ERVERA of Life

Memories of Times past ravelers who come here will always feel fortunate, as they look T out over some of the most beautiful countryside in Spain. These lands are flanked and sheltered by some of the highest mountains of the Cantabrian range, rising to an altitude of 2500 meters. But there are also quiet and sheltered valleys, glacial lakes, deep chasms, mysterious caves, springs and streams, and food and refuge for all forms CERVERA of life. There are sufficient signs-visible to travelers-to show that the area DE ISUERGA was populated in prehistoric times. But the first records of people in P Pallantia date back to just a century before the start of our times: the And Its Parador Roman legions arrived in these lands with more haste than efficiency. The stubborn opposition of the indigenous population (Vacceos to the south and Cantabrians to the north) delayed full occupation for over half a century. The fiercest battles took place next to the site of the Parador, in Herrera de Pisuerga, on Monte Bernorio (next to Aguilar de Campoo), in the Monte Cida area (today Olleros de Pisuerga). There are still remains of some of the encampments. There are also numerous signs of the long Visigoth occupation from the 5th century. And these lands were soon to know the strength of the infidel armies of Tarik and Muza, as well as their civilizing influence. The southern area was largely abandoned (today Tierra de Campos), while the north became the stronghold and nucleus of the reconquest and development, with the help of the Mozarabs who had taken refuge here. This was when the first examples of pre-Romanesque churches were built, many of which can, in part, be seen today. The growth of the church's empire brought about an explosion in Romanesque architecture. The power and prosperity of the monastic orders, under the protection of the monarchy over many years, filled these fields and mountains with an abundance of the best quality Romanesque buildings in all of Europe. And so these lands, apart from being privileged hunting grounds and leisure areas for nobles and monarchs, also became the setting for grueling battles, including sites such as Tamarón (today Támara, near the Parador) where Castile and Leon were finally joined under King Fernando I. This area was also the birthplace of the Marquis of Santillana (in nearby Carrión de los Condes), Jorge Manrique and Alonso Berruguete (both from Paredes de la Nava). After the War of the Communities (1522), Palencia would be converted into the Tribunal of Imperial Justice against the rebels. More than a hundred death sentences were passed during the three months that Emperor Carlos V stayed in the town... There are as many Palencias as travelers can imagine: Around the Parador, nature is harsh and wild, but at the same time impressive and generous. And nearby, at the edge of the mountains, is the humble and peaceful area of La Tierra de Campos that took Emperor Carlos V by surprise on his first visit to CERVERA AND ITS PARADOR 1 the Peninsula. Azorín described it as follows: "We approach the town. We can already see the strong, square, yellow tower of the church and the black roofs of the houses. A deep silence reigns over the plain...In the distance there is a black sanctuary in ruins, among the black and squalid trees that grow out of the rubble of the mud walls... A Viewpoint Over Nature, Art and History T here is no one recipe for visitors to enjoy their stay at this which is said to have medicinal qualities. Only a two-hour walk away Parador. For some, it is a place of refuge and rest. For is the peak of Almonga, taking you up through woods of beech and others, it is a starting point for constant activity, surprises and for yew trees to a spectacular view. observing nature. Some come here from afar looking for adventure in the region's caves. Others come looking for the excellent and The area is a paradise for fossil lovers. Any amateur collector knows abundant fossils. Others prefer to come just to drink in the examples that Spanish fossils are the most valuable, and the specialists claim of pure Romanesque architecture, the richest and most abundant in that those in the Cervera area are unique. Europe. Still others come to eat, to look, and to wander, with no express aim-also a very valid pastime. For those less interested in walking, but still interested in activity, the Parador can suggest a wide variety of sports or outdoor activities, including basketball, indoor football, petanca, bowling games, horseback riding, hiking, hunting, and fishing, as well as many other activities run by guides and specialists: caving, visits to the old mines, etc. There are many places of interest that visitors can find easily in the area with a simple map. Any excursion will be satisfying: La Cueva de la Ermita (The Cave of the Shrine) is very near Cervera. It was excavated out of the rock face and has some interesting tombs. Ruesga is a tiny village next to the reservoir of the same name. It has an artificial beach and eating areas. Pleasant horseback riding routes can be taken from Arbejal to the Requejada Reservoir. Guests can also visit other shrines, such as the one in Rebanal, and wooded areas such as Monte Hueco. Or springs, such as Vallejera, 2 CERVERA AND ITS PARADOR Of Reservoirs and Legends waters: "The irregular flow of the waters of this spring has the gift of predicting the early death of whoever visits it for the first time and his route is as tame or as wild as walkers choose. The finds it dry..." T journey can be made by car, but there are numerous places for parking and embarking on a quest to reach one of the Once visitors have reached the quiet haven of Velilla, they can then surrounding peaks, exercising due precaution and following the return to the Parador for much deserved refreshment, without retracing necessary advice. their steps. The Ruesga Reservoir is very close to the Parador. It was built in Cervera is scarcely 40 kilometers away. Guardo is also very near 1923 and is the oldest and smallest, although perfectly adequate for Velilla. It is an example of a mining community of the past and water sports. At the end of the reservoir is Ventanilla, originally an present, an activity that extends into León and as far as Galicia. inn where cartwrights and farmers bartered wine and other products with the villages of Tierra de Campos. Even today, the area is a refuge To complete the round of visits to tamed waters, visitors can go to the and reserve for numerous and sometimes abundant wild animals: Requejada Reservoir in Arbejal, just north of Cervera. This reservoir deer, weasels, squirrels, mountain cats. There are large populations of is fed straight from the waters of the Pisuerga River. You are almost wild boar and wolves that still venture near the villages. assured of seeing rare aquatic birds during the visit. Beyond Ventanilla, a road branching off to the left leads to San The first and last of the reservoirs is in Aguilar de Campoo (next Martin de los Herreros and Rebanal, and the Fuente to the Parador), containing some fifty million cubic meters of water. Deshondonada spring, source of the Rivera River. Back on the main Apart from supplying energy, it also serves as a holiday resort. with a road, we come to Santibáñez under the Peña Escrita peak and, range of water sports. almost immediately, to the town of La Lastra on the side of the impressive Espiguete peak and beside the no less impressive. Camporredondo Reservoir. Flocks from the Mesta in Extremadura used to reach this far in search of fresh pastures. Vidrieros is very close by. The paved road gives way to an unpaved road, and we soon reach Valle Pineda, where the Carrion River begins to flow. Above is an imposing group of peaks: Lezna (2200m), Horca de Lores (2000m) and the regal Curavacas (2520m). The much-visited Curavacas Lake holds the water from melted snow which flows down from an altitude of 1800 metres. Not far from here lie the Fuentes Carrionas Lakes, where the source of the river can be found. On the way back, we can skirt the Camporredondo Reservoir on our way to the Puente Agudín Reservoir in Cardaño de Arriba. A two-hour walk leads to Las Agujas Lake. The route usually ends in Velilla, where the unique Fuente de la Reana fountain must be visited. The Roman historian Pliny the Elder wrote of the curse of its Along Romanesque Routes T he terror provoked by the fear that the world would end in Whether simply a matter of chance, or because of the roads already the year 1000 may have been responsible for the resurgence carved by flocks of sheep and legions of intrepid warriors...the truth of of religious fervor. There was a political need for a common cause and the matter is that this area boasted a wealth of important roads, banner to face the Sarracen threat... For many reasons, the churches, hospitals and inns. The result is an area with perhaps the Romanesque phenomenon blossomed during the 11th, 12th and 13th greatest number and some of the best examples of Romanesque churches centuries as a mixture of Art, Religion and Politics. in Spain, and probably in Europe. CERVERA AND ITS PARADOR 3 The pilgrim can choose from any of the and Baroque palaces.

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