On the Cover Contents of Issue 148

The cover photo was taken by Todd Brown at an early-season Minute- The Masthead...... 4 man MYC regatta at the Needham, Massachusetts, reservoir. The is Al President’s Letter...... 5 Fearn’s One Meter coming in “hot” for a pit stop. Model Yachting News...... 6 The Soling One Meter is the most popular AMYA model class, AMYA Business Calendar...... 6 having the most number of members with at least one registered boat. The Soling One Meter Class...... 7 Many clubs around the country sponsor racing fleets for this fine model The Stowe Yacht Club...... 9 yacht. This is also a “builders” class, so most of the articles include many Palm Beach Gardens: Building a Strong Club...... 10 helpful building tips. You will find this information especially helpful for Soling One Meter Construction Tips...... 12 building any class of model yacht with a plastic . Building Hints and Suggestions...... 15 This issue also includes the Nominations and Motions for the 2007 A Drum for the Soling One Meter...... 18 AMYA Ballot. There are significant motions affecting the AMYA Consti- The Soling One Meter Building Jig...... 21 tution and Bylaws, as well as several classes, that bear careful reading and Calculating S1M & Main Geometry...... 23 possible comment, depending on your point of view. Tuning and Your S1M in Light Winds...... 25 The Classic Soling One Meter Cradle...... 26 The American Model Yachting Association (AMYA) is a not-for- Diamond & Sidestay Building Jigs...... 27 profit organization dedicated to promoting the designing, building, Allowable Soling One Meter ...... 28 racing, and preservation of all model sailing and is open to all Product Review: The S1M Carry All...... 29 people who are interested in these activities. Assembling a Santa Barbara, Continued...... 30 In pursuit of these goals, the AMYA publishes Model Yachting maga- Let’s Race With The Rules, Rules Tutorial, Part 5...... 33 zine. Model Yachting is published four times per year in accordance with Regatta Reports...... 37 the AMYA calendar. The staff of the magazine is composed primarily of Cartoon...... 43 AMYA member volunteers who devote countless hours of their time to produce this publication. Editorial policy is ultimately determined by the Regatta Schedule...... 44 AMYA Board of Directors; however, the views expressed in this publica- Class News & Views...... 45 tion do not necessarily represent the views of the Executive Board, the Soling One Meter...... 45 Board of Directors, or the majority of the AMYA membership. Victoria...... 45 Advertising in this publication is encouraged as an informative US One Meter...... 46 service to the AMYA members and as a means of helping defray the Marblehead...... 47 costs of printing. The AMYA does not take any responsibility for any ODOM...... 48 advertiser’s products. CR 914...... 48 This issue of Model Yachting, except those parts as are specifically IOM...... 48 stated, is Copyright © 2007 by the American Model Yachting Associa- 36/600...... 49 tion, April 2007. All rights reserved. V-32...... 50 45...... 51 Advertiser Index Santa Barbara...... 52 Open...... 52 American-RC.Com 52 SeaWind...... 53 Black 8 Soling 50...... 54 Bob’s BoatYard 27 US12...... 54 Carr Sails 21 Footy...... 55 Chesapeake Performance Models 49 Newport 12 Meter...... 56 Dennis Desprois’ Walrus Sails 25 AC Class...... 56 GBMY—Great Basin Model Yachting 24 J...... 58 GRP Model Yachts 2 ...... 58 Hanna 68 Wheeler...... 59 Hitec 20 Infinity 54...... 59 Model Yacht Fittings 57 Call for Nominations to the AMYA Hall of Fame...... 60 R/C Concepts 26 Model Boat Serenity...... 60 RMD Marine 59 2007 AMYA Nominations & Motions...... 61 RMG Sailwinch 21 2007–2008 Editorial Calendar & Schedule...... 63 Scale Sailing 54 AMYA Stats & Facts...... 64 The Boat Shop 32 AMYA Yacht Registration Form...... 64 Traplet Distribution USA Ltd 67 AMYA ’s Store Order Form...... 65 US 12 and Liberty 34 55 AMYA Membership Application Form...... 65 Victor Model Products 9 Vision Sails 28 Issue 149 Final Deadline is June 26, 2007 Featuring Windjammin Sails 5 Webb-Tite by Bill Webb 32 US One Meter & ODOM American Model Yachting Association © 2007 Issue 148 3 Assembling a Santa Barbara Supplement

Graphics like these make it easy to see your boat when racing in a large fleet. Photo by John Richmond. by Rich Matt a big surprise that the AMYA’s most popular vised hardware. This new boat will have hard- he first half of the article, “Assem- class and its very energetic class secretary, Paul ware items now readily available from Ludwig bling a Santa Barbara OD—Part Fixx, provided the editors with an abundance Manufacturing and SAILSetc. I,” was published in the previous is- of S1M articles and photos. Here is a short progress report on the new sueT (147) of Model Yachting. It described what Skipping over to the next issue of the boat’s assembly. The hull, weighted , and parts and pieces would be needed for building magazine has generated a new deadline for arrived in a sturdy wooden shipping a S/B OD and where to get them. Also covered submitting Part II. Time has become available crate. The two-color hull, white bottom and in Part I were instructions for mounting the for building a new boat. So, a new boat was red topsides, is perfectly fair and glossy. One removable keel and rudder and installing the ordered from a new S/B OD supplier, Ludwig concern: About a quarter-inch of fiberglass wooden parts that would support the winch, Manufacturing Co. This is an opportunity to material needs to be removed so as to bring the radio, servos, and . provide a comparison to the Hartman Fibre- edge of the hull down to the scribed line Part II of the article, which was intend- glass product shown in Part I. that indicates the top edge. Sanding ed to be included in this issue (148) will de- Part II’s postponement also allows time away this “flash” by hand is a chore. Removing scribe hatches, spars, hardware, and rigging. to rig the boat using deck and rigging hard- it with a power tool is risky to both you and It turned out, however, that so much material ware currently available. Since Vortex, Probar, the boat. A suggestion: Talk to Larry Ludwig about the featured class, the Soling One Meter and Fisher, the traditional suppliers of larger- about doing this trimming for you. Like the (S1M), was submitted for this issue that there boat hardware are no longer in business; fit- Hartman S/B OD, some artistic work with was not enough space to include the second ting out the deck and rig has meant using a sanding will be needed to fit the keel half of the Santa Barbara article. It is not a lot of homemade, scrounged-up, and impro- top into the hull’s keel socket. When the time

Paper clamps the sheer strips in place while the epoxy glue sets. Photo by Rich Matt. 30 Issue 148 Model Yachting Magazine © Summer Issue, 2007 Now that all wooden parts, sail control unit, and radio gear are installed, the boat is ready for the deck. Photo by Rich Matt. comes, as with any other boat, a rattle-can of ing Blocks. The bottoms of these blocks need handle (#7). paint will be needed to finish the hull-to-deck to be shaped to fit the top of the keel socket. #3. On a S/B OD, it’s a long way to joint, keel top, and keel edges. A three-eighth-inch hole needs to be drilled the rudder. A stiff, kink-free fiberglass arrow Installing the below-deck wooden parts down the center of the block, and a length of shaft connects the rudder servo to the rudder in the Ludwig boat is the same as that de- three-eighth-inch, outside-diameter brass tub- control horn. scribed in Part I for the Hartman hull. Being a ing is fitted into the hole. The tubing needs to #4. Nylon tubing is used as near-fric- extend a quarter-inch higher than the block so tion-free plumbing for the main sheet. From as to accommodate the Keel Block Thwarts and the main sheet exit on deck (outside the photo extend about one-eighth inch under the block to the left of the number “4”), the tubing is led so as to fit into the bolt hole in the fiberglass. low in the hull and under the keel-mounting Both Hartman and Ludwig have the thwarts. From there it is led halfway up and threaded bolts securely imbedded down in the secured to the Support post. keel. There is little risk of having a keel break #5 & #16. The deck stringers rest on loose, as might be the case when, instead, the notched risers at a height that places them on nuts are imbedded in the keel. a straight line above the thwarts from to The following numbered paragraphs ex- . plain the function of the numbered parts in #6. This length of nylon tubing runs the photo at the bottom of this page. from the thwart, all the way aft and up through #1. When carrying the boat to and from the deck at the . Notice the line in the Keel Bolt Mounting Blocks needed for the Lud- the pond, a good deal of weight is carried by tubing: it runs from a clip on the , wig Mfg. hull. Photo by Rich Matt. the handles. The thwarts, fore and aft the hatch through the tubing, and is then clipped to a one design, you would think and hope so! The opening, are notched so as to hook under the screw-eye imbedded in the sail-control swing- only difference is that the Ludwig keel has two sheer strip. ing arm. This screw-eye is offset one-half inch mounting bolts instead of Hartman’s three. It #2. The thin strip of acting as a behind the swinging arm‘s pivot point.. As the will be necessary to add to the Wooden Parts doubler to the handle side of the thwart serves arm swings forward when easing the sheets, the List a pair of 1” x 2” x 3” Keel Bolt Mount- to provide a solid ledge for the top of the backstay is eased. As the arm swings aft when

The numbers in this photo are referred to in the above text of this article. Photo by Rich Matt

American Model Yachting Association © 2007 Issue 148 31 EC-12 THE BOAT SHOP 863.655.4153 MONEY BACK GUARANTEE HULLS FROM $135

HULLS: ONE COLOR OR TWO COLORS FROM THE WATERLINE DECKS: TWO LIGHT WEIGHT DECKS AVAILABLE RUDDER: HALF SHELL KITS W/ BEARING & S/S SHAFT LEAD BALLAST: FITS KEEL SLOT HATCH KITS AND BOAT CRADLES FINISHED & PARTIALLY FINNISHED BOAT PRICES ON REQUEST FREE BUILDER’S ASSISTANCE SHIPPING & HANDLING EMAIL: [email protected] trimming the sheets, the backstay is drawn Then, too, in strong winds there is no risk of wa- (#18) near the mast to a deck-mounted cleat. tight. It is an automatic backstay adjuster— ter pressure on the rudder overcoming the servo. Note: For illustration purposes, two cleats are no thinking or separate servo required. #11. The battery pack and receiver are temporarily mounted on the thwart. When the #7. Launching and retrieving the boat mounted on the radio board with Velcro. deck is installed, the two cleats will be mount- with one hand, while holding a transmitter in #12. Radio Shack cable ties, positioned ed just aft the mast. the other hand, is a great convenience. These over the top of the radio board and under the #15. Where to lead the antenna wire is 5/8” birch dowels, under swinging arm’s range of throw, prevent a slack always a problem. You want to get as much the hatch opening, serve as handles. sheet from snagging anything. Many swing- wire as high as possible above the waterline. #8. Rubber faucet washers, tight fitting ing-arm installations use a thin sheet of plas- The antenna should also run along the boat’s around the keel bolts, keep the dry. tic model airplane windshield material under centerline so as to lessen the signal lowering ef- #9. The Sail Control Unit, an Ozmun the sheets—same sort of thing. fect when the boat is heeled over. Hard to see in Design W-12, uses one leg of a model airplane #13. The sheets: The main sheet is led the photos is the antenna being led through a landing gear as the swinging-arm. The arm, from the deck exit hole (#4), through the length of nylon tubing. being about an eighth-inch thick, allows for tubing that runs under the keel mounting If it happens that you are well along in the holes where the sheets pass through to be thwarts and ends in an upward bend halfway planning to order a Santa Barbara OD, or are rounded with a countersink bit. These round- up the mast-step support (#17). From there, already building one according to Part I of this ed-hole openings provide a relatively friction- the sheet passes through the starboard half of article, contact me, and I will forward you an free bearing for the sheets. the PeKaBe double-block, also secured to the advance copy of Part II. About the time this #10. Using a big, slow, “quarter-scale” servo mast step support. Then, the main sheet goes issue of Model Yachting has been edited, for- to work the rudder on a big boat like the S/B, aft, does a 180-degree turn through a hole in matted, printed, and mailed, Part II should be EC12, 10R, or AC provides turns that are fast the swinging arm, forward again through a available. My address info can be found on page enough, but without the servo “putting on the screw-eye (#14) situated low on the mast-step 4, The Masthead, indicated as Photo Editor. brakes” when given a sharp application of rudder. support, and finally through a hole in the deck

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32 Issue 148 Model Yachting Magazine © Summer Issue, 2007

On the Cover Contents of Issue 149

he cover photo was taken by Pat Butterworth. In the late af- ternoon sun, Jim Linville’s Talon II (54) just begins to bear 2007 Ballot on page 63 off as Herb Dreher’s Talon (441) crosses her bow on star- board.T Each Talon II, in its entirety, exhibits the fine craftsmanship of The Masthead...... 4 Ken Bauser, of Waterbury, Connecticut. President’s Letter...... 5 This issue of Model Yachting features articles about the US One Cartoon...... 5 Meter and ODOM Classes of model yachts. The ODOM is a successful Model Yachting News...... 6 early US One Meter design that was saved by adapting One Design rules, AMYA Business Calendar...... 6 as the Developmental Class, US One Meter boats progressed in their The US One Meter Class Introduction & History...... 7 design. Many ODOM boats are dual-registered in both classes. These Fitting Out a US One Meter Rig...... 10 articles offer significant insight into building and sailing skills for both Modifying a Spektrum DX6 Transmitter...... 13 types of classes and can certainly help skippers in any class in their un- Spektrum DX6 Lessons Learned...... 15 derstanding of model yachting technique and skill. ODOM (One Design One Meter) Introduction...... 16 How I Built My ODOM Rig...... 16 The American Model Yachting Association (AMYA) is a not-for- Let’s Add Some Science to Building a Boat...... 20 profit organization dedicated to promoting the designing, building, ODOM Tuning Guide by Proxy...... 23 racing, and preservation of all model sailing yachts and is open to all people who are interested in these activities. ODOM Tips, Tricks and Techniques...... 30 In pursuit of these goals, the AMYA publishes Model Yachting maga- Reflections on Transforming the Mistral into a 36/600...... 34 zine. Model Yachting is published four times per year in accordance with Let’s Race With The Rules, Rules Tutorial, Part 6...... 35 the AMYA calendar. The staff of the magazine is composed primarily of Vintage Speed Rigging...... 40 AMYA member volunteers who devote countless hours of their time to Assembling a Santa Barbara, cont...... 42 produce this publication. Editorial policy is ultimately determined by the Regatta Reports...... 43 AMYA Board of Directors; however, the views expressed in this publica- Regatta Schedule...... 48 tion do not necessarily represent the views of the Executive Board, the Class News & Views...... 49 Board of Directors, or the majority of the AMYA membership. Soling One Meter...... 49 Advertising in this publication is encouraged as an informative East Coast 12 Meter...... 50 service to the AMYA members and as a means of helping defray the Victoria...... 51 costs of printing. The AMYA does not take any responsibility for any advertiser’s products. US One Meter...... 52 This issue of Model Yachting, except those parts as are specifically Marblehead...... 53 stated, is Copyright © 2007 by the American Model Yachting Associa- CR 914...... 53 tion, April 2007. All rights reserved. IOM...... 54 36/600...... 55 Advertiser Index V-32...... 55 Santa Barbara...... 56 American-RC.Com 57 SeaWind...... 56 Bay 51 Open...... 57 Black Sails 52 Soling 50...... 58 Bob’s BoatYard 9 Footy...... 58 Carr Sails 22 US12...... 59 Chesapeake Performance Models 53 Newport 12 Meter...... 59 Dennis Desprois’ Walrus Sails 22 AC Class...... 60 GRP Model Yachts 2 J...... 60 Hanna Boats 68 10 Rater...... 61 Hitec 33 Wheeler...... 62 Isobar 54 Additional Comments on 2007 Motions...... 62 Leading Edge Hobbies 12 2007 AMYA Ballot...... 63 Midwest Model Yachting 5 AMYA Stats & Facts...... 64 Model Yacht Fittings 46 AMYA Yacht Registration Form...... 64 R/C Concepts 48 AMYA Ship’s Store Order Form...... 65 RMD Marine 50 AMYA Membership Application Form...... 66 RMG Sailwinch 55 Scale Sailing 58 Traplet Distribution USA Ltd 67 Issue 150 Final Deadline is Sept. 26, 2007 US 12 and Liberty 34 59 Victor Model Products 49 Featuring Vision Sails 51 Windjammin Sails 15 International One Meter

American Model Yachting Association © 2007 Issue 149 3 Assembling a Santa Barbara, cont. by Rich Matt facturers are three different styles of decks. The hatch opening was “cut” to shape by nce again it is necessary to postpone Hartman R/C Fibreglass has a nicely detailed drilling many 1/16 in. holes, one right next to the Part II of the article “Assembling a Soling-50 style deck and hatch cover. Ludwig other, and then using the same drill to burr away Santa Barbara.” Two reasons: page Mfg. offers a version of the Ocean Racer deck. the material adjoining the holes. Using a saw to spaceO in this issue of Model Yachting is And, Midlife Boats provides already installed make the hatch opening runs the risk of split- limited, and Ludwig Mfg. has run into a delay on the hull a plain, but neat looking, deck. It’s ting the laminate. The section of deck stringer in the production of the new hardware fittings a matter of personal preference which style of directly under the hatch was then cut away. Use needed to complete the assembly. By the time deck to choose. Regardless of deck, the S/B re- sandpaper to smooth the rough opening. of the magazine’s next issue the anticipated mains a proper one-design class. A raised, and sensible, hatch can be made hardware should be available, installed, and Another option when it comes to a deck from 1/4 in. wood and a section of laminate. have been put to a test. is the kind being described in this article—a Cut the fore and aft hatch and hatch coaming Part I of “Assembling a Santa Barbara” 72 in. x 14 in. section of plastic laminate wooden parts to match the crown of the deck. left off with the hull ready for the installation purchased from a cabinet shop. The thin “post Bow the coaming side rails outboard to resem- of a deck. Even though the S/B hull, keel, and forming” grade of plastic laminate makes for ble the curve of the . Assemble, fasten are specified as one-design; the choice a deck that weighs very nearly the same as one with screws, and glue the coaming in place of deck style is pretty much wide open. The only made of fiberglass. Laminates are available in around the hatch opening. Then, assemble the real requirement is that the deck construction be a wide selection of solid colors and wood-pat- hatch cover using the coaming as a mold. Dur- made of some sturdy and seaworthy material— tern finishes. Then too, there’s nothing stopping ing hatch cover assembly, food wrap can be used food wrap decks like on some open-design boats you from picking out something that looks like as masking to prevent the hatch cover from be- won’t do. When Tom Protheroe first made S/B a granite or butcher-block kitchen counter top! ing accidentally glued to the hatch coaming. To kits available back in the late 1960s, the deck The laminate used as the deck on the boat in the assure a proper look to the hatch cover, make was a sheet of 1/8 in. mahogany plywood. Both photo below is a piece of plastic laminate man- a pair of thwarts shaped to match the deck sides of the deck material needed waterproofing ufactured by Pionite and labeled as WX031 crown. These should be cut short so as to clear with resin or varnish. Hatch covers were made Suede Pearwood. To most everyone it looks like the hatch opening’s coaming rails and then be of the same plywood and fitted around wooden freshly sanded and unfinished teak. glued to the underside of the hatch cover. One side coamings. About 1970 when Vortex Model Notes re. the boat in the photo… thwart goes one-third aft the hatch cover front, Engineering took over the S/B, its 300-Series Preparation of the hull for support- and the other one-third further aft. boats featured a deck having a cuddy cabin and ing and installing the deck is as described in The (not so sensible) hatch cover on this . Made of fiberglass and sporting a few Model Yachting, Issue 147. boat is made of 1/16 in. Plexiglas having mahogany trim parts, this deck was a big hit in The deck stringer running down the been heat-formed to match the crown of the the market place. Along came the 700-Series center (full length) of the hull needs to be per- deck. An elongated ring of laminate is glued boats having what was called an “Ocean Racer” fectly straight and level. The stiff laminate will under the deck to reinforce the deck opening. deck. Of fiberglass also, and featuring a large then provide a good looking, smooth crown to Another elongated ring of laminate having clear Plexiglas hatch cover, this style of deck the deck. Funky things happen to a deck if you an inner “diameter” 3/8 in. smaller is glued in provided a modern look to the boat. try to bend it in more than one direction, as if place under it to serve as a flange on which the Available currently from our three manu- trying for a sheer as well as a crown. Plexiglas hatch cover is resting.

This is the Santa Barbara being built by Rich Matt. Note the builders cradle with the keel and rudder not mounted for convenience. Photo by Rich Matt. 42 Issue 149 Model Yachting Magazine © Fall Issue, 2007 On the Cover Contents of Issue 150

he IOM starting line cover photo for this issue is by Bruce Lopez. Per Bruce, “Hello! That photo was taken during the 2007 Ballot Results on page 59 2005 NCR in San Diego. It is right after the start of an AfleetT race. The #50 boat is a Firebrace design called a ‘Vapour” and is The Masthead...... 4 being sailed by George Pedrick. The #187 boat is a KF2 design and is President’s Letter...... 5 sailed by Doc Hoyos from Barbados. The #49 boat another Firebrace Model Yachting News...... 6 design “Ericca” and is sailed by Engelhard Federico.” AMYA Business Calendar...... 6 This issue of Model Yachting features the International One AMYA Hall of Fame Inductees...... 7 Metre (IOM) Class. Of , we have additional articles specific to Introduction to the IOM Class...... 10 Santa Barbara and 10 Rater, and all the articles have information ap- ISAF Class In the Beginning...... 11 plicable to all classes of model yachts. Jon Elmaleh Talks About Twang...... 16 This is the Winter Issue, and many of our members find them- Lester Gilbert’s Website...... 17 selves with time to read and build. IOM Strategy–When to Change Rigs...... 18 Purchasing Goods from Overseas...... 19 The American Model Yachting Association (AMYA) is a not-for- Fleet Building–The Story of the “Sweat Equity” IOM...... 20 profit organization dedicated to promoting the designing, building, IOM Tuning–Diagnosing Speed Problems–and Remidies...... 21 racing, and preservation of all model sailing yachts and is open to all people who are interested in these activities. Assembling a Santa Barbara OD, Part 2...... 22 In pursuit of these goals, the AMYA publishes Model Yachting maga- Let’s Race With The Rules, Rules Tutorial, Part 7...... 29 zine. Model Yachting is published four times per year in accordance with Thoughts on Scratch-Building a Vintage 10 Rater...... 33 the AMYA calendar. The staff of the magazine is composed primarily of Regatta Reports...... 38 AMYA member volunteers who devote countless hours of their time to Regatta Schedule...... 45 produce this publication. Editorial policy is ultimately determined by the Hal’s Boat Night Out...... 45 AMYA Board of Directors; however, the views expressed in this publica- Class News & Views...... 46 tion do not necessarily represent the views of the Executive Board, the East Coast 12 Meter...... 46 Board of Directors, or the majority of the AMYA membership. Victoria...... 46 Advertising in this publication is encouraged as an informative US One Meter...... 47 service to the AMYA members and as a means of helping defray the Marblehead...... 47 costs of printing. The AMYA does not take any responsibility for any advertiser’s products. CR 914...... 48 This issue of Model Yachting, except those parts as are specifically 36/600...... 49 stated, is Copyright © 2007 by the American Model Yachting Associa- SeaWind...... 50 tion, October 2007. All rights reserved. Star 45...... 50 Santa Barbara...... 52 Advertiser Index Open...... 53 V-32...... 53 American-RC.Com 50 Soling 50...... 54 Black Sails 47 Footy...... 54 Bob’s BoatYard 9 US12...... 55 Carr Sails 51 R/C ...... 56 Chesapeake Performance Models 49 Newport 12 Meter...... 56 Dennis Desprois’ Walrus Sails 51 AC Class...... 57 GRP Model Yachts 2 J...... 57 Hanna Boats 64 10 Rater...... 58 Hitec 15 Infinity 54...... 58 Isobar 10 Wheeler...... 58 Leading Edge Hobbies 5 2007 AMYA Ballot Voting Results...... 59 Midwest Model Yachting 28 Cartoon...... 59 Model Yacht Fittings 41 AMYA Stats & Facts...... 60 R/C Concepts 48 AMYA Yacht Registration Form...... 60 RMD Marine 46 AMYA Ship’s Store Order Form...... 61 RMG Sailwinch 17 AMYA Membership Application Form...... 62 Scale Sailing 55 Traplet Distribution USA Ltd 63 Issue 151 Final Deadline is Dec. 26, 2007 US 12 and Liberty 34 55 Victor Model Products 54 Featuring Windjammin Sails 19 The 75th Anniversary of the Marblehead Class

American Model Yachting Association © 2007 Issue 150 3 Assembling a Santa Barbara OD Part II by Rich Matt art I of this two-part article was pub- lished in Model Yachting, Issue 147, pp. 9–19. It provided a descrip- tionP of the wooden parts and other items that were needed when assembling an S/B “short kit.” It was intended that “Assembling a Santa Bar- bara Part II” would be included in the following issue of Model Yachting. However, mostly because of a limit on the number of pages avail- able, this Part II has been spread out across the next three issues of the magazine. Issue 148, pp. 30–32, described the layout and installation of the parts and equipment that are required down inside the hull. Issue 149, pg.. 42, described how to install a deck made of plastic laminate, rather than doing it the easy way by ordering a molded fiberglass deck from Hartman R/C Fibreglass or Ludwig Mfg.. This issue (#150) concludes Part II by describing one method of putting the sail rig together. By “short kit,” it is meant that a manufac- Rich Matt’s new Santa Barbara OD. All article photos by Rich Matt. turer makes available only the fiberglass hull, keel, and rudder. The home builder finishes ers have taken over where the late Bob Irwin of supporting and controlling the mast is very putting it all together. Of the three current AJ Fisher and the late Don Prough of ProBar much like that used on full-scale people boats. S/B suppliers, Hartman provides the short kit Design left off. It is interesting that the rigging plan of the only. He does not offer hardware or sail rig A search of the Links shown at the S/B has gone unchanged since Tom Protheroe items. Ludwig offers the option of providing AMYA website (www.ModelYacht.org) in- first produced the boat back in the late 1960s. a short kit or providing the boat in any state dicates numerous sources of hardware. More of completion the buyer prefers. This includes than two-dozen suppliers are listed. It is a bit Suggested Parts List the sail rig. Ludwig has available all the spars of a pleasant surprise that there are that many and hardware needed. He can put it together, out there involved in offering model boat hard- or you can order the parts and put it together ware for sale. With all the available options, it yourself. Midlife Boats, which provides the is not easy for anyone to say whose hardware boat assembled and does not offer a short is best and whose hardware is best for use on kit, will also leave assembling the sail rig as a a particular class of boat. Choice of deck and buyer’s option. rig hardware is not a factor with the S/B Class Incidentally, as an alternative to a brand Measurement Specifications. This article de- new boat, you could revive an older one. There scribes using some of the products provided are hundreds of twenty- and thirty-year-old S/ by Midwest Model Yachting, LLC; by Ludwig Bs out there. New sails and updated hardware Mfg; and by the local fishing tackle shop and are usually all that are needed to make even the local hobby shop. From Ludwig Mfg: oldest S/B a regatta winner. A boat larger than the one-meter classes, (1) Mast: 72” black-anodized The supply chain for sail rig and deck like the S/B OD, uses a mast long enough to aluminum (comes teardrop shaped hardware has grown and evolved over the years. require upper shrouds, lower shrouds, spread- with sail groove). The legendary AJ Fisher Co., now gone, made ers, and a jumper strut. These rigging items (1) Main : 24” matching the brass hardware fittings that were popular on keep the tall mast straight. Most model yacht mast section. all classes of boats from vane-sailing days until sails are intended to be used with a straight, (1) , Mast Base, and Vang the 1990s. During the seventies and eighties, rather than “bendy,” mast. A mast that is kept Assembly. now gone also, ProBar Design provided com- from bending will also allow a tight backstay (1) Boom End Fitting. plete one-stop shopping for top-notch stain- that in turn allows a tight jib . For fast (1) Jumper Fitting. less steel (SS) hardware fittings, carbon-fiber sailing to weather, that tight forestay keeps the (1) Masthead Fitting: polished spars, swing-arm and everything else right shape in the jib, and it also provides the aluminum. (except sails) that was needed as R/C tension needed for a properly working jib top- (1) Mast Step Deck Plate: polished hardware. Nowadays, a number of new suppli- ping lift. The rigging plan and hardware for aluminum 22 Issue 150 Model Yachting Magazine © Winter Issue, 2007 (Photo in lower left column.) Using the holes provided in the fore and From the local fishing tackle shop: aft ends of the Ludwig Mfg. polished alumi- (1) Pack of four, Size 4 Ball Bearing num Mast Step Plate, screw it down on the Swivel with Interlock Snap by Bass deck centerline so that the plate’s center hole Pro Shops. (For use as jib swivel is 29” aft the bow. The three mast position- clasps and securing sheets to booms). ing holes will then match the 3/4” spacing of (1) Spool of 30 lb. test, braided the jib- screw eyes. To maintain the spac- Dacron to use as sail grommet tie-offs. ing and make reattaching turnbuckles (1) Spool of 50-60 lb. test braided easy when moving the rig fore or aft, install Dacron to use as sheets. the KDH #268 Stay Racks so that the center (1) Spool of 30 lb. test braided SS screw mounting holes are 30-1/2” aft the bow leader cable, plastic coated (For use as and 3/8” inboard the gunwales. Rather than luff to mast jackline).. this 30-1/2” measurement being made in refer- From Midwest Model Yachting LLC: (1) Pack of Single Barrel Sleeves ence to the deck centerline, it is made by hook- (1) #188, Pack of ten, KDH 11.5 x 6 (black) (For use as attachment of ing the measuring tape over the bow and going mm Screw eyes with Washers. jackline to mast)... back on an angle to the gunwale. Doing it this (1) #200, Pack of eight, SAILSetc way, rather than drawing lines at right angles Bowsies. The Deck Hardware to the deck centerline, is quick and accurate. (1) #226, Pack of ten, #4 x 3/8” SS Starting at the bow, install three KDH Note: In order for the hook of the KDH #260 Pan Screws. #188 Screw Eyes on the deck centerline, one Turnbuckle to fit into the holes on the KDH (2) #260, Pack of two, KDH EZ at 11-1/4” aft the bow, one at 12, and another #268 Stay Rack, it will be necessary to file or Hook Single Turnbuckle at 13-3/4 inches.. These three screw eyes will drill the holes a bit larger. (1) #268, Pack of two, KDH Stay serve as the jib-tack deck fittings. A rack about Two, 3/32” holes drilled in the deck area, Rack 80 mm (shroud chain plates) 3” long, and having a sequence of holes 1/4” two inches to port and two inches aft of the (1) #285, Pack of four, KDH apart, is another way to do it. Use a drill bit mast step, will provide exits for the adjustable (2) #282, Pack of four, KDH Tang as large as the screw eye’s thread to make the dead-ends of the jib and main sheets. Install (eight #2 x 1/4” SS screws incl.) hole in the fiberglass deck so as to avoid having two KDH #283 Cleats, one for each sheet, to (1) #283, Pack of four, KDH Cleat the screw cause the deck material to chip. Stop either side of these holes. Depending on the (eight #2 x 1/4” SS screws incl.) drilling just short of piercing the deck, and material used as decking, it might be neces- then use a smaller drill to prepare the wooden sary to install wooden back-up for the screws. back-up, below it, for the screw’s thread. On Sheltered in this area, near and aft the mast, windy days, you will attach your jib tack swiv- there will be little chance of the running sheets el to the forward eye. The middle eye is for av- snagging on one of these cleats, yet the cleats erage wind conditions. And, on days when the will be easy to reach for adjustment between winds are light, the aft eye is best. The deck, races. mast-step plate and the chain plates will also Installation of a backstay attachment de- have three available positions, three-quarters vice completes the deck hardware installation. of an inch apart, for moving the mast fore or By far the most popular method is a screw eye From the local hobby dealer or mail-order aft without the need to readjust the length of installed on the deck centerline 1/4” in from the hobby dealer: the “quick-disconnect,” shroud turnbuckles. transom. However, many skippers claim that (1) Pack of two, 32” fiberglass arrow Install jib sheet and mainsheet exit guides easing the backstay a little when going down- shafts labeled “Fiberglass Pushrod to provide minimum friction pass-through in wind helps allow the jib to go wing-on-wing System PRDS-5400” by Dave Brown the deck for sheets that come and go at differ- more readily. Some S/Bs have a servo-operated Products, Inc. (For use as Jib Club) ent angles. What works well is one KDH #285 adjustable backstay. The servo is mounted on (1) Pack of three, 12” x 1/8” outside Fairlead mounted on deck and another, back- the radio board. A line running aft from the diameter (OD) SS Tubing by K&S to-back, on the underside of the deck. Using a servo arm is led up through a hole in the deck Engineering (For use as Spreaders). drill bit that matches the fairlead’s base, make where the backstay is then connected. Or, as on (1) One 12” length of 3/32” SS Rod a hole through the centerline of the deck, 25” this boat, the backstay is adjusted automati- by K&S Engineering. (For use as aft of the bow, for the jib-sheet exit. The main- cally. The automatic backstay adjuster was de- Bar). sheet fairlead goes 48” aft the bow. scribed on page 31 of Model Yachting, Issue 148. A screw eye is installed on the sail winch swinging arm about one-half inch offset the arm’s pivot point. A line tied off to this screw eye is led aft through nylon tubing, up through one corner of the deck near the transom, and then tied off to a screw eye mounted in the op- posite corner of the transom. Enough slack is left in the line so that it forms a bridle about six inches in height. With the backstay clipped to the bridle and when the swinging arm goes American Model Yachting Association © 2007 Issue 150 23 forward to ease the sheets, the backstay is club… Sure, this device might help a boat to If using the KDH #188 screw eyes, use a #50 eased. As the arm swings aft when trimming go wing-and-wing more readily, but they also drill to make a hole at that 2-1/2” mark. When the sheets, the backstay is drawn tight. Now is do wonders to latch on to the rigging wire and drilling the hole, stop short of going all the a good time to finish leading the jib and main spin out any boat that comes near. The result- way through the shaft. Then install a screw eye sheets from the winch arm. If you are starting ing two-boat tangle usually results in both for the jib-tack swivel fitting. Avoid the risk of at the running end of the jib sheet, first fit it boats being dead last or logging DNFs. Per- breaking off the screw eye by creating a thread out with a fishing tackle snap clasp. A touch haps it is because of this concern that only a for it—by alternating a half-turn in with a of cyanoacrylate adhesive (CA) will make the few S/Bs are seen having a forward-extending quarter-turn back out. knot permanent. Pass the sheet down through jib counterbalance. (Please excuse the rant. As From the aft end of the shaft, insert the the deck fairlead and down through the port a repeat victim of boom-claw attacks in other back-up plug intended for the jib sheet so that half of the double turning block mounted on classes, the time, mood, and place were right for its center is located 15” aft the forward end of the deck support beam, and then lead it aft to it. — RM) the jib boom. To install the jib swivel, first pry the winch arm. Pass it up through the hole 4” The Jib Boom open a screw eye enough so as to insert the jib out on the arm, then forward and up through Typical jib boom hardware consists of: 1) swivel’s split-ring, squeeze it back closed, then the hole in the deck near the cleat, and tie it something at the forward tip for securing the drill the hole and thread in the screw eye. Note: off to the cleat. As with the jib sheet, a fish- jib luff wire, 2) a free-swiveling jib-tack fitting All measurements regarding the placement of ing leader snap clasp needs to be tied to the to connect the jib boom to the jib-tack deck fit- sheet exit guides and sheet attachment points running end of the main sheet. Don’t forget ting, 3) a screw eye for attaching the jib sheet, on the booms are with the assumption you are the dab of CA on the knot. Once fitted out 4) a device of some kind for adjusting the jib using a swing-arm sail control and will be us- with this snap clasp, the mainsheet runs down , and 5) a screw eye on the aft end of ing differently spaced holes on the swing-arm through its fairlead and forward through the the boom to connect the jib . to adjust for sheet travel lengths. Don’t forget; long length of tubing installed through the being double-ended, the sheet will be readily radio board support beams. From there it goes adjusted at a cleat on deck. This allows the use to the starboard sheave of the double block, of a snap clasp tied at the running end of the aft to the winch arm, up the hole 5-1/2” out on sheet—no need for a jib sheet bowsie or ad- the arm, back forward again, then up through juster on the boom. the deck exit hole, and to its cleat. The jibstay wire, which is embedded in the jib luff, will pass through the screw eye The Spars installed on the forward end of the jib boom. S/B OD Class Rules allow masts and The luff wire will then be looped through booms to be made of all popular and available the screw eye and swaged snug with a crimp materials: wood, fiberglass (FG), aluminum, or The hobby shop–available Dave Brown sleeve. Insert this screw-eye equipped plastic carbon filament (CF). A practical mast choice Products FG arrow-shaft pushrods come two tip into the boom so that the screw eye is verti- in terms of looks, usefulness, cost, and conve- to a package. These stiff, sturdy, and light- cal and in line with the jib-tack swivel screw nience is the aluminum, airfoil-section shaped weight FG shafts are ideal as jib booms. Also in eye. A small touch of CA will secure the tip in mast like the one available from Ludwig Mfg. the package are six, plastic, arrow-shaft “tips..” the end of the boom. Drill a 1/16” hole clear Made of T-6 6061 aluminum, it is adequately Two of the tips, having holes pre-drilled in through, side-to-side, about a half-inch back stiff. A 72” length weighs a mere 4.6 ounces. their pointy ends and fitted with screw eyes, from the very tip of the boom so as to provide And, the black anodized coating looks good. are used as the boom’s forward- and aft-end for a loop of line that will serve as the jib-tack Boom material is also a matter of per- plugs. Two of the other plugs, once the flared . sonal preference. A 1/4” diameter fiberglass pointy-end is cut away, are used inside the shaft Next, make a circle of fishing line run- arrow shaft makes for a good jib boom. How- as back-up blocks for the screw eyes that hold ning through the eyelet in the jib tack and ever, something stiffer is needed for the much the jib-tack swivel fitting and the screw eye through the hole in the jib boom directly be- longer main boom. The typical S/B fleet will to which the jib sheet attaches. Insert one of low. This loop should be large enough to allow provide examples of all sorts of different the back-up plugs inside the shaft so that its the foot of the sail to be clear of the boom. A booms. A boom should be sturdy, stiff, and center is about 2-1/2” in from the forward end. one-inch difference between eyelet and boom light in weight. An S/B jib boom is about 18” should work. Using a toothpick as an applica- in length, and the main boom, 24” in length. tor, apply CA to the knot. Many classes, the S/B included, disallow Insert the other plastic arrow tip into the use of curved or doglegged booms even the aft end of the boom so that the screw eye though no racing advantage is apparent. A is vertical, and then secure it with a touch bent jib boom that meets the curve of the sail’s of CA. The jib boom will appear to be a few foot might improve the overall appearance of inches longer than needed. This aft extension the boat. Perhaps what should be specifically will provide clearance between jib leech and disallowed on booms are any cleats or sharp- the line used as the jib topping lift. The last edged hardware that could reach out and step in building a jib boom is to provide an snag the rigging of a competing boat when adjustable jib clew outhaul. What works well in close-quarters, downwind mark roundings. are four, 1/32” holes drilled vertically through The same goes for a slug-shaped wad of lead the boom, starting just forward (clear) of the that extends on a rod way forward of the jib topping lift’s screw eye and going forward in a 24 Issue 150 Model Yachting Magazine © Winter Issue, 2007 row about 1/8” apart. A loop of line goes from split ring. Fit the other end of the line with the jib leech grommet around the bottom of a bowsie by first passing the line through two the boom and back up to the grommet. From bowsie holes; lead it through the top end of the grommet, where the knot is held fast with a the other clasp and then back up to be knotted drop of CA, the line is then led down through off at the bowsie’s third hole. This clasp will the first of the four holes. The line is then fed be hooked on to the screw eye in the aft end of up the next hole, down the next hole, up the the jib boom. fourth hole and is then tucked under one or two of the new loops made by the hole-to- The Main Boom hole weave. The outhaul then has an adjustable Main boom hardware consists of: 1) the bowsie built in to the boom. gooseneck for attaching boom to mast, 2) a boom-vang fitting about 6” aft, 3) a tang 17- 1/2” aft for attaching the main sheet, and 4) a boom end fitting that provides an adjustable A KDH #282 Tang having its larger hole outhaul arrangement for the mainsail clew. opening bent down ninety degrees and then The gooseneck/boom-vang assembly, now screwed to the underside of the boom about available from Ludwig Mfg., is very impres- 17-1/2” aft the mast will serve as the attach- sive. S/B and other fellow “big-boat” sailors ment for the mainsheet clasp. No device for have been waiting and hoping for just such a adjusting the length of the mainsheet will be thing. Made of a reinforced hard plastic and needed on the boom. Like the jib sheet, the SS parts, it is sturdy, lightweight, and nicely mainsheet is double-ended and tied off to a crafted. The large sized ball-socket swivel cleat on deck, making any adjustment quick joints are surprisingly friction free and are and convenient. unlikely to disconnect even in the wildest sail- Slip on a Ludwig Mfg. Main Boom End ing conditions. Important to many sailors is Fitting and secure it with a KDH Screw Eye. that the entire assembly is salt-water useable. The screw eye, like the other boom hardware, The gooseneck portion consists of a setscrew- goes underneath the boom. equipped collar that is a perfect fit around the About an inch aft of the mainsheet tang, Ludwig mast, a boom end fitting that provides install a KDH #283 Cleat to the underside of a mainsail tack attachment point, and a ball- the boom. This cleat will provide adjustment Finish off the jib by fitting out a fishing socket pivot connecting the two. Another set- and tie-down for the mainsail outhaul. Like swivel clasp that is needed for attaching the screw-equipped collar, perfectly shaped to fit the jib outhaul, the most popular mainsail jibstay to the mast. There will be about 5-1/2” the main boom, provides a connection to the outhaul is a loop of line through the clew from the head of the jib up to the jibstay tang . The boom vang fitting serves also grommet and around the boom. The loop is on the mast. Overall, from screw-eye tip of the as a mast base, and it has a pin to fit the deck- usually large enough to keep the sail foot just jib club to the jibstay fitting on the mast, it mounted mast-step plate. The vang itself, the making contact with the top of the boom. will be 55 inches. Half of a 12” length of line six-inch-long assembly that connects the mast A long tail of the knot will be led from the should be passed through the split ring end to the boom, is well designed and well crafted. grommet and aft on an angle to a hole in the of a fishing swivel and knotted. One of the 6” A turning wheel about 3/4” in diameter, locked boom end fitting. From the boom end fitting, tails is passed through two holes of a bowsie, to a threaded rod, provides a convenient means the line is then led forward through the screw through an eye swaged in the wire jibstay, then of extending or reducing the length of the eye and then to the cleat. This simple outhaul back through the bowsie’s third hole and knot- vang. Round, knurled nuts on the threaded rod set-up will provide complete adjustment con- ted. The other 6” tail goes from swivel’s ring lock any adjustment in place. Being a “stiff ” trol for the mainsail foot camber. The knot in down through two holes of a bowsie, through vang, it will not only prevent the main boom the line needs to be kept stationary up inside the jib-head grommet and back up to the from rising, it will also prevent the weight of the grommet; use CA to keep it there. bowsie and knotted. The bowsie knots should the boom or pull of the sheet from pulling be located so as to allow at least one inch of down and causing the leech of the main to be The Mast adjustment in either direction. These bowsies affected. A trip to the sailing site will show that will make it easy to adjust mast rake and jib One modification you might consider there are very few boats having the exact same luff tension. (and, Ludwig Mfg. is also considering) is to ideas about which mast hardware makes the Using a 55” length of lightweight line, avoid scratches on the mast step plate by re- ideal rig. The basics are all the same. The rig two small fishing tackle clasps, and a bowsie, placing the 1/8” x 1/2” metal roll-pin in the needs to be sturdy, light in weight, aerodynam- prepare a jib topping lift. An adjustable top- bottom of the vang fitting with a 1/8” x 1/2” ically efficient, and straight in all wind condi- ping lift is needed to give a proper shape to plastic or even a wood dowel. When the time tions. Starting at the top and working down the jib leech when sailing to weather. With- comes for final assembly of the rig, plan on us- towards the base of the mast, here’s a descrip- out a topping lift, the vang effect of a taut ing epoxy to set the vang fitting securely in the tion of one way to put it together. jib forestay would close the jib leech and in- base of the mast. Or, use a small screw through The Masthead Fitting available from terfere with the important “slot” between jib the fitting and into the mast to keep it in place. Ludwig Mfg. is a flat aluminum T-shape that and main. Tie a clasp to one end of the line. Likewise, a screw through the boom and into is intended to slip into a notch cut 3/8” down This gets hooked into the jibstay upper swivel’s the boom end fitting will be needed. into the top of the mast. A hacksaw and a American Model Yachting Association © 2007 Issue 150 25 small, narrow, flat file are needed for a neat an Exacto knife with a sharp and “pointy” At the thickest part of the mast’s cross installation. A hole for the jumper (diamond) #11 blade. Notches, filed 1/8” deep and 1” section and 26-1/2” up from the base drill a rigging wire is provided on the forward end of long, in the edge of a plastic ruler can make 3/32” hole clear through the mast for a 3/32” the fitting. A hole in the long, aft end of the a handy template for the cuts. On a 12-inch x 2-1/2” spreader bar. Install a tang to each fitting accommodates the backstay. The hole ruler, center a template notch at 3 inches and side of the mast. The spreader bar will pass just aft the mast is there for the main . another at 9 inches.. Matching one notch on through the tang’s center hole. The lower However, instead of the traditional line tying the template with one previously cut in the shroud will be attached to the already-large off the top of the sail to the immoveable mast- sail provides accurate placement for the next hole in the angled-away portion of each tang. head, you might want to try a currently popu- notch. Covering the backside of the ruler Each tang’s remaining upper hole is used for lar way of securing it. This new method allows with blue masking tape helps keep the ruler/ the screw that fastens the tang to the mast. the main’s headboard to readily swing fully template from sliding out of position when Note: Drill that hole for the tang mounting from side to side, rather than hold it nearly held down on slick sail cloth. screw a little bit towards the forward edge of rigid fore and aft. A 1” section of brass tube is Now would be a good time to drill a the mast. Visualize lining up the tang with its lashed and glued to the mast’s sail groove and small hole about 2” down from the top of the top cocked a little forward so as to line up with a Z–shaped, 1/16” wire is loosely fitted into mast and into the “back wall” of the groove. the jumper wire and its bottom so as to line up the tube. The one leg of the Z that fits into the This hole will serve to anchor the top end of with the lower shroud that will attach down on tube is about 1” long. The middle of the other the mainsail jackstay. deck about 2” aft of the mast base. A touch of leg is bent into a V, with 1/2” legs to complete CA where the spreader bar contacts the tangs the Z-shape. The halyard now consists of a will keep it from sliding in and out. Prepare small loop of line from headboard to center of the slip-on/slip-off spreaders by cutting the the V. The headboard is now free to swing in SS 3/32” inside diameter tubing into 5-1/2” line with the entire sail. No longer will there lengths. Fold a pair of 6” long pieces of rig- be a strange twist to the upper portion of the ging wire in half. Insert one folded-over wire mainsail when sheets are eased. into one end of each spreader tube so that only an eye about 1/8” in diameter extends. The up- per shroud will pass through this eye when the mast is rigged on deck. Long, thin cotter pins could be used instead of the folded-over wire.

Twelve inches down on each side of the Rigging Wire mast install a KDH #282 Tang for the upper Black, plastic-coated, multi-strand, 45 shrouds (sidestays). Be careful to select the lb.-test fishing leader will make good rigging proper sized drill bit when making the holes wire. In addition to leader wire, fishing tackle for the SS self-tapping screws. It is a good idea stores also have available different sizes of to use a tang for attaching the shrouds on a swage sleeves, which are used to pinch together The groove built into the aft edge of boat that is large and heavy like an S/B. On and hold tight any formed tie-off eye loops. the mast is there to accommodate a boltrope- a smaller, lighter boat, most shrouds are at- These sleeves come in different sizes. It turns equipped mainsail. Boltrope mains, in spite tached to the mast by knotting the wire and out that different manufacturers use different of discussion of their aerodynamic superior- passing it through a drilled hole or by looping methods of describing sizes. Pick out sleeves ity when sailing upwind, are not as popular and swaging the wire around a screw. Using that are no bigger than necessary to accomo- as the other method of attaching the main- tangs presents fewer sharp cutting edges to the date two sections of 45 lb.-test wire. In your sail to mast. This method uses sleeves on the rigging wire. quest to have neat and tidy eye terminals, you mast, sleeve-matching notches cut in the sail Install another tang on the forward side of might get away with using a smaller size sleeve luff, and a wire jackstay passing through the the mast so that it’s upper holding screw is no if you first gently “oval it” a tad with pliers in sail luff and through the sleeves. The sleeves higher than 53-1/2” up from the mast base. order to insert both wire parts. When swaging and notches should be exactly six inches This tang will be the jibstay attachment. an eye in the end of a wire use the smooth, not- apart. In order to secure the sleeves to the If you are planning on using the newly serrated, portion of long-nosed pliers to first mast, use a toothpick to transfer small drops available CF jumper fitting, wait to install it squash the sleeve flat. Then with small wire of CA glue from the bottle. Once the CA has until the rigging wires are being fitted. cutters, gently put two dents in the flattened cured, use a toothpick, again, to spread a tiny sleeves. These dents are to be parallel with the drop of 5-minute epoxy as a second coating flat, not at right angles to the flat. and fillet to both sides of the sleeves. Once the With the mast on the workbench, first sleeves are secured in the grove, it is a good install the jumper wires. Cut off a section of idea to verify the spacing measurements with wire 100” long. At 50” pre-bend it 180-de- the mainsail luff before cutting the notches. grees. Insert the wire right up to the bend in Secure the headboard in position; line up the to the forward hole in the masthead fitting. luff with the aft side of the mast; and using Install a swage sleeve over the two wires and a fine-point marker, make dots on the luff slide it up tight against the masthead fitting. where the centers of the notches need to be. Do not crimp this sleeve. It will serve as a slid- For neatly cutting notches in a sail luff, use ing device to adjust mast bend. It will elimi- 26 Issue 150 Model Yachting Magazine © Winter Issue, 2007 and crimp it. Tie needed on the forward edge of the mast. This one end of a 16” screw will be only about 1/8” up from the bot- length of line to tom of the aluminum mast where it will then this loop in the penetrate and secure the vang fitting. lower end of the Tighten the main downhaul to put some backstay. Run tension on the main luff and tie it off to the this line through cleat. Use the vang adjustment wheel to po- two adjacent sition the end of the main boom at a proper holes of a bowsie, height. Slight contact of the mainsail foot through the top with the top of the boom is okay. As was done of a snap clasp, with fitting out the jib outhaul, fit out the and then loop it mainsail outhaul. Make a loop of line going back to the re- from the clew grommet and under the boom. nate the need for clumsy-looking telescoping maining hole in the bowsie. The final position Glue the knot into the grommet and run the jumper struts or jumper turnbuckles installed of the stopper knot and the ultimate length of line’s tail aft through the Ludwig Mfg. Boom at the spreaders. this line will be readily determined later once End Fitting. Pass the line forward through Place the Ludwig Mfg. Jumper Fitting on the boat is rigged. the screw eye under the boom, holding the the mast so that it is just touching the top of end fitting in place, and tie it off to the cleat the jibstay tang. Being a perfect wraparound Bending the Sails mounted under the boom. fit, the jumper fitting in place nicely. Pass With the jib assembly set aside and with the two wires down through the tips of the the mast lying across a tabletop, it’s time to at- Rigging the Mast on the Hull jumper fitting. Slip a swage sleeve on to each tach the main luff to the mast with a jackstay. Now comes the tricky part: fitting the wire. Back out halfway the screws holding Run one end of a 74” length of plastic-coated shrouds to the turnbuckles so that they are the spreader tangs. With just enough tension rigging wire through the hole drilled in the the correct length. Figure out a way to solidly to not cause bend in the mast, wrap the wires mast groove wall 2” down from the masthead support the mast in position while you mea- 180-degrees around the loosened screw and fitting. Push the wire up through the top of sure, cut, and swage the shrouds. Having the under the tang. When satisfied that both wires the mast; put a tight knot in the wire; then boat in a cradle, with the keel attached for sta- have equal tension and that no mast bend is pull the wire back down snug against the knot. bility, and adjusting the height of the cradle taking place, then crimp the swages, cut away Feed the wire down through the uppermost so that the masthead fitting can be taped to the excess wire, and tighten the screws. sleeve glued to the luff groove. From the first ceiling is one method. Another method—even In order to secure the CF jumper fitting sleeve weave the wire down into the uppermost though it makes for awkward working condi- in position, make sure it is snug against the notch in mainsail luff so that it comes out the top of the jibstay tang and apply some CA sail at the next notch. Weave the jackstay wire glue around where it meets the mast. Wraps of inside the luff from notch through sleeve for thread around the wires above and below the the full length of the mast. The jackstay is not fitting, and then coated with CA, will solidify to be inserted inside the luff at either the top the jumper. or bottom few inches of the sail. Cut two, 32” lengths of leader wire to Temporarily remove the cleat previously use as the lower shrouds. Form and swage installed 2” up from the base of the mast. Slide a 1/4” loop at one end of one wire after first the gooseneck assembly up from the bottom passing it through the big, lower hole in a of the mast, and position it so the top of the spreader tang. Repeat with the other wire and main boom will be about 1/2” below the main- other tang. For now, let the lower ends of the sail foot. Reinstall the cleat, but do not tighten shrouds go unfinished. the two screws. Pass the jackstay wire from the Cut two, 62” lengths of leader wire to use last sleeve, not back into the luff, but into the as the upper shrouds. Form and swage a 1/4” mast groove. Run the wire behind the goose- loop at one end of one wire after first passing it neck collar, back out from the groove, and then through one of the tangs fitted 12” down from pass it under the loosened cleat. Draw the jack- the masthead. Do the same with the other 62” stay snug and secure it by fully tightening the wire and the other tang. As with the shrouds, screws. Cut away excess jackstay wire leaving a let the lower ends go unfinished for now. 1/4” of the wire extending out forward from Cut an 80” length of leader wire to use under the cleat. This cleat will also serve as the as the backstay. (If instead of a screw eye on tie-off for the mainsail downhaul. The cleat your transom you have a bridle, make your will allow the downhaul to be adjusted so as backstay leader wire 74” long. This presumes a to eliminate puckers in the mainsail luff when 6” bridle.) Attach one end to the hole in the aft sailing, and it will allow release of the down- end of the masthead crane fitting by looping haul when the boat is not in use so as to avoid it through and swaging it. Form a 1/4” loop permanently stretching the sailcloth. in the free end of this wire, 72” down from the In order to keep the mast-base vang fit- masthead (66” for use with a bridle), sleeve it, ting permanently fixed in place, a screw is American Model Yachting Association © 2007 Issue 150 27 tions—consider parking the hull on the floor buckles will need adjustment, and this will foreside of the mast. When all is checked in the middle of a door opening and using provide plenty of take-up thread to be held out and ready, use pliers to put 90-degree tape to hold the top of the mast in position. in reserve. Another step in preparation for bends in the wires, pass each wire through The foot of the mast should be stepped into attaching the shrouds to the turnbuckles is its turnbuckle top, bend it up, bring down the center hole of the deck-mounted mast to ready the crimping sleeves on the wires the sleeve, and crimp it. When at the pond, step plate. Using a carpenter’s level abeam the before putting any bends in the wires. Slip a quick-disconnect turnbuckles on equal- hatch opening, center-up the bubble. Use the sleeve on each shroud wire, run it a foot up length shrouds make an easy matter of set- level alongside the mast so as to have it per- out of the way, and hold it there with a fold ting up the boat, knowing that side-to-side fectly vertical, side-to-side. Use a tape measure of masking tape. mast alignment is correct. and the following measurements to set the Place a turnbuckle in the center hole Install spreader tubes on the spreader mast with a few inches of aft rake: Assuming of each chain plate; these will be for the up- bar. Lead the upper shrouds down through the the crown of the deck has a 5/8” rise from level per shrouds. Place the turnbuckles for the wire eyes on the ends of the spreader tubes, of the gunwales, it will be 79” from tip of lower shrouds into holes 3/4” further aft. then down to their turnbuckles. Use the same bow to top of mast and 80-1/2” from top of Using a tape measure from chain plate to techniques as with the lower shrouds for mea- mast to a screw eye in the transom. Use books, the spreader tang to check that the mast is suring and attaching the upper shrouds to saved back issues of Model Yachting, and perfectly vertical. Trial fit the lower shrouds their turnbuckle tops. padding wedged around and under the hull to to the tops of their turnbuckles by using The mast will now be self-supporting. Do keep it in place. folds of masking tape on the wires as mark- away with that masking tape on the ceiling. Attach the jib-tack swivel clasp to the ers. Compare the marker tapes, one to the Turn on the radio, put on the hatch cover, and center jib-tack deck screw eye. Set the stopper other, by bringing the wires together at the go sailing. knots in the jibstay and jib luff bowsies so that the bowsies are in mid-range of their adjust- ment ability. The distance from jibstay tang down to the center jib tack screw eye should be 56 inches. Attach the backstay snap to the backstay fitting on the stern or to the bridle if you have one. To finish the backstay, posi- tion the bowsie so that when you draw the backstay bowsie taut, you have a 3” range of adjustment in either direction and set the stopper knot. Now, tighten the backstay so that it is taut. The mast will now be held firm, fore and aft. Preset the four KDH #260 Turnbuck- les to the same length. Thread the turn- buckle top so that it is one-third the way inside the turnbuckle barrel. Tighten the locking nut. After some sailing, the rigging wire will stretch a bit. In time, the turn-

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Masts, Booms, Fittings, and Supplies In Stock SAILSetc - KDH - Cap Maquettes Full catalog and online ordering at www.midwestmodelyachting.com 50 Page Catalog $6.00 Also offering Blackmagick sails, RMG winches, ballasts, sailmaking supplies, and more e-mail: [email protected] P.O. Box 605 Plainfield, IN 46168-9998 Phone/Fax: (317) 203-3121 Visa, Mastercard & Discover 28 Issue 150 Model Yachting Magazine © Winter Issue, 2007