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Buying Guide BUYING GUIDE Perfect for the holidays—a baker’s dozen of California sparkling wines rated 90 points or higher. 2 | CALIFORNIA 38 | FRANCE 28 | OREGON 46 | ITALY 32 | NEW YORK 57 | PORTUGAL 35 | OTHER U.S. 63 | SPAIN GETTY IMAGES / 35 | AUSTRALIA 71 | SPIRITS 36 | NEW ZEALAND 73 | BEER FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, CLICK ON: WineMag.com PHOTO ANDREW PATERSON WineMag.comWineMag.com | | 1 1 DECEMBERDECEMBER 15, 15, 2010 2010 | |WineMag.com WineMag.com | |89 1 BUYING GUIDE California UNDERSTUDIES NO LONGER or years, California sparkling wines were ously refined wine, but so are the wines from seen as somehow second tier, as the wines Mumm Napa and Chandon. Their parent com- a certain segment of the population panies in Europe can justifiably be proud of their reached for only when the price and California progeny. F Vine Cliff 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon quantity of Champagne needed for an Beside sparklers, Contributing Editor Steve (Oakville); $75. Pretty much as good as occasion exceeded the contents of their pocket- Heimoff reviewed close to 300 other California 98 Napa Cabernet gets. Shows the blackberries, black books. Producers capitalized on the Champagne wines for this issue, including top Pinot Noirs, currants, blueberries and spicy plums of Oakville brand, labeling their wines—with the complicity Cabernets and Syrahs. These warming reds make and scads of spices, and the tannin-acid structure is, of the BATF (now the TTB)—as California for perfect wintertime sipping. Other domestic in a word, superb. The oak elaboration is just about Champagne. Thankfully, those days have largely reviews this month include wines from Oregon, perfect, adding a tasteful layer of smoky, buttered been left behind, as the quality of California’s New York, New Mexico and Virginia. toast. The finish goes on and on. Editors’ Choice. sparkling wines has increased at a seemingly International coverage begins with a smatter- ever-increasing rate. ing of Australian sparkling wines, then moves on Vine Cliff 2007 16 Rows Cabernet The wines now deservedly stand on their own, to New Zealand before heading to Europe for Sauvignon (Oakville); $150. A true and in this issue they take center stage. Although sections on the latest super Tuscans and French, 97 sensation. Shows the richness and concentration many of the names associated with the wines are Portuguese and Spanish releases. Reviews that you want in a great Napa Cab, but also a structure Old World, the wines are anything but, boasting didn’t make it into print may be accessed via our that lifts it above the soft, bold New World fruit allied to skillful winemak- online database at buyingguide.winemag.com. mushy wines that are so ing. Gloria Ferrer’s Carneros Cuvée is a glori- Cheers! — JOE CZERWINSKI prevalent. There’s real feels refined, fancy and elegant, with delicious tannin and acid architec- SPARKLING WINES raspberry, lime and toast flavors. The blend is ture framing the opulent 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay. —S.H. blackberry, black cur- Gloria Ferrer 1999 Carneros rant, mineral and cedar 95 Cuvée (Carneros); $50. This late- Mumm Napa NV Brut Rosé (Napa flavors, and the finish is disgorged wine has been released at the age of 93 Valley); $24. What a roll Mumm Napa dry, dry, dry. Every sip 11 years. It’s a beautiful wine, notable especially is on with their new releases. This blush wine offers something differ- for the ultrafine feeling of the mousse, or bub- shows the level of richness and elegance the win- ent as it changes in the bles. So refined and silky. Rich too are the fla- ery has achieved lately. Made from 85% Pinot glass. A world-class wine that defines elegance, vors, in limes, strawberries, toasty lees and Noir and 15% Chardonnay, it has deliciously for- power and complexity. Should age effortlessly for at minerals. A spectacular sparkling wine that has ward flavors of raspberries, strawberries, ginger- least a decade. many years of development ahead. Editors’ snap cookies and vanilla lemon custard, with the Choice. —S.H. bubbly froth and tart yeastiness of a fine sparkling wine. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Mumm Napa 2002 DVX (Napa 94 Valley); $55. DVX is Mumm Napa’s Mumm Napa 2006 Blanc de top of the line vintage bottling. This ’02 is a 50- 93 Blancs (Napa Valley); $30. Made 50 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, making from 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Gris, this it a brut. It’s very high in acidity, and the bub- lovely Blanc de Blancs brims with vanilla cream, bles are tiny and refined, giving it the ultra- lime and pear aromas and flavors, with the Dutton-Goldfield 2008 Dutton smooth mouthfeel you want in a superior yeasty, baked bread dough toastiness that mark 96 Ranch Rued Vineyard Chardonnay sparkling wine. The raspberry, lime and pear fla- the best sparkling wines. It’s basically dry and (Green Valley); $45. This vineyard has proved vors are rich, but subtle, reined in by yeastiness quite high in acidity, which gives it a brisk, clean itself for so many years that it’s practically a guar- and a tangy minerality. Drink this luxurious bub- finish. Drink this fine bubbly now and for the antee of greatness. This 2008 is a real stunner. It’s bly now and over the next 10 years. Editors’ next 6–8 years. —S.H. so rich and exotic, so balanced and dry, so clean. Choice. —S.H. Dazzles with pear, pineapple, lychee, roasted Chandon NV Étoile Rosé (Napa- hazelnut, crème brûlée, buttered toast, honey and Iron Horse 2005 Ultra Brut 92 Sonoma); $50. With a deep, shiny spice flavors, wrapped into a creamy smooth 93 (Green Valley); $50. This is the dri- color of copper and peach blush, you can tell mouthfeel. Brilliant and compelling. Drink now. est of Iron Horse’s new releases, but it still has a this sparkling wine will be somewhat full-bodied honeyed richness even though the residual and rich. And it is. Made from Chardonnay and sugar is a comparatively low half a percent. It Continued on page 99 2|WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 15, 2010 Hall 2007 Kathryn Hall Cabernet Gloria Ferrer 1999 Carneros Cuvée Vine Cliff 2008 Proprietress Reserve 96 Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $80. One 95 (Carneros); $50. This late-disgorged 95 Chardonnay (Carneros); $60. It’s easy of the richest Cabernets of the vintage. Amazingly wine has been released at the age of 11 years. It’s to get ripe fruit in California and then plaster it in soft and velvety in the mouth, yet there’s a solid grip a beautiful wine, notable especially for the ultra- oak, but what’s so difficult to achieve is the crisp, of acidity and tannins that balance the richness. The fine feeling of the mousse, or bubbles. So refined minerally structure this wine displays. It’s rich in flavors are extraordinary, ranging from blackberry and silky. Rich too are the flavors, in limes, straw- pineapple cream, Key lime pie, Meyer lemon sor- and cherry-pie filling through currant liqueur and berries, toasty lees and minerals. A spectacular bet, golden mango and vanilla oak flavors, but milk chocolate to leather. So decadent now, it’s hard sparkling wine that has many years of develop- achieves balanced elegance with crisp acidity and a to resist, but should develop for 4–6 years. ment ahead. Editors’ Choice. wonderful stony purity. Only 349 cases produced. Mazzei 2007 Castello di Poggio al Tesoro 2007 Dedicato a 95 Fonterutoli Siepi (Toscana); $120. Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2007 96 Walter Cabernet Franc (Toscana); Siepi is a gorgeous super Tuscan blend of San- 94 Palácio da Bacalhôa (Península de $90. An impressive wine from an impressive giovese and Merlot that exhibits richness, inten- Setúbal); $49. A selection from the Quinta da vintage, this Tuscan expression of Cabernet sity and purity. This is a luscious and opulent Bacalhôa vineyard, this sumptuous wine layers Franc opens with opulent fruit notes of black- expression with deep aromas of cherry, black- the darkest fruit flavors with a structure that is berry, prune, plum and ripe cherry backed by berry, chocolate, espresso bean and spice. The sold, dense and powerful. Juicy plums, licorice clove, pepper, leather and cigar box. The tannins finish is super long and delicious. Imported by and a firm, stalky edge go with wood aging and are firm and silky and the fade is long and vel- Palm Bay International. Cellar Selection. bone-dry tannins. Age for 5–6 years. Imported vety. Imported by Winebow. Cellar Selection. by Admiral Imports. Cellar Selection. Dutton-Goldfield 2008 Dutton 95 Ranch Freestone Hill Vineyard Vine Cliff 2007 Pickett Road Vine- Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); $58. 95 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Cecchi 2007 Coevo (Toscana); $58. Extraordinary for how drinkable it is right now, Valley); $150. The most tannic and closed of 94 Cecchi’s Coevo is a wonderful super and for how it will evolve. Shows the crisp acidity Vine Cliff’s magnificent array of ’07 Cabernets. It’s Tuscan blend that costs half as much as the other and minerality of this cool-climate vineyard, with hard, with a bite of acidity, but it doesn’t take cult wines in this elite category. The wine is rich, rich flavors of raspberries, cherry liqueur, cola, much for the richness to explode. Blackberries, opulent, intense and extremely focused in terms exotic spices, vanilla, buttered cinnamon toast black currants, dark chocolate, butterscotch, sweet of its aromatic delivery and the mouthfeel is and smoky sandalwood. Yet the tannic integrity cinnamon spice, the list goes on and on. So rich long, textured and rich.
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