NORTHERN TANZANIA Including Anarrayofcultural Tourismprograms( P204 )

NORTHERN TANZANIA including anarrayofCultural TourismPrograms( p204 ). safari. Ifyoudon’tmindroughingthingsabit,there are someinexpensive alternatives, isTanzania’scaveat isprice–thenorth mostcostlyregion, especiallyifyoudoanorganised and elsewhere (KIA),amajor hub.The main International inEastAfrica viaKilimanjaro Airport accommodation anddiningoptionsinmajortowns. There’s direct airaccessfromEurope brushbyinWesternwhile officeworkers dress. with mud-thatchhouses,andred-cloaked Maasaiwarriorsfollowcenturies-oldtraditions ecosystem inallthecontrasts,asworld-classsafarilodgesjostleforspace orsimplytake Valley intheRift take Manyara,experiencethesubtletiesofTarangire vistasaroundLake ofmaize.a kilo Enjoydelightfulhighlandlodgesamidthecoffee plantationsaroundKaratu, drawtradersfrommilesaroundtohaggleovermarkets everything fromaheadofcattleto ren landscapesoftheCrater offer andlively Highlands rural ruggedbutsatisfyinghiking; beautiful MtMerubeckonswithunforgettable sunrisepanoramasfromitssummit;thebar- safari circuit,there’s muchmore: hauntingcallsofwater birdsfilltheairatserene Eyasi; Lake arethe mainattractions tothetopofAfrica trekking andwildlife watchingonthenorthern Tanzaniaof theSerengeti, northern embodieswhatisformanyquintessential Africa. While NgorongoroCrater thewildlife-packed andthevastplains With snow-cappedMtKilimanjaro, TanzaniaNorthern 180 © LonelyPlanetPublications Exploring northern TanzaniaExploring northern isrelatively easy.Touristinfrastructure isgood,withmany

HIGHLIGHTS

Taking Valley inthestunning Rift vistas Watchingelephantsamidgnarledbaobabs Trekking on Descending intotheethereal blue-green uptothesounds andrhythmsof Waking around in Meru’s catching thesun’sfirstraysfromMt vistas of the Tarangire NationalPark Serengeti LakeManyara Rhino Point Ngorongoro Crater Mt Kilimanjaro ( p216) (p209) (p212) (p214) 11) or (p191), ( p223) National Park Serengeti Lake Manyara National Park Ngorongoro Crater National Park Tarangire Mt Meru Kilimanjaro Mt

ὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ

ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅ

ὅ NORTHERN TANZANIA

ὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ

Ὀ Babati ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅ ὅ

Same Tanga (280km); Dar es Salaam (490km) Salaam es Dar (280km); Tanga

Giting

(235km)

Kitangiri

To Lushoto (140km); Korogwe (190km); Korogwe (140km); Lushoto To

To Dodoma To

(1570m)

Lake

National Reserve National NR

181 NP

Ngahari

Dongobesh Zange Gate Zange

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Mkomazi s

c Game Reserve Game GR Balangida

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A A104

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a ὅ

Kisangara Lolkisale

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K d e

ya Mungu ya

Mwanga

Nyumba

u u

Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ Kuchinja Kwa

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Manyara

To Shinyanga To

Eyasi To Voi To

International

Lake

s M

Makuyuni Lake Kilimanjaro a

Taveta

Manyara

Himo

Mang'ola

Lake Holili

Mwadui

Moshi Karatu Arusha

Mto wa Mbu wa Mto Monduli

Marangu

Miwaleni

(4566m)

(3188m)

Lake

Machame

Mt Meru Mt Oldeani

(5896m)

Juu

Arusha

Crater Mt Kilimanjaro Mt

(2660m)

Sanya

ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ (3107m)

Ngorongoro

Monduli

Lemagurut

Kilimanjaro Crater Highlands Crater NP

West Mt Kilimanjaro Mt

Loitokitok

Engaruka

GR Area

Maswa A104

Conservation

Ndutu

(2865m)

Ngorongoro

Gorge

a Lake

Kitumbeini

(2629m) P Olduvai (2878m)

t Longido (2614m) Mt Longido Mt

ὅ

Lengai e

Kerimasi

r Ol Doinyo Ol

S NP

NP Amboseli

ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ

ὈὈὈ Serengeti

ὅ

Maswa

(60km)

Namanga (2941m)

To Mwanza To

Gelai

Magu

Seronera

K E N Y A Y N E K R

Natron

i r

Lake d

f r

r o

t n

Gulf r

e Speke W River ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ

ὈὈ Grumeti

(35km)

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To Ukerewe To

Bunda

Ikorongo

Olmesutye Lobo

V Grumeti

TANZANIA NORTHERN

l Gate & Springs

Bologonya

Mara NR Mara e Masai Masai

ὈὈὈὈ

y ὈὈ Victoria (70km)

(45km)

To Musoma To Lake To Nairobi To

NORTHERN TANZANIA NORTHERN 0 60 miles 60 0 0 100 km 100 0 lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN TANZANIA 8pm Mon-Sat) Next tothe 8pm Mon-Sat) Next Coffee Shop. Fahari CyberCafé Fahari EasyCom ACCESSINTERNET Immigration office IMMIGRATION OFFICE than nearby Arusha. for acoupleof days.It’salsoless expensive to relax placeinitsownright enough pleasant it’sa for climbingMtKilimanjaro,although ary schools in the country. per-capitahighest concentrationsof second- a major educationalcentre, withoneof the populated Kilimanjaroregiondensely and growing regions. of It’salsothecapital the the centre of oneof Tanzania’s major coffee- perous feel, dueinlarge as parttoitsstatus pros- Asian influences,andaself-sufficient, in thetrees, anappealingblendof Africanand a low-key placewithmarabou storksperched troduction tothesplendours of thenorth.It’s of MtKilimanjaro,makes anunassumingin- Moshi, which sitsatabout 850m atthefoot % MOSHI work covers almost all directions. near Tarangire NationalPark. Thebusnet- asfarKwaKuchinja,the route is tarmac the NgorongoroCrater. Heading southwest, to ning fromDaresSalaamviaMoshithrough An airstrip isplannedsoonnear Eyasi. Lake ManyaraLake andTarangire NationalParks. Arusha airport,andtoairstrips inSerengeti, Kilimanjaro International Airport(KIA)and There are goodairconnectionsinto and Tarangire National Parks. clude theextended ecosystems of theSerengeti Area. Otherprotected areasConservation in- Kilimanjaro NationalParks andNgorongoro Tarangire, Manyara, Lake Arusha andMt lar protected areas inthecountry:Serengeti, inthemostpopu- ‘northern circuit’taking region onthetourist map,withthefamed Northern Tanzania’s parkshave putthis National Parks&Reserves 182 bout; perhrTsh1000; Mon-Fri) Visa extensions handledwhile Visaextensions Mon-Fri) you wait. Information Getting There&Around Most visitors use Moshi as a starting point Moshiasastarting Most visitors use run- highway The mainroadisthetarmac 027 OTENTNAI • Msi TANZANIANORTHERN ••Moshi (Ground fl, Kahawa House,Clock Towerrounda- (Ground fl,Kahawa (Hill St;per hrTsh1000; (Hill h (BomaRd; 7.30am-8.30pm) h 7.30am-3.30pm h 8.30am- see see www.kiliweb.com. for longer-term Forlistingsandinfo, stays. Klmnao Rd. Kilimanjaro oftown off medical facilitiesinMoshi;3kmnorthwest considered tohavethebest 4377/8; SokoineRd)Generally 6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pmSat)Cashandtravellers 6pm Mon-Fri, cheques. 6pm) Opposite TTCL. cheques; ATM (Visa card). from Tsh200 per minute. Cirrus). hr Tsh1000; Clock Tower. roundabout; oftheClockTower Sun) Northeast roundabout. Lane) Next to Standard Chartered toStandardChartered Lane) Next Bank. Moshi Rd)Airline bookings. TTCL Telephone Service EasyCom TELEPHONE Bank Standard Chartered Stanbic Bank NBC Exim Bank deChange Bureau Executive MONEY Centre Medical Christian Kilimanjaro Hospital First HealthCRCT &EMERGENCIESMEDICAL SERVICES Twiga CommunicationsCybercafé Kicheko.com ing a glimpse ofing aglimpse Kilimanjaro, which hovers mosques andIndian traders. Alsofuniscatch- with itsvaguelyAsian flavour, Hindutemple, the area aroundthemarket andMawenzi Rd, phere andmakes aninteresting walk,especially Moshiisfullof activityandatmos- Central Sights &Activities Emslies For trekking operators, see p54 . TRAVEL AGENCIES Shop the sells othertravellers.places tomeet TheCoffee Rd) Mawenzi 4054; www.kindorokohotel.com; the rooftop barat Coffee Lounge CoffeeShop The TOURIST INFORMATION Maestro, Maestro, Cirrus). (ClockTowerroundabout)Cashandtravellers (cnr Boma & Mawenzi Rds)Cardphones;nearthe (cnrBoma&Mawenzi ( % (Ground fl, Kahawa House,ClockTower (Groundfl,Kahawa h (Boma Rd) ATM (Visa, MasterCard, Maestro, Maestro, (BomaRd)ATM MasterCard, (Visa, h 027-275 2701;[email protected]; Old (Mawenzi Rd;perhrTsh1000; (Mawenzi (Boma Rd) ATM (Visa, MasterCard, (BomaRd)ATM MasterCard, (Visa, 8.30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pmSat& 8.30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-8.30pm) Internationaldialling

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Moshi Guide, % ( % (ClockTowerroundabout; 027-275 1006;ChaggaSt) 027-275 2707; Hill St), 027-275 2707;Hill Kindoroko Hotel Hotel Kindoroko (Rindi Lane)ATM(Rindi (Visa). ( % (BomaRd; 027-275 4051; Rindi 027-275 4051;Rindi with useful info withuseful lonelyplanet.com (OldMoshiRd;per ( h % h ( are good % h Tanzania 9am-8pm) 027-275 8.30am- 027-275 and 8am- NORTHERN TANZANIA C5 B5 B5 C5 C6 C5 C3 C4 C4 D3 C3 D3 C3 C4 C5 C4 C3 C3 C3 C5 B5 183 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56

(400m) To Golden Marangu Rd Marangu To Key’s Hotel Shower Restaurant

D (Closed) & Camping (1.5km);

Rd Kaunda St Kaunda Train Station

Honey Badger Cultural Keys Mbokomu (4km); Dar es Salaam (555km)

13 Uru Rd Old Moshi Old 28 25 17 Centre (5km); Marangu (40km); 14 33

51 Kibo Rd Kibo Rindi Ln 2 16 8 1 Taxi Stand...... C3 Dalla-Dalla Stand...... Dar Express Bus Office...... Impala Shuttle...... Precision Air...... Riverside Shuttle...... Royal Coach Bus Office...... Scandinavian Express Bus Office... Taxi Stand...... Abbas Ally's Hot Bread Shop... Aleem's Grocery...... Chrisburger...... Coffee Shop...... Deli Chez...... Hill Street Food Snacks & Take Away...... (see 21) Indotaliano Restaurant...... Salzburger Café...... Tanzania Coffee Lounge...... Our Heritage...... Shah Industries...... Tahea Kili Crafts...... Air Tanzania...... Akamba Bus Office...... (see 23) Central Bus Station...... EATING SHOPPING TRANSPORT 53 11 50 18

Uru Ave 37

Rd 7 56 Clock

aro 12 Tower 00 0.2 miles 400 m 15

anj 52 48 46

Catholic Rengua Rd

Cathedral 44 47 St Ghalla

To Kilimanjaro Christian Medical Centre (3km); Kilemakyaro Lodge (7km); Kibosho (12km) Kilim

3 5 20 10 Rd Mawenzi 22 9

55 Nkomo Rd Ln Rindi 54 40 C5 B5 B5 B4 D2 C5 D3 D4 C4 A2 C5 C4 C5 B5 D3 A5 B5 D3 34 6

4 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 St New 45

Horombo Rd 23

43 Makinga St 35

29 Chagga St 36 38 39 27 24

Boma Rd

Riadha St 42

Market St Market Liwali St Sokoine Rd Sokoine Hill St 30 To Hostel Aga Khan Rd Hoff (200m)

Market 32 St Selous

Taifa Rd Taifa KNCU Building & Kahawa & Moshi Expeditions Zara Tanzania Adventures...... C3 St Kawawa SLEEPING Kindoroko Hotel...... Leopard Hotel...... Lutheran Umoja Hostel...... Parkview Inn...... YMCA...... Zebra Hotel...... Shamba Booking Office...... Shamba Booking Mountaineering...... Mosque...... Shah Tours...... A&A Hill St Accommodation.... Bristol Cottages...... Buffalo Hotel...... Haria Hotel...... Horombo Lodge...... Kenyatta Court Hotel...... Kilimanjaro Backpackers Hotel.... Kilimanjaro Crane Hotel...... Arusha Rd 31 Chagga St D3 C3 C4 C4 D3 D3 C5 C3 D3 C3 C3 C3 C3 C4 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

41 Liwali St Kenyatta St Kenyatta Kiusa 26 •• Moshi NORTHERN TANZANIA

AC Pare Ave To Moshi Executive Bureau de Change...... INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Telephone Service...... C4 Twiga Communications Akaro Tours...... Hindu Temple...... Stanbic Bank...... Standard Chartered Bank...... TTCL...... Cybercafé...... First Health CRCT Hospital...... First Health CRCT Immigration Office...... Kicheko com...... Kilimanjaro Porter Assistance Project Office...... (see 27) NBC Bank...... EasyCom...... Emslies...... Exim Bank...... 21) Fahari Cyber Café...... (see Airport (3km) To Umbwe (14km); Machame (26km); Kilimanjaro International Arusha (80km) Airport (45km); MOSHI 19 5 2 3 1 6 4 To Lutheran Uhuru Hostel (700m); Glacier Inn (1km); Impala Kilimanjaro Hotel (1.5km); AMEG Lodge (1.5km); Sal Salinero Villa (1.7km); El Rancho (2km) Sekou Toure Rd lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN TANZANIA Rd) 5159; www.kilimanjarobackpackers.com; Mawenzi Rd; Mawenzi 5159; www.kilimanjarobackpackers.com; Rd; campingTsh3000) It’s 1.5kmnortheastof thecentre alongthe hot-water showers andarestaurant-bar. with asmall,shaded area topitch atent, a bar and restaurant. Kindoroko Hotel. Ithassmall, cleanrooms, managementrun bythesame asthenearby Hotel,Costa thisbackpacker’s is standby s/d withoutbathroom US$4/8/15) Rd. Marangu Golden ShowerRestaurant BUDGET old church.German to dalla their guests.Anotherexcursion: take a ( p187 ), where allhotels organise hikes for p186)orinMachameKilemakyaro Lodge (see plore outof yourself them, base townat linked byeasy-to-follow footpaths. Toex- Moshi onKilimanjaro’slowerslopesare Machame, Umbweandothertownsabove 4.30pm Sun)atthe Tsh3000/1500; whenthe in theevening clouds part. over thehorizontonorth,andisbestseen 184 Sleeping ; no bikinis permitted. Kilimanjaro Backpackers Hotel Backpackers Kilimanjaro The area outsideMoshiisbeautiful,and There’s a25m swimmingpool(adult/child best brew. Coffee LoungeandtheCoffee Shop,bothinMoshi.Alsosee p80 fortipsonwhere toget the rest comingfromcooperatives andprivate estates. Victoria.Lake More than90%ofTanzanian coffee isgrownontinysmallholderfarms,withthe in taste lessexpensive andusedtomake blendsandsolublecoffees, isgrownaroundwestern MtMeruandintheSouthernHighlands. around MtKilimanjaro, higher-quality isusedtomake coffee specialitycoffees, exports, andiswhatyou’llseegrowing tions andvolatileworldprices–isstillalinchpinofthenationaleconomy. Tanzania’s abeatingfromadverse crop,andtoday–despite weathercondi- taking mainexport cooperatives amongtheChaggainandaroundMoshi.During1960scoffee surpassedsisalas the Britishcolonialera,industryflourished,withformationofsuccessfulcoffee-marketing the turnof19thcentury,after beingintroducedbyJesuitmissionariesfromRéunion.During much ofthepastcentury. inmorebean thathas(togetherwithtrekking, recent thetown’seconomyalive years)kept for Together withBukoba,MoshiisoneofTanzania’s centres, coffee-growing andit’sthisaromatic TANZANIA & COFFEE Kibosho (minibus) from the central bus station (minibus)fromthecentralbusstation OTENTNAI • Msi TANZANIANORTHERN ••Moshi Many souvenir andcoffee shopssellgift-packaged bagsoffresh coffee, includingtheTanzania There are twotypesofcoffee. Coffee, whichissaidtohave originated insouthwestern Ethiopia,cametoTanzania around (Tsh500, 12km),where there’s an h Conveniently located, 9am-6pm Mon-Sat,to YMCA

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% FormerlytheDa ( % 027-275 1990;Taifa 027-275 1754;Taifa

Coffea arabica, ( % 027-275 dalla- whichaccountsforjustunder75%ofTanzanian straightforward roomswithfanandnet, straightforward Hotel has andpopularBuffalo long-standing perennially busyplaceaneasy walkfromthe 4608/3365; www.hbcc-campsites.com; campingperperson food. no and mosquitonets,arooftop patiobut no-frills hasroomswithfans establishment Hotel management, andunderthesame this Tsh6000/10,000) Rd;dwithout/withbathroom.com; Mawenzi bus stand, with smallbutclean andgood- bus stand, room US$15/45; Rd;s/d US$15/30,d/trwithoutbath- hotels.com; Mawenzi There’s no breakfast. café andinexpensive restaurant justbelow. withaninternetone blockfromthebusstand, rooms withfansinaconvenient locationjust Tsh12,000/15,000/18,000) St;s/d/tr 0754-299469; [email protected];Hill off Mawenzi Rd. a restaurant. Theentranceisonasmallstreet s/d Tsh12,000/15,000, dwithoutbathroomTsh10,000) town off the Marangu road. can bearranged atextracost.It’s6kmfrom dorm block.Culturalactivities in aseparate or lawn, plusbasicroomsinthefamilyhouse, family-run placewithcampingonanenclosed with hotshowerUS$5;rperpersonUS$25;mealsUS$5) Honey Badger Cultural Centre Honey BadgerCultural Hotel Haria Buffalo Hotel Kindoroko Hotel Kindoroko Accommodation Street A&A Hill Diagonallyopposite Kindoroko i

( %

Coffea robusta, ( ) Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels % Another long-standing and Anotherlong-standing 027-275 4054;www.kindorokohotels

( % Clean,quiet,good-value 027-275 0270,2752775;NewSt; 027-275 4054;www.kindoroko- more neutral (

% ( 027-275 3455, % 027-275 The A NORTHERN TANZANIA )

185 ) Well- as s 027-275 3443/4; 027-275 3443/4; 027-275 1114; www % (

% ( This small business

) Comfortable, spacious ) 027-275 5083; [email protected]; 027-275 2250; www.keys-hotels027-275 2250; 027-275 0711; www.pvim.com; Aga Aga 027-275 0711; www.pvim.com; 027-275 2240, 027-275 0420; salinero ai 027-275 0175; www.ameglodge.com; %

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A private villa with sevenA private spacious, This reliable and recommended and recommended This reliable ) ) Spotless, modern attached – some cottages ) Parkview Inn Impala Kilimanjaro Hotel AMEG Lodge Kilimanjaro Crane Hotel Bristol Cottages Key’s Hotel signposted off Lema Rd in Shanty Town. Shanty Lema off signposted Rd in www.impalahotel.com; Rd; s/d US$72/83; Lema rooms in prim and tranquil appointed 4km It’s about grounds, plus a restaurant. the clock tower roundabout in northwest of with air-con and others with fans – in quiet and others with air-con Bank. grounds adjoining Standard Chartered also newer rooms in a two-storey are There small restaurant. block, and a TOP END Sal Salinero Villa [email protected]; s/d US$65/75, upstairs s/d US$75/85; ais well-equipped rooms, hardwood flooring, a winding staircase and an outdoor bar large, lawns. It’s in the Shanty surrounded by green Lema Rd. just off Town area, s/d from US$69/99; – with TV,rooms in detached cottages small and fans – setporches around a grassy com- It’s a restaurant. also a gym, and pound. There’s .kilimanjarocranehotels.com; Kaunda St; s/d US$40/50; ais rooms establishment has good-value midrange with fans, nets, TV beds backing a and large and is a restaurant small garden. Downstairs terrace- is a rooftop shop and upstairs souvenir running parallel side street It’s on a small bar. Rd. Moshi Old to and just east of Rindi Lane; s/d/tr cottages US$60/72/90, s/d from US$45/60; a appointed rooms in a busy downtown loca- a busy downtown rooms in appointed music bar. the Kili Attik is tion. Adjoining US$30/40, with air-con US$50/60; .com; Uru Rd; s/d Clock the of 1.5km northeast about Key’s, has been popular side street, Tower on a quiet is Accommodation for years. with travellers in the main rooms high-ceilinged in spacious, out back in small, dark rondavels building, or a restaurant for the same price, and there’s (s/d Mbokomu Keys If full, there’s and a bar. US$45/65), 4km from US$25/45, with air-con Rd. Marangu the town off Khan Rd; s/d US$40/50; travellers hotel has modern rooms with in- hotel travellers access, a quiet, central location and a ternet just off the It’s signposted small restaurant. Arusha road. ) This Clean i •• Moshi NORTHERN TANZANIA Bland but well- Spotless, good- Spotless, ) 027-275 4801; kenyatta 027-275 0902; uhuru a 027-275 4084; www.uhuru- % (

% % ( (

027-275 0884; www.leopardhotel 027-275 0611; New St; s/d/tr 027-275 0611; New St; s/d/tr 027-275 0134; horombohotel@ 0787-225908; www.foot2afrika.com; % % ( ( % % ( (

) Spartan, with views noisy rooms, some A new-ish high-rise to Buffalo next 027-275 1754; Taifa Rd; s/d without bathroom 027-275 1754; Taifa s % ( Other recommendations: Leopard Hotel Zebra Hotel Kenyatta Court Hotel Hostel Hoff Hostel Hoff @elct.org; cnr Market & Liwali Sts; s/d Tsh12,000/18,000, Clean, no-frills rooms without bathroom Tsh6000/10,000) small courtyard. around a yahoo.com; Old Moshi Rd; s/d US$20/30) Diagonally opposite a restaurant. Air, it has sterilePrecision rooms with fans and US$10/13; over Kilimanjaro, and a clean 25m swimming pool. It’s northon the roundabout between Kibo of the Clock Tower Rds. Taifa and .com; Market St; s/d US$35/45; and an ideal choice for families. and an ideal choice ganise the town safaris. It’s 3km northwest of in a taxi) on the Arusha road (Tsh2000 centre with shared facilities and kitchen. Rooms are Rooms are facilities and kitchen. with shared can or- and the hostel wheelchair-accessible, expansive grounds, and a good restaurant grounds, and a good restaurant expansive Across the street with meals from Tsh4000. rooms in a rustic annexe some budget are in the new wing have balconies – in leafy, balconies – in leafy, in the new wing have hostel.com; Sekou Toure Rd; s/d US$20/30, newer wing hostel.com; SekouUS$20/30, newer wing Rd; s/d Toure without bathroom US$15/20; US$40/50, annexe MIDRANGE MIDRANGE Lutheran Uhuru Hostel Horombo Lodge Lutheran Umoja Hostel YMCA US$30/35/45) with hot rooms with clean, good-value Hotel a restaurant. and water, a few blocks from Salzburger Café in the Kiusa blocks from Salzburger a few budget of clutch away from the main area, walk from the and about 15 minutes’ hotels, bus station. central [email protected]; Kenyatta Rd; s/d US$20/25) or fan and meals, rooms with nets and air-con on the right. on paved road. The hostel is about 200m further is about road. The hostel paved end of town – head west along the Arusha town end of for about roundabout road from the YMCA right300m, taking onto a small, un- the first Check out the website first. It’s at the northern It’s at the northern first. website Check out the for longer-term stays. Staff tips and can give for longer-term assistance for anyone who is seriously inter- volunteering in Moshi. in longer-term ested dm with half board & laundry US$15) dm with half board ideal accommodation that’s value hostel-style value rooms, a rooftop bar, a forex bureau bureau a forex bar, rooms, a rooftop value restaurant. a and Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book place has spotless good-value rooms – those good-value place has spotless NORTHERN TANZANIA ting, inagoodwalkingarea andwithwide undistinguished, butthehilltopset- though –areen suite stonerondavels fine, withTV meals aboutTsh4000; jarosafari.com; s/d/trUS$75/125/185) jarosafari.com; some vegetarian dishes, inagardensetting. Chagga St;snacksfromTsh1000; Sat, noon-4pmSun) coffees and cappuccino, waffles andancoffees andcappuccino,waffles Rd) (Boma Rd) Rd(no Lema public transport). It’s about3kmnorthwest of thecentre off h Hotel. Buffalo opposite part(mediocrethe Italian pizzas). It’sjust dark pavement restaurant isbetter than including someveg dishes–atthis small, tion of themenu–arange of standards, dishes continental and burgers. Indian food–bothveg andnonveg –plus Tsh7000; descriptions. menu (try Chicken Mambo Yote), allwithamusing ofwalls andaselection good,cheap dishes vests, Austrian with waiters sportingfaux-leopardskin at thisclassicplace,which comescomplete Tsh3500-5000; below A&AHillStreet Accommodation. from Tsh1500) connection. internet gotoa Proceeds church project. cakes, yogurt, breakfast meals. andlight fee, andanassortmentof homemadebreads, Sat) from Tsh1000; Coffee Shop Eating &Drinking Kilimanjaro in the distance. forsundownersrant andoutdoortables with (about Tsh6000 There’s inataxi). arestau- from thetowncentre theKiboshoroad off views, more It’sabout7km thancompensates. ment asImpalaHotel in Arusha. Shanty manage- Town,andunderthesame 186 , situated opposite. For self-catering, try For self-catering, El Rancho Deli Chez Café Salzburger FoodSnacks&Take Street Away Hill Tanzania CoffeeLounge Indotaliano Restaurant Indotaliano Restaurant Lodge Kilemakyaro A laid-back vibe, garden seating, goodcof- Alaid-back vibe,gardenseating, closed Monday) OTENTNAI • Msi TANZANIANORTHERN ••Moshi h or

lunch &dinner) Cheapplates of localfastfood h h

( ( % % Abbas Ally’s Hot Bread Shop Abbas Ally’sHotBread ( % 8am-5pm Mon, to 8pm Tue-Fri, to6pm 8am-5pm Mon,to8pmTue-Fri, 8am-11pm) Tasty Indianfood,including 027-275 1144; Hill St;mealsTsh3500-027-275 1144;Hill 027-275 2707; Hill St; snacks &meals 027-275 2707;Hill Milkshakes, bagels, great h 027-275 5115;mealsfromTsh4000; ( kneipe % 10am-11pm)

( 027-275 0681; Kenyatta St;meals 027-275 0681;Kenyatta % The Alps meet Africa The Alpsmeet Reasonablypriced (bar)décoronthe ( 027-275 4925;www.kiliman %

027-275 2195;NewSt; Roomshere –in ( h % Aleem’s Grocery The Indopor- 8am-7pm Mon- 027-275 1006; (Hill St;snacks (Hill

(Boma

just northof the Clock Tower. other crafts;nexttotheCoffee Shop. Air Mon-Fri, to2pmSat)Burgersand Mon-Fri, snacks. and Entebbe (Uganda) on Salaam (Tsh168,500), (Tsh168,500) Zanzibar www.kiliair.com. handles occasionalcharters. here Acontact is town alongtheextension of Market St,which small Moshiairportabout3kmsouthwestof There’s themainhighway. town off alsothe International Airport(KIA),50kmwestof Kilimanjaro toMoshiuse Most flights AIR Getting There&Away group. women’s and more; aportionof profits toalocal goes Shop, withbatiks,basketry, woodcarvings town over the railway tracks. It’ssouthofmade bypeoplewithdisabilities. .co.tz) Some placestotryforcrafts: Shopping Glacier Inn Chrisburger originating inArusha and departing Moshi 9.30am and10.30am; RoyalCoach (Tsh22,000), nating inArusha) at6.30am,7.15am, 8.30am, (Tsh17,000), with Moshidepartures (allorigi- Roundabout, and THB Bldg,BomaRd) in Arusha intransit;see p350 . towaitanhour you’llneed 11.30am, though departingMoshiat6.30am andtle buses, 1.30pm. Alternatively, take oneof theshut- from DaresSalaam,departingMoshiabout Marangu (Tsh1000, one hour). to Arusha (Tsh1200, oneto1½hours) and theday runthroughout andminibuses Buses BUS Nairobi (Kenya; US$227). (via Shinyanga, Tsh170,000 toMwanza)and connecting KIAwithDaresSalaam,Mwanza Rd) 5205; Rengua Drinks andlocal-stylemealsinalarge Drinks garden.

Shah Industries Industries Shah To DaresSalaam, lines includeDarExpress dailytoNairobi enrouteAkamba goes From KIA,there are toDares dailyflights Crafts Kili Tahea Our Heritage ( Other recommendations: % Leatherwork andothercrafts,many Leatherwork 027-275 3495;OldMoshiRd) (cnr Lema & Kilimanjaro Rds; (cnrLema &Kilimanjaro ( % , neartheClockTower.

(Hill St) (Hill 027-275 0419; Kibo Rd; 027-275 0419;Kibo is just off theClockTower isjustoff (

(Hill St) (Hill % Impala Carvings, beadworkand Carvings, 027-275 2414;shahind@kilinet Opposite theCoffee

( % Air Tanzania has daily flights hasdailyflights 275 3444; Kibo Rd) 275 3444;Kibo lonelyplanet.com Riverside h h ( 4pm-late) % 8am-5pm

Precision Precision 027-275 (1stfl, is NORTHERN TANZANIA 187 027-275 027-275 dalla-dalla % (

027-275 6948, 027-275 6948, % ( from the main Moshi from the main Moshi 0754-312896; www.makoa-farm.com; This restored 1930s farmstead 1930s farmstead This restored % A lovely place, with well-ap- place, A lovely ( )

dalla-dalla s based off the Arusha– in Kyalia village, 027 Makoa Farm For something more upmarket, Protea Protea upmarket, For something more Protea Hotel Aishi Machame The main budget option for organising option for organising The main budget Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating and beautiful, lush surrounding gardens gardens surrounding and beautiful, lush The an old country estate. of reminiscent 6km off the main highway is about and hotel to the right the road to the off signposted Machame trailhead. d full board US$268) village, village, Tsh700). a fine base for makes Aishi Machame Hotel and staff hikes, can set you up with guides the various routes and a full description of (see below) also Farm Makoa in the area. cultural walks and horserid- short arranges its guests. ing for option is home stays ar- The only budget Cultural through the Machame ranged Program. Tourism US$115/145; rooms with dark-wood furnishings pointed Machame Cultural Tourism Program 7033) road, somewhat past Machame Moshi Kilimanjaro’s 4km before proper, and about is in the centre trail head. Its office Machame Kyalia across the field from the of building with the stop and next to the blue flag. It’s usually closed, but staff Tanzanian in the nearby houses, so just ask around live is very Everything for cultural tourism. basic, and you’ll need to be self-sufficient reason- are but rates with food and water, per group per day for a guide able (Tsh6000 per day for village per person plus Tsh4000 Take development and administration fees). a Machame the line (Kyalia transport stand end of to the MACHAME MACHAME % vil- ill-defined and spread-out The rather about 25km northwest lies Machame of lage lower slopes, Moshi on Mt Kilimanjaro’s of and stands by densesurrounded vegetation through pass briefly Most visitors banana. of but with sev- Gate, to Machame en route hiking in the and enjoyable eral good hotels for alternative agreeable an it makes area those uninclined to conquer the mountain’s higher slopes. is the and cultural activities in the area hikes 027-275 6941; [email protected]; s/d depart depart •• Machame NORTHERN TANZANIA Dalla-dallas 027-275 1387; Mawenzi Rd) % ( 027-275 3908; cnr New & Makinga Sts) (Old Moshi Rd) Opposite KCNU Coffee Tree Tree (Old Moshi Rd) Opposite KCNU Coffee (Aga Khan (Aga Rd) Opposite the bus stand, and % (

Bus offices include the following: Bus offices

Except as noted, all transport leaves from from leaves Except all transport as noted, To get to Mwanza, the best lines are are Mwanza, the best lines to To get One block south of the bus stand, opposite the Hindu temple. One block south of the bus stand, opposite the just down from the mosque. just down from the Around the corner from Buffalo Hotel. Around the corner from Buffalo from next to the bus station. from next to the There are taxi stands near the Clock Tower are There and at the bus station. TAXI & DALLA-DALLA & DALLA-DALLA TAXI ing from their Moshi offices at 6pm daily and They with KLM flightcoordinated departures. on KLM. also meet arriving passengers fore flight time. Riverside and Impala ( p350 ) p350 and Impala ( flight Riverside time. fore to/from KIA (US$10), depart- a shuttle have free transport to/from KIA for their flights, transport to/from KIA free be- departing from their offices two hours TO/FROM THE AIRPORT TO/FROM THE AIRPORT Air have and Precision Both Air Tanzania Getting Around Getting Around Scandinavian Express Royal Coach Dar Express Akamba and book your ticket then, so that the next then, so that the next and book your ticket and board. morning you can just arrive leaving Moshi, the best thing is to go to the Moshi, the best thing is to go to the leaving without your luggage station the day before taxi even if it’s close to your hotel, enough to away from the station. When walk, just to get fray by the bus door. Unless you know Moshi, Unless you know Moshi, fray by the bus door. for a to Tsh2000 it’s worth paying the Tsh1500 disembarking and head straight over and hire and hire disembarking and head straight over caught in the rather than getting there, a driver the lines that let you disembark at their of- of fices). To minimise look for the area hassles, before gathered the taxis are the station where als, and it can be quite intimidating getting off getting intimidating als, and it can be quite one of to take is a good reason the bus (which is chaotic and full of touts and disreputable touts and disreputable of and full is chaotic new arriv- of advantage types wanting to take the central bus station in the town centre be- the central bus station in the town centre Rd. The station St and Mawenzi tween Market should be booked in advance. should be booked Scandinavian and Akamba, both of which which of and Akamba, both Scandinavian the afternoon ferry to Zanzibar, ferry the afternoon Dar Express’ in time. usually arrives 6.30am bus 12.30pm (Tsh23,000). Akamba also goes to 12.30pm (Tsh23,000). If from Nairobi. en route Dar (Tsh20,000), time for to Dar es Salaam in get trying to you’re at 10.15am; and Scandinavian Express, de- Express, Scandinavian and at 10.15am; and 9.30am (Tsh17,000) Moshi at parting Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book Hotel, off the Clock Tower roundabout. Hotel, off the Clock Tower Ὀ ὈὈὈὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈὈὈὈ Ὀ ὄὄ ὄὄὄ

NORTHERN TANZANIA enthusiasts only.There’s mini- atwo-night Animal-loversmain farmhouse. andnature ers andanassorted menagerie of pets inthe family-style together withtheown- served relax. Meals are madewithfarm produceand riding partners behindto whowanttostay its guestcottages make agoodbreak fornon- but safaris, forhorse-riding is primarilyabase 188 National Park Arusha (23km) Usa River(3km); To KILIMANJARO AREA Arusha Western Breach Ash Pit (5896m) Uhuru Kibo OTENTNAI • Mcae TANZANIANORTHERN ••Machame Peak Mweka Hut Stella Point Map (p208) National Park See Arusha (3100m)

ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὄ

Eastern Icefields Barafu 5600 (5680m) Gillman's Point

Hut Londorosi 5200 Londorosi Village Sanya

Sanya Juu 4800 Gate Cave (5182m) Meyer Hans (4700m) Kibo Hut

(4750m) International Airport (KIA) Kilimanjaro School Hut 4400

Shira Shira Peak Machame La Ukoyo (4394m) (3962m)

Jiwe Machame Plateau

Gate

Village

Route

Last Water T Shira Hut

(3840m) h Marangu

Machame Point e Kyalia Village Mt Kilimanjaro Zebra

National Park

Route Rock S

2miles 0 0 a

Site ofArrow

Route d Glacier Hut Mt Kilimanjaro Barranco (3950m) Last Water

Umbwe Point d Horombo Hut (4800m) Village Umbwe

Contour Interval400metres l (3700m) Hut Route e ὈὈ ὈὈ Barranco Wall Moshi Hans MeyerPeak 1:200,000 Mawenzi Hut Mawenzi (4400m) Village Mweka Western Breach Previous ridingexperience is required. itswebsite. andothermultidayrides,see safari West Kilimanjaro onitseight-day For details askfordirectionsotherwise when booking. knowtheturn-off; posted. MostMoshitaxis Moshi, off theMachame roadandunsign- ranged (forguestsonly).It’sabout 17kmfrom

(5149m) Kibo Marangu Uhuru Peak mum stay; walkingandshort ridescanbear-mum stay; Mweka (5896m) Route

4400 3200

3600 4000 Rongai Peak (5149m)

Hans Meyer Route 4 km Salaam (530km) Rongai

To Dares Route Hut (2700m) Mandara

See Enlargement Marangu Nairobi (236km) To Namanga(85km); Marangu Village Maundi Crater

0 0 Route Himo Kilimanjaro National Marangu Gate(1980m) Park Headquarters& Loitokitok K ENYA Holili lonelyplanet.com Mombasa (250km) To Voi(110km); Taveta Chala Lake 12 miles To Tsavo 20 km (99km) NORTHERN TANZANIA

189 8am- h in Mt in Mt day hike , a small, outdoor , a small, outdoor , with views and the Chagga Live Museum walks and cultural activi- (per hr Tsh2000; (per hr Tsh2000; to Kibosho-Umbwe 027-275 6513/6604; kiliman % (

10am-5pm) Ngangu Hill dalla-dalla h On the pricey side, but reliable On the pricey side, but reliable in the area. Good bets for learning more Good bets for learning more in the area. It’s possible to do a Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating Information Information small, old Kilema mission church nearby. church small, old Kilema mission [email protected]; camping US$8, rondavel/chalet per [email protected]; camping US$8, rondavel/chalet per person US$12/15) trim and well-maintained, with expansive, for hire tents showers, grounds, hot-water to six- per day) and several four- (Tsh10,000 700m It’s about and chalets. rondavels person 6pm) Behind the post office. 6pm) Behind the post per day) guides (US$10 to US$15 per person including to other attractions in the area, used by the Chagga for hiding that were caves raids about 200 years Maasai during the era of work- local blacksmiths’ tree, ago, a sacred 6km southwest About shops and waterfalls. is Marangu of Hut (about two hours as far as Mandara Gate for up, one hour down; US$60 per person at per guide, arranged plus US$10 park fees, park gate). the BUDGET Coffee Tree Campsite Marangu Computer Centre Sights & Activities can arrange Most hotels ties Banana Jungle Lodge are about local culture and Kilimanjaro Mountain Resort, both of traditional of authentic models have which Chagga houses. At Kilimanjaro Mountain also the Resort, there’s (admission US$2; museum illustrating traditional Chagga life. English-speaking can also provide Most hotels Kilimanjaro National Park from Marangu from Marangu Kilimanjaro National Park means means •• Marangu NORTHERN TANZANIA marangu is a laudable community-owned and community-run venture that offers that offers venture community-owned and community-run is a laudable 027-275 0464, 027-275 2785, 0784-517995; www.kirurumu.net/kahawa/index.htm;027-275 0464, per % (

027 (Tsh800, 45 minutes), from where you’ll need to walk 20 to 30 minutes to the Lyamungo-Kibera to the 20 to 30 minutes you’ll need to walk (Tsh800, from where 45 minutes), and Kahawaarea Shamba. COMMUNITY TOURISM SPOTLIGHT: KAHAWA SHAMBA KAHAWA COMMUNITY SPOTLIGHT: TOURISM Kahawa Shamba insights into the lives of the Chagga coffee farmers who live on Kilimanjaro’s lower slopes. It It on Kilimanjaro’s slopes. lower who live farmers coffee of the Chagga the lives insights into about of Machame and Lyamungo village, southeast handful of Chagga huts near consists of a they are authentically constructed, While the huts are near Umbwe village. 27km from Moshi and clean and are showers and twin beds, as en suite with modern amenities such outfitted comfortable. walks and horseriding, be arranged, as can guided with local families can Meals Book at least two production methods. learning about local coffee village and family visits, and via email, or at Kahawaweeks in advance, either Shamba’s Moshi booking in the KNCU office Tower roundabout. From Moshi, takebuilding just off the Clock a person full board US$110/196) person full board Thanks to the large influx of foreign foreign influx of Thanks to the large Marangu is also the heartland of the the is also the heartland of Marangu MARANGU MARANGU school tuition fees for their children. for tuition fees school vendors hawk their wares and struggle to and struggle to hawk their wares vendors find US$200 per year to pay secondary- several thousand dollars into the coffers of of several into the coffers thousand dollars companies, while, nearby, local trekking heeled trekkers come into town outfitted come into town outfitted heeled trekkers and climbing acces- gear with the latest to sories, and drop from several hundred as in Arusha, although they stand out more as in Arusha, although they stand out more Well- smaller. as it is so much in Marangu scene (or the ‘developed’ world in general) scene (or the ‘developed’ world in general) as stark just in Marangu are and local life trekkers, the contrasts between the tourist the contrasts between the tourist trekkers, nearby waterfalls to visit (most with a small to visit (most with a small nearby waterfalls entry charge). falls and small streams – falls and small streams also several are – and there water’ ‘place of and seeing traditional-style houses. The and seeing traditional-style houses. The is laced with water- surrounding area for walks and cultural activities in the sur- to nearby hikes including rounding area, at work local blacksmiths watching caves, Chagga people, and there are possibilities possibilities are Chagga people, and there Rongai routes, and an enjoyable stop in its stop in its and an enjoyable Rongai routes, own right. base for Kili climbs using the Marangu or or base for Kili climbs using the Marangu of hotels, all of which organise treks. While While treks. organise which all of hotels, of budget slightly better get you’ll generally a convenient deals in Moshi, it makes The town has an agreeable highland ambi- The town has an agreeable a good selection and ence, a cool climate dense stands of banana and coffee plants, is plants, is dense banana and coffee stands of Marangu. town of leafy market the lively, % Mt slopes of Nestled on the lower Moshi, amid of Kilimanjaro 40km northeast Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book NORTHERN TANZANIA up fromandopposite Marangu Hotel atthe to learn about Chagga lifeto learnabout Chagga andculture a refreshingly genuine andlow-key place allthebasicsareall, although there, butit’s of theowners’ It’snotluxuriousat house. other vegetation ontheexpansive grounds plantingsofrounded bydense bananaand huts,allsur- Chagga rooms ormodernised homestead bungalow-style isinstandard US$4-6) per student/nonstudentUS$5/10,s/d/trUS$50/60/75;meals 270947; www.yellowpages.co.tz/jungle/index.htm; camping main junction,andthere’s a restaurant. quite spacious.It’sabout 1.5km westof the choice, and therooms–albeitrusticare surrounding gardensmake itanatmospheric wooden flooring,large panedwindowsand Now thehotel iswellpastitsprime,butthe guest inmore recent timeswasJimmyCarter.) ascent of Kilimanjaro. (Anotherprominent overnight before hisfamousfirst starting 100 years old,iswhere Hans Meyer stayed per personUS$5,s/dUS$42/66) Hotel Kibo MIDRANGE showers. warm-ish entrance totown,which hastheadvantage of Parklands Hotel Kilimanjaro Hotel; andthemarginallyCapricorn better the parkgate, shortlybefore to theturn-off person withoutbathroomUS$10) Bismarck HutLodge food onorder. includetheno-frills These with very basicroomssharing facilitiesand also offer camping,andahandfulof places placeslisted underMidrangeseveral that Hotel. Nakara east of themainroad,andsignposted near 190 Banana JungleLodge budget optionsareOtherwise, limited to lives inMarangu. present whohadbeenaround acenturyearlier. familystill Lauwodied in1996,aged125.His at the100thanniversary Lauwowas theonlyperson celebrationofthefirstascent ofKilimanjaro, remainder ofhislife leadingforeign trekkers upthemountain andtrainingnewguides. In1989 lower. Duringhistrek, LauwoearnedjustTsh1 perday. days theroute wasnotdefined, climbingequipmentwasrudimentaryandwageswere much Marealle ItobetheguideforHansMeyer(thefirstWesterner toreach UhuruPeak). Inthose in hishometownofMarangu.Lauwo wasonly18in1889whenheappointed byChief The firstTanzanian Lauwo,whose memoryisstillrevered wasYohaniKinyala toscaleKilimanjaro YOHANI KINYALA LAUWO OTENTNAI • Mrnu TANZANIANORTHERN ••Marangu Following thissuccessfulascent,Lauwo remained inMarangu,where hespent muchofthe Accommodationatthislarge family (

% 027-275 1308; www.kibohotel.com; camping 027-275 1308;www.kibohotel.com;

(camping perpersonUS$5,r

TheKibo,wellover ( %

(r perpersonUS$10) , alongtheroadto 027-275 6565,0754- , just A reliable ifsomewhatblandmidrange es- the first hotel you reach comingfromMoshi, person US$7,s/dUS$25/45) of themainjunction,withspacious,well-ap- surrounded bygardensandforest 3kmwest from US$50/90) campingperpersonUS$12,s/d www.kilimanjaroresort.com; junction. main ages forKilitreks. It’sabout 700m eastof the than theotherplacesonnegotiatingpack- tiny lawn,andisoften somewhatmore flexible and double-bedded roomsclustered arounda hasarow officient Babylon small,cleantwin masquerading behind midrange prices,theef- of thehotel’s fully equipped climbs. Room discountsare available ifyoujoinone around expansive groundsandacampsite. with aclippedBritish ambience,roomsset board US$70/100; .com; campingperpersonwithhotshowersUS$5,s/dhalf further for another 2.5km. the signboard,andthenfollowsignboards to theMamba Lutheranchurch, turnleftat (east) atMarangu’s mainjunction,go2km to theRongaiRoute trailhead.Head right of Marangu inMamba, off theroadleading English-speaking guide. It’sabout 5kmeast asmallworkingfarmandan house, Chagga an authenticreproduction of atraditional ad signposted. and off themainroadtowardsparkgate ble-bedded roomsandarestaurant. It’sjust withreasonabletablishment twinordou- adjoining Chagga Live Museum. a restaurant (lunch/dinner US$12/15)andthe pointed rooms –somewithenormousbeds and arrange culturalwalks.There’s also Kilimanjaro MountainResort Kilimanjaro Hotel Marangu Babylon Lodge Nakara Hotel Nakara This stately old-stylebuildingis This stately s

( % (

Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels (www.babylon lodge.net;campingper % ) This long-standing placeis Thislong-standing 027-275 6571;rperpersonUS$50) 027-275 6594;www.maranguhotel Abudget hotel atheart,

( % 027-275 8950;

NORTHERN TANZANIA 191 Don’t underestimate the weather on the weather on Don’t underestimate For information on park fees – payable for – payable fees For information on park TREKKING MT KILIMANJARO TREKKING MT KILIMANJARO what the time of year, waterproof everything, year, waterproof what the time of especially your sleeping bag, as things rarely possible to dry on the mountain. It’s often sleeping from trekking bags and gear rent – from Route or – for the Marangu operators, Society the Kilimanjaro Guides Cooperative the Western Breach, will be covered by snow. will be covered Breach, the Western beauti- of a streak That said, you can also have ful, sunny days during these times, and should cold at any for rain and bitter come prepared Overall, the best time for climb- year. time of ing the mountain is in the dry season, from December and from late June to October, late short the just after or early March, to February long rains. the rains and before wet, and you’ll cold and very frequently are cold-weather waterproof of need a full range including a good-quality clothing and gear, sleeping worth carrying some bag. It’s also bottles. No matter additional sturdy water main tribes in the area. For some ideas, see the main tribes in the area. ) p189 ( ), Marangu p187 ( sections on Machame ). p194 ( Kilimanjaro and West . p192 – see park area all activities within the Marangu, at Machame: entry gates are There park headquarters, of is also the site which Londorosi and several points. Trekkers other pay their fees should using the Rongai Route Gate. Marangu at Mt Kilimanjaro can be climbed at any time notori- are though year, weather patterns of During ously erratic and difficult to predict. likely it’s more and March/April, November will be slippery, through the forest that paths up to the summit, especially and that routes Kilimanjaro. Conditions on the mountain Conditions on the mountain Kilimanjaro. d the Chagga, the •• Mt Kilimanjaro National Park NORTHERN TANZANIA The Chagga, who are widely spread around the lower slopes of Kilimanjaro, have absorbed absorbed lower slopes of Kilimanjaro, around the have widely spread Chagga, who are The

numerous influences over the past two centuries, including blacksmithing skills the past two centuries, from the neighbour- over numerous influences and also owned cattle, which historically been farmers most Chagga have Traditionally, ing Pares. Chagga lands and raiding their notorious for entering led to conflict with the Maasai, who were 200 years ago – period – dating to about Chagga, their women. The cattle and, according to the to by many Chagga as the Chagga-Maasai war. is referred THE CHAGGA THE CHAGGA with covered form and built in a round beehive windowless, Chagga-style houses are Traditional the house is used Inside, one half of years. few every that needs to be changed thick thatching a cooking with in sleeping areas, area and childrens’ the other side for parents’ for cattle, and still widely houses are traditional-style Unlikewhere in Sukumaland by Lake Victoria, the middle. modern constructions. all more houses these days are used, Chagga A trek up Kili lures hundreds of trekkers trekkers of hundreds up Kili lures A trek At the heart of the park is the 5896m Mt At the heart of

learning about the Maasai an learning about the Maasai exploring the mountain’s lower slopes and a serious (and expensive) undertaking,a serious and (and expensive) only worth doing with the right preparation. excellent options for also plenty of are There each year, in part because it’s possible to year, in part becauseeach it’s possible to walk to the summit without ropes or tech- climb is the Yet, nical climbing experience. Mawenzi Mawenzi peaks. and monkeys, and elands are occasionally occasionally and elands are and monkeys, seen between Kibo and in the saddle area and Mawenzi. The lower rainforest is home to The lower rainforest and Mawenzi. many animals, including buffaloes, leopards alpine meadows, and finally across a barren alpine meadows, and finally across a barren Kibo lunar landscape to the twin summits of world, rising from cultivated farmlands on world, rising from cultivated to the lower levels, through lush rainforest also one of the highest volcanoesalso one of and among the highest mountains freestanding in the Kilimanjaro , Africa’s highest peak and one Kilimanjaro the continent’s magnificent sights. It’s of and to take advantage of the chance to climb the chance of advantage and to take Africa. of to the top wildlife is there. Rather, it’s to gaze in awe at is there. wildlife a mountain on the equator capped with snow, most visited parks. Unlike the other northern parks. Unlike most visited – although parks, this isn’t for the wildlife Since its official opening in 1977, Kilimanjaro Since its official Tanzania’s has become one of National Park MT KILIMANJARO NATIONAL PARK NATIONAL PARK MT KILIMANJARO gate (Tsh500), 5km further. For the Holili bor- 5km further. (Tsh500), gate junction. Himo at der, you’ll need to change they’ll drop you at the main junction from they’ll drop you at the sporadic pick-ups to the park are there where Getting There & Away Getting There & Away Minibuses run throughout the day between In Marangu (Tsh1000). and Moshi Marangu lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN TANZANIA the other routes, transport costscan besig- are for much furtherfromMoshithanthose latter routes,for these particularlyRongai, the Shira Plateau Route. As points thestarting trekand aboutUS$1100 foraseven-day on ataboutUS$750onthe RongaiRoute, start in. Formore information,see p194 . Prices should have daybuilt anextraacclimatisation only bedonebyexperiencedtrekkers, and the top.Don’tfallforthis–route should and comparatively inexpensive waytoreach priceasMarangu,same andbilledasaquick often soldbybudget operators foraboutthe ataboutUS$1000.TheUmbweRoute is start trips ontheMarangu andMachame routes fortheascent.Better-qualitynight six-day ommended tobudget atleastoneadditional rec- it’shighly US$900 toUS$1000,although days ontheMachame Route ataround start fees, andno-frills budget treks of sixtoseven ataboutUS$850,includingpark Route start five-day/four-night treks uptheMarangu tor listingsandsometipssee p54 . No-frills atourcompany.Foropera- things isthrough Kili climbs,theonlyrealistic waytoorganise resident andwell-versed inthelogisticsof licenced guide. Unless youare aTanzania Kilimanjaro canonlybeclimbedwitha Costs prices athutsonthe Marangu Route. andsodasathigh park. Youcanbuybeer tinned items, there are noshops insidethe alimited rangeselling of chocolate bars and to bring your own. availability can’tbecounted on,andit’sbest especially atthebudget qualityand level, justinsideMarangustand Gate. However, 192 Apart fromasmallshop atMarangu Gate the sun’–youshouldn’twaitlongtobookyourtrek. classic asErnestHemingwaydescribeditinhisthing isthatifyouwanttoseethetopofKilimanjaro national symbolswillmeanforthecountry’stouristindustry.Fornow,perhapsonlycertain a sure remedy. Meanwhile,speculationisrife aboutwhatthedisappearanceofoneTanzania’s spreading hugewhite sheetsover theremaining icefields,althoughno onehasyetcomeupwith solar raysgettingthroughtotheiceandfaster evaporation.) (Fewer trees meansthere islessmoisture intheair,whichturnmeanslessprecipitation, more rate. are Manyfactors blamed,oneofwhichislossforest cover onthemountain’slowerslopes. which meansthattheywillhave disappeared completely by2020ifthingscontinueatthepresent Since 1912,whentheywere firstmeasured, glaciershaveKilimanjaro’s lostover 80%oftheirice, THE (MELTING) SNOWSOFKILIMANJARO OTENTNAI • Tekn tKlmnao TANZANIANORTHERN MtKilimanjaro ••Trekking Various schemeshave disappearanceoftheglaciers,including beendreamed uptohaltfurther The SnowsofKilimanjaro –‘wideasalltheworld,great, high,andunbelievablywhite in firewood on the mountain.) the greater (It’snotpermitted weight. touse ample, requires additional porters of because costs more. Bringingastove andfuel,forex- responsiblean environmentally trek usually bookings andparkfees. Alsoremember that guides, few comfortsandproblems withhut you riskhaving inadequate meals,mediocre areallyto thetop).Ifyouchoose cheap trip yourchances(as wellastomaximise of getting extras tomake theexperiencemore enjoyable tents, decenttogoodcuisineandvariousother Most of thebetter companiesprovide dining ofand transporttofromthestart thetrek. covers food,tents (ifrequired), guides,porters Machame-route climb).Therest of themoney more forlonger treks (US$750foraseven-day fees forafive-day Marangu Route climb,and the trekking companies. fees (butnottips)are handleddirectly by making anybookings. Guideandporter toconfirmthisbeforetor, butyou’llneed paid onyourbehalf bythetrekking opera- are generally includedinpricequotes, and person onall routes. pernight Park fees costsUS$50per Camping the mountain. rescue fee perperson pertripfortreks on per person and there pernight, is aUS$20 cheques. Huts(Marangu Route) costUS$50 be paidinUSdollars, cashor travellers adult/child aged five to15years, andmust not per24-hourperiod–are US$60/10per Park entryfees –calculated perday,and PR FEES PARK ber thatatleastUS$525of topark thisgoes in the price. nificant, soclarifywhethertheyare included Whatever youpayfor your trek, remem- lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN TANZANIA 193 Map & Guide to Map by Mark Savage. Savage. by Mark by Andrew Wielochowski and Wielochowski by Andrew New Map of the Kilimanjaro National National Kilimanjaro the of New Map has useful gradient profiles, though has useful you’ll gradient profiles, The guides and porters provided by some by provided and porters The guides Porters will carry bags weighing will carry to 15kg up Porters day, to avoid going all the way to the top. going all the way to the top. day, to avoid is by this scenarios like The best way to avoid familiarising company, going with a reputable and – the route, yourself of with all aspects should problems arise but firm polite – being your guide. with Maps Topographical maps include Kilimanjaro & Guide Map Kilimanjaro MaCo’s Park need to complement it with a topographical serious trekking. map for about wildlife, flowers or other features on other features or flowers wildlife, about the mountain. clothing, their own food and (not including your bag), to the outside of they strap which you will be weighedand your bags before set off. a lot to be outfits leave trekking the cheaper of you might a hardy traveller If you’re desired. substandard basic meals and not worry about concerned about but you might be more tents, guides or dishonest porters. incompetent guides who leave about heard stories We’ve on the summit late the last hut deliberately

is at the the is at •• Trekking Mt Kilimanjaro NORTHERN TANZANIA

It’s also worth remembering that it is not essential to reach Uhuru Peak, and you haven’t haven’t and you Uhuru Peak, It’s also worth that it is not essential to reach remembering 027-275 6602/5; [email protected])027-275 All guides must be registered with the na- with the All guides must be registered

Kilimanjaro Headquarters Park National ‘failed’ if you don’t. If time (or money) is limited, you’d be far better off choosing other treks – – off choosing other treks you’d be far better ‘failed’ if you don’t. If time (or money) is limited, for the price of a single Kili climb. If you mountain areas different you could experience several of just pushing on for the summit, consider trekking up to want to sample Kili, instead really the to appreciate Barranco Wall or the Shira Plateau such as the Saddle, the top of the an area descending. splendour and magnificence of the mountain before Whatever route you choose, remember that ascending Kilimanjaro undertaking. is a serious you choose, remember route Whatever don’t without major difficulty, many more Uhuru Peak reach of trekkers While many hundreds year a And, every altitude sickness. from make it because they ascend too quickly and suffer footwear and clothing, and with appropriate mountain. Come prepared die on the trekkers few the top, seriously in reaching interested most importantly, If you’re allow yourself enough time. which route consider adding at least one extra no matter day onto the ‘standard’ climb itinerary, per extra Although paying an additional US$150 to US$250 day may seem a lot when you do. gone on if you’ve insignificant savings later planning your trip, it will appear as relatively you’re to the expense and effort to start and then need to come down without having reached a trek badly about insisting on an extra day with the trekking companies: standard the top. Don’t feel 3000m – which above sleeping altitude by only 300m per day once medical advice is to increase 3000m on the standard Kiliis about one-third climb routes of the daily altitude gains above metres hundred is several all: Uhuru Peak on it Another perspective by most operators. offered takeat least two often in the Nepal Himalaya, Base Camp trekkers which higher than Everest from Kathmandu.weeks to reach SERIOUS BUSINESS SERIOUS BUSINESS % that’s it. Only the best guides, working for you to tell companies, will be able reputable your guide’s permit is up to date. On Kili, your guide’s permit is up to date. you the way and is to show the guide’s job tional park authorities. If in doubt, check that tional park authorities. If in doubt, check generally used, but one or two porters per used,generally but one or two porters other routes. essential on all are trekker king company. You can carry your own gear carry your own gear king company. You can are although porters Route, on the Marangu Guides & Porters Guides & Porters (for the guide), and at least one porter Guides, by your trek- provided and are obligatory are US$15 each for the porters. Plan on more for Plan on more for the porters. US$15 each and porters or if the guide routes, the longer good. particularly been have For the Marangu Route, tips are commonly tips are Route, For the Marangu the guide, and from from US$40 to US$60 for of the total amount you’ve paid for the trek, paid for the trek, the total amount you’ve of guides and porters. divided up among the pend on tips as their major source of income. income. source of as their major pend on tips 10% about guideline, plan on tipping a As Most guides and porters receive only minimal only minimal receive and porters Most guides and de- companies from the trekking wages park gate (open 8am-6pm) in Marangu. 8am-6pm) (open park gate TIPPING ( lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN TANZANIA Route, but the same considerations outlined Route, butthesame expensive) Machame thanthestandard This version isadayshorter (andthusless Route andsummitsviathe Western Breach. ofnear thetopto finalsection theUmbwe Route forthefirst few stages, butthen switches Machame Route, which ascendstheMachame a‘short’tors version whotrytosell of the extra night for acclimatisation. operator. Reliableoperators willsuggest an equipped, andtravelling withareputable route ifyou are experiencedandproperly line isthatyoushouldonlyconsiderthis and crowdingonotherroutes. Thebottom ofcause competitionforbusiness intense has onlygainedinpopularityrecently be- ered atechnical route. mountaineering It recently, theWestern Breach wasconsid- indication of isthat untilfairly itsseriousness areclimatisation forcedtoturnback.An trekkers whoattempt itwithoutproperac- orextremelyit impassable dangerous. Many often covered iniceorsnow,which makes very uptheWestern steep Breach section is theroute isdirect,ness. Although thetop, toattractbusi- Umbwe Route inaneffort priced five-day four-night optionsonthe trekking companiesnowpush attractively altitude tooquickly.Unfortunately, some able ifyoucanresist togain thetemptation more direct waytothesummit–very enjoy- The ofmit viathetopsection theMwekaRoute. southern slopesbefore approaching thesum- popular trekkers tents. Theincreasingly mustuse areas than theMarangu Route, although awiderrangeand passthrough of scenic (which costs more, buthelpsacclimatisation) stages of thisandother main routes. Africa lowlands. LonelyPlanet’s flown intoTanzania orjustarrived fromthe especiallyifyou’vehelp acclimatisation, just recommended ishighly one extranight to four-night return package, atleast although on thisroute istypicallysoldasafive-day, is theeasiestandmostpopular. Atrek the to thesummit.Ofthese, on thelowerslopesbutonlythree continue There are atleast10trekking routes thatbegin Trekking Routes 194 including a spectacular daycontouringtheincluding aspectacular Another thingtowatch outforisopera- Other routes onKiliusuallytake sixdays Umbwe Route OTENTNAI • Ws iiajr TANZANIANORTHERN ••WestKilimanjaro has detailed descriptionof hasdetailed thestandard Machame Route Machame ismuch steeper, witha hasagradualascent, Trekking inEast Marangu Route Marangu

routes descend viatheMarangu Route or WEST KILIMANJARO ibility for last-minute arrangements. for bookingaclimbtoincrease, withlessflex- enforced, expecttheadvancetimenecessary mum hutcapacities.Ifandwhenthislimitis of because maxi- Route, which isself-limiting not beingenforced,exceptontheMarangu onKilimanjaro.day isineffect Itiscurrently Route. Mweka Some Marangu treks alsodescendonthe the Hut. Shira road head),orifyoutake anextradayat than drivingallthewaytoShira Track trekkingstart fromLondorosiGate (rather the others, ifyou butgoodforacclimatisation Londorosi Route) issomewhatlonger than attractive in five days,butit’sbetter doneinsix.The side of It’spossibletodothis themountain. the Kenyan upthenorthern borderandgoes creasingly popularinrecent years, near starts equipped. properly if youare and experienced,acclimatised you should onlyconsider thiscombination ity of arranging visitstoMaasai bomas, walks Kilimanjaro. Otherdrawsinclude thepossibil- spotted silhouetted againstthebackdrop of Mt number of large tuskers whoare frequently year-round. Amongthemisan unusuallyhigh correspondingly decreased, andcanbeseen a localresource andpoaching inthearea has as wildlife hasincreasingly becomeviewed as have regained confidenceover the past decade, Mt KilimanjaroNationalPark. Theelephants with an elephantcorridorlinkingAmboseli along itselephants,lyingasitdoes notably, pressive wildlife populations,including,most untouched savannah bushlandsanditsim- Kilimanjaro isof interest foritsrelatively wildlife areas inthecountry.Forvisitors, West just ahandfulof such community-managed the local villages were granted permissiontoform gained attention inrecent timeswheneight National Park andaroundtoLoitokitok– village uptotheKenyan border andAmboseli the Maasai landsrunningnorthof SanyaJuu The WestKilimanjaroarea –encompassing in thepreceding paragraphapplyhere, and Officially alimitofOfficially 60climbers perroute per Trekkers ontheMachame andUmbwe The Enduimet Wildlife Management Area Enduimet WildlifeManagement Mweka Route Mweka Rongai Route Shira Plateau Route Shira Plateau , which is for descentonly. , which has alsobecomein- (alsocalledthe lonelyplanet.com , oneof NORTHERN TANZANIA 195 24hr) h 9.30am- 7.30am- h h 7.30am-3.30pm h 027-250 9974/5; 027-50 8020; www % % ( 027-250 9800, 0713- puts out a good map of puts out a good map of % (AAR; (Simeon Rd; ( (Boma Rd; per hr Tsh1000; (Boma Rd; per hr Tsh1000; 027-250 4053; Jacaranda St) Reasonably (India St; per hr Tsh1500; (India St; per hr Tsh1500; % (cnr Sokoine & Goliondoi Rds) ATM (Visa, (cnr Sokoine & Goliondoi Rds) ATM ( (Sokoine Rd; per hr Tsh1000; (Sokoine Rd; per hr Tsh1000; (Sopa Lodges Bldg, Serengeti Rd) ATM (Visa (Sopa Lodges Bldg, Serengeti and Rd) ATM (www.gtmaps.com)

8.45am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) Well-stocked MAPS MAPS .aarhealth.com; Plot 54, Haile Selassie Rd) Off Old Moshi 24 hours. Rd; lab tests and a doctor call on well-stocked, including various Africa titles. well-stocked, including various Africa MasterCard). 6.30pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-2pm Sun) 6.30pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-2pm pharmacy, west of NBC bank. pharmacy, west of 510590; [email protected]; Sokoine Rd; 510590; [email protected]; h Barclays Exim Bank and Maestro). MasterCard, Cirrus Mon-Fri) Near the Makongoro Rd junction; visa extensions you wait. usually processed while are MEDICAL SERVICES & EMERGENCIES Accident Air Rescue Moona’s Pharmacy Selian Lutheran Hospital MONEY at located bureaus In addition to the forex around hotels and other large Impala Hotel town (most open on Sundays and until late bu- many forex are on weekdays), there northern end of around the clustered reaus St, near the Boma Rd, and along Joel Maeda Clock Tower. Information Information BOOKSHOPS Bookmark OFFICE IMMIGRATION Immigration office INTERNET ACCESS Cybernet Café New Safari Hotel Patisserie fari companies, airline offices, craft shops and craft shops offices, airline fari companies, Centre Conference International the Arusha to 15- and about a 10- (AICC). centre, In the the bus stand, walk from minute Clock is the – the two main roads where Tower roundabout Rd to to the west and Old Moshi Sokoine Rd east – meet. the MaCo Sat) 5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm http://selianlh.habari.co.tz) About 12km northhttp://selianlh.habari.co.tz) of town in main road. Ngaramtoni and signposted 3km off the Arusha, widely available around town. There around town. There Arusha, widely available photocopied town maps at the small, free are information centre. tourist

, at , just out- Kambi ya Tembo

(www.hemingways-camp , an intimate place place , an intimate (www.ndarakwai.com)

•• Arusha NORTHERN TANZANIA Hemingway’s Camp CampHemingway’s

027 / pop 300,000 Hoopoe a long-standing Safaris has part-

Present-day Arusha traces its roots to to traces its roots Arusha Present-day Arusha is fringed by coffee, wheat and wheat and by coffee, Arusha is fringed Other possible bases include

Arusha is divided by the small Naura River Arusha is divided by the small Naura River the bus stations, the valley. To the west are To the east hotels. and many budget market the post of- hotels, the upmarket most of are buildings, sa- fice, immigration, government Orientation Orientation collaboration – and the site of the Rwanda of collaboration – and the site genocide tribunal. defunct original East African Community. Today it is the seat the new East African of at regional attempt Community – a revived the German In 1967 boma was constructed. the now of Arusha became headquarters the waning days of the 19th century, when the waning days of Valley escarpment and the volcanoes of the escarpment and the volcanoes of Valley Crater Highlands. farmland begin some of East Africa’s most farmland begin some of by the Rift alluring landscapes, dominated central market, and who have occupied this and who have central market, since about the 18th century. Beyondarea the maize estates tended by the Arusha and Meru Arusha and Meru by the tended maize estates people, whom you may see in and around the Moshi and the trailhead towns, it’s also the Moshi and the trailhead towns, it’s also the Kilimanjaro treks. main base for organising capital of Tanzania and a major tourism cen- and a major Tanzania capital of Although further from Kilimanjaro than tre. other northern parks. As such, it is the safari such, other northern parks. As about 1300m altitude, and enjoys a cool, tem- about 1300m altitude, and Arusha throughout climate the year. perate and the to the Serengeti is also the gateway Tanzania’s most developed and fastest-growing most developed and fastest-growing Tanzania’s at Mt Meru foot of towns. It sprawls near the ARUSHA ARUSHA % of Arusha is one and green, Cool, lush village camp sites. village Ndarakwai Ranch side the conservation plus various small area, (www.africawilderness.com; s/d full board US$450/636) with just seven and a superb wilderness tents walks wildlife for the chance ambience, plus activities. cultural and Maasai and drives nership with the local Maasai, and runs the and runs Maasai, with the local nership excellent US$540/680) .com; s/d full board routes for mountain treks. for routes and other cultural activities. West Kilimanjaro Kilimanjaro activities. West cultural and other to the western/Lemosho easy access also offers lonelyplanet.com Sinya on the Kenyan border, and the 12-tent border, and the 12-tent Sinya on the Kenyan Ὀ ὈὈὈ

NORTHERN TANZANIA 196 (Closed) Station Train 4 6 1 3 2 5 ARUSHA Nairobi (260km) Namanga (100km); Ngaramtoni (12km); To SelianLutheranHospital(12km); OTENTNAI • Auh TANZANIANORTHERN ••Arusha Uhuru Monument...... Sunny Safaris...... Roy Safaris...... Nature Beauties...... Natural HistoryMuseum&Boma... Market...... Hoopoe Safaris...... Clock Tower...... Arusha DeclarationMuseum...... AICC Building...... TTCL...... TTB TouristInformationCentre.. Standard CharteredBank...... Stanbic Bank...... Rickshaw Travels...... Police Station...... NCAA InformationOffice...... NBC Bank...... Moona's Pharmacy...... Meru BranchPostOffice...... (see29) Main PostOffice...... Internet Café...... (see66) Internet Café...... (see50) Immigration Office...... Forex Bureaus...... Forex Bureaus...... Exim Bank...... Cybernet Cafe...... Coastal Aviation...... (see77) Bookmark...... Barclays Bank...... Accident AirRescue...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Dodoma (470km);NorthernParks Arusha Airport(8km);CulturalHeritage(12km); Regional Air(4km);Tanapa(5km); Scandinavian Buses(1km);Mtei Kilombero BusStand(1km); Summit Centre&ZanAir(1km) To Shoprite,TFACentre, 29 Wachagga St A

14 Somali Rd Somali

Sokoine Rd Sokoine Wapare St 53

Lindi St Rd Makongoro 79 27 84

Makua St 77 Colonel Middleton Rd Middleton Colonel

Kituoni63 Rd 35 54

Zaramo37

St Stadium 43

36 Stadium Rd Stadium

39 Bondeni St

57 Rd Levolosi Ethiopia Rd Ethiopia Mosque 49 65 48 62 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 St 23 30 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

42 Kikuyu St 45 Mosque B3 A2 D4 E4 C3 B3 F2 F3 B2 C2 F3 F3 E3 C3 A3 C3 F3 B3 B3 F3 F2 E3 F2 E3 F3 B3 D4 D3 Mosque 3

Azimo55 St 20 Dragon Pearl...... Dolly's Patisserie...... Clocktower Supermarket...... Big Bite...... Arusha NaazHotel...... (see 32) Amar Cuisine...... William's Inn...... Vision Campsite...... Outpost Lodge...... New SafariHotel...... Monjes Guesthouse...... Monjes Guesthouse...... Lutheran Centre...... L'Oasis Lodge&Restaurant...... Levolosi GuestHouse...... Le Jacaranda...... Kitunda Guesthouse...... Kilimanjaro VillaGuestHouse..... Kibo PalaceHotel...... Impala Hotel...... Hotel Pallsons...... Hotel FortdeMoines...... Hotel Aquiline...... Hotel 7-11...... Golden Rose...... Everest Inn...... Centre HouseHostel...... Arushu CentreInn...... (see38) Arusha NaazHotel...... Arusha Hotel...... Arusha CrownHotel...... Arusha Backpackers...... EATING SLEEPING Jacaranda St

Swahili St 38 28 B

Pangani St Arusha-Moshi Rd Arusha-Moshi Seth Benjamin Rd 83 72 To Ilkidin'ga 10 (7km) 11 13 15 School Rd

See Enlargement Naura Goliond River 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 o i E4 B3 F3 B3 A3 A2 F2 D4 F2 B2 F3 E1 B2 D4 B2 B3 D4 D4 A3 B3 A3 A3 A3 D4 D3 E3 F3 B3 A3 B2 River C Via Via...... (see 24) Greek Club...... Crystal Club...... Colobus Club...... Via Via...... (see24) Steers...... Spices &Herbs...... Sazan...... Pepe's...... Patisserie...... Old RockRestaurant...... Mirapot...... McMoody's...... Lounge...... (see 46) Khan's Barbecue...... Jambo CoffeeHouse...... Impala Hotel...... (see40) Geekay's Take-Away...... Flame Tree...... Everest Inn...... (see34) DRINKING

Simeon 24 Rd Engira Rd 19 Church Anglican 33

51 Themi 68 Kanisa Rd Moivaro CoffeePlantation(6km); Serengeti Rd River Arusha NationalPark(35km); 67 41 Grounds ὈὈ ὈὈ Sports Kilimanjaro International

lonelyplanet.com

To OnseaHouse(5km);

Old Moshi Rd Moshi Old 73 72 71 70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 Rd Kaunda 34 Airport (KIA;50km); 26 D 59 B3 D4 B3 E5 F3 E4 D4 D3 E3 F3 A3 B3 F3 F3 D3 Kigongoni (8km); Tengeru (10km); 2 Moshi (80km) 73

Njiro Hill Rd Haile Selassie Rd 1 44 40 NORTHERN TANZANIA 197 (Tanapa; 8am-1pm & h (Sokoine Rd) 027-254 4625; www 027-250 6655; www.rickshawtz 027-250 0087; arusha@coastal (Goliondoi Rd) ATM (Visa). (Goliondoi Rd) ATM % ( % 8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-8pm Sun & 8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-8pm Sun % ( (Boma Rd) ( h (Sokoine Rd) ATM (Visa, MasterCard, (Sokoine Rd) ATM Cirrus 027-250 3842/3; [email protected]; Boma 027-250 3842/3; [email protected]; % ( 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pm Sat) Just up from (Boma Rd; (Sokoine Rd) ATM (Visa); travellers also changes Rd) ATM (Sokoine 027-250 3471/4082/8216; www.tanzaniaparks.com; 027-250 3471/4082/8216; www.tanzaniaparks.com; h and Maestro). .cc; Boma Rd) Northern and southern circuit itineraries, charters. Zanzibar and flight Dodoma road) About 5km west of town. Dodoma road) About 5km west for street place in Tanzania Arusha is the worst on the who prey touts and slick tour operators by offer- travellers newly arrived gullibility of at ridiculously low ing them safaris and treks prices. Their main haunts include Boma Rd and Goliondoi Rd, at the central bus station % AGENCIES TRAVEL safari and trek- Arusha-based For listings of can also which – most of king operators in the country – itineraries elsewhere arrange see p44 . Coastal Aviation Rickshaw Travels Dangers & Annoyances TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION board at the Tourist bulletin The travellers’ Information Centre is a good spot to find safari mates. Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority (NCAA) Information Office Headquarters National Parks Tanzania Tourist Board (TTB)Tanzania Tourist Information Centre NBC Stanbic Bank Standard Chartered POST Main post office Meru office branch post TELEPHONE TTCL .com; Sokoine Rd) Domestic and international flight bookings. public holidays) International (from Tsh1000 per minute) Tsh1000 public holidays) International (from card phones. and domestic calls; .ngorongoro-crater-africa.org; Boma Rd; Rd; the post office and the Clock Tower roundabout, with helpful staff, information on Arusha, the nearby parks and other attractions, and booking help for Cultural Tourism Also has a ‘blacklist’ of tour operators and a Program tours. tour companies. list of registered cheques. 2-5pm Mon-Fri, Booklets on Ngorongoro 8am-1pm Sat) Conservation Area. map of the Ngorongoro and a relief 5 2 3 1 6 4 52 400 m Hotel 6

Equator

0.2 miles Boma Rd Boma 50 80 47 18 86 F To Masai Camp &

82 Simeon Rd Simeon Tropical Trails (1km);

78 Old Moshi Rd India St India 61 200 m Karama Lodge (1.5km); School of St Jude (5km) 8 17 Not Depicted 12 9 87 21 60 Some Minor Roads F3 E3 F3 F3 A2 F2 E2 F2 B3 A1 E2 F2 F3 A3 74 22 31 70 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 74 75 76 4 64 56

7 School Rd School 66 0 0

Rd Joel 71 Maeda St

•• Arusha NORTHERN TANZANIA 46 Rd Goliondoi 32 75 5

E Sokoine Rd Sokoine 0 0 0.1 miles Catholic Church Makongoro 16 Church Lutheran 58 69 85 25 81 Golf

Kijenge Course Royal Coach Buses & Bamprass Petrol Station...... Taxi Stand...... Taxi Stand...... Taxi Stand...... Coastal Aviation...... Dar Express Buses...... Ethiopian Airlines...... (see 80) KLM...... Mt Meru Hotel...... Precision Air...... Riverside Shuttle...... Craft Shop...... Air Excel...... (see 5) Air Tanzania...... Arusha Naaz Rent-a-Car...... (see 32) Central Bus Station & Taxi Stand... Aminata Boutque...... (see 32) Craft Dealers...... TRANSPORT SHOPPING Moshi Rd Moshi

lonelyplanet.com

ὈὈ

Ὀ ὈὈ Ὀ NORTHERN TANZANIA over thebridge onOldMoshiRdnearthe not safe towalkafter dusk,especially the surrounding countryside. the many protection againstthornsin the bush,and tire-tread wornbymany Maasai sandals as ful the area. Otherdiversions includethe colour- old photos,andisworthastopifyou are in boma,hasafewthe oldGerman fossilsand h 7540; www.museum.or.tz; BomaRd;adult/studentUS$5/2; smaller colonial Tanzanian history,whiletheeven ment hasaninteresting displayonpost- US$5/2; 250 7800;www.museum.or.tz; Rd;adult/student Makongoro The small Sights &Activities Tower. Clock Safaris chapter ( p45 ). Safari Scams&Schemes boxed texts inthe theChoosinganOperatorand Rd. Alsosee onBoma TouristInformationCentre the TTB travellers andcheck thecurrent ‘blacklist’at registered; get recommendations fromother tour companyyousignupwithisproperly and western endsof town.Ensure thatany and nearthebudget hotels atthenorthern 198 At night, take a taxi ifyougoout.It’s take ataxi At night, certain studentsreally doqualifyas‘poor’.certain relationship Whenyou’re withtheproject. tomake there askhowtheycheckanddouble-check preciated, US$10toUS$20issuggested, butlotsofvisitorsare inspired toformalongerterm school website –www.schoolofstjude.co.tz –formore coursedonationsare information.Of ap- first –[email protected] anappointment.Seethe‘Visit –tomake Us’pageofthe evenschool’s impact more effectively. that StJudeparents andthefiercecompetitiontogetaplaceunderline have intheirkids exam scores are onlybythemostexpensive outranked Tanzanian private schools. The hugepride It’shardtoargue withtheresults: kids? todirt-poor StJudestudents’ education opportunity population willhave reached more toprovide than2000.HasGemma’splanworked, aterrific in 2008andwhenthosefirststudentsreach highschoolgraduationagein2014the school hadexpandedto850children, 60teachers and200staff. Asecondprimaryschoolopens more you’re thantworoomsorwithelectricity ineligible. the bestresults getaplace. Secondyou’ve ifyoucomefromahomewith gottobevery poor: gettoeven sittheentranceexamandonly kids got tobeextremely bright:onlythesmartest Sisia’s pioneeringestablishmentyouhave tomeettwovery different requirements. First you’ve been achieved inhisnameaschooljustoutsideArusha. Toscore aplaceinAustralian Gemma He’s thepatronsaintofhopelesscases,butStJudewoulddefinitely besmilingatwhathas COMMUNITY TOURISMSPOTLIGHT:COMMUNITY SCHOOL OFSTJUDE 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-5.30pmSat&Sun) 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, market OTENTNAI • Auh TANZANIANORTHERN ••Arusha The schoolwelcomesvisitorsMondaytoFridayduringterm time,butyouwillneedtoemail andoneteacher. offin2002withahandfulofkids The SchoolofStJudekicked By2007the h Natural History Museum Natural History 9am-5.30pm) , which isagoodplaceto buy the Cultural Tourism Programs Tourism Cultural Arusha DeclarationMuseum neartheUhuru monu-

( ( p204 ) in %

( % 027-250 , in 027- ceedings ofceedings the yu passport. your Thursday; admission isfree butyou’llneed Simeon Rd,which take placeMondayto forRwanda Tribunal sion to snake parkUS$10) sion tosnake camping perpersonincladmis- .meseranisnakepark.com; Tropical Trails ( p54 ). Rd (Tsh2500 for andalsothebase in a taxi), It’s 3kmsoutheastof OldMoshi townoff hired, andthere are afew no-frills rooms. Tents bagsare andsleeping available tobe ers andothermealsahappening bar. arestaurant withpizzas,burg- satellite TV, expansive grounds,hotshowers, pooltables, with overlanders andonthenoisyside,with room US$10; person withoutbathroomUS$7,rperbath- campingperpersonUS$5,bandas [email protected]; Hotel. Equator water buckets canbearranged. It’snextto place topitch atent inthetowncentre. Hot Small, shaded andvery basic,thisistheonly Campsite Vision Camping BUDGET Sleeping It’s still possible to observe thepro- It’s stillpossibletoobserve Meserani Snake Park Snake Meserani Masai Camp Masai i ) Along-timefavourite, popular

(off BomaRd;campingperpersonTsh3000) (

% Tony Wheeler Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 027-250 0358,0754-829514;masai at the AICC buildingon attheAICC UN International Criminal Criminal UN International Thisoverlander-ori-

( % 027-253 8282;www

NORTHERN TANZANIA

199 If the If the Newish, This low- 027-250 8109; % ( This old-timer has 027-250 4474; www.arusha 027-250 7406, 027-254 8523; 027-250 0421; s/d US$20/25) % % 027-50 8856/7; [email protected]; 027-50 8856/7; [email protected];

( ( 027-254 8483; hotel_pallsons@ % (

% % (

027-250 1261; s/d/tw US$25/30/35) (

% (

The incongruously named Fort de The incongruously named Arusha Centre Inn Arusha Backpackers Lutheran Centre Hotel 7-11 Hotel Pallsons Kilimanjaro Villa Guest House Hotel Fort de Moines leafy and overall quieter eastern part of town. part of eastern quieter leafy and overall rooms at L’Oasis Lodge also budget are There listings). Midrange (see Boma Rd; s/d without bathroom Tsh8000/15,000) doesn’t put you drab, institutional atmosphere price, a restaurant and a location within easy and a location within price, a restaurant bus stand. the walking distance of station the central bus (look opposite Directly building), with multistorey for the white decent value clean, albeit noisy rooms that are outside is chaotic for the doubles. The street enough that it’s only worth considering if you morning departure. an early have yahoo.com; Market St; s/d US$30/37) spacious faded but functional and relatively rooms in a noisy, central location opposite the market. – Clock Tower Guesthouses & Hotels Beyond Roundabout & and in the green the following places are All of Azimo St; s/d without bathroom Tsh7000/10,000) place is well past its prime, with tatty but key in the water acceptable rooms and warm-ish small side street bathrooms. It’s on a shared the bus stand. There’s blocks east of a few no food. s/d US$20/25) in up from the others steps Moines is a few this listing in both price and standard, with bland straightforward rooms with fans but looking for no nets. It’s good value if you’re prices. budget at a ‘proper’ hotel Fort de Moines, and nicer, Next door to Hotel good value for the rooms that are with spotless Guesthouses & Hotels – Market Area Area – Market & Hotels Guesthouses mar- the busy central all in These are places town, margin- part of in the western area ket ally closer the bus stand to the Colonel than few a and generally hotels, area Middleton Rd and quality. price up in both steps clean rooms with cheap, popular, but already facilities. However, most of and clean shared windows, and interior only the doubles have no windows at all. Several have rooms a few quad. It’s also a two-bunk fans. There’s have in Moshi. by Kindoroko Hotel managed backpackers.co.tz; Sokoine Rd; s/d/q US$6/12/20) backpackers.co.tz; This •• Arusha NORTHERN TANZANIA (s/d without bathroom (s/d without bathroom

(d Tsh12,000, s without bath- (d Tsh12,000, (d Tsh12,000, s/d without bath- s/d without (d Tsh12,000,

027-250 7959; Middleton Rd; s/d 027-250 3578; s/d US$20/25) Another decent, reliable Another decent, reliable % % ( (

Functional twin and double- This friendly establishment is This friendly establishment is Diagonally opposite the main the main Diagonally opposite Kitundu Guesthouse Golden Rose William’s Inn Monjes Guesthouse Levolosi House Guest near the Dar Express bus office. near the Dar Express bedded rooms – all with bathroom and hot- location – in a convenient showers water Tsh25,000/35,000) of Colonel Middleton Rd from the previous Middleton Rd from the previous Colonel of somewhat quieter. listings, and nexe diagonally opposite. nexe on ambience, but the place is short reliable bed) are one large rooms (the doubles have on the other side It’s clean and good value. room Tsh5000/10,000) with clean but basic rooms, includ- choice, with bathroom. ing a few enclosed cement courtyard. enclosed Monjes Guesthouse building, with undistinguished although rooms around an adequate for smooth talkers wanting to sell wanting to you sa-for smooth talkers other you to a hotel faris or trying to steer out. picked than the one you’ve cent value, others let flycatchers onto their onto their let flycatchers cent value, others out Watch be avoided. and should premises and prices are among the lowest in town. among the lowest in town. and prices are de- the accommodations are While some of isn’t great, but many travellers stay here be- stay here but many travellers isn’t great, closecause to the bus stand, it’s reasonably shared bathrooms (hot water available on on available bathrooms (hot water shared food. The area and most without request), rooms – most twin-bedded with nets and with nets and rooms – most twin-bedded Middleton Rd and north of the stadium (a stadium the (a of Middleton Rd and north walk from the bus station) is 10-minute no-frills places offering cheap of a clutch In the small dusty streets just east of Colonel just east of In the small dusty streets Guesthouses & Hotels – Colonel – Colonel Guesthouses & Hotels Area Middleton Road museum. It’s 25km west of Arusha, just off just off Arusha, museum. 25km west of It’s road. Dodoma the organised (per person US$5), and there’s and there’s US$5), (per person organised cultural Maasai park and a small a snake vehicle repair shop and emergency rooms rooms emergency and shop repair vehicle rides walks and camel ill. Short if you’re can be area Maasai in the surrounding ented place has good facilities, including including facilities, has good place ented a (meals US$6) a restaurant hot showers, Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book one of the better ones of the bunch, with with the bunch, ones of the better one of It’s rooms with hot water. clean, no-frills split between a main building and an an- room Tsh9000) Tsh4000/5000) NORTHERN TANZANIA mosphere isuninspiring,butthelocation US$45/58/75; tanzania.com; Rd;6-beddmUS$25,s/d/tr Serengeti crownhotel.com; cnr Makongoro Rd&Mosque St;s/dcrownhotel.com; cnrMakongoro Moshi Rdattheeastern end of town. a quietsidestreet about100mnorthof Old and arestaurant (mealsfrom Tsh5000). It’s on rooms inalarge in pretty set gardens, house s/d/tr US$40/45/65) Le Jacaranda MIDRANGE office. rental lunch (dailyexceptSunday)andacar buffet is arestaurant withinexpensive breakfasts, a vary,socheckstandards outafew. Downstairs fanandhotwater.less, allwithTV, Sizeand convenient andtheroomsare decentandspot- naaz.net; SokoineRd;s/d/trUS$30/45/60; along Old Moshi Rd. the ClockTowerroundabout, andsignposted breakfast.or Chinese It’s500msoutheastof nets andbathroom,achoice of Western the gardenbehind. Allcomewithmosquito quiet twinsanddoublesinasmallbuilding There’s andbetter, atripleinthemainhouse, rooms behind theEverest restaurant. Chinese |.com; OldMoshiRd;s/d/trUS$30/40/55) there’s arestaurant anda tiny gym. and the lawns.Allhave mosquitonetsandTV, gardenbungalowsscattereddetached around old two-storey plussmallandpleasant house, roundabout, hasafew dorm-styleroomsinan about 1kmsoutheastof theClock Tower residential area OldMoshiRdand 500moff Old Moshi Rd. ous arrangements. It’sabout 300minfrom gates shutat10pmunlessyou’ve madeprevi- doubles, butthere’s aquadandtriple. The (from Tsh3000) onorder. Mostroomsare cious roomswithshared facilities,andmeals thisno-frills diocese, placehasspa- Catholic r perpersonwithoutbathroomTsh10,000) multistorey buildingabove Bamboo.Café opposite inapoorlysignposted the postoffice hours MondaytoFridayonly.It’sdiagonally and check-out are duringregular business less you’ve madepriorarrangements, check-in quite decent value. There’s nofood, andun- roomshereoff, –allwithshared facilities–are 200 Arusha Naaz Hotel Arusha NaazHotel Inn Everest Outpost Lodge HouseHostel Centre Arusha CrownHotel OTENTNAI • Auh TANZANIANORTHERN ••Arusha

( % ( % Spacious, pleasantly faded Spacious,pleasantly 027-254 4624;[email protected];

( 027-250 8419;everesttzus@yahoo ) % TheOutpost,inaleafy

(

( %

% ( 027-254 8405;www.outpost % 027-257 2087;www.arusha 027-250 8523;www.arusha 027-250 2313; Kanisa Rd; 027-250 2313;Kanisa Clean, homy i Runbythe Naaz’at- ) US$85/105/135; .impalahotel.com; cnr Moshi&OldRds;s/dUS$75/95; .impalahotel.com; and 24-hour internet access. plusarestaurant, securehigh-rise, parking ing tobusinesstravellers inacentrallylocated old Mt Meru Hotel. road andsignposted diagonallyopposite the Tower, about the Moshi–Nairobi 1kmoff roundings. It’s2kmnorthwestof theClock proximitybetween totownandrelaxing sur- agoodbalance backpacker rooms.Overall, other volunteers are available forthenon- and discountsforPeace Corps,VSOs and Accommodation pricesincludefullbreakfast, tree-house dining/drinkingarea andapool. Lounge,restaurant p201),asportsbar, (see sharing hot-water bathrooms.There’s alsoa dozen clean,twin-bedded backpacker rooms surge protection. Nearthemainlodge are a telephone/internet connectionandpower- roomswith ant gardens,includingseveral davels aroundpleas- set andairystilthouses clued-in placehasamixof African-style ron- without bathroomUS$18; rperperson .loasislodge.com; s/d/trUS$69/85/111,backpackers stand. bus justafewing thestadium blocksfromthe ellers’ area hotel inaratherscruffy overlook- US$60/80) gres behind. gardens daily lunch (US$12), andexpansive buffet there’s standard, a high arestaurant witha central choice inthiscategory. Roomsare of completely renovated andisarecommended (formerly theNewArusha Hotel) hasbeen roundabout; rfromUS$200; grounds. green rooms, arestaurant, andapoolinsmall, new KiboPalace haslovely, well-appointed hotel.com; OldMoshiRd;s/dfromUS$145/165; Hotel off theNairobi– Moshi road. NauraSprings ing thesoon-to-openhigh-rise managementthe newwing.Thesame isbuild- area andgood, hotshowers intherooms bureau, restaurants, several asmallgarden isgoodvalue,withaforexthis establishment ais Impala Hotel City Centre TOP END L’Oasis Lodge&Restaurant Arusha Hotel Arusha Hotel Palace Hotel Kibo New Safari Hotel New Safari Well-equippedlocalbusinesstrav- ) Large,reliable andcentrallylocated,

ai ( % ( % Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 027-250 8448/51,2362;www

( ( % ) % 027-250 7777/8870;ClockTower Good-value roomscater- is is 027-254 4472;www.kibopalace 027-250 3261;BomaRd;s/d/tr ( )

Thispopularand TheArushaHotel % ) 027-250 7089;www is The ) NORTHERN TANZANIA 201 This tiny,

(Boma Rd; meals 9.30am-10pm Fri- breakfast, lunch & din- breakfast, h Set in quiet gar- h A good bet for deli- Outdoor garden seating European café vibes in a European café vibes in Delicious Indian food, Delicious Indian food, 027-254 4107; Old Moshi Rd; meals 027-254 4107; Old Moshi Rd; meals 027-250 8448/51; www.impalahotel (Mosque St; mixed grill from Tsh6000; grill(Mosque St; mixed from Tsh6000;

027-250 8419; [email protected]; % This Arusha institution – This Arusha institution – % ( lunch & dinner)

(

to 10pm) % (

(cnr Somali Rd & Swahili St; meals from h h closed Tue)

(meals Tsh4000-6000; (meals Tsh4000-6000; lunch & dinner)

(Kanisa Rd; pizza from Tsh6000; mains Tsh7000- (Kanisa Rd; pizza from Tsh6000; (Old Moshi Rd; meals Tsh5000-6000) h h from 6.30pm) Tasty Chinese food served in an outdoor Tasty Pepe’s Sazan Dragon Pearl Jambo’s Makuti Bar & Restaurant Everest Inn Big Bite Impala Hotel Khan’s Barbecue Via Via Via Via or indoors under a large, covered pavilion, pavilion, covered under a large, or indoors Italian and continental food, well-prepared It’s 500m and (evenings) cuisine. good Indian and signposted. Rd off Old Moshi Old Moshi Rd; meals from Tsh6000; Old Moshi Rd; meals from Tsh6000; ner) in an old, atmospheric garden, or indoors runs a small guest- also house. The restaurant (see p200). house in a dishes, including numerous vegetarian no-frills setting. .com; cnr Moshi & Old Moshi Rds; meals from Tsh6500) with the several here, eateries are There the the best of open-air Indian restaurant with delicious tandoori and various bunch, veg choices. from Tsh5000; from Tsh5000; menu an à la carte setting. There’s Tanzanian local dishes, and and Tanzanian with a mix of Jambo’s Tsh5500. for about the day of a plate door has cakes, (Boma Rd) next HouseCoffee good coffee. snacks and adjoining a used – has inexpensive car lot food–style meals. fast Japanese h on the Bonnet’ – is an auto-spares ‘Chicken earthy by day and a popular and very store of barbecue by night, with a heaping spread meat and salads. Look for grilled, skewered sign. Spares the Zubeda Auto ian selections. prepa- 30 to 45 minutes’ Allow for meals. time ration Thu, closed Sun) Wed, to midnight History Museum, the Natural dens behind meeting place is a popular spot, this laid-back cakes, bread, with salads, sandwiches, fresh local and of yogurt and light meals (a mixture music on plus a bar and live European fare), 9pm. from Thursdays Tsh4000-8000; cious Chinese a garden setting, food, with fast service It’s around the host. and an attentive Impala Hotel. corner from Tsh6500; Tsh6500; 15,000; incongruous place – directly on the roadside incongruous place – directly

) Set amid 027-255 3242/3; 027-255 3242/3; •• Arusha NORTHERN TANZANIA % is (

Just off Sokoine Rd If you’ve had your fill If you’ve Karama, on a forested on a forested Karama, ) Kigongoni has a tranquil 0754-475188; www.karama-lodge0754-475188; 027-250 6911; meals about Tsh4000; ) 027-250 2279; Moshi Rd; meals from 027-255 3087; www.kigongoni.net; i % % s ( ( (www.onseahouse.com; s/d US$145/175; %

% (

(

lunch & dinner) h A new, lovely place self-described A new, lovely with 11am-3pm & 6pm-midnight) ) Amar Cuisine Onsea House Kigongoni Moivaro Coffee Plantation h for Ethiopian cuisine. for Spices & Herbs this is the best spot in town fare, Tanzanian of the Moshi road east for 8km to the signposted the Moshi road east for 8km to the signposted another 1km. it’s turn-off, from where Eating lodge’s profits go to support a nearby clinic go to support a nearby profits lodge’s with mental disabilities. Follow for children Birding and village walks are possible in possible in walks are Birding and village the and a portion of the surrounding area, nooks, a restaurant and spacious cottages, all and spacious cottages, nooks, a restaurant and wide views. bathtubs large with porches, hilltop perch about 8km outside Arusha, a about 8km outside Arusha, hilltop perch and reading with fireplaces cosy common area s/d/tr US$155/210; about 4km from town, from where it’s another about 4km from town, from where so further. 1km or theme, there’s a bar and small restaurant, and a bar and small restaurant, theme, there’s classy. The tranquil and very gardens. Very road along the Moshi is signposted turn-off some accuracy as the ‘best luxury bed and in Arusha’. Each room has its own breakfast off the highway along a signposted, unpaved off the highway unpaved along a signposted, also available. road. Day rooms are for upper-midrange safaris. It’s 5km outside for upper-midrange then about 2km town along the road to Moshi, cosy cottages, each with its own fireplace, and its own fireplace, with each cosy cottages, pop- gardens, this place is justifiably extensive respite and post-safari overnight ular as a pre- www.moivaro.com; s/d US$100/136; www.moivaro.com; Arusha, with plantationsthe coffee east of continue 1.5km further. continue the edge of town to the signpost; turn left and town to the signpost; turn of the edge There are short walking trails nearby, and a short walking trails are There to vegetarians. also caters which restaurant, about 2km from Follow Old Moshi Rd south galows, each with a veranda with views to views to with with a veranda galows, each on clear days. and Meru both Kilimanjaro the town centre. Accommodation is in about is in about Accommodation the town centre. stilt bun- lovely rustic and very two dozen .com; s/d US$79/107; .com; s/d US$79/107; of just south Suye Hill area hillside in the and to both nature proximity town, offers Outside the City Centre Centre the City Outside Karama Lodge Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book Tsh3500; Tsh3500; s at the end of Bondeni St, with tandoori and at the end of including some vegetar- other Indian dishes, NORTHERN TANZANIA Tue-Sun) between around10amand 2pm between on Sunday. about 9amto6pmMondaySaturday,and shops. Mostshops atthemallare openfrom TFA withgelato Centre, andgourmetcoffee near the main market. the SouthAfricanchain, with alarge selection. Sat, 9am-1pmSun)About2kmwestofthetown centre, grounds of theNatural History Museum. it’sinthe music andtraditional danceevents; of thebestplaces tofindoutabout upcoming Via Via Drinking &Entertainment Shoprite Clocktower Supermarket Tsh2000-5000) clean, no-frills Mon-Sat) www.arushanaaz.net; SokoineRd;lunchbuffet US$5; lunch at buffet flour, orboth)andsauce. There’s agood-value ugali posite, bothwithinexpensive plates of rice, Mirapot (India St;mealsfromTsh1000; ternet café; which mealsandanin- alsohassoup,light Tsh1500; popular and otherWestern-style fastfoodtrytheever- all fresh ingredients. well-presented cuisinefeaturing continental ner orquietlunch, andwell-prepared and that’sidealforanintimate din- cosy seating blocksinfromOldMoshiRd,has several This popularplace,nowinanewlocation 17,000; Rd;setmenuaboutTsh20,000,off Kaunda mainsTsh8000- edge of town. p200),onthenorthern Lodgeat L’Oasis (see backdrop of andmusic.It’s lounge seating generously large portionsagainstarelaxed Everything in isfreshly madeandserved food grills,pizzasand‘Kilimanjaronachos’. meatandsea- gourmet wraps,crispysalads, value cuisine,featuring homemade tagliatelle, 10am-late) 202 For self-caterers: Just outof townadjoiningShoprite isthe For more localflavour, try For inexpensive burgers, pizza,sandwiches Lounge Flame Tree (a staple madefrommaizeorcassava (astaple OTENTNAI • Auh TANZANIANORTHERN ••Arusha

(Boma Rd) h , withmostlyburgers; andabranch of , withmostlyIndiancuisine,andthe

h (India St;mealsfromTsh1000) (DodomaRd; Alow-key placewithdelicious,great- Patisserie

noon-2pm &7-10pmMon-Sat,Sun) ( 7.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat,8.30am-2pmSun) % hasburgers andlocal-stylemeals

McMoody’s ( % Agoodspotfora drink andone 027-250 7089;mealsfromTsh8000; Old RockRestaurant Arusha NaazHotel 0754-370474; [email protected]; just

h (Sokoine Rd;snacks&mealsfrom 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, h

(Sokoine Rd; (Clock Towerroundabout) 7.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Steers Geekay’s Take-Away Geekay’s , diagonallyop- (

(Joel (Joel St) Maeda % (Mosque St;meals

h 027-257 2087; 11am-10pm h , and h lunch . ,

ket from milesaround;andthe on theNairobiroad,which drawsMaasai Thursday andSunday,12kmnorthof town region includethe Hotel, has textiles. in thecovered toArushaNaaz entrypassage prices. purchase mediaries get afairlylarge cutof the(high) hereand selection are inter- good,although Heritage and thelarge andunmissable carvings, Shop Craft quired. Otherplacestotryincludethenearby is generally good,buthardbargaining isre- Maasai jewelleryandothercrafts.Quality batiks, with vendors woodcarvings, selling Maeda Joel The smallalleyjustoff Stislined Shopping Come here fordancingtill late. nightclub. &Sat) dawn Fri bar. sports Sunday afternoon, goodpizzaandalively on weekend ithasfree evenings; movies on Mon &Thu) Srnr (US$150). Seronera Arusha–Mwanza (Tsh165,000) andArusha– prices: Arusha–Dar(Tsh160,000),sample KIA includeKLM andEthiopianAir. Some your ticket. International airlines flyinginto road; verify thedeparture pointwhen buying port, 8kmwestof townalongtheDodoma whileothershighway, leave fromArusha air- MoshiandArusha themain off between International Airport(KIA),abouthalfway Kilimanjaro use Regional Air).Someflights National Parks Aviation, (Coastal Air Excel, Shinyanga), Manyara andLake and Tarangire Regional Air),Mwanza(Precision Air,via National Park Aviation, (Coastal AirExcel, andotherairstrips inSerengeti Air), Seronera Air andTanzania), Nairobi (Precision Aviation, Coastal (ZanAir, Zanzibar Precision There are toDaresSalaamand dailyflights AIR Getting There&Away the Moshi road. Wednesday. It’s10kmeastof townalong Colourful local-producemarkets inthe Crystal Club Colobus Club Club Greek , onSaturday,withasmallermarket on

(Dodoma Rd) Apopularexpathang-out,especially ( % Arusha’sloudestandbrashest (cnr Old Moshi & Serengeti Rds; (cnrOldMoshi&Serengeti 027-254 8565;GoliondoiRd)

(Seth BenjaminRd; (Seth (Old MoshiRd;admissionTsh5000;

, 12kmwestof town.Quality Aminata Boutique Ngaramtoni market h lonelyplanet.com from 11pm Fri &Sat) from 11pmFri Tengeru mar- , withmostly

(Sokoine Rd) h h Cultural Cultural , on closed 9pm- ,

NORTHERN TANZANIA 203 (small side street next (small side street to 0784-851831; royalty2000@hot % ( (Colonel Middleton Rd, just down from mail.com; cnr Nairobi & Colonel Middleton Rds; tickets Departures at 8.30am from Bamprass petrol Tsh22,000) station on the Nairobi Rd in Mianzini (Tsh2500 in a taxi Clock Tower). from the Sunny Safaris; tickets Tsh17,000) Buses departSunny Safaris; tickets Arusha at Tsh17,000) luck, arrive5.15am and 6am sharp and, with in Dar es (the to Zanzibar ferry Salaam in time to catch the 4.15pm trying to do If you’re 5.15am bus is the best bet for this). station in Dar es Salaam, this, don’t get off at Ubungo bus at its offices in but stay on the bus until it terminates and near Kisutu,the city centre Tsh2500 it’s from where If the bus docks. ferry about 10 minutes in a taxi to the Arusha, it’s occasionally is running behind schedule from get a taxi from there faster to get off at Ubungo and dock, but only marginally so, and the straight to the ferry severaltaxi from Ubungo will cost you times as much. Other departures at 7am, 8am, 9.15am from Arusha are and 10.30am. Nairobi road. Dodoma To/From Babati, Kolo, Kondoa & line buses to four times Mtei run three booking office next to daily (from the Mtei booking office Express the Scandinavian Scandinavian Express Buses and minibuses run throughout the day between and Moshi (about Tsh1200, Arusha com- and more one hour). It’s pricier but safer the Arusha-Nairobi one of fortable to take shuttles ( p350 ; and Tsh5000 Arusha). between Moshi To/From Nairobi (Kenya) . p350 seeFor information on this route from Dar Akamba busesroute en to Nairobi about 2.30pm from es Salaam depart Arusha in Mianzini, along the next to Eland Hotel Royal Coach pre-dawn buses, a taxi take the station to pre-dawn and bus. at your drop you directly to driver ask the no lug- are may hear, there what you Despite an extraordinarily you have (unless fees gage large pack). es Salaam To/From Dar (all to/from Dar es Salaam The main lines All include the following. about nine hours) at their own offices depart from and arrive stations.bus away from the main Dar Express Kilombero Bus Stand, & opposite Shoprite; tickets Ordinary and luxury ordinary/luxury) Tsh18,000/24,000 at 11.30am. departures and a second luxury bus at 8.30am To/From Moshi 027-250 6167, 027-250 4231; 027-250 6167, 027-250 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, Sat to 2pm 027-250 0087; 0754-317808; 027-250 0087; 0754-317808; % ( •• Arusha NORTHERN TANZANIA h % 027-250 2818/36; www.precision 027-250 4477, 027-250 2541; www 027-250 3201, 027-250 3203; www 027-250 3201, 027-250 ( % % % 027-254 8429, 027-250 1597; reservations@ 8429, 027-250 027-254 ( ( ( 024-223 3670, 024-223 3768; Summit Centre, Centre, 024-223 3670, 024-223 3768; Summit % 027-250 8062/3; [email protected]; ( % ( % ( If you’re arriving at the central bus sta- If you’re Airline offices include: offices Airline Boma Rd) .airkenya.com; Nairobi Rd) .airkenya.com; Nairobi & Sun) .airtanzania.com; Boma Rd) .airtanzania.com; airtz.com; Boma Rd; www.ethiopianairlines.com; Boma Rd) www.ethiopianairlines.com; luggage you can get straight on your bus. For you can get luggage to do is book your ticket the day before, so that the day before, to do is book your ticket with your in the morning when you arrive Tsh2000. When leaving Arusha, the best thing Arusha, When leaving Tsh2000. es Salaam and Moshi pass by here. There There es Salaam and Moshi pass by here. taxis and the scene is less just opposite, are from hectic than at the central station. Fares than be more shouldn’t to central hotels here drop you off in front of the (currently closed) the (currently drop you off in front of All buses Hotel. coming from Dar Mt Meru tion (and unless you’re staying in the budget- tion (and unless you’re case downtown, in which it makes area hotel sense the to stay on the bus), you can avoid to by asking the driver bus station altogether you’re arriving for the first time, head straight time, arriving for the first you’re for a taxi, or – if arriving at the central sta- 7-11 or Hotel tion – duck into the lobbies of to get Aquiline, both across the street, Hotel your bearings. chaotic and popular haunts for flycatchers haunts for flycatchers and popular chaotic and don’t your luggage, and touts. Watch any safari deals at the stations.negotiate If also leave from the central bus station. Both, from the central bus station. Both, also leave but especially the central bus station, are points south. Buses to Singida (via Babati) and other destinations towards Lake Victoria of town along the Dodoma road, opposite along the Dodoma road, opposite town of for buses to Babati, Kondoa and Shoprite, and the Kilombero bus station, 2km west and the Kilombero bus station, 2km west tral bus station near the market, for buses for buses tral bus station the market, near Mwanza, Nairobi, to Dar es Salaam, Tanga, Mombasa and other points north and east; BUS BUS stations:Arusha has two main bus the cen- ZanAir Regional Air Precision Air KLM Ethiopian Airlines Coastal Aviation Air Tanzania Air Excel Air Excel Boma Rd) [email protected]; lonelyplanet.com airexcelonline.com; 2nd fl, Subzali (Exim Bank) Bldg, Golion- 2nd airexcelonline.com; Chartered Bank. opposite Standard doi Rd) Diagonally Sokoine Rd) Sokoine NORTHERN TANZANIA airport arrivals area. direction, inthe lookfortheairlines’ buses departure.the scheduled flight Intheother about twohoursing fromtheiroffices before shuttles toKIAfor theirpassengers, depart- Both AirTanzania andPrecision Airhave free AIRPORT TO/FROM KILIMANJARO INTERNATIONAL Getting Around arather entail lengthy wait. thiscan junction,though transfer atSegera take anyDaresSalaam busand Otherwise, hours).at 8.30amand11.30am(seven Tashriff departsArusha dailyforTanga To/From Tanga transport fromthere to Lushoto. for DarasfarMombo,andthenget local expensively) totake anexpress busheading it often more worksoutjustasfast(although about 6.30am(Tsh9000, sixhours). However Fasaha departdailyat andChikitoline buses To/From Lushoto p353. see more informationonconnectionstoKampala departing ineach direction about3pm.For Arusha andKampala (Tsh30,000, 17hours), Scandinavian dailybetween Express goes (Uganda)To/From Kampala Jordan linesatthecentral bus stand. better thanitwas.CheckwithCoastand (about Tsh30,000), where theroadismuch Shinyanga inarugged southwestern loop 3.30pm. about 20hours),transit visa, departingArusha at Musoma (Tsh38,000 plusUS$20 for aKenyan toMwanzaviaNairobi andtral busstand Falcon andSpiderlinesgofromthecen- To/From Musoma &Mwanza morning. the departsearlyin ward transportfromBabati volves anovernight asmostsouth- inBabati, routetarmac viaChalinze. Thisgenerally in- thelonger most transporttoDodomauses tochangeyou’ll need vehicles as atBabati, for KondoaandDodoma(about 12hours), Kondoa (Tsh10,000, hours). Otherwise, seven 6am and2pm.Thebuscontinuesonto (Tsh5000, fourhours), departingbetween near Shoprite) ArushaandBabati between 204 The otheroptionistogoviaSingidaand OTENTNAI • Aon rsa TANZANIANORTHERN ••AroundArusha Kilimanjaro International Airport(KIA) the southernsideof theClock Towerrounda- opposite theoldMtMerustation, Hotel, on There are aroundthecentralbus stands taxi TAXI day. per per dayfor4WD)include120free kilometres (fromUS$80toUS$100 rentals only.Rates can sometimesbearranged forArushatown rentals of 2WDand4WDvehicles. Self-drive Arusha NaazHotel (see p200 ), withaselection naaz.net) Arusha NaazRent-a-Car CAR &MOTORCYCLE Taxis fromtowncharge from Tsh8000. you’ll have towalkabout1.5kmtheairstrip. road candropyouatthejunction,fromwhere Any TO/FROM ARUSHA AIRPORT to almost halve this. KIA isTsh50,000, it’susuallypossible though area. arrivals sengers; lookoutforthebusinairport from itsoffice. Italsowaitsforarrivingpas- als. ItcostsUS$10anddepartsat6pmsharp coordinated withKLMdepartures andarriv- Namanga (theTanzania–Kenya border), and east of Arusha and the mainroadbetween The 2629m-high Longido lies justtothe LONGIDO optionwithahikenight upa small volcano. ing andavisittolocalfarm.There’s anover- projects andMaasai homes,plussomewalk- Mt Meru, includesvisitstolocalirrigation 7km northeastof Arusha ontheslopesof This populartourto Ng’iresi village, about NG’IRESI theboxedmation, see text, above . Forbookinginfor-is thebestplacefordetails. (p197) informationoffice TheTTB sampling. in theArushaarea, withthefollowingjusta There are many Cultural TourismPrograms AROUND ARUSHA Tsh2000. from ern endof Makongoro Rd.Townridescost bout neartheArushaHotel, andattheeast- Cultural TourismPrograms Riverside Shuttle hasadailybusto The starting price for taxis fromtownto pricefortaxis The starting dalla-dalla An efficient, reliable at Anefficient, outfitbased headingoutalongtheDodoma (

% 027-250 2087;www.arusha lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN TANZANIA 205 programme with the Longido programme programme with the Longido programme camel safarion a three-day/two-night from Mkuru to Longido Mountain, with the final returning night before spent in Longido to Arusha. MKURU MKURU Momela Mkuru, near Arusha National Park’s you a camel camp where of is the site Gate, camel safariscan take ranging from a half-day to several days, or climb nearby Ol Doinyo Landaree to the mountain two hours (about time-consuming summit). This tour is more but you’ll have than the others, to organise in a small and to experience life the chance community and Maasai isolated relatively to see unlikely many other tourists. you’re Bring everything with you, including all food especially for overnight and drinking water, Riding camels entails at least one nighttours. in Mkuru or at the nearby Momella Wildlife also things; there’s to organise ) p208 ( Lodge Nanyuki village a 5km walk from Ngare the camel camp. With sev-) to reach p209 ( eral days, it’s possible to combine the Mkuru implemented by women. It involves visits visits by women. It involves implemented and some to a local women’s cooperative stay is possible if short walks; an overnight an early start, With camping gear. you have to do this tour as a day trip it’s no problem from Arusha. •• Around Arusha NORTHERN TANZANIA Although some have now deviated from their initial founding purpose of serving founding purpose of from their initial now deviated have Although some as income can be booked the Arusha TTB through All tours in the Arusha area Information Centre Tourist generators for community projects – often revolving instead these days around the enterprising the enterprising these days around instead revolving projectsgenerators for community – often get to know Tanzania an excellent chance to – they neverthelessindividuals who run them offer nights, and various ‘modules’ available, from half a day to several Most have at the local level. per person for a half-/full-day pro- starting generally reasonable, from Tsh20,000/30,000 are fees always should be made on site; Payments people). for two or more gramme with lunch (less can be arranged, though expect tours, camping or home stays For overnight ask for a receipt. basic and rustic. conditions to be very should be ar- best transport you the Tours elsewhere ), which can also tell connections. p197 ( TTB with the local coordinator, although the Arusha ranged directly may also be able to help. close to and other programmes for Ng’iresi distant ones; the more Book a day in advance for at the TTBtown, guides usually wait TTB Check with the office on stand-by each morning. to go with is authorised. the one you ensure COMMUNITY TOURISM SPOTLIGHT: CULTURAL TOURISM PROGRAMS PROGRAMS TOURISM CULTURAL COMMUNITY SPOTLIGHT: TOURISM accompanying this described in the text which are of outside Arusha (several Numerous villages Machame, Engaruka, the country (including in as elsewhere as well Kondoa, Mto wa Mbu, box) tourism programs’ ‘cultural organised have and Pangani) Mountains near Lushoto the Usambara They and an opportunity to the safari scene local culture. to experience an alternative that offer light hikes on and cultural and usually centre days, to a few hours from a few range in length activities. MULALA MULALA Set about 30km northeast of in a region Arusha; this is the only tour completely 7km north of Arusha. of 7km north Arusha people are the main attractions in this Arusha people are program around Ilkidin’ga, well-organised Walks (ranging from half-day strolls to a chance and the ‘cultural hike’) three-day the of to experience the traditional culture ILKIDIN’GA ILKIDIN’GA boma and market, and an introduction to to and an introduction boma and market, Maasai traditions. OL DOINYO SAMBU OL DOINYO SAMBU short walks in Maasai This tour involves Arusha 35km north of country, about road, visits to a Maasai off the Nairobi cattle market. sion to get an introduction to Maasai life, life, an introduction to Maasai sion to get including a visit to some bomas and to a local Kilimanjaro. In addition to the climb itself In addition to the climb itself Kilimanjaro. from the main return (eight to 10 hours excur- an interesting makes road), the area giving views west to the Rift Valley, north north giving views west to the Rift Valley, east to and south to Mt Meru into Kenya, The lower slopes are covered in dense bush, in dense bush, covered The lower slopes are rock, bare but Longido’s summit is a peak of 80km north of Arusha. It’s not volcanic in It’s not volcanic in Arusha. 80km north of older rock. much of origin, but a remnant lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN TANZANIA selection ofselection drinksandmealswithadvance alimited a smalllawn,restaurant serving office just upfrom the club. fee (perperson US$7)atthe reserve reserve topaythe forest you’llneed possible, though in Arusha –walkingaroundthelake isalso curity situationimproves –askattheclubor without/with guideTsh6000/7000). Ifthese- order onlyandacoupleof rowboats(perhour spate of robberies. discouraged atthetimeof writingduetoa walksaroundthelakealthough were being the village of Tengeru. getaway, It’sapleasant east of Arusha, justoff themain road near –liesabout 11km the DulutiForest Reserve This smallandtranquilcrater lake –partof Duluti Lake also be arranged. to thelife of theMeru people. can Homestays and theTengeru market, andanintroduction cludes visitstoacoffee farm,alocalschool the main highway, Tengeru programmein- About 12kmeastof the Arushaandjustoff TENGERU 206 Snake Park Monduli Juu (140km) To Babati (20km) To Kitumbeine Meserani AROUND ARUSHA The Monduli (2660m) Monduli OTENTNAI • Aon rsa TANZANIANORTHERN ••AroundArusha Lake DulutiClub Lake Ngaramtoni ὈὈ ὈὈ Ol Doinyo Sambu Longido Mt Meru Arusha (4566m) Ilkidin'ga 20miles 30km 0 0 National Park A104 Namanga Tengeru Arusha

Longido Mountain (2629m) (day admissionTsh1000) Ng'iresi Duluti Mkuru Lake Mulala ὈὈ Nanyuki Ngare Usa River To Nairobi (120km) International Airport (KIA) Lakes Momela Kilimanjaro National Park K ENYA Kilimanjaro To Moshi (30km) Sanya has mate-places.com; s/dfromUS$140/190) mate-places.com; area andmeals on order. small compound,includingacooking make an amenable backdrop. tive gardens andadjoiningwildlife sanctuary are 15roomsandtwosuites, and theattrac- initsownprivate There wildlifeset reserve. lodge with small, attached cottages set around lodge around cottages withsmall,attached set interest foritsproximity toArusha National Moshi Rdabout 20kmeastof Arusha,isof This tiny,nondescripttownontheArusha– Usa River further onto the right. DulutiClubisabout 200m the left,andLake office isaheadto sign.Thereserve Reserve attheDulutiForestabout 200m,andgoright followtheroaddownandthenupfor right, to theInstitute of Livestock Training.Turn tinue forabout 300mpastthehotel entrance forestry DulutiClub:con- office andLake and goabout 2kmtothehotel. Toreach the Village),(signposted Mountain forSerena from where it’sabouta2kmwalkintothelake Moshi RddropyouattheTengeru junction, Have anybusor THERE&AWAYGETTING Club, with Duluti the site istheLake isn’tsecure. Better there’s nowhere for bathingorcookingand lawn behind theforest office, although reserve thatch cottages covered with ivy. terrace andwell-appointed smallstone-andviews over thelake’s green waters fromthe British-style manorwithagenteel ambience, s/dUS$180/225) 8175; www.serenahotels.com; MountainVillage Serena SLEEPING &EATING teel old-world ambienceand excellentcuisine s/dfromUS$145/175; .rivertrees.com; and yogacan be arranged. culturaltours and fishing, walking,canoeing, tate. There are alsotwofamily-stylecottages, reminiscentitself of anoldhunting-lodge es- lush gardensorbetter – suites inthemainhouse tages/main houseUS$130/170) perpersonfullboardgardencot- www.ngare-sero-lodge.com; posted fromthe main road. upmarket lodgesnearby.Allare based sign- Park, andforthehandfulof atmospheric, Rivertrees CountryInn Rivertrees The It’s possibleto Mount Meru Game Lodge&Sanctuary Game Mount Meru Ngare Sero MountainLodge Sero Ngare camping Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels dalla-dalla camp

(per personTsh5000) isalovely colonial-era

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(www.inti onthe NORTHERN TANZANIA 207 does canoe Green Footprint 027-255 3995, 0732-971303; 027-255 3995, 0732-971303; , like many in the Rift many in the Rift , like % (

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(see Trekking Mt Meru, p209 ) is a p209 (see Mt Meru, Trekking Momela Lakes 6.30am-6.30pm) Animal life in the park is abundant. You in the park is abundant. Animal life The main park entrance is at Ngongongare The main park entrance is at Ngongongare While tour companies often relegate the relegate While tour companies often The Information Information the park, and there is also a walking trail along the park, and there rim (though it’s the Ngurdoto Crater part of to descend either on foot or in not permitted floor). to the crater a vehicle Adventures Momela Lakes. on the safaris Entry fees are US$35/10 per adult/child aged aged US$35/10 per adult/child are Entry fees per 24-hour period. For camp- to 15 years five fee is a US$20 rescue . There p77 seeing fees on Mt Meru. per trip for treks per person Guides cost US$15 per day (US$20 for walk- cost US$20. ing), and the huts on Mt Meru about 10km from the main road, while Gate, park headquarters h to climb for arranging guides and porters about 14km further in near – are Mt Meru is another entrance at There Momela Gate. of edge on the southeastern Ngurdoto Gate, open from 6am to 6pm. are the park. All gates side of on the Mt Meru Walking is permitted Mt Meru rock with a and bare lush forest of mixture spectacular crater. gi- zebras, sightingcan be fairly certain of klipspringers, reedbucks, waterbucks, raffes, hippos, buffaloes, elephants, hyenas, gooses, mon- dense despite monkeys, colobus dik-diks, vervet and warthogs, baboons and You may even catch areas. in some vegetation no are the occasional leopard. There sight of to poaching. lions, and no rhinos due to allow at least park to a day trip, it’s better and the wildlife a night or two to appreciate canoe safari. do a walking or crater is Serengeti Ndogo (Little Serengeti), an Serengeti), Ndogo (Little is Serengeti crater the only grassland and open of area extensive Burchell’s herds of park where place in the be found. zebras can and attract shallow and alkaline are Valley, birds, particularly wader of a wide variety by underground fed are lakes flamingos. The con- their varying mineral due to streams; type of a different supports lake each tent, them different gives algal growth, which distinctly also varies quite Bird life colours. they to another, even where from one lake land. only separated strip of by a narrow are ing camp site or resthouse reservations or resthouse ing camp site and ) 027-255 is % ( is surrounded by forest, is surrounded by forest, •• Arusha National Park NORTHERN TANZANIA Arumeru River Lodge

027

Ngurdoto Crater The newer while the crater floor is a swamp. West of the floor is a swamp. West of while the crater animal species. 1500m to more than 4500m, has a variety has a variety than 4500m, 1500m to more zones supporting numerous vegetation of by a narrow strip, with Momela Gate at its at its by a narrow strip, with Momela Gate from varies The park’s altitude, which centre. Momela Lakes to the east. To the west is Momela Lakes to the east. To the west is joined are The two areas beautiful Mt Meru. (often dubbed Little Ngorongoro) and the and the dubbed Little Ngorongoro) (often Arusha National Park, although one of although one of Arusha National Park, its most parks, is one of smallest Tanzania’s beautiful and most topographically varied. include Ngurdoto Crater Its main features ARUSHA NATIONAL PARK ARUSHA NATIONAL PARK % with thick, thorny brush. with thick, Bring plenty of water, sunscreen, a hat and sunscreen, water, Bring plenty of overgrown the trails are long pants, as many of Tropical Trails ( p46 ) also organises hikes here. here. hikes ) also organises p46 Tropical Trails ( the village chief or with the TTB chief the village in Arusha. They can also help you find a spot to camp or (bring everything with you from Arusha) boma. stay in a Maasai an overnight arrange cultural tourism representative, who lives who lives cultural tourism representative, through along the main road in Emairete, plus Tsh4000 for any walks that enter the for- for any walks that enter plus Tsh4000 either throughest) need the to be arranged a guide and pay the fees. All walks (about All walks (about a guide and pay the fees. per day including guide and lunch, Tsh20,000 overgrown during the rains, and a local guide during overgrown is essential. is the area The base for trekking (9km village Monduli Juu, near Emairete of you can arrange from Monduli town), where Rift Valley plains and to the distant cone of plains and to the distant cone of Rift Valley no set routes. are Ol Doinyo Lengai. There trails that become All walks follow old cattle and west of Mt Meru, offers offbeat walking offbeat offers Mt Meru, and west of the with views over from its northern side, Monduli Mountains Arusha of northwest The Monduli range, places, but is nevertheless attractive, with 10 places, but is nevertheless attractive, gar- in expansive attached two-room chalets swimming pool. dens and a heated 3573; www.arumerulodge.com; s/d US$117/174; 3573; www.arumerulodge.com; the other of atmosphere lacks the old-style building – a renovated colonial-era farm- colonial-era a renovated building – house private garden rooms, or two – or in and one with with fireplaces cottages’ ‘river wheelchair access. served wooden around a large family-style main is in the Accommodation table. dining lonelyplanet.com ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ

NORTHERN TANZANIA US$75/100 per half/full day. est gardens.Vehicle rental withdriver costs aroundmod- cottages set small, serviceable theroad fromMomelaGate,1.5km off has US$70/93/115) s/d/trhalfboard www.lions-safari-intl.com/momella.html; headquarters. park two resthouses withkitchen facilities nearthe and onenearNgurdotoGate. There are also Momela Gate (includingonewithashower), The parkhasfourpubliccampsites, three near Sleeping &Eating Arusha. in Arusha National Park 208 (4566m) Summit ARUSHA NATIONALPARK Meru Momella WildlifeLodge The bestmapof theparkis MaCo Rhino Point OTENTNAI • Auh ainlPr TANZANIANORTHERN ••ArushaNationalPark Little Meru (3820m) ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ Ash Cone This long-standing establishment, establishment, Thislong-standing ὅὅ ὅὅ 3000 Momela Route

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See Enlargement r a 3200 t Njeku Camp er 3000 (3570m) Saddle Hut Usa RiverVillage(10km); Mgongo Wa (3820m) Little Meru Momela (disused) Gate 2800 Tembo Falls Arusha (30km) To MeruView Lodge (3km); Viewpoint ὅὅ ὅὅ Njeku a fireplace andtop-notch cuisine. It’s on are spacious,withlarge windows,andthere’s Meru andKilimanjarooncleardays. Rooms lawns frequented andviews of bygiraffes, Kruger, of the propertywasoriginallyowned by Hardy pheric andupmarket of theparklodges – .com; rperpersonfullboardUS$250) fees. park costsfrom US$90perdayincludingsafari grounds onthemainparkroad.Avehicle inpleasant set cottages (allpricedthesame) good-value placewithamixof large and small -view-lodge.de; s/dUS$75/90; retro’ roomdécor,aprime locationonlarge Momela Momella Wildlife Mbogo

2600 Topela Lodge

To NgareNanyuki(8km);Mkuru(15km); Hatari Lodge Hatari Lodge View Meru Outer

Kitoto Rd Hill

(disused) Kitoto Camp Jekukumia Lendoiya

Ol DoinyoLandaree(15km) 2400

Mom Swamp Lengasa Ngare (grassland) Swamp Miriakamba Hut (2514m) Serengeti ὅὅ ὅὅ ὅὅ Lokie Ndogo

Ngurdoto ela Hatari! 0 0 National Park Nanyuki

Route Momela Ngongongare Hill

Park Rd Arusha 2200

River Ngongongare River Gate ( % Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Lake Longil Contour Interval200metres

Camp

Momela Lakes River Route filmfame–with‘modern

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Park Rd Park Clearing 4km 2miles 0 0 Chai River Maji Ya Itikoni Senato Pools 2000 ( % 1:80,000 Tululusia Kinandia Swamp i Gate Ngurdoto 0784-419232; www.meru Hill Maio Falls ) Themostatmos- Gate (1500m) Anunassuming, 1800 Ngurdoto ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ Crater Momela Waterfall Arch Fig Tree Camp Sites 2 miles

Headquarters Outer Resthouses 4 km 1600

Park

Hatari Lodge Rd NORTHERN TANZANIA 209 ). dalla-dalla That said, organised treks are not obliga- are That said, treks organised Mt Meru has a circular base some 20km Mt Meru at Ngurdoto Gate, you can pay your entry you can at Ngurdoto Gate, fees there. Tipping on Mt Meru Generally the guides and porters and do not hard-working and reliable, are tips sometimes demanded by expect the huge mostly park entrance, hut and guide fees. mostly park entrance, hut and guide fees. optional. You’ll also need to add are Porters in get you should food (which in the costs of to stock up near nowhere Arusha, as there’s transport to the park (mini- the park), and of a mal, if you take Fees Park are which all of fees, for park entry p207 See paying After Gate. payable at Ngongongare to to Momela Gate continue your entry fees, a guide and pay mountain All fees. arrange so it’s worth hours, a couple of this can take an early start or making arrangements getting the park If you enter before. the afternoon internal crater surrounded by a steep wall a steep wall surrounded by crater internal cliffs. has bro- 2500m the wall of At about the mountain is top half of away so the ken horseshoe. a giant The cliffs the shaped like of than more are inner wall below the summit 1500m high the tallest – among in Africa. volcanic erup- recent more Inside the crater, peak called a subsidiary created tions have Cone. Ash the Information COSTS in the Trekking companies listed the Most of Rates on Mt Meru. treks also organise chapter US$400 from about range trip for a four-day to US$600. easily on tory, and you can do things quite are your own. Costs for an independent trek TREKKING MT MERU MT MERU TREKKING is the second-highest Meru Mt At 4566m, Although com- mountain found in Tanzania. and by Kilimanjaro overshadowed pletely a spec- it is by trekkers, overlooked frequently Easttacular Africa’s cone with one of volcanic to climbs. A trek and rewarding most scenic you throughtakes the summit and grassland mountain’s on the slopes, lower lush forest exhilarating walk followed by a dramatic and rim. crater the of edge along the knife it rises steeplyabove at 2000m, where across cone with an perfect the plains as an almost •• Trekking Mt Meru NORTHERN TANZANIA Once in the park, there’s a good series of good series a of Once in the park, there’s Via public transport, there’s a daily bus a daily bus Via public transport, there’s Transport from Arusha can be arranged be arranged can Transport from Arusha along this road isn’t permitted, and hitching and hitching along this road isn’t permitted, information slow. For more is normally very seeon hitching, p360. where you need to arrange your guide and you need to arrange where pay your mountain-climbing Walking fees. Ngongongare Gate, where you need to pay where Gate, Ngongongare 14km further on, Gate, to Momela entry fees, do you much good as the park doesn’t rent good as the park doesn’tdo you much rent Mt planning on trekking If you’re vehicles. is no onward park transport from there Meru, However, unless you’ve arranged with one of with one of arranged However, unless you’ve for pick-up, thesethe lodges options won’t are sporadic pick-ups that run most days sporadic pick-ups that run most days are Nanyuki. to Ngare through the park en route of the park junction. From Usa River there there River junction. From Usa the park of (Tsh2000, 1½ hours). Otherwise, you could 1½ hours). (Tsh2000, any bus between and Moshi, take Arusha 1km east village, River at Usa off and get Arusha at about 1pm and Ngare Nanyuki Nanyuki Arusha at about 1pm and Ngare at 7am, and can drop you at the park gate between Arusha and Ngare Nanyuki village Nanyuki village between and Ngare Arusha that departs Momela Gate) (10km north of track that joins the main Nairobi highway track that joins the main Nairobi near Longido. for all vehicles, though some of the tracks get the tracks get though of some for all vehicles, slippery in the rainy season, areas and a few From Hatari accessible only with 4WD. are via a rough it’s possible to continue Lodge, gravel roads and tracks leading to all the main roads and tracks gravel suitable and viewing points. Most are features Momella Wildlife Lodge. Wildlife Momella standard park fees) or, less expensively, at at standard or, less expensively, park fees) for guests from about US$70 per day, trans- US$70 for guests from about with your own vehicle port only. If you arrive it you can leave and want to climb Mt Meru, to pay have you will (where at Momela Gate the lodges can arrange wildlife-viewing drives drives wildlife-viewing can arrange the lodges with all of the lodges (about US$100 per ve- (about the lodges with all of to double this for an hicle for a drop, and up at one-day safari). If you arrive all-inclusive most of own vehicle, the park without your fees. This is also where the road divides, with the road divides, with where This is also fees. Momela Gate. at both forks joining up again where you turn left. From here, it’s about 10km it’s about 10km left. From here, you turn where you pay your where Gate, to Ngongongare Arusha. Take the main road between the main road Arusha Take Arusha. the signboard, until you reach and Moshi Arusha National Park gate is 35km from from is 35km gate Park Arusha National the edge of the park, about 2km north of of 2km north park, about the of the edge Momela Gate. & Away Getting There lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN TANZANIA Arusha National Park The onlymapis on thereverse of MaCo’s MAPS negotiable extra fee. clothing). Heavier bagswillbecarriedfor a up to15kg(excludingtheirown food and fee). Porters weighing willcarry rucksacks per dayparkfee plusTsh800 hut pernight entrance andhutfees forporters (Tsh1500 after to paypark thetrip.Youwillalsoneed Gate andgiven totheporters byparkstaff per porter perday.ThisispaidatMomela Thechargeemployees. isTsh6000 orUS$5 one of thenearbyvillages andare notpark available atMomelaGate. They comefrom guide, butifyouwantporters theyare also from your guide. estimate thedanger andwalktoofaraway have tobeshot, butyoushould notunder- the route). It’sunlikely thatananimalwill theydoknow show youtheway(although orelephants,ratherthanto park’s buffaloes someof youmeet the is toassistyouincase on Meru are armedrangers purpose whose Unlikeguide themself. onKilimanjaro,guides paid tothenationalparkratherthan at MomelaGate. Thefee of US$20perdayis A guideismandatoryandcanbearranged GUIDES &PORTERS porter pergroup per trip. Tips forporters average about Tsh5000 per a tipof aboutTsh10,000 perdaygroup. has completed thefulltrek withyou,planon early. As aguideline,forgoodguidewho trekkers themselves are forcedtobailout stages of theclimb,withresult thatthe common ploysistorush clientsontheearly avoid goingtothesummit.Oneof themost tivated possibleto guidesdoingeverything heard all-too-frequent reports of poorlymo- an appropriate paceover thefullroute. We’ve ment isconditionalonthemguidingyouat to theguidethatyouwilltip,butpay- in aspartof yourfixed costs.Make itclear you tothetop,soshould calculate this tips aguidehaslittleextraincentive totake larly forgoingtothesummit.Infact,without means thattipsare much appreciated, particu- payment fromtheparkforguiding,which their workasrangers, andget noadditional the guidesreceive afixed for monthlysalary their counterparts onKilimanjaro. However, 210 Most trekkers goupMtMeru withonlya OTENTNAI • Tekn tMr TANZANIANORTHERN MtMeru ••Trekking map. separate dorm forguides separate and porters. bring yourownstove andfuel.There’s alsoa hasacookingandeatingarea;bunkhouse basis.Each ate onafirst-come, first-served which oper-bookings forthebunkhouses, possible forindependent trekkers tomake topayhutfees). It’scurrentlystill need not idea tocarryatent ifyoucamp,you’ll (though theyare seasons, oftenhigh full,soit’sagood during theJuly-August andDecember-January spaced forathree- orfour-day trek. Especially (‘huts’),convenientlyblocks of bunkhouses On MtMeru, theMomela Route hastwo SLEEPING Gate trailhead, see p209 . if youare not properly acclimatised. ofeffects altitudefelt, sodon’ttrytorushup tomaketimate enough the it.It’sstillhigh compared withKilimanjaro,don’tunderes- 3 and4of thetrek. WhileMeru appears small often doitinthree daysbycombiningStages trekkersfour days(three although nights), in route butcanbedonecomfortably issteep the northernarmof crater. thehorseshoe The tothesummitalong andgoes the mountain atMomelaGateIt starts ontheeastern sideof The Momela Route istheonlyroute upMeru. Momela Route Itikoni clearing ontheleft sideof the track Arch Tree forest. Thetrackwindsuphill,toreach Nanyuki River andfollow thetrackinto some persuading totake the forest route. and downtheshortroute, anditmayrequire descent route. Someguides prefer togoup optionisshortersecond andmakes asuitable more interesting andisdescribedhere. The land direct toMiriakamba. Thefirst optionis thegrass- path thatclimbsgraduallythrough isa to MiriakambaHut(2514m).Thesecond towards thecrater up floor,andthensteeply theforest through The first isatrackthatgoes Two routes are available fromMomelaGate. (10km, 4-5hr,1000mascent) HUT STAGE 1:MOMELAGATE TOMIRIAKAMBA arch todrive bigenough a car through. only thefigtree remains, withitsdistinctive other trees, stranglingthem.Now eventually parasitic wildfigoriginallygrew aroundtwo The trackcontinues toclimb,reaching From MomelaGate, cross theNgare For informationongetting totheMomela aboutonehourfromthegate. This Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Fig Fig NORTHERN TANZANIA 211 For the ascent take the path from behind the path from behind For the ascent take From Rhino Point the path drops slightly If you decide to go for the summit, take If you decide to go for the summit, take to and from the summit, but the views are so so the views are but from the summit, to and least twice. it’s worth going at impressive can see towards the Rift Valley and the volca- can see towards the Rift Valley Kitumbeini and Lengai,noes while down of and the below you can see Arusha, the town of beyond. Steppe the Maasai plains of 4, but this doesn’t leave a margin for delays. a margin 4, but this doesn’t leave though it can be below Even water. plenty of dawn, as soon as the sun just before freezing rises the going becomes hot and hard. During the rainy season, ice and snow can occur on care. take so the route, this section of up then steeply Saddle Hut, across a flat area, through hour the vegeta- an bushes. After and ash. Rhino rock way to bare tion gives bones by a cairn and a pile of Point is marked but what was it doing a rhino, (presumably up here?). then rises steeply again to climb around the rock and bare scree ash the rim over of edge to to four hours Continue for three patches. summit (4566m). The views Mt Meru reach To the west, if it’s clear, you spectacular. are a chance of avoiding the late morning mist, the late avoiding of a chance find this sectionalthough too exposed others done in the dark, for comfort, especially when beyond the going or find the altitude makes Saddle Hut a bit tough. If the sunrise is your no need go to there’s interest, main point of from Rhino to the top. It’s just as impressive Hut), and an hour from Saddle Point (about so because also see you perhaps even more the crater the main cliffs wall of the inner of by the rising sun. The ideal being illuminated combination is sunrise at Rhino Point, then up to the summit for the views (depending on the mist). If you spend two nights at Saddle Hut you can still see the sunrise at Rhino up to the summit and back in Point, then trek 3 and combine Stages trekkers daylight. Many STAGE 3: SADDLE HUT TO MERU SUMMIT TO MERU SUMMIT 3: SADDLE HUT STAGE RETURN & descent) ascent, plus 5km, 2-3hr, 1000m (5km, 4-5hr, 1000m between ridge narrow along a very This stage, the mountain and the sheer slopes of the outer the most is one of cliffs crater, the inner of trekking sectionsdramatic and exhilarating of leave in East Some trekkers Africa. anywhere (2am to 3am) Saddle Hut early in the morning time to see the summit in the sun to reach Kilimanjaro, and to standrising from behind

Meru , with Take the

(Elephant Rhino Point (3570m). Kitoto Camp (3820m) in about an an (3820m) in about (Buffalo Swamp) after Saddle Hut Saddle Mgongo Wa Tembo •• Trekking Mt Meru NORTHERN TANZANIA Little Meru (a two- to three-hour return trip) return (a two- to three-hour Topela Mbogo From Saddle Hut you can walk up to the Continue following the track and you will the track and you Continue following Alternatively, you can go to Alternatively, From Miriakamba you can walk to From Miriakamba you stunning and you can also see down to the Cone and across the crater the Ash base of You’ll pass this point on your way both floor. (about two hours return from Saddle Hut), return (about two hours similarly Kili are the views of from where the sun sets behind Meru, casting huge jagged jagged casting huge the sun sets Meru, behind shadows across the clouds, the snows on Kili and then pink, as the light fades. turn orange Saddle Hut. back to to get Allow 45 minutes you can see the great dome of Kilimanjaro. As As Kilimanjaro. dome of you can see the great shoe crater, the top of the Ash Cone, and the Ash the shoe the top of crater, sheer inner wall. In the cliffs the crater’s of the clouds, top of across the other direction, hour on a clear path. From the top you’ll get hour on a clear path. From the top you’ll get summit, the horse- Meru’s views of impressive summit of summit of open grassy clearings and over several stream several stream open grassy clearings and over beds (usually dry) to down into the crater and up to the main cliffsdown into the crater below the summit. Continue through some 45 minutes and 45 minutes From the top another 30 minutes. after Ridge) views great are there Wa Tembo Mgongo of up through pleasant glades between the trees to reach (4km, 2-3hr, 1050m ascent) From Miriakamba the path climbs steeply STAGE 2: MIRIAKAMBA HUT TO SADDLE SADDLE HUT TO 2: MIRIAKAMBA STAGE HUT Viewpoint, on a high cliff overlooking a wa- Viewpoint, on a high cliff overlooking Cone Ash the with excellent views of terfall, the crater. of extent and the entire either in the afternoon of Stage 1 or before before 1 or Stage of either in the afternoon the floor leads to 2. The path across Stage station)Njeku Camp and Njeku (an old forest Crater floor right track – the left track leads to the floor flat ground, to cross a – over Crater Meru of bed (usually dry) and descend rocky stream slightly ignoring the path that through trees, Miriakamba to reach comes in from the left, Kitoto Camp. Hut, one hour from reach a junction after 30 minutes. after a junction reach excellent views over the Momela Lakes the Momela and over excellent views the distance. in out to Kilimanjaro ing. Half an hour further, the track crosses an hour further, the a ing. Half Continue Falls. Maio just above stream, large hour to reach for another after another 15 minutes. From a small hill From a small 15 minutes. another after see right,on the buffaloes can often you graz- lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN TANZANIA are atthenorthern tipof theparknearMto .co.tz). warden For bookingcamp sites the contact within 24hours. Forcampingfees see p77 . five to15years, valid for multipleentries Entry fees are US$35/10per adult/child aged Information variety of habitats. woodland, enablingittosupportaremarkable ranging fromsavanna tomarshes andacacia the park’ssmallsize,itsvegetation isdiverse, 330 sqkmarea iscovered bythelake. Despite abouttwo-thirdsof thepark’stotal season, diversity of otherbirdlife. Dependingonthe tens of of thousands flamingos,aswella Manyara, which timesof atcertain yearhosts the RiftValley. Totheeastis alkalineLake west bythedramaticwestern escarpmentof and 1800mabove isbordered level, tothe sea recent years. Thepark,which 900m isbetween decliningin thepopulationhasbeen though other places.There are alsoelephants,al- range here at closer thanatmost can observe aren’t often anditshippos,which you seen) birdlife, itstree-climbing these lions(though Manyara’s mainattractionsare itssuperb spanningtheRiftValleysetting escarpment, how niceitreally is.Inadditiontoastunning to offer andmanyvisitors are by surprised northern circuitdestinations,ithasmuch raw dramaandvarietyof animalsof other Crater. Yet, whileManyara have doesn’t the ing Tarangire NationalPark andNgorongoro allocated onlyaquickstoponloopinclud- Tanzania’s more underrated parks,andoften LAKE MANYARANATIONALPARK ManyaraLake NationalPark isoneof and zebrasare often seen. opengrassland,wherethen through giraffes forest through route forsomeof goes theway, Momela Gate (1½to2½hours). Thisdirect route downtheridge thatleadsdirectly to the forest (2½tothree hours), ortake ashorter Miriakamba, youcaneitherreturn through to Miriakamba(1½2½hours). From From SaddleHut,retrace theStage 2route (9km, 3-5½hr,2000mdescent) STAGE 4:SADDLEHUTTOMOMELAGATE Hut (twoto three hours). trace theroute aroundtherimbacktoSaddle 212 To descendfromthesummit,simplyre- Theparkgate andparkheadquarters OTENTNAI • Lk ayr ainlPr TANZANIANORTHERN NationalPark Manyara ••Lake ( % 027-253 9112/45;manyarapark@africaonline senior park toilet and shower facilities, and tank water toilet andshowerfacilities,tank about anhour’sdrive fromthegate, withnew and othervegetation neartheEndabashriver trees amidsausage ‘Endabash’ campsite), set 2(‘Riverside’and theshadedCampsite or ters andtheparkgate, withtoiletandshower, US$30/5) – There are two CAMPING Sleeping &Eating viewing at Manyara. Mto waMbuCultural Tourism Program. the side theparkcanbeorganised through this). Budget culturalwalksandcyclingout- is theonlynorthernparkwhere youcando drives night inthepark(Manyaraalso does ‘Manyara active excursions’, allupmarket. It hikes Manyara, aroundLake aswellfull-day village bikingandforest walks,mountain ises Manyara atLake based Lodge, Serena organ- area. Green FootprintAdventures (see p207 ), Manyara combinationtripsintheLake safari forupmarketcontact cyclingandcycling- for afew daysand getinto local aglimpse huts orshelters) andisanidealspot torelax tentedstraightforward amid baobab andeuphorbiatrees –hasfive and good-value place–inaplacidsetting sera.com; s/dUS$60/120) Tented Ol Mesera Camp LODGES &TENTEDCAMPS gate onthe Arusha road. in MtowaMbuvillage, 3kmeastof thepark Mbu. Forsaving money, it’scheaper tostay accommodation prices, see p77 . bedding andacookingarea. Forpark-run bandas ofviews, butwiththenuisance flies. tsetse Shore, somewhat furthersouthandwithlake 15km fromthemaingate, andEndabash Lake woodland somewhatinfromthelake about /child US$50/10) There are alsothree for cooking(and–iftreated –fordrinking). together witha bird checklist. good parkmaps,available attheparkgate, visitors centre. MaCo andHarms-ic putout tourist informationoffice andaworthwhile wa Mbuvillage, where there isalsoahelpful Binoculars are forwildlife especiallyuseful Safaris( Hoopoe p44 ) isarecommended Basic foodstuffs are foodstuffs availableBasic inMtowa The parkalsohasabout10doubleensuite

(per adult/childUS$20/10) Campsite 1, close toparkheadquar- 1,close Campsite – Bagayo A & B, both set inacacia A&B,bothset –Bagayo Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels public campsites This small, personalised This small,personalised

( special campsites % bandas 0784-428332; www.ol-me with hotwater, (thatched-roof

(per adult/child (per adult

NORTHERN TANZANIA ) A s ) 213 s ) Lake s Cultural Tourism 027-253 9170; www % 027-253 9101; twigacamp ( Jun-Mar; (www.ccafrica.com; per % (

h 027-253 9393; mtoculturalprogramme@ % ( at the Red Banana Café on the main 027 Jambo Lodge & Campsite There are cultural walks in the surrounding cultural walks in the surrounding are There escarpment, which goes quite a ways to compensating for compensating quite a ways to which goes escarpment, and cuisine. rooms adequate its merely Manyara’s lodge, and the only one inside most exclusive stilted tree-housesthe park, with 10 with private decks a mahoganyand views, set in at the southern end forest the park. of person all-inclusive US$855; person all-inclusive .njake.com; camping per person US$7, camping per per- US$20, s/d US$75/90; son with tent & bedding rental along the main road about 200m Signposted a com- this place has undergone Twiga, east of stiff and now gives competition overhaul plete fied recommendation for this programme. for this programme. fied recommendation to Tsh33,000 Tsh22,000 about Rates average in a group); per day (less if you’re per person be arranged. also can rental bike SLEEPING & EATING Twiga Campsite & Lodge [email protected]; camping per person US$5, new d/tr US$60/63, old d/tr without bathroom US$30/45; compound along popular place set in a large the main road, with cooking facilities, restau- blocks with hot and cold water rant, ablution blocks. Carand newer rooms in attached and Ngorongoro to visit Lake Manyara hire Conservation costs US$140 per day, Area rental and bike including petrol and driver, be arranged. can redeemed by its lively market and its beautiful and market by its lively redeemed palms, baobabs of – a profusion vegetation of framed by the backdrop and acacia trees north of escarpment. It’s just the Rift Valley by the town’s is fed which Lake Manyara, a convenient makes and eponymous river, the park. base for visiting through organised the area, Program office hotmail.com) While most of the post office. road, opposite helpful, and good and quite the guides are well-organised, generally are overall the tours guides af- aggressive is a handful of there to heavy, that resorts with this office filiated so that travellers, tout-style harassment of an unquali- it is difficult to give at present Lake Manyara Tree Lodge Mto Wa Mbu % Mosquitoes) is a small of Mto wa Mbu (River number and a large with a hard edge village touts, although it’s somewhat aggressive of

) The s 027-250 7011, 027-253 9160/1; % 027-254 (

% •• Lake Manyara Park National NORTHERN TANZANIA ( 022-211 5104; www

% ( % ( ) Formerly the government s

(www.maasaivillage.com; s/d half board (www.maasaivillage.com; s/d half This classy lodge with Maasai with Maasai This classy lodge ) s Other recommendations: Lake Manyara Serena Lodge E Unoto Retreat Kirurumu Luxury Tented Camp Kirurumu Camp Tented Luxury 4595/4795; www.hotelsandlodges-tanzania.com; r per 4595/4795; www.hotelsandlodges-tanzania.com; person full board US$380; hotel, this place has a prime location on the edge of the Lake Manyara Wildlife Lodge Wild Africa Manyara Lodge road and signposted. road of Kirurumu, but is nevertheless a justifiably a justifiably but is nevertheless Kirurumu, of 2km from the main It’s about popular choice. ing and wonderful views from its pool-bar ing and wonderful views from its pool-bar naturalness It lacks the intimacy and area. with all the amenities in appealing two-storey with all the amenities in appealing two-storey bungalows, buffet-style din- conical thatched tion on the escarpment overlooking the Rift the tion on the escarpment overlooking comfortable accommodation – offers Valley www.serenahotels.com; s/d full board US$375/550; Serena– in a beautiful loca- complex large 10km north of Mto wa Mbu, just off the road Mto wa Mbu, just off 10km north of Lake Natron. to and cultural walks, including one focusing on traditional medicinal plants. E Unoto is about nestles at the base of the Rift Valley escarp- the Rift Valley nestles at the base of 10km north ment near Lake Miwaleni about birding rewarding Mto wa Mbu. There’s of for cycling as well as the chance in the area, US$250/400; and spacious luxury bungalows overtones It’s set about 12km from the on the escarpment and 6km from the main road, with park gate in the distance. The Lake Manyara views of hidden away are 20 well-spaced double tents several larger are and there in the vegetation, ethno-bo- Maasai-guided tents. ‘family suite’ can be and fly-camping tanical walks, hikes excellent value. Overallorganised. are the hallmarks of this highly regarded camp. this highly regarded the hallmarks of are 027-250 7541; www.kirurumu.com; s/d half board US$160/250) ambience, closeness to the low-key A genteel, cuisine memorable natural surroundings and road. Public transport towards Engaruka can transport towards Engaruka road. Public an it’s the turn-off,drop you at from where walk. 1.5km easy Crater. It’s in Selela village, 14km north of in Selela It’s north of 14km village, Crater. off the Engaruka and signposted Mto wa Mbu culture. There are local cultural walks in the walks in the cultural local are There culture. staff and area, ex- organise help you can also and Ngorongoro Lake to Manyara cursions Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book .kiutuadventures.com/wildafrica.htm; per person from US$150) Straightforward raised makuti-shaded double and a raised tents around a central dining and pool area sundowner deck with fine views towards the lake. Cultural be arranged. walks can NORTHERN TANZANIA the mainroadtowardsparkgate –has attraction of thisplace–formerlyMigunga [email protected]; s/d/trUS$30/60/90) [email protected]; centre near Red Café. Banana alongthemainroadintown port stand (Tsh27,000). Departures are from thetrans- least onebusdaily direct toDaresSalaam (Tsh3000) and Karatu (Tsh1000), andat There dailytoArusha are buses several BUS western edge of the park. US$65 oneway.Theairstrip isat the north- Manyara Arusha andLake between forabout offer scheduled daily,ornear-daily, services Aviation,Coastal andRegionalAir AirExcel AIR Getting There&Away to visitors, space permitting. no-frills twin-bedded roomsthatare open Lutheran Hospital with mosquitonet,fanandhotwater. The rooms namedafter thecontinents,complete and followingthetheme,withensuite Luxury Lodge morethe slightly upmarket planets ( ket, withno-frills roomsnamedafter the Lodge include themainroad.These (south of) other, andmostabouttwoblocksbackfrom in townwithinafew minutes’ walkof each signposted. and mess tent. It’s2kmsouthof themainroad and there’s acampsite withhotwater anda grassy grounds–are smallbutquite adequate, aroundlarge,bird calls.The13tents –set trees ( inagroveForest –isitssetting, Camp of fever www.moivaro.com; s/dfullboardUS$120/160) can be arranged. andsignposted. Mealsthe LutheranHospital rooms inadarkgreen It’sjustafter house. park gate, withno-frills butcleanandquiet north sideof theroad,andjustbefore the day, includingpetrol and driver. hireCar canbearranged fromUS$130 per double-storey chalet blocksandhelpfulstaff. ensuite roomsin a dozenorsocomfortable, grassy campingarea,well-maintained plus to itsneighbour, withalovely, shadedand 214 There are inexpensive guesthouses several Tented Manyara Camp Lake House Green Marowiwi OTENTNAI • TrnieNtoa ak TANZANIANORTHERN ••Tarangire NationalPark

(d withoutbathroomTsh5000) migunga sayari sayari (s/d Tsh15,000/20,000), in Swahili) that echoes with inSwahili)thatechoes means planetinSwahili),and hostel

(dm Tsh3000)

, behindthemar- (

% ( New Continental % ablockaway 027-253 9273; 027-255 3242; Themain –along On the Sayari Sayari The entrygate andparkheadquarters are at the occasionalleopardorrhino canbeseen and impalas waterbucks, giraffes, gazelles, to newgrasslands. Elands, kudus,lesser allowsthemtomoveshort wetseason on can befoundhere untilOctober whenthe hartebeests and–inparticular elephants herds ofparks. Large zebras, wildebeests, centrations of wildlife of anyof thecountry’s October, whenithasoneof con- thehighest Augustanddestination, particularlybetween exploration. Tarangire isaclassicdry-season itiswellworth longer although circuit safari, than adayvisitaspartof alarger northern National Park, it’soften assignednomore Tarangire River. Like Manyara nearbyLake southeast of Manyara Lake aroundthe baobab-studded Beautiful, Tarangire stretches TARANGIRE NATIONALPARK involved. is Manyara,visiting Lake asmuch lessdriving negotiate somethingbetter ifyouwillonlybe Ngorongoro Crater, butyoushould beableto Quoted prices usuallyincludeManyara and and someof theotherlistingsinMtowaMbu. be rented withJambo andTwigacampsites cle rental vehicles atthepark,although can (where petrolisavailable). There’s novehi- Arusha viaMakuyuni andMtowaMbu The onlyroadaccessintotheparkisfrom CAR &MOTORCYCLE Otherwise, mostofOtherwise, thecampsandlodges lo- mitted intheSilalearea nearOliver’s Camp. walking accompanied byrangers isonlyper- an excellentvisitors centre. Within thepark, the northwestern tipof thepark,together with senior parkwarden within 24hours. the Forbookings,contact five to15years, valid for multipleentries Entry fees are US$35/10per adult/child aged revenues. tourist ing areas, withlocalvillagers benefitingfrom of drives border-and night inseveral these Area tothenortheast.It’spossibledowalks GameControlled the south,andLolkisale large MkunguneroGameControlledArea to where animalsroamfreely. Itincludesthe ferent species recorded. October andMay, withmore than300dif- good for bird-watching, especiallybetween at Tarangire year-round. Theparkisalso Information Tarangire ispartof anextended ecosystem Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

( % 027-253 1280/1,027-2508642).

NORTHERN TANZANIA

) 215 s On ) A large A large s 027-250 0630; 027-250 0630; % ( 027-254 4752; www 027-254 4752;

022-213 0501, 027-254 022-213 0501, 027-254 027-275 4925; www % 027-250 0630/39; info@ 027-250 0630/39; ( % (

% ( % ( (www.tanganyika.com; per person full

(camping per person Tsh10,000) About About Tsh10,000) (camping per person 027-250 8790; www.africanconservancycom A newer place about 10km from A newer place about 10km % (

Kikoti Other recommendations: Tarangire Treetops Lodge Tarangire Mawe Ninga RiverTarangire Camp Tarangire Sopa Lodge Tarangire walks can be arranged in the surrounding in the surrounding walks can be arranged Maasai areas. the park boundaries, this a rise just east of spacious, well- camp offers 18-tent attractive luxury and beautifully decorated appointed for nature good cuisine and the chance tents, night drives. walks and with 20 spacious and upmarket, Pampered setsuites built tree-house- on low stilts or It’s just outside style around the baobabs. border, with walk- northeastern Tarangire’s night drives. ing safaris and Lodge Elephant Tented board US$175) guides (and no vehicles no resident are There so you’ll need to bring your own. for hire), Refreshingly different. 7007; www.chimpanzeesafaris.com; s/d full board US$210/320) camp set near the An 18-tent baobabs amid seasonal and accessed via Minjingu River, the park turn-off 3km before a signposted elephant and other Views – including of gate. and the impressive, in seasonwildlife – are Cultural value. reasonable camp is overall northeast of the Makuyuni and west of Kwa Kuchinja road distance. the overlookingwith camping Lake Manyara in Zion Campsite and scruffy, but it’s and bare the park gate 6km before showers are inside the park, and the cheaper than camping food. own warm. Bring your CAMPS LODGES & TENTED SafariTarangire Lodge .tarangiresafarilodge.com; s/d from US$89/128; notable for its prime location on a blufflodge, 10km about River, the Tarangire overlooking is in Accommodation inside the park gate. bungalows. closely or thatched spaced tents value. overall Good sopalodges.com; s/d full board US$210/350) Comfortablesopalodges.com; the gate. location about 30km from rooms in a mediocre .kilimanjarosafari.com; s/d US$70/100) Closely spaced double-bedded decent location sometimes tents in a by elephants. frequented www.elewana.com; per person all-inclusive US$710; www.elewana.com; pany.com; s/d full board plus bush walks US$265/400) the park gate, and very bush, with about 10 bush, and very the park gate, on an perched raised rustic tents and quite and views. with small porches outcrop, each Ngahari Ol Donyo Area Lolkisale B 2 Area 5 Game Controlled Lamakau Mkungunero National Park •• Tarangire NORTHERN TANZANIA 11 Game Controlled Nguselororobi TARANGIRE Silale Swamp 9 Arusha (105km) Lemiyon A1 A1 B2 A1 B2 A1 A1 A1 B2 A2 B1 NATIONAL PARK To Makuyuni (20km); 00 20 km 12 miles 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

angire River 10 11 12

Tar 027-254 4057; www.bobby

Mkungunero Matete % 1 Hill 8 ( ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ 4

Tarangire Gurusi Swamp 3 Gurusi 6

10 12 Circuit 7 Burungi ὅ ὅ Hill A

ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Kitibong River

Kitibong (Seasonal) Hill

Kwa Minjingu Lake Kuchinja Haidedonga Burungi

Mawe Ninga...... A2 Tarangire Safari Lodge...... Tarangire Sopa Lodge...... Tarangire Swala...... Tarangire Treetops Lodge..... Zion Campsite...... Kikoti...... Lake View Campsite...... Oliver's Camp...... Public Camp Site...... Tarangire River Camp...... Elephant Tented Lodge...... SLEEPING Park Gate & Headquarters Lake To Babati (40km); Kondoa (160km); Dodoma (300km) Other options:

MaCo puts out the best Tarangire map, map, puts out the best Tarangire MaCo ὅὅ ὅὅ Hills Manyara TARANGIRE NATIONAL PARK NATIONAL TARANGIRE 2 3 1 4 Sangaiwe camping.com; camping per person US$7) Several camping.com; kilometres Lake View Campsite need to book these in advance, and be completely self-sufficient. the upper-eastern and upper-western areas, areas, upper-western and the upper-eastern Burungi and Kitibong. You’ll near Matete, There is a public camp site near park head- is a public camp site There facili- with basic toilet and shower quarters all in 12 special camp sites, ties, and about Sleeping Sleeping CAMPING available in Arusha and at the park gate. and at the in Arusha available ing and night drives. ing and cated outside the park boundaries offer walk- offer outside the park boundaries cated

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book

ὈὈὈ

ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ NORTHERN TANZANIA Sfr Lodge. Safari ofnorthern section theparknearTarangire US$80).Theairstrip is in the(per seat Manyara ArushaandLake between flights Air allstopatTarangire onrequest ontheir Aviation,Coastal and Regional AirExcel AIR Getting There&Around Nomad Tanzania Camp Oliver’s Tarangire Swala 216 all-inclusive US$650/1050; for safaris. walking bedouin-styletents,andthechance park withwonderful ofthe tent mobilecampinthecentralandsouthernpart ambience and its guides. are permitted–itspersonalised safaris where walking for itsfinelocationnearSilale–theonlyarea inthepark campnotable US$480)A16-bedupmarket wildlife drives of the park. theGurusiwetlandsinsouthwesternpart overlooking camp,nestledinagroveofacaciatrees and nine-tent lodges.com; s/dfullboardUS$445/640)Apremiere-class and otherareas withtheMaasaihave where beenestablished. partnerships walks (manycampsoffer atLoliondo,WestKilimanjaro these),orarrangealongerstayhike Sambu andOsotwaprogrammes–see p204 –are allinMaasaiareas), thechanceforguided take visit Maasaiareas withintheframeworkofaCultural TourismProgram(theLongido, OlDoinyo rather disappointingandcontrived experience. Formore authenticencounters withtheMaasai, as youwantandbuycrafts,albeitforasteep $50fee pervehicle; generally,ofcourse,thisisa cultural villageshave beenestablishedwhere youcanseeMaasaidancing,photographasmuch often becomewidows;remarriage israre. mother. Sincemostwomenare significantlyyoungerthanmenatthetimeofmarriage,they is widespread andmarriagesare arrangedbytheelders,withoutconsultingbrideorher are charged withdefending thecattleherds. groupisthatofthenewlyinitiated warriors, the community.The mostimportant wiseandmoderate30 and40.Senioreldersassumetheresponsibility decisionsfor ofmaking elders, forexample,are expected tomarryandsettledown–somewhere betweentheagesof ior elders;eachlevel isdistinguishedbyitsownuniquerights,responsibilities anddress. Junior circumcision rite. Successive stagesincludejuniorwarriors,senioreldersandsen- boys passthroughanumberoftransitionsthroughoutlife, bythe thefirstofwhichismarked sues butultimately itisthewell-beingofcattlethatdetermines Maasai acourseofaction. dry season.The land,cattleandallelementsrelated tocattleare considered sacred. dietaryrole,especiallyduring the clothing –althoughsheepandgoatsalsoplayanimportant forwhich provide manyoftheirneeds–milk,bloodandmeatfordiet,hidesskins still followthesamelifestyle thattheyhave forcenturies. Their culture centres ontheircattle, tribes. The Maasaiaremost colourful pastoralnomadswhohave actively resisted change,and Tanzania,Travelling innorthern tomeetsome youare almostcertain Maasai, oneoftheregion’s THE MAASAI OTENTNAI • SrneiNtoa ak TANZANIANORTHERN NationalPark ••Serengeti In an effort tocopewithvastlyincreased touristattentionIn aneffort inrecent years,speciallydesignated roleandhave noinheritancerights. subservient PolygynyMaasai womenplayamarkedly Maasai societyispatriarchalandhighlydecentralised.Eldersmeettodecideongeneralis- (www.asilialodges.com; perpersonplus ( (www.nomadtarangire.com; s/d % 027-250 9816;www.sanctuary h Jun-Dec) Anexclusivefour- CAR &MOTORCYCLE the Serengeti’s biggest drawcard. During the one million–and theirannualmigrationis –ofwildebeests which there are more than most famous,and themostnumerous,are the of insearch freshconstantly grasslands. The move rhythmsofdriven byprimeval survival, again, astens of of thousands hoofed animals, sive outagainand naturalcyclesplaysitself treeless plains,oneof earth’smostimpres- perienced asinfew otherplaces. Onitsvast, beauty andsynchrony of nature canbeex- ness andpowersurroundyou,where the The Serengeti iswhere Africa’smystery, raw- 7km furtherdownagooddirt access road. a signposted totheparkgate, turn-off which is from Arusha. AtKwaKuchinja village, there’s in Makuyuni, 32kmfromthe park gate. rentpark doesn’t vehicles. petrolis Theclosest yourownvehicle,organised touroruse asthe To visitTarangire tojoinan youwillneed SERENGETI NATIONALPARK The parkisreached viatheMakuyuni road lonelyplanet.com moran, who

NORTHERN TANZANIA Joins Ngorongoro Conservation Area Map (p222) Map Area Conservation Ngorongoro Joins 217 Area (50km)

Game i Loliondo

Keekorak t Controlled

Gate Klein's

To Loliondo n

4 g

NR i

Area

l e D Gorge Masai Mara

Ngorongoro 6 Olduvai

P r Conservation Boledi River Boledi e

S Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ To Ngorongoro Crater

Gate (75km); Arusha (255km)

Lobo River

River Hembe 8 K E N Y A River To Nairobi (255km) Lake Bologonya Masek Gate River Serengeti bogati Naabi Hill

National Park Orangi Lake

Nya Ndutu 9

Grumeti River Serengeti 00 30 km 20 miles

National Park nyuki

12 Na Mara Ngare Centre Visitors Information ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Banagi Ikorongo 17 10 Game Reserve Seronera 13 5 ver Wildlife concentrations in the park are concentrations in the park are Wildlife The 14,763 sq km Serengeti is also re- is also Serengeti sq km The 14,763 Ri Moru 16 14

greatest between December and June, about greatest low during the dry seasonand comparatively nowned for its predators, especially its lions, lions, its especially for its predators, nowned with trans- fitted collars have which many of be studied can movements so their mitters hyenas, the lions Keeping tracked. and their locations leopards, cheetahs, company are (of zebras You’ll also see and more. jackals herds large about 200,000), are there which gazelles, Grant’s and Thomson’s giraffes, of elands, impalas, klipspringers and including vultures birdlife, warthogs, and fascinating haughty secretary brooding in the trees, brightlybirds by the road side and coloured Fisher’s lovebirds. Isuria

Escarpment ageti iyu River iyu

Mbal Itonjo Hills

ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Fort Ikoma Sim Musabi Plain Nyaraboro Hills & Ikoma Gate 11 7

Nyamuma Hills River

Park Headquarters River Game Maswa Reserve Ikorongo Hills eti Duma

Plain m Sabora

B u Ndoha Plain Gr Reserve C2 C3 A2 D2 C4 D2 B3 D2 C4 C2 B2 C3 C3 A2 A2 A3 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Grumeti Game 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Simiti Hills Dutwa Plain 1 River Ruana Plain

Western Corridor 3

•• Serengeti National Park NORTHERN TANZANIA Ruana Gate 2 Handajega AC Serengeti Serena Lodge...... Serengeti Sopa Lodge...... Serengeti Stop-Over Point... Serengeti Tented Camp...... Seronera Wildlife Lodge...... Lobo Wildlife Lodge...... Mbalageti...... Mbuzi Mawe...... Ndutu Safari Lodge...... Robanda Safari Camp...... Sasakwa Lodge...... Grumeti River Camp...... Kijereshi Tented Camp...... Kirawira Camp...... Klein's Camp...... Kusini Camp...... Sayari Camp...... C1 SLEEPING Ndabaka Gate Camp Site & National Park 15 Bunda

L a k e Musoma

SERENGETI NATIONAL PARK SERENGETI NATIONAL 2 3 1 4 V i c t o r i a To Speke Bay Lodge (15km); Mwanza (135km) Maswa Speke Gulf calves are born per day, although about 40% of born per day, although about 40% of are calves old. months four they are these die before anticipation of the rains. Around February, the rains. Around February, anticipation of than 8000 wildebeestthe calving season, more Serengeti and in the Masai Mara (just over the (just over Mara and in the Masai Serengeti south in again moving border), before Kenyan search of food. They then spend the dry sea- food. They then spend search of outside the July to October, son, from about maining green areas, and to form thousands- areas, maining green in north and west that migrate strong herds dry out quickly when the rains cease,dry out quickly nudging re- few on the wildebeests to concentrate the southern section of the Serengeti and the and the the Serengeti southern section of ConservationNgorongoro these As Area. they and streams, rivers large few have areas rainy season (between December and May), seasonrainy (between and May), December the over widely scattered the wildebeests are lonelyplanet.com

ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ

ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ NORTHERN TANZANIA through theSerengeti’s history andecosys- through walk with aself-guided atSeronera Centre driver-guide. a Arusha andMwanza almostalwaysinclude thepark.Vehiclethrough rentals from both your wildlife watching andyour navigation one alongislikely togreatly enhanceboth mandatory tohire having aguide,although It’snot the tourismdivisionisatSeronera. are atFortIkoma,justoutsidethepark,while 028-262 1504;www.serengeti.org). the theChiefParkbe madethrough Wardenor camp sites, resthouses andthehostel should and validforonlyoneentry.Bookings aged five to15years per24-hourperiod, Entry fees are US$50/10peradult/child to appreciate its vastness. order toexplore thepark’svariedzonesand schedule asmuch timehere aspossiblein visit, it’sachance Tryto nottobemissed. ing are unparalleledand,ifyouare ableto it doesn’t feel overrun. theparkislarge that season enough the high vehicles in even although outsideof Seronera, so. few other youwillsee Inthelowseason, of theparkare justasrewarding, ifnotmore othersections although asa base, Seronera as partof aquicknortherncircuitloop,use atanytime see of year. tions of inthepark,which wildebeests you’ll therebeests, are alsosmallresident popula- and October. As wellasthemigratingwilde- aboutAugust between during thedryseason, around Lobo andKlein’sGate, isagoodbase Thenorthern Serengeti, fromSeronera. cessed the Western Corridor,andit’salsoeasilyac- Corridor. There are campsinornear several sooner, avoiding oronlyskirtingtheWestern dry years, theherdstend tomove northwards window canbequite short. Inparticularly Maytween theviewing andJuly,although Corridor, usuallytakes placesomewhere be- River, whichthepark’sWestern runsthrough the park.Thefamouscrossingof the Grumeti orinthesoutheastern partofnear Seronera December toAprilisatoneof thecamps fromabout thebestbase For thewildebeests, the Serengeti isrewarding tovisitatanytime. aboutJulyandOctober). However, (between 218 Information Overall, theopportunitiesforwildlife view- Overall, There isanexcellentVisitors Information done Almost allshorter andthose safaris, Tourism Warden Tourism OTENTNAI • SrneiNtoa ak TANZANIANORTHERN NationalPark ••Serengeti

( % 028-262 0091,1515, Park headquarters person. route variesdepending Theflight and maps,includingtheexcellentMaCo variousbooklets sells Information Centre Serengeti, including sixaroundSeronera, There are aboutninepubliccampsites inthe CAMPING Sleeping ranged lodgesin through based border areas. park andMaasai culturalactivitiescanbear- anyofthrough thecentral Serengeti lodges. them. Bookingscanbemadedirectly, or that ifanimalsare there, you’llbeable tosee weather andwindpermitting,which means 500mand1000mabovebetween ground, the GrumetiRiver. trytostay Thecaptains on thewinds,butoften followsastretch of 254 8967;www.balloonsafaris.com) by complete withlinentablecloths –are offered breakfast inthebushunderacaciatrees, the plainsatdawn,followedbyachampagne trips–about anhourfloatingoverBalloon Activities Serengeti exploring the park. and it’swellworthspendingtimehere before tems. are Explanations inEnglishandSwahili, Area Ndutu isa (NCA)boundary andLake of here neartheNgorongoro Conservation The mainlodge area Southeast isatSeronera. and fromMwanza viatheWestern Corridor. park, andreadily frombothArusha accessed Serengeti isthemostvisited areaCentral of the Central &SouthernSerengeti LODGES &TENTEDCAMPS ing soft drinks,water anda few basics. there’s sell- although asmallshop atSeronera tobring yourownfood, cilities. You’llneed with runningwater, blankets andcookingfa- required one monthbefore your arrival date. for groups;a30%nonrefundable depositis should bebooked wellinadvance,especially Lobo, NaabiHillGate andelsewhere. These Seronera, Station, Ndutu, KirawiraResearch sites including intheareas aroundLake There are atleasttwodozenspecialcamp far westalongtheMwanza–Musomaroad. Corridor andonenearNdabakaGate inthe one atLobo, oneat Kirawira intheWestern Short (two-tothree-hour) walksoutsidethe VisitorsThe giftshop attheSeronera There are resthouses alsoseveral atSeronera Serengeti Serengeti Balloon Safaris map. Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

( % forUS$479per 027-250 8578,027- NORTHERN TANZANIA

219 Jun-Apr) This h 027-254 4595/4795; www % (

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% ( (www.asilialodges.com; per person full (www.asilialodges.com; Exclusive and strikingly situ- and Exclusive (www.asilialodges.com; per person full (www.asilialodges.com; ) s Watch also for the new 60-bed Kempinski Kempinski also for the new 60-bed Watch Other recommendations: Lobo Wildlife Lodge Klein’s Camp board plus wildlife drivesboard plus wildlife US$600; 16-bed previously mobile camp is now permanently based on the south side of the Mara River – well placed for the to November. migration from about July Serengeti Western budget travellers (all outside the park). In ad- travellers budget to the migration dition to seasonal proximity passes from generally through(which the area the forest-fringed it offers around May/June), year- reliable and relatively Grumeti River watching. wildlife round Suyan Camp Sayari Camp the western Apart from the park camp sites, that has options for is the only area Serengeti .hotelsandlodges-tanzania.com; r per person full board US$440) .hotelsandlodges-tanzania.com; and similar in standard to the Well located If your budget Seronera Lodge. Wildlife in this part of it’s the best value is limited, the park. US$855; park just outside the northeasternmost ated stone-and-thatch boundary, with 10 luxurious night for walks and and the chance cottages, wildlife drives. and being built near Mbuzi Mawe, lodge future. near to open in the scheduled Mbuzi Mawe Northern Serengeti Northern Serengeti north- vegetated heavily and more The hillier visitors, few relatively receives ern Serengeti track base, a fine offbeaten the but makes especially between October, August and passeswhen the migration through. During interest- kept things are the year, of the rest pres- ing by a substantialwildlife permanent most notably,ence, including, The elephants. the Serengeti’s just outside Loliondo area, for the chance boundary, offers northeastern cultural activities and walking safa- Maasai ris, although almost all accommodation here is upmarket. .serenahotels.com; s/d full board US$375/550) A 16-tent camp – each tent with two double beds and views – and an excellent location about 45km north of Seronera, circuits. wildlife convenient also to the central Serengeti board plus wildlife drivesboard plus wildlife A 10-bed camp under US$480) the same management as Sayari that moves between northern walking and offers and southern Loliondo, safaris, cultural activities. night drives and

) s ) Though s 027-250 4153/8; 027-250 4153/8; 027-254 4595/4795; •• Serengeti Park National NORTHERN TANZANIA This good-value This good-value % ( 027-250 0630/9; info@ %

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Good overall value, with a prime loca- Good overall Kusini Camp Serengeti Serena Lodge Seronera Wildlife Lodge Ndutu Safari Lodge Serengeti Sopa Lodge ard, there are no age restrictions on children. restrictions no age are ard, there with 12 well-spaced and well-appointed tents. tents. with 12 well-spaced and well-appointed this stand- Somewhat unusually for camps of a prime wet-season setting amid rocky out- Serengeti, southwestern crops in the remote .com; s/d full board US$765/1030) Accommodation is in well-appointed two- Accommodation is in well-appointed bungalows. Maasai-style storey strip, this place is not as favourably located located strip, this place is not as favourably as Seronera but is other- Lodge Wildlife comfortable. wise and very a good choice safari atmosphere at the evening buffet. at the safari atmosphere situated for wildlife drives, plus modest but plus modest but drives, for wildlife situated end-of-the-daypleasant rooms and a lively tion in the heart of the Serengeti and well- the Serengeti tion in the heart of www.hotelsandlodges-tanzania.com; r per person full board www.hotelsandlodges-tanzania.com; US$400) atmosphere is relaxed and rustic – an overall rustic – an overall and is relaxed atmosphere camps our favourite and one of fine choice, the Serengeti. in the park. Accommodation is in unpretentious the park. Accommodation is in unpretentious and the but comfortable cottages, en suite NCA. In addition to NCA fees, you’ll needNCA. In addition to NCA fees, to that you cross into any time fees pay Serengeti of wildebeests during the wet season,of and in the surrounding possible walking safaris are of NCA. It’s well-placed for wildlife viewing, NCA. It’s well-placed for wildlife of especially for observing herds the enormous place is in a lovely setting the just outside place is in a lovely part in the far western Serengeti southeastern wildlife wildlife watching. .ndutu.com; s/d full board US$215/326) the Niaroboro Hills, and well-located for for well-located the Niaroboro Hills, and rooms and two double beds – have all the beds – have rooms and two double 20km south about comforts, plus views. It’s Seronera of of as the bird flies, on the edge sopalodges.com; s/d full board US$210/350; s/d full board US$210/350; sopalodges.com; year round. around the Moru Kopjes area, which has has which Moru Kopjes area, around the population wildlife a substantial resident in addition to being well-placed for the wilde- being well-placed for in addition to beest the wet season, during is also notable and leopard sightings,for its lion especially prime base for wildlife watching during the during the watching baseprime for wildlife wet season, to April December it’s full when southwest, rugged wildebeests. The more of Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book www.serenahotels.com; s/d full board US$375/550; About 20km northwest of Seronera 20km northwest of air- About ponderous and architecturally unappealing, ponderous and architecturally small sitting – spacious, with the rooms here NORTHERN TANZANIA 3km fromIkomaGate andjustoutsidethe s/d US$30/60) www.serengetistopover.com; campingperpersonUS$10, exclusive campsintheSerengeti. It’sina son all-inclusiveUS$855; sfr luxury’. safari describes astheepitome of ‘coloniallystyled rious tents doneupinwhat itsadvertising infeel than Grumeti,withluxu- what tamer ismorewest of openand some- Seronera, about 90km onasmallrise Kirawira, set s/dall-inclusiveUS$950/1450; www.serenahotels.com; with all the amenities. Accommodation isin10spaciousluxury tents areJuly whenthewildebeests often around. that’s especiallyprimearoundJune and wild bush location neartheGrumetiRiver from the bathtubs. large verandas andwonderfulviews,including or spacioustented and stonecottages with from guests,withroomsinthemainlodge, has already garnered astringof goodreviews lodges inthispartof it thepark,although lets s/dfullboardUS$315/610; .mbalageti.com; lodges/dfullboardUS$305/385,tentedcha- area. border drivesfor night andguidedwalksinthe bathrooms andhotwater, plusthechance park boundary,with12no-frills tents with .moivaro.com; s/dfullboardUS$160/213) restaurant and cooking facilities. your ownforUS$15)plusafew rooms,a tented accommodation(youcanalsopitch foroverlanders,popular base withfunctional from theSerengeti’s Handajega Gate. It’sa Musoma roadandsignposted, andabout2km park boundaries,18kmeastof theMwanza– board US$150; eshi.com; s/dtentedrhalfboardUS$85/125,dbungalows notice. advance nearby. Safari vehicle rental ispossiblewith the Mwanza–Musomaroadwilldropyou excursions canbearranged. Anybusalong traditional healerandotherSukumacultural Victoria,visitstoa Local boattripsonLake 10 simplerondavels, andarestaurant-bar. with hotshowers andacookingarea, plus 1km fromNdabaka Gate. There’s camping rectly on theMwanza–Musomaroadabout 220 Kirawira Camp Kirawira Camp Grumeti River Mbalageti Tented Camp Serengeti Tented Camp Kijereshi Point Stop-Over Serengeti OTENTNAI • SrneiNtoa ak TANZANIANORTHERN NationalPark ••Serengeti Thisenthusiasticplaceisdi- s

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Oneof themost ( % 028-262 1231;www.kijer ) One of thenewer

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) manent, mostlyupmarket campsthatmove There isan increasing numberof semiper- Sasakwa Lodge Camp Robanda Safari BayLodge Speke South, Lobo andmostother ranger posts. (US$180). There are alsoairstrips at Serengeti (US$150 perperson oneway)andGrumeti ous Serengeti airstrips, includingSeronera Air have fromArusha tovari- dailyflights Aviation,Coastal and Regional AirExcel AIR Getting There&Around Camp Safari Serengeti Simiyu Camp Camp Olakira migration. the of alwaysbeingoptimallypositionedfor withthewildlife, withthegoalseasonally some ofthebestguidesin the Serengeti. mobile campthatfollowsthewildebeestmigration, with per personall-inclusiveUS$590/930)Ahighlyexclusive fromSeptember north to November. toAugustandinthe area fromMay intheSeronera March, fromDecember to US$575/860) InthesouthernSerengeti Mobile Camps ispossible at allthree, andhorseriding at Sasakwa. Tented are Camp.)Wildlife possible walksandnightdrives othertwoare Faru Faruby Singita. (The LodgeandSabora ofexclusivelodgesinthearea run estate. It’soneofatrio vaguely reminiscent ofa transplantedEnglishcountry stonecottages withseven WesternCorridor the Serengeti’s of north Reserve inclusive US$1500)IntheGrumetiGame March, and in central Serengeti fromJune andincentralSerengeti March, to November. the Ndutuarea withthewildebeestsfromDecemberuntil six-tentcampisbasedin board US$445)Thiscomfortable rental. vehicle from anyonewhostayshere onceitopens. There’s no thatching, andthere’s arestaurant. Wewelcomereports through. Accommodationisinensuitedomedtentsunder wasabouttoopenwhenwepassed outside IkomaGate 16-tent semipermanentcampnearRobandavillagejust s/dfullboardUS$110/150)This .robanda-safari-camp.com; vhce hire. vehicle There’s no andmountainbiking. excursions onthelake, The staffcanhelpyouorganiseboat,fishingorbirding spotless, ifrathersoulless,ensuitefour-personbungalows. There are simpletentswithshared facilities,and Victoria. withLake choice ifyouwanttocombinetheSerengeti ofMwanza,andagood and125kmnorth Gate of Ndabaka about15kmsouthwest Victoria lows US$102/145)OnLake .com; s/dtentswithoutbathroomUS$54/90,bunga- Other recommendations: (www.africawilderness.com; s/dfullboard (www.africawilderness.com; (www.asilialodges.com; perpersonfull (www.singita.com; per person all- ( Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels % ( 028-262 1236;www.spekebay (www.nomad-tanzania.com; % 0754-282251; www NORTHERN TANZANIA , 221 Naabi 027-253 , on the , on the 6am-6pm) % ( h 6am-6pm) h headquarters 027-253 7031; % (

027-253 7030; % ( at Park Village at Ngorongoro Crater. at Village at Park Lodoare Gate The two official entry points to the NCA Both MaCo and Harms-ic put out maps and Harms-ic Both MaCo Entry fees – which you’ll need – which to pay for Entry fees Information Information Lodoare Lodoare Gate. The Crater Highlands Highlands Crater beautiful The ruggedly volcanoes and of an elevated range consist of collapsed volcanoes rising up from the side of ing for walking safaris, cost US$20 per day US$40 of fee is a vehicle per group. There per foreign-/Tanzanian-registered /Tsh10,000 per entry and an additional, steep vehicle US$200 per vehicle crater-service of fee down into Ngorongoro per entry to drive Camping costs US$30/10 per adult Crater. (US$50/20 in in public camp sites /child camp sites). special are and Ngorongoro Crater, just south of Gate Hill National Park. border with Serengeti at the NCA tour- the NCA, available of ist information office in Arusha and at boundaries, is the mysterious archaeologi- boundaries, is the mysterious Nestled in the barren Engaruka. of cal site southern border landscape along the NCA’s the is Lake to the northeast of Eyasi, while NCA in the arid expanses near the Kenyan Lake Natron. border is the alkaline the jurisdiction of The NCA is under the Ngorongoro Conservation Authority Area has its (NCAA), which 7006, 027-253 9108, 027-253 7019; www.ngorongorocrater .org) US$50 all activities within the NCA – are period (US$10 per 24-hour per person old, and free to 16 years five for children Guides, includ- under five). for children (NCA) – a Unesco World Heritage Site – – Site World Heritage – a Unesco (NCA) its cen- km. Near 8300 sq about covers many famous where Gorge, is Olduvai tre beenTo the west unearthed. fossils have Lakes the alkaline Ndutu and Masek, are the border in although Ndutu is just over particularly are lakes Both the Serengeti. between viewing wildlife for good areas over- are April, when they December and the con- run with wildebeests. In the east of servation volcanoes and of is a string area referred (collapsed volcanoes,craters often inac- not all, are to as calderas); most, but Further east, just outside the NCA’s tive. 6am-4pm) h ( at the southeast- Ndabaka Gate 6am-6pm) •• Ngorongoro Conservation Area NORTHERN TANZANIA h (

Access from Arusha is via the heavily used is via the heavily Access from Arusha

Petrol points en route from Arusha include from Arusha include points en route Petrol The entire Ngorongoro ConservationThe entire Area Crater belongs) together with vast stretches with vast stretches belongs) together Crater and woodland. plains, grasslands, bush of Crater Highlands (to which the Ngorongoro HighlandsCrater (to which The world-renowned Ngorongoro of area larger a much is just one part of Crater the of consisting ecosystems interrelated petrol points are Mwanza and Musoma. Mwanza petrol points are NGORONGORO CONSERVATION AREA cient supplies. From the west, the most reliable cient supplies. From the west, the most reliable Lodge, although it’s expensive. It is not avail- althoughexpensive. it’s Lodge, else so if you have in the park, able anywhere with suffi- come prepared your own vehicle also usually available at Ngorongoro Crater at Ngorongoro Crater also usually available and at the Seronera Village) Wildlife (Park Makuyuni, Mto wa Mbu and Karatu. Petrol is Petrol Mto wa Mbu and Karatu. Makuyuni, and in the north near Klein’s Camp. Driving is 7pm. after in the park not permitted entry points at Handajega (Western Corridor) Corridor) (Western entry points at Handajega Gate, 5km from the Kenyan border, is the border, is the 5km from the Kenyan Gate, National Mara Masai to/from Kenya’s route Reserve, but the border is open only to East other are or citizens. There African residents Mwanza–Musoma road, from an unpaved Mwanza–Musoma road, from an unpaved Bologonya track running east from Bunda. cent to good condition; allow two to three cent to good condition; allow two to three is also accessed Ikoma Gate from the hours. direct access to the Western Corridor. The Corridor. access to the Western direct to Seroneraroad from Ndabaka is in de- is about 140km northeast of Mwanza along Mwanza 140km northeast of is about you road, and gives the Mwanza–Musoma ern edge of the park. From here, it’s 75km it’s the park. From here, of ern edge further to Seronera. Naabi Hill Gate Seronera, you’ll have the problem of getting getting Seronera, of the problem you’ll have is not permit- onward transport, as hitching the park. in ted stop to observe will need You the wildlife. and, if you disembarkto pay park fees at check with Coastal line at the Arusha central check bus station – although to you won’t be able or Musoma via the Western Corridor route – Corridor route or Musoma via the Western Most travellers visit the Serengeti with an with an visit the Serengeti Most travellers For safariorganised own vehicle. or in their option to the only other shoestring travellers a the animals is to take a glimpse of try to get between Arusha and Mwanza bus travelling CAR & MOTORCYCLE CAR & MOTORCYCLE Some of Coastal’s flightsof Some to on continue National Park Island and Rubondo Mwanza on demand. lonelyplanet.com ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ

NORTHERN TANZANIA of theCrater area Highlands isremote and cattle here forhundreds of years. of thearea are theMaasai, who have grazed give therange itsname. Themainresidents have toformthe craters sincecollapsed that the Great RiftValley, andtheoldervolcanoes ofseries eruptionsconnected withthebirthof were created over manymillions of years bya Ngorongoro (2200m).Thedifferent peaks of(‘Mountain God’inMaasai; 2878m)and 3262m), thestill-active Ol DoinyoLengai (3648m), Empakaai(alsospelledEmbagai; 3107m), Olmoti(3100m),Loolmalasin clude Oldeani(3216m),Makarot (Lemagurut; along theNCA’seastern edge. Thepeaksin- the Great RiftValley andrunninginachain 222 2 Joins SerengetiNational Mwanza (375km) Seronera (95km);Musoma(340km); Naabi HillGate(45km); Lake Ndutu&Masek(30km); To OlduvaiTentedCamp(10km); 4 1 3 2 NGORONGORO CONSERVATIONAREA

Escarpment Endulen

Apart fromNgorongoro Crater, much Eyasi Eyasi

Lake

1500

1800 SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Lake EyasiBushCamp...... Kudu Campsite&Lodge...... Kamakia Campsites...... Jerusalem Campsite...... Gibb's Farm...... E UnotoRetreat...... Crater ForestTentedLodge...... Chem CampSite...... Bougainvillea SafariLodge...... Olduvai Museum...... NCAA Headquarters...... Laetoli...... Engaruka Ruins...... iiaNea...... A4 Kisima Ngeda...... e OTENTNAI • Noogr osrainAe TANZANIANORTHERN Area ••NgorongoroConservation

Park Map(p217)

P 2100 2400 e G

a n o

Makarot

Ilmisigiyo i (3107m) 29 1200 l g

12 n Ranger Post Endamaga s e M AC

14 t

i o 6

u (3216m) Oldeani Sadiman

Kidero MountainsGhorofani n 19 Ngorongoro Park Village t Gorge Olduvai

Descent Rd Descent a Seneto

i n 25

26 s 3 14 13 12 11 10 17 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Magadi A4 B4 C1 C3 B4 C4 B4 A4 B4 A2 B4 A3 C2 21 Ngorongoro Lake Munge Waterfall Crater 18 Site Lerai Picnic 7 Conservation

Ngorongoro 1500 Tindiga TentedLodge...... Tembo BSpecialCampsite..... Tembo ASpecialCampsite..... Simba BSpecialCampsite...... Simba AOrdinaryCampsite... Plantation Lodge...... Ol MeseraTentedCamp...... Bar...... Ngorongoro WildlifeLodge.... Ngorongoro SopaLodge...... B4 Ngorongoro SerenaSafariLodge... Ngorongoro FarmHouse...... Ngorongoro CraterLodge...... Camp...... Moyo HillCampsite...... Octagon SafariLodge&Irish Ngare SeroLakeNatron Area

5 DescentAscent Rd & Lodoare Gate 15 27 B 22 24 (3100m) Olmoti 28

13 1200 Olmoti Crater Karatu 9 Munge Oljoro Nyuki H ighlands Nainokanoka 20 P lain S ale C rate ὈὈ

1500 1200 Manyara National Losirua Bulati Lake Park 2700 Empakaai

for anything exceptdayhikes, youwillneed tobeaccompaniedbyaguide,and you’ll need of ormore. uptotwoweeks Forallroutes, range fromshort dayjauntstoexcursions involved, trekking here isexpensive. Treks of because thelogistics is onfoot,although The bestwaytoexplore the Crater Highlands TREKKING THECRATER HIGHLANDS guide from the NCAA. and water, andtoarrange permission anda withpetrol tors tobeself-sufficient willneed visi- Arusha-based touroperators. Self-drive a vehicle arranged oneof safari through the as goodtrekking. Itcanalsobevisited on Tanzania’s mostunusualscenery,aswell visited, itoffers although seldom someof 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 1800 Depression

Embulbul

Empakaai 2400

2100 2700 A4 B3 B3 A3 A3 B4 C4 B4 B4 B3 A3 B3 C1 B4 Crater

Lake 3000 Manyara Emowoengoilil Lake Loolmalasin (3648m) wa Mbu Ngare Mto Sero Village Nairobi 11 Hill Kitete Engaruka 16 23 8 Village Ngare Sero 10 Juu (2878m) Lengai Ol Doinyo Selela 1 Natron 12miles 20km 0 0 Lake Engaruka (2614m) Kerimasi Gelai-Bomba

1500 1800 Engaruka Basin (2941m) lonelyplanet.com Losiminguri

Gelai 900

1200 2100 D Meru-goi Kitumbeini 1500 1800 Gelai (2865m) Lumbwa Gelai- Lombori Burko 1200

1500 1800

900 1500 2100 NORTHERN TANZANIA 223 Because popularity (close the crater’s of Despite the crater’s steepness, there is is steepness, there the crater’s Despite pick one or several strategic spots and then pick one or several spots and then strategic to stay put for a while, letting the nuances environment the crater’s and subtleties of gradually come to you rather than join- floor when the crater across ing the dashes other about particularly radio each drivers good sightings. two settlers’ farms in the crater; you can still crater; farms in the two settlers’ huts. the see one of 2007), it can be easy in to 400,000 visitors from the natural magnifi- sidetracked to get several ve- are cence, especially when there hicles crowded around one or two animals, clicking cameras and all to a backdrop of limited radio static. has recently The NCAA around permitted vehicles the number of and it’s likely any particular animal to five, access to the that further controls on vehicle will be introduced in the near future. crater to mini- the best ways one of Meanwhile, mise these into distractions is by getting ve- few relatively are early (there the crater about 9am). It also helps to hicles before their way around the grasslands, swamps grasslands, swamps their way around the Chances floor. on the crater and forests good that you’ll also see are a black rhino people this is one or two, and for many is main draws. The birding the crater’s of around Lake including also excellent here, base, at the crater’s lake the soda Magadi, flamingos to its of attracts hundreds which shallows. animals in and of considerable movement and out, thanks to the permanent water Animals and floor. on the crater grassland the local Maasai with the crater birds share grazing rights, and you people, who have their cattle. may come across them tending were During the German colonial era there Ngorongoro Crater Crater Ngorongoro vis- blue-green ethereal its stunning With tas, close-range opportunities and viewing the wildlife, concentrations of unparalleled Tanzania’s is one of Crater Ngorongoro of destinations, and one most visited areas. wildlife-viewing Africa’s best-known the of wide it is also one At about 20km un- Its steep, calderas in the world. largest the setting for an in- walls provide broken elephants, lions, natural drama, as credible buffaloes as such and plains herbivores wildebeests, Thomson’s gazelles, graze, stalk and otherwisereedbucks make zebras and . Costs vary •• Ngorongoro Conservation Area NORTHERN TANZANIA Trekking in East Africa in East Trekking There are no camps or lodges apart from no camps or lodges are There Alternatively, you can contact you can the NCAA Alternatively, Nearly all visitors arrange treks through a treks arrange Nearly all visitors To experience the area but still stay but still stay To experience the area There are no set routes, and the possibilities no set and the possibilities routes, are There overnight stay or two. stay overnight Crater. the facilities at Ngorongoro it’s then possible to continue on down to it’s then possible to continue on down to Lake Eyasi, though for this you’ll need an accessed from Park Village, where you can where Village, accessed from Park From Oldeani, a ranger/guide. also arrange through rather than through the NCA, a op- tour operator, the least complicated is be Oldeani, which tion would probably US$50 NCA entry fee and US$20 guide fee. and US$20 guide fee. US$50 NCA entry fee trying to do things on your own If you’re less from a base from and less at Ngorongoro Crater, only the apart from transport costs, involve Oldeani, or at Empakaai or Olmoti Craters. Oldeani, or at Empakaai or Olmoti Craters. these can easily be done in a day or All of within a reasonable budget, there are several are there budget, within a reasonable or including up Makarot good short hikes, Ol Doinyo Lengai. Ol days, but can be cut to three by starting at days, but can be cut to three by one day to climb Nainokanoka or extended just north of Ngorongoro Crater and crosses Ngorongoro Crater just north of Sero the highlands at Ngare village to finish four near Lake This normally takes Natron. are numerous. A popular multiday trek starts numerous. A popular multiday trek are based at designated Maasai ‘cultural bomas’, based Maasai at designated entry fee. has a Tsh10,000 which of each then take care of arranging the camp sites, arranging the camp sites, of care then take usually are The hikes guides and donkeys. the car to the end of the trek to collect you, as the trek the car to the end of NCAA will not circuits. The are most routes same as going through a tour company. You’ll all camping equipment and need to provide you’ll also supplies yourself, including water; (essential for accessing a vehicle need to hire for someone to drive and arrange all treks) However, this requires at least one month’s However, this requires the up costing about notice, and usually winds directly and arrange your trek through them. your trek and arrange directly per person per day in a group of four, includ- group of per day in a per person entry fees. ing NCA Planet’s you’ll need to contact a specialist operator. For For you’ll need to contact operator. a specialist , and Lonely p54 seesome recommendations, Doinyo Lengai outside the NCA bound- (just in this region most trekking aries), but for tour company. A number of Arusha-based Arusha-based A number of tour company. to Ol to Empakaai and do treks companies donkeys or vehicle support to carry water water to carry support or vehicle donkeys and supplies. US$200 from about widely, but expect to pay lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN TANZANIA from the lodge, including to Olmoti. co.tz) here hasabase andorganises shorthikes Footprint Adventures (www.greenfootprint. tract somewhatfrom theambience. Green popularity, especially withgroups,cande- its season duringhigh not better, although hotels, attheotherSerena if good asthose and facilities atleastas place withstandards descent route. attractive It’sacomfortable, southwestern crater rimnearthemaincrater isinafinelocationonthe The popularSerena s/dfullboardUS$375/550) 4153/8; www.serenahotels.com; ice are commendable. andserv- with twodoublebeds,andstandards Accommodation isinspaciousrooms,each Crater, andnearacrater descent/ascentroad. rim, justbefore thetrackleadinguptoOlmoti cated, off onitsowntheeastern crater @sopalodges.com; s/dfullboardUS$210/350) ments are planned. the rimof thecrater, newdevelop- although There are currently fourlodges on,ornear, Lodges Empakaai. Lake and Masek; andoneonthesouthernrimof Lodge; acluster of sites Ndutu nearLakes Tembo AandBnorthof theNgorongoroSopa ing SimbaB,justuptheroadfromA, (none of which have anyfacilities),includ- headquarters. NCAA the roadfromLodoare Gate, notfarfrom there when there isnocloudcover. It’salong over thecrater ifyou’re tobe luckyenough trines andcoldshowers) andgreat views has basicbutgenerally cleanfacilities(la- The onlypubliccampsite isSimbaA,which Camping SLEEPING especially if you’re camping. rim, sobringajacket andcomeprepared, 6pm. before all vehicles mustbeoutof thecrater area (fordescent)at4pm;at 7amandclose negotiate. to ing AprilandMay itcanbewetanddifficult can bevisited atanytimeof theyear,butdur- For fee information,see p221 . Ngorongoro INFORMATION 224 Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge Safari Ngorongoro Serena Ngorongoro SopaLodge There are numerousspecialcampsites It canget very coldandrawonthecrater The gates downtothecrater flooropen OTENTNAI • Krt TANZANIANORTHERN ••Karatu

( % 027-250 0630/9;info

( % Welllo- 027-250 ( day of each monthisKaratu’s market day ing inthenearbyrollinghills.Theseventh especiallyifyou’rein itself, interested inwalk- it’s alsoworthconsideringthetownasabase onentryfees forthecrater,to economise but out of Arushause Karatu asanovernight stop visiting Ngorongoro. Many campingsafaris countryside, andmakes aconvenient for base Lodoare Gate issurroundedbysomebeautiful town20kmsoutheastofThis small,scruffy % KARATU butler. It’sonthesouthwestern crater rim. ultra topend,andpricesincludeyourown of stylesanddécor. andamenitiesare Service in terms of design,withaneclecticcollection three camps–isthemostinteresting separate person all-inclusiveUS$1115) go alongway to compensating. come upabitinrecent times,andtheviews attheothercrater rimlodges,those they’ve ter can’tcompare rim. Whilestandards with lodge onthesoutherncra- hasaprimesetting hotel, this oldandarchitecturally unappealing per personfullboardUS$420) 027-2537058/73;www.hotelsandlodges-tanzania.com; r direct and three basicandsomewhat chilly twin- place withalarge lawnforcamping, enclosed per personUS$3,s/dbandas US$30/45) at thewestern end of town. good meals(Tsh6000). It’sonthemainroad has simple,cleanroomswithhotwater, and s/d/tr Tsh22,000/30,000/40,000) cheaper to stockup in Arusha. Karatu, butifyou’re budget, onatight it’s ofmodest selection suppliesisavailable in all withno-frills roomsforaboutTsh3000. A of and town,allof standard aboutthesame inthecentreare basicguesthouses several In additiontothefollowinglistings,there BUDGET Sleeping &Eating Ngorongoro Safari Resort. net access,andthere’s aninternet caféat and hasanATM. hotels have Several inter- that exchanges cashandtravellers cheques be passing through. mnada Ngorongoro Crater Lodge Ngorongoro Crater Moyo Hill Campsite Moyo Hill LutheranHostel Karatu ELCT There is a post office, and an NBC branch There andanNBC isapostoffice, 027 Ngorongoro WildlifeLodge ) –worthstoppingifyouhappento Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels (www.moyohillcamp.com; camping

Theformergovernment Thislodge –actually TheLutheranHostel

( (www.ccafrica.com; per(www.ccafrica.com; %

A quiet,no-frills

( 027-254 4595/4795, % 027-253 4230; NORTHERN TANZANIA in 225 bandas A cosy place A cosy place (www.craterforest

027-250 4093, 0784- % (

027-253 4364/5, 027-253 4405; % (

A genteel place with spacious, well- place with A genteel This lovely, atmospheric place is set in This lovely, ) ) Plantation Lodge House Ngorongoro Farm Crater Forest Tented Lodge Crater Forest Tented Getting Around Getting Around and guides can be arranged hire Vehicle is done – which Car hire Gate. at Lodoare belonging to staff, cars informally with private – costs vehicles rents as the NCAA no longer in about US$120 per day and is best arranged also a large terrace dining area, a pool backed a pool backed dining area, terrace also a large and views towards Oldeani. by flame trees It’s a fine base for walking, and guides can be farm walks. Other for cultural or arranged possibilities include croquet, volleyball and coffee demonstrations. Getting There & Away several buses are daily between Arusha There departing hours), three (Tsh5000, and Karatu Arusha from the main bus station, with at least one daily (look for Ditto KK and Kulinge 10am) continu- lines – both departing about (about four hours). Gate ing on to Lodoare Coastal line between Arusha and Mwanza Gate, also stops at Lodoare via the Serengeti by 4am. departing Arusha www.plantation-lodge.com; s/d full board from US$193/295; www.plantation-lodge.com; s/d s the with views over verandas grounds, large and a cosy, highland hills, a crackling fireplace 2km and about Karatu It’s west of ambience. main road. the north of 207727; www.africawilderness.com; s/d half board US$198/276; s The rooms Gate. about 5km from Lodoare well-ap- exceptionally spacious, and are are minimalist style, albeit in a rather pointed There’s bathtubs. large have and the suites also a spa and an in-house spa and an also a safari operator gets (www.amazingtanzania.com).The lodge as does reviews, good the cuisine, consistently pro- organic home-grown is made with which the main road north of 5km It’s about duce. and signposted. s/d full -board US$160/250) tentedlodge.com; with 15 safari-style thatch-and-tent 12km setting about farm on a coffee a lovely to walking and the main road, amenable off Lodoare The turn-off is just before relaxing. for the tiny signpost. Hiking, – watch Gate planta- the coffee of cultural walks and tours be arranged. tion can appointed cottages set in expansive green green set cottages appointed in expansive the grounds of a 500-acre coffee plantation coffee a 500-acre the grounds of )

i The Cosy, A low- 027-253 4525; %

( 027-253 4287; www 027-253 4083; www 027-253 4055; www •• Karatu NORTHERN TANZANIA % mid-May–mid-Apr)

( % % ( (

027-253 4488; meals from 027-253 4488; meals from h % (

027-253 4397; www.gibbsfarm.net; per with warm-water showers. showers. warm-water with % (

Good, though crowded, camping ) i bandas Western-style meals with a gourmet meals with Western-style Gibb’s Farm Octagon Safari Lodge & Irish Bar For self-catering, several small are there Bytes Pub & Café Kudu Campsite & Lodge Ngorongoro Camp & Lodge upgraded – set around the gardens. There’s upgraded – set around the gardens. There’s walking and beautiful, well-appointed cot- walking and beautiful, well-appointed and refurbished completely – all recently tages land ambience, a wonderful setting with wide plantations, the nearby coffee good views over person half board US$136-290; has a rustic high- long-standing Gibb’s Farm Irish bar. Cultural walks can be arranged, as Cultural walks can be arranged, Irish bar. Ngorongoro safaris. can comfortable rooms set amidst beautifully comfortable rooms set amidst beautifully gardens, good food and an and lush green www.octagonlodge.com; s/d half board US$124/208) small verandas – plus a restaurant. Cultural a restaurant. – plus small verandas be arranged. activities can stone bungalows – all with fireplaces and and stone bungalows – all with fireplaces .bougainvillealodge.net; s/d/tr US$70/125/150) .bougainvillealodge.net; off the main road west place signposted key with two dozen spacious attached Karatu of MIDRANGE & TOP END MIDRANGE & TOP END Bougainvillea Safari Lodge Mini-Market. supermarkets along the main road, in- along the main road, supermarkets and Karatu cluding Olduvai Supermarket what they once were, but the owners are are but the owners what they once were, slowly rebuilding. Tsh6000) rental can be arranged. can rental a large lawn to pitch your tent, hot-water hot-water your tent, lawn to pitch a large clean, comfortable bungalows and a showers, US$5 to US$8). Vehicle (meals bar-restaurant Kudu, at Karatu’s western end and signposted signposted end and western Kudu, at Karatu’s gardens, the main road, has quiet south of .kuducamp.com; per person US$10, s/d/tr bunga- camping from US$132/176; lows US$105/110/132, d/tr rondavels US$79/128; and area dining a covered with hot showers, rooms, also are There Tsh2000. meals from pricey for what you get. fine, but are which Car the town centre. It’s on the main road in to Ngorongoro costs US$120 plus entry hire fees. crater and .ngorongorocampandlodge.com; camping per person US$7, s/d camping per person .ngorongorocampandlodge.com; bedded bedded the off 1km It’s about can be arranged. Meals and signposted. main road, Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book touch in the centre of Karatu along the main Karatu of in the centre touch Highlandsroad behind the Crater petrol sta- operations from reduced greatly tion. A fire NORTHERN TANZANIA down intothecrater. Allroadsintothe and ing region about two millionyears ago,includ- were atleastthree hominid speciesinthe positedand Ethiopia,ithas been thatthere other ancientfossilsexcavated inKenya Gorge. findings aswell onthese Based about 45kmsouthofLaetoli, theOlduvai the oldestknown–were discovered at old hominid(human-like) footprints– large molars. In 1972,3.75-million-year- means ‘nutcracker man’,referring toits often referred toas‘zinjanthropus’, which Theskullisalsoabout humanevolution. in 1959andgave toaheated debate rise boisei, ape-like skullknownas the1.8million-year-oldOlduvai hasbeen ancestors. earliest the pages of historybacktothedaysof our ancient life, allowingustobeginturning it provides remarkable of documentation over aperiodof almosttwomillionyears, its were laiddowninanorderlysequence which layer uponlayerof volcanicdepos- Thanks toitsuniquegeological history,in continent’s best-knownarchaeological sites. vine thathasbecomeoneof theAfrican (Oldupai) Gorge –adusty,50km-longra- millenniaofthrough history,isOlduvai plains northwestof NgorongoroCrater, and to100mdownintotheSlicing itswayclose GORGE OLDUVAI for ascents and descents. Ngorongoro SopaLodge, which canbeused northeastern edge of thecrater nearthe Lodge. There isathirdaccessroute onthe and leadstotherimnearNgorongoroCrater picnicsite tothesouthofLerai Magadi Lake ascentroad,which nearthe starts the Lerai just westof Magadi. Lake Tocomeout,use which enters thecrater onitswestern side, descentroad,main route inistheSeneto your vehicle canhandletheconditions.The allaregood shape,though sobesure steep, crater have recently been gradedandare in is at NCAA headquarters. intheSerengeti Karatu between andSeronera (US$120 toUS$150perday).Theonlypetrol vehicles inKaratu price forabout thesame advance. You canalso,andmore reliably, rent 226 The mostfamousof thefossilsyielded by only4WDsare allowedIf self-driving, Australopithecus boisei, Homo erectus OTENTNAI • OdviGre TANZANIANORTHERN ••OlduvaiGorge which wasdiscovered by Mary Leakey . While Australopithecus Australopithecus

Homo habilis

ing area. are Standards quite in rudimentary some kopjeswithviewsover thesurround- .html; bookings are essential. led culturalwalkscanbearranged. Advance Maasai- duringthewetseason. wildebeests into theoffbeat,itmakes afinespottowatch isgood,andifyou’rerange, butthesetting comparison withotherplacesinthisprice s/dhalfboardUS$160/220) yika.com; driving/walking. for Guides intothegorge costTsh10,000/20,000 person perdayfee forvisitingthemuseum. to theNCA,there’s anadditionalUS$3per Asseum. fees applying wellasthestandard a guide,whocanbearranged atthemu- to godownintothegorge, accompaniedby picnic area. times It’salsopossibleatcertain off theroadtoSerengeti, andanadjoining ( of Olduvai provide someof theoldestevidence fossils excavated from the upperlayers of man. Otherlesser-known butsignificant into and evolved that it istheorised into absorbed byorevolved ofout (orinthecase boisei the road about halfway between Engarukathe road about halfwaybetween of nearby Kerimasi (2614m),which isjustoff day hike oradayclimb toOlDoinyo Lengai ruins andMaasai culturaltours, offers atwo- sorts here, which, inadditiontotours of the visit more interesting. willprobably findaground archaeology buffs ruins are bestviewedfromtheair,although of Henry Forsbroke’s read more about thesite inthefirst chapter interestedpeople. Those inEngarukacan site wasbuilt bytheSonjo,aBantu-speaking the area today,whileothers suggest thatthe of theIraqw(Mbulu)people,whopopulate some speculate theywere builtbyancestors old. Scientistsare unsure of theruins’origin; ing sites estimated tobeatleast500years irrigation system withterraced stonehous- known foritsextensive ruinsof acomplex near thefootof Empakaai,isasmallvillage Engaruka, ontheeastern edge of theNCA ENGARUKA % The rustic There isasmallandinteresting There’s aCulturalTourismProgrammeof Homo sapiens 027-253 7037; h and 8am-4.30pm) Homo habilis Olduvai Tented Camp

www.ngorongorocrater.org/oldupai in the area. Homo sapiens, here, kilometres several Homo erectus The Eighth Wonder Homo habilis, appeartohave died isnestledamong lonelyplanet.com Homo erectus

ormodern continued (www.tangan museum been . The ),

NORTHERN TANZANIA

227 027-255 3638; 027-255 3638; % (

(camping per person Tsh10,000)

This upmarket place is the place is the This upmarket Ngare Sero Lake Natron Camp Kamakia Campsites Doinyo Lengai, 25km to the south. Because has no outlet, its size varies dramati- the lake year. of time cally depending on the Sleeping & Eating & Eating Sleeping shore and about 60km north of Engaruka. Engaruka. and about 60km north of shore no public transport north of There’s can be arranged hire Engaruka, but vehicle Campsite in Engaruka through Jerusalem The Ngare (about US$120), or in Arusha. Sero Lake transfers Natron Camp provides meals are available, as are guides for walks as are available, meals are mountain climbs. and night stays US$170) the various camp sites newest and nicest of around Lake with eight Natron, comfort- near a situated able and well-designed tents with full and comes complete small stream, meal and bar service. available Guides are and to the nearby waterfalls for walks, hikes Doinyo Lengai. climbing Ol Getting There & Away Lake Natron is accessed via the small out- Sero, lake Ngare on the southwestern post of There are various camp sites – most budget, budget, – most various camp sites are There – all clustered upmarket more and a few lake. the end of around the southwestern the waterfall one near ally two camp sites, near the vil- and one somewhat downriver and are been spruced up recently – have lage places, though facilities are the best budget basic. Swimming is possible, and still quite www.ngare-sero-lodge.com; per person full board per single night US$220, per person full board per night for multi- These long-standing places – there are actu- These are long-standing places – there •• Lake Natron NORTHERN TANZANIA (camping per person (camping per person

Jerusalem Campsite , about 5km west of the main road in , about 5km west of

OL DOINYO LENGAI LENGAI OL DOINYO – ‘Mountain (2878m) northernmostThe Highlands,Lengai Ol Doinyo mountain in the Crater an almost perfect Maasai language – is of God’ in the rising sides with steep volcanic cone peak. Highlands,to a small flat-topped and still active, Crater youngest volcano in the It’s the eruptions major were There a mystery. activity remain aspectsalthough many its geological of the peak, At 2007. major activity eruptions and in late 1993, with the most recent in 1966 and A north in the still-active and growing ash cones vents crater. see hot steam you can clearly a pre-dawn in one long day, with Sero is possible start Ngare from the base village of trek Although morning. as much height as possible in the cool of the essential in order to gain years, the north has exploded in recent scaling Ol Doinyo Lengai the number of climbers set- Before who approach at too close a range. danger to trekkers poses significant crater overview For an of overview at www.mtsu.edu/~fbelton/safety.html. safety the ting off, read and other activity, information on eruptions www.mtsu see updated the mountain, including .edu/~fbelton/lengai.html.

Engaruka is located about 60km north 60km north about Engaruka is located There are several camp sites, including several including camp sites, are There lake also makes a good base for climbing Ol also makes lake ancientness, and can be a rewarding – albeit ancientness, and can be a rewarding The track excursion. hot – off the beaten very mote, with a desolate, otherworldly beauty with a desolate, mote, space and of feeling and an incomparable flamingos that gather here at the end of the at the end of flamingos that gather here rainy season.surrounding country is re- The landscapes along the Kenyan border north- landscapes along the Kenyan Lake Natron, a 60km-long the NCA is east of flocks of known for the huge alkaline lake LAKE NATRON LAKE NATRON sun-scorched amid the parched, Shimmering possible to hike in to Engaruka from the in to Engaruka from the to hike possible will need but you to have Empakaai Crater, the NCAA. a guide from a Tsh5000 per person village fee. Departures Departures fee. village per person a Tsh5000 6am. It’s also by about from Engaruka are about 10am. At the entry post shortly be- about 10am. At the entry post shortly Engaruka, you’ll need to pay reaching fore to five hours from Arusha, and Tsh3000 from Arusha, and Tsh3000 hours to five by from Mto wa Mbu), departing Arusha 10km or so, but becomes rough there after. after. 10km or so, but becomes rough there a daily bus between Arusha and There’s four Engaruka via Mto wa Mbu (Tsh6000, of Mto wa Mbu along an unsealed road, wa Mbu along an unsealed Mto road, of shape for the first is in reasonable which shaded Tsh10,000) one in Engaruka village, and the simple but one in Engaruka village, the tourist information office in Arusha, or or in Arusha, office the tourist information in Engaruka. Campsite at Jerusalem and Lake Natron. Arrange things through through things and Lake Natron. Arrange Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book the Engaruka Juu area. It’s just after the river the river It’s just after the Engaruka Juu area. and near the Engaruka Juu primary school, the ruins. and an easy walk from NORTHERN TANZANIA Ngorongoro tripforanyonelooking for two persons). Staff atKisimaNgeda cantwo persons). Staff decrease ifyou’re inagroup(Tsh60,000 for cluding camping athiscampsite). Prices for Tsh40,000 perperson (Tsh50,000 in- Eyasi BushCamp Momoya atLake through Hadzabe communitiescanbearranged English-speaking guidestovisit nearby pared roadtripfrom Karatu. fortherough something remote anddifferent, andpre- flamingos and pelicans. mix of water birds, includingpopulationsof patch ofenough water remains tosupporta ambience of thearea. usuallyalarge However lending totheratherotherworldly,primeval it isoften littlemore thanaparched bed– depending ontherains,andindryseason villages. neighbouring that attractstraders fromArusha and mnada the lake’s northeastern end,withaweekly camp sites. Themainvillage is systems along theChemchem River nearthe centre, andthere are impressive irrigation The area isTanzania’s mainonion-growing groups.well asMaasai andvariousBantu origin whoarrived about2000years ago,as are theIraqw(Mbulu),apeopleof Cushitic guage spoken inTanzania. Alsointhearea connections toSandawe,theotherclicklan- itshows onlyafewAfrica’s San,although relatedmay bedistantly tothatof Southern Their language ischaracterised byclicksand follow huntingandgatheringtraditions. lived here fornearly10,000years andstill or Tindiga) peoplewhoare tohave believed live theHadzabe (alsoknownasHadzapi south. It’sahot,dryarea, aroundwhich inthethe northandKideroMountains theEyasiEscarpmentin1000m between beautiful Starkly EyasiliesataboutLake LAKE EYASI Serengeti. the continues northwesttoLoliondoandinto ( p55 road). OnceatNatron,therough tothelake, SummitsAfricasafaris contact petrol after Engaruka. Forupmarket bike water, asthere’s nothingenroute, andno should carryextrasuppliesof petroland at theentrancetoNgare Sero. Self-drivers district councilfee toenter thearea, payable for itsguests.There’s aUS$15perperson 228 Eyasi makes arewarding detourona The lake variesconsiderablyinsize itself OTENTNAI • Lk ys TANZANIANORTHERN Eyasi ••Lake (auction/market) Thursday every Ghorofani , at and anotherwell-signposted officein tion where youcatch 4WDstoGhorofani, David’s behind thepetrolsta- Restaurant, There’s abookingoffice inKaratu at place isrunbytheenterprising Momoya. per personplusHadzabevisitTsh50,000) campingperpersonTsh6000,[email protected]; camping all that you’ll need. Facilities are tobring basic,soyouwillneed located about3kmfromthecentralarea). junction, andfollowthesigns(it’scurrently Ask whenyouget tothemainGhorofani discussion of returning totheoriginalsite. nice site there nearby,although wassome recently moved toanothernotquite as cated nearaspringjustoutsideGhorofani – This village-run campsite –previously lo- in Karatu before headingto the lake. basics inGhorofani, butit’sworthstockingup upmarket lodges. Forcampers, youcanget Full boardisincludedinthepricesof both Sleeping &Eating Lodge. Tented guests initsupmarket Tindiga camp,asdoes also arranges English-speakingguidesfor about Tsh5000 perperson. KisimaNgeda site findanon-English-speaking guidefor served by candlelight withthelake by candlelight bed as served rather thanluxury, andthecuisine– is onbush comfortinanaturalenvironment, tented bungalows alongthelake. The emphasis doum palmsinthe background–hassix onthelakein asublimesetting shore with US$205/310) @habari.co.tz; s/dluxurytentedbungalowshalfboard guide). the Tsh20,000 toeach tribe plusTsh20,000 for Datoga (Tsh60,000 forboth,which includes tural walks,andvisitstotheHadzabe and sions isonoffer, includingbirdingandcul- tented bungalows,andarange of excur- Accommodationisineightbush setting. situated about 2kmfromthe lake inarustic ant placeisabout 4km fromGhorofani, and .com; s/dfullboardUS$160/230) notice. advance for rent, andmealscanbearranged with water only); tents are sometimes available Ghorofani Facilities itself. are minimal(cold help those staying attheirbudget staying camphelp those Lake EyasiBushCamp Lake Site Chem Camp Kisima Ngeda Kisima Tindiga Tented Lodge Therecommended KisimaNgeda – (

% Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 027-253 4128,027-2548715;kisima (camping perpersonTsh5000)

(www.tindigatentedlodge

This newandpleas- (Momoya’s Camp;eyasi This no-frills

NORTHERN TANZANIA 229 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Getting There & Away Away There & Getting several transport public daily times There’s two (Tsh4000, and Ghorofani between Karatu you’ll need to the to walk where from hours), drop the driver extra to have or pay camp sites with a lift you can hitch you off. Alternatively, Transport in Karatu the onion trucks. one of the 4WD morning from late around leaves stand the petrol station behind at the west- town. Returning, transport leaves ern end of 3am junction about from the main Ghorofani possible to find or 4am, although often it’s the day. in something later

•• Lake Eyasi NORTHERN TANZANIA

the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’ everyone it. See you know, or resell the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to restricted. we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes In return, © Lonely Planet Publications. To makeis not digitally it easier for you to use, access to this chapter © Lonely Planet Publications. thorns, fever trees and palms. It’s about 7km 7km and palms. It’s about trees thorns, fever and signposted. from Ghorofani surrounded by trees’, and there’s a natural a natural and there’s surrounded by trees’, surrounded by acacia spring on the property, modest tip the guard can arrange hot water. water. hot guard can arrange modest tip the as ‘spring roughly translates Kisima Ngeda on the lake shore – where you can pitch a a can pitch you – where shore on the lake and for a toilet and shower, All have tent. the main lodge area, the same management the same management area, the main lodge (camp- camp sites budget also runs three camping US$5) – the only ing per person a backdrop – is excellent. Nearby is a large is a large Nearby – is excellent. a backdrop sunset climb for hill to Away from views. lonelyplanet.com