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report 01 Sartoria Debernardis Pitti Immagine Uomo 01 Visitors to the fair 02 “Kansai” computer 02 Bold and bright at Piombo portfolio by Want Les 03 Drumohr’s argyle update Essentiels de la Vie 04 Nigel Cabourn’s Second World War- 03 Aertex by inspired collection Salvatore Piccolo 05 Barbisio’s 04 Arianna’s 05 Want Les Essentiels de la Vie’s Dexter & Brands to measure. Established in Byron Peart 1956, the 06 Ralph Vaessen firm attracted lots of eyewear Castañer This Spanish espadrille firm attention from buyers 07 Castañer espadrilles on their Pitti debut. 08 Daiki Suzuki established in 1776 found fame in the 1970s when 09 Massimo Piombo Want Les Essentiels de 10 Haversack Yves Saint Laurent asked 02 01 Castañer to make a high- la Vie heeled espadrille for a “I call our 24-hour, 48-hour, catwalk show. The latest and 72-hour bags my hand-stitched collection Russian dolls,” said Dexter included an espadrille-style Peart, co-founder (with his called the Alfonso with twin brother) of Canadian a leather sole. travel goods brand Want Les Essentiels de la Vie. Arianna “The concept was to make 01 04 Based near Genoa, family- essential travel products – there were 889 brands at June’s 76th pitti run brand Arianna from small leather goods to used to manufacture travel bags – that hark back pitti Uomo vying for the attention of more to the romance of travel.” than 18,000 buyers largely hailing from scarves for Cartier and Loro Piana. Their exquisite patter Germany, Japan, Spain, Holland, France scarves made from linen- Salvatore Piccolo and the UK.the focus was on quality and cashmere-silk mix and linen Until two years ago, 31- — craft but, happily for the buyers, price- and cotton are woven on a year-old Salvatore Piccolo 03 05 02 03 19th-century box loom. and his mother only made points had never been more accessible. shirts for private clients. Preface “Buyers are expecting an economic Key trends Shackets Although buyers’ budgets For next summer, Ralph Vaessen They have now launched recovery for 2010 so were ready to sign a new ready-to-wear line. were cinched in and high- Prints lightweight, unlined “Everything is made in “I get to play more with end was kept in orders for next year’s spring/summer col - From paisley to florals, and made from Germany from natural horn fashion with my new mothballs, the mood at this lections. Brands were showing new de - prints on trousers, ties, wrinkle-proof fabrics will be [buffalo] by hand and it business that has the same summer’s menswear show , shirts and jackets ideal for frequent travellers. takes about three weeks signs, fabrics and colours and investing a concept as my bespoke Pitti Uomo remained were blossoming. The - hybrids at Kiton, just to make one piece,” lot more in research,” says raffaello venture,” said Piccolo. optimistic. This was 1970s-style prints at Hackett and Piombo were 04 said Dutch eyewear Napoleone, Ceo of the fair that is a key Fitted herringbone, linen reflected in the light, Engineered Garments made from the softest mixes designer Ralph Vaessen. and Aertex shirts stood out. bright collections. event on the menswear calendar. and the bold shirts at of silk, cashmere and Moods at the main exhibition ground Piombo were highlights. cotton/linen that Japanese Sartoria Debernardis Perfetto writer Over at Drumohr, director buyers referred to as the Hand-made cashmere at Florence’s were Japanese shoemaker Alicia Kirby Michele Ciocca said, “shacket”. blazers, and unlined wrinkle- oddly buoyant: at stands such as engi - Perfetto’s factory near Tokyo “We have put a lot of proof jackets from Sartoria photographer neered Garments, director Daiki Suzuki used to manufacture for emphasis on digital printing Colonial style Debernardis are made to Pietro Paolini other brands but confirmed that business was booming. on knitwear this season.” Bombay bloomers, khaki 05 now has its own label. “For Yet some buyers admitted that budgets Who said print was dead? and desert hues were big trends. At Japanese brand us, the material, the last, the weren’t as lavish as in the past. Walking construction and design of Casual TS(S), slim-fit shorts fitted around there seemed to be more of an the shoe is key and the core This season’s Pitti fashion the bill but it emphasis on casual comfort and sports - concept of our brand is to crowd opted for casual chic was British designer Nigel use a Goodyear welt but in wear over stiff tailoring. over stiff tailoring. Antonio Cabourn who went all out. a dressy Italian style rather the fourth edition of the wom - de Matteis, CEO of Kiton Cabourn’s sandy-hued than the traditional US or said: “The trend is for collection was inspired by enswear show, pitti W_Women, was UK traditional welted people to feel more free and his father who fought in 06 07 hailed as a great success with a 10 per ,” said sales manager comfortable, so we’ve used Burma in the Second World cent increase in buyers attending. New Makoto Shimamura. lighter constructions, fabrics War. Highlights were bags, York’s proenza Schouler was a special and no lining which is a new shorts and jackets made Haversack guest and among the 60 labels on show thing for us.” Italian brand from Second World War Japanese designer Koji Brunello Cucinelli was at dead-stock fabric and a were British designers Christopher Kane, Norihide’s Haversack the forefront of this trend, leather lace up work wear Jonathan Saunders and preen. caused a buzz with its insisting that shirts should he created with US the highlight of the week was Japan - military-inspired workwear no longer be teamed with brand Yuketen. and meticulous washes. ese brand Undercover, Jun takahashi’s jackets but with sleeveless Norihide said, “I am into first menswear collection to be shown at Barbours or a skinny blunt- recreating vintage tipped tie. Aiming at a pitti.takahashi said he had been inspired and workwear that isn’t younger market, the usually by German industrial designer Dieter actually factory wear with conservative hatters added detailing.” rams’ ethos of less is more. at this inno - Barbisio used jersey and vative but understated fair, rams’ princi - linen for the first time. ples couldn’t have been more apt. — (M) 09 10 106 — issue 26 issue 26 — 107

08 report Pitti Immagine Uomo

01 Hackett 02 Drumohr’s stand with its garden theme MonoCle musts

Hackett Reflecting its status as official clothing supplier for the Oxford/Cambridge boat race and its sponsorship of the London Rowing Club, boating was a big theme at Name: Alberto Monti Name: Antonio Liverano Hackett. CEO Jeremy Occupation: Owner of Occupation: Tailor Hackett said, “The London A. GI. Emme and owner of Liverano Rowing collection’s sporty Wearing: Jacket and & Liverano and stripy blazers were by Engineered Garments, Wearing: Jacket, shirt, inspired by Henley Regatta shirt by Piombo, trousers trousers and tie all by whereas a new range called by Acne Liverano ‘Brown in Town’ is quite 01 refined.” The label set trends for shorter jacket lengths and slimmer fits for trenches. It also showcased a fabric called THE WAVE by Loro Piana as part of the fourth collection of Hackett’s luxury Mayfair diffusion. “It’s the lightest travel cloth in the world and it never wrinkles,” said creative director Michael Sondag.

Kiton Italian label Kiton’s latest collection was an 02 optimistically colourful affair. Orobianco Name: Rasmus Storm Name: Hun Lee Mixed materials, tartan and This season, luggage brand Occupation: Founder, Occupation: LERICI brand lightweight stonewashed Orobianco showcased cork Storm manager from Korea travel jackets stood out. bags with bridle leather Wearing: Jacket by Brooks Wearing: Jacket by Time A highlight was a stunning handles and hi-tech trolley Brothers, shirt by Black Homme, shirt by Goshe, sky-blue unlined cashmere, suitcases made from Fleece by Brooks Brothers, trousers by Universal linen and silk mix jacket with aluminium textiles. The team bag by Mismo x Storm Language, bag by Sander’s a white cashmere under- were most excited about collar. Although financial their new slim-fit times have been better, that came in artichoke or CEO Antonio De Matteis red. President Giacomo M said, “Customers are Valentini said, “The fabric looking for more quality for this raincoat has been products; that is why they developed with the are still buying with us.” technology of a company called Cihon Tech in Japan.” Drumohr Since 239-year-old Scottish Bill Amberg knitwear label Drumohr was UK leather goods designer taken over by the Italian Bill Amberg displayed his Ciocca family it has been strongest bag collection updated for the 21st yet, including a handsome century. At a stand decked graphic printed tote. with foliage inspired by an “We’ve printed on rubber English garden, CEO but used a very simple Michele Ciocca said, “We graphic,” says Amberg. have introduced bright Name: Shuhei Araki Name: Nicola Ricci Fisherman-inspired shoulder Occupation: Menswear Occupation: Creative colours this season. It’s to satchels and beach bags make people a bit happier sales division, Aman director, Sciamat made from neon mesh Wearing: Jacket by , Wearing: Jacket, shirt in this recession.” All eyes fabrics used on building were on an electric neon shirt by Finamore, tie by and trousers all by Sciamat, sites will be on the smartest Altea, belt by Amboise, bag by Persol, watch sleeveless jumper in a of shoulder’s next spring. classic paisley pattern. by SantaCroce by Omega

108 — issue 26