GUIDE TO THE TERRITORY
On a discovery of the most beautiful sites of the Pale di San Martino, Primiero and Vanoi
sanmartino.com
GUIDE TO THE TERRITORY
On a discovery of the most beautiful sites of the Pale di San Martino, Primiero and Vanoi
sanmartino.com CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION...... 5
ENVIRONMENT AND NATURE Welcome!...... 6 The Dolomites, a World Heritage site...... 7 Green Way Primiero, a lifestyle...... 8 Pale di San Martino...... 11 Lagorai...... 12 Vette Feltrine...... 13 The Nature Park...... 15 The Park: find out more...... 16 Trials in the Park...... 17 Ecomuseo del Vanoi...... 18
SPORT Always active...... 21 On the way...... 22 High mountain huts...... 23 Dolomiti Palaronda Trek...... 24 Soft or Hard Trek?...... 25 Bike...... 27 Bike Arena...... 29 Way up high...... 30 Ski lifts...... 31 The “Aquile”...... 32 Activities with children...... 34 Orienteering...... 35 Snowboard and freestyle...... 37 Downhill skiing...... 38 Freeride...... 40 One-of-a-kind ski slopes...... 42 Skiing by night...... 43 Nordic skiing...... 44 Skiing school...... 45 More than just skiing...... 46 Snowshoeing in the wood...... 47
4 VALLEYS YOU SHOULDN’T MISS Val Venegia...... 50 Val Canali...... 51 Val Noana...... 52 Valsorda...... 53
2 sanmartino.com TOWNS San Martino di Castrozza...... 57 Passo Rolle ...... 58 Primiero: an exceptional town sextet...... 59 Fiera di Primiero...... 60 The other towns of Primiero...... 61 The Vanoi valley...... 62 Sagron Mis...... 63
SIGHTSEEING ATTRACTIONS The late gothic heart...... 65 Treasures of art...... 66 Mezzano, a romantic town...... 67 The sites of Ecomuseum...... 68 Since pre-historic times...... 69 Artistic handcrafts...... 71
HISTORY A hint of history...... 73 The history of San Martino...... 74 Notable mountaineers on the Pale...... 76
GASTRONOMY Mouth-watering treats...... 79 A tour of the dairy huts...... 81 Excellence...... 82
THE SURROUNDINGS Mart & Muse...... 85 Tour of the Dolomites...... 87 ArteSella and Valsugana Lakes...... 89 Venice “the beautiful”...... 91 Gems in Veneto...... 92
USEFUL INFORMATION Useful phone numbers...... 94 Services...... 95
CREDITS...... 96
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The guide you are holding in your hand is a useful hand- book that the Tourist Agency San Martino di Castrozza, Pas- so Rolle, Primiero and Vanoi has specifically conceived for you. It is not meant to be exhaustive, so it will allow you to enjoy the thrill of discovering the territory for yourself, while offering some good ideas and tips on how to explore what interests you most. Its ambition is to become your travelling companion, al- ways tucked away inside your backpacks, your bags or on the dashboard of your car, ready for you to read it. Its dream is also to return home with you and still give you the thrills you experienced while on vacation. Finally, its hope is to be in- troduced to your friends and to become a favourite “pock- et” guide for them, too. Whenever you leaf through its pag- es, remember that it was written with you in mind, you who have chosen valleys of Primiero and Vanoi as your precious holiday destination: so whenever you open it, even when at home, it will remind you of a world rich in emotions. Enjoy your reading! ENVIRONMENT AND NATURE
WELCOME!
San Martino di Castrozza, tradition of respect and pro- Passo Rolle, Primiero, Vanoi tection of ecosystems in the and Sagron Mis are locat- interest of the local popula- ed in the heart of the Dolo- tion, which in the past en- mites, a World Heritage Site, gaged primarily in rural, for- at the foot of the Pale di San estry and mining activities. Martino massif. We are in These resorts are also Eastern Trentino, bordering committed to a careful en- valleys of Fiemme and Fassa vironmental policy called and within a short distance Green Way Primiero. San from Veneto. With its strong Martino Tourist Guide is the tourist vocation, this territo- app for iPhone and android ry offers the ideal venue for mobile devices, dedicated to a tailored holiday: altitudes the territory and designed range from 650 metres at for techies. It recognises your valley floor up to the 1450 position and locates the metres of San Martino di closest attractions, providing Castrozza and 2000 of Pas- suggestions and advice on so Rolle. The natural envi- locations, sports, events and ronment is preserved by the places where to eat or stay Nature Park Paneveggio - overnight, with the possibility Pale di San Martino, with its of booking online: download headquarters in the magnifi- it, we’re sure you will find it cent Val Canali; it continues a very useful!
6 sanmartino.com THE DOLOMITES, A WORLD HERITAGE SITE
On June 26, 2009 the Do- the day. They are pale when lomites – grouped into nine the sun is shining, grey af- groups, including the Pale ter a thunderstorm, pink at di San Martino – were de- dawn and dusk. Huge and clared a natural UNESCO eternal compared to the World Heritage Site for be- human dimension, they are ing among the most spectac- among the first witnesses ular creations in the world. of the geological past, when The millennial erosion they were coral atolls in the of ice and water has mod- middle of the sea of the Tri- elled this mountain range assic. They are also home to with incredible facets: spires, a botanical and wildlife herit- pinnacles, overhanging rock age so precious for the eco- cliffs, plateaus and dips that system. It is easy then to see cause the colour of these why, for centuries, they have mountains to change with fascinated botanists, moun- the lights and shadows of taineers, artists and tourists.
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GREEN WAY PRIMIERO, A LIFESTYLE
Green Way Primiero stands points, with e-bikes and re- for a whole range of best served cycling paths. practices aimed at improv- While these projects on ing and ensuring sustaina- the one hand contribute to bility, development and re- the economic and social im- spect for the extraordinary provement of the local pop- environment that makes this ulation, on the other they territory unique because of translate into a value to be its spectacular landscapes shared with the guests who and sites. decide to spend a vacation By now, it has become a in a territory at the top of real lifestyle, continuously in- environmental excellence, vesting in launching innova- for an exclusive holiday with tive projects in the field of low ecological impact. production and use of ener- In a “green way” val- gy through natural resources ley, even tourists can active- such as water and wood, and ly contribute to saving water in reducing the use of fossil and energy, as well as to re- fuel, considerably limiting the duce littering and use alter- use of oil. Mobility solutions native mobility solutions, in with low environmental im- order to limit air pollution. pact that rely on electric ve- hicles for transportation are already a reality, with battery charging totems scattered almost everywhere. Green Way has also in- troduced cards that allow integrated circulation be- tween buses and ski lifts – the latter being powered with electricity entirely produced from renewable sources – and bike sharing
8 sanmartino.com THE DOLOMITES RECHARGE YOU! If you get to our resorts by an electric or hybrid car, you can find a free charging station in the Green Way Prim- iero hotels taking part in the initiative. More info at greenwayprimiero.it.
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10 sanmartino.com THE PALE DI SAN MARTINO
They dominate the land- the Pale stands boldly before scape, unrivalled, majestic us. We can also admire them and elegant. from Vanoi, as a magnificent We see them wherev- backdrop to Lake Calaita. er we turn our gaze, as they Since the 1860s, they almost touch the sky, some have been a land of con- nearing three thousand me- quest for the first English and tres in height, others reach- German climbers, and little ing even higher. We are ad- by little, they have become miring the peaks that form the cradle of the greatest the Group of the Pale di San Alpine triumphs, with some Martino, the vastest of the of the most famous “clas- Dolomites. These famous sics” of the Alps: the Solled- mountains, from Cimon del- er route to Sass Maor, the la Pala to Vezzana, from Ro- Spigolo del Velo route, the setta to Pala, from Sass Maor Buhl route to Canali. Today, to Madonna, passing by Ci- thanks to the many trails, ski ma Canali up to the smooth lifts and mountain shelters, wall of Monte Agnèr, form these routes are also acces- a round crown that sur- sible to common hikers, who rounds a large plateau of fif- can admire a landscape that ty square kilometres of pure ranges from Marmolada to limestone, shored here and Antelao, from Pelmo to Civ- there with cinquefoils, ram- etta. pions, yellow-leaved poppies, Five are the shelters to saxifrages, gentians and Edel- be reached if you want to weiss. be at the heart of this world: From Passo Rolle to San Giovanni Pedrotti alla Roset- Martino di Castrozza, from ta, Velo della Madonna, Pra- the villages of Primiero to didali, Canali-Treviso and Val Canali, passing through Mulaz, climbing up the trails Sagron Mis, up Valles pass and tackling the vie ferrate, al- and re-joining on the Rolle ways properly marked and pass, the towering sight of maintained.
sanmartino.com 11 ENVIRONMENT AND NATURE
LAGORAI
In front of the pale walls ern Trentino, and in winter of the Pale di San Martino for ski-mountaineering or stand the porphyritic rocks snowshoe excursions. The of the Lagorai chain and term Lagorai comes from the granitic rocks of Cima the Italian word for Lake d’Asta. The range is 70 km and, in fact, there are several long and starting from Pas- lakes of glacial origin across so Rolle it crosses Vanoi and the chain. These places have Valsugana, reaching almost been the scene of many bat- as far as Trento. These sites tles during World War I, as are the kingdom of wilder- can be seen from the many ness, appreciated by both bullets, helmets, medals of common hikers and ex- soldiers found in the moun- pert climbers. They can be tains and now treasured in accessed from Passo Rolle, the Great War Museum in San Martino di Castrozza or Caoria. This alpine landscape Valle del Vanoi. is still largely uncontami- The Lagorai area is ideal nated, and has only slight- also for mountain bike rides ly been modified by human and horseback riding down activity tied to wood hauling the Bridle path of East- and mountain pasturing.
12 sanmartino.com VETTE FELTRINE
The mountain range that di San Martino, are an area culminates in the spectacu- protected by the Dolomiti lar pyramid shape of Mount Bellunesi National Park. Pavione consists of the Vette Approaching from Prim- Feltrine, marking the natural iero, one may follow two border between the two re- main paths, both accessed gions Trentino and Veneto. from Val Noana: to Alpe Ve- With altitudes of just over derna and then up to Pavi- 2,000 metres, these tow- one, or up to the Boz shelter, ering peaks form the natu- a pleasant hike on a zig-zag- ral barrier of Val Noana and ging trail. fence the Primiero valley to The Vette Feltrine are al- the South. so the turning point of the The highest and most terminal part of trail Alta Via spectacular peak is undoubt- delle Dolomiti No. 2, which edly the Pavione pyramid links Feltre to Bressanone, (2335 meter high) which, on crossing six of the most the Venetian side, loses its beautiful groups of the Dolo- rocky conformation, becom- mites: from the Odle group ing a high altitude pasture. to Sella, from Marmolada to Even the Vette, like the Pale the Pale di San Martino.
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14 sanmartino.com THE NATURE PARK
The Paneveggio - Pale di San al use of resources, the Park Martino Nature Park was is divided into natural re- established in 1967 to pre- serves, from strict high-value serve and enhance the beau- ones such as the Pale di San ty of highly heterogeneous Martino, the area of Col- environments, and extends bricon and Castellazzo, to over an area of nearly 200 the guided ones, where agri- sq km. The Pale di San Mar- cultural, silvicultural and pas- tino, the forest of Paneveg- toral activities are permit- gio, the Lagorai chain, are- ted in their traditional forms: as that are among the Spe- Val Canali, Calaita, Paneveg- cial Protection Areas within gio, Valsorda. Then there are the European network Nat- monitored reserves which ura 2000. Here nature does have a higher anthropic not mean the absence of presence and include ski lifts humans, but a perfect bal- and ski slopes, special wild- ance between man and na- life reserves where scientif- ture, between rural activities ic research aimed at a bet- like mountain pasturing and ter knowledge of the spe- wood hauling, which harmo- cies is carried out, and spe- niously blend with tourist cial forest reserves in which activities. To achieve an har- the forest is left to its natural mony between the need for evolution for ecological re- conservation and a ration- search purposes.
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THE PARK: FIND OUT MORE
Villa Welsperg in Val Canali to geology: a model shows is a modern visitors’ centre the Plateau of the Pale and with a library, a spacious gar- the interactive blow-ups de- den with ancient varieties of scribe the peculiarities of scented roses, and the me- the high-altitude environ- dicinal plant garden. The vis- ments and the archaeologi- itors’ centre Terra Foresta of cal sites of Colbricon. In Valle Paneveggio unveils the many del Vanoi, the three centres functions of the forest and of Caoria, Pra’ de Madègo the animals that live there. and Pradi de Tognola are the Nearby, a large enclosure doors to the Ethnograph- houses a group of deer, and ic Trail, a collection of paths a trail that leads to a dar- that connect the valley floor ing bridge suspended on the with Malga Vesnòta, passing Travignolo Gorge. The vis- through Valsorda and Valzan- itors’ centre of San Marti- ca, in a highly valuable nature no di Castrozza is dedicated environment.
16 sanmartino.com TRIALS IN THE PARK
In the Park, tourists can walk the Travignolo torrent on a down several theme-based hanging bridge. Of particu- trails. lar interest is the itinerary One of the most unu- Tonadico-Cimerlo: after a sual is certainly The Muse visit to the old picture gal- Fedaie in Val Canali: a flat lery-town of Tonadico with barrier-free foot path suit- its historic Palazzo Scopo- able for all which unwinds li, the route climbs up to Val for 3.5 km in a double ring Canali through several spots along the large meadow that of historical and cultural in- joins Villa Welsperg with the terest. The ancient church small lake of the same name. of San Vittore, Don Fugan- There are seven stages ded- ti’s Apiary, the Madonna del- icated to the woods of the la Luce capital, the former Muses, spirit guides in Greek Boaleti hydroelectric pow- mythology that lead men er plant, and Castel Pietra, all to ponder about the mag- the way up to Villa Welsperg. nificent complexity of- Na The more athletic ones ture. Here visitors will also will also enjoy three geo- experience the Kneipp hy- logical trails: Valles-Venegia, drotherapy method and re- Crode Rosse and Calaita-Ci- laxation sessions, and find ma d’Arzon. Fascinating from descriptive panels of local a historical perspective are crafts, as well as vintage pho- the paths in the Vanoi val- tos. ley that offer the opportuni- Especially pleasant is the ty of visiting places, now part Sentiero Marciò trail within of the Park, where the after- the Paneveggio forest, with math of World War I has left the adventurous crossing of indelible marks.
More info at parcopan.org
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ECOMUSEO DEL VANOI
The Ecomuseo del Vanoi is an troduce you to the themes open-air museum that por- developed in other sites: the trays the community, its his- Stanza del Sacro of Zortea, tory and wealth of knowl- a “conservatory” of the re- edge. It extends to the whole lationship between man, re- territory with the purpose ligiousness and the territory; of providing a fresh taste the “Casa del Sentiero Et- of culture to Valle del Vanoi, nografico” of Caoria that in- and new economic and so- troduces a rendition of the cial élan, organising activities, paths of the trail of the same courses and workshops that name, with about 25 km of are sure to keep visitors and explorable itineraries within locals entertained through- the Paneveggio-Pale di San out the year. Martino Nature Park. The calendar of events If you walk this trail, do on a discovery of the wide- not miss the opportunity to spread heritage unfolds in visit the Siega de Valzanca, a seven themes: water, wood, rebuilt Venetian-style saw- stone, grass, the sacred, war mill, and the ancient rural and mobility. settlement of Pradi de Tog- All the events pursue nola, to tangibly experience the goal of responsible and a lifestyle of old; worthwhile sustainable development, visiting in Caoria is also the with a view to improving the Museum of the Great War quality of life of the people on Lagorai. In Ronco Cain- who live here and to build- ari you can visit two recent- ing a “glocal” community. ly renovated mills that offer If you want to learn more a glimpse on a mountain ag- about its mission, we rec- riculture which is difficult to ommend a visit to the “Ca- pin down today, also based sa dell’Ecomuseo” in Ca- on the cultivation of cereals, nal San Bovo, which will in- especially maize.
18 sanmartino.com sanmartino.com 19 SPORT SPORT
ALWAYS ACTIVE
If it is true that sports rhyme ning, from comfortable cy- with fitness, this area is the cling tours with an e-bike to ideal place to practice them. the more “hard” paths with Alpine guides, Ski instructors, an mtb, are a refreshing pass- Territorial Guides, Mountain time and the easiest way to Bike instructors and the Park enjoy pristine places where rangers offer individual or natural beauty majestically group courses and lessons, dominates the landscape. but also tours and guided There are also other in- visits. teresting sporting practices For those who prefer you can take a wing at: trek- organising their own holiday kingolf, canyoning, downhill programme, tourist offices biking, fishing, orienteering, and accommodation facili- horse riding, nordic walk- ties hand out guides, maps, ing, rock climbing - indoors schedules, and deliver rec- or on the many cliffs -, not to ommendations and a whole mention the classic moun- lot of tips. taineering on the Pale. The important thing is In winter, it’s snow-time, to come prepared, checking and one can enjoy all the the weather ahead of time “white” disciplines: downhill so that you bring the prop- and cross-country skiing, er equipment. From spring snowboarding, free ride ski- to autumn, classic sports, ing, snow-shoeing, hiking on from simple walks to excur- beaten trails and ice climbing sions, from trekking to run- for the more experienced.
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ON THE WAY
A few steps is all it takes panied by local professionals, in the local towns to stroll the possibilities are bound- along quiet lanes, bike paths less. The ski lifts will get you and trails, to reach the in just a few minutes to the low-lying areas along the riv- top, from where you can ad- ers, the many playgrounds mire the Dolomites in all that offer relaxation in the their beauty. The high moun- hottest days and entertain- tain huts and the eateries, ment for your children, but including dairy huts, restau- also half-altitude meadows rants and holiday farms, of- and then on up to the moun- fer a perfect combination of tain slopes. Alone or accom- exercise and tasteful dining.
22 sanmartino.com HIGH MOUNTAIN HUTS
Built in strategic positions, at the end of a day’s excur- high mountain huts repre- sion and the unique atmos- sent a comfortable accom- phere of the evenings spent modation solution mountain with one’s walking compan- lovers who appreciate the ions exchanging anecdotes, essence of a high-altitude stories and jokes while sip- experience and want to live ping local grappa. unique experiences: to wake In the area there are up early in the morning and eight high mountain huts, admire the sun rise over five of them on the Pale di the peaks, to get ready ea- San Martino. They are always gerly after breakfast and set open from 20 June to 20 off once more with a back- September (and those low- pack for the day, the good er down even before and af- smell of a wholesome soup ter).
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DOLOMITI PALARONDA TREK
Dolomiti Palaronda Trek is since the past century. In the a trekking bout through the evening, after a magic sun- Pale di San Martino, three set, you can enjoy the pleas- or four days long, with over- ure of being together with night accommodation in your travelling companions four refuges: Pedrotti alla at the refuge, sharing your Rosetta, Pradidali, Velo della experiences with other hik- Madonna and Canali-Trevi- ers. so. A proposal recommend- The trail is undertaken ed for those who want to independently (without an experience the mountain Alpine guide, who however in its essence, rediscover- is available on demand sub- ing the authentic charm that ject to an additional charge). has conquered the hearts of It is essential to be properly travellers and mountaineers equipped and sufficiently fit.
24 sanmartino.com SOFT OR HARD TREK?
There are two versions of love the via ferratas and the Dolomiti Palaronda trek. gives you the possibility to The Soft Trek is a beau- visit all the group of the Pa- tiful trekking from hut to hut la from north to south. The (Rosetta, Pradidali and Can- offer includes 4 nights in the ali-Treviso) through the Pa- huts and 3 equipped routes, la, including 3 nights with including the “Bolver Lugli”, halfboard, a pass for the lifts one of the finest via ferratas Colverde-Rosetta, informa- in the Dolomites, with won- tion material and hiking map; derful rock, good cables and The Hard Trek is ded- great views. icated to the people who
More info at palarondatrek.com
VIA FERRATAS Via ferratas climb up veritable rock faces, equipped with fixed steel-wire ropes, rungs or ladders.- Fer ratas should never be underestimated and must be tackled with the correct equipment (helmet, har- ness and via ferrata set with shock absorber). If you do not have any climbing or mountain experience, we recommend that you contact the Alpine Guides. On the Pale you can choose among seven equipped routes: the most famous are the very hard “Bolver Lugli” to the Fiamme Gialle bivouac hut on Cimon della Pala (500mt) and the “Ferrata del Velo” that con- nects Rifugio Pradidali to Rifugio del Velo.
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26 sanmartino.com BIKE
From spring to autumn, omiti Lagorai Grand Bike Tour, when the soil is in better a course that in 6 days and conditions, two-wheel en- over 300 km also reaches thusiasts can run wild. For- the neighbouring valleys of mer world champion Mas- Fiemme, Fassa and Valsuga- simo Debertolis lives and na. For those who are seek- trains here. From a careless ing valuable technical guid- stroll down along the val- ance, outings with the in- ley bottom of Primiero to structors of the Lagorai Bike more challenging hikes on School are essential. You can the tracks at the foot of Pale also rent the bikes and the di San Martino, Vette Feltrine maps with itineraries, fact and Lagorai, you’ll have sev- sheets and tested altimeter eral options to choose from. profiles are a good way to Notice boards are in- start. There is no shortage of stalled along the best paths, bike shops, as well as other so you can discover a ter- awesome options for moun- ritory of great naturalistic tain biking lovers, including wealth, where the care for the Dolomiti S.Mart Bike the environment and for all Hotels, which offer hospital- guests ranks high. The most ity tailored to the lovers of trained bikers covet the Dol- this sport.
BIKE TRANSALP San Martino di Castrozza is one of the BIKE TRANSALP’s stage locations, the most famous stage race for mountain bike teams of two. The routing leads in eight stages from Germany across the main chain of the Alps to Italy. Around 625 kilometer and more than 19.000 altitude meters are defeated in sev- en days. Pure adrenaline!
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28 sanmartino.com BIKE ARENA
The San Martino Bike Are- ence in altitude. During the na on the Alpe Tognola is a downhill run, it is possible to great adventure, with two go off the trail and continue trials specifically dedicated on the Forest Road to the to downhill and two Endu- cable car departure station ro trail in the woods. Tognola. Served by Tognola ca- The two XC/Enduro ble car for a quick lift and an trails are fun and challeng- easy bike transportation, the ing, but need a great train- TognolaDHUno trail is pro- ing: from the Rifugio Tognola vided with structures and the paths enter pastures and passages, parabolic curves woods and then goes down and jumps to allow riders (and sometimes also uphill!) to jump and express their as far as the small villages in proficiency in front of the the Vanoi Valley. breathtaking Dolomitic Pale During July and August, of the San Martino group. In a weekly guided outdoor proximity of the most diffi- tour with local cycle – tour- cult passages, there are al- ist guides is organised. And ways easier options available then… relax in Chill Ar- (Chickern Line). The brand ea on the terrace and send new TognolaDHDue is de- to your friends the photos voted to the best riders and you’ve just took in the Park! offers also northshore and At the starting station of the an easy road-gap. The trails cableway Tognola biker find are nearly 5km long with also a bike rent, bike wash- a total 700 metres differ- ing and technical assistance.
More info at sanmartinobikearena.com
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WAY UP HIGH
The spectacular climbing ali-Treviso mountain hut, the routes of the Pale di San Ferrata del Velo that con- Martino are famous world- nects the Pradidali and Ve- wide. Renowned among lo della Madonna mountain them are the Spigolo del Ve- huts. Among the equipped lo, the Buhl on Cima Can- trails, the best known are ali and the Solleder at Sass the one at Passo di Ball that Maor. The vie ferrate and leads to Rifugio Pradidali and equipped trails are a “sim- those in Val Canali, dedicat- pler” way to get to the top, ed to Dino Buzzati and the but they nonetheless re- guide from Primiero Camil- quire some training, no ver- lo Depaoli. When climbing at tigo and a basic knowledge this altitude, we recommend of elementary climbing tech- you bring along a map of the niques. The most popu- trails, and read up on the lar vie ferrate are the Bolv- paths and weather forecasts, er-Lugli on Cimon della Pala, asking the Alpine Guides for the Canalone near the Can- any additional information
SPORT CLIMBING There are many different cliffs to choose from, rang- ing from the picturesque porphyry slabs of Tognazza to the historic and selective crag of Mount Totoga, from the comfortable routes on the rock of Castel Pietra to the more demanding ones in Val Schener, or in charm- ing Val Noana. More than 1,000 routes on 53 cliffs, each with its own history and distinctive traits. The cliffs of Primiero have made the history of rock climb- ing thanks to some especially beautiful and difficult routes: among all, Il Mattino dei maghi on Totoga (1981, perhaps the first 8th in Europe) and Eternit (9th) on Baule, both trailed for the first time by the strong lo- cal climber Maurizio Zanolla Manolo.
30 sanmartino.com SKI LIFTS
From the centre of San enjoy a startling view of the Martino di Castrozza the mountain chain of the Pale Colverde cable car brings di San Martino. Alpe Tognola us at the foot of the Pale and is a natural paradise for hik- to a charming mountain hut; ers and bikers, it also has a from Colverde we contin- children’s playground right ue with the Rosetta cable- next to the restaurant, with way to rise up by more than a large sunbathing area. 1000 metres and reach the The quick Punta Ces edge of the Plateau of the chair-lift leads to a sunny Pale, over 2500 metres high. mountain hut, with a unique A short trip brings us 360° view, in the heart of to mountain hut Rifugio Pe- the Lagorai chain. At Passo drotti alla Rosetta, place of Rolle, the Paradiso chair-lift departure on many excur- brings us to the summit of sions and climbings. The To g - Cavallazza, the starting point nola cable car brings us in- for excursions along trails to the realm of woods and and trenches of the first alpine meadows, where we world war.
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THE “AQUILE”
The Alpine Guides Group ter, the Guides will take you “Aquile di San Martino e on exciting itineraries with Primiero” was formed as snowshoes in the most fas- early as 1881, founded by cinating territories around four natives of Primiero who San Martino and Passo have written memorable Rolle, or on free ride and ski pages in mountaineering his- mountaineering outings. The tory: Michele Bettega, Borto- Alpine Guides are awesome lo Zagonel, Antonio Tavern- storytellers, faithful keep- aro, Giuseppe Zecchini. To- ers of the secrets of these day, the Group counts some mountains, and love to share 40 specialised profession- them during the excursions. als in all mountain sporting The guides are always disciplines, who are eager to available to offer suggestions take visitors on guided hikes and tips to those who pre- and trekking and via ferra- fer to organise their own ex- ta routes on the Pale di San cursions. A day spent in their Martino and the Dolomites. company is an opportunity The summer schedule to discover not only the ter- is intense and packed with ritory, but also the customs events, and includes activi- and local traditions, past and ties for any level of experi- present. Their mountaineer- ence and skill, from excur- ing stories, with plenty of lo- sions inside the Nature Park cal insights, are collected pe- Paneveggio Pale di San Mar- riodically in the Aquile mag- tino to classic and sport azine, which the Group is climbing courses. In win- proud to publish.
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ACTIVITIES WITH CHILDREN
We’re finally on vacation, tain bike. Or, let the children with so many exciting things try the parabolics at the Kids to do! First things off, let’s Mountain Bike Minipark on hop over to the tourist of- Alpe Tognola. Up there you fice. Then, plan our excur- also will find a playground sions with the help of the Al- with a mini artificial rock pine Guides. And we can al- gym. You cannot miss a visit ways dedicate some time to to the educational farm like the many events at the Na- the farmhouse inn Dalaip ture Park and the Ecomu- dei Pape, to meet the farm- seum. Together we can try ers who live there and the canyoning down the Neva animals too, roaming in their River in Val Noana. We can natural habitat. It will be like zigzag our way from park to stepping into a nature lab park on our bikes, down the to learn upfront about life valley’s cycling track. In the in the mountains, in a relax- Vallombrosa Park there is ing and entertaining family a path to learn about road atmosphere. And when we signs and a more technical get back home, we will have one to cover on your moun- lots of stories to tell!
AGILITY FOREST ADVENTURE PARK This is a set of acrobatic itineraries suspended in the Colfosco Wood, a stone’s throw from San Martino di Castrozza. Rather than walk with our feet on the ground, we leap about like Tarzan from tree to tree, with harness, rope and snap-hook. It is sheer fun with a good dose of adrenaline, and everyone, regardless of age, can discover new forms of movement and face their innate fears with the assistance of the on-site staff. The five paths have 58 variants: “piccoli brividi” (goosebumps), a 55m long pulley rope for children aged three to six, two beginner’s paths and two more challenging routes.
34 sanmartino.com ORIENTEERING
Visitors can practice orien- maps cover the whole ter- teering all year round, racing, ritory, including the histor- with cross-country skis or ic towns. There are about riding their mountain bike, 40 poles with lanterns in Val and turns out to be a pleas- Canali, with eight points in ure also in an amateur-hik- the meadows around Lake ing way. All it takes is a lit- Welsperg; free maps are tle practice and a knack for available at Villa Welsperg. reading maps to choose the Similarly, San Martino di shortest and fastest path. Castrozza also has a num- Primiero boasts a long tra- ber of paths: great for train- dition in this sport first -in ing, they offer visitors an op- vented in Scandinavia, and portunity to discover a rec- an impressive roster of top reational-sporting activity athletes. The World Junior in absolute harmony with Championships were held nature, amidst forests and here in 2009. Currently the meadows.
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36 sanmartino.com SNOWBOARD AND FREESTYLE
Freestyle and snowboard only one in North-East Italy. lovers can try their hand Brand new is the Snowpark at stunts and jumps on the Colverde, which develops beautiful facilities of the into two areas, a wider one three snow-parks in the ski along the ski slope that leads area. Fun is guaranteed with to the right of the plant, and the rails boxes, rails and a shorter in the last part of rainbows. The San Martino the track, with various box- Snowpark is part of the ski es, including a 3-metre kink, area Tognola in San Martino a rainbow, and 6 and 8-me- di Castrozza and stretches tre tubes. And you can al- nearly 1 km along the Scan- so practice stunts at night dola slope. thanks to the lit slopes. The Access to the park is free Rolle Railz Park is situated for all skiers and snowboard- on the ski slopes at Passo ers, with facilities designed Rolle. The area is accessible for all levels of skill. It hosts with the Castellazzo chairlift one of the 5 Burton Pro- and offers several multi-level gression Parks in Europe, the facilities with rails and jumps.
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DOWNHILL SKIING
Downhill skiing has always not get enough during the been the main sport in San day. Beginners or first-time Martino di Castrozza. 60 skiers can use the ski lifts of km of slopes form the ski Prà delle Nasse in the town resort of San Martino and centre, with two slopes that Passo Rolle, and the ski ar- are perfect for learning the ea is part of the great Dol- sport and for children and omiti Superski carousel. At a playground to keep an 2,000 metres, Passo Rolle eye on the kids. While the is among the first places to younger ones follow the in- open the lifts and among structor, parents can en- the last to close them; the joy a sunbath. Visitors stay- season normally lasts from ing at Passo Rolle can access late November to late April. the ski slopes right in front The ski area lies within the of Cimon della Pala: down- Paneveggio-Pale di San Mar- hill tracks for skiers of every tino Nature Park, in a setting level, from beginners to the of rare natural beauty, with more advanced. The altitude breath-taking landscapes over 2,000 metres helps and views. A comfortable preserve the snow in perfect ski-bus service is available. condition. From the Primie- In San Martino di Castroz- ro valley bottom, in a few za, the Carosello delle Mal- minutes you can reach Pas- ghe offers 45 kilometres of so Cereda, with a fun slope multi-level ski slopes to suit for the whole family. all tastes. Another ski resort Skiing at these resorts just beneath the Pale di San goes hand in hand with good Martino is Colverde, with a food. Many excellent restau- slope running about 3 kilo- rants, mountain and dairy metres in two variants that huts offer fine cuisine, direct- also allows skiing at night, ly on the slopes or near the for those who simply can- facilities.
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FREERIDE SKIING
When runs are not enough, er snow conditions, slope lovers of freeride can discov- stability and the danger of er a world of trails through avalanches. In every ski area, woods and incredible open a map shows the off-piste spaces! Thanks to the differ- areas where you can “free- ent exposures of slopes, in ly circulate” and those with this area you can find -de forbidden access because of scents on fresh and powdery a high risk of avalanches. snow, humps, natural jumps Backcountry skiers will and chimneys throughout love the descents in the Ci- the winter months! Remem- ma Rosetta area, in the Alpe ber, however, that freeride Tognola - Valcigolera woods skiing requires great skill and or on the Passo Rolle alpine experience: carefully consid- pastures.
KING OF DOLOMITES Lovers of powder snow should not miss the King of Dolomites in February at San Martino di Castrozza, the two-day photo contest to shoot the most beauti- ful and evocative shot of freeride skiing in the Dolo- mites. In front of and behind the lenses, photographs and riders are split into two categories: PRO (re- served to 14 teams of professional photographers and riders) and WANNABES (open). The King of each cat- egory will be proclaimed by a select jury comprised of journalists and photographers. More info at kingofdolomites.com
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ONE-OF-A-KIND SKI SLOPES
All virtually located in the tical wall that looks menac- Paneveggio-Pale di San Mar- ing from the chairlift, and the tino Nature Park, the slopes Castellazzo, amusing for the of the ski area have been constant changes in eleva- studied and designed to fit tion and the slope with the perfectly in the surround- longest season in the Super- ing scenery. Keep an eye out; ski Dolomiti carousel (usu- more probably than not, you ally from late November will notice deer and cham- to late April). An extensive ois watching you while you choice is available to lovers climb up the lift. All the most of “comfortable and fami- demanding slopes along the ly-friendly” slopes, with sev- 45 km of Carosello delle eral wide and well-trodden Malghe are within “close tracks. Protected by the for- range”. Besides the classic est, which can be appreci- TognolaUno, with the steep ated most on windy days - final “wall” that is the joy of Colverde is ideal for those expert skiers, Cima Tognola seeking an intermediate-lev- is also a pleasure to ski, es- el slope and who want to ski pecially in conjunction with at night. The ultimate school Tognola Tre, which togeth- ground is Prà delle Nasse, a er form the longest slope in stone’s throw from the cen- the ski area, a dive of near- tre of San Martino: two par- ly one thousand metres. The allel slopes where you can Direttissima and Colbricon learn to ski and an area re- slopes are sure to put you to served for children, with the test: a dip from the 2250 treadmills, inflatables and meters of Punta Ces down a playground. Children will to Malga Ces, and then all find a Kinderheim and sev- the way into town. At Pas- eral areas reserved just for so Rolle you can’t miss the them also atop Alpe Tognola, Paradiso, a slope with a ver- easily reachable by cable car.
42 sanmartino.com SKIING BY NIGHT
The ski slopes and snow- as for a full-day skiing, or for park Colverde are lit so a fun skiing-and-culinary es- that you can enjoy the thrill capade with the finest -lo of skiing at night; the slopes, cal cuisine. Cross-country with a difference in altitude skiers, too, can have fun or of around 500 metres, are practice until late: the free- fun and medium-difficulty, style and classic tracks in San with repeated changes in in- Martino di Castrozza and cline, and almost step down Imèr have lighting systems into the centre of San Mar- that allow you to ski even af- tino. The snowpark allows ter dinner. Night skiing is an a perfect jib line and offers original and magical expe- much space for freestyle rience, because the lit bal- evolutions. loons spread a soft light, cre- All this makes Colverde ating very impressive effects ideal for night skiing as well on the track.
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NORDIC SKIING
Wherever you may be, a showers and waxing room, cross-country skiing track is ideal for lovers of top-lev- nearby, in the same charm- el Nordic skiing. The tracks ing natural environment and are divided into rings of dif- amidst spectacular views. The ferent lengths and difficul- cross-country skiing centre ty for a total of 15 km, some Prà delle Nasse in San Mar- of which are very demand- tino di Castrozza features ing, approved for national locker-rooms, ski rental and and international competi- deposit, and ski instructors tions. There are another two available to give lessons. The rings in Imèr, at the Ski Arena rings are three, for different Le Peze, one of which lit for levels (beginner, intermediate night-time skiing. The tracks and advanced) and stretch are very easy, with minimal over a total of 9 km. The drop and running a total four school ground, 1800 metres kilometres. In Calaita, a few long, is lit for skiers to prac- kilometres from the towns tice at night. Passo Cereda in Valle del Vanoi, there is an too, a few minutes by car or easy 8-km track with various ski bus from Primiero, has a rings just around the frozen cross-country skiing centre lake, in a beautiful sunny and equipped with locker-rooms, scenic location.
44 sanmartino.com SKIING SCHOOL
Learn whichever skiing disci- children and persons with pline you like, or simply im- disabilities, and offer group, prove your technique, thanks baby or personalised cours- to the services of a local in- es in the various skiing disci- structor. As many as 130 in- plines. Both schools reserve structors grouped into two special attention to teaching separate schools, Scuola Ital- little ones through playful ac- iana Sci e Snowboard San tivities, to make skiing pure Martino di Castrozza and fun. And to top things off, Scuola Italiana Sci Dolomiti. there are cross-country ski These are skilled and spe- instructors for you to learn cialised professionals, who the appropriate technique are licensed to also teach and style.
SUPERNORDICSKIPASS SuperNordicSkipass is the first and largest Italian cross-country skiing circuit. A single ski pass allows you to ski a thousand miles of tracks in Trentino, Veneto and Emilia Romagna. The local cross-country skiing centres are in San Martino di Castrozza, Imèr and Passo Cere- da. Skiers can practice both the classical technique with alternate step and the skating technique on the tracks of the centre, groomed daily.
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MORE THAN JUST SKIING
If you wish an alternative to dren and torchlight proces- skiing, or simply something sions for young skiers, but al- extra to add to it, there is a so acrobatic snowboard and rich weekly programme of skiing shows and drills with events here from January to the avalanche dog training Easter. It ranges from sports school of the Finance Police. and physical exercise to cul- An unusual and exciting way ture and gastronomy: snow- to experience the atmos- shoe excursions with the Al- phere of the mountain villag- pine guides, guided walks in es and the environment of the Park, guided visits to ar- the Paneveggio-Pale di San tistic and architectural treas- Martino Nature Park in the ures, fun workshops for chil- quiet of the winter season.
46 sanmartino.com SNOWSHOEING IN THE WOODS
Moving nimbly on the snow are experts guiding you and in the woods is easy with the lift facilities at your ser- snowshoes on your feet and vice. Be sure to pay a visit, the Alpine Guides at your then, to the Altopiano delle side. The snowshoes also al- Pale or the Fradusta glacier. low those who are not par- At Passo Rolle there are al- ticularly athletic to experi- so two new paths provid- ence the winter mountain ed with information boards. from up close. An oppor- Round about Primiero, Val tunity to discover the sur- Canali is the Queen for ex- roundings of San Martino cursions among snow-cov- and Passo Rolle, Val Venegia, ered meadows and forests, the Orti Forestali, the Piani di but it is worth discovering Cavallazza, the snow-capped Val Noana, too, or venture in Colbricon lakes, Mount Cas- hidden and fascinating plac- tellazzo, but other places es along the paths in Valle too, seemingly inaccessible, del Vanoi and around Sa- but really simple when there gron-Mis.
sanmartino.com 47 4 VALLEYS YOU SHOULDN’T MISS Some places are just magical: wondrous nature and land- scapes, places one simply cannot miss for their uniqueness and diversity. Although comfortably reachable, they have preserved a sort of other dimension that offer a peek on how human activities can blend perfectly with the mountain environment, as when people in the past lived mainly off ag- riculture, forestry and animal husbandry. Dairy huts and typi- cal inns offer a well-earned rest and a refreshing break.
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VAL VENEGIA
An impressive natural am- at the foot of the Pale di San phitheatre, a land of pas- Martino: from Passo Rolle ture with an extraordinary we climb to Capanna Cerv- wealth of vegetation and ino and Baita Segantini with forests that push us to the their picture-postcard views, foot of the screes of the Mu- then down a long dirt road laz, Vezzana and Cimon del- to the characteristic Malga la Pala peaks, kingdom of Venegiota, heading towards deer and chamois that wa- the larger Malga Veneg- ter at the Travignolo torrent. ia, open even in winter. The In winter, when the white of other access route sets out snow reigns supreme, the from Pian dei Casoni, along valley is the perfect place the road that leads to Passo for hiking with snowshoes Valles, reachable by car or on and for ski mountaineer- the shuttle bus service from ing. There are two entranc- Paneveggio. es to this beautiful “hollow”
50 sanmartino.com 4 VALLEYS YOU SHOULDN’T MISS
VAL CANALI
Privately-owned for centu- ows of Piereni or Prà Cimer- ries by the Welsperg fam- lo. Everything here is a dis- ily, feudal lords of Primie- covery: at the high-altitude ro, which has limited its an- mountain huts Pradidali and thropisation and preserved Canali-Treviso you are sure its environmental peculiari- to experience high-moun- ties. Val Canali is worth being tain life at its fullest. In sum- discovered, and a day sim- mer, the Canali torrent be- ply will not be enough. You comes a favourite destina- can go walking or mountain tion for playing happily with biking, or now even rent an the water that descends di- e-bike. rectly from the peaks. The You can sunbathe Muse Fedaie trail is a rather around the small lake, vis- original and interesting itin- it Villa Welsperg, visitor cen- erary, with a Kneipp step- tre of the Nature Park, you ping bath and theme-based can venture into the mead- shows.
sanmartino.com 51 4 VALLEYS YOU SHOULDN’T MISS
VAL NOANA
Wedged and carved by the Fonteghi, we find ourselves Noana torrent, the valley is in a wild world. Then, magi- a wild peculiarity of the ter- cally, the valley opens up and ritory. Long, narrow, con- softens with large meadows fined between overhanging and pastures in the Nève rocks, it looks like a canyon. and in Val Piana; a dirt road The torrent has shaped and leads to Alpe Vederna, and smoothed the large boul- a high-altitude trail leads to ders transported down- Rifugio Boz (1718 m) in the stream with the retreat of Dolomiti Bellunesi Nation- glaciers, that form spec- al Park. In winter, the Noa- tacular pools. From the vil- na valley becomes a pris- lages of Mezzano and Im- tine paradise for enthusiasts er, where Val Noana begins, of ski mountaineering and and for 9 km up to Rifugio snowshoe excursions.
CANYONING An adrenaline-charged challenge under the lead of the Alpine Guides! An exciting experience that turns climbing upside-down; you don’t climb your way up, but down, wearing a helmet, harness, rope and gear along the upper part of the Neva River in Val Noana. The stream has carved the rocks, forming a canyon of ravines which look like small natural pools to dive in, waterfalls to plunge into with the help of ropes and natural toboggans on which to slide. With the Alpine Guides, canyoning turns out to be a sport for every- one age eight and up; all you need is a bit of courage and enjoy wallowing in water... even in the rain. You’re guaranteed to have tons of fun!
52 sanmartino.com 4 VALLEYS YOU SHOULDN’T MISS
VALSORDA
Boundless forests and many to be populated during the marks left by humans: Val- hay-stacking season. Visitors sorda, in Valle del Vanoi, can continues their walk up is one of the gems of the to Malga Valsorda, 1918 me- Paneveggio-Pale di San Mar- tres high. You can also climb tino Nature Park. From the your way up to Valsorda village of Caoria the route from San Martino di Cas- reaches Prà de Madègo and trozza, with the Tognola ca- Pian della Siéga. Here the ble car, to then descend on Siéga de Valzanca is worth a foot or ride down the new- visit: it’s a Venetian-style wa- ly laid path on a mountain ter-run sawmill, still perfect- bike. At Prà dei Tassi, a re- ly efficient. Masi di Togno- stored farmhouse offers la, along the Rio Valsorda, twelve beds with toilets and is a spectacular rural mid- a cooking area for those high settlement, built with who wish to stay overnight. the blockbau method and Accommodation is rustic shingle roofs, which used and very suggestive.
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San Martino di Castrozza, sorts in Trentino. The alti- Passo Rolle, Primiero and tudes vary from the 700- Vanoi – many destinations 1000 metres a.s.l. of the bot- in a unique land overflow- tom valley towns up to the ing with extraordinary land- 1450 m of San Martino di scapes. They are among the Castrozza and the 2000 m most popular mountain re- of Passo Rolle.
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56 sanmartino.com TOWNS
SAN MARTINO DI CASTROZZA
In San Martino di Castrozza those who see sports as a you feel like you can touch way to stay fit, this is the ide- the mountains with a finger, al destination: in winter, it of- and nature perfectly blends fers all the activities normally with the small alpine cen- practicable on snow: classic tre, for a holiday up high downhill skiing, snowboard- (1450 meters above sea lev- ing, free-riding, cross-coun- el) with all the comforts and try skiing, snowshoeing, ski conveniences of a mountain mountaineering, and even summer and winter capi- go-karting on ice. In sum- tal. The crown of mountains mer, outdoor activities range counts Cimon della Pala, Ro- from classic excursions at all setta, Cusiglio, Pala, Cime di altitudes to the Adventure Val di Roda, Sass Maor, Ma- Park Agility Forest and the donna; to the south, you can Bike Arena, to nordic walk- gaze on the Vette Feltrine ing and playgrounds for your chain and, if you take a full children. In all seasons, the turn, the Lagorai offers Alpe sports arena - with the sky- Tognola and the Colbricon high free-climbing wall free and Cavallazza peaks. Visi- where you can feel what it’s tors do not have to wor- like to be a crawling “spider” ry about travelling long dis- – and wellness facilities of tances and ski lifts are easily the hotels are the main ven- reachable on foot. The eco- ues for indoor activities. bus service in summer and A succession of events the ski bus in winter make and shows offers a varie- moving around effortless ty worthy of the best tour- and connect the town with ist resorts, such as the wide Passo Rolle, just 9 km away. range of accommodations For mountain lovers and and excellent dining.
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PASSO ROLLE
Passo Rolle is the south- ture Park, with its magnifi- west gateway to the Dolo- cent forest ending where the mites, a Unesco World Her- pastures begin in summer, itage Site: Bureloni, Vezza- and the ski slopes in winter. na, Cimon della Pala, Roset- The high altitude makes it ta, Cime di Val di Roda, Ma- possible to ski from late au- donna, Sass Maor. In front of tumn to spring. It is the ide- the Pale di San Martino, the al starting point for discover- last offshoots of the Lago- ing the many dairy huts, Val rai with Cavallazza and Col- Venegia probably being the bricon. On the left, Monte most charming, and the Col- Castellazzo, reachable along bricon lakes with the small the trail “Sentiero del Cris- shelter, while Baita Seganti- to Pensante”, overlooking ni is a must stop for its pic- the whole landscape up to ture-postcard scenery. The the Marmolada. Passo Rolle more experienced hikers is nestled in the Paneveg- can dare to venture on the gio-Pale di San Martino Na- trail leading to Rifugio Mulaz.
58 sanmartino.com TOWNS
AN EXCEPTIONAL TOWN SEXTET
Here they are, the six towns ited to the main arteries, of the Primiero valley grazed countless walks along the by the Cismon and Canali valley floor and at mid-alti- torrents: Fiera, Siror, Tonadi- tude, spacious playgrounds co, Transacqua, Mezzano and for the children’s fun, many Imèr. Blessed with a pleasant fountains that quench your breeze, due to the sweet- thirst with fresh spring water. ness of the altitude between The 60 km of slopes of the 650 and 750 metres and to ski resort San Martino-Pas- the nearby woods, they are a so Rolle are 14 km away, wealth of unique discoveries. and the easy slope at Passo Their history is rich in Cereda just 8 km. For lovers ancient testimonies that of cross-country skiing, Imèr co-exist with a modern di- offers a nice circuit, even at mension, which boasts a di- night, Passo Cereda a cross versified range of high-qual- country centre that hosts ity, family-run accommo- top-class skiing contests, and dation facilities. Connect- in Calaita you can enjoy ski- ing bike lanes, traffic lim- ing on the frozen lake.
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FIERA DI PRIMIERO
This is the most important ed by the fountain designed economic centre of the ar- by the contemporary art- ea, built in the 15th centu- ist Max Gaudenzi and the ry. Leading marketplace and 17th century church of Ma- trade centre – from which it donna dell’Aiuto. The heart takes its name (Fiera is the of the sacred and the polit- Italian word for fair) – it was ical power of the late 1400s founded as a village for the is two steps away: the dom- wealthy businessmen who inant Palazzo delle Miniere arrived in the wake of the and the Gothic Archpriestal Welsperg family, feoffed in church of Madonna Assun- Primiero in 1401 by Leop- ta. Next to these, the church old, Archduke of Austria. The of San Martino and the Old pedestrian centre is much Rectory with the paintings of like a “living room” dominat- Madonna della Misericordia.
60 sanmartino.com TOWNS
THE OTHER TOWNS OF PRIMIERO
Transacqua, with the ham- Giacomo, we arrive at Siror, lets of Ormanico and a bustling village. In Decem- Pieve, is the most populous ber, the streets of the town town in Primiero. Its his- host the typical Christmas tory is closely tied to Ven- market. The municipal ter- ice, the main purchaser of ritory extends beyond the the timber of its surround- Cismon torrent towards ing woods. Birthplace of the small hamlet of Noles- Michele Bettega, first moun- ca. Mezzano and Imèr are tain guide on the Pale di San the first towns we encoun- Martino, it is part of the na- ter coming from the plain. tional “Town in Bloom” cir- The peasant array has been cuit: piazza San Marco and enhanced to such a degree the garden at Palazzo Som- that Mezzano is enclosed in eda blossom with an ex- the list of “The most beauti- plosion of roses in summer. ful villages in Italy”. Here the Within walking distance lies traditional wood piles have Tonadico, at the foot of Cas- inspired 26 permanent art tel Pietra, of which only the installations throughout the ruins remain nowadays. Mu- town centre: the exhibition rals depicting sacred and tra- Cataste&Canzei. In Imèr too, ditional scenes pop up on the rural architecture nice- every corner. Palazzo Sco- ly blends with many fine art poli, today site of the Town installations: twelve benches Hall, was the keeper of the designed by local artists of- medieval statutes and res- fer the possibility of taking idence of the family of no- a pleasant break, recreating taries of the same name. moments of social gather- Crossing the Campagna with ing. It has a nice playground its countless barchi (tradi- with a fun game of fountain tional baskets) to collect hay sprays that is even patented and the small Chapel of San for children with disabilities.
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THE VANOI VALLEY
Safely protected by the por- ley to Lake Calaita, or in the phyritic chain of Lagorai and direction of Passo Gobbera. the granitic massif of Cima From Canale, the road con- d’Asta, it extends over an tinues towards Caoria and area of approximately 125 Ronco – as many as four- sqkm. We reach the valley teen small towns – and Pas- from Imèr through a tun- so Brocon. The vehicle road nel crossing Mount Toto- stops at Rifugio Refavaie, but ga, or along the panoram- there is still the possibility of ic road of Passo Gobbera. continuing our journey on Canal San Bovo is the site foot or by mountain bike. of the Town Hall and chief Every town has its moments town of the valley, host- of celebration and festivi- ing many of the main pub- ty, including in autumn the lic services, from the library “Festa delle Brise” (porcino to the pharmacy, from the mushrooms). Cicona has for tourist office to the Eco- some years been home to museum. A short distance the summer comics exhibi- away we find the hamlets tion “Cicona Fumetto”, and of Cicona, Prade and Zor- every ten years, Prade stag- tea, from which we move es the religious drama “God- on towards the Lozen val- imondo e Fortunato”.
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SAGRON MIS
The small towns of Mis and possibility of building houses Sagron can be reached from on and among trees. Worth Primiero by crossing Pas- mentioning are “Intrecci del so Cereda. The territory is tempo”, a 7-km long trail on strongly geared to histori- a discovery of the human cal and environmental im- crafts and trades in different provement, relying on the eras, and the Mineralogical quality and respectful obser- Trail, on the traces of mer- vance of the local nature and cury and gold mines. Sagron landscape. An example is the Mis is located between the new natural Amphitheatre, Paneveggio-Pale di San Mar- built at the foot of the peaks tino Nature Park and the of the Cimonega Group, Belluno Dolomites Nation- very close to Torre T3, a fu- al Park. Overlooked by the turistic observation point Eastern offshoots of the Pale with a night vision telescope di San Martino, it has been and climbing gym. Sagron recognised as the first por- Mis has also commissioned a tal of Sistema 3 of the UN- feasibility study to assess the ESCO World Heritage site.
sanmartino.com 63 SIGHTSEEING ATTRACTIONS
The historical centres of all ly that for centuries ruled our towns in Primiero, Vanoi Primiero. Not far away, one and Sagron Mis offer inter- can admire the Park House esting sights, ancient rustic at the renovated Villa Wel- houses, stately homes, fres- sperg, built in the 1800s by coes from various eras, po- that powerful family to be lygonal stone fountains in used as a hunting lodge. The Venetian style, churches in countryside churches of San Romanesque style and from Silvestro (on a cliff overlook- later periods. On an inacces- ing the entrance of the val- sible crag at the entrance ley) and of San Giovanni ai of Val Canali stands Cas- Prati Liendri are worth a tel Pietra, an ancient cas- visit, especially for their six- tle of the Welsperg fami- teenth-century frescoes.
64 sanmartino.com THE LATE-GOTHIC HEART
The Palazzo delle Miniere most successful examples in Fiera di Primiero, formerly of late-Gothic art and ar- the seat of the Mining Court, chitecture in the Dolomites. was built and frescoed in Many details, like the date the late 15th century. Today, written in Gothic letters on it hosts the Museum of ma- a cross vault in the main terial culture of Primiero and nave, indicating 1493 as the a number of temporary ex- year when construction was hibitions. The Museum in- completed, and the badges cludes a permanent display with the tools of the trade, of fossils that traces earth’s bear witness to the fact that history from the meteor- miners, at the time known ites to the dinosaurs. One as Knappen, were involved section is dedicated to en- in the works. Even the al- gineer Luigi Negrelli (Fiera tar with rood doors (1485) di Primiero, 1799 - Wien, is Gothic. In addition to the 1858), a native of Primiero fine 17th century altars and and designer of the isthmus the choir dominated by the of the Suez Canal, as well splendid rose window, there as the renowned creator of are two paintings: the mysti- roads, rail lines, bridges and cal Unicorn hunt in the Hor- waterways under the Aus- tus conclusus on the left wall tro-Hungarian Empire. The and the Römer painting in the massive attic is an impres- apse, commissioned by min- sive display of wooden joints. ing judge Giangiacomo and Just nearby, the ancient little his wife in memory of their church of San Martino and deceased children. At the the Old Rectory with the end of the 1990s, archaeol- two paintings of Madonna ogists reportedly discovered della Misericordia (Our La- the remains of a very ancient dy of Mercy). Next to the paleo-Christian basilica: to- church is the majestic Arch- day, the drain of the ancient priestal church dedicated to baptismal font in the left aisle the Assumption, one of the is still visible to the public.
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TREASURES OF ART
In a dominant position on to” fresco depicting the Ec- the hill above the village of ce Homo are preserved in Tonadico stands the church the chapel at Palazzo Sco- of Saints Vittore and Coro- poli, symbolic stronghold of na, a shrine of superb fres- Tonadico, for centuries the coes dating from the mid- ancient Manor House, later 13th century. In the apse, abandoned and today seat the Assumption and dormitio of the Town Hall. virginis enriched with orig- Just a few steps away lies inal miniature scenes from Baita Paradiso, where Chiara the life of the two saints to Lubich – the founder of the whom the church is dedi- Focolare movement - ar- cated. The Gothic altar with rived in 1949, giving life to rood doors and a “stacca- the Mariapolis.
66 sanmartino.com MEZZANO, A ROMANTIC TOWN
Rightfully ranked as one of in 400 vegetable gardens the most beautiful villag- kept by the inhabitants; in es in Italy, Mezzano cele- the small ethnographic mu- brates rural life with themed seum made of artefacts and itineraries dedicated to wa- love; in the wooden frame ter, orchards, farming archi- that from the 1700s weaves tecture, engravings and fres- precious damasks, and ... coes. Against the awe-inspir- In this Museum under ing backdrop of the Pale di the sky, even the piles of San Martino, Mezzano puts wood are artistic master- on a show all of its own, of pieces: along the narrow al- those that charm for their leys, in the courtyards, un- disarming simplicity. The past der the stairs, on the balco- comes to new life in the old nies, the traditional supply of peasant houses in stone and logs for the winter dresses wood, skilfully renovated; in up and takes on unexpect- the onion-shaped belfry of ed forms. The 26 works of San Giorgio; in the squares the permanent exhibition that embrace the fountains; Cataste & Canzei shapes in the façades decorated by dreams, reinterprets histori- inscriptions and frescoes; in cal events, and tells the story the historic lisièra (laundry); of the owners.
sanmartino.com 67 SIGHTSEEING ATTRACTIONS
THE SITES OF THE ECOMUSEUM
The Ecomuseo del Vanoi is “highest” tour leads to Malga an open-air museum that Miesnotta, a dairy hut where treasures a number of key visitors can also stay over- sites, like the House of the night. The Paneveggio-Pale di Ecomuseum in Canal San San Martino Nature Park, in Bovo, the Sacred room in fact, has built a freely accessi- Zortea, the Mulini dei Cain- ble bivouac here. There is al- eri in Ronco, the Museum of ways a good reason to ded- the Great War and the ex- icate a day, or even more, to hibition of Arts and Crafts of the Ecomuseo del Vanoi: the long ago in Caoria. We rec- synergy between nature, hu- ommend a visit to the eth- man activity and tourism has nographic trail of Vanoi, with produced an exceptional re- several trail-like rings. The sult.
68 sanmartino.com SINCE PRE-HISTORIC TIMES
A sensational discovery was a large outcropping of cop- made in 1971 near the Col- per smelting slag. Though bricon lakes at Passo Rolle: not as ancient, the worship archaeologists found trac- sites reveal remnants of his- es of flint that allowed them torical and artistic signifi- to identify seasonal settle- cance, like the Archpriestal ments of Mesolithic Hunt- church and nearby Chapel ers dating back to more of San Martino. than 8000 years ago. In the Other sites that are defi- 1980s, Aldo Villabruna dis- nitely worth a visit are the covered the burial site of church of San Giovanni ai a hunter dating back to the Prati Liendri in Mezzano and Upper Paleolithic age in Val- the church of San Silvestro rosna, along the Schener on Mount Totoga dominat- road. A set of objects was ing the Primiero valley, with- found next to the skeleton, in walking distance of Passo including a knife, a bone tip, a Gobbera or from the ham- clot formed by propolis and let of Masi. They are only ochre, and shells of colum- open on certain occasions, bella, perhaps from trade but are an inspiring target, as bargains. More recent bur- they allow combining the in- ials, dating to the 6th-7th terest in local history of art century, were found at Imèr: with that of moving about among the relics, a female in nature. These mountain burial cloth, with jewels now churches, together with San preserved in the Museum at Vittore in Tonadico and the Castello del Buonconsiglio in ruins of Santa Romina on Trento. A proto-historic ar- Mount Bedolé, form an im- cheo-metallurgical area is at- aginary cross protecting tracting further research on the valley and are enjoined Mount Bedolé above Pieve, by the route “Trekking della where archaeologists found Crosèra”.
sanmartino.com 69 SIGHTSEEING ATTRACTIONS
70 sanmartino.com ARTISTIC HANDCRAFTS
We recommend a visit to sorts, using Swiss stone pine two workshops in Mez- from the forest of Paneveg- zano: the Artelèr weaving gio, linden and maple, but al- shop and the sculpturing so larch, ash and walnut. The workshop of brothers Ren- Zeni brothers are authors zo and Silvano Zeni (with a of a number of wood sculp- store also in Fiera di Primie- tures portraying religious ro). Artelèr is located in the figures, such as the sculp- very heart of the histori- ture of Sant’Antonio at the cal centre and lies on the aedicula in piazza San Marco path of guided tours of Mez- in Transacqua. Their works zano Romantica. Here, visi- have also reached beyond tors can admire the various national boundaries: one, for stages of the weaving pro- instance, can be seen at the cess, the tools of the trade, entrance of the Euro-tunnel, the finished products in lin- a rock climber four metres en, cotton, wool and silk, em- high in Cologne, and other bellished with artistic finish- sculptures in Austria, Canada es such as crochet and net- and North and South Amer- ting. The shop sells a range ica. The children carry on the of home textiles like car- family trade... in their own pets, towels, aprons, fab- way: Matteo and Gianluigi rics for jackets and shirts, Zeni sculpt chocolate and table linens, curtains and cheese creations, while Car- scarves. The Zeni brothers men Bonat designs creative have been wood sculptors dresses with fabrics woven for almost thirty years. Ren- by her mother and aunt at zo prefers miniatures and Artelèr. Both workshops are precision work, while Silva- members of the Consor- no is more skilled at chisel- tium for artistic craftsman- ling larger sculptures. A per- ship and quality of Trentino, fect synergy that gives life a guarantee of the originality to wood sculptures of sa- and typicality of their artistic cred and common art of all creations.
sanmartino.com 71 HISTORY A HINT OF HISTORY
The earliest historical re- moted activities such as min- cords about Valle di Primiero ing and the extraction of from shortly after 1000 AD metals, including silver, iron and show that at that time and copper, employing large- it belonged to the church ly German-speaking work- of Feltre. However, it is be- ers. For a couple of centu- lieved that the first settle- ries, Primiero became one ments date back at least six of the most important and centuries earlier. In fact, dur- productive mining basins of ing the restoration of the the House of Austria. Dur- archpriestal church of Fiera, ing this time, the village of Fi- the builders uncovered the era developed into the main foundations of some older marketplace of the area, churches, the first of which the centre of a bilingual cul- could be traced to the 5th- ture. During the Napoleon- 6th century AD. Their meas- ic wars, the valley passed un- urements were slightly small- der Bavarian rule, to be then er than the current building, reunited to the Austrian ter- witnessing to the fact that, al- ritories. After the Congress ready then, there was a rel- of Vienna, it was annexed to atively stable and large com- Trentino and finally became munity in the valley. part of the Italian reign with After a series of histori- the end of World War I, in cal events, in 1373 Primiero 1918. The special autonomy became part of the Tyrole- enjoyed by the Trentino-Al- an-Habsburgian Empire and, to Adige region was decreed on March 22, 1401, Duke by the De Gasperi-Gruber Leopold, count of Tyrol, be- Agreement following World stowed Valle di Primiero to War II, and in 1972 the re- George Welsperg from Val gion has been divided, ad- Pusteria as a perpetual fief- ministratively and political- dom, for the price of 4000 ly, into the two autonomous gold florins. Under their do- provinces of Trento and minion, the Welsperg pro- Bolzano.
sanmartino.com 73 HISTORY
THE HISTORY OF SAN MARTINO
Alpe di Castrozza is the lers were English: hikers, ge- name we find in the oldest ologists and botanists were documents that mention this the first to arrive here, fasci- secluded pasture at the foot nated by the beauty of the of the Dolomite peaks. Cas- Dolomites, in turn followed trozza most probably means by intrepid climbers who fenced area to protect the competed in conquering the town from grazing animals. yet uncontaminated moun- A Hospice was later erect- tain summits. The many ac- ed at the hands of a spon- counts of such journeys con- taneous religious communi- tributed to sparking an inter- ty, which lived according to est in this territory, and San Benedictine rule. Documen- Martino di Castrozza soon tary sources testify that became a favourite desti- the Ospizio di Castroz- nation on the international za offered assistance and tourist scene. hospitality to pilgrims, trav- The first luxury hotels ellers and tradesmen during for the wealthy bourgeoi- the upper middle ages. The sie of Central Europe were monks mysteriously disap- built. With the outbreak of peared from San Martino di World War I, San Martino, Castrozza in the mid-1400s, belonging with Primiero to and the Monastery was re- the Austro-Hungarian Em- placed by a simple benefice pire, was set on fire by the without the duty of counsel- retreating Austrian troops, ling lost souls, but still offer- but was rebuilt in the ear- ing hospitality to wayfarers. ly years after the war. Af- In the wake of the 18th-cen- ter becoming a part of Italy, tury Grand Tour undertaken the town was chosen as the to discover classic Italy, the key site for winter sporting 1900s witnessed – at the events and a privileged ven- acme of Romanticism - the ue of the sports competi- spread of small or Alpine tions of the Fascist period. tours. The first daring travel- The first primitive ski lift was
74 sanmartino.com HISTORY
the Slittovia del Panzer, built in ta cable car was complet- 1936, which carried skiers to ed in 1957. In the years that Alpe Tognola. In the 1950s, followed, the town contin- the first ski lifts and -chair ued to be the ideal summer lifts were built, including the and winter tourist destina- legendary chairlift Segantini tion, and experienced a re- and the connection to Pas- al boom between the 1960s so Rolle. The daring Roset- and 1980s.
sanmartino.com 75 HISTORY
NOTABLE MOUNTAINEERS
In 1861, British travellers (who in 1920 was the first Gilbert and Churchill pub- with Erwin Merlet to climb lished their guide The Dolo- Spigolo del Velo), Hermann mite Mountains, which whet- Buhl and Ettore Castiglio- ted the curiosity of climbers ni (who in 1934 climbed an such as Leslie Stephen, one impressive thirty new routes of the founders of the Al- on the Pale and reached the pine Club of London, Edward sixth rank on the South- Whitwell, who will conquer east edge of Sass Maor). In Cimon della Pala in 1870, the 1960s, Reinhold Mess- and other illustrious names ner and Dino Buzzati were such as King Leopold of Bel- among the valiant men to gium. The British then passed climb these mountains, while the baton to others, includ- the 1970s are Manolo‘s ing Norman Neruda, Georg years, who paved the way to Winkler, and Gunther Langes new frontiers in climbing.
THE FIRST HOTELS The English traveler Amelia B. Edwards, arriving in 1872 at San Martino di Castrozza, was unpleasantly surprised: “…part of the big building, all dirty and in ruins, all that re- mains of the old monastery, is used as a malga, and anoth- er part of it has been turned into an inn”. There was an at- mosphere of neglect and decay in every corner of the old priory. But only two years later, next to the run down hostel the comfortable Albergo Alpino had been built and within a few years the new Hotel des Dolomites could ac- commodate even the most difficult guests, members of the aristocracy and the middle European bourgeoisie.
76 sanmartino.com HISTORY
sanmartino.com 77 GASTRONOMY MOUTH-WATERING TREATS
The whole territory seems iero, including Nostrano and to beckon tourists to come Tosèla, the Carne fumada discover it, and one holiday (smoked meat) of Siror, the won’t be enough to satisfy local sausages, and fantastic you, as the many guests re- desserts with ricotta cheese, turning to our valleys every tasty berries, jams and local year proves. Have you ev- honey. Food is a feast, which er thought about how many is why we organise sever- experiences you can enjoy al gastronomic events in the by combining physical activ- summer, where the stars ity – or pure leisure – with are the culinary reinterpre- good food? Try and find out tations of traditional dishes for yourselves. There are with a modern touch: two mountain huts along the ex- above all, the Knödel Fes- cursion trails, at high altitude tival in Imèr and the Brise and on the ski slopes, typical Festival (devoted to porcini restaurants and dairy huts, mushroom) in Vanoi, both in inns offering snacks with an September. We will let you assortment of our most be- discover all the others for loved products. All of them yourselves, because gastron- offer (and in a variety of omy, too, is a part of our cul- combinations) the cheese ture we are proud to share of the cheese dairy of Prim- with our guests.
The cheese diary of Primiero offers now also an e-shop: caseificioprimiero.com
sanmartino.com 79 GASTRONOMY
80 sanmartino.com A TOUR OF THE DAIRY HUTS
Our typical products are the a good Trentino wine beau- fruit of the land and of the tifully exalts their taste. The age-old devotion of the lo- home-made desserts are al- cals to their traditions, a ways a refreshing surprise, masterful blend – thanks to but before finishing out our the historical role of middle meal, let us not forget that in ground between Italy and a mountain hut, the Prince is German-speaking countries the cheese, and Primiero has – of Venetian and Tyrolean a long cheese-making tradi- delicacies. Here you can truly tion. Today more than ever, taste the rich simplicity of a the trend is to pair cheese full-bodied and savoury cui- and honey with fruit com- sine, with dishes of steaming potes or mustards: simply polenta and Tosèla, or “cos- impossible to resist! Touring tesine and luganeghe” (spare the dairy huts implies going ribs and sausage) served on foot, because they are all with sauerkraut or mush- nestled in breathtaking sur- rooms. The soups too, are roundings, in a perfect un- a popular meal, especially ion between human activi- the barley soup, and mush- ties and environmental pres- rooms are a versatile ingre- ervation, a bit like the farm- dient used to prepare deli- house inns scattered on the cious creams. The starters territory, which offer a va- made of gnocchi or Knödel riety of local, freshly picked always delight the palate, and produce.
THE DOLOMITES CHEESE ROUTE The Dolomites cheese route crosses the valleys of Prim- iero, Fiemme and Fassa. Its seventy members adhere to strict quality standards and undertake to produce dairy and other niche products that are first and foremost lo- cal. Our territory is identified through theTosèla cheese.
sanmartino.com 81 GASTRONOMY
EXCELLENCE
Tosèla is a typical dairy prod- tasting it on a nice slice of uct served fresh and sliced, old bread, with local hon- fried in butter: how good ey? Sausage lovers should that delicious, red crispy try the Cauriota Lucanica crust that forms around the sausage, produced with skil- soft and tasty cheese! But fully spiced pork and per- tosèla can also be enjoyed fect both as an appetizer or raw, dressed with oil, salt full-bodied main course. It and balsamic vinegar, sliced can be enjoyed sliced, fresh or diced as finger food. The and seasoned, or grilled, Nostrano di Primiero is the or even cooked in tomato excellence of our cheese sauce with a side dish of sau- and has won several impor- erkraut. The Smoked meat tant awards. Fresh, half-sea- of Siror has won a promi- soned or aged; the one pro- nent place among the tradi- duced with dairy-hut milk is tional dishes and goes nice- especially sought after, be- ly sliced and eaten “raw”, or cause it has the richer col- dressed with oil and lemon. our and taste of when the It’s such a fashionable meat cows are fed out to pas- that some people even put ture and enjoy a myriad of it on pizza. fresh and fragrant herbs. The Nowadays, even honey Botìro di Primiero di Malga is and berries are counted as a fine butter of limited pro- typical products for their au- duction, a Slow Food Pre- thenticity and quality. Bees sidium. It is made from raw can gather nectar in pris- cream, naturally surfaced in tine meadows and the tra- the dairy hut, and processed ditional bee-hiving and hon- by the cheese dairy of Prim- ey extraction techniques iero; it carries on the tradi- applied guarantee the qual- tion dating back to the time ity of our mountain honey: of the Serenissima Republic, the particularly sweet multi- when it was the finest butter flower variety, the precious sold in Venice. How about single-flower rhododendron
82 sanmartino.com variety and the honeydew. you can enjoy them au na- Small fruits have an ideal turel or with fresh whipped climate in Primiero and Va- cream. In recent years, some noi to grow into tasty treats. companies have started cul- Many are now the green- tivating these tasty products, houses that produce rasp- which are also processed in- berries, blueberries, black- to jams and juices. The pro- berries, strawberries and duction of an excellent arti- redcurrants. Given their san beer, Primiero BioNoc’, is sweetness and freshness, also rapidly taking foot.
sanmartino.com 83 THE SURROUNDINGS MART & MUSE
You can’t leave Trentino gym to discover the princi- without visiting at least one ples of physics and mechan- of its important museums, ics, and grapple with the some housed in castles, oth- construction of robots and ers dedicated to customs in the design and produc- and traditions, to war, to sa- tion of items with a 3D laser cred art, to typical products, printer. Mart, the Museum to the air force, to moun- of Modern and Contempo- tain women… We recom- rary Art of Trento and Rov- mend two, the brand new ereto has a consolidated tra- Muse, the Museum of Sci- dition and offers three ex- ence, and the Mart, the Mu- hibition venues: in Rovere- seum of contemporary art. to, the large architectur- The first, designed by Ren- al complex in Corso Bettini zo Piano, extends over 19 and the House of Futuristic thousand square metres and Art Depero, and the reno- on six floors in Trento. Inau- vated Civic Gallery in Trento, gurated in July 2013, it ca- with wide-ranging displays. ters to youngsters and fam- The head office of the Mart, ilies: it hosts the most thor- designed by the starchitect ough dinosaur exhibition of Mario Botta, is conceived the Alpine region and fea- to be a “cultural hub” rather tures a multi-sensory space than a traditional museum. of 200 square metres dedi- It includes a public library, a cated to children, the Maxi- large auditorium and a caf- Ohh!. Adults, instead, can try eteria, all overlooking a large out scientific experiments in central square, a modern ag- the “hands-on” section. This ora covered by an impressive museum is a sort of science glass and steel dome.
sanmartino.com 85 THE SURROUNDINGS TOUR OF THE DOLOMITES
Those who want to explore pezzo, crossing Passo Falza- other parts of the Dolomites rego, where Coppi outran are in for a unique experi- Bartali in 1946. Cortina cer- ence: the views you can en- tainly needs no introduction, joy from the Alpine passes and a walk along the main av- will remain forever etched in enue is always an attraction. your memory. For instance, You can choose between a if the weather looks nice, lunch in a starred restaurant you can head to Val di Fassa, or a picnic on the banks of climbing up Passo Rolle and the Misurina lake, the image making a turn toward Pas- of the Tre Cime di Lavare- so Valles and Passo San Pel- do reflected in its waters. legrino, to arrive in Moena. If you want to have an es- From Canazei, you will reach presso, we recommend Bru- the Pordoi Pass, climbing the nico, in the heart of Val Pus- twenty-eight hairpin turns teria, with its ancient access that seem to have been made doors and picturesque paint- for the sheer joy of cyclists. ed houses, where you can Up there, even if you don’t sense a distinctly Nordic flair. take the cable car, the eye will On our way back to Primiero, gaze across Sassolungo, Sella we will pass through Val Ba- and Marmolada. We are on dia and the centre of La Vil- the border between Tren- la, site of the famous World tino and Veneto, where the Cup slalom on the Gran Ri- history of the great war has sa ski slope in winter. Cross- been written, as evidenced ing Corvara and the nearby by the Ossuary of the fallen, Passo Campolongo, we ar- but also the site of memo- rive in Arabba, then continue rable sporting feats, like the along the Agordo valley, skirt- Giro d’Italia, as reminded by ing the Alleghe lake dominat- the monument dedicated to ed by Mount Civetta. Arrived Italian cyclist Fausto Coppi . in Agordo, we climb towards We then continue in the di- Sagron-Mis and Passo Cere- rection of Cortina d’Am- da, and are finally home.
sanmartino.com 87 THE SURROUNDINGS
88 sanmartino.com ARTE SELLA AND VALSUGANA LAKES
Arte Sella is an interna- meant to exist, grow and die tional outdoor exhibi- in such beautiful surround- tion of contemporary art ings since 1986. At the end set up in 1986 in the fields of the ArteNatura route, and woods of the Sella Val- a path takes visitors to the ley in Valsugana (about 65 magnificent Tree Cathedral, km far from Primiero). The a monumental work created works are usually three-di- by the Italian artist Giuliano mensional and created us- Mauri in 2002. The near- ing stones, leaves, branch- by lakes of Levico (whose es and tree trunks. Man- shapes reminds of a Norwe- made objects, materials and gian fiord) and Caldonaz- colours are rarely used. All zo are popolar destinations. works are placed outdoor The lakesides host well-or- and can be admired while ganized lake resorts and enjoying the different types free-access beaches. of woods, stones and mon- You can enjoy swim- umental trees in the sur- ming, sailing, windsurfing, wa- roundings, the artworks are ter skiing, canoeing and row- left to decay thus becoming ing, Dragon Boat and an- again part of nature’s life cy- gling. You can also walk many cle. paths along the lakesides, The main exhibition ar- deep in the green, such as ea is ArteNatura route, an the beautiful Via dei Pesca- art route on a mountain tori. Lake Levico has been path: visitors will enjoy the awarded a «Blue Flag» 2014, discovery of living woods, an acknowledgement of the the scent of mossy stones quality of the bathing water and the view of monumen- and the facilities provided on tal trees perfectly combining the beaches, in the resorts with works of art which are and in the nearby town.
sanmartino.com 89 THE SURROUNDINGS
90 sanmartino.com VENICE “THE BEAUTIFUL”
Venice is an enchanted city; the secondary streets. And everyone has heard of the if you wish to discover local beauty of Venice, but maybe life, we recommend stop- some of us have not visited it ping by at the taverns and yet. But even for those who inns where true Venetians also know many of its treas- like to meet for a cocktail ures, visiting it again will be at the counter: the bacari, as exciting as the first time. where you can sip on a spritz So why not take advantage or ombreta (wine glass) and of the opportunity, seeing it snack on cicheti, the ances- is little more than two hours tors of finger food, includ- away? You can even get ing Venetian-style meatballs, there by bus. If you choose fried anchovies, sardines in to drive, you can park at saor, herring, cuttlefish, oc- Tronchetto – comfortable topus. Or if you prefer, head but a bit pricey - and then straight for Piazza San Mar- take the people mover, a fu- co with its basilica, symbol turistic, automatic land ca- of the maritime and com- ble car, to arrive straight in mercial power of the Se- the middle of Piazzale Roma. renissima Republic, climb After crossing the Calatrava to the top of the Bell Tow- bridge, you will start breath- er to enjoy the view over ing in the romantic Vene- the city and the lagoon and tian air. One day won’t be then run through the six dis- enough to see everything, tricts of Venice, from Castel- but one of the biggest pleas- lo to Cannaregio, from San ures is to wander into the Polo to Santa Croce, from maze of calli and campiel- Dorsoduro to Giudecca. Oh, li, up and down the bridges and don’t forget to stop at across the channels. the Doge’s Palace, the Fen- You will discover count- ice theatre, the Rialto Bridge less suggestive and charming and to take a ride on a gon- corners as you walk down dola or ferry-boat.
sanmartino.com 91 THE SURROUNDINGS
GEMS OF VENETO
There are many interesting ping the famous grappa in destinations if you would like one of the many taverns. to spend a day exploring the Not far is Marostica, a forti- nearby Veneto region. Fel- fied town that is famous for tre with its small centre of- its chess square. And why fers a number of sight-see- not choose Padua, a modern ing attractions: from St. Pe- city but with the spectacu- ter’s Cathedral with the bap- lar Scrovegni Chapel, which tistery to the city walls and treasures 14th century fres- up to Piazza Maggiore for coes by Giotto? The centre a visit to the church of San of Treviso is a work of art Rocco and the ruins of King in itself, but also an attraction Alboin’s castle with its fif- for shoppers, with a host of teenth-century fountain. elegant and refined stores. And then Palazzo della Ra- Surrounded by the city walls gione, Sala degli Stemmi and and still well preserved and the Teatro della Sena, a min- crossed by three canals, it iature Fenice where Goldoni exudes a special charm. Or staged his first plays, the Gal- you may undertake a boat lery of Modern Art Carlo trip along the Brenta river Rizzarda with the Museum (Riviera del Brenta) up to Vi- of Wrought Iron, the Civic cenza, to discover the villas Museum, the historic palaz- and buildings designed by ar- zi. Worth visiting is also Bas- chitect Palladio, .... Or even sano del Grappa, with the visit Verona, with its Roman Ceramics Museum and Pon- arena and the vibrant ech- te Vecchio, better known as oes of Romeo and Juliet’s the Ponte degli Alpini, sip- passionate love story.
92 sanmartino.com sanmartino.com 93 USEFUL INFORMATION
USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS
Nature Park Villa Welsperg, Casa del Parco Paneveggio [email protected] Pale di San Martino parcopan.org +39 0439 765973
Ecomuseo del Vanoi Casa dell’Ecomuseo [email protected] ecomuseo.vanoi.it +39 0439 719106
Lift ticket office San Martino di Castrozza [email protected] +39 0439 68505
San Martino Tognola Bike Arena [email protected] sanmartinobikearena.com +39 0439 68026
Skiing by night Colverde-Rosetta [email protected] impiantices.it +39 0439 68204
Agility Forest [email protected] Adventure Park agilityforest.it +39 389 9979479 (Franco) +39 333 6745135 (Marco)
Primiero cheese dairy [email protected] caseificioprimiero.com +39 0439 765616
94 sanmartino.com USEFUL INFORMATION
SERVICES
Ski school [email protected] San Martino di Castrozza scuolascisanmartino.it +39 0439 68182
Ski school Dolomiti [email protected] scuolasci-dolomiti.it +39 0439 769251 +39 347 1825232
Alpine Guides Scuola di Alpinismo e Scialpinismo Aquile di San Martino [email protected] aquilesanmartino.com +39 0439 768795 +39 342 9813212
Lagorai Bike School [email protected] primierobike.com +39 345 2312850
FLY SKI SHUTTLE During the ski season, the Fly Ski Shuttle links our re- sorts to Venice, Treviso, Verona and Bergamo airports. This convenient bus transfer shortens the distances by taking national and international guests directly from the airport to the ski pistes. More info at flyskishuttle.com.
sanmartino.com 95
IL 26/12/2014, IL 02/01/2015 E IL 06/04/2015 SARANNO EFFETTUATE LE CORSE SPECIALI
ON THE 26/12/2014, 02/01/2015 AND 06/04/2015 THE SERVICE WILL MAKE SPECIAL RUNS GUIDE TO THE TERRITORY Ideation and Coordination: Azienda per il Turismo San martino di Castrozza, Passo Rolle, Primiero e Vanoi Text: Manuela Crepaz Drawing: Narciso Simion Maps: Nicola Degiampietro Photos: Marco e Alessandro Trovati, Tommaso Forin, Marcello Soffiati, Lucio Tonina, Chiesa, Silvano Angelani, P. La Croix, Ralf Gantzhorn, Alessandro Simon, Luca Merisio, Blog “Viachesiva”, Archivio Trentino Sviluppo SpA, Archivio Parco Naturale Paneveggio Pale di San Martino, Archivio ApT S.Mart, Pietro Celesia per King of Dolomites, Will Beckers_Echo_Copyright Arte Sella ph Giacomo Bianchi, commons.wikimedia.org, Alberto Peroli per Slow Food, Alberto Tisot, archivio Ecomuseo del Vanoi, Carlo Bazan, Ralph Glaser, San Martino Bike Arena, Pro Loco Sagron Mis, Nicolò Miana
Azienda per il Turismo San Martino di Castrozza Passo Rolle, Primiero e Vanoi
San Martino di Castrozza Via Passo Rolle, 165 38054 San Martino di Castrozza Tel. 0439 768867 - Fax 0439 768814 [email protected]
Fiera di Primiero Via Dante, 6 38054 Fiera di Primiero Tel. 0439 62407 - Fax 0439 62992 [email protected]
Vanoi Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, 6 38050 Canal San Bovo Tel. 0439 719041 - Fax 0439 308114 [email protected] sanmartino.com
COMUNITÀ DI PRIMIERO Provincia Autonoma di Trento