THURINGIA Immerse Themselves Inthegentlemomentumofslowtravel

THURINGIA immerse themselves inthegentlemomentumofslowtravel. brings manyunexpected rewards forvisitorswhoputasidethemapamomentand well-trodden, anditscitieswere onthe worldculturalmap,Thuringia longagosketched tocombineboth.Althoughitsroadsandtrailsaretourism; italsooffers manyopportunities in thecity1919. by GoetheandSchiller150yearsearlier,theradicalBauhausmovement whichwasborn camp isagrimreminder oftheperiod,standinginbleakcontrasttoculturallegacyleft withobedientfollowersoftheNDSAP.public services The formerBuchenwaldconcentration first Germanstate tobegoverned itspoliceandother bytheNazis,anditquicklystocked these citiesare hundreds ofsmallertownsthatinvite exploration. for beingbothacentre ofhistoricGermanLutheranism, andofcarmanufacturing. Beyond Weimar, aculturaliconinitself;andEisenach,remarkable thecapital,Erfurt; cities –placeslike ofGermany,butThuringia’s doesnotaccountforitsfascinatingandexciting heart’ moniker oftheGDR.This picturesque state oncepart isquite aptlycalledthe‘green ingia (Thüringen), Few Germanregions canmatchtherollinggreen hillsandbucolic forest trailsfoundinThur- Thuringia 250 © LonelyPlanetPublications Today Thuringia andcultural isoneofthemostpopulartouristdestinations forhiking But Thuringia ofGermanhistory.In1930itbecamethe hasalsofelt thecolddouble-edge HIGHLIGHTS

POPULATION: 2.58 MILLION from Eisenach most famoustrail,byfootoronyourbike Rennsteig ( p273 ), Germany’soldestand ( p256) up, ora13th-centurymonastery, inErfurt beyond from Gothatobeautiful Friedrichrodaand through forest onacountrytram ( p268 ) Slow Travel &Cycling Hiking Views Bizarre Beds Escapism Culture Luther’s hideoutinEisenach( p270 ) cultureand cutting-edge inWeimar( p258 ) ( p269) Panorama MuseuminBadFrankenhausen

Take intheKyffhäuserMonumentand

Experience thefinestofbothclassic

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AREA: Eisenach Gotha Erfurt Bad Frankenhausen Weimar lonelyplanet.com including placesinSaxony-Anhalt. to anytown within50kmof point, yourstarting Hopper-Ticket (€4.50)isvalidforaday return unlimited travel onregional trains foraday;the Ticket (€26) gives uptofive people(orafamily) tickets available inThuringia. TheThüringen- tem. There are twogood-value DBdiscount roadsys- local busnetworksandanefficient Trains are supplemented bycomprehensive Around Getting the eastern partof Thuringia. A9cutsthrough Munich. TheBerlin–Munich of theThuringianForest onitswaysouth to skirts Erfurtbefore headingintotheheart Dresden), andthenorth–southB4,which of ErfurtandWeimar(linkingFrankfurt are theeast–westA4,which runsjustsouth for fulldetails. 7090 forautomatedtimetableinformation;www.bahn.de) Deutsche Bahn Frankfurt, Dresden andHanover; contact bydaily trainsfromBerlin, are serviced Thuringia’s main cities,ErfurtandWeimar, &Away There Getting (130km) am Main To Frankfurt To Hanover SAXONY A4 A7 A7 LOWER (100km) THURINGIA Fulda ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ HESSE If you’re driving,thearea’s mainarteries A38 B7 Bad Neustadt B27 Göttingen Salzungen BAVARIA Heiligenstadt Wernshausen Grosser Inselsberg ( % A71 Bad CENTRALTHURINGIA••Erfurt Meiningen B247 Leinefelde (916m) 118 61 for reservations, 118 61forreservations, B19 Herzberg National Ὀ Ὀ Hainich B80 Brotterode Tabarz Park Schmalkalden Eisenach Hildburghausen River Werra Zella-Mehlis B84 Thuringian Forest B243 Lauterberg Bad Mühlhausen To Bamberg(40km); B249 Sondershausen Munich (265km) B89 Gotha Waltershausen Friedrichroda Suhl Dietharz Tambach- Oberhof Bad Langensalza Beerberg Grosser (982m)

B249

% Gera Ilfeld River Nordhausen Kyffhäuser Erfurt B4 B4 Neustadt 0800-150 Ilmenau Sonneberg Mts B4 Neuhaus A71 Arnstadt B281 Coburg SAXONY-ANHALT A73 B86 A4

Rudolstadt Ilm B7 Frankenhausen Bad Buchenwald Sömmerda R Harzgerode iv Weimar Saalfeld

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r Rennsteig also available foralltransportcovering city surviving buildingsdate from before the 15th surviving that raged thecityin 1472,noneof through its duetoafirefrom thewoadplant. However, it beganproducing aprecious bluepigment nence andprosperity intheMiddleAges when to promi- bishopric in742,andwascatapulted of Europe’smostinteresting bridges. in therestored (Old Town)andone Altstadt and monastery, somelovely windingstreets tural gems cathedral includeaspectacular this university town, itsnumerousarchitec- WWIIbombingtookitstollonAlthough geographical centre of reunified Germany. lively townthatliesjust45kmsouthof the The ofcapital Thuringia isacharming and % ERFURT CENTRAL THURINGIA and Jena (€50). zones andtheregions Erfurt,Weimar between B85 B85 Kronach Erfurt wasfoundedbyStBoniface asa passforthe‘Verbundsgebiet’A weekly is BAVARIA 0361 /pop199,000

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(80km) 251 A14 THURINGIA THURINGIA

, B1 B3 C3 B1 C3 B3 C2 B2 C2 B1 D2 B3 C2 B4 B2 A3 B2 D3 253 ; and 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 9am-5pm stained- Zitadelle h Severikirche Gloriosa bell was rebuilt was rebuilt with a stone Madonna

. Domstufenfestspiele , situated on a natural , situated 9am-12.30pm & 1.30-5pm Mon- (1160), a bronze candela- 646 1265; Domplatz; h choir stalls % 211 5270) Engelsburg...... (see 24) Engelsburg...... (see DRINKING ENTERTAINMENT TRANSPORT Don Camillo...... Brauhaus...... Erfurter Pfauen...... Haus Zur Henner...... Il Mulino...... 43) Lutherkeller...... (see Si Ju...... Vamos...... Schwan...... Zum Goldenen Zwiesel...... Centrum...... Dubliner...... Hemingway...... Presseklub...... Studentenzentrum DasDie...... 62) Die Arche Cabaret...... (see 19) Jazzkeller...... (see Kulturhof Krönbacken...... Theater Erfurt...... Theater Waidspeicher...... Central Bus Station...... (1370–1420) featuring Biblical (1370–1420) featuring Wolfram % ( D1 C2 B2 A2 B3 C2 D3 A3 C3 B3 C3 A2 A3 B1 C2 C3 C3 C2 C2 B3 B3

, whose remains were brought to were , whose remains (1345) and a 15m-high baptismal 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 576 960; Domplatz; (1467), as well as the sarcophagus of (1467), as well as the sarcophagus of Highlights inside are the superb Highlights inside are Adjacent to the cathedral is the % the 14th-century Mon-Fri, 9am-4.30pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun May-Oct, 10-11.30am & 12.30-4pm Mon-Sat, 2-4pm Sun Nov-Apr) (St Mary’s Cathedral; per- year, when operas are in August each formed against the dramatic background. glass windows scenes; the a man; the brum in the shape of ( Fri May-Oct, 10am-12.30pm & 1.30-4pm Mon-Fri Nov-Apr) Madonna font St Severus Erfurt in 836. PETERSBERG ZITADELLE why Erfurt today has so many reason One attached, is that without churches towers the to erect demolished parts were Petersberg can be viewed on nels within the walls, which (1497); a Romanesque stucco hill north of the Dom complex. The fortress the Dom complex. The fortress hill north of tun- subterranean has a fascinating series of in the 14th century after the collapse of early the collapsein the 14th century after of this Gothic cath- of The steps predecessors. for the the venue edral are a five-aisled hall church (1280) hall church a five-aisled

8am- h 8am-8pm Dom St Marien h Rathaus...... Reglerkirche...... Severikirche...... Stadthalterpalais...... 23) Stadtmuseum...... (see Thüringer Produkte Museum.... Wigbertikirche...... Zitadelle Petersberg...... 12) Augustinerkloster...... (see Grand Hotel an Dom...... Hotel & Gasthof Nikolai...... Hotel Ibis...... Hotel Zumnorde...... Sorat Hotel...... Alboth's Restaurant...... Altstadt Café...... Krämerbrücke...... 21) Erfurt...... (see Kunsthalle Michaeliskirche...... Museum für Thüringer Volkskunde...... Peterskirche...... Predigerkirche...... Hotel am Kaisersaal...... Bombay...... SLEEPING EATING 664 00; www.erfurt 10am-6.30pm C2 C2 D3 B3 D2 C3 C3 B1 C3 C3 B2 A3 C3 B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 C2 A2 C2 C3 B2 B4 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, % 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 h 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 ( h 224 990; Puschkinstrasse 23; 6015 384; 5990 321; Anger 66-73) % CENTRAL THURINGIA •• Erfurt 262 3834; Ratskellerpassage, Fischmarkt Benediktsplatz % %

( 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-7pm Sat) ( ( (Lange Brücke; per 30min €1; 643 8361; Hauptbahnhof; % h ( % ( 601 2733; Fischmarkt 18-20; 10am-1am Tue-Sat) 18-20; 10am-1am 601 2733; Fischmarkt Petersberg Petersberg % ( 24hr) Reisebank...... Spielothek Oase...... Centre...... Anger 1 Shopping Angerbrunnen...... Angermuseum...... Augustinerkloster...... Barfüsserkiche...... Bartholomäusturm...... Begegnungsstätte Kleine Synagoge...... Collegium Majus...... Dom St Marien...... Galerie Haus Dacheröden...... 60) Galerie Waidspeicher...... (see Gildehaus...... Haus Zum Breiten Herd...... Haus Zum Roten Ochsen...... Haus Zum Stockfisch...... Haus zur Engelsburg...... INFORMATION Clinic...... Emergency Erfurt Tourismus...... (Petersberg)...... Erfurt Tourismus FAM...... Hugendubel...... Internettreff...... SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Haus Zum Sonneborn......

1am Mon-Sat, 10am-1am Sun) One of several in a chain. 5; per hr €2.40; inside Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) Has an ATM the station. -tourismus.de; Benediktsplatz 1; 10am-6pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun Apr-Dec, to 6pm Mon-Sat Jan-Mar) Apr-Dec) POST Main post office TOURIST INFORMATION Erfurt Tourismus Sights & SEVERIKIRCHE DOM an artificial hill on the site on top of Situated a small 8th-century church, of Free wireless internet points for laptops. wireless Free Internettreff Spielothek Oase MEDICAL SERVICES Clinic Emergency MONEY Reisebank h INTERNET ACCESS INTERNET ACCESS FAM lonelyplanet.com er sche

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14 M WALK FACTS Start Finish Distance Duration When you get to the When you get Garten Brühler 13 fice of Thuringia’s chancellor. Turn north on chancellor. Thuringia’s fice of strasse past and baroque right then on Barfüs- Meister-Eckehart-Strasse, haunting serstrasse, where ) awaits. Backtrack to Meister-Eckehart- opposite Strasse to the 13th-century and turn right to get Predigerkirche past the Kettenstrasse, and west on Paulstrasse GDR-themed 26) Paulstrasse by the live concerts at 11am on Saturday, and auto- live matic melodies several times daily). Severikirche lonelyplanet.com tain, to the right keep and follow Regierungs-

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654 8420; Anger 37-38; 654 8420; Anger 37-38; h Galerie Waidspeicher 655 5660; www.kunsthalle % ( , a huge garden show- , a huge

Glockenspiel has been undergoing has been undergoing Bartholomäusturm (4) % Angermuseum Cyriaksburgcastle (

, inside the Kulturhof , inside the Kulturhof (glazed earthenware). and 9am-8pm) Angermuseum Angermuseum 564 3700; www.ega-erfurt.com; adult/ . The portal and the southern h faïence % , while immediately to your left is , while immediately Museum für Thüringer Volkskunde . Take tram 2 from Anger. . Take Kunsthalle Erfurt 655 1960; www.kroenbacken.de; Michaelisstrasse 10; noon-6pm Wed-Sun) 10am-6pm Tue-Sun) For an insight into Thuringian folk art, For an insight Thuringian folk art, into From the Hauptbahnhof head north on Bah- From the Hauptbahnhof Bahnhofstrasse with Anger, intersects % You’ll also pass the tower with a 60-bell Walking Tour Walking Tour you to all the major This walking tour takes the city. attractions startingfrom the heart of to entrance that you may You’ll find so much completing it. spend hours Juri-Gagarin- crossing Just after nhofstrasse. Ring, you’ll come upon the 14th-century Reglerkirche (1) are church this former monastery tower of carvedRomanesque, and the large altar dates back to 1460. by houses from seemingly is flanked which them periods (most of historical different old). Off actually only 100 years to your are right you’ll see the enormous complex (2) the yellow, stuccoed look for head west on Anger, you ). As posite façades at No 23 and No 37–38. the pretty concession €5/4; on ground centred Strasse 38) GALLERIES The -erfurt.de; 7; adult/concession €3/1.50; Fischmarkt Wed & Fri-Sun, 11am-10pm Thu) 6pm Tue, on Fischmarkt, Ochsen Zum Roten Haus with gallery; others and is Erfurt’s largest art are contemporary of exhibitions changing Galerie Haus Dacheröden h ( h ). p258 (see cultural centre Krönbacken bone-carver’s on displays and workshop the including century, in the 20th Erfurt The GDR era. Anger 18) .angermuseum.de; late in to reopen and is expected restoration will once again find collections 2007. Visitors medieval 19th- and 20th- art and crafts, of paintings and 18th-century century landscape Thuringian visit the 5607; www.volkskundemuseum-erfurt.de; Juri-Gagarin-Ring 140a; adult/concession €1.50/0.75; is the the city centre West of tenausstellung;

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from the tourist office. The nearby The nearby tourist office. from the is where Luther was a monk from from Luther was a monk is where 655 5650; www.stadtmuseum-erfurt.de; Johan- tours hourly 10am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am tours hourly 10am-noon has among its exhibits a medieval has among its exhibits a medieval CENTRAL THURINGIA •• Erfurt THURINGIA CENTRAL % (

h Augustinerkloster was completed in 1400, and has regular in 1400, and has regular was completed guided tour guided

Sun) Tue-Sun) seum MUSEUMS MUSEUMS the zum Stockfisch, Inside the Haus it boasts a magnificent Ludwig Compenius. master cnr Michaelisstrasse & Allerheiligenstrasse; organ recitals in summer on its reconstructed in summer on its reconstructed recitals organ The baroque organ. 8484; Predigerstrasse 4; 8484; Predigerstrasse wall is still connected by an exposed aisle by an exposedwall is still connected aisle The with Gothic arches. seum, with a small collection of medieval medieval seum, with a small collection of art. Bombed in WWII, the west religious 560; Barfüsserstrasse 20; adult/concession €1/0.50; 1pm & 2-6pm Apr-Oct) Erfurt’s churches give an interesting insight insight an interesting give Erfurt’s churches into the city’s history. The most haunting is the partially destroyed CHURCHES CHURCHES the deconsecrated Aegideuskirche remains, remains, the deconsecrated Aegideuskirche ). p257 (see the Sorat Hotel now part of 1325 and adorned with churches at each end. end. at each 1325 and adorned with churches is building remaining Today the only church longest bridge with houses. It was originally with houses. bridge It was originally longest in in stone from wood but rebuilt constructed KRÄMERBRÜCKE KRÄMERBRÜCKE medieval 18m-wide and 120m-long The Krämerbrücke or Comthurgasse. An order of Protestant Protestant of An order or Comthurgasse. public prayer in the monastery; nuns resides services held four times daily. are The grounds and church are free of charge charge of free are The grounds and church throughout from Kirchgasse enter the day; exhibits on the Reformation and Luther’s cell, and Luther’s cell, exhibits on the Reformation magnificent cloister. and the tour includes the 1505 to 1511, and where he read his first mass mass his first he read 1505 to 1511, and where are There being ordained as a priest. after & 2pm Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Sat, from 11am Sun Nov-Mar) Nestled in the heart of the Andreasviertel, Andreasviertel, the heart of in the Nestled the €5/3; AUGUSTINERKLOSTER AUGUSTINERKLOSTER Romanesque a hourly Apr-Dec) 254 nesstrasse 169; adult/concession €1.50/0.75;

was where Martin Luther preached in 1522; in 1522; preached Luther Martin was where can be visited separately without a tour. can be visited THURINGIA THURINGIA THURINGIA

257 The This Veg- 9am-8pm Mon- h 11am-11pm Mon-Fri, from 6pm Tue-Sat) 568 8205; mains €7-15; h h % ( 568 8207; Futterstrasse 15-16; 15-16; 568 8207; Futterstrasse

% Enjoy a coffee, tea, alco- tea, Enjoy a coffee,

( 219 2366; Michaelisstrasse 29; €8-17; theme-eatery downstairs is downstairs theme-eatery Although the curries aren’t Although the curries aren’t 5626 473; www.erfurt-altstadtcafé 9am-late Mon-Sat, 10am-late Sun) On a warm day or night On a warm the 5400 535; Domplatz 35; mains €9-17; 5400 535; Domplatz 35; mains €9-17; % 654 6691; www.henner-sandwiches.de; 654 6691; www.henner-sandwiches.de; % ( This stylish sandwich bar has 654 6765; Domstrasse 15; tapas & mains (

561 7069; Lange Brücke561 7069; €7-17; 37a; mains Lutherkeller h

% 6552 295; www.si-ju-erfurt.de; 1; Fischmarkt ( % ( %

10am-1am Sun-Thu, 10am-3am Fri & Sat) 10am-1am Sun-Thu, % (

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h 11am-2pm & 6pm-midnight Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun) 11am-2pm & 6pm-midnight Tue-Sat, 11am-midnight) 11.30am-midnight) from 6pm Tue-Sat) from 6pm Tue-Sat) Don Camillo Don Camillo Si Ju Vamos Bombay Henner Alboth’s Restaurant €3-9.50; than enough to fire etarians will find more restaurant Spanish in this lively the palate and bar. h on the hot and it sets its sights resolutely tourist trade, this Indian eating house is very dishes. vegetarian decent, with lots of h Medi- for its creative Highly recommended cuisine, Don Camillo terranean many has surprises up its sleeve – not least its interesting wine list. CAFÉS Altstadt Café 1; snacks €2.50-6; .de; Fischersand noon-11pm Sat, 2-7pm Sun) an idyllic terrace on holic drink or snack here, alongside a canal. Weitergasse 8; sandwiches from €2.50; Fri, 9am-5pm Sat) Drinking the quarter, former university Erfurt’s nightspots, pubs is a hub of Andreasviertel, INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL Il Mulino h setting a treat and garden seatingriverside are – the menu could do in this Italian restaurant edition, though. with an abridged menus €33-79; 4- to 7-course set call for port of is a French-inspired restaurant those seeking in the a serious gourmet plunge The region. in German and prices personnel Thaler chirpy they say). rate, Each to (one-to-one exchange excellent. their own, both are mains €7.50-20; on ‘see word play name is a shocking you’, behind café and lounge but this restaurant, the Rathaus the building) is (actually part of and drinkers for diners a fashionable choice mood swings according to The all ages. of day. the time of sleek orange colours and delicious food. colours sleek orange a different kettle of fish – straw on the floor, of kettle a different h

) As well As If you’ve If you’ve pna It’s not so much It’s not so much (upstairs), and its (upstairs), 2623 742; Michaelisstrasse 644 50; www.grand-hotel 562 5827; Anger 21; mains €7- % 568 00; www.hotel-zumnorde This jack-of-all-trades (

% 211 5244; Marbacher Gasse 12-13; (

% (

% 674 00; [email protected];674 00; pension ( ) Slick, central and sparkling Slick, central and sparkling %

10am-midnight)

( CENTRAL THURINGIA •• Erfurt % ( h 7897 207; Michaelisstrasse 31; mains €5.50; 10am-1am)

% The rooms and suites are modern, are The rooms and suites h ) (

pna 11am-1am Sun-Thu, 11am-2am Fri & Sat) 11am-1am Sun-Thu, Erfurter Brauhaus Haus Zur Pfauen Hotel Zumnorde Zwiesel Sorat Hotel Sorat Hotel as tasty square meals, we found the ubiquitous as tasty square German boutique brewing of WiseThree Men one pilsner, one wheat beer and one dark here: pil- The fourth, the Märzbier (a blended beer. sner and dark beer), must be popular because it had run out on the day. mains €7-10; tradition on its sleeve – it’s a restaurant, wears (a dark beer and a has its own microbrewery pilsner), its own own beer garden; it even does city tours. wonderful location on the willow-fringed arm on the willow-fringed wonderful location the Gera River. of €180-250; s €100-130, d €120-150, ste .de; Anger 50/51; pna shoe neighbouring garden, with a view to the from Enter here. shop, and a good restaurant Weitergasse. TOP END Grand Hotel am Dom €230-560; so ‘the Grand’ is designed stars, with five facing the foyers, windows rooms either have the world, so it’s best or windows looking to booking. All are when to state your preference in subdued light-browns, appointed tastefully the Zen-inspired a whirlpool in and there’s wellness area. Eating TRADITIONAL Goldenen Schwann Zum 9; mains €5-12.50; traditional food that makes the unpretentious this place popular locally, rather the highly- boutique beer. unfiltered rated h heart, will, take the family just been cut out of – virtually you can still afford to fill up here stu- everything costs the same in this relaxed dent classic. lonelyplanet.com on the buildings, one an annex Sorat has two rooms. cheaper with historic Krämerbrücke and it’s a a designer edge, All rooms have Gotthardtstrasse 27; s €60-142, d €80-162; €60-142, d €80-162; 27; s Gotthardtstrasse -am-dom.de; Theaterplatz 2; s €125-140, d €135-150, ste €125-140, d €135-150, ste -am-dom.de; Theaterplatz 2; s Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation quite large and avoid decoration-overload in decoration-overload and avoid large quite a pretty There’s in the centre. this fine hotel 12; 11.30am-midnight Mon-Sat, noon-10pm Sun) ) )

pen- pn pni 036450-420 036450-420 ) This The nicest )

% ( ) If you’ve ever If you’ve p lonelyplanet.com pn 658 560; info@hotel 5981 7119; www.hotel % % ( (

pni 6013 2600; www.behindertenver 576 600; www.augustinerkloster 731 0344; www.pension-reuss.de; 731 0344; www.pension-reuss.de; %

( % 6000 110; www.re4hostel.de; Pushkin-6000 110; www.re4hostel.de; ( %

562 6705; [email protected]; ( 664 10; www.ibis.com; Barfüsserstrasse664 10; www.ibis.com;

% This chain hotel opposite the opposite hotel This chain ) (

You can swim in the lake in in the lake You can swim % % (

( Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation

The location alongside the river, The location alongside the river, ) Rooms are tip-top and appointed with tip-top and appointed Rooms are pn ) pn Ferienpark Hohenfelden Stausee north of the centre is good value, with the centre north of Hotel Ibis Hotel & Gasthof Nikolai Pension ReussPension Hotel am Kaisersaal Hotel Grenzenlos DJH hostel Re_4Hostel even if some rooms are small. even if some rooms are pn all the necessaries this highly-rated in hotel. Request a room to the yard, though, if street noise disturbs. sanctuary. band-erfurt.de; Jonny-Schehr-Strasse 12; s €45, d €70; especially for and catering Close to the centre physically disabled (it’s also deaf- and blind- is comfortable and friendly), this small hotel has easy wheelchair access. serve but they and no-frills, their purpose admirably. -nikolai-erfurt.com; 30; s €69-75, d €84- Augustinerstrasse 110; this a prime choice, make friendly owners comfy rooms – some with cooking facilities – comfy rooms – some with eyes and soul. and a back garden to sooth MIDRANGE Augustinerkloster 10; s/d €45/76; .de; Augustinerstrasse in the main mon- are twins and singles here also a Renaissance- building (there’s astery the wonderful section), with views over Hof access to this tranquil All guests have cloister. 81; www.hohenfelden.de; Hohenfelden; adult/child €5.50/3.50, adult/child €5.50/3.50, Hohenfelden; 81; www.hohenfelden.de; car/tent €2/2.50) about site modern camp large, summer at this Ilmtal. Take in the pretty Erfurt of 15km south Stausee. bus 155 to Hohenfelden 12; under 26/over 26 €17/20; Hochheimer Strasse is Erfurt’s comfortable DJH Jugendherberge 2km from the city nestled among villas about tram 5 to Steigerstrasse). (take centre strasse 21; dm €12-15, d €50; spent a night lock-up, maybe this in a police in this former police isn’t your thing; rooms hostel- twins to from hotel-like station range dorms. Beddinglike and towels cost extra. surprise. Room 13 has a chilling -am-kaisersaal.de; Futterstrasse 8; s €74-98, d €101-117; 8; s €74-98, d €101-117; -am-kaisersaal.de; Futterstrasse the overall high rooms, and the standard of the overall 9; r €59; Barfüsserkirche offers rooms that are small that are rooms Barfüsserkirche offers Spittelgartenstrasse 15; s €27, d €42-50; sion

Au- Fis- Kun- Haus Rathaus Collegium from 1584, walking tours (23) private rooms

Begegnungsstätte ; see p254 ). A short p254 ; see 1pm Mon-Fri Apr-Dec, 11am & 655 1660; An der Stadtmünze a cultural and educa- 21 h , a Renaissance gem from, a Renaissance gem ( % of the Altstadt and Peters- of ; ; p254 ). From the monas- ). From p254 ; (25) 22

20 , built 1870–75, has a series of (

( built in 1892. Look for the (ritual bath). Haus zum Breiten Herd (see p254 ). The neo-Gothic p254 (see from about €20 per person; there’s there’s from about €20 per person; , the site of the main building of of building the main of , the site (24)

8am-6pm Mon, Tue & Thu, to 4pm Wed, to 2pm Fri, 8am-6pm Mon, Tue , the medieval market square with a square , the medieval market Krämerbrücke 11am-6pm Tue-Sun) mikve CENTRAL THURINGIA •• Erfurt THURINGIA CENTRAL

h 664 0110)

h ; Head back to the western end of Krämer- end of back to the western Head

Go north along Michaelisstrasse, then Michaelisstrasse,Go north along then

26 %

( and some surprisingly central choice lots of options. Sleeping Sleeping BUDGET can book tourist office The 1pm Sat & Sun year-round) as on themes such as well as other tours berg, Luther in Erfurt. or Martin architecture The tourist office offers two-hour offers tourist office The (adult/concession €5.50/3; ends. On the 3rd floor is an extravagant festival festival ends. On the 3rd floor is an extravagant hall. The walking tour ends here. Tours interior murals depicting scenes from Luther’s murals depicting scenes interior leg- and Faust as well as the Tannhäuser life, sthalle Erfurt ( continues with the four virtues on the adjacent Gildehaus with a rich Renaissance façade and a friezewith a rich senses; human depicting the five this theme It’s flanked by several in- buildings, noteworthy It’s flanked cluding the chmarkt at its centre. a Roman warrior gilded statue of brücke and walk down Marktstrasse to down Marktstrasse and walk brücke tional facility focusing on Jewish tradition and Jewish tional facility focusing on was Erfurt’s history. This classical building 1884. The basementsynagogue from 1840 to in Erfurt, as well as a has an exhibit on Jews small Kleine Synagoge dieval you to the detour takes turn right into Kirchgasse, which leads into which turn right into Kirchgasse, Gotthardstrasse and runs south to the me- gustinerkloster and continue along Augustinerstrasse tery, turn right onto Augustinerstrasse to the reopened in 1994) was so influential that even was so influential that in 1994) reopened which to it as: ‘my mother to Luther referred I owe everything’. Erfurt’s venerable university. The university The university university. Erfurt’s venerable itself in 1392, closed (founded and in 1816 diagonally across the street is the is the street across diagonally Majus (19) 256 zum Roten Ochsen now houses1562, which the art museum 10am-5pm Sat & Sun) 4/5; THURINGIA THURINGIA THURINGIA 259 545 407; % ( (Weimar Classics 430 200; Markt 10; 545 401; Frauenplan 1; 545 401; Frauenplan 1; main office %

% 1-4pm Mon, 9am-noon & ( ( 7450; www.weimar.de; Markt 7450; www.weimar.de;

850 000; www.djh-thueringen Information stand h % 2310; Goetheplatz 7-8) % ( ( 908 106; Markt 13-4) % ( Located at Hauptbahnhof. 545 401; www.swkk.de; Frauentorstrasse % ( 800 194; Markt800 194; €1; 21; per 30min 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-3pm Sat & Goethe Haus % (Graben 4) Bank services (Graben 4) Bank and ATM. % h ( 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-3pm Sat & Sun 9am-4pm Mon-Fri) 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, 9.30am-3pm 10am-late Mon-Sat, 1pm-late Sun) Mon-Sat, 1pm-late 10am-late h h h Tourist Information Sights GOETHE HAUS as closely associ- other individual is No Wolfgang von with Weimar as Johann ated from 1775 until his Goethe, here who lived death in 1832. In 1792, his sponsor and em- him a house Carl August, gave ployer, Duke as a gift. roxanne EMERGENCY Police station MONEY Reisebank ATM Sparkasse POST Main post office TOURIST INFORMATION Buchenwald Information DJH Service Centre Stiftung Weimarer Klassik 4; Foundation; h 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, Sat & Sun Nov-Mar) 9.30am-2pm 10; Apr-Oct, 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar) .de; Carl-August-Allee 13; Markt 10; Sun Apr-Oct, 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar) Museum tickets, and information. literature 1-5pm Tue & Thu, 9am-noon Fri) Reservations1-5pm Tue and information for DJH hostels. 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, h CENTRAL THURINGIA •• Weimar 850 388; www.die-eule-buchhandlung.de; (per 72hr €10) Available from the tourist (per 72hr €10) Available 828 10; Schillerstrasse 5a) % ( % ( Assembly delegates felt that the volatile and explosive political climate rocking post-WWI rocking political climate post-WWI the volatile and explosive that felt delegates Assembly only briefly. With the situation in Berlin Weimar’s spot in the democratic limelight lasted HOW THE WEIMAR REPUBLIC GOT ITS NAME NAME ITS REPUBLIC GOT HOW THE WEIMAR democracy, was name, the Weimar Republic (1919–33), Germany’s first dalliance with its Despite in where, the place Ilm was merely town on the river The from Weimar. actually governed never the country’s first constitution. and passed drafted 1919, the National Assembly and looked for an alter- the democratic process if it took place there, Berlin would threaten factors in its favour: location. Weimar had several a central location, a suitable venue native antithetical to the militaristic tradition entirely and a humanist (the Deutsches Nationaltheater), Prussian spirit that had led to war. passing the constitu- to the capital just one week after returned calming down, the delegates tion on 31 July.

While the city can sometimes feel like a like feel While the city can sometimes The town is best known as the place where where best known as the place The town is office; covers admission or gives discounts for museums, travel on city buses and other benefits. Frauentorstrasse 9-11; per 20min €1; 10am-1pm Sat) giant tourist-filled museum, it is one of Ger- museum, it is one of giant tourist-filled places and belongs many’s most fascinating on every itinerary. drafted after WWI (see below ), though there below (see WWI after drafted this historical moment. of reminders few are concen- Buchenwald the The ghostly ruins of provide on the other hand, still tration camp, the Nazi re- of the terrors haunting evidence of The Bauhausgime. and classical Weimar sites sites. as Unesco World Heritage protected are Orientation walk south is a 20-minute The town centre (central train station). the Hauptbahnhof of Several buses serve Goetheplatz, on the north- the Altstadt. of edge western Information Weimar’s museums and parks are of Many Klassik by Stiftung Weimarer administered ( right ). BOOKSHOPS Thalia DISCOUNT CARDS WeimarCard INTERNET ACCESS Die Eule lonelyplanet.com Goethe, Liszt, Nietzsche, Herder, Schiller, Klee…the list Kandinsky, Feininger, Gropius, goes on). on (and on, and was constitution republican Germany’sfirst 666 666. % lonelyplanet.com 194 49. Tram 4 runs % 511 11 or % 551 166; www.dasdielive.de; Marstallstrasse551 166; www.dasdielive.de; % (

03643 / pop 64,000 The pantheon of intellectual and creative and creative intellectual The pantheon of Erfurt is just north of the A4, and is crossed the A4, and is Erfurt is just north of DasDie Throughout end of summer, from the Stages here host everything from cabaret everything host from cabaret here Stages tion, whereas its many museums take the its many museums the take tion, whereas the Enlightenment of visitor into the epoch and beyond. (and its characters) amounts here and worked giants who lived fame: Cranach to a virtual Germanic hall of Sebastianthe Elder, Johann Bach, Wieland, Tickets in the central (yellow) zone for trams in the Tickets and buses cost €1.50, or €5 for a day pass. For information, call (€1.50, 20 Anger to the airport from direct A taxi cost around €14. To minutes). should order a taxi, ring WEIMAR % a monumental town nor a medieval Neither whose run one, Weimar draws visitors tastes It is the pleasures. to cultural or intellectual German the Enlightenment, hav- of epicentre ing grown into a symbol for all that is good Its parks and in German culture. and great gardens bring tranquil colour to the city in to contempla- summer and lend themselves Erfurt has direct IC train links to Berlin-Haupt- IC train has direct Erfurt connections and ICE 3¼ hours) (€47, bahnhof and Frankfurt- (€42, 2¼ hours) with Dresden also direct are There (€46, 2¼ hours). am-Main and serviceshours) (€15, 1½ to Meiningen Mühlhausen Trains to Wei- (€10, 45 minutes). and Eisenach (€9, 50mar (€4.40, 15 minutes) run severalminutes) times hourly. and the to Bamberg) by the B4 (Hamburg to Gera). B7 (Kassel The new A71 autobahn car rental runs south to Ilmenau. Most major a offices at the airport. There’s have agencies & Ride on Europaplatz (B4), 6km north Park town. of Getting Around is the Die Arche cabaret, Erfurt’s premier premier Erfurt’s cabaret, Die Arche is the cabaret. political for address 12) beneath place classical concerts take May, courtyard of in the romantic linden trees concerts are (Friday). Organ Michaeliskirche and Michaeliskirche held at the Predigerkirche Dom (Saturday). (Wednesday), and at the Getting There & Away through to operettas, transvestite shows and transvestite throughto operettas, bands. revival Simon and Garfunkel ,

and t.akt , Though Blitz 244 770; www 223 3155; Theat- % 598 2924; www (

% Lots of venues venues Lots of % ( 655 1960; Michaelisstrasse Erfurt magazin

This puppet theatre This puppet theatre %

( This is the best address This is the best address 223 30; tickets 551 9944; www.hemingwaybar-erfurt 262 3369; www.presseklub.net; Dal- 262 3369; www.presseklub.net; Everything the macho scribe macho the Everything 6422 600; www.jazzclub-erfurt.de; 789 7388; www.centrum-club.de; Anger 7) 644 2072; Neuwerkstrasse 47a) 644 2072; Neuwerkstrasse % % % ( (

(

% ( % % ( (

and the local editions of and the local editions of Set in a right on Karl-Marx-Platz, CENTRAL THURINGIA •• Weimar •• Weimar THURINGIA CENTRAL This new theatre building beyond the This new theatre provide nightlife and event listings for nightlife provide Studentenzentrum Engelburg, Presseklub Presseklub Engelburg, Studentenzentrum Studentenzentrum Engelsburg Studentenzentrum Engelsburg Theater Waidspeicher Theater Waidspeicher Kulturhof Krönbacken Kulturhof Krönbacken Presseklub Centrum Hemingway Dubliner In summer, music events, including oc-

Frizz all good clubs and ) are above and Centrum ( music places. live Domplatz 18) .waidspeicher.de; Erfurt and other major towns. Erfurt and other major Theater Erfurt THEATRE & CLASSICAL MUSIC & CLASSICAL MUSIC THEATRE 10) Gildehaus, Fischmarkt 13/16) Gildehaus, Fischmarkt JAZZ JAZZ Jazzkeller Partysan Free magazines such as magazines such Free live bands and occasional film screenings. live Entertainment This club gets a young crowd for dance music, This club gets bersweg 1) in the Steinhaus, a positively labyrinthine labyrinthine a positively in the Steinhaus, cellar for music (most nights), and the Café upstairs. cultural forum DuckDich .eburg.de; Allerheiligenstrasse.eburg.de; 20-21) haunt has a pub rolled into one, this student elephant bagged from under Kilimanjaro. from elephant bagged 30 different Daiquiri cocktails.Africa The 30 different has a local Bambi,Lounge though, not an loved is here in abundance: cigar humidors in abundance: cigar humidors is here loved rum, and 148 types of drawers, with personal .de; Michaelisstrasse 26) pub in town and a highlypub in town place for convivial is all the go here, Whiskey a drink or two. especially downstairs. not in the Andreasviertel, this is the main Irish this is the main Irish not in the Andreasviertel, and bars, especially along Michaelisstrasse along Michaelisstrasse especially and bars, and Futterstrasse. 258 casional jazz, are held now and again in this casional jazz, are courtyard near former woad warehouses. cathedral is a state-of-the-art for thea- venue opera, ballet and concerts. tre, monolith, this club has lots of live music and live lots of monolith, this club has DJs, usually from Tuesday till Saturday. erplatz) in town for quality jazz. is on the ground floor of an attractive woad an attractive is on the ground floor of Above via Mettengasse). (reached warehouse THURINGIA THURINGIA THURINGIA B1 B1 B2 B1 B3 B2 C2 C3 C2 B1 B2 B3 A3 D1 261 same as . The 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 h Hungarian Haus Unter den . Goethes Garten- , Carl August’s sum- , 545 401; Marienstrasse 17; adult/ 545 401; adult/concession €2.50/2; 10am-6pm Wed-Mon Apr-Oct) % (

% ( Faust Symphony Faust h Anno 1900...... Brasserie Central...... Da Cono...... Jo Hanns...... Residenz-Café...... Zum Weissen Schwan...... ACC...... Planbar...... Studentenclub Kasseturm...... Studentenclub Schützengasse... Deutsches Nationaltheater...... E-Werk...... 11) Theater im Gewölbe...... (see Grüne Liga...... EATING DRINKING ENTERTAINMENT Zur Sonne...... TRANSPORT

. Visible only from the outside, it C3 B5 C5 D4 C3 C4 C3 D5 B3 C2 D2 B3 B4 B3 A4 C4 B3 B4 B2 and . This simple cottage (1776) was an . This simple cottage 545 401; adult/concession €3.50/2.50; 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 Liszt Haus % (

10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct)10am-6pm Tue-Sun Nearby, on the western edge of the park, the of edge Nearby, on the western Within view of the Gartenhaus is the is the the Gartenhaus Within view of named after the little river that runs through the little river named after is it. Its most famous feature haus Fürstengruft) Carl from Duke August and was early present to induce Goetheintended to stay in Weimar. in this building until 1782, he lived It worked: and also helped landscape the park. In 1999, the house was built in Bad of an exact replica the original from the tourist Sulza to protect invasions. Römisches Haus built between 1792 and 1797 mer retreat, under Goethe’s on top of supervision. Perched an artificial bluff, neoclassical Weimar’s first period rooms house now contains restored and an exhibit on Ilm Park. is the concession €2/1.50; in composer and pianist Franz Liszt resided Weimar in 1848 and again from 1869 to 1886 in this house, wrote when he Rhapsody IN WEIMAR ART NOUVEAU fans may want to see the home of Architecture designer and Belgian architect, Art Nouveau the van de Velde, Henry painter, Hohen Pappeln PARK AN DER ILM DER ILM AN PARK flank of the eastern sprawling Ilm Park, The the Altstadt, is an inspiring and romantic spot, h

, 545 545 545 same as same as % % 9am-6pm Faustina Faustina ( ( h h Schlossmuseum...... (see 24) Schlossmuseum...... (see und Paul Stadtkirche St Peter (Herderkirche)...... Stadtschloss...... Weimar Haus...... Wieland Statue...... Wittumspalais...... DJH am Poseckschen Garten.... Dorint Sofitel am Goethepark... Hotel Am Frauenplan...... Hotel Amalienhof...... Hotel Anna Amalia...... Hotel Elephant...... Villa Hentzel...... Wolff's Art Hotel...... Haus am Horn...... Haus am Frau von Stein...... Haus der Liszt Haus...... Rathaus...... Römisches Haus...... Schiller Haus...... SLEEPING Wilhelm Tell (adult/concession focuses on the B3 D4 C3 C3 C1 C3 B3 C3 C3 B2 B4 C3 C3 B5 C3 B3 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Schiller Haus 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 (Historic Cemetery) Fürstengruft . The study at the end of . The study at the end of Goethe Nationalmuseum CENTRAL THURINGIA •• Weimar 10am-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Mar) h Historischer Friedhof has a controversial Christoph Hodgson has a controversial Both Goethe and Schiller were interred at interred Both Goethe were and Schiller Part of the museum complex, the of Part Stiftung Weimarer Klassik Stiftung Weimarer 6) Information Stand...... (see Thalia...... Tourist Information...... Anna Amalia Library...... Bauhaus Museum...... Bauhaus Universität...... Carl August Statue...... Cranachhaus...... Fürstengruft...... Fürstenhaus...... Goethe & Schiller Statue...... Goethe Haus...... 15) Goethe Nationalmuseum...... (see Goethes Gartenhaus...... Buchenwald Information...... (see 6) Information...... (see Buchenwald Die Eule...... roxanne...... Sparkasse...... Klassik...... Stiftung Weimarer INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SCHILLER HAUS SCHILLER HAUS lived von Schiller dramatist Friedrich The in Weimar from 1799 until his early death Goethe, however,in 1805. Unlike he had to buy his own house: 401; Schillerstrasse 12; adult/concession €4/3; Goethe Haus, closed Tue) he penned as the desk where and other works. the in the neoclassical €2.50/2; Carl August. along with Duke GOETHE NATIONALMUSEUM GOETHE NATIONALMUSEUM himself than letters man of about the great Less the his epoch, 401; Frauenplan 1; adult/concession €2.50/2; Tue-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat, 9am-6pm Sun Apr-Sep, 9am-6pm Tue- Sun Oct, Nov-Mar) 9am-4pm Tue-Sun 17th- and early 18th-century, a period late to as Weimar Classicism. Goethe, referred Amalia and his ducal patrons (Anna Schiller, Carl August), his muse von Stein) (Charlotte in feature and various cultural spear-carriers paintings, books, busts, this loose collection of and other objets d’art. letters café mural depicting Weimar’s glorious Who’s Who; lurking among the famous faces – with Adolf – is one amusing touches a couple of Hitler. lonelyplanet.com the 2nd floor contains his deathbed, as well as well the 2nd floor contains his deathbed,

17 Am Horn Am 500 m 0.3 miles 16

Friedensstrasse

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a-Sch on Cor Hans Jena (23km) -Wahl-

D Leibnizallee 21 To Tiefurt Park & Schloss Tiefurt (3km); lonelyplanet.com

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48 River Ilm Map not necessarily to scale Map not necessarily Some streets pedestrian-only Jenaer Str 24

7 Brühl Belvederer Allee 43 Burg- platz

Marstallstr Ilm Park

10 18 41

an der 13 lossgasse

0 0

ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Sch

Belevedere Park Gerberstr Gerberstr Wagnergasse To Haus Unter den

Vorweksgasse Hohen Pappeln (1km); 33

str Mostgasse

& Schloss Belvedere (2km) Kaufstr iligrath-Str Jakob Platz der platz Demokratie 23 2

19 Seifengasse Ferdinand-Fre 3 Puschkinstr Beethoven- Markt platz

35 Because the demand to visit Goethe Haus Because to visit Goethe the demand Haus

Herder- 42 Frauentorstr 1

29 Berkaer Str Berkaer his dining room, study and the bedroom with his deathbed. a exceeds its capacity, you’ll be given often the museum.time slot to enter Once inside, for as long as however, you can stay there you want. case inspired by his Italian travels, you’ll see by his Italian travels, case inspired

Jakobstra 4 str schenstr Ackerwand

Jakobsplan 20 Marien Marktstr

Teichgasse 15 Windi Freiherr-vom-Stein-Allee 44

ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ BauhausstrὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ

Eisfeld Rittergasse 34 Neugasse Frauenplan

9 Graben 26 30

Karlstr Geleitstr 22

Amalienstr Geschwister-Scholl-Str 31 5

Wielandplatz Rudolf-Breitscheid-Str 40

27 Schillerstr

Brauhausgasse B Schützengasse 8 36 B85 Buchenwald (10km) Roll- platz DJH Jugendherberge DJH Service Centre & 32 Garten 38

Germania (400m); Pension 45 To Neues Museum (150m); Geleitstr 39 Savina (500m); Hauptbahnhof 14 37 (700m); Reisebank ATM (700m); (700m); Reisebank ATM 49 chen 46

12 Karl-Liebknecht-Str platz

Theater- Hummelstr

Ὀ Steubenstr Posecks

platz

Dingelstedtstr Goethe-

9am-6pm Tue-Fri, 9am-7pm 9am-6pm Tue-Fri, 9am-7pm Friedhof Hegelstr -Str Historischer

47 h

Gropiusstr Heinrich-Heine am Ettersberg (5km) DJH Jugendgästehaus Berlin (290km) nstr

To P+R Parking (1.3km); Frankfurt (275km);

is where he worked, studied, studied, he worked, is where Humboldtstr To Park & Ride (300m); Maxim Gorki (500m); DJH Jugendgöste haus Eisenach (80km); Leipzig

(125km); Dresden (200km); ptman Schubertstr ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆὆ AC

Schwanseestr Trierer Str

Hau

ὈὈ ὈὈ

ὈὈ ὈὈ Prellerstr in a the rooms is painted . Each of Park Cranachstr

CENTRAL THURINGIA •• Weimar •• Weimar THURINGIA CENTRAL Coudraystr

Weimarhallen- Steubenstr Erfurter Str Lisztstr Faust

WEIMAR 5

2 3 1 4

To Erfurt (22km) Windmühlenstr

To Nietzsche Archiv (150m) Gutenbergstr colour. After entering through a broad stair- entering After colour. Tue-Sun Nov-Mar)Tue-Sun adult/concession €6.50/5; Sat, 9am-6pm Sun Apr-Sep, Oct, 9am-6pm Tue-Sun 9am-4pm 260 researched and wrote such immortal works immortal works such and wrote researched as shade, according to Goethe’s own different mood and of theories about the correlation

THURINGIA THURINGIA

ὈὈ

ὈὈ ὈὈ THURINGIA

263 Goethe ; 1841) 8 ( DJH Service Cranachhaus can book can book ; see p259 ). p259 ; see 7 ( Bauhaus Museum Rathaus Goethe and Schiller . It was Wieland . It was Wieland ; see p261 ) and the new p261 ; see 811 40; www.kunstfest-weimar Deutsches Nationaltheater , which now houses, which the 11 545 401; adult/concession €4/3;

% ( ( % ; ; see opposite ) to Theaterplatz. ) to Theaterplatz. opposite ; see 16 ( 12

( 850 000; Carl-August-Allee 13) Wieland statue (6) Wieland statue Goethe Nationalmuseum Stadthaus (10) Schiller Haus % (

and Weimar Kunstfest , once a residence of Anna Amalia, the of , once a residence 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Nov, 10am-4pm Tue-Sun Nov- Apr-Nov, 10am-4pm Tue-Sun 10am-6pm Tue-Sun ; see opposite ), adjacent to the baroque opposite ; see ; 1857) fronts the ; German National Theatre), best known as ; German National Theatre), is an innovative festival of classical music of festival is an innovative Across from here is the Across from here Head west on Ackerwand to Wielandplatz, to west on Ackerwand Head to the further north leads A short walk turn right then onto steps, Backtrack a few , where painter Lucas Cranach the Elder the Lucas Cranach painter , where 15 13 14 ( the constitution of the Weimar Republic in the constitution of has several artistic claims 1919. The theatre from 1791 here to fame: Goethe was director its music to 1817, and Liszt and Strauss were 19th century. in the late directors ( Wittumspalais h Mar) the arts in late-18th-century patron of premier The walking tour ends here. Weimar. & EventsFestivals The .de) and literature dance, by theatre, supplemented year. August each performance, held in late Sleeping be- to Weimar pay a supplement of Visitors tween €0.50 and €2 per room per stay for the cultural sites. of upkeep BUDGET rooms private The tourist office can arrange starting from €22 per person. Hostels The Weimar has four DJH hostels. Centre accommodation. home to the Goethe Institut, a language school to the Goethehome school a language Institut, centre. and culture with the Shake- translated who first (1733–1813) into German. works north Then turn speare’s you’ll find the where onto Frauenplan, Haus neo-Gothic with its Markt, facing two Renaissance jewels: the (9) his death in 1553, before for two years lived and the tourist information office. leads the pedestrianised which Schillerstrasse, past the Weimar Haus statue the famous of Here, ( drafted Assembly the National the place where 2 Anna Anna 4 Ilm Park an der platz Burg- 200 m

Marstallstr (Rococo

3 ssgasse , a former

The dam- Schlo 9 Vorwerksgasse 10

Jakob str Mostgasse Kaufstr was a mar- . She Platz der 0 0 0.1 miles

Puschkinstr platz Demokratie Rokokosaal

Markt Seifengasse platz Frauentorstr Beethoven- 1

Herder- Ackerwand 8 str Marien 7

Teichgasse Marktstr Fürstenhaus (3)

ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ

Neugasse Eisfeld Rittergasse 6

Schillerstr

Karlstr Frauenplan

Geleitstr 11

, once managed by Goethe. In by Goethe. In , once managed 12 CENTRAL THURINGIA •• Weimar Amalienstr

Brauhausgasse Schützengasse 1½ hours 2km

15 Geleitstr 545 401; Platz der Demokratie 1). Theaterplatz Herderplatz

Wielandplatz

13 Humboldtstr Haus der Frau von Stein (5) platz

Steubenstr % Hummelstr Theater- platz

14 Goethe- Hegelstr WALK FACTS Start Finish Distance Duration The pink building behind the Fürstenhaus The pink building behind the Fürstenhaus To the south of here, on Platz der on Platz der here, To the south of Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ is the 2004 a fire raged through the library, home through the library, home raged 2004 a fire to some 900,000 books, and badly damaged the building, including of the top two floors the magnificent parts of Room; being restored, works and the room are aged to visit to be able expected are and visitors from 2008. ried woman who was Goethe’s long-time Ghibellino is to muse and, if author Ettore up the great be believed, a decoy to cover author’s socially unacceptable affair with The house Anna Amalia. is now Duchess of painting and sculpture; the Cranach Gallery the Cranach painting and sculpture; of and Dürer, has several portraits by Albrecht and German masters Dutch collections of residence palace romanticists. Several restored rooms can also be viewed. Demokratie, is the music a renowned palace that is now home of academy founded by Franz Liszt in 1872. The Carl Duke August. statue in front represents is the the square side of On the eastern Amalia Library (4) lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation ὈὈ

851 851 % 901 890; (literally (literally ; 1 ( %

(

Schloss Tiefurt , former resi- Belvedere Park 545 960; Burgplatz; displays glass, lonelyplanet.com %

( 545 401; adult/concession 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct,10am-6pm Tue-Sun , her own ‘temple of of , her own ‘temple Weimar Haus % h , with a good collection (

Stadtschloss (2) 10am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Sat, 11am- is an English-style garden garden is an English-style closed Mon) h Schlossmuseum 10am-7pm Apr-Oct, 10am-6pm Nov-Mar) h Halle der Volksgemeinschaft Halle h 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep),10am-6pm Tue-Sun Stadtkirche St Peter und Paul Tiefurt Park Schloss Belvedere h 545 401; Hauptstrasse 14, Weimar-Tiefurt; adult/conces- 545 401; Hauptstrasse 14, Weimar-Tiefurt; . Built in 1500, this is popularly known Walk east on Vorwerksgasse to Burgplatz, Walk east on Vorwerksgasse to Burgplatz, A few kilometres east of the Hauptbahn- east of kilometres A few % noon & 2-3pm Sun Apr-Oct, & 2-4pm daily Nov- 11am-noon and monk. as a knight, professor by the anchored adult/concession €5.50/3.50; Nov-Mar)10am-4pm Tue-Sun sion €3.50/2.50; Walking Tour dominated Our tour begins on Herderplatz, by the 518; Herderplatz; Mar) Gottfried Johann after as the Herderkirche whom Goethe brought to Weimar Herder, in 1776. His statue stands as court preacher and he’s buried inside. square, on the church itself altarpiece has a famous The church the Elder Lucas Cranach (1555), begun by by his son. In the left aisle is completed and Luther showing Martin triptych an interesting Saxe-Weimar. the ducal family of dence of Inside is the hof, hof, Amalia’s Anna that envelops ( and her the age of an impression visitors included often round-table gatherings, which Goethe; 3. bus take HAUS WEIMAR House,Near Schiller €6.50/5.50; a half-houroffers Disneyland-style multi- prehistory Weimar, from media history of to classicism. The guide – purists hold your – has an animatronic Goethe (it’s also breath in English). available but another odyssey occurred after it was it was after odysseybut another occurred useda as and hall’) by the Nazis, ‘people’s solidarity under Karl-Marx-Platz was then renamed the GDR. & TIEFURT PARKS BELVEDERE the lovely Outside Weimar, Carlharbours former hunting pal- August’s ace. €4/3; the muses’. The rooms are furnished to give to give furnished the muses’. The rooms are porcelain, faïence and weapons from the late from the late porcelain, faïence and weapons Bus 12 runs hourly 17th and 18th centuries. from Goetheplatz. www.weimarhaus.de; Schillerstrasse 16-18; adult/concession

, , , . Odyssey houses houses 11am-6pm 11am-6pm 545 963; Carl- h Haus am Horn %

gives a fasci- gives 1-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct)1-6pm Tue-Sun 545 401; Humboldtstrasse 545 401; Humboldtstrasse 545 401; Theaterplatz; adult/ 11am-5pm Wed, Sat & Sun) h % (

10am-6pm) % h

( (New Museum;

(Geschwister-Scholl-Strasse)

h Nietzsche Archiv Nietzsche Archiv CENTRAL THURINGIA •• Weimar •• Weimar THURINGIA CENTRAL Neues Museum Bauhaus Museum 904 056; Am Horn 61; Only one Bauhaus building was ever con- In addition to its modest permanent collec- Other splendidly restored Art Nouveau Art Nouveau Other splendidly restored Van de Velde also designed the ground floor also designed de Velde Van For more on the movement, see Modern on the movement, For more

% works of contemporary art in Weimar. The art in Weimar. contemporary works of complex was built in 1863, as a gallery exclu- to Homer’s for works relating sively The August-Allee; adult/concession €3.50/2.50; Apr-Oct,Tue-Sun Nov-Mar) 10am-4pm Tue-Sun NEUES MUSEUM NEUES MUSEUM and the Bauhaus Archiv/Museum für Design ). p112 in Berlin ( ( protagonists, has excellent changing exhibi- protagonists, changing has excellent documentarytions, and shows (in footage German) methods. Students explaining their artisans as much making the as artists, were products they designed. Called the in Weimar. structed tion, the museum the group and its chronicles the foundations for the success of the school the school the foundations for the success of worldwide. key figures throughout the world. They of throughout the world. They of figures key with them, laying took their ideas course moved to Dessau, and in 1932 to Berlin, moved where the scattering by the Nazis, it was dissolved ists including Kandinsky, Klee, Feininger and Klee, Feininger ists including Kandinsky, In 1925 the Bauhaus as teachers. Schlemmer Chicago) like no other. The Bauhaus School no other. Chicago) like founded in Weimar in was and movement top art- Gropius, who drew 1919 by Walter artisans, who shaped our understanding of artisans,of who shaped our understanding in the city of modern design (particularly concession €4.50/3.50; artists and nating insightthis group of into BAUHAUS IN WEIMAR IN WEIMAR BAUHAUS The the Historischer Friedhof. the Historischer buildings cluster on Cranachstrasse, Guten- on Cranachstrasse, buildings cluster bergstrasse and Humboldtstrasse, just west of where the philosopher spent his final years in spent his final years the philosopher where that now houses and the building illness, the Bauhaus Universität of the looks a bit like a ship on its side and features features side and on its a ship a bit like looks stone, stylisednatural loggias chimneys, and bus 1 or it, take windows. To reach oversized 12 to Papiergraben. 262

36; adult/concession €2.50/2; 36; adult/concession today it’s used and events. for exhibitions ) p212 Dessau ( of ), our coverage p56 Design ( THURINGIA THURINGIA THURINGIA

mu- 265 rents city rents 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr- 10am-6pm Tue-Sun are 10km northwest are h 03643-4300; Ettersberg Hill; www %

( 492 796; Goetheplatz 9b) 903 600. % ( % After the war, the Soviet victors turned victors the war, the Soviet After Grüne Liga BUCHENWALD The Buchenwald concentration memorial camp seum and .buchenwald.de; admission free; Oct, Nov-Mar) 10am-4pm Tue-Sun pass the memorial erected You first Weimar. of the 56,500 of some of the mass graves above – victims from 18 nations that died here and including German antifascists, Soviet The concen- war, and Jews. of Polish prisoners 1km beyond tration camp and museum are prominent German com- the memorial. Many munists and social democrats, Ernst Thäl- among them, mann and Rudolf Breitscheid 1943, prisoners After here. murdered were weapons. of in the production exploited were died during medical experimentation. Many the war, some 28,000 the end of before Shortly sent Be- on death marches. were prisoners of than one-fifth tween 1937 and 1945, more died. On here the 250,000 people incarcerated and 11 April 1945, as US troops approached (at rebelled the SS guards fled, the prisoners the entrance 3.15pm – the clock tower above the re- that time), overwhelmed still shows themselves. maining guards and liberated the tables by establishing Special Camp No 7000 so-called anticommunists 2, in which to death. worked literally and ex-Nazis were National Theatre has a stage here now, and now, here a stage has Theatre National cultural events music and live cinema, there’s Horn (try to visit the Rebecca at various times for events. the website exhibit). Check Getting There & Away services 2½ go to Frankfurt (€59, Regular ICE Leipzig Dresden hours), 50 minutes), (€22, and Berlin-Hauptbahnhof (€39, two hours) Erfurt (€4.40, 15 minutes) (€47, 2¾ hours). served are and Eisenach (€12, 1¼ hours) frequent severalthere’s times hourly, plus services West (€4.60, 15 minutes). to Jena Getting Around a good there’s outside the centre, For trips (single €1.60, day pass €3.80). For bus system a taxi, call stayingUnless in an Altstadt drivers hotel, the paid park- in one of their car must leave for the signs Look ing lots outside the centre. saying ‘P+R’. bikes from €6 per day (enter from Rollplatz). from €6 per day (enter bikes

The Any- 904 323; www 851 670; www Students and % (

% ( We watched We watched gets complex when gets

(German National Theatre;

This clunky stone This clunky stone 777 377; Markt 11/12) %

( CENTRAL THURINGIA •• Buchenwald 493 617; Scherfgasse493 617; mains €5-14; 1; Not just the decor is from from Not just the decor is . Expect a grab-bag of classic of . Expect a grab-bag 514 285; Hummelstrasse 5; mains €8-19; 514 285; Hummelstrasse 502 785; Jakobsplan 6) here – on one of its Monday – on one of here % ( % penne Arabiatta 851 161; www.acc-weimar.de; Burgplatz 1) 851 161; www.acc-weimar.de;

% ( (

(www.strassenbahndepot.info; Am Kirschberg 4)

The food is satisfying The it’s the but % (

11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-11.30pm Mon-Thu, 11.30am- Mon-Thu, 11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-11.30pm closed Jul-Aug) 755 334; www.nationaltheater-weimar.de; Theaterplatz; Theaterplatz; 755 334; www.nationaltheater-weimar.de; E-Werk Da Cono Planbar Studentenclub Schützengasse Theater im Gewölbe Studentenclub Kasseturm ACC Jo Hanns Entertainment Deutsches Nationaltheater % h opera and con- theatre, and contemporary certs here. – from Goethething goes to cult barfly here Charles Bukowski. The people in Weimar. culture contemporary the in bringing it to life, involved were at ACC so Jo also sells them to quaff in your room, or – price restaurant listed for half the wherever, speak. so to ‘Jo-to-go’, h 11.30pm Fri & Sat) the food is too – it’s unpre- here, another age Even ingredients. Italiantentious, and full of the simple Da Cono, of the rest it. Like you think about the service has character. Drinking for high-kicking night- not renowned Though nice ports Weimar nevertheless has a few life, call for the visitor. of music live of bag tower has DJs, an assorted for young floors, three and other events over and old. from 11am, just hang out and take Eat here to visit the art drinks, or wander upstairs exhibitions). It’s a doorway space (changing arts scene. to the contemporary beer from €1 burn-out are to highbrow tidotes music – be warned, club and live and lots of factor is high. the grunge lonelyplanet.com 11am-1am) that the Saale-Unstrut region 130 wines from 130 local Keeping different. Jo Hanns make course impossible, is of and fresh bottles open .kasseturm.de; 10) Goetheplatz Big Lebowski Big (9pm start).nightan- Other film screenings .schuetzengasse.de; Schützengasse 2) .schuetzengasse.de; the young-at-heart flock to this trendy bar to this trendy the young-at-heart flock right into club events locally. that’s hooked This former tram depot is the sharp edge of of This former tram depot is the sharp edge Goethe’s This popular 8720; www.sofitel 11am-1am Mon-Fri, lonelyplanet.com % h (

908 751; Frauentorstrasse The ‘Resi’ is one of The ‘Resi’ is one of 10am-1am) % ( 852 724; Rollplatz 8a; breakfast 852 724; Rollplatz 8a; breakfast

594 08; www.residenz-café.de; 594 08; www.residenz-café.de; 8020; elephant.weimar@arabella 8020; elephant.weimar@arabella h % ( 903 571; www.anno1900-weimar

% % On the scene since 1920, ( ( noon-midnight Wed-Sun)

This well-designed hotel has hotel This well-designed % ) ( h

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation pa This plush classic has seen This plush the best ar- ) Brasserie Central Zum Weissen Schwan Hotel Elephant Anno 1900 Residenz-Café classic, too. .de; Geleitstrasse 12a; mains €8-14; 10am-1am Sat & Sun) café in an Art Nouveau-style this attractive it has some conservatory stopover; is a lovely and killer desserts. offerings vegetarian reason: everyone for their finds something reason: is €18 for Breakfast The Lovers’ here. taste well- – or the less two, but for the un-in-love dishes meat and vegetarian off – the regular will do the trick. or a place to indulge eatery, becomes a relaxed and a wine or beer,in coffee as the clock loops the hours. dish is servedfavourite (broiled beef here beet salad sauce, red with Frankfurt green have others and potatoes). and lots of Schiller this traditional graced the tables of apparently sheraton.com; Markt 19; s €99-162, d €125-186, ste €343-585; pn throughhallowed portals. its rive Everything three- The in abundance. you pay for is here enough is large suite roomed Thomas Mann hide and seekfor a decent game of with your the highly-rated that, visit bodyguards; after restaurant. Elephantenkeller Eating is traditional in the fare of much Although in most find choices will Weimar, vegetarians places. Grüner Markt 4; mains €5-15) and for good Weimar’s enduring favourites, out burying you in it, and for allergy sufferers sufferers it, and for allergy you in out burying a rooms. It’s low-allergy of a couple are there splendid choice. TOP END Dorint Sofitel am Goethepark 1-2; s €95-150, d Beethovenplatz .com; [email protected]; €121-177; are For highly noise-sensitive guests there several touch extra-quiet rooms. A masterful artist is the Italianate spa designed by Munich Christoph Hodgson. rooms in three buildings connected by walk- by buildings connected rooms in three range). the Villa is top of ways (Dingelstedt €2-10, mains €8.50-10.50; 23; mains €10-18; bistro-bar starts the day with breakfast and starts the day with breakfast bistro-bar ) ) )

) near pn pn pn pn 421 850 % ( % 850 490; jh ( pension, This hotel in a This hotel ) 850 792; www 850 792; % 494 40; www.hotel ( p % % This ) ( 495 60; www.hotel-anna ( 5490; amalienhofweimar@

) Just north of the centre. n % 540 60; www.art-hotel-weimar ( % (

n 866 90; www.pension-savina.de; 866 90; www.pension-savina.de;

% (

% 862 90; [email protected]; Rollplatz 862 90; [email protected]; Rollplatz 865 80; [email protected]; Bau- (

Although rooms are small and Although rooms are ) ) In a nature reserve) In a nature north of town. ) Near the Historischer Friedhof. % % ( (

p ) On the hilly southern side of town. ) On the hilly southern ni CENTRAL THURINGIA •• Weimar •• Weimar THURINGIA CENTRAL Wolff’s Art Hotel Hotel Amalienhof Hotel Am Frauenplan Hotel Anna Amalia Zur Sonne

pni 750; Zum Wilden Graben 12; under 26/over 26 €18/21; Graben 12; under 26/over 26 750; Zum Wilden richly styled rooms that point to history with- richly The charms of this Church-affiliated hotel hotel this Church-affiliated of The charms neoclassical furnishings, manifold: lots of are t-online.de; Amalienstrasse 2; s €65-80, d €80-100; ness visitors alike, Wolff’s classy and alike, is a very ness visitors a spa/fitness area place with contemporary and gourmet restaurant. a tad more style and are a cat’s whisker larger. larger. a cat’s whisker style and are a tad more Somehow they still seem plain, but the rustic staircase and location offset this. -am-frauenplan.de; Brauhausgasse 10; s/d €51/77; Rooms are very spacious and quiet in this very Rooms are near Goetheplatz. factor hotel The feel-good room is fine – even the breakfast is high here at peak hour. -amalia.de; Geleitstrasse-amalia.de; 8-12; s €55-70, d €75-140; between the Ilmpark and the Historischer between the Ilmpark and the Historischer Friedhof. classical villa has comfortable modern rooms wedge in a residential the centre, just out of Villa Hentzel hausstrasse 12; s €54-67, d €75-95; MIDRANGE MIDRANGE 2; s/d €51/77; it’s clean, hotel, nondescript in this traditional and right in town. reliable pnis 111; Ettersbergsiedlung; under 26/over 26 €18/21; 111; Ettersbergsiedlung; under Hotels include a small sauna, and extras – which servicea solarium, and a pick-up if you call ahead. Meyerstrasse 60; s/d €38/60; Pension Savina Pension DJH Jugendgästehaus am Ettersberg DJH Jugendgästehaus Maxim Gorki DJH Jugendherberge Germania DJH Am Poseckschen Garten Poseckschen DJH Am 264 .jh-posgarten.de; 26/over 26 17; under Humboldtstrasse €17/20; [email protected]; 13; Carl-August-Allee €17/20; under 26/over 26

.net; Freiherr-vom-Stein-Allee 3a/b; s €75, d €95; .net; Freiherr-vom-Stein-Allee Hauptbahnhof, is difficult for value to beat Hauptbahnhof, A sister-hotel of Zur Sonne, rooms here have have Zur Sonne, rooms here of A sister-hotel and busi- by tourists favoured An art-hotel THURINGIA THURINGIA THURINGIA

of 267 in the Rooms ) (cascading Orangerie p pension 4420; www.hotel-am This is a small but 853 206; Bergallee 3; s/d ) % , a booklet available , a booklet available ( Wasserkunst with no-frills rooms with no-frills An excellent Italian- )

% p ( 222 138; www.ekhof-festival.de) 408 020; www.pension-regina.de; 408 020; www.pension-regina.de;

p commands Hauptmarkt. It Hauptmarkt. commands % 856 755; www.cafe-suzette.com; Bebel- % ( (

situated near the palace in a situated pension 295 93; www.toscana-gotha.de; Pforten- % (

Most rooms have showers and showers Most rooms have ) % (

Kulturkalender pension p Rooms in the only central top-end Rooms in the only central ) Ekhof-Festival Pension ReginaPension Pension am Schloss Pension Café Suzette Toscana Hotel Am Schlosspark from the tourist office. Sleeping reservations free The tourist office makes for listing private and has a good brochure hotels rooms from around €17 per person. €21.50/48; antiques, in this com- toilets, and some have fortable strasse 8; s €31.50-36, d €54; well-equipped Haupt- from minutes shop, five a cake above here. is available hire Bike bahnhof. wallstrasse 1; s/d €45/65; on nightmares architectural a few opposite and well-appointed the ring road, it has lovely rooms. pn modern and fully equipped. in Gotha are choice It is the best option for wheelchair users, and the adjacent playground. kids will like Oct, Nov-Mar) 11am-4pm inhabited 1567, was later in as a store was built Friedenstein Ernst I until Schloss by Duke the and was then turned into was completed, 1665. The town hall in in the 14th century, fountain) was created it’s water; supply the city with as a canal to is deep and the pump decorative, now purely at Lucas-Cranach-Haus inside the baroque also re- No 17. Other houses Hauptmarkt on a tired, the legs are ward exploration, or if in the 18th-century picnic lunch these is a nice way to enjoy the Schloss luscious surroundings. & EventsFestivals The cultural highlight year in Gotha is each the and theatre are there in July and August, when in this a baroque note concert performances on other smaller events Various famous theatre. be should held throughout the year, which are in listed 1920s building. -schlosspark.de; 20; s €90-110, d €115-136; Lindenauallee Schwabhäuser Strasse 4; s €29-36, d €50-60; run hotel and restaurant (see p268 ). Although p268 (see and restaurant run hotel are plain but functional in this are town centre. , , , one 823 414; research Festsaal %

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(underground 11am-6pm Apr- has top bill- 823 451; adult/ ; the real gem, gem, ; the real h . % ( Museum für Region-

Ekhof-Theater Gothaer Liebespaar Gothaer (€0.50; Kasematten Schlossmuseum tower 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) occupies the northeastern h 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) CENTRAL THURINGIA •• Gotha deserves special mention. The 1pm & 2pm Tue-Sun) h is jammed with miniature cu- is jammed with miniature , with its colourful Renaissance h Schlosskirche with more than half a million books with more Rathaus The In addition to works by Rubens, Tischbein, Rubens, Tischbein, In addition to works by In the west tower is the On the 2nd floor you’ll find the of the oldest baroque theatres in Europe. The The in Europe. the oldest baroque theatres of goes Friedenstein tradition at Schloss stage back to 1683, and a mechanised set-changing device survives from that period in working order. library aspanning 12 centuries. You can also take the atmospheric tour of HAUPTMARKT The façade and 40m-tall ed – supposedly the link with the Brit- because of – and survivedish royal family to WWII thanks von Gadolla, who surrendered one Josef Ritter executed Allies in 1945, and was the town to the largely remains The exterior by his own side. – one towers with two distinctive unchanged, the mu- Among round and the other square. seums it contains, the adult/concession €4/2; baroque and neoclassical royaling, with lavish collections. Expectapartments and eclectic to here. spend at least two hours and his father Lucas the Younger Lucas Cranach the (pre-Dürer don’t miss the Elder, Cranach period) medieval delight, by an unknown artist around 1480.painted and is believed to be This depicts two lovers German double portrait. the first stuccoed ceilings, wallsan exuberant hall of wing flashy neoclassical The less and doors. which of sculptures, contains a collection of called the Renaissance work by Conrad Meit Adam und Eva Kunstkammer including exotica like riosities and treasures, pit sporting eggs and a cherry ostrich engraved a carved The palace Ernst the Pious. portrait of Europe’s oldest Egyptian also houses one of collections. algeschichte und Volkskunde concession €5/2; lonelyplanet.com Sights FRIEDENSTEINSCHLOSS horseshoe-and 1654, this between 1643 Built surviving is the largest shaped palace early in Germany.baroque palace It was never bomb- corner, while the east wing contains a Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation though, is the refurbished though, is the refurbished passages; €3.50; lonelyplanet.com 363 111; Margarethenstrasse 222 138; www.gotha.de; Haupt- 222 138; www.gotha.de; (Ekhofplatz 1) With an ATM; a (Ekhofplatz 1) With an ATM; 211 411; Gutenbergstrasse 11; per % % ( ( % ( 10am-11pm) Internet and phone access. 10am-11pm) Internet and phone h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat year-round, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri) h h Although the Schloss is Gotha’s main at- is Gotha’s main Although the Schloss long Hauptmarkt and the busier Neumarkt. long Hauptmarkt The central bus station is on Mühlgrabenweg, the centre. northeast of Information Gothaer Netcafé Gotha-Information Main post office & bank is also at the train station. Reisebank ATM Tourist information years of wandering Europe and fanning the and fanning Europe wandering of years the Enlightenment. of embers traction, highly the is a ride on enjoyable tram that a small city Thüringerwaldbahn, and winds throughrattles, squeaks the coun- Forest. in the Thuringian tryside to Tabarz Orientation and Friedenstein up a hill, Schloss Perched Gotha’s city up about half of its gardens take with the Altstadt to the north, and to centre, (central train the south, the Hauptbahnhof walk fromstation). It’s only a brisk 15-minute – the to the central squares the Hauptbahnhof 30min €1.30; markt 2; 10am-2pm Sun May-Sep) Tourist information. 2-4; , a lyrical but highly charged retelling of the classic legend of the classic legend retelling , a lyrical but highly charged (Storm and Stress) literary movement. Though he worked worked he Though movement. literary (Storm and Stress) Faust Sturm und Drang CENTRAL THURINGIA •• Gotha •• Gotha THURINGIA CENTRAL Born in Frankfurt-am-Main and trained as a lawyer, Goethe quickly overcame the disadvantages the disadvantages Born in Frankfurt-am-Main and trained as a lawyer, Goethe quickly overcame Goethe was revered across Europe even in his own lifetime. Napoleon invited him to France to him to France to Napoleon invited his own lifetime. in even across Europe Goethe was revered Goethe’s defining work was

03621 / pop 47,000 GOETHE – THE LITERARY COLOSSUS COLOSSUS GOETHE – THE LITERARY called the He’s often like a colossus. bestrides German culture von Goethe Johann Wolfgang fairy novels, to be 82, having written lived Shakespeare even but not ‘German Shakespeare’, scientific articles as well treatises, criticism, philosophical and travelogues, tales, essays, literary landscaping town planning, architecture, as plays and poetry. Goethe also dabbled in politics, In short, with the likes of Christopher Marlowe. and collaborated he was the and social reform, do everything. last Renaissance man – the last man to be able to of a wealthy background and a happy childhood to become the driving force of the Gothic- influenced 1770’s be the Imperial Laureate. Though fascinated by Napoleon, Goethe was no blind admirer; he didn’t he didn’t by Napoleon, Goethe was no blind admirer; fascinated Though be the Imperial Laureate. a celebrity stalker – the talented to have Goethe was probably the first author ever go to Paris. (1751–92), part Sturm und Drang circle, was so obsessed with his of the JMR Lenz but tormented slept with his old lovers! him around and even his writing, followed mentor that he imitated and experimented in various styles throughout his life, his work with Friedrich Schiller fostered Schiller fostered his work with Friedrich his life, in various styles throughout and experimented Goethe himself once described his work as the theatrical style known as Weimar classicism. of his not – the Weimar Edition Small fragments they were confession’. ‘fragments of a great works numbers 133 volumes! complete of a man selling his soul for knowledge. It took Goethe almost his entire life to complete it to his it to his to complete life entire It took Goethe almost his of a man selling his soul for knowledge. own satisfaction, in Germany today; and it’s still probably the most-performed piece of theatre a fitting legacy for a genuine giant. Gotha grew and rose in the to prominence Gotha grew

Pamphlets and books in English are sold at sold are and books in English Pamphlets Weimer; by car, bus 6 from take here To get

with Voltaire, who passedVoltaire, through in his Gotha with the Enlightenment of the 18th century. In fact, of the Enlightenment corresponded Gräfin Louise Dorothea regularly WWI as Windsor and now occupies the British WWI as Windsor warmly embraced The royal court royal throne. Schloss Friedenstein and gardens. Duke Ernst Duke and gardens. Friedenstein Schloss Saxe-Coburg- House of the I was founder of itself after Gotha, the dynasty that reinvented residence and built the enormous yet gracious and built the residence handful of interesting attractions. interesting handful of Ernst I made it his 17th century, when Duke This century it can no longer lay claim to ei- This century it can no longer a pleasant town with a ther, but it remains Thuringia’s wealthiest and most beautiful city.Thuringia’s wealthiest and % Gotha between EisenachSituated and Erfurt, documents aswas once described in historic GOTHA head north on Ettersburger Strasse from Wei- Ettersburger head north on mar station and turn left onto Blutstrasse. the bookshop. Lastthe bookshop. is 30 minutes admission closing. before Their bodies were found after the Wende in the Wende after found bodies were Their and near the the camp north of graves mass Hauptbahnhof. 266 THURINGIA THURINGIA THURINGIA for 269 , a quiet 034651- (Early Civil 10am-6pm % is an oil

( (card €14)

h to Emperor 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 034671-717 16; www h % ( 9am-7pm) 034671-6190; www.panorama Bad Frankenhausen h Kyffhäuser Card % Kyffhäuser Monument sells the The monument stands on the foundations by monument is best reached The remote high tower, and above the stone throne of the stone throne of high tower, and above known better I (1125–90; Emperor Friedrich his spir- as Barbarossa) whom he considered itual predecessor. the medieval (Upper Castle) of the Oberburg of Kyffhäusen,Burg castle com- Germany’s largest its destruc- plex (608m long, 60m wide) before tion in 1118. Today, the only ruins remaining (Lower Castle), as the Unterburg those of are and a 172m-deepwell as a gate well. also a sporadic bus servicecar, but there’s from Bad Frankenhausen. Panorama Museum Bad Frank- 3km north of Schlachtberg, On the stands a giant concrete enhausen’s centre, is a painting which cylinder that harbours truly epic – in both proportion and content. Frühbürgerliche Revolution in Deutschland Revolution in Germany; -museum.de; adult/concession/child €5/4/1; Apr-Oct,Tue-Sun Nov-Mar) 10am-5pm Tue-Sun painting measuring 14m by 123m (!) and a style called ‘fantastical real- representing artists as classical such of ism’, reminiscent than More Bosch. and Hieronymus Bruegel assembled in numerous scenes, 3000 figures, metaphorically depict the tumultuous tran- in 15th- and sition from the Middle Ages 16th-century Europe to the modern era. requires a change in Gotha. Mühlhausen in Gotha. is a change requires Sonder- the B249 from of crossroads at the shausen,the B247 from Gotha. and THE KYFFHÄUSER wedged mountain range, forested low This Mountains to the north between the Harz har- to the south, Forest and the Thuringian severalbours unique and intriguing sights. It from is best explored The southern edge. spa town at the forest’s Tourismusverband Kyffhäuser .kyffhaeuser-tourismus.de; Anger 14; 9am-noon Sat) Kyffhäuser Monument of and steep ravines the dense forests Above the 457m-high Kyffhäuser mountain, looms the bombastic A statuebuilt in 1896. showing Wilhelm I, standsWilhelm on horseback below a 60m- 2780; adult/concession €5/4; admission to the main attractions here. admission to the main attractions

) This Inneres ) ni p . In a town 816 020; adult/ % . The wall is just ( 465 00; www.hotel-an 4710; www.brauhaus-zum Rabenturm % ( 870 023; adult/concession €3/2; 870 023; adult/concession % (

% 812 513; Steinweg 65; mains €10-17;

( to him, along with exhibi- to him, along town wall 440 091; Steinweg 6; mains €7-17; % NORTHERN •• The Kyffhäuser THURINGIA 11am-5pm Apr-Oct) (

One of the top restaurants in the top restaurants One of 813 318; jh-muehlhausen@djh-thueringen % ( h

% memorial (

, the entrance for a 200m stretch of of stretch , the entrance for a 200m The tasteful fittings, comfort and old- The tasteful ) 11am-5pm Tue-Sun) 11am-5pm Tue-Sun) 11.30am-10pm) & 6pm-1am Thu-Sat) 11am-2.30pm Tue-Sun Brauhaus zum Löwen Postkeller Finally, pocket your guidebook, let the town your guidebook, let the Finally, pocket An der Stadtmauer Zum Nachbarn Go west along Herrenstrasse to the Go west along Herrenstrasse h house with beamed ceilingstown, in an old red has Thuringian this place and windows galore, the menu. cuisine on and international h options, this mightshort on entertainment isbe your place: local food from the kitchen served room with Art Nouveau in a lovely for getting a pub-club upstairs tiles, and there’s down and dancing. Getting There & Away Hourly trains run from Erfurt (€10, 45 min- Coming from Eisenach (€10, 50 minutes) utes). of the Peasants’ War on the Schlachtberg. Schlachtberg. War on the the Peasants’ of is a There h the 12th-century concession €3/2; and three two gates under 3km long, and has still standing. You can walk as far as towers the lookout platform on be your landmarks, and explore wall and spires Mühlhausen’s back streets. fascinating Sleeping & Eating DJH hostel 1; under 26/over 26 €13/16; dem Tonberg .de; Auf town is about 2km northwest of This hostel (bus 5 or 6 to Blobach). pn Some rooms open onto a courtyard, and there’s a small bar and beer garden. -loewen.de; Kornmarkt 3; s €55-63, d €80-95; buildings different has three hotel-restaurant its own It also brews for any taste. that cater pub for kick- beer and even has an impressive ing up your heels eating – don’t try this after though. Mains 1m Bratwurst, the restaurant’s €7 to €13. are lonelyplanet.com it is the second- naves, Mühlhausen. five With Dom the – after in Thuringia church largest reformer 1525, the priest and in Erfurt. In to his rebel here preached Thomas Müntzer the disastrous battle final before followers -der-stadtmauer.de; Britenstrasse 15; s €49-55, d €69-75; -der-stadtmauer.de; Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation town location make this a very good choice. good choice. this a very town location make Frauentor tions on his life and work. life tions on his ,

and 404 684;

% ( 4310; www Obermarkt 887 9950; Johann- % 11am-5pm Tue-Sun) lonelyplanet.com (

% (

h is a good starting point 404 770; www.muehlhausen.de; 404 770; www.muehlhausen.de; 10am-12.30pm & 1-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-12.30pm & 1-5pm Mon-Sat, Kornmarktkirche , however, is a weird one. is a weird one. , however, 4520; Ratsstrasse 19; adult/conces- %

( h % , another of the 13 churches in the 13 churches another of , ( 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, Sun) 10am-1pm Sat &

and the Untermarkt Divi-Blasii-Kirche h . This building is a sprawling con- Thüringerwaldbahn on Rathaus tourist office The The Marienkirche A WEIRD RIDE A WEIRD RIDE has some nice rides on the rails. Thuringia network off the main Much of the regional Eisenach–Erfurt serviced line is regularly by When you see cars. single carriage drive one, hop on, buy a ticket from the machine the countryside at will. It’s slow and explore at its finest. travel This ordinary city tram (the No 4) starts This at Gotha’s Hauptbahnhof, curves around the city ring road, crawls through some unlovely suburbs and then just keeps going, right (€3.60, to Tabarz into the beautiful forest 22km, one hour). .waldbahn-gotha.de) Continuing north you reach Continuing north you reach From here, walk north along Linsenstrasse walk north along From here, The Kornmarkt are never far from the surface of this interest- neversurface of from the far are ing city today. influences, put together over several centuries over influences, put together from 1300. the 1-5pm Sun) the continuation of town on entered if you’ve from the Hauptbahnhof. Karl-Marx-Strasse Knights was built by the Teutonic The church Sebastian Johann in the 13th century, and inaugurating a here, as organist worked Bach in 1709. new organ to Ratsstrasse; adult/concession €3/2; a museumto the history of is dedicated where Reformation. The War and the the Peasants’ building itself was deconsecrated in 1802, and The tour- usedwas later as a grain warehouse. on Ratsstrasse, here ist office is just north of in the Ratsstrasse 20; Sights in the located The most important sights are in with a leisurely is best taken which centre, stroll. The Sebastian-Bach-Platz 4; coction of Gothic, Renaissance and baroque coction of sion €1/0.50) is about 1km west of Hauptbahnhof, between Hauptbahnhof, of 1km west is about in in the north and Untermarkt Obermarkt is the (near Obermarkt) the south. Steinweg street. main shopping

For This long- 11.30am-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm) 11.30am-2.30pm 852 506; Brühl 7; mains €7-14, 852 506; Brühl 7; mains €7-14, 240 25; Buttermarkt 6; cakes240 25; Buttermarkt €0.80- h % % ( (

706 834; 18.-März-Strasse 24) 295 93; www.toscana-gotha.de; Pfortenwall-

% % (

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9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, Sat, 10am-6pm 10.30am-6pm NORTHERN •• Mühlhausen THURINGIA

h 11.30am-2pm & 5pm-midnight, 11.30am-midnight Sun) 11.30am-2pm & 5pm-midnight, 03601 / pop 37,000 Watch the world go by from this charming go by from this charming the world Watch For the Thüringerwaldbahn see the boxed seeFor the Thüringerwaldbahn the boxed Café Loesche

Carnaby König Sahl Toscana

reminders of this and other historical events of reminders and the place where Thomas Münzer preached Thomas Münzer preached and the place where The rebellion. of (against Luther) in favour Germany’s most attractive and intactGermany’s city walls. most attractive of The city is also famous for being a centre War, during the 16th-century Peasants’ revolt Ages. Cobbled alleyways wind through a wind through Cobbled alleyways a Ages. that is surrounded by one of historic centre River valley about 40km north of Gotha, has of 40km north valley about River from the Middle architecture picture-book % Unstrut the pretty in situated Mühlhausen, MÜHLHAUSEN NORTHERN THURINGIA NORTHERN THURINGIA text text ( right ). Hauptbahnhof (€44.60, 3½ hours) and for (€44.60, 3½ hours) Hauptbahnhof (€43, ICE ones going to Frankfurt-am-Main the A4 and Gotha is just north of 2¼ hours). is crossed by the B247 and B7. utes) and Weimar (€8, 35 minutes). It’s also minutes). and Weimar (€8, 35 utes) stop for IC trains going to Berlin-a regular Gotha is easily reached by regional train from by regional Gotha is easily reached Erfurt (€5, 20 min- Eisenach (€4, 25 minutes), Getting There & Away Getting There & Away sometimes has live music. It’s still open after music. It’s still open after sometimes has live the good König Sahl has put away his rack. standing Gotha favourite does snacks, standing a few Gotha favourite and sizes, and all ages attracts a crowd of glasses exactly one lined up on a wooden rack long. Servicemetre is earthy and charming. h Toscana barflies, and it’s part of the hotel of of the hotel part of Toscana barflies, and it’s the same name. a delicious taste of Italy, this is the place to be. Italy, to be. this is the place of a delicious taste a small cocktail bar at the entrance for There’s café near Hauptmarkt. strasse 1; mains €6-20; 1.50; Sun) Eating & Drinking & DrinkingEating on the area centred are eating options Most and Neumarkt. around the Hauptmarkt 268

The good king is worthy for two reasons: he for two reasons: The good king is worthy grills and some lava does Tex-Mex monster his own beer. dishes, and he brews vegetarian 13 beer’ of consists of The astounding ‘metre THURINGIA THURINGIA THURINGIA

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her death in 1235 for abandoning a pompous a for abandoning in 1235 her death poor. helping the of favour in lifestyle court under the assumed name here into hiding being excommuni- after Jörg, Junker of this under papal ban. During and put cated New Testa- the entire time he translated into German, contrib- Greek ment from to the developmentuting enormously of His modest Germanthe written language. wood-panelled is the only which in English), tour (available the rooms of Many way to view the interior. you’ll see 19th-century contain extravagant medieval rather than the life of impressions original fittings. The Romanesque is one highlight.

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on a famous minstrels’ contest that contest on a famous minstrels’ Rennbahn 11 Kasseler Str Richard Wagner based his opera Wagner Richard EISENACH 2 3 1 4 Romanesque style, while other rooms are are style, while other rooms Romanesque work from restoration and date recent more from be- Wartburg at Goethe’s to save behest a delight- is The result rubble. coming historic Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance ful blend of and Revivalism. häuser betweentook place at the castle 1206 and the of 1207. It was also notably the residence the Landgrave of Elisabeth, wife much-revered was canonised shortly after She Thuringia. of lonelyplanet.com museum & Luther €6.50/5.50, adult/concession .de; tour €3.50/2; room only Sec-). p273 (the Jumper; seeder Springer to the late- monuments the castle are tions of have been created in 1067 by Count Ludwig in 1067 by Count been created have ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ 3603- 390728; % ( lonelyplanet.com 2500; Auf der Wartburg;2500; Auf 792 30; www.eisenach.de; 2500; www.wartburg-eisenach % ( % (per 72hr €16) Covers public % ( (

(Markt 6) 685 854; Markt 2) Bank with ATM. Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation Hainich National Park (Alexanderstrasse 63; per 30min €1.50; % 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat year-round, ( Wartburg h 03691 / pop 44,000 6am-3am) Internet café. 8.30am-8pm Mar-Oct, 9am-5pm Nov-Apr) In the Despite the impact of acid rain and thought- acid of the impact Despite central upland, which is studded with crags with crags is studded upland, which central h Sights WARTBURG Caught no other, the mein turbulence like dieval around the Markt, a 15-minute walk from the a 15-minute around the Markt, Local buses stop right outside Hauptbahnhof. busesgo to while overland the Hauptbahnhof, Müllerstrasse one block northwest. Information Eisenach Classic Card transport admission to or reduced and gives you free important sights. Main post office Sparkasse Surf Planet Tourist-Information Wartburg Information EISENACH % the Thuring- of edge on the western Situated town of pretty the modest and ian Forest, Eisenach is famous for being the birthplace Sebastian Johann Bach, and as the place of Luther went into hiding on the Martin where the the Reformation. Luther’s refuge, eve of is now a Unesco World Heritage Wartburg, Beyond site. the castle itself, Eisenach offers and is a conven- culture the visitor plenty of Rennsteig, to the picturesque ient gateway Germany’s hiking trail. most popular Orientation is 2km south- which Except for the Wartburg, concentrated most sights town, are west of and peaks rising to about 1000m, is crossed about rising to and peaks by Germany’s most popular trail, the Rennsteig, along spectacular runs for 168km ridges. which the also incorporates Forest The Thuringian 76-sq-km (especially near development in patches less denseSuhl), the climate, and rural woodlands a wonderful place to ex- the region make paths or in modern single-carriage by foot, bike plore network. railway on the regional railcars Markt 9; 11am-1pm Sun Apr-Oct) h Wartburg. www.nationalpark-hainich.de).

Tradi- ) p 034671-624 32; Erfurter rents bikes (€3 to bikes rents 10am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm FAU RadwanderzentrumFAU % (

034671-750; www.residenz h % ( This restaurant, in one of in one of This restaurant, 034671-5450; www.hoehle.de; Mühlen034671-5450; www.hoehle.de; 034671-5120; www.alte-haemmelei

, some 5km from Bad Frank- % % ( ) ( This large hotel close hotel to the Pan- This large

THURINGIAN FOREST •• Eisenach •• Eisenach FOREST THURINGIAN

pns 034671-777 71; Hauptbahnhof)

Weinlokal Zum Schwan

To get to outlying sights, it’s best to go To get Hotel Residenz It took artist Werner Tübke and his assist- and Tübke artist Werner It took

northwest and Saalfeld in the southeast. This northwest and Saalfeld mountainous region about 35km wide and about mountainous region between Eisenach in the 160km long, stretches THURINGIAN FOREST THURINGIAN FOREST Wald), a (Thüringer The Thuringian Forest ( under your own steam. under your own steam. 1½ hours). By car or motorcycle, take the B4, take By car or motorcycle, 1½ hours). B86 and then the B85. Sömmerda. Erfurt has the best connections (€9,Sömmerda. Train connections to Bad Frankenhausen or in Bretleben a change usually require serves and various steaks, local Sauerbraten and has about 30 bottled wines on its list. Getting There & Around the oldest half-timbered buildings in town, deals and wellness packages that include use of deals and wellness packages is one the spa section. a huge The restaurant best options in town (mains €8 to €20). orama Museum is a good midrange choice for choice orama Museum is a good midrange stays, for last minute and even better overnight -frankenhausen.de; 3; s €69, d €99-119, ste Am Schlachtberg €150; tion is worn on the sleeve of this historic this historic tion is worn on the sleeve of half-timbered house with wooden interiors. nice beer has a garden and a The restaurant good wine list. Alte Hämmelei Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating 6, Rottleben; adult/child €6/4; A highlight of the impressive plaster caves at caves plaster A highlight the impressive of Barbarossahöhle Nov-Mar, hourly tours) themes impress. Barbarossahöhle Its artistic merit and political context have have and political context Its artistic merit been ambitious but its size and questioned, gorical work, which was opened in 1989 as one was opened in 1989 which gorical work, the GDR government. the last official acts of of 270 ants five years to complete this complex alle- this complex to complete years ants five .de; Bornstrasse 33; dm €24, s €40, d €60-80; .de; Bornstrasse 33; dm €24, s €40, enhausen, are the slabs described by legend as the slabs described by legend enhausen, are Barbarossa’s table and chair. Strasse 9; mains €8.50-13) €5 per day). THURINGIA THURINGIA THURINGIA pen- 273 036928- % ( 8.30-10.30am & 2-4pm h 784 738; Schmelzerstrasse 4-6) Schmelzerstrasse 784 738; % ( Rennsteigwanderhaus and hotels. Fahrrad Henning Hörschel is regularly serviced is regularly Hörschel by regional A Rennsteig bike trail also begins in Hör- trail bike A Rennsteig There’s a local tradition of dipping your dipping a local tradition of There’s trail. The tourist office in Eisenach has cycling and maps. You can also and hiking brochures maps – pick up information and professional No 118 (€7) is a good Wanderkarte Kompass one – from the 911 94; Rennsteigstrasse 9, Hörschel; Mon-Fri, 9-11am & 2-4pm Sat, 9-11am Sun). the pebble is the Rennsteig, Upon leaving back to the forest. given trains and buses from Eisenach’s Hauptbahn- and Müllerstrasse bus station respectively hof Blankenstein Oberellen). of (in the direction and Jena has good connections with Saalfeld, beyond. rents bikes for €8 per day. Pick up a cycling Pick up for €8 per day. bikes rents tourist office. map from the RENNSTEIG as Germa- notorious, perhaps even Famous, long-distanceny’s most popular trail, the south- wends and winds 168km Rennsteig (just outside Eisenach) east from Hörschel to Blanken- mountain ridges along forested The trail is marked on the Saale River. stein ‘R’, and is best hiked by signposts reading You and September/October. in May/June but otherwise fit, should be moderately no needed – just are special skills or equipment to carry strong thighs good shoes and a set of as between such days. Day hikes, you for five the trail, of a taste offer and Oberhof, Hörschel villages and if you do want to stay overnight, plenty of have and towns below the trail sions to the hiking but it is mostly parallel schel, walking stick into the Werra and picking up starting out. before a pebble from its waters ) Chill Chill i A Jackson Five Five A Jackson Here you might might you Here Dishes in this tasty 720 851; Frauenberg 13; mains 213 533; Wartburgallee 2; mains % (

% 213 049; www.schorschl.de; Georgen- THURINGIAN FOREST •• Rennsteig ( 888 830; Wartburgallee 54;

% ( %

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6pm-midnight Mon-Sat) 5.30pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 11.30am-2.30pm This relaxed pub draws an upbeat draws an upbeat pub This relaxed h h LUDWIG DER SPRINGER – TAKING THE JUMP THE JUMP DER SPRINGER – TAKING LUDWIG Henry the Fowler was supposedly out catching birds one with monikers. rife gentry is German unfortunate The 13th-century Thuringian day when someone told him he’d just become king. and and other territories, Thuringia Henry the Illustrious, squabbled for years over landgrave, Karlhad a son called Albert the Bald got his by-name for obvious reasons. the Degenerate. the der Springer (Ludwig But what about Ludwig earn his. the Rich probably didn’t even Ludwig when he sprang out of a window supposedly got his jumping-Jack-moniker Jumper)? Ludwig he was jailed for fatally stabbing the after leap occurred great The in Halle. into the Saale River Saxony. To make good his foul deed against Friedrich, Friedrich III in a squabble over margrave that lies under the foundations of Schloss Reinhardsbrunn he founded the Benedictine monastery ). p274 in what is now – you guessed it – Friedrichroda (see Restaurant Saray Schorsch’l driving, Eisenach is right on the If you’re Turmschänke Fifty Four out in this café-bar that offers snacks, good snacks, good that offers out in this café-bar access) internet (like cocktails and lots more till late. Getting There & Around is crossed by the B7, B19 and B84. free zone – just class and good food in a zone – just class and good food in a free that thoroughly atmospheric wine restaurant Kaiserhof. the Hotel is part of €8-13; & 5.30pm-midnight Sat & Sun) will delight vegetarians Turkish restaurant especially. to Er- trains run frequently regional Direct (€5, 25 minutes) Gotha furt (€9, 50 minutes), from Eisenach. and Weimar (€12, 1¼ hours) and also run to Frank- faster ICE trains are di- from here; (€39, 1¾ hours) furt-am-Main (€54, IC trains to Berlin-Hauptbahnhof rect stop in Eisenach. Bus services3¾ hours) sporadic at best; two useful connections are and the include the 280b to Friedrichroda, 30 to Mühlhausen the Müllerstrasse (all from bus station). or EisenachWest) and A4 (exits Eisenach Ost lonelyplanet.com Wed Nov-Mar) & Tue Mon, 5.30-11pm a distant sewer,low-volume followed by a on a favourites – the waiter’s Five Jackson quiet night, it seems. is well in this But all serves cellar, which former monastery local culinary favourites. alternative crowd for drinks, light eats and drinks, light crowd for eats and alternative music. live strasse 19) €22-25; hear James Blunt’s voice echoing as if from as if from voice echoing Blunt’s hear James )

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% ( pn Located in an Located ) lonelyplanet.com Automobilmuseum 204 70; www.hotel 797 223; www.wartburg p 2420; www.hainstein.de; % ( , with its Wartburg , with its Wartburg %

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212 358; Markt 10; mains €8-12; 212 358; Markt 10; mains €8-12; Lots of long-socked hikers hikers long-socked Lots of 214 260; www.schlosshotel-eisenach 743 259; jh-eisenach@djh-thueringen % % ( ( %

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Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation 11am-5pm Tue-Sun) h 772 12; Friedrich-Naumann-Strasse 10; adult/concession 11am-11pm Apr-Oct, & 5.30-11.30pm Thu- 11am-3pm Hotel Haus Hainstein DJH hostel Though now a shadow of its former self, Though a shadow of now Hotel auf der Wartburg Gasthof & Wanderpension Storchenturm Hotel am Bachhaus Schlosshotel % called ‘Luther’ rooms, but the real opulence opulence called ‘Luther’ rooms, but the real (similar to jun- begins in the ‘Prince’ category parking is below the hotel. Free ior suites). Eating & Drinking Brunnenkeller h in other rooms. .de; Marktplatz 10; s €78, d €105-115, ste €124-180; courtyard Most rooms face the quiet interior town. It’s of in this big complex in the centre among business travellers. a favourite hotel.de; Auf der Wartburg; s €135-155, d €200-320; has subdued colours Built in 1914, this hotel the historic site. to match and furnishings in town are The singles at this luxury address The tourist office has a free room-finding room-finding The tourist office free has a service rooms start – private at €15 a single and €25 for a double. villa is housed Art Nouveau hostel in a stylish 3 or 10). bus (catch Wartburg at the foot of Georgenstrasse4040 4050; www.gasthof-am-storchenturm.de; 43; dm €18, s €23, d €36) pad down the trails for simple but comfortable guest house in a hostel-type – with rooms here in a former barn. a fun restaurant Marienstrasse-am-bachhaus.de; s €50, d €70-75; 7; little street is plain and gets well-priced hotel noise, but you mighthear guests’ movements Thuringia, including sculpture, paintings and and paintings sculpture, including Thuringia, objects. liturgical up in Eisenach revved car manufacturing in factory was built to manufacture 1896 when a car based on a French were which Wartburgs, The called the Decauville. ( €3/2; BMW a legendary Dixi dating from 1899, exhibits, celebrates 328 sports car and other this history. Sleeping .de; Mariental 24; under 26/over 26 €15/18; Am Hainstein 16; s €45-60, d €70-80; Art Nouveau villa in the leafy and hilly south Art Nouveau has bright, town, this hotel stylish rooms, of the and views of a restaurant its own chapel, Wartburg.

, Geor- 298 30; 298 30; has an % 793 40; www ( Gedenkstätte 754 34; Marien-

Reuter-Wagner %

( % 11am-5pm Tue-Sun) 784 678; Predigerplatz 784 678; Predigerplatz 10am-noon & 2-4pm) h % h ( 9am-4pm Mon-Fri)

Lutherhaus Bachhaus , where Martin Luther Luther Martin , where h in writer Fritz Reuter’s Fritz Reuter’s in writer houses famous paintings of houses of famous paintings 213 126; 10am-5pm)

(Golden Lion Memorial; 743 293; Reuterweg €3/2; 2; adult/concession , a memorial to the composer who % h ( Predigerkirche

% (

museum THURINGIAN FOREST •• Eisenach •• Eisenach FOREST THURINGIAN 11am-5pm Tue-Sun) 10am-6pm) In the Fans of the more controversial composer composer controversial the more of Fans To get to the Wartburg from the Markt, Markt, from the Wartburg to the To get The first nationwide proletarian move- The first South of here is the here South of The half-timbered The

you’ll find a collection of medieval art from you’ll find a collection of 2; adult/concession €2.60/1.60; strasse 57; admission free; strasse 57; admission free; the 19th-century exhibit covering interesting in Germany. movement workers’ Wilhelm Liebknecht in 1869. The in 1869. The Wilhelm Liebknecht Goldener Löwe ment, the Social Democratic Workers Party , , Party ment, the Social Democratic Workers was founded in Eisenach by August Bebel and former villa. Museum h Richard Wagner should check out the exhibi- check Wagner should Richard and works at the tion on his life concert played on antique instruments. h house was born in 1685 in a now-demolished nearby. Visits conclude with a 25-minute .bachhaus.de; Frauenplan 21; adult/concession €4/3; Frauenplan 21; adult/concession €4/3; .bachhaus.de; teractive multimedia terminals (German multimedia terminals and teractive English). traces his life through paintings, manuscripts through paintings, manuscripts traces his life by in- works, complemented and illustrated sion €3/1.50; www.lutherhaus-eisenach.de; 8; adult/conces- Lutherplatz while under the papal ban, and the tombstone and the tombstone while under the papal ban, is Springer the ubiquitous Ludwig der of also here. ing Johann Sebastian himself, were organists Sebastianing Johann organists himself, were here between 1665 and 1797. Luther preached genkirche the Bach family, includ- of members where CITY CENTRE CITY CENTRE by the galleried is dominated The Markt (50 minutes). From April to October, buses From April to October, 10 (50 minutes). and 13 run roughly hourly to the Eselstation, just below the castle (€1.10). about 40 minutes, and parts are rather steep). and parts are about 40 minutes, the Haintal is via route scenic return A more then head southwest along Schlossberg southwest along Schlossberg then head via Eselstation through (this takes the forest walk one block west to Wydenbrugkstrasse,walk one block portant Christian artefacts from all over Ger- over from all portant artefacts Christian many. Between crowds Easter and October, 11am. before so arrive can be horrendous, Luther by Lucas Cranach the Elder, and im- the Elder, by Lucas Cranach Luther 272 lived as a schoolboy between 1498 and 1501, between as a schoolboy 1498 and 1501, lived THURINGIA THURINGIA THURINGIA 275 is just Schloss Wil- , another place 403 182; www.schmalkalden , the palace chapel, has has , the palace chapel, % ( 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat

, a 17km easy-to-moderate , a 17km easy-to-moderate h St Georgenkirche (1419) on Altmarkt functioned 403 186; Schlossberg 9; adult/concession 403 186; Schlossberg 9; adult/concession % Schlosskirche ( 10am-6pm Apr-Oct, Nov- 10am-4pm Tue-Sun

, with its coffered and painted ceil- and painted , with its coffered tourist office Rathaus h . It was built between 1585 and 1590 . It was built between 1585 and 1590 The Altstadt under the sheer sighs weight The The the of terminus is the western Schmalkalden Apr-Oct, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat Nov-Mar) off Altmarkt. Sights & Activities is the well- the city centre Towering above preserved late-Renaissance-style helmsburg €3.50/2; Mar) as a Hessen, by Landgrave Wilhelm IV of The and summer residence. hunting lodge its original design from the has kept Schloss murals and Renaissance period, with lavish the which stucco decorating most rooms, of Riesensaal The playfully ing, is the most impressive. decorated is thought that to be the wood organ a rare its type in Europe. of oldest working organ to September held from May Concerts are (contacton this Renaissance the tour- gem ist office). the Schmalkaldic as the meeting place of League; of nearby the incongruous towers the late-Gothic also look out Luther once preached, where the square. over Martin-Luther-Weg hiking trail that ends at Tambach-Dietharz, Friedrich-roda. Schmalkalden will forever will forever Schmalkalden Friedrich-roda. for it was here to the Reformation, be tied that the Protestant and princes met in 1530 League, Schmalkaldic formed the coun- to Catholic Emperor of powers the central ter of Peace the way for the paving Charles V, for the religion of and freedom Augsburg German in 1546. states its half-timbered saidof to houses, are which in the historic buildings up about 90% of make by a handsome hill- heart. All this is crowned Wilhelmsburg. top castle, Schloss Orientation & Information the train walk from a 10-minute It’s about and bus stations to the Altmarkt, the town’s and another seven to minutes central square, booth an ATM There’s Wilhelmsburg. Schloss on Weidebrunner Gasse, near Lutherplatz, the southern end of and the post office is at Altmarkt. .de; Mohrengasse 1a; .de; Mohrengasse ) re- pn 884 681; jh-ilmenau@djh 202 358; www.ilmenau.de; % % ( (

6590; www.hotel-tanne-thueringen 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) THURINGIAN FOREST •• Ilmenau % (

h DJH hostel tourist office is 2km east of the train station off is 2km east of ) 03683 / pop 18,000 03677 / pop 27,000 If you’re driving, take the Waltershausen/ take driving, If you’re Hotel Tanne about once an trains to Erfurt leave Direct Berghotel rents out mountain bikes for for mountain out Berghotel bikes rents The The hour (€9.10, 1 hour); change in Neudietendorf in Neudietendorf hour (€9.10, 1 hour); change Ilmenau is for Eisenach (€13.40, 1½ hours). via the B88 from Eisenach, the easily reached B4 from Erfurt and the B87 from Weimar. SCHMALKALDEN % valley and up along a broad river Stretching the Thuringian slopes of the southwestern sight not as is at first Schmalkalden Forest, its neigh- as some of pretty picture-book the cen- explore It’s only once you bours. this of charms the real that you discover tre medieval some 17km south of town, located through the forest to Tabarz. Bus 451 runs to Bus 451 to Tabarz. throughthe forest twice on weekdays. Schmalkalden off exit also the A4. The town is Friedrichroda on the B88 to Ilmenau. €8 per day. ILMENAU % a sleepy little town Goethe Ilmenau, visited the Thuringian of on the northern slopes than 28 times in his lifetime. no fewer Forest, it is also the little wonder that It’s therefore to the famous Goethewanderweg gateway Goethe, however, ). Even p276 hiking trail (see once Ilmenau’s of could not halt the decline was active which prosperous mining industry, Today, as well as Goethe’s in the Middle Ages. and wandering spirit (look out for a statue free at the Markt), on a bench him reposing of will find a small student population visitors university. from the technical Lindenstrasse 12; ni Langewiesener Strasse. as sauna,has comforts such solarium and the body after massage facilities to rejuvenate a tough day on the Goetheweg. lonelyplanet.com Getting There & Around 4), a historic (No The Thüringerwaldbahn (€0.90) tram, serves (€3.60) and Tabarz Gotha several The most scenic stretch times hourly. running Friedrichroda, begins right after -thueringen.de; Am Stollen 49; under 26/over 26 €15/18; .de; Lindenstrasse 38; s €55-60, d €75-85, ste €100; serves rooms from €25. and private hotels

) of are are ps Inselsberg Kurtaxe

Although Although (from €14) lonelyplanet.com 200 880; www.villa on the mountain 304 386; Büchig 1; s/d 304 386; Büchig 1; s/d % ( %

( Private rooms

354 4440; reservierung.berghotel@ , home to the Ludowinger the Ludowinger , home to Heuberghaus % (

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation This remarkable three-storey three-storey This remarkable ) , but nor is there a shortage of visi- of a shortage , but nor is there Kurpark p For an easy day excursion into the forest, into the forest, For an easy day excursion In addition to the eating options men- Pension VillaPension Phönix Berghotel Pension Feierabend Pension Just south of the Schloss is the lovely land- the lovely is the Schloss Just south of peak (90 minutes), then take the Inselsberg the Inselsberg then take peak (90 minutes), views from the terrace restaurant (mains (mains restaurant views from the terrace €8 to €20). has many places Hauptstrasse tioned here, – walk along, to satisfy a country hunger a sniff your pick. Virtually all have and take traditional ambience. to the information office. Rooms 8 and 9 are 8 and 9 are Rooms to the information office. especially spacious. s €30, d €45) Strasse 3; -phoenix.de; Tabarzer rises this Phönix up right alongside the road (with weird little balconies), double glazing noise. out the street keep or double doors the It’s bright and friendly, and a cut above serves restaurant The midrange meat rest. dishes. and vegetarian t-online.de; Bergstrasse 1; s €50-57, d €77-91; block is an absolute GDR This 1000-bed some still variable; beast. The rooms are have while others GDR furnishings, have But the hill- been overhauled. completely and you can’t beat the top location is great Express bus (€4.50) down to Tabarz and catch and catch bus (€4.50) down to Tabarz Express back to Friedrichroda the Thüringerwaldbahn (€1.20). Sleeping & Eating and hotels of has no shortage Friedrichroda pensions in mid-summer. tors a compulsory one option. There’s €1.20 on all accommodation giving discounts for many sights. impossible to beat house is surely timbered It’s opposite for value, comfort and character. the Kurpark and set back from the main Bahnhof road leading from Friedrichroda An English buyer has since bought it and since boughtbuyer has An English it and its hotel. to reopen plans scaped bub- mineral water excellent spring, where it is of 58m. Much a depth of bles up from the of you can also go to one bottled, but the park and fill up from in pavilions glass the taps. bus Wald-Express the Thüringer you can take (€4.50) to the to the the ridge along hike ridge, €25/40;

, a large , a large Close Encounters of Encounters of Close Schloss Reinhardsbrunn Schloss Reinhardsbrunn 332 00; www.friedrichroda.de; 304 953; tour adult/concession 304 953; tour adult/concession 9am-5pm Mon-Thu, 9am-6pm Fri, 9am-5pm Mon-Thu, % ( %

( plays in the background as plays in the background as h

is in the centre of town. A bank of is in the centre tours 9am-5pm, 9am-4pm Nov-Mar) THURINGIAN FOREST •• Friedrichroda FOREST THURINGIAN

tourist office h 03623 / pop 5500 03623 / In the northern part of town, in the midst town, in the midst In the northern part of

The cave is about a 40-minute walk walk a 40-minute is about The cave

the box p273 . Queen Victoria of England England of . Queen Victoria p273 the box Saxe- Albert of met her cousin, Duke first they married in 1840. here; Coburg-Gotha, (1828), built on the foundations of a me- (1828), built on the foundations of dieval Benedictine founded by monastery see builder Ludwig the Springer; Wartburg of a lavish English park with ancient trees, trees, English park with ancient a lavish of stands the neo-Gothic box, box, p268 ). through the woods from the city centre, and and through the woods from the city centre, (see is also a stop on the Thüringerwaldbahn in the region and beyond. in the region decorate statues of the Virgin Mary and altars and altars Mary the Virgin statuesdecorate of the light gradually brightens, unveiling a a the light gradually brightens, unveiling the crystallised Most of sparkling universe. has been harvestedgypsum here used and to dark, then – just to give you that otherworldly you that otherworldly dark, then – just to give – the theme from feel Kind Third the gypsum cave featuring an underwater lake lake an underwater featuring gypsum cave the in the latter You enter and a crystal grotto. €4/2; Sights & Activities Sights & Activities is the prime attraction Friedrichroda’s Marienglashöhle 9am-noon Sat) actually a tram, see the boxed text p268 ). ). p268 text actually a tram, see the boxed The Marktstrasse 13-15; Reinhardsbrunn north of the centre – both the centre of Reinhardsbrunn north is (which stops for the Thüringerwaldbahn Friedrichroda has two train stations:Friedrichroda Bahn- in the east and Bahnhof Friedrichroda hof tic bath centre and it is also establishing and it is also itself tic bath centre sports. as a location for winter Orientation & Information the development of health and spa tourism. health and the development of The town now has a state-of-the-art therapeu- However, grown again, its popularity has since and infrastructure especially with improved etariat collectively set its sights on Majorca and and setetariat its sights collectively on Majorca even in the 1990s, destinations other beach couldn’t compete. this like resorts picturesque roda was the second-busiest resort town in resort second-busiest roda was the prol- liberated When the freshly GDR days. Dangling down into a valley from wooded a valley from down into Dangling Gotha, Friedrich- 20km south of slopes about FRIEDRICHRODA FRIEDRICHRODA % 274 with an international ATM is in the centre, is in the centre, ATM with an international 35–37. at Hauptstrasse THURINGIA THURINGIA THURINGIA

) 502 9am- p 277 Elisa-

885 571; ( is be- h (a series % ( 471 290; tour

Schloss % served as the the as served (

has a finger in has a finger 10am, noon, 2pm & 4pm Baumbachhaus 446 50; www.meiningen.de; 440 90; Landsberger Strasse h The same people run Music Museum ) 813 838; www.meininger-hotels Das Waschcafé % % ( (

% , a

( 10am-6pm Tue-Sun) Theatermuseum 503 641; www.meiningermuseen.de; adult/ 503 641; www.meiningermuseen.de; , a small literature museum (in- , a small literature h % 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat) ( h tourist office art collection displays some of the 275 original stage the 275 original stage displays some of A combined ticket for the Schloss and the for the Schloss A combined ticket The Schloss Landsberg The nearby wing it has neo-Renaissance and other revival- is a medieval Inside and Renais- ist features. sance to the musical dedicated rooms that are of and Hofkapelle), Meininger the of directors just down the road is the 848; Burggasse 2) adult/concession €2.50/1.50; Tue-Sun) the Mein- backdrops from the early days of set designs and of sketches Theater, inger II, and historic costumes drawn by Georg well-known actors. of photographs museums costs €5/3. Sleeping & Eating Gasthof Schlundhaus €100; Schlundgasse 4; s €55, d €80, ste -mit-flair.de; in a Rustic-style rooms with new furnishings this a comfortable place to make historic hotel is worthy, well-priced The restaurant repose. had the someone where and is apparently Thuringian potato inventing of brainwave dumplings. 150; s €95, d €120-150; castle converted It is a genuine this place. on the northern into a fabulous luxury hotel town. of edge Orientation & Information Orientation & Information the English the west and to The Schlosspark town Meiningen’s north fringe Garden to the on the bus stations The train and are centre. Garden, which the English side of eastern Signs Theatre. also contains the Meiningen stationnear the train the English point across on Markt, the tourist office Garden towards and banks. office with a post www.das-waschcafé.de; Anton-Ulrich-Strasse 49; noon & 2-10pm Mon-Fri, 2-10pm Sat) Sights late-17th-century The lavish bethenburg concession €3/2; 1918, and in addition to until ducal residence the main of central floors the pure-baroque cluded in admission to the Schloss). Markt 14; many pies – being both a café and a travel a café and a travel many pies – being both access. and with internet agency, hind the Stadtkirche. hind the Stadtkirche. This This Just outside the the Just outside ) 403 909; Stiller Gasse 17; % pn 402 661; [email protected]; [email protected]; 402 661; This is the scene of most most This is the scene of THURINGIAN FOREST •• Meiningen 608 970; Lutherplatz 1; mains €6-10; mains €6-10; 1; 608 970; Lutherplatz 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 7pm-2am Fri 7pm-2am & 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu, rents city, touring and moun- rents % ( 466 703; www.thecastle-schmalkalden.de; %

h (

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10am-midnight Sun-Thu, 10am-1am Fri & Sat) Sun-Thu, 10am-midnight 03693 / pop 22,000 Maykel’s Anschütz Fahrrad Teichhotel the dukes of Saxe-Meiningen. It owes its It owes its Saxe-Meiningen. of the dukes to cultural centre as a regional reputation (1826–1914), II Georg Duke the vision of theatre who in 1866 founded a resident productions in far-flung troupe that staged Moscow and London, and is said to be the Com- the Royal Shakespeare of forerunner the court II also catapulted pany. Georg ) to Hofkapelle (the Meininger orchestra fame by appointing pianist- international von Bülow as musical direc- conductor Hans passed Strauss tor; the baton later Richard to in festival The annual theatre Reger. and Max at home spring has an excellent reputation and abroad. happy. h does tasty and restaurant café-bar relaxed for vegetarians. dishes, including some Drinking & Entertainment The Castle Schlossberg 1b; Sat, also Sun May-Oct) night-time in town. A young-ish happenings and in sum- in winter, indoors crowd gathers into the yard. mer spills outdoors Getting There & Around require 1¾ hours) Trains to Erfurt (€25, in Wernshausen and Eisenach. Sch- changes the B19, which 5km east of malkalden is about connects Eisenach and Meiningen. bikes per day €5-10) trail bike The 23km Mommelstein tain bikes. follows a former railway line and some forest trails through a tunnel and viaduct, and past the big sights can help). (the tourist office MEININGEN % Tranquil, idyllic and blessed with vast ex- is one the Meiningen parkland, panses of with rural glistening nicest towns in a region about River on the Werra It is situated gems. between the Schmalkalden, 30km south of and the RhönThuringian Forest moun- of and is the former residence tain range, lonelyplanet.com 21; s/d €42/70; Teichstrasse comfort- has plain but Altstadt, this hotel servesThe restaurant able rooms. well-priced bikers and hikers the keep to hearty fare Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation , This 10am-5pm 10am-5pm Wayfarer’s Wayfarer’s h 03677-202 667; 03677-202 667; lonelyplanet.com % ( 00 1 mile 2 km 604 514; www.stadthotel % ( 03677-202 034; Kickelhahn 1) % ( Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation ILMENAU Herzogröder Wiesen Parking memorial exhibit memorial Amtshaus Kickelhahn (861m) Jagdhaus Gabelbach Berggasthaus Kickelhahn 202 626; adult/concession €2/1.50; 202 626; adult/concession €2/1.50; features the rooms (still originally furnished) furnished) the rooms (still originally features -patrizier.de; Weidebrunner Gasse 9; s €41-52, d €72-98) -patrizier.de; comfortable and well run, and is very hotel a nice place to stay. The restaurant, provides options around, is in a vaulted the best one of cellar and opens for dinner on weekdays, (mains and dinner on weekends and lunch €9 to €32). Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating Stadthotel Patrizier % ( Schlossberg Grosser Hermannstein Goethehaus Schwalbenstein . 403 Kickelhahn (861m) begins. Near the top, you’ll pass the Kickelhahn Near the top, you’ll pass the (861m) begins.

Goethehäuschen

% 036784-502 77) ( Berggasthaus Kickelhahn Berggasthaus % 10am-5pm Apr- ( , a hunting lodge and former guesthouse with exhibits on guesthouse with exhibits on , a hunting lodge and former

Manebach h Neue Hütte Stützerbach Jagdhaus Gabelbach Jagdhaus Gabelbach 9am-noon, 1-4.30pm) h Emmasteinfelsen . At the top is a restaurant, the top is a restaurant, . At will thrill both kids and the technically will thrill both kids and the technically Goethe-Museum Stützerbach THURINGIAN FOREST •• Schmalkalden FOREST THURINGIAN The trail descends to The The starting point is the Amtshaus, a subdued baroque structure on the Markt that was Goethe’s startingThe was Goethe’s on the Markt that baroque structure is the Amtshaus, a subdued point From here the trail heads west via the Schwalbenstein and Emmasteinfelsen peaks to the village peaks to the village and Emmasteinfelsen heads west via the Schwalbenstein the trail From here Check with the tourist office (or online at www.rennsteig-bus.de) about the No 300 bus service (or online at www.rennsteig-bus.de) Check with the tourist office and a lookout tower with views over the great green blanket of the Thuringian Forest. blanket of the Thuringian green the great views over and a lookout tower with Night Song Ilmenau home, where five rooms have been turned into a been have rooms five where Ilmenau home, GOETHEWANDERWEG GOETHEWANDERWEG Johann Wolf- of day hike18.5km in the footsteps follows challenging, and at times lovely, This Duke of August, employ of Carl around Ilmenau in the who spent much time gang von Goethe, in between; everything climbs and steep terrain, forest hike encompasses level The Saxe-Weimar. 1:30,000 hiking An excellent by map ‘G’ in Goethe’s own handwriting. it’s marked with the letter office (€4). is available at the tourist Grünes Herz the famous poem Goethe wrote where cabin, Goethehäuschen, forest of the little replica of Manebach, where the steep climb up the the steep of Manebach, where back to Ilmenau. You can also walk directly to the Kickelhahn walk directly back to Ilmenau. You can also Manebach, from Ilmenau, bypassing to the parking up Waldstrasse Or you can drive Wiesen, lot at Herzogröder in about 1½ hours. uphill walk to the Kickelhahn it’s a 25-minute from where peak. Goethe’s scientific research. From here, it meanders south to the village of Stützerbach, where where it meanders south to the village of Stützerbach, From here, Goethe’s scientific research. the to stay and work. Goethe used where adult/concession €1/0.50; Sat & sun Apr-Oct, 11am-3pm Nov-Mar) About 6km north of town, 6km north of About

turbines and other industrial knick-knacks. minded. One of the few surviving the few minded. One of 19th-century smelting plants in Europe, it has a waterwheel, 018; Gothaer Strasse; adult/concession €2/1; Oct only) town (weekdays can only; the tourist office help with times). from where there are bus services are there back to from where 276 THURINGIA THURINGIA THURINGIA

. , 279 Goethe . Optisches . There’s . There’s 9am-6pm) (cnr Teichgraben & (cnr Teichgraben

Botanical Garden h . He also discovered also discovered . He in the little wooden 11am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct)11am-5pm Tue-Sun 931 188; Schillergässchen 2; h 11am-3pm Wed-Sun Apr-Oct) % (

949 009; Fürstengraben 26; adult/ 949 009; Fürstengraben Anatomieturm h Wallenstein % (

443 165; Carl-Zeiss-Platz 12; adult/concession 443 165; Carl-Zeiss-Platz Wilhelm Meister , a former fortification tower. Most Most tower. , a former fortification % ( 10am-4.30pm Tue-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat)

Gartenhaus outside the museum, designed by Bel- and h 949 274; adult/concession €2/1; Their life stories and the evolution of opti- the evolution stories and Their life of Goethe is also credited with bringing with bringing is also credited Goethe % shack in the garden, where he also liked to wax to wax he also liked shack in the garden, where philosophical with Goethe. CARL ZEISS & ERNST ABBE These scientists are two Zeiss on the map. opened his helped put Jena more notables who in 1846 and began workshop here mechanical building rudimentary microscopes. With Ab- be’s help from 1866, he developed the first In cooperation with scientific microscope. Glasswerke, Jenaer the founder of Otto Schott, optical pre- of the production they pioneered to global cision instruments, propelling Jena prominence in the early 20th century. the the themes of are cal technology Museum €5/4; microscopes, cam- collection of an interesting Polaroid from 1948), eras (including a chunky spectacles other optical instru- and various the peep (originally ments. Don’t miss shows and the like) landscapes magnified painted on painted images and the magic lantern An to film projection. as a forerunner glass and pamphlet is available, English-language Zeiss the reconstructed of tours are there The octagonal workshop (1866) next door. pavilion van de Velde, Henry artist gian Art Nouveau from 1911 and containsdates a marble bust Abbe. of busy regulating the flow of the Saale, build- the of the flow busy regulating the botanical designing or garden ing streets, he crafted library, cataloguing the university Faust jawbone while researching central the obscure the anatomy in Leutragraben) in what is now the the time he lived of Gedenkstätte focuses as a which on his accomplishments natural scientist, poet Goethe and politician. just east of himself tree the ginkgo planted the is part of which here, ( A plaque near the University. to Jena Schiller his gave Schiller marks where headquarters and stayed for Jena liked He inaugural lecture. else – mostly than anywhere – longer 10 years in the adult/concession €2.50/1.30; wrote Schiller concession €1/0.50; , , a (€3;

of are are which which (10am-1pm

statue Goethe Galerie

(Füstengraben 1) Zeiss optics factory Intershop tower 10am-5pm Tue, Wed & Fri, Wed & 2-10pm 10am-5pm Tue, Here you will find an in- Here 359 80; www.stadtmuseum.jena.de; headquarters Stadtmuseum & Kunstsammlung Stadtmuseum h •• Jena THE SAALE VALLEY is the city’s most conspicu- Stadtkirche St Michael % (

11am-midnight) The university The university A walkway beneath the museum leads museumA walkway beneath the leads in Jena, Visible from almost everywhere The square is anchored by a by is anchored The square now part of the university. Several the university. buildings now part of with dotted wrap around Ernst-Abbe-Platz, abstract sculptures by Frank Stella; the copies by Frank Stella; abstract sculptures the main in the lobby of antique sculptures of aesthetically pleas- a little more building are the ing. The campus borders mall. shopping split-level glass high-tech in a century-old complex on the northeastern a Minerva the Altstadt. Inside are of edge bust by Rodin and a wall-sized painting show- students going off to fight against ing Jena Napoleon. GOETHE & SCHILLER Saxe-Weimar, elector of for the minister As Goethe spent five years in Jena. When not in Jena. Goethe years spent five end contains the der Stadt Jena €4/2; adult/concession Sat & Sun). Thu, 11am-6pm on themes history collection regional teresting as wine-making, the Reformation as diverse and student fraternities. to the Gothic & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat May-Sep) also tombstone of contains the original engraved passage has a subterranean Luther and Martin right under the altar. the 128m-tall cylindrical h 1970s, the medievalous building. In the early this room for was razed to make Eichplatz behemoth, built as a Zeiss research concrete unsuitable, and the building facility. It proved receiving languished for some time before with an facelift and reopening a complete observation platform and a good restaurant ). p280 (see UNIVERSITÄT JENA was founded as Collegium university Jena’s in in 1558, in a former monastery Jenense the campus today, Kollegiengasse. Still part of with a nice courtyard festooned it features I. North Friedrich Johann arms of the coat of urban re- in an excellent example of here, of engineering, is the former lonelyplanet.com founder I, Friedrich Johann Prince-Elector popularly known as and university Jena’s of building with the The handsome ‘Hanfried’. half-timbered upper section at the western lonelyplanet.com still reflects a measure a measure still reflects 414 330; www.jenah.de; (1380), with an astro- 806 400; www.jena.de; % ( % 9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am- Markt 01801-679 679; Ludwig- ( Rathaus h % (Engelplatz 8) 1pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 1pm-1am 1pm-midnight Mon-Thu, ( Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation h 810; Anger 30) 357 352; www.café-c.net; Teutonengasse 2; Teutonengasse 357 352; www.café-c.net; % % ( ( Culturally, Jena can be a beguiling town, can be a beguiling town, Culturally, Jena of the city’s medieval At its southern heritage. of end stands the Every nomical clock in its baroque tower. hour, on the hour, a little door opens and a trying devil/fool appears, called Schnapphans the human a golden ball (representing to catch him. soul) that dangles in front of JeNah Service Centre Main post office Police Sparkasse Jena Tourist information Sights AROUND THE MARKT time and developers’ the forces of Despite Jena’s bulldozers, relating to this tradition, which continues continues which to this tradition, relating Carltoday through like corporations Zeiss Jenoptik. Glaswerk and Jenaer Schott Jena, Orientation within walking all main attractions are Jena’s two main are There other. each distance of (Westbahnhof), West train stations: Jena in next to the Paradies the southwest, and Jena and the main near the centre Saale River, stationbus station. north The Saalbahnhof used. town is rarely of Information C-Net and science in the region. The architecture The architecture region. in the and science work is continuing but be patchy, can here its historic buildings, of on the restoration and once-ugly Intershop and even the large up from the Altstadttower rising has been into something from an eye-sore transformed an attraction. of them) of (some 20,000 with the students Science buffs atmosphere. a lively creating in connection with the devel- will know Jena and technology optical precision opment of and Otto Carlnames like Zeiss, Ernst Abbe museums several interesting are There Schott. Holzmarktpassage) Transport information and local information. Johannisstrasse 23; 4pm Sat, 11am-3pm Sun Apr-Oct, Mon-Fri, 9.30am-7pm 9.30am-3pm Sat Nov-Mar) Weimar-Gasse) Bank with ATM. per 30min €2; Fri, 11am-1am Sat, 11am-midnight Sun) Internet access. Entrance on Grietgasse. ; ) This This 4510; www pn , with a very , with a very % ( and the more and the more

470 444; www.studio2.de; housed in what was housed in what was

4570; www.saechsischerhof % (

% (

(www.elanclub.de; Bernhardstrasse 1) 881 036; Schloss Elisabethenburg; food 881 036; Schloss Elisabethenburg; Studio2 from 10pm Wed, Fri & Sat) % (

Das Meininger Theater Elanclub

THE SAALE VALLEY •• Jena •• VALLEY SAALE THE

Over-the-top in all ways, this baroque in all ways, Over-the-top 03641 / pop 100,000 Turmcafé

The Clubs worth the short trot on the right Sächsischer Hof Sächsischer

versity town of Jena is a landmark of culture culture is a landmark of Jena town of versity % the uni- Weimar, about 23km east of Located THE SAALE VALLEY THE SAALE VALLEY JENA Schweinfurt in Bavaria, and is also on the B89 is also on the B89 in Bavaria, and Schweinfurt in southern Thuringia. to Sonneberg and other towns in the Thuringian Forest. and other towns in the Thuringian Forest. is on the B19 from Eisenach to Meiningen (€15, 1¾ hours). Regular buses and trains link (€15, 1¾ hours). Zella-Mehlis with Schmalkalden, Meiningen Getting There & Away Getting There & Away to Erfurt every two hours trains travel Direct the greenery of the English Garden. of the greenery .das-meininger-theater.de; Bernhardsstrasse 5) .das-meininger-theater.de; strong classical focus on Goethe, and Schiller European names, is always worth a trot among Steinweg 28; serious night include sischer Hof’s wine cellar, low-life options are are options wine cellar, low-life Hof’s sischer not all that forthcoming in Meiningen. Apart from reaching too deeply too into the Säch- Apart from reaching café in the Hesse Room high has in the Schloss café in the Hesse or soup and salad. and cake, coffee lovely Entertainment is upmarket and Mediterranean in flavour. in flavour. and Mediterranean is upmarket different the 280 of Dip into one or more servedwines in the cellar – they’re in both restaurants. 11am to 2pm Sunday), postalonce the building for keeping coaches, to €21, 3- to 6-course menus €29 to €51, menus €29 to €51, to €21, 3- to 6-course open 5pm to midnight Tuesday to Saturday, local specialities and a couple of vegetarian vegetarian couple of local specialities and a (mains €15 the Posthalterei dishes, whereas the Kutscherstube (mains €8 to €15, open open (mains €8 to €15, the Kutscherstube and 5pm-midnight)11am to 2pm serves even if the bathrooms are a trifle small. a trifle small. even are if the bathrooms restaurants: two dynamite has The hotel 200-year-old full-service200-year-old a destination inn is in itself. spacious, standard The rooms are ante-rooms), (most have palatial are others .com; Georgstrasse d €110-140; 1; s €78-102, 278

€2-5) see for events. their websites THURINGIA THURINGIA THURINGIA

is is 429 429 281 % ( Spielhaus , where , where

Rudolstadt Rudolstadt 313 610; www 414 743; www % % ( (

9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am- Stadtkirche St Andreas 1-6pm Wed-Sat) h h 411 451; Schwarzburger Chaussee This DJH-affiliated guest This DJH-affiliated guest ) Schloss Heidecksburg , a small German-language , a small German-language tourist office % (

(meaning ‘Anchor’), a classic (meaning ‘Anchor’), ni Anker is just west of the Markt. is just west of 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct,10am-6pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar) 10am-5pm 03672 / pop 26,000 03672 / The tourist office publishes Jugendgästehaus Rudolstadt Rudolstadt’s The baroque 1pm Sat) its and collections of paintings, weapons and its and collections of the palace’s best features, minerals. Perhaps the val- view over a terrific free: though, are porcelain (usually ley, the local decorative office and, hall with figurines) in the ticket especially, the fantastic by the wooden sleighs uphill walk from It’s a 10-minute entrance. the central Markt. und seine Ecken map with 16 sights to help visi- brochure the town on their own. The sec- explore tors call is the ond port of rich a Gothic hall-church on Kirchgasse, will kids The final one (which treasure. in is the obviously want to do first!) Richtersche Villa 74; adult/child €2.50/1.50; buildings in turn- you can fashion miniature of-the-19th-century style using stone bricks called German plaything. Sleeping & Eating located hotels Rudolstadt has only a couple of books The tourist office in or near the centre. €18). about rooms (from and private hotel Schillerstrasse 50; dm under 26/over 26 .froebelhaus.org; €15.50/19.50; house in the Altstadt and rents is located for €5 per day to guests. bikes RUDOLSTADT RUDOLSTADT % at first station,With its crumbling Rudolstadt up with its catching it is still like glance looks this, until No less endearing for own history. the princes of the main residence 1918 it was and had its hey- Schwarzburg-Rudolstadt, of 18th-century Enlightenment. day during the for the In 1788 Goethe met here Schiller and founded in The Rudolstadt time. theatre, first Liszt, Wagner and Paganini 1793 and where is still putting on performances all worked, however,today. The prime attraction, is a town. baroque castle high above .rudolstadt.de; Marktstrasse 57; h bluff. lofty a hulking edifice on a Besides and furnished rooms, the decorated lavishly history exhib- regional complex also harbours 00; www.heidecksburg.de; adult/concession €4.50/2.50; €4.50/2.50; adult/concession 00; www.heidecksburg.de;

Steps gardens Fahrrad 036427-222 Rococo Palace %

( 458 888. rents bikes for €15 bikes rents % 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct10am-6pm Tue-Sun h 931 190; Johannisstrasse 13) 931 190; Johannisstrasse •• Around Jena THE SAALE VALLEY Renaissance Palace % ( 558 10; www.f-haus.de; Johannisplatz 14) 558 10; www.f-haus.de;

are open year-round. are , blends Romanesque, late-Gothic, , blends Romanesque, late-Gothic, % 441 539; Löbdegraben 8) (

% ( 8am-dusk) , where Goethe soughtthe , where solitude after Jena is just north of the A4 from Dresden the A4 from Dresden is just north of Jena After restoration, the attractive the attractive restoration, After to Paradies Trains go hourly from Jena F-Haus Rosenkeller h 91; adult/concession €2/1.50; only) in to visitors to open its doors is scheduled the triumvirate, 2006. The third in this late Altes Schloss Renaissance and baroque elements, and can The only be viewed from the outside. ( it’s from where (€2.80, 15 minutes), Dornburg uphill. climb 20- to 30-minute a steep Linked to the university, serious student club- to the university, Linked events (and bowl- programme of a full get bers from Krautgasse. Enter ing) here. Getting There & Away from ICE trains go to Berlin-Hauptbahnhof and Hamburg- hours) (€47, 2½ Jena-Paradies or Jena-West Altona either from Jena-Paradies services Half-hourly regional (€87, 1½ hours). to Rudolstadt go 45 (€6.20, from Jena-Paradies To 50 minutes). (€7.60, and Saalfeld minutes) and Erfurt to Weimar (€4.60, 15 minutes) get West. you must go to Jena (€7.50, 30 minutes), ) can work out p251 (see The Hopper-Ticket cheaper. the A9 from to Frankfurt, and just west of Berlinalso crossed It’s to Munich. by the B7 (east–west) and B88 (north–south). Getting Around on buses and trams cost Individual tickets Day passes valid for one hour. €1.50 and are cost €3.80. For a taxi, call Kirscht day and €5 thereafter. for the first AROUND JENA the Saale River above Dornburger Schlösser plateau a on Perched these palaces make Jena, about 15km north of The south- in summer. a pleasant excursion ernmost is the lonelyplanet.com the up among even a table-for-four There’s staircase. the iron spiral at the top of plants a net- student club with away, this historic party concerts and live offers cellars work of nights. death of his patron, Duke CarlAugust. The his patron, Duke death of more been restored rooms he stayed in have to their 1828 state. or less Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation 8000; www Vegetar- % (

With wooden lonelyplanet.com Gaze over the pan- the Gaze over Psychologists have have Psychologists ) This is the best address for This is the best address 827 171; Wagnergasse 2; 8.30am-1am 443 221; www.jembo.de; Holzmarkt Holzmarkt 443 221; www.jembo.de; This historic restaurant- 443 154; Unterm Markt 3; cakes €3- 9am-10pm Mon-Sat) 8000; Goethe Galerie; mains €5-22; % pna %

441 566; Oberlauengasse 19; mains €9- ( % ( 11am-midnight) (

If you can find the book you you If you can find the book

h % ( Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com at online Book accommodation 356 666; www.scala-jena.de; Intershop-Tower; Intershop-Tower; 356 666; www.scala-jena.de; % ( h

% (

from 10.30am) 8am-6pm) 10am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun) h Scala Roter Hirsch Café Stilbruch Rotonda Zur Noll Steigenberger Hotel Esplanade h Drinking & Entertainment Drinking & Entertainment on the ‘pub mile’ is along Wagnergasse, Jena’s Stroll the city centre. of edge northwestern your pick. along and take Mon-Fri, 9am-late Sat & Sun) and salads. a tipple or for delicious bistro fare 17; pub serves the best and most varied some of German food in town. Its garlic soup is a de- such and offerings licious culinary interlude as a suckling-pig buffet soar to unexpected heights. The patio out the back is another to come here. reason while sipping optic landscape around Jena, decent international wine and downing very Other tower cuisine in this tower restaurant. are may be higher, maybe others restaurants – you can but this has character even better, fine. outside if the weather’s even drink coffee Book ahead. 10; mains €5-14; rooms with secluded of panelling, a warren another of and the heady atmosphere corners, is an here ago) the interior 500 years (like age attraction in itself. The menu will satisfy, with hearty local culinary delights. h a €22 three- There’s Esplanade. the Hotel course menu in the evening and other lunch it a highly worthwhile stop- dishes to make is served A brunch every Sunday, with over. piano backing. .jena.steigenberger.de; Carl-Zeiss-Platz 4; s €88-112, d €101- 4; s €88-112, Carl-Zeiss-Platz .jena.steigenberger.de; 162, ste €127-600; therapy (it has for exposure here the 7th floor – low note toddlers of – parents a glass lift and class, espe- It’s got lots of walkway railings). a light feel. breezy and have cially as rooms Eating Literaten-Café 4; café- this remarkable want, it will cost €1 in seating. upstairs with cum-bookstore mains €15-25; been known to bring vertigo sufferers up to up to sufferers been to bring vertigo known ians will love the lunchtime salad the lunchtime or evening ians will love place, part of antipasto buffet in this stylish 498 Wish Wish %

( ) The main 666 688; www . p 885 488; www 885 488; % ) In a historic This hotel is is This hotel ( 8130; www.ibishotel ) music festival music festival % ( p ) % Purpose-built and Purpose-built (from €20)

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520 50; www.zur-schweiz 687 230; jugendgaestehaus 292 90; www.thueringerhof p pn Kulturarena Jena % 597 710; www.zur-noll.de; Ober- % ( %

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% ( . Its opening hours follow a hours . Its opening private rooms Zeiss Planetarium THE SAALE VALLEY •• Jena •• VALLEY SAALE THE

housesworld’s oldest public plan- the This convenient and pretty camp site is camp site and pretty This convenient The mortal shell is the original GDR ) Gasthof Zur Schweiz Hotel Thüringer Hof

Gasthaus zur Noll Ibis Hotel City am Holzmarkt Campingplatz Unter dem Jenzig The The IB Jugendgästehaus

ter. It’s a good choice (see right ). right (see It’s a good choice ter. hotel has elegant furnishings and fine charac- has elegant furnishings hotel plastic with pseudo-decking. lauengasse 19; s €60-70, d €70-90; interesting works of functional art – moulded works of interesting .com; Teichgraben 1; s/d €62/71; .com; Teichgraben is right hotel new, this chain still relatively sights. The bathrooms are among the major advantage of this hotel – where the rooms are the rooms are – where this hotel of advantage otherwise fairly standard for the price – is that from Jena crawl for the weary it’s just a short West station. -jena.de; Westbahnhofstrasse-jena.de; 8; s/d €45/62; 1970s exterior, and is not the most aesthetic, 1970s exterior, and near is outside the centre but this hostel bus 10, 11, 33 or 40 to Mühlen- Take forest. strasse. [email protected]; 9; s/d €26/38; Am Herrenberge p .jenacamping.de; Am Erlkönig 3; adult/child €4/2, car €3, tent €2-3) The tourist office runs a free reservationThe tourist office runs a free service and for hotels Sleeping Sleeping with all kinds of music from blues and rock with all kinds of and jazz. to classic 060; www.jenaonline.de/kulturarena) year; it’s jam-packed from July to August each Festivals & Events & EventsFestivals Not to be missed is the You Were Here A combined ticket varying event schedule. Museumfor the Optical and planetarium is concession. €9 for adults or €7 with such as one basedsuch on Pink Floyd’s album €6/5) .planetarium-jena.de; Am Planetarium 5; adult/concession 280 3km north of town. 3km north of etarium (1926). Today it boasts a huge state- etariuma huge (1926). Today it boasts of-the-art and does telescope cosmic shows, .de; Quergasse 15; s/d €48/68; unassuming but well managed and comfort- but well managed unassuming vary from period to Room furnishings able. the main just off modern. It’s situated more mile. nightlife building, but thoroughly modern inside, this THURINGIA THURINGIA THURINGIA .de; Markt 6; .de; Markt .feengrotten.de; touradult/concession €6.50/4; underground These Feengrotten altarpieces. local late-Gothic carved andthecollection ofcelestial buildingitself, h .museumimkloster.de; Münzplatz5;adult/concession€4/2.50; now hometothe uphill totheformerFranciscanmonastery, the Baptist. figurevaulting, plusalife-size of carved John hall-church features dramaticcross-and-net 1-5pmSat&Sun) Fri, Johanniskirche former townhallandapharmacysince1681. is thepartlyRomanesque its spiked turrets andornate gables.Opposite Markt, isthestrikingRenaissance century hof, (andcanclimb)the15th- youpassthrough stroll. Ifyouenter townfromtheHauptbahn- caneasilybecoveredThe Altstadt onabrief Sights and the River, abouta10-minute walkfromtheMarkt (Fairy Grottoes). popular naturalattractions,theFeengrotten centre andishometooneof Thuringia’smost over amillennium.Ithasanattractive historic River, about15kmsouthof for Rudolstadt, Saalfeld has nestledquietlyalongsidetheSaale % SAALFELD to Weimar. IlmenauandJena,B88 between andtheB85 minutes). isonthe (€1.80, eight Rudolstadt change twicehourly inSaalfeld, which isserved 30 minutes). trainsrequire Long-distance a toJena (€6.20, There isanhourlytrainservice &Away There Getting well asacoupleof vegetarian choices. goodtraditionaldishes, as 4pm Sunday)serves open 11amto10pmTuesdaySaturday, from 1512.Therestaurant (mains€6.50to€11, roomsinastonebuildingdating hotel haslight 17;s€50,d€80-90) Markt 282 The Hauptbahnhof iseastof theSaale Adler Hotel Brudergasse, westof theMarkt, leads Markt,Behind thetwintowers of theGothic 03671 /pop28,000 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) THE SAALEVALLEY ••Saalfeld Saaltor tourist office tourist h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pmSat) 9am-6pm Mon-Fri,

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( % % (towngate). Justwestof here on rise into view. This enormous intoview.Thisenormous rise 2784; Kirchplatz 2; 2784; Kirchplatz 4403; www.hotel-adler-rudolstadt.de; 4403; www.hotel-adler-rudolstadt.de; Situated onMarkt, right this Stadtmuseum . Itsmajor allure isthe

( % grottoes 522 181;www.saalfeld-info Marktapotheke

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( % % 11am-4pm Mon- Rathaus 598 471;www 550 40;www . h 9am- , the , the , with , with operated by the German Red Cross. Guests RedCross.Guests operated by theGerman of allkinds. evening. orendan bistro-pub isagoodplacetostart other optionstoo,butthiscosy,ceramic-tiled hotel-restaurant you hasalmosteverything 25/26;s€47-60,d€74-90; Am Markt 6pm and8pm. shouldreport between without reservations drk-saalfeld.de; 4;dm€15) AmSchieferhof and the Accommodation iscomparatively inexpensive, Sleeping &Eating days at10°Cand98%humidity. chairs bag)instintshere (inasleeping over 10 allergies –somepeoplesitaroundondeck andits HolyGrailCastle. Cathedral tale Blue-Green Grotto. istheFairy- Thehighlight of withnameslikeand grottoes, Butter Cellar add toabizarre andsubtlyimpressive series Small stalactite andstalagmite formations an occasionalsprinklingof green andblue. ent shades of brown,ochre andsienna,with but‘colour’heretoes, refers mostlytodiffer- Records astheworld’smostcolourfulgrot- In 1993theyentered theGuinness Bookof were1850) these openedfortours in1914. Formerly alumslate mines(from1530to Sun Novonly) 10am-3.30pmDec-Feb, 10am-3.30pmSat&5pm Mar-Oct, routes B281andB85 fromWeimaror Jena. three hours). Saalfeld lies attheintersection of connection toBerlin-Hauptbahnhof (€54, Jena (€7.60,50minutes). There’s alsoanICE minutes) (€1.80, eight andhourlytostadt Regional trainsruntwicehourlyto Rudol- &Away There Getting 2.30pm Sun) 9am-2.30pm&6pm-midnightSat,9am- midnight Mon-Fri, -pappenheimer.de; Fleischgasse5;mains€6.80-11; the leafySaaleRiver. cream and coffee onabackterrace overlooking h to €16). traditional dishes, including game(€8 serve andtworestaurantshas asmalltable) that cially intheolderbuilding,where each room Ithassomevery rooms(espe- need. pleasant Zum Pappenheimer Zum Sächsische Kaffeestube Anker Hotel Jugendwanderheim The cave tohelppeopleovercome airissaid 10am-7pm) tourist office tourist Explore thecentre foracoupleof are Saalfeld’s primeattraction. Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com This is the place for delicious ice Thisistheplacefordeliciousice

( % 5990; www.hotel-anker-saalfeld.de; 5990; www.hotel-anker-saalfeld.de;

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( ( % % 517 320;wanderheim@ p 330 89;www.zum 2944; Saalstrasse62; can book rooms can bookrooms lonelyplanet.com This gracious Thisgracious This hostel is Thishostel is ) h 8am- lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above-‘Doright thetermsandconditionsonoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,massemailitto only. Inotherwords,pleasedon’tuploadthischaptertoapeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfairtoaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercialpurposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,accessthischapter isnotdigitally Tomake

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