Clearing the Desk This month you have the honor to join me as we paw through vari- NÜRNBERG ous piles of tattered phone notes, Famed as a center of Nazism and the site of WWII war crimes trials, Nürnberg acknowledg- press releases, emails and unan- es its dark days but also wants us to know of its better times — almost 1,000 years of them. swered letters that inhabit the vast, untamed reaches of my desk. (When ürnberg carries both the part of the former Nazi Party Rally we moved to Oregon in 1998, I burden and pride of history. Grounds, the city opened a Docu- thought a larger desk would reduce For certain generations mentation Center with its perma- the clutter; alas, it has had the oppo- N of Americans, the mention of Nürn- nent exhibit, “Fascination and Ter- site effect.) Separately, these items berg conjures immediate thoughts of ror,” that addresses the causes and aren’t stand-alone stories but per- its role in World War II. It was here consequences of Nazi oppression. haps together they will edify and that the Nazis paraded and That same year, Nürnberg became instruct, if not charm and delight. By Jim celebrated during their six the first city in the world to receive • Let’s begin with a luxury item. Johnson party rallies and passed the UNESCO’s Prize for Human Rights Subscriber Bill Bohnhoff of Santa Fe Nürnberg Laws, setting the stage for Education. has kept me abreast of develop- genocide. And it was here that the But the city doesn’t let its 20th- ments at the Hotel Rote Rose, in the Allies convened the Nürnberg Trials century past eclipse its medieval hills not far from the Zürich Airport. for war crimes and crimes against history. Visitors can still walk along Located in exclusive, very quiet humanity. most of the 5-kilometer (3.5-mile) neighborhood, I first heard of the This period occupies barely two medieval wall, much of which re- hotel in the late 80’s and early 90’s decades of the city’s nearly 1000-year mains intact. Within the Altstadt, via the raves of several readers. history. But, more so than most Ger- visitors encounter churches, patri- None other than guidebook author man cities, Nürnberg has chosen to cian homes and other medieval and former Gemütlichkeit subscriber, remember this short but shameful structures born of Nürnberg’s centu- Karen Brown, called it “the perfect period in its recent past. In 2001, in a Continued on page 3… inn.” So we finally booked one of its five apartments the night before a flight home in 1997. We paid CH An Insider’s Oktoberfest 250. For my taste, it was a bit too cute, too precious and just a little y wife Sharrell and I visit- spouses along with us on a “Grand too expensive. Perhaps the fact that ed our first Oktoberfest in Tour” of Europe. The eight of us had upon arrival we had a devil of a M Munich in 1977 and had an absolutely fabulous time togeth- time raising anybody to give us a so much fun we’ve returned every er. year since. Last September, we cele- room key — plus a skimpy break- That year, we shared our 10- brated our 26th consecutive year fast and an overall lack of profes- person table with locals, tried speak- there. sionalism — dampened my enthusi- ing German, failed miserably at first, asm. As a result I never wrote about By Bob During our first visits, but we all were able to understand it. Now enter Mr. Bohnhoff, a savvy Rann we looked in the various each other. We invited several of our sojourner, who tells of recent refur- beer tents to get a feeling seat mates to join us the following bishments on a grand and amazing of what they were like and at one year, and this has since grown into scale. Expecting no more than a top time I vowed to have a beer (a one an annual tradition. One couple flies grade double room, the Bohnhoffs liter stein) in each tent. Well, there are in from London, two other couples Continued on page 2… fourteen tents, and I can’t drink all live in Munich and are members of a in this issue that much in one day, so we had to music society. Another retired cou- 1 Nürnberg spread it around over several days. ple has been with us since 1988, live 1 Oktoberfest Tips & Advice Ultimately, we settled on the near Ammersee, and take the train 1 Luxury Near Kloten Airport Winzerer Fähndel tent, run by Willi to Munich. I have reserved the same 4 Key Travel Websites and Helga Kreitmair, and have gone corner table in Boxe 31 every year 5 Interview with the Editor back there year after year for the past since. Continued on page 7… 7 Swiss Walking Tip 20 years or so. I started reserving a Exchange rates as of 3/30/04 7 Contacting Tourist Offices table back in 1988 when we decided 1 euro = $1.22 8 Recommended Hotels to take our three kids and their 1 Swiss franc = $.80 http://www.gemut.com April 04 http://www.gemut.com (www.globus.ch) is the best in town secretary and was handed a boarding DEAR SUBSCRIBER and a “must see” according to one pass. When flights landed our group Continued from page 1 longtime subscriber (whose name I of 18 to 20 simply ambled from the were shown to a just-finished, ultra- failed to record). gate to a waiting bus; someone else stylish suite he estimated to be in • Veteran Gemütlichkeit reader, worried about luggage and getting us excess of 1,800 square feet. The huge Nancy Lee Merz, of Holmdel, NJ, from airport to hotel. Arriving in the bathroom has a walk-in shower, a said she and her husband, Norman, hotel lobby we were immediately freestanding tub in the middle of the had the most romantic meal of their handed keys and were able to go room and its own TV with four En- trip in the Weinkeller at the Hotel directly to our rooms where luggage glish-speaking channels, including Theophano in Quedlinburg, Germa- was delivered a few minutes later. Turner Movie Classics. Mr. Bohnhoff ny. But Ms. Merz gives the award for My sole travel responsibility was also describes a plethora of antiques, most gracious hostess to Marianne simply being on board the buses centuries-old door locks and hinges, Koschak-Krebs at the Hotel Krebs in when they left for airports, games or and a common room that features Interlaken, a place long recommend- hotels (there was a printed itinerary). ancient beams, a grand piano and a ed by this publication. As a result I was able to work, read or painstakingly-restored hunting fresco just enjoy the scenery and forego • The Garmischer Hof Hotel in that occupies an entire wall. The such tedious travel chores as check- Garmisch-Partenkirchen gets the Bohnhoffs paid CH 400 but junior ing in to hotels, standing in line for enthusiastic endorsement of Dick suites are CH 250 (about $195). They boarding passes, waiting for luggage, Hickman, a subscriber since 1990 and say that in 30 years of European trav- hauling luggage, standing in line for a frequent GAP visitor. He points el this is the best value they’ve en- rental cars, driving rental cars in an out that the privately-operated (Sei- countered in spacious, upscale ac- unfamiliar cities, and so on. commodations. No, it’s not cheap but wald family) hotel is centrally-located If, in considering your next Euro- consider the neighborhood; the chic in Garmisch (as opposed to neighbor- pean trip, being part of a group of Hotel Widder in the heart of Zürich ing Partenkirchen), only a 10-minute Gemütlichkeit readers and avoiding offers double rooms from CH 635 to walk from the rail station. Meals some of the more tiresome aspects of 780. I bow to Mr. Bohnhoff’s more there, he says, “leave no doubt that up-to-date experience. Check out the there is a master chef in the kitchen.” Continued on page 8… _ RR at www.rote-rose.ch. Double rooms range from 84 to Using Gemütlichkeit _124. • The Bocceri’s of Sacramento • Hotel prices listed are for one night. Discounts are called to tell us of indifferent service, • Gemütlichkeit is about indepen- often available for longer stays. dent, do-it-yourself travel. But every • All hotel prices include breakfast unless otherwise loud banging on their door at 6am, noted. now and then there is the urge to and no access to AT&T Direct phone • Local European telephone area codes carry the “0” service at the Kempinski Airport turn it all over to someone else. In the required for in-country dialing. To phone establish- late 70s and early 80s, when I was ments from outside the country, such as from the USA, Hotel in the Munich Airport. But do not dial the first “0”. when rooms at four-star hotels — the employed by the Golden State War- Marriott, for example — near the riors (director of player personnel) of Logging on to our Website airport can be booked for about $65 the National Basketball Association, I Back issues in text format from January 1993, except for at www.priceline.com, the Kempins- recall how pleasant it was on team the most recent 12, are available free to subscribers only at ki becomes irrelevant. road trips to have someone else at- http://www.gemut.com (click on “Members”). To ac- tend to the details of travel. Arriving cess the issues enter the user name and password pub- • The food store in the basement at the airport to start a trip, I turned lished in this space each month. The new codes are: of Zürich’s Globus department store over my luggage to our trainer/road User Name: zburg Password: 9753

Vol. 18, No. 3 HOTEL RESTAURANT RATING KEY April 2004 Rating Scale Scale Restaurant Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 Food 65% Publishers: RobertRobert H. H.& &Elizabeth Elizabeth S. S. Bestor Bestor Above Average 12 - 15 Service 20% Average 8 - 11 Atmosphere 15% Editor: RobertRobert H. H. Bestor Bestor Adequate 4 - 7 Contributors:Senior Wrtier: Doug Linton, C. Fischer, R. Holliday,Jim Jim Johnson Johnson Unacceptable 0 - 3 WebContributors: Master: Mark Honan,Paul T. Nikki Merschdorf Goth Itoi Consulting Editor: Editor: ThomasThomas P. P. Bestor Bestor Hotel Rating Criteria Value Rating Scale Subscription Dept: Dept: KurtKurt Steffans Steffans People/Service 30% Outstanding Value 17 - 20 Subscriber Travel Travel Services: Services: Andy Andy Bestor, Bestor, Laura Laura RiedelRiedel Location/Setting 15% Very Good Value 12 - 16 Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published 11 times each year by UpCountry Guestrooms 30% Average Value 9 - 11 Publishing, 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521- Public rooms 5% Below Average Value 5 - 8 6722 or 541/488-8462, fax: 541/488-8468, e-mail [email protected]. Web Facilities/Restaurant 20% A Rip-Off 0 - 4 site: www.gemut.com. Subscriptions are $67 per year for 11 issues. While every effort is made to provide correct information in this publication, the Special G Designation publishers can make no guarantees regarding accuracy. By virtue of location, decor, charm, warmth of management, or POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: combination thereof, an especially pleasant establishment. Gemütlichkeit, 288 Ridge Road., Ashland OR 97520 Gemütlichkeit 2 April 04 http://www.gemut.com NÜRNBERG Nürnberg Basics Travel beyond the medieval walls Continued from page 1 Population: 489,000 is just as easy thanks to an extensive Elevation: 284-307 meters (932-1007 feet) and friendly public transit and re- ries of wealth as a mercantile center gional rail systems — complete with Tourist Office: Frauentorgraben 3, D- and Free Imperial City. 90443, Nürnberg, tel./fax: +49/911 23 subways. In Nürnberg, few tourists walk 360, email: tourismus@nuernberg,de,web: The best place to start a walking www.tourismus.nuernberg.de. around with guidebooks and harried, tour is atop the Kaiserburg, the im- confused looks on their faces. Most Driving Distances: perial castle that stands like a crown seem drawn into a different world. Berlin 436km/270 miles over the city. The craggy outcropping Nürnberg is as much about taking in Frankfurt 225 km/140 miles that holds the fortress was known as the atmosphere — the countless foun- Munich 166 km/103 miles the “Nourenberc” — or rocky moun- Regensburg 108 km/67 miles tains, the lively cafes and shaded beer Würzburg 112 km/70 miles tain — and it was here the German gardens, the throngs of shoppers — Major 2004 Events: emperors held court from as early as as it is about sightseeing. It’s not a May 7-8, September 10-11, Old City the 12th century through 1543, making static museum, but rather quite alive. Trempelmarket (largest flea market in Nürnberg as close as medieval Ger- Germany) Rivers bring life and romance to many had to an imperial capital. This May 14-23, Nürnberg Asparagus Market cities, and the Pegnitz is no excep- helped set the stage for centuries of July 2-11, Franconian Wine Festival tion. On its westward flow to the prosperity and drew the attention of July 30-August 1, Gathering of the Bards Regnitz and Rhine, it bisects the Alts- symbol-centric Nazi leaders. November 26-December 24, Christ- tadt and creates a charming land- kindlesmarkt (Christmas Market) While the castle itself could (and scape. Willows wave on the banks, as should) take 2-3 hours’ exploration, the waters lap at knolls of islands. of Germany’s most stunning museums. put off that temptation and first get a There are about a dozen footbridges Indeed, the city’s museums sense of the city’s layout. From Nürn- crossing it with names that strongly (www.museumsgalore.nuremberg.de) berg’s “balcony,” as many call it, at suggest past uses, like the Hang- have teamed to make it a compelling the northernmost point in the city, man’s Bridge and the Meat Bridge destination for travelers of varied look to the steeples and towers that (modeled after the Rialto). interests. Art-lovers could spend fill the panorama. Turrets rise from Nürnberg has been a place of days at the German National Muse- gates atop the city wall, itself ringed trade, merchants and craftspeople for um, the largest art museum in the by dry moats converted to gardens centuries, and Germany’s Industrial German-speaking world. The “New and walking paths. Look at a map to Revolution had its roots here. Today, Museum,” officially known as the get your bearings. It’s easy to spot the it continues as a major service and State Museum for Art and Design, steeples of St. Lorenz and St. Sebal- commercial center. offers extensive and changing collec- dus, the city’s two original parish tions of contemporary art. Train buffs churches, which gave the Altstadt’s While industry has continued to can explore the German Railway two districts their names as early as bring prosperity to the city in recent Museum or the Historic Streetcar the 13th century. The 14th-century decades, thankfully the trappings of Depot, and the Toy Museum appeals Church of Our Lady rises from the industry — factories and modern to adults as well as children. There’s Market Square and faces the impos- office buildings — remain outside the even a Pigeon Museum. Many stay ing baroque towers of the City Hall. city center. This wealth, coupled with open until 8 or 9pm — perfect for Continue your orientation in the pride and foresight, has allowed travelers who want to make the most Nürnberg to rebuild a town center Fembo House City Museum, located of their days. th that was almost completely de- in a 16 -century patrician home, with stroyed in the last year of World War Nürnberg is delightfully easy to a multimedia “time-travel” orienta- II. Most buildings were reconstructed navigate. Logical signage in German tion of the city (earphones offer the following the same style and mea- and English direct visitors along the English version). The short stop here surements of the originals. Even Historic Mile; far longer than a mile, provides a context for the walk ahead. where modern structures have risen, it winds past the important historic For a good sense of life in 16th- old and new seem complementary and cultural sights of the Old Town. century Nürnberg, stop at the Albre- rather than conflicting. Architects Each major “station” along the route cht Dürer House, where the artist took themes, if not the same architec- has a number, and descriptive mark- worked from 1509 to 1528. Tours of tural styles, and integrated old with ers and arrows point visitors to key the well-restored house are offered in new. For example, rather than just attractions. The markers also suggest character by Agnes Dürer, his “wife,” another boxy skyscraper, a glass tow- “detours” to secondary attractions. looking extremely well after nearly er gives the impression of medieval Excellent brochures, with back- 500 years. The tour is in German but turrets. Cartier next to a gingerbread ground information keyed to num- English headsets are available. shop doesn’t look out of place. bers and sights, are available free in The city’s Market Square is an The city’s prosperity has also al- the tourist office and many stores and ongoing celebration from dawn, when lowed it to invest in a vibrant cultural also in printable form online at the farmers set up, until late evening, calendar and to build or expand some www.historische-meile.nuernberg.de. when crowds spill from the bistros Gemütlichkeit 3 April 04 http://www.gemut.com and cafés. Street musicians draw ap- During a visit to Nürnberg, make accommodations. The card, available preciative and enthusiastic audiences. time to visit the Nazi Party Rally at most hotels, offers unlimited use of Life is not the same after you’re heard Grounds, about 20 easy minutes public transportation, free admission Bach played on bagpipes. away by public transit (parking limit- to all museums and most attractions, Nearby, the winding Weissenger- ed). More than five times the size of and additional discounts. the Altstadt and intended to hold bergasse (Tanner’s Lane) is a narrow Lodging alley with one half-timber house after more than a half-million people, it’s a another. The buildings — former monument to megalomania. Despite its strong appeal to travel- artisans’ homes — are original and The Congress Hall, designed to ers, businesspeople are the primary this area is one of the few to survive hold 50,000 spectators but never com- clients of the city’s hotels. This trans- the bombing. It’s also home to some pleted, is the largest remaining monu- lates into generally better rates on of the city’s best bars and bistros, like ment built by the Nazis. The Zeppelin weekends and from June through Zum Hallertor, the Esscobar and The Field and Tribune could hold 160,000. August. For the same reason, rates Druid. This is where, in the famous newsreel are often higher and rooms more difficult to find during the “Messe,” The Hospital Quarter (Spitalvier- scene, American GIs blew up a huge granite swastika. Sites are connected the massive trade shows and confer- tel) provides some of the city’s most ences the city often hosts. Avoid worthy postcard views. The Hospital by the Great Road — two kilometers (1 mile) long and 60 meters (200 feet) those dates by checking the Messe of the Holy Spirit was extended over web site at www.nuernbergmesse.de. the Pegnitz in the 1500s—an architec- wide and paved with granite blocks quarried by 100,000 slave laborers. Nürnberg’s popular Christmas Mar- tural feat for the time and a scenic ket often means top rates and sold- backdrop for the medieval district. It’s in the Congress Hall that the out hotels as well. Although the Craftsmen’s Court- Documentation Center — one of the yard (Handwerkerhof) is a re-creation, most compelling museums this writer Burghotel Stammhaus not a restoration, the shops and nar- has experienced — describes the rise At the Burghotel Stammhaus, co- row streets feel more historic than and fall of the Nazi party and the owner Walter Junker greets even a commercial. It’s a celebration of the consequences on Germany, Europe first-time guest warmly: “Ah yes, crafts and trades that make up so and the world. Visitors enter through we’ve been expecting you. Wel- much of the city’s heritage: tin toy a glass and steel gangway that pierces come!” This Altstadt hostelry is part shop, gingerbread bakery, stained the north wing “like an arrow of a select group of German hotels glass store, candle maker, pottery, through the heart of Nazism,” guides called “Hotels with Heart.” It shows. explain, “a pointed architectural leather goods, goldsmith, doll and Rooms are admittedly small, but statement of the present against the puppet shop and wooden toys. Ab- have comfortable beds and all the sorb the setting while enjoying 8 sau- past.” The bilingual exhibit, “Fascina- standard conveniences (showers, but tion and Terror,” supported by En- sages for Û7 at the “historic” sausage no bathtubs). Even rooms facing the glish-language literature, forces visi- restaurant, Das Bratwurstglöcklein. street are quiet, since there’s little tors to confront the past. The path traffic, and the neighboring buildings through the museum is designed to Key Websites for the Traveler are residential. Some rooms on the disturb, impress and intimidate with • www.gemut.com Gateway site for travelers to off-street side, like 202, have balco- abrupt turns and jarring images. Germanic Europe, including car rental, rail passes, nies and a view to a lush park. hotel bookings, traveler feedback, travel tips and past Affiliated with the Documentation Breakfast is an unexpected delight issues (free access to back issues for subscribers; see Center is Courtroom 600 in Nürn- log-on info on page 2). with waffle cones filled with fresh • www.viamichelin.com The Michelin database of berg’s Palace of Justice, just a subway berries, red peppers wrapped around hotels and restaurants plus great interactive trip stop from the Altstadt. It’s here that herb cheese, and far more choices planning tools. the International Military Tribunal than one would expect at a hotel this • www.travelgearnow.com Guidebooks, maps, travel took place in the years after the war. accessories, luggage, all at 10% off for subscribers. size. In good weather, seating ex- Since the courtroom is still in use tends to a terrace enveloped by grape • www.webflyer.com Informative frequent flyer today, guided tours take place week- forums make this a must for air travelers. vines. Located near the base of the • bahn.hafas.de/bin/query.exe/en German rail. Train ends only from 1-4pm, on the hour. Kaiserburg, the Stammhaus is less schedules throughout Europe, not just Germany. Tours are in German, although a de- than a minute from the center of ac- • www.sbb.ch/index_e.htm Swiss and European rail tailed pamphlet and subtitles to an tivity. schedules. explanatory film are in English. • www.ski-europe.com Top web resource for skiers Contact: Burghotel Stammhaus, Schild- with much data on Alpine resorts. Nürnberg’s tourism web site of- gasse 14, D-90403 Nürnberg, tel +49/ • www.myswitzerland.com Website of Switzerland’s fers extensive English content on his- 911/203040, fax 226503, email national tourist authority. tory, attractions, bus and walking [email protected], web • www.germany-tourism.de Germany’s national tours, lodging, packages, public tran- www.burghotel-stamm.de. Propri- tourist authority. sit and even the city’s gingerbread etors: Walter Junker and Josefine Rück. • www.austria.info/us Austria’s national tourist heritage. A best-buy is the two-day authority. Daily Rates: Singles Û62-72, doubles Nürnberg Card (Û18), available to • http://www.hhog.de Website for an alliance of Û89, suites Û139 those who book at least one night’s historic German cities. Rating: QUALITY 12/20, VALUE 14/20 Gemütlichkeit 4 April 04 http://www.gemut.com Hotel Elch Hotel am Jacobsmarkt First mentioned as a hostelry in This charmer consists of four TRAVEL SURF WATCH n 1342, the Elch retasins much of its nearly adjacent buildings along the Gemütlichkeit “philosophy:” At medieval character even today. It’s narrow Schottengasse near the a time when Gemütlichkeit is adding easy to imagine centuries of guests historic town’s south wall. new subscribers, some may want to walking down from the nearby for- Entry to the main building know more about the publication. tress and entering the half-timber leads to a cheerful reception area. The Travel Insider’s 2003 online facade through the arched doorway. Behind it, hotel guests linger at a interview with editor and publisher Upstairs, they found guestrooms small bar or relax on deep, welcom- Robert Bestor offers insights to the with a somewhat rustic character that ing sofas and loveseats. Upstairs, one newsletter’s strengths and limita- perhaps reminded them of home. has a choice of “modern” or “rustic” tions as well as a philosophy and set Today’s rooms maintain much of guestrooms. The latter — many with of personal preferences that, to a that feeling and blend with the histo- original beams — are fully updated large extent, determine what the ry of the setting. Most have wood- (ask for Number 424) and the modern newsletter chooses to cover — or declines plank floors and ceilings, and those rooms are equally appealing. to. See www.thetravelinsider.info/ 2002/ 1220bobbestor.htm at both ends feature visible half-tim- The best bet, however, is a few ber construction. For the most au- doors down, where the hotel offers While visiting The Travel Insid- thentic chambers, ask for the top two-story, one- and two-bedroom er, be sure to sign up for publisher floor, where many of the original apartments. While the convenience of David Rowell’s weekly newsletter, beams still support the gabled roof. a full kitchen and larger living areas is an always-interesting, often “ripped These simple, comfortable rooms advantageous, the main attraction is from the headlines” mix of travel have modern conveniences, however, the sense of living in your own half- commentary plus reviews of the from updated bathrooms with show- timber home. Apartments are general- latest travel gadgets. Mr. Rowell ers to Internet access. Furniture is ly limited to guests staying four or isn’t bashful about offering his opin- either antique or “antiqued.” more nights, but this requirement is ions, a trait reflected not only in his weekly reports but in his lively and Contact: Hotel Elch, D-90403 Nürn- often waived on weekends and dur- eclectic website, www.thetravelinsider.info. berg, Irrerstrasse 9, tel. +49/911/ ing the summer months. “Residents” Check out his review of Gemütlichkeit. 249/298 0, fax 298 44, have full access to all hotel amenities. n email [email protected], The hotel is in the southwest cor- Farm stays and more: The true web www.hotel-elch.com. ner of the Old Town in a quiet area bargains of European travel are in Daily Rates: Singles Û65, doubles Û85 away from much of the pedestrian vacation rentals. Urlaub auf dem Rating: QUALITY 12/20, VALUE 13/20 action. Still, it’s close to several major Bauernhof is a marketing associa- museums, the Opera House and the tion of German farm and wine prop- Hotel Agneshof subway. From the train station, it’s erties with rooms, apartments and From the outside, the Hotel Ag- about a 10-minute walk. cottages for rent. Rates range from neshof is unremarkable, just another Contact: Hotel am Jacobsmarkt, about 13 euros per person to 80 eu- old building in Nürnberg’s oldest Schottengasse 5, D-90402, Nürnberg, ros per room. Our sampling of half a district. But inside, is a chic, modern tel. +49/911/20 07 0, fax: 20 07 200, dozen or so Bavarian properties indi- hotel with a fresh Mediterranean email:[email protected], cates many comfortable accommoda- flair. Rooms are modern with design- www.hotel-am-jakobsmarkt.de. Pro- tions can be had in the $300 to $400 er themes — sleek lines, geometrical prietor: Wilhelm Hofmann. per week range. See furniture and broad checkerboard Daily Rates: Singles Û81-105, doubles www.farmholidays.de. tiles in the baths. Û Û 103-127, apartments 117-137 n New Munich restaurants: A trio Û Û Most rooms face the peaceful (weekends: singles 65, doubles 91, of new Munich restaurants is re- Û inner courtyard and garden. The best apartments 97) viewed at the website of the English choices, however, face the Agnes- Rating: QUALITY 14/20, VALUE 14/20 language magazine, Munich Found. gasse with balconies that look to the Hotel Deutscher Hof In addition, the site’s archives con- castle (you’ll pay for the view — tain much info of interest to a visitor World War II buffs may find the except on weekends). to the city. Go to: www.munichfound.de/ Deutscher Hof to their liking — at Contact: Hotel Agneshof, Agnes- new.cfm?News_ID=1742 least as a curiosity. It was here that gasse 10, D-90403 Nürnberg, tel: 49/ Hitler stayed with his entourage dur- n Great holidays on a small budget: 911/214440, fax: 21444144, email ag- ing his many visits to Nürnberg. His- Go to www.germany-tourism.de/e/ [email protected], tory books show familiar photos of nsalt_infocenter_kleinepreisemap.html. web www.sorat-hotels.com/agneshof- the dictator saluting from the balcony Click a city on the map to download nuernberg/index.htm. of his second-floor suite, framed by brochure pages with color photos of Daily Rates: Singles Û90-155, doubles swastikas, the street below filled with hotels priced at 40 euros per person Û105-190 (weekends: single Û80, dou- frenzied followers. The hotel does and less. Symbols indicate services ble Û95) nothing to remind guests of the past available and there is full contact Rating: QUALITY 13/20, VALUE 13/20 (a question regarding “Hitler’s room” info including hotel web addresses. Gemütlichkeit 5 April 04 http://www.gemut.com returned a blank smile but no re- Da Gaetano to the usual Sauerbraten and pork sponse). Rooms are bland but spa- Da Gaetano is a great option for shoulder offerings, the restaurant cious with modern amenities. The reasonably priced, fast (but not serves tempting fish and game dishes hotel lies just outside the town walls rushed) dining — especially for trav- including venison with calvados one block from the Opera House and elers who want a break from Rind- cream and cranberries, poached salm- a five-minute walk from the train fleisch and Schnitzel. German cuisine on, and roast duck with red cabbage station. A subway stop is near the is offered, but the focus is Italian spe- and potato dumplings. Leave room front door. cialties like risotto, papardelle with on the credit card for a good bottle Contact: Hotel Deutscher Hof, wild mushrooms, calamari, pizza chosen from the excellent wine card. Frauentorgraben 29, D-90443 Nürn- frutti di mare, gnocchi sorrentino, Entrées range from Û11 to Û21, berg, tel. +49/911/90443. and tagliatelle with mushrooms. but It’s best to call ahead for reserva- Û Daily Rates: Singles Û59-97, doubles Most entrées are in the 7-12 range. tions. Û 74-124 The dining area is one flight up Contact: Nassauer Keller, Karolinen- Rating: QUALITY 11/20, VALUE 11/20 with a view over the Market Square. strasse 2, D-90402 Nürnberg, tel./fax: Food Ask for a table in the oriel window +49/911/225 967 which offers nearly a 180-degree Rating: QUALITY 15/20, VALUE 16/20 Nürnberg’s cuisine is typical for view. The two rooms are warmly Franconia. The Franconian butcher’s decorated with plates, paintings and Lederer Kulturbrauerei platter (Schlachtplatte) offers a tempt- prints from Italy and plenty of plants It’s worth the 5-minute subway ing collection of sliced sausages in- and ivy. Fresh flowers and candles ride (and the nearly 30-minute walk) cluding Blutwurst and Leberwurst. brighten booths and tables. The to dine outside in the sprawling beer Schäufele (roasted pork shoulder) is friendly setting and prompt service garden at the Lederer Kulturbrauerei, usually served with potato dump- makes for relaxed dining. a former brewery with roots in the lings. Krautwickala is a mixture of th Û Contact: Da Gaetano, Hauptmarkt 9, 15 century. Entrées are in the 8-10 ground meat and spices rolled in a D-90403 Nürnberg, +49/911/2276 31 neighborhood and include pork cabbage leaf, then roasted. River fish Rating: QUALITY 14/20, VALUE 15/20 shoulder sold by the 100-gram por- are also popular, especially carp ei- tion, “brewer’s schnitzel” filled with ther fried or poached and served in Kettensteg cheese and ham, “beer wagon gou- horseradish-cream sauce. The Kettensteg, located by the lash,” spare ribs and Nürnberger Hungry travelers will need to bridge of the same name, is a romantic sausages. For Û4-6, snacks include order at least a half-dozen of Nürn- bistro overlooking the Pegnitz. fresh breads, warm pretzels and berg’s roasted sausages — whose size Choose the lower of the restaurant’s meat, sausage and cheese platters. and weight are still governed by two levels for the best views, or sit in Although there’s pleasant indoor strict law. Restaurants celebrate the the beer garden. From there, watch seating, the best spots are outside, pinky-sized treat with a variety of the ducks and listen to the muted rush where it’s self-service. Guests sit at styles including soused in onion of a waterfall. The menu features tra- trestle tables in a wooded park set- stock, atop a salad of fresh asparagus. ditional Franconian fare such as sau- ting. Many play chess or backgam- The most typical is “naked” (nackert) sages and pork shoulder, as well as a mon and make it an afternoon. with onions, salt and pepper or per- variety of pasta dishes. Contact: Lederer Kulturbrauerei, haps a dab of horseradish. Prices are reasonable with main Sielstrasse 12, D-90317 Nürnberg, tel. dishes averaging about Û11. After Heilig Geist Spital +49/911/26 86 65 (one block from dinner, walk across the bridge and Room 600 This historic setting — an expan- look back to the restaurant, where the Rating: QUALITY 12/20, VALUE 13/20 sive medieval hospice built along and candles look like a swarm of fireflies. over the Pegnitz — features fine Two longtime Gemütlichkeit favorites Contact: Kettensteg, Maxplatz 35, D- not visited this trip but which we contin- Franconian cuisine. Start with Fran- 90403 Nürnberg, tel: +49/911/22 10 81. conian wedding soup with liver ue to recommend are... Rating: QUALITY 12/20, VALUE 13/20 dumplings or Old Nürnberg onion Weinhaus Steichele Nassauer Keller soup with Franconian wine added to Simple but pleasant and welcom- th the broth. Continue with roasted This 13 -century stone tower, ing family-run hotel in the very heart pork shoulder, broiled pork hock, built even before the town fortifi- of the old town. Good restaurant. Sauerbraten in gingerbread sauce or cations, is among Nürnberg’s Weinhaus Steichele, Knorrstr 2, D- bratwurst in your choice of styles. oldest houses, and the Nas- 90402, tel. +49/0911/202280, fax Fish and vegetarian dishes are also sauer Keller is one of Germany’s 221914, web www.steichele.de, email available. Entrées average Û10-12. oldest inns. Guests duck through the Contact: Heilig Geist Spital, Spital- narrow entrance and descend the [email protected]. Room prices from Û62-95. gasse 16, D-90403 Nuernberg, tel +49 steep wooden stairway into a richly 0911 221761, fax +49 0911 208655, medieval basement setting. Candles Rating: QUALITY 11/20, VALUE 15/20 [email protected]. flicker against brick walls and ceil- Bratwursthäusle Rating: QUALITY 14/20, VALUE 14/20 ings. History is palpable. In addition In this town bratwurst is a vener- Gemütlichkeit 6 April 04 http://www.gemut.com ated food and this is its temple. first-come, first-served basis. Of Sometimes as many as 10,000 tiny, course, it’s easier to get a seat before Travel Nitty Gritty spicy sausages are served in a day noon on a weekday versus showing here. Though the Bratwursthäusle is up at 6:30pm on a weekend evening. You Can Use touristy, the food is delicious, the ser- We always reserve midweek because n Walking in Switzerland: Every- vice good and prices reasonable. Don’t there are more “locals” at that time where in the country are the yellow miss it. Bratwursthäusle, Rathausplatz and the atmosphere is less chaotic. signs that mark walking and hiking 1, www.bratwurst-haeusle.de. Since September 11, 2001, it doesn’t paths (Wanderweg, chemin pédestre). seem as crowded as in prior years. OKTOBERFEST Typically they display altitude, Continued from page 1 We’ve found that the evenings destination, and often the approxi- generally get pretty rowdy, with the mate time to the destination. Times Heinz Müller’s 17-piece brass younger crowd dancing on the tables, are based on a moderate 4.2 kilome- band occupies the center bandstand spilling beer on one another and ters (2.6 miles) per hour pace on flat in this tent, and since I’ve been a sometimes altercations ensue, but land. Paths in the mountains (Berg- brass player for over 50 years, I ap- everyone seems to have a good time weg, sentier de montagne) have a red preciate the musicians’ ability. anyway. One year, a couple of locals and white tip. Sometimes signs are Whether playing marches that make sitting behind us got into an argu- in canton colors and some areas one want to get up and parade, popu- ment, and one hit the other over the have special hiking paths suitable lar tunes, sing-alongs, or dance mu- head with a beer stein. Security for wheelchairs. sic, this is one fine group. guards took both men outside for a Just in case: the phone number The food was another draw that visit to the first-aid booth and a lec- of the Swiss REGA helicopter res- kept us coming back to this tent, plus ture before bringing them back to sit cue service — the ambulance of the I think Paulaner is the best beer at the again at the table as friends. Alps — is 01/383 11 11. Be pre- Oktoberfest. There is rack after rack A list of the various tents is at pared to tell them exactly where of chickens on huge rotisseries, turn- www.oktoberfest.de/en/home. you are — and to pay. ing themselves a golden brown. Be- n n Movies in Switzerland: German fore cooking, the birds are stuffed Here is a general description of language newspapers use a code to with special herbs and spices that the tents and beer served. Listed by indicate movie soundtrack languag- make them simply delicious. popularity with my comments: • Bräurosl (Hacker-Pschorr), tel. es. The first uppercase letter indi- The mechanics of reserving a table cates the original language followed are pretty simple. Contact the tent’s 089/857 20 29, fax: 089/859 70 56. Nice and typical Munich. by lower case letters which tell the operators in the early spring for fall language(s) of subtitles. Thus E/d/f reservations. For all tents, the require- • Winzerer Fähndl (Paulaner) denotes a film in English with Ger- ments are basically the same: You tel. 089/46 20 22 95, fax 089/45 65 59 man (“d“ for Deutsch) and French must pay for 20 beers and 10 half 49. Where we always go. Great beer, subtitles. In French-speaking areas chickens per table in order to make a great food, great band. Gemütlich look for the letters ‘v.o.’ which sig- reservation. Your reservation begins atmosphere. nify version originale meaning the at 5:00 in the evening, so others may • Fischer Vroni (Augustiner) movie’s soundtrack is in the lan- be sitting at your table if you wait tel. 089/66 10 42, fax 089/65 25 34, guage of the country of origin. So until then to arrive. Some tents will web www.fischer-vroni.de ‘v.o.’ with any Hollywood movie require you to pay in advance and Small but good atmosphere and the means it will be in English. pick up your tokens and tickets when fantastic Steckerlfisch. (Steckerl in the n you arrive. They are sold without Contacting local tourist offices: Bavarian dialect means "little stick" Local and regional tourist offices in “service,” so when you present a and in this dish a stick is inserted our three countries have literally them to your server, you must pay lengthways through the fish, mostly tons of free information that will be the “tip” at that time (about 15% ad- mackerel, so it can be angled over a useful in planning your trip: hotel ditional). Those who don’t like chick- charcoal fire, a technique that allows brochures, restaurant lists, walking en, can use the tickets for other food the fat to run down the stick and not routes, lists of vacation rentals, items. Of course, the tokens are for into the fire.) either regular or “unleaded” (alcohol- maps, etc. The big question is where • Schützen Festhalle (Löwen- free) beer. do you find their mailing address, bräu), email schuetzen-festhalle@t- phone number, fax number or email When you arrive on the day re- online.de. Another smaller tent, peo- address? Answer? In the Michelin quested, there will be a list posted ple are on the benches early here, but Red Guides. Virtually every town inside the tent with your name and it never gets too chaotic. listing in every red guide contains the location of your reserved table. • Augustiner (Augustiner), tel tourist office contact information The tents generally open around s089/ 231 83 266, Fax: 089/ 260 53 79, (unfortunately, there is no guide for 10:30 to 11am, and the bands strike www.augustiner-restaurant.com. An Austria). If you don’t want to spend up around noon. Perhaps 10% to 20% institution and the favorite tent of the the money for the latest guide try of the tables are unreserved and on a real “Münchner.” your local library. Gemütlichkeit 7 April 04 http://www.gemut.com • Hacker-Festhalle (Hacker- fluent German speaker, but a scholar Pschorr). The nice decoration fits well of German history and culture. In We Recommend with a friendly and professional land- addition to his role as our senior writ- This listing of good value, mid-priced lord, Toni Roider. er, he is a near full-time consultant to hotels in popular destination cities is intend- • Hippodrom (Spaten-Franzis- Historic Highlights of Germany ed for fast reference. Additional hotels and kaner-Bräu), email: hippodrom@t- (www.historicgermany.com), a marketing links to hotel websites hotels is in the Ar- online.de. A very bad image until association of 14 German cities. Jim’s chives & Hotel Database sections at some years ago. Sepp Krätz has made contacts with that group assure those www.gemut.com. The required subscriber user name and password for access this it a good place to eat, but not cheap. who join him on his nine-night itiner- ary of a unique, “insiders” travel month is on page 2 herein. Hotels are ar- • Armbrustschützen-Zelt (Paul- experience — one sure to take you ranged in price order, higher to lower. aner). No listings. The tent is good, Berlin behind doors closed to the average Hotel Art Nouveau, Leibnizstr. 59, tel. +49/030/327 7440, fax 327 but the decoration is pretty dreary. tourist. There will be memorable 744 40, email: [email protected] Hotel Domus, Uhlandstrasse 49, Germany D-10719, tel. +49/030/ • Ochsenbraterei (Spaten), tel. dinners in memorable rooms, private 882041, fax 882 0410, email: [email protected] 089/383 873 12, fax 089/383 873 40. wine tastings, and overnights in some Bern www.ochsenbraterei.de/ Roasting of our favorite hotels. Jim’s ground- Hotel Innere Enge, Engestrasse 54, CH-3012, tel. +41/031/309 6111, fax 309 6112, email: [email protected] whole oxen is a good show, but ox only tour starts in Würzburg, October Hotel Kreuz, Zeughausgasse 41, CH-3000, tel. +41/031/329 9595, meat is better elsewhere. 11. For further information, see page fax 329 95 96, email: [email protected] Lausanne • Käfer (Paulaner), tel 089/416 83 four of the advertising insert or email Hostellerie du Débarcardère, 7 chemin du Cret, Saint Sulpice, CH- Jim at [email protected], or me at 102, tel. +41/021/691 5747, fax 691 5079, email: 56, fax: 089/416 82 07, email [email protected] (not in town) [email protected]. Very spe- [email protected], for a detailed itiner- Hotel Agora, Av. du Rond-Point 9, CH-1006, tel. +41/021/617 1211, cial but not typically Oktoberfest. By ary. fax 616 2605, email: [email protected] Lucerne invitation only. • The best winter tour we know Hotel Wilden Mann, Bahnhofstrasse 30, CH-6000 Luzern, tel. +41/ of is Karen Pasold’s Christmas Mar- 041/2101666, fax 2101629, email: [email protected] • Weinzelt (Wine, Sekt,) Hotel Cascada, Bundesplatz 18, CH-6003 Lucerne, tel: +41/041/226 tel. 089/290 705 17, fax: 089/242 438 kets of Imperial Europe. This year, it 80 88, fax 226 80 00, email: [email protected] starts in Prague November 30, then Munich 81, email [email protected]. Pretty Hotel Exquisit, Pettenkoferstr. 3, tel. +49/089/ 551 99 0, fax 551 girls and Paulaner Weissbier. goes to Leipzig, Weimar, Meissen, 99 499, email: [email protected]. Dresden, Kraków, and finishes in Hotel Kraft, Schillerstr. 49, tel. +49/089/594823-24, fax 550 3856, • Löwenbräu-Festhalle (Löwen- Budapest on December 10. The $1975 email: [email protected] bräu). tel. 089/477 67 7, fax 089/470 Rothenburg ob der Tauber per person price includes hotels, Reichs-Küchenmeister, Kirchplatz 8, Rothenburg o.d. Tauber, 58 48, email [email protected]. ground transport, nine breakfasts, Germany D-91541, tel. +49/09861/97 00, fax 97 04 09, email: Full of Aussies, Canadians, Kiwis, [email protected] seven dinners, five lunches, tips, and Americans… Salzburg & Environs a welcome reception. The tour visits Schloss Haunsperg , A-5411 Oberalm bei Hallein, Hammerstrasse • Hofbräuhaus (Hofbräu 32, tel. +43/06245/80662, fax 85680, email: [email protected] the more authentic markets of East- Hotel Struber, Nonntaler Hauptstrasse 35, Austria A-5020 tel. +43/ München), web: www.hb-festzelt.de. ern Europe, and includes a number of 0662/843 728, fax 843 728 8, email: [email protected] Full of Aussies, Canadians, Kiwis, Hotel Jedermann, Rupertgasse 25, Austria A-5020, tel. +43/0662/ guided walking and bus tours. In- 873241-0, fax 873241-9, email: [email protected] Americans… triguing stops along the way include Vienna Schotttenhamel a visit to Oscar Schindler’s factory Hotel Römischer Kaiser, Annagasse 16, A-1010, tel +43/01/512 77 • (Spaten-Fran- 51 0, fax 512 77 51 13, email: [email protected]. ziskaner-Bräu), tel. 089/544 69 310, (Schindler’s List) in Kraków, dinner Altstadt Vienna, Kirchengasse 41, tel. +43/01/526 3399-0, fax 523 fax 089/544 69 319, web with Gypsy music in Budapest at 4901, email: [email protected], web: www.altstadt.at Pension Aviano, Marco-D’Aviano-Gasse 1, tel. +43/01/512 8330, www.schottenhamel.de. Used to be an Nostalgia Etterem and, on the last fax 512 8330 6, email: [email protected] institution, a place of city council and night, a ballet (possibly the Nutcrack- Zürich Hotel Florhof, Florhofgasse 4, Switzerland CH-8001, tel. 41/01/261 meetings of former fraternity mem- er) at the Budapest Opera House. 4470, fax 261 4611, email: [email protected] bers. These days the younger crowd Hotel Arlette, Stampfenbachstrasse 26, Switzerland CH-8001, tel. We endorse this tour mainly be- +41/01/25 20 032, fax 25 20 932, email: [email protected] is more interested in finding a date. cause we know that it bears Ms. Pa- Frankfurt Airport We’ll be back again in 2004. Okto- sold’s personal stamp from start to Steigenberger Esprix Hotel Frankfurt Airport, CargoCity Süd, D- 60549 , tel. +49/069/69 70 99, fax 69 70 94 44, email: frankfurt@esprix- th berfest begins on September 18 , and finish. A longtime Gemütlichkeit sub- hotels.de ends on October 3rd. scriber and an expert on Eastern Eu- Hotel Birkenhof, von-Eiff-Str 37, Hanau-Steinheim, D-63456, tel. +49/06181/648 80, fax 64 88 39, email: [email protected] (25- rope travel, she has chosen every hotel minute drive from airport) DEAR SUBSCRIBER and restaurant following in-person Hotel Dreieich, Frankfurter Str. 49, Langen , D-63225, tel. +49/ Continued from page 2 06103/91 50, fax 52 030 (15-minute drive from airport) visits and careful inspection. As we Munich Airport travel sounds appealing, I can think said last year, this is the “mother” of Kempinski Hotel Airport, Terminalstrasse/Mitte 20, D-85356 Munich, tel. +49/089/9782-0, fax 97822610, [email protected] of no more appropriate tour for our all Christmas market tours. Hotel Hoyacker Hof, Freisinger Landstrasse 9a, D-85748 Garching readers than Insider Bavaria, and no b. München, tel. +49/089/326 9900, fax 320 7243, email: Ms. Pasold will send you a bro- [email protected] better tour leader than our own Jim chure and/or a CD. Contact: Karen Zürich Airport Johnson. The author of this month’s Pasold, Classic Europe, 1 Glenmoor, Mövenpick Zürich Airport, Walter-Mittelholzerstrasse 8, CH- 8152 Glattbrugg, tel. +41/01/808 88 88, fax 808 88 77, email: lead story on Nürnberg — and many Frisco TX 75034, tel. 972-625-6050, fax [email protected] others over the past several years — 972-370-2700, email: Hotel Fly Away, Marktgasse 19, Zürich-Kloten, Switzerland CH- 8302, tel. +41/01/804 4455, fax 804 44 50, email: reservation@hotel- Jim is not only a vastly experienced [email protected]. — RHB flyaway.ch traveler to our three countries and Gemütlichkeit 8 April 04