DEAR GEMüTLICHKEIT SUBSCRIBER The Travel Letter for , , & the New Europe

THIS ISSUE: December 22, 1996 How It All Started The idea for a newsletter about travel in the German-speaking countries had simmered in my A DECADE OF GEMÜTLICHKEIT subconscious for several years We mark Gemütlichkeit's 10th year with a special 10-page issue. In a year-by-year review of our first until one day my brother Tom, a free-lance writer, told me two decade we have compiled a ”mini” guide to the best of Germany, Austria and Switzerland. things: first, that he had read in In that first in Austria. In Mariazell we Money Magazine about a success- For addresses, phone and ful newsletter on and, sec- 1987 January, 1987, recommend the simple Gasthof ond, about a computer software issue we re- Zum Alten Brauhaus. fax numbers of establishments program called PageMaker. Tom’s viewed the • In Verbier, the Austrian listed or mentioned in this Gasthof Fraundorfer computer, one of the first of in ski resort, we find the extraor- month's 10th anniversary Garmisch-Partenkirchen, told Apple’s Macintoshes, could run dinary Hotel Rosalp and its issue, please refer to the al- readers how to see a first-divi- PageMaker which would allow us restaurant Pierroz, one of the phabetical listings on pages sion German professional fuss- to produce camera-ready pages country’s finest. Also noted is 11-12. ball (soccer) game and wrote without expensive and time-con- the Hotel de la Poste. about an excursion from Vien- suming typesetting and paste-up. • Zermatt’s Le Gitan res- trains of Switzerland includ- na to Budapest, which had just taurant is praised for its mari- Of course, we would still have to opened to western travel. We ing a description of a ride on write it and then — hard part — nated loin of lamb cooked over the famed Glacier Express. recommended the Budapest a wood fire. find somebody who would pay to Hilton as the place to stay and • The cheapest subcom- read it. the Mathias Pin- pact rental car is ce as an atmo- $138 per week, Tom came up with the name spheric dinner excluding tax. which, in one way, is perfect: its 20 Favorite Country Hotels 1987-1996 choice. We cau- Currently, that German meaning exactly fits what tioned against the Anker Marktheidenfeld Ger car rents for we’re trying to do and it almost huge Grand Bavaria Pfronten Ger $109 per week. never fails to bring a smile to the Hotel Hungaria. Benen-Diken-Hof Sylt Ger face of Germans, Austrians and • LTU, the Those recommen- Bon Accueil Chateaux d Oex Swi German airline Swiss. From another standpoint, dations are still Der Bär Ellmau Aus offers a $449 however, it’s probably a liability. good today. Geiger Berchtesgaden Ger round-trip, New Conventional marketing wisdom In a story on Grandhotel Giessbach Brienz Swi York to Frank- says that, at the very minimum, a backroads travel Grüner Baum Badgastein Aus furt. Condor, product's name should be imme- we said, “auto- Gutshotel des Weingutes Neumagen-Dhron Ger the Lufthansa diately recognizable and mean- mobile touring in Haus Hirt Badgastein Aus charter airline, ingful to potential customers. To Europe offers the L’Ermitage Vufflens Swi offers RT prices most people, however, Gemütli- ultimate in travel Landhaus Hubertushof Altaussee Aus of $649, $679 chkeit is simply a word that is very satisfaction. The and $709 from difficult to pronounce. Le Débarcardère St. Sulpice Swi motorist moves at Romantik Hotel Bierhütte Hohenau Ger the West Coast. his own pace and Tom was also responsible for Romantik Hotel Tennerhof Kitzbühel Aus • We re- on his own time- view “last the basic look of the newsletter Rosalp Verbier Swi table, not some- night” hotels which is still much the same as it Schloss-Hotel Chasté Scuol-Tarasp Swi one else's; stops near the Frank- was when we started. Schloss Haunsperg Oberalm bei Salzburg Aus anytime; stays furt Airport. Schlossli Bottighofen Bottighofen Swi After a couple of years, Tom longer or departs Our two favor- Waldhotel Doldenhorn Kandersteg Swi ites are the bowed out when he discovered he earlier, as it suits; has the means to Hotel Dreieich had a very bright future as a writer visit the tiniest hamlets; and, in Langen and the Hotel and creative consultant to com- • We report on 10 small, finally and simply, turns left Birkenhof in Hanau. panies in the exploding Silicon country “hideout” hotels in instead or right, at whim.” Valley (recently he was creative Germany, notably the Roman- • In April we explain how director on the video Microsoft’s Though still advocates of tik Hotel Bierhütte and the to get the most from Michelin Bill Gates used as the centerpiece auto travel, since then we have Hotel Andrea, both in the Red Guides and report the first one was published in 1900 of his keynote address to the an- come to better appreciate the Bavarian Forest, and the Ro- and that in 1901 a new symbol nual COMDEX conference in Las joys of seeing Europe by rail. mantik Hotel Zehntkeller in — W.C. — first appeared. It Vegas). Other 1987 highlights Iphofen and Schloss Spangen- meant the hotel listed pos- • The lovely backroads berg, south of Kassel. sessed a flush toilet. drive from Hieflau to Mariazell • We review the mountain Continued on page 2… Continued on page 3… December, 1996 were more of them. And, I am sorry to say, the communism. It opened up whole new territories DEAR SUBSCRIBER cuisine of far too many of Germany, Austria and for us to explore. The second is the fall of the Continued from page 1 Switzerland's grand restaurants is stuck in the dollar. It changed where we stay, where we eat So we produced a first issue and then went past, serving thick, salty, artery-clogging sauces, and how long and how often we visit Europe. in search of readers, which is just the reverse of huge portions of meat and overcooked veg- Fortunately, car rental prices have fallen in the how successful publications are born these etables. last 10 years and, on an inflation-adjusted basis, days. (First comes a mailing which invites po- so have airfares. The third major development is As to our bias toward auto travel over train tential readers to send in subscription orders. If the Internet. The respected Value Line Invest- travel, we're coming around. Earlier this month enough paid orders are received, publication ment Survey says the Internet's development we went by train from St. Gallen, Switzerland, to goes forward. If not, the money is returned and “poses a change in the environment that is Prague. Then from Prague to Weimar and from the newsletter never gets off the ground.) analogous to the displacement of the telegraph there to Frankfurt and then on to Zürich. Except by the telephone.” How does that affect travel- Even though we did things a little back- for one incident — about which you will hear ers? One example: prior to the trip referred to wards, it was clear from our very first direct mail later but for now just remember to not, under above, I accessed the Net and was able to easily solicitation we had a product that was of interest any circumstances, check your bags when trav- locate and print all the train schedules related to to a certain sort of traveler. (Obviously, you are eling by train from one country to another — it our specific itinerary. So, for instance, in our one of that “certain sort” and we thank hotel room the night before we were to you for your subscription. ) depart Weimar, we simply dug out the The Best: 1987-1996 single sheet of paper that had the At the beginning, the dollar was Weimar to Frankfurt timetable and se- very strong versus European curren- Hotel: Victoria Jungfrau, Interlaken, Swi lected our departure time. No fat books cies and we were more inclined to cover Country Hotel: Grüner Baum, Badgastein, Aus to carry, no phone calls to make. the best hotels. At three marks to the Value, Country Hotel: Pension Heim, Seeg, Ger In looking over the first 119 issues dollar a double room at Munich’s Vier City Hotel: Abtei, Hamburg of Gemütlichkeit — rereading many of Jahreszeiten could be had for about Value, City Hotel: Pension Altstadt, Vienna $136. At the nearby An der Oper, a fine them for the first time since their month View - Hotel Room: Forsthaus Graseck, little three-star hotel, rooms were from of publication — I began to feel a real $33 to $58. It was even cheaper in the Garmisch-Partenkirchen Ger sense of accomplishment. There's a countryside. Restaurant: L’Ermitage, Vufflens (Morges), Swi lot of solid information in those 956 Value, Restaurant: Markgräfler Hof, Freiburg pages (the December, 1989 issue had But as the dollar declined over the Simple Restaurant: Hotel Bahnhof, Saanen, Swi 12 pages), if I do say so. And all of it years we had to lower our sights and so Ambience, Restaurant: Kronenhalle, Zürich, Swi based on firsthand observations. We Gemütlichkeit began to look for less set out to be the publication for inde- View, Restaurant: Bürgenstock, Swi expensive hotels and restaurants. While pendent travelers to our three coun- we still review four and five-star hotels Most Fun, Restaurant: Gasthof Fraundorfer tries and I think we have succeeded. — everybody likes an occasional splurge Airline: Swissair There have been more than a few mis- — we now present a more balanced spellings and misuses of German (and range of accommodations, including French and Italian) words and phrases, pensions, self-catering units and one and two- was pure delight. Germany's new ICE (Inter-City but the heart of the matter, the advice on where star-hotels. Express) trains were particularly comfortable; to stay, where to eat, how to get there, what to they'll even bring food and wine or beer, and not see, how to save a buck here and there, where to Our current policy on restaurants reflects just bottled beer but Bier vom Fass , to your seat. drive, what to drive, and so on, has been pretty our personal tastes. Once in a while we don’t much right on. mind putting on a coat and tie to drop a large The past 10 years have brought three major number (but then, baby, it had better be good). changes for traveler's to Germany, Austria and And we're still on the case: still excited We mostly look for simple restaurants that can Switzerland. The first, of course, is the fall of about travel and still enjoy talking about it and execute well the traditional recipes. I wish there writing about it. — RHB

Vol. 10, No.12 HOTEL RESTAURANT RATING KEY December, 1996 GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe Rating Scale Scale Hotel Rating Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 People/Service 30% Above Average 12 - 15 Location/Setting 15% Editor & Publisher: Robert H. Bestor, Jr. Average 8 - 11 Guestrooms 30% Associate Editors: Elizabeth Schiller, Bruce Woelfel Adequate 4 - 7 Public rooms 5% Contributing Editors: C. Fischer, R. Holliday Unacceptable 0 - 3 Facilities/Restaurant 20% Design & Composition: Paul T. Merschdorf Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Value Rating Scale Restaurant Criteria Subscription Dept: Andy Bestor, K. Steffans Outstanding Value 17 - 20 Food 65% Very Good Value 12 - 16 Service 20% Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published monthly by UpCountry Publish- Average Value 9 - 11 Atmosphere 15% ing, 2892 Chronicle Avenue, Hayward, CA 94542. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521- Below Average Value 5 - 8 6722 or 510/538-0628. Fax: 510/582-8296. e-mail [email protected]. Sub- A Rip-Off 0 - 4 scriptions are $67 per year for 12 issues. While every effort is made to provide correct information in this publication, the publishers can make no guarantees Special G Designation regarding accuracy. Periodicals postage paid in Hayward, CA. By virtue of location, decor, charm, warmth of management, or POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: combination thereof, an especially pleasant establishment. Gemütlichkeit, 2892 Chronicle Ave., Hayward, CA 94542

Gemütlichkeit 2 December, 1996 also went to the Stadt Hamburg and the as Germany’s finest restaurant, comes up GEMÜTLICHKEIT 1987-96 Hotel Wünschmann. At the Restaurant just a little short of advance billing. Continued from page 1 Käpt’n Hahn (no longer in business) we • In the Bavarian village of Mitten- had a memorable meal. wald, famous for its violin makers, we find • Gemütlichkeit explains why it is es- • On a ski trip to Obertauren, about 90 comfortable rooms, great service and good sential that auto travelers use road maps of km south of Salzburg, we fall in love with food at the Berghotel Latscheneck. 1:200,000 scale such as the Mairs Die Gener- the Hotel Kohlmayr calling it a “near • Top ratings go to a marvelous coun- alkarte. Smaller scale maps simply don’t perfect skier’s inn.” try hotel, the Wald und Schlosshotel show all the small towns and country • On a trip to Austria we are disap- Friedrichsruhe. roads. pointed by service and food at Schloss • Best Lugano hotel is Villa Principe • In Munich we give two stars (out of Dürnstein, chronicle a backroads drive Leopoldo. We also like Hotel Montalbano, three) to the Vier Jahreszeiten and also from Dürnstein to Vienna and recommend the Splendide Royale and the Grand Ho- recommend the Hotel An der Oper and the Romantik Hotel Schwarzer Adler in tel Villa Castagnola. the Hotel Adria. Betten Rid, a bedding Innsbruck, the Jagdschloss Graf Recke in store, is noted as a place to purchase down • Two excellent restaurants in the Wald im Pinzgau and the Gasthof Edel- suburbs of Nürnberg are Gasthof Bammes, comforters and pillows for shipment back weiss in Gerlos. to the U.S. Hugendubl, the big Marien- which gets our “memorable experience” • We begin 1988 with platz bookstore, is the best place for En- rating, and the Restaurant Polster. more “hideout” hotels of glish-language books and for maps and • A resort-golf hotel in the Black For- 1988 Germany. The Harzhotel atlases. Colorful soccer shirts from Shuster est, the Hotel Öschberghof, is recognized Romantischer Winkel is make good gifts for gentlemen age 7 to 20. for its value. well off the beaten track in the Harz Moun- • Augustiner Gaststätten and Spaten- tains and the quirky Hotel Feiler, in that • In our first major coverage of Vienna haus are the top beer restaurants. part of Germany, known as Swiss Franco- we give highest marks to the Hotel Imperi- • The Salzburg inn that gets our high- nia, has a wonderful restaurant. al and the famed Sacher. Best small hotel is Römischer Kaiser, followed by König von est value rating is Pension Wolf in the • Switzerland’s new hotel category, the heart of the old town. Ungarn and the best hotel value, the Kai- Landgasthof, consists of small country serin Elisabeth. At the Palais Schwarzen- • A story on Nürnberg recommends hotels with pleasant rooms and good food. berg we spot Greta Garbo lunching alone the Weinhaus Steichele (hotel) and the We review five, the best of which is Seeho- in a large, private dining room. Michelin- Bratwursthäusle, the town’s temple of tel Schiff on the Bodenseee. starred Korso is our restaurant choice and Bratwurst where the Eisbein (pork hock or • Venturing a few kilometers out of shank) is huge and delicious. • In Coburg the recommendations are SEPTEMBER, 1988 the Hotel Blankenburg and for food the Despite our frightening appearance— matted hair, unfocused eyes and hotel’s Restaurant Kräutergarten and the cozy Loreley Restaurant, across from blue jeans — we were greeted as though we were part of King Hussein’s (a Ehrenburg Castle. sometimes guest) entourage. A team of whispering, white-jacketed waiters • Appenzell, a tiny Canton in the hovered around our table, changing plates and silverware more often than the northeast corner of Switzerland, keeps old New York Yankess change managers. — Lunch at the Beau Rivage Palace in traditions alive. We give “excellent” ratings Lausanne after 11 hours over the Atlantic and a three-hour train ride. to three hotels: the Hecht, Säntis and Ap- penzell, with the Hecht getting the nod for value. A restaurant revered by the local our territory into nearby Alsace, we have Smutny, which attracts musicians from the farmers is the Marktplatz. one of the best meals of our lives at the nearby State Opera, leads the way among • Berlin in 1987 is a unique city; sur- French three-star restaurant, Auberge de unpretentious restaurant/taverns. rounded by hostile, communist East Ger- l’Ill. • In Switzerland’s French-speaking many. We tell tales about driving to the • Chalet du Lac, on the Brienzersee, is canton of Vaud, we are dazzled by Lau- city from the West and recommend the praised as a quiet country hotel with an sanne’s fabulous Hotel Le Beau Rivage perfectly located Hotel Am Zoo — then excellent restaurant offering good value. Palace. The restaurant La Grappe d’ Or moderately-priced — and rave about Fofi’s • Our first issue on Zürich has good provides our second best meal of 1988. Estiatario, a chic bistro. things to say about the Hotels Florhof, • Further down the lake in Montreux, • From , on the Rhine at Zum Storchen, Tiefenau, Splügenschloss we praise the atmospheric Hotel Victoria the western end of the Bodensee, we ex- and Eden au Lac. Top restaurant is Peter- and give a rave review to a L’Auberge de plore the region. In the charming Swiss mann’s Kunststube. Chernex, a tiny restaurant-hotel in the hills town of Stein am Rhein two hotels impress • A recommended countryside tour is above the town. us: the Closterhof and the simpler, less a 21-day affair beginning in Frankfurt, • On Germany’s lovely, meandering expensive Hotel Rheinfels, right on the heads south through the Black Forest, on to Mosel river we discover great charm and river. Dinner at the highly touted Fischer- Stein am Rhein in Switzerland, then to value in the Gutshotel des Weingutes, the zunft is an expensive disappointment. Appenzell, to Bavaria with stops in Mitten- main house of a former wine estate. In • Venturing as far to the northwest as wald and Garmisch-Partenkirchen, then to nearby Trier, the Hotel Petrisberg is ”just one can go in Germany we discover Sylt a the Bavarian Forest, to Coburg, up to Ber- the sort of place we had in mind when we skinny island that contains some of Germa- lin and back to Frankfurt by way of the started this newsletter.” The best part of ny’s best hotels and restaurants. The small, Harz Mountains. Total cost, including this trip, however, is a private interview elegant country Hotel Benen-Diken-Hof is airfare and car rental, for two persons is and tasting with two of Germany’s leading our favorite of 1987 and one of the best we about $5800. winemakers, Egon Müller (Scharzhofberg- have seen in the past 10 years. High marks • Aubergine, later to become known Continued on page 4…

Gemütlichkeit 3 December, 1996 tik Hotel Schlosswirt. value. In nearby Oberreitnau we pig out at GEMÜTLICHKEIT 1987-96 • In Davos, the Swiss ski resort, we Gasthof Adler where ”the portions would Continued from page 3 give two stars (excellent) to Hotel Walser- intimidate all but Henry VIII.” hof, a favorite of Britain’s Prince Charles. • Reviewing Vienna’s better restau- er) and Dr. Manfred Prüm (Wehlener Son- rants we give highest marks to Hotel- nenuhr). • In , on the German side of the Bodensee, our hotels of choice are the Restaurant König von Ungarn, Zu Den • A Südtirol () excursion yields the Wilder Mann and the Villa Bellevue. Drei Husaren, Restaurant Daniel and welcoming Hotel Cappella. • We look for the best small hotels in Ristorante Firenze Enoteca. Special note is • In a drive through Bavaria we enjoy Munich and find the Exquisit, the Prinzre- made of the goodies at Wild, a great deli beer and music at the Löwenbrau Stuben gent, the Palace and the König Ludwig. In in the Neuermarkt area. Bayrischzell but find the touted Romantik the city’s Schwabing district we very much • We cruise aboard the Hotel Die Meindelei deteriorating. Hotel like Restaurant Georgenhof and Restau- luxury Danube riverboat, Tonihof, in Eschenloe, is much better. In rant 33. 1990 MS Mozart. Splendid Pfronten, we find a treasure in the Hotel • Hotel Les Sources Des Alpes, in accommodations but Bavaria and great calves liver at the Hotel ordinary food. Post. Leukerbad above Switzerland’s Rhône Valley, is the first to get our highest rating • Communism falls and we send • In Switzerland’s Emmental, we (“memorable experience”) as both a hotel Roger Holliday and Claudia Fischer into stumble on to the Hotel Hirschen, where and restaurant. Here we meet “Mr. T,” the the former East Germany. They visit Er- owner Walter Birkhäuser opens bottle after furt, Weimar and Dresden and, not unex- bottle of Swiss wine in order to pectedly, find bad hotels, make the point that they are almost no restaurants and the equal to any in the world. 25 Best Value Hotels 1987-1996 wonderful people. They meet In order to be allowed to go to a Dresden couple who invite Adam Bodenmais Ger bed we finally agree. Next them to dinner in their home. morning is the hangover of the Auberge de la Couronne Apples Swi • In Zürich we rip the decade. Berggasthof Panorama Garmisch-Partenkirchen Ger Bierhalle Kropf and praise the Domus Berlin Ger • Gemütlichkeit is among Restaurant Blaue Ente. the very first to report that Gasthaus zum Kreuz Freiburg-Kappel Ger • Those tireless globetrot- credit card companies now Gasthof Fraundorfer Garmisch-Partenkirchen Ger ters, Holliday and Fischer, provide collision damage in- Haus Christophorus Kitzbühel Aus report on New Year’s Eve at a surance coverage for those who Haus Sarstein Hallstatt Aus rapidly crumbling Berlin Wall use the credit card to pay for Hecht Appenzell Swi — an historic night. They like the rental. Hirschen Langnau im Emmental Swi the Boka Grill just off the • In Switzer- K & F Hotel Salzburg Aus Ku’damm. land’s Vaudo- Kraft Munich Ger • We list some 200 Ger- 1989 is Alps we fly L’Auberge De Chernex Chernex Swi man restaurants where a three- by helicopter Landhaus Gletschermühle Badgastein Aus course meal can be had for less up to the Les Diableret Glacier Landhaus Sommer am See Füssen Ger than $25. one day and float in a hot-air Pension Aviano Vienna Aus balloon over Château-d’ Oex • We find good value near Pension Heim Seeg Ger the next. The region’s best inn Interlaken at the Hotel Bären Petrisberg Trier Ger is Bon Acceuil. in Wilderswil and a pleasant, Rebenhof Neuweier Ger well-run hotel in Weggis on • The Austrian resort of Schwechater Hof Steyr Aus Lake Lucerne, the Albana. Seefeld has several excellent Seehotel Schiff Mannenbach am Untersee Swi hotels. Our picks are the Gar- • In Geneva, Hotel Le tenhotel Tümmlerhof and the Sidi Prague CZ Richmond gets three stars but Hotel Lärchenhof. Trumer Stube Salzburg Aus not far behind is the smaller Waldhotel Forellenhof Baden-Baden Ger Hotel de la Cigogne. We have • On a one-night stand in unfortunate dining experienc- Zernez, in Switzerland’s Enga- Weinhaus Steichele Nürnberg Ger es at Le Marignac, a Michelin- dine Valley, we find hearty starred restaurant, and at Italian food and decent rooms, Brasserie Lipp. both at good prices, at Sport Hotel Bettini. sadistic therapist, whose best efforts we negate every night in Les Sources’ marvel- • In Zürich we give high marks to the • Cologne hotel picks are the Excelsior ous restaurant and bar. Savoy Hotel Baur en Ville and note the Hotel Ernst and the Europa. Food at Ris- Zeughauskeller is the kind of restaurant toranti Rino Casati is good, the service • Heidelberg’s historic Hotel Hir- “we fly 6,000 miles for...dark wood beams, much less so. The simpler Alt Köln is a schgasse is restored following a fire. We shared tables, extensive menu, adroit much better value. give it two stars. • Of two castle hotels near Graz, we servers who have little time to chat and • Best rental price for a compact car for large plates of delicious, farm-style food one week in Germany is $138. give a slight edge to Schloss Plankenwarth over Schloss Obermayerhofen, due mostly that goes down best with fresh draught • Best hotel of the year is Schloss to the latter’s chilly welcome. However, we beer.” We also discover the Rheinfelder Haunsperg, near Salzburg. The hospitality term Obermayerhofen’s Restaurant Hof- Bierhaus. has to be experienced to be believed. Coun- stüberl “an off-the-beaten-track find.” • In Ascona, we enjoy a delightful try restaurants near Salzburg are the up- • Our top hotel choice in Lindau is three days at one of Switzerland’s finest scale Weisses Kreuz, the Lebzelter, Schlo- country hotels, Albergo Giardino. There, ss Fuschl and the restaurant of the Roman- Garnihotel Reulein, also an excellent

Gemütlichkeit 4 December, 1996 for the first time, we see the Closomat, a the Hotel-Restaurant Fiescherblick. report on Ballenberg, the outdoor, farm device which, through alternating streams • Gemütlichkeit recognizes that its read- museum and the woodcarving factory, H. of warm water and air, takes the place of ers also travel by rail. Train travelers, Hol- Huggler-Wyss. One of Switzerland’s better toilet paper. A morning hike in the coun- liday and Fischer, give us a six-step, how- luxury hotel bargains is the Grandhotel try, led by Hans Leu, the Giardino’s high to guide on riding the rails of Germany, Giessbach; the much cheaper Brienzer- energy owner, finishes with a marvelous Austria and Switzerland and then design a Bürli gets our “significant value” rating. lunch at Stazione “da Agnese” in Intragna. tour of Switzerland that matches the coun- • In a review of Vienna’s three-star • A Lake Geneva find is Hostellerie du try’s legendary transport system with five hotels, our choice is the Kärntnerhof. Débarcardère. good hotels. • Combining good value and charm in • Hamburg’s tiny (14 rooms) Hotel • We give a star to Hostellerie des the Black Forest if the Hotel Dorer in Abtei gets three stars for a “memorable Chevaliers in Gruyères, Switzerland. Schönwald. experience.” So does the famed Vier Jahr- • The Gasthof Post and the Rote • Our rating system is revamped. It is eszeiten. We eat Laubkaus at the Old Com- Wand in Lech in the Austrian Arlberg are not a change for the better. In Lausanne we mercial Room and give a star to the atmo- awarded ”excellent establishment” ratings. give a star (“cut above restaurants in its spheric Ratsweinkeller. An inexpensive, atmospheric restaurant is price class”) to Restaurant La Croix d’ • In Gstaad, where the rich and fa- the Bodenalpe. Ouchy. mous come to ski, we are captivated by Le • Holliday/Fischer report on a tour of • In Freiburg we have a glorious meal Grand Chalet, a gloriously upscale country Northern Germany. They liken Goslar to at the Hotel Markgräfler Hof, most note- hotel in a pasture above the worthy for the “right on” town. One of the best meals of wine recommendations of the year is at the plain Hotel owner Hans Leo Kempchen, Bahnhof in nearby Saanen. Our 25 Favorite Hotels 1987-1996 and another at the less expen- • Graz is a revelation. It has Abtei Hamburg Ger sive Gasthaus zum Kreuz in everything except hordes of Albergo Gardenia Caslano Swi nearby Kappel. Hotels of tourists. We find a friendly wel- Albergo Giardino Ascona Swi choice are the Park Hotel come and good value at the Anker Marktheidenfeld Ger Post and Gasthaus zum Hotel Erzherzog Johann. Best Benen-Diken-Hof Sylt Ger Kreuz. meal is at Kepler Keller. Brandenburgerhof Berlin Ger • Continuing • We describe Hotel Anker Das Triest Vienna Aus 1992 our search in Marktheidenfeld as a “Mer- Exquisit Munich Ger for good cedes Benz of a hotel; solid, not value we Gasthof Fraundorfer Garmisch-Partenkirchen Ger flashy, but everything works and review 11 three-star Munich is built to last.” It’s restaurant, Geiger Berchtesgaden Ger hotels. The best are the Ex- the Weinhaus Anker deserves its Grüner Baum Badgastein Aus quisit, the Olympic and the Michelin star. The Landhaus Gutshotel des Weingutes Neumagen-Dhron Ger Hotel Kraft, which also wins Hubertushof in Altausee, Aus- L’Ermitage Vufflens Swi a “significant value” designa- tria, gets our “memorable experi- Landhaus Hubertushof Altaussee Aus tion. ence” rating. We recommend Le Beau-Rivage Palace Lausanne Swi • We rip Morley Safer Schloss Spangenberg in Germa- Les Sources Des Alps Leukerbad Swi and “60 Minutes” who urge ny and also the excellent Hotel Pension Altstadt Vienna Aus Americans to stay home from der Bär in Ellmau, Austria. Römischer Kaiser Vienna Aus Europe because, among other • The Gulf War Romnatik Hotel Tennerhof Kitzbühel Aus reasons, our collective exhal- begins. Savoy Baur en Ville Zürich Swi ing of carbon dioxide is de- 1991 • Eastern Schloss Haunsperg Obralm Bei Hallein Aus stroying such treasures as the European spe- Schlossli Bottighofen Swi Cathedral of Notre Dame. cialists, Roger Holliday and Victoria Jungfrau Interlaken Swi Since our comments, the Claudia Fischer, begin the year Wald U. Schlosshotel Friedrichsruhe Öhringen Ger show’s ratings have plum- with reviews and updates of Waldhotel Doldenhorn Kandersteg Swi meted. Yeah, not dropped, Budapest and Prague. In the PLUMMETED. We just don’t former they recommend the get easy targets like that anymore. inexpensive Hotel Nemzeti and Restau- Rothenburg but without American tourists rant Kispipa. In Prague they write of a and give high marks to Hotel Villa Berger. • Tiny Wildhaus in Switzerland’s St. dinner for two that included “quite a lot of Celle, they say, is pretty enough to be a Gallen canton is way off the beaten track. beer” at the pivince (beer hall) U Dvou movie set. Their hotel pick is Hotel Caro- Its splendid country chalet, Hotel Alpen- Kocek for which they pay $3.23. A ride on line Mathilde. rose, gets an “excellent” rating plus a “G” the Prague metro system is three cents. award. • Regensburg’s old town hasn't been • In Garmisch-Partenkirchen we call touched by war since 1809. The hotel pick • Our small hotels search continues in the Restaurant Alpenhof the “best in there is the Altstadthotel Arch. Top values Salzburg where top ratings goes to the town.” are the Kaiserhof Am Dom and the Trumer Stube, followed by the Goldfassan • Our first story on self-catering rentals Münchner Hof. Best food is at His- and the low budget Hotel K & F. We like appears and includes a two-week Europe- torisches Eck; best cheap food at the Hof- the food at Zwettler’s, Peterskeller and an vacation for $1,500 per person including bräuhaus. give an “editor’s choice” to Zum Mohren. airfare. • The relatively inexpensive Swiss • We cover Bad Pyrmont, a spa town • In Grindelwald our hotel pick is lakeside town of Brienz is central to many south of Hanover, and get a few com- Grand Hotel Regina and the best value is of the country’s major attractions. We plaints that there are “too many old peo-

Gemütlichkeit 5 December, 1996 This page contain advertsing. Removed for pdf download This page contain advertsing. Removed for pdf download Year.” We find good value at Hotel • In Kitzbühel the clear choice is Ro- GEMÜTLICHKEIT 1987-96 Gasthof Bergheimat. mantik-Hotel Tennerhof. Also very nice Continued from page 5 is Golf-Hotel Ramushof. The Hotel Haus • Holliday/Fischer update Prague. Christophorus is a fine value and Restau- Their restaurant picks are U Semi Andelu ple” in the town. Nonetheless, it is a beau- rant Chizzo serves good food at moderate and U Cerneho Slunce. tiful city and our top hotel choice is prices. • Readers seek informa- Burgkürpark. Best value is the Schloss- • Holliday/Fischer give us our first tion on vacation rentals blick. report on tourist mecca Rothenburg ob der 1993 (Ferienwohnungen) and we • Two very different but very good Tauber. The well-known Eisenhut gets good publish Karl Becker’s hotels are at each end of an interesting marks, especially its restaurant, but a better report on two months of travel throughout drive from Sion to Kandersteg (Switzer- value is Hotel Reichs-Küchenmeister. land) via the Lötschberg Car Train. Hotel Germany using this type of accommoda- tion. His average cost of lodging, all with • We report on a new hotel near Luga- Des Vignes is French and modern, and no. The art-filled Albergo Gardenia, in- Waldhotel Doldenhorn in Kandersteg is private bath, is about $41 per day for two persons cluding its two restaurants Bacco and traditional and German-speaking. The Grotto Valle, is an enthusiastic “editor’s • In Interlaken we use such phrases as Doldenhorn is special. choice.” “sumptuous guest rooms,” “most lavish • Schloss Sommersdorf is one-of-a- • In beautifully preserved Bamberg, kind: a 700-year-old drawbridge castle spa we’ve ever seen” and “ornate, exquis- itely Victorian public rooms” in describing “editor’s choice” designations go to Hotel- with apartments for rent (inexpensive) and Restaurant St. Nepomuk, Hotel Wein- mummies in the basement. the Hotel Victoria Jungfrau. With Bad- • One of our periodic country hotel reports results in an “editor’s choice” for All in all, it was a pretty elitist pitch by Safer and CBS, and their conclusion Gasthof zum Löwen in Worb near Bern that we should all stay home is laughable. After a youth spent dreaming over pic- and an “underachiever” label for the some- ture books of the great churches and castles of Europe are we not to see them for what weird Schloss Feyregg. ourselves? Now that we have the time and the money (barely) are we to heed the • Switzerland’s 100 best restaurants in 1992 are topped by Girardet in Crissier not-in-my-backyard scolding of some elitist, globetrotting TV reporter who’s in (near Lausanne), Petermann’s Kunst- Paris five or six times a year and only sees the flying buttresses of Notre Dame from stuben (Zürich), Le Pont-de-Brent (Mon- the back seat of a limo? No way. — Dear Subscriber, January, 1992 treux), Stucki (Basel) and Restaurant Pier- roz in the Hotel Rosalp (Verbier). gastein’s Grüner Baum (see below) it is our • One of the better simple meals of the “Hotel of the Year.” haus Messerschmidt and the lower-priced Hotel-Gasthof Wilde Rose. Noted for its year is at Restaurant zum Türmli in Watt, • Kur-und Sport Hotel Adam, in smoky beer (Rauchbier) and friendly atmo- Switzerland, about 10 minutes from the Bodenmais near the Czech border, is a sphere is Brauerei Schlenkerla. Zürich Airport. value choice with its own brewery. • We devote two issues to Switzer- • In “post-Wall” Berlin, hotel prices • At the urging of readers we finally land’s Engadine and find Pontresina is less skyrocket. Seeking good value we find get around to the Hotel Grüner Baum in expensive and more charming than nearby Hotel Domus, Kronprinz and, on the the old Austrian spa town of Badgastein. It St. Moritz. A truly first-rate hotel there is eastern side, Hotel Gendarm. The Hotel is Gemütlichkeit’s Country Hotel of the the Kronenhof. La Collina is also recom- Brandenburger Hof, though not cheap, is Decade. Other fine hotels in the town are mended, particularly its restaurant. We very, very chic. We discover a fine, mid- Haus Hirt, also a good value; the classy give Restaurant Sarazena an unfavorable priced neighborhood restaurant, the Flori- little Villa Solitude; and the inexpensive review. On a mountain above Scuol we an. but sparkling Landhaus Gletschermühle. find a great country hotel, the beautiful • The dollar flounders and we layout a Restaurant Brasserie in the Villa Solitude Schloss-Hotel Chastè. Another “editor’s 14-day auto tour for slightly more than is a “cut above” other restaurants in its choice” in Scuol is Romantik Hotel Guar- $2,000 per person including airfare. category. daval and Hotel Chasa Belvair gets a • Near the Bavarian Royal Castles in • Best hotel in the remote Swiss village “significant value” designation. In more Seeg, we unearth one of the more impor- of Wengen is the Regina. Good value is the charming Zuoz, our picks are Schlossho- tant hotel finds of the decade: Pension Alpenruhe. tel Castell and the simpler Hotel Klarer. Heim. The nearby Gasthof Hirsch is also a • Our last stay at Zürich’s Hotel Flo- • Stuttgart is the subject of Holliday/ low budget treasure. In Füssen our choices rhof under the direction of the courtly Herr Fischer report. The hotel choice is the are Landhaus Sommer am See and the Schilter. He retires a few months later and Wörtz zur Weinsteige. Best meal is in the Fürstenhof, both good value. the hotel loses some of its charm. At Res- restaurant of Hotel Schlossgarten. Other • In a review of five-star Swiss hotels, taurant Kronenhalle we are in awe of the restaurants of choice are Weinstube Stut- we ascend to Bürgenstock above Lake restaurant's paintings (Miró, Cézanne, tgarter Stäffele and Weinstube Bacchus. Lucerne to stay at the posh Park Hotel and Monet, Latrec, Matisse, Klee, Chagall, • Train guru Bruce Woelfel makes his rate it “excellent.” Because of the room and Braque and others, all originals). A waiter, first Gemütlichkeit appearance with a how- the view, dinner at Club Bürgenstock is a noting our interest, gives us an impromptu to story on using the Swiss railway net- lovely experience but we find the food not tour including the history and background work. very creative. Zürich’s is of the more prominent works. • The Gemütlichkeit rating indeed grand but dinner in its La Rotonde • Holliday/Fischer report on system is revised — Restaurant is memorable only for undistin- Würzburg and dub Gasthof Zur Stadt 1994 again. Its basis is now a guished food and careless service. Mainz the hotel that best combines charm, 20 point scale. The “G” • In an issue on Berchtesgaden we hospitality and value. The 500-year-old for special places and the “$” for signifi- meet the Hotel Geiger, our “Hotel of the Backöfle is their choice for food. cant value remain.

Gemütlichkeit6 8 December, 1996 • We return to Vienna to seek out the land — namely Ringgenberg near Interlak- bert, reports on apartment and chalet rent- city’s best pensions. Tops is Otto Wie- en — where one bedroom units are $45 to al in Austria. Areas with low prices and senthal’s Altstadt Vienna (our 1994 “Hotel $65 per night. wide selection include the Montafon valley of the Year”), followed closely by Pension in the Vorarlberg; the Zillertal Alps; Strobl, • Baden-Baden has many good to Aviano in the very heart of the Ring. 25 miles southeast of Salzburg; and the great hotels. In September, we single out Worthwhile restaurants noted are Boheme Klopeiner See region near Klagenfurt. Waldhotel Forellenhof and Hotel Reben- and Zur Hohen Brücke Gästatte. An old hof, a hotel in the vineyards, for rustic • We ask Bruce Woelfel to do the near favorite, Smutny, seems to have slipped. charm and value. For luxury we like the impossible: find good, inexpensive to mod- • A tour of Baroque churches of south- Quisisana. The expensive Romantik Der erately priced, hotels in Zürich. The Hotel western Germany begins with a stay at a Kleine Prinz a little too cute for our taste Bristol and Hotel Scheuble both provide pleasant, new Swiss country inn, the and, while the well-known Brenner’s Park doubles under $150. As for restaurants, he Chäseren. Along the way we enjoy the is undeniably a great hotel, there are a few chooses the St. Gotthard Café, the Hotel Falken in Memmingen, Germany. glitches with our stay. Zeughauskeller and the restaurant in the Hotel Florhof. • In Bremen, Fischer/Holliday give • In Graz, Bruce Woelfel gives a “sig- high marks to Hotel Lichtsinn and like the nificant value” rating to the Hotel • Returning to Berlin, we praise the food at the Ratskeller. Ohnime in the Mariatrost section of town. Hotel Savoy and the value offered by the huge Radisson Plaza, but only when spe- • We become infatuated with the Aus- • One of the top 20 hotels of the de- trian country town of Steyr. cial rates are available. Gast- Quality and value is found at haus Krombacher is noted for Hotel Mader on the main its friendly atmosphere and square. Another value — and 25 Best Meals 1987-1996 reasonable prices. less expensive — is Auberge de l'Ill Illhaeusern Fra • Highest possible marks Schwechater Hof. Cheapest Augustiner Gaststätten Munich Ger and our “Hotel of the Year” of all, but still recommended, Bratwursthäusle Nürnberg Ger award go to one of the finest Gasthof Pöchhacher. country hotel and restaurants Hotel Feiler Wiesenttal Ger of the decade, L’Ermitage in • St. Gallen’s best hotel, Fofi’s Estiatorio Berlin Ger Vufflens near Morges on Lac not surprisingly, turns out to Gasthof Adler Lindau-Oberreitnau Ger be the Einstein. We also like Léman. The Auberge de la Gasthof Bammes Nürnberg-Buch Ger the quirky Rössligump. For Couronne in nearby Apples is Gasthof Steinerwirt Zell am See Aus meals typical of the region an excellent value and has a we like Restaurant Anker. Hotel Bahnhof Gstaad-Saanen Swi fine restaurant. Hotel Post Pfronten-Weissbach Ger • We send Bruce Woelfel • In Zell am See, in Aus- Kapt’n Hahn Westerland-Sylt Ger to Austria where he reports tria, our hotel choices are the on Hallstatt and a scenic Kepler Keller Graz Aus Hotel Berner and the Fein- train trip along the Enns Kronenhalle Zürich Swi schmeck. Excellent country river. In Hallstatt he says the Kunst-Hotel Teufelhof Basel Swi cuisine at good prices is “best, friendliest and most La Grappe d’Or Lausanne Swi Gasthof Steinerwirt. expensive” hotel is the L’Ermitage Vufflens Swi • Lausanne’s new Musee Grüner Baum, but his top Hotel Les Sources des Alps Leukerbad Swi Olympique is a triumph of choice is the much less ex- Le Débarcardère St. Sulpice Swi great sculpture, Olympic mem- pensive Haus Sarstein. Le Dézaley Zürich Swi orabilia and multimedia pre- • In our first look at Markgräfler Hof Freiburg Ger sentation. Neuchâtel and La Chaux-de- Ratskeller Spangenberg Spangenberg Ger • Bruce Woelfel uses his Fonds the “editor’s choice” Restaurant Pierroz-Rosalp Hotel Verbier Swi Entertainment Europe card to hotels are the Beaufort and Stazione “da Agnese” Intragna Swi get a 50% discount at Budap- the du Vaisseau and the Weinhaus Anker Marktheidenfeld Ger est's Hotel Gellert, which he Club. Top restaurant choices Weisses Kreuz Am Mondsee Aus rates “above average.” His top are the three in the Hotel- restaurant choice is the Aray- Restaurant du Marche. In- barany and he even recom- triguing sights are the Inter- mends the folkloric dinner national Museum of Horology and the cade turns out to be Kneippkurhaus show at Hotel Tanne. Jaquet-Droz Automatons. Christliches Hospiz in Oberstdorf, Ger- many. Best value in town is the Hotel • Gemütlichkeit returns to Heidelberg • A rebuilding Dresden gets the full Adler. where hotel prices rival those in Berlin, treatment. Most hotels are rated “above Hamburg and Munich. We conclude that average” but Hotel Martha offers the best • Bruce Woelfel starts the the Holiday Inn Crowne Plaza is the best value. The Bayerischer Hof is the best of year with a report on value, but only if one books in the U.S. those we see. Bruce Woelfel, who loves 1995 Prague where he recom- through the main Holiday Inn reservation trains and especially dining on trains, mends the City-Hotel service. Even the simple Gasthof Hack- reports on his lunch at 125 MPH on the Moran, the Hotel Adria-Praha and the teufel has double rooms as high at 250 DM Heinrich Heine between Dresden and Restaurant Adria (no relation to the hotel). ($190). Kurpfälzisches is our restaurant Mannheim. • “Editor’s Choice” hotels on the pick this time around. • A story on apartment rental in Swit- Swiss side of the Bodensee are Schlössli • We publish the first leg of our zerland reports good values in Ticino, Bottighofen near Kreuzlingen and Ro- “Grand Tour,” a self-guided affair that Valais, the Engadine, Northeastern Swit- mantik Hotel Krone in . incorporates many of our favorite cities, zerland and especially in the Bernese Ober- • Canadian travel writer, John Her- Continued on page 8…

Gemütlichkeit 97 December, 1996 Kempinski Hotel Corvinus, CH-2000, Neuchâtel, 4138/24 00 24, GEMÜTLICHKEIT 1987-96 choice to Hotel Hafen Ham- 4138/24 78 94 burg. His unfavorable com- the Astoria Hotel, Hotel Mer- Continued from page 7 Benen-Diken-Hof, Süderstrasse, D- ments on the welcome and cure Korona and restaurants 25980, Sylt, 04651/3 10 35, 04651/35835 towns, villages, sights, hotels service at Restaurant Peter Százéves, Kisbuda Gyöngye, Berggasthof Panorama, St. Anton 3, D- 82467, Garmisch-Partenkirchen, 08821/ and backroads. It is 14 days, Lembcke sets off a lively series Múzeum and Paksi Halv- endéglö. 25 15, 08821/48 84 starts in Zürich and ends in of letters in “Readers’ Forum” Berghotel Latscheneck, Kaffeefeld 1, Frankfurt. Some of the stops about whether Northern Ger- • Gemütlichkeit returns to D-82481, Mittenwald, 08823/1419 along the way are Appenzell, mans are a frosty lot who don’t Berlin, a city in the throes of Berner, Nikolaus-Gassner-Promenade much like Americans or wheth- massive changes, to see the 1, A-5700, Zell am See, 06542/2557, Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Mu- 06542/25577 nich, the Bavarian Forest and er Americans don’t dress prop- world’s largest construction Birkenhof, von-Eiff-Strasse 37, D- Bamberg. erly when dining abroad or pay project at Potsdamer Platz and 63456, Hanau am Main, 06181/6 48 80, • In September, for the enough attention to local cus- the resurrection of Friedrich- 06181/64 88 39 Blankenberg, Rosenauer Str. 30, D- first time we address the issue toms. strasse, which, before the war, was the town’s premiere shop- 96450, Coburg, 09561/75005 of travel planning on-line and • The friendly Hegers Bon Accueil, CH-1837 , Chateaux d conclude that the conventional Parkhotel Flora in the Black ping, entertainment and busi- Oex, 029/46320 methods — telephone, travel Forest gets an “editor’s choice.” ness street. Brandenburgerhof, Eiselbenerstrasse agents, guidebooks — are still • In the Austrian lakeside • Switzerland’s spa indus- 14, D-10789, Berlin, 030/21405 0, 030/ try has spent more than half a 21405 100 easier, quicker and more reli- town of Attersee we find a Brenner’s Park Hotel & Spa, Schiller- able. good selection of moderately- billion dollars in the last six strasse 6, D-76530, Baden-Baden, years on new and updated 07221/9000, 07221/38772 • In Lucerne we review a priced accommodations, in- facilities. We report on six spa Brienzerburli, CH-3855, Brienz, 036/ batch of expensive hotels and cluding the Hotel-Seegasthof hotels. 511241, 036/513841 choose the Hotel Montana as Oberndorfer and several pleas- Bristol, Stampfenbachstrasse 34, CH- the one that best combines ant apartments. • We never tire of Vienna, 8035, Zürich, 01/2618400, 01/2511951 luxury with value. Our restau- • Gemütlichkeit contributor Europe’s music center. This Budapest Hilton, Hess Andras ter 1-3, H-1014, Budapest, 361/1751000, 361/ rant pick is Zunfthaus zu Karen Pasold reports on the time around we find a stun- ning new hotel, Das Triest, 1560285 Pfistern. Hotel Weinhaus am Alten Burgkürpark, Ockelstrasse 11, D-31812, and a lively, moderately-priced • “Grand Tour - Part II” is Markt in the picturesque Ger- Bad Pyrmont, 05281/4001, 05281/4004 man town of Miltenberg. Beisel, Spatzennest. Cappella, 39030 Colfosco, Val Badia, routed over some of Austria’s 04-71836183 • In Germany’s most popu- HOTELS most scenic roads and includes Caroline Mathilde, Bremer Weg 37, stops in Zell Am See, Salzburg, lar resort, Garmisch-Parten- Abtei, Abteistrasse 14, D-20149, Ham- Celle, D-29223, 05141/32023, 05141/ burg, 040/4495 95, 040/449820 Murau, Graz, Rust and Vienna. kirchen, we tag fun-loving 32028 Gasthof Fraundorfer as the Adam, D-94249, Bodenmais Chalet du Lac, CH-3807 , Iseltwald, • Basel, a wonderful city Adler, Fuggerstrasse 1, D-87561, 036/451112, 036/45 11 44 that draws few American “prototype Bavarian inn.” Oberstdorf, 08322/30 59, 08322/8187 Other “editor’s choice” selec- Chasa Belvair, Bad Scoul, CH-7550, visitors, gets two “editor’s Adria, Liebigstrasse 8a, D-80538, Bad Scoul, 081/864/93/94, 081/864 99 choice” hotels, the Drei Köni- tions: Hotel Berggasthof Pan- Munich, 089/293081, 089/227015 82 Adria Praha, Vaclavske namesti 26, ge and, by the railway station, orama, Hotel Sonnenbichl and Chäseren, Wald-Schönengrund, CH- Ferienwohnungen Regina. CZ-110 00, Prague, 02/242 19274, 02/ 9105, 071/571751, 071/571759 the Hotel St. Gotthard. We 242 11025 City Hotel Moran, Na Morani 15, CZ- also report on the city’s out- • Twenty-five-year-old Albana, CH-6353, Weggis, 041/93 21 120 00, Prague 2, 02/249 1528, 02/29 standing zoo and the good Gemütlichkeit staffer Andrew 41, 041/93 29 59 7533 Albergo Giardino food at Restaurant Der Teufel- Bestor reports on 16 days in the , CH-6612, Ascona, Closterhof, CH-8260, Stein am Rhein, excellent campgrounds of 093/35 01 01, 093/361094 054/42 42 42, 054/41 13 37 hof. Alpenrose, CH-9658, Wildhaus (Ober- Germany and Switzerland. He Club, rue de Parc 71, CH-2300, La • In a return to Prague, toggenburg), 074/52121, 074/51052 Chaux de Fonds, 039/ 23 5300, 039/ 23 and ‘significant other’ Margaret Holliday/Fischer discover the Alpenruhe, CH-3823, Wengen, 036 55 9501 discover they can, except for 27 44, 036 55 27 77 Das Triest, Wiedner Hauptstrasse 12, tiny Hotel Sidi, by the Charles airfare, see Europe for less than Altstadthotel Arch, Haidplatz 4, D- A-1040, Vienna, 01/589 18-0 Bridge, and give an “editor’s $50 per day each. One night 93047, Regensburg, 0941/50 20 60, De La Cigogne, 17 Pl. Longemalle, CH- choice” to Restaurant Kampa 0941/5 02 06 68 1204, Geneva, 022/21 42 42, 022/21 40 they, like many Gemütlichkeit Park. Am Zoo, Kurfürstendamm 25, D-10719, 65 folk before them, drink a little Berlin , 030/883091 De La Poste, CH-1936 , Verbier VS 18, • We begin too much beer at the Fraundor- An der Oper, Falkenturmstr. 10, D- 026/75681 the 10th year fer in Garmisch-Partenkirchen. 80331 , Munich, 089/290 0270, 089/ Der Bär, A-6352, Ellmau, 05358/2395, 2900 2729 05358/23 9556 1996 with John • In an update on Munich Herbert’s Andrea, Holzweg 10, D-94249, Boden- Des Vignes, CH-1958, Uvrier-Sion, we revisit a number of old mais, 09924/3-86, 09924/74 74 027/311671, 027/313727 story on good value rentals in favorites including Restaurant Anker, Obertorstrasse 6, D-97828, Dolder Grand, Kurhausstr. 65, CH- Switzerland’s Emmental, Marktheidenfeld, 09301/6 00 40, 8032, Zürich, 01/251 6231, 01/251 8829 zum Bürgerhaus, where we 09301/600 47 where an apartment near have a terrible meal, and the Domus, Uhlandstrasse 49, D-10719, Langnau with kitchen, dining Appenzell, CH-9050, Appenzell, 071/ Berlin, 030/88 20 41, 030/882 0410 Hotel Adria which is still o.k. 787 4211 room, living room, bedrooms Domus, St-Anna-Strasse 31, D-80538, but beginning to need refur- Astoria Hotel, Kossouth Lajos u. 19, H- Munich, 089/221704, 089/2285359 and bath rents for less than $55 bishment. Two hotels we still 1053, Budapest, 1/117-3411, 1/118-6798 Dorer, Franz-Schubertstr. 20, D-78141, per day. like very much are the Domus Auberge de la Couronne, CH-1143, Schönwald, 07722/9 50 50, 07722/9 50 Apples, 021/800 3167 530 • Holliday/Fischer report and the Exquisit. on a one-day rail excursion Bären, CH-4622, Egerkingen-Langen- Drei Könige, Blumenrain 8, CH-4001, • Karen Pasold reports on bruk, 062/601414 Basel, 061/261 5252, 061/261 2153 from Salzburg that includes a an extended stay in Budapest. Bavaria, Kienbergstr. 62, D-87459, Dreieich, Frankfurter Str. 49, Langen, four-hour walk from Bad- Out of some 25 hotels and Pfronten, 08363/90 20, 08363/68 15 D-63225, 06103/2-10-01, 06103/5 20 30 gastein to Bad Hofgastein. Bayerischerhof, Antonstrasse 35, D- Du Vaisseau, Petit-Cortaillod Plage, restaurants reviewed, “editor’s 01097, Dresden, 0351/5024/193/94, CH-2016, Cortaillod, 038/42 1942, 038/ • In Hamburg Bruce choice” designations go to 0351/5780 589 421092 Woelfel gives an editor’s Beaufort, 1 Esplanade du Mont-Blanc, Eden au Lac, 11 rue du Theatre, CH-

Gemütlichkeit 108 December, 1996 1820, Montreux, 021/9635551, 021/ 2681999 10711, Berlin, 030/89 60 30, 030/893 Trier, 0651/41181 9631813 Grand Hotel Regina, CH-3818, Grind- 1215 Post, Kemptener Strasse 14, D-87459, Einstein, Berneggstrasse 2, CH-9002, St. elwald, 036/545455, 036/534717 L’Auberge De Chernex, CH-1822 , Pfronten-Weisback, 08363/5032 Gallen, 071/20 00 33, 071/ 23 54 74 Grand Villa Castagnola, Viale Castag- Chernex, 021/9644191, 021/964 68 57 Prinzregent, Ismaninger Strasse 42-44, Eisenhut, Herrngasse 3, D-91541, nola 31, CH-6906, Cassarate, 091/ L’Ermitage, CH-1134, Vufflens, 021/ D-81675, Munich, 089/4702081, 089/ Rothenburg o.d. T, 09861/70 50, 09861/ 512213 802 2191, 021/802 2240 4702392 70545 Grandhotel Giessbach, CH-3855, La Collina, CH-7504, Pontresina, 081/ Privathotel Quisisana, Bismarckstrasse Erzherzog Johann, Sackstrasse 3-5, A- Brienz, 036/513535, 036/513707 84201 21, 081/842 79 95 21, D-76530, Baden-Baden, 07221/3440, 8010, Graz , 0316/81 16 16, 0316/81 15 Grüner Baum, Kotschachtal, A-5640, Landhaus Gletschermühle, Gletscher- 07221/38195 15 Badgastein, 06434/25 160, 06434/25 16 mühlestrasse 7, A-5640, Badgastein, Radisson Hotel Berlin, Karl-Liebnecht Europa, Am Hof 38-46, D-50667, 125 06434 20 970, 06434 23 80 30 Strasse 5, D-10178, Berlin, 030/23828, Cologne, 02/212058-0 Gutshotel des Weingutes, Balduinstr. Landhaus Hubertushof, Puchen 86, A- 030/23827590 Excelsior Hotel Ernst, Domplatz, D- 1, D-54347, Neumagen-Dhron, 06507/ 8992, Altaussee/Steiermark, 06152/ Rebenhof, Weinstrasse 58, D-76534, 50667, Cologne, 02/212701 2035, 06507/5644 71280 Neuweier, 07223/5406, 07223/52321 Exquisit, Pettenkoferstrasse 3, D-80336, Hackteufel, Steingasse 7, D-69117, Landhaus Sommer am See, Weid- Regina, CH-3823, Wengen, 036/55 15 Munich, 089/5519900, 089/55199499 Heidelberg, 06221/27162, 06221/ achstrasse 74, D-87629, Füssen, 08362/ 12, 036/55 15 74 Falken, Rossmarkt 3, D-87700, Mem- 165379 2481, 08362/2074 Reichs-Kuchenmeister, Kirchplatz 8, mingen, 08331/47081, 08331/47086 Hafen Hamburg, Seewartenstrasse 9, Larchenhof, A-6100 , Seefeld, 05212/ D-91541, Rothenburg o.d.T, 09861/ Feiler, Oberer Markt 4, D-91346, Wie- D-20459, Hamburg, 040/311130, 040/ 2383 2046, 09861/86965 senttal, 09196/9 29 50, 09196/362 3192736 Le Beau-Rivage Palace, 1006 Ouchy, Rheinfels, CH-8260, Stein am Rhein, Feinschmeck, Dreifaltigkeitgasse 10, A- Harzhotel Romantischer Winkel, CH-1006, Lausanne, 021/617 7711, 054/41 21 44, 054/41 25 22 5700, Zell am See, 06542/2549, 06542/ Bismarckstr. 23, D-37441 , Bad Sachsa, 021/617 78 78 Romantic Hotel Eisenhut, Hernngasse 254949 05523/30 40, 05523/30 41 22 Le Grand Chalet, CH-3780, Gstaad, 3-7, D-91541, Rothenburg o.d.T, 09861/ Ferienwohnungen Regina, Riffel- Haus Christophorus, Marchfeldgasse 030/8 32 52, 030/4 44 15 7050, 09861/705 45 strasse 4, D-82467, Garmisch-Parten- 3, A-6370, Kitzbühel, 05356/27 83, Le Richmond, Jardin Brunswick, CH- Romantik Hotel Bierhütte, Hohenau- kirchen, 08821/56159, 08821/56159 05356/27 85 1211, Geneva , 022/738 51 00, 022/731 Bierhütte, D-94545, Hohenau, 08558/ Fiescherblick, CH-3818, Grindelwald, Haus Hirt, An der Kaiser Promenade, 67 09 315, 08558/23 87 036/534453, 036/534457 Badgastein, A-5640, 06434/2797, 0634/ Les Sources Des Alps, Loche-Les- Romantik Hotel Der Kleine Prinz, Florhof, Florhohgasse 4, CH-8001 , 279748 Bains, CH-3954 , Leukerbad, 027/62 Lichtentaler Strasse 36, D-76530, Zürich, 01/261 44 70, 01/261 46 11 Haus Sarstein, Hallstatt 83, A-4830, 1151, 027/61 3533 Baden-Baden, 07221/3464, 07221/ Furstenhof, Kemptenerstrasse 23, D- Hallstatt, 06134/217 Lichtsinn, Rembertistrasse 11, D-28203, 38264 87629, Füssen, 08362/7006, 08362/6064 Hecht, CH-9050, Appenzell, 071/ Bremen, 0421/ 36 80 70, 0421/32 72 87 Romantik Hotel Die Meindelei, Garnihotel Reulein, Steigstrasse 28, D- 7871026, 071/7871047 Mader, Stadtplatz 36, A-4400, Steyr, Michael-Meindl-Str. 13, D-83735, 88131, Lindau, 7 90 99, 75262 Hegers Parkhotel Flora, Sonnhalde 22, 07252/23358, 07252/233506 Bayrischzell Gartenhotel Tümmlerhof, A-6100 , D-79859, Schluchsee , 07656/70326, Martha, Nieritzstrasse 11, D-01060, Romantik Hotel Guardaval, CH-7550, Seefeld, 05212/2571-0, 05212/2571104 07656/70323 Dresden, 0351/5 24 25, 0351/5 32 18 Bad-Scuol-Tarasp-Vulpera, 084/91 3 21 22, 084/99 7 67 Gasthaus zum Kreuz, Grosstaler- Hirschen, CH-3550 , Langnau im Mercure Korona, Kecskemeti u., H- strasse, D-79117, Freiburg-Kappel, Emmental, 035/21517, 035/256 23 1053, Budapest, 01/117-4111, 01/118- Romantik Hotel Krone, Seestrasse 11, 0761/62055, 0761/64793 Hirschgasse, Hirschgasse 3, D-69120, 3867 CH-8274, Gottlieben, 072/69 23 23, 072/69 24 56 Gasthof Bammes, Bucher Hauptstrasse Heidelberg, 06221/45 40, 06221/454 Montalbano, via Montalbano, CH-6900 63, D-90402, Nürnberg 90-Buch, 0911/ 111 , Lugano, 091/558811 Romantik Hotel Schlosswirt, A-5081 , 381303 Holiday Inn Crowne Plaza, Kur- Montana, Adligenswilerstr. 22, CH- Anif Bei Salzburg, 062/462175 Gasthof Bergheimat, Brandnerstr. 16, fürstenanlage 1, D-69115, Heidelberg, 6002, Lucerne, 041/516565, 041/516676 Römischer Kaiser, Annagasse 163, A- Schönau am Königsee, D-83471, 08652/ 06221/9170, 06221/21007 Münchner Hof, Tandlergasse 9, D- 1010, Vienna, 01/512 7751, 01/512 6080, 08652/608300 Hostellerie des Chevaliers, CH-1663, 93047, Regensburg, 0941/58262 65, 775113 Gasthof Edelweiss, A-6281 Gerlos 8, A- Gruyères, 029/61933, 029/62552 0941/561709 78 Romantik Hotel Tennerhof, Grie- 6281, Gerlos, 05284/5208 Hostellerie du Débarcardère, CH-1025, Nemzeti, Jozsef krt 4, H-1088, Budap- senauweg 26, A-6370, Kitzbühel, 05356/31 81, 05356/ 36 36 70 Gasthof Fraundorfer, Ludwigstr. 24, D- St. Sulpice, 021/691 57 47, 021/691 5079 est, 01/1339160 82467, Garmisch-Partenkirchen, 08821/ Imperial, Kärntner Ring 16, A-1015 , Ohnime, Purbergstrasse 56, Graz, A- Romantik Hotel Zehntkeller, Bahnhof- 2176, 08821/71073 Vienna, 01/50 1100, 01/50110410 8044, 0316/391143, 0316/39114319 str. 12, Iphofen, D-97346, 09223/3062, 09223/1519 Gasthof Pöchhacher, A-4400, Steyr, Jagdschloss Graf Recke, Wald im Olympic, Hans-Sachs-Strasse 4, D- 07252/63173 Pinzgau, A-5742 , 06565/6417, 06565/ 80469, Munich, 089/231890, 089/ Rosalp, CH-1936 , Verbier, 026/31 63 23, 026/31 10 59 Gasthof Post, Dorf 11, A-6764, Lech, 6020 23189199 05583/22060, 05583/220623 K & F Hotel, Rupertgasse 25, A-5020, Öschberghof, Am Golfplatz, D-78166, Rossligump, Zürcherstrasse 62, CH- 9000, St. Gallen, 071/28 32 33 Gasthof Rote Wand, Lech am Arlberg, Salzburg, 0662/873421, 0662/8732419 Donaueschingen, 0771/84600 A-6764, 5583/34350, 5583/343540 Kaiserhof Am Dom, Kamgasse 10-12, Palace, Budapester Strasse 42, Europa Sacher, Philharmonikerstr. 4, A-1015, Vienna, 01/514 56, 01/51 45 78 10 Gasthof Wilde Rose, Kesslerstrasse 7, D-93047, Regensburg, 0941/54027 28, Center, D-10789, Berlin , 030/25497 0, D-96049, Bamberg, 09 51/2 83 17, 09 0941/540 25 030/2626577 Säntis, CH-9050 , Appenzell, 071/87 26 51/22 07 1 Kaiserin Elisabeth, Weihburgasse 3, A- Palace, Trogersatrasse 21, D-81675, 44, 071/71826 Gasthof Zum Alten Brauhaus, 5 1010, Vienna, 01/51 526, 01/51 5267 Munich, 089/4705091, 089/4705090 Savoy, Fasanenstr. 9-10, D-10623, Wiener Strasse, A-8630 , Mariazell, Kärntnerhof, Grashofgasse 4, A-1011, Palais Schwarzenberg, Schwarzen- Berlin, 030/31103-0, 030/31103-333 03882/2523 Vienna, 01/512 19 23, 01/513 22 28 bergplatz 9, Vienna, A-1030, 01/784515, Savoy Baur en Ville, Am Paradeplatz, Gasthof zum Löwen, Enggisteinstr. 3, Kempinski Hotel Corvinus, Erzebet 01/784714 CH-8022 , Zürich, 01/2115360, 01/ CH-3076, Worb bei Bern, 031/839 23 03, ter 7-8, H-1051, Budapest, 1/2661000, Pannonia Hotel Nemzeti, Jozef krt. 4, 2211467 031/839 58 77 1/2662000 H-1088, Budapest, 01/269 9310, 01/114 Scheuble, Mühlegasse 17, CH-8001, Gasthof zur Stadt Mainz, Semmel- Klarer, CH-7524, Zuoz, 082/7 13 21, 0019 Zürich, 01/2518795, 01/2617678 strasse 39, D-97070, Würzburg, 0931/ 082/7 1214 Park Hotel, CH-6363, Bürgenstock, 63 Schloss Dürnstein, A-3601 Dürnstein 53155, 0931/58510 Kneippkurhaus Christliches Hospiz, 25 55, 61 14 15 An Der Donau, A-3601, Dürnstein, Geiger, Stangas, D-83471, Berchtes- Ludwigstrasse 37-41a, D-87561, Oberst- Park Hotel Post, Eisenbahnstrasse 16, 02711/212, 02711/351 gaden, 08652/96 55 55, 08652/965400 dorf, 08322/701-0, 08322/701 516 D-79098, Freiburg, 0761/31683, 0761/ Schloss Feyregg, A-4540, Bad Hall, Gellert, Gellert ter 1, H-1111, Budapest, Kohlmayer, A-5562 , Obertauern, 31680 07258/2591 1/1852200, 1/1666631 06456/282, 06456/282 Pension Altstadt Vienna, Kirchengasse Schloss Fuschl, A-5322 , Hof Bei Gendarm, Charlottenstrasse 60, D- König Ludwig, Hohenzollernstrasse 3, 41, A-1070, Vienna, 01/526 33 99 0, 01/ Salzburg, 06229/253 10178, Berlin, 00372/200 4180, 00372/ D-80538, Munich, 089/335995 523 49 01 Schloss Haunsperg, A-5411 , Obralm 200 4626 König von Ungarn, Schulerstrasse 10, Pension Aviano, Marco d’Avianogasse Bei Hallein, 06245/80 662, 06245/8560 Goldfassen, Stauffeneggstrasse 2, A- A-1010, Vienna, 01/51 58 40, 01/51 58 1, A-1010, Vienna, 01/512 83 30, 01/512 Schloss Neuhof, Neuhofer Str 10, D- 5020, Salzburg, 0662/431436, 48 83 06 96450, Coburg, 09563/2051, 09563/2107 Golf-Hotel Ramushof, Ried-Ecking 16, Kraft, Schillerstrasse 49, D-80336, Pension Heim, Aufmberg 8, D-87637, Schloss Obermayerhofen, A-8272 , A-6370, Kitzbühel, 05356/52 52, 05356/ Munich , 089/59482324, 089/5232856 Seeg, 08364/642, 08364/10 51 Sebersdorf, 03333/2503 5252 49 Kronenhof, CH-7504, Pontresina, 081/ Pension Wolf, Kaigasse 7, Salzburg, A- Schloss Plankenwarth, A-8113 , St. Grand Hotel Hungaria, Rakoczi utca 8420111, 081/8426066 5020 , 0662/84 34 530, 0662/84 24 23 Oswald bei Graz, 03123/2838, 03123/ 28 38 18 90, H-1074, Budapest, 1/3229050, 1/ Kronprinz, Kronprinzendamm 1, D- Petrisberg, Sickingenstr. 11, D-54292, Continued on page 10…

Gemütlichkeit 119 December, 1996 Walserhof, CH-7250 , Klosters, 081/69 Hotel Restaurant St. Gotthard, Bah- Restaurant Marktplatz, CH-9050, 42 42, 081/69 1437 nhofstrasse 87, CH-8032, Zürich, 01/ Appenzell HOTELS/RESTAURANTS Walter Au Lac, Piazza Rezzonico 7, 2115500 Restaurant Muzeum, Muzeum krt. 12, Continued from page 9 CH-6900, Lugano, 091/227425, 091/ Kapt’n Hahn, Trift 10, D-25980, West- H-1088, Budapest, 1/1384221, 1/ 234233 erland-Sylt, 04651/5461 1384221 Schloss Sommersdorf, D-91595, Weinhaus am Alten Markt, Marktplatz Kepler Keller, Stempfergasse 6, A- Restaurant Paksi Halvendeglö, Margit Sommersdorf, 0981/5046 185, D-63897, Miltenberg, 09371/5500, 8010, Graz, 031/72 4 39 krt. 14, H-1125, Budapest, 1/2125599 Schloss Spangenberg, D-34286 , 09371/65511 Kisbuda Gyongye, Kenyeres u. 34, H- Restaurant Pierroz-Rosalp Hotel, rte de Spangenberg, 05663/866, 05663/75 67 Weinhaus Messerschmidt, Lang- 1034, Budapest, 168-6402, 168-9227 Medran, CH-1936, Verbier, 026/76323 Schloss-Hotel Chasté, CH-7553, estrasse 41, D-96047, Bamberg, 09 51/2 Kispipa Restaurant, Akacfa utca 38, H- Restaurant Sarazena, Pontresina, CH- Tarasp-Sparsels, 081/864 17 75, 081/ 78 66, 09 51/26 1 41 1111, Budapest, 361/1422587 7504, 081/8426353, 081/8427921 864 99 70 Weinhaus Steichele, Knorrstrasse 2, D- Krautergarten, Rosenauer Strasse 30, Restaurant Szazeves, Pesti Barnabas u. Schlossblick, Kirchstrasse 23, D-31812, 90402, Nürnberg, 0911/20 43 78, 0911/ D-96450, Coburg, 09561/7500 2, H-1052, Budapest, 1/1183608, 1/ Bad Pyrmont, 05281/4485 221 914 Kronenhalle, Rämistr. 4, CH-8001, 2665240 Schlossgarten, Schillerstrasse 23, D- Wilde Rose, Kesslerstr. 7, D-96047, Zürich, 251 66 69, 251 66 81 Restaurant Zeughauskeller, Bahnhof- 70173, Stuttgart, 0711/2 02 60, 0711/2 Bamberg, 0951/98 18 20, 0951/22071 Kunst-Hotel Teufelhof, Leonhardsgra- strasse 28, CH-8022, Zürich, 01/211 26 90 02 68 88 Wilder Mann, Bismarckplatz 2, D- ben 47, CH-4051, Basel, 061/691 1010, Restaurant zum Türmli, CH-8105, Schlosshotel Castell, Zuoz, CH-7524, 88709, Meersburg, 07532/9011, 07532/ 061/691 1004 Watt, 01/840 44 54 Zuoz, 082/7 01 01, 082/7 3120 9014 Kurpfälzisches, Hauptstrasse 97, D- Rheinfelder Bierhaus, 19 Martkgasse, Schlossli Bottighofen, CH-8598, Wörtz zur Weinstiege, Hohenheimer- 69117, Heidelberg, 06221/2 40 50, Zürich, CH-8001 Bottighofen, 072/75 12 75, 072/75 15 40 strasse 30, D-70184, Stuttgart, 0711/236 06221/140639 Rino Casati, Eberplatz 3, D-50668, Schwarzer Adler, Kaiser Hager- 7001, 0711/236 7007 La Croix d’Ouchy, Avenue d’Ouchy Cologne, 0221/721108, 0221/728097 strasse2, A-6020 , Innsbruck, 05222/ Wünschmann, Andreas-Dirk Strasse 4, 43, CH-1006, Lausanne, 021/26 22 23 Ristorante Firenze Enoteca, Singer- 27109 D-25980, Westerland, 04651/5025 La Grappe d’ Or, 3 rue Cheneau-de- strasse 3, A-1010, Vienna Schwechater Hof, Sieringerstrasse 122, Zum Storchen, Am Weinplatz, CH- Bourg, CH-1003 , Lausanne, 021/230760 Smutny, Elisabethstrasse 8, A-1010, A-4400, Steyr, 07252/53067, 07252/ 8001, Zürich 22, 01/2115510, 21164-51 La Malvoise (Hotel Les Sources des Vienna, 0222/587 13 56 5477054 Restaurants Alps), CH-3954, Leukerbad, 062 11 51, Spatenhaus, Residenzstrasse 12, D- Seegasthof Oberndorfer, Hauptstrasse 061 35 33 80333, Munich, 089/227841 18, A-4864, Attersee, 07666/7864-0, Adria, Narodni tr. 40, Prague 1, 02/242 Le Dézaley, Römergasse 7, CH-8001, Stazione “da Agnese”, CH-6655, 07666/786491 28065 Zürich, 01/251 6129, 01/252 2702 Intragna, 091/796 1212, 091/796 3133 Seehotel Schiff, CH-8268 , Mannen- Alt Köln, Trankgasse7-9, D-50667, Le Gitan, CH-3920, Zermatt, 028/ Stucki, Bruderholzallee 42, CH-4059, bach am Untersee, 072/631155 Cologne, 0221/137471 671098 Basel, 061/361 82 22, 361 82 03 Sidi, CZ-110 00, Prague, 02/536 135 Aranybarany, Harmincad U. 4, H-1063, Budapest, 1172703 Le Marignac, 32 av. Eugene-Lance, CH- Szazeves, Pesti Barnabas u. 2, H-1052, Sonnenbichl, Burgstrasse 97, D-82467, 1212, Grand Lancy, 022/794 04 24/25 Budapest, 118-3608, 266-5240 Garmisch-Partenkirchen, 08821/70 20, Auberge de l'Ill, F-68150, Illhaeusern, Le Pont de Brent, CH-1820, Montreux, Tanne Restaurant, Erze Tamas U.6, H- 08821/702131 89/718323 964 52 30, 964 55 30 2092, Budakezi, 176/6144 Splendide Royale, Riva Antonio Aubergine, Maximiliansplatz 5, D- Lebzelter, A-5450, Werfen, 64 68-212 U Cerneho Slunce, Kamzikova 9, Caccia 7, CH-6900 , Lugano, 091/ 80333, Munich, 089/59 81 71 Loreley, Herrngasse 14, D-96450, Prague 1, 02/236 5769 542001, 091/548931 Augustiner Gaststätten, Neuhauser Coburg, 09561/92470 U Dvou Kocek, Uhelny trh. 10, CZ-110 Splugenschloss, Splugenstr. 2, CH- Str. 16, D-80331, Munich, 089/5519901, Markgräfler Hof, Gerbau 22, D-79098, 00, Prague 1 8002, Zürich, 01/2010800, 01/2014286 089/2605379 Freiburg, 0761/32540, 0761/37947 U Sedmi Andelu, Jilska 20, Prague 1, Sport Hotel Bettini, Hauptstrasse 51, Bierhalle Kropf, In Gassen 16, CH- Matyas Pince, Marcius 15 ter 7, H-1056, 02/266355 Zernez, CH-7530 , 082/81135, 082/ 8001, Zürich, 01/221 18 05 Budapest, 1/1180595, 1/1181650 81510 Bistro 33/Restaurant 33, Feil- Weinhaus Anker, Obertorstr. 13, D- Muzeum, Muzeum krt 12, H-1088, 97828, Marktheidenfeld, 09391/1736, St. Gotthard, Centralbahnstrasse 13, itzschstrasse 33, D-80805, Schwabing, Budapest, 138-4221, 138-4221 09391/1742 CH-4002, Basel, 061/271 52 50, 061/271 089/342528 52 14 Blaue Ente, Seefeldstrasse and Flü- Old Commercial Room, Englishe Weinstube Bacchus, Calwer Strasse 60, Planke 10, D-20095, Hamburg, 040/ D-70173, Stuttgart, 0711/29 68 75 St. Nepomuk, Obere Mühlbrücke 9, D- gasse, CH-8001, Zürich, 01/55 77 06 366319 96049, Bamberg, 09 51/ 2 51 83, 09 51/2 Boka Grill, Fasenstrasse 73, Berlin, Weinstube Stuttgarter, Buschelstrasse 66 51 030/881 38 86 Paski Halvendeglo, Margit krt. 14, H- 2A, D-70178, Stuttgart, 0711/61 72 76 1034, Budapest, 212-5599 Stadt Hamburg, Strandstrasse 2, D- Brasserie Lipp, 8 rue de la Confedera- Weisses Kreuz, Herzog-Odilo-Strasse 25980, Sylt/Westerland, 04651/85 80, tion, CH-1204, Geneva, 022/29 31 22 Petermann’s Kunststube, Seestrasse 25, A-5310, Am Mondsee, 06232 22 54 04651/858220 Bratwursthäusle, Rathausplatz 1, D- 160, CH-8700, Küsnacht, 01/910 5222, Wild, Neuermarkt, A-1010, Vienna 01/910 5244 Taverna, Vaci utca 20, H-1052, Budap- 90402, Nürnberg, 0911/227695 Zeughauskeller, Bahnhofstrasse 28, est, 01/138-4999, 01/1187188 Brauerei Schlenkerla, Dominikanerstr. Peterskeller, St.-Peter-Bezirk 1-4, A- CH-8035, Zürich, 01/2112690 5020, Salzburg, 84-12-680 Tiefenau, Steinwiesstr. 8-10, CH-8032, 6, Bamberg, D-96047, 0951/56060 Zu den drei Husaren, Weihburggasse Zürich, 01/4926500 Fischerzunft, Rheinquai 8, CH-8200, Polster, Am Deckersweiher 26, D-91056, 4, A-1010, Vienna, 01/51 21 092 Erlangen Kosbach, 09131/4 14 32 Tonifhof, Walchenseestr. 42, D-82438, Schaffhausen, 053/53281 Zum Bürgerhaus, Pettenkoferstrasse 1, Eschenlohe, 08824/1021 Florian, Berlin, D10719, 030/313 9184 Ratskeller, Rathaus, D-28195, Bremen, D-80336, Munich, 089/597909, 089/ 0421/32 16 76, 0421/3378121 Trumer Stube, Bergstrasse 6, A-5020, Fofi’s Estiatorio, Rathausstrasse 25, D- 9304313 Salzburg, 0662/74776, 0662/74326 10178, Berlin, 030/242 34 35 Ratskeller Spangenberg, Markt 1, D- Zum Mohren, Judengasse 9, A-5020, 34286, Spangenberg, 05663/341 Victoria, CH-1823 , Glion-sur-Mon- Gastätte Backöfele, Ursulinergasse 2, Salzburg, 0662/84 23 87 treux, 021/9633131, 021/963 31 15 D-97070, Würzburg, 0931/5 90 59 Ratsweinkeller, Grosse Johannisstrasse Zunfthaus zu Pfistern, Kornmarkt 4, 2, D-20095, Hamburg, 040/36 41 53 Victoria Jungfrau, CH -3800, Interlak- Gasthaus Krombacher, Meinekestrasse CH-6000, Lucern en, 036/271111, 036/273737 4, D-10719, Berlin, 030/881 8602 Restaurant Alpenhof, Am Kurpark 10, Zur Hohen Brücke Gastätte, D-82467, Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Villa Bellevue, Am Rosenhag 5, D- Wiplingerstrasse 23, A-1010, Vienna Gasthof Adler, Bodenseestrasse 16, D- 08821/59055 88709, Meersburg, 07532/9770 88131, Lindau-Oberreitnau, 08382/5268 Zwettler’s, Kaigasse 3, A-5020, 0662/ Restaurant Anker, Schmiedgasse 20, Villa Berger, Oberer Triftweg 6, D- 840044 Gasthof Hirsch, Seeg, D-87637 CH-9002, St Gallen, 071/22 36 03 38640, Goslar, 2 16 40, 42206 Gasthof Steinerwirt, Dreifaltigkeit- Restaurant Boheme, Spittleberggasse Villa Principe Leopoldo, via Montal- Coming Attractions: gasse, A-5700, Zell am See, 06542/2502 19, A-1010, Vienna, 0222/933173 bano 5, CH-6900, Lugano, 091/558855 ❒ Georgenhof, Friedrichstrasse 1, D- Restaurant Chizzo, Josef Herold Str. 2, Weimar: Europe's “Cul- Villa Solitude, Kaiser Franz Josef Str. 80801, Munich 40, 089/393101 Kitzbühel, A-6370, 05356/2475 tural City” for 1999, readies 16, A-5640, Badgastein, 06434/5101/ Girardet, CH-1023, Crissier, 021/634 Restaurant Daniel, Seilerstatte 16, A- for the spotlight. 5102, 06434/5101 3 0505 1010, Vienna ❒ Wald Und Schlosshotel Friedrichsru- Heuriger Restaurant, A-1010, Vienna Appenzell retains it he Restaurant Kampa Park, Na Kampa , D-74639, Öhringen, 07941/6 08 70, Historisches Eck, Watmarkt 6, D- country charm. 07941/61 46 8 8b, 110 00, Prague, 534 856 534 800 93047, Regensburg, 0941/5 89 20, 0941/ Restaurant Kisbuda Gyöngye, Keny- ❒ Waldhotel Doldenhorn, CH-3718, 562969 Restaurant value in Kandersteg, 033/751818, 033/751828 eres u. 34, H-1034, Budapest, 1/ Zürich. Hofbräuhaus, Waaggässchen 1, D- 1686402, 1/1689227 Waldhotel Forellenhof, Gaisbach 91, 93047, 0941/51280 ❒ D-76534, Baden-Baden, 07221/9740, Restaurant Korso, Mahlerstrasse 2, A- Driving tour of the Vau- Hotel Bahnhof, CH-3792, Gstaad- 07221/974299 1010, Vienna, 01/515 16546, 01/ dois Alps. Saanen, 303/414 22 5156550

Gemütlichkeit 1210 December, 1996