Couture Fall 2016 President of Customer Growth Partners
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DAILY EDITION 6 JULY 2016 1 No Fireworks All-Star Cast New York-Bound Business at fashion retailers Calvin Klein is launching Akris will hold its spring and department stores over a digital-led campaign 2017 show during New York the Fourth of July weekend featuring Kate Moss, Margot Fashion Week in September. was a definite fizzle. PAGE 3 Robbie, Bella Hadid, Grace PAGE 13 Coddington and more. PAGE 14 Fashion. Beauty. Business. FASHION Première Class The atelier came to the runway at Chanel’s fall couture show. Karl Lagerfeld paid tribute to the premières and seamstresses who make his designs a reality — presenting them at work onstage at the Grand Palais as his models strode past in looks that included his chic new pantsuit, a lean jacket over wide cropped pants. For more on couture, see pages 4 to 10. Couture Fall 2016 Photograph by Stéphane Feugère Stéphane by Photograph 6 JULY 2016 3 RETAIL semiannual sale appeared more muted after running for nearly a month. Retailers’ Fourth of July Most retailers were “modestly more promotional” TOP 5 year-over-year as they cleared through leftover summer product to make room for fall merchandise, Weekend: No Firecracker Konik added. TRENDING Jan Rogers Kniffen, chief executive officer of the ON WWD.COM ● Retailers for the most part but at least they won’t get crushed on the profitabil- consulting firm that bears his name, said June was didn’t see as much of a traffic ity. We didn’t see that in Q1.” the best month in a long time, and that the Fourth of Amazon is more of a factor than ever, particularly July weekend was a little more promotional than last lift as Memorial Day weekend. with Amazon Prime Day, offering special deals on year, though he added, “The Fourth itself is pretty products and deliveries, coming up July 12. “Retail- unimportant, but despite increased travel this year, BY WWD STAFF ers are fighting for a smaller share of online wallet by the weekend in front of the 4th was good versus getting promotional while Amazon’s share grows,” plan….July is the second smallest retail month of the The Fourth of July was a time to celebrate — but according to Sarah Engel, senior vice president of year, and is almost exclusively promotion goods.” apparently not by shopping for much other than hot global marketing at Dynamic Action, which provides Ebags.com, which specializes in luggage, totes, dogs and hamburgers. retailers with solutions for analyzing millions of data handbags, backpacks and other types of bags, on Retail sources said Tuesday that the industry points. Tuesday extended Fourth of July deals with up to 80 malaise seen all year so far has continued into July. The week ending July 4 showed consumer orders percent off 500 items. Shoppers who took advantage Consumers seem deterred by all the depressing using a promotion were up 38 percent from 2015, could also on Tuesday take 20 percent off one’s news around the world, from Brexit to terrorist and during the week up to the Fourth of July, full entire order with a special code on the order. attacks in Baghdad, Dhaka, Istanbul and Orlando, price units sold were down 9.5 percent, according Some retail workers took to Twitter to post and the incessant political rancor surrounding the to Dynamic Action data. pictures of empty stores and complain that they had U.S. presidential election. That has led to stepped-up “It is the summer of promotions,” Engel said. to work on the holiday instead of going to cookouts. promoting, in part to help clear excess inventories. “We’ll be seeing it straight into back-to-school. Patriotic clothes seemed to be the most popular Tuesday after the holiday weekend, new promotions Unfortunately, it has been the year of promotions items, including a women’s tank top with an Ameri- and extensions of old ones popped up. and today, we’re seeing retailers extending sales can flag print on Amazon.com. Garnet Hill was running a promotion Tuesday an extra day….All retailers are watching to see how Barney New York “had a ton of European for up to 40 percent off swimwear, while Macy’s Amazon is going to tread these waters, and making tourist shoppers, which is always great,” a source Inc. was running a special sale event on dresses, conscious choices” to either promote on Prime Day at the retailer said. According to a spokeswoman, with between 25 and 50 percent off. Aerosoles was with products they don’t expect Amazon to promote bestsellers over the July Fourth weekend included pushing a special that provided an extra 50 percent or deciding to be “a little more systematic” and Valentino’s embellished ankle boots, $1,795; Gianvito off any second pair of sandals. promote at other times. Rossi’s Rikki wedge sandals, $725; Aquazzura’s Wild Talbots has been holding its traditional semi- “It did appear retailers had kicked up promos Thing T-strap sandals, $585; ATM Anthony Thomas annual “red hanger” sale, but added 40-percent- ahead of July Fourth,” said Corinna Freedman of Melillo’s crepe V-neck blouse, $345; Maison Mayle Chanel Couture off-one-sale-item and 50-percent-off-two-or-more- BB&T Capital Markets. “Traffic had slowed from charmeuse slip dress, $395, Sies Marjan’s striped sale-item promotions for the holiday weekend. On the negative headlines of Brexit and was still a little sweater, $890 and Banjanan’s Belinda dress, $325. Fall 2016 Tuesday, following the end of the promotion, the pressured over the weekend. Promotions seemed to A sales associate at J. Press men’s wear store on ● For his fall couture collection discount offered on sales merchandise was upped hold steady during the weekend.” Bleecker Street in Manhattan, who would only give for Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld to as much as 60 percent off the original price of On the other hand, Jefferies’ analyst Randal J. his first name, Robert, said the holiday weekend selected items. More styles were added to the event, Konik said, “We believe retailers wrapped up June did not necessarily goose business. “We had a made news with pants — and by as well as a promotion for selected pants for $19.99 with a solid July Fourth weekend, as the combo pretty slow Sunday, although Friday and Saturday celebrating the seamstresses of that was sent to customers in an e-mail. of weather and promos drove healthy traffic and were pretty successful,” he said. “It was primarily his atelier. “There’s no momentum at all,” one senior retail conversion.” American tourists. We sold the gamut of items. We executive, who requested anonymity, told WWD. Konik said Old Navy saw some of the “strongest don’t really have bestsellers since we’re a lifestyle “We are pretty much on our forecast but there’s a traffic and conversions within the mall,” although aesthetic. The spend by tourists was comparable to ● They Are Wearing: low bar.” sales were “partially aided by compelling price locals. In general, Sunday sales are from locals and Paris Couture Week “From a traffic point of view, things still remained points and promotions.” Konik said the entire store they go out of town.” difficult,” said another top executive from a different was up to 60 percent off, with varying promotions “It was extremely busy yesterday,” said Wendy ● Christian Dior Couture retail chain, who also wanted to remain nameless. “I by category, including T-shirts and tanks that were Miranda of Lee Lee’s Forest women’s fashion store, Fall 2016 don’t think anything has changed. The Fourth of July 50 percent off. He noted that on Saturday, women’s located in the South Street Seaport. “We stayed open was still depressed overall.” tanks were only $2. until almost 11 p.m. on Monday. We usually close at 9 ● Giambattista Valli “It’s not a pretty picture,” said Craig Johnson, Konik said Gap ran a promotion of 40 percent off p.m. It was a good mix of tourists and locals. There’s Couture Fall 2016 president of Customer Growth Partners. “Overall, the entire purchase and featured select “semiannual always tourists here constantly.” Asked about business was soft, particularly for apparel and home sale items” for $19.99, or up to 50 percent off. A year bestsellers, she said, “It was just so hectic you didn’t ● Giorgio Armani Privé soft lines. Memorial Day weekend was good but ago, the markdown was 35 percent off the entire have a chance to stop and think. We sold a lot of July Couture Fall 2016 very promotion-induced.” Right after Memorial Day, purchase and 50 percent off for cardholders. He also Fourth-themed stuff in red, white and blue. We were the slow pace of retailing resumed, Johnson noted, said, “We sense that the brand is seeing pressure in all wearing red, white and blue clothing, flag scarves and Fourth of July weekend was not a repeat of the its basic T-shirt collection. [T-shirts] were marked and hats. It was very patriotic. We sold a lot of jew- uptick seen Memorial Day weekend. down to $7.99 from original prices of $26.95.” elry. The rest of the weekend was good because the Johnson did see a few bright notes. “The off-price At Banana Republic, Konik said the chain was weather was nice.” Global Stock Tracker sector was really quite strong — T.J. Maxx, Ross offering 40 percent off regular-priced product and William Okpo, a ready-to-wear store also in the As of close July 5, 2016 Stores and Burlington Coat Factory.” an extra 60 percent off sale merchandise, up from Seaport, was “very crowded,” a sales assistant said.