SOUTHERN

FEBRUARY 16–MARCH 7, 2020

A shy and songful endemic, the White-bellied Sholakili © Max Breckenridge

LEADER: MAX BRECKENRIDGE LIST COMPILED BY: MAX BRECKENRIDGE

VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM

SOUTHERN INDIA February 16–March 7, 2020

By Max Breckenridge

Southern India is truly a delight. The local people are friendly and vibrant, the food is diverse and delicious, and, most important, the wildlife is remarkable and conspicuous! Our wonderful and easy- going group assembled in the central-southern metropolis of (Bengaluru). After settling in, it was soon time to head south, bidding the abundant Black Kites of Bangalore’s skyline farewell. After the modern hustle and bustle of the big city, we made a refreshing visit to the traditional village of Kokkare Bellur, about halfway between Bangalore and (Mysuru). The drawcards for this quaint town, which has remained largely unchanged for hundreds of years, are the plentiful Painted Storks and Spot- billed Pelicans that nest in large trees dotted between the small houses.

Before arriving in the princely city of Mysore, we enjoyed a stroll around Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace & Museum with its exquisite wood carvings and facades, as well as an extensive collection of artwork and weaponry.

The peculiar Great Thick-knee from Ranganathittu Sanctuary near Mysore © M Breckenridge.

The next morning we loaded into a rowboat for an intimate visit to the bustling waterbird rookery at Ranganathittu, north of Mysore, on the Cauvery River. Close looks were had at a variety of egrets, more storks and pelicans, plus Indian Cormorants, Eurasian Spoonbills, several pairs of the strange-looking Great Thick-knee, Streak-throated nesting, a striking Stork-billed Kingfisher, and several Mugger Crocodiles lounging. Bamboo along the river also held singing Tickell’s Blue-Flycatcher, Indian Gray Hornbill, a flock of White-rumped Munias, Oriental Magpie-Robin, and our first White-browed Wagtail.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Southern India, 2020 We arrived in time for lunch at our comfortable lodging on the outskirts of the expansive . That afternoon we enjoyed our first of six jeep safaris within the national park. It was to be an immersive experience over the following three days, with new surprises on each of our excursions into this park teeming with wildlife. We visited two different ‘zones’ when driving through the park. Our first drive was to ‘B zone’ in dominated by mature teak along the northern shoreline of the . Here, Black-footed Gray Langurs, (Spotted Deer), and Sambar enjoyed the fresh grass beside the river, and we found the adjoining forest teeming with .

Some of the we soon became familiar with included the stately Indian Peafowl, intricate Gray Junglefowl, Yellow-footed Green-Pigeon, incessant Common Hawk-Cuckoos, confiding Eurasian Hoopoe, Indian Roller, gorgeous Plum-headed Parakeet, Black-rumped Flamebacks and Streak-throated Woodpeckers, White-bellied and Greater Racket-tailed drongos, Cinereous Tit, boisterous flocks of Jungle Babblers, Red-vented and Red-whiskered , and several species of .

A rugged male that tolerated our close company for several minutes one morning in Nagarhole © M Breckenridge.

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We were starstruck by this stunning Tigress and her three cubs drinking and resting for over an hour in Nagarhole © M Breckenridge.

Our time in Nagarhole was highlighted by several special encounters with some of the forest’s most notable residents. Our first morning drive in the park involved a remarkable Leopard sighting. We spotted an in the distance disappearing into the forest, but some quick tapping on my shoulder from Martha soon alerted us to a big male Leopard lounging in the grass right next to us! After soaking up this gorgeous cat, which most people rarely see so close and not up a tree, we trundled along and soon found a playful pair of . These wild dogs are distinctive and seem very fox-like in appearance. The two we found frolicked next to our jeep without a care until we had our fill. We had decent views of a single adult the next morning at some distance and with many other jeeps around, but our final morning safari proved to be the most memorable. After driving slowly around the entrance to ‘A zone,’ a couple of alarm calls attracted our attention, and we raced over to a nearby that a Tiger was known to visit. We found nothing at the dam, so we drove a little further along and found a pair of lovely Hoopoes to admire. Driving back the same way, we all let out a gasp as we turned our heads right to peer over at the same dam—this time there was a Tiger. Without a word we settled in with the engine off and began soaking in this encounter. Soon two cubs, then a third, joined their mother at the water’s edge. It was an experience that will stay with us all forever, made all the more special by the fact that we were the only jeep present!

We switched things up a bit during our time at Nagarhole by embarking on a morning and afternoon boat trip along the Kabini River. We encountered a variety of wading birds, as well as great looks at Gray- headed -, elegant River Terns, several Asian Elephants with a calf, gorgeous Blue-tailed and Chestnut-headed bee-eaters bathing, a scattered flock of Small Pratincoles, and two families of Smooth- coated Otters.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Southern India, 2020 The lodge grounds also provided good birding with several midday strolls finding the scarce Malabar Pied Hornbill, a roosting Mottled Wood-, Forest Wagtail, Thick-billed Flowerpecker, a shrieking colony of Indian Flying Foxes, and a beautiful pair of White-naped Woodpeckers right behind our accommodation.

An impressive Gray-headed Fish-Eagle (L) on the Kabini River and a Brahminy (R) in Nagarhole © M Breckenridge.

During our time in the park, we recorded well over 100 species of birds. Some of the scarcer species we encountered included Red Spurfowl, Green Imperial-Pigeon, Blue-faced Malkoha, Barred Buttonquail giving uninterrupted views, confiding Changeable Hawk-Eagle, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, a magnificent White-bellied Woodpecker, Bronzed Drongo, a family of Rufous Babblers, multiple Indian Nuthatches, and Olive-backed Pipit.

The open woodland and scrub of Masinagudi situated in the rain shadow of the towering Nilgiri Hills soon beckoned. We had a terrific first afternoon outing with our excellent local guide Raj Kumar. Target birds quickly tumbled like Malabar Parakeet, Malabar Lark, Jerdon’s Bushlark, and Yellow-billed Babbler, while bonus birds such as Indian and White-rumped vultures overhead were also picked up. The star of the afternoon was undoubtedly the pair of rare and unobtrusive White-bellied Minivets that allowed uncharacteristically good views as they fed on the ground and low bushes in front of us.

We had several equally successful outings with Raj the following day, exploring a wide variety of habitats in the vicinity of Bokkapuram. We started with unbelievable looks at a Spot-bellied Eagle-Owl near her nest, followed them up with the very desirable Nilgiri feeding in a bamboo grove, and finished the day off with a covey of Jungle Bush-Quail and a lovely session with a cracking Indian Pitta. It had been a day to remember, with numerous other new birds coming thick and fast!

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Queen of the night – this imposing Spot-bellied Eagle-Owl (above) guarding her fluffy chick at Masinagudi was an unexpected highlight of the trip. One of three Nilgiri specialties – the Nilgiri Sholakili (below) from Peak © M Breckenridge.

From Masinagudi, it was time to head uphill to the British colonial outpost of Ooty with our guide Syam. Winding our way up the switchbacks, we just missed a Tiger dashing across the road in front of a car full of excitable locals. Raptors were out in force today with good views of Tawny, Booted, and Black , as well as our first Eurasian Kestrel and a pair of stratospheric Peregrine Falcons. Unfortunately, the calling Painted Bush-Quails would not break cover, so we had to settle for a showy Tickell’s Leaf Warbler and some bold Pied Bushchats. We settled into our stunning and historic lodgings at The Savoy and somehow made it through a six-course lunch before our afternoon outing in search of three key endemics at Doddabetta Peak.

We soon struck gold up on the mountainside when a remnant patch of shola forest surrendered its most wanted denizen—the Nilgiri Sholakili. Up on the peak itself we were treated to ridiculous views of several key species that have become habituated and used to the high foot traffic here. Indian Blackbirds scuttled around the carpark, and we soon spotted a hefty Nilgiri Wood-Pigeon. A muddy slope behind one of the pop-up food stalls attracted our last target for the afternoon in the form of several Nilgiri . Two new flycatchers also materialized—Nilgiri and the stunning Black-and-orange, before a second Nilgiri Sholakili put on a show. It had been yet another very successful day!

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Two of the stars from Ooty: Nilgiri Sholakili (L) and a friendly Nilgiri Wood-Pigeon (R) at Doddabetta Peak © M Breckenridge.

A pleasant day was spent exploring Ooty and its surroundings. We began with the Botanical Gardens where we had great looks at a stunning Indian Blue Robin and a couple of Tytler’s Leaf Warblers showing off. At Cairn Hill Reserve, a mixed feeding flock included a pair of Nilgiri Flycatchers, Bar- winged Flycatcher-Shrikes, and a lovely Blue-capped Rock-Thrush.

In the afternoon Syam took some of us into the center of town where we soaked up the sights, sounds, and smells of the market district.

Today was a long driving day downhill from Ooty, across the lowlands around Coimbatore, before again climbing up to the hill town of Valparai. We had another stroke of luck as we ascended the switchbacks near Valparai where a fortuitous stop revealed a single Yellow-throated —a rare and patchily distributed endemic. As we rolled through small towns dotted amongst the tea fields, we came across a troupe of the enigmatic Lion-tailed Macaques. It was a fantastic experience watching a family group of these endangered interacting and hanging out around a roadside temple.

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Lion-tailed Macaques on the road to Valparai © M Breckenridge.

The next day we set out from our wonderfully appointed and historic bungalow set amongst the tea fields. In patches of remnant shola forest we had some great birding sessions. New birds quickly appeared in the form of Malabar Gray Hornbill, several Velvet-fronted Nuthatches, Indian Yellow Tit, the tiny Malabar Barbet, and a striking Orange-headed Thrush singing from a grove of eucalyptus. We also had great looks at numerous Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters, small groups of Common Rosefinches, Plum-headed Parakeets, and a surprise pair of Lesser Fish-Eagles overhead!

It took a while for the birds to get going that afternoon, but a leisurely downhill stroll yielded a trio of our first Common Flamebacks, numerous showy Southern Hill Mynas, and great looks at a Changeable Hawk-Eagle.

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Sunrise over the tea fields surrounding our colonial bungalow at Valparai © M Breckenridge.

Before departing the next morning, we had great looks at a couple of the resident Malabar Whistling- Thrushes behind our accommodation, as well as a bonus Puff-throated Babbler, which checked us out at close range.

Heading back downhill, we stopped and quickly spotted a small group of the endangered mountain goats under some trees on a nearby rock face.

As we continued south, we made some further additions to the list, with Tufted Langurs and a Grizzled Giant revealing themselves in Chinnar. Another windy uphill road eventually led us to the town of Munnar.

We had another excellent day of South Indian birding around Munnar. We started with a short walk through a tea plantation to a forested creekline where the skulking White-bellied Sholakili behaved exceedingly well, while a flock of Palani Laughingthrushes materialized nearby allowing great looks at this local specialty. Our next stop involved a challenging hike to the grassy summit of one of the many peaks that surround Munnar. While this climb was understandably too much for some, those that did make the climb were rewarded with close views of the endemic Nilgiri Pipit. In shola forest below the peak we had fantastic looks at another Sholakili, while others found our only Dark-fronted Babbler. A Rufous-bellied Eagle soaring overhead was another quality addition.

In the afternoon we enjoyed an informative visit to a local tea museum and factory before the rain set in and forced us to retire—a typical day in Munnar!

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A pensive Palani Laughingthrush from Munnar © M Breckenridge.

Before arriving in the mid-elevation town of Kumily near the infamous NP, we enjoyed a surprisingly interesting visit to a local spice farm. This region of India is famous for its spices, particularly cardamom. We arrived at our fantastic lodge in time for yet another sumptuous lunch. That afternoon we hiked out to the edge of the national park with two local guides. It was incredibly birdy after a brief afternoon downpour, and at times it was hard to know where to look first! A Loten’s Sunbird showed well in a dead tree while a Rufous Woodpecker flew in and eventually gave great views. A beautiful Blue-bearded Bee-eater hawked for insects, Malabar Parakeets cavorted in trees overhead, and a mixture of starlings and orioles feasted in the flowering coral trees. A little further into the park, our local guides had picked up the calls of one very special —Wayanad Laughingthrush. We carefully positioned ourselves and over the next 15 minutes acquired a collection of views of these stunning but skulking birds feeding amongst stands of creekside bamboo. Just as everyone was happy to move on, the small flock ascended into the open coral tree above and proceeded to give us amazingly uncharacteristic views as they fed out in the open! What a fantastic introduction to Periyar—and even a lifer for yours truly!

A very special experience today involved a guided walk through some of the pristine forest that Periyar protects with local naturalist Raj Kumar. After crossing the river via bamboo raft, we were soon soaking up the morning birdlife. Mountain Imperial-Pigeon and Gray-fronted Green-Pigeon gave unobscured views between gaps in the canopy while we lucked onto a statuesque Malabar Trogon and a pair of gorgeous White-bellied Blue-Flycatchers. Further into the forest, Malabar Gray Hornbill showed well while the whooshing wingbeats of a Great Hornbill were heard just overhead. Crimson-backed Sunbirds fed in low bushes, and a shy Fork-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo was located before we jagged two special flycatchers hawking between the shade of the forest—Brown-breasted and Rusty-tailed.

Our final destination, the hot and humid lowlands of Thattekad, beckoned, and we enjoyed an afternoon and morning of birding here, with lots to keep us excited, despite the tough conditions. Our rustic and secluded lodge situated next to a serene backwater provided a great base. In the evening we sat by the

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 10 Southern India, 2020 pool and marveled as spectacular Great Eared Nightjars and Jerdon’s Nightjars competed for airspace amidst a cacophony of wonderful calls.

Before departing for Kochi and home, we spent an enjoyable morning birding in forest near Thattekad. We started with a fantastic Frogmouth—roosting amongst dead leaves, which it mimics for camouflage. We came across another two roosts, allowing great studies of these tiny and cryptic nightbirds, as well as a bonus Indian Scops-Owl peering out of its tree hollow. In the surrounding forest we had great looks at a variety of species feeding in a fruiting fig including Yellow-browed and Flame- throated bulbuls, Asian Fairy-Bluebird, and Thick-billed Flowerpecker, while a Banded Bay Cuckoo called from cover and a pair of Lesser Yellownapes were seen.

Thankfully, it was only a short drive from Thattekad to our comfortable airport hotel, where we enjoyed one final dinner together before our respective departures. It had been yet another memorable trip to India, and to this region of the country which holds so many surprises and wonderful birds. A big thanks to all the participants who made up an extraordinarily easy-going and friendly group. Also many thanks to our local contacts in India who work so tirelessly and are always full of enthusiasm—Syam, Pradeep, Ravi, Ajesh, and both Raj Kumars, as well as the office staff and additional local guides.

One of several Sri Lanka Frogmouth from Thattekad disguising themselves amongst dead leaves caught up in the understorey vegetation © M Breckenridge.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 11 Southern India, 2020

ITINERARY

Date Locations Wednesday 19th Feb AM: Bangalore, Kokkare Bellur PM: Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace & Museum, Mysore Thursday 20th Feb AM: Ranganathittu Sanctuary PM: Kabini & Nagarhole National Park – jeep safari Friday 21st Feb AM: Kabini & Nagarhole National Park – jeep safari PM: Kabini & Nagarhole National Park – boat safari Saturday 22nd Feb AM/PM: Kabini & Nagarhole National Park – jeep safari Sunday 23rd Feb AM/PM: Kabini & Nagarhole National Park – jeep safari Monday 24th Feb AM: Kabini & Nagarhole National Park – boat safari PM: Masinagudi – Mavanalla Tuesday 25th Feb AM/PM: Masinagudi – Bokkapuram Wednesday 26th Feb AM: Masinagudi PM: Ooty – Doddabetta Peak Thursday 27th Feb AM: Ooty – Botanical Gardens, Cairn Hill Reserve PM: Ooty Friday 28th Feb AM: Ooty PM: Valparai – Stanmore Estate Saturday 29th Feb AM/PM: Valparai Sunday 1st Mar AM: Valparai PM: Chinnar, Munnar Monday 2nd Mar AM: Munnar - Pothamedu PM: Munnar Tuesday 3rd Mar AM: Munnar PM: Kumily & Wednesday 4th Mar AM/PM: Periyar National Park Thursday 5th Mar AM: Kumily PM: Thattekad Friday 6th Mar AM: Thattekad – Urulunthanni PM: Kochi – departures

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 12 Southern India, 2020 TOP FIVE BIRDS OF THE TRIP (ranked): 1. SRI LANKA FROGMOUTH (11) 2. SPOT-BELLIED EAGLE-OWL (10) =3. WAYANAD LAUGHINGTHRUSH (8) =3. WHITE-BELLIED MINIVET (8) =3. MALABAR WHISTLING-THRUSH (8) =3. PAINTED STORK (8) =4. NILGIRI PIPIT (5) =4. WOOLLY-NECKED STORK (5) =5. MALABAR TROGON (4) =5. CRIMSON-BACKED SUNBIRD (4) KEY  H – Heard only  L – Leader only  I –  E – Species is endemic to India  e – Species is endemic to the (India, Sri Lanka, , , )  NP – National Park  ssp – subspecies

BIRDS Species total: 260 Heard only: 3 Leader only: 5

DUCKS, GEESE & WATERFOWL (Anatidae) Lesser Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna javanica) – Tens around Kabini, and Thattekad. Cotton Pygmy-Goose (Nettapus coromandelianus) – Four birds on a roadside wetland between Mysore and Kabini. Garganey (Spatula querquedula) – Three birds on a roadside wetland between Mysore and Kabini. Indian Spot-billed Duck (Anas poecilorhyncha) – Tens each day at Kabini, singles at Munnar. Green-winged [Eurasian] Teal (Anas c. crecca) – Singles on one of the boat safaris at Kabini.

PHEASANTS, GROUSE & ALLIES (Phasianidae) Indian Peafowl (Pavo cristatus) – Singles/tens each day at Kabini & Nagarhole NP, singles around Masinagudi. Red Spurfowl E (Galloperdix spadicea) – Pairs on two occasions in Nagarhole NP, single in Periyar NP. Jungle Bush-Quail e (Perdicula asiatica) – Covey of 10 birds seen at Masingudi, small covey flushed in poor light on the road near Kabini. Painted Bush-Quail HE (Perdicula erythrorhyncha) – Frustratingly only heard several small coveys calling from the cover of tea plantations and grassland at Ooty and Munnar. Grey Francolin (Francolinus pondicerianus) – Singles at Kabini. Grey Junglefowl E (Gallus sonneratii) – Singles/tens seen or heard on all but three days of the trip.

GREBES (Podicipedidae)

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 13 Southern India, 2020 Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis) – Four birds on a roadside wetland between Mysore and Kabini.

A curious Indian Peacock checking us out while we were watching at Nagarhole NP © M Breckenridge.

PIGEONS & DOVES () Rock [Feral] Pigeon I (Columba livia) – Singles/tens seen on multiple occasions. Nilgiri Wood-Pigeon E (Columba elphinstonii) – Incredible views of up to 10 birds at Doddabetta Peak (Ooty) including birds feeding on the ground in the carpark and allowing close approach. Eurasian Collared-Dove (Streptopelia decaocto) – Single observed at Masinagudi. Spotted Dove (Streptopelia chinensis) – Singles/tens seen on all but two days of the trip. Laughing Dove (Streptopelia senegalensis) – Singles observed around Masinagudi. Asian Emerald Dove (Chalcophaps indica) – Flight views at Masinagudi and Munnar, single observed at Periyar NP. Gray-fronted Green-Pigeon E (Treron affinis) – Singles observed at Periyar NP and Thattekad. Yellow-footed Green-Pigeon (Treron phoenicopterus) – Good views of this beautiful dove drinking in small flocks on several occasions in Nagarhole NP. Green Imperial-Pigeon (Ducula aenea) – Singles/tens at Nagarhole NP and Thattekad. Mountain Imperial-Pigeon (Ducula badia) [‘Nilgiri Imperial-Pigeon’ E (Ducula b. cuprea)] – We were fortunate to have good looks at several birds in Periyar NP.

CUCKOOS (Cuculidae) (Centropus sinensis) [‘Southern Coucal’ e (Centropus s. parroti)] – Singles heard/seen on multiple occasions during the trip. Blue-faced Malkoha (Phaenicophaeus viridirostris) – A single and a pair of this shy species observed on two different occasions in Nagarhole NP. Asian [Common] Koel (Eudynamys scolopaceus) – Singles seen/heard at Kabini, Kumily and Thattekad.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 14 Southern India, 2020 Banded Bay Cuckoo H (Cacomantis sonneratii) – Singles heard at Nagarhole NP and Thattekad. Fork-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo (Surniculus dicruroides) – Good looks at a single in Periyar NP. Common Hawk-Cuckoo (Hierococcyx varius) – Singles seen each day in Nagarhole NP, Periyar NP and Thattekad. Very vocal at times, well deserving of its nickname – ‘brain fever’ bird.

FROGMOUTHS (Podargidae) Sri Lanka Frogmouth e (Batrachostomus monileger) – Three separate roosting individuals observed on our morning at Urulunthani. Remarkable little nightbirds that mimic dead leaves in the canopy of the rainforest understory.

NIGHTJARS & ALLIES (Caprimulgidae) Great Eared Nightjar (Lyncornis macrotis) – We enjoyed a wonderful spectacle of multiple birds flying around our heads and over the water at our accommodation in Thattekad while uttering their distinctive whistles. Jungle Nightjar He (Caprimulgus indicus) – Several birds heard only at Masinagudi and Thattekad. Jerdon’s Nightjar e (Caprimulgus atripennis) – Great looks at several calling birds flying around our accommodation at Thattekad. Indian Nightjar (Caprimulgus asiaticus) – Brief views of a flushed bird at Masinagudi.

SWIFTS (Apodidae) White-rumped Needletail (Zoonavena sylvatica) – Singles observed at Nagarhole NP and Periyar NP. Brown-backed Needletail (Hirundapus giganteus) – Great looks at two low flocks at a bathroom stop en route to Kumily, and in Periyar NP. Indian Swiftlet e (Aerodramus unicolor) – Singles/tens observed overhead on multiple occasions. Alpine (Apus melba) – Individuals observed in flight at Nagarhole NP, Masinagudi, Valparai and Thattekad. Typically flying high and distantly, but we enjoyed good looks at Masinagudi of several birds. Asian Palm-Swift L (Cypsiurus balasiensis) – Single seen briefly at Nagarhole NP.

TREESWIFTS (Hemiprocnidae) Crested Treeswift (Hemiprocne coronata) – Singles observed at Nagarhole NP and Masinagudi.

RAILS, GALLINULES & COOTS (Rallidae) Eurasian Coot (Fulica atra) – Tens on a roadside wetland between Mysore and Kabini. Gray-headed Swamphen (Porphyrio poliocephalus) – Tens on a roadside wetland between Mysore and Kabini. White-breasted Waterhen (Amaurornis phoenicurus) – Singles observed on multiple occasions, typically skulking on the edge of wetlands, drains, and ponds.

THICK-KNEES (Burhinidae) Great Thick-knee (Esacus recurvirostris) – Great looks at five individuals on rocks at Ranganthittu.

STILTS & AVOCETS (Recurvirostridae) Black-winged Stilt (Himantopus himantopus) – Single seen distantly at Kabini.

PLOVERS & LAPWINGS (Charadriidae) Yellow-wattled Lapwing e (Vanellus malabaricus) – An attractive plover, typically found in less urban environments than Red-wattled Lapwing. Singles at Kabini and Masinagudi. Red-wattled Lapwing (Vanellus indicus) – Singles/tens at Kabini, Nagarhole NP and Masinagudi. Little Ringed Plover (Charadrius dubius) – Singles along the lake edge at Nagarhole NP.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 15 Southern India, 2020 JACANAS (Jacanidae) Bronze-winged Jacana (Metopidius indicus) – Single on a roadside wetland between Mysore and Kabini and another at Thattekad.

SANDPIPERS & ALLIES (Scolopacidae) Common Snipe (Gallinago gallinago) – Two individuals along the lake shore at Nagarhole NP on two occasions. Most likely this species based on location, but unable to rule out Pin-tailed Snipe. Pin-tailed Snipe (Gallinago stenura) – Single flushed from grassland at Kumily. Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos) – Singles each day at Nagarhole NP, and several at Periyar NP. Green Sandpiper (Tringa ochropus) – Singles most days at Nagarhole NP, and at least two birds at Periyar NP. Common Greenshank (Tringa nebularia) – Singles seen each day along the lake shore at Nagarhole NP. Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola) – Singles seen each day along the lake shore at Nagarhole NP.

BUTTONQUAILS (Turnicidae) Barred Buttonquail (Turnix suscitator) – Amazing views of a single bird feeding unconcernedly beside our jeep one afternoon in Nagarhole NP. A pair flushed at Masinagudi.

PRATINCOLES & COURSERS (Glareolidae) Small Pratincole (Glareola lactea) – Up to 100 birds feeding low over the lake at Kabini were a welcome surprise on our afternoon boat safari.

GULLS, TERNS & SKIMMERS (Laridae) Whiskered Tern (Chlidonias hybrida) – Singles/tens over waterways around Thattekad. River Tern (Sterna aurantia) – Singles/tens on the lake at Nagarhole NP, singles at Periyar NP and Thattekad.

STORKS (Ciconiidae) Asian Openbill (Anastomus oscitans) – Close views of up to 200 breeding individuals at Ranganathittu. Woolly-necked Stork (Ciconia episcopus) – Singles/tens each day at Nagarhole NP, Masinagudi, Valparai and Periyar NP. Painted Stork (Mycteria leucocephala) – Over 100 breeding individuals observed at Kokkare Bellur and Ranganathittu.

One of the many Painted Stork (L) nesting at Ranganathittu, and a Woolly-necked Stork (R) patrolling the shoreline at Nagarhole NP © M Breckenridge.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 16 Southern India, 2020 ANHINGAS (Anhingidae) Oriental Darter (Anhinga melanogaster) – Singles at Ranganathittu, Nagarhole NP and Thattekad.

CORMORANTS & SHAGS (Phalacrocoracidae) Little Cormorant (Microcarbo niger) – Singles/tens observed at most waterways throughout the trip. Great Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo) – Singles/tens on the lake at Nagarhole NP including a flock of at least 50 birds fishing together during our second boat safari. Indian Cormorant (Phalacrocorax fuscicollis) – Up to 50 birds breeding at Ranganathittu, and a few individuals at Thattekad.

PELICANS (Pelecanidae) Spot-billed Pelican (Pelecanus philippensis) – Up to 50 birds breeding at Kokkare Bellur and Ranganathittu.

HERONS, EGRETS & BITTERNS (Ardeidae) Gray Heron (Ardea cinerea) – Singles each day at Nagarhole NP. Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea) – Single birds at Ranganathittu and Nagarhole NP. Great Egret (Ardea alba) – Singles/tens on multiple occasions. Intermediate Egret (Mesophoyx intermedia) – Singles/tens on multiple occasions. Little Egret (Egretta garzetta) – Singles/tens on multiple occasions. [Eastern] Cattle Egret (Bubulcus [ibis] coromandus) – Singles/tens observed on most days of the trip. Indian Pond-Heron (Ardeola grayii) – Singles/tens observed on most days of the trip. Black-crowned Night-Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax) – Tens at Kokkare Bellur and Ranganathittu.

IBIS & SPOONBILLS (Threskiornithidae) Black-headed Ibis (Threskiornis melanocephalus) – Singles observed in fields while driving on two occasions and several at Kabini one afternoon. Red-naped Ibis e (Pseudibis papillosa) – Singles/tens observed en route between Bangalore and Kabini, and along the lake shore at Nagarhole NP. Eurasian Spoonbill (Platalea leucorodia) – Good looks at up to 20 breeding individuals at Ranganathittu.

OSPREY (Pandionidae) Osprey (Pandion haliaetus) – Singles observed most days at Nagarhole NP along the lake shore.

HAWKS, EAGLES & KITES () [Asian] Black-winged Kite (Elanus caeruleus vociferus) – Singles observed on several occasions, all north of Ooty. Oriental Honey-buzzard (Pernis ptilorhynchus) [‘Indomalayan Honey-buzzard’ (Pernis p. ptilorhynchus)] – Singles observed on multiple occasions. The most regularly encountered ‘large’ raptor of the trip. Black Baza (Aviceda leuphotes) – Two separate individuals seen briefly in flight at Thattekad. Red-headed Vulture (Sarcogyps calvus) – Single observed distantly in flight at Nagarhole NP, and another seen close overhead at Masinagudi. A critically endangered species. White-rumped Vulture (Gyps bengalensis) – At least one bird observed circling with an Indian Vulture at Masinagudi. Several vultures seen distantly at the same time were likely also this species. A critically endangered species. Indian [Long-billed] Vulture (Gyps indicus) – We were fortunate to have good views of a single bird circling with a White-rumped Vulture on our first afternoon at Masinagudi. A critically endangered species. Crested Serpent-Eagle (Spilornis cheela) – Observed on multiple occasions.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 17 Southern India, 2020 Changeable Hawk-Eagle ( cirrhatus) [‘Crested Hawk-Eagle’ e (Nisaetus c. cirrhatus)] – Great looks at several of these beautiful forest raptors perched low down in Nagarhole NP, and a single at Valparai. Rufous-bellied Eagle (Lophotriorchis kienerii) – An uncommon raptor in southern India – most of us had good looks at an adult circling near Munnar, and we all had excellent views of a pair in Periyar NP. (Ictinaetus malayensis) – Fantastic prolonged views of an adult hunting characteristically low to the ground/trees near Ooty, and a pair at Pothamedu. Great Spotted Eagle (Clanga clanga) – A single bird was observed circling at Periyar NP – uncommon this far south, but a species that is known to wander. Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus) – Single birds observed well in flight at Kabini and Ooty. ( rapax) – A single bird soaring near Masinagudi as we were making our way to Ooty. Eurasian Marsh-Harrier (Circus aeruginosus) – A single bird seen well at Ranganathittu. Crested Goshawk (Accipiter trivirgatus) – Singles observed on multiple occasions. Shikra (Accipiter b. badius) – Singles observed at Masinagudi and Thattekad. Black Kite (Milvus migrans) – Tens/hundreds observed around Bangalore, Mysore and Masinagudi. Abundant in the large cities of central to northern India. Brahminy Kite (Haliastur indus) – Singles observed on multiple occasions, often far from coastal waters. Lesser Fish-Eagle (Haliaeetus humilis) – A very unexpected sighting of a pair circling low overhead at Valparai. Gray-headed Fish-Eagle (Haliaeetus ichthyaetus) – At least two birds seen well on the lake at Nagarhole NP. Common [Steppe] Buzzard (Buteo buteo vulpinus) – At least three individuals observed in flight at Ooty and Valparai.

A Barred Buttonquail from Nagarhole NP and a Mottled Wood-Owl found roosting behind our lodge at Kabini © M Breckenridge.

OWLS (Strigidae) Indian Scops-Owl (Otus bakkamoena) – Our last new bird for the trip. A single allowed for good views as it peered down from its roost hollow near Thattekad. Spot-bellied Eagle-Owl (Bubo nipalensis) – An undoubted highlight of the trip was being lead to the nest of this giant forest owl where we had perfect views of the adult female guarding her chick at Masinagudi. Brown Fish-Owl (Ketupa zeylonensis) – Somewhat frustrating views of a mostly obscured adult bird and its chick in a nest hollow at Masinagudi. Jungle Owlet e (Glaucidium radiatum) – Singles heard/observed on multiple occasions. The common

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 18 Southern India, 2020 forest owlet species of southern India. Spotted Owlet (Athene brama) – A single bird observed being harassed by a mixed flock of birds at Masinagudi. Mottled Wood-Owl E ( ocellata) – An unexpected find of an adult bird roosting in forest behind our accommodation at Kabini – heard most nights during our stay here. Brown Boobook (Ninox scutulata) – A pair observed roosting in a stand of bamboo near the entrance to Periyar NP.

TROGONS (Trogonidae) Malabar Trogon e (Harpactes fasciatus) – Good views of a single female in Periyar NP and a male near Thattekad.

HOOPOES (Upupidae) Eurasian Hoopoe (Upupa epops) – Singles observed on multiple occasions, especially during the first half of the trip. Always a fan favourite.

HORNBILLS (Bucerotidae) Great Hornbill (Buceros bicornis) – Unfortunately only seen briefly in flight at Periyar NP near a nest. Indian Gray Hornbill e (Ocyceros birostris) – Singles around Kabini. Malabar Gray Hornbill E (Ocyceros griseus) – Singles around Valparai, Periyar NP and Thattekad. Malabar Pied-Hornbill e (Anthracoceros coronatus) – At least one shy individual spotted by some during one of our midday walks around the lodge at Kabini – a rare bird in southern India.

KINGFISHERS (Alcedinidae) Common Kingfisher (Alcedo atthis) – Singles each day in Nagarhole NP. Stork-billed Kingfisher (Pelargopsis capensis) – A single observed at Ranganathittu. White-throated Kingfisher (Halcyon smyrnensis) – Singles observed on most days of the trip. Pied Kingfisher (Ceryle rudis) – Pair observed briefly at Periyar NP and good views of another pair on wires beside the bridge at Thattekad.

BEE-EATERS (Meropidae) Blue-bearded Bee-eater (Nyctyornis athertoni) – Uncommon and unobtrusive, we were fortunate to see this species on several occasions at Nagarhole NP, Masinagudi and Periyar NP. Green Bee-eater (Merops orientalis) – Singles around Mysore and Masinagudi. Blue-tailed Bee-eater (Merops philippinus) – Good views of a small flock bathing on our boat safari in Nagarhole NP, singles around Thattekad. Chestnut-headed Bee-eater (Merops leschenaulti) – Common in the highlands around Valparai and Munnar, also seen at Nagarhole NP and Periyar NP.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 19 Southern India, 2020

An Indian Roller from Nagarhole NP and a pair of Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters at Periyar NP © M Breckenridge.

ROLLERS (Coraciidae) Indian Roller (Coracias benghalensis) – Singles each day around Nagarhole NP and Thattekad. Dollarbird (Eurystomus orientalis) – Pair and a single seen well on our first afternoon at Thattekad.

ASIAN BARBETS (Megalaimidae) Malabar Barbet E ( malabaricus) – Singles of this small, but attractive barbet observed at Valparai, Munnar and Thattekad. Excellent views at Thattekad where up to 10 birds were feeding in a low fig tree. (Psilopgon haemacephala) – Singles seen/heard on most days of the trip north of Valparai. White-cheeked Barbet E (Psilopgon viridis) – Singles seen/heard on every day of the trip.

WOODPECKERS (Picidae) Heart-spotted Woodpecker (Hemicircus canente) – Frustratingly brief views for most on a couple of occasions at Masinagudi, Periyar NP and Thattekad. Brown-capped Woodpecker e (Yungipicus nanus) – Singles observed on multiple occasions. Yellow-crowned Woodpecker (Leiopicus mahrattensis) – Singles observed at Nagarhole NP and Masinagudi. Greater Flameback (Chrysocolaptes guttacristatus) – Singles observed near Ooty and at Periyar NP. White-naped Woodpecker e (Chrysocolaptes festivus) – Great looks at a pair of this scarce species behind the lodge at Kabini. Rufous Woodpecker (Celeus brachyurus) – Singles observed on both days at Periyar NP. Common Flameback (Dinopium javanense) – Singles observed at Valparai and Periyar NP. Black-rumped Flameback (Dinopium benghalense) – Singles on multiple occasions, mostly at Nagarhole NP, Periyar NP and Thattekad. The most regularly encountered woodpecker in the region. Lesser Yellownape (Picus chlorolophus) – Singles observed by some at Munnar and Periyar NP, with good views of a pair on our final morning at Thattekad. Streak-throated Woodpecker (Picus xanthopygaeus) – Regularly seen in Nagarhole NP, singles at Masinagudi and Valparai. White-bellied Woodpecker (Dryocopus javensis) – Great looks at this large and striking woodpecker one morning in Nagarhole NP, heard in Periyar NP.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 20 Southern India, 2020

A male Streak-throated Woodpecker (L) from Nagarhole NP and an Indian Pitta (R) at Masinagudi © M Breckenridge.

FALCONS & CARACARAS (Falconidae) Eurasian [Common] Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus) – Single birds overhead at Ooty and Valparai. Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus) – A pair high overhead at Ooty, appeared to be the wintering ssp. calidus.

OLD WORLD PARROTS (Psittaculidae) Rose-ringed Parakeet (Psittacula krameri) – Singles/tens around Bangalore, Mysore, Kabini and Valparai. Plum-headed Parakeet e (Psittacula cyanocephala) – Singles/tens seen each day in Nagarhole NP, good numbers at Valparai, and several around Thattekad. Malabar Parakeet E (Psittacula columboides) – Singles/tens observed in flight at Nagarhole NP and Munnar, with good views of singles perched at Masinagudi, Valparai and Periyar NP. Vernal Hanging-Parrot (Loriculus vernalis) – Seen/heard on most days of the trip, good views of perched individuals at Valparai and Munnar.

PITTAS (Pittidae) Indian Pitta e (Pitta brachyura) – Fantastic views of an individual feeding along a creekline at Masinagudi. Brief looks at a single near Kumily and heard only at Thattekad.

CUCKOOSHRIKES (Campephagidae) White-bellied Minivet E (Pericrocotus erythropygius) – We were very lucky to have stellar views of a pair of these beautiful birds feeding in front of us on our first afternoon at Masinagudi. This scarce and shy species typically takes many hours to find! Small Minivet (Pericrocotus cinnamomeus) – Singles/families observed on multiple occasions. Orange Minivet e (Pericrocotus flammeus) – Singles/pairs observed on multiple occasions. Large Cuckooshrike (Coracina macei) – Singles observed at Nagarhole NP and Periyar NP. Black-headed Cuckooshrike e (Lalage melanoptera) – Single bird observed in a mixed flock harassing a Spotted Owlet at Masinagudi.

OLD WORLD ORIOLES (Oriolidae) Indian Golden Oriole (Oriolus kundoo) – Singles of this beautiful species seen on multiple occasions. Black-hooded Oriole (Oriolus xanthornus) – Singles observed on multiple occasions.

WOODSWALLOWS, BELLMAGPIES & ALLIES (Artamidae) Ashy Woodswallow (Artamus fuscus) – Singles observed at Nagarhole NP and Thattekad.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 21 Southern India, 2020 VANGAS, HELMETSHRIKES & ALLIES (Vangidae) Malabar Woodshrike E (Tephrodornis sylvicola) – Singles observed on multiple occasions. Common Woodshrike (Tephrodornis pondicerianus) – Singles observed briefly at Nagarhole NP and Thattekad. Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike (Hemipus picatus) – Pairs observed at Nagarhole NP, Masinagudi, Ooty and Valparai.

IORAS (Aegithinidae) Common Iora (Aegithina tiphia) – Singles observed on a couple of occasions.

FANTAILS (Rhipiduridae) Spot-breasted [White-spotted] Fantail E (Rhipidura albogularis) – Singles observed on multiple occasions.

DRONGOS (Dicruridae) (Dicrurus macrocercus) – Singles observed on multiple occasions in open country. Ashy Drongo (Dicrurus leucophaeus) – Singles observed on multiple occasions in forest. White-bellied Drongo e (Dicrurus caerulescens) – Singles observed each day in Nagarhole NP. Bronzed Drongo (Dicrurus aeneus) – Singles obserbed at Nagarhole NP, Valparai and Thattekad. Greater Racket-tailed Drongo (Dicrurus paradiseus) – Singles observed at Nagarhole NP, Valparai, Periyar NP and Thattekad.

MONARCH FLYCATCHERS (Monarchidae) Indian Paradise-Flycatcher (Terpsiphone paradisi) – Singles of this striking sylph observed in Nagarhole NP, Masinagudi and Periyar NP.

SHRIKES (Laniidae) Brown Shrike (Lanius cristatus) – Singles observed on multiple occasions. Bay-backed Shrike (Lanius vittatus) – Good views of several individuals around Masinagudi. Long-tailed Shrike (Lanius schach) – Singles observed on multiple occasions.

CROWS, JAYS & MAGPIES (Corvidae) (Dendrocitta vagabunda) – Singles observed briefly at Nagarhole NP and Periyar NP. White-bellied Treepie E (Dendrocitta leucogastra) – A striking south Indian endemic, singles observed well on both days at Periyar NP. House Crow (Corvus splendens) – Tens observed on most days of the trip – especially in urbanised environments. Large-billed Crow (Corvus macrorhynchos) [‘’ e (Corvus m. culminatus)] – Singles/tens observed on every day of the trip.

FAIRY FLYCATCHERS (Stenostiridae) Gray-headed Canary-Flycatcher (Culicicapa ceylonensis) – Singles observed at Ooty and Valparai.

TITS, CHICKADEES & TITMICE (Paridae) Cinereous [Gray] Tit (Parus cinereus) – Singles observed on multiple occasions. Indian Yellow Tit E (Machlolophus aplonotus travancoreensis) – Singles seen well at Valparai, and two distant birds at Periyar NP.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 22 Southern India, 2020

Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher (L) and a Cinereous Tit (R) from Ooty © M Breckenridge.

LARKS (Alaudidae) Rufous-tailed Lark Le (Ammomanes phoenicura) – Brief view of a single flying away on the edge of Nagarhole NP. Jerdon’s Bushlark e (Mirafra affinis) – Great looks at two singing individuals at Masinagudi. Malabar Lark E (Galerida malabarica) – Up to six birds observed on our first afternoon at Masinagudi and a single near Ooty.

CISTICOLAS & ALLIES (Cisticolidae) Common Tailorbird (Orthotomus sutorius) – Singles heard/observed on multiple occasions. Gray-breasted Prinia (Prinia hodgsonii) – Singles seen briefly in Nagarhole NP. Ashy Prinia (Prinia socialis) – Singles observed on multiple occasions. Plain Prinia L (Prinia inornata) – Singles seen in grassland above Pothamedu.

REED WARBLERS & ALLIES (Acrocephalidae) Booted Warbler (Iduna caligata) – Singles seen in scrubby habitat around Masinagudi. Sykes’s Warbler (Iduna rama) – Single seen well in the lodge grounds at Kabini. Blyth’s Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus dumetorum) – Singles seen/heard on multiple occasions.

MARTINS & SWALLOWS (Hirundinidae) Dusky Crag-Martin (Ptyonoprogne concolor) – Singles observed around Valparai. Barn ( rustica) – Tens/hundreds observed around Bangalore, Mysore, Kabini and Nagarhole NP. Hill Swallow e (Hirundo domicola) – Singles observed at Masinagudi and Ooty. Red-rumped Swallow ( daurica) – Singles observed at Nagarhole NP and Masinagudi. Streak-throated Swallow ( fluvicola) – Great looks at over 50 birds nesting under a rocky overhang at Ranganathittu.

BULBULS (Pycnonotidae) Flame-throated Bulbul E (Rubigula gularis) – Good views of this attractive bulbul at Periyar NP and Thattekad. Red-vented Bulbul ( cafer) – Observed on most days of the trip. Red-whiskered Bulbul (Pycnonotus jocosus) – Observed on every day of the trip. Yellow-throated Bulbul E (Pycnonotus xantholaemus) – We did well to jag close looks at a single bird in rocky forest along the drive uphill to Valparai. White-browed Bulbul E (Pycnonotus luteolus) – Singles seen briefly at Kabini and Chinnar. Yellow-browed Bulbul e (Iole indica) – Singles observed near Ooty, Kumily and Thattekad. [Indian] Square-tailed Bulbul e (Hypsipetes g. ganeesa) – Up to five birds seen during our morning at

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 23 Southern India, 2020 Pothamedu.

LEAF WARBLERS (Phylloscopidae) Tytler’s Leaf-Warbler (Phylloscopus tytleri) – Great looks at several calling individuals feeding in a flowering callistemon at the Botanical Gardens in Ooty. Tickell’s Leaf Warbler (Phylloscopus affinis) – Good looks at several individuals around Ooty. Green Warbler (Phylloscopus nitidus) – Single seen well at Cairn Hill in Ooty, others heard on a couple of occasions. Greenish Warbler (Phylloscopus trochiloides) – Singles seen/heard on multiple occasions.

SYLVIID WARBLERS, PARROTBILLS & ALLIES (Sylviidae) Lesser Whitethroat (Sylvia curruca) [‘Hume’s Whitethroat’ (Sylvia c. althaea)] – Singles observed in scrubby habitat at Masinagudi. Yellow-eyed Babbler (Chrysomma sinense) – A small party seen well on our morning at Masinagudi.

WHITE-EYES, YUHINAS & ALLIES (Zosteropidae) Indian White-eye (Zosterops palpebrosus) – Singles/tens observed each day between Masinagudi and Munnar.

SCIMITAR-BABBLERS & ALLIES (Timaliidae) Tawny-bellied Babbler e (Dumetia hyperythra) – Several birds observed coming in to roost in a bamboo patch at Masinagudi. Dark-fronted Babbler e (Rhopocichla atriceps) – Single seen by some in shola forest at Pothamedu. Indian Scimitar-Babbler E (Pomatorhinus horsfieldi) – Singles of this lovely species observed at Masinagudi, Valparai and Munnar.

GROUND BABBLERS & ALLIES (Pellorneidae) Puff-throated Babbler (Pellorneum ruficeps) – Fantastic looks at a very inquisitive individual at our accommodation in Valparai.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 24 Southern India, 2020

The star of Periyar NP – Wayanad Laughingthrush showing ridiculously well in a flowering coral tree © M Breckenridge.

LAUGHINGTHRUSH & ALLIES (Leiothrichidae) Brown-cheeked Fulvetta (Alcippe poioicephala) – A dumpy bird with a beautiful song. Singles observed at Masinagudi and Periyar NP, heard at Valparai and Thattekad. Rufous Babbler E ( subrufa) – A small flock of this scarce endemic seen on the edge of a firebreak at Nagarhole NP, heard at Pothamedu. Jungle Babbler e (Turdoides striata) – Family parties observed on multiple occasions. Yellow-billed Babbler e (Turdoides affinis) – Tens observed around Masinagudi. Wayanad Laughingthrush E (Ianthocincla delesserti) – One of the highlights of the trip was encountering a party of this rare and skulking endemic which eventually allowed amazing views as they fed in an open coral tree. E ( cachinnans) – Great views of at least seven birds at Doddabetta Peak near Ooty. Palani Laughingthrush E (Montecincla fairbanki) – Good looks at a feeding flock near Pothamedu.

NUTHATCHES (Sittidae) Indian Nuthatch E (Sitta castanea) – Singles observed on several occasions in Nagarhole NP and at Masinagudi. Velvet-fronted Nuthatch (Sitta frontalis) – Good views of several pairs around Valparai.

STARLINGS (Sturnidae) Southern Hill Myna e (Gracula indica) – Singles/tens on multiple occasions, especially south of Ooty. Brahminy Starling ( pagodarum) – Singles/tens each day around Nagarhole NP and Masinagudi. Chestnut-tailed Starling (Sturnia malabarica) – Singles each day at Nagarhole NP. Malabar Starling E (Sturnia erythropygia) – Singles each day at Nagarhole NP, Periyar NP and Thattekad. Common Myna (Acridotheres tristis) – Singles/tens on most days of the trip, especially around urbanized environments.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 25 Southern India, 2020 Jungle Myna (Acridotheres fuscus) – Singles/tens on every day of the trip.

THRUSHES & ALLIES (Turdidae) Nilgiri Thrush E (Zoothera neilgherriensis) – Good looks at an individual of this very scarce species snatching up worms in the shade of a bamboo grove at Masinagudi. Orange-headed Thrush (Geokickla citrina) – Singles seen well at Valparai and Periyar NP. Indian Blackbird e (Turdus simillimus) – Close looks at multiple individuals at Doddabetta Peak near Ooty, and Pothamedu.

A smart Indian Blackbird (L) and a shy Blue-capped Rock-Thrush (R) from Ooty © M Breckenridge.

OLD WORLD FLYCATCHERS (Muscicapidae) Asian Brown Flycatcher (Muscicapa latirostris) – Singles observed on multiple occasions. Brown-breasted Flycatcher (Muscicapa muttui) – Good views of a single bird in Periyar NP. Indian Robin e (Copsychus fulicatus) – Tens observed in scrubby habitat around Masinagudi. Oriental Magpie-Robin (Copsychus saularis) – Singles/tens observed on every day of the trip. White-rumped Shama (Copsychus malabaricus) – Good looks at a single bird in a bamboo grove at Masinagudi, heard at Nagarhole NP. Nilgiri Sholakili E (Sholicola major) – Excellent looks at this very range-restricted endemic singing in shola forest near Ooty and at Doddabetta Peak. White-bellied Sholakili E (Sholicola albiventris) – Close and extended views of two different individuals around Pothamedu. White-bellied Blue-Flycatcher E (Cyornis pallipes) – At least four individuals encountered during our day in Periyar NP including two beautiful males. Tickell’s Blue-Flycatcher (Cyornis tickelliae) – Close views of several birds at Ranganathittu, and a couple around Masinagudi. E (Eumyias albicaudatus) – Nice looks at two pairs around Ooty and again in shola forest at Pothamedu. Indian Blue Robin ( brunnea) – Two birds, including a close and stunning adult male, were observed at the Botanical Gardens in Ooty. Malabar Whistling-Thrush E (Myophonus horsfieldii) – Great views of several birds at our accommodation in Valparai. The distinctive call of this species, sometimes referred to as ‘whistling school boy’ by locals, was heard on multiple occasions. Black-and-orange Flycatcher E (Ficedula nigrorufa) – One of the best-looking flycatchers, good numbers around Ooty of this sometimes-elusive species. Rusty-tailed Flycatcher (Ficedula ruficauda) – Single observed and others heard in Periyar NP. Red-breasted Flycatcher L (Ficedula parva) – Single seen briefly while watching our first Tiger in Nagarhole NP.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 26 Southern India, 2020 Blue-capped Rock-Thrush (Monticola cinclorhyncha) – Singles at Ooty, Valparai and Munnar. Pied Bushchat (Saxicola caprata) – Seen on multiple occasions at a variety of elevations until we left Munnar.

FLOWERPECKERS (Dicaeidae) Thick-billed Flowerpecker (Dicaeum agile) – Single birds observed at Kabini and on our final morning at Thattekad. Pale-billed Flowerpecker (Dicaeum erythrorhynchos) – Singles observed on multiple occasions, all north of Munnar. Nilgiri Flowerpecker E (Dicaeum concolor) – Singles observed at Valparai and Munnar.

SUNBIRDS & SPIDERHUNTERS (Nectariniidae) Purple-rumped Sunbird e (Leptocoma zeylonica) – Observed on multiple occasions, particularly around Kabini and Nagarhole NP. Crimson-backed Sunbird E (Leptocoma minima) – Excellent views of several birds at Periyar NP and Thattekad. Purple Sunbird (Cinnyris asiaticus) – Observed on multiple occasions, particularly around Masinagudi. Loten’s Sunbird e (Cinnyris lotenius) – Single male observed on the edge of Periyar NP. Little Spiderhunter H (Arachnothera longirostris) – Singles at Periyar NP.

FAIRY-BLUEBIRDS (Irenidae) Asian Fairy-bluebird (Irena puella) – Singles observed poorly at Periyar NP, excellent views of a single on our last morning at Thattekad.

LEAFBIRDS (Chloropseidae) Jerdon’s Leafbird Le (Chloropsis jerdoni) – Single seen briefly at Nagarhole NP. Golden-fronted Leafbird (Chloropsis aurifrons) – Singles observed at Nagarhole NP, Masinagudi, Periyar NP and Thattekad.

WAXBILLS & ALLIES (Estrildidae) White-rumped Munia (Lonchura striata) – Flock of 30 feeding in seeding bamboo at Ranganathittu. Scaly-breasted Munia (Lonchura punctulata) – Singles at Kokkare Bellur and Ooty.

OLD WORLD SPARROWS (Passeridae) House Sparrow (Passer domesticus) – Singles/tens observed on most days of the trip. Yellow-throated Sparrow e (Gymnornis xanthocollis) – Up to 30 birds seen during our full day around Masinagudi.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 27 Southern India, 2020

One of two Nilgiri Pipit from mountain grassland above Munnar © M Breckenridge.

WAGTAILS & PIPITS (Motacillidae) Forest Wagtail (Dendronanthus indicus) – Single birds behind the lodge at Kabini, Nagarhole NP and Valparai. Gray Wagtail (Motacilla cinerea) – Singles on all but a few days of the trip. Western Yellow Wagtail (Motacilla flava) – Surprisingly common along the lake shore at Nagarhole NP and Peryiar NP. White-browed Wagtail e (Motacilla madaraspatensis) – Singles seen on multiple occasions. Typically found close to water ways. Paddyfield Pipit (Anthus rufulus) – Singles along the lake shore at Nagarhole NP and Periyar NP. Nilgiri Pipit E (Anthus nilghiriensis) – Fantastic close looks at a pair for those who made the gruelling climb above Pothamedu. Olive-backed Pipit (Anthus hodgsoni) – Pairs flushed at Nagarhole NP and Cairn Hill in Ooty.

FINCHES, EUPHONIAS & ALLIES (Fringillidae) Common Rosefinch (Carpodacus erythrinus) – Singles in the highlands at Ooty, Valparai and Munnar.

MAMMALS

SQUIRRELS (Sciuridae) E (Ratufa i. indica) – Singles seen each day at Nagarhole NP, Masinagudi and Ooty. [‘Malabar Giant Squirrel’ E (Ratufa i. maxima)] – Singles seen/heard each day from Valparai to Thattekad. Distinguished from the nominate race by an entirely black tail. Grizzled Giant Squirrel e (Ratufa macroura) – A single individual of this very range-restricted observed napping during the heat of the day in a low tree at Chinnar. Indian Palm Squirrel e ( palmarum) – Singles observed on multiple occasions throughout southern India. Jungle Palm Squirrel E (Funambulus tristriatus) – Singles observed on both days around Masinagudi.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 28 Southern India, 2020

CATS (Felidae) Leopard (Panthera pardus) – We were incredibly fortunate to come across a large adult male resting on the ground in Nagarhole NP after just witnessing his mate wander off into the scrub. The male lay only 30 feet from us before eventually getting up and wandering behind our jeep and into the forest after his mate – jaw-dropping stuff! Tiger (Panthera tigris) – A single adult was seen well, if a little distantly, at the other side of a dam one morning in Nagarhole NP. The highlight of our time at Nagarhole came when we came across a stunning seven-year-old female and her three two-month-old cubs drinking at a dam no more than 60 feet from us. We were engrossed for over an hour and were somehow the only jeep in attendance the whole time. A truly unforgettable experience.

MONGOOSES (Herpestidae) Ruddy Mongoose e (Herpestes smithii) – A few singles observed at Nagarhole NP. Stripe-necked Mongoose e (Herpestes viticollis) – Singles observed well at Nagarhole NP and Valparai.

DOGS (Canidae) [Indian Wild Dog] (Cuon alpinus) – We had several excellent encounters with this species during our time in Nagarhole NP. We observed individuals hunting and playing. Some people observed a large pack chasing a barking deer through the tea fields near our accommodation at Valparai.

Two of the six different Dhole individuals we came across in Nagarhole © M Breckenridge.

WEASELS (Mustelidae) Smooth-coated Otter (Lutrogale perspicillata) – We enjoyed great looks at two different families of four on our morning boat trip at Kabini.

FLYING FOXES / FRUIT BATS (Pteropodidae) Indian Flying-fox (Pteropus giganteus) – Tens/hundreds at Ranganathittu and Kabini. Lesser Short-nosed Fruit-Bat (Cynopterus brachyotis) – A group of four observed huddling together inside a tree hollow at Periyar NP.

HORSESHOE BATS (Rhinolophidae) Lesser Woolly Horseshoe-Bat e (Rhinolophus beddomei) – Fantastic looks at a single roosting low down in a fig tree at Periyar NP.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 29 Southern India, 2020

Black-footed were a common sight in Nagarhole NP © M Breckenridge.

OLD WORLD MONKEYS (Cercopithecidae) Southern Plains Gray Langur E (Semnopithecus dussumieri) – Singles/tens around our accommodation at Masinagudi. Black-footed Gray Langur E (Semnopithecus hypoleucos) – Tens observed in the forest each day at Periyar NP. e (Semnopithecus priam) – A single family group observed at the entrance to Chinnar. E (Trachypithecus johni) – Singles/tens of this attractive monkey observed around Valparai and Periyar NP. E (Macaca radiata) – Singles/tens observed on all but a few days of the trip. Lion-tailed Macaque E (Macaca silenus) – We enjoyed awesome looks at three separate parties of this endangered during our time at Valparai.

PIGS (Suidae) Wild Boar (Sus scrofa) – Singles/tens observed each day at Nagarhole NP and Masinagudi.

DEER (Cervidae) Indian Muntjac [Common Barking Deer] (Muntiacus muntjak) – One heard only at Nagarhole NP. Sambar (Cervus unicolor) – Singles observed most days at Nagarhole NP and a herd of seven at Periyar NP. Chital [Spotted Deer] e (Axis axis) – Hundreds each day at Nagarhole NP and tens around our accommodation at Masinagudi.

BUFFALO, SHEEP & GOATS (Bovidae) Nilgiri Tahr E (Hemitragus hylocrius) – We were fortunate to spot two adults and kids of this endangered

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 30 Southern India, 2020 goat on a rocky cliff face as we were descending from the Valparai plateau. (Bos gaurus) – Singles of this huge native bovine observed at Nagarhole NP.

ELEPHANTS (Elephantidae) (Elephas maximus) – Great looks at two females with a calf on one of our boat trips at Nagarhole NP, and an impressive tusker the following day. Two individuals observed near Masinagudi.

This bull Asian Elephant rounded out a fantastic day in Nagarhole. This image shows him dislodging grass in order to eat the new shoots. © M Breckenridge.

REPTILES

CROCODILES (Crocodylidae) (Crocodylus palustris) – Singles seen well at Ranganathittu and a couple on the lake at Nagarhole NP.

CHAMELEONS (Chamaeleonidae) Indian e ( zeylanicus) – Superbly located by Raj Kumar while driving at Masinagudi, allowing everyone good views of this charismatic .

MONITORS (Varanidae) Bengal [Indian] Monitor (Varanus bengalensis) – A young individual at Masinagudi and an adult showing well at Valparai.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 31 Southern India, 2020