© Lonely Planet Publications 180 Northern Tanzania With snow-capped Mt Kilimanjaro, the wildlife-packed Ngorongoro Crater and the vast plains of the Serengeti, northern Tanzania embodies what is for many quintessential Africa. While the main attractions are trekking to the top of Africa and wildlife watching on the northern safari circuit, there’s much more: haunting calls of water birds fill the air at serene Lake Eyasi; beautiful Mt Meru beckons with unforgettable sunrise panoramas from its summit; the bar- ren landscapes of the Crater Highlands offer rugged but satisfying hiking; and lively rural markets draw traders from miles around to haggle over everything from a head of cattle to a kilo of maize. Enjoy delightful highland lodges amid the coffee plantations around Karatu, take in the Rift Valley vistas around Lake Manyara, experience the subtleties of the Tarangire ecosystem or simply take in all the contrasts, as world-class safari lodges jostle for space with mud-thatch houses, and red-cloaked Maasai warriors follow centuries-old traditions while office workers brush by in Western dress. Exploring northern Tanzania is relatively easy. Tourist infrastructure is good, with many accommodation and dining options in major towns. There’s direct air access from Europe and elsewhere in East Africa via Kilimanjaro International Airport (KIA), a major hub. The main caveat is price – the north is Tanzania’s most costly region, especially if you do an organised safari. If you don’t mind roughing things a bit, there are some inexpensive alternatives, including an array of Cultural Tourism Programs ( p204 ). HIGHLIGHTS NORTHERN TANZANIA Waking up to the sounds and rhythms of the Serengeti ( p216 ) Serengeti National Park Descending into the ethereal blue-green Mt Ngorongoro Kilimanjaro vistas of Ngorongoro Crater ( p223 ) Crater Trekking on Mt Kilimanjaro ( p191 ), or Mt Meru Lake Manyara catching the sun’s first rays from Mt National Park Meru’s Rhino Point ( p209 ) Tarangire National Park Watching elephants amid gnarled baobabs in Tarangire National Park ( p214 ) Taking in the stunning Rift Valley vistas around Lake Manyara ( p212 ) lonelyplanet.com 0 100 km NORTHERN TANZANIA 0 60 miles Lake To Musoma To Nairobi (70km) (45km) Victoria ὈὈὈὈὈὈ y Masai Mara NR e Bologonya l Springs & Gate l TANZANIA NORTHERN a Grumeti Ikorongo Lobo Olmesutye V To Ukerewe Bunda GR Kajido (35km) GR Magido ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈGrumeti ὈὈ Speke W River e s t Gulf e r n C t o r r i f d o Lake r Natron i Seronera R K E N Y A Magu Gelai To Mwanza (2941m) Namanga (60km) ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈMaswa SerengetiὈὈὈὅ NP Amboseli Se NP ren Ol Doinyo Kerimasi ge Lengaiὅ t i (2614m) Longido Mt Longido P Olduvai (2878m) Kitumbeini (2629m) l a Lake Gorge i n Ndutu Ngorongoro (2865m) Maswa Conservation A104 GR Area Engaruka Loitokitok West Mt Kilimanjaro Crater Highlands Kilimanjaro NP Lemagurut ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ(3107m) Ngorongoro Monduli ὈὈ Crater (2660m) Sanya Mt Kilimanjaro Arusha Juu NP (5896m) Oldeani Lake Mt Meru Machame (3188m) (4566m) Miwaleni Marangu Mto wa Mbu Monduli Mwadui Karatu Arusha Moshi Mang'ola Lake Holili Himo Manyara E NP Taveta a Kilimanjaro Lake Makuyuni M Eyasi s Lake International To Voi To Shinyanga i n Manyara s (45km) a o t Airport (KIA) (110km) ὈὈὈὈὈὈt ὈὈKwa Kuchinja ὈὈὈὈ n u u e Nyumba M o Mwanga r o n r ya Mungu K i d e n Reservoir Mbulu Lolkisale t Kisangara ὅ ὅὅa Game Controlled A Chini LEGEND Area i Lake n r GR Game Reserve Balangida c NP National Parkὅὅὅὅ Tarangireὅ s Mkomazi Dongobesh A104 Ngahari Zange Gate GR NP 181 NR National Reserve Lake (1570m) Kitangiri To Dodoma To Lushoto (140km); Korogwe (190km); (235km) ὅὅὅὅ GitingὈὈBabati Ὀὅ Tanga (280km); Dar es Salaamὅὅ (490km)ὈὈSame ὅὅὅὅ TANZANIA NORTHERN ὈὈὈὅ ὅὅὈὈ 182 NORTHERN TANZANIA •• Moshi lonelyplanet.com National Parks & Reserves Kicheko.com (Mawenzi Rd; per hr Tsh1000; h9am-8pm) Northern Tanzania’s parks have put this Twiga Communications Cybercafé (Old Moshi Rd; per region on the tourist map, with the famed hr Tsh1000; h8.30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & ‘northern circuit’ taking in the most popu- Sun) Northeast of the Clock Tower roundabout. lar protected areas in the country: Serengeti, Tarangire, Lake Manyara, Arusha and Mt MEDICAL SERVICES & EMERGENCIES Kilimanjaro National Parks and Ngorongoro First Health CRCT Hospital (%027-275 4051; Rindi Conservation Area. Other protected areas in- Lane) Next to Standard Chartered Bank. clude the extended ecosystems of the Serengeti Kilimanjaro Christian Medical Centre (%027-275 and Tarangire National Parks. 4377/8; Sokoine Rd) Generally considered to have the best medical facilities in Moshi; 3km northwest of town off Getting There & Around Kilimanjaro Rd. There are good air connections into Kilimanjaro International Airport (KIA) and MONEY Arusha airport, and to airstrips in Serengeti, Executive Bureau de Change (Boma Rd; h8.30am- Lake Manyara and Tarangire National Parks. 6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat) Cash and travellers cheques. An airstrip is planned soon near Lake Eyasi. Exim Bank (Boma Rd) ATM (Visa, MasterCard, Maestro, The main road is the tarmac highway run- Cirrus). ning from Dar es Salaam via Moshi through to NBC (Clock Tower roundabout) Cash and travellers the Ngorongoro Crater. Heading southwest, cheques; ATM (Visa card). the route is tarmac as far as Kwa Kuchinja, Stanbic Bank (Boma Rd) ATM (Visa, MasterCard, near Tarangire National Park. The bus net- Maestro, Cirrus). work covers almost all directions. Standard Chartered Bank (Rindi Lane) ATM (Visa). MOSHI TELEPHONE %027 EasyCom (Ground fl, Kahawa House, Clock Tower Moshi, which sits at about 850m at the foot roundabout; h7.30am-8.30pm) International dialling of Mt Kilimanjaro, makes an unassuming in- from Tsh200 per minute. troduction to the splendours of the north. It’s Telephone Service (Clock Tower roundabout; h8am- a low-key place with marabou storks perched 6pm) Opposite TTCL. in the trees, an appealing blend of African and TTCL (cnr Boma & Mawenzi Rds) Card phones; near the Asian influences, and a self-sufficient, pros- Clock Tower. perous feel, due in large part to its status as the centre of one of Tanzania’s major coffee- TOURIST INFORMATION growing regions. It’s also the capital of the The Coffee Shop (%027-275 2707; Hill St), Tanzania densely populated Kilimanjaro region and Coffee Lounge (%027-275 1006; Chagga St) and a major educational centre, with one of the the rooftop bar at Kindoroko Hotel (%027-275 highest per-capita concentrations of second- 4054; www.kindorokohotel.com; Mawenzi Rd) are good ary schools in the country. places to meet other travellers. The Coffee Most visitors use Moshi as a starting point Shop sells the Moshi Guide, with useful info for climbing Mt Kilimanjaro, although it’s a for longer-term stays. For listings and info, pleasant enough place in its own right to relax see www.kiliweb.com. NORTHERN TANZANIA for a couple of days. It’s also less expensive than nearby Arusha. TRAVEL AGENCIES For trekking operators, see p54 . Information Emslies (%027-275 2701; [email protected]; Old IMMIGRATION OFFICE Moshi Rd) Airline bookings. Immigration office (Boma Rd; h7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Visa extensions handled while you wait. Sights & Activities Central Moshi is full of activity and atmos- INTERNET ACCESS phere and makes an interesting walk, especially EasyCom (Ground fl, Kahawa House, Clock Tower rounda- the area around the market and Mawenzi Rd, bout; per hr Tsh1000; h7.30am-8.30pm) with its vaguely Asian flavour, Hindu temple, Fahari Cyber Café (Hill St; per hr Tsh1000; h8.30am- mosques and Indian traders. Also fun is catch- 8pm Mon-Sat) Next to the Coffee Shop. ing a glimpse of Kilimanjaro, which hovers lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN TANZANIA •• Moshi 183 0 400 m MOSHI 0 0.2 miles ACB D To Key’s Hotel (400m) INFORMATION KNCU Building & Kahawa Nkomo EasyCom....................................1 C3 Shamba Booking Office........16 D3 Emslies.......................................2 D3 Moshi Expeditions & Uru Ave 1 Executive Bureau de Mountaineering...................17 D4Rd Rd Change..................................3 C3 Mosque...................................18 C4 Sokoine Rd Sokoine Uru Exim Bank..................................4 C3 Shah Tours...............................19 A2 To Kilimanjaro Christian Fahari Cyber Café..................(see 21) Zara Tanzania Adventures........20 C3 Medical Centre (3km); First Health CRCT Hospital.........5 C3 Kilemakyaro Lodge (7km); Kibosho (12km) Immigration Office.....................6 C3 SLEEPING Kicheko com..............................7 C4 A&A Hill St Accommodation....21 C5 Kilim anjaro Kilimanjaro Porter Assistance Bristol Cottages........................22 C4 Rd Project Office.....................(see 27) Buffalo Hotel...........................23 C5 NBC Bank..................................Pare Ave 8 D3 Haria Hotel...............................24 B5 Stanbic Bank..............................9 C3 Horombo Lodge......................25 D3 Marangu Rd Standard Chartered Bank.........10 C4 Kenyatta Court Hotel...............26 A5 To Golden Telephone Service....................11 C4 Kilimanjaro Backpackers Hotel....27 B5 33 Shower Restaurant TTCL.......................................12 C4 Kilimanjaro Crane Hotel...........28 D3 & Camping (1.5km); 2 Twiga Communications Kindoroko Hotel......................29 C5 Keys Mbokomu (4km); Honey Badger Cultural Cybercafé............................13 D3 Leopard Hotel..........................30 B5 Centre (5km); Marangu (40km); Lutheran Umoja Hostel............31 B5 Dar es Salaam