Photograph by Stéphane Feugère Première Class FASHION For more oncouture, see pages 4to10. jacket chicnew alean past inlooksthat pantsuit, includedhis over widecropped pants. seamstresses who —presenting make areality themat designs work his onstage modelsstrode at theGrand ashis Palais The atelier to therunway came at Chanel’s couture fall show. Karl Lagerfeld paidtribute to thepremières and Fashion. Beauty. Business. DAILY EDITION6JULY 2016

was adefinite fizzle. the Fourth ofJuly weekend storesand department over atBusiness fashionretailers No Fireworks PAGE 3 PAGE 14 andmore.Coddington Robbie, Hadid, Bella Grace featuring Kate Moss, Margot campaign a digital-led launchingCalvin Kleinis All-Star Cast PAGE 13 Fashion Week inSeptember. 2017 show New during York spring willholdits Akris New York-Bound Couture 2016 Fall 1

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RETAIL semiannual sale appeared more muted after running for nearly a month. Retailers’ Fourth of July Most retailers were “modestly more promotional” TOP 5 year-over-year as they cleared through leftover summer product to make room for fall merchandise, Weekend: No Firecracker Konik added. TRENDING Jan Rogers Kniffen, chief executive officer of the ON WWD.COM ● Retailers for the most part but at least they won’t get crushed on the profitabil- consulting firm that bears his name, said June was didn’t see as much of a traffic ity. We didn’t see that in Q1.” the best month in a long time, and that the Fourth of Amazon is more of a factor than ever, particularly July weekend was a little more promotional than last lift as Memorial Day weekend. with Amazon Prime Day, offering special deals on year, though he added, “The Fourth itself is pretty products and deliveries, coming up July 12. “Retail- unimportant, but despite increased travel this year, BY WWD STAFF ers are fighting for a smaller share of online wallet by the weekend in front of the 4th was good versus getting promotional while Amazon’s share grows,” plan….July is the second smallest retail month of the The Fourth of July was a time to celebrate — but according to Sarah Engel, senior vice president of year, and is almost exclusively promotion goods.” apparently not by shopping for much other than hot global marketing at Dynamic Action, which provides Ebags.com, which specializes in luggage, totes, dogs and hamburgers. retailers with solutions for analyzing millions of data handbags, backpacks and other types of bags, on Retail sources said Tuesday that the industry points. Tuesday extended Fourth of July deals with up to 80 malaise seen all year so far has continued into July. The week ending July 4 showed consumer orders percent off 500 items. Shoppers who took advantage Consumers seem deterred by all the depressing using a promotion were up 38 percent from 2015, could also on Tuesday take 20 percent off one’s news around the world, from Brexit to terrorist and during the week up to the Fourth of July, full entire order with a special code on the order. attacks in Baghdad, Dhaka, Istanbul and Orlando, price units sold were down 9.5 percent, according Some retail workers took to Twitter to post and the incessant political rancor surrounding the to Dynamic Action data. pictures of empty stores and complain that they had U.S. presidential election. That has led to stepped-up “It is the summer of promotions,” Engel said. to work on the holiday instead of going to cookouts. promoting, in part to help clear excess inventories. “We’ll be seeing it straight into back-to-school. Patriotic clothes seemed to be the most popular Tuesday after the holiday weekend, new promotions Unfortunately, it has been the year of promotions items, including a women’s tank top with an Ameri- and extensions of old ones popped up. and today, we’re seeing retailers extending sales can flag print on Amazon.com. Garnet Hill was running a promotion Tuesday an extra day….All retailers are watching to see how Barney New York “had a ton of European for up to 40 percent off swimwear, while Macy’s Amazon is going to tread these waters, and making tourist shoppers, which is always great,” a source Inc. was running a special sale event on dresses, conscious choices” to either promote on Prime Day at the retailer said. According to a spokeswoman, with between 25 and 50 percent off. Aerosoles was with products they don’t expect Amazon to promote bestsellers over the July Fourth weekend included pushing a special that provided an extra 50 percent or deciding to be “a little more systematic” and Valentino’s embellished ankle boots, $1,795; Gianvito off any second pair of sandals. promote at other times. Rossi’s Rikki wedge sandals, $725; Aquazzura’s Wild Talbots has been holding its traditional semi- “It did appear retailers had kicked up promos Thing T-strap sandals, $585; ATM Anthony Thomas annual “red hanger” sale, but added 40-percent- ahead of July Fourth,” said Corinna Freedman of Melillo’s crepe V-neck blouse, $345; Maison Mayle Chanel Couture off-one-sale-item and 50-percent-off-two-or-more- BB&T Capital Markets. “Traffic had slowed from charmeuse slip dress, $395, Sies Marjan’s striped sale-item promotions for the holiday weekend. On the negative headlines of Brexit and was still a little sweater, $890 and Banjanan’s Belinda dress, $325. Fall 2016 Tuesday, following the end of the promotion, the pressured over the weekend. Promotions seemed to A sales associate at J. Press men’s wear store on ● For his fall couture collection discount offered on sales merchandise was upped hold steady during the weekend.” Bleecker Street in Manhattan, who would only give for Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld to as much as 60 percent off the original price of On the other hand, Jefferies’ analyst Randal J. his first name, Robert, said the holiday weekend selected items. More styles were added to the event, Konik said, “We believe retailers wrapped up June did not necessarily goose business. “We had a made news with pants — and by as well as a promotion for selected pants for $19.99 with a solid July Fourth weekend, as the combo pretty slow Sunday, although Friday and Saturday celebrating the seamstresses of that was sent to customers in an e-mail. of weather and promos drove healthy traffic and were pretty successful,” he said. “It was primarily his atelier. “There’s no momentum at all,” one senior retail conversion.” American tourists. We sold the gamut of items. We executive, who requested anonymity, told WWD. Konik said Old Navy saw some of the “strongest don’t really have bestsellers since we’re a lifestyle “We are pretty much on our forecast but there’s a traffic and conversions within the mall,” although aesthetic. The spend by tourists was comparable to ● They Are Wearing: low bar.” sales were “partially aided by compelling price locals. In general, Sunday sales are from locals and Paris Couture Week “From a traffic point of view, things still remained points and promotions.” Konik said the entire store they go out of town.” difficult,” said another top executive from a different was up to 60 percent off, with varying promotions “It was extremely busy yesterday,” said Wendy ● Christian Dior Couture retail chain, who also wanted to remain nameless. “I by category, including T-shirts and tanks that were Miranda of Lee Lee’s Forest women’s fashion store, Fall 2016 don’t think anything has changed. The Fourth of July 50 percent off. He noted that on Saturday, women’s located in the South Street Seaport. “We stayed open was still depressed overall.” tanks were only $2. until almost 11 p.m. on Monday. We usually close at 9 ● Giambattista Valli “It’s not a pretty picture,” said Craig Johnson, Konik said Gap ran a promotion of 40 percent off p.m. It was a good mix of tourists and locals. There’s Couture Fall 2016 president of Customer Growth Partners. “Overall, the entire purchase and featured select “semiannual always tourists here constantly.” Asked about business was soft, particularly for apparel and home sale items” for $19.99, or up to 50 percent off. A year bestsellers, she said, “It was just so hectic you didn’t ● Giorgio Armani Privé soft lines. Memorial Day weekend was good but ago, the markdown was 35 percent off the entire have a chance to stop and think. We sold a lot of July Couture Fall 2016 very promotion-induced.” Right after Memorial Day, purchase and 50 percent off for cardholders. He also Fourth-themed stuff in red, white and blue. We were the slow pace of retailing resumed, Johnson noted, said, “We sense that the brand is seeing pressure in all wearing red, white and blue clothing, flag scarves and Fourth of July weekend was not a repeat of the its basic T-shirt collection. [T-shirts] were marked and hats. It was very patriotic. We sold a lot of jew- uptick seen Memorial Day weekend. down to $7.99 from original prices of $26.95.” elry. The rest of the weekend was good because the Johnson did see a few bright notes. “The off-price At Banana Republic, Konik said the chain was weather was nice.” Global Stock Tracker sector was really quite strong — T.J. Maxx, Ross offering 40 percent off regular-priced product and William Okpo, a ready-to-wear store also in the As of close July 5, 2016 Stores and Burlington Coat Factory.” an extra 60 percent off sale merchandise, up from Seaport, was “very crowded,” a sales assistant said. In addition, “The retailers, especially apparel the 30 percent off all regular-priced goods and an “Specifically yesterday. We had a lot of people com- ADVANCERS retailers, are reacting to the weakness by keeping extra 50 percent off sale items last year. ing in throughout the weekend, but we did get a little Luen Thai Holdings Ltd. inventories very thin. That will hurt sales somewhat, He also said reaction to the Victoria’s Secret more business yesterday.” +14.55% Shiseido Co. Ltd. +2.76% FASHION Unilever plc +2.43% Prada to Launch on Net-a-porter, Mr Porter Kose Corp. +2.34% ● The women’s collection will as Prada is one of the last luxury brands to resist Prada as one of the team’s favorite collections for Li Ning Co. Ltd. launch online on Net-a-porter. selling online. fall alongside Balenciaga, Gucci, Chloé, Miu Miu +2.32% com on July 15, followed by the “Prada is the ultimate brand every store wants and Saint Laurent. Prada was also one of Net’s to sell, but only few can, and we’re honored to be highest spends for the season. DECLINERS men’s launch on Sept. 6. one of them,” said Federico Marchetti, chief exec- “The show ticked every box across every differ- BY NATALIE THEODOSI utive officer of Yoox Net-a-porter Group. “It opens ent category. It had that pioneering spirit, but it’s Iconix Brand Group Inc. a whole new online chapter for both groups.” also going to sell,” said Rutson. She also pointed to -7.43% Net-a-porter has certainly been successful lasso- the brand’s new messenger bags as a key new style Fossil Group Inc. LONDON — Prada is finally taking the leap into ing the brands most resistant to digital sales: Last of the season’s handbag offer. -6.69% online selling in Europe, starting with Net-a-porter year, it secured an online exclusive with Chanel, As of Sept. 6, Mr Porter will also be stocking and Mytheresa.com. building a digital shop-in-shop for a capsule collec- Prada, launching pieces ranging from tailoring, to Sears Holdings Corp. On July 15, Net-a-porter will launch its edit of tion of fine jewelry called Coco Crush. sportswear, footwear and accessories. -6.55% Prada’s pre-fall and fall runway pieces as well as Alison Loehnis, Net-a-porter’s president, called “We want to bring the complete world of Prada Ascena Retail Group Inc. bags, shoes and small leather goods. The Net-a- the Prada launch a milestone for the company and men’s wear to Mr Porter. Prada holds a unique -6.48% porter introduction will take place the same day said she aims to establish a long-term partnership place in the world of men’s wear, with count- Yoox Net-a-porter Group Mytheresa.com, part of Neiman Marcus Group, with the Italian label. less classic pieces…as well as always producing -6.41% unveils Prada’s fall ready-to-wear collection on its During a presentation of Net-a-porter’s fall key inspiring seasonal runway collections,” said Toby online store. The launches have been long-awaited buys, buying director Sarah Rutson highlighted Bateman, managing director of Mr Porter. Photograph by Stéphane Feugère Stéphane by Photograph 4 6 JULY 2016

Couture Fall 2016

Chanel Stockman dress form for a client (the lady — not a It played as something of a valedictory. Karl sample size). Lagerfeld, fashion’s most storied purveyor of “People like the idea that they could see the luxe, wearable chic and genius pioneer of the show for once,” Lagerfeld said during a preview. fashion show as global marketing jackpot, took “Plus, I thought it was a modern idea that they the occasion of his fall couture collection to should participate, so that people pay attention to celebrate the people who make it happen — the them because the craftsmanship is so unbeliev- atelier. So, for his set, no magical undersea world able. I think they should be shown, too.” Couture nor garden of giant, mechanical paper plants. While most never get to see the work they’ve No Chanel brasserie nor hedonistically stocked created in the context of the fashion show, they supermarket. Instead, Lagerfeld commissioned kept working as the audience filed in and even as the temporary transfer of Chanel’s couture atelier the models filed past. The collection was exactly to the Grand Palais. There, around the perimeter what couture should be — part forward-motion of the circle beneath the glorious dome, Chanel’s fashion, part sure-fire client favorites, beautifully premières and 78 seamstresses toiled at blond- rendered. The overarching unifier: a strong, clean wood work stations. They sewed, they measured, shoulder line created by the genius artisans of Fall 2016 they outlined, they ironed. One woman prepared a CONTINUED ON PG. 5 Feugère Stéphane by Photograph 6 JULY 2016 5

ies, their shine tempered by feathers and matte materials. Of course, sometimes a woman wants Couture Fall 2016 to dazzle. Elaborate garnet- or emerald-hued CONTINUED FROM PAGE 4 crystal embroideries on white dresses will light up the night. As is typical, Lagerfeld held two shows. When the ateliers, sometimes with a single sharp angle, taking his end-of-show runway lap at the end of sometimes with a mitered corner but no padding. the first (he’s never embraced the wave-and-run The big fashion news: pants — actually, jump- school of acknowledging his guests), Lagerfeld suits — cut lean through the body and widening stopped at the station of tailleur première Mme. through the leg to the cropped hem in a precision Josette, chatted for a moment and then beckoned A-shape, under lean, longish jackets. It’s the new, her to take the runway walk with him. After the ultra-alluring Chanel suit. second show, he insisted that all of the premières Another theme: Cutaway jackets and dresses. — Mmes. Cécile, Jacqueline and Olivia in addition Sometimes the length variant was created by a to Josette — also take the stroll. A rare heart-on- slight, backward-tilting ellipsis, revealing a hint of the-sleeve moment, and a reminder that couture skirt in front; at others, a tunic descending into a is about more than a rich woman in a six-figure deep point in back exposed a decorated facing. dress. Another point of interest: bold, unfussy embroider- — BRIDGET FOLEY

Karl Lagerfeld with the premières of Chanel’s ateliers, Mmes. Jacqueline, Cécile, Josette and Olivia.

Couture Fall 2016 Photographs by Stéphane Feugère and Giovanni Giannoni and Giovanni Feugère Stéphane by Photographs 6 6 JULY 2016

Couture Fall 2016

Armani Privé as the houndstooth — proved a major theme, It felt a bit like a course correction. In his spring transferred to A-line coats as well as jackets worn Armani Privé couture collection, Giorgio Armani with the dhoti pants Armani just can’t say no to for went decidedly jeune fille — a girlish lilac palette, too long. Even given the volume of the pants, the bloomers, Katy Perry coiffeurs. takeaway was of a linear silhouette. For fall, Armani put the brakes on that forced That line continued into evening with several youth movement, returning to a zone better suited alluring black velvet siren gowns, including one to his aesthetic and his couture clients. The stunner, cut dangerously low in back and edged collection he showed was all about sophisticated in crystals. Once in a while, Armani gave in to the chic — a surprisingly reserved take on the genre, grand gesture, some that worked (the collection’s as if sending the message that he wants to take a lone ballgown, a velvet gem with tiered, embroi- breather from externally imposed frenzy to focus dered skirt; a big fluff of blue and black feathers on smart, wearable clothes. turned into a coat) and some that didn’t (silly Most of the collection was reed-thin with a cur- pocket pasties on the sheer bodice of a mermaid rent of sly raciness, particularly by day. A smart gown). But overall, this was a subdued collection, approach in theory, though satiny stylized hound- embellishments included. When he opted for spar- stooth-print pants, while not bloomers, have limit- kle, Armani did so with geometric precision: for ex- ed appeal. These came in combinations of black ample, a pair of black velvet gowns, their bodices with the iciest shades of blue and pink, and were in grids of crystals, one blue, one pink, for the look worn with slim, often collarless peaked-shoulder of a jeweled T-shirt and skirt. Quietly lovely.

jackets. The patterns — other geometrics as well — BRIDGET FOLEY Feugère Stéphane by Photographs 6 JULY 2016 7

Couture Fall 2016

Giambattista Valli heart into sleeves: big bulging meringues of satin; flapping Céline Dion wears her heart on her sleeve — and held petals of ruffled organza; billowing bells of chiffon; laterns her hand on her chest and seemed to hold her breath as iced with ruffles like a wedding cake, and multiple puffs in Giambattista Valli’s puffball finale gowns — which seem to silk taffeta — sometimes three down one arm, four down get bigger every season — ambled by. She rose to her feet the other. clapping at the end of the show, thrusting two thumbs up These sleeves, often in contrasting colors and fabrics, for Valli, who came over to shake her hand. He had her added drama and a graphic punch to the short, pert and almost from the word go. Her eyes widened when British gently flaring dresses, the dominant silhouette. While violinist Charlie Siem, as handsome as a matinee idol, a few came printed with delicate handkerchief florals, strolled out playing Eugène Ysaÿe “Violin Sonata No. 2,” many were plain, leaving the stage to the sleeves, or long setting an emotional tone for the display. black tulle trains suspended on a grosgrain ribbons at the Suffice to say that the designer has a new fan. Empire level. To be sure, Dion took in a daring, strong and varied Long, dreamy chiffon columns in blush shades felt like collection from Valli, who eased up on his flower obses- new territory for Valli, and they were lovely. Some came sion and explored new territory, demarcating babydolls gently pleated or draped, others with built-in capes. All and puffballs alike with cages of crystal. He also put his seemed fit for a diva. — MILES SOCHA Photographs by Giovanni Giannoni and Delphine Achard Giovanni by Photographs 8 6 JULY 2016

J.Mendel ette that was half structured black Stéphane Rolland Giles Deacon Stéphane Rolland has of late taken jersey, half white silk crepe cape, a more pared-down approach to with a jagged “cubic” tulle window his collections, opting for intimate running down the middle. Its inspi- presentations at his headquarters ration: the work of Spanish painter on Avenue George V in lieu of the Pablo Palazuelo, a close friend of big-bang shows of yore. And this Cristóbal Balenciaga. “I think uncon- season his collection also showed sciously I have always been inspired a softer side, with his “bubble” skirt. by the pure, graphic nature of his “I wanted to show that we can take paintings,” Rolland said. Other sil- from the past in a more modern way houettes included a gown wrapped than the typical Grace Kelly look that in huge white folds, like an orchid, we see everywhere now,” he said which looked a little claustrophobic. of a twist on the classic ballgown in Rolland also presented a new color-blocked black and nude taffeta, “haute fur” capsule of around 15 organza and tulle with a soft, du- pieces, including a kilt-like suede vet-like aspect on the skirt. skirt with a knitted mink panel at Not to say the couturier is letting the front and mink vests in complex go of his signature bold sculptural labyrinth constructions. A fur interior gowns. “This is the yin and the yang,” design line is in the works, he said. he said of a split-personality silhou- — KATYA FOREMAN

Stéphane Rolland

Couture Fall 2016 Giles Deacon “I wanted it to be like arriving a party,” said Giles Deacon of his Couture Week debut. He presented his collection on mannequins dotted throughout a classic Parisian apartment facing the Jardin des Tuileries, and based it on the modern equivalent of Lady Ottoline Morrell, an extravagant patron of the Bloomsbury Group. It proved a perfect sto- ryline for capturing couture’s essence: knockout, intensively hand-worked creations that nobody else has. Responding to demand from a “nice private client business” that has blossomed over the past four years, particularly in Asia and America, Deacon put his ready-to-wear line on hold for his couture foray. “This is about as day as we get,” said Deacon of a draped dress with exaggerated hips in white and indigo silk satin gazar, hand-dyed in his London studio using a shibori technique. A black velvet tailcoat with elaborate braid work and petals gath- ering at the cuffs was another fine example. J.Mendel together by tiny rows of 24-karat-filled but- Deacon’s naturalist instincts came to the fore in a seaweed-print gown with metallic flower First thought during Gilles Mendel’s tons, giving the impression of a studded embroidery at the bust, and a tiered printed lace couture debut: How practical is an off- fur. Instead, the wearer can open windows dress in a floral motif inspired by Deacon’s plant the-shoulder fur? Isn’t that the part of the onto shoulders and forearms, or slits to drawings. body, however beautiful, that a woman show off the beaded column underneath. The pulse quickened at the sight of a dusty-pink covers at the first hint of chill? But if couture is about possibilities, cocktail dress in layered rows of silk-satin petals But by the end of the display, when Mendel showed plenty, opening his show with burned edges that were then fixed with an off-the-shoulder cape drifted by in a with a white off-the-shoulder column with pearls and dusted with marabou feathers. “We’ll Russian sable that had been infused with tiny tiles of mink mounted on chiffon, quick- sell one of those per region and can offer it maybe 24-karat gold, a different question came to ly followed by a trenchcoat of broadtail in a couple of other colorways,” Deacon said. mind: How does he get it to float there so hand cut to resemble an intricate mesh. Grand evening gowns had their own special effortlessly? The furs were opulent, particularly a white character. Deacon threw paint — “Jackson Pol- Mendel comes from a long line of chinchilla with coiling sleeves and the lock-style” — at a black-and-white silk duchess furriers, and backstage he cited a wish same button trick, here in satin. Evening printed gown with ostrich feather embroideries, to pay tribute to his father, who taught columns came densely beaded in Klimt while a beautiful printed black bustle gown embel- him everything, and his New York atelier, colors, and occasionally overcharged with lished with burnt roses nodded to one of his past clearly capable of marvels. (The show tiered, multicolored swags of pleating. collections. notes mentioned an “invisible corset” Mendel intends the couture showcase Deacon said he’s fascinated by the idea of with each off-the-shoulder style.) At times, to be a permanent rendezvous, in addition making his label “a couture brand for the 20th there was almost a little too much artis- to his ready-to-wear shows in New York, century, using craftsmanship, workmanship — and anal razzle-dazzle. Consider a floor-length the next scheduled for September. technology.” If this is couture’s future, bring it on. broadtail coat carved into columns held — MILES SOCHA

— K.F. Giannoni Giovanni by photograph J.Mendel 6 JULY 2016 9

mass of feathers perfectly recreat- Alexis Mabille Serkan Cura Serkan Cura Serkan Cura’s passion for corsetry, ing a bird’s plumage. crystals and feathers — his specialty Playing on volumes and soft — shows no sign of abating. All those and hard textures, Cura went from ingredients are kindred of cabaret, second-skin bodysuits in allover and his clothes are very much salmon-hued corset lacing to a showpieces. Cue an agonizingly vortex of feather fans attached to slow procession of immaculately a crystal corset base. The level of produced sculptural feats running workmanship was truly impressive, the gamut from a body cage built but the camp, showgirl delivery from feather quills to teddy jackets could do with an overhaul. embroidered in a fluttering, fluffy — KATYA FOREMAN

Ralph & Russo

Rami Kadi peppered in quirky mix of flowers and “Couture doesn’t have to be classic. cartoonish motifs like pineapple-flow- It has to be couture in terms of the ers and cutesy twists on the Evil Eye savoir faire and level of craftsman- symbol. ship, but you don’t have to look like But his strength lay in the outwardly a princess, or if you do it should be simpler pieces. Case in point: an en- in a modern way,” said 29-year-old semble pairing a hand-beaded black Beirut-based couturier Rami Kadi who skirt in geometric formations with a presented his collection at the Plaza backless black sweater glinting with Athénée, a key stomping ground for Lurex threads and colored Swarovski his target client. Since launching five micro crystals. It looked ready to head seasons ago, Kadi has built a strong to the disco, as did a pleated skirt that following in the Middle East with alternated strips of hologram sequins growing interest from Russia and Asia in a rainbow spectrum with sheer (Indian actress Aishwarya Rai wore panels to show a bit of skin, matched one of his gowns to the Cannes Film with a graphic black leather top made Festival this year). using different braiding techniques. His devotion to elaborate handi- While there was nothing ground- work is palpable, with various techno breaking in Kadi’s vision, his modern- treatments surfacing across the izing of traditional couture techniques collection. More than 50 embroidery — embroidery, braiding — with new techniques were used on one black materials made for a unique spin. lace dress alone, with a neo-folky feel, — KATYA FOREMAN

Alexis Mabille dresses that would struggle to fit Alexis Mabille said his fall couture through a regular door frame. They collection was inspired by a Cy ranged from a frothy tiered version, Twombly painting — though you in flesh-colored tulle embroidered wouldn’t have guessed it from look- to look like lace to a minimal white ing at his parade of pastel showstop- shirtdress with a flounced back. Couture pers. If Twombly’s art is the pictorial “The idea of this collection was equivalent of a murmur, then this to be in the pure tradition of couture, Fall was a Barbra Streisand song. but to modernize it with a cool With their graphic ribbons and attitude,” Mabille said backstage — 2016 lavishly tiered skirts, the gowns hence the Penelope Tree eye make- were giddily in-your-face. Mabille up and center-parted, slicked down borrowed Twombly’s palette of hair. “You can have a big ballgown, sunrise and sundown tones, and but you add pockets on the sides, the effect was suitably delicate at and suddenly the dress becomes cluding Seventies bohemia and super-cool. I like to subvert tradition Ralph & Russo 19th-century Italian tapestries. times. Applied to shiny fabrics such contin- with this kind of detail, and loosen up A flower-power theme Still registering strongly was as duchesse satin, however, the ued to infuse the fall collection, how these outfits are worn. You don’t Old Hollywood glamour, as seen powdery shades popped like candy which was festooned with necessarily need to pair them with in a pink tulle gown with a plung- wrappers. blossoms and other floral motifs an updo and big earrings,” he added. ing neckline and black belt and a The designer stuck to sculptural that Tamara Ralph and Michael The prize for effortless allure tulle gown with silk organza skirt shapes that were deceptively Russo hand-painted or rendered went to a corolla radzimir dress in a and top embroidered with gold simple, countered with intricate via silk 3-D cutouts and beading. dégradé of white, cream and latte, feather thread work. surface effects. A case in point was The collection varied in set off with a white bow placed on Right before lights dimmed, the finale look, which paired a cape volumes, from a long and billowy one shoulder. In a more traditional Lil’ Kim was ushered to her front- in dramatic platinum and gold silk silk chiffon gown and cape to vein, a high-waisted white crepe row seat at the show, joining the folds with trousers in crystal-embroi- a sheer tulle bodysuit and silk skirt provided a pristine canvas for likes of Petra Nemcova, Jour- dered tulle. faille flared skirt to the mini shift exquisite three-dimensional baby dan Dunn, Sonam Kapoor and It was one of several outfits dress with cocoon-shaped cape. blue and yellow floral embroidery. Adriana Lima. that demanded a grand entrance References abounded, too, in- Rami Kadi — JOELLE DIDERICH — JENNIFER WEIL Cura and Russo photographs by Giovanni Giannoni; Mabille by Dominique Maître Giannoni; Mabille by Giovanni by photographs and Russo Cura — literally, in the case of triple-width 10 6 JULY 2016

Aouadi RVDK/Ronald van der Kemp give them a sexy touch, they came paired with a peplum Ronald van der Kemp continued to splice vintage and lumberjack shirt. Van der Kemp said he had been inspired recycled fabrics into weird and wonderful shapes in this by origami for the collection, and this was apparent in fourth demi-couture collection under the RDVK label. He many of the shapes he created, crumpling and folding the mixed elements of Eighties power dressing with street- fabrics into exaggerated shapes and playing with jagged wear references in an irreverent way. hems and bell sleeves. A patchwork quilt was taken apart and reworked Stepping beyond recycling, van der Kemp for the into a chaotic and colorful peplum jacket for one look. first time sourced some of the fabrics — a rough denim, Elsewhere there were spots, stripes, checks, ruffles, floral for instance, which was used as a patchwork on a wrap and animal prints aplenty, preferably styled in contrasting jacket — from Mali, where they were handwoven for the ways. Camouflage pants were a patchwork of fabrics collection as part of a funding initiative aiding schools. from different armies, and while tapered at the ankle to — ALEX WYNNE

RVDK/Ronald van der Kemp

Couture Fall 2016

Aouadi rero’s muleta embroidered with black gemstones. But A visit to the Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba inspired they were more successful when less literal — as on the Yacine Aouadi to explore themes based on Andalusia’s scalloped edges of a black strapless wool gown, lined Moorish and ecumenical heritage. The Balmain alum- in emerald satin, which at the back revealed a boned nus said he was seeking to overturn cultural clichés in corset adorned with small white leather flowers; or on his third, colorful collection (he is showing as a guest on an emerald silk shorts suit and reverse tailcoat with a the Paris couture calendar). Whether he achieved that Renaissance-style bodice embroidered by Lesage. is open to debate, but what he did do was show off his Technically, the details throughout the collection ability to play creatively with embellishment and use were fascinating — as in the use of platinum-colored materials to interesting effect, proving his place as one sequins heated until they curled into tiny tubes, then of couture’s rising talents. embroidered to create an astrakhan effect, or in the The Hispanic references were most evident in a red embossed motifs created by burning the reverse of broadcloth bodysuit, complete with an integrated to- indigo panné velvet. — A.W. Resort Theory Now

Theory The languid pants, in washed velvet dyed an icy lemon shade, puddled like long pajama bottoms. The elongated biker jacket came in sky-blue double face cashmere, and the boat- neck shift dress in a juicy orange, cinched at the wait with elastic. Striking and varied color was the big news Jimmy Choo chez Theory, which presented its resort range on racks at its Paris showroom. Loose and lounge-y, the collection hinged on boxy sweat- tons attached to the toe area as well as three jeweled ers sliding off shoulders, wide and flaring Jimmy Choo Jimmy Choo laid on a glittering banquet for the Paris buttons that could be clipped on at random. Similarly, pants in everything from corduroy to rib knit, the plain metal clasp on the House’s signature Cloud and long striped shirts and shirt dresses — launch of its latest resort goodies — literally. They were placed on plates surrounded by fake turkeys, lavish clutch unclipped to leave way for a choice of crystal mannish, despite the trailing streamers. brooches to set a more feminine tone. A range of pearl, Yet there were still those go-to pieces for faux fruit and seafood platters and crystal glasses overflowing with red crystals. And as an amuse- diamanté and fur pom-pom embellishments to clip on urban professionals: a long knife-pleated skirt; to flats and ankle strap pumps were also presented, pleated and slightly cropped pants; and a sleek bouche, creative director Sandra Choi also whipped up a limited-edition capsule collection of shoes and lending a bespoke edge to the looks. technical parka. Vaguely Eighties blouses A trio of customizable options come with each style, with funnel necks straddled the office and bags that came with a choice of broochlike jeweled adornments. with additional options available to purchase. Hits from ath-leisure, with buttons running from chin to the main line, meanwhile, included the Macy platform wrist, allowing a window onto the shoulders for The concept played out differently, depending on the style. For example, the line’s pointy-toe pump in a sandal in colored suede and metallic leather and a slim cocktail hour. tapered heel measuring a lofty 150 mm. — MILES SOCHA new camo-floral print came with seven covered but- — KATYA FOREMAN 6 JULY 2016 11

FASHION has “focused on addressing the potential use of hazardous chemicals within its supply chain for over 20 years,” listing Greenpeace Praises Three numerous examples. He said the com- pany phased out the use of PFCs, which provide water repellency and durability in high performance outdoor products Retailers for Detox 2020 Efforts from Nike and affiliate brand products by January 1, 2015. In addition, “We collab- ● Inditex, Benetton and H&M Limited Brands, Li-Ning and Nike are the orated with Dutch start-up DyeCoo Tex- earn points while others called companies that “originally made a Detox Benetton earned tiles System to develop the first commer- commitment but are currently heading praise from cially available textile dyeing machines out for “hazardous chemical Greenpeace for in the wrong direction, failing to take cleaning up its that use no water.” pollution.” individual responsibility for their supply supply chain. A spokeswoman at Limited Brands chain’s hazardous chemical pollution,” declined comment Monday, and execu- BY ROSEMARY FEITELBERG according to Greenpeace. tives at Li-Ning did not respond immedi- An Esprit spokeswoman said Monday ately for comment Monday. In its 2016 Detox Catwalk list, Green- that the company banned PFCs from its Twelve other companies, which peace singled out three apparel firms for supply chain in 2014, but it is mentioned represent the majority of the rankings being “ahead of the curve and on track with brands that have not. And having — fell into the “Evolution Mode,” as in to meet their commitments” to eliminate landed in the top ranks in the past two improvement is needed in two to three hazardous chemicals by 2020. Greenpeace Detox Catwalks, “this year’s assessment areas. Described as having The rundown examines how well-pre- assessment is obviously very disappoint- made progress implementing their plans, pared companies that have committed ing” for Esprit, she said. but needing to step up their efforts to to Greenpeace’s Detox 2020 campaign “Overall, we would like to emphasize reach the 2020 Detox goal were — C&A, are to actually achieving that goal. In its that we at Esprit — as a member of the Fast Retailing, G-Star, Mango, Miroglio, third installment, the Detox Catwalk list Textile Alliance [Textilbündnis] and Valentino, Adidas, Burberry, Levi’s, Pri- zeroed in on implementation. Indi- a member of the industry association mark, Puma and M&S. tex, Benetton and H&M were the only ZDHC [Zero Discharge of Hazardous Launched in 2011, the Detox campaign companies to rank as “Avant-Garde.” Chemicals] — continuously engage in has commitments from 76 international Greenpeace claimed these companies making our supply chain as environmen- retailers, brands and suppliers. Moving are “leading the industry toward a tally friendly as possible. All of our prod- forward, Greenpeace aims to foster more toxic-free future with credible timelines, ucts are intensively tested for potential collaboration like the one in Italy’s Prato concrete actions and on-the-ground pollutants and to ensure compliance with region where 42 companies have teamed implementation.” legal limits of chemicals. This is why our up. But the Detox Catwalk report noted Four other brands didn’t measure up Esprit consumers can enjoy our prod- do more of our homework in the area that consumers’ addiction to fast fashion quite so well and were tagged as a “Faux uct without hesitation. Not for nothing, of transparency,” the company spokes- and increasing rate that clothes are Pas” for “not yet accepting responsibility Esprit fashion is about feeling good — this woman said, “we are working with made, bought, used and thrown away is for their hazardous chemical pollution includes the good feeling when you are the ZDHC to build up an appropriate ramping up the environmental impacts and implementing the urgent steps aware of the safe production conditions,” platform to give access to comprehensive of fashion. Greenpeace will be pushing needed to achieve the goal of eliminating she said. supplier information.” for more profound changes to “close and hazardous chemicals by 2020.” Esprit, Acknowledging that Esprit “needs to A Nike spokesman said the company slow the loop.”

RETAIL At DKNY Forum Shops Unit, Opposites Attract

● DKNY’s renovated store in Las own twist. with the raw and frayed.” been the inspiration for the brand. Raw Vegas displays the tension “The slipdress is really important Such opposing themes are apparent materials such as plywood and Sheetrock this season,” the spokeswoman added. throughout in the store’s design. There’s are re-contextualized and elevated in the seen in the collection between “There’s the double-breasted sleeveless tension, vis-à-vis hard and soft, and con- store. Layers and composites reflect city hard and soft. jumper and pinstripes have continued. struction and deconstruction. The store materials and textures contrasted with a They’re a brand code. We’ll have foot- also plays with the ideas of polished and soft, glowing corrugated fiberglass wall. BY SHARON EDELSON wear, handbags, watches and eyewear. imperfect, and past and present. Through clear display fixtures, layer The palette is dark, rich and seductive. Materials are intended to represent upon layer of raw materials can be seen, A work in progress implies something The clothes are deconstructed and recon- a city that’s always under construction like a diagram from geology class of a that’s unfinished and unpolished, but structed layers that juxtapose the finished — just like Manhattan, which has long cross section of the layers of the earth. for DKNY, the term is the theme of the Bringing an artistic element to the brand’s retail prototype. store, the Las Vegas unit will showcase Unveiled in March at the DKNY flagship The DKNY store at the Forum versions of the iconic New York City on West Broadway in SoHo, the design Shops at Caesars Palace. subway bench in unexpected materials has been applied, with some iterations, to and a twist on the industrial I-beam the completely redesigned 1,468-square- is expressed in mirrors and polished foot store at the Forum Shops at Caesars chrome. Palace in Las Vegas, which reopened on The subway benches are similar to the Friday. props in the SoHo store. The company DKNY’s renovated stores reflect the said these elements serve as a reminder of evolution and transformation of the DKNY’s ties to New York and the brand’s brand under the creative direction of synergistic relationship to its surrounding Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow. The elements. founders and creative directors of Public “We chose the New York City subway School, presented their first DKNY collec- bench because we wanted to something tion on Sept. 16 during New York Fashion different,” the spokeswoman said. “We’ve Week. had taxi cabs in advertising campaigns A DKNY spokeswoman said their first before. You see the subway bench collection was an ode to what Donna throughout the store and in our window.” Karan was doing with her first collection. There’s an art theme running through “It was very clean, where you started to the store as well. Mannequins are of the see a little more of DKNY come through in type favored by artists and art students — the fall collection,” she said. “The fall is wooden and with articulated joints. a completely different collection. There’s The New Women’s Project, a partner- more mixing and different fabrics. It’s ship with the New Museum, has been true to what DKNY is. One of the rea- keeping the SoHo unit in art. Installations sons the guys were selected is that they at the Las Vegas store relate to the subway understand the sensibility of DKNY. They bench, such as a video art display of sub- are able to stay true to that, but with their way tiles on flat-screen TVs. 12 6 JULY 2016

RETAIL boutiques. Some 45 percent of the stores on the street are independent. Seaborn isn’t interested in luxury retail alone: He pointed to other brands in the Cadogan Estate Keeps neighborhood, such as Club Monaco, Hugo Boss and Rag & Bone, and said Cadogan plans to increase its lifestyle offer, too. A space is being created by the south end of Sloane Street — nearer the newly opened Brexit in Perspective Delpozo and Boutique 1 — that will resemble Milan’s 10 Corso Como, offering a courtyard ● The property owner is A view of Sloane Street. Knightsbridge are known to be safe areas café for customers. Near the new piazza a undeterred by Britain’s and retailers are encouraged to maintain a series of artisan shops including a butcher, close relationship with the police force to baker, greengrocer and a wine store will add planned exit from the EU as it improve security. to the street’s food offer, in a bid to satisfy notches double-digit gains. Cadogan aims to invest 40 million the local residents. pounds, or $53 million, in the area’s public “The butcher paying next to no rent mat- BY NATALIE THEODOSI spaces program, which by 2017 plans to ters just as much as Tom Ford who pays a lot improve footpaths, highways and “every- more,” he said. thing the eye rests on outside the buildings,” Indeed, while the neighborhood is packed LONDON — Cadogan Group, the fami- he said. with wealthy foreigners — French, Italians, ly-owned property company and the main A number of Cadogan’s redevelopment Germans, Americans, Middle Easterners landlord in Chelsea and Knightsbridge, is projects also boosted profits last year. In and Asians — many of them are settled with watching profits grow as it pushes ahead 2011, the group pushed forward projects to young families, and need to be able to walk with luxury retail development. improve several of its office buildings. They to local shops. The Cadogans, one of Britain’s richest were brought back onto the market in 2015. Asked about Brexit, and how Britain’s families, have owned the same vast swathes George House, at 127 to 135 Sloane Street, vote to the leave the EU will impact plans of central London for more than 300 years, was completed in February and its retail and future investment, Seaborn said the with their estate spanning 93 acres. They are space was filled by three international group is able to draw on centuries of polit- undeterred by Britain’s vote to exit the Euro- brands entering the U.K. as stand-alone ical and social ups and downs. “We have pean Union. Crises? Uncertainty? They’ve stores for the first time: Red Valentino, Del- been here 300 years and we’ve adapted seen it — and survived it — all before. pozo and Boutique 1. and responded over the years to a range of In the year ended Dec. 31, 2015, the As a result, Cadogan’s gross rents things and I’m very confident we’ll adapt group’s operating profit (before returns on increased by 6.5 percent to 71.3 million again,” said Seaborn. capital) rose 14.4 percent, to 82.8 million pounds, or $94 million. He pointed to the 2008 banking crisis and pounds, or $110 million. The profit spike was “There is no doubt that retail is undergo- the leasehold reform acts in the late Nineties largely due to the growth of the area’s retail street, Sloane Street is fortunate because ing radical change, with digital forces trans- that forced the group to sell some of its res- and office values, which have increased of the residential hinterland around it,” forming the way consumers shop. However, idential property. He said the latter urged it more than 20 percent. Residential values Seaborn told WWD. “The analogy I’ve our experience is that demand remains to adapt its approach to business by placing remained flat due to a weaker market that heard often is that Sloane Street is rather healthy for retail space, with luxury brands more focus on retail property — and being has seen little capital growth since 2014. like Avenue Montaigne when compared to seeking larger shops, which they transform more in touch with occupiers. The estate said it managed to sustain the Champs Elysées or like Madison Avenue creatively to deliver an exceptional experi- With regard to Britain’s future exit from growth despite an unstable environment, when compared to Fifth Avenue.” ence that cannot be replicated online. This the EU, Seaborn said it might be difficult to especially during the second half of the year He said residents are “particularly has manifested itself most particularly at the maintain the same level of growth until a when terrorist threats on the Continent affluent” and are drawn to the street, so the north end of Sloane Street,” Seaborn said. new leader is elected, although he added impacted tourism and consumer spending. estate relies more on them. “This means He added that one of the group’s strate- that it’s impossible to make any predictions. Hugh Seaborn, the group’s chief executive we’ve weathered the past year when certain gies is to work with top international brands He does however, foresee a slight increase officer, said Chelsea is more dependent on nationalities have faced adversity and there’s that have limited exposure in London and in interest rates as economic growth slows locals than it is on tourists. been less traveling.” looking to open their first U.K. flagships. and believes that will mitigate against the “In the context of a luxury shopping Seaborn added that Chelsea and They are also seeking original, independent upward movement of property yields.

RETAIL Boutique 1 Opens London Flagship on Sloane Street

● Luxury Middle Eastern fashion of the street that’s owned and run by Cadogan A look from Atea worldwide, including merchandise from the retailer, Boutique 1 is opening Estates. Oceanie x Man group’s monobrand stores. Orders can be The unit sits near the new Delpozo and Red Repeller exclusive to made online and will be delivered to the new in London. The relaunch of its Valentino stores, while a Hôtel Costes and a Boutique 1. London boutique to try on, with no obligation e-tail platform, Boutique1.com Belmond Cadogan Hotel, which will have a to purchase. is set to follow later this year. restaurant by Raymond Blanc, are slated to Boutique 1 also plans to operate a global open over the next year. loyalty program, enabling customers to earn BY STEPHANIE HIRSCHMILLER Boutique 1’s cofounder and co-chief and redeem rewards across Boutique 1 stores executive officer Ziad Matta said it made and online. “Our strategy is very much to LONDON — Boutique 1, the Middle Eastern sense to open a London outpost. “Many of invest both in bricks and mortar as well as luxury fashion retailer, is spreading its wings our customers have second homes here, so I online. The same customers shop both,” said beyond the Gulf region with a store set to think there’s a lot of synergy between the two Matta, adding the company wants to “push open this month on Sloane Street in Chelsea. places,” said Matta, who also operates the integration to a level I don’t think has been The relaunch of its e-tail platform, Boutique1. Paul & Joe store on Bruton Street and the Mis- achieved so far.” com, is set to follow later this year. soni unit, across the street from Boutique 1. He said the challenge on the digital front is Located at 127-128 Sloane Street, the bou- While the United Arab Emirates remains to replicate the customer service offered in tique spans 12,000 square feet over two floors Boutique 1’s largest market, the second biggest the boutiques. and stocks ready-to-wear and accessories, is the U.K., with customers buying online. Boutique1.com will feature new func- denim, swim and activewear, gifts and books. There are Boutique 1 stores in Dubai, Abu tionalities, including video chat with sales It also houses a VIP personal shopping lounge Dhabi and Beirut. assistants, although much of the investment with a styling team and complementary tailor- Matta believes Boutique 1 will offer an Proenza Schouler, Elie Saab, Rosetta Getty, in technology has been focused on the back ing service. attractive alternative to Harvey Nichols and Rosie Assoulin, Anthony Vaccarello and end of the business. “We’ve only invested The understated interiors are neutral and Harrods, which are both a short walk away. Monse. Exclusives include French newcomer in technology that will make a difference to the materials are natural. There are oak and “We are an anti-department store at the other Atlein; Iro x Anja Rubik, and knitwear label customer experience,” said Matta. “There’s unpolished travertine marble floors and end of the spectrum. We are a boutique. We Spencer Vladimir. The British contemporary lots that the end user won’t even notice — but sandblasted limestone walls. Matte black and just happen to be a large one.” brand Atea Oceanie is also part of the mix, they will reap the benefits.” brushed brass appears on doors, staircases He said Boutique 1 is all about personalized as is its new capsule collection with Man The new platform will also create its own and display units. Chairs and oversize service and a distinct point of view. “We’re Repeller. editorial content, encouraging users to “hang benches are upholstered in linen fabric. not trying to reinvent the wheel, but do what Omni-channel shopping is of paramount out” online in the same way as they might do There is also a café run by Pablo Flack and we do really well — and be as customer-centric importance, said Matta. There is a click- in the London café. Going forward, Matta is David Waddington, the duo behind the East as we possibly can.” and-collect service with same-day delivery, planning to open three mono-brand stores London restaurant Bistrotheque. The café, London-based labels including Erdem, although customers will have to wait 48 next year in Dubai: Azzedine Alaïa’s only called April’s, has an outdoor terrace. The Peter Pilotto, Roland Mouret and Roksanda hours if their order is coming from Dubai. standalone store outside Paris; Missoni, and

store is a key addition to the redeveloped part sit alongside international names such as Customers will be able to access stock held Isabel Marant. Segre/REX/Shutterstock Alex by Cadogan photograph 6 JULY 2016 13

BEAUTY 12.29’s Dawn and 12.29 Counts Samantha Goldworm. Valentino as Client ● The agency creates scents for has rolled out to all its runway shows, brands, with clients that range showrooms and flagship boutiques in Rome, Milan, Paris and New York. from Cadillac to Valentino. Dawn Goldworm said she flew to BY RACHEL STRUGATZ Rome to meet with Valentino’s creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli in February of 2014 to walk them through her creative process NEW YORK — Twin sisters Dawn and — which has nothing to do with smell. Samantha Goldworm are building a She said she uses a few techniques new kind of branding agency — one that to translate a brand into a scent, which uses scent to refine a company’s voice — includes research done on olfactive pref- with clients that range from Cadillac to erence per region and culture as well as Valentino. the process of synesthesia, a neurologi- “We’re not an ambient scenting cal condition where one uses one scent company. We don’t do nice scents to just to understand another. fill spaces. We translate the brand into “When I smell, I automatically see a smell that should and does commu- colors, shapes and textures. I also [do nicate the voice of the brand,” Dawn the same] when I hear music — I see Goldworm told WWD during an inter- color shapes and textures. It happens view last month. The firm she founded automatically and you can’t cultivate with Samantha, 12.29, is headquartered it; I found out in perfumery school,” in the Flatiron District here with labs on Goldworm said. “When a brand tells me to help brands communicate in a more In February of 2014, for instance, the the Upper East Side and in Paris. they’re represented by the color red, I “multisensorial” way. Goldworms were responsible for show- She explained that what she and already know what they will smell like. Goldworm, who spent eight years goers at the Opening Ceremony show Samantha do has nothing to do with Although you don’t think you smell by at Coty Inc. as an in-house nose and “running to the wall and licking the perfuming a space. This is a branding color you do.” worked at Avon’s global headquarters chocolate, thinking the chocolate was tool — the same as shooting an adver- She presented four scent options to before that, got her start in olfactory making the smell,” according to Gold- tising campaign — and the services Chiuri and Piccioli three months after branding when she created a scent for worm (it was really a perfume grade the two provide fall under “brand meeting them, and they both picked friend Gabriele Corto Moltedo’s store in oil emanating the scent). In September communication.” the same one: a fragrance based on the the fall of 2008. She left her post at Coty of 2009, Dawn created a scent for the To date, the Goldworms have worked Valentino red color and a very modern in 2012 to work full time at 12.29, which spring 2010 Rodarte show, which was with fragrance giant Firmenich to scent rose. Natural rose, Goldworm said, was she founded with Samantha in 2009. the first custom scent to be diffused with brands, fashion shows, hotels and coupled with geranium to bring “a bit “He [Corto Moltedo] asked if I could technology during a show. car companies that include Rodarte, of modernity to what can be seen as scent his store, which is what I thought But these brand scents won’t come Jason Wu, Zac Posen, Thakoon, Prabal a classic rose note” and bottom notes it was at the beginning. I had this idea cheap. Gurung, Opening Ceremony, Thompson contained a “creamy, balsamic accord.” that we can create a brand scent based Those who wish to work with 12.29 Hotels, Viceroy Hotels and Resorts and She compared it to a couture Valentino on the DNA of brand you’re building — can expect to pay a sizable fee for their Cadillac. dress. on colors, textures and the target mar- sensorial expertise. The sisters likened But 12.29’s most high-profile fashion “Scent and emotion live in the same ket,” Goldworm said of her first project. the expense to designing a store’s inte- client to date is Valentino, which has part of the brain. If you create a scent She explained that this scent would rior, and said prices can range from tens spent the past year-and-a-half rolling out and link an emotion to it, you can envelop the “overall feeling” of what the of thousands of dollars (for a fashion a brand scent. Created by 12.29, the Ital- change how people experience events, brand is trying to elicit on a variety of show) to several hundred thousands of ian fashion house’s scent launched at its products [and more],” Goldworm said of touch points, including touch, taste and dollars to creating a brand scent that couture show in January of last year and how she and Samantha are using scent sound. touches multiple global touch points.

FASHION Akris to Stage Runway Show in N.Y.

● The event coincides with It will dovetail with another Akris transformation, as designers and brands creative director Albert milestone: Albert Kriemler is to receive question the importance of seasons and Kriemler receiving an award the Couture Council of the Museum at explore see-now-buy-now concepts. FIT’s 2016 Award for Artistry of Fashion. Kriemler acknowledged Akris is from the Couture Council of The award will be bestowed at the coun- keeping a close eye on the evolution of the Museum at FIT. cil’s annual luncheon at the opening fashion shows and seasonality, but “our of New York Fashion Week Sept. 7 at Lin- answer is not yet formulated.” BY MILES SOCHA coln Center, as reported. Akris has been a member of the The doubleheader is recognition of Fédération Française de la Couture du the importance of the U.S. market. Prêt-à-Porter, des Couturiers et des PARIS — Akris is to parade its spring “In the last 15 years, it has risen to Créateurs de Mode since 1996. collection at New York Fashion Week, become the most important market for Founded in 1922, Akris under Albert WWD has learned. our brand,” Peter Kriemler said in an Kriemler has gained renown as a The Swiss fashion house helmed by interview. resource for elegantly tailored minimal- creative director Albert Kriemler has The company boasts eight directly ist designs in the finest fabrics, which been showing its collections in Paris operated stores in the U.S., and whole- have attracted clients such as Angelina since 2004. sales its Akris and Akris Punto ready-to- Jolie, Princess Charlene of Monaco and “This is a one-off event,” said Peter wear and accessories to 150 doors. former Secretary of State Condoleezza Kriemler, Albert’s brother and chief Akris plans to add a Houston location, Rice. executive officer of the family-owned slated to open Aug. 1, and to enlarge its The Couture Council of The Museum firm, based in St. Gallen, Switzerland. store in Palm Beach, Fla. Earlier this at FIT was created in 2004 to support He noted that Akris would take orders in year, Akris shifted locations in Boston. the school’s fashion-focused museum. Manhattan after the showing, and then Its major wholesale partners in the Past Couture Council honorees include for three days during the Paris designer U.S. include Neiman Marcus Group, Saks Manolo Blahnik, who received the market. Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom. Award for Artistry last year; Carolina The venue for the Sept. 9 runway The New York showing puts Akris Herrera; Michael Kors; Oscar de la Akris Resort 2017

Valentino photograph by Mark Squires; Akris by Aurora Rose Aurora Akris by Mark Squires; by photograph Valentino event has yet to be confirmed. in the midst of a fashion week in Renta, and Karl Lagerfeld. 14 6 JULY 2016

FASHION Calvin Klein Fall Campaign Features Kate Moss, Margot Robbie, Bella Hadid, More

● The company asked a diverse An image collection for the house. In one image, ck.com’s digital “zine” will provide an cast of actors, musicians, from Calvin Young Thug is shown in a fall women’s audiovisual stream of stories that will be Klein’s fall ad Collection dress and pant; Robbie wears updated regularly, including articles about campaign. artists, athletes, models, social a Collection dress, and Moss (who was each cast member. In addition, the site media stars and rappers to last featured in a Calvin Klein Jeans ad in will offer select talents’ Spotify playlists, fill in the blank: “I _____ in 2006) appears in a Collection sweater coat, presented throughout the season, as well holding a Calvin Klein Collection faux-fur as a custom playlist generator, whereby #mycalvins.” belted hobo bag. Hadid and Dallas are the user can choose a verb from a list of BY LISA LOCKWOOD photographed in Calvin Klein Jeans, while options and a customized playlist will be Kravitz and Rodriguez pose in Calvin Klein created on Spotify. Underwear. The campaign is planned across 26 Kate’s back, along with Margot Robbie, The fall campaign will be enhanced global markets, with an expected 500 Bella Hadid, Grace Coddington and a host with digital and video content, interviews million impressions. It will consist of of actors, musicians, artists, athletes, with each of the campaign cast members digital, mobile, print and outdoor advertis- models, social media stars and rappers. and behind-the-scenes material and social ing. After breaking in the press and social They’re all appearing in Calvin Klein’s fall media moments that will run throughout media today, paid advertising begins Aug. campaign, which is an evolution of the one the fall season. 1. The campaign was teased on Snapchat from the previous spring. Once again, the “Our approach is digital-first, video-led Tuesday night. The company declined to company asked cast members to fill in the and socially powered, providing our reveal the fall ad budget. blank: “I _____ in #mycalvins.” Responses audience with an authentic and intimate Calvin Klein has once again partnered ranged from “look back” from Moss, to experience that they can consume and with Dazed Media on a collaboration lever- “intimidate” from Hadid to “dare” from share,” said Melisa Goldie, chief marketing aging their print and digital properties. The Robbie to “purr” from Coddington. officer of Calvin Klein Inc. global partnership includes a cross-chan- All of the Calvin Klein brands — Calvin As an added layer, an immersive cam- nel and immersive program on Spotify that Klein Collection, Calvin Klein Platinum, paign hub launches today, on ck.com, offers users a dedicated branded profile Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin to James Rodriguez, a Colombian soccer beginning with a 24-hour integrated video page with custom playlists and Calvin Klein Klein Underwear — are presented together player, to Presley Walker Gerber, son of takeover on its U.S. site, wwd.ck.com/ content. in a visual narrative, a strategy that began Cindy Crawford and Rande Gerber. There mycalvins. The takeover is made up of a Last March, Calvin Klein gave viewers a for spring. is also Cameron Dallas, social media star; collection of more than 50 videos, featur- real-time look into the ad campaign pro- In total, Calvin Klein gathered more female Little Leaguer Mo’ne Davis; actress, ing campaign cast interviews, behind-the- duction on the brand’s Periscope channel. than 25 people from all walks of life to musician and model Zoë Kravitz; indie scenes content and talent performances. Viewers were granted early access to the participate in the shoot, which was photo- actor Antoine-Olivier Pilon, and actor and Throughout the day, there will be a contin- shoot with behind-the-scenes videos of graphed by Tyrone Lebon. In addition to model Aomi Muyock. ual stream of this video footage from the campaign talent, including Hadid, Dallas Moss, Robbie, Hadid and Coddington, the The Collection ads feature the faces campaign, a selection of which is exclusive and social media star Selah Marley, as well crew ranges from Young Thug, a rapper, wearing Francisco Costa’s last fall to calvinklein.com. During the fall season, as street cast members.

ACCESSORIES factory in Baccarat, France, to understand the production techniques, ultimately revisiting its octagon cut — flattening one side for neck- Baccarat Unveils Jewelry Range laces so the crystals won’t turn — and devising molds for her rings, with the curved steel and gold piercing the crystal. Draping a clear crystal necklace on By Marie-Hélène de Taillac Riccardi, de Taillac noted how the jewelry brightened the complexion. “Jewelry has to ● The collection is seen 3,500 euros, or $3,900, for a multicolored or have a cosmetic effect, and you get this when rejuvenating the jewelry clear crystal necklace. A limited-edition set in you wear crystal,” she said. red crystal goes for 6,500 euros, or $7,235 at Riccardi said de Taillac’s collection has a category at the French crystal current exchange rates. timeless appeal that is a hallmark of Baccarat firm. Riccardi lauded de Taillac’s designs as jewelry, exemplified by its best-selling pen- “young and easy to wear, yet glamorous at the dant, the Psydelic, with its teardrop-shaped BY MILES SOCHA same time.” crystal on a satin cord. “I want things to look Marking 20 years of creation this year, de like they’ve been around forever. My favorite Taillac is known for her delicate and colorful ring is one I designed in 1997,” de Taillac said. PARIS — Given her penchant for colorful, one-off creations with a bohemian flare, real- “I consider jewelry to be heirlooms because chandelier earrings — and for shirking settings ized in Jaipur, India. “I always loved crystal. you want to pass them down. I try to think of — it was hardly a stretch for jewelry designer As a child, I remember being attracted to all generations.” Marie-Hélène de Taillac to create a capsule rock crystal — my interest in stones goes way Baccarat, which celebrated its 250th birth- collection for French crystal firm Baccarat. back — and I asked my mother, ‘What is the day last year, has produced jewelry since the Unveiled Tuesday in the midst of couture difference between rock crystal and Baccarat Thirties and carries it in all of its 50 directly week in Paris, the collection is to make its crystal?’” de Taillac related. operated boutiques and corners. There are debut at Colette in Paris this September Now she knows the answer. “It captures the 900 Baccarat sales points in the world. before rolling out further in France, followed light in a different way than a stone does, but Since joining Baccarat from Diesel, Riccardi soon after by Japan and the U.S. it’s still very strong,” she enthused. has narrowed the product range to about “This is the first step of the rejuvenation What’s more, crystal, since it’s man-made, 1,000 references, down from a peak of more of the bijou category,” said chief executive comes in an almost unlimited number of than 7,000, allowing the company to optimize officer Daniela Riccardi, who joined Baccarat shades, including Baccarat’s signature red, production and distribution cycles. in 2013 and made fashion accessories a key made deeper with the addition of real gold. Both Riccardi and de Taillac expect the rung in her strategy. “And I’m all about colors,” de Taillac said, rings to be among the most popular items in While jewelry represents only about 10 noting that spinels and rubies are the main the range for a simple reason. “If you buy a percent of Baccarat’s revenues, Riccardi red stones, the latter extremely rare and pendant or a necklace, it’s to delight others,” considers it a crucial entry point for the brand expensive. de Taillac explained. “When you buy a ring, that sells exceptional vases for $30,000 and De Taillac noted that chandeliers are a you have the pleasure of seeing it on your made-to-measure light fixtures that can run common source of inspiration for her, and hands.” into six figures. Prices for the Marie-Hélène her preference for drilling stones, rather than De Taillac has boutiques in Paris, New York de Taillac for Baccarat collection start at 250 Daniela Riccardi and setting them, echoes the methods of chan- and Tokyo, and wholesales her creations to Marie-Hélène de Taillac euros, or $275, for a small pendant, up to delier construction. She visited Baccarat’s about 30 specialty stores. Feugère Stéphane by photograph Baccarat 6 JULY 2016 15

THE MARKETS more effective than the Arbitration Council,” Chhieu said. Dispute resolution should begin at preven- Cambodia Garment Industry tion, said William Conklin, head of Solidarity Center, a labor rights organization affiliated with the AFL-CIO. “It’s important to talk dispute resolution Roiled by Disputes: Panelists in the same breath as dispute prevention because this is where collective bargaining agreements can come in,” Conklin said, add- ● A conference focused on ing that unions need to be more transparent the country’s relationship and strategic in how they approach industrial relations. “They need to merge — they don’t between the government, need to split — to prove that unity is the employers and workers. underlying factor of a trade union.” Cambodia’s union movement has been BY DENE-HERN CHEN marred with in-fighting between groups perceived as independent and groups aligned PHNOM PENH, Cambodia — Despite its with the government or with factory owners. robust garment industry, massive gaps of This often sets back progress when it comes knowledge and understanding of industrial to discussions about touchy subjects, such as relations still plague this southeast Asia coun- the annual minimum wage negotiations. try, government and International Labour Even during the conference, leaders from Organization officials said Tuesday. opposing unions took the floor during the Gathering for a discussion on Cambodia’s Q&A session to slam each others’ role in the often-contentious relationship between Cambodian industry. Meanwhile, Heng Sour, the government, employers and workers, the Ministry of Labor spokesman, lambasted panelists at the conference touched on topics Inside a loom Chhieu for holding the view that some unions spanning from the role independent unions knitting factory. act against the interests of workers because have in maintaining a stable garment sector they are not independent. to how a planned labor court would function occurred last year, hampering the $6.2 billion Veyara Chhieu, national coordinator Despite such a display during a confer- in relation to an already existing Arbitration industry with 450,000 lost man-days. for ILO’s program on improving industrial ence on maturing industrial relations, Men Council — which awards non-binding resolu- Even the government is aware of its relations, stressed that the rampant dis- Nimmith, executive director of the Arbitration tions to disputes within all industrial sectors. shortcomings. “You may ask me who makes crimination against unions by employers Council Foundation, believes that Cambodia Cambodia’s two-decades-long establish- the most mistakes? I say all of the parties do, can be detrimental to any sort of industrial has come a long way since the “breakdown of ment of a manufacturing sector may be including the employers, the unions and the stability. He added that a law concerning the law” during the Khmer Rouge regime. far from fledging but it is still classified as a governments — we all have gaps,” said Heng establishment of a labor court should include “Even though education has improved, it country of high strike risk, with employers Sour, spokesman for the Ministry of Labor. legislation making the Arbitration Council’s is still very much far away from the level of often discriminating against union members He added that collective bargaining decisions legally binding. strengthening the implementation of law,” he in their factories and workers resorting to agreements established in factories “lacked “Some disputes can be solved at the said, explaining that the lack of education has wildcat strikes to get their demands met. quality,” though he was encouraged that the Arbitration Council level, so from our expe- contributed to the rocky relations. According to speaker Sok Lor, who used number of agreements jumped from 45 to rience and our maturity, I don’t believe that “But I think we are still better than Bangla- to head the Arbitration Council, 118 strikes 500 in the last year. the later established labor court would be desh,” Nimmith said.

FASHION Faustine Steinmetz, Cottweiler Win Woolmark Prize British Isles Regional Final

● The British Isles finalists for through MyTheresa.com and Matchesfashion. it’s made out of merino.” which to pitch. the Woolmark Prize were com. The judging panel consisted of Topman cre- “Cottweiler showed us innovation in a “I lost out on so many competitions last ative director Gordon Richardson; Roksanda very quiet, subdued, ‘fashion’ way, keeping it announced Tuesday at the year, I started to feel like I was a terrible Ilincic; GQ editor Dylan Jones; Emily Sheffield, very true to their brand ethos, and delivered Australian High Commission designer,” Steinmetz admitted. “For me, deputy editor of British Vogue; Anita Barr, something that was very modern,” he said. in London. merino wool is the material I love to work group fashion buying director at Harvey Of Steinmetz, he said: “The potential of that with and have done so since I started out. It’s Nichols; Simon Chilvers, men’s style director brand and what it can do with this prize, and BY STEPHANIE HIRSCHMILLER my favorite thing.” at Matchesfashion.com; and Bridget Cosgrave, take it to the next level, the way she talked Her design was entirely hand-felted. “I fashion and buying director for Boutique 1 about craft, was inspirational.” LONDON — Faustine Steinmetz and Cottwei- reproduced a denim jacket and hand-dyed Group. Ilincic agreed. “Faustine showed incredible ler were chosen as finalists of the Woolmark the shades. I was inspired by paintings and “We got all the information about the creativity and an almost couture-like tech- Prize’s British Isles regional competition, and the textures of the paints as seen very close different designers on an iPad and had to rate nique with her approach to the look and the will compete for the big awards early next up. I wanted it to feel like a Van Gogh denim every single category that these guys had been wool fiber. There was scalability from some- year. jacket with little Impressionist touches.” asked to look at, with a number from one thing that was more artistic and experimental Steinmetz won for women’s wear while Steinmetz and her team used about two to five,” said Richardson, adding that each to something that is commercial, which was Cottweiler, designed by Ben Cottrell and Mat- kilos of wool and 10 dye baths of indigo to mix designer had an allocated two-minute slot in one of the great points of her collection.” thew Dainty, scooped the award for the men’s all the colors, and the garment took a week wear. The announcement was made Tuesday to create, with five or six girls working on it. Faustine night during a ceremony at the Australian “It felt a bit like we were a low-budget couture Steinmetz, Ben Cottrell High Commission here. house,” she said. “We broke about 40 felting and Matthew Each will receive 50,000 Australian dollars, needles in the process.” Dainty. or $38,000, as well as mentoring support Cottrell and Dainty of Cottweiler confessed from a global panel of experts. They will also they were newcomers to merino. “It was get a Woolmark license and represent the really exciting to re-imagine what we do in a region in the International Woolmark Prize completely different fabric,” said Cottrell. finals that will take place early next year. For their design, a signature Cottweiler Over the next few months, the designers tracksuit, they bonded 95 percent merino will develop capsule collections using merino wool to a nylon merino mix “so it gives the wool that will be showcased during two impression of a nylon tracksuit but the reverse upcoming Woolmark events. There will be six is all merino,” he added. “The natural prop- men’s wear and six women’s wear finalists in erties of merino - it’s breathable, waterproof total. and windproof - are just as exciting as the The international winners will receive a fur- nylons we’re used to.” ther 100,000 Australian dollars, or $76,000, “We wanted to change people’s percep- plus the opportunity to have their collections tions about the use of the fabric and wanted stocked at retailers including Harvey Nichols to present our signature look to a new audi- in the U.K., David Jones in Australia, Boutique ence,” added Dainty. “We managed to make

Cambodia photograph by Shutterstock by Cambodia photograph 1 in the United Arab Emirates, and online a full look out of merino that doesn’t look as if Men’s Fashion Week An Advertising Opportunity

NYFW: Men’s Preview NYFW: Men’s Recap ISSUE: June 29 ISSUE: July 20 CLOSE: June 17 CLOSE: July 6 MATERIALS: June 20 MATERIALS: July 11

FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8103 OR [email protected] 6 JULY 2016 17

Starting the Aziz Ansari Week Off Right Isabel Marant, Mytheresa.com and Kenzo throw bashes after the first full day of Paris Couture Week. Mia Moretti

The first full day of couture sea- son ended with a bang Monday night, when a spate of parties rocked the French capital. At the Isabel Marant and Mythe- resa.com guinguette-themed party Vanessa Paradis, Gary Dourdan, Aurélie Dupont, Carolyn Murphy and her daughter Dylan, Constance Jablonski and Aymeline Valade were among the guests chilling in the gardens of the Hôtel Particulier in Montmartre, which was festooned with fairy lights and food stands, including vegan pies, mozzarella and swimming pools and really good Frahm. For it Woodkid plays the ice cream shaped on a plancha. tomato salads,” Campbell said. piano and Robert De Niro lends his “We went to Pharrell Williams’ Jablonski won’t be taking time off. voice. Proceeds are going to the Sea- concert together. We have mutual “I redid my apartment in New York,” Watch refugee association. friends,” Dourdan explained of how said the model. New York-based Aziz Ansari he knows Marant. The “CSI: Crime “Who else should you do an event said he had already been in Europe Scene Investigation” actor is to in Paris [with]? This is so Parisian, it’s prior to the Kenzo party, since he appear in a new TV show where he fantastic,” said Michael Kliger, presi- had gone to Italy to glean inspiration plays the head of a radio station. SoKo and dent of Mytheresa.com, referring to for some upcoming filming to take “I wanted something sympathetic Ruth Bell Marant. place there. and relaxed,” said Marant about Jeanne Damas has a book in the “I’m buddies with Spike, and he the party. The designer said she is works, with journalist Loren Bastide, told me he was here, so I came to planning some time off in August. about Parisian women, to be pub- see him,” said Ansari, referring to “We go to Spain every year with a lished by Grasset in late 2017. Spike Jonze, who wrote and directed group of friends, and we do nothing,” Courrèges artistic directors the Kenzo World advertisement explained her husband accessories Arnaud Vaillant and Sébastien Meyer starring Margaret Qualley. designer Jérôme Dreyfuss. and Y/Project’s Glenn Martens were Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, who “It seems that there’s surprising at the party, as well. conceived Kenzo World with Carol food,” said Paradis, before nibbling Also in a stately Right Bank Lim and Leon, has a host of projects farmers’ specialties. “I know Isabel mansion was Kenzo’s perfume party, launching soon, including fragrances through her clothes. I have been where guests flowed through the for Elie Saab and Burberry. Concern- wearing them for a long time. I am a voluminous rooms and spilled out ing his eponymous brand, Kurkdjian great fan.” on to the immense back lawn, which just released the Petit Matin and Andreea Diaconu is another fan was thumping with tunes mixed by Grand Soir scents. of the designer: “I believe my first the likes of Pedro Winter. Guests at the cocktail were show in Paris was with her, and I was Yoann Lemoine (aka Woodkid) treated to a screening of the new very young. I remember thinking I said he’s working on a big project for advertisement, plus a performance really wished that one day I could the Montreux Jazz Festival on July by Ryan Heffington, who choreo- wear these clothes because they’re 15. “I’m doing a special concert for graphed the dance moves in the the coolest things that have ever its 50th anniversary,” he said. “We’re perfume’s film. touched my body. I continue to live by going to be more than 50 on stage. It Jean-Paul Goude, SoKo, Martine that 10 years later,” said the 25-year- is going to be a big celebration. It’s a Sitbon, Marc Ascoli, Petite Meller and old model. brand new creation.” Bradley Cooper were among other Edie Campbell and Mica Arga- Another work of Woodkid’s due guests at the fete. out in a few weeks is the soundtrack — LAURE GUILBAULT naraz were in holiday mode, too. “We Anna Cleveland were planning ideas of hot spots, from a film he did with artist Nils AND JENNIFER WEIL

Edie Campbell Jeanne Damas

Vanessa Paradis and Aymeline Isabel Marant Valade Photographs by Stéphane Feugère and Dominique Maître Feugère Stéphane by Photographs DIGITAL FORUM NEW YORK SEPTEMBER 21 - 22 • NEW YORK CITY PRESENTING SPONSOR AMERICAN EXPRESS

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Paradis will star opposite her former partner Johnny Depp and their daughter Lily-Rose in her next movie, “Yoga Hosers,” Fashion Scoops set for a September release. “Johnny has a supporting role, but the movie is about the two young girls. I have a cameo, and I appear Sew Chic just doing what they do every day,” Chastain in a scene with my daughter and Harley Guests at the Chanel haute couture show marveled. Quinn Smith,” she said. in Paris on Tuesday got a glimpse behind The actress, in Paris for a few days, has Hailey Gates is preparing to film the the scenes, as Karl Lagerfeld decided to found the perfect antidote to the foul weath- second season of her fashion docuseries show the made-to-measure creations in an er: “Shopping. I spent a lot of time in the Bon “States of Undress” on Vice’s television chan- atelier setting staffed with the luxury house’s Marché this week.” nel Viceland. After Pakistan, Venezuela and seamstresses. Willow Smith recently shot her first Palestine, she plans to train her eye on Paris Willow Smith and her dad Will Smith, Chanel campaign with Lagerfeld, and ad- with a special shooting in September. “It’s a Jessica Chastain, Vanessa Paradis and mitted she felt nervous at first, although the little more political, but I can’t tell you what Marianne Faithfull took in two displays on designer quickly put her at ease. it’s about yet,” she teased. “There’s some Tuesday morning. It was a family affair, with “When you talk to an artist and it’s just you interesting things going on here, I think.” Milla Jovovich bringing her daughter Ever and the artist, instead of business people or After that, it will be back to more exotic and Inès de la Fressange coming with her someone trying to tell you what to do, how destinations. “There’s many places I’d like to girls, Nine and Violette d’Urso. much it’s gonna cost, how much ‘bla bla bla’ – go. We’re thinking Iran, maybe Vietnam, Haiti, Also present was Caroline de Maigret, it was just really comforting,” she said. perhaps North Korea if we’ll be let in. They who was named a spokeswoman and am- The 15-year-old recently joined her father have an amazing presentation of fashion bassador for Chanel in an announcement on stage to perform his hit “Summertime,” there,” she said. made after the show. but she hopes to release new tracks of her — JOELLE DIDERICH “It was really special,” Chastain said of own late this year or early next year. “I’m actu- the set. “Sometimes you forget all of the ally working on my album as we speak,” she work that happens behind the scenes, and I said. “I think it’s going to be very, very different Homeward-Bound Willow Smith Cate Blanchett thought how wonderful it was for them to be from my other stuff. I think people are going Cate Blanchett is heading home Down Un- showcased.” to be pretty surprised.” der for the summer — but not for a vacation. in November next year. “Taika Waititi, who’s a Particularly impressive was the fact that Paradis stopped to greet one of the “I’m about to start filming the Marvel series Geronimo Couturissimo wonderful New Zealand director, is doing it, the “petites mains” — or “little hands,” as seamstresses as she arrived. The French ‘Thor’ in Australia,” said the actress at the Offering a new take on high-low, Couturis- and I get to work with Mark Ruffalo and Chris they are known in France — barely looked up singer and actress knows the in-house Giorgio Armani Privé show on Tuesday after- simo is a new fashion platform and brand Hemsworth, which is great.” from their work. “I don’t think that they were teams well, having starred in Chanel cam- noon. “I haven’t made a film in a long time.” launched during Paris Couture Week. It invites Dominic Cooper and Isabelle Huppert pretending to work, and I think that’s why they paigns since 1991. “They are fabulous women Blanchett, who is the face of Armani’s Sì couturiers to design ready-to-wear capsules also took in the show. — ALEX WYNNE were so in character, because they were — supertalented and hardworking. I think they fragrance franchise, is set to feature in the with designs priced at a maximum of 800 are fascinating,” she said. upcoming “Thor: Ragnarok” movie, due out euros, or around $890. London-based Couturissimo was founded Daisy Chain by three key figures from the Asian Couture A behind-the-scenes shoe guru in Europe a year, has a circulation of about Federation: Frank Cintamani, Emily Hwang and for more than 20 years, Fabrizio Viti launched Cindy Zhang, who are founder, vice president 90,000. Named after Moscow’s Ga- his first signature collection during couture rage Museum of Contemporary Art, and board director, respectively. Zhang week here. also owns the China-based workshop that which Zhukova established in 2008, “I really want to express something else,” the magazine focuses on culture, produces all of the collections. Couturissimo’s Memo Pad said the Italian designer, who is to remain creative directors are Livia Stoianova and Yas- fashion and contemporary art. head of women’s footwear under Nicolas sen Samouilov, who have their own couture The magazine has featured Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton. The Italian label, On Aura Tout Vu. Vice said editor in chief Zhukova contributions from art and fashion Vice Media Buys national is a 12-year veteran of the French The Paris event, held in an ephemeral would continue in her role, adding world luminaries, including Jeff Majority Stake in brand and has also worked for Prada and structure in the Jardins des Tuileries, saw that the glossy will grow its editorial Koons, Damien Hirst, Nick Knight, Gucci. the brand’s first guest designers, Indonesia’s Garage Magazine teams, with offices based in New Marc Jacobs, Richard Prince, John His 16-style resort collection has a retro Sebastian Gunawan and Dubai-based Filipino Vice Media is making a foray into York and London, and roll out further Baldessari, Inez & Vinoodh and charm with its vintage Tupperware colors, couturier Michael Cinco, present their tradi- the art world with the purchase of a international teams launching local Patrick Demarchelier. white piping and ankle straps. The most elab- tional couture collections followed by their see- controlling stake in Garage mag- editions. “Dasha and the Garage team orate shoes have a lattice of leather climbing now-buy-now Couturissimo capsules. These azine. Terms of the deal were not “Vice Media continues to develop have created an amazing product up the ankle, each crisscross studded with a included Cinco’s black dress with a butterfly disclosed. innovative formats to deliver sto- that melds the worlds of publishing leather daisy. wing-inspired Chantilly lace design. The art and culture publication, ries of culture, sociological trends, and technology with art, design and Gisela Niedzielski, previously a consultant Stoianova and Samouilov also present- which was founded by Dasha Zhu- and investigative journalism to a fashion to create something totally with Robert Burke & Associates, is chief ed eight of their most successful couture kova, the wife of Russian billionaire massive readership,” said Zhukova, unique,” offered Vice Media’s global executive officer of the new venture, with designs, including the matador-inspired Roman Abramovich, is the latest who founded the magazine in 2011. executive creative director Tom her sister-in-law Alexia, cofounder of System outfit worn by Madonna on her recent “Rebel print magazine purchase by Vice “Through Garage’s partnership with Punch. “Garage will bring an arsenal magazine, heading up communications. The Heart” promotional tour in France, followed by in recent years. It bought fashion Vice, we hope to broaden the lens of creative ideas and people to Vice partners are targeting about 15 top specialty wallet-friendly wearable versions for Coutur- through which our audiences are glossy I-D in 2012, and will likely so we are thrilled to help Dasha stores for the resort season, with Colette issimo. exposed to art, architecture fashion follow a similar model of expanding grow Garage’s digital presence and having already signed on as the launchpad Speaking before the show, Stoianova said and design.” Garage’s video and overall digital bring their ideas and collaborations for September during Paris Fashion Week. the Couturissimo collaborations would extend Garage, which is published twice presence as it had for I-D. to new audiences around the globe.” Retail prices for the made-in-Italy range to designers from around the world. The next Anna Ewers covers Although the bimonthly magazine start at about 530 euros, or $595 at current hookups are to be announced at an event in Garage magazine. has a relatively small readership, it exchange, for a kitten-heel pump up to about London in September. — KATYA FOREMAN has been able to trade off the influ- 1,400 euros, or $1,570, for a floral lattice boot. ence of its founder with innovative — MILES SOCHA collaborations. Case in point: For its Moonlighting launch issue, Garage commissioned Could Vincent Darré be planning a career John Baldessari, Raymond Petti- Fashion-Forward move? The interior designer turned his hand bon, Paul McCarthy, Damien Hirst, A garden party was held Monday night to a different profession, that of sales adviser, Jeff Koons, Richard Prince, Dinos in Paris to celebrate MAC Cosmetics’ new Monday evening at the party to inaugurate Chapman and Dr. Lakra to create fashion initiative, this year involving Proenza eyewear designer Thierry Lasry’s Paris tattoo designs — each of which were Schouler. It entails the cosmetics company flagship, as he accompanied friends around permanently inked onto willing par- organically supporting business growth for the boutique he designed. ticipants and photographed by Hedi designers by granting them the possibility Olympia Le-Tan picked out a pale pink pair Slimane. Garage has also included to show or present their resort collection with black wings. “I’m a very pink person,” she a scratch and sniff feature with five during couture week in the City of Light. said. For Farida Khelfa, it was a multicolored celebrated perfumers, who created Lazaro Hernandez said he and Jack flecked design that caught her attention, scents in response to five renowned McCollough had always wanted a stronger although she balked at the 460 euro, or $512, artworks. foothold in Paris. “Everyone’s like, ‘You guys price tag. Actress Eva Ionesco also picked out That kind of thinking is evocative need to be coming to Paris more, and have a model. of Vice’s brand of storytelling. Not some presence here for all the buyers and “I’m crazy about sunglasses. Every time I only will the partnership provide the press,’” he continued. “Pre-collection arrive in an airport I buy a pair,” said Khelfa. “I Vice with an entry to the art world, would be a good opportunity to do that.” couldn’t even tell you how many pairs I have.” So they started talking with MAC. “We sort but it will also allow it to continue its Her husband, businessman Henri Seydoux, of concocted this idea together, really,” said international expansion. Recently, hesitated between more sober designs from Hernandez. the Brooklyn-headquartered media the range of corrective eyewear on offer. By the time the cocktail began, in the early firm struck a slew of deals to grow Guests at the party also included Anna Cleve- evening, Proenza Schouler had wrapped its television channel, Viceland. They land, Arielle Dombasle, Kristina Bazan, Elie Top, about six showroom presentations of a few included partnerships to infiltrate Martine Sitbon and Hervé Leroux. models, “like a mini show,” said McCollough. markets, such as Australia, New Lasry hinted that he could soon be growing “It’s a good way to come out here and show Zealand, southeast Asia, the Middle his presence into new categories beyond eye- support to all the European and Asian editors East and Africa. The headlining deal wear. “I’m working on different projects that are [and buyers] that aren’t in town a lot, espe- was with The Times of India Group radically different in every way from anything cially for pre-collections back in New York, for market entry across digital, mo- I have done so far,” he said. “I’ve done a lot of where we normally do it.” interesting collaborations and sunglasses. It’s bile and TV. In March, Vice unveiled Other guests at the party tucked behind growth plans in Eastern Europe, and time to think differently. The key is to surprise a majestic Left Bank town house included people.” hinted it would expand in Russia by Andres and Lauren Santo Domingo, Betty the end of the year. All he would reveal was that any new Catroux, Bianca Brandolini d’Adda, Caroline categories would have to fit into the bijou — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD de Maigret, Noor Fares and Dasha Zhukova. 540-square-foot space. “That’s a problem. I — JENNIFER WEIL need to think about it,” he said. — ALEX WYNNE Smith and Blanchett photographs by Swan Gallet/WWD/REX/Shutterstock Swan by photographs Smith and Blanchett