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Moroccan Civil Society: Historical Traditions and Contemporary Challenges DOCUMENT RESUME ED 438 196 SO 030 838 AUTHOR Braun, Aaron, Ed. TITLE Moroccan Civil Society: Historical Traditions and Contemporary Challenges. Journal of the 1998 Fulbright-Hays Seminar Abroad, June 25-July 29, 1998 (Morocco). SPONS AGENCY Center for International Education (ED), Washington, DC. PUB DATE 1998-00-00 NOTE 79p.; For a related item from this Moroccan Seminar, see SO 030 839. Administered by the Moroccan-American Commission for Educational and Cultural Exchange, Rabat, Morocco. PUB TYPE Collected Works General (020) Reports Descriptive (141) EDRS PRICE MF01/PC04 Plus Postage. DESCRIPTORS Area Studies; Foreign Countries; *Global Education; Higher Education; *Non Western Civilization; Study Abroad; *Travel IDENTIFIERS Fulbright Hays Seminars Abroad Program; *Morocco ABSTRACT This journal is a collaborative effort of the 1998 Fulbright-Hays Summer Abroad Program in Morocco. Each participant volunteered to record one, two, or more days of their seminar abroad in Morocco, and report on activities/lectures/travels/observations. It was hoped that this journal would provide a multi-voiced and multi-perspective document of the 5-week sojourn. The journal is divided into sections for each of 38 days of the seminar, and it ends with a few final reflections from some of the participants.(BT) Reproductions supplied by EDRS are the best that can be made from the original document. ON 00 JOURNAL I oF:THE.:19$a: FU SEMINAR ABROAD IN MOROCCO Moroccan Civil Society: Historical Traditions and Contemporary Challenges (25th June29th. July 1998) EDITOR-1N-CHIEF: AARON BRAUN U.S. DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION Office of Educational Research and Improvement EDUCATIONAL. RESOURCES INFORMATION CENTER (ERIC) OC This document has been reproduced as S.received from the person or organization originating it. Cr) OC Minor changes have been made to improve reproduction quality. Points of view or opinions stated in this document do not necessarily represent C:1 official OERI position or policy. OCr) BEST COPY AVAILABLE 2 INTRODUCTION This journal is a collaborative effort in which each participant volunteered to record one, two or more days of the Seminar and report on its activities/lectures/travels/observations.It was hoped that this would provide a multi-voiced and multi-perspective written document of the five-week sojourn. We are grateful that entries were also provided by the gracious Seminar Coordinator, Carl Dawson and the beloved Tour Guide/Translator/Mother Figure, Fatima Casewit.Their final two entries provide, to say the least, quite the alternative perspective. Thanks also to Carl Dawson for his final proofing, corrections, and the addition of translations of certain terms, as well as his many gallant efforts in providing us with Dinker Patel's photos. His herculean November exertions at the Commission aptly mirror his labors throughout the seminar in coordinating and ensuring that all went smoothly. We're just sorry this prevented him from travelling with us as often as we would have liked. I raise my Glen Livet to your Flag Speciale, Boss! A debt of gratitude is extended to the stalwart Betty Lau, who volunteered to substitute for another participant who, in his eternal search for the elusive, perfect tan, did not respond.We also appreciate Betty's meticulous proofing and editing of her entries, leaving hardly any work at this end.Mostly, however, she is appreciated for offering to make the occasional phone call to somewhat hostile environs in my stead and for generally providing her support and concern throughout. Bravo Betty! Thanks and kudos are extended to the techno-wizards, Joseph Snook and Thomas Sunshine, for downloading and scanning graphics and files that were panic-invoking for this computer illiterate, and to Steven Sunshine for his scanning and proofreading assists. Finally,this journal would have been a fiasco without liana Kilion's editing, proofing and organizational skills. Her laudable diligence and graciousness throughout these last weeks has been utterly inspired and inspirational. Enjoy, Aaron Braun 2 3 DAY 1: WEDNESDAY, JUNE 24 -- MADRID, CASABLANCA, RABAT JOHN CABE For some of the group, getting to Morocco had an auspicious beginning. We were allowed the opportunity to stay in the airport at Madrid for several hours before leaving for Casablanca via Iberia Air.It did give some of us the chance to get to know a little about each other.I knew who my roommate was to be and actually met him in the airport at Atlanta as we had a delay there for an hour or so.I saw a fellow who looked like an Indian from Kenya so I just asked him who he was, and, lo and behold it was the Dinker.Apparently, none of the participants were seated together going to Madrid but I was talking to my seatmate about what I was doing and discovered that just across the aisle was another participant, Jerry Kaminski. He was busy reading the materials we had been sent so we did not talk much.(I, of course, had read the materials and committed them to memory before leaving the U.S.!) Anyway, at Madrid we were constantly told there were air traffic control problems so we kind of grouped up and scoped each other out. Dinker found a couple of chairs to sleep on and the rest of us wandered around, eating and fussing. Eventually, they did provide a pretty good lunch for us and then just as we were finishing called us to the plane. Half of the group almost missed it since they had changed the gate for boarding the bus out to the plane.At any rate, we barely were seated before we pushed back. The next thing we knew they were throwing some sort of unidentifiable food at us.I learned later that participant Betty Lau ate hers and her seatmate's meal. She did not know at the time, but the seatmate turned out to be another participant, Jacob Abadi. This voracious appetite for such a petite woman would not be an uncommon sight throughout the trip! On arriving in Casablanca, we were loaded onto the bus, which we would become quite familiar with over the next few weeks. Also, I learned a quick lesson when a young fellow grabbed a suitcase of Ajile's I was helping to load. Naturally, he wanted money, but having only $20 bills, I was in a sort of dilemma. He kept coming to the window with his buddies obviously wanting money.I finally borrowed a dollar from Jerry K. and threw it out the window to him (the dollar is in the mail, Jerry). I don't know if he was able to get the dollar changed. On the way to Rabat, my most interesting observation was the tremendous number of what appeared to be black plastic bags everywhere and TV satellites on almost every roof. Getting checked into the hotel in Rabat was semi-organized bedlam. The hotel was located on a very noisy street, which took some getting used to for some participants. Once settled in, a few of the group went out for supper, which turned out to be pizza - not quite a great introduction to Moroccan food, but it was late and the cafe was near. DAY 2: THURSDAY, JUNE 25 -- RABAT JOHN CABE I wake up very early the next morning and watch a man cleaning the sidewalk with a palm frond; basically he is pushing the trash into a kind of trough by the street.Breakfast turns out to be what would seem endless mornings of baguettes, croissants and apricot jam -- oh, just for an egg! We begin lectures at the commission, which is just a short walk away from the hotel. The first talks are about history. About three of the participants seem to want to dominate the discussions -- actually, I don't think they are interested in answers. Perhaps they just know a lot about the topics and/or like to be heard. Possibly this is a temporary phenomenon and will taper off later in the project. BEST COPY AVAILABLL Jerry Singer spends the day in the airport wistfully thinking his luggage might appear (it doesn't). We are taken to dinner at Dinarjat, a "typical" Moroccan cafe. It is quite an experience. The servers are incredibly tall and they just keep on bringing food, the most interesting probablybeing sheep brains.Betty is at my table and living up to her growing reputation, helping me eat much of my food. Jerry K. is going around with his video camera and I am giving expert commentary about the restaurant - something which I actually know nothing about but figure it's better than having silent film. The last two participants, Alba and Tim, finally show up -- they apparently had flight connection problems. Aaron tells me later that he dreamed about being chased by sheep demanding their brains.I have an unusual dream in which I had not brought enough clothes and had gone back to North Carolina to get more and was very concerned about getting back to Rabat so I would not miss the next morning's lecture.I suppose it would take some deep psychoanalysis to figure that out! DAY 3: FRIDAY, JUNE 26 -- RABAT JOHN CABE Second full day of the program. Sleeping was very difficult probably due to the time changes as well as the noise from the streets.I am up at 5:00 A.M. and later help the restaurant staff open up.I can't wait for more baguettes and jam (actually, at this point I do not know this would be the case for many days to come). We have more lectures. The one on language is pretty good.
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