© Lonely Planet Publications 524 Index

4WD, see four-wheel driving Aït Bougomez Valley 290, 329-31, 10 Argana 436 ABBREVIATIONS Aït Bououli 329 Arhermane 443 A ACT Australian Capital Aït Hamza 439 Aroumd 432 Territory Abachkou 437 Aït Haroun 449 art deco 78, 104, 217-18 NSW New South Wales Abdallah, Moulay 378 Aït Igrane 429 art galleries NT Northern Territory Abdelaziz, Moulay 43 Aït Mansour 405, 445 Assilah 141 Qld Queensland Abou Bnar 443 Aït Oudinar 357-8 Ceuta 189 SA South Australia accommodation 450-3 Aït Souka 427 Chefchaouen 203 Tas Tasmania Achmrah 449 Aït Youl 449 302-3, 304-5 Vic Victoria activities 453-6, see also individual Akchour 443 arts 60-74 WA Western Australia entries Akerkour 449 Asni 334 Act of Algeciras 42 Akka 407 Assaka n’Aït Ouzzine 449 Acute Mountain Sickness 502 Al-Akhawayn University 270 Assif n’Aït Mizane 427 Adrar bou Ouzzal 429 Alawites, the 40-2 Assif n’Imenane 427 Adrar Mqorn 444, 445 alcohol 87 Assif n’Moursaïne 429 adventure tour companies 488-9 Algeria 483 Assif n’Ouarzane 431 431 border crossings 226, 287, 289, Assif n’Timellite 430 Afella-Ighir 405-6, 445 475, 483 Assif n’Tinzer 428 Afeska 442 conflict 20, 350 Assif Ouarg Valley 448 375-84, 376, 380 embassies 462 Assif Tifni 428 accommodation 380-1 Al-Hassan, Moulay 392 Assilah 139-44, 140 drinking 382 Al-Hoceima 211-14, 212 accommodation 142-3 INDEX entertainment 382 Ali ben Youssef Medersa 298-9 drinking 143-4 food 381-2 Ali ben Youssef Mosque 299 food 143-4 history 377 al-Krim, Ibn Abd 44 history 139-40 internet access 377 al-Mansour, Yacoub 38, 117 travel to/from 144 medical services 377 Almohads, the 37-9 Atlantic coast 98-166, 99 shopping 382 Almond Blossom Festival 463 climate 100 tourist information 378 Almoravids, the 36-7 history 99-100 travel to/from 383 Alnif 353-4 itineraries 30 travel within 383-4 altitude sickness 502 ATMs 469 Agdal Basin 259-60 Amazigh, the 35 Atougha 446 Agdz 345-6 Ameln Valley 373, 406-7 Auberge Souktana 445 Agerssif 437 Amezrou 347 Aufous 365 Aglou Plage 395 Amsouzert 428, 429 98, 148-9 Agounss n’Tiniline 428-9 Anezale 446 Azib Imi n’Ouassif 429 Agouti 329-30, 437-9 animals 94-5, 424, 440 Azib Likemt 427-9 -Oudad 404 Anmiter 337 Azib Tamsoult 430-1 ‘Ain Leuh 274 Anti Atlas 373, 402-8, 444-6, 374 Azilal 328-9 Aïn Tissimlane 442 Aouli 278 Azilane 442 air travel Aourir 385 Azrou 227, 272-5, 273 to/from 479-82 apartments 450 within Morocco 489 Aphasia 442 B Aït Ali n’Ito 440 archaeology 123, 136, 197 Bab Bou-Idir 282 Aït Alla 440 architecture 74-8 Bab el-Mansour 258 Aït Benhaddou 76, 339-40 art deco 217-18 Bab n’Ali 446, 448 books 77, 108 Bab Taza 444 000 Map pages Modernist 215, 216, 217-18 Badi Palace 302 000 Photograph pages area codes, see inside front cover Bahia Palace 299 argan oil 53, 85, 165 bald ibises 94, 384 INDEX 9

, 525 202

110-11 , 292 190-1 107 102 71 Index (B-C)Index ksour see rental 493-4 rental 495 road rules 482-3, 484-5 to/from Morocco 492-5 within Morocco accommodation 204-6 drinking 207 entertainment 207 204 festivals food 206-7 history 201 internet access 203 medical services 203 shopping 207 Cascades d’Irhoulidene 431 Cascades d’Ouzoud 327-8 Immouzzer 386 Tombe Asmine waterfall 428 Cascades de Ras el-Oued 282 accommodation 192-3 drinking 193-4 food 193 history 188-9 internet access 189 tourist information 189 travel to/from 194 travel within 194 accommodation 108-11 accommodation activities 106 travel with 108 children, drinking 114 entertainment 114-15 108 festivals food 111-14 history 100-1 internet access 103 itineraries 101 medical services 103 travel 103-4 safe shopping 115 tourist information 103 tours 108 travel to/from 115-16 travel within 116-17 walking tour 106-7, carpets 53, 67, 68, 275 carpets 53, 67, 68, 98, 100-17, Casa Mar 411 cascades castles, caves 186, 217, 282 central Morocco 290-372, cell phones 473 ceramics 70-1, Ceuta 167, 187, 188-94, Chefchaouen 167, 201-8, 442, 356

7 see also Cap Spartel 186 Erg Chigaga 351-2 166 Marrakesh 308 Zagora 348 Ouarzazate 342 costs 22 dangers 495 distances 493 driving licence 492 insurance 494 literature architecture 77, 108 Beat writers 177 50 culture 90, 97 environmental issues 179 festivals 85, 87 food 79, 80, 83, health 499 history 38, 43, 44, 46 Islam 34 Sahara, 92, 95 the trekking 418, 419 Algeria 226, 287, 289, 483 Mauritania 410, 484-5 Spain 194, 221 170, 177 Supratours routes 491 to/from Morocco 482, 483 within Morocco 490-2, 495 C Cabo Negro 200-1 Cala Iris 215 calèches 324, 458 calligraphy 74 370, 453, camel treks camping 450-1 canoeing 149-50 Cap Spartel 186-7 Capote, Truman 177 car travel 492-5 Bollywood 61 Bollywood 48, 56, 60, books 23, border crossings 482 Bou-Ahmed 209, 443 Bouarfa 288 Bouarfa Sanctuary Wildlife 96 Boumalne du Dadès 356-7, 446, Bowles, Jane 60 60, 169, 170, 177 Bowles, Paul brochette 83 Burroughs, William 23, 64, 169, business hours 456-7 bus travel 8 11 cycling ferry ferry travel see see Boumalne du Dadès 356 Erg Chebbi 370 Laâyoune 413 Lac de Sidi Bourhaba 133 Merzouga 370 384-5 Souss-Massa National Park Agadir 379 Agadir Plage 395 Aglou Al-Hoceima 212 Assilah 142 Casablanca 106 Ceuta 191 147 El-Jadida Essaouira 160, Melilla 219 Plage Robinson 186 123 Salé 132-3 Sidi Ifni 396-7 Sidi Ouarsik 398 400-2 Plage Tan Tan 179 Tangier 211, 242, 266, 361, 394 books 33 language 422 museum 378 music 64 Larache 137 Plage 398, Legzira Black Guard 42, 259 black market 469 boat travel, Bin el-Ouirgane 332 Binebine, Mahi 61 birds 94-5, 424, 440 birdwatching 453 Beat Generation 60, 170, 177, 181 bedbugs 502 Belghazi Museum 237 37, 296 ben Youssef, Tachfine, Beni-Snassen Mountains 167, 225-6 Berbers, the 32-4, 42-3, 170, 201, Berkane 224-5 275 Berrem Bhalil 254 Biginoussen 430 bicycle travel, Banana Beach 385 Banana 444 apes 95, 274, 442, Barbary Barbary lions 94 Barbary sheep 95 bargaining 472-3 Batha Museum 237 474 bathrooms 460, beaches INDEX CyberPark 304 customs regulations 459 Curso, Gregory 177 culture 48-59 credit cards469 65-72 crafts couscous 84 courses 458-9 costs 22, 471 couriers conversion charts, consulates 462-3 clothing 51 climate change480 climate 21,458 Cirque Jaffar277 cinema, churches &cathedrals 33 Christianity 402 Chleuh tribes children, travelwith457-8 Cherry Festival 464 121 Chellah Chefchaouen 526 000 000 writing 459 writing language 107-8,123,241,307,459 87,241,307,459 cooking cover 409-10 Western Sahara Souss, the375 Mountains168 coast168 Mediterranean 291 Marrakesh cities228 imperial central Morocco291 Atlantic coast100 Anti Atlas375 Tangier 175 Gîte leCathedrale331 224 Berkane Ceuta 189 Tangier 179 123-4 Rabat 307-8 Marrakesh health 503 Casablanca 108 442-44 trekking travel within208 travel to/from207-8 tours 204 information203 tourist

Photograph pages pages Map Index (C-F) see see alsoinsidefrontcover film continued see insidefront cycling 455,489-90, desert 93-4,351,408-9, desert Demnate 325-7 deep veinthrombosis499 dates 366 Date Festival 464 dars 452-3 Dar SiSaid301 258 Dar JamaïMuseum 237 Dar el-Makhzen Dar Bellarj302 dance 73 414-15 Dakhla Dadès Valley 354-63 Dadès Gorge290,357-9 D embassies 462-3 449 El-Mersse Yacoubel-Mansour, 296 IbnAbd43 el-Krim, 443 El-Kelaâ El-Jebha 209 El-Jadida 144-8, el-Glaoui, Thami44 451 electricity El peñóndeAlhucemas212-13 Eid al-Fitr 467 Eid al-Adha467 education 50 40 Ahmedal-Mansour ed-Dahbi, economy 20,51-4 eastern Morocco278-89 coast215-26 east Mediterranean E 499 DVT DVD systems451 drugs 52,210,459-60,468 dromedary treks, driving, 87 drinks Drâa Valley 345-54, Dôme d’Ifni428 Djemaa el-Fna290,298, distances 493 discounts 462 disabilities, travellerswith474 digital photography470 501 diarrhoea Diabat 166 also Tafraoute 402 305 Marrakesh mountain biking Sahara, the Sahara, see cartravel 145 see 15 camel treks camel see also 7 6 , , 14 15

, see events, events, exchange rates, etiquette 49,50-1,462 Essaouira 153-66, MoulayAhmedben er-Raissouli, 363-5, Er-Rachidia Erg Lehoudi 352 Erg Chigaga290,351 Erg Chebbi290,370-2 erg, 365-7, Erfoud environmental issues52-4,90-7 emergencies, embroidery 68-9 festivals 24,463-4 &events Fès Festival 242 ofWorldSacred Music Fès el-Bali232-7 ferry travel485-8, 473 fax services faux guides fantasias 73 Fakhour 440 F trekking 422,456 trekking travelling 496 shopping 472-3 hammams 454 food 84 travel within165-6 travel to/from165 shopping 164-5 safe travel156 157 medical services internet access157 history 155-6 food 163-4 festivals 161 164 drinking accommodation 161-3 Mohammed 142 422-3,456 trekking internet resources 90 91 four-wheel driving books 90,97 air travel480 Erfoud 366 Erfoud Demnate 325 Chefchaouen 204 Casablanca 108 Agadir 382 to/from Spain486-8 to/from Italy488 to/from Gibraltar486 to/from France485 see sand dunes sand see festivals 232,420,461-2 see insidefrontcover 366 see insidefrontcover 154 486 364 , 156-7 ,

11 INDEX 527

Index (F-H) Index marijuana trekking see see 139-40, 155, 170, 377 138-9, 266 215-6, 396 Essaouira 160 Essaouira 454 etiquette 239 Fez Marrakesh 305 402 Tafraoute 179 Tangier Agadir 377 Agadir Alawites, the 40-2 Almohads, the 37-9 Almoravids, the 36-7 Amazigh, the 35 Assilah 139-40 Berbers, the 32-4, 42-3 books 38, 43, 44, 46 Casablanca 100-1 Ceuta 188-9 Chefchaouen 201 Essaouira 155-6 229-31 Fez France Protectorate 43-4, 387 Idrissids, the 36 independence 44-5 international zone 43 32, 44, 46 internet resources Lixus 138 Marrakesh 296 Merenids, the 39-40 Portuguese, 101, the 40, 42, 99, Rabat 117-19 32-4, 117, 121, Roman Empire Saadians, the 40 Safi 151-2 Salé 130-1 Spanish, the 42-3, 168, 187, 194, books 499 insurance 498 498, 499 internet resources Happy Valley 329 Happy Valley hashish, hip hop 73 history 32-47 Hassan, Abu 39 Hassan, Moulay 43 Hassan II 44-5 Hassan II Mosque 105-6 Hassi Labied 370-2 health 498-503 heat stroke 502 hepatitis A & B 500 Hercules 186 423-40 hiking, 12 399 10 Agadir 379-80 Agadir Casablanca 106 Chefchaouen 203-4 CyberPark 304 CyberPark Jardin de Olhão 378 Jardin Majorelle 304 Jardins Exotiques 132 Jnan Sbil 238 304 Mendoubia Gardens 175 445, 461 Erg Chigaga 351-2 Erg Chigaga 352 Erg Lehoudi 361 Dadès Gorge 358, 91 environmental concerns Laâyoune 413 Midelt 275, 277 Ouarzazate 342, 345 404 Tafraoute 372 Taouz Todra Gorge 362 H Had Gharbia 144 Haj, the 467 hammams 76-7, 453-4, G gardens Gaselec Museum 218-19 gay travellers 184, 465 geography 91-4 Ginsberg, Allen 170, 177 gîtes 421, 451-2 464 Gnaoua and World Music Festival Gnawa music 63 Gnawa people 408-9 goats 10, 53, 165, God’s Bridge 443 golf 59 Gorges d’Aouli 277-8 du FriouatoGouffre 282 Goulimime 398-400, Goulmima 363 Goums, the 43 Grand Socco 173-86 grands taxis 495-6 March,Green the 45, 409 Grottes de Chameau 225 225 Grottes des Pigeons guides 297, 420-1, 425, 435, 436, Gysin, Brion 177 French Church 224 French language 510-12 French ProtectorateFrench 43-4, 387 , 246 , 240 234-5 , 230 83, 86 308, 382 464 14 , Aït Bougomez 329 Aït Bououli 329 costs 22, 323 Beni-Snassen Mountains 266 itineraries 31 lunch 83-5 Ramadan 86 vegetarian 79 festivals 180, 308, 464 festivals 62 internet resources books 79, 80, 83, 85, 87 81-2 breakfast cooking courses 87, 241, 307, 459 dinner 85-6 80, 81, 82, internet resources Er-Rachidia 363-5 161 Essaouira 242 Fez film 180, 308, 464 Goulimime 398-9 Marrakesh 308 Meknès 260 179, 204, 242, music 63, 123, 161, Rabat 123 Sefrou 254 Oasis 287 Sidi Yahia 179-80 Tangier 5 accommodation 242-6 drinking 250-1 entertainment 251 242 festivals food 247-50 history 229-31 internet access 232 medical services 232 travel 232 safe shopping 251 tourist information 232 tours 241 travel to/from 251-2 travel within 252-3 walking tour 239-41, football 58 fossils 353, 365-6 fountains 238, 303 four-wheel driving 496-7 flamingos 133, 134, 370, 384 fondouqs 77-8, 303-4 food 79-89, 464-5 Fez 227, 228-53, Fez 288-9 Figuig film 24, 32, 55, 61-2, 175, 184 INDEX hustlers 461-2 hotels 452 hostels 452 454-5 horse riding John177 Hopkins, homestays 451-2 holidays 465-7 HIV/AIDS 500 456 hitchiking International CulturalFestival 464 insurance Inezgane 384 independence 44-5 Inan, Abu39 cities227-89, imperial Immouzzer desIdaOutanane386-7 immigration 54-6 Imlil 334-6,427,431,432,433-4 Imizzar 442 Imilchil 332 Imi n’Ouarg448 439 Imi n’Ikkis Imenane Valley 434 Île deMogador159 446 Ihoukarn Igli 446,448 Ighazoun 448-9 Ifrane 270-2 the36 Idrissids, II36 Idriss I36 Idriss 439 Ichbbakene Ibrouane 429 AbuSalim39 Ibrahim, ibis, Iabassene 434 I history 528 000 000 Todra Gorge361-2 Tangier 179 308 Marrakesh Essaouira 160-1 Diabat 166 375,408-10 Western Sahara Umayyads, the35 Tetouan 195 Tangier 170-2 travel 467-8 medical 467-8,498 car 494 see

Photograph pages pages Map continued baldibises Index (H-L) 228 Izrafene 443 26-31,328,335 itineraries Issaguen 209-10,459 Ismail, Moulay35,41-2,195,256, Islam oasis352 Iriki 427 n’Likemt Irhzer internet resources 25 internet access468 international zone43,170-1 International Film Festival 464 Jebel TaloussisseJebel 444 Siroua391, 428, 444,445-6 Jebel 444 Setsou Jebel 416,446-9, Sarhro Jebel 430 Jebel LekstJebel 406-7,444,445 Lakraa444 Jebel Kouaouch448 Jebel 204,442 el-Kelaâ Jebel 446 BouGafer Jebel 443 Azra Jebel Ayachi277 Jebel Angour434 Jebel Amlal448 Jebel Jardins Exotiques132 304 Jardin Majorelle Jardin deOlhão378 J World Heritage sites30 World Heritage the south28 national parks31 coast29 Mediterranean 293 Marrakesh cities26 imperial food 31 Casablanca 101 Atlantic coast30 258-9, 296,387 holidays 466-7 history 57 books 34 47,409 Western Sahara the92 Sahara, politics 47,51,54 news 47 music 63,73 history 32,44,46 health 498,499 food 80,81,82,83,86 film 62 environmental issues90 air travel480-1 accommodation 308,452 447 Judaism 41 Juba II34 Juba I34 Jnan Sbil238 people41,237-8 Jewish 106 Museum Jewish jewellery 72,394 jet lag499 TaharJelloun, ben61 Zagora347 Jebel 334-6,416,425-33 Jebel TazzekaJebel 282-3 kif, kif, 372 Khamlia Mohammed61 Khaïr-Eddine, Ketama, Jack23,177 Kerouac, M’Gouna355-6,446 Kelaâ 149-50,327 kayaking kasbahs 177 Museum Kasbah 455 karting Arkmane224 Kariat Mosque233-89 Kairaouine K ksour 78 Koutoubia Mosque299 Koubba Ba’adiyn303 456 kitesurfing Lac Ouiouane 274 Lac d’Ifni425-31 96 Lac deSidiBourhaba Laâyoune 411-14, Laâbi, Abdellatif60 La CathédraledesRocher331 L Tangier 177 Todra Gorge361 Taroudannt 389 369 Rissani 120-1 Rabat Oualidia 149 Chefchaouen 203 Agadir 378 accommodation 452-3 Ksar Tinheras 369 Ksar OuladAbdelhalim369 365 Ksar M’Aadid 288-9 Ksar el-Ooudahir Ksar AïtGoulmima363 Ksar Aber369 Oualidia 149 Essaouira 160 see marijuana see Issaguen 412 INDEX 529

cycling 11 inside

8

, see also inside 368 see also 228 see also see also individual 276 Index (L-M) Index 14 9 front cover entries Ali ben Youssef 299 Assilah 141 Casablanca 105-6 Chefchaouen 203 146 El-Jadida El-Kelaâ 433 233 Fez Laâyoune 413 Marrakesh 299 Meknès 258 Salé 131 175 Tangier 197 Tetouan 393 Tiznit Rabat 120 Mal 336 Tin to/from Morocco 482-3, 484-5 within Morocco 492-5 front cover 217-18 402, 404-5 Tafraoute Oualidia 150 Ouarzazate 342 133-4, mint tea 87, money changers 469-70 Monoliths of M’Soura 144 Moroccopop 64 mosques 74-5, motion sickness 499 motorcycle travel Moulay Bousselham 133-5 Moulay Idriss 227, 268-70, Moulid an-Nabi 466 mountain biking 455, metric 451, conversions mezze 84 270-8, Midelt 275-7, Mirleft 373, 395-6 334 Mizane Valley mobile phones 473 Modernist architecture 215, 216, Mohammed, the Prophet 34 Mohammed V 44, 171 Mohammed VI 45, 46, 47, 171 money 22, 469-70, Mendoubia Gardens 175 96, 98, Merdja Park National Zerga Merenids, the 39-40 Merenid tombs 238-9 61 Mernissi, Fatima Merzouga 351, 370-2, 261 , 168 256 , 218-19 inside front

9 255 256 see also accommodation 260-3 drinking 264-5 260 festivals food 263-4 internet access 257 medical services 257 shopping 265 tours 260 travel to/from 265-6 travel within 266 walking tour 260 Demnate 325 237-8 Fez Goulmima 363 Marrakesh 302 climate 168 history 168 itineraries 29 travel to/from 168 travel within 168-9 border crossings 410, 484-5 border crossings visa 410 Mohammed V 121 Moulay Idriss 269 Moulay Ismail 258-9 cover 236 Fez Marrakesh 298-9 Meknès 258 Salé 131 Assilah 141 Casablanca 104 Chefchaouen 203, Essaouira 158 232-7 Fez Marrakesh 298 Meknès 258, Oujda 284-5 Rabat 120 Safi 152 175-7 Tangier 278 Taza 195-7 Tetouan Melilla 167, 187, 215-21, mellahs Menara Gardens 304 Meknès 227, 254-66, Marriage Festival 464 Marriage Festival Martil 200 Mauritania 463 mausoleums 451, measures medersas 77 medinas Mediterranean coast 167-226, , 309 438 , 300 , 14 , 306 6 294-5 8 136 16 , 138 books 14 , 13 , 6 drinking 319-20 entertainment 320-1 308 festivals food 315-19 history 296 internet access 297 itineraries 293 shopping 321-2 tourist information 298 tours 308 travel to/from 322-4 travel within 324-5 walking tour 306-7, trekking 417-18, 426-7 see also accommodation 309-15 travel with 307-8 children, Djemaa el-Fna 298, Arabic 88-9, 422, 504-10 Arabic 88-9, 422, Berber 422, 512 241, 307, 459 courses 107-8, 123, 510-12 French Spanish 188, 410 211 Tarafit Marrakesh Popular Arts 464 Festival Lyautey, Louis 43-4 Lixus 138-9, Marathon des Sables 463 marijuana 52, 210, 459-60 markets 471-2 Marrakesh 293-325, M’Hamid 350-2, 453 maâlems 66-7 magazines 451 Magdaz 440 mail services 470-1 majoun 459 maps 468-9 M M’Diq 200-1 M’Goun Massif 416, 436, 437-40, leatherwork 70, 233 Châpeau de Napoléon 404-5 Le legal matters 468 Plage 398, Legzira leishmaniasis 500 lesbian travellers 184, 465 Tour Hassan 121 Le 23, 56, 60, 60-1, 170, 177, literature Larache 135-8, LakeLacs) 272 (Route des Circuit Laila 61 Lalami, 375, 504-12 language 22, 291, INDEX music 62-73 museums Saint-Exupéry411 Musée 301-2 deMarrakech Musée DarBelghazi132 Musée mules 421,425,435,436,445, 358 Msemrir movies, newspapers 451 & ofWoodenArts Museum Nejjarine national parks&reserves Nador 221-4, N’Kob 353-4,446,448 N moussems, Mountain Sickness,Acute502 530 000 000 internet resources 63,73 festivals 63,123,161,179,204, Berber 64 Tetouan 197 Tarfaya 411 Tangier 176,177 Salé 132 Safi 152 369 Rissani 123 Rabat 217,218-19 Melilla 258 Meknès 301-2,304 Marrakesh Larache 136 Fez 236,237 Essaouira 160 366 Erfoud Chefchaouen 203 Ceuta 189,191 Casablanca 106 Agadir 378 Crafts 236-7 Crafts 96 Toubkal Tazzeka 282 Talassemtane 96,444 96,384-5 Souss-Massa Naturelle deTamgaReserve 331 Zerga 96,98,133-4, Merdja 96 Lac deSidiBourhaba 31 itineraries Wildlife Sanctuary Bouarfa Al-Hoceima 96,167,214-15

Photograph pages pages Map 242, 308,382464 96 see Index (M-S) film see 222 festivals &events 13 9 Nomad Festival 464 216,217-18 Nieto, Enrique plage, pick-up trucks496-7 photography 470 phone codes, petits taxis496 Petit Socco175 people smugglers55 479 passport Paradise Valley 386 painting 74 Painted Rocks404-5 P Oujda 283-7, Ouimeksane 429 Ouezzane 208-9 Oued Zireg 283 385 Oued Massa Oued Laou209 340-5, Ouarzazate Ouaneskra 427,434 Oualidia 98,149-50 opening hours456-7 O Rabat 98,117-29, Rabat R 34, 36 Queen Al-Kahina 455 quad bikes Q Ouslaf 443 Valley 332-4,427 Ourika Oumesnate 407,445 333-4 Oukaïmeden pottery 132,251 470-1 postal services the40,42,99,101,139- Portuguese, population 20,54-6 pollution 90 politics 20,45,47,51,54 the45,350,375,408,409 Polisario, plants 95 planning 21-5, internet access 120 food 125-7 festivals 123 128 entertainment 127-8 drinking children, travelwith123-4 accommodation 124-5 40, 155,170,377 see beaches 283 see insidefrontcover see also , 118-19 340-1 286 trekking , 122-3 Route des Lacs (Lake Circuit)272 Route desLacs(Lake Rougoult 437-9 Rose Festival 464 Roman Empire 32-4,117, 121,138-9, rock formations357,448 rock climbing361-2,455 333,404,406 rock carvings 367-70, Rissani War168 Rif Mountains167-9,194-215,416, Rif 55-6,76,310,452-3, riads responsible travel53,422-3, 456 Naturelle deTamgaReserve 331 religion 57 refuges 451-2 282 el-Mar Ras 224 el-Maa Ras as-Sana466 Ras 75 ramparts 21,57,86,466-7 Ramadan radio 451 rabies 500 senior travellers 462 253-4, Sefrou AïtBouWlli437 Sebt scorpions 440,456,502 scabies 502-3 Loop447 Sarhro sandflies 502 sand dunes350,370,408-9, Salle deLixus282 282 Salle deDraperies Salé 129-32, Saint-Exupéry, Antoinede411 St Andrews Church175 Saídia 226 the91,95,351,408-9, Sahara, Safi 150-3, safe travel140-1,174,410,459-62, 453 safaris Saadian Tombs300-1 Saadians, the40 S 266 440-4, Taroudannt 389 149 Azemmour 141 Assilah travel within129 travel to/from128-9 information120 tourist shopping 128 120 medical services 476-7 168 151 130 253 , 441 368 13 7 , 15 15 INDEX 531

361 196 359 10 Index (S-T)Index 392 accommodation 197-8 accommodation drinking 199 entertainment 199 food 198-9 history 195 internet access 195 medical services 195 shopping 199 tourist information 195 travel to/from 199 travel within 200 Tinfou Dunes 350 Tinfou tipping 470 404 Tirnmatmat 429 Tisgouane 446 Tisgui Gorge 446 Tislit 405 Tiwadou 361 Tizgui Likemt 427 Tizi 431 n’Aguelzim Tizi n’Eddi 427 Tizi n’Melloul 430, 431 Tizi n’Mzik 431 Tizi n’Ouanoums 429 Tizi n’Ououraïne 428 Tizi n’Rougoult 439 Tizi 427, 434 n’Tacheddirt Tizi 430 n’Taddate Tizi 427, 434 n’Tamatert Tizi 336, n’Test Tizi television 61, 451 338-9 Telouet terrorism 20, 105 167, 194-200, Tetouan textiles 68-9 73 theatre theft 460-1 plateau 416 Tichka 449 Tidkit 427 n Tacheddirt Tigmmi 449 Tiguiza time 473-4 445 Timguilcht 434 Timichi 464 Timitar 359-60, Tinerhir 337-9 n’Tichka Tizi n’Touahar 283 Tizi n’Toubkal 433 Tizi 361 n’Uguent Zegsaoun Tizi Oussem 431 Tizi 392-5, Tiznit Todra Gorge 290, 360-3, toilets 460, 474 178 , 174 , 171 388 401 280 , 279 14 accommodation 180-1 travel with 179 children, drinking 183-4 entertainment 184 & events 179-80 festivals food 181-3 history 170-2 internet access 172 medical services 172 travel 173 safe shopping 184-5 tourist information 173 travel to/from 173, 185-6 travel within 186 Tagdilt 447-8 Tagdilt 385-6 373, Taghazout 437 Taghoulit 446, 449 Tagmout 446 Tagouyamt 449 Tajalajt tajine 83 Takatert 429 96, 444 Park National Talassemtane 443 Talembote 391-2 Taliouine 166 427 Tamatert 349-50 Tamegroute 346 Tamnougalt 385 Tamraght 361 Tamtattouchte 400-2, 410, Tan Tan 407 Tandilt 167, 169-86, Tangier Tangier American museum 176 Legation Tangier tanneries 233, 237 372 Taouz 211 Tarafit 373, 410-11 Tarfaya 209 Targa 387-91, Taroudannt 439 Tasgaïwalt 291 Tashelhit 373, 407-8 Tata 277 Tattiouine 481 taxes taxis 495-6 278-82, Taza Tazaghart plateau 431 Tazaghart 439 Tazouggart 353-4 Tazzarine 282 National Park Tazzeka tea 87, teaching 477 telephone services 473 405 , 14

, 403 14 374

, 397 Museum 160 215-16, 217, 396 Plage 395 Aglou Essaouira 160 Moulay Bousselham 133 Oualid 149 Rabat 123 166 386 Taghazout 385 Tamraght Essaouira 160 Oualidia 149 Marrakesh 305-6 Tabant 330-1 Tabant 427-8, 434 Tacheddirt the 363-72 Tafilalt, 225 Taforalt 402-4, 444, Tafraoute T Tagadirt 428 Tagadirt Sidi Ouarsik 398 Sidi R’bat 385 Oasis 287 Sidi Yahia Sijilmassa 369 silver 390 skiing 427, 455 Skoura 354-5 smoking 460 snakes 440, 503 soccer 58 solo travellers 472 Souq el-Had Issi 405-6 souqs 75 Source Bleue de Meski 365 Sources de l’Oum-er-Rbia 274 Souss, the 373-402, Sidi Jil 443 Sidi Kaouki 166 Sidi Meftah 442 ben AbdallahSidi Mohammed Setti Fatma 334, 433-4 Setti Fatma 442 Sfiha Telj shopping 471-3 432 Sidi Chamharouch Sidi Ifni 396-8, Spanish language 188, 410 sport 58-9 Steha 209 surfing 455 sustainable tourism 53 swimming synagogues 238, 302 Souss-Massa National Park 96, 384-5 Souss-Massa National Park Spanish, the 42-3, 168, 187, 191, 194, INDEX © LonelyPlanetPublications trekking 416-49,456, trekking Treaty ofFès42,43 travellers cheques470 travel withinMorocco489-97 travel to/fromMorocco479-89 Circuit425-31, Toubkal Touareg people409 Torres deAlcala215 428 Tombe Asminewaterfall 532 train travel touts 232,461-2 tours 488-9 55 tourism 429-30,432 Refuge Toubkal 000 000 Jebel Sarhro 446-9 Sarhro Jebel 204 el-Kelaâ Jebel Ayachi277 Jebel Atlas423-40 High guides 420-1,425,435,436,445 food 421-2 etiquette 422,456 environmental considerations Demnate 326 cultural considerations422 clothing 419-20 Cirque Jaffar277 books 418,419 274 Azrou Anti Atlas444-6 accommodation 421,425 within Morocco497 to/from Morocco483-4 Meknès 260 Meknès 308 Marrakesh Fez 241 Chefchaouen 204 Casablanca 108

Photograph pages pages Map 422-3, 456 Index (T-Z) 491 417 426 , 433 ,

16 typhoid 501 Tumart, Mohammedibn38 tuberculosis 501 Tuareg 398 volunteering 477-8 volunteering Volubilis 227,266-8, visas 474-5 video systems451 Verame, 405 Jean travellers79 vegetarians vaccinations 475,498-9 vacations 465-7 V Umayyads, the35 Umar, Yahya ibn37 U water 52-3,90-1 tours walking W Toubkal Circuit425-31, Toubkal Todra Gorge361-2 Taliouine 391 Talassemtane NationalPark 204 Tafraoute 403 safety 419-20 Mountains440-4 Rif planning 424-5,425-6,433-4,436, organisations 418-19 mules 421,425,435,436,445 425-33 Toubkal Jebel Meknès 260 Meknès 306-7, Marrakesh Fez 239-41, Casablanca 106-7, 441-2, 446-7 240 267 306 107 426 ,

16 weights &measures 451, websites, weaving 69 weather 21,458 waterfalls, 87,503 water, drinking Ziz Valley 363-72 zellij 71 zawiyas 77 Zat Valley 337-8 Zaouiat Ahansal331 Zagora 347-9, Zagmouzine Valley 446 Z yellow fever 501 Yacoub, AbuYoussef38 Y WWII 43,44 sites30 World Heritage work 477-8 woodwork 72 women travellers475-7,503 women inMorocco56 160,166,456 windsurfing Williams,Tennessee 177 wildlife 94-5,424,440 456 rafting white-water Western Sahara 47,373,408-15, Western Sahara Zawiya Moulay Ali ash-Sharif 368 Zawiya MoulayAliash-Sharif Sidi Ahmedat-Tijani 131 ibnHassoun131 Sidi Abdallah travel to/from410 safe travel410 history 375,408-10 climate 409-10 inside frontcover see see internetresources cascades 347 see also

374 GREENDEX 533 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © p315 p332 & Environmental Culturel Centre p389 (Taroudannt), p313 p204 p308 p308 p338 (Zat Valley) p308 Kasbah du Toubkal (Imil) p336 Kasbah du Toubkal (Imil) p314 (Marrakesh)La Pause p162 Lalla Mira (Essaouira) Little Morocco (Bin el-Ouirgane) Naturally Morocco Guest House: Al Massarah (Marrakesh) p314 Riad Bledna (Marrakesh) p355 Sawadi (Skoura) p313 Tchaikana (Marrakesh) Chaouen Rural (Chefchaouen) (Tassa Ouirgane) p337 Dar Tassa Diversity Excursions (Marrakesh) Inside Morocco Travel (Marrakesh) L’Association des Amis du Zat Mountain Voyage (Marrakesh) p488 Naturally Morocco (UK) Jnane Tamsna (Marrakesh) Jnane Tamsna tour agencies (Marrakesh) p322 (Marrakesh) du Zaouiat Ahsal (Zaouiat p331 Ahansal) p353 Valley) p321 Marrakesh (Marrakesh) p344 (Ouarzazate) p344 p353 p405 p338 (Telouet) p330 p225 Mountains) p338 Al-Kawtar (Marrakesh) p321 Al-Kawtar (Marrakesh) Assouss Cooperative d’Argane de l’Association Atelier du Tissages (Drâa Cooperative Ahilal des Tapis Cooperative Artisanale de Femmes Coopérative de Tissage Horizon Artisanat (Ouarzazate) Iklane Association (Irkane Village) Auberge Sahnoun (Afella-Ighir), Baraka Community Partnerships Ecolodge Dar Itrane (Tabant) (Beni-Snassen Gite Tagma Homestays Morocco (Tighza) shopping sleeping of Tangier (Tangier) p175 (Tangier) of Tangier del Turismo Rural (National del Turismo p215 of Al-Hoceima) Park Chaou community garden p345 project (Agdz) p133 (Moulay Bousselham) p176 Lorin (Tangier) headquarters (Souss Valley) p384

The following Moroccan attractions, tours and accommodation choices have been selected by by been selected following Moroccan attractions, have and accommodation choices tours The someone omitted sustainable-tourism our We want to keep If you think we’ve developing content. Dar Taliba () p335 Dar Taliba Jnane Tamsna (Marrakesh) p307 (Marrakesh) Jnane Tamsna p165 Coopérative Amal (Tamanar) DARNA, the Women’s Association Asociación Rif para el Desarrollo Dar Bellarj (Marrakesh) p302 Dar Bellarj (Marrakesh) p305 (Marrakesh) Jnane Tamsna Merdja National Park Zerga Musée de la Fondation Souss-Massa National Park Association Development Hart

It seems like everyone’s going green these days, but how can you know which businesses are which businesses are but how can you know these days, going green It seems like everyone’s jumping on the sustainable-travel simply actually eco-friendly bandwagon? are and which sustainable-tourism involved active an they demonstrate the authors because policy. Some are make community-owned or a point of and many are protection, in environmental or wildlife and al- maintaining and preserving and culture, local identity thereby employing local people, leviating poverty. with our choices, email us at talk2us@lonelyplanet or if you disagree here, who should be listed about sustainable tourism and information For more for next.com.au and set us straight time. Lonely Planet, see www.lonelyplanet.com/responsibletravel. non profit organisations eating courses conservation

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