Romantic Travel Through Bartlett's Engravings
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Hussein I. El-Mudarris and Olivier Salmon H J J K Romantic Travel through Bartlett’s Engravings From Europe to the Middle East H J J K Design: Hussein I. El-Mudarris and Olivier Salmon Photo credits: Hussein I. El-Mudarris and Olivier Salmon All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or any storage and retrieval system, without the prior permission in writing from the authors. Any person who does any unauthorized act in relation to this publication may be liable to criminal prosecution and civil claims for damages. © El-Mudarris, 2007 ISBN: 978-9953-13-1795 To my dear friend Dr. Nikolaos van Dam * * We dedicate this book to His Excellency Dr. Nikolaos van Dam, the renowned Arabist and current Ambassador of the Netherlands in Indonesia, who developed a great passion for Syria and the Arab world, ever since he travelled to Syria for the first time in 1964, before working at a later stage in Lebanon, Turkey, Egypt, Germany and other countries. Similar to the way in which the artist Bartlett reveals the similarities between different regions in the world, the Arabist Dr. van Dam succeeds in establishing this precious connection between peoples and cultures through his diplomatic and academic career. TABLE OF CONTENTS Foreword of the Authors …………… 11 Asia Minor …………………………… 67 Adana …………………………………. 68 Preface by Dr. Philip Mansel ……… 13 Tarsus …………………………………… 69 Pompeiopolis ………………………….. 70 Introduction ………………………… 15 Alaya …………………………………… 71 Bartlett’s Life………………………… 15 Bartlett’s Work………………………… 17 Rhodes ………………………………… 73 Bartlett and the Orient………………… 19 Egypt ………………………….……… 76 Alexandria …………………………….. 77 The Netherlands ……………………… 23 Cairo …………………………………… 78 Town Halls …………………………… 23 The Bazaars of Cairo …………………… 81 Amsterdam …………………………… 25 Mosque of Sultan Hassan …………….. 82 Utrecht ……………………………….. 27 Mosque of El-Azhar ………………….. 84 Rotterdam ……………………………. 28 Tomb of Sultan Kaitbay ………………. 85 Nymwegen …………………………… 30 Interior of a House ………………….… 86 The Ferry at Old Cairo ………………… 88 Belgium ……………………………… 31 The Sphinx ………………………….… 89 Town Halls …………………………… 32 The Pyramids ……………………….… 90 Bruges ………………………………… 34 Valley of the Tombs of the Kings ……… 92 Ghent ………………………………… 35 Plain of Thebes ……………………….. 94 Brussels ……………………………… 36 Karnak ………………………………… 95 Namur ………………………………… 40 Philæ ………………………………….. 97 Liege ………………………………… 42 Palestine ……………………………… 99 Along the Danube …………………… 43 Cæsarea ……………………………….. 101 Ulm …………………………………... 44 Jaffa …………………………………… 102 Ratisbon ……………………………… 45 Acre …………………………………… 104 Passau ………………………………… 46 Mount Carmel ………………………… 106 Austria ……………………………….. 47 Jerusalem …………………….………… 108 Vienna ………………………………… 49 Tower of Hippicus …………………… 109 Central and Eastern Europe ………….. 50 Gethsemane …………………………… 110 Tomb of the Virgin ……………….…… 111 Constantinople ……………………… 51 Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives .… 112 The Bosphorus ………………………. 52 The Mount of Olives from Jerusalem … 115 Scutari …………………………….…. 58 Pool of Siloam ………………………… 116 Pera …………………………………… 59 Pool of Hezekiah ……………………… 117 Fountains ………………………….…. 60 Pool of Gihon …………………………. 118 Mosques ……………………………… 62 The Holy Sepulchre …………………… 119 The Bazaars of Constantinople ……… 64 Basilica at Bethlehem …………………. 119 Lebanon ………………………………….. 121 Tyre ………………………………………. 121 Sidon ……………………………………… 124 Visit to Lady Hester Stanhope …………… 126 Beiteddine ………………………………… 127 Beirut ……………………………………… 128 Tripoli ……………………………………. 129 Mount Lebanon …………………………… 130 Bisharri and Ehden …………………………132 Cedars of Lebanon …………………………134 Baalbec …………………………………… 136 Ras el-Ain ………………………………… 139 Syria ……………………………………… 141 Zebdané …………………………………… 142 Damascus …………………………………. 143 A Turkish Divan at Damascus ……………. 146 The Bazaars of Damascus ………………… 147 Visit to a Mullah at Damascus ……………. 150 Tartus and Arwad ………………………… 154 Suwadiyeh ………………………………… 156 Seleucia …………………………………… 158 Daphne …………………………………… 160 Antioch …………………………………… 161 Pass of Beilan ………………………………166 Alexandretta and Issus ……………………. 168 List of illustrations ……………………… 171 10 11 Foreword of the Authors The genesis of this book stems from the wish of the public to see in a single volume Bartlett’s beautiful engravings so much admired during the exhibition organised in Aleppo in June 2007. Copies of Bartlett’s books are difficult to find and often conserved in private libraries. Our purpose is to open our libraries so that everyone can admire Bartlett’s drawings. Picturesque and Romantic are certainly the words which appear most often in Bartlett’s books and are very appropriate to characterize his art. Looking artistically at landscapes, monuments and scenes of everyday life as well as revealing their harmonious arrangement through plays of shade and light, such is Bartlett’s ambition through his drawings. Like all travellers in the nineteenth century, Bartlett enriches the description of places with numerous historical and geographical comments; but he always has the honesty to quote his sources. The texts chosen to illustrate the engravings reflect Bartlett’s personality; only anecdotes and extracts expressing the artistic sensibility of the author have been selected. Unfortunately, Bartlett did not write any books about the European part of the Ottoman Empire and only views of the Middle East are accompanied by texts. From his various travels, we created an imaginary itinerary which goes from the Netherlands to Syria through Belgium, Germany, Central and Eastern Europe to Constantinople, then to Rhodes, Egypt, Palestine, Lebanon, Syria, Antioch and Scanderoon situated nowadays in modern Turkey. The original spelling has been conserved – even for place-names – as it does not create any ambiguities. Hussein I. El-Mudarris & Olivier Salmon Acknowledgments We would like to address special thanks to Dr. Philip Mansel for his preface, to Mr. Pierre Antaki for his suggestions and excellent ideas, to Mr. Haitham Kabbani who welcomed this book in his publishing house, to Dr. William Erskine as well as to all those who encouraged us to publish a book after the exhibition. 13 Preface by Dr. Philip Mansel * W. H. Bartlett’s views demonstrate both the affinities, and the contrasts, between western Europe and the Middle East. This English artist, born in London in 1809, admired and recorded every style of monument in the region: not only Pharaonic, classical, Christian and Crusader remains, but also Islamic masterpieces such as the tomb of Sultan Kaitbey in Cairo, which for Bartlett represented the ‘unique invention of Mohammedan art in its highest enrichment’. Because of its documentary value for the Middle East, Bartlett’s work is, today, better known in Aleppo and Beirut than in London. Many of the cities and monuments he depicted have since been transformed or demolished. Bartlett engravings have become part of the heritage of the area. They have been used in Syrian bank notes and hung in many Beirut flats on my first visit there in 1970. This new edition of Bartlett’s books of engravings, by two historians of Aleppo, Hussein I. El-Mudarris and Olivier Salmon, confirms the importance attached to Bartlett in the regions he recorded. On the other hand, the creation of such an encyclopedic visual record by a European, rather than a local, artist confirms the absence or disappearance, in the Middle East, of a tradition of depicting landscapes and buildings. There were no Arab Bartletts. Only later in the nineteenth century did wealthy houses in Damascus and Aleppo begin to be frescoed with landscapes by local artists. Bartlett records a particular moment in the history of the region: he first arrived in 1834, when Ibrahim Pasha, son of the great reformer Mohammed Ali, governor of Egypt, was ruling Syria, conquered from the ottoman sultan Mahmud II three years earlier. Ibrahim Pasha was the first moderniser of Syria – though Bartlett, like many British officials, disapproved of him, largely because he was pro-French. Bartlett records the beginning of modernisation – a mullah in Damascus asked this English artist to draw his wife. He also shows the tents of Ibrahim Pasha’s army outside Adana in 1839, as he was preparing for his second attack on his nominal suzerain the Ottoman Sultan. Partly due to the intervention of the Great Powers of Europe, the conflict ended with the withdrawal of Ibrahim Pasha. The region remained under Ottoman rule until 1918. Hussein I. El-Mudarris and Olivier Salmon have given back to the region a superb record of its incomparable historical heritage. * Philip Mansel (www.philipmansel.com) is a historian of France and the Ottoman Empire. His books include Constantinople: City of the World’s Desire, which is available in English, French, Greek and Turkish and Sultans in Splendour: Monarchs of the Middle East, which has just been translated into Arabic. He is currently working on a history of the Levant. 15 Bartlett's Life William Henry Bartlett was born in London on March 26, 18091. He was the second child of middle class parents, William and Ann Bartlett. On the 27th March the family moved into a new house in Bartholomew Place in London. William Henry Bartlett was sent to a private school till 1821 and then became apprentice to John Britton, a well-known antiquarian whose reputation had emerged in 1807 when he published the first volume of The Architectural Antiquities of Great Britain. Britton composed many of the forty works on topography, fine art, and architecture which bear his name. He had followed Auguste Charles Pugin's