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The Comparison of Physical Characteristics of Anatolian Native Goat Down Fibers with Cashmere

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The Comparison of Physical Characteristics of Anatolian Native Goat Down Fibers with Cashmere TEKSTİL VE KONFEKSİYON VOL: 29, NO. 1 DOI: 10.32710/tekstilvekonfeksiyon.425888 The Comparison of Physical Characteristics of Anatolian Native Goat Down Fibers With Cashmere Fatma Göktepe1*, Gülçin Canipek1, Mehmet İhsan Soysal2 † 1 Namık Kemal University, Çorlu Engineering Faculty, Department of Textile Engineering, Namık Kemal Mahallesi Kampüs Caddesi No:1 Süleymanpaşa, Tekirdağ, Turkey 2 Namık Kemal University, Agriculture Faculty, Department of Animal Science, Namık Kemal Mahallesi Kampüs Caddesi No:1 Süleymanpaşa, Tekirdağ, Turkey Corresponding Author: Fatma GÖKTEPE, [email protected]. ABSTRACT Very fine and soft down fibers of native goats can have a potential as a valuable raw-material source ARTICLE HISTORY for high-quality products. Therefore, down fibers were collected from native goats raised in different Received: 23.05.2018 regions of Turkey, then their physical properties were analyzed and results were compared with Accepted: 21.12.2018 cashmere fibers. Along with fiber diameter and fiber length, which are the most important parameters regarding spinnability of a textile fiber, fiber scale characteristics of Anatolian native goat down fibers were reported for the first time. In this respect, scale pattern, mean scale density, cuticle scale height, curvature, visual fiber crimp were analyzed as well as fiber tenacity and breaking elongation properties. The economical potential of these fibers in Turkey were also investigated. The findings of this work showed that average fiber fineness changed between 14-19 µm while the single fiber length varied as 33.0–61.0 mm. The mean scale density and cuticle scale height were between 6-7 scales/100 µm and 0.41-0.55 µm, respectively while the visual crimp frequency was 5-6 crimps/cm. On the other KEYWORDS hand, the average tenacity and breaking elongation was above 12 cN/tex and 28%, respectively. These results show that these native goat down fibers, that have been wasted mostly, have very Luxury fibers, rare fibers, similar properties to cashmere fibers with adequate properties for spinnability, hence they have a cashmere, native hair-goat, down fiber potential for high-quality textile products as a substitute for cashmere fiber. 1. INTRODUCTION (2). On the other hand, although cashmere fibers are defined as fibers obtained from cashmere goats mainly from Mainly, there are four main types of fibers obtained from China, Mongolia, Tibet, Afghanistan and Iran, it has also a goats: Outer coat of coarser guard hairs, fine down hairs common use for down fiber finer than 19 µm obtained from (undercoat), mohair fibers and cashgora fibers. The down goat species except Angora and Cashgora goats (3). fibers obtained from cashmere goat, hair goat and other Cashmere first becomes known in Europe during the 17th goat species have two types of fibers except for angora century as cloth woven in the Himalayas and made into goats: Coarse fibers from primary follicules and fine down shawls and stoles. A French company, founded in 1836 by fibers from secondary follicules. The most valuable of these M Audresset pioneered the spinning of finer yarn and wider are down fibers or more specifically cashmere fibers as European appreciation of cashmere as a fiber rather than as even very low blend ratio, e.g. 2.5%, within a fabric can alter shawl developed towards the end of 19th century (4). fabric touch and softness dramatically. Called as “fiber of kings”, cashmere fibers have long been a valuable source Cashmere undercoat fibers are composed of a cortical layer regarding their luxurious softness (1). Cashmere fibers are and epidermis without medulla. These fibers are categorized defined as down fibers or undercoat fibers obtained from as first quality when they are finer than 15.5 µm or second cashmere goats (Capra hircus laniger) indigenous to Asia quality when their fineness is between 15.5-19.0 µm (5). On To cite this article: Göktepe F., Canipek G., Soysal M.İ., 2018, “The Comparison of Physical Characteristics of Anatolian Native Goat Down Fibers With Cashmere” Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 29 (1), pp:11-21. TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 29(1), 2019 11 the other hand, cashmere fiber fineness and quality can also studied but in Adana region this time (9). They reported vary according to the region of the fiber obtained as finest of that fibers get coarser as height above sea level increases; fine cashmere grows on the goats living north of the 40th e.g. mean fiber diameter at Tufanbeyli was 15.0 µm while it parallel in Inner Mongolia (4). China produces the best was 14.1 µm at Karaisalı and 13.8 µm at university research quality as Chinese cashmere is finer having an average farm with a conclusion that these fibers are suitable for diameter of between 12.5 to 16.0 µm, with 15 µm being a textile industry. However, this study showed that there was standard fiber while the length is greater than 32 mm, with a no statistical correlation between fiber fineness and goat measured length of around 46 mm being considered a long age. On the other hand, average down fiber amount per fiber (1). The average fiber fineness is reported as 16.0-18.5 goat was 16.38 g, 21.63 g and 4.5 g at Karaisalı, Tufanbeyli µm for New Zeland and Australian cashmere (6) while it can and at university research farm, respectively. More recently, vary between 16.0 to 19.5 µm for Afghanistan and Iran properties of outercoat-hairs and down fibers were cashmere (2). Finer cashmere fibers are mainly preferred investigated by Kuloğlu in Yozgat region (10). Average for knitted products while coarser ones (17 µm and above) down fiber fineness was reported as 18.43±0.45 µm for are usually used in weaving such as for suiting (7). The males while it was 18.20±0.51 µm for females. In this work, color of cashmere is another important parameter for trade tenacity properties were also investigated but only coarse quality as white fibers are much preferred mainly obtained outercoat fibers were tested, therefore providing no from goats in the Gobi Desert region. On the other hand, the information on down fiber strength. In a similar work, outercoat or guard hairs, made up of the epidermis, cortical Karakuş et al. investigated the phenotypic correlation layer and medulla, are very coarse (average 62 µm) with between physical properties of outercoat fibers and down very irregular in diameter while fiber length is between 38- fibers indicating that as fiber gets coarser, fiber bundle 130 mm (1). Therefore, these outer coat hairs offer limited length was increasing, similar to the wool (11). value for textiles and they are used for mainly tents, sacks Different from the above studies, main fiber characteristics or similar rough products in rural areas. of native hair goat down fibers collected from different parts Hair goats have been farmed in Anatolia for many centuries of the country were analyzed in detail to investigate their as one of the main sources of meat, milk, leather and fiber. potential for textiles for high value-added products. In this These goats have two types of hair fiber: Coarse outercoat respect, 16 different samples, collected from 10 different hairs with fineness ranging between 60–90 µm; and fine farms in south and west Anatolian regions of Turkey, were down-hairs that have fineness between 13-19 µm with evaluated. In the first part of this work, mean fiber diameter down-hair amount in between 40.0-51.4 g per goat, and fiber length ,as well as scale patterns, were analyzed. In significantly lower value compare to the amount of the second part of the work, fiber characteristics were cashmere undercoat fibers per goat (3). For cashmere goat, evaluated further by analyzing cuticle scale height, scale it is typically around 100 g per goat per year while Chinese density, visual crimp frequency, fiber tenacity and breaking cashmere goat yields more fiber than elsewhere in the world elongation values. Then, the obtained results were producing up to 500 g per head per year (4). Fine down-hair compared with available data in the literature regarding fibers shed in spring or early summer time and if they are cashmere fibers and hair goat down fibers. This work not collected by farmers separately, which is the common reports for the first time fiber scale characteristics, such as case in Turkey, a valuable fiber source that can be used as scale pattern, scale density and scale height, as well as a substitute for cashmere fibers have been lost without any fiber curvature and crimp values of Anatolian native goat use. For example, a survey carried out in the South down-hairs and compares with cashmere fiber. Anatolian region of Turkey points out that only 2% of the farmers are collecting these valuable fibers (8). 2. ECONOMICAL POTENTIAL OF GOAT DOWN FIBERS IN TURKEY The numbers of works investigating down fiber properties of native goats in Turkey are very limited. Furthermore, these The hair-goat population in Turkey is over ten million with an works provide few or even no data regarding spinnability or increasing trend since 2009 as shown in Figure 1 use of these fibers in textiles. In one of the most detailed corresponding to over 98% of the overall goat population in studies available in this field, fiber properties of down fibers the country. Available statistics also suggest that 50% of the collected from Antalya region were investigated (3). The hair-goat population has been in Mediterranean and South average fiber diameter was 16.5±0.27 µm and 15.8±0.12 Anatolian regions (12). As the available data is analyzed µm for male and female goats, respectively.
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