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Historical Tasting Degustazione storica Caè e metodi di estrazione dal 1900 a oggi HistoricalD egustazion e tastingS torica CoffeeVivere landa s theto riextractiona methodsdell’espre fromsso the ‘900 to thein pri presentma per day.sona 1 Sedicesimo Milani - 3.indd 1 03/10/2017 11:15:43 INTRODUCTION INTRODUZIONE How many opportunities have you had in your life to sip Quantea cup of possibilitàcoffee like theavete one avuto your great-grandparentsnella vostra vita did? di sorseggiarePerhaps none, un because caffè preparationcome quello methods dei vostri have bisavochanged- li?to Forsesuch an nessuna, extent that perché Italian i metodiEspresso, di while preparazione having inheri si- sonoted the modificati genetic code, a tal has punto an extremely che l’Espresso different Italiano, appearance pur avendonefrom the one ereditato people wereil codice drinking genetico, at the beginningha un aspetto of the estremamentelast century. diverso da quello che si beveva all’ini- zio del secolo scorso. PerTo fullycomprendere understand comehow we si haveè giunti reached alla tazzinathe point ornata of ha- diving una a coffeecrema cup color ornated nocciola with con a hazel-colored riflessi fulvi, cream un corpo with importantea reflection eof avvolgente, reddish brown un color,aroma a solidintenso body, che an copreintense l’interoaroma that arco covers olfattivo, the entire Caffè olfactory Milani spectrum, ha estratto Caffè Milanidalla propriaselected esposizionefrom it’s own macchineexhibition three di tre machines epoche from diverse, diffe- rappresentativerent periods, representing di tre cambiamenti three basic changes, basilari, restored le ha andri- got them to work again, and studied the blends that were messe in funzione e ha studiato le miscele che con most likely used. buona probabilità venivano usate. Poi,Soon utilizzando after, using a un group gruppo of tasters di assaggiatori at the International dell’Istituto Coffee InternazionaleTasting Institute Assaggiatoriand by using the Caffè statistical e i metodi methods statistici of the delTasting Centro Research Studi Center, Assaggiatori it has maneged le ha profilate. to profile all the Oggiblends.. è quindi in grado di offrire al consumatore at- tento, al barista e allo studioso un percorso esperien- zialeTherefore unico today nel Caffèsuo genere,Milani is partendoable to offer dal its 1920consumer, per giungerebartender all’Espressoor scholar a Italianounique experiential attuale. journey, starting from the 1900s to the current Italian Espresso. CAFFÈ MILANI CAFFÈ MILANI Caffè Milani nasce nel 1937 ed è oggi una delle torre- Caffè Milani was founded in 1937 and today it is one of the fazionileading leader.roasting Nelfactories 1998 inè Italy.socio In fondatore1998 it was dell’Istituto one of the Nazionalefounding partners Espresso of theItaliano Italian e Espresso nel 2017, National in occasione Institute deiand suoiin 2017, 80 foranni, the inaugura occasion ofun’esposizione its 80th anniversary, sul caffè it is ce e- lalebrating sua storia the openingdi raro ofinteresse a new exhibition culturale. about the world of [email protected] and also about its own private history of rare cultural IIACinterest. L’[email protected] Internazionale Assaggiatori Caffè (Iiac) è stato fondato nel 1993, vanta oggi oltre 10.500 allievi residenti in 40 paesi del mondo e i suoi manuali sono IIAC stati pubblicati in 11 lingue. The International Coffee Tasting Institute (Iiac) was founded [email protected] in 1993, boasts today over 10,500 students originally from 40 Ricercadifferent ecountries testi di aroundLuigi Odello, the world grafica and itsdi manualsLaura Mor,have realizzazionebeen published del in 11 Centro languages. Studi Assaggiatori. [email protected] Edizione: ottobre 2017. 2 Sedicesimo Milani - 3.indd 2 03/10/2017 11:15:47 THREE CENTURIES OF RESEARCH TREFOR SECOLI A QUICK, ALLA STRONG RICERCA AND PLEASANTDI UN CAFFÈ COFFEE RAPIDO, POTENTE E PIACEVOLE At the end of the 19th century coffee had become a part Alof tramontothe daily activity del XIX in secolothe western il caffè world c’era for ed at era least entrato three nellecenturies. abitudini During degli this timeframe, occidentali many almeno systems da and tre methods secoli. Durantehad been questodeveloped lasso in order temporale to prepare si it.erano In fact, sviluppati for at least molti300 years, sistemi the worldper farlo. of coffee In pratica, worked hardper almenoto fulfill thetre threese- coli,basic il needsmondo which del caffèare strongly lavorò linkedsodo pertogether: soddisfare quickness, tre strength, and pleasure. A goal that was only reached in the necessità tra loro fortemente connesse: rapidità, for- last century with the birth of the Espresso. za, piacere. Obiettivo che raggiunse solo nel secolo scorso con la nascita dell’espresso. QUICKNESS LA RAPIDITÀ Boil the coffee powder at least three times or wait patiently Farfor bollirethe gravity la polvere force to diallow caffè the almeno hot water tre tovolte seep o throughaspet- tarea layer pazientemente of coffee making che the la drink forza free di gravitàof grinds. consentisse This was the all’acquachallange whichcalda divideddi attraversare coffee lovers uno all strato through di caffèthe ninete ren-- dendoenth century. la bevanda The italic priva genius di fondi?provided Era the questo solution: dilemma applying chepressure divise to per hot tutto water, il firstXIX secolothrough gli steam, amanti then del with caffè. com - L’italicopressed air,ingegno first using fornì a springla soluzione: and finally l’applicazione with a pump. del- la pressione all’acqua bollente, dapprima attraverso ilThe vapore, result? poiTwenty-five con l’aria milliliters compressa, of pleasant quindi and syrupycon una cof- mollafee in onlye infine 25 seconds. con una pompa. Il risultato? Venticinque millilitri di caffè soave e sci- ropposoSTRENGTH in 25 secondi. Strength was – and still is - measured by the intensity of the LAaroma FORZA and tactile consistency (the body, or syrupy texture, Lawhatever forza youera wish- ed to è call- valutatait). The evolution attraverso of the l’intensità espresso technique led to achieving an unprecedented strength, redu- dell’aroma e la consistenza tattile (il corpo, o scirop- cing the required coffee dose to half or even less. posità che dir si voglia). L’evoluzione della tecnica espressoHEDONISM portò a ottenere una forza mai raggiunta primaSmall and riducendo cuddling sipsla dose that carrydi caffè the aromanecessaria within alla the metàcoffee ofor anche a long a periodmeno. of time. It seemed to be an unreachable goal, but the Espresso made it possible, not only through the L’EDONISMOmechanical evolution of the preparation systems but also Piccolithrough sorsi the artcarezzevoli of creating che blends recano by choosing per lungo the tempobest of l’aromawhat the contenutotropics all over in the un world caffè: had pareva to offer. una meta irraggiungibile, ma l’espresso lo rese possibile, non solo attraverso l’evoluzione meccanica dei sistemi di preparazione, ma anche all’arte di comporre miscele scegliendo il meglio di quanto offrivano i tropici di tutto il mondo. 3 Sedicesimo Milani - 3.indd 3 03/10/2017 11:15:49 THE VARIATION OF TASTE LE TLEAPPE TAPPE SIGNIFI SIGNIFICCAATIVEE, , LA VLAARI VARIAZIONEAZIONE D DEELL GUSGUSTTOO 9 9 8 8 7 7 6 uick 5 6 Strong 4 uick 5 3 Pleasant 4 Strong 1850 1875 1900 1925 1950 1975 2000 3 Pleasant 1850 1875 1900 1925 1950 1975 2000 PRT–ESPRESS TRANSITIN ITALIAN ESPRESS 9 8 PRT–ESPRESS TRANSITIN ITALIAN ESPRESS 7 6 9 5 4 8 3 7 2 6 1 5 0 Colour lfactive Acidity Astringency Vegetable Roasted Biochemical 4 intensity intensity Texture Body Bitterness Flowers/fresh Dried Spicy 3 fruit fruits 2 1 Sedicesimo Milani - 3.indd 4 03/10/2017 11:15:53 0 Colour lfactive Acidity Astringency Vegetable Roasted Biochemical intensity intensity Texture Body Bitterness Flowers/fresh Dried Spicy fruit fruits 4 Sedicesimo Milani - 3.indd 4 03/10/2017 11:15:53 THE EVOLUTION OF THE ROASTING PROCESS L’EVOLUZIONE DELLA TOSTATURA Humanity discovered that fire does not only affect the hy- Lagienic scoperta characteristics da parte of dell’umanitàfood, but also theche sensory il fuoco aspects non ha by solamenteincreasing the effetto pleasure, sulle soon caratteristiche enough this igienichediscovery degliwould alimenti,affect also ma the anche coffee suconsumption quelle sensoriali methods aumentandothat had evol- ilved piacere, from boilingcoinvolse drupes ben in prestowater to anche the infusion il consumo of the delwell caffèroasted che grains. passò Until dalla the bollituraend of the delle 19th drupecentury, all’infusio the roasting- neprocess dei semi was madesapientemente by conduction tostati. method, Fino for alla example, fine del by XIXsupplying secolo heat la tostaturathrough materials avveniva like però iron etc.a conduzione, The goal was valeachieved, a dire but fornendo frequently il the calore aroma attraverso was altered un by materiale empyreu- comematic ilodors ferro. and L’obiettivo the taste venivawas damaged raggiunto, by the ma unpleasant non di radocontrasts l’aroma between era alteratobitter and da acid. sentori The use empireumatici of steel spheres e ilthat gusto rotate pregiudicato on a heat source,da poco most piacevoli often made contrasti of wood, tra amaroimproved e acido. the result L’utilizzo of roasting di sfere for dia acciaiogreater homogeneity,che ruota- vanobut the su trueuna leapfonte of diquality calore, took il piùplace delle after volteWorld fornito War II, dawith
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