Bar Code MILAN — Robust, Textured Sweaters Have Been All Over the Runways of Milan, As Designers Focus on Clothes for Leisure Rather Than Work

Page 1 Tuesday s EXCLUSIVE: Balenciaga MILAN MEN’S: More opens men’s store reviews including

in Paris, page 10. s Gucci and ermenegildo Zegna, pages 6 to 10. FASHION: Resort from Jean Paul Gaultier,

(right), Chloé, s EYE: Catching up Viktor & Rolf and with actress Julia s akris, pages 4 and 5. Jones, page 16. MILAN men’s collections/spring 2011 Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • June 22, 2010 • $3.00

WReady-to-Wear/TextilesWDTUESDAY Bar Code MILAN — Robust, textured sweaters have been all over the runways of Milan, as designers focus on clothes for leisure rather than work. In the collection she showed Sunday night, Miuccia Prada delivered her own take on chunky knits, with thick, candy-colored bands married to marine stripes. For more on the Milan men’s collections, see pages 6 to 10. Digital Versus Print: Brands Rush to Web, Just Not to Advertise By Lisa Lockwood The WoRlD is oNliNe — yeT fashioN brands are still reluctant to advertise there. ad experts say that even as fashion brands shift more of their marketing spend online, they aren’t clamoring to place their ads on the Web as much as they are using it for e-commerce, blogs, posting news about their brands and building social networks. among the reasons are: • impactful fashion imagery doesn’t translate as well online. • There is too much clutter on the Web and their ads don’t stand out. • it’s debatable whether online fashion ads actually move merch. “look at the initial forms of advertising online — window ads and banner ads, they’re See For, Page 12 photo by davide maestri davide photo by 2 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 22, 2010 WWD.COM Retailers Buoyed by Strong Father’s Day By Jean E. Palmieri fifth avenue, reported, “over father’s day, we sold buy-now, wear-now and pre-fall well. top WWDTUESReady-to-Wear/TextilesDay ShopperS turned out for father’S day, categories were dress shirts, knit shirts and lifting the spirits of retailers and affording them men’s accessories. our own brand, Saks fifth FASHION the opportunity to meet or exceed plan. tailored avenue Men’s Collection, led the way, and we clothing and dress shirts, along with knitwear, were very pleased with new categories of busi- 6 The Milan shows are more about casual pursuits were among the bestsellers for most stores, stok- ness being rolled out, most recently shoes and than power suits, with the runways offering up ing further confidence that the upcoming fall accessories. We expect the trends that have leisurewear, denim, sweaters and informal takes season will be healthy. emerged thus far in spring to continue for fall on tailored clothing. “It was a little better than we anticipated,” — with particular strength in tailored clothing, GENERAL said Lou amendola, chief merchandising offi- shoes and accessories.” cer for Brooks Brothers. “Business was strong Jonathan Greller, senior vice president and 1 Ad experts say that even as fashion brands shift during the week leading up to father’s day and general merchandise manager of men’s wear more of their marketing spend online, they aren’t much stronger than in the past when it has been for Lord & taylor, said, “the total men’s busi- clamoring to place their ads on the Web as much a friday to Saturday event.” the bulk of the ness continues to see positive growth. however, as they are using it for e-commerce, blogs, posting business came from the stores rather than the this past week we saw midsingle-digit growth news about their brands and building social networks. Internet, he noted. through Sunday versus the double-digit increas- Shoppers turned out for Father’s Day, lifting the among the top performers, he said, were es we had been seeing.” although the volume 2 tailored clothing and neckwear, both of which remained strong, the final percentage gain was spirits of retailers and affording them the opportunity posted “nice increases over the previous year.” “less than we would have liked.” to meet or exceed plan. although ties are an expected gift item, the he noted the consumer continues to look for Balenciaga this week unveils its first freestanding strength of clothing was unusual. “It was a bit of a value, with the biggest increases coming from 10 men’s boutique, a 650-square-foot unit on the Left surprise,” he said. Knitwear was also a standout. short-sleeve ts, short-sleeve sport shirts and Bank here with a graphic and otherworldly decor although its semiannual sale kicked off Monday, shorts. also strong were Black Brown 1826, tommy meant to evoke a submarine. Brooks Bros. ran some one-day specials in the Bahama, casual and tailored contemporary and weeks before father’s day to draw traffic. “It denim collections. however, the store was less EYE wasn’t about the item that promotional than last year, Time was when donning the same — or a was on sale,” he said. “It which was a positive. “We s 16 similar — dress as another partygoer, even a was more of a way to draw won’t sell merchandise few weeks between outings, was a serious breach them into the store.” and the below cost,” he said. “We of social etiquette. Clearly, such concerns are strategy worked. “Customers have to stay the course. We Samantha no longer relevant. did come out and shop,” feel positive that we can get Rosen amendola added. “We ex- the momentum back.” ceeded plan, and in this day although he remains Classified Advertisements...... 15 and age, that’s exactly what cautious in this “volatile” To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is we want.” environment, Greller said [email protected], using The individual’s name. as a result, he is opti- he was “excited for fall to WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. mistic about the future. “It come. the merchandise VOLUME 199, NO. 130. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except for Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one tells me consumers are in- looks great and we know additional issue in January, May, June, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, August, September and terested in shopping again. we can do better. this past November, and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: they’re still uncertain, but week was just a blip.” S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; unlike before, when they Accessories from the Saks Fifth Avenue Men’s neal Black, chief execu- Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional were unwilling to shop, tive officer of Jos. a. Bank mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration Collection performed well for the holiday. No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, now, when it comes to the Clothiers, said promotions Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North 11th hour, they’ll get out and shop.” are fueling sales right now. “I think things are no Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: for fall, he expects some new items and cat- longer getting worse, but they are not getting bet- Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that egories such as the back-to-college collection, ter yet,” he said. “We’re at the bottom and it is your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If to lure customers to the cash register. “our in- still taking a lot of aggressive promotional activi- during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with ventory levels are so low and in control, there’s ty to motivate the customer to buy. I don’t see that your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S no reason to panic. We’ve been able to predict changing before the end of the year. Customers WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 the business and we’re on plan. our fall projec- are cautious and they want good value and they or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened tions are not overly optimistic, so they should be want their purchases to be a good investment. companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these achievable,” he said. We’d like to be a little less aggressive, but I don’t offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. Michael Celestino, executive vice president see that happening this year.” WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND of stores for Barneys new york, was also up- tom Whitney, general merchandise manag- TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART beat. noting that father’s day “took more of a er of darien Sport Shop in darien, Conn., said WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED traditional vein” this year, Barneys did well with sales were up in the double digits over last year TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED shirts, ties, briefcases and watches. But some “on much less stock.” he cited clothing, par- MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. “quirky” things also performed, such as $24 ticularly sport coats, as a standout, along with World Cup-themed flip-flops, the top sellers of dress shirts. Knits, which have been good all which were the u.S. and england. season, continued to do well from Johnny o and DAILY “the men’s business has been impacted by Collared Greens, as well as technical golf shirts the recession, and to see men purchasing dress from peter Millar and Bobby Jones. QUOTE Every client who walks apparel is encouraging,” he said. “at some point, also leading to his optimism is the fact that that means they’ll start buying clothing again. the store was able to sell at full price. “overall, through our door“ is essentially yelling, they’re heading back to a more dressed-up we’re very happy and optimistic about the bal- [mode] and that’s good for all of us.” ance of the year,” he said. “We’ve found that the ‘Facebook.’ They want the Web, but don’t tom ott, senior vice president and general customer is responding to new brands and new merchandise manager of men’s wear for Saks ideas so we have to give that to them.” know how to use it. — Neil Kraft,” president of Kraftworks. Page one. Schönberger Named to Adidas Sport Style Post CORRECTION Clarins Groupe uSa will launch its new Vital Light antiage creams By Lisa Lockwood ing certain that we cover the global markets of exclusively at Macy’s in early September. the launch store was performance and style. Bringing Mr. Schönberger misidentified in an article that appeared on page 8, friday. dIrK SChonBerGer haS Been tapped aS on board the Sport Style division highlights our creative director of the adidas Sport Style division. desire to be at the top of the lifestyle fashion mar- In his new role, he will lead the creative di- ket, as well as supports the overall aim of adidas TODAY ON rection for adidas’ various divisions that target to be the leading sports brand in the world,” said the lifestyle and fashion consumer, namely y-3, erich Stamminger, member of the executive originals, adidas SLVr, porsche design Sport board of the adidas Group, Global Brands. and neo. Schönberger, who was born in Cologne, “adidas has been a part of all my life — grow- Germany, attended the eSMod fashion school in WWD ing up in Germany, it has been super influential. Munich. he worked three years as an assistant .com of course, it always remained and still is one of at dirk Bikkembergs in antwerp, Belgium, and • Ongoing coverage of men’s

my favorite brands,” said Schönberger, who will be Italy. Known for his eye for details and tailoring A fashion week in Milan, based at adidas headquarters in herzogenaurach, skills, he launched his own men’s wear collec- en including reviews, full runs Germany, and will report to hermann deininger, tion in 1996 and followed in 2002 with a women’s ADDAL of show, backstage images chief marketing officer of adidas Sport Style. wear line. Both lines no longer exist. he later M

the adidas organization is divided into two became creative director of Joop in hamburg, De and Fashion Scoops LLA divisions: Sport performance, whose focus is on Germany. he showed his final collection for e • All the looks from the soccer, running, basketball and other global per- Joop in January. In addition, Schönberger has

I SAB Viktor & Rolf, Chloé, Jean y

formance categories, and Sport Style. designed the clothes for Mick Jagger and Keith B

o “Within the adidas Group, the Sport Style richard’s “40 Licks” world tour, as well as u2’s T Backstage at John Varvatos. Paul Gaultier and division has become a significant asset in mak- “elevation” world tour. Pho Akris resort collections WE MEAN BUSINESS. PHOTO BY DAVIDE MAESTRI 4 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 22, 2010

Viktor & Rolf Jean Paul Gaultier

For more looks from the collections, see WWD.com.

Viktor & Rolf

Jean Paul Gaultier

From the French Riviera to Capri to North Africa — designers went on a world tour for inspiration this season and came up with everything from postcard prints and racy lacing details to Worldly Ways pantsuits with a colonial feel. WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 22, 2010 5 WWD.COM

Chloé Chloé Akris

Akris PAVESI DOMINIQUE MAITRE AND GIOVANNA JOHN AQUINO, BY PHOTOS

Viktor & Rolf: Inspired by post-World War II scenes harem pants to a military jacket and pants revved knee patches are worn with a feminine silk blouse and of dressed-up ladies on the French Riviera, Viktor up with racy corset lacing in back. Gaultier also layers decorative details include whipstitching. Horsting and Rolf Snoeren opt for classically tailored three jackets into one or weds a military shirt to pantsuits with a colonial air. The Viktor & Rolf duo a corset dress. Akris: Albert Kriemler looks to Capri and the style of also serve up ruched LBDs in contrasting tones, such Brigitte Bardot’s character in Jean-Luc Godard’s 1963 as black and white, or in matte with shiny fabrics. Chloé: Hannah MacGibbon is playing sports for Chloé film “Le Mépris” for inspiration this season. The designer pre-spring, adding scuba, judo and motorcycle brings scenic postcard images of the island to life in Jean Paul Gaultier: For pre-spring, the globe-trotting elements to a slightly retro lineup in her favorite crisp shirtdresses and quirky pants. For the serious Akris designer takes a fashion tour of North Africa. Looks neutrals — cream, beige and khaki. There are little customer, he focuses on sharp tailored suits and cool range from an A-line trenchcoat paired with fluid kimono jackets, while zip-waist leather pants with asymmetric tops with a modern minimalism. 6 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 22, 2010

Prada Gucci Gucci

Prada a D Miran O Maurici D an

re T inique Mai OM ri, D ST Mae e D Davi ni, O Giann vanni O Gi BY PHOTOS

The Milan shows are More abouT casual pursuiTs Than power suiTs, wiTh The runways offering up leisurewear, deniM, sweaTers and inforMal Takes on Tailored cloThing.

LeisurePrada: Someone was bound to usher in Hence, they accessorize C with reflectiveLass all novel enough, yet familiar enough. Sharp faux-denim suits of silk-mohair a revival of the three-button suit, and it athletic sunglasses, initialed waist This collection might not have been blends were accessorized with crushed- should surprise no one if that someone pouches and clunky shoes that have a one of Prada’s most cohesive, but it silk scarves, Berber-inspired jewelry turns out to be Miuccia Prada. Don’t try sneaker sole fused to a rope sole, fused was crackling with fresh ideas and and streamlined horse-bit loafers. Shoes fishing around the back of the closet, to a wing tip. youthful energy. also included a more casual loafer with though, because the last time the three- Other boys appeared headed to an extended sole, a moccasin and a rope- button was in style, it sure wasn’t slim- medical school, mixing their hospital Gucci: Reveling for a second season in sole sandal. Leather and suede jackets fitted like Prada’s. scrubs with their street clothes. And some Gucci’s Seventies heyday, Frida Giannini came in safari and motorcycle styles, Whether the statement truly also donned roomy workwear of dark conjured young jet-setters hopping heightening the sense of wanderlust. For influences the course of the suit market, denim, which Prada used for suits as well. between Rome and Marrakech, an evening, Gucci’s equestrian icons formed we shall see. Furnished with ties and Terrific ribbed sweaters were stacked appealing concept that united urbane patterns in silk jacquard jackets, worn shirts, the suits created the impression with vivid, Lifesaver stripes. And just sophisticates with luxe bohemians. with white trousers and velvet loafers. of young men heading into the workforce for variety, the collection had culottes, Suede shorts, embroidered cotton shirts Giannini’s escapade delivered a clear for the first time — they’re guileless and boatneck sweaters and shirts with and oversize, loose-weave sweaters message of craftsmanship, heritage and haven’t learned the rules of dressing yet. brightly colored plackets and collars — evoked an extended Saharan holiday. savoir vivre. WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 22, 2010 7 WWD.COM

MILAN 2011 collections/spring men’s

For more full runs of collections and up-to-the-minute news, see WWD.com.

Ermenegildo Zegna

Ermenegildo Zegna: Basking in the success FASHION SCOOPS their unity has yielded, second- and third- generation Zegnas took a bow at the close of Daniel Brühl the label’s powerful centennial show as the audience rose to its feet. Indeed, la famiglia is at Zegna’s core — and is its secret to business longevity. The show consisted of the signature line and the fashion-forward Z Zegna label and drew an extended family of industry bigwigs, including Domenico De Sole, Robert Polet, Allen Questrom, Burt Tansky, Santo Versace, Armani’s John Hooks and Ferragamo’s Michele Norsa. As if flaunting its men’s wear dominance, the house sent out a battalion of models (nearly one for each year the company has been in business) down the runway at La Triennale, where the label is staging its “100 Years of Excellence” retrospective. The fashion offer for worldly gents seeking European Giannoni Giovanni flair was rich. A textured seersucker suit opened the Ermenegildo Zegna section and

set a savvy sartorial tone, while seemingly Photo by weightless jackets and linen trousers PLAIN IN SPAIN: “Inglourious showed off the house’s tailoring talent. Basterds” star Daniel Brühl has just Saddle stitching and leather piping on completed a new book on Barcelona. technical outerwear pieces and loosely tied “It’s a city guide to Barcelona — it’s leather belts added an eccentric touch to not great literature. I didn’t want to the ultrasophisticated wardrobe. write something pretentious, just The Z Zegna line was introduced with something simple, seen though my a swift drawing of black curtains from eyes, that I hope people will enjoy,” the glass roof of the Triennale Brühl said at the Ermenegildo Zegna room, which caused a near show on Monday. The actor, who is greenhouse effect as half German, half Spanish, said he temperatures soared was off to Spain to film “Intruders” inside. Creative director alongside Clive Owen, but not Alessandro Sartori without a pit stop in Paris. “I’m paraded slim-lined, going to watch Spain play [soccer] in lightweight tailoring a tapas bar in Paris,” he said. in chalky whites, Jean Reno, however, wasn’t slate grays and brick feeling the national pride when it tones to a driving came to France’s performance in the techno beat. The FIFA World Cup. “It’s embarrassing. collection felt easy They need to stop behaving like and breezy. Jackets fools,” he sniped. — three-button, double-breasted FACE TIME: Matteo Marzotto is taking or deconstructed on a new role: model. The Italian — looked fresh with entrepreneur reviving the Vionnet slim trousers or jeans. brand agreed to pose for the Swiss Zegna’s reputation for luxury brand Philip Watch, as the luxurious fabrics was on company is making a donation to full display throughout — the Foundation Marzotto, which was from luscious cashmeres and created to research cystic fibrosis. sleek silks to high-tech mixes The ads will appear starting July 12. incorporating paper or nylon. One Z Zegna The Zegna family takes its bow. s hundred years old never looked so good. FOR MORE SCOOPS, SEE PAGE 15. 8 WWD, tuesday, june 22, 2010

Etro Roberto Cavalli

Gianfranco Ferré D&G

Moncler Gamma Bleu Gianfranco Ferré: Designers Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi made a crystal clear fashion statement with MILAN a fine East-meets-West collection. The tailoring men’s collections/spring 2011was mostly double-breasted in neutral hues, ticking stripes or dry, rough-hewn textures. Meanwhile, Southeast Asian tunics, Indonesian ikats and shantung tuxedos brought a taste of the East. re t Moncler Gamma Bleu: Thom Browne shook off his habitual stone-faced seriousness and gave in to freewheeling playfulness with a bicycling- Mai inique themed spectacle inside a Thirties velodrome. om a, D a,

The collection combined lightweight, technical d outerwear with Browne’s unmistakable tailoring, Miran

all styled with the streetwise and pragmatic o layering often seen on today’s urban riders. After walking a lap, the models mounted bikes, and

their Windbreakers filled with air. Maurici ni, o

D&G: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana served up a D&G collection as uncomplicated vanni Giann vanni

and pleasant as a picnic on the grass. Models, o shod in canvas slip-ons and toting groceries, trod ri, Gi ri,

down a verdant lawn. Ginghams of varying scale st and vintage vacation prints harked back to happy e Mae e

childhoods and Fifties suburban dads. Roomy d pleated pants all came rolled up and a little distressed. Pastel evening jackets were the only precious items, and even they went along with

washed whites that begged for grass stains. Davi BY PHOTOS WWD, tuesDay, june 22, 2010 9 WWD.COM

Etro: With a giant tree as a backdrop and a runway of fake lawn, Brioni Kean Etro unfurled another festive romp, this time focused on the house’s iconic paisley prints. The designer whipped up endless variations for a variety of moods and occasions, from a fiesta-at- the-beach moment to an urban weekend. Etro worked the squiggly patterns in both primary shades and muted sunset tones that looked best on wispy cotton shirts and Bermuda shorts, usually tossed together. Cotton pants, sharp suits, T-shirts and raincoats were all plastered with you-know-what, leaving the audience a little paisleyed-out.

Roberto Cavalli: Roberto Cavalli is never shy about flirting with controversy. The designer tempted fate — and patience — by blowing air kisses before his open-air show Sunday night as the audience cowered under a menacing sky. And then he opened with three women enveloped in black abayas and brandishing torches. The flamboyant designer said a recent trip to Indonesia inspired the collection. That translated into ethnic motifs splashed onto sarouel pants and silky shirts. It worked best For full when Cavalli riffed on a more familiar Euro-rocker theme with sharp tailoring, runs of show showing off his sartorial flair. However, and up-to-the- scintillating embellishments cascading minute news, down tuxedo lapels and metallic appliqués for a reptilian effect on the backs of see WWD. jackets were perhaps a bit bling for the com. current climate.

Brioni: The Italian label, which celebrates its 65th birthday this year, is out to extend its classical sartorial leadership to the off hours — and to a younger clientele. “I really want the same level of style and quality for the weekend as we have in the boardroom,” said Jason Basmajian, Brioni’s creative consultant. Tailored looks for spring prevailed, but were worn slimmer and in zippy colors inspired by David Hockney, such as French blue, or in casual fabrics, such as denim or linen, blended with silk. In lieu of a T-shirt, Basmajian put lightweight sweaters under suits and proposed leather sneakers — albeit ones with hand-hammered leather — in lieu of brogues. “I think we’ve taken 10 years off the man,” he declared.

Corneliani: Corneliani made its Milanese debut in the verdant cloisters of the Corneliani 16th-century Leonardo Da Vinci National Museum of Science and Technology. It was a fitting venue for a Canali Costume National lineup — inspired from air, earth, fire and water — that struck a good balance between natural fabrics and cutting- edge tailoring, the house’s signature. A creamy suede trench and softly tailored jackets in pale grays worn over sumptuous knitwear were among the knockout pieces, while a parade of classic suits — seersucker, double- breasted or pinstriped — had all the right elements.

Neil Barrett: Neil Barrett, who shuns trends for an individualistic vision, has plied his aesthetic on recurring themes like the tough biker looks, a rocker vibe and military accoutrements. This time, the new wrinkle was, well, wrinkles. Elongated jackets, blouson styles, vests and skinny pants all got the crinkled treatment and were played off double-layer sheer tops, military blazers and black bondage-look pants. This same mood, just sexier, carried over into the women’s spring looks that shared the runway. Focusing on skimpy and skinny silhouettes, Barrett sent out black elongated military vests over leather pants and gossamer tops, skintight minidresses with leather strips and a jumpsuit with a plunging neckline.

Costume National: Designer Ennio Capasa left rock ’n’ roll behind to explore the corporate world — albeit on his own sartorial terms. Tapered, cropped trousers and shorts were paired with formal overcoats and leather bags roomy enough for a laptop. Capasa’s techno-flavored tailoring — laser-cut natural fabrics, wool jackets with translucent silk panels and glossy and skinny suits — added up to an urbane, slick look for the summer. Still, it’s debatable what Gordon Gekko would think of the translucent T-shirts worn underneath.

Canali: Leave it to an Italian tailor to put the suit back on a pedestal. Returning to the category’s heyday in the Sixties, Canali riffed on the style sense of Federico Fellini film characters for spring. Models in impeccably cut suits of all sorts and oversize fedora hats strutted down the runway, as if heralding the return of the classic suit. Perfectly cut sport coats in taupe, green and mustard added a sprinkle of color to the otherwise classic offering of beige, black and blue. Meanwhile, a parade of white and beige Neil Barrett dinner jackets over black trousers made for a delightful finale. 10 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 22, 2010 WWD.COM Balenciaga Opens Men’s Store in Paris By Miles Socha exclUSIVe PARIS — Balenciaga this week unveils its first freestanding men’s boutique, a 650-square-foot unit on the Left Bank here with a graphic and otherworldly decor meant to evoke a submarine. Designer Nicolas Ghesquière once again collaborated with French artist Dominique- Gonzalez Foerster on the unit, an illuminated gangwaylike staircase leading shoppers up to a showcase for ready-to-wear, leather goods, shoes, sunglasses and jewelry. “It’s definitely a concept made for men. It’s not a masculinization of the women’s concept,” said Isabelle Guichot, Balenciaga’s chief executive officer. Diode lighting, cube-shaped display units and a sliding metallic door on the fitting room all reinforce a high-tech, scientific ambience. The windows, always enigmatic chez Balenciaga, feature a curtain of perforated metal and a glimpse of the staircase and its vivid banister. The boutique, which opens Thursday and follows dedicated men’s corners in Osaka, Tokyo, Paris and London, reflects the French firm’s new dedication to company-owned retail and steady growth and product expansion in men’s categories. Balenciaga men’s wear is available in about 150 points of sale worldwide, most of them Views of the new Balenciaga multibrand boutiques. The four dedicated corners are at Hankyu in Osaka, Seibu Shibuya men’s store in Paris. in Tokyo, Harvey Nichols in London and Printemps in Paris. Ghesquière, who catapulted Balenciaga with his experimental and futuristic approach to women’s wear, extended his creative purview to men’s in 2004, taking a wardrobe approach and slowly layering on other categories. Guichot noted that travel bags, including trolley-style luggage, represent the company’s latest growth vector. The brand has discovered that its substantial women’s leather goods offer also speaks to men. “The only category we haven’t touched so far for men is fragrance,” she noted, describ- ing it as a “future” project. Guichot declined to discuss figures but said Balenciaga men’s wear performs “very well in Japan because it’s probably one of the most fashionable markets for men.” She characterized Balenciaga men’s wear as a key category as the brand expands into China. Balenciaga men’s wear is showcased in several of its larger boutiques, namely Milan, New York, Los Angeles and Shanghai. The historic Paris flagship at 10 Avenue George V previously carried some men’s wear; however, the unit is currently undergoing a two-step renovation. A new store design, dedicated only to women’s categories, will be unveiled in September, Guichot noted, adding that forthcoming boutiques in Beijing and Las Vegas CityCenter will also feature dedicated men’s departments. Located at 5 rue de Varenne, the Balenciaga men’s boutique arrives amidst a flurry of new designer addresses on the Left Bank, which range from Polo Ralph Lauren’s mega flagship on Boulevard Saint Germain to a new APC unit next door. Guichot allowed the Balenciaga men’s store is a “destination,” albeit steps away from a concentration of high-end shops — from Le Bon Marche, which is expanding its men’s department this fall, to banners such as Paul Smith, Arnys and, coming soon, Hermès. While Ghesquière has showcased a few men’s looks on the runway in 2008, he’s mostly taken a low-key approach, dressing certain French cinema figures for red-carpet mo- ments — including Romain Duris, Tahar Rahim, Yvan Attal and Roschdy Zem — and presenting new collections by appointment in the firm’s showrooms here, with the spring range to be unveiled later this week.

Woolrich Woolen Aquascutum more from the shows... Mills Trussardi: “I wanted to Diesel signatures as micro patterns revisit the Nineties,” said Black and a palette of black and designer Milan Vukmirovic, Gold navy. Unstructured seersucker whose wearable take on and worsted jackets had soft the era included bright lapels, accompanied by linen unlined cotton knitwear in graduated shades. blazers, leather army jackets, short Vivienne Westwood: Vivienne darted trousers and Westwood’s usual anarchic espadrilles and tribe sported metallic knits, 2011 bags in camouflage paint-splashed denim, MILAN and Native clashing plaids and strips, all collections/spring American prints. interspersed with a tailored men’s mix — complete with braces Diesel Black Gold: Trussardi and checked shirts — that In a wink to sartorial captivated the most. construction, work-in- progress details appeared Giuliano Fujiwara: Coats on the hems of jackets and jackets with intriguing and shirts, such as the Moschino layers and panels played image of a measuring tape. Uomo a leading role in Masataka Meanwhile, the brand’s core Matsumura’s graphic, mostly — denim — was worked black collection. every which way in terms of washes and treatments. Caruso: Stretchy seersucker re.

jackets, jersey polos and T Moschino Uomo: Like an slimmer silhouettes meant eclectic record collection, Caruso’s country gentlemen

Moschino’s youthful spring took a sporty — albeit inique Mai

Woolrich Woolen Mills: In Daisuke lineup went from rock immaculately so — turn for D OM a,

Suzuki’s final collection as creative to pop and racked up a spring. D director before handing over to Mark number of fashion hits.

McNairy, Suzuki referenced Yosemite These included trenchcoats Lab Pal Zileri: Designer Yvan Miran Albino O in the Seventies, embracing the brand’s and Windbreakers in Deuxieme Benbanaste looked to New Americana vernacular with cotton twill vibrant colors and slim, York in the Nineties, “when Maurici

jackets in bold colors, cargo pants and lightweight suits with bright the money was flowing,” for ni, bandana-inspired prints. piping for well-dressed this boyish, color-drenched O groupies on the go. collection, which included Aquascutum: “We plan to expand waxed cotton trenchcoats, Giann vanni

knitwear and casualwear and grab Albino Deuxieme: The rugged Windbreakers and short, O

a trendier guy,” said Aquascutum’s coasts of Normandy inspired Albino d’Amato’s double-breasted blazers with skull-and- Gi ri,

new design director, Joanna Sykes. first men’s wear collection, a focused lineup with crossbones buttons. ST Trim, shortened trenches in crunchy a retro feel as stripes and floral wallpaper prints Mae e

fabrics, deconstructed tailoring and popped up on shirts, shorts and cropped pants. Malo: Malo had a sporty, optimistic feel this D bursts of cheery color on checked season supported by its star player — color Davi

shirts and Windbreakers appear to Cerruti 1881: Designer Jesper Börjesson — which breathed life into a team of retro BY have already set that plan in motion. delivered a slick homage to Richard Gere in ultralightweight, layered knitwear and chunky

“American Gigolo,” blending in such house cotton jackets. PHOTOS WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 22, 2010 11 WWD.COM MEMO PAD REMNICK TO TAKE WIRED ROAD: Hope David Remnick “Elephants Walking Through Grass” — without has a good friend in Silicon Valley with a spare room. authorization. The images appeared in product sold What? No Resort? WWD has learned The New Yorker will partner with at Zara around the world, including a line of casual Adobe to create a version of the magazine for the dresses for $39.90. Brandt alleged the retailer’s not all designers are factory), even noemi at Migo iPad, making it the second Condé Nast title — after use of the unauthorized works has the effect of obsessed with resort. some trucking corp.” she’s learned Wired, which unveiled its trailblazing effort May “undercutting the value of the images” in the fine art can’t afford to be. they’re too much along the way, whether 26 — to eschew the internal-development track market. He is seeking an accounting of profits and busy doing double-time as their specifics — cutting sleeves and work with the San Jose, Calif.-based software a permanent injunction barring the defendants from own production managers. of different sizes, as opposed firm on its full app. This is something of a coup for future use of the images. Viviana Chaves, president lyn devon and Prabal to the same size, at once may editor Remnick and the text-heavy weekly, which, of Zara USA, did not return an e-mail request for gurung reside in that camp. save fabric — to the perhaps according to insiders, had been in line to produce comment by press time. — Vicki M. Young Both preside over tiny, obvious lesson that hastening its app with Condé Nast Digital, the Sarah Chubb- self-financed companies, through one step in the led division responsible for the GQ and Vanity Fair LAGERFELD’S LIBERATION: Even Karl Lagerfeld has though with three full-time production process may cause iPad editions released earlier this year. But that was been bitten by World Cup fever. In today’s edition employees to devon’s two, major problems down the line. pre-Wired. Indeed, in the days following Wired’s of Libération newspaper, which he guest edited, gurung’s staff is 50 percent “When you’ve experienced glittery debut (the app clocked 24,000 downloads Lagerfeld chose to illustrate a piece on the scandal- larger. Both designers expect each crisis once, you’re scared in the first 24 hours and upward of 90,000 to date), wracked French national soccer team with a drawing to add resort next year. to death of it, so you won’t skip sources say Remnick and other of banned French soccer devon had every intention or rush that step again,” she Condé Nast players — who, player Nicolas Anelka sporting of doing so for the current offers. “it’s trial and error.” prior to the launch, didn’t hollowed-out World Cup season. neiman Marcus had now, she boasts, “i’ll go know much about the Adobe soccer ball motifs on his inquired about resort, as talk to the grader, i’ll walk path — started lobbying to head. Lagerfeld’s hand- had numerous of her tony around the garment center get on the Adobe train. Aside scrawled, cheeky slogan and i know from the lure of revenue and reads: “In the long run, everybody, i know a more flashy product, they soccer empties the head.” all the guys on the saw an opportunity to have Other items that made street, the vendors, greater control in the creation the cut in the French it’s my turf. i of their apps: For the Wired daily include a piece on consider myself version, editors worked side former French presidential fashion a garmento.” by side with Adobe staffers candidate Ségolène Royal gurung came to (it obviously helped they campaigning in France’s the business with were both based in the San Poitou-Charentes region, more practical Francisco area and spoke the as well as one on Barack experience, same techy tongue). The Condé Obama and the black having spent five Nast Digital track, on the other tide. Never a person to do front years at Bill Blass hand, is much less interactive. things by halves, Lagerfeld, by Bridget Foley preceded by two “You turn everything over, and who spent the entire at cynthia rowley, they roll you into this kit,” day Monday in editorial private clients who, she where he volunteered for an said one source of the Digital Karl Lagerfeld’s soccer sketch for Libération. meetings at Libération’s says, “go skiing; they go on open production manager’s process. “Editors want to be in Paris headquarters, opted yachts.” they also fund a slot. he already had plans for control of their product making.” to illustrate the entire paper, which, at 14 by considerable chunk of her his own house, “and wanted A spokeswoman for The New Yorker confirmed the 22 inches, is double its usual size and features business. “it’s something they to be prepared.” Jump to magazine is set to work with Adobe on its app but no photographs. Lagerfeld also redesigned the were asking me for, and i this season, and though declined to comment further. Glamour, meanwhile, Libération logo for the 24-page issue, which really wanted to fulfill.” he passed on resort, he’s is sticking with Condé Nast Digital and will make features his self-portrait on the cover. But a happy problem arose: ahead of schedule with fall its debut on the iPad with its September issue. An avowed newspaper nut, Lagerfeld in an larger-than-anticipated fall production. “We gave them As for how Digital feels about it all, a Condé Nast interview shared his aversion to the idea of orders. and when the going July 1 through, like august,” spokeswoman offered: “We wanted to broaden the using “electronic objects” for reading the news. gets good, the good brings he says. “But we’ll be done R&D learning, and by moving The New Yorker to “Quelle horreur,” he exclaims in the story, adding baggage. since devon oversees way, way before august.” the Adobe platform, we will have three titles on the nothing beats good, old-fashioned paper and ink. production, she had a choice since his show, gurung Condé Nast Digital track and two on the Adobe track. “The world could collapse and I would still keep to make. “Better to produce also found time to hit the We are pleased to have multiple options to call upon reading the papers,” said the designer, who early and deliver a perfect fall ’10 road for neiman’s, personally and learn from.” — Nick Axelrod each morning reads the news in English, French and design spring making three trunk and German. ’11,” she concluded. show appearances, LAW OF THE JUNGLE: Famed fine art photographer “Naturally, each language throws a different light “the idea of “I’ll walk in detroit, dallas Nick Brandt, who specializes in African wildlife, on the world,” said Lagerfeld, who also reveals his designing and and Fort Worth. filed a copyright infringement lawsuit against Zara fetish tools for sketching. producing resort around the (his sales manager USA and its parent, Industria de Diseño Textil, also “I use Shu Uemura makeup for drawing, as they along with those Garment did three more.) known as Inditex, and Zara International Inc. on have the most beautiful color palette. Did you know two seemed nutty, still, his Friday in Manhattan federal court. Brandt, whose that in the old days, children’s books were illustrated too much of a risk.” Center primary focus has individual photographs sell from $10,000 to upward using makeup sticks?” asked the designer, who went to keep been on securing of $65,000 a print, alleged the defendants used on to lambast the press for being too self-righteously overhead low and and I know an impeccable two photos — “Lioness Looking Over Plains” and politically correct. — Katya Foreman thus “remain self- production run, sustaining” — she everybody, and rushing into broke even last I know all resort seemed year — devon detrimental to that had cut back on the guys on goal. “i didn’t want Fendi Wins Settlement in Filene’s Case staff when the to take on anything By Vicki M. Young as for the Filene’s Basement case, which also recession hit. For the street, extra that i maybe included as co-defendant retail Ventures inc., its now, a production couldn’t handle,” Fendi has settled a counterFeiting parent when the lawsuit was filed in 2006, Fendi manager — “they the vendors, he explains. lawsuit against the former Filene’s Basement op- expects to receive its $2.5 million by the end of make $150,000, “right now, we eration for $2.5 million, although other related law- the month, which will be paid from Filene’s much more at larger it’s my turf. are in 24 stores suits against different parties are still in progress. bankruptcy estate. in addition, both parties companies” — is out I consider internationally. at according to Michael Burke, Fendi’s chief execu- are barred from selling Fendi product without of the question. this crucial point, tive officer, many of the lawsuits, such as one against Fendi’s written permission. Filene’s was sold to instead, devon myself a i wanted to make Burlington coat Factory Warehouse, originate from syms corp. following bankruptcy. the sole name- is all about diY, sure everything the alleged illegal activities of ashley reed trading plate left under rVi’s umbrella is dsW inc. even if it has meant garmento.” was done right, inc. and its owners, scott and James ressler. executives at rVi and Burlington could not be learning as you go, and delivered on the lawsuits against ashley reed and the reached for comment by press time Monday. and making ample — Lyn Devon time. Because then resslers were filed both in the u.s. and in italy, gerard dunne, attorney for ashley reed and mistakes along the [the clothes] will according to Burke. the resslers in the lawsuit filed in Manhattan way. as the Brown classics/ sell through. i want to build “it is trickier to go after the importer than after federal court, said, “the court found six bags that art history major with two it really carefully and slowly the final retailer. the importer has no assets here, were counterfeit over thousands sold over the intense summers at Parsons and steadily.” When so much as it mostly operates offshore,” Burke said. years. the goods are gray-market goods — legiti- the new school for design of the process falls literally he added the investigation surrounding the al- mate goods sold outside of the u.s. and shipped puts it, “i’m underschooled in his hands to complete, he leged ashley reed counterfeiting operation took here. Most of our goods are from duty free shops and over-worked.” But she has no choice. time to track. “our impression is that a great ma- and Fendi outlets in italy. We don’t believe they knows a good teacher when devon sums it up. “i didn’t jority [of it] was manufactured in china, shipped were counterfeit.” she encounters one, and has intend to become a production to italy and transshipped to the u.s. with fake in- according to Fendi’s Burke, the amount of more or less forced experts in manager,” she says. “i didn’t voices using fake business cards,” Burke said. money spent annually to monitor counterfeiting various points of production intend to become a sales in the Burlington case, Fendi was awarded activity is in the “seven digits.” to mentor her. her request: manager. i didn’t intend to be a $4.7 million contempt judgment in February. “We have people in Brussels, Washington, “talk to me like an idiot.” the one who unclogs the toilet according to a court document, Burlington and Beijing at the lVMh level, and Fendi itself has devon had been de in the studio. But it just comes co-defendant cohoes Fashions inc. had violated staff in hong Kong, rome, new York, Paris and facto mentored by “alex at with running a business.” if a 1987 injunction that prohibits Burlington from tokyo providing additional monitoring,” he said. accurate grading, Mr. Kim resort gets pushed back along purchasing or selling any Fendi-branded product “add all that up and we’re talking 30 to 40 people, at YeB Fashion corp. (her the way, so be it. without prior permission. Fendi is still awaiting a which doesn’t include prosecution, which [comes decision on damages on its counterfeiting claims. under] a separate budget.” 12 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 22, 2010 For Fashion Brands, Print Still Matters Continued from page one (which includes online publications, video, search en- so miniscule. Yo u couldn’t get your message across. gine keywords and e-mail) versus $111.5 billion in print, They [fashion brands] couldn’t grasp we were going into such as newspaper and magazine ads. Overall U.S. A MULTIPLATFORM APPROACH a new world,” said David Lipman, owner of ad agency spending on advertising and marketing will increase Smart marketers acknowledge they need to be where the Lipman. He noted some nonfashion brands have suc- in 2010 by 1.2 percent to $368 billion, according to the customer is — whether that’s mobile, online, outdoor, cessfully used rich media online, such as creating take- Outsell study. network TV, cable or print. They say it’s essential to overs, 3-D animation and dynamic motion. “Bigger mass As the economy has improved, fashion magazines integrate their online and offl ine activities as part of their brands were doing that. Fashion brands were way be- have witnessed a slight return of advertisers even with marketing-advertising program. For example: hind. They were stuck with banner ads,” said Lipman. the digital boom. For the fi rst half, magazines experi- Executives see several different futures for fashion enced an upswing in ad pages, compared with a disas- • Polo Ralph Lauren recently ran a Ralph Lauren advertising, depending on a customers’ age, attitude and trous 2009, but they’re still off from 2008. Marie Claire, Collection gatefold print ad inviting readers to view comfort level with the digital world. In many scenarios, Harper’s Bazaar, Vanity Fair, Cosmopolitan, InStyle, the runway show and behind-the-scenes video on print remains a core buy, especially as the Ralph Lauren app on the iPhone or to visit a way to reinforce a luxury image and ralphlaurencollection.com. sell merchandise, but it’s now only one • Michael Kors continues to advertise in print, but the part of a multichannel platform that Web is a major focus through initiatives such as its mixes print, online, outdoor, mobile, Facebook page, with over 59,000 friends, and posting the TV and social networking tools such as brand’s look book online. Facebook and Twitter. • Donna Karan supports its traditional print advertising The whole defi nition of advertising with online, digital and mobile opportunities to reach a is being turned upside down. Brands variety of age groups. Their Twitter feed, DKNY PR Girl, are beginning to create their own for example, has 120,961 followers. “editorial” content online in efforts to market themselves and build their • Boosted by its growing use of social networking, one-third own audiences and databases. They of A|X Armani Exchange’s ad media budget is dedicated are increasingly shifting spending to spending online, up from only 10 percent in 2005. The from traditional advertising to fund- company just launched A|X Stylepad on its Web site, which ing their own Web sites. features interactive branded content and a digital portfolio For luxury advertisers — whose of models and images, as well as a link to sections of the seasonal ads with beautiful mod- Web site where customers can shop. els photographed in fabulous loca- • The majority of Tommy Hilfi ger’s media spend is still tions in the past made the March and in print, “but over the last year we have more than September issues of fashion maga- doubled the budget zines as thick as telephone books and we allocated toward where “positioning” has always been digital space,” said pivotal — the migration to the Web Avery Baker, executive has been slow to come. Ad executives vice president, noted advertisers who have tried to global marketing and imitate their print ads online haven’t communications. had much success since online ads The company need to offer an experience — a call partners with sites to action with various links to engage such as Style.com, readers. In essence, it’s a totally dif- Glam.com, the New ferent ball game. York Times, Polyvore “Marketers in general are strug- and Pandora. gling with the transition [online], par- ticularly categories that have been very reliant on traditional media in the past,” said Tim Calkins, clini- cal professor of marketing at the Kellogg School of Management at Northwestern University. “If you’ve Print ads still deliver the imagery that fashion brands seek. been very dependent on print and TV historically, it’s challenging. Part of the challenge is creativity, especially with image-driven categories. How do you do that on the Web successfully?” For fashion advertisers in print $111. 5 BILLION Fashion magazine ad pages were publications, “the advertising is part up for the fi rst half of 2010. of the experience. In the online space, AMOUNT COMPANIES WILL SPEND ON PRINT IN 2010. it’s not the case,” he said. Calkins be- (SOURCE: OUTSELL INC. STUDY OF 1,008 ADVERTISERS) investment of the client’s lieves there’s a deep understanding time. They have to invest of how traditional print and TV work, in people [to manage it].” which is more uncertain online. “In Echoing others, Kraft a sense, it’s a scary change, and it also opens up enor- Vogue, Allure, Elle and Lucky were all up in said the rush to the Web mous opportunities. It gives marketers a chance to in- ad pages for the fi rst half, with gains rang- reminds him of when out- teract with the consumer on a deeper level. There’s a ing from 2 to 22 percent, according to Media door advertising began, new level of communication and involvement. The tran- Industry Newsletter. and everyone thought sition is under way, and you can’t stop it. All you can do Magazines continue to benefi t from the fact advertisers would aban- is participate in it,” said Calkins. that even though online ads tend to be much don print. “ Yo u still can’t re- A recent study by the Society of Digital Agencies has cheaper than print ones, users tend to ignore place the look and feel of a print ad,” said Kraft. shown a continued upward surge in digital media invest- banners and cancel pop-up ads, fi nding them intrusive “Fashion magazines are one of the few places where ment for 2010. The study showed that 81 percent of brand and disruptive — while a print ad tends to be noticeable. the ads are just as important as the editorial,” said Kyle Fashion advertisers would prefer to Acquistapace, executive vice president of media plan- take over the whole screen with their ning at Deutsch Los Angeles. “Even though a consumer imagery, but readers would obviously can see an entire runway show online, curation matters. Fashion magazines are one of the few get annoyed. That’s why fashion maga- That’s why magazines are important. Fashion [maga- “ zine publishers are greeting the iPad zines] are about telling me what matters and giving me places where the ads are just as important and its fellow e-readers with acclaim a point of view.” since beautiful images and videos (al- He pointed out that current industry formats for on- as the editorial. though iPads don’t support videos in line fashion ads “don’t allow for overwhelming beauty.” ”— Kyle Acquistapace, Deutsch Los Angeles the Flash format) translate well to this However, he believes the iPad is bound to change that. new medium, say advertising pros. “GQ has never looked more beautiful [than on an The iPad offers the best of both iPad]. It’s like looking at PDFs of the magazine. It defi - executives surveyed expected to increase their digital worlds — a digital device that can mirror the appear- nitely ups the game, but you can’t share an article and projects in 2010, and 50 percent will be moving dollars ance and experience of reading a print magazine and, post it onto a social network. There are rights issues.” from traditional to digital budgets. Some 78 percent felt with Internet access, can provide links to the social net- He believes fashion brands need to be advertised in the economy would push more funds to digital media. work phenomenon that is obsessing fashion brands. many different places. “More has to be brought to the For the fi rst time, digital spending is expected to “Every client who walks through our door is essen- party to stay relevant. Things feel important when peo- eclipse print ad spending this year, according to an tially yelling, ‘Facebook,’” said Neil Kraft, president of ple see them in a lot of places. Anybody who has a one- Outsell Inc. study of 1,008 advertisers. Companies will Kraftworks. “They want the Web, but don’t know how to dimensional approach to marketing” will be in trouble, spend $119.6 billion on online and digital strategies use it. What happens with social media is much more of an he said.

FINANCIAL new

14 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 22, 2010 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes and more financial news, see WWD.com / business-news. Retail Stocks Drop on China Currency Policy Change By Evan Clark guarantee a rise in the currency. Wal-Mart Starts Chicago Project a substantial move in the yuan could hit both chinese retaIl StocKS Fell 1.7 Percent Monday, reG- producers and Western consumers as it would make it By Arnold J. Karr istering their steepest decline in two weeks as a switch more expensive to buy goods made in china. “the im- in china’s currency policy raised the specter of higher pact will be very big, as now the profit from textile ex- Wal-Mart StoreS Inc. SaId Monday It IS apparel costs. ports is 7 to 8 percent — less than 10 percent,” said Wang working with the city of chicago on a plan to build the S&P retail Index retreated 7.37 points to 424.42 Zilin, sales manager for the Shandong jiada textile co. “several dozen” stores and create about 10,000 jobs as the dow jones Industrial average held steady, dip- “the seriousness depends on how much the currency in the process. ping just 8.23 points to 10,442.41. rises. We still don’t know what to do. Maybe we will rely as part of a long-term initiative, dubbed the retail decliners included the talbots Inc., down more on the domestic market.” chicago community Investment Partnership, Wal- 5.8 percent to $11.43; j. crew Group, 5 percent to $41.47; In europe, the cac 40 extended 1.3 percent to Mart said within five years it would seek to open Macy’s Inc., 3.4 percent to $20.74, and j.c. Penney co. Inc., 3 3,736.15 in Paris, as the dax rose 1.2 percent to 6,292.97 stores that, in addition to positions within the stores percent to $25.37. among a small group of advancing stocks in Frankfurt and the FtSe 100 increased 0.9 percent to and organization, would create about 2,000 union- was american apparel Inc., which rose 9.3 percent to $1.89. 5,299.11 in london. ized construction jobs to help ease the city’s 11.4 asian markets reacted favorably to indications over the • Jos. A. Bank Declares Dividend: jos. a. Bank clothiers percent unemployment rate. weekend that the yuan would be allowed to float more free- Inc. has declared a 50 percent stock dividend that will the plan also is geared to eradicating three so-called ly in global currency markets. the Hang Seng Index shot up take the form of a 3-for-2 stock split payable on aug. 18 “food deserts” in which 600,000 chicagoans reside with- 3.1 percent to 20,912.18 in Hong Kong, as the SSe composite to shareholders of record july 30. Shareholders will re- out access to affordable groceries, Wal-Mart said. Index rose 2.9 percent to 2,586.21 in Shanghai and the ceive one additional share of common stock for every “While our goals are dependent on our ability to nikkei 225 advanced 2.4 percent to 10,238.01 int okyo. two shares owned, increasing the number of outstand- site and build stores in a timely fashion, we remain But experts are still debating the importance of ing shares to about 27.5 million from about 18.4 mil- confident that we can make a real difference to china’s move, which U.S. textile producers have long lion. cash will be paid in lieu of fractional shares. neal chicagoans in need of a job and those who seek more called for, arguing that an artificially low currency gives Black, president and chief executive officer, said the convenient access to fresh, affordable food, especially chinese producers an unfair advantage. yuan Gangming move “will enhance the company’s liquidity by making those living in the city’s underserved communities,” of the chinese academy of Social Sciences in Beijing our common shares available to more investors. said Hank Mullany, executive vice president and pres- said the somewhat vague central bank statement did not — With contributions from Kathleen E. McLaughlin and A.J.K. ident of the Wal-Mart north unit of Wal-Mart U.S. anthony Beale, an alderman in chicago’s ninth ward, said, “our city is facing a number of challenges, but most of all, we need good jobs. there is a growing De Villoutreys Touts ‘Sharing’ Versus ‘Competing’ divide between the ‘haves’ and ‘have-nots’ and this ini- By Matthew W. Evans left the fragrance category last year, he said: “this is a tiative has the potential to begin to level the playing clear call to action.” field for all chicagoans.” Beale is working to bring one “I aM not a PerFUMer, I aM jUSt rUnnInG a per- In response, Firmenich teamed with the nPd Group to of the Wal-Mart stores to his community, said Wal-Mart fumery house,” said armand de Villoutreys, who is corpo- survey 1,500 lapsed and non-heavy users of fragrance in the in a statement. according to the statement, the stores rate vice president of perfumery at Firmenich and, as of U.S. the firms found that 32 percent of the 18- to 64-year- would generate more than $500 million in sales and july 1, will move up to president of perfumery worldwide. old population are heavy users and 45 percent are non- property taxes, but Wal-Mart did not break out specifics. He was speaking at the recent WWd Beauty ceo Summit. heavy users. two percent are lapsed, one-year users; 3 per- Wal-Mart said the Wal-Mart Foundation plans to nevertheless, in his present position, de cent are lapsed, two-year users, and 8 percent commit $20 million over the next five years for pro-

Villoutreys led the international teams that ilt are lapsed, five-year users. those who never grams designed to eradicate hunger and curb youth created the fragrances light Blue by dolce b used fragrance represent 9 percent “and are violence in the third most populous city in the U.S.

& Gabbana, daisy by Marc jacobs and Vive arvey probably lost forever,” said de Villoutreys. about 1.2 million meals will be donated to chicago h la juicy by juicy couture. “Forty-five percent of the market is at residents annually, beginning with 200,000 meals for de Villoutreys summed up his view of risk,” he said. “We must focus on the non- children this summer. heavy users,” he added, contending there’s $1 photo by billion to be gained on top of the now $2.5 bil- BEAUTY BEAT lion U.S. fragrance market. the fragrance business on the idea of com- But, he added — of social pressures — Gap Names Tsang to Board petition in the marketplace. “today, it’s not “changes toward…self-consciousness have GaP Inc. naMed KatHerIne tSanG, a toP ex- Armand de Villoutreys about competing,” he said. “It is about shar- grown in importance in the U.S. among ecutive at the Standard chartered plc international ing information and ideas for the good of the women, 44 percent of the lapsed users and bank, to its board. fragrance category. It is about challenging 25 percent of the non-heavy users agree tsang joins the board on aug. 16, which at that ourselves to bring the fragrance consumer CEO SUMMIT with the statement that wearing perfume is time will have 11 members. Based in Hong Kong, back from the brink of disengagement. today BEAUTY not respectful to others. It can offend them. tsang is chairwoman for Greater china [china, Hong is about growing the size of the pie.” 2010 Forty-six percent of lapsed users agree that Kong and taiwan] at Standard chartered and will the prestige fragrance category, according to de wearing perfume is becoming inappropriate at work. help with Gap’s international expansion. china is Villoutreys, has lost $500 million in sales since 2000, “We must reconnect with the true essence of fragrance next on the agenda. with unit sales having dropped from 70 million to 42 mil- — put the pleasure and the emotion back in the bottle,” “Katherine’s successful track record leading and lion, while retail prices have increased by 40 percent. said de Villoutreys. growing a multinational business in china’s flour- the result? When considering that consumers haven’t ishing consumer market makes her a tremendous been trading down to other distribution channels, he Editor’s note: This is another story in the continuing resource to our board as we embark on a new phase said, the whole category has lost consumers. coverage of the WWD Beauty CEO Summit, held at The of international expansion,” said Glenn Murphy, Gap citing the almost two million consumers who have Breakers hotel in Palm Beach, Fla., May 10 to 12. Inc. chairman and chief executive officer.

10 BEST PERFORMERS 10 WORST PERFORMERS

DAILY COMPANIES P/E VOLuME AMt DAILY COMPANIES P/E VOLuME AMt HIgH LOw LASt %CHANgE HIgH LOw LASt %CHANgE

0.54 0.45 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) - 2800 0.50 +17.26 3.71 3.25 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) - 640635 3.25 -9.22

1.94 1.80 American Apparel (APP) 11.5 500885 1.89 +9.25 7.75 6.65 Stein Mart (SMRT) 14.4 192537 6.69 -7.21

815.50 777.00 Asos * (ASC:L) 40.1 555358 801.00 +5.26 11.53 10.12 Bon-Ton (BONT) 9.8 268397 10.16 -6.79

1.94 1.80 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) - 30847 1.89 +5.00 24.78 22.48 Perry Ellis (PERY) 18.1 189747 22.87 -6.61

62.15 59.50 Swatch Group * (UHRN:SW) 4.3 308025 61.30 +4.70 20.94 18.96 Ann Taylor (ANN) 227.8 1978759 19.28 -5.95

42.25 41.00 French Connection * (FCCN:L) - 3721 42.25 +4.32 4.16 3.81 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) - 1038114 3.81 -5.93

43.80 42.24 Richemont * (CFR:VX) 28.9 3951909 43.11 +4.11 12.4 11.15 Talbots (TLB) - 6264956 11.43 -5.77

6.56 6.41 Bulgari * (BUL:MI) - 2384193 6.55 +3.48 2.30 2.15 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 5.9 997422 2.17 -5.65

96.96 94.86 LVMH * (MC:PA) 26.0 1593285 96.58 +3.42 21.22 19.48 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 20.4 1499280 19.66 -5.57

112.95 109.75 Hermès * (RMS:PA) 41.2 114184 112.95 +3.15 19.47 17.85 Collective Brands (PSS) 12.6 2097805 17.98 -5.57

* Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 22, 2010 15 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS PICTURE THIS: Hogan’s Milan presentation on Monday was also an impromptu celebration of the late Dennis Hopper, whose photos were showcased alongside a collection of sneakers and nylon jackets. “Dennis helped me sign Damien Hirst and Ed Ruscha for a bag collaboration. The bags never ended up in production, but we still have the prototypes somewhere,” said Hogan’s Emanuele Della Valle, who met Hopper in Rome 15 years ago through Marin Hopper, a former fashion director for Elle magazine and daughter of Brooke Hayward, Hopper’s first wife. “When I was at Elle, I persuaded my father to shoot some fashion stories. He photographed Alexander McQueen’s collection in Florence with Lee himself styling,” recalled Hopper, who was at Hogan Maestri with her siblings Ruthanna and Henry. “The day I was born, my dad told e D my mom to get out of bed because she had to see some soup cans from a guy called Andy,” she continued, referring to her father’s collection Davi of Andy Warhol’s work. “He had a great eye.” A Dennis Hopper by retrospective, curated by Julian Schnabel, is slated to open July 11 at Los Angeles’ Museum of Contemporary Art. Photos Jim Nelson, Frida Giannini and Patrizio di Marco; Constanza Etro and Kean Etro; Neil Barrett. THE END: Hot on the heels of a similar exhibition at the Musée Maillol, a new show at the Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent Foundation in Paris showcases artistic the way. “No party and no celebrities to worry about. From here, I’m going to the beach in Liguria representations of the human skull. “Vanitas. Death, What Do You Want From Me?” features 60 with my mother,” he beamed. works by artists ancient and modern, ranging from a 16th-century painting by Flemish painter Meanwhile, designers including Brian Atwood, Neil Barrett, Kean Etro, Massimiliano Giornetti, Jan Sanders Van Hemessen to more recent images by controversial American photographers Frida Giannini, Tomas Maier, Margherita Missoni, Andres Serrano and Joel-Peter Witkin. The exhibition, slated to open Wednesday and run to Sept. Alessandro Sartori and John Varvatos were still 19, opens mere weeks after the second anniversary of the legendary designer’s death. Though it waiting their turns to cut loose. “It keeps features examples of memento mori from Pierre Bergé’s private collection, it marks the first time you on your toes,” said Ferragamo’s Giornetti the foundation is showing mainly works borrowed from other institutions. In October, the venue about his schedule, which now includes will switch to lighter fare with a show of flower drawings by David Hockney made using the iPhone women’s wear. That said, Giornetti said he’d and iPad. make time to watch Italy play in the World Cup. “I’m more of a tennis fan, but there are TURK’S TURN: Following in the footsteps of designers such as Narciso Rodriguez and Monique some games you can’t miss,” he said. Lhuillier, Trina Turk has been named this season’s Mercedes-Benz Presents designer, with plans to show her spring swimwear collection July 15 in Miami at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week HAVING A BALL: Fragrance met football Friday Swim. Turk’s collection is inspired by Acapulco in the Sixties and Seventies, an era known for its night as Matthew McConaughey hit Milan’s La glamorous getaways by Hollywood’s rich and famous as well as the international jet set. Rinascente department store, making a personal appearance for Dolce & Gabbana’s The One CAUSE CASUAL: Salvatore Ferragamo is letting its hair down for a good cause. On Sunday night, scent. In town to join the celebrations for the the company launched a line of casual men’s shoes labeled Ferragamo World. It consists of six Italian designer’s 20th men’s wear anniversary, different models, including desert boots, moccasins and sportier pieces, all with a youthful, less McConaughey was accompanied by Brazilian formal feel. The manufacturing process was designed to minimize environmental impact through girlfriend Camila Alves, who sat looking bemused the use of water-based adhesives and processes such as water tanning that take potentially at the screaming fans. Earlier, the screen hunk harmful substances or waste out of the equation. In addition, a portion of the revenues from the confessed he’d watched the World Cup soccer sales of World products will go to Acumen Fund, which provides drinking water and clean energy match pitting the U.S. against Slovenia at the to poverty-stricken countries including India, Pakistan and East Africa. Matthew McConaughey at hotel that afternoon, before sharing its result (a La Rinascente for Dolce 2-2 tie) with the roaring photographer pack. “If AFTER HOURS: GQ’s seasonal Milan soiree, held in the gardens of the Palazzo Clerici on Saturday, & Gabbana’s The One. the U.S. gets to play Brazil, I’ll be there,” he found Calvin Klein Collection’s Italo Zucchelli in a relaxed mood, as his men’s show was out of shouted over the scrum.

WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Spaces COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE HEAD PATTERNMAKER Receptionist/Sales Asst Sales Rep Sptswr Co seeks 15 yr exp’d person to run Better Knitwear Mfr seeks entry level, pattern and sample room – must have self-motivated, flexible indiv. w/strong R A M P A G E sportswear/suit business. Daily duties communication and computer skills. Pls to include delegate, monitor, and eval- e-mail: [email protected] Junior sportswear and dress uate work, work with computerized Showrooms & Lofts patternmaking from development thru company seeks experienced BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS prodn, fits (including working with sales rep. Candidate must Great ’New’ Office Space Avail customers) and communicate correc- SALES ...... $ 80K+ possess the following: ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 tions to various personnel. Must be Layette/Infant to Marmaxx able to communicate with customers, Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212 465 8300 have sense of urgency and be involved [email protected] • Must have strong direct re- in all phases of patternmaking. lationships with buyers and Knowledge of grading and marking is a plus. Send resume to: management [email protected] • Manage branded and private label accounts VP /General Manager • Promote brand growth and Sought for NY-based high-end designer development with new ac- ready to wear collection. As a seasoned counts manager with P&L responsibility you • Develop sales plans and are responsible for the daily oversight 25 million Royalty-Free, CAD-Ready of all operating departments. As a part- strategies; analyze sales re- Textile Designs — 100% Editable ner to the President and the COO this ports Re-color & Visualize in Products! position communicates with them daily • Merchandising skills a must about all significant business activities and advises on business development, PATTERNS, SAMPLES, strategic opportunities and key busi- Individual must have strong PRODUCTIONS ness decisions. Int’l experience is a industry background; highly All line, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. plus. If you are a “hands-on” team motivated, well organized Call Sherry 212-719-0622 player with high energy and enthusi- asm we want to meet you! Qualified and a self starter. Please individuals must send a resume with email your resume only if PATTERNS, SAMPLES, salary history to be considered. you qualify to: PRODUCTIONS Respond to: Full service shop to the trade. [email protected] [email protected] Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 FAIRCHILD CLASSIFIED IS NOW SELF SERVICE! To place a print ad, go to www.fairchildclassified.com For online-only recruitment ads, go to wwdcareers.com 16 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 22, 2010 WWD.COM Step and repeat Time was when donning The same — or a similar — dress as anoTher parTygoer, even a few Clear-eyed weeks between outings, was a serious breach of social etiquette. Clearly, such concerns are no longer relevant. as the spring charity circuit has drawn to a close, a series of airy, voluminous confections from valentino have proved to be Julia Jones the sartorial ubiquitors of the season. Camilla Belle got a head start on the look’s popularity, wearing the dove-grey voulant dress with capelet to an art of elysium event in January. since then, fashion folk Lauren Goodman and Cynthia Smith have given it a whirl at the Junior spring Benefit for the lincoln Center institute and the whitney art party, respectively. smith even brought along her fellow swirl-skirted sister, Sarah, who sported a nude- toned sleeveless side-drape number from the same valentino collection. But Samantha Rosen receives top honors for her dedication to the silhouette’s cause: she wore the house’s sleeveless knit dress with a swing skirt to both the whitney museum’s american art award gala and, a few weeks later, to moma’s party in the garden. if it ain’t broke…

Samantha Rosen

Camilla Lauren Cynthia and Belle Goodman Sarah Smith The ex Files for a guy wiTh a hook nose and Body weighT PAST CREDITS: winstead, who says she’s been “singing that can’t be more than a hundred pounds soaking wet, and dancing since i was a toddler,” broke into Joining The CasT of The Third insTallmenT of “TwilighT,” one michael Cera certainly has a way with the ladies. in “youth the biz in junior high by landing bit parts on local of the highest-grossing movie franchises of all time, would seem to be in revolt,” he romanced rooney mara, and he won over productions of Tv shows like “Touched by an angel” like jumping into a hyper-speed version of double dutch — while wearing martha macisaac in the 2007 hit “superbad.” enter and “everwood.” since then, winstead worked her roller skates. The action figures, the T-shirts, the ubiquitous paparazzi, mary elizabeth winstead, the latest of Cera’s conquests, way up to leading-lady status via a solid list of B-films, the equally ubiquitous (and even more aggressive) Twihards and the rest appearing in the much-hyped “scott pilgrim vs. the world,” including a long string of campy horror flicks such as of the hoopla surrounding the vampire trilogy‚ how could it not make a in theaters august 13. winstead plays ramona, a self- “Black Christmas,” “final destination 3” newcomer anxious? reliant cynic with manic-panic pink hair whose seven evil and “The ring Two.” “i’m a bit of a veteran screamer But none of this seems to faze Julia Jones, one of the new faces in ex-boyfriends unite to challenge her current beau, scott at this point,” she says. “Twilight: eclipse,” which hits theaters June 30. “i was just focused on pilgrim (Cera), to a battle of superhero proportions. (Think ON “PILGRIM”: with her doe eyes and delicate bone working on the character,” Jones says. “i kind of got lost in that. The size light sabers, slo-mo backflips and “Batman and robin”- structure, winstead says her “anime” appearance of the franchise is just hitting me now.” esque “kapows!”) “most guys wouldn’t stick around, but helped her land the role in “pilgrim.” “even though Jones plays leah Clearwater, a werewolf whose overprotective behavior scott does, and that’s really sweet,” says winstead. we’re bringing this cartoon to life, [director edgar toward fellow pack member Jacob (Taylor lautner) has pitted her against surprisingly, the fanciful premise, based on an adult wright] thought Bella (kristin stewart), who broke Jacob’s heart. comic-book series by Bryan lee o’malley, wasn’t so far- it would be kind of fun getting people who Jones, a 29-year-old former model, was shocked when she landed the part fetched for the actress. “i can relate to that feeling of have somewhat cartoonish faces involved to because it was her biggest role and because she committed a major gaffe people making a big fuss over you for what seems like no kind of look like the characters as they’re in her audition. “i left realizing that i had paraphrased my entire audition,” reason at all,” winstead says. “But i mean, i certainly drawn. i never really realized i look like a cartoon she says. “i was so focused on figuring out who the character was that the haven’t had seven ex-boyfriends come after my boyfriend character, but i suppose i do,” says memorization was secondary. The words completely left me. i wanted to die.” or anything like that.” the actress. “i take it as an absolute compliment.” well, it didn’t matter. and Jones also appears as Josh Brolin’s wife here, wwd provides the vital stats on the girl over UP NEXT: winstead will return to the occult in next in “Jonah hex,” a movie out now about a cowboy-bounty hunter that co- whom everyone’s fighting. year’s “The Thing,” a prequel to the cult eighties stars megan fox. flick of the same name starring kurt russell about AGE: 25 an extraterrestrial parasite that comes to terrorize the PROVENANCE: Born in rocky mount, n.C., and raised in people of earth. in the mostly unknown cast, winstead “The words compleTely salt lake City, utah. (no, she’s not mormon, her family plays the female lead determined to save mankind. “my moved for her father’s job.) part is very sigourney weaver in ‘alien,’” she says. lefT me. I wanTed To dIe. ” CURRENT HOME: los angeles — Amanda FitzSimons

— julia jones, on auditioning for “twilight: eclipse” Mary Elizabeth Winstead until “eclipse,” Jones had a modest résumé (a brief stint on “er,” chner son/Getty I a tween movie about a modeling contest in new york, etc.). The Boston eI native did some modeling in high school and college with Clickm odels, rr hA teve

s which didn’t make it easier for her to make friends once she began to zer attend Columbia. during her freshman orientation week, Jones and two new A girlfriends were wandering around union square, only to find themselves Fr

under a billboard with Jones’ face plastered on it. “from that point, that’s others by ll elle by A b sort of where i got alienated from my peers. when you start modeling, you do

all those teen magazines, which is what everybody was reading at the time. oye; b n.com;

so that, combined with the fact that i’d come to class with, like, sparkles in A yler my hair from shoots,” she says, laughing. “i mean, i just looked ridiculous.” ull t

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so Jones decided to take on the time-honored model-slash-actor by d Km A c

title, training 25 hours a week with acting coach susan Batson. “i I tr

found [Batson] through models because she takes pretty people and nste pA

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teaches [them] how to act,” Jones says. “But she was really hard core.” ; n A

(former Batson students include Tom Cruise, nicole kidman, Jamie rrell een foxx and Juliette Binoche.) The experience motivated Jones, an english FA K e I lly I

major who graduated in 2002, to wake up at 5 a.m. to do mailings to n b

agents and run to auditions between classes. by n ste

although she’s appearing in what may be the summer’s biggest movie, A Jones is impressed with the accomplishments of others in her class. “i run by into people that i went to school with now and they’re doing such amazing,

cool things,” she says. her classmates would probably say the same of her. es; Goodm AG Im — Taylor Harris Jones photo