BUYING GUIDE

Perfect for the holidays—a baker’s dozen of California sparkling rated 90 points or higher.

2 | CALIFORNIA 38 | FRANCE

28 | OREGON 46 | ITALY

32 | NEW YORK 57 |

35 | OTHER U.S. 63 | GETTY IMAGES / 35 | AUSTRALIA 71 | SPIRITS

36 | NEW ZEALAND 73 | BEER

FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, CLICK ON: WineMag.com PHOTO ANDREW PATERSON WineMag.comWineMag.com | | 1 1 DECEMBERDECEMBER 15, 15, 2010 2010 | |WineMag.com WineMag.com | |89 1 BUYING GUIDE

California UNDERSTUDIES NO LONGER or years, California sparkling wines were ously refined , but so are the wines from seen as somehow second tier, as the wines Mumm Napa and Chandon. Their parent com- a certain segment of the population panies in Europe can justifiably be proud of their reached for only when the price and California progeny. F Vine Cliff 2007 quantity of needed for an Beside sparklers, Contributing Editor Steve (Oakville); $75. Pretty much as good as occasion exceeded the contents of their pocket- Heimoff reviewed close to 300 other California 98 Napa Cabernet gets. Shows the blackberries, black books. Producers capitalized on the Champagne wines for this issue, including top Pinot Noirs, currants, blueberries and spicy plums of Oakville brand, labeling their wines—with the complicity Cabernets and . These warming reds make and scads of spices, and the tannin-acid structure is, of the BATF (now the TTB)—as California for perfect wintertime sipping. Other domestic in a word, superb. The elaboration is just about Champagne. Thankfully, those days have largely reviews this month include wines from Oregon, perfect, adding a tasteful layer of smoky, buttered been left behind, as the quality of California’s New York, New Mexico and Virginia. toast. The finish goes on and on. Editors’ Choice. sparkling wines has increased at a seemingly International coverage begins with a smatter- ever-increasing rate. ing of Australian sparkling wines, then moves on Vine Cliff 2007 16 Rows Cabernet The wines now deservedly stand on their own, to New Zealand before heading to Europe for Sauvignon (Oakville); $150. A true and in this issue they take center stage. Although sections on the latest super Tuscans and French, 97 sensation. Shows the richness and concentration many of the names associated with the wines are Portuguese and Spanish releases. Reviews that you want in a great Napa Cab, but also a structure Old World, the wines are anything but, boasting didn’t make it into print may be accessed via our that lifts it above the soft, bold New World fruit allied to skillful winemak- online database at buyingguide.winemag.com. mushy wines that are so ing. Gloria Ferrer’s Carneros Cuvée is a glori- Cheers! — JOE CZERWINSKI prevalent. There’s real feels refined, fancy and elegant, with delicious tannin and acid architec- SPARKLING WINES raspberry, lime and toast flavors. The blend is ture framing the opulent 75% and 25% . —S.H. blackberry, black cur- Gloria Ferrer 1999 Carneros rant, mineral and cedar 95 Cuvée (Carneros); $50. This late- Mumm Napa NV Brut Rosé (Napa flavors, and the finish is disgorged wine has been released at the age of 93 Valley); $24. What a roll Mumm Napa dry, dry, dry. Every sip 11 years. It’s a beautiful wine, notable especially is on with their new releases. This blush wine offers something differ- for the ultrafine feeling of the mousse, or bub- shows the level of richness and elegance the win- ent as it changes in the bles. So refined and silky. Rich too are the fla- ery has achieved lately. Made from 85% Pinot glass. A world-class wine that defines elegance, vors, in limes, strawberries, toasty lees and Noir and 15% Chardonnay, it has deliciously for- power and complexity. Should age effortlessly for at minerals. A spectacular that has ward flavors of raspberries, strawberries, ginger- least a decade. many years of development ahead. Editors’ snap cookies and vanilla lemon custard, with the Choice. —S.H. bubbly froth and tart yeastiness of a fine sparkling wine. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Mumm Napa 2002 DVX (Napa 94 Valley); $55. DVX is Mumm Napa’s Mumm Napa 2006 Blanc de top of the line bottling. This ’02 is a 50- 93 Blancs (Napa Valley); $30. Made 50 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, making from 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Gris, this it a brut. It’s very high in acidity, and the bub- lovely Blanc de Blancs brims with vanilla cream, bles are tiny and refined, giving it the ultra- lime and pear aromas and flavors, with the Dutton-Goldfield 2008 Dutton smooth mouthfeel you want in a superior yeasty, baked bread dough toastiness that mark 96 Ranch Rued Chardonnay sparkling wine. The raspberry, lime and pear fla- the best sparkling wines. It’s basically dry and (Green Valley); $45. This vineyard has proved vors are rich, but subtle, reined in by yeastiness quite high in acidity, which gives it a brisk, clean itself for so many years that it’s practically a guar- and a tangy minerality. Drink this luxurious bub- finish. Drink this fine bubbly now and for the antee of greatness. This 2008 is a real stunner. It’s bly now and over the next 10 years. Editors’ next 6–8 years. —S.H. so rich and exotic, so balanced and dry, so clean. Choice. —S.H. Dazzles with pear, pineapple, lychee, roasted Chandon NV Étoile Rosé (Napa- hazelnut, crème brûlée, buttered toast, honey and Iron Horse 2005 Ultra Brut 92 Sonoma); $50. With a deep, shiny spice flavors, wrapped into a creamy smooth 93 (Green Valley); $50. This is the dri- color of copper and peach blush, you can tell mouthfeel. Brilliant and compelling. Drink now. est of Iron Horse’s new releases, but it still has a this sparkling wine will be somewhat full-bodied honeyed richness even though the residual and rich. And it is. Made from Chardonnay and sugar is a comparatively low half a percent. It Continued on page 99

2|WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 Hall 2007 Kathryn Hall Cabernet Gloria Ferrer 1999 Carneros Cuvée Vine Cliff 2008 Proprietress Reserve 96 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $80. One 95 (Carneros); $50. This late-disgorged 95 Chardonnay (Carneros); $60. It’s easy of the richest Cabernets of the vintage. Amazingly wine has been released at the age of 11 years. It’s to get ripe fruit in California and then plaster it in soft and velvety in the mouth, yet there’s a solid grip a beautiful wine, notable especially for the ultra- oak, but what’s so difficult to achieve is the crisp, of acidity and tannins that balance the richness. The fine feeling of the mousse, or bubbles. So refined minerally structure this wine displays. It’s rich in flavors are extraordinary, ranging from blackberry and silky. Rich too are the flavors, in limes, straw- pineapple cream, Key lime pie, Meyer lemon sor- and cherry-pie filling through currant liqueur and berries, toasty lees and minerals. A spectacular bet, golden mango and vanilla oak flavors, but milk chocolate to leather. So decadent now, it’s hard sparkling wine that has many years of develop- achieves balanced elegance with crisp acidity and a to resist, but should develop for 4–6 years. ment ahead. Editors’ Choice. wonderful stony purity. Only 349 cases produced.

Mazzei 2007 Castello di Poggio al Tesoro 2007 Dedicato a 95 Fonterutoli Siepi (Toscana); $120. Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2007 96 Walter (Toscana); Siepi is a gorgeous super Tuscan blend of San- 94 Palácio da Bacalhôa (Península de $90. An impressive wine from an impressive giovese and that exhibits richness, inten- Setúbal); $49. A selection from the Quinta da vintage, this Tuscan expression of Cabernet sity and purity. This is a luscious and opulent Bacalhôa vineyard, this sumptuous wine layers Franc opens with opulent fruit notes of black- expression with deep aromas of cherry, black- the darkest fruit flavors with a structure that is berry, prune, plum and ripe cherry backed by berry, chocolate, espresso bean and spice. The sold, dense and powerful. Juicy plums, licorice clove, pepper, leather and cigar box. The tannins finish is super long and delicious. Imported by and a firm, stalky edge go with wood aging and are firm and silky and the fade is long and vel- Palm Bay International. Cellar Selection. bone-dry tannins. Age for 5–6 years. Imported vety. Imported by Winebow. Cellar Selection. by Admiral Imports. Cellar Selection.

Dutton-Goldfield 2008 Dutton 95 Ranch Freestone Hill Vineyard Vine Cliff 2007 Pickett Road Vine- Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); $58. 95 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Cecchi 2007 Coevo (Toscana); $58. Extraordinary for how drinkable it is right now, Valley); $150. The most tannic and closed of 94 Cecchi’s Coevo is a wonderful super and for how it will evolve. Shows the crisp acidity Vine Cliff’s magnificent array of ’07 Cabernets. It’s Tuscan blend that costs half as much as the other and minerality of this cool-climate vineyard, with hard, with a bite of acidity, but it doesn’t take cult wines in this elite category. The wine is rich, rich flavors of raspberries, cherry liqueur, cola, much for the richness to explode. Blackberries, opulent, intense and extremely focused in terms exotic spices, vanilla, buttered cinnamon toast black currants, dark chocolate, butterscotch, sweet of its aromatic delivery and the mouthfeel is and smoky sandalwood. Yet the tannic integrity cinnamon spice, the list goes on and on. So rich long, textured and rich. Imported by Banfi Vint- should help it change in fascinating ways over the and decadent, you can enjoy it now, but it will ners. Editors’ Choice. next six years. Decant for several hours. gather momentum over the next 6–8 years.

WineMag.com | 3 BUYING GUIDE

Novy 2008 94 Rosella’s Vineyard (Santa Lucia High- lands); $33. Syrah master Novy has given us a beautiful Syrah to drink now with rich lamb, beef Castello di Bolgheri 2007 Red (Bol- and pork dishes, or 93 gheri Superiore); $60. This is a pris- perhaps a Latin- tine and elegant Bolgheri Superiore with a Hall 2007 Ellie’s Cabernet Sauvi- inspired black bean soup. It’s rich, softly lush and particularly focused aromatic profile. The blend 94 gnon (Napa Valley); $55. Amazingly dry, and the blackberry, currant, mocha and san- is 60-20-20 Cab Sauvignon, Cab Franc and Mer- delicious and soft. Defines the modern Napa dalwood flavors have exciting edges of salty cured lot. A green, herbal note comes through. You’ll Cabernet style, with the tasteful elegance Hall meats and freshly crushed black pepper. Really also recognize elements of caper, green olive, wines are known for. With 20% Merlot, it displays exquisite, but only 263 cases were produced. mineral, tobacco and exotic fruit. It shows thick dazzlingly rich flavors of blackberries, black cher- fruit and dense concentration as well. Imported ries, red currants and mocha, with a savory note of by New England Wine and Spirits Inc. bacon. Now–2013.

Rodney Strong 2007 Symmetry 94 Red Meritage (Alexander Valley); Iron Horse 2005 Ultra Brut (Green $55. A great Bordeaux-style wine that can stand 93 Valley); $50. This is the driest of Iron Krupp Brothers 2006 The Doctor proudly next to Napa bottlings that cost far more. Horse’s new releases, but it still has a honeyed 94 (Napa Valley); $75. Napa It’s mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, with the other four richness even though the residual sugar is a com- hardly gets more delicious than this. It’s so soft and permitted Meritage varieties, and there seems to paratively low half a percent. It feels refined, velvety, so rich in chocolate, blackberry and smoky be lots of new, sweetly toasted oak. The blackberry, fancy and elegant, with delicious raspberry, lime oak flavors, that you can’t resist sip after sip. Really cherry, red currant, mocha and bacon flavors are and toast flavors. The blend is 75% Pinot Noir defines the modern Napa style. The blend is Tem- delicious, but even better is the tannic structure. and 25% Chardonnay. pranillo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and , It’s soft and alluring enough to drink now. and the were grown on the ’s estate vineyard in the heart of Atlas Peak.

Poggio al Tesoro 2007 Sondraia Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2008 93 (Bolgheri); $50. Merlot and Cabs 93 Quinta da Bacalhôa Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc are the base of this ripe, Sauvignon (Península de Setúbal); $30. dense and rich Bolgheri blend. The intensity is Mazzei 2007 Tenuta Belguardo This Cabernet-based wine is supremely elegant. impressive and so is the overall density and persist- 94 (Maremma); $70. You’ll love the tones It brings together new wood flavors, firm and dry ence of the finish. Pair this wine with hearty of rich chocolate, leather, berry fruit, cassis and Cabernet tannins and powerful concentration. It dishes, such as sausage and slow-cooked lentils. vanilla. All those aromas are backed by dense, has great depth of flavor; very complex, the acid- Imported by Winebow. rich extraction and smooth softness. Imported by ity promising good aging. Imported by Admiral Palm Bay International. Imports. Editors’ Choice.

4|WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 EOS 2008 Tears of 92 Dew Late Moscato (Paso Robles); $22. Another beautifully rich, satisfying Tears of Dew from EOS. This is one of California’s most consis- tently successful dessert wines. The ’08 is very sweet and opulent in honey, apricot jam, orange sorbet and crème brûlée flavors. So easy DFJ Vinhos 2007 Grand’Arte Spe- to drink, and the alcohol is refresh- Terra d’Oro NV Port 92 cial Selection Touriga Nacional ingly low at 11%. Editors’ Choice. 93 (Amador County); $24. The first (Lisboa); $15. An impressive and elegant wine. duty of a Port-style wine is to be dazzlingly rich It has a delicious line of juicy red and black berry and sweet yet balanced in acidity, and this fruits, powered with a fine balance of acidity and bottling is all that. Waves of blackberry jam, cassis firm, chunky tannins. With good potential, give and dark chocolate are brightened with zesty the wine 3–4 years. Imported by Dionysos acidity, and the sweetness level is very high. Imports Inc. Cellar Selection. Editors’ Choice.

Dutton-Goldfield 2008 Dutton Kunde 2007 Reserve Century Vines 92 Ranch Sanchietti Vineyard Pinot 92 Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley); $30. Chandon NV Étoile Brut (Sonoma- Noir (Green Valley); $58. Notable for its firm These old vines are famous for concentration, and 92 Napa); $40. Made from Chardonnay minerality and acidity and distinguished mouth- this Zin surely is one of the most intense wines of and Pinot Noir, with a splash of Pinot Meunier, feel. Could be a little richer, but offers intricate the vintage. It’s huge in wild berry, currant, licorice, this bubbly is, in a word, delicious. It’s so easy to raspberry, sour cherry candy, blueberry, cola and dark chocolate, bacon and exotic spice flavors that drink, you can’t put the glass down. Shows classic sandalwood flavors. Might blossom over the next go on and on. For all the richness, it’s wonderfully Champagne structure, with refined bubbles and few years. Drink now–2013. balanced, with fine tannins and a crisp backbone of brisk acidity. But the raspberry, strawberry, lime acidity. Drink now. Editors’ Choice. and apple flavors are pure California.

Dutton-Goldfield 2008 Dutton 92 Ranch Chardonnay (Russian River Valley); $35. Beautiful and likeable for its dry- Poggio al Tesoro 2008 Mediterra Chandon NV Étoile Rosé (Napa- ness, crisp minerality, and the sleek, clean mouth- 92 (Toscana); $25. This blend of Syrah, 92 Sonoma); $50. With a deep, shiny feel. The fruit suggests oak-inspired pears, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon is a unique wine color of copper and peach blush, you can tell this oranges and citrons. This elegant quaff gets bet- that shows quality fruit aromas of wild berry and sparkling wine will be somewhat full-bodied and ter as it warms in the glass. Drink now. sweet cherries backed by drying mineral, cola and rich. And it is. Made from Chardonnay and Pinot exotic spice. The mouthfeel is excellent, with a Noir, it’s a big, flamboyant bubbly, rich in raspber- plush, sweet close. Imported by Winebow. ries, limes and yeast. Yet it retains the delicacy and elegance of a fine sparkling wine.

WineMag.com | 5 BUYING GUIDE

Poliziano 2007 In Violas Merlot EOS 2007 The French Connection 92 (Cortona); $40. This is a gorgeous wine 91 (Paso Robles); $18. A beautiful wine, Highway 12 2008 Serres Ranch with enormous intensity of fruit that comes for- dry and elegant, and a great bargain at this price. 91 (Sonoma Valley); $20. One of the ward as cherry, blackberry, spice, leather and cigar Made from all five of the classic Bordeaux most successful Bordeaux blends to come out of box. The texture is soft, smooth and velvety: In Vio- varieties, it’s rich in blackberry, currant, violet, Sonoma Valley lately, this wine is dry and earthy, las has the heft and persistency to stand up to rose- cocoa and sandalwood flavors, with an exotic providing a nice alternative to today’s super-fruity, mary-marinated T-bone steak. Imported by Palm spiciness in the finish. Fine acidity and silky tan- overripe style. It has rewarding cherry, black- Bay International. Editors’ Choice. nins combine for a perfect texture. Drink now berry, red currant, mocha and licorice flavors, and through 2013. Editors’ Choice. balanced with rich tannins. Really stylish for drinking now. Editors’ Choice.

Iron Horse 2005 Blanc de Blancs Rotta NV Black Monukka (Califor- Fritz 2008 Pinot Noir (Russian River 91 Chardonnay (Green Valley); $40. 92 nia); $25. A superrich, fantastically 91 Valley); $30. Pinot Noir doesn’t get The 2005 vintage was a very great one for Iron sweet wine. It’s clean and crisp with acidity, and much richer than this smooth bottling from Fritz. Horse. This 100% Chardonnay reflects the perfect wildly extravagant in orange, apricot, vanilla, but- It’s their best yet, offering firm, drily crisp flavors growing conditions. It’s dry and especially elegant, terscotch and white chocolate notes. California’s of raspberries, cherries, red currants and cola, with rich brioche, lime and green apple flavors, and equivalent of a white Port, and a perfect pairing wrapped into a silky texture. Drink now. a firm minerality in the finish. Drink now. for cheesecake.

Gloria Ferrer NV Blanc de Noirs 91 (Carneros); $20. More full-bodied Atmosphere 2008 Bismark Moun- than the winery’s brut, this Pinot Noir-based Novy 2009 Gewürztraminer 91 tain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi- bubbly also is richer. It’s just beautiful in rasp- 91 (Russian River Valley); $19. A won- gnon (Sonoma Valley); $60. The vineyard, berries and strawberries, with brighter touches derful Gewürz. You never know what to expect high in the Mayacamas Mountains, is famous for of lime, and although the wine has a honeyed from this varietal, but in this case the wine is the tannic quality of its red wines. You’ll find this sweetness, it’s zesty acidity makes it finish dry. basically dry, and freshly crisp in acidity. The fla- ’08 Cab tough and astringent. But you’ll also easily Editors’ Choice. vors are complex, ranging from oranges, pineap- discover the vast richness of chocolate, cherry, ples and honeysuckle to star anise, toffee and the blackberry and currant fruit, so deep and impres- famous spices of Gewürztraminer. There’s also a sive, and the finish is totally dry and balanced. This rich, creamy texture. Editors’ Choice. Cabernet clearly needs time. Give it until 2014 to begin to come around. Cellar Selection.

6|WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 Cornerstone 2009 90 (Napa Valley); $25. This lovely Sauvignon Blanc was cold fermented, then aged on the lees in neutral oak barrels. That was the perfect way to treat the grapes, which were grown in St. Helena. The Gloria Ferrer 2005 Blanc de Blancs Petito 2008 Split Rock Vineyard wine shows rich flavors of 90 (Carneros); $24. A lovely Blanc de 91 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $55. limes, green melons and Blancs, bright and satisfying in lime, vanilla and Fresh and crisp in acidity, but very clean and bal- lemongrass, with a softly toast flavors, with the yeasty complexity of a fine anced, this young Pinot wants a year or two in creamy texture and a long, sparkling wine. Gains extra points for the smooth the cellar. It’s silky and elegant and rich in rasp- spicy, honey-rich finish. quality of the bubbles. berries, cherries, cola, pomegranates and sweet, Editors’ Choice. smoky oak.

Gloria Ferrer NV Sonoma Brut 90 (Sonoma County); $20. A wonder- fully drinkable sparkling wine that appeals imme- diately for its balanced texture and rich flavors. Chamisal 2008 Estate Easy to like for its array of raspberries, limes, 90 Bottled Chardonnay (Edna Val- Cult NV Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa vanilla, toast and yeast. The sour lees note is nicely ley); $24. This is a rich, flamboyant Chardon- 90 Valley); $25. Great price for a Cab this balanced with the sweet liqueur of dosage. nay, built on a foundation of superripe pineapple, good, and surprising that it’s nonvintage. Toasty oak lime and golden mango fruit and elaborated with stands out, not unpleasantly, and then the blackber- sweet, caramelized oak. Bright, zesty Edna Valley ries, black currants and dark chocolate kick in. acidity balances the opulence. Holds its own among far more expensive Napa Cabernets. Editors’ Choice.

Kunde 2007 Reserve Cabernet 90 Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley); $40. Tightly wound, with oak sticking out, big tannins Frogmore Creek NV 42°S Premier and a solid inner core of vibrant, red cherry and Chandon NV Blanc de Noirs (Cali- 90 Cuvee (Tasmania); $20. A lovely, red currant fruit. There’s a fine wine in here, but 90 fornia); $22. Made from Pinot Noir, refined sparkler from Tasmania (hence the 42 it just needs a few years to come out. Drink although the color is golden straw, and the wine is Degrees South name), this blend of 60% 2011–2014. light and airy in the mouth. The raspberry and Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir is toasty and strawberry flavors are the giveaway. Absolutely leesy, marked by savory mushroom and bright cit- delicious, with a refined mouthfeel, and the price rus notes and a long finish. Light and frothy in is a bargain. Editors’ Choice. feel, it would make a fine apéritif. Imported by Hathaway Trading Company. Editors’ Choice.

WineMag.com | 7 BUYING GUIDE

Willamette Valley Vineyards 2008 90 Signature Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); $50. A selection of estate, Tualatin and Elton vineyard fruit, this car- Napa Cellars 2007 Merlot (Napa ries the style of those wines to a more refined, Mazzei 2008 Serrata Belguardo 90 Valley); $22. A great buy in a smooth, high-toned level. The fruit is a bit more complex, 89 (Maremma); $20. Here’s a fresh and dry Merlot that shows real Napa elegance and and highlighted with baking spice, incense and cheerful -based wine that shows bright style. It’s medium-bodied and lush, with appealing toasted nuts. Just under 14% alcohol, it retains berry tones and soft spice nuances. It proves a very cherry, currant, licorice, tobacco, mocha and spice the essential character of the elegant Pinot Noir food-friendly wine that would pair with pasta, light flavors. Drink now for the immediate appeal. grape, but pushes it to a point where some heat meat dishes or rolled pork roast. Imported by Palm comes into the finish. Bay International.

Stepping Stone by 90 Cornerstone 2008 Cabernet Franc (Napa Val- ley); $30. This is a lushly attrac- tive wine for drinking now. It has pretty flavors of tart red cherries, accented with smoky oak, and brightened with crisp acidity. The dryness and smooth tannins add to Nautilus 2009 Sauvignon Blanc this polished Cabernet Franc. Cardinal Zin 2007 Beastly Old Vines 89 (Marlborough); $17. On the 89 Zinfandel (California); $20. Grown in restrained side, with flinty aromas giving way to the Oakley area from (mostly) old vines, this Zin is notes of grapefruit, melon and fig on the palate. dry, lush in texture and complex in flavors. It has Finishes with a touch of leafiness. Imported by lovely floral and mineral notes to the spicy rasp- Negociants USA, Inc. berries, cherries, currants and cola. Great job at a good price.

Vine Cliff 2008 Chardonnay Jansz NV Premium Cuvée Brut 90 (Carneros); $39. This is a flashy 89 (Tasmania); $20. Toasty and citrusy, Chardonnay, marked by scads of oak that con- this is a prototypical méthode Champenoise Segura Viudas NV Reserva tributes buttered toast and vanilla cream. You sparkler, blending Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and 89 Heredad (); $25. Very solid and find rich fruit flavors of pineapples and golden Pinot Meunier from the cool island of Tasmania, sturdy, with aromas of apple, lemon-lime, soda mangoes, but they struggle to overcome the bar- off Australia’s southern coast. It’s medium in cracker and mineral. The palate is fuller and rel influence. Still, there’s no denying the opu- weight, with a crisp lemony finish that invites a more flavorful than your average cava, with can- lence. Drink now. second sip. Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. died apple, papaya, lime and lemon flavors. Dry, Editors’ Choice. pithy and hinting at complexity on the finish. Imported by Freixenet USA.

8|WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 Marqués de Cáceres 2007 Crianza Big House 2008 The Slammer 87 (); $15. Clear and focused, with 88 Syrah (Central Coast); $14. A X 2009 Sangiacomo Vineyard- raspberry and edgy spice aromas to the nose. The robust, spicy wine that offers lots of bang for the 88 Truchard Vineyard Chardonnay palate doesn’t bring a whole bunch of meat or buck. The flavors range from lush raspberries and (Carneros); $19. A blend from two well- heft, but it is clean, racy and food-friendly. Fla- red cherries up through blackberries and cur- regarded vineyards, this Chardonnay is ultra-rich vors of red berries and pepper are normal and rants, veering into mocha, and there’s lots of in pineapple, mango, pear and green apple fruit expected, while the finish is dry and lean. crushed black pepper. Easy to like with steak, flavors that are liberally accented with sweet, Imported by Vineyard Brands. lamb, Mexican food. Editors’ Choice. caramelized oak. Crisp acidity and a steely minerality fortunately provide balance. Drink now.

Irony 2008 Merlot (Napa Valley); 88 $14. A really nice Merlot, and at this price, you should run and buy some. It’s dry and Freixenet NV Elyssia Pinot Noir Brut Big House 2007 The Prodigal Son smooth and balanced, with lush cherry, berry, 87 (Cava); $18. Aromas of cherry and 85 Petite Sirah (Paso Robles); $15. mocha and cedar flavors. So easy to drink now leather come with burnt earth and smoke, but Nice and dry, with plenty of upfront blackberry, with steaks or chops. Production was 4,900 cases. overall the nose is inviting. The palate is solid in cherry and currant flavors. The tannins are thick Editors’ Choice. feel, with good weight and drive that supports a and furry, and the acidity is sharp through the fin- smoky flavor profile of red berries and controlled ish. It’s a rustic wine that needs big, rich fare with Segura Viudas bitterness. Finishes toasty, with a lick of bitter which to do battle. 88 NV Aria Estate chocolate. Imported by Freixenet USA. Brut (Cava); $14. Mineral, Roth 2008 lime and crisp apple aromas Lovingston 85 Merlot give it a precise, pure nose. 87 2007 Josie’s (Alexander Val- And that same character exists Knoll Merlot (Mon- ley); $20. Lots of on the palate and finish, where ticello); $15. There’s jammy blackberry, white peach, green banana and an interesting counter- blueberry and cherry melon flavors are full and forward. play between the fruit in this dry Mer- Shows good concentration and qual- bright and the dark in lot. It’s a little rough ity for a large-production bubbly at this Lovingston’s hand- in the mouth, with price. Imported by Freixenet USA. picked, small lot Josie’s pronounced acidity Knoll. On the nose, and some green fla- black cherry preserves vors. Drink now. are countered with black pepper spice and char. On the palate, ripe, concentrated black fruit is layered with tar, earth and bramble. It’s elegant and seductive, but anchored by a core of gripping tannins.

WineMag.com | 9 BUYING GUIDE

BESTBUYS BESTBUYS BESTBUYS

Château 89 Cabezac 2007 La Tradition (Minervois); $8. For the price and quality, you just can’t go wrong with this Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2009 one. Medium intense 91 Catarina (Península de Setúbal); with strong sugges- $12. Rich, smooth, with great wafts of creami- tions of kirsch and ness to go with a judicious amount of toast. White blackberry liqueur plum and pear flavors precede a finish with lifted by accents of rosemary, espresso grinds Morro Bay 2009 Split Oak Estates impressive concentration and delicious acidity. and licorice. Round and satisfying in the mouth 88 Sur Lie Sauvignon Blanc (Califor- Imported by Admiral Imports. with more dark fruit flavors and a peppery finish. nia); $12. Showing lovely, delicate orange and Imported by Château Cabezac. citron flavors, this Sauvignon Blanc is clean and zesty in acidity. It’s so refreshingly dry, and has Château such a tangy minerality, that it’s a pleasure to drink 89 Cabezac as a cocktail sipper. 2006 Le Petit Arthur (Miner- vois); $10. Vibrant and lively red fruit aromas blend with fra- grant woody spice in Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2007 the bouquet. The 91 Tinto da Anfora (Alentejano); cherry and berry fla- $13. A beautifully smooth, opulent, wood-aged vors transition to the wine, with a great depth of ripe fruit, spice, palate, where somewhat gripping tannins cou- vanilla, fresh herbs and concentrated tannins. pled with notes of fudgy brownie and black pep- Good aging potential. Drink now. Imported by per add depth to the finish. Imported by Admiral Imports. Château Cabezac. Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2009 87 JP Azeitão Branco (Península de Setúbal); $9. Ripe, full-bodied, spicy wine, defi- antly dry, with a tight acid character. Aromatic fruit finish with intense perfumes, so that the wine is both rich and fresh. Imported by Admiral Imports.

Château 87 Cabezac 2007 La Garrigue McManis 2009 Pinot Noir (Califor- (Minervois); $7. A DFJ Vinhos 2008 Grand’Arte 88 nia); $10. A great value in a Pinot Noir. blend of Syrah and 91 Touriga Nacional (Lisboa); $13. An It’s dry and silky, the way you want a Pinot to be, , this wine elegant red, with power, acidity and black berry and shows flavors of cherries, red currants, cola and definitely has an flavors curling around a structured core of dark bacon. It’s sharp in acidity, but nothing too prob- unmistakable Langue- tannins. This is cool Touriga, very poised, worth lematic. Easy to find, with 36,000 cases produced. doc herbaceousness to aging for two years, with a delicious spicy after- it amid the bright taste. Imported by Dionysos Imports Inc. cherry and red plum flavors. Tightly structured with somewhat bracing acidity and a peppery finish. Drink now. Imported by Château Cabezac.

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 BESTBUYS BESTBUYS BESTBUYS

Domaines Morro Bay 2007 Banfi 2009 87 Paul Mas 87 Split Oak Vineyard 86 Centine 2009 ClaudeVal Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali- Blanco (Toscana); Blanc (Vin de Pays fornia); $12. A little raw in $11. Centine is an d’Oc); $9. For a sort acidity, with some green olive easy, well-priced white of kitchen sink blend notes, but the rustic nature wine from Tuscany composed of works in favor of the wine, with pretty aromas of Blanc, , grounding its rich blackberry, citrus and stone fruit Mauzac, Sauvignon currant and chocolate flavors backed by drying min- Blanc, Vermentino and with earthiness. Tasted in a eral tones and fresh Chasan, this wine is surprisingly pleasing and easy flight of much more expensive acidity. The wine to drink with flavors of lively melon, stone fruit and wines, this Cab did very well. would make a perfect companion to light dishes accents of lime citrus. Versatile for food pairing, like tuna salad. Imported by Banfi Vintners. easy to drink and a terrific value. Imported by Elite Brands.

Segura Viudas NV Brut Reserva 87 (Cava); $10. Simple, nice and not trying Freixenet NV Cordon Negro Brut too hard; this basic brut is graced with nice apple Caño 2009 -Garnacha 87 (Cava); $12. This is your quintessential and citrus aromas. The palate is wet, juicy and clas- 86 (Toro); $8. The quality of the 2009 vin- simple quaff among brut cavas. It’s clean, lime- sic, with crisp apple, green herb and melon flavors. tage is reflected in this value-priced Toro that’s full tinged and soda-like on the nose, with a correct, Round, clean and just crisp enough. Imported by and medicinal but also balanced and rewarding. no-issues palate that pushes zesty apple along with Freixenet USA. Flavors of medicinal red-berry fruit are mixed with sweet papaya, mango and banana flavors. It’s thicker, chocolaty notes, while the finish is bold, slightly sweet and tropical, but still it holds onto its grabby and solid. A blend of Tempranillo and Gar- crisp qualities and dryness. No complaints for the nacha. Imported by Luneau USA. money. Imported by Freixenet USA. Bandit NV Mer- 86 lot (California); $4. There’s a lot going on in this Merlot, which is likeable now for its rich blackberry, cherry, cranberry, cola and spice flavors. It’s dry and bal- anced.

Freixenet NV Cordon Rosado Brut 87 (Cava); $12. For a rosado cava, this De Bortoli NV DB Family Selection offers nice fruit, balance and complexity. The nose 86 Sparkling Brut (South Eastern Aus- is pure cherry and raspberry, but in subdued doses. tralia); $10. Straightforward, fresh and citrusy, Meanwhile, it’s zesty, foamy and fresh in the this is a 100% Chardonnay sparkler that proves mouth, with nectarine, plum, strawberry and quality and price are not always perfectly linked, prickle. Perfectly nice for everyday quaffing. making it a great value. It is a little soft and plush in Imported by Freixenet USA. style, but shows some leesy hints and plenty of tan- gerine fruit on the moderately long finish. Imported by De Bortoli Wines USA Inc.

WineMag.com | 11 BUYING GUIDE

BESTBUYS BESTBUYS CORRECTIONS In the November feature on the year’s Top 100 Best Buys, the following review was accompa- nied by the wrong label. The correct label appears below:

Freixenet NV Carta Nevada Brut 86 (Cava); $9. Sweet and a little grassy on Night Harvest by R.H. Phillips NV the nose, with lemon-lime aromas. The palate has 84 Sauvignon Blanc (California); $7. A a solid, regular, friendly feel along with sweet fla- little sweet in apricot, orange and pineapple fla- vors of white nectarine, apple juice and tarragon. vors, like a fruit juice blend. But it’s refreshingly Perfectly quaffable, dry in feel despite being crisp at an everyday price. Rotari NV Rosé Talento (Trento); semisweet, and balanced. For the price, what’s 89 $14. Elegant and tight, this pale pink not to like? Imported by Freixenet USA. sparkling wine boasts a wide array of small SPIRITS fruit and floral aromas. This vibrant wine would pair well with fried calamari or shellfish thanks to its delicate nature and bright acidity. Imported by Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy.

The following review was inadvertently omitted from the November issue:

Michter’s US*1 Single Barrel 93 Rye (Michter’s American Big House 2009 Big House Red Whiskey Co., Bardstown, KY, U.S.) 85 (California); $10. This big, powerful 42.4% abv, $42. Crazy-sweet aroma, full of red wine is made from too many varietals to name, Pacifique Absinthe Verte caramel, vanilla and a slight floral touch. The but they all bring something to the table. It tastes 91 Supérieure (Pacific Distillery LLC, bite comes first (and lingers awhile), followed jammy and fresh in acidity, with berry, cherry, Woodinville, WA, U.S.); 62% abv, $64. Yel- by vanilla, caramel, coconut flavors. It mellows spice and earthy flavors. low-green color and a pronounced citrus-lime and considerably with ice, and becomes quite like- vegetal fennel aroma. Initially, this absinthe has a able, drinkable and mild. tart flavor, although adding ice water coaxes out more herbal and grassy notes and the lingering In the November issue, the wrong importer finish is smoothed with touch of anise sweetness. was listed with the Cesari 2009 Due Torri Viscous, thick mouthfeel and strong alcohol sting. Pinot Grigio (Delle Venezie). The correct importer is Opici Wines.

In the December issue, the wrong importer was listed with the Santa Rita 2009 Medalla Real Single Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Jargon 2009 Chardonnay (Califor- Valley). The correct importer is Palm Bay 85 nia); $10. A sweet Chardonnay, made Imports. in the popular style. It’s rich and creamy in vanilla and buttered toast, with fruity notes of pineapple FOR MORE WINE RATINGS, and Key lime pie. VISIT OUR WEB SITE AT buyingguide.winemag.com

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 Pinot Noir, it’s a big, flamboyant bubbly, rich in Mumm Napa NV Cuvée M (Napa Chandon NV Brut Classic (Califor- raspberries, limes and yeast. Yet it retains the deli- 90 Valley); $20. This is a delicious, brut- 85 nia); $22. Good flavors of citrus, peach, cacy and elegance of a fine sparkling wine. —S.H. style wine, based on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. spice and toast in this classic blend of Chardon- It’s very rich in strawberry, raspberry and lime nay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. It’s dry, but Chandon NV Étoile Brut (Sonoma- flavors, with vanilla and toast complexities, and rough in the mouth, with a scoury finish. —S.H. 92 Napa); $40. Made from Chardonnay the finish is honey-sweet and spicy. Great price and Pinot Noir, with a splash of Pinot Meunier, for a bubbly this elegant. —S.H. this bubbly is, in a word, delicious. It’s so easy to CALIFORNIA drink, you can’t put the glass down. Shows classic Chandon NV Rosé (California); Champagne structure, with refined bubbles and 87 $22. Good price for a brisk, clean and RED WINES brisk acidity. But the raspberry, strawberry, lime elegant rosé sparkling wine. With a pretty cop- and apple flavors are pure California. —S.H. per color, it offers rich raspberry, strawberry and PINOT NOIR toast flavors. The finish is dry and honeyed at the Mumm Napa NV Brut Prestige same time. —S.H. Brogan 2007 Buena Prierra Vine- 92 (Napa Valley); $20. Assembled from 95 yard Helio Doro Block Pinot Noir dozens of individual lots, this sumptuous brut is Domaine Carneros NV Cuvée de la (Russian River Valley); $90. So dry, so crisply an example of the art of blending. Based on Pinot 87 Pompadour Brut Rosé (Carneros); acidic, so silky in the mouth, and so rich in flavor. Noir and Chardonnay, it’s really as delicious and $36. Very full-bodied and richly forward in rasp- This is a truly distinctive Pinot Noir. It shows the refined a sparkling wine as you could want for berries, cherries and oranges, with the yeasty lees variety’s elusive personality, now rich in cherries drinking now. Shows lush citrus, strawberry, and toast of sparkling wine. A little too big for and currants, withdrawing into minerals and honey, melon, fig and spice flavors that are classic elegance, but dry and easy to like. —S.H. herbs. Yet the final impression is of fine, silky wrapped into a smooth, silky bubbling mouthfeel. decadence. Should develop in fascinating direc- Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Gloria Ferrer NV VA de VI Ultra tions over the next 6–8 years. —S.H. Cuvée (Sonoma County); $22. A Mumm Napa NV Brut Reserve 87 nice everyday sparkler. It’s a little sweet and very Dutton-Goldfield 2008 Dutton (Napa Valley); $30. Notable for the 92 forward in lime and strawberry flavors, with the Ranch Freestone Hill Vineyard smoothness and finesse of the mousse, or bub- 95 yeast and toast complications of a fine sparkling Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); $58. bles, this Pinot Noir and Chardonnay brut-style wine. —S.H. Extraordinary for how drinkable it is right now, blend is rich and crisp in acidity. There’s a hon- and for how it will evolve. Shows the crisp acidity eyed sweetness to the generous strawberry, rasp- Iron Horse 2005 Russian Cuveé and minerality of this cool-climate vineyard, with berry, lime and vanilla flavors. —S.H. 87 (Green Valley); $33. One of the win- rich flavors of raspberries, cherry liqueur, cola, Gloria Ferrer NV Blanc de Noirs ery’s sweeter wines, this Pinot Noir-based bubbly exotic spices, vanilla, buttered cinnamon toast has jammy raspberry, strawberry and vanilla fla- and smoky sandalwood. Yet the tannic integrity (Carneros); $20. More full-bodied 91 vors. Ultra-crisp acidity provides needed balance. should help it change in fascinating ways over the than the winery’s brut, this Pinot Noir-based bub- next six years. Decant for several hours. —S.H. bly also is richer. It’s just beautiful in raspberries It’s a little heavy, but will appeal to those who and strawberries, with brighter touches of lime, want some sugar in their sparkling wine. —S.H. Brogan 2006 Michaela’s Reserve and although the wine has a honeyed sweetness, Korbel NV Sweet Cuvée (Califor- Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $110. it’s zesty acidity makes it finish dry. Editors’ 94 Choice. —S.H. 87 nia); $13. Like the label suggests, it’s A spectacular Pinot that succeeds due to superior sugary in tangerine, vanilla cookie and butter- structure and complex flavors. With a silky Chandon NV Blanc de Noirs (Cali- scotch flavors, with crisp acidity and fine, scoury texture, it feels smooth in the mouth, and 90 fornia); $22. Made from Pinot Noir, bubbles. A nice sparkling wine for those who like shows dry, cool-climate flavors of raspberries, although the color is golden straw, and the wine is a sweeter style. —S.H. cola, oranges and anise, with the most lovely light and airy in the mouth. The raspberry and overlay of smoky oak. Beautiful acidity and finely strawberry flavors are the giveaway. Absolutely Chandon NV Extra-Dry Riche (Cal- meshed tannins provide the architecture. Drink delicious, with a refined mouthfeel, and the price 86 ifornia); $22. It’s called extra dry, but now–2014. —S.H. is a bargain. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. it’s actually kind of sweet. Not too much, just enough to give a rich, honeyed edge to the straw- Calera 2007 Mills Vineyard Pinot Gloria Ferrer NV Sonoma Brut berry, peach, nectarine and toast flavors. —S.H. 94 Noir (Mt. Harlan); $45. Typically 90 (Sonoma County); $20. A wonderfully Calera’s most luscious, delicious wine in youth. drinkable sparkling wine that appeals immediately Iron Horse 2005 Classic Vintage The year 2007 was kind, and the result is a Pinot for its balanced texture and rich flavors. Easy to 86 Brut (Green Valley); $33. A good brut- rich in cherries, raspberries, licorice and cola, like for its array of raspberries, limes, vanilla, toast style wine, a little sweet in the dosage, but with wrapped into a silky texture, with near perfect and yeast. The sour lees note is nicely balanced sound acidity. The bubbles are scoury. The blend is acids and tannins. As good as it is now, it should with the sweet liqueur of dosage. —S.H. 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay. —S.H. develop over the next 6–8 years. —S.H.

WineMag.com | 13 BUYING I GUIDE

Brogan 2007 Morning Dew Ranch Waits-Mast 2008 La Encantada Lynmar 2008 Quail Hill Vineyard 93 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley); $50. 92 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita 91 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); What’s so likeable about this Pinot is its dryness, Hills); $47. Lots of zesty acidity in this wine, $60. Made in an immediately appealing style, silkiness and elegance. It shows a cool-climate which gives it a mouthwatering raciness. It’s bone this Pinot has forward raspberry and strawberry structure, with a bite of acidity and fine tannins, dry but ultrarich and ripe in cherries, raspberries jam, cherry pie, Dr. Pepper, vanilla custard and and tantalizing flavors of raspberries, cherries, and oak. There’s a slightly bretty funkiness that smoky sweet oak flavors. It’s so delicious, you cola and minerals. Should develop in the bottle adds a mushroomy appeal. Should develop over hardly notice the tannin and acid firmness. But over the next six years. —S.H. the next six years. —S.H. that will protect it and enable it to age for 6–8 years. —S.H. Calera 2007 Ryan Vineyard Pinot Calera 2007 Jensen Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mt. Harlan); $70. Petito 2008 Split Rock Vineyard 93 Noir (Mt. Harlan); $40. This is one of 91 Made in a more forward style than it used to be, Calera’s ’07 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $55. the most forward and accessible of Calera’s new 91 Jensen appeals for its lush raspberry, cherry, Fresh and crisp in acidity, but very clean and bal- releases. It’s superrich now in black cherry liqueur, bacon, vanilla and sandalwood flavors. The acidity anced, this young Pinot wants a year or two in mocha, licorice, bacon and spice flavors, a seduc- is just fine, and the tannins are soft and intricate. the cellar. It’s silky, and elegant and rich in rasp- tively silky wine that’s a total hedonistic pleasure. If Lovely now, with a brief decant, and should berries, cherries, cola, pomegranates and sweet, you can keep from drinking it now, it should develop for 6–8 years. —S.H. smoky oak. —S.H. develop well over the next 6–8 years. —S.H. Calera 2007 Reed Vineyard Pinot Calera 2007 Selleck Vineyard Pinot Dutton-Goldfield 2008 Dutton 91 Noir (Mt. Harlan); $50. Brings to 90 Noir (Mt. Harlan); $75. Despite 92 Ranch Sanchietti Vineyard Pinot mind the 2001 bottling, which originally was also appealing raspberry and cherry-pie filling, cola Noir (Green Valley); $58. Notable for its firm pale in color, tightly wound and firm in acidity. and spice notes, this Pinot is a bit hard and even minerality and acidity and distinguished mouth- Like it, this ’07 is not showing well now. It seems green, with some tomato notes. The acidity is feel. Could be a little richer, but offers intricate dry and thin and lacking in opulence, especially if brisk, the tannins thick. Give it 4–6 years in the raspberry, sour cherry candy, blueberry, cola and you’re accustomed to the big California style. But cellar, and it is likely to develop over a decade. sandalwood flavors. Might blossom over the next it’s true to its , and the way it grows in the Cellar Selection. —S.H. few years. Drink now–2013. —S.H. glass lends itself to developing over the next 6–10 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Costa de Oro 2008 Gold Coast Signorello 2008 Las Amigas Vine- 90 Vineyard Reserva Oro Rojo Pinot 92 yard Pinot Noir (Carneros); $50. Costa de Oro 2008 Gold Coast Noir (Santa Maria Valley); $35. Soft and Always a very dry, elegant Pinot Noir, Signorello’s 91 Vineyard Dijon Clones Pinot Noir almost sweet in jammy, pie-filling raspberries and ’08 Las Amigas again displays those qualities. It (Santa Maria Valley); $60. This is a very rich, cherries. It’s luxuriously soft and silky, with pol- shows dried raspberry, cherry and cola flavors, flamboyant Pinot Noir. It offers waves of rasp- ished tannins, and lots of people will love it. with a distinct minerality and a dusting of tobacco berries, cherries, vanilla, toast, gingersnap cookie Would benefit from greater depth and complex- and black pepper. This fancy Pinot is a natural and spices. The texture is silky smooth and ele- ity, but it sure is lovely. Drink now. —S.H. lamb or steak. —S.H. gant, while the acidity is fine and balancing. As good as it tastes, it needs more complexity and Dutton-Goldfield 2008 Devil’s Tudor Wines 2007 Pinot Noir greater depth. Drink now–2014. —S.H. 90 Gulch Vineyard Pinot Noir (Marin County); $58. 92 (Santa Lucia Highlands); $40. A very While the winery’s Pinot Noirs Fritz 2008 Pinot Noir (Russian River from this vineyard have shown tight acidity and good Pinot Noir. Shows just what you want in a Valley); $30. Pinot Noir doesn’t get hardness, they’ve shown great promise. So it is fine coastal bottling, with a smooth, silky texture, 91 much richer than this smooth bottling from Fritz. with this ’08. It’s bright in acidity, with tantalizing crisp acidity, and fine, delicate but powerful fla- It’s their best yet, offering firm, drily crisp flavors raspberry, sour cherry candy and cola flavors, vors. In this case, the wine shows cool-climate of raspberries, cherries, red currants and cola, while new French oak adds a needed touch of notes of raspberries, cherries and red currants, wrapped into a silky texture. Drink now. —S.H. sweet vanilla and smoke. —S.H. with umami, salty smoked meat and oak-inspired vanilla toast complexities. Drink now–2013. —S.H. Lynmar 2008 Bliss Block Pinot Noir Longfellow 2008 Pinot Noir 91 (Russian River Valley); $70. Shows 90 (Sonoma Coast); $38. The grapes Tudor Wines 2007 Tondré Reserve the massively extracted raspberry, cherry, cola come from a vineyard in a part of the sprawling 92 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High- and anise flavors this block of the estate vineyard Sonoma Coast appellation that has yet to prove lands); $60. This is a really beautiful Pinot Noir. produces, with rich oak influences. No denying itself. The wine is ripe, with delicious cherry and It’s rich in flavor, but also strong in structure, with the opulence and immediately decadent appeal, raspberry-pie-filling flavors liberally accented good acidity and firm, dry tannins framing a silky or the silky, tapestry-like texture. Seems off a bit with the sweet toast and vanilla notes of oak. texture. The flavors suggest raspberries, cherries from the fabulous 2007, a little fatter, hotter and There’s an obvious appeal of deliciousness, and and vanilla cream, accented with smoky sweet more obvious, but still a very flamboyant Pinot while it doesn’t tire the palate, it doesn’t offer oak. Drink now. —S.H. Noir. Drink now–2013. —S.H. extreme complexity. Drink now. —S.H.

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 THE WINE ENTHUSIAST BUYING GUIDE Paradise Ridge 2008 Pinot Noir buttered cinnamon toast and sandalwood. Almost (Russian River Valley); $40. 90 Made in sweet, but it finishes nice and dry. Drink The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new a lighter style, this wine is nonetheless rich and now–2013. —S.H. releases and selected older wines evaluated by Wine Enthu- complex in flavor, proving that Pinot Noir doesn’t siast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. On a reg- ular basis the Buying Guide includes reports on special have to be heavy to be really good. It’s dry and McManis 2009 Pinot Noir (Califor- tastings and the wines of specific producers. Regular contrib- spicy, with raspberry, cherry, red licorice and Dr. 88 nia); $10. A great value in a Pinot Noir. utors to our Buying Guide include Senior Editor/ Tasting Director Joe Czerwinski, Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Pepper flavors. Drink now. —S.H. It’s dry and silky, the way you want a Pinot to be, Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Contributing and shows flavors of cherries, red currants, cola Editor Michael Schachner and Contributing Reviewer Jean Reilly in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bor- Dutton-Goldfield 2008 Dutton and bacon. It’s sharp in acidity, but nothing too deaux, Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, Contributing 89 Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River problematic. Easy to find, with 36,000 cases pro- Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland and Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle. If a wine was evaluated by a single Valley); $38. A very nice, elegant Pinot Noir. duced. Best Buy. —S.H. reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. Shows clean crispness and pedigree, with fine When no initials appear, the wine was evaluated by two or Paul Hobbs 2008 Lindsay Estate more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the acidity framing dry flavors of raspberries, cher- input of all tasters. ries, red currants, licorice, bacon and cola. A rich 88 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Each review contains a score, the full name of the wine, feel. Drink now. —S.H. Valley); $85. Delicious in pastry-filling rasp- its suggested national retail price, and a tasting note. If price cannot be confirmed, $NA (not available) will be printed. berry and cherry flavors, with a baked brown Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. Brogan 2006 My Father’s Vineyard sugar richness and exotic touches of vanilla, cin- TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS 88 Shula’s Pond Pinot Noir (Anderson namon, anise and toast. Dazzles with a direct hit Tastings are conducted individually or in a group setting and performed blind or in accordance with accepted industry Valley); $65. Very delicious, with the silky to the palate; is soft and dry. But it has a certain practices. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When pos- mouthfeel you want in a fine Pinot Noir. The fla- surface one dimensionality. Seems at its best sible, wines considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. vors are cool-climate crisp, with raspberries, cher- now–2013. —S.H. ABOUT THE SCORES ries and cola, balanced with subtle herbs and Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular wine. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompany- tobacco. Feels a bit direct and jammy in the Ampelos 2006 Rho Pinot Noir (Sta. ing tasting note to learn about a wine’s special characteristics. Rita Hills); $45. mouth for development. Drink now. —S.H. 87 Appealing now for its Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. rich waves of raspberry and cherry jam, cola, Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Campesino 2008 Papi y Chula Vine- Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. anise, bacon and smoky oak flavors. Delicious and Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. 88 yard Pinot Noir (Los Carneros); $38. refined, with the light, silky texture you expect Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; Shows how ripe the Napa side of Carneros can from Pinot Noir. Seems best now for its youthful often good value. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- grow Pinot Noir. Floods the mouth with strawberry, opulence. —S.H. critical circumstances. raspberry, cherry and cola flavors, while French oak Wines receiving a rating below 80 are not reviewed. contributes toasty sweet vanilla and toast richness. Ampelos 2007 Lambda Pinot Noir SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS Delicious and appealing now and for a couple more 87 (Sta. Rita Hills); $35. Lots of raspberry, Editors’ Choice wines are those that offer excellent qual- years. —S.H. cherry, cola, red currant, licorice and bacon flavors ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a wine at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention. in this dry Pinot Noir, and it has a wonderfully silky Cellar Selections are wines deemed highly collectible Clouds Rest 2008 Pinot Noir texture. Loses a few points for an acidic sharpness, and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cel- lar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection des- 88 (Sonoma Coast); $39. Give this wine though, that’s likely to never go away. —S.H. ignation does not mean that a wine must be stored to be credit for the sheer power of its fruit. Swamps enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring the palate with freshly crushed raspberry and Calera 2007 Mt. Harlan Cuvée will be indicated. cherry flavors, liberally enriched with sweet 87 Pinot Noir (Mt. Harlan); $30. Shows Best Buys are wines that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or for- vanilla and caramelized oak. Other than that, it’s a the rich fruit, acidity and silky texture of Calera’s mulae for determining Best Buys, but they are generally bit soft and one-dimensional, but the score spot on Mount Harlan, with cherry, cola and priced at $15 or less. reflects how delicious it is. —S.H. sweet sandalwood flavors. It’s not as complex or SUBMITTING WINES FOR REVIEW concentrated as the single-vineyard bottlings, but Wines should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via Kynsi 2007 Bien Nacido Vineyard is a good approximation. —S.H. winemag.com/contact. Inquiries should be addressed to 88 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley); Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo at 914.345.8463 or email [email protected]. There is no charge for $39. Soft, rather sweet and appealing. What it Chamisal Vineyards 2008 Chamisal submitting wines. We make every effort to taste all wines lacks in stuffing and complexity, it makes up for in 87 Vineyards Pinot Noir (Edna Valley); submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all wines $38. submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the sheer deliciousness. Opulent in raspberries, cher- Good, dry flavors of red cherries, red cur- magazine. All wines must be accompanied by a submission ries, red currants, red licorice, Dr. Pepper, bacon, rants, orange zest, Dr. Pepper and anise in this silky form, which may be downloaded from our Web site. pepper and sandalwood. Drink now–2013. —S.H. smooth, tart wine. It’s a little off in texture, with LABELS some minty sharpness, so drink now. —S.H. Labels are paid promotions. and winery representatives are given the opportunity to submit labels, Kynsi 2007 Estate Stone Corral which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes 88 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Edna Valley); Costa de Oro 2008 Gold Coast and scores. For information on label purchases, contact $48. Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or A feminine wine, soft, gentle and delicious 87 email [email protected]. in flavor. Feels light and silky in the mouth, with Valley); $35. Softly appealing, with rich flavors Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at rich notes of cherries, raspberries, cotton candy, of raspberries, cherries and spices. Oak barrel buyingguide.winemag.com

WineMag.com | 15 BUYING I GUIDE aging adds textured notes of vanilla, smoke and center. Might develop with a few years in the bot- mouth, with tart acidity and thin cherry, cola and caramel. A pretty, polished Pinot Noir for drink- tle. —S.H. spice flavors. Nonetheless, it’s nicely dry and ing now. —S.H. clean. —S.H. Casa Torres 2006 Pinot Noir (Santa Cupcake 2008 Pinot Noir (Central 86 Barbara County); $38. With a light, MooBuzz 2008 Pinot Noir (Mon- 87 Coast); $14. A delicious Pinot Noir. Set silky texture, this Pinot glides over the palate, carry- 84 terey); $17. Thin and acidic, with cola, it beside more expensive bottlings and it stands ing rich fruit and spice flavors. They include rasp- cherry, orange and oak flavors. Okay in a pinch up well. Silky and rich, with raspberry and cherry berries, pomegranates, cola, red licorice, cinnamon for a dry, everyday Pinot Noir. —S.H. purée, cola, sweet vanilla and sandalwood flavors, and pepper. It’s lovely in many respects, but it’s also and a long, spicy finish. Production was 26,000 notably sharp in acidity, a problem that’s unlikely to Riverbench 2008 Reserve Pinot cases. —S.H. go away. —S.H. 84 Noir (Santa Maria Valley); $42. Heavy and dull in the mouth. They seemed to Domaine Carneros 2008 Avant- Irony 2008 Pinot Noir (Russian have picked the darkest, ripest, softest, plummi- 87 Garde Pinot Noir (Carneros); $24. 86 River Valley); $20. Here’s a dry, crisp est lots, and then plastered the wine with oak. A pretty good Pinot Noir from a producer that and elegantly structured Pinot Noir. It’s rich and Not bad for a Grenache, but lacks the vibrancy specializes in it. Shows the classy balance of the forward in jammy raspberries, cherries and cola, and lift you want from Pinot Noir. —S.H. winery’s more expensive bottlings, although it’s with a bite of acidity. Drink now. —S.H. not as rich in fruit. But it’s still a nice, dry wine. Brogan 2007 Lingenfelder Vine- Easy to find, with 35,800 cases produced. —S.H. SYRAH/SHIRAZ 85 yard Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- Goldeneye 2007 Pinot Noir ley); $65. Tastes soft and almost sweet, with Novy 2008 Rosella’s Vineyard melted raspberry and cherry-pie-filling flavors. Syrah (Santa Lucia Highlands); (Anderson Valley); $58. This is 94 87 It’s rich and oaky, but the palate lacks some grip, $33. Syrah master Novy has given us a beautiful Goldeneye’s basic appellation Pinot. It’s fairly rich some structure, something to hang on to. —S.H. Syrah to drink now with rich lamb, beef and pork in cherries, raspberries, cola, red currant, licorice dishes, or perhaps a Latin-inspired black bean and sandalwood, with an elegantly crisp mouth- Inocencio 2007 Pinot Noir (Santa soup. It’s rich, softly lush and dry, and the black- feel. But it lacks excitement, especially at this Barbara County); $42. Heavy for a berry, currant, mocha and sandalwood flavors price. Drink now. —S.H. 85 Pinot Noir, it’s almost unrecognizable. While it is a have exciting edges of salty cured meats and nice, rustic red wine, dry and spicy, with lots of berry freshly crushed black pepper. Really exquisite, Husch 2008 Pinot Noir (Anderson fruit, it’s just not particularly Pinot-esque. —S.H. but only 263 cases were produced. —S.H. 87 Valley); $23. This is a wonderful Pinot Noir to drink now for its dry crispness, silky ele- Kynsi 2007 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley); Morgan 2007 Double L Syrah gance, and pleasant cherry, currant, Dr. Pepper $32. Fruity and bright in acidity, this Pinot (Santa Lucia Highlands); $40. This and teriyaki beef flavors. Polished and supple, 85 90 tastes like liquid raspberry and cherry jam, sprin- is a fancy Syrah, the result of a small crop in this and easy to find, with nearly 38,000 cases pro- kled with cocoa and cinnamon, and sweetened with cool vintage. The flavors are concentrated in duced. —S.H. a spoon of white sugar. Drink now. —S.H. blackberries, black currants and purple plums, with cured meat and black pepper complexities. Radog 2007 Radog Pinot Noir Toretti’s 2008 Pinot Noir (Santa Oak adds a lush layer of smoke, vanilla and wood (Monterey); $28. 87 A delicious, bal- 85 Barbara County); $38. A good Pinot, tannins. Complex and delicious now and through anced Pinot Noir. Shows dry, pure flavors of rasp- but not without its faults. It’s nicely dry and has a 2013. —S.H. berries, cherries, cola and sandalwood, with a lovely, silky texture, making it feel light and airy in delicious, drink-me-now appeal. —S.H. the mouth. The raspberry, cherry, orange zest and Novy 2008 Susan’s Hill Vineyard cola flavors testify to the wine’s cool-climate ori- 90 Syrah (Santa Lucia Highlands); $34. Tudor Wines 2007 Balo Vineyard gins. The main problem is sharp acidity, which is This Syrah is marked by rich, extracted flavors. It’s 87 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley); $60. hard to ignore. —S.H. strong in blackberries, cherries and raspberries, A good, dry Pinot Noir, tart in acidity, and show- coated with lots of smoky, caramelized oak. The ing flavors of sour cherries, currants and beef Toretti’s 2008 Early California deliciousness factor is very high. Drink now for jerky, sweetened with caramelized oak. It’s a little 85 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara decadent youthfulness. —S.H. rustic, but elegant. Drink now. —S.H. County); $40. Sharp, cutting acidity mars this delicately-structured wine. Tastes like a good Novy 2008 Garys’ Vineyard Syrah Waits-Mast 2008 Amber Ridge dose of lime juice was added. Otherwise, the 89 (Santa Lucia Highlands); $33. This 87 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River raspberry, orange and pomegranate flavors are extraordinarily rich Syrah swamps the mouth with Valley); $44. Soft and fruity, with raspberry, delicious and dry. —S.H. jammy blackberries, raspberries and cherries. cherry, Dr. Pepper and oak flavors. It has the There’s nothing subtle about it. But it’s basically jammy, marmalade taste of freshly crushed Ventana 2008 Pinot Noir (Arroyo dry and properly balanced with acids and tannins, berries, with citrusy acidity. The oak is front and 85 Seco); $18. A bit harsh and rustic in the which gives it needed balance. Drink now and

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 through 2014 to experience the youthful opu- Tercero 2007 Thompson Vineyard lence. —S.H. 86 Syrah (Santa Barbara County); PETITE SIRAH $28. Feels too soft and rather one-dimensional, Big House 2008 The Slammer although the flavors are very good. The best thing EOS 2005 Cupa Grandis Grand 88 Syrah (Central Coast); $14. A about the wine, aside from dryness, is the rich- 86 Barrel Reserve Petite Sirah (Paso robust, spicy wine that offers lots of bang for the ness of tannins. The fruit veers toward blackberry Robles); $60. As sharp, fresh and fruity as a jar buck. The flavors range from lush raspberries and marmalade and currants. Doesn’t seem like an of raspberry, cherry and blackberry jam, melted red cherries up through blackberries and cur- ager, so drink up. —S.H. into liquid and fortified with alcohol. Feels hot, rants, veering into mocha, and there’s lots of too, despite an official alcohol reading of just crushed black pepper. Easy to like with steak, Meyer Family 2006 Syrah 14%. The winery held this back for five years, an lamb, Mexican food. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 85 (Yorkville Highlands); $28. Solid expensive investment in storage, but the wine just blackberry, black currant, bacon, black pepper can’t quite overcome its limitations. —S.H. Campesino 2008 Sangiacomo Old and sandalwood flavors in this dry wine. The 88 Lakeville Road Vineyard Syrah grapes come from a small appellation in Mendo- Watkins Family 2008 Zinfandel- (Sonoma Coast); $35. Ultrarich in cherry, black cino County. It’s too soft, lacking structure, but 86 Petite Sirah (Sonoma County); raspberry and red currant flavors, with a savory has a certain opulence. —S.H. $28. Co-released with the 2007 Zin-Petite Sirah note of grilled beef and the sweet, salty umami of blend, this wine shows the same characteristics. D’Anbino 2007 Pine Hawk West bacon. New oak brings vanilla bean and caramel It’s dryish, tannic and rustic, with peppery flavors Vineyard Syrah (Paso Robles); $24. richness. The result is a strongly flavored wine, but 84 framing berries, currants and smoked meat. Give it’s balanced with fine acidity. Drink now. —S.H. Dry and tannic, this Syrah has some juicy black- it a good decant before serving. —S.H. berry, blueberry, beef jerky and black pepper fla- Stepping Stone by Cornerstone vors. The underlying wine feels too soft, even Watkins Family 2007 Zinfandel- though there are brusque acids toward the fin- Petite Sirah (Sonoma County); $28. 2008 Syrah (Napa Valley); $20. Feels 86 88 ish. Ready now. —S.H. A robust blend of two popular varieties, this full- muscular and dry in the mouth, with powerful bodied red is basically dry and fairly tannic. It’s black cherry, currant, bacon, black pepper and san- Longfellow 2007 Syrah (Dry Creek enormously rich and extracted in blackberries and dalwood flavors. The tannins are potent, but nego- Valley); $35. This is a soft, slightly cherries, with notes of bacon, beef jerky, tobacco tiable, although you should give this Syrah a decant 84 sweet and very fruity Syrah. It’s kind of simple, and scads of peppery spices. Drink now. —S.H. of several hours to let it breathe. —S.H. with a soft texture and rich cherry and raspberry- jam flavors. —S.H. Big House 2007 The Prodigal Son Kenwood 2007 Jack London Vine- Petite Sirah (Paso Robles); $15. Nice yard Syrah (Sonoma Valley); $25. 85 87 Reeves Ranch 2008 Syrah (Santa and dry, with plenty of upfront blackberry, cherry A good, soft wine to drink now with a steak or Ynez Valley); $36. Soft and melted, and currant flavors. The tannins are thick and chop. It’s full-bodied and very rich in extracted 84 lacking structure. Lacking tannins and acidity. furry, and the acidity is sharp through the finish. blackberry jam and crème de cassis flavor, with Tastes like liquid raspberry- cherry- and chocolate It’s a rustic wine that needs big, rich fare with touches of pepper, cocoa and bacon. —S.H. -pie filling, with alcohol and an overlay of which to do battle. —S.H. caramelized oak. —S.H. EOS 2008 Reserve Bordonaro Vine- EOS 2007 Reserve Petite Sirah yard Syrah (Paso Robles); $25. 86 This Ty Caton 2008 Caton Vineyard 85 (Paso Robles); $25. A flamboyantly is a soft, simply constructed wine, but it’s very tasty. 84 Ballfield Syrah (Sonoma Valley); rich red wine, brimming with ripe cherry, black- Flatters the mouth with waves of ripe raspberries, $42. Good, rich notes in this blackberry, currant, berry, raspberry, red currant, cola, bacon, cocoa cherries, currants and cocoa, sprinkled with anise dark chocolate, roasted meat and black pepper and licorice flavors. The tannins are soft and gen- and black pepper. Drink now. —S.H. flavored wine, with its firm tannins. Loses points tle but firm. The main problem is an excessive for excessive softness and heat, which gives it a sharpness that seems artificial. Drink now. —S.H. Longfellow 2006 Syrah (Dry Creek rustic feel. Drink now. —S.H. 86 Valley); $35. Tastes pretty sweet, like a Hopper Creek 2006 Jonquil Vine- good Syrah that’s been doctored with a table- Wilson 2007 Dorothy’s Vineyard 85 yard Petite Sirah (Napa Valley); spoon of white sugar. If that’s your style, you’ll 83 Syrah (Dry Creek Valley); $30. $35. Too acidic, even for Petite Sirah, and the enjoy the rich cherry, currant, chocolate and spice Frankly as sweet as Port, with sugary blackberry acidity compounds the tannins, making for a flavors. —S.H. jam and chocolate-covered raisin flavors and high, harsh mouthfeel. There are lovely berry and cof- brandied alcohol. Not bad for a , but fee flavors and a spicy, dry finish. —S.H. Morgan 2008 Syrah (Monterey); inappropriate for a . —S.H. 86 $20. Gets the job done with its rich tan- Trentadue 2008 Alexander Valley nins, crisp acids and solid blackberry, mocha and Barefoot NV Shiraz (California); 85 Estate Petite Sirah (Sonoma orange zest flavors. Easy to drink, and ready now. 82 $7. Simple and fruity, with raspberry and County); $15. Soft and somewhat sweet, Production was 1,685 cases. —S.H. cherry Kool-Aid flavors. —S.H. this rustic Petite Sirah has candied flavors of rasp-

WineMag.com | 17 BUYING I GUIDE berries, mocha, bacon and black pepper. An easy sweet, pastry taste. Wonderful now as a spicy Bodegas Paso Robles 2005 Solea sipper to enjoy now. —S.H. alternative to Zinfandel. —S.H. 84 (Central Coast); $34. This blend of 86% Tempranillo and 14% Graciano has sour Albeno Munari 2007 Petite Sirah DARE by Viader 2007 Tempranillo cherry candy flavors, in a light-bodied, silky tex- 84 (Calaveras County); $22. Awkward 86 (Napa Valley); $40. Lots of rich cherry ture. It’s bone dry with some unripeness. —S.H. in the mouth, with hard-edged tannins and cut- fruit flavor in this wine. It’s marked by decent acids ting acidity that interferes with the berry, cherry, and brisk tannins, and is totally dry. Feels one Bodegas Paso Robles 2005 Viva Yo currant and spice flavors. This old-fashioned wine dimensional, but it has a nice silky texture. —S.H. 86 Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon could mellow over the years, without gaining (Central Coast); $24. This Tempranillo and complexity. —S.H. Gundlach Bundschu 2007 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon blend has rich blackberry, 86 Vineyard Tempranillo (Sonoma Val- cherry, currant, licorice and sandalwood flavors. La Storia 2006 Estate Bottled ley); $36. This is a soft, semi-sweet wine with rich It’s dry and quite acidic, with a tart, clean mouth- 84 Petite Sirah (Alexander Valley); flavors of cherry and raspberry jam, bacon, black feel and a silky texture. Drink now. —S.H. $25. This is a softly tannic, dense, extracted and pepper and sandalwood. It’s a little syrupy. Give it a acidic wine that floods the mouth with the sharp chill in the fridge before drinking. —S.H. Bodegas Paso Robles 2006 Viva Yo tastes of blackberry, cherry and raspberry jam. It’s 85 Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon good, in a rustic way. Drink now. —S.H. Irwin Family Vineyards 2008 (Central Coast); $28. Likeable for its dryness, Piedra Roja Block 22 Tempranillo and the discrete balance of black currant and dried McManis 2009 Petite Sirah (Califor- 86 (Sierra Foothills); $25. Rich and delicious, cherry fruit with earth and mineral tones. The nia); $10. 84 Scads of freshly cracked black although it’s also somewhat soft and direct. Offers mouthfeel is a little fierce in acidity, though. —S.H. pepper show up in this wine, with its raspberry jam upfront, jammy flavors of raspberries and cher- and sandalwood flavors. It’s soft and simple and ries, with elaborate oak touches of toast, vanilla slightly sweet, but pretty good for the price. —S.H. ZINFANDEL and caramel. Drink now. —S.H. Ty Caton 2008 Caton Vineyard Kunde 2007 Reserve Century Mahoney 2007 Las Brisas Vine- Petite Sirah (Sonoma Valley); $44. Vines Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley); 84 yard Tempranillo (Carneros); $20. 92 Too soft for comfort. Lacks structural integrity and 86 $30. These old vines are famous for concentra- Easy to mistake this for a rustic Pinot Noir, with lively acidity to balance out the rich blackberry, tion, and this Zin surely is one of the most intense its silky texture, crisp acidity and bone-dry flavors currant, anise and cocoa flavors, and there’s pep- wines of the vintage. It’s huge in wild berry, cur- of cherries and cola. Although it’s not especially pery heat from high alcohol. Drink now. —S.H. rant, licorice, dark chocolate, bacon and exotic complex, it’s the kind of likeable wine you could spice flavors that go on and on. For all the rich- drink a bottle of with a nice meal. —S.H. EOS 2007 Petite Sirah (Paso Rob- ness, it’s wonderfully balanced, with fine tannins les); $18. Harsh in the mouth, with and a crisp backbone of acidity. Drink now. Edi- 83 Imagery 2006 Artist Collection upfront acidity and powdery tannins, and the tors’ Choice. —S.H. Tempranillo (High Valley); $39. cherry, cola and cedar flavors aren’t rich enough 85 to stand up. Call it rustic. Drink now. —S.H. Good, fleshy flavors of tart cherries in this dry Signorello 2008 Luvisi Vineyard wine. Yet it lacks structural integrity, as it is too 91 Zinfandel (Napa Valley); $38. This soft and melted. Drink now. —S.H. is a soft, lush, almost sweet Zinfandel. It has ripe, TEMPRANILLO pie-filling flavors of raspberries and cherries, with A Cellar Full of Noise 2006 Tem- a chocolate and spice finish. Feels a bit too soft, Six Sigma 2006 Tempranillo (Lake 84 pranillo (Paso Robles); $18. Very but the tannins are complex and refined. Drink 90 County); $42. Six Sigma’s Tempranillo soft and sweet in dessert pastry flavors. Not much now. —S.H. continues to be one of the most interesting structure, but delicious in cherry- and raspberry- bottlings of this Spanish variety in California. This pie filling flavors. —S.H. Wilson 2008 Sawyer Vineyard ’06, like its predecessors, is dry and medium- 90 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley); $34. bodied, and shows a pleasant combination of Matchbook 2008 Tempranillo Richness alone would earn this Zinfandel a good cherry fruit brightened with fine acidity and 84 (Dunnigan Hills); $15. The score score, but the overall balance uplifts it. It’s simply wrapped into ripe, smooth tannins. It hints at com- reflects the rich cherry, blackberry, cola and delicious in wild berry, spice, mocha, salty plex notes of hummus, olives, smoked meat and smoked meat flavors in this dry, crisp, silky wine. bacon, vanilla toast and sandalwood flavors. Yet anise. Try now as an offbeat alternative to a big But it also takes into account a certain funkiness the tannins are fine, and the acidity is perfect. Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. —S.H. and one-dimensional simplicity. —S.H. Even the slightly sweet finish and high alcohol work. —S.H. EOS 2008 Reserve Tempranillo Bray 2007 Tempranillo (Shenan- 87 (Paso Robles); $32. So easy to like for 83 doah Valley); $18. A soft, easy red Cardinal Zin 2007 Beastly Old Vines its soft richness. The raspberry and cherry . Shows appealing cherry and raspberry fla- 89 Zinfandel (California); $20. Grown in meets the toasted oak and creates an almost vors, with a silky texture. Drink now. —S.H. the Oakley area from (mostly) old vines, this Zin is

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 dry, lush in texture and complex in flavors. It has in baked blackberries and cherries, milk choco- prevalent. There’s real tannin and acid architec- lovely floral and mineral notes to the spicy raspber- late, red licorice, bacon and mounds of black pep- ture framing the opulent blackberry, black cur- ries, cherries, currants and cola. Great job at a good per. —S.H. rant, mineral and cedar flavors, and the finish is price. —S.H. dry, dry, dry. Every sip offers something different EOS 2007 Zinfandel (Paso Robles); as it changes in the glass. A world-class wine that V. Sattui 2007 Black-Sears Vine- 84 $18. The combination of high alcohol defines elegance, power and complexity. Should 89 yard Zinfandel (Howell Moun- and what tastes like residual sugar makes this Zin- age effortlessly for at least a decade. —S.H. tain); $40. Not an easy wine to appreciate now. fandel rather sugary sweet. If that’s your style, It’s tannic, and the fruit is fresh and primary, with you’ll like the jammy raspberries, cherries and Hall 2007 Kathryn Hall Cabernet the sweet, candied taste of a chewy raspberry spices. —S.H. 96 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $80. One twist. Still, there’s something complex and inter- of the richest Cabernets of the vintage. Amaz- esting going on. It’s not just another overripe Zin. McManis 2009 Zinfandel (Califor- ingly soft and velvety in the mouth, yet there’s a Give it a year or two to come around. —S.H. 82 nia); $10. This is a soft, simple and solid grip of acidity and tannins that balance the sweet wine, with cola and sugared raspberry-juice richness. The flavors are extraordinary, ranging Dutton-Goldfield 2008 Morelli flavors. —S.H. from blackberry and cherry-pie filling through 88 Lane Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian currant liqueur and milk chocolate to leather. So River Valley); $40. A softly tannic and dry Zin. Parkers Estate 2008 Zinfandel decadent now, it’s hard to resist, but should Offers wild berry, cherry, currant and spice fla- 81 (Sonoma County); $20. A sharply develop for 4–6 years. —S.H. vors, with a meaty edge, like beef teriyaki. Easy to bitter wine with sweet and sour flavors whose drink with a perfectly grilled steak. —S.H. mouthfeel leaves plenty to be desired. —S.H. Vine Cliff 2007 Pickett Road Vine- 95 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa EOS 2008 Reserve Zinfandel (Paso Headbanger 2007 Zinfandel Valley); $150. The most tannic and closed of 87 Robles); $30. With its soft acidity, silky 80 (Sonoma County); $20. Syrupy and Vine Cliff’s magnificent array of ’07 Cabernets. It’s mouthfeel and very ripe raspberry, cherry, cur- tired. Not much going on with this raspberry- hard, with a bite of acidity, but it doesn’t take much rant, mocha and pepper flavors that finish almost flavored Zin. —S.H. for the richness to explode. Blackberries, black sweet, this is a classic Paso Robles Zinfandel. It’s a currants, dark chocolate, butterscotch, sweet cin- little hot in alcohol, but not too much. —S.H. namon spice, the list goes on and on. So rich and CABERNET SAUVIGNON decadent, you can enjoy it now, but it will gather Estancia 2008 Keyes Canyon momentum over the next 6–8 years. —S.H. 87 Ranches Zinfandel (Paso Robles); Vine Cliff 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- $12. A very nice wine that takes the variety’s rus- 98 gnon (Oakville); $75. Pretty much as Hall 2007 Ellie’s Cabernet Sauvi- tic nature and elevates it into elegance, at a good good as Napa Cabernet gets. Shows the blackber- 94 gnon (Napa Valley); $55. Amazingly price. The wine is dry and soft, with rewarding ries, black currants, blueberries and spicy plums of delicious and soft. Defines the modern Napa red berry, currant, mocha and dusty spice flavors. Oakville and scads of spices, and the tannin-acid Cabernet style, with the tasteful elegance Hall Best Buy. —S.H. structure is, in a word, superb. The oak elaboration wines are known for. With 20% Merlot, it displays is just about perfect, adding a tasteful layer of dazzlingly rich flavors of blackberries, black cher- Paradise Ridge 2007 The Convict smoky, buttered toast. The finish goes on and on. ries, red currants and mocha, with a savory note of 87 Rocky Ridge Vineyard Zinfandel Editors’ Choice. —S.H. bacon. Now–2013. —S.H. (Rockpile); $40. This is a strong, spicy Zin, with a big, bold mouthfeel. It has lots of wild berry, Paul Hobbs 2007 Stagecoach Vine- Paul Hobbs 2007 Beckstoffer To beef teriyaki, cola and pepper flavors, while brisk 97 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa 94 Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi- acidity gives it a scour. It’s also bone dry. The Valley); $150. A very great Napa Cabernet by gnon (Napa Valley); $235. An ultrarich roughness suggests a little time in the cellar. Try any standard. Defines the modern style of soft Cabernet whose ripe fruit is as elaborate as you after mid-2011. —S.H. richness, with lavish flavors of blackberry tart, can get. Ditto for the soft, plush tannins and the crème de cassis, blueberry, dark chocolate and wealth of fine, sweet oak. Despite the wealth of Rubicon Estate 2008 Edizione Pen- the richest, sweetest toasty oak you can imagine. blackberry, currant, dark chocolate and cola fla- 87 nino Zinfandel (Rutherford); $45. It’s soft and ripe enough to drink now, yet shows a vors, it’s not a wine to drink now, because the tan- This superrich Zin has extracted, luxurious fruit. subtle structure that suggests aging for a decade. nins and acids are so pert. Give it a good six years It’s ripe in blackberry and cherry jam, milk choco- Possesses the extreme complexity and finesse that in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. late, peppery spice and anise flavors, with an mark the greatest wines. —S.H. overripe note of Port. Drink now. —S.H. J.R. Carter 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- Vine Cliff 2007 16 Rows Cabernet 93 gnon (Diamond Mountain); $80. Wilson 2008 Ellie’s Old Vine Vine- 97 Sauvignon (Oakville); $150. A true For sheer palate seduction, you can’t beat this 87 yard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley); sensation. Shows the richness and concentration rich wine. It used to be that Diamond Mountain $34. A lusty, spicy Zin, born to partner with bar- you want in a great Napa Cab, but also a structure Cabs weren’t drinkable for years because of the becue. It’s powerful, high in alcohol and massive that lifts it above the soft, mushy wines that are so tannins. Not so with this beauty. It shows pure,

WineMag.com | 19 BUYING I GUIDE classic Cabernet flavors of blackberries, black Atmosphere 2008 Bismark Moun- all the way through the finish. Excellent price for currants, cherry-pie filling, violets and sweet, 91 tain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi- a Cab of this quality. Easy to find with 36,000 smoky sandalwood, with a distinct minerality. gnon (Sonoma Valley); $60. The vineyard, cases produced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Although it’s beautiful now, it should develop in high in the Mayacamas Mountains, is famous for the bottle for a decade. —S.H. the tannic quality of its red wines. You’ll find this Cult NV Cabernet Sauvignon ’08 Cab tough and astringent. But you’ll also easily 90 (Napa Valley); $25. Great price for a Lamborn Family Vineyards 2005 discover the vast richness of chocolate, cherry, Cab this good, and surprising that it’s nonvintage. 93 Vintage III Cabernet Sauvignon blackberry and currant fruit, so deep and impres- Toasty oak stands out, not unpleasantly, and then (Howell Mountain); $105. Dazzles now for sive, and the finish is totally dry and balanced. This the blackberries, black currants and dark choco- its richness. Shows those classic Howell Moun- Cabernet clearly needs time. Give it until 2014 to late kick in. Holds its own among far more expen- tain tannins, but they’ve been so tamed and begin to come around. Cellar Selection. —S.H. sive Napa Cabernets. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. refined, you can drink it now. The flavors are spectacular, over the top; pure Cirque du Soleil J. Davies 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- Kunde 2007 Reserve Cabernet spectacle of blackberry, currant and chocolate 91 gnon (Diamond Mountain); $75. 90 Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley); $40. acrobatics. —S.H. Very lush and ripe in blackberry, cherry, currant Tightly wound, with oak sticking out, big tannins and cassis flavors, with an oaky overlay, and and a solid inner core of vibrant, red cherry and Philippe-Lorraine 2004 Cabernet there’s a minerality toward the end that smacks of red currant fruit. There’s a fine wine in here, but 93 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $25. Very the soil. With an acidic jamminess and fierce tan- it just needs a few years to come out. Drink unusual to get a newly released Cabernet from nins, the wine feels austere and remote. Give it 6 2011–2014. —S.H. the 2004 vintage, especially one this good, at this or 7 years in the cellar to come around. Cellar price. At age six, it’s fully mellow, with a silky Selection. —S.H. Signorello 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- mouthfeel framing flavors of cherries and black- 90 gnon (Napa Valley); $50. Shows berries that are starting to dry out and sweeten. Philippe-Lorraine 2005 Cabernet plenty of good Cabernet varietal character in the There are also developing notes of mushrooms 91 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $15. An blackberry and black currant flavors, with savory and earth. What a bargain, but only 800 cases interesting Cabernet that is softening and mel- cherry and violet notes that must come from were produced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. lowing. The primary blackberry and cherry fruit is additions of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The all- starting to dry out, revealing more subtle and har- important tannins are super soft and mellow, Provenance Vineyards 2007 Beck- monious notes. This dry, complex wine is best while acidity also is soft. Enjoy this decadent wine 93 stoffer Tokalon Vineyard Cabernet now and for a few more years. Best Buy. —S.H. now and through 2015. —S.H. Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $85. From the famed vineyard in Oakville comes this dramatic Roberts & Rogers 2006 Cabernet EOS 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- wine. It will benefit from a few years in the cellar to 91 Sauvignon (Howell Mountain); 89 gnon (Paso Robles); $32. Ripe, dry let the tannins mellow, although it’s so good now, $75. Lots of hard tannins and mouthwatering and forward in fruit, with a soft texture, this Cab you can open it right away and give it a decant. acidity in this Cabernet. It’s bone dry, and densely appeals now for its wealth of blackberries, cher- Drinks sweet and lush in blackberries and black packed with blackberries and black currants, with ries, plums, herbs and spices. It’s a lovely wine currants, with a rich overlay of smoky cedar. —S.H. the tangy minerality of spring water and plenty of that should be decanted for a few hours before oak influence. Too astringent to drink now. Give serving. —S.H. Riboli 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon it 5–6 years, and it should develop even longer 92 (Rutherford); $60. This is a beautiful than that. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Longfellow 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- Cabernet that shows the gentle tannins and 89 gnon (Napa Valley); $60. A good herbaceous edge of Rutherford Cabernets, but Schulz 2007 Lampyridae Vineyard wine that delivers the power you want. It’s dry doesn’t stint on richness. It’s dry, smooth and 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount and rich in blackberries, currants, chocolate and appealing in black and red cherry, red currant, Veeder); $48. This is a very good Cabernet that smoky cedar. There’s a slight rusticity in the form licorice, bacon and sandalwood flavors, and is shows its mountain origins in the thick tannins of a tannin-acid inconsistency. —S.H. complex enough to age for a decade. —S.H. and overall concentration. It’s superrich in black- berries, black currants and crème de cassis, with a Robert James Lynch 2007 Dixon The Grade 2007 Winfield Vine- tangy minerality. There’s also a cut of acidity that 89 Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 92 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa makes the mouthfeel tart, and will never go away. (Carneros); $49. This is a good, well-made Valley); $80. Shows a great return to form over Seems at its best over the next few years for Cabernet Sauvignon to enjoy now. It’s nice and the 2006, with the lush flavors and rich attrac- youthful beauty. —S.H. dry and sturdy in tannins, with oak-influenced tions of the 2005. With soft but complex tannins, blackberry and currant flavors. Shows some real the wine immediately appeals for its wealth of Benziger 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- sophistication. —S.H. blackberries, black currants and plums, enriched 90 gnon (Sonoma County); $20. A with smoky oak. Very rich, pure and refined. beautiful Cabernet for drinking now and over the The Grade 2006 Winfield Vineyard Fine now, with a good decant, and should age next few years. It’s dry and fine, with appealing 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- well for a decade. —S.H. blackberry, black currant, herb and cedar flavors ley); $80. Vintage seems to have made all the

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 difference in this 100% Cabernet. The 2005 was Rodney Strong 2007 Reserve Ty Caton 2008 Caton Vineyard rich and fat, the 2006 less so. You’ll find plenty of 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander 86 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Val- acidity framing the juicy blackberry and black Valley); $45. Amazingly rich flavors mark this ley); $49. Tastes its best now, with jammy black- currant flavors. It seems to be very finely layered, Cab, ranging from blackberries and black cur- berry, cherry and raspberry flavors, and a rich so your best bet is to cellar it for 6–8 years and rants to earthier notes of herbs, cola and olive overlay of oak. The tannins and acids are soft and see what happens. —S.H. tapenade. It’s dry, and the tannins are lush and gentle. —S.H. easy. Super easy to drink, but could benefit from Husch 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon greater structure, as it’s a bit too soft. —S.H. Night Harvest by R.H. Phillips NV 88 (Mendocino); $21. This is a good, ele- 84 Cabernet Sauvignon (California); gantly structured Cabernet. It’s bone dry, and Black & White 2006 Topanga Vine- $7. This is the kind of inexpensive Cabernet you marked by zesty acidity, as well as blackberry, yards Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa can serve at big parties. It’s dry and full-bodied, black currant, cherry, mocha and bacon flavors. 86 with simple blackberry and cherry flavors lead- Valley); $24. A good, sound wine to drink now. Especially likeable for its low, 13.9% alcohol. ing to a spicy finish. Best Buy. —S.H. It’s nicely dry and rich in tannins, with a burst of Drink now. —S.H. acidity. The cherry, blackberry and raspberry fla- Barefoot NV Cabernet Sauvignon vors are a bit jammy. —S.H. Mayacamas 2005 Cabernet Sauvi- 83 (California); $7. Soft, dry and simple, gnon (Mount Veeder); $65. This with enough berry and cherry flavors to satisfy 88 EOS 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet is not providing much pleasure now. your basic Cabernet needs. —S.H. (Paso Robles); $18. Bone dry and hard in tannins and acids, it’s aloof 86 A little on the thin to the point of unfriendly. But there are lots of side, but attractively layered and dry, with fine Estancia 2008 Keyes Canyon blackberries packed inside. Give it at least 8 years tannins and brisk acidity framing blackberry, cur- 83 Ranches Cabernet Sauvignon in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. rant, licorice, herb and cedar flavors. A good (Paso Robles); $16. A little tough and sweet, everyday Cabernet. —S.H. but offers a solid mouthful of blackberries and Fernwood 2007 Estate Grown Red- cherries. Production was 175,000 cases. —S.H. 87 wood Retreat Vineyards Cabernet Hawkes 2006 Stone Vineyard Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Mountains); $40. 86 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander RouteStock Cellars 2008 Route 29 You’ll find thick tannins and soft acidity in this Valley); $60. Good, but not without problems. 83 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- wine, which offers direct, jammy blackberry and It’s dry and tannicly smooth in the mouth, with ley); $20. Overly ripe and Port-like, with raisin cassis flavors. It’s quite a rich wine that seems best black cherry and mocha flavors. But there’s a tart, and currant aromas. Tastes bitter in the mouth, now and for the next few years. —S.H. sandpapery roughness that’s just a little short of with raisin skin tannins, although there are some ripe. Drink now. —S.H. rich blackberry jam and chocolate flavors. —S.H. Kenwood 2007 Jack London Vine- 87 yard Cabernet Sauvignon Hunnicutt 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- (Sonoma Valley); $35. Good and dry. Trades 86 gnon (Napa Valley); $48. Tight and MERLOT richness for a certain aloof elegance, and while it dry in tannins now, with an astringent mouthfeel could be denser in fruit, the blackberry, currant that feels like sandpaper. So is it an ager? It’s dry Chateau St. Jean 2007 Merlot (Sonoma County); $25. and mocha flavors are just fine. Drink now. Pro- and balanced and rich in blackberries, cherries 93 Run, don’t duction was 16,130 cases. —S.H. and currants, so it might be. Try after 2012, if walk, to find this rich Merlot. It shows vast berry, currant, mocha, licorice and cola flavors, wrapped you’re the gambling type. —S.H. Meyer Family 2005 Bonny’s Vine- into superfine tannins and balanced with fine yard Cabernet Sauvignon 87 Salvatore Principe 2007 Running acidity. Easy to find, with 7,600 cases produced. (Oakville); $135. This is a very dry, richly tex- Editors’ Choice. —S.H. with the Bulls Cabernet Sauvi- tured Cabernet, vast in blackberry, black currant 86 gnon (North Coast); $10. Nice and dry, with and cedar flavors, with the smooth, complex tan- Duckhorn 2007 Merlot (Napa Val- good varietal flavors of blackberries and currants, nins Oakville is known for. However, there’s a ley); $52. As usual with Duckhorn’s red wrapped into rich tannins. It’s a fine Cabernet to 92 noticeable sharpness to the mouthfeel that may wines, this Merlot is more tannic and acidic than never go away. —S.H. drink with ordinary food, and a good value. Best most anything coming from Napa Valley. They’re Buy. —S.H. emphasizing structure over decadence. But that’s Morro Bay 2007 Split Oak Vine- not to say there aren’t rich, elaborate berry, 87 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Califor- Stepping Stone by Cornerstone cherry, currant, chocolate and cedar flavors that nia); $12. A little raw in acidity, with some green 86 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa provide bang for the buck. Very elegant and olive notes, but the rustic nature works in favor of Valley); $35. Somewhat soft and jammy. While refined, this Merlot should be decanted before the wine, grounding its rich blackberry, currant it’s certainly delicious, this 100% Cabernet serving. —S.H. and chocolate flavors with earthiness. Tasted in a needs greater structure and complexity to add flight of much more expensive wines, this Cab value to the sweet blackberries, cherries and Kenwood 2007 Jack London Vine- did very well. Best Buy. —S.H. chocolate. —S.H. 90 yard Merlot (Sonoma Valley); $25.

WineMag.com | 21 BUYING I GUIDE

Tightly wound, with big, edgy tannins that accen- Ty Caton 2008 Caton Vineyard sweet oak, and the finish is thoroughly dry. Drink tuate the acidity. Underneath you’ll find dry, ele- 85 Upper Bench Merlot (Sonoma Val- now. —S.H. gant flavors of tart cherries, red currants and ley); $38. Feels dry and rustic in the mouth, with violets. A polished, pretty wine that could pick astringent tannins and acidity cutting across flavors up some nuances over the next 2–3 years. —S.H. of blackberry and cherry jam, red currants, licorice BORDEAUX-STYLE and pepper. Best now, with a brief decant. —S.H. BLENDS Napa Cellars 2007 Merlot (Napa 90 Valley); $22. A great buy in a smooth, Montevina 2008 Merlot (Califor- dry Merlot that shows real Napa elegance and 84 nia); $10. A good everyday wine. It’s dry, Rodney Strong 2007 Symmetry style. It’s medium-bodied and lush, with appeal- full-bodied and has enough berry-cherry flavors to 94 Red Meritage (Alexander Valley); ing cherry, currant, licorice, tobacco, mocha and get by, wrapped into a smooth texture. —S.H. $55. A great Bordeaux-style wine that can stand spice flavors. Drink now for the immediate proudly next to Napa bottlings that cost far more. appeal. —S.H. San Simeon 2006 Merlot (Paso It’s mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, with the other 84 Robles); $24. Although it’s fully dry, four permitted Meritage varieties, and there Irony 2008 Merlot (Napa Valley); the cherry and berry flavors have a Porty over- seems to be lots of new, sweetly toasted oak. The 88 $14. A really nice Merlot, and at this ripeness, while strong tannins make the finish blackberry, cherry, red currant, mocha and bacon price, you should run and buy some. It’s dry and astringent. —S.H. flavors are delicious, but even better is the tannic smooth and balanced, with lush cherry, berry, structure. It’s soft and alluring enough to drink mocha and cedar flavors. So easy to drink now Barefoot NV Merlot (California); now. —S.H. with steaks or chops. Production was 4,900 cases. 83 $7. Gets the Merlot basics done by Editors’ Choice. —S.H. being dry and medium-bodied, with everyday Beaulieu Vineyard 2007 Reserve cherry, red currant, herb and oak flavors. —S.H. Tapestry (Napa Valley); $50. Made Folie à Deux 2008 Merlot (Napa 92 from all five classic Bordeaux varieties, this is a Valley); $22. A very good Merlot Night Harvest by R.H. Phillips NV 87 rich, softly tannic and delicious wine. It brims with except for some sharpness. The wine is dry and Merlot (California); $7. There are 83 jammy blackberry, dark chocolate and sweet cedar finely tannic, with black and red cherry, mocha, bitter tannins in this bone-dry wine. It’s also thin flavors, in a sweetly chewy texture that hints at fur- dried herb and tobacco flavors. —S.H. in cherry and currant fruit. But it’s clean, and at ther ageability. Drink now–2015. —S.H. this price, a good, sound everyday sipper. —S.H. Korbin Kameron 2006 Moonridge Signorello 2007 Padrone (Napa Vineyards Merlot (Sonoma Moun- Trentadue 2008 Estate Block 500 87 Valley); $110. The grapes are from the tain); $35. The wild raspberry and cherry fruit Merlot (Alexander Valley); $15. 92 83 winery’s estate vineyard. The wine is made in the is starting to drop out from this five-year-old With a streak stream of acidity and medicinal modern style, which is soft, ripe and oaky. It’s wine, leaving behind alcohol and acidity. Turns cherry flavors, this Merlot has a Life Saver-candy quite delicious, showing ripe, lush blackberry and astringent on the finish. Hard to see it improving taste, with a sweet finish. —S.H. black currant fruit, as well as caramelized wood with more age, but it’s interesting for a certain notes. Ready now–2015. —S.H. complex tension. —S.H. Irish Monkey Cellars 2008 Merlot (Napa County); $24. Smells and 81 Skipstone 2005 Oliver’s Blend Mayacamas 2006 Merlot (Mount tastes overripe and Porty, with raisin and caramel (Alexander Valley); $105. 87 Veeder); $35. Tough in tannins and notes, a feels harsh and hot. —S.H. 92 Notable acidic in the Mayacamas style. Feels hard and dry for its richness and concentration of fruit, and and earthy. The cherry-berry flavors have a toma- also for the finesse of the tannin structure. Feels toey edge. But this Merlot, which contains 17% CABERNET FRANC softly lush and luxurious, with potent blackberry Cabernet Sauvignon, has a classy elegance, and and cherry-pie filling, raspberry liqueur, dark opens up as it breathes in the glass. —S.H. Stepping Stone by Cornerstone chocolate and smoky sandalwood flavors. Needs 90 2008 Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley); time to resolve its elements. Give it 5–6 years in a Bandit NV Merlot (California); $4. $30. This is a lushly attractive wine for drinking good cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 86 There’s a lot going on in this Merlot, now. It has pretty flavors of tart red cherries, which is likeable now for its rich blackberry, accented with smoky oak, and brightened with Skipstone 2006 Oliver’s Blend cherry, cranberry, cola and spice flavors. It’s dry crisp acidity. The dryness and smooth tannins add 92 (Alexander Valley); $100. A beauti- and balanced. Best Buy. —S.H. to this polished Cabernet Franc. —S.H. ful wine, lush and appealing and at its best for the next 5–7 years. It’s soft but enormously rich Roth 2008 Merlot (Alexander Val- V. Sattui 2007 Cabernet Franc and smooth in tannins, with deep, extracted fla- 85 ley); $20. Lots of jammy blackberry, 88 (Alexander Valley); $30. A stylish, vors of cherries, raspberries, red currants, bacon, blueberry and cherry fruit in this dry Merlot. It’s a fashionable wine that feels plump and rich and licorice, cola, dried herbs and sandalwood. Grows little rough in the mouth, with pronounced acid- classy in the mouth. It’s a bit too soft, but shows smoother and more complex as it warms in the ity and some green flavors. Drink now. —S.H. lovely flavors of cherries, red currants, mocha and glass. —S.H.

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 Skipstone 2007 Oliver’s Blend jammy blackberry, cherry and currant flavors in raspberries and cherries, but with vegetal 92 (Alexander Valley); $95. Enormously accented with oak and tannins. It seems at its best tastes. —S.H. rich and complex in blackberry tart, black cur- now. —S.H. rant, crème de cassis, licorice and bacon flavors. The tannins are strong but very fine, with a vel- Pear Valley 2007 Distraction (Paso OTHER RED BLENDS vety texture. Give it 5–6 years to achieve bottle 84 Robles); $40. Tastes excessively sharp complexity. Cellar Selection. —S.H. throughout, with a cut of acidity that interferes Krupp Brothers 2006 The Doctor with the palate’s pleasure in the blackberries, 94 (Napa Valley); $75. Napa red wine EOS 2007 The French Connection cherries, currants and oak. —S.H. hardly gets more delicious than this. It’s so soft and 91 (Paso Robles); $18. A beautiful wine, velvety, so rich in chocolate, blackberry and smoky dry and elegant, and a great bargain at this price. Robert James Lynch 2007 Bodae- oak flavors, that you can’t resist sip after sip. Really Made from all five of the classic Bordeaux grape 84 ceia (California); $55. Rich and defines the modern Napa style. The blend is Tem- varieties, it’s rich in blackberry, currant, violet, jammy in cherries, berries and cocoa, this spicy pranillo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, cocoa and sandalwood flavors, with an exotic blend is basically a Bordeaux-style wine with and the grapes were grown on the winery’s estate spiciness in the finish. Fine acidity and silky tan- some Mourvèdre. It feels rustically soft and sweet vineyard in the heart of Atlas Peak. —S.H. nins combine for a perfect texture. Drink now in the mouth, especially at this price. —S.H. and through 2013. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Obsidian Ridge 2007 Half Mile 89 (Red Hills Lake County); $60. Made Highway 12 2008 Serres Ranch RHÔNE-STYLE BLENDS from unknown varieties, this is a big, sturdy, tan- 91 (Sonoma Valley); $20. One of the nic and dry wine, made from a high mountain most successful Bordeaux blends to come out of Tercero 2007 Cuvee Christie G-S-M vineyard in this Lake County appellation. There’s Sonoma Valley lately, this wine is dry and earthy, (Santa Barbara County); $28. A lots to like in the blackberry, cherry and red cur- providing a nice alternative to today’s super-fruity, 87 rant flavors, with their edge of dark chocolate and Southern Rhône-style blend of Syrah, Grenache overripe style. It has rewarding cherry, black- bacon. The wine is a bit sharp, but that could be a and Mourvèdre. Shows great flavors of berries, berry, red currant, mocha and licorice flavors, bal- function of youth. Give it a few years in the cellar. currants, cured meat, spices and sandalwood, and anced with rich tannins. Really stylish for A wine to watch. —S.H. finishes dry and smooth. Could have a firmer drinking now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. structure, as it’s a little soft and melted. —S.H. Big Guy 2007 Big Guy (California); Sterling 2007 SVR Reserve (Napa $20. Just shows you don’t need a super Ampelos 2007 Syrache Syrah- 88 Valley); $50. Just lovely to drink now, high score to have a super drinkable wine with 91 Grenache (Santa Barbara County); it’s so softly lush and decadently delicious. 85 steak, pork, veal, chicken, or just a simple burger. $28. This blend of Syrah and Grenache is soft Beguiles the palate with jammy, pastry flavors of Blended from Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit and melted, with green peppercorn flavors along raspberries, cherries and sweet oak. Cabernet Verdot, Merlot and Malbec, all of them great with riper cherries, chocolate and rhubarb. Ready Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. —S.H. varieties, the wine is dry, sophisticated and rich in to drink now. —S.H. berry and currant flavors. —S.H. Benziger 2007 Tribute (Sonoma Cass 2009 Flying Nymph G-S-M Mountain); $80. Ripe, forward black- Headbanger 2007 Rock n Red 90 (Paso Robles); $13. berry, cherry, currant and licorice flavors mark 84 This blend is soft 87 (Sonoma County); $25. An upscale this Cabernet-based Bordeaux blend. It’s dry, and and fruity. It has flavors of cherry jam, licorice, hamburger wine, fruity and spicy. There’s a the tannins are ultrarefined. But there’s an astrin- bacon and peppery spices. Earns an extra point bacony, smoked meat note to the raspberries and gent feeling that shuts down the palate’s appreci- for the attractive mouthfeel. —S.H. cherries that will play well against the char of ation of how good it is. This is a wine you want to grilled beef. —S.H. cellar for 4–6 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Le Mistral 2007 Red (Monterey 84 County); $40. Soft, sugary and one- Paraduxx 2007 Hooded Merganser Bernardus 2007 Marinus (Carmel dimensional, with raspberry- and cherry-pie fill- 87 (Napa Valley); $48. A rich, tasty wine, 90 Valley); $36. Another successful Mari- ing flavors plus the toasty, buttery crust. —S.H. whose berry, cherry, smoked meat, anise, spice and nus from this small Monterey County appellation. sandalwood flavors are soft and gentle enough to Made from all five classic Bordeaux varieties, it’s Holly’s Hill 2008 Patriarche G-S-M drink now. Combining elegance with rusticity, its dry and rich in blackberries, black currants, crème 81 (El Dorado); $30. Dry, harsh and thin varietal blend is mainly Zinfandel, with Merlot and de cassis and cedar, and is more rough in tannins in the mouth, with some unripe moldy notes next Cab Sauvignon and Franc. —S.H. than your typical Napa Cabernet blend. Drink to the cherries and raspberries. A tough wine to now–2013. —S.H. like. —S.H. Signaterra Benziger 2007 Three 87 Blocks (Sonoma Valley); $49. Very Fernwood 2007 Mirepoix (Santa Ventana 2008 Rubystone good for its complexity, although it’s tough and 85 Cruz Mountains); $30. This Bor- 81 Grenache-Syrah (Arroyo Seco); tannic, and the acidity sticks out. The blackberry, deaux blend is soft and somewhat sweet, with $13. An unbalanced wine, semisweet and jellied currant and cherry flavors are rich and nuanced,

WineMag.com | 23 BUYING I GUIDE but the wine feels hard and sharp. Odds are the kind of vino rosso the pioneers used to make. Will California blush wine, rich and compelling, with a lifespan is six years: cellar or decant. —S.H. last for many years. —S.H. gorgeous color, sort of a salmon-koi gold. It’s bone dry and crisply clean in acidity, with strong, but Daniel Gehrs 2008 Bandolero Obscurity 2008 Murill Vineyard- not heavy, flavors of strawberries and raspberries. 86 (Paso Robles); $32. A young, freshly 87 1916 Vines Carignane (Amador There’s a dusting of tannins that give the wine a fruity wine, with a gassy berry-cherry liveliness County); $22. A good, strong, rustic wine, with solid structure. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. and silky texture similar to Beaujolais. The finish firm tannins and low acidity. The flavors are rich on this Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon and complex, ranging from fresh summer black- Kynsi 2009 Barn Owl Blush Pink blend is dry and spicy. —S.H. berries to dried fruits, cocoa, licorice and briary 90 Wine (Central Coast); $18. A very spices. Nice as a smoother alternative to Zinfan- pretty rosé, one of the most attractive on the mar- Ty Caton 2008 Tytanium (Sonoma del. —S.H. ket. Made from Pinot Noir, it’s light and delicate, 86 Valley); $75. Fruity, dry and immedi- with polished raspberry, tangerine zest, rose ately appealing, showing ripe raspberry, cherry, Stave 28 2007 Lola Sangiovese petal, vanilla, gingersnap cookie and cinnamon blackberry, cola, licorice, bacon and sandalwood 87 (Sonoma County); $24. A very good spice flavors. —S.H. flavors. Could use greater complexity, especially interpretation of Sangiovese. A pretty sharp at this price. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, mouthfeel, but maybe that’s to be expected from Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Tem- Syrah and Malbec. —S.H. this high-acid variety. Otherwise, it’s nice and dry, 88 pranillo Rosé (Sonoma Valley); $22. with complex cherry, red currant, licorice, leather Very rich, spicy and full-bodied for a rosé. The Big House 2009 Big House Red and sandalwood flavors. Good with spicy beef, raspberry and strawberry flavors have a grilled, 85 (California); $10. This big, powerful pork and veal dishes. —S.H. caramelized quality, making for a slightly sweet fin- red wine is made from too many varietals to name, ish. Fortunately, there is high acidity, giving this but they all bring something to the table. It tastes Holly’s Hill 2008 Classique Mourvè- high octane rosé needed crispness. —S.H. jammy and fresh in acidity, with berry, cherry, spice 81 dre (El Dorado); $20. Thin in berry fla- and earthy flavors. Best Buy. —S.H. vor, with a harsh mouthfeel and even some moldy Tercero 2009 Grenache Mourvèdre tastes. It’s bone dry on the finish. —S.H. 84 Rosé (Santa Barbara County); $15. Robert James Lynch 2008 Dark and jellied, with raspberry and vanilla fla- 82 Chateaux du Lovall (Napa Irish Monkey Cellars 2009 Fióre vors accompanied by zesty acidity. Rustic, but County); $32. Sweet and soft, with ripe berry 81 Marcheschi Sangiovese (Alexan- okay with cold cuts, or a chicken taco. —S.H. flavors that veer into grilled cherries, chocolate der Valley); $24. Smells sharp and jammy and and even Port. The finish is frankly sweet. —S.H. tastes tart and acidic, with jellied cherry flavors leading to a sugary finish. —S.H. CALIFORNIA OTHER RED WINES WHITE WINES FORTIFIED RED WINES Rotta NV Black Monukka (Califor- CHARDONNAY 92 nia); $25. A superrich, fantastically Terra d’Oro NV Zinfandel Port sweet wine. It’s clean and crisp with acidity, and 93 (Amador County); $24. The first Dutton-Goldfield 2008 Dutton wildly extravagant in orange, apricot, vanilla, but- duty of a Port-style wine is to be dazzlingly rich 96 Ranch Rued Vineyard Chardonnay terscotch and white chocolate notes. California’s and sweet yet balanced in acidity, and this bot- (Green Valley); $45. This vineyard has proved equivalent of a white Port, and a perfect pairing tling is all that. Waves of blackberry jam, cassis itself for so many years that it’s practically a guar- for cheesecake. —S.H. and dark chocolate are brightened with zesty antee of greatness. This 2008 is a real stunner. acidity, and the sweetness level is very high. Edi- It’s so rich and exotic, so balanced and dry, so Hovey 2008 Walker Cuvée Bar- tors’ Choice. —S.H. clean. Dazzles with pear, pineapple, lychee, 89 bera (El Dorado); $16. A lovely Bar- roasted hazelnut, crème brûlée, buttered toast, bera. Shows the full-bodied, tannic structure and Meyer Family NV Port (California); honey and spice flavors, wrapped into a creamy tart acidity of the variety, but is so rich in flavor, 88 $35. Satisfies the basic Port require- smooth mouthfeel. Brilliant and compelling. you want to drink it now. Floods the mouth with ments of sweetness, firm tannins and crisp acidity. Drink now. —S.H. blackberries, currants, dark chocolate, anise and Quite good in blackberry, black currant liqueur toasted almonds. —S.H. and chocolate flavors. Needs an extra layer of Paul Hobbs 2008 Ulises Valdez richness and complexity, though. —S.H. 95 Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian Obscurity 2008 Estate Lemley River Valley); $70. An awesome Chardonnay 88 Ranch Vineyard Charbono (Fair that gives everything you want in richness, yet Play); $24. A dark, dry, tannic and rustic wine, ROSÉ frames it in a structural integrity rare in California. made from this old variety. Very full-bodied, with Dazzles with tropical fruit, green apple and pear moo shu plum sauce, anise, black currant and Lynmar 2009 Rosé of Pinot Noir flavors, with a brilliant overlay of oak that adds but- cedar flavors. Like a blast from 100 years ago, the 92 (Russian River Valley); $22. A terrific tered toast and spice flavors, not to mention sturdy

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 oak tannins. But it’s the zesty acidity, like a squirt of ness, crisp minerality, and the sleek, clean mouth- Tudal 2009 Maldonado Vineyard lime juice, that really elevates this wine. —S.H. feel. The fruit suggests oak-inspired pears, 90 Chardonnay (Napa Valley); $45. oranges and citrons. This elegant quaff gets better Here’s a ripely fruity Chardonnay that pulls out Vine Cliff 2008 Proprietress as it warms in the glass. Drink now. —S.H. all the stops to achieve opulence, and largely suc- 95 Reserve Chardonnay (Carneros); ceeds. Defines the modern style of , $60. It’s easy to get ripe fruit in California and Knights Bridge 2008 Beresini with extracted pineapple, orange and then plaster it in oak, but what’s so difficult to 92 Chardonnay (Carneros); $65. A caramelized oak flavors, wrapped into a creamy, achieve is the crisp, minerally structure this wine beautiful wine that asserts itself near the top of leesy texture that’s brightened with zingy acidity. displays. It’s rich in pineapple cream, Key lime pie, the pile of Carneros Chardonnay. Shows brisk Drink now. —S.H. Meyer lemon sorbet, golden mango and vanilla oak acidity and a tangy minerality, with oak-inspired, flavors, but achieves balanced elegance with crisp superripe green apple, Meyer lemon and pear Vine Cliff 2008 Chardonnay acidity and a wonderful stony purity. Only 349 cases fruit flavors that are wrapped into a creamy tex- 90 (Carneros); $39. This is a flashy produced. —S.H. ture. Drink now. —S.H. Chardonnay, marked by scads of oak that con- tributes buttered toast and vanilla cream. You Knights Bridge 2008 West Block Iron Horse 2005 Blanc de Blancs find rich fruit flavors of pineapples and golden 93 Chardonnay (Knights Valley); $65. 91 Chardonnay (Green Valley); $40. mangoes, but they struggle to overcome the bar- Awesomely rich, showing fine acidity and a stony The 2005 vintage was a very great one for Iron rel influence. Still, there’s no denying the opu- minerality that ground and anchor it, but really Horse. This 100% Chardonnay reflects the per- lence. Drink now. —S.H. notable for the explosive tropical fruit, apricot, fect growing conditions. It’s dry and especially pear and buttery oak flavors that are so opulent. elegant, with rich brioche, lime and green apple Costa de Oro 2008 Gold Coast The wine went through a complete malolactic flavors, and a firm minerality in the finish. Drink 88 Vineyard Reserva Dorada fermentation. —S.H. now. —S.H. Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley); $35. This very rich Chardonnay oozes showy flavors Windstream 2008 Sarmento Vine- Lynmar 2008 La Sereinité of pineapples, pears and golden mangoes, with 93 yard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia 91 Chardonnay (Russian River Val- winemaking notes of buttered toast, crème brûlée Highlands); $25. A near replica of the won- ley); $70. Tastes honey sweet in butterscotch, and a slight taste of yeast. It’s not particularly sub- derful 2007, and an equally powerful value. buttered toast and caramel. The sweetness domi- tle, projecting power instead. —S.H. Enormously rich and attractive in pineapple nates well ripened pineapple and tangerine fla- cream, golden mango, lemon chiffon pie, but- vors. But the fruity power is there. It needs a year Kunde 2008 Reserve Chardonnay tered toast and dusty spice flavors; crisp Central or so in the bottle to emerge, and even a brief 88 (Sonoma Valley); $33. Very dry, with Coast acidity makes it alive and vibrant. Only 400 decant will bring greater harmony to this expres- mouth-watering acidity, but the palate also cases produced, but worth the search. Editors’ sively opulent wine. —S.H. searches for a little more fruit than the wine Choice. —S.H. offers. Still, the pineapples, peaches and apricots Chamisal Vineyards 2008 Estate are pleasant enough. —S.H. Calera 2009 Chardonnay (Mt. Har- 90 Bottled Chardonnay (Edna Valley); 92 lan); $28. Awesomely rich, with mas- $24. This is a rich, flamboyant Chardonnay, built X 2009 Sangiacomo Vineyard- sive tropical fruit, pear, vanilla cream and on a foundation of superripe pineapple, lime and 88 Truchard Vineyard Chardonnay buttered toast flavors, finished with cinnamon golden mango fruit and elaborated with sweet, (Carneros); $19. A blend from two well-regarded spice. Acidity is high and crisp, and a bright scour caramelized oak. Bright, zesty Edna Valley acidity vineyards, this Chardonnay is ultra-rich in pineap- of minerals brings balance. Made in the modern balances the opulence. —S.H. ple, mango, pear and green apple fruit flavors that style, this is a Chardonnay to drink with lobster are liberally accented with sweet, caramelized oak. and scallops. —S.H. Gloria Ferrer 2005 Blanc de Blancs Crisp acidity and a steely minerality fortunately 90 (Carneros); $24. A lovely Blanc de provide balance. Drink now. —S.H. Donum Estate 2008 Estate Bot- Blancs, bright and satisfying in lime, vanilla and 92 tled Chardonnay (Carneros); $50. toast flavors, with the yeasty complexity of a fine EOS 2008 Cupa Grandis Grand An elaborate Chardonnay whose high acidity and sparkling wine. Gains extra points for the smooth 87 Barrel Reserve Chardonnay (Paso minerality are reflections of both the vintage and quality of the bubbles. —S.H. Robles); $45. This is a very rich, oaky Chardon- Carneros terroir. Shows bright, zesty flavors of nay, ripe and forward in the California style. pineapples, tangerines and green apples, while Lynmar 2008 Quail Hill Vineyard Although it’s dry, it’s so fruity and honeyed, it’s lots of opulent new French oak brings vanilla and 90 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley); almost like a dessert wine. Swamps the palate toast richness, as well as supportive wood tan- $40. An extravagant Chardonnay, rich in buttered with pineapple jam, buttered toast and vanilla nins. —S.H. toast and vanilla cream from oak barrels, and opu- cream flavors, which are nicely balanced with lent fruit flavors of ripe, sweet pineapples, golden crisp acidity. —S.H. Dutton-Goldfield 2008 Dutton mangoes and pears. The sur lie aging shows up in a 92 Ranch Chardonnay (Russian River creamy, yeasty richness. Holding this wine for a EOS 2008 Reserve Chardonnay Valley); $35. Beautiful and likeable for its dry- year or two will not harm it. —S.H. 87 (Paso Robles); $20. Clean and crisp in

WineMag.com | 25 BUYING I GUIDE acidity, with a rich overlay of smoky, caramelized pear and buttered popcorn flavors in this Salvatore Principe 2009 Polo oak, this Chardonnay has appealing pineapple, Chardonnay. It’s very bright in acidity, and is 84 Chardonnay (Russian River Val- peach and lime fruit flavors. There’s a honey sweet almost honey-sweet on the finish. —S.H. ley); $10. A simple, soft, oaky Chardonnay finish, although the wine itself is totally dry. Good made in the modern style. Tastes sugary sweet in price for all this opulence. —S.H. Hawkes 2008 Gravel Bar Chardon- apricot, pineapple and peach jam flavors. —S.H. 86 nay (Alexander Valley); $40. Oaky Husch 2009 Chardonnay (Mendo- and ripe, this Chardonnay shows soft flavors of Morro Bay 2008 Split Oak Vine- 87 cino); $15. A good Chardonnay, rich pineapples, Meyer lemons, mangoes and sweetly 82 yard Sur Lie Chardonnay (Califor- and creamy in pineapple, lime, Asian pear, vanilla smoked vanilla oak. Made in the modern style for nia); $12. Simple and honey sweet, with and new oak flavors. It’s balanced with crisp acid- drinking now. —S.H. pineapple and buttered toast flavors. Gets the job ity. Drink now. —S.H. done. —S.H. Paradise Ridge 2008 Sapphire Hill Kynsi 2008 Clone 76 Chardonnay 86 Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian 87 (Edna Valley); $18. Except for some River Valley); $30. Sweetly ripe and oaky, with GEWÜRZTRAMINER excessive sweetness, this is a brilliant wine. It’s pineapple jam, kiwi, pear and green apple, and bright and clean in acidity, offering pineapple, notes of vanilla, buttered popcorn and cream. Dutton-Goldfield 2009 Dutton lime and golden mango flavors that go on and on Defines the fruit-forward, buttery style of 92 Ranch Green Valley Vineyard into the spicy finish. No question how delicious it Chardonnay in a soft, forward way. —S.H. Gewürztraminer (Green Valley); $25. A is, but could be a bit drier and firmer. —S.H. great followup to the ’08, which was one of the Costa de Oro 2008 Gold Coast best Gewürztraminers of the vintage. The ’09 is Paradise Ridge 2008 Nagasawa Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa 85 even better, with a crisp, minerally mouthfeel, Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian Maria Valley); $25. So sweet and caramelized 87 and superrich flavors of tropical fruits, spices and River Valley); $35. Very ripe and bright in in smoky oak, it tastes almost like a dessert wine. honeysuckle flowers. No oak, no malolactic and lemon, lime, apricot, apple, pear, vanilla, buttered There might even be some leftover sugar in the just a slight touch of sweetness on the finish. Edi- toast and honeysuckle flavors. The acidity is strong wine. Yet it has brisk, refreshing acidity, and tors’ Choice. —S.H. and bright. It’s a good, rich Chardonnay despite there’s no denying the deliciousness of the needing more subtlety and complexity. —S.H. pineapple and lemon-pie flavors. —S.H. Novy 2009 Gewürztraminer (Russ- ian River Valley); $19. A wonderful Sonoma-Loeb 2008 Reserve Dry Creek Vineyard 2008 Foggy 91 Gewürz. You never know what to expect from this Chardonnay (Carneros); $27. Made Oaks Chardonnay (Russian River 87 85 varietal, but in this case the wine is basically dry, in the modern California Chardonnay style you’ll Valley); $20. Made in the modern style of and freshly crisp in acidity. The flavors are com- either love or hate. It’s enormously extracted in oaky softness and jammy ripe fruit. Shows plex, ranging from oranges, pineapples and honey- pineapple tart, crème brûlée and honey-drizzled appealing pineapple, pear, buttered toast and suckle to star anise, toffee and the famous spices of buttered toast flavors, and the acidity is bright vanilla cream flavors, with just enough acidity for Gewürztraminer. There’s also a rich, creamy tex- and clean. The superrichness would benefit from balance. —S.H. greater control. —S.H. ture. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Hopper Creek 2007 Los Chamizal Ventana 2008 Chardonnay Vineyards Chardonnay (Sonoma Husch 2008 Late Harvest Gewürz- 85 traminer (Anderson Valley); $20. 87 (Arroyo Seco); $13. The aromas and Valley); $35. Rich flavors of peaches, pears, 89 tastes of oak dominate this Chardonnay, with but- buttercream and toast appear in this dry This superrich wine, with 12.7% residual sugar, is tered toast and sweet caramel riding high over Chardonnay, which shows no signs of tiredness, very sweet. It dazzles with honeyed flavors of tan- the pineapple, mango and pear flavors. But crisp although many 2007s do. The chief problem is gerines and Asian pears, with creamy notes of acidity provides needed balance, and there’s a excessive softness. It lacks balancing acidity and vanilla bean and smoky pie crust. Could be fine minerality that gives a tang of stone. A good brightness. —S.H. denser and more concentrated, but it’s a flashy price for a Chard this complicated. —S.H. dessert wine. —S.H. Jargon 2009 Chardonnay (Califor- Bedarra 2008 Reserve Chardonnay 85 nia); $10. A sweet Chardonnay, made 86 (Dry Creek Valley); $29. Lots of rich, in the popular style. It’s rich and creamy in vanilla SAUVIGNON BLANC forward pineapple, ripe pear jam, vanilla cream and buttered toast, with fruity notes of pineapple and buttered toast flavors in this Chardonnay. It and Key lime pie. Best Buy. —S.H. Cornerstone 2009 Sauvignon will satisfy your sweet tooth, with its honey-rich 90 Blanc (Napa Valley); $25. This lovely finish. Drink now. —S.H. EOS 2008 Chardonnay (Central Sauvignon Blanc was cold fermented, then aged 84 Coast); $14. A little harsh and rugged on the lees in neutral oak barrels. That was the Chamisal Vineyards 2009 Stainless around the edges, but shows good Chardonnay perfect way to treat the grapes, which were 86 Unoaked Chardonnay (Central character. Peaches and cream, pineapple fruit and grown in St. Helena. The wine shows rich flavors Coast); $18. Lots of tropical fruit, orange, lime, buttered toast flavors lead to a clean finish. —S.H. of limes, green melons and lemongrass, with a

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 softly creamy texture and a long, spicy, honey- if a little one-dimensional. No denying the lush- Hopper Creek 2009 Massa Ranch rich finish. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. ness of the pineapple, orange and golden apricot 80 Sauvignon Blanc (Yountville); $25. fruit flavors, or the pretty spices. Sémillon adds a Unripe and sour, with ammonia aromas and fla- Estancia 2009 Pinnacles Ranches cashew nut oiliness. Could use greater dryness vors that barely veer into gooseberries. —S.H. 90 Sauvignon Blanc (Monterey and acidity. —S.H. County); $12. A picture perfect Sauvignon Blanc. Really defines the variety in California, Paradise Ridge 2009 Grandview PINOT GRIGIO with rich, ripe tangerine, pear, green melon and 87 Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Russian vanilla spice flavors, brightened with brisk acidity. River Valley); $20. Pretty rich and exotic for a Bella Ragazza 2009 Pinot Grigio Shows a lot of complexity and class, and look at Sauvignon Blanc, with tropical fruit and orange that price. Easy to find, with 15,000 cases pro- 84 (California); $9. Simple and crisp, with fruit flavors that might easily be Viognier. But it duced. Best Buy. —S.H. well-acidified and slightly sweet flavors of apri- shows Sauvignon’s zingy acidity, and finishes a little cots and tangerines. —S.H. sweet. Easy to drink on its own. —S.H. Atmosphere 2009 Denmark Street Vineyard Tribute Fumé Blanc Concannon 2009 Selected Vine- 88 Robert Hall 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Valley); $20. A worthy followup to yards Pinot Grigio (Central Coast); (Paso Robles); $14. The initial odor, 84 the 2008, showing crisp acidity and rich flavors of 86 probably from sulfur, will blow off quickly with $10. Lots of people will be attracted to this wine, citrus fruits, New Zealand-style gooseberries, and especially at this price. It’s clean and crisp, with vanilla spice, with a honey sweet finish. Drink decanting. It’s crisp and bright in pineapples, now with Vietnamese food or sushi. —S.H. limes, pears and green apples, with a touch of tart slightly sweet citrus, peach, green apple and gooseberry. —S.H. vanilla flavors. Easy to find, with 25,000 cases Husch 2009 Sauvignon Blanc produced. —S.H. 88 (Mendocino); $13. This brilliantly Maddalena 2009 Sauvignon Blanc crisp Sauvignon Blanc is racy in acids and miner- 85 (Paso Robles); $14. A little thin in fla- Redtree 2009 Pinot Grigio (Califor- als, making it clean and zesty in the mouth. But it vor, but likeable for its pleasant flavors of citrus 83 nia); $7. High in acidity and ripe in also has rich waves of citrus, green apple, melon fruits, green grass and vanilla, with a firm spine pineapple and vanilla flavors, this is a simple and tropical fruit flavors. For all the opulence, it of minerality. Zesty acidity makes it finish wine. It has sweet and sour flavors, like a sour finishes dry. Production was 7,640 cases. Best clean. —S.H. cough drop. —S.H. Buy. —S.H. Signaterra Benziger 2009 Shone Morro Bay 2009 Split Oak Estates 85 Farm Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc VIOGNIER 88 Sur Lie Sauvignon Blanc (Califor- (Russian River Valley); $26. Dry and crisp, nia); $12. Showing lovely, delicate orange and with pure citrus flavors of Meyer lemon, lime and Calera 2009 Viognier (Mt. Harlan); citron flavors, this Sauvignon Blanc is clean and pink grapefruit. The acidity is strong and mouth- $30. Shows the rich, exotic notes that a zesty in acidity. It’s so refreshingly dry, and has watering. There’s also a potent note of unripe 92 such a tangy minerality, that it’s a pleasure to drink ammonia. —S.H. Calera Viognier always displays. Waves of tropical as a cocktail sipper. Best Buy. —S.H. fruits, peaches, honeysuckle flower, vanilla cream Highway 12 2009 Sauvignon and buttered toast flatter the palate, leading to a The Grade 2009 Sea-Fog Sauvi- Blanc (Sonoma Valley); $14. Sweet long, spicy sweet finish. Drink now. —S.H. gnon Blanc (Calistoga); $25. The 84 88 and sour, like a Chinese pineapple sauce, and grapes were grown in Calistoga, and they have there’s an ammonia taste that detracts. On the Calera 2009 Viognier (Central yielded a fat, soft, flavorful wine. It brims with plus side there’s mouthwatering acidity and a Coast); $16. lemon, lime, melon, fig and honeysuckle flavors. 91 This 2009 shows the vari- clean finish. —S.H. Partial barrel fermentation adds a welcome touch etal’s fantastic wealth of exotic tropical fruits, of smoked cream. —S.H. flowers, honey and spices. But it’s also vibrant in Night Harvest by R.H. Phillips NV acidity, with a core of cold minerality. Editors’ Sauvignon Blanc (California); $7. A V. Sattui 2008 Vittorio’s Vineyard 84 Choice. —S.H. 88 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley); little sweet in apricot, orange and pineapple fla- vors, like a fruit juice blend. But it’s refreshingly $22. This lovely Sauvignon Blanc is a little sweet EOS 2009 Steinbeck Vineyard in honey. But the acidity is crisp, and there’s a crisp at an everyday price. Best Buy. —S.H. 88 Viognier (Paso Robles); $22. Brings fine mineral undertow to the fresh peach, citrus a welcome dryness and crisp structure to this and green apple flavors, so the finish feels dry Concannon 2009 Selected Vine- and clean. —S.H. 83 yards Sauvignon Blanc (Central Viognier. Tastes almost like Sauvignon Blanc, Coast); $10. This is a soft, simple wine that with orange and lime flavors and a bright, clean Duckhorn 2009 Sauvignon Blanc tastes like a fruit juice blend of pineapples, finish. Recommends itself as a good, alternative 87 (Napa Valley); $27. Soft and delicious, oranges and mangoes. It’s a little sweet. —S.H. . —S.H.

WineMag.com | 27 BUYING I GUIDE

wine, kind of a mongrel with its array of varietals, pineapples, Asian pears and limes. Finishes off-dry, but rich and satisfying. Braced with crisp acidity, with a honeysuckle richness. Best Buy. —S.H. it offers flavors of tangerines, peaches, Meyer Ty Caton 2009 Riesling (Central lemons, limes, green apples and honey, with a Holly’s Hill 2009 Estate Roussanne 86 Coast); $28. It’s dry to slightly off- pleasant minerality. The blend is Viognier, Ries- 87 (El Dorado); $18. This is a dry, clean, dry, with clean, zesty acidity and decent flavors of ling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot crisp Roussanne wine whose dominant flavors citrus fruits, green apples, Asian pears and Gris. —S.H. are of oranges and apricots. Oak brings addi- peaches. —S.H. tional notes of vanilla and buttered toast. It’s a Novella 2009 Synergy Blanc (Paso good, elegant wine to try as an alternative to Chateau St. Jean 2009 Riesling 86 Robles); $10. A useful wine that will play Chardonnay. —S.H. 85 (Sonoma County); $15. One- well against umami-flavored appetizers. It’s dryish dimensional in fruit, but clean and zesty, and to off-dry and crisp in acids, with pleasant pineap- Novella 2009 Rayons de Soleil likeable for its wealth of orange, Asian pear, ple, orange and vanilla flavors. The blend is Sauvi- 86 Muscat Canelli (Paso Robles); $11. vanilla and honeysuckle flavors. The finish is off- gnon Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay The sweet flavors of honey and oranges make this dry and spicy. —S.H. and Grenache Blanc. Best Buy. —S.H. wine taste delicious and generous. It could be crisper and have additional layers of complexity, Ventana 2009 Riesling (Arroyo Bedarra 2009 Beachfront (Dry but a little sugar goes a long way. —S.H. 85 Seco); $11. With high acidity making 84 Creek Valley); $18. This blend of Sauvi- for a stinging mouthfeel, and 1.3% residual sugar gnon Blanc and Chardonnay is simple and slightly Calera 2009 Aligoté (Mt. Harlan); giving some, but not enough, soft relief, the sweet. It has flavors of oranges, pineapples and 84 $20. Tastes like an inferior Chardonnay, result is a compromise between a sweet and a apricots, wrapped into a creamy texture. —S.H. with overoaked flavors of tangerines, pineapples dry wine, which will satisfy fans of neither. Still, and buttered popcorn. —S.H. it’s ultraclean, and the apple and honeysuckle David Girard 2008 Coda Blanc (El flavors are appealing. —S.H. 84 Dorado); $18. Simple, acidic and slightly sweet, with tangerine, lime, papaya, hon- OREGON eysuckle, vanilla and spice flavors. Could use BLENDED WHITE WINES more dryness. A blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, RED WINES Viognier and others. —S.H. Nobility 2007 Late Harvest Sauvi- PINOT NOIR 92 gnon Blanc-Sémillon (Napa County-Sonoma County); $75. Extra- OTHER WHITE WINES Adelsheim 2008 Quarter Mile ordinarily sweet, with fantastic honey, apricot, 94 Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir pineapple, orange marmalade, buttered toast EOS 2008 Tears of Dew Late Har- (Chehalem Mountains); $90. Sadly, just 44 and vanilla cream flavors. What’s not to like? 92 vest Moscato (Paso Robles); $22. cases were produced, from Block 1 of the original Could be more complex, but dazzles for sheer Another beautifully rich, satisfying Tears of Dew estate vineyard. Rhubarb, cherry, cinnamon and decadence. —S.H. from EOS. This is one of California’s most consis- suggestions of light tropical fruits are delicately tently successful dessert wines. The ’08 is very entwined here. It would be easy to skip over the Atmosphere 2009 La Prenda Vine- sweet and opulent in honey, apricot jam, ’s complexity; you must let it breathe open 87 yard Dos Burros Marsanne-Rous- sorbet and crème brûlée flavors. So easy to drink, and it will reward you with fascinating, subtle lay- sanne (Sonoma Valley); $35. Superrich in and the alcohol is refreshingly low at 11%. Edi- ers that slowly unravel. —P.G. tangerine, peach, lime, mango and honey flavors, tors’ Choice. —S.H. this Rhône-style white blend is balanced with Adelsheim 2008 Boulder Bluff crisp acidity and a nice touch of minerality. It’s a EOS 2008 Private Reserve Special 93 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Chehalem wine to drink now. —S.H. 89 Limited Edition Pinot Blanc Mountains); $68. Quickly becoming one of (Arroyo Grande Valley); $22. The texture of Adelsheim’s most important vineyard designates, Holly’s Hill 2009 Patriarche Blanc this Pinot Blanc is Chardonnay-like, but the fla- this beautifully balanced wine opens with pun- 87 (El Dorado); $25. This is one of those vors veer more toward tangerines and oranges, gent, primary fruits, a jumble of berries and cher- wines that taste sweet and dry at the same time. with a buttered toast, honey and vanilla richness. ries in the nose and mouth. It lengthens into There’s superripe orange and pineapple mar- It’s a rich, creamy, complicated wine, a little sweet raspberry compote complexity, limned with dark malade fruit, but then clean acidity and a stony and soft, but a good partner with complex lob- chocolate and highlighted with peppery greens. minerality wash over the palate, making the finish ster, shrimp and scallop dishes. —S.H. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. dry. It’s an interesting blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Viognier. —S.H. Husch 2009 Chenin Blanc (Mendo- Mark Ryan 2008 Black Love 88 cino); $11. No oak on this crisp wine, 92 Lachini Vineyard Pinot Noir San Antonio 2009 Heritage Blanc whose flavors are so immediately likeable. It’s (Willamette Valley); $50. With beautiful aro- 87 (Central Coast); $18. A very nice bright and clean in acidity, with racy notes of mas, and naturally light Pinot Noir color, this

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 walks the line between feminine grace and mas- Lange 2008 Freedom Hill Vineyard and even hints at bourbon-soaked raisins, but culine muscle. Scents and flavors are purely vari- 90 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); within a context of a very cool vintage. Good bal- etal, with cherry, cola, rose petals and spicy $60. Fine structure, sharp acids and well-defined ance and restraint, with the structure to age tobacco leaf. The balance is perfect and the wine tannins provide the framework for this single- gracefully for up to a decade. —P.G. lingers into a smooth, seamless finish. —P.G. vineyard wine. The fruit is tart and carries a citrus component, along with wild berries. In the mouth Amity Vineyards 2008 Sunnyside Adelsheim 2008 Bryan Creek Vine- it brings in suggestions of bacon fat and thyme, 89 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); $35. 91 yard Pinot Noir (Chehalem Moun- with the fruit continuing into a clean, precise, The Sunnyside Pinot Noirs are consistently pretty tains); $75. How astonishing to find an Oregon tightly wound finish. —P.G. wines, with tempting aromas of ripe cherries, Pinot Noir just under 13% alcohol that is fully underscored with spicy herb. Barrel aging brings a ripe and fragrant with a perfect balance of fruit, Patton Valley 2008 Pinot Noir chocolate wash to the finish; all in all a very drink- herb and mineral. The young raspberry fruit fla- 90 (Willamette Valley); $35. Fragrant able effort best enjoyed when young. —P.G. vors and overall lightness of this wine match with cranberry and strawberry fruit, this forward beautifully with lox or smoked salmon. Despite its and appealing wine looks and drinks like a cru Lange 2008 Three Hills Cuvée Pinot elegance, this strikes me as a wine that could turn Beaujolais. The tasty fruit is delineated with a 89 Noir (Willamette Valley); $40. A out to be quite long-lived, given its impeccable chocolate lining, and the tannins carry a whiff of blend of three vineyard sites, this fragrant wine balance. Cellar Selection. —P.G. fresh earth. —P.G. offers subtle scents of truffle and earth along with pomegranate and raspberry. The fruit flavors have Adelsheim 2008 Calkins Lane Vista Hills 2008 Tusculum Estate a dusty character, and there is a strong mineral 90 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Chehalem 90 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $44. streak that washes through the midpalate. Give this Mountains); $68. One of the most distinctive Vista Hills is in a sweet spot in the Dundee Hills, plenty of breathing time. —P.G. with neighbors including DDO and Domaine among Adelsheim’s single-vineyard Pinot Noirs, Serene. This puts the fruit front and center, a Ponzi 2008 Pinot Noir (Willamette the Calkins Lane bottling does not shy away from panoply of berries and melon, lightly edged with Valley); $35. Ponzi’s mainstream Pinot earthy, herbal flavors, including forest floor, truf- 89 toast. Warm, forward and palate-friendly, it rolls Noir really brings the fruit in 2008, a wealth of fle and wet leaf. But there’s plenty of fruit, a mix into a finish with a hint of sassafras. —P.G. blueberry and black raspberry flavors. From of ripe red apple, pomegranate, wild cherry and aging in 30% new French oak come streaks of plum. —P.G. Willamette Valley Vineyards 2008 clove and anise, with just a hint of moist loam. Signature Cuvée Pinot Noir Tannins are light and ripe. —P.G. Brandborg 2007 Bench Lands 90 (Willamette Valley); $50. A selection of Pinot Noir (Umpqua Valley); $22. 90 estate, Tualatin and Elton vineyard fruit, this car- Vista Hills 2008 Marylhurst Estate Light and aromatic, this delicate and poised wine ries the style of those wines to a more refined, Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $36. seduces with lush aromas of cherries and baking 89 high-toned level. The fruit is a bit more complex, Full-flavored, broadly-displayed and engaging spices. It has the elegance that only fine Pinot and highlighted with baking spice, incense and with a mix of cranberry, raspberry and Bing Noir can express. Here the subtleties have been toasted nuts. Just under 14% alcohol, it retains cherry, this tasty Pinot Noir fills in the back end coaxed into rich expression, with details of spice the essential character of the elegant Pinot Noir with pleasing barrel flavors. Buttered toast and and incense and chocolate truffles adding to the grape, but pushes it to a point where some heat caramel give it a smooth and creamy finish, and lingering finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. comes into the finish. —P.G. the alcohol is right at 13.5%. —P.G.

King Estate 2008 Domaine Pinot Adelsheim 2008 Ribbon Springs Willamette Valley Vineyards 2008 90 Noir (Oregon); $60. The wine is King 89 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Ribbon 89 Elton Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eola- Estate’s superpremium offering, made exclusively Ridge); $68. The winery names Ribbon Springs Amity Hills); $45. Eola-Amity Hills has a dis- with organically grown grapes from the estate its “most important source” of Pinot Noir grapes. tinctive “voice” in the newly-defined Willamette vineyard. Lush and earthy, it’s got a lot of for- The Ribbon Ridge AVA, a small subset of the Valley AVAs. It brings in earth and herb in a ward, tart berry fruit power, turns a bit soft in the northern Willamette Valley, is distinguishing itself round and integrated style, not abrasive or middle, and sails away with a hint of heat and a for refined, focused Pinots such as this. Raspber- stemmy, but adding Burgundy-like notes to the lick of chocolate. —P.G. ries and rocks collide in midpalate, with a lick of essential Pinot Noir character. The fruit is light milk chocolate as it fades into a gentle finish. The and mixes cherry and citrus, and the tannins are Lange 2008 Estate Vineyard Pinot alcohol is listed at 13.2%. —P.G. proportionate and supple. —P.G. 90 Noir (Dundee Hills); $60. Nice black cherry and black currant fruit flavors are wrapped Amalie Robert 2007 Estate Pinot Amalie Robert 2007 Amalie’s in a casing of stone and earth. This wine seems to 89 Noir (Willamette Valley); $50. A 88 Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- be holding itself back, perhaps just in need of fur- barrel selection from the 30-acre estate vineyard, ley); $50. From a cool site in a cool year, this ther cellaring, certainly requiring decanting. It’s this has a bit more muscle than its companion wine shows thoughtful winemaking and attention compact, elegant and well balanced, but shy. A Amalie’s Cuvée, with a more firm and full mid- to detail. It’s a finesse wine, balanced and poised, pleasing streak of truffle elevates the finish. —P.G. palate. The fruit reaches into orange and plum and the flavors, though light, are persistent; pome-

WineMag.com | 29 BUYING I GUIDE granate, pie cherry, breakfast tea and a hint of Amity Vineyards 2008 Bass Hill soft, round Cabernet, full-bodied and etched in tobacco come into play, with a thin suggestion of 87 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); dark, smoky tannins. The alcohol reaches 14.8% sassafras. But there is nothing unripe or unpleas- $30. Light berry fruit, alcohol around 13%, a but does not burn; the fruit is a mix of figs and ant, and the tannins are nicely managed. —P.G. pale color, and plenty of acidity characterize this plums and ripe black cherries. Already four years Pinot Noir. Still tightly wound, it may add some old, it’s drinking very well now and may be at its Amity Vineyards 2008 Crannell flesh with further bottle age. The aromas hint at best over the next couple of years. —P.G. 88 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); tomato leaf, and the wine fades gently. —P.G. $35. The 2008 Crannell leans to the herbaceous Ancient Cellars 2008 Amphorae side of Oregon Pinot Noir, relatively low in listed Amity Vineyards 2008 Pinot Noir 84 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rogue Val- alcohol (13%). Cranberry is the dominant fruit 87 (Willamette Valley); $22. Soft, pretty ley); $28. Dark and scented with clove, licorice flavor, along with fresh herbs and whiffs of and pleasant to drink, the widely-available and bitter herb, this is a hard-edged Cabernet tomato leaf. —P.G. Willamette Valley bottling from Amity might pass with a soft center of barely-ripe fruit. Some plum for a simple Bourgogne rouge. Cranberry and and prune notes are here, and the tannins have Amity Vineyards 2008 Estate Pinot watermelon fruits form the basis for the flavors, been softened, but the stemmy, herbal character 88 Noir (Willamette Valley); $35. which feature light, balanced tannins and a clean, dominates. —P.G. From the estate vineyard, this delicate effort gentle fade into the finish. —P.G. offers tart, racy, pie cherry fruit flavor, wrapped in Valley View 2006 Anna Maria substantial acids. There’s a kiss of light chocolate, Willamette Valley Vineyards 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Applegate Whole Cluster Fermented Pinot 84 and the overall balance is just right. —P.G. 87 Valley); $24. There is a sharp, penetrating scent Noir (Willamette Valley); $20. At just 12.5% of stem and tomato leaf here. Behind it is a wine Brandborg 2007 Love Puppets alcohol, you’ll find this lively, light, fruity Pinot well along the aging curve, the fruit thinning away, Pinot Noir (Umpqua Valley); $30. has a sweet core of pretty cherry fruit. Nonethe- 88 the tannins fading into flavors of black tea. —P.G. Pretty and pale, this wine is already showing less, it’s dry and finishes with an astringent, leafy, some sunset shades around the rim, and drinking palate-refreshing scrape of tannin. A fine sipping like a wine with more than just a couple of years wine, with a resonant finish. —P.G. CABERNET FRANC under its belt. That works in its favor, as it offers Winter’s Hill 2008 Pinot Noir cherry-pie fruit, cut tobacco, some minerality and Valley View 2006 Anna Maria a chocolate/coffee kiss in the finish. —P.G. (Willamette Valley); $20. Soft and 86 Cabernet Franc (Rogue Valley); somewhat rustic, this is a flavorful Pinot Noir, 86 $28. Cabernet Franc seems to be a strength in Lange 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir with herb, earth, citrusy acids, leather and quite the Rogue Valley, as the fruit expression is good (Willamette Valley); $32. Released tart cherry fruit. It would not fit into a textbook 88 and the aggressive herbaceousness of Cabernet almost a full year ago, this wine has had a chance definition of classic varietal flavor, but it feels Sauvignon is somewhat tamed. Here the aromas to settle into a groove in the bottle. It is a handmade, and it is light years beyond much of are blackberry and cassis, and those fruit flavors medium plum color, lightly scented with herb, the corporate plonk being labeled Pinot Noir are threaded with smoke and coffee. Balanced green and black tea, and Bing cherry. The flavors these days. —P.G. are astringent and compact, with a pretty burst of into a light, herbal finish. —P.G. cherry in the core. —P.G. Ancient Cellars 2008 One Toe Duck Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- Ancient Cellars 2008 Terebinth 84 Cabernet Franc (Rogue Valley); Willamette Valley Vineyards 2008 ley); $16. Stemmy, herbal and sharp, with a 83 $28. 88 Estate Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- peppery bite, this seems a bit underripe. There’s Though soft on the finish, this is sharply ley); $40. Light in color, but not in flavor, this some barrel toast from exposure to one third new herbal and stemmy, with woody flavors instead of appealing wine brings pomegranate, cranberry, French oak. It’s a quaffer, best enjoyed with a fruit. There are traces of berry and cassis, but the tart cherry and lots of spice front and center. Bak- meal. —P.G. nature of Cabernet Franc is to be herbal, and ing spices rule the midpalate, elevated with crisp, here it’s in full bloom. —P.G. citrusy acids, and the wine flows into a finish with High Hook 2008 Pinot Noir leaf and herb highlights. Another year or two 83 (McMinnville); $20. Light and might help integrate all the interesting compo- generic, this is a watery effort that doesn’t give RED BLENDS nents; then drink up. —P.G. much pleasure. Simple cherry fruit is thin and quickly disappears. —P.G. Madrone Mountain 2005 Mundo Acrobat 2009 Pinot Noir (Oregon); 90 Novo (Oregon); $38. A fortified red 87 $18. This is dusty, and scented with wine blend of Cab Sauvignon, Cab Franc and earth and pine needles. Quite young, it tastes very CABERNET SAUVIGNON Merlot, the alcohol is a Port-like 19.2%. This is tart, almost like cranberry juice. With significant dark and substantial, with allspice, clove and cin- breathing time it begins to broaden out and hint Pheasant Valley Winery 2006 namon infusing fig- and plum-flavored fruit. The at a dusty, chocolate undertone. Good grip and 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia residual sugar is 6% but the sweetness is not at all medium body. —P.G. Valley); $22. This tastes like a warm climate, overpowering, thanks to the excellent spirit (no

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 burn) and the dense tannins. Try it with figs Patton Valley 2009 Rosé of Pinot stuffed with bleu cheese and walnuts. —P.G. 86 Noir (Willamette Valley); $16. Del- PINOT GRIS icate and pale, this elegant rosé hints at rhubarb Coelho 2008 Tradição Red and strawberry, dappled with light herbs. Tart and Adelsheim 2009 Pinot Gris 88 (Willamette Valley); $26. A blend of refreshing. —P.G. 91 (Willamette Valley); $19. Another four traditional Portuguese grape varietals, this fine success for Adelsheim, a founding Oregon unusual offering begins with a distinctly pruney winery currently on a quality roll. Elegant and nose, and seems soft and slightly oxidized. But as OREGON crisply defined, this textbook Pinot Gris begins it breathes it adds interesting flavors of dried with a mix of fresh pear, honeydew and goose- herbs and forest floor, rustic and complex. —P.G. WHITE WINES berry, then refreshes the palate with juicy acids and some light citrus skin flavors. —P.G. PINOT BLANC OTHER RED WINES Iris Vineyards 2008 Pinot Gris Adelsheim 2009 Bryan Creek 91 (Oregon); $15. A textbook example of Cowhorn 2008 Syrah 74 Syrah 90 Vineyard Pinot Blanc (Chehalem Oregon Pinot Gris, this is bursting with citrus and 91 (Applegate Valley); $35. Cowhorn Mountains); $22. Young, tart and vividly pear fruit. Immaculately clean and crisp, the wines are certified biodynamic and entirely natu- bright, this spicy wine brings Asian pear and bright fruit and lively mouthfeel continue into a ral. This stunning Syrah is inky black, and smells cool citrus flavors to the forefront. It holds lingering, satisfying, tangy finish. All stainless- like a bowl of blueberries and blackberries. well through a lingering finish, with a crisp, steel fermented. Best Buy. —P.G. Threaded through those delicious berry flavors piercing, phenolic grip reminiscent of grapefruit Ancient Cellars 2008 Gilt Pinot are composty highlights of earth and leaf. Beauti- rind. —P.G. Gris (Willamette Valley); $18. High- fully balanced and intriguing; this is as good as 88 toned and sharp, this has a mix of pear, tropical any Oregon Syrah I’ve ever tasted. —P.G. David Hill 2008 Estate Pinot Blanc 90 (Willamette Valley); $15. There’s a fruit, banana, and juicy fruit gum. It’s a fruit salad wine, full-bodied and exceptionally flavorful. Pheasant Valley Winery 2008 delicate lemon scent, leading into a mix of citrus, There’s a streak of butterscotch running through Primitivo (Columbia Valley); $28. grapefruit peel and honeysuckle. The wine gains 89 the finish, from fermentation in “neutral” oak. Hearty, rustic and full throttle (at 15% alcohol), weight in the mouth, showing ripe fruit (yellow Drink up! —P.G. this is a bottle full of Sicilian fruits and flavors. apples) and a soft, lightly oxidized finish with toasted coconut and cracker. Quite delicious, dis- Figs and dates, raisins and allspice, coffee and Benton-Lane 2009 Pinot Gris dark chocolate whirl through the palate, with the tinctive and rich. Best Buy. —P.G. (Willamette Valley); $17. Benton- alcohol leaving a distinct trail through the finish. 88 Lane makes quite a lot of Pinot Gris, stainless- You might consider this in place of a dessert Ponzi 2009 Pinot Blanc steel fermented and whole cluster pressed, (Willamette Valley); $15. It’s diffi- liqueur, served up with stuffed figs, walnuts and 90 yielding a soft, fragrant, fruity wine with plenty of cult to understand why Pinot Blanc has not the bitterest of chocolate. —P.G. fresh pear flavor. It flattens out broadly across the become more of a cult wine in Oregon. Produc- palate, full-bodied and lightly spicy. Just a bit Valley View 2006 Anna Maria ers such as Ponzi make it in a style that is bright, more focus would really elevate this wine to the Tempranillo (Applegate Valley); 86 bursting with citrus and apple fruit flavors, and top ranks. —P.G. $24. Scents of smoke and tanned leather lead elevated with a rose garden’s worth of floral high- into a wine with pale cherry fruit. Tannins are soft lights. This wine would be a perfect start to a hol- King Estate 2009 Signature Pinot and acids muted; the wine is drinking optimally at iday meal. Best Buy. —P.G. 88 Gris (Oregon); $17. Spicy scents the moment. Quite light, but in balance, and fine introduce a fresh and fleshy pear-flavored Pinot for the sort of food you’d enjoy with a simple Amity Vineyards 2008 Pinot Blanc Gris, with a crisp underpinning of wet stone and Rioja. —P.G. 87 (Willamette Valley); $17. The dark medium acids. Citrus peel, light orange and tones suggest a wine that is already somewhat oxi- pineapple weave into the midpalate, and the wine dized, and the apple cider fruit flavor seems to fills the mouth without being heavy. —P.G. ROSÉ confirm the impression. Quite dry and mellow, it’s time to drink this one up. —P.G. Winter’s Hill 2009 Pinot Gris Ponzi 2009 Rosato Pinot Noir Rosé 87 (Dundee Hills); $15. This estate- 88 (Willamette Valley); $17. A pale High Hook 2008 Pinot Blanc grown Pinot Gris has a pleasing delicacy, balanc- salmon color, this is all Pinot Noir, picked early 85 (McMinnville); $15. Straightforward, ing light citrus with whiffs of pine and a base of for the purpose of making rosé. Quite dry and leesy, fresh, simple Pinot Blanc, with a mix of pear and cucumber. Just 13% alcohol, it might elegant, it’s a juicy, acidic wine, with pretty straw- jicama, celery and yellow apple flavors. There’s a strike some tasters as a little thin, but it would berry and watermelon flavors highlighted with bit of cinnamon spice in the finish; this is a good, make a fine accompaniment to a course of soft, zesty spice. —P.G. everyday sipping wine. —P.G. creamy cheeses. —P.G.

WineMag.com | 31 BUYING I GUIDE

core, and the wine has a wonderful richness with- Sparkling Pointe 2004 Blanc de ROUSSANNE out losing its finesse or acid base. Editors’ 88 Blancs (North Fork of Long Island); Choice. —P.G. $42. Light and frothy in the glass, this beauti- Seven of Hearts 2009 Roussanne fully perfumed dry sparkling is redolent of orange 85 (Columbia Valley); $24. Quite dry Amity Vineyards 2008 Sunnyside blossoms, apples and pears. A blend of Pinot and tasting more of skin than fruit, this has a bit- 90 Vineyard Dry Gewürztraminer Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, there’s a ter, alcoholic edge to it. The fruit hints at banana (Willamette Valley); $20. Amity’s dry Gewürz- delicious hint of buttery cashew nut and bitter and light tropical. —P.G. traminer is one of Oregon’s finest, and a major almond amidst the floral, fresh apple and lemon strength of the winery. In this new vintage it shows flavors. —A.I. Valley View 2008 Anna Maria broad and rich flavors, that run the spectrum from Roussanne (Applegate Valley); Hermann J. Wiemer 2006 Cuvée 85 floral and spicy to sweetly honeyed. It’s dry, make $24. Woody and blocky, with light peach-fla- Brut 30th Anniversary Edition no mistake, but carries an impression of fruit 87 vored fruit. Though neutral barrels are indicated, (Finger Lakes); $25. Bone dry with aromas of sweetness. The deepening gold color suggests it has an overriding woody note. The fruit thins freshly pressed apples, this is an austere but ele- some early oxidation, and the caramel and toasted out quickly, with some bitterness (from skins?) gant sparkling blend of Chardonnay and Pinot grain flavors are already at their peak. —P.G. and a little vanilla wafer in the aftertaste. —P.G. Noir. With notes of delicate white florals and yeast in the backdrop, the palate has a savory, Kestrel 2008 Old Vine Sauvignon dusty quality accented by a racy acidity and Blanc (Columbia Valley); $20. WHITE BLENDS 88 Old strong, minerally finish. —A.I. vine (1967 planting) Sauvignon Blanc from Ore- Cowhorn 2009 Spiral 36 (Apple- gon? OK, this is a rarity. The wine has a gentle Martha Clara NV Brut (North Fork 90 gate Valley); $22. This biodynamic grace, and manages to convey layering and com- 87 of Long Island); $22. Refreshingly Rhône blend is equal parts of Marsanne, Rous- plexity within a fairly light frame. Moderate acid- effervescent with a fresh apple and lemon nose, sanne and Viognier, co-fermented with native ity, some yeasty texture, and a mix of apple and this dry sparkler is a blend of Chardonnay and yeast. It’s a splendid example of the non- citrus fruit all come together in a clean, fresh, Pinot Noir. The delicate lather is soft and mouth- interventionist style, rich, and textural. The yeasty well-balanced effort. —P.G. filling with a clean minerality and pleasant lemon flavors are refreshing—pear and apple and peel finish. —A.I. cucumber fruit holding down the center—clean Amity Vineyards 2008 Riesling and solid. The wine gains power and brings in 86 (Willamette Valley); $18. Dry and Martha Clara NV Brut Rosé (North some toasty barrel flavors as it rolls into the papery, this not-quite-settled wine shows threads 86 Fork of Long Island); $16. Pale finish. —P.G. of fruit (green apple, pineapple), toasted cracker peach in color with savory aromas of apple, pear (odd in a Riesling) and plenty of sharp acidity. and buttered toast, this softly pétillant brut rosé Madrone Mountain 2008 Starthis- Time may be the missing ingredient here, but it’s hits the palate a touch sweet. Made from Pinot 88 tle Cuvée (Oregon); $24. An unusual difficult to assess at the moment. —P.G. Noir with a splash of Chardonnay, it balances blend of Riesling, Huxelrebe, Viognier and Sauvi- bracingly high acidity with rich, buttery biscuit gnon Blanc, this has residual sugar of almost 3%, Valley View 2008 Anna Maria flavors and a dry finish. —A.I. but marries the sweetness to a Vouvray-like tart- 84 Viognier (Applegate Valley); $22. ness. Your tongue dances back and forth from Martha Clara 2002 Blanc de Blanc This is a tight, sharp, pungent Viognier, with pen- honey to tea, from sweet to dry. Excellent length (North Fork of Long Island); $20. etrating scents of lemon oil and pine. In the 86 and a wash of fresh cut orange as it fades. —P.G. This Chardonnay and Pinot Noir blend smells mouth it is grapefruity and slightly bitter, with a sweetly of caramel apples and cider. Dry, but rich perception of almond skin as it fades away. —P.G. Seven of Hearts 2009 Viognier- on the palate with notes of sweet vanilla and 87 Roussanne (Columbia Valley); $20. caramel, its simple and straightforward but offers Yellow/gold, lightly honeyed, with a yeasty charac- a nice, stony finish. —A.I. ter. Peach pit and nectarine, with a finishing NEW YORK touch of Meyer lemon, add length and some SPARKLING WINES Sparkling Pointe 2005 Topaz complexity. Drink soon. —P.G. 86 Impérial (North Fork of Long Island); $33. Pale peach in color, this softly Sparkling Pointe 2006 Brut (North sparkling blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and OTHER WHITE WINES 89 Fork of Long Island); $29. There’s a Chardonnay smells sweetly of red apples and a refined elegance to this delicious sparkler made hint of lanolin. There’s a gentle sweetness upon Lange 2009 Three Hills Cuvée from a classic blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meu- entry that carries through the finish with a bright 92 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley); nier and Chardonnay. Soft bubbles burst with a acidity and pleasant apple and pear notes. —A.I. $30. This is a luscious, butterscotchy, fresh, lime- bouquet of freshly baked brioche, fresh pears and and lemon-flavored Chardonnay; a true delight. delicate white flowers. The palate is dry with a Wölffer 2006 Brut Blanc de Blanc Melon and peach fruit flavors thread into the brisk, minerally, lemon-lime profile. —A.I. 86 (Long Island); $35. This vividly effer-

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 vescent sparkling Chardonnay offers notes of palate, juicy, ripe black fruit flavors gain complex- Comtesse Thérèse 2004 Château bruised apples and pears on the nose and a palate ity from a rich, earthy mushroom notes in the 86 Reserve Merlot (North Fork of of rustic apple cider and lime pith flavors. A midpalate. Luscious and smooth with medium Long Island); $30. Layers of char, black pep- bright, lemony acidity makes this a refreshing, body and soft acidity. —A.I. per and briar patch help to build complexity in easy-drinking sparkler that would match perfectly this dense, concentrated black plum Merlot. with pork in a braised apple sauce. —A.I. Comtesse Thérèse 2005 Hungar- There’s a touch of green leaf and tomato through- 87 ian Oak Merlot (North Fork of out, but overall, it’s a fruit-driven, luscious wine Wölffer 2006 Noblesse Oblige Long Island); $20. Judicious use of darkly accented with spice and smooth, supple tannins. 86 Rosé Sparkling Wine (The Hamp- toasted Hungarian oak results in a surprisingly Aged 24 months in new French oak. —A.I. tons, Long Island); $40. Wonderfully frothy sexy, supple wine that’s dripping with vanilla and in the glass, this round, rich sparkling wine smells spicy dark plum flavors. There’s a slight green Comtesse Thérèse 2005 First Har- sweetly of apple cider and buttered toast. This twinge to the black cherry flavors on the palate, 86 vest Merlot (North Fork of Long Pinot Noir/Chard blend has plenty of toasty, nutty but this is a smooth, easy-drinking Merlot with a Island); $18. After the scent of char blows off a flavors on the palate as well. Fresh apple and long, earthy, espresso finish. —A.I. bit, this first harvest Merlot opens sweetly to aro- lemon notes make this a refreshing, uncompli- mas of vanilla, cinnamon spice and plush, red cated sip with a pleasant walnut skin astringency Comtesse Thérèse 2005 Tradi- plums. There’s a hint of green stalks and leaves on the finish. —A.I. 87 tional Merlot (North Fork of Long detectable on the palate amidst underripe black Island); $18. Wonderfully rich with lush dark cherry and plum flavors, but bright acidity gives Belhurst NV Naturel Sparkling chocolate and espresso notes, this is another this wine a fresh character and the spiced plum Wine (Finger Lakes); $19. 85 Intensely lovely, highly drinkable Merlot from Comtesse finish is pleasant. —A.I. fragrant of gardenias, fresh pears and lanolin, this Thérèse. There’s a good amount of charred oak, dry sparkling may be a bit too perfumed for Comtesse Thérèse 2006 Aque- but it’s integrated seamlessly with concentrated some, but its fresh apple and pear flavors are bogue Estate Merlot (North Fork black plum and berry flavors. The finish is long, 86 pleasant. Dry, with a high-toned acidity, it finishes of Long Island); $18. The nose offers plenty and accented by pleasant astringency of walnut on a slightly bitter, stony note. —A.I. of cooked plum preserves, warm spice and skins and tobacco. —A.I. toasted, nutty oak. There’s a nice, lush texture and Hudson-Chatham 2007 Reserve body, and bright red cherry and plums flavors on MERLOT the palate. The fruit flavors may be slightly lack- Merlot (New York); $22. Full bod- 87 ing in concentration, but supple tannins make for ied with a velvety heft on the palate, this Reserve The Grapes of Roth 2004 Merlot smooth, easy sipping. —A.I. Merlot from Hudson-Chatham offers a striking (Long Island); $50. Aromas of lush 89 balance of intensity and elegance. From the nose black cherries, coffee grinds and darkly toasted Keuka Spring 2007 Merlot (Finger to the palate, there’s a bounty of rich dark fruit, oak meld effortlessly in winemaker Roman Roth’s Lakes); $19. There’s a suppleness to bramble and smoke layered with silky oak and 86 powerful Long Island Merlot. After 21 months in the way oak envelops the ripe, plummy aromas firm tannins. —A.I. French oak, the wine is smooth as silk yet on this Finger Lakes Merlot. The palate is dry, intensely focused with a rich fruit palate accented but ripe and lush with an intensely concentrated Osprey’s Dominion 2007 Reserve by hints of forest floor and bramble, velvety soft dose of fruit. Low in acidity and tannins, it’s a bit Merlot (North Fork of Long tannins and a balanced astringency. Lovely all 87 plush, but makes for easy sipping with food or on Island); $35. around. —A.I. Bright and cheerful with a can- its own. —A.I. died black cherry nose, this is a deliciously fruit- Clovis Point 2007 Vintner’s Select forward yet focused wine. On the palate, soft, Long Island Merlot Alliance 2007 88 Merlot (North Fork of Long fresh fruit and supple vanilla flavors meld beauti- 86 Merliance Merlot (Long Island); Island); $45. Charred oak is prominent here as fully with supple tannins and a rich, dark, roasted $35. Well integrated charred oak melds well with it is with most Long Island reds, but exceptionally coffee finish. —A.I. ripe blackberry and black plum aromas in this well integrated within a rich, round wine full of blend of Merlot from a cooperative of Long supple dark chocolate and fruit flavors. A good Pindar Vineyards 2007 Barrel Island winemakers. This is a full-bodied wine example of yin and yang, Clovis Point’s blend of 87 Select Reserve Merlot (North Fork with an intensely concentrated black fruit charac- Merlot, Cab Sauvignon and Franc, and Syrah off- of Long Island); $19. Made from hand-picked ter, a kick of earthy, barnyard funk and firm, sets dense, sweet boysenberry and mocha notes grapes and unfiltered, this is a richly concen- structured tannins. —A.I. with firm tannins and a dark char finish. —A.I. trated, full-bodied Merlot with an abundance of sweet, juicy black plum and freshly roasted coffee Osprey’s Dominion 2007 Merlot Belhurst 2007 Traditions Merlot flavors. Two years of aging in French oak results 86 (North Fork of Long Island); $20. 87 (New York); $27. A winning combina- in a supple, silky wine with beautifully integrated There’s a profusion of charred oak on the nose and tion of sweet and savory, Belhurst’s Traditions tannins and pleasant notes of darkly toasted palate, but smoke and tar notes combined with a smells deliciously of syrupy boysenberry jam wood. A great pairing with roasted pork tender- slightly cooked plum and cherry profile make this amidst the backdrop of a rustic barnyard. On the loin. —A.I. hearty Merlot a good match for smoked meats or

WineMag.com | 33 BUYING I GUIDE bacon enhanced meals. Subtle violet and barnyard Palmer 2006 Merlot (North Fork of room and smoke flavors add complexity and aromas add some complexity, but the finish drops 85 Long Island); $20. The nose on this depth. —A.I. quickly on a charred wood note. —A.I. medium-bodied Merlot is lush with pleasantly charred oak, forest floor and ripe black plums. Wölffer 2007 Merlot (The Hamp- Sherwood House Vineyards 2004 There’s a decent amount of black fruit on the 85 tons, Long Island); $20. Attractive 86 Merlot (North Fork of Long palate as well, but it’s lacking in concentration, characteristics of charred French oak, ripe black Island); $25. Despite intriguing notes of ripe and exhibits a distinct vegetal note in the back- cherries, coffee and spice linger on the nose and red cherries, menthol and barnyard that peek drop. —A.I. palates, but are chased by a green vein of under- through, tar and smoke from heavily charred ripe fruit and leaves. Gripping tannins drive the French oak dominate both the nose and palate. Raphael 2005 First Label Estate finish to a dusty, dark end note. —A.I. There’s a pleasant midpalate of black fruit and 85 Bottled Merlot (North Fork of pepper spice but its brief appearance is overshad- Long Island); $35. This first label Merlot com- Fox Run 2007 Merlot (Finger owed again by a deep char finish. —A.I. bines pleasant notes of black coffee and plush red 84 Lakes); $20. The nose on this medium- plum with savory aromas of dried mushrooms, bodied Merlot is pleasant with aromas of burnt Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2007 spices and a hint of tomatoes. Gripping tannins coffee, soil and plush red plums. Coffee flavors 85 Merlot (Finger Lakes); $15. This and glimpses of underripe fruit and green stalks mingle on the palate with tart, underripe blue- medium-bodied Merlot wafts fragrantly of sweet, throughout make this wine a tad clunky and dis- berry flavors and a hints of green herbs in the cooked black fruits. On the palate as well, the fruit jointed. —A.I. backdrop. With high acidity and soft tannins, it’s a profile is a bit the pruney side. It’s a softer expres- bit lacking in balance, but interesting tar and sion of Merlot without a lot of acidity or depth, Raphael 2007 Estate Merlot smoke notes on the finish would go well with a smoked meats or bacon. —A.I. but sturdy tannins keep things in balance. —A.I. 85 (North Fork of Long Island); $19. Accented with intriguing notes of charred oak, Harbes Family Vineyard 2006 Clovis Point 2005 Merlot (North dried herbs, porcini mushrooms and a whisper of Cherry Barn Merlot (North Fork of Fork of Long Island); $25. Although peppery grains of paradise, this is a rustic Merlot. 84 85 Long Island); $22. Though the nose seems there’s some underripe black cherry and espresso The midpalate shows hints of underripe red fruit dark and brooding with notes of black cherries, notes on the nose, char dominates both the bou- and raw green peppers, but it’s a sturdy dry red smoke and spice, on the palate, this is surpris- quet and the palate. It’s a savory, rustic wine with- that would hold up well with rustic braised meats ingly light and fresh with a bright sour cherry acid- out a lot of fruit intensity, but it’s a simple wine on a cold winter’s night. —A.I. ity and soft tannins. There’s a hint of green stems for casual dining with rich, meaty fare. —A.I. throughout this fairly light bodied wine. —A.I. Sherwood House Vineyards 2005 Gramercy Vineyards 2007 Merlot Merlot (North Fork of Long 85 Wagner 2007 Merlot (Finger (North Fork of Long Island); $30. Island); $25. Spicy, sweet red plums and 85 Lakes); $15. A medium-bodied wine Made from hand-harvested grapes, there are pleas- charred oak marry well in this limited release 84 with lots of interesting forest moss and earth ant cherry, coffee grind and barnyard notes. Aged wine from Sherwood House. There are hints of notes. The black plum and berry flavors seem in French oak for 18 months, however, dark char tobacco leaf and green grass throughout, but soft, underripe, resulting in a lack of concentration dominates the nose and palate, along with hints of supple tannins and a dark, smoky finish make this and presence, but the soft tannins and brambly green stalks and leaves in the backdrop. —A.I. a pleasant sip. —A.I. finish are pleasant. —A.I.

Harbes Family Vineyard 2007 Old Waters Crest 2007 Grand Vin Mer- Glenora 2008 Merlot (Finger Barn Merlot (North Fork of Long lot (North Fork of Long Island); 85 85 83 Lakes); $25. Though the nose wafts of Island); $20. Although the plush plum and cof- $25. The Grand Vin from Water’s Crest hits the sugary sweet cherry pie and cola, Glenora’s Mer- fee grind flavors combine seductively with hints nose with intense aromas of char, smoke and dark lot is surprisingly vegetal on the palate with an of bramble and earth in this rustic, full-bodied cherries, but is laced with a veil of green, vegetal abundance of green pepper and leafy flavors wine, pervasive notes of char and a stalky, green notes throughout. On the palate, flavors of black throughout. So soft in both tannins and acidity, character make this wine a bit clunky. Sturdy tan- coffee and rich black fruit are followed by a sweet there’s not a lot of structure or heft either. —A.I. nins, combined with black spice and tar drive a vanilla chaser. Sturdy but supple tannins add long finish. —A.I. structure and bite. —A.I. RIESLING Macari 2005 Reserve Merlot (North Wölffer 2005 Lambardo Merlot 85 Fork of Long Island); $36. Jammy, 85 (Long Island); $35. After the initial Hermann J. Wiemer 2008 Mag- sweet aromas of cooked plum preserves and bouquet of charred oak and espresso blow off, 90 dalena Vineyard Dry Riesling (Fin- toasted French oak lead to a palate of dense, con- pretty aromas of ripe black cherries, spice and ger Lakes); $36. From its bright floral nose to its centrated plum fruit and spicy, sweet cinnamon smoke linger on this beautifully balanced, regal soft, sweet finish, there’s a gorgeous femininity to spice. Basic and a touch soft, this Merlot benefits Merlot blend. There’s plenty of coffee and char this outstanding Riesling. Dry in style but accented from sturdy tannins and a balanced acidity. —A.I. on the palate as well, but layers of earth, mush- by notes of pink grapefruit and lychee, Mag-

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 dalena’s daintiness is kept in check with a bracing but plenty of bright apple and pear flavors and a harmony of dark, ripe fruit, espresso grinds and acidity and elegant white tea astringency. —A.I. long orange peel finish make this luscious, dry carefully charred French oak. Coffee and cigar wine a great choice for casual winter fare. —A.I. box notes carry through the palate as well, marry- Hermann J. Wiemer 2008 Dry Ries- ing with fresher red-fruit flavors. There’s quite a 89 ling (Finger Lakes); $18. Intense and Hosmer Winery 2008 Vinter’s bit of tannin to grapple with still, but overall, it’s a bright with a wonderfully complex nose of slate 86 Reserve Riesling (Cayuga Lake); pleasant medium-bodied red. —A.I. and stones, combined with elegantly subdued flo- $25. Sweet, freshly pressed apples seem to gush rals. It’s dry, but there’s a whisper of lemon drop from this medium-bodied, off-dry Reserve. Juicy D.H. Lescombes NV Imperial Kir sweetness throughout. Beautifully balanced with and refreshing with a bright acidity and a hint of 83 Sparkling Blend (New Mexico); an intensely mineral, steely finish. —A.I. lemon rind on the finish, it’s an easy-drinking wine $13. For fans of semisweet bubbly in a bright that would be great for casual entertaining. —A.I. salmon shade, this sparkler offers a confected Hermann J. Wiemer 2008 Semi- nose reminiscent of watermelon Jolly Ranchers. 89 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes); $17. Wagner 2008 Select Riesling (Fin- Softly pétillant with a heavy, syrupy texture, the Beautifully perfumed with luscious stonefruit and 86 ger Lakes); $13. There’s a maturity palate is akin to liquid cotton candy. —A.I. a hint of jasmine blossoms, but not at all cloying, that shines through from the honeyed applesauce this off-dry Riesling is another favorite from Her- and steel aromas in this off-dry Riesling. Rich and mann J. Wiemer. Bouquets of white florals full bodied on the palate, bright, fresh apple and VIRGINIA shower the palate as well, but then retreat in the lemon flavors linger elegantly on the tongue with midpalate allowing elegant mineral and lime fla- a hint of bitter lime pith. —A.I. Lovingston 2007 Josie’s Knoll Mer- vors to shine through. —A.I. 87 lot (Monticello); $15. There’s an Hunt Country Vineyards 2008 interesting counterplay between the bright and Ravines 2008 Argetsinger Vine- 85 Semi-Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes); the dark in Lovingston’s hand-picked, small lot 89 yard Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes); $14. This off-dry Riesling offers plenty of concen- Josie’s Knoll. On the nose, black cherry preserves $25. If you’re looking for a truly bone-dry Ries- trated apple juice flavors accented by a dash of are countered with black pepper spice and char. ling from the Finger Lakes, look no further than lemon and savory apple pie spice. There’s a hint of On the palate, ripe, concentrated black fruit is Ravines. It’s uncharacteristically austere for the petrol throughout that adds a layer of depth, but layered with tar, earth and bramble. It’s elegant region, with a lean, light body and a mineral overall, it’s simple and easy drinking. —A.I. and seductive, but anchored by a core of grip- laden, wet-stone palate. Lots of freshly squeezed ping tannins. —A.I. lime juice and a citrus rind finish makes this an elegant, drinkable choice. —A.I. OTHER U.S. Veramar 2008 Estate Club Merlot 87 (Virginia); $32. Rich and round, this Heron Hill 2008 Semi-Dry Riesling COLORADO offers plenty of concentrated blackberry notes 88 (New York); $13. Rich and round with enveloped in warm spices and supple oak. There’s a seductive nose of honeyed apples and petrol, Two Rivers 2008 Merlot (Grand a hint of green tomato leaves throughout, but the there’s a surprising breadth to this lovely off-dry 86 Valley); $16. Rich and jammy with lush fruit combined with sturdy grape tannins and Riesling from Heron Hill. On the palate, sunny concentrated, cooked blackberry flavors, this high acidity would pair well with fatty short ribs sweet peaches are counterbalanced by a stony, medium-bodied Colorado Merlot melds nicely or braised pork. —A.I. minerally elegance and refreshing lime juice acid- with aromas of toasty, nutty oak. There’s a raw, ity. The finish is long and ends with a pleasant green pepper note that peeks through, but over- Barrel Oak 2008 Merlot (Virginia); jasmine tea astringency. Best Buy. —A.I. all, it’s a pleasant, accessible wine with a delicious 85 $26. Medium-bodied and supple in tex- roasted coffee finish. —A.I. ture, this dark and brambly Virginian Merlot Hermann J. Wiemer 2008 HJW offers plenty of black fruit and warm, savory 87 Vineyard Dry Riesling (Finger spices. Aged in a combination of American and Lakes); $39. An extravagantly perfumed Ries- NEW MEXICO Hungarian oak, there’s a slightly reedy, wooden ling billowing with white jasmine and elderflower note and high-toned acidity on the finish. —A.I. notes. The floral tones are maintained on the Vivác Winery 2006 V. by Vivác Sin- palate as well, but interlaced with notes of stone 86 gle Vineyard Merlot (New Mex- and slate that add richness and complexity. The ico); $25. This single-vineyard Merlot smells AUSTRALIA finish is dry and elegant, ending with a hint of sweetly of ripe black plums with just a whisper of bitter lime pith. —A.I. menthol and Band Aid. Soft on the palate, there’s SPARKLING WINES a good amount of dark fruit, but it’s a tad tired Fox Run 2008 Reserve Riesling and dusty. The finish is strong with a high-toned Frogmore Creek NV 42°S Premier 86 (Seneca Lake); $30. Like many Ries- acidity and firm tannins. —A.I. 90 Cuvee (Tasmania); $20. A lovely, lings from the Finger Lakes, honey and apple cider refined sparkler from Tasmania (hence the 42 aromas perfume Fox Run’s Reserve. A dark, steely Vivác Winery 2007 Merlot (New Degrees South name), this blend of 60% tone on the palate may come off as slightly tinny, 86 Mexico); $17. The nose is a pleasant Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir is toasty and

WineMag.com | 35 BUYING I GUIDE leesy, marked by savory mushroom and bright cit- Bortoli’s Emeri line of sparkling wines are not Hesketh NV The Proposition Pre- rus notes and a long finish. Light and frothy in feel, conventional Pinot Noir-Chardonnay blends. This 82 mium Cuvée (Australia); $15. This it would make a fine apéritif. Imported by Hath- one is Pinot Grigio with bubbles, the usually carbonated wine is soft and low in alcohol, with a away Trading Company. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. muted aromas of the variety perked up to show sweet-tart character that comes across as slightly grapefruit and fig notes. The wine is soft and full- confected. Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.C. Jansz NV Premium Cuvée Brut ish in body, with hints of fig coming through on 89 (Tasmania); $20. Toasty and citrusy, the palate. Imported by De Bortoli Wines USA this is a prototypical méthode Champenoise Inc. —J.C. NEW ZEALAND sparkler, blending Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier from the cool island of Tasmania, De Bortoli NV Emeri Sparkling Shi- PINOT NOIR off Australia’s southern coast. It’s medium in 85 raz (Australia); $13. A relatively light, weight, with a crisp lemony finish that invites a fresh style of sparkling Shiraz, with berries and Te Kairanga 2007 John Martin second sip. Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. hints of chocolate picking up just a touch of sweet 91 Reserve Pinot Noir (Martinbor- Editors’ Choice. —J.C. vanilla on the finish. Imported by De Bortoli ough); $40. Voluminous yet silky, this undeniably Wines USA Inc. —J.C. complex offering from Te Kairanga features hints of Jansz NV Premium Rosé Brut (Tas- smoky bacon, black tea and briary herbs surround- 89 mania); $22. This coppery-pink rosé Beelgara NV The Vines Brut Cuvée ing a core of black cherries and plums. The fine shows the same classy toast and citrus notes as 84 (South Eastern Australia); $8. This texture stands out on the long, slightly warm finish. Jansz’s Premium Cuvée, with just a hint of cherry medium-bodied bargain-priced sparkler is maybe Imported by Liquid Brands LLC. —J.C. and mushroom to differentiate it. It’s medium just a touch on the heavy side, but it should satisfy bodied, with a clean, refreshing finish. Good most party crowds. Hints of toast accent pineap- Te Kairanga 2007 Runholder Pinot value. Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. Edi- ple and tropical fruit notes, finishing soft and 90 Noir (Martinborough); $30. Martin- tors’ Choice. —J.C. short. Worth trying in Mimosas or Bellinis. borough’s trademark savoriness comes through in Imported by The Yancey Marketing Group. Best this wine as hints of soy and mushroom, layered Chocolate Box 2008 Strawberry Buy. —J.C. over cherry fruit and chocolaty oak. This 88 Chocolate Sparkling Shiraz medium-bodied Pinot Noir is a bit tight and crisp (Barossa Valley); $21. Sparkling Shiraz is an Chocolate Box 2010 White Choco- right now, but it should be fully open and ready acquired taste, but this is a good introduction to 84 late Moscato (Barossa Valley); for business by mid-2011 and drink well for the genre. Simply put, it’s a big, oaky Shiraz with $17. This wine is very pale in color, but the aro- another 5–6 years after that. Imported by Liquid bubbles, bursting with vanilla, blackberry, choco- mas are anything but understated, zooming out in Brands LLC. —J.C. late and cedar aromas and flavors. Enjoy it over full floral, orangy Muscat character. It’s soft and the next few years for its youthful exuberance. sweet, balanced a bit by citrusy acids on the fin- Craggy Range 2006 Te Muna Imported by Rocland Wine Imports. —J.C. ish. Imported by Rocland Wine Imports. —J.C. 89 Aroha Pinot Noir (Martinbor- ough); $70. Possibly just in a sullen phase, this Taltarni 2008 Taché (South Eastern De Bortoli NV Emeri Pink Moscato reserve bottling from Craggy’s home vineyard is 88 Australia); $25. A faint coppery-pink 84 (South Eastern Australia); $13. dominated for the moment by smoke and cedar rosé, Taltarni’s 2008 Taché is a blend of 58% Simple and fruity, this coppery-pink sparkler is on the nose, and while there is some cherry fruit Chardonnay, 37% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meu- semisweet but reasonably balanced and clean. apparent in the mouth, it doesn’t appear to be nier. It’s lean and crisp, with a zesty, citrusy feel to The peachy aromas and flavors make it a natural fully expressing itself. The impression is of a wine the modest toast and mushroom flavors. with fresh fruit. Imported by De Bortoli Wines that’s tightly coiled and may yet improve with Imported by Clos Du Val Wine/Goelet Wine USA Inc. —J.C. another year or two of aging. Imported by Estates. —J.C. Kobrand. —J.C. De Bortoli NV Emeri Moscato De Bortoli NV DB Family Selection 83 (South Eastern Australia); $13. Brancott 2007 Reserve Pinot Noir 86 Sparkling Brut (South Eastern Rather restrained for a Muscat-based wine, with 88 (Marlborough); $25. One of the more Australia); $10. Straightforward, fresh and cit- modest citrus notes dominating this soft, off-dry abundant New Zealand Pinot Noirs in the U.S., rusy, this is a 100% Chardonnay sparkler that sparkler. Simple, but clean and well made. Brancott’s 2007 Reserve boasts plenty of earthy, proves quality and price are not always perfectly Imported by De Bortoli Wines USA Inc. —J.C. savory, sous-bois aromas and a bright cherry-cran- linked, making it a great value. It is a little soft berry core of flavor surrounded by foresty, fungal and plush in style, but shows some leesy hints and De Bortoli NV Emeri Sparkling notes finishing crisp and long. Drink now–2013. plenty of tangerine fruit on the moderately long 83 Sauvignon Blanc (South Eastern Imported by Pernod Ricard. —J.C. finish. Imported by De Bortoli Wines USA Inc. Australia); $13. The bubbles really intensify the Best Buy. —J.C. varietal character of this sparkling Sauvignon Blanc, Churton 2007 Pinot Noir (Marlbor- supersizing its grassy, grapefruity aromas, while pas- 88 ough); $29. Starts off with slightly con- De Bortoli NV Emeri Sparkling sion fruit flavors come through on the palate. fected yet delicious aromas of cherries, almond 85 Pinot Grigio (Australia); $13. De Imported by De Bortoli Wines USA Inc. —J.C. paste and vanilla, but turns slightly more savory

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 on the palate, where it picks up some herbal Villa Maria 2009 Wairau Valley and enliven the long, mouthcoating finish. shadings. This is relatively light in body, with a 92 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- Imported by Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —J.C. crisp structure that suggests it may last longer borough); $30. A big and bold Sauvignon than most Marlborough Pinots; drink now–2017. Blanc, packed with flavors of mango, nectarine Wild Rock 2009 Elevation Sauvi- Imported by H2 Vino. —J.C. and fresh herbs that come together beautifully 89 gnon Blanc (Marlborough); $14. on the nose and palate. Long on the finish. Drink This is a food-friendly Sauvignon blended with Ra Nui 2007 Wairau Valley Pinot now through mid-2011. Imported by Ste. hints of Riesling (for acidity) and Viognier (for 88 Noir (Marlborough); $20. This some- Michelle Wine Estates. —J.C. fragrance). Citrus and grassy notes strike just the what broad, mouthcoating wine should prove right balance, and there’s a pleasant creaminess to attractive to consumers weaned on California Wairau River 2009 Sauvignon the wine’s texture. Drink it over the next six Pinot Noirs. Dark, earthy, mocha notes lead into a 91 Blanc (Marlborough); $15. The folks months. Imported by Kobrand. Best Buy. —J.C. round palate with flavors of cherry preserves and at Wairau River have picked up their game, turn- chocolate. Probably best over the next 1–2 years. ing out a slightly austere, minerally 2009 that bal- Grove Mill 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Imported by Liquid Assets Group. —J.C. ances those attributes with hints of nectarine, 88 (Marlborough); $15. Grove Mill’s melon and fig. It’s medium-bodied, with a long 2009 Sauvignon Blanc strikes a pleasant balance Martinborough Vineyard 2008 finish. Imported by Terlato Wines International. between zesty citrus and ripe stone fruit. It’s 87 Pinot Noir (Martinborough); $50. Best Buy. —J.C. medium-bodied and plump in the mouth, with a Subtle and savory, with modest beet, strawberry crisp, clean finish that invites another sip. Ata Rangi 2009 Sauvignon Blanc and cherry aromas and flavors, this is a relatively Imported by Palm Bay International. —J.C. (Martinborough); $18. lightweight offering from Martinborough, with a 90 Ata Rangi isn’t known for its Sauvignon Blanc—the Pinot Mount Fishtail 2009 Sauvignon delicate structure and a juicy, fresh finish. Tasted Noir is what everyone clamors for—but perhaps Blanc (Marlborough); $15. A step twice, with consistent results. Imported by The 88 it should be. This is an excellent effort, balancing up in quality from the 2008—not surprising Sorting Table. —J.C. pineapple and citrus fruit with a hint of grassi- given the relative strength of the vintage. A flinty Lawson’s Dry Hills 2007 Pinot Noir ness. Despite being well over a year old, it note accents nectarine and grapefruit flavors in remains fresh, lively and crisp, with a long, this light- to medium-bodied offering, lingering (Marlborough); $24. A lightweight, 86 mouthwatering finish. Imported by Epic Wines. nicely on the finish. Imported by Southern Starz, silky Pinot Noir for early consumption, Lawson’s Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Inc. —J.C. 2007 features pretty red fruit shadings and deli- cately herbal notes, elegantly intertwined. The Forefathers 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Frenzy 2009 Sauvignon Blanc tannins are gentle, while the cherry fruit picks up (Marlborough); $19. This starts off (Marlborough); $10. This value-priced hints of chocolate and coffee on the finish. 90 87 herbal and green, with hints of nettles, but those offering starts off with slightly subdued notes of Imported by The Country Vintner. —J.C. elements settle down, ending up as a welcome, passion fruit, but gains a bit of intensity on the complex accent to the ripe nectarine fruit. Drink palate. It’s a simple, tropically fruity Sauvignon Spy Valley 2007 Envoy Pinot Noir up over the next few months. Imported by Gold- Blanc with a soft, easygoing finish. Imported by (Marlborough); $55. 86 Spy Valley’s 2007 schmidt Vineyards. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Best Buy. —J.C. Envoy Pinot Noir is an attractive wine, featuring an exterior of brown sugar, dry leaves and coffee Saveé Sea 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Grey’s Peak 2009 Sauvignon Blanc and a fruit-filled cherry center. The only concern is 90 (Marlborough); $15. This wine does a 87 (Waipara); $17. Waipara isn’t usually the slightly drying finish and some slightly coarse, nice job balancing its tropical fruit aromas and considered Sauvignon Blanc country, but this is a rustic tannins. If those resolve gracefully, this rat- flavors with leafy, green notes. Ripe nectarine and creditable effort, boasting ample melon and fig fla- ing may look stingy in 3 years’ time. Imported by grapefruit lie at the core, while herbal flourishes vors and a shot of grassiness on the otherwise soft Broadbent Selections, Inc. —J.C. garnish the nose and finish. Imported by RO finish. Imported by The Country Vintner. —J.C. Imports LLC. Best Buy. —J.C. Nick Goldschmidt 2009 Boulder SAUVIGNON BLANC Nautilus 2009 Sauvignon Blanc 87 Bank Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- 89 (Marlborough); $17. On the ough); $15. Restrained, with a slightly herbal Villa Maria 2009 Taylors Pass Vine- restrained side, with flinty aromas giving way to edge to the mineral notes of wet stones. This is 92 yard Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- notes of grapefruit, melon and fig on the palate. medium in weight and rather creamy in texture, ough); $25. This terrific Sauvignon Blanc is Finishes with a touch of leafiness. Imported by giving it a food-friendly vibe. Drink up. Imported marked by slightly pungent notes of green tomato Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. by Goldschmidt Vineyards. —J.C. or crushed tomato leaf, seamlessly married to smooth, ripe, tropical fruit. It’s a bit creamy in Tablelands 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Sileni 2010 Cellar Selection Sauvi- texture, almost lush, with a long, mouthcoating 89 (Martinborough); $15. A very good 87 gnon Blanc (Marlborough); $15. finish. Imported by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. effort, with attractive nectarine and melon fruit This medium-bodied, slightly creamy-textured Editors’ Choice. —J.C. underscored by grapefruit notes that brighten Sauvignon Blanc showcases gooseberry and pink

WineMag.com | 37 BUYING I GUIDE grapefruit flavors, with an appealing herbal note on Silver Beach 2009 Sauvignon the finish. Imported by Indigo Wine Group. —J.C. 85 Blanc (Marlborough); $11. Starts off RED BORDEAUX slightly flinty on the nose, then delivers restrained The Crossings 2009 Sauvignon grapefruit flavors on the palate, tinged with green ST.-ÉMILION Blanc (Awatere Valley); $15. 87 The peas. Medium-bodied, with a short finish; drink it Crossings continues to be a reliable source of Château Grand Corbin 2006 over the next couple of months. Imported by Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc at a reasonable St.-Émilion; $35. Dominated by tan- Prestige Wine Group. —J.C. 92 price. The 2009 seems almost sweet in its intensity nin, this is a dark-hued, perfumed wine, with of ripe nectarine fruit, but there’s enough grape- minerality and dry fruit dominant. The fruit is Zeal 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- fruit for balance and just a trace of herb on the still behind in its weight, needing several years to finish. Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —J.C. 85 borough); $10. Leafy and herbal, with develop, the juicy aftertaste giving a hint of pleas- green tomato and pineapple flavors that mesh ure to come. Imported by Château Grand Martinborough Vineyard 2009 surprisingly well. It’s medium-bodied, with a Corbin. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 86 Russian Jack Sauvignon Blanc slight tang on the finish. Imported by Prestige (Martinborough); $16. Fresh and vibrant, Wine Group. Best Buy. —J.C. Château Corbin 2006 St.-Émilion; with hints of herbs and flowers alongside figs 91 $35. A powerful, solid wine, its dark and citrus fruits. This is light in body but not light Glazebrook 2009 Regional Reserve fruits fitting well with the wood, the firm tannins on flavor, although it does finish a bit short. 84 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough); and black plum flavors. This is made for aging, as Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.C. $15. Light and herbal, marked by restrained, mel- it is just starting to show its depth. Imported by Château Corbin. Cellar Selection. —R.V. ony fruit and leafy notes that lack overall intensity Smythe & Renfield 2010 Sauvi- and complexity. Drink now. Imported by Frederick gnon Blanc (Marlborough); $13. Château Fonplégade 2007 86 Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —J.C. This Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is very easy to 91 St.-Émilion; $80. Dark in color, with drink, if slightly lacking distinctiveness. Melon an initial note of extraction, and with weighty fruit Kato 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- and fig flavors finish on a slightly grassy note, under the toasty surface. The wine is still coming while the texture is plump and soft. Imported by 84 borough); $13. Disappointing after together, needing 5–6 years to turn into the full- Prestige Wine Group. —J.C. the success of last year’s version, Kato’s 2009 is a bodied ripe-fruited wine that it potentially is. lightweight Sauvignon Blanc with herbal, bell- Imported by Adams French Vineyards. —R.V. Waimea 2009 Sauvignon Blanc peppery component. There’s a tart stridency on 86 (Nelson); $17. Very leafy and herbal— the finish that will serve it well with some dishes, Château de Ferrand 2005 St.-Émil- think crushed tomato leaf—but there’s an adequate less so with others. Imported by Clos Du Val 90 ion; $40. Big and firm, the tannins dark complement of tropical fruit to keep things moving Wine/Goelet Wine Estates. —J.C. and dominant, this is a wine in transition from along. Would work just right with parsley-laden fruity to mature. The structure, spice, dried fruits mussels. Imported by Via Pacifica Imports. —J.C. Martinborough Vineyard 2009 and chocolate is emerging at the moment. Give it 2–3 years for its impressive character to open. Sauvignon Blanc (Martinbor- Konrad 2009 Sauvignon Blanc 84 Imported by Total Wine & More. —R.V. ough); $20. This medium-bodied Sauvignon 85 (Marlborough); $18. This medium- bodied Sauvignon Blanc smells like fruit cocktail, Blanc features some nice lime and grapefruit fla- Château Fonguillon 2005 Mon- and the flavors that follow are pleasantly reminis- vors, but it turns tart, chalky and almost metallic 90 tagne-St.-Émilion; $NA. A smooth cent of guava, but slightly one-dimensional. Fin- on the finish. It’s certainly zesty, but it clangs off and velvet-textured wine, where the tannins are a ishes soft. Imported by Southern Starz, Inc. —J.C. the rim instead of swooshing straight on through. cushion for the ripe plum juice fruit. Herbs and Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.C. wood spice contribute to this rich and full-bodied Overstone 2010 Sauvignon Blanc wine. Imported by Victoire Imports. —R.V. 85 (Marlborough); $11. A soft, medium- Woollaston 2009 Sauvignon Blanc bodied Sauvignon Blanc, the 2010 Overstone fea- 84 (Nelson); $15. Light in body and pun- Château Roylland 2007 St.-Émil- tures ripe fruit flavors that skirt melon and fig gent almost to the point of sweatiness, with leafy, 90 ion; $33. A smooth-textured wine that before heading into guava, with just enough citrus shows some ripe Merlot, firm fruit tannins and herbal flavors that soften on the finish. Imported to help balance the ledger. Imported by Prestige soft spice. There is an edge of wood, but the fruit by San Francisco Wine Exchange. —J.C. Wine Group. —J.C. is bright enough to cope. It should develop well into a rich wine. Imported by Adams French Mussel Bay 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Satellite 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Vineyards. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. (Marlborough); $10. 85 (Marlborough); $15. From the folks 83 Strongly herbal at Spy Valley, this is a sweaty, pungent rendition and pungent to the point of sweatiness, with Château Grand Corbin Manuel of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, laden with just a bit of citrusy fruit creeping in on the other- 89 2004 St.-Émilion; $NA. Still showing hints of tomato leaf and herbs. Drink up. wise lightweight finish. Imported by Tri-Vin its tannins, this wine is developing well. It is rela- Imported by Broadbent Selections, Inc. —J.C. Imports. —J.C. tively light in texture, the sweet berry fruits bal-

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 anced with a layer of acidity. Imported by gant demeanor. The tannins are dry, while the and the wood. Firm, still developing; keep for 2 Château Grand Corbin Manuel. —R.V. sweet fruit is developing well. Balanced, just wait- years. —R.V. ing a year or so to show its best. Imported by Château de Candale 2007 St.-Émil- Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Chateau Suau 2006 Premieres 88 ion; $45. A high toast wine, the fruit 87 Côtes de Bordeaux; $15. While and fresh acidity submerged beneath the wood. Château de la Grave 2006 Carac- there is a mineral austerity to this wine, it has the At the present, it is hard to enjoy, but in 2–3 years 89 tère (Côtes de Bourg); $20. A solid, potential for richness. It offers dark berries and the fruit will kick in. It would be good if the pro- foursquare wine, flaunting its tannins but not for- sweet plums under the dense layer of tannins. ducer had been less enthusiastic about the wood. getting the rich weight of fruit underneath. Mint Give it 2–3 years at least. Imported by Kysela Imported by Adams French Vineyards. —R.V. flavors go with the chocolate and dark plums Père et Fils. —R.V. Imported by Bourgeois Family Selections. —R.V. Château la Croix Melin 2008 St.- Château Cabredon 2004 Premieres 88 Émilion; $22. Soft and full in the Château La Rame 2006 La Charmille 86 Côtes de Bordeaux; $NA. There is mouth, with spice adding an extra dimension to 89 (Premieres Côtes de Bordeaux); good density here. The wine has spice and dark the broad berry fruits. The wine is ready to drink, $24. Ripe, smooth, rich fruits, juicy strawberry fla- tannins, the wood integrated with the maturing its acidity melding well into the richness. The vor and fresh acidity. The texture is solid and dense, black fruits. The tannins are still firm, so decant final taste is solid and dense. Imported by Total with an obvious potential for aging. Imported by before drinking. —R.V. Wine & More. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Rosenthal Wine Merchants. —R.V. Château de Bel-Air 2007 Lalande Château Fonplégade 2007 Fleur de Château Cabredon 2007 Tradition de Pomerol; $30. A wine that suffers Fonplégade (St.-Émilion); $45. 86 87 The (Premieres Côtes de Bordeaux); from high toast and not enough fruit weight. In second wine of Château Fonplégade is fresh and 88 $NA. Eighteen months in wood have dried out time, it should settle down, but it is always going bright with good fruits, berry flavors and some rich- the fruit, and now the wine needs time to come to be a wine that is on the lean side. Imported by ness. It has good poise; ready to drink in 2–3 years. together. The black plum weight is here, with a Adams French Vineyards. —R.V. Imported by Adams French Vineyards. —R.V. rich potential to bring out the sweet, juicy flavors. —R.V. Château du Vallier 2008 Premieres Château Jacques Noir 2006 St.- Côtes de Bordeaux; $25. A full and Émilion; $30. A fresh, lightweight wine 86 86 Château la Roselière 2006 Pre- ripe texture, wood aging giving good definition. with good black berry fruits, a juicy character and mieres Côtes de Blaye; $NA. Finely The wine has a tannic element, but this is well balancing spice. The tannins are certainly dry, but 88 balanced wine with all the right elements in place. balanced with the juicy black currant fruit and the fruit is well in balance. Imported by Planet It has stalky berry fruit, spice, a good amount of the lightly refreshing acidity. Imported by North Wine. —R.V. acidity. All this is over a solid layer of fine tannins, American Beverage Group. —R.V. Château Monte Christo 2004 while the wine finishes with a great burst of juici- Cuvée Edmond Dantes (St.-Émil- ness. Imported by Victoire Imports. —R.V. Château la Fleur 2008 Montagne- 86 St.-Émilion; $17. ion); $NA. A soft, spicy wine, with a slight farm- 84 Juicy wine, with very Château Plaisance 2006 Mon- yard character alongside light acidity. dominant acidity. The flavors are of bright red tagne-St.-Émilion; $25. Mushrooms, smokiness and sweet vegetables are 88 A richly tex- plums and berries, but the wine lacks depth, developing as the wine matures. Drink now. tured wine, showing some attractive fresh fruits skimming the surface of taste. Imported by Total Imported by Victoire Imports. —R.V. and soft berries mingling with a layer of firmer Wine & More. —R.V. tannins. The wine has weight, an attractive edge of spice and a final sweet juicy character. Château Tour Canon 2005 Canon- OTHER RIGHT BANK Imported by Planet Wine. —R.V. 84 Fronsac; $22. Rich, but edging toward rustic, with its mature leather and berry fruits, Château l’Enclos 2007 Pomerol; Château Roquevieille 2005 Red topped by dry tannins. It is firm and smoky, in a 90 $60. Big, broad and ripe, with an opu- 88 (Côtes de Castillon); $19. Showing very old style. Imported by Saranty Imports. —R.V. lent texture, flavors of black plums. along with some signs of mushroom-flavored maturity, this is soft tannins and a smooth surface. The wine is still a finely structured wine. The fruit has turned Château Cabredon 2007 Premieres developing well, offering rich fruit that will into a more vegetal character with beetroot and 83 Côtes de Bordeaux; $NA. Tight and deepen in a couple of years. Imported by Adams firm tannins, spice and final acidity. Imported by lean, austere in character, the fruit showing defi- French Vineyards. —R.V. Total Wine & More. —R.V. nite green characters. —R.V.

Château Suau 2005 Cuvée Pres- Château Cabredon 2008 Premieres Château Cabredon 2003 Tradition 90 tige (Premieres Côtes de Bor- 87 Côtes de Bordeaux; $NA. Good den- 82 (Premieres Côtes de Bordeaux); deaux); $27. A dense and complex wine, sity for a young wine. There is weight here, dry $NA. This is all tannin, bitter chocolate and a packed with ripe fruit while preserving an ele- tannins that integrate well with the berry fruits dense texture. It seems to be drying out as the

WineMag.com | 39 BUYING I GUIDE fruit goes, while there are few signs of softening. Château des Combes 2008 Bor- character and smokiness. This is always going to It suffers from the heat of 2003. —R.V. 87 deaux; $13. This is a wine with good, be lean and tight, but will work with rich food. dense and red fruit, a touch of wood and a firm Imported by Victoire Imports. —R.V. Château des Demoiselles 2007 structure. There is a sense of elegance backed up Côtes de Castillon; $19. An over- by some weight. The aftertaste brings in spice 82 Château de Terrefort-Quancard oaked wine. The lean 2007 fruit cannot cope with and balancing acidity. Imported by Planet Wine. the wood, resulting in a wine that is one-dimen- Best Buy. —R.V. 84 2007 Bordeaux Supérieur; $18. sional. Imported by Laville Imports. —R.V. Soft and open fruit, flavors of black currants, Château Pey la Tour 2007 Bor- rhubarb and fresh acidity. The tannins are light, Château Cabredon 2004 Tradition deaux Supérieur; $18. Soft, ripe and 87 the wine attractively balanced with a juicy after- (Premieres Côtes de Bordeaux); juicy, this is an attractive wine, with red berry fla- 81 taste. Imported by Saranty Imports. —R.V. $NA. The wine shows tannins and bitter choco- vors and a light structure. Not for the long term. late, then only dilute fruit. It is still unbalanced Drink now for its fruity character. Imported by and likely to remain so. —R.V. Dourthe USA. —R.V. Château de Virecourt 2008 Bor- 84 deaux; $10. Soft, stalky black berry Château Roc Meynard 2008 Bor- fruits, dry with a firm edge of tannins. The spice deaux Supérieur; $14. The dry tan- OTHER RED BORDEAUX 87 shows through along with final acidity. Imported nins are firmly in charge in this young wine, its by Baystate Wine Co. —R.V. Château Marquis de Terme 2005 fruit fresh rather than rich. The flavors are red 93 Margaux; $NA. Developing well, this plum juice, acidity and a dry core that needs rich and intense wine has all the pleasures of another year to soften. Imported by Bourgeois Château Grand Jean 2008 Réserve 2005. The tannins are a firm hint along with the Family Selections. —R.V. 84 (Bordeaux Supérieur); $NA. On the sweet, smoky berry fruits and ripe acidity. It is lean side, the acidity heightened by vivid berry structured, dense and elegant, a great success for Château Soussac 2006 Liberty du fruits. The texture is light, with tannins that have this château. Imported by House of Fine Wines. Château Soussac (Bordeaux 87 a bite to them. Imported by North American Cellar Selection. —R.V. Supérieur); $17. With some good, ripe fruit and a core of dry tannins, this wine benefits from Beverage Group. —R.V. Château Barateau 2005 Haut- wood aging and rich berry flavors. It is solid and 89 Médoc; $NA. Dark and firm, with dry chunky, with a fine edge of black currant acidity. Château Grand Rolland 2008 tannins strongly alongside the pure black currant It could well age for 2–3 years, but can be drunk 84 Grande Cuvée (Bordeaux); $NA. fruits. A solid, linear wine, its acidity firmly in now. Imported by USA Wine West. —R.V. There is considerable freshness here, along with place. Imported by Victoire Imports. —R.V. Yvon Mau 2006 Château Ducla black currant, bright berries and a smoky edge. It Château Haut-Peyrous 2008 87 (Bordeaux Supérieur); $13. Ripe does have a strong tannic element that gives an aus- 89 Retour des Palombières (Graves); and fruity, touched by mint with some good bal- tere structure. Imported by AIKO INC. —R.V. $28. A powerful, dense and still youthful wine. It ancing tannins and acidity. A fine, firm and also balances a fresh blackberry fruit character with juicy wine, with a warm texture. Imported by Château Soussac 2007 Bordeaux smoky tannins and delicious, bright and juicy Freixenet USA. —R.V. 84 Supérieur; $17. A soft, fruity wine lack- acidity. Imported by Martin Scott Wines. —R.V. Château Bellevue 2008 Bordeaux; ing great depth, but with attractive red berry fruits Château Tour Coutelin 2007 Saint- 85 $11. A lean, too tannic wine that shows and light tannins. It is bright, juicy and ready to 89 Estèphe; $NA. With some weight black currant acidity, almost austere in its dry drink. Imported by USA Wine West. —R.V. behind the firm tannins, this is beginning to character. There is good density as well, that develop into a dense and powerful wine. It has promises a year or two of aging before opening Château Roc Grand Antoine 2008 black plum and berry fruits and a layer of fresher up. Imported by Total Wine & More. —R.V. 83 Bordeaux; $NA. Get through the rus- strawberry juice. Throughout there are dry tan- ticity of this wine, and there is some fresh berry nins to hold the structure together. Imported by Château Tour Saint-Joseph 2007 Victoire Imports. —R.V. 85 Haut-Médoc; $25. On the austere fruit and acidity. But the farmyard edge is off- side, the tannins dry and firm. The fruit flavors putting. Imported by Victoire Imports. —R.V. Château Beauregard-Ducourt 2008 echo the severe character, with red currant fla- 88 Bordeaux; $13. With good density and vors and a slight vegetal edge. Imported by Château Larroque 2006 Bordeaux; some richness, here is a wine that offers fruit as Saranty Imports. —R.V. 82 $15. Indulgent wood and high toast fla- well as structure. The spice, black fruits and dry vors swamp the fruit here. The result is a wine tannins hang well together, the acidity showing Château Tourteran 2007 Haut- through to underline the ripe fruit. Imported by 85 Médoc; $NA. Austerely tannic, show- that is lean, hard-edged and without the weight to Baystate Wine Co. Best Buy. —R.V. ing black currant crispness, a green herbal develop. Imported by Baystate Wine Co. —R.V.

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 tropical fruit-influenced wine that is round in WHITE LOIRE character and full of wonderfully opulent fruit. The final acidity stays within the ripe fruit charac- BORDEAUX WHITE WINES ter. Imported by Martine’s Wines. —R.V. DRY WINES POUILLY-FUMÉ Domaine Laporte 2008 Le Rochoy 91 (Sancerre); $33. The flint of the Château Haut-Brion 2007 Pessac- Château de Tracy 2008 Haute Den- Rochoy vineyard gives off great heat, turning this sité (Pouilly-Fumé); $110. With a into a ripe and complex wine. It is steely, with a Léognan; $NA. The palate opens 93 98 density of nearly 7,000 vines per acre, and conse- strong mineral character, finishing with a won- slowly, offering an initial citrus character, fol- quent low yields, it is not surprising this is a con- derful, lifting acidity. Imported by Martine’s lowed by wood and then, finally, wonderfully rich, centrated, intense wine. It has quintessential Wines. —R.V. but taut fruit. There is still a toast character here, herbaceous flavors, rounded out with a creamed with apricots and pear on top of the citrus, but it apple element and a tight, steely texture. Age for Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy 2008 Les is still only just developing. In 10–15 years, it will 3–4 years. Imported by Louis Latour Inc. Cellar 91 Anges Lots (Sancerre); $NA. A pow- be a magnificent wine. Imported by Château Selection. —R.V. erful wine, tropical in its fruit flavors with mango and guava and layered with a mineral texture. Haut-Brion. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Domaine Laporte 2008 La Vigne This is rich and concentrated, with acidity that de Beaussopet (Pouilly-Fumé); gives a great final bite. Imported by Weygandt- Château Haut-Peyrous 2008 Pêche 93 $40. A full-bodied wine, just lightly wooded in Metzler. —R.V. au Carrelet (Graves); $33. 90 A big, character. Its acidity is beautifully integrated with fruity bold wine, packed with the ripest fruit, con- rich lees flavors, grapefruit and bright apple. It is Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy 2008 Les centrated and complex, with room for tight acid- a complex wine, deliciously perfumed and likely 90 Coûtes (Sancerre); $NA. A taut and ity. It has citrus and green plum crispness, and to age well over 3–4 years. Imported by Martine’s mineral wine, with intense acidity followed by needs time to fully integrate with the wood and Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. peach flavors. The wine successfully manages to ripe yellow fruits. Imported by Martin Scott combine a crisp edge and rich fruit, with delicious Château de Tracy 2008 101 Rangs results. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. Wines. —R.V. 91 (Pouilly-Fumé); $140. From a parcel at the highest point of the Tracy vineyard, this is a Vincent Pinard 2008 Cuvée Florès Yvon Mau 2006 Château Ducla spectacular, densely mineral wine, taking its fla- (Sancerre); $NA. With its aromas of Experience XIV (Bordeaux Blanc); 90 87 vor from the soil. It is spicy, ripe and very full, tropical fruits, this is a rich wine. There is also a $20. Pear, peach and tropical fruits all roll with light tropical fruits as well as a taut and tight fine streak of minerality, spiked with lemon together in this wine, with just a touch of toasty texture. Age for 2–3 years. Imported by Louis juice and textured with green plum skins. character. The wine is rounded and full, but still Latour Inc. —R.V. It is fresh, full and very dry. Imported by fresh. Imported by Freixenet USA. —R.V. Simonin N Cellars. —R.V. Château de Tracy 2008 Pouilly- 90 Fumé; $40. Wonderful herbaceous aro- Michel Picard 2008 Sancerre; $NA. SWEET WINES mas shout Sauvignon Blanc. There is also a 81 The acidity is the problem here. It is out tropical element in the ripe fruit of this fine, of balance with what seems to be a layer of sweet- Château La Rame 2005 Saint- cleanly fresh wine. It has good density, a layer of ness that leaves a huge hole in the middle. Screw minerality and a shot of bright final acidity. cap. Imported by Brown-Forman Corp. —R.V. Croix-du-Mont; $35. Saint-Croix-du- 90 Imported by Louis Latour Inc. —R.V. Mont is on the slopes across the Garonne river from Sauternes. In years like 2005, it can pro- Domaine Laporte 2008 Les MONTLOUIS-SUR-LOIRE duce some fine sweet botrytis wines. This has 89 Duchesses (Pouilly-Fumé); $32. A honey, a bite of botrytis and a great lemon edge. rich wine with some tropical fruit character fixed François Chidaine 2006 Tuffeaux Worth aging, but ready to drink now. Imported by firmly in a very mineral context. Very firm and 93 (Montlouis-sur-Loire); $NA. A Rosenthal Wine Merchants. —R.V. rich, there is a grapefruit character to the texture. medium-sweet wine that is sweet with honey and A fresh finish rounds it off. Imported by Mar- lemon flavor, and contains delicious ripe pear Château Suau 2005 Cadillac; $31. tine’s Wines. —R.V. juice freshness. The acidity focuses the fruit, giv- ing flavors of almonds as well as spice. Imported Sweet red peach flavors combine with 87 by Louis Dressner Selections. —R.V. honey in this soft, accessible wine. It has a layer SANCERRE of botrytis and just a hint of dryness. Drink now Domaine les Loges de la Folie and over the next few years. Imported by Kysela Domaine Laporte 2008 La 89 2005 Le Chemin des Loges Demi- Père et Fils. —R.V. 92 Comtesse (Sancerre); $44. A floral, Sec (Montlouis-sur-Loire); $32. A wine that

WineMag.com | 41 BUYING I GUIDE emphasizes the honeyed aspects of Chenin Blanc, Domaine Sainte Léocadie 2007 without becoming overly sweet. It hits a good LANGUEDOC 87 Fernand Averoux (Minervois); middle balance, giving sweet white fruits, plenty $30. A blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache, of acidity and a finishing dry structure. Age this MINERVOIS this wine offers both beefy and herbal notes for 5 years or drink now. Imported by Sussex among the more standard black raspberry and Domaine Sainte Léocadie 2007 Les Wine Merchants. —R.V. plum fruit flavors. Medium-full on the palate with Clauses (Minervois); $25. A stunning 91 a hint of sanguine character, this comes off a bit Domaine les Loges de la Folie Minervois red composed of 50% Syrah, 30% brighter and more balanced than one might 2005 Le Chemin des Loges Sec Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre and 10% Carignan. 87 anticipated from the bouquet. Imported by Bob (Montlouis-sur-Loire); $30. Floral and min- Garrigue definitely takes center stage on the nose Bofman Selections. —L.B. eral, this wine has white currant flavors, herbs via thyme and lavender, with a strong black cherry and green vegetables. It’s full of flavor, ripe and and raspberry backbone. A lush, satiny texture with Château Cabezac 2009 Alice Blanc concentrated, with great waves of fruit. The after- dusty tannins and a rich mocha-infused finish. (Minervois); $10. Medium intense taste is dry, but there’s also a hint of honey. Imported by Bob Bofman Selections. —L.B. 86 Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants. —R.V. notes of sweet grass, fresh red apple slices, green Château Cabezac 2005 Grande melon and lime citrus on the nose and mouth. 89 Cuvée Belvèze (Minervois); $28. A Medium weight with moderate, supporting acid- VOUVRAY higher-tier (and thus a bit more expensive) offer- ity and a clean finish. Drink now. Imported by ing from Cabezac, this is a lush and attractive Château Cabezac. Best Buy. —L.B. Michel Picard 2008 Vouvray; $NA. wine with a crushed velvet texture and a lingering 82 Recognizably Chenin Blanc, this just finish. Seductively aromatic with notes of choco- Château Comte Devaugelas 2007 manages to give an attractive almond scent allied late, licorice and raspberry sauce leading to fla- 85 (Minervois); $9. Dusty and nuanced to sweetness and acidity. . Imported by vors of sweet red berry preserves laced with with soft aromas of cocoa, dried raspberry and Brown-Forman Corp. —R.V. cocoa in the mouth. So decadent and creamy, its cherry, reminiscent of a chocolate cherry latte an easy choice to drink now. Imported by from Starbucks. Light weight in the mouth with LOIRE Château Cabezac. —L.B. approachable tannins and a clean, dry finish. Drink now. Imported by Tri-Vin Imports. Best Château Cabezac 2006 Le Petit RED WINES Buy. —L.B. 89 Arthur (Minervois); $10. Vibrant and BOURGUEIL lively red fruit aromas blend with fragrant woody spice in the bouquet. The cherry and berry flavors COTEAUX DU Château de Minière 2008 Vieilles transition to the palate, where somewhat gripping tannins coupled with notes of fudgy brownie and LANGUEDOC 90 Vignes (Bourgueil); $27. An impres- sively structured wine, full of concentrated fruit black pepper add depth to the finish. Imported by and tannins. It shows ripe plums, layered with Château Cabezac. Best Buy. —L.B. Le Mas de l’Ecriture 2005 Emotion chocolate, spice and a hint of pepper, finished Occitane (Coteaux du Languedoc); Château Cabezac 2007 La Tradi- 88 with wood. It needs aging 3–4 years. Imported $20. Enjoyable and approachable now with tion (Minervois); $8. For the price by Robert Kacher Imports. —R.V. 89 straightforward red cherry, berry and game notes and quality, you just can’t go wrong with this one. spiced up by glimmers of mocha and nutmeg. Château de Minière 2008 Cheva- Medium intense with strong suggestions of kirsch Linear in the mouth with soft tannins and a clean lier de Minière (Bourgueil); $17. A and blackberry liqueur lifted by accents of rose- 89 finish. Imported by Le Mas de l’Ecriture. —L.B. smooth and ripe wine, attractive cherry and sweet mary, espresso grinds and licorice. Round and plum flavors along with a ripe tannic element. It satisfying in the mouth with more dark fruit fla- is a rich wine, showing the concentration of 2008 vors and a peppery finish. Imported by Château CORBIÈRES in the Loire. Age for 2–3 years. Imported by Cabezac. Best Buy. —L.B. Robert Kacher Imports. —R.V. Château Cabezac 2007 La Gar- Les Deux Rives 2009 Blanc (Cor- bières); $13. Château de Minière 2008 Bour- 87 rigue (Minervois); $7. A blend of 86 A delicate but complex 87 gueil; $20. Dry tannins dominate this Syrah and Carignan, this wine definitely has an nose of peony, bergamot, Anjou pear and hard rough-edged wine. There are plenty of bitter unmistakable Languedoc herbaceousness to it melon transition to a somewhat surprisingly lean cherry and cocoa flavors, while the acidity gives amid the bright cherry and red plum flavors. mouth flooded with citrus flavors. The nuances of an attractive freshness. Those tannins need a year Tightly structured with somewhat bracing acidity the bouquet are mostly missing on the palate, but to settle down. Imported by Robert Kacher and a peppery finish. Drink now. Imported by this remains a clean and refreshing white. Imports. —R.V. Château Cabezac. Best Buy. —L.B. Imported by Pasternak Wine Imports. —L.B.

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 packed with richness for the future. Keep 3–4 VIN DE PAYS SOUTHWEST years. Imported by North American Beverage Group. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Château Cabezac 2007 Cariñu FRANCE 89 Carignan (Vin de Pays du Val de Jean-Luc Baldès 2008 Clos Trigue- Cesse); $14. This 100% Carignan is a great CAHORS 90 dina Petit Clos (Cahors); $17. Big expression of what the grape can do all by itself and dark, its fruit dominated by bone-dry tannins, without any blending buddies. Red cherry and Château du Cèdre 2007 Le Cèdre this is anything but petit (little). The density of plum mingle with garrigue herbs and a touch of 94 (Cahors); $60. High toast aromas are the texture is balanced on a structure of the dark vanilla on the nose. Soft tannins and vibrant acid- filled out on the palate with rich, concentrated fruit fruits, black plums and chocolate, with a fresh ity lay out the approachable structure, with a lin- and bitter chocolate flavors. This powerful, impres- line of acidity holding it all in place. Imported by gering finish accented by sweet spice. Imported sive wine is spicy and densely packed. At this stage, Eagle Eye Imports. —R.V. by Château Cabezac. Best Buy. —L.B. it feels hard edged, but that will fill out in the next 3–4 years as the wine broadens out. Imported by Château de Cénac 2007 Cuvée Domaines Paul Mas 2009 Claude- Martine’s Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 89 Prestige (Cahors); $22. A very min- 87 Val Blanc (Vin de Pays d’Oc); $9. eral wine, with a lean and flinty character, tight For a sort of kitchen sink blend composed of Château du Cèdre 2007 Le GC tannins and suppressed fruit. The result is the (Cahors); $130. Grenache Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Mauzac, Sauvi- 93 Inky black in color, this need for several years of aging to bring out some gnon Blanc, Vermentino and Chasan, this wine is is strong stuff. The wood aromas are overdone, but weight and fruit. The potential is here. Imported surprisingly pleasing and easy to drink with fla- on the palate, the wine is rich, allowing the tarry by North American Beverage Group. —R.V. black berry fruits and herbs to show through. vors of lively melon, stone fruit and accents of Designed for aging; keep for 4–5 years. Imported Château Haut-Monplaisir 2007 lime citrus. Versatile for food pairing, easy to by Martine’s Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Prestige (Cahors); $25. Almost black drink and a terrific value. Imported by Elite 89 in color, this is a solid, very chunky wine. Its black Brands. Best Buy. —L.B. Jean-Luc Baldès 2008 Clos Trigue- berry and bitter chocolate flavors push through dina Probus (Cahors); $40. Domaines Paul Mas 2009 93 There is an immense tannic structure, powered by a great power, yet balance here. The wine has firm, tough, stalky texture. It is very firm, edging on Domaine Lugel White (Vin de 85 rich fruits, with solid dark tannins to go with lay- austere. Imported by Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. Pays d’Oc); $10. There’s not a ton of intensity ers of fresh acidity and a dense texture. Obviously to the bouquet of this wine, but some serious for aging, this is an impressive statement of Mal- Château de Cénac 2007 Eulalie sniffing can coax out suggestions of red apple and bec. Imported by Eagle Eye Imports. —R.V. (Cahors); $44. A finely structured white florals. The mouth offers a bit more by way 88 wine, its tannin fitting well into the rich texture, of full, juicy cantaloupe and grapefruit supreme Château Haut-Monplaisir 2007 Pur with berry fruits, dark plums and bitter coffee flavors. Fresh and easy; drink now. Imported by 91 Plaisir (Cahors); $55. For lovers of adding an extra dimension. Imported by North Elite Brands. Best Buy. —L.B. dense, firmly tannic and rich Malbec, this is pure American Beverage Group. —R.V. pleasure indeed. It is a powerful wine, packed Cox 2007 Pinot Noir (Vin de Pays with dark, brooding fruits, leavened by a hint of Château du Cèdre 2008 Cèdre d’Oc); $12. 83 Soft, sweetly fruity wine, mint and smoky acidity. The wine shows power, 88 Héritage (Cahors); $17. Evocative with the lightest touch of tannin. It is brightly but doesn’t get carried away. Age for 4–5 years. Malbec perfumes, with mint and wild herbs min- acidic with a rustic edge. Fresh, ripe fruits are a Imported by Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. gling together, set the scene for this concentrated, good finishing touch. Screw cap. Imported by ripe, juicy wine. The black plum and berry fruits Global Quality Import. —R.V. Château de Cénac 2008 Eulalie are right up front, lifted by great acidity. 90 (Cahors); $40. Although there is an Imported by Martine’s Wines. —R.V. obvious wood element, it doesn’t intrude too PROVENCE much into the fine and concentrated fruit of this Jean-Luc Baldès 2008 Château de spicy, juicy wine, the top cuvée from Cénac. 88 Flore (Cahors); $15. With its ink pur- RED WINE There is an attractive smoky character alongside ple color, this is as young as can be, its wood and dry and dusty tannins, although the wine reveals a fruit not yet integrated. But the potential is good, Domaine du Grand Cros 2004 richer character as it opens up. Imported by with weight behind the spicy wood and the feel of 89 Jules Réserve (Côtes de Provence); North American Beverage Group. —R.V. solid tannic fruit coming up. Imported by Eagle $18. Aromatic, herbal wine, with evocative Eye Imports. —R.V. lavender, a core of dry tannins, fresh red plum Clos Troteligotte 2006 K Lys juice fruit and flavors of wild thyme. The six 90 (Cahors); $32. Deep colored, wood aged Jean-Luc Baldès 2008 Clos Trigue- years’ aging has given the wine just the right Malbec that gives powerful and dense tannins and 88 dina La Chapelle du Clos (Cahors); amount of maturity to drink now. Imported by concentrated black berry and plum flavors. The $17. By contrast with some of the other powerful The Barter House. —R.V. wine is deeply mineral, edging on austere, but still reds from Triguedina, this is a relatively soft, vel-

WineMag.com | 43 BUYING I GUIDE vet-textured wine. But don’t be deceived: Château du Port 2008 Tertre Château la Rayre 2008 Bergerac; beneath the smooth surface, there is a dark and 83 Perdigous Malbec-Merlot (Cahors); 83 $NA. Earthy, rustic aromas reveal a wine mineral wine, all solid fruits and rich black $NA. A lean wine, the tannins dominating the that is rough at the edges, tightened with acidity, berries. Imported by Eagle Eye Imports. —R.V. fruit. The wine is all bone and no flesh. Imported shot through with stalky fruit. —R.V. by North American Beverage Group. —R.V. Domaine du Grand Cros 2005 87 Château Nozières (Cahors); $14. BUZET This mineral-dominated Malbec is dry, packed with BERGERAC tannins as well as black currants and wild berries. It Vignerons de Buzet 2005 Château Château Bélingard 2007 Ortus de Gueyze (Buzet); $22. is on the austere side, finishing with intense acidity. 89 Apart from (Côtes de Bergerac); $18. From making its own branded wines, the go-ahead Imported by The Barter House. —R.V. 90 selected parcels of Château Bélingard, this is a Buzet cooperative sells a number of wines from Château du Cèdre 2008 Chatons great success for the cool 2007 vintage. There is privately-owned estates. This wine is firmly in the black berry richness to balance the severe tan- tradition of Bordeaux blends, with its dry tannins du Cèdre (Cahors); $15. Pure black 86 nins, while the element of freshness is well inte- and firm, licorice and bitter chocolate flavors. It berry juice, ripe and solid, this is a chunky, fresh grated into the final stalky acidity. Age for 3–4 would be worth aging for 2 more years. Imported wine. The wood edge is a major factor; there is a years. Imported by Total Wine & More. Editors’ by Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. final stalky, mineral element. Drink now. Choice. —R.V. Imported by Martine’s Wines. —R.V. Vignerons de Buzet 2005 Baron Château Tour des Gendres 2007 d’Ardeuil Vieilles Vignes (Buzet); Château de Cénac 2008 Gariottin 88 89 Moulin des Dames (Côtes de Berg- $17. The Buzet co-op’s top brand, this is big, 86 (Cahors); $20. This is soft, light and erac); $40. By softening the extract and reduc- powerful and rich. It is dominated by blackberry dominated by fresh berry fruits. The tannins give ing the use of wood, Luc de Conti has succeeded jelly and sweet plums, as well as firm tannins. The an attractive structure to this gentle wine. Drink in making a smooth, elegant wine in a difficult palate is weighty, solid, maybe missing freshness now. Imported by North American Beverage year. There is some weight, principally in the but certainly giving good intensity. Imported by Group. —R.V. black currant fruit, creating a wine that could age Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. for several years. Imported by Baron Francois Château du Port 2007 Cuvée Pres- Ltd. —R.V. Vignerons de Buzet 2007 Merlot 86 tige (Cahors); $22. The balance 85 Cabernet (Buzet); $12. Fresh, fruity between the firm tannins and ripe fruit works well Clos d’Yvigne 2007 Le Rouge et le juicy wine, deliciously light and ready to drink. here. The texture is dense, rough at the edges but 88 Noir (Bergerac); $17. Black fruit and Lovers of Beaujolais would also appreciate this with good layers of wood, acidity and dry tannins. taut structure are joined with black currant soft, flavorful, easy wine. Imported by Baron The aftertaste has welcome freshness Imported by acidity and a core of the driest tannins. The wine Francois Ltd. —R.V. North American Beverage Group. —R.V. has the cool 2007 feel to it, and is certainly ready to drink now. Imported by Demontoux Fine Château les Croisille 2007 Cuvée Wines. —R.V. JURANÇON Prestige (Cahors); $20. Some rich- 86 Clos d’Yvigne 2008 Princesse de Domaine Bellegarde 2007 Cuvée ness, a good depth of flavor with wood smoothing Cleves (Bergerac Sec); $17. A broad, Thibault (Jurançon); $20. From late out the rough edges of the lean tannins. The fruit 87 91 ripe wine, with peach and apricot flavors to go harvest grapes, this concentrated sweet wine bal- is full of juicy black currant energy, while the with a fine citrus tang. Full in the mouth, very ances great freshness with a smooth creamy tex- acidity dominates the aftertaste. Imported by fruity and attractively textured with green plum ture with flavors of orange zest, honey and spice. Demontoux Fine Wines. —R.V. skin juiciness. Imported by Demontoux Fine It is rich and concentrated, while the acidity Wines. —R.V. shoots through the aftertaste. Imported by Bour- Vinel 2008 Malbec (Vin de Pays du geois Family Selections. —R.V. 85 Lot); $12. Soft, young and fruity, with Château la Rayre 2007 Premier Vin juicy black berry fruit flavors and only light tan- 85 (Bergerac Sec); $NA. An aromatic, Château de Jurque 2008 Séduc- nins. Think barbecue. Imported by North Amer- perfumed wine, fat, full and soft. It lacks defini- 90 tion (Jurançon); $NA/500 ml. An ican Beverage Group. —R.V. tion, but the spicy perfumes give it an intriguing aromatic wine, its sweet texture pushed through character. —R.V. with ripe apricot jelly, a liquor-like botrytis texture Château les Croisille 2007 Tradition and intense, perfumed acidity throughout. There 84 (Cahors); $16. A lean, austere wine, Clos d’Yvigne 2008 Bel-Ami Rosé is a long, lingering ripe aftertaste. —R.V. maybe the result of the 2007 vintage. Stalky tannins 84 (Bergerac); $17. Soft, ripe Merlot push through the acidity and the tense black cur- results in a wild strawberry-flavored wine. It is Domaine Bellegarde 2008 La rant fruit. Drink now for the fresh, juicy aftertaste. full in the mouth, very fruity, but missing acidity. 90 Pierre Blanche (Jurançon Sec); $27. Imported by Demontoux Fine Wines. —R.V. Imported by Demontoux Fine Wines. —R.V. A zesty, lemon wine, with an intriguing series of

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 herbal and animal flavors, this is not a wine to go spelled Mausac) grape gives a herbal character, unnoticed. It has weight, with spice and nut fla- filled out with white currants and yellow plums. To SAINT MONT vors adding to the fruit. Drink with shellfish or soften the wood, age for another year. Imported by sharp cheese. Imported by Bourgeois Family Jon-David Headrick Selections. —R.V. Producteurs Plaimont 2006 Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 88 Château de Sabazan (Saint- Mont); $25. A tightly tannic wine, with a firm Château Jolys 2008 Cuvée Jean MONBAZILLAC feeling of wood, balanced by stalky black currant (Jurançon); $30. Red currant jelly aro- 88 fruit and a layer of acidity. It is still young, with mas burst into a sweet, but not luscious wine. Château la Rayre 2005 Monbazil- There is just a touch of botrytis to go with fresh- the tannins likely to soften. Imported by Wine- ness and some crisp acidity. A dessert wine for 86 lac; $NA. From a great dessert wine sellers Ltd. —R.V. drinking, not sipping. Imported by Baron Fran- year, this is packed with botrytis, unctuous in tex- cois Ltd. —R.V. ture, rich and liquor-like. It is not for aging, but is delicious now. —R.V. FRONTON Domaine Bellegarde 2008 Cuvée 88 Tradition (Jurançon); $NA. Sweet, Yvon Mau 2007 Seigneurs de Château Bouissel 2008 Classic yes, but not intensely so, more a sweet apéritif 84 Monbazillac (Monbazillac); $10. A 85 (Fronton); $14. A bright, fruity wine that sweet wine for blue cheese or ham. The botrytis lightly botrytised wine, with sweet raisins and has black currant juice fruit just lightly strength- gives the wine a drier character, while the honey orange zest. The wine is soft, missing acidity, but ened by tannins. It is crisp, with considerable acid- element leads straight into citrus. —R.V. the freshness is just right. Imported by Freixenet ity. Imported by Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. USA. —R.V. GAILLAC BEAUJOLAIS Domaine Rotier 2007 Renaissance MADIRAN MORGON 91 (Gaillac); $23. Aged in a small propor- tion of new wood, this is a concentrated, sophisti- Château d’Aydie 2008 Madiran Domaine Pral 2008 Les Charmes cated wine. It derives its character from the local 91 Laplace Tannat-Cabernet (Madi- (Morgon); $19. A finely Braucol and Duras grapes, blended with Syrah. ran); $15. One of the top Madiran producers, 90 Together, these varieties give a complex, black structured wine, very firm, with a dark edge of Laplace tames the naturally tannic Tannat with a berry led wine, vivid with acidity and packed with tannins over ripe black fruit. The wine is concen- little Cabernet. But this is still a dark, intense tannins. Age for 4–5 years. Imported by OZ Wine trated and dense, still developing and showing wine, with plum skins and wood tannins to give Company. —R.V. great final juicy character. Imported by Bourgeois the whole wine a powerful structure. Age for 5 Family Selections. —R.V. Domaine Rotier 2008 Les Gravels years or more. Imported by Polaner Selections. 90 (Gaillac); $18. With its big tannins and Best Buy. —R.V. equally intense tarry black fruit flavors, this is a OTHER FRANCE bold brushstroke wine. The plum and damson Producteurs Plaimont 2007 Cuvée fruits fold over a solid base of dark tannins, giving 90 1907 (Madiran); $14. A wine created a rich textured, dense character. Age for 3–4 PATRIMONIO to celebrate 100 years of Madiran as a designated years. Imported by Wineberry America LLC. region, this is a solid, chunky, proper expression Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Clos Teddi 2008 Nielluciu (Patrimo- of Tannat. The tannins mold easily into the rich 88 nio); $24. A wine that tastes of its gran- Domaine Sarrabelle 2007 In black berry fruits, a wine piled high with com- ite soil, very linear initially, only opening slowly to 89 Vinum (Gaillac); $29. On the nose, plex flavors. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. Best give plums, exotic spices and the ripest firm tan- this wine is very obviously wood aged. The same Buy. —R.V. nins. There is a lovely juicy final character to this goes for the palate, with high toast wood smother- intriguing wine. Imported by Bourgeois Family ing the herbal, ripe plum fruits. The wine there- Producteurs Plaimont 2006 Pléni- Selections. —R.V. fore needs 2–3 years to soften and better 88 tude (Madiran); $30. Densely tex- integrate. Imported by Jon-David Headrick tured, this pure Tannat lives up to the name Clos Teddi 2008 Vermentino (Patri- Selections. —R.V. Plénitude (generous or full). It is characterized 86 monio); $24. A smooth, easy wine, Domaine Sarrabelle 2008 Le by dark plum and licorice flavor, very tannic with fresh, with a crisp citrus edge and a broad texture. 89 Mausac de Sarrabelle Blanc (Gail- ripe fruit to match. Concentrated, with a mineral It is the perfect wine for seafood, with its final lac); $12. With some wood aging, this is a edge, it just misses the mark because of a rustic tight acidity. Imported by Bourgeois Family rounded, toasty wine. The local Mauzac (also edge. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. Selections. —R.V.

WineMag.com | 45 BUYING I GUIDE

fresh, fruity and juicy. Imported by World Wide tage that shows the very best of Merlot in Italy. VIN DE LIQUEUR Wines. —R.V. Thanks to a unique growing climate located between Florence, Siena and Arezzo, as well as Château d’Aydie 2007 Maydie Tan- Domaine des Sablonnettes 2008 extremely low vineyard yields, the wine feels soft 90 nat Vintage (Vin de Liqueur); 84 Les Copains d’Abord (Vin de Table and velvety and imparts long-lasting flavors of $30/500 ml. Here’s a curiosity, a fortified Tannat, Francais); $11. Literally friends and neighbors black cherry, lively spice, tobacco and cigar box. made in the style of a Port. The acidity and tannins (the guys on the label dancing and playing an The true beauty of Galatrona is that it shows all make a definite connection with the grape, while accordion), this wine is a light, soft blend of the passion and enthusiasm of its very talented the mineral edge is close to the terroir. It has sweet Groslot and Cabernet Franc from Anjou. It is winemaker. Imported by Vintus LLC. Cellar blackberry juice flavors followed with richness. light, strawberry-juice flavored, with green acid- Selection. —M.L. Imported by Wineberry America LLC. —R.V. ity. Ready to drink now. Imported by World Wide Wines. —R.V. Le Macchiole 2006 Messorio Domaine Berthoumieu 2007 Tan- (Toscana); $320. Messorio (a 100% natis (Vin de Liqueur); $NA/500 Domaine des Nugues NV Gamay 98 89 expression of delicious Merlot) is a wine that has ml. Tannat, with its high tannins, seems to lend (Vin de Table Francais); $NA. Made 83 already reached elite cult status and for very good itself as well to sweet fortified wines as do the by Beaujolais producer Gilles Gelin, this sweet reason. The opulence, richness and overall pleas- Douro grapes of Port country. This is sweet, but rosé is full of ripe, crushed strawberries, a touch ure factor are unbeatable and the wine is sophis- firmly, solidly tannic, packed with wild berries of caramel and a rosehip aftertaste. More acidity and an edge of spice. Imported by Charles Neal would be welcome, but it works well as an ticated, elegant and balanced at the same time. Selections. —R.V. apéritif. —R.V. The long fade is characterized by vanilla, choco- late, espresso, cherry and blackberry. Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates. Cellar Selec- VIN DE PAYS TUSCANY tion. —M.L. Guy Saget 2008 La Petite Perrière RED WINES Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2006 Mas- 84 Sauvignon Blanc (Vin de Pays de 97 seto (Toscana); $460. This wine France); $13. Ripe Sauvignon Blanc, bringing MERLOT shows growing intensity the longer it stays in the out pear and apple flavors, topped with cream. glass and a very silky, polished feel in the mouth. There is a bite from an apple skin texture, along Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2007 Mas- Aromas include red fruit, spice and rosemary: this with bright, delicate acidity. Imported by Paster- 100 seto (Toscana); $460. A perfect is a beautiful, balanced wine that will have a long nak Wine Imports. —R.V. wine from a classic vintage, the 2007 Masseto life in your cellar. Imported by Folio Fine Wine (100% Merlot from a 17-acre vineyard of the same Partners. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Domaine de Virginie 2007 When name) opens with an unabashedly opulent bouquet 83 Cédric met Cécile Chardonnay (Vin of delicious blackberry, cherry, chocolate, vanilla, Castello di Ama 2006 L’Apparita de Pays Vignobles de France); $10. This exotic spice and cinnamon. Masseto excels both in 96 (Toscana); $169. L’Apparita is a divine wine is a blend of Chardonnay from different terms of quality of fruit and winemaking and deliv- and delicate expression of Merlot with rich layers regions of France. It is light, fresh and clean, with ers plush, velvety tannins and an extra long, supple of black cherry, blackberry, spice, mocha, cedar, some attractive white fruit flavors, lifted by some finish. It will make a special and valuable collec- exotic spice and polished stone that are seam- crisp acidity. Imported by Luneau USA Inc. —R.V. tion to your cellar. Imported by Folio Fine Wine lessly woven together. The wine hits the palate Partners. Cellar Selection. —M.L. with the softness and richness of the world’s best and leaves a fading impression of fruit VIN DE TABLE Le Macchiole 2007 Messorio and spice that can be counted in many long, deli- (Toscana); $320. Here’s a “wow” wine 99 cious minutes. Hold until 2018. Imported by The Couly-Dutheil NV Blanc de Franc you won’t easily forget. Messorio is all Merlot, Sorting Table. Cellar Selection. —M.L. 87 Cabernet Franc (Vin de Table Fran- and happily delivers the softness, richness and cais); $26. An oddity—Cabernet Franc made as overall opulence that we love in this noble grape Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2005 Mas- a white wine. It tastes delicious, with a feeling of variety. What elevates this particular expression seto (Toscana); $460. sweetness, with soft lychee and spiced apple fla- and vintage is the true elegance and sophistica- 95 Fruit was vors, balanced acidity and a lively juicy texture. tion evident here. This is a huge wine, but it’s not picked later than normal and the Masseto Merlot Imported by Frank-Lin International. —R.V. exaggerated and the finish is as long and smooth does indeed show mature aromas of black cherry, as they come. Imported by Domaine Select Wine ripe blackberry, earthy iron and polished stone. Domaine des Sablonnettes 2008 Estates. Cellar Selection. —M.L. The intensity and purity are amazing and the 85 Les Copines Aussi Gamay (Vin de wine is sophisticated, soft and very rich on the Table Francais); $11. The partner to Copains Fattoria Petrolo 2007 Galatrona finish. It is already showing beautiful evolution d’Abord, this wine sports a label of women having 98 (Toscana); $135. Galatrona is an opu- in the glass. Imported by Folio Fine Wine Part- a good time at a party. The wine suits the image: lent, gorgeous wine (from the excellent 2007) vin- ners. Cellar Selection. —M.L.

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 Poliziano 2007 In Violas Merlot Le Grascete 2008 Antero Merlot firm and silky and the fade is long and velvety. 92 (Cortona); $40. This is a gorgeous wine 87 (Toscana); $NA. Antero is a 100% Imported by Winebow. Cellar Selection. — with enormous intensity of fruit that comes forward expression of Merlot with green notes of euca- M.L. as cherry, blackberry, spice, leather and cigar box. lyptus, caper olive and herbs. There’s a warm The texture is soft, smooth and velvety: In Violas note of graham cracker as well and the wine ends Giovanni Chiappini 2007 Lienà has the heft and persistency to stand up to rose- with sweet, firm concentration. Imported by CM 91 Cabernet Franc (Toscana); $NA. mary-marinated T-bone steak. Imported by Palm Selections Classic Wine. —M.L. Shaped by 15 months in oak barrique, this pure Bay International. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. expression of Cabernet Franc is beautifully inte- grated with impressively intense aromas of black Tenuta Villa Trasqua 2006 Trasolo PETIT VERDOT fruit and spice. You’ll also recognize mineral, root beer or herb and the wine ends with a blast of 92 (Toscana); $90. From a 300-acre prop- Podere San Cristoforo 2008 Petit black, jammy berry fruit. Imported by Nardone erty in Castellina in Chianti, Trasolo (100% Mer- Verdot (Toscana); $30. Made by the Wine. —M.L. lot) is a top-shelf wine with rich opulence and 92 energetic and totally enthused Lorenzo Zonin, sophistication. Deep layers of cherry, blackberry, this beautiful wine shows all the potential and Duemani 2005 Cabernet Franc spice and leather are folded tight together and charisma of this young, passionate winemaker. A (Toscana); $90. Duemani is known for the wine is smooth and enduring on the close. 90 pure expression of Petit Verdot, the wine is inky its high quality organic and biodynamic wines Imported by Admiral Imports. —M.L. black with determined aromas of blackberry, from Tuscany. This hearty expression of Cab plum, exotic spice and leather. It feels warm, Franc shows wonderful intensity with dark aro- Castello del Trebbio 2006 Merlot thick and firm on the long finish. Imported by mas of blackberry, black cherry, crushed pepper 89 (Toscana); $25. Here’s a ripe and chewy Planet Wine. —M.L. and polished river stone. The wine is firm and expression of Merlot with slightly jammy aromas of and focused with finely textured tannins. blackberry and maraschino cherry. Light shadings Imported by Acid Inc Selections. —M.L. of spice and mineral appear in the background and CABERNET FRANC the wine is smooth and soft on the finish. Imported Fornacelle 2007 Foglio 38 (Toscana); by Total Wine & More. —M.L. Le Macchiole 2007 Paleo 90 $NA. Foglio 38 (a pure expression of 98 (Toscana); $125. Paleo (a pure expres- Cabernet Franc) offers loads of black fruit intensity Le Tre Stelle 2005 Doanto sion of Cabernet Franc from Coastal Tuscany) is a and lingering spice. There are green characteris- 89 (Toscana); $NA. Le Tre Stelle (the drop dead gorgeous wine with amazing intensity tics here of caper, herbs and black olive as well as three stars) is named after Maria Rubicini and and purity of aromas. You get it all here: Bright fruity tones of blackberry and plum. In the mouth, her two daughters that run this boutique estate in berry notes, drying mineral, exotic spice, cooling the wine shows firm, gripping tannins that will San Gimignano, Tuscany. This 100% Merlot acidity and firm, satisfying structure. It’s a rich, soften with a few more years in the bottle. offers ripe and succulent aromas of black fruit, velvety and beautiful wine that will award you a Imported by Tuscany Import. —M.L. cherry and blackberry. Thanks to 12 months of memorable drinking experience now or in 10 oak aging, it also shows fine aromas of leather, years time. Imported by Domaine Select Wine Villa Vignamaggio 2006 Cabernet spice and tobacco. Imported by Terra Verus Trad- Estates. Cellar Selection. —M.L. 90 Franc (Toscana); $40. Here’s a Tuscan ing Co. LP. —M.L. expression of Cabernet Franc that offers warm, Le Macchiole 2006 Paleo dark concentration and bold aromas of black Villa Pillo 2008 Sant’Adele Merlot 96 (Toscana); $125. This beautiful vintage berry fruit and spice. There’s also a nice mineral of Paleo (an oak-aged expression of Cabernet component here that lends structure and a sensa- (Toscana); $16. Here’s a quality Merlot 88 Franc) shows dark, inky intensity and loads of tion of dryness. Imported by Bedford Interna- offered at a very reasonable low price. Sant’Adele mature black fruit, spice, plum, prune and black- tional. —M.L. is rich, succulent and smooth with bursting aro- berry. It is extremely smooth and rich with a long- mas of cherry, blueberry, spice and moist tobacco. lasting fade that consists of fruit and clove-like Pair this wine with homemade roast chicken and flavors. Yet, the tannins are still firm, so put this CABERNET SAUVIGNON garlic potatoes. Imported by Pebble Ridge Wine wine aside in your cellar for at least five years. Estates. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates. Cel- Castello dei Rampolla 2006 Sam- lar Selection. —M.L. 93 marco (Toscana); $85. Here’s a beau- Villa Poggio Salvi 2007 Lavischio tiful Tuscan expression of Cabernet Sauvignon 88 Merlot (Toscana); $20. Lavischio is a Poggio al Tesoro 2007 Dedicato a (with tiny percentages of Sangiovese and Merlot) ripe and chewy expression of Merlot with loads of 96 Walter Cabernet Franc (Toscana); that rolls smoothly over the palate thanks to the black cherry and raspberry intensity. The mouth- $90. An impressive wine from an impressive vin- wine’s natural richness, purity and overall inten- feel is smooth, supple and rich. This is the perfect tage, this Tuscan expression of Cabernet Franc sity. Aromas include ripe berry, blue flower and wine to pair with pork roast with rosemary and opens with opulent fruit notes of blackberry, exotic spice, but the wine is especially successful garlic. Imported by Shaw-Ross International prune, plum and ripe cherry backed by clove, in the mouth thanks to the fullness of its texture. Importers. —M.L. pepper, leather and cigar box. The tannins are Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.

WineMag.com | 47 BUYING I GUIDE

Castello di Monsanto 2004 Nemo aromas comes forward slowly and consistency that mature fruit sits firmly in center stage. The 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Toscana); on the bouquet. Imported by Remy Cointreau mouthfeel is soft, easy and slightly sweet. $50. The fine folks at Castello di Monsanto man- USA. —M.L. Imported by Premium Brands. —M.L. age to always produce elegant and harmonious wines from Tuscany. This exceptional Cabernet Fattoria di Petrognano 2003 Mon- Sauvignon shows remarkable quality both in 89 tevago (Toscana); $32. Here is a well SYRAH terms of its flavor presentation and its territory- aged Cab Sauvignon that shows the heat of the driven personality. The long fade is colored by 2003 vintage as aromas of blackberry preserves and Le Macchiole 2007 Scrio (Toscana); blackberry, cherry and spice flavors. Imported by strawberry roll-up. Thanks to 18 months of oak 98 $225. Scrio is a top-notch Syrah from Moët Hennessy USA. —M.L. aging there’s also plenty of spice, leather and pipe Coastal Tuscany that does an excellent job of por- tobacco at the back. Imported by Sun Wine traying not only the true nuances of the noble grape Cignale 2005 Cignale (Colli della Imports. —M.L. variety, but also the bounty of the beautiful territory 93 Toscana Centrale); $83. Cignale, or that shaped it. Let this wine transport you to wild boar is one of Tuscany’s best expressions of Tenuta di Trecciano 2006 Cabernet cypress-lined roads, stone farmhouses and Tuscan Cabernet Sauvignon. A small percentage of Mer- 88 Sauvignon (Toscana); $14. The wine cuisine. The pleasure factor and richness are lot is added for softness and flavor and the wine is easy, fresh and redolent of wild berries, cher- unbeatable. Imported by Domaine Select Wine oozes darkness, blackberry and exotic spice at its ries, peppercorn and clove. It tastes rich and con- Estates. Cellar Selection. —M.L. core. Pair it with game meat or spicy pork sistent thanks to its naturally firm tannins. sausage. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. — Imported by Total Wine & More. —M.L. Terre del Marchesato 2007 March- M.L. esale Syrah (Toscana); $NA. March- Tommasi 2008 Poggio al Tufo 94 esale is an excellent Syrah with an inky, black Giovanni Chiappini 2007 Lienà Cabernet Sauvignon (Maremma); 86 appearance and intense aromas of blueberry, Cabernet Sauvignon (Toscana); $15. This is an informal and fresh Cabernet that 93 plum, prune, black pepper and crushed stone. $NA. This is a 100% expression of Cabernet, would pair perfectly with easy pasta dishes or The wine shows incredible richness and density with ripe, jammy fruit and lingering tones of lasagna. Aromas include black cherry and plum and lasts long on the palate thanks to its firm, suc- spice, leather, rum cake, strawberry rollup and and the wine offers a polished and compact feel culent tannins. Imported by Small Vineyards blackberry pie. The wine is round and ripe but it overall. Imported by Rolar. —M.L. LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.L. also adopts an elegant, direct style that is enhanced by a nice touch of acidity on the close. Terre del Marchesato 2006 March- Imported by Nardone Wine. —M.L. ALICANTE 93 esale Syrah (Toscana); $65. March- Máté 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Tommasi 2007 Poggio al Tufo Ali- esale is one of the best Italian expressions of Syrah available today. Aged two years in oak, the (Sant’Antimo); $NA. A lovely Cab cante (Maremma); $24. Alicante 92 87 wine is smooth and textured with fine tannins and from Montalcino, with bright berry aromas of imparts bright berry notes and sharp tones of white a long spicy aftertaste. At the core of the wine is a blackberry and wild cherry backed by exotic almond and bramble. Poggio al Tufo’s expression is beautiful bouquet of red berry, pepper, smoked spice, clove, sweet cinnamon and a touch of easy and fine with very nice berry brightness on espresso bean. The wine is firm but smooth on the close. Pair it with pasta topped with melted meat and cherry cola. Imported by Small Vine- the finish with loads of fruit intensity at the very mozzarella cheese. Imported by Rolar. —M.L. yards LLC. —M.L. end. Imported by Vinilandia USA. —M.L. Batzella 2007 Bliss Syrah Fattoria di Casalbosco 2006 Opus SANGIOVESE 92 (Toscana); $NA. Some 18 months of 91 Magnum Cabernet Sauvignon careful oak aging have shaped a deep, layered (Toscana); $22. Here’s an elegant but also very Michele Satta 2006 Cavaliere wine with loads of cherry and cola. The wine approachable and friendly wine. There’s a bright, 91 (Toscana); $NA. Here’s an elegantly shows a compact, streamlined structure but there lively quality to the fruit here and the finish is oak aged Sangiovese with simple but bright fruit is backbone here and the fresh acidity at the end long and rich in fresh fruit nuances. Would make tones of cherry, blueberry and raspberry. There’s really hits the spot. Imported by J. Cambier a perfect pairing partner to oven roasted pasta plenty of spice, cola and cured meat at the back Import Inc. —M.L. and easy meat stew. Imported by Joshua Tree and the wine ends with fresh acidity and smooth Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. tannins. Imported by Banville & Jones Wine Michele Satta 2008 Syrah Merchants. —M.L. 92 (Toscana); $NA. Here’s a pure expres- Jacopo Biondi-Santi 2003 Mon- sion of Syrah from coastal Tuscany that lays on 90 tepaone (Toscana); $75. Montepaone Antonino Tringali-Casanuova 2008 intense aromas of smoked bacon, bresaola, cherry is a classic expression of Cabernet that shows enor- 88 Toscana; $19. Here’s a 100% expres- fruit, spice, blackberry and black pepper. The mous focus on elegance and harmony despite the sion of Sangiovese that opens with jammy fruit wine shows amazing intensity and persistency on hot vintage. The wine feels streamlined and tight aromas of ripe blackberry and strawberry. There the close. Imported by Banville & Jones Wine on the palate, but the intensity of its fruit and spice are spice, earth and smoke notes at the back but Merchants. —M.L.

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 Duemani 2005 Suisassi Syrah sity, purity and texture. You’ll appreciate aromas terms of overall quality this is the best yet from 91 (Toscana); $120. Made with organi- of mineral, ripe fruit, leather, tobacco and choco- this sea-facing estate in coastal Tuscany. The cally-framed fruit. The bouquet here is very dis- late. Imported by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. blend sees Cabernet Sauvignon enhanced by tinctive with aromas of ripe blackberry, Cellar Selection. —M.L. Merlot and Cabernet Franc and the overall effect maraschino cherry, clove, ground black pepper, is one of impressive intensity and sophistication. cured meat and polished stone. The feel it Castello dei Rampolla 2006 D’Al- The finish is velvety rich and smooth. Imported imparts in the mouth is one of softness and inten- 96 ceo (Toscana); $275. D’Alceo is a by Eurobiz Inc. —M.L. sity. Imported by Acid Inc Selections. —M.L. drop dead gorgeous wine that oozes intensity, blackness, fruitiness, exotic spice and smoke. In Tenuta San Guido 2007 Sassicaia Máté 2006 Banditone Syrah the mouth, this beautifully executed super Tuscan 95 (Bolgheri Sassicaia); $220. This iconic 91 (Sant’Antimo); $NA. A 100% expres- is about as rich, smooth and opulent as they from Bolgheri’s landmark Sassicaia sion of Syrah showing loads of varietal personal- come. You’ll love the lingering notes of mature vineyard (characterized by little rocks, or “sassi”) ity. Aromas here include red berry, moist berry, chocolate and espresso that drive the long, offers an elegant bouquet comprised in equal tobacco, leather, cured meat and ground pepper- smooth finish. Imported by Vias Imports. Cellar measure by mineral, fruit and spice nuances. The corn. The wine is rich and smooth on the close Selection. —M.L. wine consists of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% with a touch of soft sweetness. Imported by Vini- Cabernet Franc and the finish is long, smooth and landia USA. —M.L. Tenuta Sette Ponti 2007 Oreno very fine. This is an ageworthy wine that should not 96 (Toscana); $100. No doubt you will be opened before 2018. Imported by Kobrand. Tenuta di Trecciano 2007 Suavis very much enjoy this super Tuscan blend of Mer- Cellar Selection. —M.L. 87 Locus Ille (Toscana); $14. Here’s a lot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. The pure expression of Syrah from Tuscany that shows wine is rich, smooth and opulent: The quality of Cecchi 2007 Coevo (Toscana); $58. loads of sun-ripened aromas of mature berry, the fruit is also excellent with background shad- 94 Cecchi’s Coevo is a wonderful super Tus- mesquite, pepper and smoked ham. True to the ings of black mineral, mature cherry, clove, rum can blend that costs half as much as the other variety, the wine is smooth and rich on the close cake, smoked ham and cola. Imported by cult wines in this elite category. The wine is rich, with soft tannins. Imported by Total Wine & Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —M.L. opulent, intense and extremely focused in terms More. —M.L. of its aromatic delivery and the mouthfeel is long, Aia Vecchia 2007 Sorugo (Bolgheri textured and rich. Imported by Banfi Vintners. Villa Pillo 2008 Syrah (Toscana); 95 Superiore); $40. Sorugo (a blend of Editors’ Choice. —M.L. 87 $16. This plush and easy expression of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Syrah opens with distinct aromas of cured meat, Cabernet Franc) is nothing short of gorgeous Fattoria Le Pupille 2005 Saffredi spice, black fruit, white pepper and mature with elegant aromas of polished mineral, cherry, 94 (Maremma); $130. Saffredi is a beau- cherry. The wine is smooth and rich with a fine, chocolate, leather and brooding black fruit. It’s tiful wine, worthy of membership in an elite class soft nature of tannins. Imported by Pebble Ridge soft and textured with a refreshing note of acidity of super Tuscan wines from Italy. The blend is Wine Estates. —M.L. backed by excellent density. Imported by Dalla Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alicante and a tiny Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. percentage of Syrah and the overall result is that of plushness, softness and intensity. Aromas RED BLENDS Mazzei 2007 Castello di include spice, chocolate, blackberry and cherry. 95 Fonterutoli Siepi (Toscana); $120. Imported by Lauber Imports. —M.L. Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2007 Ornel- Siepi is a gorgeous super Tuscan blend of San- 99 laia (Bolgheri Superiore); $200. giovese and Merlot that exhibits richness, intensity Grattamacco 2007 Red (Bolgheri The 2007 Ornellaia is a masterpiece blend of and purity. This is a luscious and opulent expres- 94 Superiore); $120. This rich blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc sion with deep aromas of cherry, blackberry, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese) and a tiny element of Petit Verdot. The intensity chocolate, espresso bean and spice. The finish is opens with pretty chocolate tones followed by opu- and purity are outstanding and the wine delivers super long and delicious. Imported by Palm Bay lent cherry, spice, leather, tobacco and cola. This is beautiful notes of chocolate, black cherry, leather, International. Cellar Selection. —M.L. a well shaped and focused wine with a linear, ele- cedar and spice. It’s a big, modern expression that gant feel in the mouth capped by soft, chewy tex- closes long with luscious softness and opulent Poggio Antico 2007 Madre ture. Imported by Bedford International. —M.L. fruit. Hold 10 years or more. Imported by Folio 95 (Toscana); $NA. A 50-50 blend of San- Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —M.L. giovese and Cabernet, this wine is rich and opu- Jacopo Biondi-Santi 2001 Schid- lent, without being at all heavy or exaggerated. The 94 ione (Toscana); $150. For lovers of Marchesi Antinori 2007 Guado al mouthfeel is smooth, soft but structured and there sophisticated Italian wine, Schidione (a hearty 97 Tasso (Bolgheri Superiore); $102. is a long fruit and spice flavored finish. Imported by blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Guado al Tasso is a wine that will make you fall The Sorting Table. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Merlot) shows personality, elegance and impres- uncontrollably in love with Italy. Cabernet Sauvi- sive intensity. The mouthfeel is smooth and rich. gnon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot Tenuta Argentiera 2007 Argen- An excellent addition to a cellar collection. are expertly blended to produce amazing inten- 95 tiera (Bolgheri Superiore); $60. In Imported by Remy Cointreau USA. —M.L.

WineMag.com | 49 BUYING I GUIDE

Mazzei 2007 Tenuta Belguardo ful blend of Cabernet with smaller percentages of Poggio al Tesoro 2007 Sondraia 94 (Maremma); $70. You’ll love the tones Merlot and Petit Verdot. The wine is elegant, 93 (Bolgheri); $50. Merlot and Cabs of rich chocolate, leather, berry fruit, cassis and complex and layered with intense aromas of Sauvignon and Franc are the base of this ripe, vanilla. All those aromas are backed by dense, blackberry, cherry, spice, leather, smoke and dense and rich Bolgheri blend. The intensity is rich extraction and smooth softness. Imported by Spanish cedar. It’s beautiful from start to finish. impressive and so is the overall density and persist- Palm Bay International. —M.L. Imported by Kobrand. —M.L. ence of the finish. Pair this wine with hearty dishes, such as sausage and slow-cooked lentils. Podere Sapaio 2007 Sapaio (Bol- Castello di Bolgheri 2007 Red (Bol- Imported by Winebow. —M.L. 94 gheri Superiore); $80. This is a 93 gheri Superiore); $60. This is a pris- lovely, rich wine with mature red berry tones fol- tine and elegant Bolgheri Superiore with a Poggio Mandorlo 2006 Poggioman- lowed by sharp mineral definition and bright aro- particularly focused aromatic profile. The blend is 93 dorlo (Maremma); $NA. Made by mas of fresh Indian spice. The wine is dense and 60-20-20 Cab Sauvignon, Cab Franc and Merlot. consulting enologist Roberto Cipressi, this rich decadent and could stand up to beef tenderloin A green, herbal note comes through. You’ll also blend of Merlot, Cab Franc and Sangiovese offers with balsamic reduction. Imported by Vinifera recognize elements of caper, green olive, mineral, an impressive lineup of fruit, spice and mineral aro- Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L. tobacco and exotic fruit. It shows thick fruit and mas. The wine is incredibly smooth on the fade dense concentration as well. Imported by New with lingering notes of clove and cinnamon on the Poggio Antico 2006 Madre England Wine and Spirits Inc. —M.L. close. Imported by Ima Imports. —M.L. 94 (Toscana); $80. Madre, or mother in Italian, is a feminine but sturdy blend that shows Giovanni Chiappini 2007 Guado dè Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2007 Le Serre both the floral and forest berry characteristics of 93 Gemoli (Bolgheri Superiore); $NA. 93 Nuove (Bolgheri); $60. Le Serre the Cabernet backed by the natural heft and Guado dè Gemoli is a 80-20 blend of Cab Sauvi- Nuove presents an intense and harmonious bou- intensity of the Sangiovese. This impressive super gnon and Merlot that is enhanced by elegant min- quet that is accented by opulent notes of black Tuscan blend would make a perfect partner to eral and slate aromas backed by wild berry, cherry, cherry, chocolate, cinnamon spice, leather and grilled steak or marinated pork. Imported by The leather, licorice and cherry cola. There’s plenty of tobacco. The blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sorting Table. —M.L. sweet, chewy fruit in the mouth to give the wine Cabernet France and Petit Verdot ends long on the staying power. The close is both succulent and close with enduring density and velvety texture. Batzella 2007 Tâm (Bolgheri Supe- smooth. Imported by Nardone Wine. —M.L. Imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. 93 riore); $NA. Here’s a blockbuster blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%) and Cabernet Grattamacco 2007 L’Alberello (Bol- Tenuta di Biserno 2007 Coronato Franc that impresses on all levels. The aromatic 93 gheri Superiore); $85. This gorgeous 93 (Bolgheri); $74. This excellent vintage intensity is outstanding, with deep levels of vintage of L’Alberello (Cabernet Sauvignon with of Coronato (a hearty blend of Cabernet Sauvi- cherry, chocolate, tobacco and exotic spice. But Cab Franc and Petit Verdot) is elegant and gnon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot) what impresses most of all is the mouthfeel: It is refined thanks to its focused aromas of mineral, opens with inky, black concentration and aromas rich, opulent, velvety and smooth. Imported by black fruit, chocolate fudge and spice. The soft, of chocolate fudge, espresso, black fruit and J. Cambier Import Inc. —M.L. but rich mouthfeel would pair with pork cutlets spice. The wine tastes velvety and rich and will marinated with aromatic sage. Imported by Bed- age for 10 years or more. Imported by Wilson Campo alla Sughera 2006 Campo ford International. —M.L. Daniels Ltd. —M.L. 93 alla Sughera (Toscana); $NA. Wow! This is a big wine with inky, black notes and almost Guicciardini Strozzi 2007 Vignarè Tenuta I Greppi 2007 Greppicaia exaggerated aromatic intensity. The blend is 70-30 93 (Bolgheri Superiore); $NA. Equal 93 (Bolgheri Superiore); $65. Some Petit Verdot and Merlot and it’s almost as if the parts Merlot, Cab Sauvignon and Franc shape a obvious oak tones of spice and tobacco will inte- density and concentration of the first variety beautifully opulent wine that is loaded with ripe grate with more time in the bottle to give more needed to be cut by the softness and gentleness of fruit, smoke, polished black stone, smoke and space to the ripe fruit, mineral and chocolate the second. Imported by Ionia Atlantic. —M.L. chocolate. The wine is very influenced by 18 notes that are already present in very good meas- months of oak aging (it feels rich, supple and vel- ure. The wine shows muscle and power with a Campo alla Sughera 2007 Arnione vety) and will age 10 years or more. Imported by determined, firm finish. Imported by Sherbrooke 93 (Bolgheri Superiore); $NA. This is a Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. Cellars. —M.L. massive, beautifully put together Bolgheri Superi- ore that opens with a complex bouquet of pol- Podere Sapaio 2006 Sapaio (Bol- Tenuta Sette Ponti 2006 Orma ished stone, dried fruit, prunes, plums, black- 93 gheri Superiore); $70. This edition of 93 (Toscana); $90. This vintage of Orma berry and new leather. The wine feels tight and Sapaio (a hearty blend of Cabernets Sauvignon (a hearty blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon compact with a fine, silky quality of tannin. and Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot) shows ripe and Cabernet Franc) shows loads of ripe fruit Imported by Ionia Atlantic. —M.L. fruit nuances of cherry, blackberry, dark spice and intensity backed by spice, toasted nut, chocolate, moist tobacco. The wine boasts a soft, thick and tobacco and leather. It’s a chewy, rich wine that Castello del Terriccio 2005 Lupicaia velvety feel and would pair with any winter meat would taste perfect with steak or roast pork. 93 (Toscana); $150. Lupicaia is a beauti- dish. Imported by Vinifera Imports. —M.L. Imported by Kobrand. —M.L.

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 Tenuta Sette Ponti 2007 Poggio al made, Maronea is a precious blend of Merlot, Donna Olimpia 1898 2007 93 Lupo (Toscana); $80. Poggio al Lupo Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot that 92 Millepassi (Bolgheri Superiore); is a super Tuscan blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, opens with huge concentration and plush aromas of $NA. Millepassi (one-thousand footsteps) is an Alicante and Petit Verdot that delivers loads of ripe cherry, blackberry and chocolate. The tannins austere and sophisticated Bolgheri blend of chocolate fudge, spice, mature fruit and sweet are firm and determined: The finish is accented by Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot. tobacco. The wine is soft, smooth and makes a sweet fruit. Imported by Vino Veritas. —M.L. The wine is very ripe (just shy of being exaggerat- perfect companion to succulent meat dishes. edly mature or jammy) with bright aromas of Imported by Kobrand. —M.L. Casa di Terra 2007 Poggio Querci- strawberry, spice, blackberry and dense choco- 92 olo (Toscana); $NA. Poggio Querci- late. Imported by Sapphire Brands. —M.L. Caccia al Piano 1868 2006 Levia olo represents a beautiful blend of Cabernet 92 Gravia (Bolgheri Superiore); $NA. Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot that shows Fossacolle 2007 Riesci (Toscana); Levia Gravia (a hearty blend of Cabernet Sauvi- amazing structure and aromatic intensity. Aromas 92 $45. Riesci is a super Tuscan blend of gnon, Merlot and Syrah) is an opulent and pleas- include bursting cherry, blackberry, cola, choco- Cabernet, Petit Verdot and Merlot with lovely urable wine that moves gracefully over the palate late, spice and leather. Pair this wine with grilled density and opulence backed by bright aromas of thanks to its lively fruit, firm tannins and rich steak garnished with olive oil and rosemary. mature berry fruit, cherry cola, blackberry pie, mouthfeel. The long fade is colored by nuances of Imported by Vino Veritas. —M.L. leather and dark chocolate. It’s a black, inky wine vanilla and exotic spice. —M.L. with solid tannins that will cut through succulent Casa di Terra 2008 Mosaico (Bol- steak. —M.L. Canneto 2006 Filippone (Toscana); gheri); $NA. The wine opens with deep $40. 92 92 Filippone is a 50-50 blend of San- intensity and rich concentration: Black cherry, spice Fuligni 2007 S.J. (San Jacopo) giovese and Merlot that is layered tight with aro- and chocolate are fundamental components of the (Toscana); $33. San Jacopo is a 50-50 mas of wild berries, blue flower, plush cherry, 92 bouquet. The mouthfeel is rich and decadent to blend of Sangiovese and Merlot that offers gener- moist earth and a touch of playful spice. The the end. This 40-40-20 blend of Merlot, Cab Sauvi- ous and abundant aromas of ripe cherry and rasp- structure is firm without being hard and the wine gnon and Syrah would make the perfect compan- berry, spice and cinnamon, chocolate and would pair with pasta or meat. Imported by ion to pork shank in Porcini mushroom sauce. tobacco. Rich, smooth texture characterizes the Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L. Imported by Vino Veritas. —M.L. mouthfeel and the wine is plush and silky on the close. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. Capezzana 2004 Ghiaie della Furba Castello del Terriccio 2005 Castello (Toscana); $50. A beautiful wine from a 92 del Terriccio (Toscana); $70. There’s a Giorgio Meletti Cavallari 2007 classic vintage, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon 92 very linear and elegant quality to this wine that Impronte (Bolgheri Superiore); offers harmony, intensity and elegance. Berry and 92 recalls perfectly ripened blueberry and crisp cherry. $NA. This 70-30 blend of Cabernets Sauvignon dark fruit aromas are enhanced by smooth texture, Beyond those bright fruit tones, this blend of Syrah, and Franc opens with beautifully intense and opu- fine tannins and balanced acidity. Imported by Petit Verdot and other mixed grapes offers hearty lent notes of blackberry, mature cherry, spice, Moët Hennessy USA. —M.L. aromas of smoked ham, crushed pepper and worn leather and tobacco. The wine is rich and smooth Capezzana 2005 Ghiaie della leather. Imported by Kobrand. —M.L. and offers a playful touch of piquant acidity on the Furba (Toscana); $50. The historic close. Imported by Specialty Wine Co. —M.L. 92 Castello di Gabbiano 2006 Capezzana estate produces excellent wines in a Alleanza (Toscana); $35. Grattamacco 2006 L’Alberello (Bol- little-known wine region northwest of Florence. 92 Alleanza This hearty blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot represents a successful collaboration between 92 gheri Superiore); $85. This is a beau- and Syrah shows the best of Tuscan winemaking winemakers in Italy and California. The 70-30 tiful and rich blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, thanks to the purity of the fruit and the warm blend consists of Merlot and Sangiovese and the Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot that shows the background etching of smoke and spice that com- wine is seductively redolent of wild berries, exotic best of Bolgheri Superiore winemaking. There’s plete a very pretty picture. Imported by Moët spice, soft chocolate and mild tobacco. The plush opulence and sophistication here with tones of Hennessy USA. —M.L. mouthfeel wins points thanks to the smooth and wild berry, chocolate, tobacco and polished stone. silky nature of the finish. Imported by Foster’s Imported by Bedford International. —M.L. Carpineto 2001 Sillano (Toscana); Wine Estates Americas. —M.L. 92 $70. Here’s a super Tuscan blend of San- I Balzini 2006 Black Label (Colli giovese and Cabernet Sauvignon that shows its 10 Cecchi 2006 Coevo (Toscana); $58. 92 della Toscana Centrale); $52. years of age surprising well. There’s still loads of 92 This first vintage of Coevo (a super Tus- Antonella and husband Vincenzo D’Isanto are the fruit here backed by tertiary aromas of licorice, can blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvi- enthusiastic owners of the beautiful I Balzini estate polished stone, dried fruit and old leather. gnon and Petit Verdot) represents a new and in Tuscany. This gorgeous blend of Cabernet Sauvi- Imported by Opici Import Company. —M.L. dynamic project for Tuscany’s historic Cecchi gnon (50%), Sangiovese and Merlot offers softness, estate. The wine is rich, opulent and redolent of intensity and personality. It’s a smooth, silky wine Casa di Terra 2007 Maronea (Bol- all kinds of dark fruit and spice. Imported by with elegant tones of black cherry, spice and 92 gheri); $NA. With just over 200 cases Banfi Vintners. —M.L. leather. Imported by Siena Imports. —M.L.

WineMag.com | 51 BUYING I GUIDE

Michele Satta 2007 I Castagni five years of bottle aging. Imported by Vinifera Cavalli Tenuta degli Dei 2006 Red 92 (Bolgheri Superiore); $NA. I Imports. —M.L. 91 (Toscana); $NA. This super Tuscan is Castagni (the chestnut trees) is a beautiful blend designed by fashion icon Roberto Cavalli who of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Teroldego (a Poggio al Tesoro 2008 Mediterra owns the Tenuta degli Dei estate in Tuscany. The native grape of northern Italy) that ages 18 92 (Toscana); $25. This blend of Syrah, blend sees Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit months in barrique to achieve impressive rich- Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon is a unique wine Verdot and Cabernet Franc resulting in a dense, ness, density and persistency. The aromas include that shows quality fruit aromas of wild berry and rich and opulent red wine that is redolent of crushed stone, ripe berry, blackberry, coffee, tar sweet cherries backed by drying mineral, cola and mature fruit and spice. —M.L. and chocolate. Imported by Banville & Jones exotic spice. The mouthfeel is excellent with a Wine Merchants. —M.L. plush, sweet close. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. Cipriana 2007 San Martino (Bol- 91 gheri Superiore); $NA. If you can Michele Satta 2007 Piastraia (Bol- Poggio Mandorlo 2007 Ombre accept a slight hint of jamminess, this blend of 92 gheri); $NA. Piastraia is a luscious and 92 (Maremma); $NA. Ombre is a very Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot is for you. decadent wine with a plush, smooth mouthfeel. pleasurable blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Beyond the ripe cherry and blackberry is a beau- This blend of Merlot, Syrah, Sangiovese and Sangiovese that offers layers of chocolate and tiful blast of pleasure and opulence. Pair this wine Cabernet Sauvignon opens with focused spice backed by red cherry, cassis and wild blue- with succulent cuts of red meat. Imported by mineral tones backed by cherry, blackberry and berry. It’s a smooth, rich wine with firm tannins Blue Star International Imports LLC. —M.L. spice. Imported by Banville & Jones Wine that could stand up to pork roll stuffed with Collemassari 2006 Riserva (Mon- Merchants. —M.L. prunes. Imported by Ima Imports. —M.L. 91 tecucco); $35. This beautiful Riserva Podere Brizio 2007 Leonensis Pratesi 2006 Carmione (Toscana); from Montecucco (coastal Tuscany) shows loads $30. Carmione is a 50-10-40 blend of of Sangiovese personality. You’ll recognize the (Sant’Antimo); $NA. Leonensis is a 92 92 Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot variety’s true character in the wine’s bright aromas truly beautiful blend of Sangiovese (50%) with that opens with a bright bouquet of wild spice, of wild berry, toasted almond, blue flower and Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc that opens with black fruit, prune, plum and rum cake. The wine moist earth. There’s structure and definition too, plush and thick aromas of chocolate, spice, almond is dense and dark with a thick, almost gritty feel and the wine offers a long, bright finish. paste, black fruit, cherry and cassis. In the mouth, in the mouth. This is a bruiser that would pair Imported by Bedford International. —M.L. the wine imparts a soft, smooth texture and long with mesquite-grilled ribeye steak. Imported by finish. Imported by A Marc de Grazia selection; Winebow. —M.L. Donna Olimpia 1898 2007 Red various American importers. —M.L. 91 (Bolgheri); $NA. This is a dynamic and Aia Vecchia 2008 Lagone (Toscana); exciting wine with loads of depth and personality. Podere Guado al Melo 2007 Red $16. Lagone is a pleasurable and rich The hearty blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, (Bolgheri Superiore); $41. This Bol- 91 92 blend of Merlot, Cab Sauvignon, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc opens with gheri Superiore shows luscious and clean notes of Sangiovese that opens with rich, dark color and blackberry, spice, mature cherry, plum and mature black fruit, plum, prune and loads of intense aromas of sweet spice, chocolate, cherry leather. It feels compact and tight in the mouth vibrant black cherry. Wood elements of spice, and tobacco. The wine feels chewy and smooth in and the finish is long and full of lively fruit flavor. tobacco and leather are well integrated and the the mouth with a long, velvety feel on the close. Imported by Sapphire Brands. —M.L. wine is impressively smooth and generous on the Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. finish. Imported by Private Reserve. —M.L. Enrico Santini 2006 Montepergoli Batzella 2008 Pean (Bolgheri); $NA. (Bolgheri Superiore); $45. Thanks to Podere Sapaio 2007 Volpolo (Bol- 91 91 Pean (an 80-20 blend of Cabernet Sauvi- the firm and structured nature of the tannins, Mon- 92 gheri); $44. The wine is plush and rich gnon and Cabernet Franc) is a round, supple and tepergoli will benefit from another five years of cel- with fragrant aromas of black cherry, blackberry, concentrated wine with a full, soft feeling in the lar aging. The wine opens with black, ripe fruit and spice, leather, cola and tobacco. This beautiful mouth and a generously smooth texture. The aro- smoky aromas of tanned leather, clove and pepper- blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit mas recall ripe cherry, chocolate and exotic spice. corn. Imported by Vintus LLC. —M.L. Verdot would pair perfectly with classic osso Imported by J. Cambier Import Inc. —M.L. buco, slow cooked until falling off the bone. Fattoria di Casalbosco 2006 Imported by Vinifera Imports. —M.L. Castello del Terriccio 2005 Tassi- 91 Orchidea (Toscana); $39. Orchidea 91 naia (Toscana); $40. Here’s a beauti- is a 50-50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Mer- Podere Sapaio 2008 Volpolo (Bol- ful super Tuscan blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and lot that shows loads of ripe fruit, blackberry, cas- 92 gheri); $50. This rich and opulent Cabernet Sauvignon available at a moderately sis, chocolate and leather. Pair this wine with osso blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit reasonable price. The Castello del Terriccio buco. Imported by Joshua Tree Imports. —M.L. Verdot delivers an intense bouquet of chocolate, estate overlooks the sea in Coastal Tuscany and cherry, blackberry, spice, nutmeg and polished presents aromas of well ripened fruit and plenty Guicciardini Strozzi 2008 Ocra stone. The wine ends with firm, biting tannins of background smoke and tobacco. Imported by 91 (Bolgheri); $NA. Ocra is a luscious and and flavors of chocolate essence. Give it three to Kobrand. —M.L. opulent blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon,

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 Cabernet Franc and Syrah (aged 12 months in and Petit Verdot that delivers rock solid structure powerful blast of church incense, dried roses, barrique) that shows loads of cherry, blackberry and intensely dark aromas of blackberry pie, rum spice, scented candle, blackberry and mature and plum nuances. You’ll also feel soft spice, cake, plum, prune, clove, leather, cola, and pipe black cherry. The tannins are firm and textured, leather and tobacco folded within the rich, tobacco. You’ll need to pair this wine with succu- so give this wine another three to five years of creamy texture. Imported by Domaine Select lent beef to break up those tight tannins. cellar aging. Imported by Ionia Atlantic. —M.L. Wine Estates. —M.L. Imported by Wine Emporium. —M.L. Capezzana 2005 Trefiano I Luoghi 2007 Campo al Fico (Bol- Tenuta San Giorgio 2006 Caccia- 90 (Carmignano); $35. The ruby-colored 91 gheri Superiore); $NA. Campo al 91 cone (Toscana); $40. Here’s a fabu- Trefiano is a bright and aromatic wine with fresh Fico (“field of figs”) is a rich, ripe 80-20 blend of lous 50-50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and notes of forest fruit, raspberry, violet and rose Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc that opens with a Syrah that offers black, thick consistency and petal. The wine is mostly Sangiovese with smaller dark, inky color and generous aromas of cherry, meaty aromas of cured beef, peppercorn, smoke, percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo blackberry, slate roof and polished stone. There tobacco and loads of luscious dark berry fruit. It’s that add structure and fruitiness respectively. are some light brown shades at the rim of its ruby a soft, velvety wine with a plush, soft finish. Imported by Moët Hennessy USA. —M.L. core, and the wine is soft, sweet and supple on Imported by Blavod Extreme Spirits. —M.L. the close. —M.L. Castello di Poppiano 2006 Tri- Tenuta San Guido 2008 Guidal- 90 corno (Toscana); $45. Sangiovese, La Pineta 2008 Donne Fittipaldi 91 berto (Toscana); $45. Guidalberto (a Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are blended 91 (Bolgheri); $NA. Here’s an impressive 60-40 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) beautifully to produce a wine that shows bright new wine from Bolgheri with an inky, dense opens with dense, inky concentration and fresh fruit flavors, integrated acidity, fine tannins and a appearance and concentrated aromas of black tones of forest fruit and wild blackberry. The wine soft cherry finale. It’s almost as if you can taste fruit, spice, leather, tar and licorice. The wine is bright and silky with a fresh cherry fade: Pair it the basic component of each variety used in this shows depth and personality, capped by a velvety with spezzatino di manzo (classic beef stew). super Tuscan expression. Imported by Classic texture and long, fruit-driven persistency. —M.L. Imported by Kobrand. —M.L. Wine Imports, Inc. —M.L.

Marchesi Antinori 2008 Guado al Terre del Marchesato 2007 Il Eucaliptus 2008 Clarice (Bolgheri); 91 Tasso Il Bruciato (Bolgheri); $32. 91 Tarabuso (Toscana); $NA. Il 90 $NA. Here’s a small producer with a This is a lovely wine (a blend of Cabernet Sauvi- Tarabuso is a rich and spicy expression of Caber- vineyard and bed & breakfast in coastal Tuscany gnon, Merlot, Syrah and other grapes) that shows net Sauvignon (blended with 10% Syrah for extra that proves to be a promising newcomer. This 60- very attractive softness in the mouth backed by a spice and softness on the finish) that would pair 40 blend of Cabernet and Syrah (aged in cement velvety texture and fine tannins. Black fruit, with a hearty plate of grilled sausage and white tanks and barrique) shows dark, inky notes of tobacco, spice and leather accent the bouquet: beans. Aromas here include black fruit, spice, black fruit and graphite. The fruit is succulent, Pair it with black truffle Cornish hen. Imported cola and sweet cherry. Imported by Small Vine- rich and the wine shows a big, bold style. —M.L. by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L. yards LLC. —M.L. Fattoria di Grignano 2005 Salicaria Michele Satta 2008 Red (Bolgheri); Villa Vignamaggio 2006 Obses- 90 (Toscana); $80. This 60-40 super Tus- 91 $NA. This beautiful wine boasts impres- 91 sion (Toscana); $65. It makes a can blend of Sangiovese and Merlot offers a sive harmony and balance between its fruit, spice, smooth impression on the palate thanks to its nat- smooth and clean quality of berry fruit, cassis and tannic and acidic elements. The blend is Caber- ural intensity, it’s fruit flavors and spicy close. raspberry. You’ll also recognize spice, leather, net Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Merlot and the This 60-20-20 super Tuscan blend of Merlot, tobacco and soft chocolate fudge on the close. bouquet is redolent of cherry, blackberry, cinna- Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah would make a Imported by Colline d’Italia. —M.L. mon and leather. Very nice. Imported by Banville great companion to braised beef with porcini & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. mushroom sauce and wild rice. Imported by Bed- Grattamacco 2008 Red (Bolgheri); ford International. —M.L. 90 $38. This is a Cabernet Sauvignon-based Pratesi 2006 Vigna di Carmio Ris- blend with Cabernet Franc, Merlot and San- 91 erva (Carmignano); $25. This well Argentiera 2007 Villa Donoratico giovese that shows wonderful aromas of cherry toned Riserva Tuscan blend (70% Sangiovese with 90 (Bolgheri); $25. This opulent and rea- and blueberry. The wine is soft, tight and fresh: It Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) offers bright sonably priced blend of Cabernets Sauvignon and would make a perfect companion to braised lamb berry nuances and loads of spicy, smokey personal- Franc is enhanced by a soft Merlot component. A shanks with a hint or rosemary and mint. ity. Aromas here include pressed flower, cured sweet, rich wine with pretty aromatic highlights Imported by Bedford International. —M.L. meat and polished stone: The mouthfeel is smooth, of mature fruit and spice. Imported by Eurobiz silky and lively. Imported by Winebow. —M.L. Inc. —M.L. I Balzini 2006 White Label (Colli 90 della Toscana Centrale); $36. This Tassi 2006 Aquabona (Toscana); Campo alla Sughera 2008 Adèo elegant blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvi- 91 $40. Here’s an inky colored and deeply 90 (Bolgheri); $NA. This 50-50 blend of gnon shows the best of both varieties. Aromas concentrated 50-50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot opens with a include red berry, violets, wet earth, spice,

WineMag.com | 53 BUYING I GUIDE tobacco and leather. The wine is soft and endur- blueberry and sweet exotic spice. In the back- Máté 2006 Albatro (Toscana); $NA. ing in the mouth with polished, smooth tannins. ground are integrated notes of clove and ginger 89 Here’s a fresh and lively super Tuscan Imported by Siena Imports. —M.L. and the wine shows both acidity and good struc- blend that would make a fantastic companion to ture. Imported by Admiral Imports. —M.L. roasted lasagna with ground beef and hearty Il Poggione 2006 Mazzoni tomato sauce. The wine is soft, velvety and layered 90 (Toscana); $20. This new, well priced Caccia al Piano 1868 2008 Ruith with mature aromas of red berry, spice, leather and wine represents a partnership between the 89 Hora (Bolgheri); $NA. Delivers a rich tobacco. Imported by Vinilandia USA. —M.L. Franceschi family in Montalcino, Tuscany and Ter- and food friendly blend of Merlot, Cabernet lato in Napa. The rich blend sees Sangiovese paired Sauvignon and Syrah. The wine is loaded with Mazzei 2008 Serrata Belguardo (Maremma); $20. with Merlot and the wine offers very nice density cherry and black fruit with a rich, but not over 89 Here’s a fresh and and purity of fruit, spice and floral aromas. cheerful Sangiovese-based wine that shows bright extracted personality. —M.L. Imported by Terlato Wines International. —M.L. berry tones and soft spice nuances. It proves a very Campo al Mare 2007 Baia al Vento food-friendly wine that would pair with pasta, light La Colombina 2006 Palpito (San- meat dishes or rolled pork roast. Imported by Palm (Bolgheri Superiore); $NA. Baia al t’Antimo); $14. Sangiovese, Merlot and 89 Bay International. —M.L. 90 Vento (windy bay) is a mostly Merlot-based wine Cabernet Sauvignon are the base of this well con- (with tiny percentages of Cabernet Franc and centrated and ripe super Tuscan blend. Aromas of Tenuta I Greppi 2008 Greppicante Petit Verdot) with big, ripe, chewy fruit at its cherry, raspberry, blueberry and hints of clove, 89 (Bolgheri); $29. Greppicante is an smoke and cured meat make for a beautiful bou- core. The aromas include sweet cherry, jammy oaky, spicy blend of Cab Sauvignon, Merlot and quet. The mouthfeel is equally smooth and com- blackberry and cured meat. —M.L. Cab Franc with loads of black fruit, asphalt, tar, plex. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. Best licorice, natural rubber and concentrated cherry. Buy. —M.L. Casa di Terra 2009 Moreccio (Bol- The wine is bold and chewy in the mouth with 89 gheri); $NA. Despite its very young firm, succulent tannins that will soften with time. Le Macchiole 2008 Red (Bolgheri); age, this bright 30-30-40 blend of Syrah, Merlot Imported by Sherbrooke Cellars. —M.L. 90 $30. Le Macchiole’s Bolgheri Rosso blend and Cabernet Sauvignon shows impressive (Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Sangiovese) sophistication and personality. Neutral oak is used Terre del Marchesato 2008 Emilio delivers an honest, but rich bouquet of black fruit, to fine-tune the spice aromas and the wine shows 89 Primo (Toscana); $NA. Emilio Primo coffee, spice and chocolate shadings. The oak used intense flavors of blackberry, cherry, leather and (a pretty blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot here is two and three years old but has shaped a pipe tobacco. Imported by Vino Veritas. —M.L. and Syrah) opens with fresh fruit tones and dry- soft, velvety mouthfeel nonetheless. Imported by ing mineral, backed by sweet spice and toasted Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. Castello del Trebbio 2005 Pazzesco almond. In the mouth, the wine is direct and 89 (Toscana); $33. Pazzesco, or crazy in sharp with piquant freshness on the close. Massi di Mandorlaia 2006 Colpet- Italian, is a lively blend of Merlot and Syrah that Imported by Small Vineyards LLC. —M.L. 90 roso (Toscana); $49. Fifty percent offers rich tones of smoked meat, ripe berry, Cabernet Sauvignon is enhanced by Merlot and white pepper and soft cherry. There’s soft thick- Antonino Tringali-Casanuova 2006 Petit Verdot to produce a dark and compelling ness in the mouth and the wine boasts a very rich 88 Renzo (Bolgheri Superiore); $50. super Tuscan blend with structure, lively fruit and and succulent texture. Imported by Total Wine Renzo is an 80-20 Cabernet Sauvignon and Mer- long lasting flavors of cherry and exotic spice. Pair & More. —M.L. lot blend with loads of jammy fruit and inner sun- this wine with veal encrusted with finely chopped shine. Prunes, raisins and ripe berry fruit open pistachio nuts. Imported by Classic Wine Imports, Donna Olimpia 1898 2008 Tageto the bouquet and are followed by chewy soft spice Inc. —M.L. and moist pipe tobacco. The fruity fade ends on a (Toscana); $NA. Tageto is a Bordeaux 89 slightly sweet note. Imported by Premium blend from Coastal Tuscany that will appeal to Podere Guado al Melo 2008 Brands. —M.L. Guado al Melo Rosso (Bolgheri); those who like an element of soft, chewy sweet- 90 ness in their wines. It’s bold and big on the palate $26. This very special property in Bolgheri Argentiera 2008 Poggio ai Ginepri with enduring persistency and layers of sweet includes one of Italy’s most important experimen- 88 (Bolgheri); $18. Poggio ai Ginepri (a tal vineyards. Among the various wines made strawberry, cinnamon and nutmeg. Imported by luscious blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and here, this super Tuscan blend opens with plush Sapphire Brands. —M.L. Merlot that is aged 50-50 in stainless steel and oak) berry and spice notes as well as leather, roasted shows fresh fruit characteristics of blackberry, almond and ground clove. Imported by Private Iris Ferrari 2008 Red (Bolgheri); cherry and plum. There are spice and tobacco Reserve. —M.L. 89 $NA. This massive blend of Merlot, notes but they are distant and well dosed. This is a Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot is packed great food wine to pair with any beef, veal or pork Tenuta Villa Trasqua 2006 Trasgaia tight with cinnamon, clove and Christmas spice dish. Imported by Eurobiz Inc. —M.L. 90 (Toscana); $50. Here’s a modern and lavished over a solid core of blackberry and plum. plump blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvi- The wine shows a ripe, jammy finish with a long, Bocelli 2005 Poggioncino gnon that opens with a blast of fresh blackberry, fruity fade. Imported by Old Bridge Inc. —M.L. 88 (Toscana); $25. Here’s a ruby-colored

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 blend made with grapes that are native to Tus- blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc that opens are hints of chopped herb and mint in there as well. cany and central Italy that shows bright berry with intense aromas of black fruit, spice, tobacco Imported by Private Reserve. —M.L. nuances followed by almond skin, herbs, pressed and smooth black chocolate. In the mouth, this flowers and cherry cola. There is good balance wine offers richness and a silky, long finish. Poggio Verrano 2007 Poggio Ver- here between the wine’s bright acidity and its Imported by Acid Inc. Selections. —M.L. 88 rano 3 (Toscana); $22. Here’s a new, finely textured tannins. Imported by Small Vine- cheerful wine from the folks at Poggio Verrano in yards LLC. —M.L. Fornacelle 2008 Zizzolo (Bolgheri); southern Tuscany that offers loads of ripe berry 88 $NA. This oaky blend of Merlot (60%) fruit, cherry, cassis, spice, leather and rum cake. Campo al Mare 2008 Red (Bol- and Cabernet Sauvignon (40%) sees 10 months of The wine is smooth and soft. Imported by Tutto 88 gheri); $33. The Campo al Mare Bol- barrique for extra intense notes of spice, cinna- Vino. —M.L. gheri Rosso (a blend of Merlot, Cabernets mon, clove and general woodshop. There is black Sauvignon and Franc and Petit Verdot) shows no fruit, cola and blackberry pie as well, but the wine Tenuta di Trecciano 2006 Daniello limpidity whatsoever. The wine is massively thick, needs a few more years of aging to find balance. 88 (Toscana); $18. This is a very likable black, inky and jackhammer intense. There are Imported by Tuscany Import. —M.L. and easy-to-drink blend of Sangiovese and Caber- no subtleties here, no reading between the lines: net Sauvignon that moves over the palate with Aromas of wet earth, blackberry and cured beef Giorgio Meletti Cavallari 2008 bright fruit intensity and silky tannins. The wine are flowed by thick tannins and a sweet berry 88 Borgeri (Bolgheri); $NA. Equal parts is fresh and would pair well with a heaping plate fade. Imported by Kobrand. —M.L. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are rounded off of sausage and white Tuscan beans. Imported by by 20% Syrah to create a bold, jammy style Bol- Total Wine & More. —M.L. Capezzana 2006 Villa di Capez- gheri Rosso that will appeal to those who like this 88 zana (Carmignano); $25. This wine mature, concentrated style. The wine is chewy Tenuta di Trecciano 2007 I Campacci shows bright berry fruit and some light shades of and thin on the finish with black pepper and spice 88 (Toscana); $14. This well-priced blend smoke and spice that come from careful aging in aromas on the fade. Imported by Specialty Wine of Sangiovese and Merlot sees some oak aging to large oak casks. Pair it with pasta or roast chicken Co. —M.L. round off those bright berry and spice nuances. with rosemary potatoes. Imported by Moët Hen- The overall effect is that of a well-balanced nessy USA. —M.L. Greppi Cupi 2008 Red (Bolgheri); and informal wine that would pair with sausage 88 $NA. This blend of Italian and interna- pizza or hearty pasta. Imported by Total Wine & Casa di Terra 2009 Lenaia Rosso tional grapes opens with buoyant tones of white More. —M.L. 88 (Toscana); $NA. Here’s one of those cherry, cola, tobacco and chopped herb. The wine fresh, bright Italian wines you’ll want to pair with is sharp and defined with a refreshingly crisp Tenuta San Guido 2008 Le Difese home cooked pasta or lasagna. The delivery is close. Imported by Hildago Imports. —M.L. 88 (Toscana); $20. From the makers of direct and fresh with lingering tones of cherry, the celebrated Sassicaia super Tuscan, Le Difese root beer, licorice and sweet forest berry. The Le Grascete 2007 Red (Bolgheri); is a less formal wine at a very attractive price. The mouthfeel is clean, polished and crisp. Imported 88 $NA. This Bolgheri blend of Cabernet blend is Cabernet Sauvignon (70%) and San- by Vino Veritas. —M.L. Sauvignon (60%) and Cabernet Franc offers giovese and the wine shows bright fruit nuances green tones of pepper and chopped spice over with layers of wild berry, mineral and light shad- Cipriana 2007 Scopaio (Bolgheri); natural rubber, bramble and wild berry. The wine ings of spice. It ends with crisp freshness as well. 88 $NA. Scopaio definitely presents a bou- feels tonic and sharp in the mouth and ends with Imported by Kobrand. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. quet marked by jammy fruit. This blend of a twist of sour cherry. Imported by CM Selec- Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and other grapes tions Classic Wine. —M.L. Villa Pillo 2008 Borgoforte offers tones of ripe strawberry, raspberry, cinna- 88 (Toscana); $12. Borgoforte is a well mon and spice. It’s a soft, smooth wine with a Leopoldo I di Toscana 2006 D’U- built and very well priced super Tuscan blend chewy and slightly sweet fruit fade. Imported by 88 nico (Toscana); $31. This super Tus- that would taste great with meatloaf and mashed Blue Star International Imports LLC. —M.L. can blend of Syrah and Merlot opens with lush potatoes. The wine is dense and round in the berry notes and clean aromas of cherry, black- mouth with pretty but simple aromas of wild Cipriana 2008 Red (Bolgheri); $NA. berry and soft Christmas spice. The wine tastes cherry and blueberry. Imported by Pebble Ridge 88 Here’s a young blend of Cabernet Sauvi- rich, satisfying and would make a great match to Wine Estates. Best Buy. —M.L. gnon and Merlot from Coastal Tuscany that shows lamb chops with roasted garlic potatoes. raw, vinous aromas of wild berry, white cherry and Imported by David Vincent Selection. —M.L. Villa Pillo 2009 Cingalino blueberry. There’s a green, brambly quality as well 88 (Toscana); $14. Here’s a cheerful and although the wine does end with a surprisingly soft, Podere Guado al Melo 2006 Jas- bright super Tuscan blend that tastes soft and rich and plush mouthfeel. Imported by Blue Star 88 sarte (Toscana); $32. Jassarte is a note- dense in the mouth and offers impressive inten- International Imports LLC. —M.L. worthy, and somewhat experimental, blend of more sity and elegance for this everyday, low price. The than 20 Mediterranean and Caucasian grape vari- velvety finish is accented by flavors of ripe cherry Duemani 2006 Altrovino eties with a dark ruby color and pretty aromas of and raspberry tart. Imported by Pebble Ridge 88 (Toscana); $40. Altrovino is a 50-50 blackberry, spice, toasted almond and plum. There Wine Estates. —M.L.

WineMag.com | 55 BUYING I GUIDE

Antonino Tringali-Casanuova 2008 zesty pepper and green spice. Aromatically speak- nuances of cherry and raspberry and a touch of 87 Patrimonio (Bolgheri); $29. This 60- ing, the Cabernet component seems strongest. distant spice and smoke on the fade. Imported 40 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot There’s bright blackberry and cherry in the by Siema LLC. —M.L. opens with jammy aromas of cherry marmalade mouth with a touch of natural rubber. Imported and blackberry preserves. The fruit tones are very by CM Selections Classic Wine. —M.L. I Veroni 2008 Terre del Pelacane intense but the spice nuances are integrated and 86 (Colli della Toscana Centrale); $20. folded within the natural density of the mouth- Le Tre Stelle 2006 Red (Toscana); Here’s an easy and straightforward super Tuscan feel. Imported by Premium Brands. —M.L. 87 $NA. A pure expression of Ciliegiolo (a blend that would pair with lasagna or white meat native grape of central Italy), this bright ruby dishes such as roast pork or chicken. The wine Batzella 2009 Digià (Bolgheri); $NA. wine delivers crisp tones of cassis, white cherry shows good freshness with loads of black fruit, 87 The wine is redolent of bright blueberry and raspberry. It’s a clean, easy wine that would spice, tobacco and crushed black pepper. and cherry with a tonic, youthful berry feel in the pair well with cheesy pasta or risotto. Imported Imported by Bazzini Wine Merchants. —M.L. mouth. This easy blend of Cabernet Sauvignon by Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. (60%), Syrah and Cabernet Franc would make the Piandibugnano 2007 Cuccaia perfect companion to pizza or pasta. Imported by J. Leopoldo I di Toscana 2007 D’Aria 86 (Montecucco); $16. A 60-40 blend of Cambier Import Inc. —M.L. 87 (Toscana); $24. Simple and straightfor- Sangiovese and Merlot, this easy-drinking and ward, this 50-40-10 blend of Cabernet Franc, affordable wine offers a nice ensemble of cherry, Capezzana 2007 Red (Barco Reale Merlot and Petit Verdot delivers black concen- cassis, spice and leather. Pair this wine with pasta di Carmignano); $15. 87 Bright, ruby- tration and slightly sweet aromas of mature fruit alla norma (short pasta with fried eggplant and colored Sangiovese is enhanced by Cabernet and blackberry. The wine tastes smooth and rich, salty ricotta cheese). Imported by Domenico but also remains very approachable and friendly. Sauvignon and Canaiolo to produce an easy- Selections. —M.L. drinking, informal expression from Tuscany. In Imported by David Vincent Selection. —M.L. the mouth, this pretty wine has a compact, tonic Scopetani 2007 Nemus (Toscana); feel and there’s enough natural acidity to cut Mocali 2007 Mirus (Maremma); $14. Nemus pairs the light fruit and through cheese-filled ravioli. Imported by Moët $25. The blend is 50% Sangiovese with 86 87 crisp acidity of Sangiovese against the hearty Hennessy USA. —M.L. Merlot, Syrah and Alicante, and the final result is firmness of Cabernet Sauvignon to produce an that of richness, plushness and all around berry informal, food-friendly wine that would match Castello di Poppiano 2007 Tosco intensity. The fade is soft, slightly sweet and driven pasta dishes and pizza with fresh mozzarella. Forte (Toscana); $21. Sangiovese with by easy berry flavors. Would make a fabulous com- 87 Imported by Bravo . —M.L. 10% Syrah presents a united front of berry, spice, panion to pasta and meat roast type dishes. toast and cola nuances. The wine has substance Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. Teruzzi & Puthod 2006 Peperino and good acidity that would pair seamlessly with (Toscana); $15. Peperino is an infor- pork roll, pasta with sausage and tomato sauce or Bocelli 2007 Le Franette (Toscana); 86 mal blend of Sangiovese and Merlot with bright, cheese-filled ravioli. Imported by Classic Wine $18. Here’s an easygoing red blend 86 clean berry nuances and mild shadings of spice Imports, Inc. —M.L. made with grapes that are native to Tuscany. The biggest component is Sangiovese and indeed you and herb. There’s a Mediterranean quality to this Collemassari 2008 Rigoleto (Mon- can taste flavors of wild berry, cherry, wet earth, wine that helps it pair with most Italian, Greek or 87 tecucco); $18. Montecucco is a won- violet and white mushroom. The mouthfeel is Spanish meat dishes. Imported by Palm Bay derful, largely unexplored wine territory in coastal cool, crisp and informal. Imported by Small Vine- International. —M.L. Tuscan that makes some of Italy’s best super Tus- yards LLC. —M.L. can blends. This expression sees 70% Sangiovese Tommasi 2008 Poggio al Tufo with Ciliegiolo (for bright berry flavors) and Mon- Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2007 86 Rompicollo (Maremma); $15. This tepulciano (for darkness and structure). The 86 Red (Toscana); $13. Mostly San- informal and light super Tuscan blend of San- results show balance and loads of easy berry fruit. giovese with smaller percentages of Merlot, giovese and Cabernet Sauvignon would make a Imported by Bedford International. —M.L. Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, this informal cheerful companion to spaghetti with Bolognese wine offers freshness and simplicity. You’ll recog- sauce or veal involtini stuffed with bread crumbs, I Luoghi 2007 Podere Ritorti (Bol- nize balanced aromas of red fruit, spice, leather parsley and pecorino cheese. The wine shows 87 gheri); $NA. Here’s a sour and astrin- and a touch of chewy pipe tobacco. Imported by fruit intensity and enough natural acidity to cut gent expression of Cabernets Sauvignon and Indigenous Selections. —M.L. through those dishes. Imported by Rolar. —M.L. Franc, Merlot and Syrah that opens with sharp black fruit and Indian spice. The fruit flavors are Fattoria Scopone 2006 Il Gregori- Badia a Coltibuono 2008 Cancelli jammy and rich on the close. —M.L. 86 ano (Sant’Antimo); $12. Here’s an 85 (Toscana); $10. Badia a Coltibuono’s easy Sangiovese-based wine (with a small per- Cancelli is an informal, well-priced and handy lit- Le Grascete 2008 Grale (Bolgheri); cent of Petit Verdot for extra darkness and color) tle wine to stock for easy meals at home with fam- 87 $NA. This 70-20-10 blend of Syrah, that would pair wonderfully with stay-home ily and friends. The simple bouquet is redolent of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot shows loads of pizza or pasta. The wine offers bright berry cherry and mild spice and the mouthfeel is tonic

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 and bright. Imported by Dalla Terra Winery peach, green fruit and mineral. The wine is fresh offers pristine aromas of white flower, honey- Direct. Best Buy. —M.L. and compact with loads of citrus on the close. suckle, peach blossom and a touch of crushed Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —M.L. white pepper. The wine is smooth and silky on Bellini 2008 VYD (Toscana); $10. the close and shows a sunny Tuscan personality. 85 This is a very informal and easygoing red Rocca di Montemassi 2008 Calasole Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. table wine that would taste great with pizza. It 87 Vermentino (Maremma); $15. Cala- opens with a bright ruby color and shows aromas of sole has a very nice, silky feel in the mouth followed Banfi 2009 Centine Blanco cherry, raspberry and toasted almond. Imported by by ripe aromas of peach, honeydew and pear. 86 (Toscana); $11. Centine is an easy, Total Wine & More. Best Buy. —M.L. Thanks to Vermentino’s natural structure, this is a well-priced white wine from Tuscany with pretty very food-friendly wine that could pair with pasta or aromas of citrus and stone fruit backed by drying Leopoldo I di Toscana 2007 D’Echo white meat. Imported by Zonin USA. —M.L. mineral tones and fresh acidity. The wine would 85 (Toscana); $16. Cabernet Sauvignon make a perfect companion to light dishes like and Merlot are aged in large oak casks to pro- Terre del Marchesato 2008 Emilio tuna salad. Imported by Banfi Vintners. Best duce a balanced relationship between the wine’s 87 Primo Vermentino (Toscana); $15. Buy. —M.L. fruit and spice-driven components. It’s an infor- Here’s a simple, fresh Vermentino (in a screw cap mal and easy-drinking wine that would pair with bottle) that shows lively tones of yellow fruit, kiwi roast beef or honey-glazed ham. Imported by and a touch of freshly cut grass. The wine is tonic, PORTUGAL David Vincent Selection. —M.L. crisp and keeps the palate clean. Screw cap. Imported by Small Vineyards LLC. —M.L. FORTIFIED WINES I Veroni 2008 Red (Colli della 84 Toscana Centrale); $11. A simple Tommasi 2008 Poggio al Tufo Ver- PORT wine with a crisp and clean mouthfeel. There are 86 mentino (Maremma); $15. This plenty of bright fruit aromas to keep your inter- fresh Vermentino from Maremma delivers green Quinta do Noval 2008 Vintage est. Try this wine with Margherita pizza or easy fruit ones, exotic and passion fruits. Imported by 92 Port; $100. Although 2008 was not a pasta with tomato sauce. Imported by Bazzini Rolar. —M.L. general vintage, some estates have released vin- Wine Merchants. —M.L. tage Ports. Noval’s Vintage, just bottled at the Villa Poggio Salvi 2008 Ver- time of tasting, is a delicate and perfumed wine, I Veroni 2007 Red (Colli della 85 mentino (Toscana); $15. The wine is elegant rather than powerful, with delicious black 84 Toscana Centrale); $10. This easy- crisp, easy and keeps the palate refreshed. Light berry fruits to go with the rich core of sweet tan- drinking blend of Sangiovese and Merlot delivers and fresh, this luminous Vermentino would pair nins. Imported by Vintus LLC. —R.V. loads of fresh fruit backed by aromas of cherry, cas- with rucola and tomato bruschetta or mixed sis and white almond. The mouthfeel is simple, seafood appetizers. Imported by Shaw-Ross Quinta da Romaneira 2006 Vin- clean and keeps the palate refreshed. Imported by International Importers. —M.L. 91 tage Port; $NA. A smooth, yet tex- Bazzini Wine Merchants. —M.L. tured Port, with sweet berry fruits layered with tannins that promise aging. The wine has ele- OTHER WHITE WINES gance, perfumed with violets and ripe berries, TUSCANY balanced with some drier acidity and structure. Botti in Balzi 2007 Blanco The best vintage from Romaneira so far. WHITE WINES 87 (Toscana); $NA. This oak-aged blend Imported by Quinta da Romaneira. —R.V. of , Colombana and Malvasia Bianca VERMENTINO opens with a golden hay color and aromas of Ramos-Pinto NV 20-Year-Old Tawny white flower, peach, citrus, almond and mineral. 91 Port; $66. Nuts, sweet figs and spice Terre del Marchesato 2007 Papeo It has both structure and refreshing crispness on come together in this delicious wine. It has great 90 Vermentino (Tuscany); $30. This is an the finish. —M.L. freshness as well as the concentrated wood charac- impressive, oak-aged expression of Vermentino in a ter of a 20-year-old. A great final balance. Imported world that usually sees this variety fermented in a Tenuta di Burchino 2008 Il Burchino by Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. simple, fresh manner. This wine has a bigger ideal 87 (Toscana); $14. This fresh blend of in mind: To be an important Italian white and it Trebbiano and Vermentino from the hills outside Borges NV Roncão 20-Year-Old achieves its objective beautifully. Pair it with lobster Pisa offers pretty aromas of green fruit, kiwi, melon, 90 Tawny Port; $NA. A great, concen- or white meat. Imported by Small Vineyards LLC. cut grass and passion fruit. This is a crisp and fresh trated wine, rich, with a burnt almond character Editors’ Choice. —M.L. with a sharp, determined close. Imported by Biagio and delicious acidity. It keeps some freshness Cru & Estate Wines, LLC. —M.L. while showing a fine sense of maturity. Imported Prelius 2008 Vermentino by Saraiva Enterprises. —R.V. 87 (Maremma); $17. Prelius is run by Badia a Coltibuono 2009 Trappo- Castello di Volpaia’s Federica Mascheroni Stianti 86 line (Toscana); $15. This cheerful 60- Quinta do Passadouro 2005 Late and this light Vermentino offers tight tones of 40 blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc 89 Bottled Vintage Port; $NA. A fine

WineMag.com | 57 BUYING I GUIDE and impressively complex wine, rich, packed with jano); $90. Beautifully rich and smooth, with ered acidity and a firm structure. Age for 3–4 sultanas and dark chocolate. Very firm, this is mint and new wood aromas, and fresh spice. All years. Imported by Artisan Vines Distributing. worth aging but drinkable now. —R.V. this goes with intense, serious structure, black Cellar Selection. —R.V. fruits and concentrated tannins. The wine is a Ramos-Pinto NV Quinta da Erva- powerhouse of intensity, with a great medium- Herdade do Rocim 2007 Grande 89 moira 10-Year-Old Tawny Port; term aging capacity (5–8 years). Imported by 90 Rocim Reserva (Alentejano); $90. $41. A fine balance between the nuttiness of Quintessential Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Both the high alcohol and the heavy bottle detract aged tawny and ripe sweet fruit makes an attrac- from what is a rich but balanced wine. It shows tive, mellow yet tangy wine. The sweetness is Luis Duarte 2008 Rapariga da great concentration, dense texture, a powerful given liveliness by the final acidity. Imported by 94 Quinta Reserva (Alentejano); $23. statement of the ripe fruit of the Alentejo. It’s hard Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. His skills show in this rich, powerful, finely bal- to seeing it aging much more than two years. anced wine. It has layers of black berry fruits, Imported by Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. Borges NV Soalheira 10-Year-Old damsons, bitter chocolate and a good core of acid- 87 Tawny Port; $NA. A properly fruity ity. Give this impressive wine 3–4 years. Imported Monte do Pintor 2007 Escultor 10-year-old tawny, balancing ripe fruit against by Laurel Importers. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 90 (Alentejano); $89. A wine only made fine, nutty character. It is fresh, on the sweet side, in the best years, this is rich, softly textured, opu- keeping a good layer of acidity. Imported by Vin- Quinta do Quetzal 2007 Reserva lent and ripe wine. It is a powerful statement of tage Trading LLC. —R.V. 94 (Alentejano); $38. Wine Enthusiast’s sweet plums, arabica coffee, dark tannins, 2009 Winemaker of the Year, Rui Reguinga, immense rich concentration. Imported by Lau- Broadbent NV Lot 1 Auction named Portugal’s Winemaker of the Year in 2009, rel Importers. —R.V. 87 Reserve Port; $27. Celebrating the produces this sumptuous wine. The fruit is rich, first lot—Port—in the first auction held by with jammy berries and plums, balanced with Azamor 2005 Tinto (Alentejano); Michael Broadbent in 1966, this is a reserve style spice from wood aging. The core of tannins sug- 89 $19. A curious blend of local grapes with wine, rich and soft with chocolate and ripe berry gests a powerful wine that will age well. Imported Syrah and Merlot has produced a bold, ripe wine. flavors to go with the sweet texture. There is just by Laurel Importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V. The tannins are soft, surrounded by juicy plum and a final edge of stalkiness. Imported by Broadbent damson flavors and a broad, ripe texture. Imported Selections, Inc. —R.V. Luis Duarte 2008 Rubrica (Alente- by South American Import Company. —R.V. 92 jano); $34. Smooth-textured wine, the Quinta do Passadouro NV Ruby layer of firm tannins enveloped by rich, sweet Herdade do Rocim 2008 Olho de 86 Reserva Port; $NA. Aged five years berry fruits. The wine is complex, powered by 89 Mocho Reserva (Alentejano); $32. in cask, this has a dry edge with a light poise to it. concentrated fruit, juicy acidity, a core of wood Powerful and rich, this wine dominates with its It has a good, sweet raisin character, on the dry and tannin. Age for at least three years. Imported concentrated dusty tannins. It shows big sweet side. —R.V. by Laurel Importers. —R.V. black currant and plum fruits, with dark tannins offset with a layer of fresh acidity. Imported by Borges NV White Port; $NA. A Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2007 Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. 85 sweet style of white Port, its nut and 91 Tinto da Anfora (Alentejano); $13. honey flavors dominant. It has good balance A beautifully smooth, opulent, wood-aged wine, Monte do Pintor 2007 Reserva though, a delicious apéritif wine. Imported by with a great depth of ripe fruit, spice, vanilla, 89 (Alentejano); $45. Chewy tannins Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. fresh herbs and concentrated tannins. Good aging presage a firm, ageworthy wine. At this stage, it is potential. Drink now. Imported by Admiral all bitter chocolate and extraction, the fruit not Ramos-Pinto NV Collector Reserva Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. evident. Dark, brooding, feeling heavy, this needs 85 Port; $22. Tasting young, with a stalky many years for the tannins to soften Imported by edge, this reserve Port shows black fruits, very Luis Duarte 2008 Rapariga da Laurel Importers. —R.V. berry in character. It is structured, on the dry 91 Quinta Colheita Seleccionada side. Imported by Maisons Marques & Domaines (Alentejano); $14. A bone-dry wine, powered Parras Vinhos 2007 Terra Grande USA. —R.V. by its dense tannins. The fruit is under this 89 Reserva (Alentejano); $13. Smooth brooding exterior, spicy berries and a dusty tex- and silky, ripe stone fruit flavors are comple- ture. Acidity and a juicy character emerge slowly, mented by a flexible structure that gives shape to PORTUGAL with a final pure blackberry freshness. Imported the juicy character. A light edge of wood and fine by Laurel Importers. Best Buy. —R.V. acidity complete the balance. Imported by Grape RED TABLE WINES Moments. —R.V. Monte da Ravasquera 2007 Vinha ALENTEJO 91 das Româs (Alentejano); $41. Pow- Herdade da Malhadinha Nova erful and concentrated, this is a serious wine, rich 88 2009 Monte de Peceguina (Alen- Herdade da Malhadinha Nova in plum and damson fruits. It is sumptuous, its tejano); $30. Youthful wine, full of rich berry 94 2008 Malhadinha Tinto (Alente- tannins folded into sweet, juicy black fruits, lay- and black plum flavors. It is concentrated while

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 bursting with exuberant fruits, balanced with added a light touch of spice. Imported by Laurel acidity. This is a true second wine of Malhadinha Importers. —R.V. BAIRRADA Nova, ready to drink now. Imported by Quintes- sential Wines. —R.V. Parras Vinhos 2007 Pèra Doce Caves Primavera 2005 Primavera Special Selection (Bairrada); $14. 86 Reserva (Alentejano); $13. Juicy, 88 Luis Duarte 2008 Monte do Carra- Lean and taut tannins play with the sweet spice of elegant fruit is supported by firm tannins and a patelo (Alentejano); $18. A bright, this concentrated wine. It has a dry, dark core, 88 vivid texture. Refreshing acidity from black cur- berry-flavored wine, acidity showing well against edged with acidity, followed by fresh red-berry rant flavors, structured by wood and spice, fin- the firm, dry tannins. It has freshness from juicy flavors. The final juiciness—even after five fruit, with a lingering, vivid aftertaste. Imported ishing bright and fresh. Imported by Grape years—is considerable. Imported by Wine Enter- by Laurel Importers. —R.V. Moments. —R.V. prises LLC. —R.V.

Wines & Winemakers 2006 Grou Parras Vinhos 2008 Montaria Caves Primavera 2008 Primavera 88 Grey (Alentejano); $27. This wine is 85 (Alentejano); $9. A hearty, red-fruited 87 Reserva (Bairrada); $7. Big, ripe and certainly a powerful statement: smooth, super-rich, wine with soft tannins, licorice and a fresh, juicy spicy, with tobacco and herbal flavors alongside the black currant intensity and powerful acidity. It tarry black berry fruits, spice and a sizable serving character. This is a soft wine, attractively bal- is rich while the austere tannins of the Baga grape of wood vanilla. A wine to admire, not to enjoy. anced, the warm Alentejo sunshine filling the Imported by Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. are still young. Keep for 2–3 years. Imported by glass. Imported by Grape Moments. —R.V. Wine Enterprises LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. Herdade do Rocim 2007 Rocim Parras Vinhos 2008 Montaria Wines & Winemakers 2006 Azul (Alentejano); $18. This is a big, spicy 87 Reserva (Alentejano); $13. A wine Portugal (Bairrada); $10. Earthy, wine, its dark berry fruits balanced with ginger, 85 85 that starts almost too soft, the structure only spicy aromas are followed by a chunky wine, tast- acidity and wood. It has power and good concen- ing of tough clay and limestone soils. Dark black tration, leaving a rich, jammy aftertaste. Imported slowly coming through. The fruit is pleasant, currant fruits and layers of acidity, give an austere by Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. wood and bitter chocolate, tobacco and spice, but the wine lacks definition. Imported by Grape final flavor. Imported by Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. Monte da Ravasquera 2008 Tinto Moments. —R.V. 87 (Alentejano); $18. Big, chunky and ripe, with earthy aromas followed by soft, round Parras Vinhos 2009 Terra Grande DÃO texture. Spice and black berry fruit juice are sup- 85 Colheita (Alentejano); $9. A soft, ported by dry tannins. It is bold, a little rough juicy wine, one-dimensional but attractive in its Vinha Paz 2007 Reserva (Dão); around the edges. Imported by Artisan Vines Dis- strawberry fruits. There are pleasant tannins to $35. A wonderful, rich wine, fermented tributing. —R.V. 94 give just enough weight. Imported by Grape in open stone lagars, giving a concentrated, beau- tifully soft wine. The texture is dense and velvety; Monte do Pintor 2007 Tinto (Alen- Moments. —R.V. ripe black fruits are given further complexity by tejano); $25. A full, rather indistinct 87 Vale da Mina 2008 Tinto (Alente- wood aging. A superb wine, powerful and ele- wine that shows plums and damson flavors under Editors’ 85 jano); $14. Spicy fresh berry fruit, with a gant. Imported by Laurel Importers. a layer of tough tannins. The sweeter fruit flavors Choice. —R.V. come through slowly, and the pepper alcohol great burst of ripe plum juice, along with acidity. edge never goes away. Imported by Laurel This is rich, although easy and medium-bodied. Quinta do Serrado 2007 Picos do Importers. —R.V. Drink now. Imported by Laurel Importers. —R.V. 92 Couto Reserva (Dão); $11. With an initial smooth texture, this is a rich wine. The Quinta do Quetzal 2008 Parras Vinhos 2008 Pèra Doce ripe fruit hides the firm, dense structure, packed 87 Guadalupe (Alentejano); $14. 84 (Alentejano); $9. Attractive red fruits with dry tannins and wood spice. The wine is Raspberry, red cherries and fresh fruit come and a good juicy character alongside soft tannins. powerful in a serious way, needing several years’ together with bright acidity and a soft, full tex- This is an easy wine, ready to drink now. Imported aging. Imported by Wine Enterprises LLC. Best ture. There is a good stalky, tannic core to give by Grape Moments. —R.V. Buy. —R.V. structure. A great barbecue wine. Imported by Laurel Importers. —R.V. Quinta do Serrado 2007 Serrado Vale da Mina 2007 Reserva (Alen- Colheita (Dão); $7. A darkly tannic tejano); $22. Farmyard aromas follow 90 Monte do Pintor 2007 Pequeno 84 wine, very mineral, tasting of the granite Dão 86 Pintor (Alentejano); $19. Fresh through to a firmly dry, darkly tannic wine with soil. The wine is taut, fresh with black currants, berry fruits, with stalky tannins and a fine juicy bitter licorice flavors. It has spice from wood, but its structure a major element. For aging 3–4 acidity give an easy, soft and ripe wine. Short a rustic character dominates. Imported by Laurel years. Imported by Wine Enterprises LLC. Best wood aging has softened the bursting fruit and Importers. —R.V. Buy. —R.V.

WineMag.com | 59 BUYING I GUIDE

Vinha Paz 2008 Colheita (Dão); vors and bold acidity. Worth aging for 1–2 years. berry fruits and dry tannin core. The aftertaste 90 $19. The structure is the thing here, a Imported by Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. continues freshness. Imported by Dionysos square, firmly tannic wine. The dry core of this Imports Inc. —R.V. impressive wine spreads out to the dark plum DFJ Vinhos 2008 Grand’Arte Ali- skin and loganberry flavors, solid and finely 90 cante Bouschet (Lisboa); $13. Almost Parras Vinhos 2008 Castelo do angled. Imported by Laurel Importers. —R.V. black in color, this is a concentrated powerhouse of 88 Sulco Reserva (Lisboa); $10. A pow- black plum, damsons and dark berry fruits. It is erful blend of Touriga Nacional, Syrah and Wines & Winemakers 2008 Azul explosively rich and densely structured, with Aragonez, rich and mellow, sweet fruits tempered 90 Portugal (Dão); $10. Classic tannic intense juicy fruit. Imported by Dionysos Imports by tight tannins and spice. The wine has a fine, Dão Touriga Nacional, packed with minerality, dark Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. juicy aftertaste to enhance the freshness. and dry tannins, firm and with a good juicy final Imported by Grape Moments. Best Buy. —R.V. character. Part of a range of wines from across the Quinta de Sant’Anna 2006 country under the name Azul Portugal. Imported 90 Reserva (Lisboa); $44. There is dense Quinta de Sant’Anna 2008 Tinto by Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. chocolate and sweet berry flavors in this still 88 (Lisboa); $24. Firmly tannic, solid and young wine, its complex density still working its dry wine, its balanced fruit fits well with acidity, Parras Vinhos 2007 Evidência way through the solid fruit flavors and richness. It spicy wood and a dense core of dry structure. 88 (Dão); $10. A spicy, berry-dominated is powerful, yet still elegant. Imported by Laurel Developing well, but age for 2–3 years. Imported wine, rustic edging to dusty tannins and a strong Importers. —R.V. by Laurel Importers. —R.V. mineral character. There is a strong acid element giving great freshness to this fine value wine. DFJ Vinhos 2008 DFJ Caladoc/Ali- DFJ Vinhos 2008 Pedras do Monte Imported by Grape Moments. —R.V. 89 cante Bouschet (Lisboa); $13. 86 Cabernet Sauvignon-Tinta Roriz Winemaker José Neiva delights in unusual blends (Lisboa); $8. An elegant wine, the tannins a such as this particular combination which should core element in the firm structure. Acidity and LISBOA be tried more often. It is a big rich wine, packed black currant flavors go together with spice. It is with ripe flavors, plums, dark chocolate, rich a young wine, ready to drink, but will develop. DFJ Vinhos 2007 Grand’Arte Spe- sweet berries and firm tannins. Imported by Imported by Dionysos Imports Inc. Best 92 cial Selection Touriga Nacional Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. Buy. —R.V. (Lisboa); $15. An impressive and elegant wine. It has a delicious line of juicy red and black berry DFJ Vinhos 2008 Grand’Arte Shi- Parras Vinhos 2008 Castelo do fruits, powered with a fine balance of acidity and 89 raz (Lisboa); $13. A big textured, 86 Sulco Colheita (Lisboa); $7. Elegant, firm, chunky tannins. With good potential, give smooth wine, sweet fruits with firm tannins fin- fresh wine, full of delicious red berry fruits, a fruit the wine 3–4 years. Imported by Dionysos ished with dark perfumes. It is a blockbuster, salad of red and black plums and a light touch of Imports Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. thankfully without high alcohol, balanced in its spice. Bright, juicy, ready to drink. Imported by richness. A barbecue wine, ready to drink now. Grape Moments. —R.V. DFJ Vinhos 2008 Grand’Arte Imported by Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. 91 Touriga Nacional (Lisboa); $13. An DFJ Vinhos 2007 Portada Tinto (Lis- elegant red, with power, acidity and black berry Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2008 84 boa); $7. Fresh, herbal and stalky, a light- flavors curling around a structured core of dark 88 Quinta dos Loridos (Lisboa); $16. bodied red wine that has some well-balanced tannins. This is cool Touriga, very poised, worth A firmly structured blend of Castelão and Merlot, residual sugar to go with the red berry fruits. The aging for two years, with a delicious spicy after- rich and dense in texture. Spice, red berry fruits soft texture masks the acidity. Screw cap. Imported taste. Imported by Dionysos Imports Inc. Best and plums mingle with good fresh acidity in an by Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. Buy. —R.V. attractive, sturdy wine. Imported by Admiral Imports. —R.V. DFJ Vinhos 2008 DFJ Tinta Roriz- Quinta de Sant’Anna 2007 Baron 83 Merlot (Lisboa); $13. Curious stalky 91 Gustav von Fürstenberg (Lisboa); DFJ Vinhos 2008 DFJ Pinot Noir- fruit aromas don’t translate well in this rather lean $47. The wine is powerful and concentrated but 88 Alfrocheiro (Lisboa); $13. Here in wine. It has black currant fruits, light tannins, also beautifully elegant, its richness balanced with the maritime climate north of Lisbon, Alfrocheiro prominent acidity, but lacks balanced density. acidity, damsons and a layer of dark chocolate. works well to produce a rich, smooth and velvet Imported by Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. Age this fine wine for 3–4 years. Imported by textured wine, with a beautiful layer of acidity Laurel Importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V. over the wood. Imported by Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. RIBATEJO DFJ Vinhos 2008 Grand’Arte 90 Alfrocheiro (Lisboa); $13. Powerful, DFJ Vinhos 2008 DFJ Touriga Caves Velhas 2007 Cabeça de Toiro concentrated wine, whose tannins fold well 88 Nacional-Touriga Franca (Lisboa); 92 Reserva (Ribatejo); $17. Impressive, around the berry fruits, acidity and sweet plum $13. An attractive, fresh wine, the tannins and ripe wine, the acidity and black fruits meld together juice flavors. It is solid and chunky, full of ripe fla- bright acidity giving a firm support to the lively in a harmonious whole. It has fresh fruit as well as

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 dark tannins, wood aging giving a rounded feel to Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2007 dark aromas and an intense concentration. the texture. Age for two years. Imported by Admi- 88 JP Private Selection Castelão Imported by Lusitano Wine Imports. —R.V. ral Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. (Setubal); $12. Cranberry and mulberry fruits, sweet and soft and just so juicy. This is a lively Wines & Winemakers 2009 Azul Wines & Winemakers 2008 Azul wine with hints of rose hip and the freshest 86 Portugal Castelão (Palmela); $10. 91 Portugal (Ribatejo); $10. A very soft- fruit—even after three years. The aftertaste is Soft, fruity wine from the Castelão grape grown textured wine with delicious jammy fruits that soft, hinting at wood. Imported by Admiral in sandy vineyards, this is smooth and ripe, with a give spice and juiciness. It has a rich feel to it, vel- Imports. —R.V. good edge of acidity. The wine has great vet in the mouth, while the acidity adds just the berry fruits, just a touch of tannin, ready to right amount of freshness. Imported by Iberia Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2009 drink now. Imported by Iberia Wine & Spirits Wine & Spirits LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. 86 JP Azeitão Tinto (Península de LLC. —R.V. Setúbal); $9. Smooth, red-fruited wine with a Quinta da Ribeirinha 2007 Vale de fine balance between fresh berry acidity and ripe DFJ Vinhos 2008 Esplanada 80 Lobos (Ribatejo); $12. Raw, rustic tannins. The wine is young, fresh, ready to drink. 84 (Algarve); $11. A bizarre blend of the wine, its tannins hardened by excessive acidity. It Imported by Admiral Imports. —R.V. hybrid Negra Mole and Trincadeira. The is soft, just about works as a rough and ready red. rather heavy in texture, rich plum flavors, lacking Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2009 Imported by Seaman’s Importers. —R.V. acidity. Imported by Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. 85 Serras de Azeitão (Península de Setúbal); $10. Attractive fruits with a good, juicy Caves Bonifacio 2008 Património SETÚBAL flavor characterize this easy, fresh wine. Black berry 83 (Lisboa); $16. Soft, ripe wine with flavors and vivid acidity make it ready to drink now. some attractive red berry fruits, touches of mint Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2007 Imported by Admiral Imports. —R.V. and leather tannic edge. Imported by HGC Palácio da Bacalhôa (Península de 94 Imports. —R.V. Setúbal); $49. A selection from the Quinta da DFJ Vinhos 2008 Pedras do Monte Bacalhôa vineyard, this sumptuous wine layers 85 Castelão (Península de Setúbal); $8. the darkest fruit flavors with a structure that is Attractive spicy wine from Setúbal region’s signa- ROSÉ sold, dense and powerful. Juicy plums, licorice ture grape. Ginger, berries and light wood work and a firm, stalky edge go with wood aging and well together to give richness without weight. Quinta de Sant’Anna 2009 Rosé bone-dry tannins. Age for 5–6 years. Imported by Imported by Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. (Lisboa); $18. Crisp, bright, straw- Admiral Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 86 berry-flavored wine that has some weight and Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2008 TEJO spice to it. It shows ripe fruit as well as vivid acid- 93 Quinta da Bacalhôa Cabernet ity, freshly balanced with red currant aftertaste. Sauvignon (Península de Setúbal); $30. Wines & Winemakers 2008 Cata- Imported by Laurel Importers. —R.V. This Cabernet-based wine is supremely elegant. pereiro (Tejo); $11. This rich, deli- 87 Casa do Valle 2009 Rosé (Vinho It brings together new wood flavors, firm and dry cious blend of Castelão and is Verde); $10. The rosé Cabernet tannins and powerful concentration. It soft and juicy, with black and blue berry flavors, 85 has great depth of flavor; very complex, the acid- dusty tannins and a fine, jammy aftertaste. style takes advantage of the high acidity of the ity promising good aging. Imported by Admiral Imported by Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. red grapes in the region. Casa do Valle’s rosé is Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. bone dry, with an intense level of acidity, rasp- Wines & Winemakers 2008 berry juice, crisp and fresh. Imported by Triage Herdade da Comporta 2007 Tinto 87 Samora (Tejo); $11. Ripe and juicy, Wines. Best Buy. —R.V. 90 (Península de Setúbal); $16. On the maybe a little rustic round the edges, certainly Atlantic coast, south of Lisbon, the Herdade da fruity. Red berry flavors dominate along with an DFJ Vinhos 2009 Portada Rosé Comporta style is rich, soft wines, generous in edgy center of tannin, while juicy acidity com- 85 (Lisboa); $7. Fresh and fruity, with their warm tannins. The 2007 shows ripe fruit, pletes this attractive wine. Imported by Wines attractive pink coloring, this light rosé has rasp- figs, chocolate and plum flavors and dense tex- Without Borders. —R.V. berry flavors, a touch of sweetness and caramel. It ture. Imported by Lusitano Wine Imports. —R.V. finishes bright and crisp. Imported by Dionysos Imports, Inc. —R.V. Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2007 OTHER RED WINES 89 Só Syrah (Península de Setúbal); Herdade do Rocim 2008 Olho de $30. A step up from the 2006 vintage, rich and Herdade da Comporta 2005 83 Mocho Rosé (Alentejano); $18. A smooth, very perfumed. The tannins are soft, bal- 92 Aragonez-Alicante Bouschet (Terras fat, rich rosé, full of ripe berry fruits, caramel and ancing well with the acidity, layer of wood spice do Sado); $21. A big and densely textured wine spice. It misses out on freshness, and the alcohol and the ebullient red berry fruits. Imported by that shows great rich swathes of bitter chocolate, does give a burn. Imported by Iberia Wine & Admiral Imports. —R.V. dark tannins and sweet acidity. The wine has power, Spirits LLC. —R.V.

WineMag.com | 61 BUYING I GUIDE

Wines & Winemakers 2009 PORTUGAL VINHO VERDE 88 Clemen Reserva (Vinho Verde); $12. Fragrant and fresh, this is a great bright, WHITE WINES Quinta do Ameal 2009 Escolha crisp Vinho Verde. The acidity is intense, bal- 92 Loureiro (Minho); $25. This is a rarity anced with an elegant softer texture. It just cries SETUBAL —wood-aged Vinho Verde. It works beautifully, the out for seafood. Imported by Iberia Wine & Spir- floral flavors of the Loureiro grape balanced with a its LLC. —R.V. Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2009 smooth texture. The green fruit flavors dominate, 91 Catarina (Península de Setúbal); just broadened by the wood. Imported by Ibanez Solar de Pinheiro 2009 Azal (Vinho Verde); $12. $12. Rich, smooth, with great wafts of creami- Pleven Offerings. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 87 From 100% Azal grapes, this is a rich style of Vinho Verde, ripe and citric, ness to go with a judicious amount of toast. White Quinta do Ameal 2009 Loureiro touched by minerality. Yeasty aromas go through plum and pear flavors precede a finish with (Vinho Verde); $15. The Loureiro is the palate but don’t detract from the ripe final fruit. impressive concentration and delicious acidity. 90 the grape of the Lima Valley subregion in Vinho Imported by Laurel Importers. Best Buy. —R.V. Best Buy. Imported by Admiral Imports. —R.V. Verde. The texture of the wine is rounded and creamy, although the crisp green fruits give a Borges 2009 AT (Vinho Verde); Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2008 great bright lift to this delicious, fresh wine. 86 $NA. Fresh and crisp, classic dry Vinho 90 Quinta da Bacalhôa Branco (Penín- Imported by Ibanez Pleven Offerings. Best Verde, a blend of Alvarinho and Trajadura, with sula de Setúbal); $24. The Bacalhôa quinta is Buy. —R.V. citrus flavors and a tight texture. Lively and fresh. more famed for its Cabernet-based red. Here Imported by Vintage Trading LLC. —R.V. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc continue the Bor- Wines & Winemakers 2009 deaux connection. A superrich wine, although the 90 Touquinheiras (Vinho Verde); $17. Messias 2009 Santola (Vinho creamy, full texture is beautifully balanced with a From the far north of the Vinho Verde region, the 86 Verde); $7. Soft and creamy, although good layer of citrus. Full-bodied, stylish. Imported rich and creamy wine balances acidity, green plum with just the right Vinho Verde bite, this is a crisp by Admiral Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. and crisp minerality. Aromatic, elegant, fresh. and clean wine, boasting light pear and pink Imported by Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. grapefruit flavors. Off dry and very fresh. Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2008 Imported by Luiz’s Grocery And Liquors. 88 Cova da Ursa Chardonnay (Penín- Casa do Valle 2009 Branco (Vinho Best Buy. —R.V. Verde); $10. Beautifully fresh wine that sula de Setúbal); $20. Ripe, fruity Chardon- 89 also has some weight to it. It is strung on a Caves Aliança 2009 Aliança (Vinho nay, with toast flavors balancing with smooth tightrope of crispness, balanced between white Verde); $7. A medium-dry Vinho apricot and pear juice. The wine is soft, rich and 85 fruits and citrus. There is a great final mineral tex- Verde, this is light and fresh without being quite generous, finishing with a light acidity. Imported ture from the granite soils of the Minho. Imported crisp enough. Well chilled, though, it makes a by Admiral Imports. —R.V. by Triage Wines. Best Buy. —R.V. lively and fresh apéritif. Imported by Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2009 Solar de Pinheiro 2009 Vinho 87 JP Azeitão Branco (Península de 89 Verde; $12. A ripe wine, with white Vinicola do Norte 2009 Rei do Setúbal); $9. A ripe, full-bodied and spicy wine, fruits and a touch of spice. The crisp minerality of 85 Minho (Vinho Verde); $NA. With its defiantly dry, with a tight acid character. Aromatic Vinho Verde is all there, with a satisfyingly tex- definite spritz, this is light, just off-dry Vinho Verde. fruit finish with intense perfumes, so that the tured aftertaste. Imported by Laurel Importers. It has vibrant green fruits, although the yeast char- wine is both rich and fresh. Imported by Admiral Best Buy. —R.V. acter is perhaps too dominant. Imported by Wine Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. Enterprises LLC. —R.V. Borges 2009 Quinta de Simaens Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2009 88 (Vinho Verde); $13. This single vine- Wines & Winemakers 2009 Azul 85 Serras de Azeitão Branco (Penín- yard Vinho Verde is complex and powerful. The 85 Portugal Escolha (Vinho Verde); texture is creamy, rich, with hints of pineapple as $11. Soft and fresh, a wine with delicious sula de Setúbal); $10. Spicy wine, with well as grapefruit. There is an edgy texture, bal- acidity, almonds and pink grapefruit flavors. A Moscatel giving an attractive lychee edge to the anced with the crispest final acidity. Imported by mineral edge comes through to give a vibrant fresh apple skins and citrus. Lively final acidity. Vintage Trading LLC. —R.V. aftertaste. Imported by Iberia Wine & Spirits Imported by Admiral Imports. —R.V. LLC. —R.V. Solar de Pinheiro 2009 Avesso Herdade da Comporta 2009 Branco 88 (Vinho Verde); $12. This estate is right 84 (Península de Setúbal); $16. Ripe in the south of the Vinho Verde. That gives the ALENTEJO pear fruit flavors go with green plums in the wine wine extra weight, with added richness from the that has acidity, but does seem just too hot and Avesso grape. The aftertaste brings in crispness. Quinta do Quetzal 2009 Guadalupe heavy. Imported by Lusitano Wine Imports. —R.V. Imported by Laurel Importers. Best Buy. —R.V. 90 Selection Branco Antão Vaz (Alen-

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 tejano); $20. Soft-textured wine, with an edge of DFJ Vinhos 2009 Portada Branco minerality, this is deliciously rich, while presenting 86 (Lisboa); $7. Light, fresh and crisp, SPAIN plenty of fresh acidity. It is ripe, full in the mouth, typical of bright cool whites of the Lisbon region. an explosion of white and yellow fruits, with a great SPARKLING It has lively, fresh acidity, picked out with lemon burst of acidity. Imported by Laurel Importers. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. and grapefruit flavors. Imported by Dionysos WINES Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. Herdade do Rocim 2009 Olho de CAVA 89 Mocho Reserva Branco (Alente- jano); $25. Wood-aged wine, very rich and opu- OTHER WHITES Segura Viudas NV Reserva lent. It has great layers of spice, guava, sweet 89 Heredad (Cava); $25. Very solid and nectarine, along with a light citrus touch. It feels Poeira 2009 Pó de Poeira Branco sturdy, with aromas of apple, lemon-lime, soda high in alcohol, which is a shame. Imported by cracker and mineral. The palate is fuller and (Duriense); $NA. Rounded and Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. 89 more flavorful than your average cava, with can- smooth, with some Alvarinho in the blend (which died apple, papaya, lime and lemon flavors. Dry, Quinta do Quetzal 2009 explains the regional appellation), giving weight, pithy and hinting at complexity on the finish. 88 Guadalupe Branco (Alentejano); full-bodied richness to go with bright green Imported by Freixenet USA. —M.S. $14. Balanced fresh wine, full of mango, guava fruits. There is just a final touch of wood. and pineapple flavors. It has freshness, bright- Montsarra NV Brut (Cava); $17. Imported by Vinum Wine Importing and ness, along with a refreshing citrus burst. 88 Comes out of the chute with some aggres- Imported by Laurel Importers. —R.V. Distributing LLC. —R.V. sion, but that’s settled by quality apple and grassy aromas. The palate is jumpy and lively, with pleas- Herdade da Malhadinha Nova Quinta do Serrado 2009 Serrado ant, slightly sweet apple and peach flavors. Shows 87 2009 Monte de Peceguina Branco 89 Branco (Dão); $7. A fine balance good refinement, ample layering of flavors and a (Alentejano); $20. A soft and rich wine, spot of minerality. As a whole, this is good cava. between yellow fruit richness, with apricots and lined with fresh pear, bitter almonds, fresh herbs Imported by Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S. peaches, and a crisp, exquisite line of citrus. The and a glint of citrus. It is full bodied, while remaining fresh. Imported by Quintessential wine is rich, while also fresh, a great food white Segura Viudas NV Aria Estate Brut Wines. —R.V. wine. Imported by Wine Enterprises LLC. Best 88 (Cava); $14. Mineral, lime and crisp Buy. —R.V. apple aromas give it a precise, pure nose. And Herdade do Rocim 2009 Rocim that same character exists on the palate and fin- Branco (Alentejano); $17. 86 Rich Caves Primavera 2009 Primavera ish, where white peach, green banana and melon and full-bodied, this white has almond, peach flavors are full and forward. Shows good concen- Branco (Bairrada); $7. A lively crisp and mango flavors. In the mouth, it feels 88 tration and quality for a large-production bubbly rich and concentrated, the acidity slow to reveal wine, flavored with soft pear, green plum at this price. Imported by Freixenet USA. —M.S. itself. Imported by Iberia Wine & Spirits oregano, streaked through with vibrant acidity. LLC. —R.V. It’s light, fresh, ready to drink. Imported by Wine Sonim NV Brut Reserva (Cava); $14. Dusty lemon and cidery aromas are Enterprises LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. 88 solid and draw you in. The palate has a fresh, LISBOA clean feel and lively, tangy flavors of citrus, green Lavradores de Feitoria 2009 Três fruits and green herbs. Zesty, a bit lemony, and Quinta de Sant’Anna 2009 Fernão 88 Bagos Sauvignon (Duriense); $15. nice on the finish. Not a complicated bubbly by 87 Pires Fernão Pires (Lisboa); $22. From Sauvignon Blanc grown in the vineyards of any means. Imported by Aviva Vino. —M.S. Fresh and fruity, laced with citrus, crisp apricot the Mateus palace, this is a classic, herbaceous and a delicious layer of lime juice. Drink now, Cavas Hill NV Artesanía Brut de wine with attractive fresh and grassy acidity. The but the wine will age a year. Imported by Laurel Brut (Cava); $11. Timid but clean as a high altitude fruit is bright and crisp. Imported by 87 Importers. —R.V. whistle on the nose, with apple and vanilla aromas Polaner Selections. —R.V. along with a sprinkling of talcum powder. The Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2008 palate is lively and fresh, with flavors of pineap- 86 Quinta dos Loridos Branco Alvar- Wines & Winemakers 2009 Samora ple, lemon and other tropical hints. Entirely inho (Lisboa); $15. Delicious fresh citrus 86 Branco (Tejo); $11. A rounded wine, pedestrian as cava goes, but 100% clean and flavored wine, bright as a button, lively and crisp. refreshing. Imported by USA Wine West. Best keeping the white fruit character of pears, given Made from Alvarinho, there is a creamy texture Buy. —M.S. vibrancy by a citric grapefruit flavor. Full in the with a mineral element, finishing with green plums and banana flavors. Imported by Admiral mouth, it has a smooth texture, finishing softly. Freixenet NV Cordon Negro Brut Imports. —R.V. Imported by Wine Without Borders. —R.V. 87 (Cava); $12. This is your quintessential

WineMag.com | 63 BUYING I GUIDE simple quaff among brut cavas. It’s clean, lime- Paul Cheneau NV Lady of Spain on the nose. The palate is both foamy and scouring, tinged and soda-like on the nose, with a correct, 87 Brut (Cava); $15. Aromas of apple cider with soda cracker, apple and citrus pith creating no-issues palate that pushes zesty apple along and mild spice get it going in a good direction, and the flavor profile and finish. Shows basic flavors, with sweet papaya, mango and banana flavors. It’s this colorfully packaged cava does pretty well in the normal mouthfeel and scouring acidity. Imported slightly sweet and tropical, but still it holds onto mouth, where the texture is on the soft side and the by Classic Wines, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. its crisp qualities and dryness. No complaints for flavors of apple and orange run a bit sweet. Not the money. Imported by Freixenet USA. Best complex but good, fluffy and yeasty. Imported by Segura Viudas NV Extra Dry Buy. —M.S. Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.S. 86 (Cava); $10. Fresh and full of lime on the nose, and overall this is simple, smooth and Freixenet NV Cordon Rosado Brut Segura Viudas NV Brut Reserva gives you little reason to worry or fuss. The palate (Cava); $10. is smooth, creamy and a little low on acids, thus 87 (Cava); $12. For a rosado cava, this 87 Simple, nice and not trying too hard; this basic brut is graced with nice apple the lemon-lime and melon flavors have a fullness offers nice fruit, balance and complexity. The and citrus aromas. The palate is wet, juicy and clas- that’s sweet and good. Imported by Freixenet nose is pure cherry and raspberry, but in subdued sic, with crisp apple, green herb and melon flavors. USA. Best Buy. —M.S. doses. Meanwhile, it’s zesty, foamy and fresh in Round, clean and just crisp enough. Imported by the mouth, with nectarine, plum, strawberry and Freixenet USA. Best Buy. —M.S. Finca Torremilanos NV Peñalba prickle. Perfectly nice for everyday quaffing. López Brut Nature (Cava); $16. Best Buy. 85 Imported by Freixenet USA. —M.S. Freixenet NV Carta Nevada Brut Unusual in that this cava hails from the Ribera (Cava); $9. Sweet and a little grassy on del Duero region, where red wines are 99.9% of Freixenet NV Elyssia Pinot Noir Brut 86 the nose, with lemon-lime aromas. The palate has the show. For a no-dosage nature, it’s properly 87 (Cava); $18. Aromas of cherry and a solid, regular, friendly feel along with sweet fla- crisp and dry, almost like a liquid version of a soda leather come with burnt earth and smoke, but over- vors of white nectarine, apple juice and tarragon. cracker. There are some holes in the fabric but all the nose is inviting. The palate is solid in feel, Perfectly quaffable, dry in feel despite being overall it’s citrusy, tight and only mildly bitter on with good weight and drive that supports a smoky semisweet, and balanced. For the price, what’s the finish. Imported by Grapes of Spain. —M.S. flavor profile of red berries and controlled bitter- not to like? Imported by Freixenet USA. Best ness. Finishes toasty, with a lick of bitter chocolate. Buy. —M.S. Freixenet NV Spumante (Cava); Imported by Freixenet USA. —M.S. 85 $9. Pale and low on bead, but if you like Freixenet NV Cordon Negro Extra a Moscato-style wine, this isn’t bad at all. The Llopart 2007 Reserva Brut Rosé 86 Dry (Cava); $12. Clean and approach- palate is sweet, fleshy and smooth, with lychee 87 (Cava); $22. This vintage rosado is as able, with lemon-lime aromas leading to an easy, and melon flavors. Lively but easy on the finish, good as always, but a bit lower on the quality lad- mildly crisp palate with lemon, lime and honey- with a final wave of lychee fruit and Malvasia- der than previous years. The color is light pink dew flavors. Sweet in accordance with standard driven sweetness. Unusual but pretty good. and soft on the eye, while the nose suggests brick extra dry guidelines, and also good for apéritifs Imported by Freixenet USA. Best Buy. —M.S. dust and orange peel. Smooth and easygoing, and sparkling cocktails. Imported by Freixenet with sweet, generic flavors of orange and berry. USA. —M.S. Cavas Hill NV Artesanía Brut Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. 82 Rosado (Cava); $13. Reddish in color Loxarel NV Cuvee Henri (Cava); and devoid of a visible bubble bead, this Garnacha- Loxarel NV 999 Brut Rosat (Cava); 86 $15. Apple, spearmint, mixed greens Monastrell cava is lacking in many ways. The nose and citrus carry the bouquet to a firm palate with is grassy and ashy, sort of like a spent cigar, and it’s 87 $15. Good on the nose, with solid rasp- dry papaya, lemon and herb flavors. Finishes with cheesy as well. In the mouth, it’s fairly bland tasting, berry and nectarine aromas. The palate is spunky apple, lemon and bitterness. Very basic and quaf- with generic, semitart flavors and a sharp finish. and alert, with juicy red-cherry, rhubarb and inte- fable, but nothing extraordinary. Imported by Imported by USA Wine West. —M.S. grated spice flavors. It’s mostly a clean, basic, easy- Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. to-drink bubbly, but it’s persistent, harmonious and Freixenet NV Carta Nevada Semi commendable. Pinot Noir with Trepat is the grape Muga NV Casa Conde de Haro 82 Dry (Cava); $9. Gold in color and short mix. Imported by Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. 86 Sparkling Blend (Cava); $27. A bit on bubbles, but heavy on sweetness and residual unusual and confusing, but that’s because it hails sugar. That said, it’s an advertised semidry, so a Paul Cheneau NV Brut Blanc de from the Rioja region. The nose is herbal and certain level of cloy is expected. But this tips too 87 Blancs (Cava); $18. Slightly low on mustardy, with green aromas leading to a cidery far to the sweet side, leaving nothing but refined kick and bubbles for a blanc de blancs, but the palate of apples and spice. There’s also a bit of white sugar, banana and vanilla cream. Not my wine’s mix of green herb, apple, green banana lemon and creaminess to this cava. Hard to cup of tea. Imported by Freixenet USA. —M.S. and melon flavors is good and offers the proper understand but not without its merits. Imported set up to a finish that’s citrusy as can be and only by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. Segura Viudas NV Aria Brut Pinot slightly pithy. Seems a touch flat or it might have 82 Noir (Cava); $14. Strawberry and rated even higher. Imported by Pasternak Wine Sàniger 2007 Brut (Cava); $10. A rhubarb aromas get it going, and frankly that’s Imports. —M.S. 86 neutral cava with white candy and mango about as good as it gets. The mouthfeel is so-so.

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 but the flavors are funky and mealy, with a weedy mas. There’s punch and spritz on the palate as want from this kind of wine. Imported by Parador bitterness that doesn’t serve the wine well. Lacks well as sweet citrus and juicy lime flavors that Selections, LLC. —M.S. purity, focus and persistence. Made from Pinot break up a little as they fan out. Not sure if there’s Noir. Imported by Freixenet USA. —M.S. residual sugar, but the wine tastes a bit sweet. Naia 2009 Ducado de Altan Imported by Winebow. —M.S. 87 Verdejo (Rueda); $13. Lime, citrus and other pungent aromas get it off to a good SPAIN Mar de Frades 2009 Albariño (Rías start, while the palate is wet and fresh, with clean, 88 Baixas); $25. Starts out a little gaseous familiar grapefruit, lime and nectarine flavors. WHITE WINES and sulfuric, but it picks up steam in the mouth, Lighter and less concentrated than Naia, but still where flavors of apricot, citrus and tropical fruits a very good Verdejo for the price. Imported by RÍAS BAIXAS perform a likeable dance. Powerful acidity pushes Aviva Vino. —M.S. it in the right direction, and the finish of lychee, Terras Gauda 2009 O Rosal (Rías passion fruit and nectarine is lasting. Very nice Valdelainos 2009 Verdejo (Rueda); 90 Baixas); $24. White pear, melon and wine but relatively high in price. Imported by 86 $14. Sort of generic and oily on the almond skin aromas are good and correct, while W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.S. nose, with white-fruit aromas that don’t fully reg- the peachy palate has roundness and interesting ister. The palate is both spongy and spritzy, with flavors of orange, lime and nectarine. Crisp, pre- Nora 2007 Nora da Neve Albariño dry, soft flavors of melon and papaya. More fluffy cise and well-glued together, with harmony 88 (Rías Baixas); $29. Stylistically, this is and lush than zesty and precise. Imported by throughout. A textbook food-friendly white that’s at odds with what I feel Albariño should be. That Grapes of Spain. —M.S. more interesting than other Rías Baixas wines said, it’s a well-executed and well-made barrel- due to the addition of Loureira and Caiño Blanco J. & F. Lurton 2009 Hermanos Lur- fermented white with full-force toast and pop- to traditional Albariño. Imported by Aveniu ton Verdejo (Rueda); $13. Smells oily corn aromas followed by a resiny, vanilla-fueled 84 Brands, Inc. —M.S. and a little burnt and acrid, with fleshy flavors of flavor profile that folds in apple, banana and banana, melon and bitter pith. Has some verve but creamy frosting. Still vital and healthy after three As Laxas 2009 Albariño (Rías mostly it’s an average wine with some bitterness and years in bottle. Imported by Aviva Vino. —M.S. 89 Baixas); $18. Nice, clean and vibrant, dry orange peel and pith. Decent but offers nothing with a welcoming set of peach, apricot and citrusy beyond. Imported by Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. Montecillo 2009 Verdemar Albar- aromas. The wine is 100% correct and fresh, with iño (Rías Baixas); $14. Fresh clarity and flavors of apple, peach and green 87 smelling, with notes of green melon, apple, honey grapes. Shows just enough body, acid and pith on SOMONTANO and minerals. It’s more simple than complex, with the finish, but drink now before it starts to fade. crisp apple and orange flavors and then a chunky, Imported by Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. Viñas del Vero 2007 Colección slightly pithy finish. For under $15 this is good, Chardonnay (Somontano); $20. casual Albariño that won’t steer you wrong. 88 Nora 2009 Albariño (Rías Baixas); Yellow in color, with a waxy nose that’s baked, 89 $18. Crisp, clean and minerally on the Imported by Underdog Wine Merchants. —M.S. rich, a bit stalky but also honeyed. The palate is nose, with apple and green-fruit aromas. It has a round, hefty and thick, with full melon and round, smooth feel and flavors of peach, apple peach flavors in front of a plump, woody finish. and citrus that will enliven the palate and aid RUEDA Good as you’re likely to find among Spanish almost any seafood, vegetable or salad. A natural Chardonnay. Imported by San Francisco Wine Naia 2009 Verdejo (Rueda); $15. wine with just enough powdery sweetness to raise Exchange. —M.S. a smile. Imported by Aviva Vino. —M.S. 90 Pure and forward, with minerally aromas of citrus, grapefruit and wet stone. For basic Viñas del Vero 2009 Chardonnay La Val 2009 Finca de Arantei Sin- Verdejo, this is head and shoulders above most; it 86 (Somontano); $15. Waxy on the nose, 88 gle Vineyard Albariño (Rías bursts with fresh orange, grapefruit, green apple with buttercup, creamy yellow-fruit scents and Baixas); $19. Crisp and minerally up front, with and peach, and the finish is pure and long. So white flowers. The palate is wet, racy and a touch aromas of apple, peach and dust. It’s fresh, maybe tasty and super easy to like; a highly recom- like soda, with sweet, candied flavors of peach a touch basic at its core, with flavors of apple mended go-to value white. Imported by Aviva and melon. Plods along with good enough acidity cider, apricot and almond skins. There’s nothing Vino. Best Buy. —M.S. to support the wine’s core sweetness and candied not to like about this Albariño, which is pure, qualities. Imported by San Francisco Wine pithy on the finish, and more than solid in a Valdelapinta 2009 Verdejo Exchange. —M.S. pedestrian, familiar sort of way. Imported by 89 (Rueda); $16. Sappy green apple, Winebow. —M.S. grapefruit and citrus aromas are welcoming and pure, while the palate is soft-edged, citrusy and NAVARRA Lícia 2009 Albariño (Rías Baixas); full or tangerine and melon flavors. A good, hon- 88 $15. Minerality and crispness define the est, clean Verdejo that has sure-fire mass appeal. Castillo de Monjardin 2009 El bouquet, which brings green apple and citrus aro- More solid than special, which is what you should 87 Cerezo Chardonnay (Navarra);

WineMag.com | 65 BUYING I GUIDE

$14. Clean and minerally, with stony aromas nutty pecan, toasted almonds, lemon zest and along with banana and pineapple. The palate is MONTERREI length. A powerful that represents the Palo tight, clean and balanced, with flavors of green Cortado category with aplomb. Imported by Kin- banana, papaya and apple. Finishes pithy and Pazos del Rey 2009 Pazo de Mon- dred Spirits, Inc. —M.S. with a touch of fresh-grated white pepper. A good 90 terrey Godello (Monterrei); $14. but common type of unoaked Chardonnay. Clean, minerally, slightly green in aromatics and Hidalgo NV Marqués de Rodil Imported by Winebow. —M.S. oh so approachable and nice. For an under-$15 89 Especial Palo Cortado (Jerez); $42. white, this Godello from Monterrei excels with Nutty and toasty, with toffee and butter pecan Vega Sindoa 2009 Chardonnay layered flavors of apple, minerals and natural aromas. The palate is wet, light, alert and snappy, (Navarra); $14. 87 For Spanish Chardon- spice. The finish is long and hints at fresh herbs but also angular and citrusy. The acidity here is nay, this is perfectly good and clean. The nose like thyme and tarragon. Potentially superb with key; it pushes dried apricot and tangy flavors brings your basic set of white-fruit, mineral and garlic shrimp or calamari over fresh greens. toward a nutty finish, and overall the wine deliv- fresh herb flavors, while the palate is lively Imported by Aviva Vino. Best Buy. —M.S. ers what a good, higher-end palo cortado should. despite some dry, resiny oak flavor. Even with Imported by Winebow. —M.S. banana, vanilla and creamy flavors, the wine is decidedly not cloying. Imported by Fine Estates VALDEORRAS Gonzalez Byass NV Del Duque From Spain. —M.S. Telmo Rodríguez 2009 Gaba do Xil 87 Amontillado Muy Viejo (Jerez); $45/375 ml. Ochoa 2009 Viura-Chardonnay 89 Godello (Valdeorras); $19. Fragrant, Normally this producer’s high-end 86 (Navarra); $12. Lucid and basically col- clean and tropical, with slate-driven minerality. are outstanding, but this Amontillado is orless, with flowery, lychee-like aromas that sug- The palate is just fleshy enough but mostly it’s aggressive and hard, with a clod-like character gest Malvasia or Moscatel. But it’s only Viura and tight and crisp, with flavors of green apple, fresh that starts with molasses on the nose and then Chardonnay, and it tastes fresh, floral and nice, with green herbs and a drip of honey. Holds it turns toward sharpness and bitterness on the lime and lychee. About as easy as they come. together from front to back; just right for salads palate. Try as I might, this one strikes me as good Imported by Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. and seafood-based tapas. Imported by T.G.I.C. but loud, hard, forceful and lacking the suavity Importers. —M.S. that great Sherries possess. Imported by San Vega Sindoa 2009 Vega Sindoa Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. 84 Viognier-Chardonnay (Navarra); $8. Telmo Rodríguez 2008 Gaba do Xil A bit tan and dull to the eye, with neutral aromas of 88 Godello (Valdeorras); $19. While I Gonzalez Byass NV Viña AB apple cider and peach. The palate is wet, uncompli- prefer the 2009 for its clarity and freshness, this 83 Amontillado Seco (Jerez); $18. cated and simple, with basic apple flavors that some ’08 is no slouching tiger. The nose delivers still- Generally speaking, most Amontillados are good might consider to be bland. Solid on the finish, with fresh apple and mineral aromas, while the flavor at their worst, but for whatever reason this wine papaya for flavor. Imported by Fine Estates From profile leans toward gooseberry, lemon and green barely makes the grade. It lacks pop on the nose Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. melon. Shows some pithy bitterness on the finish, and seems dilute and drab. In the mouth, the fla- so drink right away or seek out the ’09. Imported vors strike as sour and sharp, but also musty and by Vintus LLC. —M.S. BIERZO weak. With so many fine Sherries available, this one seems like a laggard. Imported by San Fran- cisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. Abad Dom Bueno 2009 Godello SHERRY 88 (Bierzo); $18. An opening of apricot and peach aromas is proper, while the palate Williams & Humbert NV Jalifa SPAIN delivers a jolt of zest and acidity to more pineapple, 92 Rare Old Dry Amontillado Aged lime and punchy green-apple flavors. Tangy later 30 Years (Jerez); $70. Golden brown in color, on, with more than a drop of lemon and lime to with smooth, almondy aromas along with apricot, RED WINES the finish. Also slightly pithy and bitter, which is cinnamon and toffee. The palate is full, round, natural for Godello. Imported by Frontier Wine smooth and satisfying, with a fine blend of RIOJA Imports. —M.S. weight, acidity and prime Sherry flavors. Overall Sierra Cantabria 2004 Gran this is a rich, heady style of dry Amontillado that Reserva (Rioja); $39. Luna Beberide 2009 Godello finishes long and secure. Imported by Kindred 91 Meaty, spicy 87 (Bierzo); $22. This winery is known for Spirits, Inc. —M.S. and smooth on the nose, with subtle dryness that red Mencía, but this small-lot Godello is perfectly indicates maturity. The palate is saturated but not nice and drinkable. It has a neutral nose and a fresh Williams & Humbert NV Dos Corta- heavy or chewy, with body and balance that high- palate of green melon, nectarine and apple flavors. 91 dos Rare Old Dry Palo Cortado lights plum, berry, cherry and toasty oak and spice The finish is clipped and a touch bitter, but there’s Aged 20 Years (Jerez); $50. Nice and bronze, flavors. Shows freshness, health, quality and no denying its tangy, forward approach. Only 250 with nutty, potent aromas that are forward and chis- finesse. Drink now through 2014. Imported by cases made. Imported by Grapes of Spain. —M.S. eled. Lively, clipped and zesty in the mouth, with Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 Valserrano 2006 Crianza (Rioja); Dinastía Vivanco 2004 Reserva Ramón Bilbao 2005 Reserva 89 $17. A more traditional type of crianza 87 (Rioja); $25. Dusty earth and dry spice 86 (Rioja); $19. Opens somewhat clipped with vanilla, spice, dry berry fruit and a quiet, sub- aromas blend with some char, vanilla and and choppy, with citrusy aromas mixed with red tle approach. The mouthfeel is Old World with it’s berry/cherry on the nose. The palate shows aver- fruits. The palate is healthy, lean and acidic, with clean, dusty weight and proper acid-tannin balance, age density and depth, with lighter flavors of bright plum and berry flavors softened by some and the flavors of spice, cherry, dried currant and strawberry, raspberry, herbs, tobacco and vanilla. creamy vanilla. A solid wine with punch, acidity earth don’t overstep their place. Very nice wine for Finishes dry and peppery, with some toast. and a good finish. Imported by W.J. Deutsch & under $20. Imported by Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. Imported by Opici Import Company. —M.S. Sons. —M.S.

Bodegas Ondarre 2004 Reserva Marqués de Cáceres 2007 Crianza Vaza 2007 Crianza (Rioja); $15. 88 (Rioja); $18. Smooth on the nose, with a 87 (Rioja); $15. Clear and focused, with 85 Light on the nose, with dilute red-berry aromas and mild leathery, cheesy notes. The pinch of rubber, earth, smoked beef and raspberry and edgy spice aromas to the nose. The palate is kind of raw and lean, with tangy, crisp plum/prune. The palate offers structure, solid acid- palate doesn’t bring a whole bunch of meat or flavors of pie cherry and raspberry. Dry, peppery, ity, zestiness and bright flavors of cherry and rasp- heft, but it is clean, racy and food-friendly. Fla- snappy wine, with definitive crispness. Imported berry. Finishes crisp and tight, with lingering vors of red berries and pepper are normal and by Freixenet USA. —M.S. vanilla. A nice wine for tapas and other meat-based expected, while the finish is dry and lean. dishes. Imported by Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. Imported by Vineyard Brands. —M.S. Campo Viejo 2005 Reserva Tem- pranillo (Rioja); $14. Earthy but Castillo Labastida 2006 Crianza Montecillo 2005 Reserva (Rioja); 84 sharp on the nose, with a foreboding sense of 88 (Rioja); $13. Shy at first, with standard 87 $18. Dry and subtle on the nose, with stem and sourness. The palate is indeed raw and raspberry aromas, earth and buttery notes along cherry and plum fruit scents mixed with balsam acidic, with lean, slightly stemmy flavors of herbs, with cherry and raspberry flavors. Becomes fuller wood. The palate is tight, simple and offers a bit raspberry and plum. Not bad but carries a and more satisfying with time, and once it’s fully of creaminess to go with raspberry and oak-based stemmy, less-than-pure personality. Imported by open you have a solid, satisfying Rioja with true vanilla and mocha. Light on the finish and fresh, Pernod Ricard. —M.S. flavors and good overall balance. Imported by with a medium body. Imported by Underdog Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. Wine Merchants. —M.S. Montecillo 2007 Crianza Tem- 84 pranillo (Rioja); $12. Hot earth, Obalo 2007 Crianza (Rioja); $19. Ramón Bilbao 2007 Limited Edi- baked cherry and mild vanilla aromas come in 88 Dark and fully oaked Rioja with vanilla, 87 tion Tempranillo (Rioja); $17. front of a snappy, angular palate with tangy pie- mocha, char and black-fruit aromas. The body is Dusty, slightly candied aromas are briary and cherry and red-plum flavors. Sheer and basic good while the acidity is a bit high, and thus the pretty good, and overall it’s giving freshness, pop Rioja with high acidity, lean fruit, a cleansing fin- flavors lean toward tart black cherry and zesty and red-fruit flavors touched up by dill, nutmeg ish and a light body. Imported by Underdog Wine wild blackberry all with a robust amount of toast, and vanilla. Clean and lively on the finish, and Merchants. —M.S. spice and charred darkness. Imported by Aviva more than competent as a whole. Imported by Vino. —M.S. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.S. TORO Ramón Bilbao 2006 Crianza Solabal 2005 Reserva Tempranillo Numanthia-Termes, S.L. 2007 Ter- 88 (Rioja); $13. This is a smooth, subdued 87 (Rioja); $26. Starts out with roasted, manthia (Toro); $200. Dark, con- style of Rioja that’s perfect for tapas or casual con- stewy, beefy aromas and not much brightness. 92 densed and inky, with big, muscular aromas of sumption. The nose offers the right kind of entry: The palate is measured and healthy, with dry charcoal, cassis liqueur, blackberry and tar. The cherry and raspberry with dusty spice. And the raspberry, currant and medicinal plum flavors. It palate is just lush enough despite being staunch flavors are friendly and suggest black fruits and shows oak, earth, leather, acidity and some burn. and tannic, and the flavors of black fruit and cas- smoke. A little more oaky and charred than some, In a nutshell, it’s a good, standard, respectable sis are luscious and sweet, with a bit of lemony but a nice crianza nonetheless. Imported by W.J. Rioja that will complement almost any food. oak adding zest. Drink from 2011 through 2015. Deutsch & Sons. Best Buy. —M.S. Imported by Fine Estates from Spain. —M.S. Imported by Moët Hennessy USA. Cellar Selec- tion. —M.S. Bodegas Olarra 2004 Añares Telmo Rodríguez 2006 Lanzaga 87 Reserva (Rioja); $18. Dry and peppery 87 (Rioja); $34. A heavy, slightly strained Numanthia-Termes, S.L. 2007 to start, with muted berry fruit aromas along with wine that has a lot in tow. The nose is smoky, rub- 91 Numanthia (Toro); $60. Stocky, dark wood shavings. The palate is snappy, clean and bery like an inner tube, and a bit herbal. In the and pure, with inky aromas of shoe polish, black juicy, with raspberry, vanilla and tobacco-like fla- mouth, it’s a wide load with sweet, sugary, baked fruits and charcoal. The palate is brawny and tan- vors. More basic than special, with a steady, light- flavors of blackberry, prune, fig and chocolate. nic, with saturated blackberry, espresso and bit- framed finish. More than functional; likely good Very much on the ripe side, with a full tannic ter chocolate flavors. It’s rowdy but also attractive with food. Imported by Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. bite. Imported by Vintus LLC. —M.S. and full of everything good including chocolate,

WineMag.com | 67 BUYING I GUIDE spice and pepper on the finish. Drink from 2011 ness not usually found in $8 wines. Garnacha at through 2015. Imported by Moët Hennessy 70% with 30% Syrah. Imported by Scoperta USA. —M.S. Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. Alidis 2009 Tinto (Ribera del Numanthia-Termes, S.L. 2007 Ter- 85 Duero); $12. Bold, forward and Crucillon 2009 Garnacha (Campo 89 mes (Toro); $30. Floral fruit aromas extracted red wine, with raspberry, earth, compost 87 de Borja); $7. A perfectly solid Gar- suggest blueberry, but overall this vintage lacks and a light leafiness to the nose. Tannic and tight, nacha with pepper, bright red fruit and a touch of the power and depth that Termes and its big with plum and heavy, ripe berry flavors. Toasty and country style to the bouquet despite its pedes- brothers are known for. Airing sets up sweet, dark on the finish too, with power and freshness. trian price. The palate is bright and tastes of plum easygoing berry flavors and full tannins, but in Imported by Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. and red berry, while the feel is good and the fin- the middle it’s less whole than it has been in other ish fruity and lively. What inexpensive red wine Bodegas Qumrán 2009 Roble (Rib- years. A juicy, well-made wine that should not be should be. Imported by Scoperta Importing Co. era del Duero); $15. Floral, earthy, judged as weak just because 2007 was a marginal 84 Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. funky and barnyardy, with all the young exuber- vintage. Drink now through 2013. Imported by ance that comes with joven/roble wines from Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S. Tienen Duende 2009 Garnacha RDD. Lots of color, power, tannins and extract 84 (Campo de Borja); $9. A bit flat and along with young, sweet, chewy black-fruit fla- Bodegas Farina 2009 Dama de jammy on the nose, and then it runs hot and heavy vors and tart acidity to the palate. Imported by Toro (Toro); $11. across the palate, where the flavors waver between 88 Opens with a load Bodegas Qumrán. —M.S. of sweet, candied black-fruit aromas but this citric and plum-cherry. There’s a lot of fruit here, but also some burn and finally a dull hum to the wine excels on the nose because it’s composed Condado de Oriza 2009 Tem- finish. Imported by Winery Exchange. —M.S. and precise for being so young and simple in 83 pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $11. scope. Velvety, rich black-cherry flavors run the Bright and shimmers with purple, while the nose is show, and the finish brings length and an herbal jumpy and candied, with a lot of sweetness and JUMILLA shading. Very nice for a wine from Toro at black fruit. Marginal to tough on the palate, with this price. Imported by Specialty Cellars. Best racy, hard tannins and a clacky feel to go with wild Bodegas Luzon 2005 Alma de Buy. —M.S. berry and mulchy flavors. Tasted twice with consis- Luzon (Jumilla); $40. Ripe, dense and tent notes. Imported by Luneau USA Inc. —M.S. 93 powerful, with on onslaught of raisin, spice, pepper Caño 2009 Tempranillo-Garnacha and leather on the nose. The palate is direct and (Toro); $8. The quality of the 2009 vin- 86 pure, with clean flavors of berry, spice and choco- tage is reflected in this value-priced Toro that’s CAMPO DE BORJA late leading to a long, layered finish. Beautiful wine; full and medicinal but also balanced and reward- one of the best I’ve had from this region. 70% ing. Flavors of medicinal red-berry fruit are Borsao 2009 Red (Campo de Borja); Monastrell with 20% Cabernet and 10% Syrah. mixed with thicker, chocolaty notes, while the fin- $8. A delicious wine and very much the 89 Imported by Aviva Vino. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. ish is bold, grabby and solid. A blend of Tem- model for value in Spanish Garnacha. That this has 25% Tempranillo only seems to make it better; the pranillo and Garnacha. Imported by Luneau USA Bodegas Mähler-Besse 2005 Taja nose is sweet but full and plummy. The palate is Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. Excelecia (Jumilla); $23. pure, flavorful and sweet, with baked cherry, earth- 91 Super smooth and complete on the nose, with black fruit, toasty Bodegas Farina 2009 Spada (Toro); iness and a hint of chocolate. A wine to buy in quantity, i.e. by the case. Imported by Fine Estates oak and earth notes rolled into a nice whole. It’s $13. Heavy, dark, candied and jammy, 85 From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. lush, plump and balanced, with full blackberry, with a hint of licorice to the nose. The palate is raisin, chocolate and spice flavors resting in front of chunky and concentrated, with meaty berry fla- Aletta 2008 Garnacha (Campo de a mellow, spicy finish. A pretty, balanced blend of vors and a dose of chocolate. Short on the finish, Borja); $8. Very smooth with youthful, 75% Tempranillo and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon yet fruity if a bit flat. Imported by Hand Picked 88 juicy, fragrant berry aromas along with a bouncy that shows Jumilla at its best. Imported by Mon- Selections. —M.S. palate full of sweet cherry and cassis flavors. Clean, sieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. snappy, alert and healthy. More simple and straight- Marqués de Olivara 2009 Viñas forward than complex, but worth the money and then Bodegas Luzon 2005 Selección 12 de Olivara (Toro); $9. 84 Lively, candied some. Imported by Aviva Vino. Best Buy. —M.S. 89 Crianza (Jumilla); $15. Starts out rustic and medicinal, with grassy aromas along with and leathery, with hints of smoke, leafiness and mild animal notes. The palate is young, grabby, Coto de Hayas 2009 Garnacha- earth along with baked berry and spice. This four- forceful but solid, while the flavors are bright, 88 Syrah (Campo de Borja); $8. Opens grape wine has good density and mouthfeel that bold, snappy and suggest red plum and black with cherry aromas and brightness, then the frames leather, earth and slightly baked berry fruit cherry. A basic young wine that’s decent if you’re palate fans out and fattens up with juicy plum flavors. Finishes chocolaty and sweet, with just not too discerning. Imported by USA Wine and cherry flavors along with just a touch of med- enough acidity to maintain balance. Imported by West. —M.S. icinality. Toasty, warm and tasty, with a thorough- Aviva Vino. —M.S.

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 Bodegas Mähler-Besse 2005 Taja Marco Real 2006 Crianza Tem- 87 Reserva (Jumilla); $12. A touch VALDEPEÑAS 87 pranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon raisiny and sweet from nose to tail, but what’s in (Navarra); $15. Initially it’s rugged, but airing between is convincing for Jumilla. Aromas of Viña Albali 2009 Tempranillo reveals black-cherry aromas and dry spice. The licorice and herbs are sweet but nice, while the 81 (Valdepeñas); $8. Stemmy and raw palate is crisp and a little sheer by itself, but the flavors or raisin and blackberry are chunky, with a smelling; similar in the mouth. The palate is nar- call here is that with food it’ll be a winner. Flavors basic finish that’s a little flat but definitely ripe. A row and sheer, while the flavors lean toward tart of red fruits are dry and collected, while the finish blend of Monastrell, Cabernet, Tempranillo and red cherry and rhubarb. Peppery and under- blends in coffee, spice and a touch of herbal Merlot that’s ready to drink. Imported by Mon- whelming. Imported by Luneau USA, Inc. —M.S. Navarran panache. Imported by Steve Miles sieur Touton Selection Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. Selections. —M.S.

Casa de la Ermita 2006 Crianza LA MANCHA Castillo de Monjardin 2006 Deyo 82 (Jumilla); $16. A strange bird with 85 Merlot (Navarra); $17. Starts with herbaceous aromas that suggest sage or juniper Montgó 2008 Flor del Montgó distinct, hard aromas of mustard, horseradish and baking in the summer sun. The palate is acidic 87 Tempranillo (La Mancha); $12. A jerky. In the mouth, it’s full, bullish and tannic, and sharp, with green-tinged pie cherry and clean, fresh, appealing sort of Tempranillo with with flavors of bacon, wood resin, smoke and plum skin flavors. Gritty on the finish, with cola, earth, black cherry and berry aromas fol- stewed blackberry. Very smoky and dark, with needling tannins and a final wave of that odd lowed by a bright, forward, spicy cherry palate. hard tannins, and just not as good as past vin- juniper character. 60% Monastell and 40% Honest, snappy, healthy and juicy; nice and solid tages. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. Petit Verdot. Imported by Opici Import for La Mancha. Imported by Regency Wine Company. —M.S. Group. Best Buy. —M.S. OTHER

MONTSANT NAVARRA Viñas del Cenit 2007 Demora Tem- pranillo (Tierra del Viños de Cellers Sant Rafel 2006 Solpost 92 Bodegas Piedemonte 2005 Zamora); $30. Lower in price than Cenit’s Old (Montsant); $25. Warm and smooth, 91 Reserva (Navarra); $15. Interesting Vines, but to me this is a better, more open wine with aromas of fresh dill, spiced cherries, mulled 89 and very much showing Navarran qualities, with bacon, spice and bold black-fruit aromas. earth and more. The palate has a full, stacked feel including aromas of black olive, herbs and mossy The palate is full but retains finesse as well as big with well-oaked flavors of vanilla, toffee and earthy fruit. The palate has good structure, balance and tannins; flavors of black fruits come with choco- berries. Finishes chewy, with complexity and light feel, and thus there’s a nice platform for dry black late, coffee and spice. Full-force stuff but still flavors of caramel and tobacco. Ready to drink. cherry, cassis and mocha flavors. As an ’05 it’s fairly refined. Drink now through 2014. Imported Imported by Parador Selections, LLC. —M.S. evolved, still fresh enough, and ready to go. by Aviva Vino. —M.S. Imported by Balzac Communications. —M.S. EMPORDA Anima Negra 2005 Àn (Vi de la Castillo de Monjardin 2005 Crianza 91 Terra Illes Balears); $53. Mature, Martí Fabra 2005 Selecció Vinyes 88 Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot classy and different than most, with earth, (Navarra); $12. 90 Velles (Emporda); $23. Rooty, warm Brickish in color, with mature tobacco, warm fruit, baked notes and subtlety to and leathery at first, and then it really rounds into aromas of cedar, pine, tobacco, olive and dried the bouquet. The palate is whole, welcoming and form. This Garnacha-led multigrape blend is a fruits. There’s still some racy acidity that’s keeping full of baked plum, spice, molasses and leathery, pretty, earthy, stylish wine that’s at peak maturity. the rooty flavors of tobacco, dried berry, coffee and and then it finish long and complex, but a little It brings baked, rich black cherry, cola and toffee spice moving forward. Finishes dry and a little bit sweet and rooty. A winner from Mallorca for flavors and then a finish of coffee and toast. A bit classic; drink now for an affordable taste of Navarra. those seeking something different. Drink now. syrupy but still excellent and ready now. Imported by Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. Imported by Winebow. —M.S. Imported by Fine Estates from Spain. —M.S. Inurrieta 2007 Norte Cabernet Anima Negra 2007 ÀN/2 (Vi de la Martí Fabra 2005 Masia Carreras 87 Sauvignon-Merlot (Navarra); $15. 90 Terra Illes Balears); $22. Roasted and 89 (Emporda); $42. A different breed of For Navarran Merlot-Cab, Inurrieta Norte is baked on first blush, but then the wine’s complex- blended wine, with earthy aromas of dried always a winner. This vintage has good darkness ity and use of unusual Mallorcan grape varieties cheese, leather, dill and vanilla. The palate is tight along with smooth aromas of black fruit, earth, take over. Along the way there’s flavors and aro- and mildly tannic, with sweet cola, roasted berry rubber and spice. It’s a bit acidic and shrill as a mas of prune, earth, leather, spice and Mediter- and earthy tobacco flavors. Not your normal tasting wine but will do fine at the table. The ranean terroir. It’s also bringing tobacco and leaf bulky, dark wine; it’s complex and based on 85% mouth is spunky and shows slightly herbal rasp- notes to the table. A fun, different wine that goes Garnacha and Carignan. Imported by Fine berry and plum flavors. Finishes light and easy. nicely with tapas. Drink now through 2011–12. Estates from Spain. —M.S. Imported by Vinaio Imports. —M.S. Imported by Winebow. —M.S.

WineMag.com | 69 BUYING I GUIDE

Viñas del Cenit 2007 Cenit Old 90 Vines Tempranillo (Tierra del Viños de Zamora); $48. A tough, sun-belted wine with concentration, big tannins and a ton of power and flavor. The nose is all bacon, balsamic notes, tobacco and roasted black fruit, while the ridged palate is dark and tastes of blackberry, molasses, coconut and brown sugar. Edgy, lemony and tannic on the finish. Drink now with beef; can be held for another 3–5 years. Imported by Aviva Vino. —M.S.

Anima Negra 2006 Àn (Vi de la 89 Terra Illes Balears); $48. Baked, earthy and leathery, just like all the AN wines. But there’s also a smooth intersection of the old and new worlds here; it’s one part rooty, oaky and rich but also dry, leathery and indigenous to the Balearics (the base grape is Callet). Finishes a little sweet and warm, and thus it’s begging to be drunk now. Imported by Winebow. —M.S.

Bodegas Orusco 2009 Viña Main 84 Tempranillo (Vinos de Madrid); $14. A rubbery, minty, jammy wine, with a mildly candied, gummy feel and sweet, modest, lightly green flavors that suggest red fruits. The finish is decent but herbal and sweet. Imported by P.R. Grisley Company. —M.S.

Bodegas Fontana 2008 Mesta 83 Tempranillo (Uclés); $7. Starts out murky, gassy and challenged, and while it does emerge from that cloud it remains little more than bargain-priced, borderline Tempranillo from an obscure central Spain region. The palate shows generic, herbal black fruit and the finish is acceptable. Imported by Winebow. —M.S.

Viña do Val NV Joven (Spain); $6. A 81 fairly unclean wine with leafy cough-drop aromas. The palate is weak and washed out, with stemmy red-fruit flavors. Spiced and leafy on the finish. Imported by Arcadia Imports. —M.S.

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 THE WINE ENTHUSIAST Spirits SPIRITS BUYING GUIDE

The Spirits Buying Guide is a summary of recent detailed evaluations and product ratings of a single ABSINTHE, THE RENEGADE SPIRIT reviewer, Spirits Reviewer Kara Newman. Every tasting note is accompanied by a rating. Also noted are the full name of the product, its alcoholic strength expressed as bsinthe has a long, mysterious history, spirits category yields such a flurry of accessories percent alcohol by volume, the producer’s name, and known for inspiring generations of artists, (elaborate fountains, decorative spoons) and advice: the suggested U.S. retail price. If the price cannot be writers, and other bohemians, particu- Drink it with sugar. Don’t drink it with sugar. Add confirmed, an $NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottle unless otherwise indicated. A larly in Belle Epoque Paris. Some claim ice. Add ice water. Don’t add anything. And my that the “green fairy” causes hallucina- favorite admonition: don’t set absinthe on fire. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS tions, others say it heightens awareness. Here’s how absinthe was tested for review: First, Tastings are conducted individually in a controlled tast- Although neither myth has been proved, in 1912 it was evaluated straight up, since it’s frequently ing environment. Spirits are tasted alone; no formal the U.S. banned absinthe for “protective” meas- used in cocktails that way. Second, ice-cold water reviews are ever conducted in the presence of any pro- ducer or industry representative. Samples are tasted ures. In 2007, absinthe was re-legalized in the U.S., was slowly dripped into the water until the absinthe blind in flights of no more than six to eight products. followed by a flood of imports as well as domestic clouded up, a process called louching. Guthrie Price is not a factor in the evaluation. absinthe start-ups. explains that adding cold water “causes a reaction According to A Taste for Absinthe, a new book that allows essential oils to precipitate out of their ABOUT THE SCORES by absinthe expert R. Winston Guthrie, the “Holy suspension into the high alcohol content, releasing Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accom- panying tasting note to learn about each spirit’s special Trinity of herbs” that gives absinthe its definitive the aromas and flavors that are so appreciated by characteristics. The numerical ratings correspond to flavor is grande absinthe, also known as wormwood, the absintheur.” Check labels for directions; most quality in the following manner: which contributes a bitter note; green anise seed recommend adding three to five parts ice water per Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. (sometimes star anise is substituted); and fennel dose of absinthe. And third, sugar was sometimes Superb 94–97: A great achievement. seed. Most often, American palates identify the added to taste. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. anise/fennel flavors as licorice, even though high- Absinthe also is fine addition to classic cocktails Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; quality absinthes rarely contain licorice. Other such as the Sazerac, the Monkey Gland and the often good value. Corpse Reviver #2. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- herbs and spices also may be added. critical circumstances. What’s the best way to drink absinthe? No other —KARA NEWMAN Spirits receiving a rating below 80 are not reviewed.

Best Buys. Vieux Pontarlier Absinthe Fran- Certain spirits are designated as Spirits earn- grassy notes and the lingering finish is smoothed ing this designation offer a high level of quality in rela- 94 caise Superieure (Distillerie Emile with touch of anise sweetness. Viscous, thick tion to price. There are no specific guidelines or Pernot, France); 65% abv, $62. Beneath the mouthfeel and strong alcohol sting. formulae for determining Best Buys. perky lime-green color and a clean, bright licorice and mentholated lemon scent, this absinthe has Mansinthe by Marilyn Manson SUBMITTING SPIRITS FOR REVIEW (Oliver Matter AG, Switzerland); Spirits should be submitted to the following reviewing soul. Surprisingly deep and musky star anise, 90 location: Kara Newman c/o 36 West 20th St, 3rd Dutch licorice and sarsaparilla flavors fade to a 66.6% abv, $62. Everyone will ask about this Floor, New York, NY, 10011. Inquiries should citrus finish. Lovely with sugar too. A first-rate bottle with the goth-rocker Marilyn Manson be addressed to Spirits Reviewer Kara Newman at choice for an absinthe Frappe. brand. Undiluted, this jade green absinthe has [email protected]. There is no charge for submitting spirits, and Wine Enthusiast will make Good-and-Plenty candy aromas, and mild citrus every effort to sample all spirits submitted for review. Mata Hari Absinthe Bohemian (Fis- and floral flavors that finish with heat and some There is, however, no guarantee that all submissions will 92 cher Schnaps of Wien, Austria); licorice. Adding ice water transforms the scent to be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All 60% abv, $53. A subtle and addictive absinthe, more anise-like, even a touch minty, and brings submissions must be accompanied by a submission form, which may be downloaded from our website. Please be best when louched. The pretty pine-green color out a big, pure licorice finish that lingers on and sure to check the spirits tasting schedule prior to submit- transforms to sea-foam green, and basil and cinna- on like the last notes of a big-finish guitar solo. ting samples. mon notes join the already pleasantly lemony scent. The flavors of the thick, mouth-filling liquid are Pernod Absinthe Superieure LABELS similarly restrained, and adding ice water brings 89 (Pernod Ricard, France) 68% abv, Labels are paid promotions. Producers and their $65. representatives are given the opportunity to submit out a sweet pine note and a touch of aniseed. At first, there’s nothing subtle about this vivid labels, which are reproduced and printed along lime-green liquid. With its bright anise scent and with tasting notes and scores. For information on Pacifique Absinthe Verte (Pacific thick mouth-coating effect, it’s like drinking licorice label purchases, contact Denise Valenza by phone at 91 Distillery LLC, Woodinville, WA, candy. But with ice water, everything changes – it 813.571.1122; by fax at 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. U.S.); 62% abv, $64. Yellow-green color and a cools and become more classically Pernod-like, pronounced citrus/lime and vegetal fennel aroma. with a lighter flavor and texture, and a burst of Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at Initially, this absinthe has a tart flavor, although licorice on the finish. The assertive note would buyingguide.winemag.com adding ice water coaxes out more herbal and

WineMag.com | 71 BUYING I GUIDE stand out well when used to rinse a glass for a drink pure star anise flavor, with an aggressive, tarragon like a Sazerac. finish and a big, mouth-coating feel, which oddly grows even thicker with ice water. The apothe- Leopold Bros. Absinthe Verte cary bottle and label design is fun and appealing, 88 (Leopold Bros., Denver, CO, U.S.); but the cork closure makes it difficult to recap for 65% abv, $70. A clean, straightforward and storage. refreshing absinthe: pale straw yellow-green liquid with a wallop of licorice aroma and flavor and Germain-Robin Absinthe medium body. Adding ice water coaxes out more 86 Superieure (Greenway Distillers, complex lime and cinnamon scents, as well as Ukiah, CA, U.S.); 45% abv, $50/375 ml. lemon, orange and anise notes on the finish. Adding Give this absinthe some time to open up. At first, sugar makes it reminiscent of cinnamon candy. the faintly golden, nearly clear liquid doesn’t taste like much, although it’s highly aromatic with Vieux Carre Absinthe Superieure lemon verbena, pear and fennel. But with time 88 (Philadelphia Distilling, Philadel- (and ice water) the scent takes on floral tones, and phia, PA, U.S.), 60% abv, $58. On the out- the flavor shows burnt lemon peel and anise. side, the gorgeous, gift-worthy bottle with the Pretty Art Nouveau label. Belle Epoque design is a showstopper, but inside, this “100% natural” absinthe just isn’t pretty: it’s a Lucid Absinthe Superieure (Vridian mossy dark green color speckled with unappetiz- 86 Spirits, France); 62% abv, $55. ing bits of dark floating sediment. Adding ice Versatile and cocktail-friendly. This absinthe is rel- water transforms the thick, viscous liquid from hot atively light-bodied, with a pale translucent green and vaguely herbal to a spice-box of flavors: gin- color and an overwhelming licorice-candy scent, ger, cardamom, star anise and clove, with a dry, like a box of Good & Plenty. With ice water, fen- fennel-like finish. nel flavors become more pronounced. Although this isn’t a sweet absinthe, it blended easily and Duplais Swiss Absinthe Verte pleasantly with sugar. 87 (Oliver Matter AG, Switzerland); 68% abv, $68. For those who enjoy fiddling with Duplais Swiss Absinthe Blanche proportions, adding ice water and sugar yields a 84 (Oliver Matter AG, Switzerland); smooth and well-balanced absinthe. Look for a 60% abv, $65. This is an absinthe-hater’s clear forest-green color and warm star anise aroma absinthe. It starts clear and louches to pearly with herbal undertones. Undiluted, the taste is white, and has modest anise on the nose and the slightly bitter, with basil and lemon verbena notes palate, both of which emerge further with ice and a long, drawn-out finish of citrus and licorice water. Medium body and sharp alcohol bite. and a sharp alcohol bite. Adding ice water bright- ens this absinthe, creating a lighter, candy-like fra- grance and an even bigger licorice finish.

Obsello Absinthe Verte ([NO DIS- 87 TILLERY LISTED], Spain); 50% abv, $44. Murky, mossy color, with a touch of cloudy sediment in the liquid, and a funky, herbal, deep anise aroma. This absinthe grows even more aro- matic with the addition of ice water, teasing out floral and citrus notes, and flavors of coriander seed, lemon, anise, plus a faint, pleasingly bitter wormwood note.

St. George Absinthe Verte (St. 87 George Spirits, Alameda, CA, U.S.); 60% abv, $60. This is a funky, herbal, and brawny absinthe. The dark greenish-brown color louches to a swampy dark green. Earthy aromas include lemon balm, tarragon and star anise; louching brings anise to the foreground. There’s

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 BUYING I GUIDE THE WINE ENTHUSIAST Beer BEER BUYING GUIDE

The Beer Buying Guide is a summary of recent detailed evaluations and product ratings of a single STOUTS TO WARM THE SOUL reviewer, Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo. Every tasting note is accompanied by a rating. Also noted are the full name of the product, beer style, here are very few beer enthusiasts who ness from the addition of oats to the mash. alcoholic strength expressed as percent alcohol by don’t enjoy a good stout, especially once The American craft brewers have really taken volume, producer’s name, and the suggested/average the cooler winter months arrive. There’s classically English or Irish style to a whole new U.S. retail price. If price cannot be confirmed, an $NA little to compare the satisfaction a good, extreme, producing a wide array of styles for all (not available) will be printed. Prices are for the bottle T size or packaging indicated. strong stout offers on a chilly day except types of stout lovers. From dry, easy-drinking to maybe a mug of cocoa… but why have cocoa stouts to barrel-aged roasty flavor bombs, the TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS when you can go with beer? The frequently higher amount of creativity and experimentation that Formal evaluation sessions occur in a professional tast- alcohol and intense flavors often provide a fantastic goes into these offerings is nothing short of ing room. Beers are tasted alone; no formal reviews warming sensation, soothing the soul and heating amazing. Hops are frequently used and can vary are ever conducted in the presence of any producer or the body from the inside out. Not to mention, quite in intensity from moderate to high. Imperial industry representative. Samples are tasted blind in simply, they are so delicious. stouts offer a little bit more of everything, flights of no more than six products; the category being reviewed may or may not be divulged. Price is not a There are so many different styles of stouts avail- with increased alcohol (about 7–12% for factor in the evaluation. able that there is most certainly something out Imperial offerings versus 4–8% for non-Imper- there for every palate and preference. They are all ial), a fuller mouth, and, of course, aggressive ABOUT THE SCORES ales and therefore fall on the more flavorful side of hop characteristics. The numerical ratings correspond to quality in the the beer spectrum, but vary in intensity, weight, Though many people think that they are too following manner: alcohol and overall drinkability depending on the strong to pair with food, stouts actually make Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. specific brewer and style. Many consider Russian great choices for hearty fare like smoky barbecue, Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Imperial stouts to be the king of stouts with their grilled game or thick, meaty chili, but can also Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. high abv (usually between 8–12%) and intense malt match gracefully with assorted flavorful cheeses Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recom- profile. Others think that Oatmeal Stouts are the like gouda or havarti. And let’s not forget about mended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; bees knees, with their full body but moderate alco- anything chocolate, for which they are a match often good value. hol (usually between 4–7%) and trademark creami- made in heaven. Prost! —LAUREN BUZZEO Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances. Allagash Black (Belgian Style Stout; Allagash 2010 Fluxus Stout Brewed Allagash Brewing, ME); 7.5% abv, with Cacao Nibs (American Dou- Certain beers are designated as Best Buys. Beers 96 95 earning this designation offer a high level of quality in $8/750 ml. Dark mahogany color in the glass with ble/Imperial Stout; Allagash Brewing, ME); relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or glimmers of garnet when held up to the light. Pours 10.3% abv, $15/750 ml. Devoted to the concept formulae for determining Best Buys. Cellar Selections with a fluffy cream-colored head that stays a long of change, this beer is brewed differently every year are beers that would be good candidates for cellaring. time and leaves gorgeous sticky lacing behind when since 2007 to commemorate Allagash’s anniversary. it finally falls. Cigar box, roasted malt, molasses, pine Aromas of coffee liqueur, sweet wood, cured meat SUBMITTING BEERS FOR REVIEW Beers should be submitted to Wine Enthusiast’s head- tar and sweet spice like clove and nutmeg flood the and roasted malt fill the bouquet. Creamy and full quarters at 333 North Bedford Road, Mt. Kisco, NY nose and palate. The mouth is medium weight, not in the mouth, the stout has moderate carbonation 10549. Inquiries and submissions should be addressed too overpowering, with a strong wave of flavors fol- and loads of roasted character like espresso grinds to Lauren Buzzeo at [email protected]. lowing each swallow. Rich, roasty and immensely and rich cocoa along with black truffle, woody spice There is no charge for submitting beers, and Wine satisfying; also surprisingly easy to drink. Best Buy. and a subtle kick of hop astringency. A slight slick Enthusiast will make every effort to sample all beers submitted for review. There is, however, from the alcohol lingers on the long finish. no guarantee that all submissions will be tasted, Southern Tier Mokah Imperial or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All 96 (American Double/Imperial Stout; Stone Imperial Russian Stout (Russ- submissions must be accompanied by a submission Southern Tier Brewing, NY); 11.0% abv, 95 ian Imperial Stout; Stone Brewing, form, which may be downloaded from our website. $10/22 oz. So enticing and delicious, you could CA); 10.5% abv, $7/22 oz. Pours thick and just stick your nose in a glass of this for hours with a seriously dark with Sumatra coffee aromas coupled LABELS silly grin on your face the whole time. Intense with hop oils, dried dark fruit, clove and anise. Big Labels are paid promotions. Producers and their rep- resentatives are given the opportunity to submit labels, mocha aromas coupled with chocolate ice cream, and round in the mouth with serious resiny hop which are reproduced and printed along soft molasses and French toast transition to more of flavors and a definite alcohol bite it has full weight with tasting notes and scores. For information on label the same in the mouth, which is so insanely creamy with medium carbonation and great intensity. purchases, contact Denise Valenza by phone and fulfilling like carbonated Yoohoo. Roasted Strong espresso and unsweetened cocoa dominate at 813.571.1122; by fax at 866.896.8786; or e-mail cocoa nibs, espresso and Kahlúa flavors add com- the finish, with a glimmer of sweet citrus rind shin- [email protected]. plexity. The finish is endless with a touch of woody ning through on the very end. A great candidate to Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at bitterness and a slight resiny texture. Best Buy. cellar. Best Buy. buyingguide.winemag.com

WineMag.com | 73 BUYING I GUIDE

Southern Tier Oat Imperial Oat- Samuel Smith Oatmeal Stout 94 meal Stout (American Double/ 92 (Oatmeal Stout; Samuel Smith Imperial Stout; Southern Tier Brewing, Old Brewery (Tadcaster), England); 5.0% NY); 11% abv, $10/22 oz. As the label reads, abv, $4/550 ml. Pours an almost opaque dark “Dark as a moonless night.” Smells brooding and brown color with a frothy tan head that persists fairly intense with decadent aromas of rich choco- but leaves prominent lacing. behind The bou- late liqueur, molasses, roasted walnuts and a touch quet is not too intense, with soft aromas of fresh of woody spice. The mouth is full and intense with cream, milk chocolate, caramel sauce and toasted strong roasty flavors backed by a finish of subtle whole grain bread. Medium-full but lively and yet appropriate coffee-driven bitterness. Quite rich refreshing with high effervescence, it is sweet and thick but balanced and complex with strong and chocolaty in the mouth but balanced by a flavors that linger forever. finish tinged with bitter hops. A hint of hickory smoked bacon adds intrigue to the finish. Founders Breakfast Stout (Ameri- 93 can Double/Imperial Stout; Smuttynose Imperial Stout (Russ- Founders Brewing Co., MI); 8.3% abv, 92 ian Imperial Stout; Smuttynose $11/12 oz 4 pack. This is a double chocolate Brewing, NH); 9.8% abv, $7/22 oz. This is coffee oatmeal stout that pours black and with seri- part of Smutty’s Big Beer Series, and it doesn’t dis- ous thickness. But don’t be intimidated: the nose is appoint the line name. Pours black with a medium not as intense as one might assume, with roasted head and an intense Imperial nose of resiny hops malt and chocolate aromas and hints of Riesen and coupled with rich roasted malt, woody spice, raisins brewed coffee. The mouth, on the other hand, is and some alcohol heat. It’s big and intense in the thick and syrupy with a seriously viscous feel, offer- mouth with huge hop flavors that follow through to ing the anticipated heavily roasted flavors and full the finish. After the hops finally subside, black cof- weight. A touch of bitterness livens up the finish fee, bittersweet chocolate squares, pine, cigar and keeps this beast approachable and drinkable. tobacco and spice unfold on the palate. Strong but enjoyable, and a good choice to share with friends. Port Brewing Santa’s Little Helper 93 Imperial Stout (American Alaskan Oatmeal Stout (Oatmeal Double/Imperial Stout; Port Brewing, CA); 89 Stout; Alaskan Brewing Co, AK); 10.0% abv, $12/22 oz. Aged in Bourbon bar- 5.7% abv, $8/6 pack. Opaque black in the glass rels for nine months, this beer is not for the faint of with a small tan head that falls fast. The bouquet is heart. A thick, almost black pour with a small head roasty with notes of cocoa powder, peanut shells promises intensity, and the nose delivers just that and molasses adding depth. The round mouthfeel with rich, boozy aromas of chocolate liqueur, maple keeps it lively with strong carbonation, and the wood, brown butter, dried figs, dates and a touch of licorice root keeps things interesting on the palate. resiny pine. Big and softly carbonated with serious Well balanced and easy to drink with a slightly bit- heft to the roasted malt, caramel sauce, cigar box ter finish of roasted espresso beans soaked in and vanilla ice cream flavors. This is one serious chocolate liqueur. brew that’s definitely something to share with friends. Try cellaring to mellow the intensity a bit.

Samuel Smith’s Imperial Stout 93 (Russian Imperial Stout; Samuel Smith’s Old Brewery (Tadcaster), England); 7.0% abv, $4/550 ml. Black in color with a sub- stantial tan head that leaves gorgeous lacing behind. Nice roasty malt aromas along with some coffee, toasted nuts and unsweetened cocoa powder. Medium weight with moderate carbonation, it’s balanced and easy to drink with the rich roasted flavors and bittersweet chocolate lifted by some cit- rus oils and resiny hops. Quite drinkable and a wel- come, more tempered example of the style when compared to its American cousins. Best Buy.

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010