India -The Western Ghats 2011 – Jon Hall
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India -The Western Ghats 2011 – Jon Hall The Western Ghats I'd been to the centre, west and east of India but never to the south, which has a set of nice endemic species including Lion-tailed Macaques and Nilgiri Tahrs. So the Western Ghats was an obvious choice of destination when I was planning how to spend my 3 months long service leave at the end of 2011 (long service leave is one of the Australian public service's finest contributions to modern civilization). I organised this trip, again, with with Anil at North West Safaris, who had arranged my 2007 trip through Gujurat and 2008 trip in Assam. As always Anil did a great job choosing the best itinerary, finding wildlife-friendly places to say and in particular using his network to arrange for Sasi to accompany me (see the Kerala intro below). Ramesh Nair from Explore helped with the local bookings too. This was my favourite trip to India to date. Kerala is beautiful and while the towns are still chaotically Indian, its a little bit less frenetic than other parts of the country. The food was spectacular and, compared to the other places I have visited here, the parks were more relaxed and better set up for a naturalist wanting to look for things other than just Tigers and Elephants (though I am sure Sasi's presence helped with this too). Mumbai Mumbai is probably not the best gateway to Kerala, but I wanted to visit two sets of caves - Elephanta and Kanheri - that are close to the city. These caves are well know tourist sites (they both comprise a set of temples) but are also known roosts for several species of bats I wanted to see. Vivek Menon's Field Guide to Indian Mammals recommends Elephanta Caves as the easiest place to see both Schneider's and Fulvous Leaf-nosed Bats, and Kanheri as the best place for Fulvous Fruit Bats and Greater False Vampires. Elephanta Caves are a world heritage site and tourist boats start chugging out there each morning at 9am from in front of the Gate of India. It ought to take about an hour to get there though it took us 90 minutes on the way out, mainly because the skipper couldn't steer in a straight line. There are at least 5 caves on the island, all next to each other along the main path through the heritage site. The first cave has the most tourist activity. I saw two clusters of Asiatic Greater Yellow House Bats in here, both in sink holes in the roof. Asiatic Greater Yellow House Bats There was also a mixed colony of both Schneider's and my first Fulvous Roundleaf Bats above the main statue at the back of the cave (I managed to miss these first time I entered the cave somehow. And it was difficult to work out that there were in fact two separate species other than from examining the nose leaves in the photos: speoris has 3 supplementary leaflets, fulvus has none). They were a bit too high up for decent photographs plus there was a perpetual queue of tourists wanting to be photographed in front of the statue too which limited photographic time. Schneider's Roundleaf Bat Fulvous Leaf-nosed Bat I couldn't find any bats in the smaller Nos 2, 3 and 4 caves, but in the 5th cave, in a low small chamber on the left hand side as you enter, were a group of my first Greater False Vampire Bats. A great species. Greater False Vampire I didn't explore the rest of the island. Indeed I am not sure its easy or even permitted to explore it and everything is pretty much set up around the 5 caves. Bonnet Macaques are very common and hang around the caves looking for handouts and causing trouble. Bonnet Macaque I headed back to Mumbai on the first boat at 12.30 (two hours or so on the island is just about enough time to look in all the caves reasonably well). Kanheri Caves The journey back was quicker (and straighter) and we drove straight to the Sanjay Gandhi National Park, an hour or so away. This is part national park, part safari park and also home to the Kanheri Caves. It was particularly hot and humid around the caves. And when I discovered there are 109 caves I decided to take a local guide who claimed to have seen bats in a few of the caves and knew which ones. So we wandered from cave to cave, probably visiting about half of them. Most of the 'caves' are small chambers cut into the cliff face and very similar in size and layout. Cave No. 1 stank of bats but I couldn't see or hear any. I'm not sure if it is a night roost, or a seasonal thing or that there were in fact bats in the upper chamber which I couldn't see into. The upper chamber is about 10 metres above the cave floor. Now I could have climbed a makeshift ladder to have a look. It had been left there by the locals, and was just two pieces of bamboo lashed together with various twigs sticking off that served as rungs. After several near death moments in Asian bat caves I decided not to risk climbing up and then immediately regretted how unadventurous I had become. I consoled myself with the thought that Fulvous Fruit Bats were using the cave from time to time but I would have heard them if they had been in there. Black-throated Tomb Bat In Cave No. 3 - which is more of a temple - there were a few very flighty Tomb Bats above the corridor around the perimeter. I saw at least one Black-throated Tomb Bats Taphozous melanopogon (which have been recorded here before according to this very useful report on the status of all South Asia's bats) but they may possibly have also been some T. longimanus but I couldn't get a good look or photo at all of them. I didn't see sigh nor sound of bats in any of the other 40 or so caves I wandered around. So Kanheri was a little disappointing and perhaps there are more animals there at different times of the year. A guide I was chatting too at Elephanta said there were lots of bats in Kanheri, so many in fact she'd been scared when she visited, so it might be worth visiting at a different time of year. In the forest around the caves we saw many Bonnet Macaques, a few Rhesus Macaques, a Southern Plains Grey Langur and a brief flash of a striped squirrel that I think was a Jungle- Striped Squirrel (Funambulus tristriatus). Back in Mumbai I saw a roost of Indian Flying Foxes and many more flying around the city at dusk. Some smaller Fruit Bats were feeding near Homian Circle Gardens. I saw them flying from the trees while we were stuck in traffic so didn't get a good look but they were smaller than Flying Foxes but too big to be anything but Fulvous Fruit Bats (Leschenault's Rousette) I believe. Indian Flying Fox Kerala Its a 2 hour flight from Mumbai to Kochi and the landscape coming into land is as lush as anything I've seen. I was met at the airport by a driver and Sasindra Babu, a conservation campaigner who had taken leave from his job in the Kerala Forest and Wildlife Department to join me after Anil had contacted him. Sasi coordinates eco tourism and development activity in the Parambikulam Tiger Reserve and has campaigned to involve the local community in conservation and ensure they see some rewards. It appears to have worked. If you would like to visit Kerala you could contact Sasi to see if he could help. He's a great guide, fixer and companion. Thatekkad Bird Sanctuary Two hours later we were at the pleasant Soma Bird Lagoon Hotel near the Thatekkad Bird Sanctuary. The hotel was nice but the area was quite disturbed: the small sanctuary was set up primarily to protect Ceylon Frogmouths. We headed to the sanctuary for a late afternoon/night walk, all of which required special permission of course, in true Indian style. Sasi got the permission but by the time a local guide had arrived it was dark. We decided to focus on looking for Travancore Flying Squirrels which are apparently not so easy to find in the Western Ghats but were quite common in Thatekkad. We didn't see or hear anything inside the sanctuary so headed to the edge of a cocoa plantation nearby where we heard several calling - a mournful whistle - but couldn't see them. Other interesting species in the sanctuary include Malabar Spiny Dormice and Pangolins. The former can probably only be seen by trapping. The latter sometimes get stuck in nets that farmers put out to protect their fruit. Pampadum Shola and Top Station The next morning we set off on the slow 4 hour climb up to Top Station and Pampadum Shola National Park. There were a few Bonnet Macaques en route and lots of gorgeous scenery. After transferring to India's oldest Mahindra jeep we bumped up the last 8kms of track to spend the next two nights at the lovely Camp Noyal, a set of forest bungalows nestled at over 2000 metres amid tea plantations. It was something straight from the Raj.