Parrot in a Palm Tree balanced but forward roasted coffee bean, bitter- 90 Holiday Baltic Porter (Baltic sweet chocolate, licorice stick and smoky vanilla Porter; Karl Strauss Brewing, CA); 8.5% aromas and flavors. The mouthfeel is sheer deca- abv, $6/22 oz. An interesting porter that’s aged

92 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2011 THE WINE ENTHUSIAST BEER BUYING GUIDE

The Beer Buying Guide is a summary of recent detailed evaluations and product ratings of a single reviewer, Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo. Every tasting note is accompanied by a rating. Also noted are the full name of the product, beer style, alcoholic strength expressed as percent alcohol by volume, producer’s name, and the suggested/average U.S. retail price. If price cannot be confirmed, an $NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for the bottle size or packaging indicated.

TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS Formal evaluation sessions occur in a professional tast- ing room. Beers are tasted alone; no formal reviews are ever conducted in the presence of any producer or industry representative. Samples are tasted blind in flights of no more than six products; the category being reviewed may or may not be divulged. Price is not a factor in the evaluation.

ABOUT THE SCORES The numerical ratings correspond to quality in the following manner:

Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recom- mended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances.

Certain beers are designated as Best Buys. Beers earning this designation offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys. Cellar Selections are beers that would be good candidates for cellaring.

SUBMITTING BEERS FOR REVIEW Beers should be submitted to Wine Enthusiast’s head- quarters at 333 North Bedford Road, Mt. Kisco, NY 10549. Inquiries and submissions should be addressed to Lauren Buzzeo at [email protected]. There is no charge for submitting beers, and Wine Enthusiast will make every effort to sample all beers submitted for review. There is, however, no guarantee that all submissions will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All submissions must be accompanied by a submission form, which may be downloaded from our website.

LABELS Labels are paid promotions. Producers and their rep- resentatives are given the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza by phone at 813.571.1122; by fax at 866.896.8786; or e-mail [email protected].

Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com

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