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For more detailed information on Japanese government policy and other such matters, see the following home pages. Ministry of Foreign Affairs Website http://www.mofa.go.jp/ Web http://web-japan.org/ JAPANESE Enjoying the old and welcoming the new

Rice The cultivation and consumption of has always played a central role in Japanese food culture. Almost ready for harvesting, this rice field is located near the base of the mountain Iwakisan in Aomori . ©

The rice-centered food and imperial edicts gradually eliminated the evolved following the introduction of wet of almost all flesh of animals and fowl. rice cultivation from more than 2,000 The vegetarian style of known as years ago. The of rice served with shojin ryori was later popularized by the seasonal and fish and other marine sect, and by the 15th century many of the products reached a highly sophisticated form and food ingredients eaten by Japanese today Honzen ryori An example of this in the (1600-1868) and remains had already made their debut, for example, soy formalized , which is the vibrant core of native . In (shoyu), , , and other products served on legged trays called honzen. the century and a half since Japan reopened made from . Around the same time, © to the West, however, Japan has developed an a formal and elaborate incredibly rich and varied food culture that style of cooking includes not only native-Japanese cuisine but developed that was derived also many foreign dishes, some adapted to from the cuisine of the Japanese tastes and some imported more or court aristocracy. Known less unchanged. as honzen ryori, it is one of the three basic styles of Origins Japanese cooking along with chakaiseki ryori (the In the centuries following the introduction cuisine of the ceremony of to Japan in the 6th century, laws ) and ryori.

JAPANESE FOOD CULTURE 1 With an emphasis on the artistic presentation of fresh, seasonal ingredients, the tea meal married the formalities of honzen ryori to the spirit and frugality of Zen. Kaiseki ryori developed in its present form in the early in the mid-19th century, many new cooking Although tables are also available, customers tend to 19th century and is still served at first-class and eating customs were introduced, the sit at the counter where they Japanese known as ryotei and at most important being the eating of . can see the fresh fish and other ingredients traditional Japanese . While retaining Although now considered a Japanese , laid out in the cooled, glass- covered cases. Selections the fresh seasonal ingredients and artful , vegetables, tofu, and other are called out directly to the presentation of earlier styles, kaiseki ingredients cooked at the table in a of nearest sushi . © have fewer rules of etiquette and a more , (sweet ), and —was relaxed atmosphere. Sake is drunk during at first served in “Western-style” restaurants. the meal, and, because the Japanese do not Another popular native dish developed in generally eat rice while drinking sake, rice this period is , deep-fried breaded is served at the end. Appetizers, . Created in the early 20th century (sliced raw fish), suimono (clear ), using Indian powder imported by yakimono (grilled foods), mushimono (steamed way of England, rice (kare- foods), (simmered foods), and raisu) became a very popular dish; it contains Sushi aemono (dressed -like foods) are served vegetables and meat or seafood in a thick Some of the many types of nigirizushi, in which hand- first, followed by , curry sauce that is served over rice. molded portions of vinegared rice are topped with slices (pickles), rice, Japanese sweets, and . Tea of raw fish, , and concludes the meal. Although most Japanese other ingredients. A small The contemporary dab of ( have few opportunities to experience horseradish) is usually placed table between the rice and the full-scale kaiseki , the types and order topping. of foods served in kaiseki ryori are the basis The ingredient choices available at © Kodansha for the contemporary full- Japanese supermarkets and other food stores in all shop Chains of shops like meal. but the most isolated rural of Japan this one sell a variety of The sushi that most people are familiar are so varied that on any given day a home- Japanese box known as bento. The with today—vinegared rice topped or cooked dinner could contain an incredible English name “box ” combined with such items as raw fish and variety of dishes of various national origins. notwithstanding, bento are often eaten for dinner as shellfish—developed in Edo (now ) Even so, native Japanese food is still the norm, well. Many shops are take- in the early 19th century. The sushi of that and a “Japanese meal” at home will generally out only, but some have tables available. period was sold from stalls as a food, have white rice, miso soup, and tsukemono © Kodansha International and those stalls were the precursors of today’s sushi restaurants.

Naturalized imports Japan’s first substantial and direct exposure to the West came with the arrival of European missionaries in the second half of the 16th century. At that time, the combination of Spanish and Portuguese game frying techniques with a Chinese method for cooking vegetables in oil led to the development of , the popular Japanese dish in which seafood and many different types of vegetables are coated with and deep fried. With the reopening of Japan to the West

JAPANESE FOOD CULTURE 2 pickles. The multiple dishes that accompany these three vary widely depending on the region, the season, and family preferences, but candidates include cooked vegetables, tofu, grilled fish, sashimi, and beef, pork, and chicken cooked in a variety of ways. Popular alternatives to native Japanese fare include Chinese-style stir-fried meat and dishes and Korean-style grilled beef Japanese- meal and pork. More adventurous cooks may try their ), and , etc. The main High-class Japanese inns hand at American, French, Italian, and other () generally serve exceptions to the specialization rule are the sumptuous multiple-course ethnic dishes. Selections particularly popular chains of family restaurants, which usually kaiseki-style meals such as the one shown here. with children include , , serve a range of Japanese, Western, and © Fukui prefecture and the curry rice mentioned above. Chinese dishes. While many families continue to eat home- Two types of restaurants which are found cooked meals every night, the greatest change in large numbers all over Japan but which are taking place in eating habits in recent decades not considered “native Japanese” are has been the replacement of home-cooked and restaurants. Ramen restaurants dishes with food prepared outside the home. serve generous helpings of Chinese-style Sushi, Chinese and Japanese dishes, ramen noodles in large bowls with broth and Japanese-style box lunches (bento) have (flavored with soy sauce, miso, , etc.), This pancakelike dish is made with a batter of , eggs, long been available via home delivery (demae) roast-pork slices, and various vegetables water, shredded cabbage, and a variety of other ingredients in towns and cities, and now and many ( sprouts, , etc.), and many such as meat or . other dishes can also be ordered. In addition, people also order gyoza (Chinese dumplings) Shown here is - style okonomiyaki. supermarkets have many prepared foods to accompany their ramen. At yakiniku © such as sushi, tempura, and to restaurants, which are based on Korean- purchase and take home, and the spread style barbeque, guests bite-sized pieces of convenience stores into all but the most of beef, other , and vegetables over a remote areas of Japan has made a wide variety charcoal or gas grill at the table. Most large of pre-cooked bento-type meals available to cities also have a considerable number of almost everyone. other foreign-food restaurants serving French, Ramen Italian, Indian, Chinese, Korean, and other This low-cost Chinese-noodle cuisine, and in Tokyo an almost unlimited dish is extremely popular Dining out throughout Japan and can selection of the world’s food is available. be found in a number of regional varieties. Dehydrated Japan’s most famous contribution to global At the opposite end of the price spectrum and packaged instant ramen, food culture—sushi—is generally eaten at from elegant kaiseki ryotei and French which requires only the addition of water, has sushi restaurants where customers sit at the restaurants are the food stalls that are still become a low-cost favorite worldwide. counter and call out their orders item by item a familiar sight in some urban districts and © Kodansha International to a sushi chef. There are also very popular at and other outside events where chains of “conveyer-belt” sushi restaurants many people gather. Some of the most where you grab of two sushi off popular stalls are those serving (fried the conveyer belt in front of you or call out soba noodles), (grilled chicken pieces a special order if you do not see what you on a ), okonomiyaki ( with want on the belt. Unlike Japanese restaurants vegetables and a variety of other ingredients), abroad, which often serve a range of different frankfurters, and buttered baked potatoes. Yakiniku types of Japanese food, restaurants in Japan When eating yakiniku, which literally translates as “grilled generally specialize in a single type, such meat,” people cook bite-sized Culinary cultural exchange pieces of beef, pork, and other as sushi, tempura, shabushabu (thin slices of meat at the table and then beef cooked at the table by dipping into a As mentioned above, Japan has been dip the cooked pieces in their preferred sauce. broth), sukiyaki, unagi (grilled actively “importing” foreign for more © Miyagi prefecture

JAPANESE FOOD CULTURE 3 than 100 years, but for much of that time there was little movement in the other direction. Over the past couple decades, however, growing recognition of the importance of a healthy to maintaining overall good health has contributed to an unprecedented Japanese-food boom overseas, with explosive Company growth in the number of Japanese restaurants national cuisines. In a separate initiative, The office buildings of large in major cities worldwide. The majority of the Japan External Trade Organization corporations often have a company cafeteria that Japanese restaurants abroad serve sushi, (JETRO) is already providing support for provides a variety of low-cost lunch choices to employees. and most also offer a variety of other choices an organization that inspects and evaluates © Kodansha International such as tempura. The number of restaurants Japanese restaurants in . specializing in lower-cost noodle dishes such To give young French and Japanese chefs as ramen and soba are also growing. Statistics in an opportunity to learn from each other and a 2006 document prepared by Japan’s Ministry to help the French chefs to learn and master of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries (MAFF) the characteristics of Japanese cuisine as it is estimate the number of Japanese restaurants prepared in Japan, since 2005 the Japanese worldwide at over 20,000, with approximately Culinary Academy has held Japanese 10,000 in . The total number Culinary Fellowships in and . Soba Known as zaru soba, the of Japanese restaurants in the United States is While studying in the of first-class cold soba dish shown here is said to have increased by 250 percent in the eaten by first dipping the long Kyoto restaurants, the visiting French chefs noodles into a past 10 years, and the number in the United are also able to experience many food-related to which wasabi (Japanese horseradish) and green Kingdom by 300 percent in the past 5 years. aspects of traditional Japanese culture. are often added. According to the MAFF statistics, less than © Kodansha International 10% of all Japanese restaurant owners in Cooking on TV and in America are of Japanese descent. Many of the Japanese restaurants found in malls and shopping centers across America serve sushi In addition to exporting its cuisine to but their other selections generally resemble the world, Japan has also exported the very stir-fried Chinese food more than genuine popular cooking show . In this Japanese food. program, which ran as a series in Japan from Responding to concerns about the quality 1993 to 1999, chefs from Japan and abroad and authenticity of dishes being marketed challenged the show’s resident “Iron Chefs” Yakizakana abroad as “Japanese,” in late 2006 the MAFF to cooking “battles.” Ryori no tetsujin, as Iron A traditional Japanese began deliberating the possible introduction Chef is known in Japan, was only one in a will often include a serving of yakizakana (fried of a certification system for Japanese long line of food- and cooking-themed shows fish) such as those shown here. restaurants outside Japan. and on Japanese television. There have also been © Miyagi prefecture currently operate such systems for their own a very large number of food- and cooking- themed manga (Japanese comics), and some of those manga have been turned into television series.

Food manga Shown here at left are collections of three of the many manga (Japanese comic) series that feature food and cooking themes. © Kodansha International

JAPANESE FOOD CULTURE 4