DOCSLIB.ORG

Understanding the Lowering of Beaches in Front of Coastal Defence Structures, Stage 2 Technical Note 3

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Understanding the Lowering of Beaches in Front of Coastal Defence Structures, Stage 2 Technical Note 3 PB11207-CVR.qxd 1/9/05 11:42 AM Page 1 Joint Defra/EA Flood and Coastal Erosion Risk Management R&D Programme Understanding the lowering of beaches in front of coastal defence structures, Stage 2 Technical Note 3 R&D Project Record FD1927/PR3 Understanding the Lowering of Beaches in Front of Coastal Defence Structures, Phase 2 Assessment of beach lowering and toe scour 4.5 4 3.5 3 2.5 2 Beach level (mODN) level Beach Level Trend 1.5 1 1962 1966 1970 1974 1 1982 1986 199 958 978 0 Year Technical Note CBS0726/03 Release 3.0 Address and Registered Office: HR Wallingford Ltd. Howbery Park, Wallingford, OXON OX10 8BA Tel: +44 (0) 1491 835381 Fax: +44 (0) 1491 832233 Registered in England No. 2562099. HR Wallingford is a wholly owned subsidiary of HR Wallingford Group Ltd. Understanding the Lowering of Beaches in Front of Coastal Defence Structures, Phase 2 Assessment of beach lowering and toe scour Document Information Understanding the Lowering of Beaches in Front of Coastal Defence Project Structures, Phase 2 Technical subject Assessment of beach lowering and toe scour Client Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs Client Representative Mr Stephen Jenkinson Project No. CBS0726 Technical Note No. CBS0726/03 TN-CBS0726-03_Assessment_beach_lowering_toe_scour_Rel_3- Filename. 0.doc Project Manager Dr J Sutherland Project Sponsor Dr RJS Whitehouse Document History Date Revision Prepared Approved Authorised Notes 14/02/08 3.0 Sutherland Brampton Whitehouse Incorporation of client review and additional work on Bruun rule. Re- released to client. 1/09/06 2.0 Sutherland Brampton Whitehouse Released to client 28/08/06 1.0 Sutherland Brampton Whitehouse Internal review version HR Wallingford accepts no liability for the use by third parties of results or methods presented here. The company also stresses that various sections of this document rely on data supplied by or drawn from third party sources. HR Wallingford accepts no liability for loss or damage suffered by the client or third parties as a result of errors or inaccuracies in such third party data TN CBS0726/03 ii Rev 3.0 Understanding the Lowering of Beaches in Front of Coastal Defence Structures, Phase 2 Assessment of beach lowering and toe scour Contents 1. Introduction ...................................................................................................................... 1 2. Monitoring methods and other data sources ..................................................................... 3 2.1 Small Scale .......................................................................................................... 3 2.1.1 Linear arrays of point sensors ................................................................ 3 2.1.2 Underwater acoustic measurements of the seabed ................................. 5 2.1.3 Measurements of emerged toe levels ..................................................... 5 2.1.4 Measurements of mixing depth .............................................................. 5 2.1.5 Relative merits of small scale monitoring devices ................................. 6 2.2 Medium-scale ...................................................................................................... 7 2.2.1 Cross-shore profile surveys and topographic surveys ............................ 7 2.2.2 Total station ............................................................................................ 7 2.2.3 Kinematic GPS ....................................................................................... 7 2.2.4 Laser scanning systems .......................................................................... 7 2.2.5 Repeated digital photography................................................................. 7 2.2.6 X-band radar........................................................................................... 9 2.3 Large-scale ........................................................................................................ 10 2.3.1 Ordnance Survey Maps ........................................................................ 10 2.3.2 Orthorectified Aerial or Satellite Photos .............................................. 14 2.3.3 Topographic LIDAR ............................................................................ 15 2.3.4 Bathymetric LIDAR ............................................................................. 16 2.3.5 Synthetic Aperture Radar ..................................................................... 16 2.3.6 Advantages and disadvantages of medium and large scale survey techniques ............................................................................................. 16 3. Statistical analysis of beach level data ........................................................................... 18 3.1 Linear analysis of beach level data .................................................................... 18 3.1.1 Introduction .......................................................................................... 18 3.1.2 Usefulness of best-fit linear trend as predictor ..................................... 38 3.1.3 Gaussian distribution of elevations ...................................................... 42 3.1.4 Number of surveys in each year ........................................................... 46 3.1.5 Seasonal variations in beach levels at the toe of a structure ................ 48 3.2 Advanced linear analysis of beach level data .................................................... 50 3.2.1 Wavelet analysis ................................................................................... 50 3.2.2 Empirical Orthogonal Function (EOF) analysis ................................... 50 3.2.3 Canonical Correlation Analysis (CCA) ................................................ 51 3.2.4 Principal Oscillation Pattern (POP)...................................................... 51 3.3 Non-linear analyses of beach level data ............................................................ 51 3.3.1 Singular Spectrum Analysis ................................................................. 51 3.3.2 Fractal Analysis .................................................................................... 52 3.3.3 Neural Networks .................................................................................. 52 3.4 Shoreline or beach volume? .............................................................................. 52 3.5 Estimating shoreline change from maps and aerial photographs ...................... 54 3.5.1 Errors in OS County series maps ......................................................... 56 3.5.2 Errors in aerial surveys ......................................................................... 60 3.5.3 Rms Uncertainty of shoreline estimates in the UK .............................. 61 4. Process-based models ..................................................................................................... 63 4.1 Introduction ....................................................................................................... 63 4.2 One Line models ................................................................................................ 63 TN CBS0726/03 iii Rev 3.0 Understanding the Lowering of Beaches in Front of Coastal Defence Structures, Phase 2 Assessment of beach lowering and toe scour 4.3 Coastal Profile Models....................................................................................... 63 4.4 Coastal Area Models .......................................................................................... 64 4.5 systems model: SCAPE ..................................................................................... 64 4.6 Flood and Coastal Defence national overview of coastal erosion potential ...... 65 4.7 USGS Coastal Vulnerability Index .................................................................... 66 4.8 Storm erosion potential index ............................................................................ 68 4.9 Stochastic modelling .......................................................................................... 68 5. Geomorphological analyses ............................................................................................ 70 5.1 Sediment Budget ................................................................................................ 70 5.2 Futurecoast ......................................................................................................... 70 5.3 Eurosion ............................................................................................................. 71 6. Parametric equilibrium models ....................................................................................... 72 6.1 Equilibrium Beach Profile ................................................................................. 72 6.2 Bruun rule for coastal retreat ............................................................................. 72 7. Predicting bed levels at different timescales .................................................................. 75 7.1 Predicting bed levels at a scale of tides and storms ........................................... 75 7.1.1 Monitoring ............................................................................................ 75 7.1.2 Process-based modelling ...................................................................... 75 7.1.3 Empirical Scour Predictors ................................................................... 75 7.2 Predicting bed levels at the scale of weeks and seasons
Load more

Recommended publications
  • Ocean Shore Management Plan
    Ocean Shore Management Plan Oregon Parks and Recreation Department January 2005 Ocean Shore Management Plan Oregon Parks and Recreation Department January 2005 Oregon Parks and Recreation Department Planning Section 725 Summer Street NE Suite C Salem Oregon 97301 Kathy Schutt: Project Manager Contributions by OPRD staff: Michelle Michaud Terry Bergerson Nancy Niedernhofer Jean Thompson Robert Smith Steve Williams Tammy Baumann Coastal Area and Park Managers Table of Contents Planning for Oregon’s Ocean Shore: Executive Summary .......................................................................... 1 Chapter One Introduction.................................................................................................................. 9 Chapter Two Ocean Shore Management Goals.............................................................................19 Chapter Three Balancing the Demands: Natural Resource Management .......................................23 Chapter Four Balancing the Demands: Cultural/Historic Resource Management .........................29 Chapter Five Balancing the Demands: Scenic Resource Management.........................................33 Chapter Six Balancing the Demands: Recreational Use and Management .................................39 Chapter Seven Beach Access............................................................................................................57 Chapter Eight Beach Safety .............................................................................................................71
    [Show full text]
  • Characterisation and Prediction of Large-Scale, Long-Term Change of Coastal Geomorphological Behaviours: Final Science Report
    Characterisation and prediction of large-scale, long-term change of coastal geomorphological behaviours: Final science report Science Report: SC060074/SR1 Product code: SCHO0809BQVL-E-P The Environment Agency is the leading public body protecting and improving the environment in England and Wales. It’s our job to make sure that air, land and water are looked after by everyone in today’s society, so that tomorrow’s generations inherit a cleaner, healthier world. Our work includes tackling flooding and pollution incidents, reducing industry’s impacts on the environment, cleaning up rivers, coastal waters and contaminated land, and improving wildlife habitats. This report is the result of research commissioned by the Environment Agency’s Science Department and funded by the joint Environment Agency/Defra Flood and Coastal Erosion Risk Management Research and Development Programme. Published by: Author(s): Environment Agency, Rio House, Waterside Drive, Richard Whitehouse, Peter Balson, Noel Beech, Alan Aztec West, Almondsbury, Bristol, BS32 4UD Brampton, Simon Blott, Helene Burningham, Nick Tel: 01454 624400 Fax: 01454 624409 Cooper, Jon French, Gregor Guthrie, Susan Hanson, www.environment-agency.gov.uk Robert Nicholls, Stephen Pearson, Kenneth Pye, Kate Rossington, James Sutherland, Mike Walkden ISBN: 978-1-84911-090-7 Dissemination Status: © Environment Agency – August 2009 Publicly available Released to all regions All rights reserved. This document may be reproduced with prior permission of the Environment Agency. Keywords: Coastal geomorphology, processes, systems, The views and statements expressed in this report are management, consultation those of the author alone. The views or statements expressed in this publication do not necessarily Research Contractor: represent the views of the Environment Agency and the HR Wallingford Ltd, Howbery Park, Wallingford, Oxon, Environment Agency cannot accept any responsibility for OX10 8BA, 01491 835381 such views or statements.
    [Show full text]
  • A Report on the Guano-Producing Birds of Peru [“Informe Sobre Aves Guaneras”]
    PACIFIC COOPERATIVE STUDIES UNIT UNIVERSITY OF HAWAI`I AT MĀNOA Dr. David C. Duffy, Unit Leader Department of Botany 3190 Maile Way, St. John #408 Honolulu, Hawai’i 96822 Technical Report 197 A report on the guano-producing birds of Peru [“Informe sobre Aves Guaneras”] July 2018* *Original manuscript completed1942 William Vogt1 with translation and notes by David Cameron Duffy2 1 Deceased Associate Director of the Division of Science and Education of the Office of the Coordinator in Inter-American Affairs. 2 Director, Pacific Cooperative Studies Unit, Department of Botany, University of Hawai‘i at Manoa Honolulu, Hawai‘i 96822, USA PCSU is a cooperative program between the University of Hawai`i and U.S. National Park Service, Cooperative Ecological Studies Unit. Organization Contact Information: Pacific Cooperative Studies Unit, Department of Botany, University of Hawai‘i at Manoa 3190 Maile Way, St. John 408, Honolulu, Hawai‘i 96822, USA Recommended Citation: Vogt, W. with translation and notes by D.C. Duffy. 2018. A report on the guano-producing birds of Peru. Pacific Cooperative Studies Unit Technical Report 197. University of Hawai‘i at Mānoa, Department of Botany. Honolulu, HI. 198 pages. Key words: El Niño, Peruvian Anchoveta (Engraulis ringens), Guanay Cormorant (Phalacrocorax bougainvillii), Peruvian Booby (Sula variegate), Peruvian Pelican (Pelecanus thagus), upwelling, bird ecology behavior nesting and breeding Place key words: Peru Translated from the surviving Spanish text: Vogt, W. 1942. Informe elevado a la Compañia Administradora del Guano par el ornitólogo americano, Señor William Vogt, a la terminación del contracto de tres años que con autorización del Supremo Gobierno celebrara con la Compañia, con el fin de que llevara a cabo estudios relativos a la mejor forma de protección de las aves guaneras y aumento de la produción de las aves guaneras.
    [Show full text]
  • New York Commercial Fisherman Ocean Use Mapping
    New York Commercial Fisherman Ocean Use Mapping Prepared by the Cornell Cooperative Extension Marine Program John Scotti, Jacqueline Stent, Kristin Gerbino For New York State Department of State Final Report New York Commercial Fisherman Ocean Use Mapping Report Sections: Acknowledgements Project Summary Project Goals Project Work Components Commercial Fisheries Overview Attachments 1, 2 & 3 0 Acknowledgements Cornell Cooperative Extension (CCE) gratefully thanks all who contributed to this project. This would include the ninety Commercial fishermen and For-Hire boatmen that completed the interview and survey process. The fishing activity maps provided by these stakeholders were the basis of the comprehensive GIS maps that were created. CCE gives special thanks and appreciation to New York State Department of State (NYSDOS) Greg Capobianco and staff for providing project support and development of the comprehensive GIS maps for both qualitative and quantitative data. CCE owes thanks to Bonnie Brady, Executive Director of the Long Island Commercial Fishermen’s Association, Kathy Heinlein of the Captree Boatmen’s Association, and Inlet Seafood in Montauk who gave of their time and knowledge to better study results. We thank Dave Beutel of the Rhode Island Coastal Management Resource Council and Tiffany Smythe from Rhode Island Sea Grant who shared their experiences in the development of the Rhode Island Ocean SAMP document, which helped guide our efforts. Finally, this project could not have been completed without the significant contributions of all the above named and many others not mentioned. CCE is solely responsible for the reported project findings. 1 Project Summary New York State Department of State (NYSDOS) is amending its Coastal Management Program (CMP), under the authority of the federal Coastal Zone Management Act (CZMA) of 1972, to appropriately site offshore wind energy facilities and provide greater protection for the habitats that support New York’s ocean industries.
    [Show full text]
  • Suitability of Remote Sensing for Coastal Monitoring
    Suitability of remote sensing for Coastal Monitoring Proposed Project: Strategic coastal monitoring is essential in determining the long-term trends and changes in beach volume and morphology. However, restricted funding means that along low-risk coastlines, the frequencies of surveys are not high enough to directly link beach change to dynamic hydrodynamic conditions. Remote sensing technologies, including Lidar and satellite data products, are often suggested as alternative sources of data. The use of these technologies may allow higher temporal frequency, albeit at a lower spatial resolution. However, a systematic assessment of the data is required to determine its suitability. Aim: To assess whether remote sensing data are of sufficient resolution to allow calculation of beach volume or morphology to sufficient certainty that they be used in conjunction with CCO monitoring data to allow higher temporal resolution beach volume calculations. Objectives: a) Literature review of potential technologies and their strengths and limitations b) Using suitable test areas in the SCOPAC region, perform an assessment of available remote sensing data, with comparison to CCO topographic data specifications. https://gisgeography.com/how-to-download-sentinel-satellite-data/ https://scihub.copernicus.eu/dhus/#/home b) Calculation of beach volume from remote sensing data, and an assessment of accuracy using direct comparison to CCO derived beach volumes. c) Assessment of potential for increased temporal frequency of beach volume: is the data suitable, is the frequency high enough to make a significant difference, and what are the limitations of the approach. Deliverables: Guidance on the suitability of remote sensing techniques for beach volume calculation. Development of methodology for combining the data sources.
    [Show full text]
  • Download Document
    Effects of regional wetland restoration on the Alviso Shoals of South San Francisco Bay: pre-restoration assessment of shorebird and invertebrate populations L. Arriana Brand, Isa Woo, Ashley Smith, Lacy Smith, Stacy Moskal, and John Y. Takekawa U.S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY, WESTERN ECOLOGICAL RESEARCH CENTER, San Francisco Bay Estuary Field Station, 505 Azuar Drive, Vallejo, CA 94592 Please cite as: Brand, L. A., I. Woo, A. Smith, L. Smith, S. Moskal, and J. Y. Takekawa. 2011. Effects of regional wetland restoration on the Alviso Shoals of South San Francisco Bay: pre-restoration assessment of shorebird and invertebrate populations. Data Summary Report, U. S. Geological Survey, Western Ecological Research Center, Vallejo, CA. 49 pp. Effects of regional wetland restoration on the Alviso Shoals of South San Francisco Bay: pre-restoration assessment of shorebird and invertebrate populations **Do not use data from this report for scientific publication without permission from the authors** EXECUTIVE SUMMARY The San Francisco Bay is a designated site of Hemispheric Significance for shorebirds in large part due to its tidal mudflats that serve as the principal foraging resource. Predicted losses of 32 to 50% of current mudflat area with 50 to 90% conversion of salt ponds to tidal marsh in the South Bay Salt Pond Restoration Project could impact migratory shorebirds. Our goal was to evaluate communities of benthic invertebrates and shorebirds on the Alviso mudflat prior to breaching Pond A6 to serve as the baseline for future assessments of potential impacts. We sampled benthic cores at 36 locations in 3 regions of the Alviso shoals monthly from June to November 2010 to classify pre-restoration characteristics of invertebrate densities by region, distance from shore, and month.
    [Show full text]
  • Tide 1 Tides Are the Rise and Fall of Sea Levels Caused by the Combined
    Tide 1 Tide The Bay of Fundy at Hall's Harbour, The Bay of Fundy at Hall's Harbour, Nova Scotia during high tide Nova Scotia during low tide Tides are the rise and fall of sea levels caused by the combined effects of the gravitational forces exerted by the Moon and the Sun and the rotation of the Earth. Most places in the ocean usually experience two high tides and two low tides each day (semidiurnal tide), but some locations experience only one high and one low tide each day (diurnal tide). The times and amplitude of the tides at the coast are influenced by the alignment of the Sun and Moon, by the pattern of tides in the deep ocean (see figure 4) and by the shape of the coastline and near-shore bathymetry.[1] [2] [3] Most coastal areas experience two high and two low tides per day. The gravitational effect of the Moon on the surface of the Earth is the same when it is directly overhead as when it is directly underfoot. The Moon orbits the Earth in the same direction the Earth rotates on its axis, so it takes slightly more than a day—about 24 hours and 50 minutes—for the Moon to return to the same location in the sky. During this time, it has passed overhead once and underfoot once, so in many places the period of strongest tidal forcing is 12 hours and 25 minutes. The high tides do not necessarily occur when the Moon is overhead or underfoot, but the period of the forcing still determines the time between high tides.
    [Show full text]
  • Geophysical Investigation Into the Internal Dynamics of Moving Lahars
    Copyright is owned by the Author of the thesis. Permission is given for a copy to be downloaded by an individual for the purpose of research and private study only. The thesis may not be reproduced elsewhere without the permission of the Author. GEOPHYSICAL INVESTIGATION INTO THE INTERNAL DYNAMICS OF MOVING LAHARS A thesis presented in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Earth Science at Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand Susan Elizabeth Cole Department of Soil and Earth Sciences 2011 Frontispiece. Aerial view downstream overlooking the Tangiwai rail (foreground) and road (backgound) bridges during the Crater Lake-breakout lahar from Mt. Ruapehu, New Zealand, on 18th March 2007. The inundated memorial to the 151 people who died in the 1953 Tangiwai Disaster, caused by a similar style lahar, is located between the two bridges. (Photograph courtesy of H.J.R. Keys.) Abstract Lahars and other mass flows are highly hazardous phenomena that can pose great risk to areas in their path. Due to their often unpredictable onsets, scientific observations are limited. In addition, the erosive capabilities of a lahar mean that the most com- monly used monitoring and sampling methods, such as load cells and bedload traps, are often damaged early in the flow. The cost of repair and maintenance of these instru- mentation prohibits comprehensive coverage of each channel that might be at risk from lahars. The development of seismic sensors as an alternative monitoring method could prove effective as they do not require contact with a flow and are therefore less at risk from damage.
    [Show full text]
  • Appendix C SUPPORTING INFORMATION
    CAPE COD WATER RESOURCES RESTORATION PROJECT Final Watershed Plan− Areawide Environmental Impact Statement Appendix C SUPPORTING INFORMATION CONTENTS Appendix C-1. Air Quality Conformity Analysis C-1 Appendix C-2. Massachusetts Category 5 Waters C-5 Appendix C-3. Summary of Potential Essential Fish Habitat Off Cape Cod C-9 Appendix C-4. CCWRRP Essential Fish Habitat Assessment C-27 Appendix C-5. Threatened and Endangered Species in Barnstable County and C-45 Adjacent Coastal Waters November 2006 CAPE COD WATER RESOURCES RESTORATION PROJECT Final Watershed Plan− Areawide Environmental Impact Statement Appendix C-1. Air Quality Conformity Analysis Calculation Procedures for Determining Air Emissions In order to evaluate the applicability of this Clean Air Act statute, annual air emissions were calculated for each of the three mitigation tasks. Air emissions were estimated based on equipment types, engine sizes, and estimated hours of operation. The calculations made were of a "screening" nature using factors provided for diesel engines in the USEPA AP-42 Emission Factor document (EPA 1995). The emission factors used were expressed in lb/hp-hr. The factors utilized were as follows: • 0.00668 lb CO/hp-hr • 0.031 lb NOx/hp-hr • 0.00072 lb PM10/hp-hr • 0.00205 lb SO2/hp-hr Emissions were calculated by simply multiplying the usage hours by the equipment horsepower and then by emission factor. To be complete, emissions were calculated for the four primary internal combustion engine related air pollutants. Total project emissions were calculated by adding the number of specific projects anticipated over a given 12-month period.
    [Show full text]
  • Natural and Cultural Resources
    PUBLIC REVIEW DRAFT Chapter 3 - Natural and Cultural Resources 1 Chapter 3 - Natural and Cultural Resources 2 3 4 Introduction 5 6 This chapter provides background information on the natural and human environment for the 7 park units and is included to provide context for planning and managing park use. This 8 information was considered when making the management and facility recommendations in 9 this plan. 10 11 12 Natural Environment 13 14 Geology 15 16 Four general geologic units exist in the area. The oldest rocks, along the southern shore of 17 Kachemak Bay, are composed of the 1) plutonic core and 2) extrusive portions of an 18 intraoceanic island arc of Jurassic age separated from the somewhat younger McHugh 19 Complex and Valdez Group that form the Chugach Mountains, composed of 3) highly 20 deformed trench-fill, trench-slope, and ocean-basin deposits largely of Cretaceous age. 21 These are discontinuously covered by 4) glacial, colluvial, alluvial and beach deposits 22 derived from the underlying material (See Map 3 - General Geology on page 19 of this 23 chapter). 24 25 Both glacial and tectonic forces actively shaped the present features of Kachemak Bay. 26 Remnants of huge Pleistocene glaciers are still present, with 15 glaciers contributing melt 27 waters into the bay. Kachemak Bay itself was formed by a glacier, which left behind a 28 terminal moraine – the Homer Spit. Glacial valleys, outwash plains and sediment dominate 29 the morphology of the bay, as seen in the shape and bathymetry of Kachemak Bay. These 30 glaciers occupy a landscape framework formed during shortening and accretion of terranes 31 onto the North American plate.
    [Show full text]
  • Natural and Social Features of Monmouth County
    NATURAL and CULTURAL FEATURES of MONMOUTH COUNTY Background Reading for Environmental Health Investigations MCHD Rev. 07/29/13 INTRODUCTION Monmouth County in central New Jersey is entirely located within the Inner and Outer Coastal Plain, part of the Atlantic Plain geology that extends 2200 miles from Cape Cod to the Yucatan Peninsula (USGS, 2003). There are 53 municipalities within a land area of 471.74 square miles of highly erodible soils that were originally deposited as runoff from the slopes of the Appalachians (MCPB, 2005). Some County History Following Henry Hudson’s exploration of the Sandy Hook shoreline in 1609, Monmouth County was predominantly under Dutch influence from about 1614 to 1664 (Colts Neck Historical Society, 1965). The New Jersey coastline had previously been sited and claimed for England (Giovanni Caboto, 1497), France (Giovanni de Verrazano, 1524), and Spain (Estevan Gomez, 1525); and had been Scheyichbi, Long Land Water, to the Lenape Indian Nation (Colts Neck Historical Society, 1965). Four major trails used by Native Americans terminated at the Navesink River: the Achkinkeshacky (Hackensack) Trail from the Hudson River; the Minisink Trail from the Great Lakes region; the Raritan-Lopotcong Trail from the west, and the Crosweeksung Trail from the southwest. This last trail entered NJ at Trenton, passed through Freehold to the Yellow Brook at Colts Neck, where it split into a northern path to Tinton Falls and Red Bank, and a southern path to the Shark River and Manasquan (NFECA, 2009). The first settlers in Middletown, the oldest settlement in NJ, are reported to have arrived as early as 1613, seven years before the Pilgrims landed in Massachusetts; Middletown was originally called Shaquaset by the Lenape (Boyd, 2004; Mandeville, 1927).
    [Show full text]
  • Oceanography of the British Columbia Coast
    CANADIAN SPECIAL PUBLICATION OF FISHERIES AND AQUATIC SCIENCES 56 DFO - L bra y / MPO B bliothèque Oceanography RI II I 111 II I I II 12038889 of the British Columbia Coast Cover photograph West Coast Moresby Island by Dr. Pat McLaren, Pacific Geoscience Centre, Sidney, B.C. CANADIAN SPECIAL PUBLICATION OF FISHERIES AND AQUATIC SCIENCES 56 Oceanography of the British Columbia Coast RICHARD E. THOMSON Department of Fisheries and Oceans Ocean Physics Division Institute of Ocean Sciences Sidney, British Columbia DEPARTMENT OF FISHERIES AND OCEANS Ottawa 1981 ©Minister of Supply and Services Canada 1981 Available from authorized bookstore agents and other bookstores, or you may send your prepaid order to the Canadian Government Publishing Centre Supply and Service Canada, Hull, Que. K1A 0S9 Make cheques or money orders payable in Canadian funds to the Receiver General for Canada A deposit copy of this publication is also available for reference in public librairies across Canada Canada: $19.95 Catalog No. FS41-31/56E ISBN 0-660-10978-6 Other countries:$23.95 ISSN 0706-6481 Prices subject to change without notice Printed in Canada Thorn Press Ltd. Correct citation for this publication: THOMSON, R. E. 1981. Oceanography of the British Columbia coast. Can. Spec. Publ. Fish. Aquat. Sci. 56: 291 p. for Justine and Karen Contents FOREWORD BACKGROUND INFORMATION Introduction Acknowledgments xi Abstract/Résumé xii PART I HISTORY AND NATURE OF THE COAST Chapter 5. Upwelling: Bringing Cold Water to the Surface Chapter 1. Historical Setting Causes of Upwelling 79 Origin of the Oceans 1 Localized Effects 82 Drifting Continents 2 Climate 83 Evolution of the Coast 6 Fishing Grounds 83 Early Exploration 9 El Nifio 83 Chapter 2.
    [Show full text]