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Home , Arare (food), Japanese noodles, Soba, Water roux

Vol. 32 No. 3 October 2018

Kikkoman’s quarterly intercultural forum for the exchange of ideas on food

THE JAPANESE TABLE 4 CLOSE-UP : Kaitenzushi — Japanese 5 JAPANESE STYLE: Chopsticks for Cooking by Ayao Okumura TASTY TRAVEL: Yokosuka Kaigun Curry includes many different types of noodles, each — with its own history and traditions. In this third installment in 6 our series about the diversity of , we take a look at MORE ABOUT JAPANESE COOKING: soba noodles. Soba, Walnut and Watercress Salad Deep-Fried Stuffed Eggplant with Somen in Tsuyu — 8 KIKKOMAN TODAY: KFI 45th Anniversary and U.S.-Japan Food Distribution Symposium/Wisconsin-U.S.-Japan Economic Development Conference Japanese Noodles Soba

Soba, or buckwheat, originated appearance of soba noodles is who were predominantly wealthy in central Asia and was brought dated 1574, mentioning soba as locals, members of the literati or to Japan sometime between being made at the Joshoji temple, those from the samurai class. The 1500-500 BCE. Rice grown in located in the Kiso district of the second was in tsuji-uri: these were paddies became prevalent in Japan Shinshu region (present-day shanty-like stalls that sold soba following this time, but soba ). By the early wherever people gathered—near continued to be cultivated mainly seventeenth century, soba had been temples, at river or canal docks for food in impoverished rural introduced in Edo (today’s ), and at construction sites. These areas, where rice could not be and there it fl ourished as never stalls were stocked with dishes of grown: poor farmers subsisted on before. One reason was its pre-cooked soba noodles to which soba and sold part of their harvest. proximity to areas where soba was hot broth would be added upon Records dated 722 indicate that grown, which included the greater ordering; the food was then eaten Japan’s emperor ordered soba to be Edo area. Another was that, by the while standing. The third was in cultivated as emergency food when end of the seventeenth century, furi-uri, where peddlers sold soba there was a scanty rice harvest. the population of Edo had risen from portable stands that were to over one million, as samurai cleverly designed to hold drawers Early Soba Dishes and their servants, tradesmen and of pre-cooked soba, hot broth and Soba was originally eaten either as others from throughout the country a portable cook stove. Peddlers a gruel called soba-gayu, made by gathered to build the city and engage carried their stands from one place boiling hulled soba in water, or as in commerce. The majority of these to another, hawking their noodles. thick soba- porridge, made were single men for whom soba Hailed by a customer, they set by fl avoring the gruel with . was prized as a . The down their stall, placed the soba in As well, hulled soba groats were spread of waterwheel mill-ground a bowl and poured hot broth over pounded into fl our with a mortar fl our and the availability of simple it. Customers ate standing up in and pestle; the fl our mixed with hot hand-turned stone mills also this case as well. water was kneaded and made into facilitated the production—and thus soba-gaki. Sobagai- the consumption—of soba noodles. Soba cakes consisted of fl our and water The three basic kinds of soba noodles mixed then baked in the hot ashes Soba Styles that are eaten today developed around of a brazier or open fi replace. Soba noodles were served in the mid-1700s, according to how Soba-gaki and sobagai-mochi were basically three styles during the the fl our was ground. Inaka soba sometimes eaten with miso. (1603-1867): the fi rst (country-style soba) uses soba fl our Records from 1480 suggest was in restaurant-like shops made from hulled soba, where the that a noodle-like form of soba where furnishings and serving pellicle remains attached. This is a fi rst appeared among the Kyoto utensils were carefully selected. dark-colored but highly nutritious aristocracy, but the most defi nitive The noodles were freshly made, soba that was originally sold in shanty record which clearly indicates the cooked and served to patrons shops and by peddlers. Sarashina soba,

2 From left: soba; kamo-namban soba; sarashina soba; cha soba

the highest quality soba, is served at involved mixing miso with water, most popular soba with toppings is soba shops where the fl our is made by boiling it down and straining tempura soba, featuring two refi ning the bran layer from the groats it. During the seventeenth and tempura . and grinding only the very center of eighteenth centuries, it came to The trendsetters of old Edo the white inner part of the kernel. be replaced by made from showed their true spirit in Nami soba (regular soba), the type seasoned with tamari transforming a food once used to most generally served in soba shops, and . From the late stave off starvation into something is made from fl our mixed with the eighteenth century, basic soba sauce urbane and chic. Today, itinerant remaining white inner part (not used began to be made using katsuobushi soba peddlers have disappeared, in sarashina soba) and pellicle parts. dashi as a base with soy sauce and yet countless soba shops remain, Typically, 20 percent wheat fl our is , which produces the sweet and stand-up soba counters can be mixed with 80 percent soba fl our savory fl avor that is familiar today. found in train stations and on street to prevent the noodles from being Then as now, ways of eating corners. All over Japan, one can hear crumbly in nature, as soba fl our does soba vary. Zaru soba is cooked and the sound of people enjoying soba: to not contain gluten. In some instances, chilled, served on a bamboo mat better savor the fragrance and fl avor however, the percentage of wheat called a zaru or a wooden steamer of the soba, it is essential to slurp fl our is increased up to 40 percent, called a seiro. Each mouthful of one’s noodles. and occasionally grated yamato-imo noodles is dipped into a cool savory (mountain yam) is mixed with the sauce. Contemporary variants of soba fl our. Soba made of either 100 zaru soba include kamo-seiro soba percent sarashina fl our or nami fl our accompanied by a warm dipping is referred to as ki soba or jyu-wari sauce containing morsels of kamo soba—which literally means that duck meat. Another is chilled the noodles consist of 100 percent hiyagake soba, served in a large cover soba fl our; such noodles are served bowl to which cool broth is added, Dainihon Bussan-zue (ca. 19th C.) by Utagawa Hiroshige III. This print depicts the process of making freshly made and freshly cooked, and accompanied by tempura or chopped soba in the Shinshu region. Courtesy Waseda are considered “gourmet” soba by long onion and other toppings. Kake University Library connoisseurs. Another variation is soba or atsukake noodles are served Author’s profile cha soba, where ground green is in a hot broth, and tamago-toji soba Ayao Okumura, Ph.D. was born in 1937 in Wakayama Prefecture. A former professor at Kobe added to the fl our for fragrance and is made by cooking a beaten egg Yamate University, Dr. Okumura is a specialist in which imparts a light green color. into the broth. Kamo-namban soba traditional Japanese cuisine. He is currently is served in a broth cooked with part-time professor at Osaka City University Graduate School, lecturing on the establishment Varieties of Soba duck meat and long onion. and structure of Japanese food culture; as owner Until the sixteenth century, basic soba is topped with small scallops, of cooking studio Douraku-tei, he is known for his soba sauce was a liquid made by and hanamaki soba is topped with authentic reproductions of historic Japanese dishes and menus. His various publications include Nippon adding dried bonito a generous helping of toasted and katsuobushi men shokubunka no 1300 nen (“1,300 years of fl akes to taremiso. Taremiso shredded seaweed—but the Japanese noodle food culture,” 2009; revised 2014).

FOOD FORUM October 2018 3 CLOSE-UP JAPAN Traditions and trends in Japanese food culture

Selecting a favorite dish as it passes by on the belt Empty plates pile up in front of diners to be tallied for the bill.

Kaitenzushi

There are two types of The fi nal bill is determined by the restaurants in Japan: the typical color or pattern of individual dishes, sushiya, where customers sit at a Kaitenzushi are each of which denotes a different counter or tables and order sushi price. The values of the empty plates directly from sushi chefs; and economical and are added up, and payment is made kaitenzushi, where sushi dishes family-friendly at a cashier. travel on slow-moving conveyor Because kaitenzushi are belts directly in front of diners economical and family-friendly, seated at a counter or tables—and menus include alternative dishes when they see a dish they like, they rapidly multiplied beyond Osaka and for children and those preferring simply pluck it off the belt. now can be found throughout Japan something besides sushi, such as The kaitenzushi concept and around the world. , , french fries, fried originated in the 1950s and is said In some kaitenzushi, customers chicken and ice cream. Some to be the brainchild of the owner sit not only at the counter, but kaitenzushi provide entertainment of a casual stand-up sushi shop at booths within arm’s reach of like roulette games, which diners play who, short of staff, streamlined the moving belt. Dishes originate based on the number of plates they the serving process by introducing from the kitchen, where staff place consume. Challenging the classic moving conveyor belts—an idea standard sushi dishes on the belt low-budget kaitenzushi restaurants, possibly inspired by brewery and fi ll special orders. Diners may however, are an increasing number production lines. When the very simply wait for a favorite dish to of gourmet kaitenzushi that not fi rst kaitenzushi-only restaurant pass by or order specifi c items from only offer fresh-caught seafood, but opened in 1958 in Osaka, the notion staff or via touch panels. Special also locally sourced “farm-to-table” of displaying tempting, immediately orders appear on the belt displaying products. Today, as both budget and available sushi dishes in motion an “ordered dish” tag for pick-up. gourmet kaitenzushi fl ourish, diners was enthusiastically embraced and Tea powder and hot water taps are faced with ever-more appetizing quickly won popularity. Since that are placed along the counter for sushi options to satisfy both wallet time, kaitenzushi restaurants have customers to make their own tea. and palate. 4 JAPANESE STYLE Perspectives on Japanese cuisine

Chopsticks for Cooking

Chopsticks play an essential role not only during a variety of food preparations, including stirring and meal, but also while cooking and presenting Japanese mixing. Serving chopsticks called manabashi are food. Depending on ingredients and preparation about 18 centimeters long. These have pointy tips methods, chopsticks of varying materials, thicknesses and are made of metal or bamboo, and are used to and lengths are used. Cooking chopsticks are referred place and lay out food such as on serving to as saibashi, the most common of which are made plates. Manabashi made of bamboo are used with of bamboo or wood. Saibashi are normally about lacquerware and other delicate dishes. Chopsticks 30 centimeters long—much longer than chopsticks used when frying, called agebashi, have handles used for eating—in order to keep hands far from designed not to retain heat and metal tips to prevent the cooking flame. Most households use them for a the absorption of oil.

From top: Agebashi, saibashi, manabashi and Mixing eggs with saibashi Frying tempura using agebashi regular chopsticks

TASTY TRAVEL Yokosuka Kaigun Curry

Yokosuka Kaigun (Navy) Curry is a famous local “gourmet dish” from Yokosuka City, Kanagawa Prefecture. The Japanese Navy had been based here since the nineteenth century, and its Yokosuka, Kanagawa forces were served Japanese-style curry. In 1908 an offi cial Naval cooking reference book was published, which included curry recipes. Today the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force is based in Yokosuka, and they serve curry on Fridays. In 1999, Yokosuka popularized this curry to promote and revitalize the city. Offi cial gourmet Yokosuka Kaigun Curry is based on a recipe in the offi cial cooking reference book that calls for curry powder, fl our and beef tallow, instead of ready-made curry roux; it includes beef or chicken, carrots, onions and potatoes, with chutney served on the side. Variations of this curry can be found throughout Yokosuka, as individual restaurants strive to create their own unique signature dish. To be considered offi cial Yokosuka Kaigun Curry, however, the dish must be accompanied by salad and a Yokosuka Kaigun Curry glass of milk to make it nutritionally balanced.

FOOD FORUM October 2018 5 Soba is sometimes eaten with a dipping sauce made with SOBA, WALNUT AND ground walnuts. This soba salad features greens and dried fruit as tasty variations to complement the walnuts. While WATERCRESS SALAD perfect for vegans and vegetarians, if a heartier appetizer is desired, cooked chicken or pork slices may be added.

Break dried soba into halves and cook following package instructions. Drain, rinse with 1 cold water and drain again. 2Sprinkle soba with vegetable oil and mix well. Surigoma Pick off the soft tips of the watercress and set a few aside, along with 3 or 4 rocket Appetizer serves 2-3 3leaves for . The remaining greens will be mixed with the soba and the dressing. 248 kcal Protein 9.3 g Fat 8.0 g (per serving) Coarsely chop 2 or 3 walnuts and set aside for garnish. Finely chop the remaining walnuts. • Dried soba noodles, 120 g / 4 oz. 4 • 1/2-1 t vegetable oil • 2 C of mixed watercress, rocket or Cut the fi gs into small pieces. wild arugula 5 • 12 shelled walnuts, roasted and unsalted • 1-2 dried figs 6Mix the ingredients for the dressing. Dressing • 4 T soymilk Just before serving, place the soba, fi nely chopped walnuts, watercress, rocket and • 1 T Kikkoman Soy Sauce • 1 T surigoma ground white sesame 7optional herbs in a bowl. Spoon all of the dressing into the bowl and mix.

• Dill, Italian parsley or other fresh To serve, place the salad on a serving platter. Sprinkle the coarse-chopped walnut, fi gs herbs, optional 8and other dried fruit* over the salad. Garnish with watercress and rocket. • About a dozen (1 T) dried cranberries or raisins, or both * Use only a modest amount of the dried fruit; more may be added depending on individual taste.

Recipe by Michiko Yamamoto

1 C (U.S. cup) = approx. 240 ml; 1 T = 15 ml; 1 t = 5 ml

6 In this recipe, the cooking liquid acts as the traditional tsuyu DEEP-FRIED STUFFED EGGPLANT sauce for the somen. Since a substantial amount of this liquid is needed to prepare the eggplants, any remaining sauce may WITH SOMEN IN TSUYU be served as tsuyu to accompany extra servings of somen, if desired.

Without removing the stems of the Japanese eggplants, trim loose parts and slit the 1eggplants lengthwise criss-cross into quarters, taking care to keep the four pieces attached to the stem.*

In a bowl, mix the fi lling ingredients and set aside. Dust the inner sides Green onion 2of the eggplants with cornstarch to help the fi lling stick. Fill the insides Serves 4 of the eggplants with the chicken fi lling (see photo). 300 kcal Protein 10.8 g Fat 18.3 g (per person) Tie one end of the somen bundle with cooking twine. Place into a pot of • 4 Japanese eggplants, each 80-100 g / 3-4 oz. 3boiling water and cook as per package instructions. Keep the twine tied to drain and rinse the somen well with running water, and then drain again Filling ( ). • 200 g / 7 oz. minced chicken see photo • 2 T chopped onion • 1 t chopped ginger Preheat oil to 170 °C / 335 °F. Deep-fry the eggplants until the meat turns light • 1/2 t Kikkoman Soy Sauce • 1 t sake 4golden brown. Place on paper towel to remove excess oil.

• Cornstarch • 1 bundle somen, 50 g / 1.8 oz. In a saucepan heat the cooking liquid to warm, and add the deep-fried stuffed • Oil for deep-frying 5eggplants. Cook over medium heat for 4-5 minutes and then remove. Cooking liquid • 300 ml / 1 ¼ C dashi stock Cut the stuffed eggplants in half crosswise. Cut off the tied end of the somen. Place • 3T Kikkoman Soy Sauce 6one eggplant and one quarter of the somen into each of 4 individual serving dishes. Pour • 2 T Kikkoman Manjo Mirin over just enough cooking liquid to cover the bottom of the dish and garnish with chopped • 1 ½ T granulated sugar green onion. • 2 green onions or scallions, chopped

* If the eggplants are large, cut into 1 cm / ½ in. round slices. Lightly dust the inner sides of the sliced eggplant and sandwich the filling between the slices.

Recipe by Kikkoman Corporation FOOD FORUM October 2018 7 KFI 45th Anniversary and U.S.-Japan Food Distribution Symposium/ Wisconsin-U.S.-Japan Economic Development Conference

From left: U.S.-Japan Food Distribution Symposium; Wisconsin-U.S.-Japan Economic Development Conference

Operations at Kikkoman Foods, Economics Institute of Japan, panelists included Mr. Taichi Inc. (KFI; headquartered in and the Wisconsin-U.S.-Japan Sakaiya, Japanese author and Walworth, Wisconsin), Economic Development economic commentator, and The a Kikkoman production base Conference, jointly sponsored by Honorable Scott Walker, Governor in the United States, first KFI, the University of Wisconsin- of Wisconsin. commenced in June 1973. June Milwaukee and the Wisconsin At a press conference held 2018 marked the 45th anniversary Economic Development Corp., prior to the Wisconsin-U.S.-Japan of KFI, and two notable events were held in Fontana, Wisconsin Economic Development were held in commemoration. on June 7 and 8, respectively. Conference, Honorary CEO The U.S.-Japan Food Distribution The theme of the U.S.-Japan and Chairman of Kikkoman Symposium, jointly sponsored by Food Distribution Symposium was Mr. Yuzaburo Mogi announced Kikkoman and the Distribution “Evolving Consumer Behavior that in commemoration of the and Food Retailing Strategy.” 45th anniversary of KFI, the Panel discussion topics included company will make a $600,000 how to comprehend changes in gift to endow scholarship funds market and consumer behaviors to six area high schools near the owing to the rapid development plant. Mr. Mogi stated: “We’re of e-commerce and the expansion delighted to be able to support of new types of business, and deserving students in our local how to react to them. Panelists community as they pursue their comprised corporate managers and dreams of higher education. researchers from the distribution Kikkoman is always looking to industry in Japan and the U.S. the future and striving to set On the following day, the an example as a good corporate Wisconsin-U.S.-Japan Economic citizen. We believe part of our Development Conference explored role is to help prepare the Mr. Yuzaburo Mogi announces a $600,000 the theme “Economic Perspectives leaders of tomorrow by scholarship fund for six Walworth County high schools. for Sustainable Growth.” Its six supporting education.”

FOOD FORUM is a quarterly newsletter published by Kikkoman Corporation, International Operations Division, 2-1-1 Nishi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku, Tokyo 105-8428, Japan / Production: Cosmo Public Relations Corporation / Editor: Marybeth Stock / Proofreader: Eda Sterner Kaneko / Special Advisors: Isao Kumakura, Michiko Yamamoto / Contributor: Ayao Okumura / Art Director: Eiko Nishida / Photo Credits: PIXTA (pp. 2-4) / Yoshitaka Matsumoto (p. 5 top left and top middle, pp. 6-7) / amanaimages (p. 5 top right) / Yokosuka City (p. 5 bottom) / Special Thanks: Yokosuka City / Printing: Otowa Printing ©2018 by Kikkoman Corporation. All rights reserved. Requests to reprint articles or excerpts should be sent to the publisher. www.kikkoman.com

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