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LEBANON 0 12 Miles © Lonely Planet 242 0 20 km LEBANON 0 12 miles To Lattakia To Krak des (90km) Chevaliers (10km) S Y R I A Homs Amrit Aabboudiye Aarida Lake al- Nahr Kabir Qattinah M E D I T E R R A N E A N Qoubayet Tell Nabi Halba Mend S E A Akkar al-Atiqa Nahr Al-Mina Qubbet Charbiné Abu Tripoli (Trablous) al-Baddawi Moussa Qalamoun Zgharta Hermel Hermel Qornet Deir Mar Pyramid Enfe Nahr as-Sawda Balamand Horsh Ehden Maroun Chekka Nature Reserve (3090m) r) Al-Qaa Amioun Abu Ali Rive Qubba Ehden es Batroun Bcharré Barzaoun & (Oront Al-Ain Rachana Douma Hasroun R a n g e Nahr The Cedars al-Aasi Amchit Laklouk Byblos Aaqoura Mashnaqa (Jbail) V a l l e y Qartaba L e b a n o n Nahr Ibrahim Qanat M t B e k a a Bakiche Faqra Faraya Talat Musa (2659m) Jounieh Mzaar Baalbek Ajaltoun Jebel Sannine Jeita Grotto (2628m) Baskinta Bikfaya Beit Zaarour Niha BEIRUT Mary Broummana Furzol Rayak Aabadiyé Chtaura Zahlé Baabda Qabb (A n t i - L e b a n o n R a n g e) Elias J e b e l L i b n a n a s h - S h a r q i y y a Deir Damour al-Qamar Aanjar Masnaa S Y R I A Beiteddine Majdel Baaqline Aanjar Moukhtara Joun Chouf Cedar Nahr Reserve Awali Sidon ὈὈal- Lake (Saida) Temple of Qaraoun Echmoun Ghaziye Maghdouche Jezzine DAMASCUS Sarafand Litani Qatana Jebel ash-Sheikh Nahr Hasbaya (Mt Hermon) Nabatiye (2814m) Marjeyun ὈὈBeaufort Khiam Castle Tyre (Sour) Tomb of Area Administered by Syria Hiram Under UN Supervision Qana Kiryat Shmona Mansoura Quneitra Bint River Jbayl Golan Heights Nahariya Jordan I S R A E L & T H E P A L E S T I N I A N T E R R I T O R I E S To Der'a (23km); To Haifa (25km); Sea of Tel Aviv (116km); Ramtha; (35km) Ezra'a Jerusalem (180km) To Jerusalem Galilee Amman (115km) (150km) Sheikh Meskeen 117-getting-started-lebanon-syr3.indd7-getting-started-lebanon-syr3.indd 224242 99/04/2008/04/2008 110:07:250:07:25 AAMM 243 Getting Started in Lebanon Lebanon is the perfect destination for experiencing a rich variety of sights, sounds, cuisines and cultural edifices within an incredibly compact area. It plays host to ancient cities, world-class nightclubs, Mediterranean beaches, labyrinthine medieval souqs and stunning mountain landscapes – all acces- sible, traffic permitting, in just a few hours from the capital, Beirut. If you’re visiting for more than a few days, or combining your visit HOW MUCH? with travel in Syria, see our suggested itineraries ( p17 ). If truly off-the- beaten-track is what you require or you’re short on time, it’s a good idea Postcard LL700 to rent a car, since public transportation outside the main cities can be Newspaper LL2000 patchy and time consuming. For such a small and generally built-up country, it’s remarkably easy to Average museum get away from it all. Trekking parts of the burgeoning Lebanon Mountain admission LL5000 Trail ( p338 ), which takes you along the gorgeous Qadisha Valley floor, will Bottle of local wine ensure that the only buildings you’ll see are ancient rock-cut churches, and LL10,000 the only people a sprinkling of hermit monks and goatherds. One-minute phone call to Though Lebanon is not a particularly budget-friendly destination, UK LL3000 with a little care it’s easy to enjoy the country whatever the thickness of your wallet. LONELY PLANET With youth hostelling and home-stays gradually gaining popularity, INDEX a tighter budget may actually help you to get beneath the skin of the country far better than two weeks of top-end hotels and glittering shop- Litre of petrol LL1300 ping malls. But, if you can stretch to it, a few killer cocktails at one of Litre of bottled water Beirut’s glitziest clubs is a great way to start or end a Lebanese sojourn LL600 in the city’s inimitable style. Bottle of beer in bar/ WHEN TO GO restaurant LL3000 The best time of year to visit Lebanon depends entirely on what you’re Souvenir T-shirt LL8000 intending to do there. If you want to experience the most spectacular Shwarma LL3000 hiking, the perfect time to visit is during spring (March to May). By May, the weather may already be warm enough for a dip in the Mediterranean, and you’ll be able to live the Lebanese cliché of taking to the mountain slopes in the morning and swimming on the coast in the afternoon. DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT… Checking the latest travel advisory warnings (see Staying Safe, p244 ) Getting a new passport if your current one contains an Israeli stamp. Checking the current visa status for Lebanon (see p388 ). Packing something chic if you’re planning a night out in Beirut. Throwing in your hiking boots if you intend to get off the beaten track into Lebanon’s stunning wilderness. 117-getting-started-lebanon-syr3.indd7-getting-started-lebanon-syr3.indd 224343 99/04/2008/04/2008 110:07:420:07:42 AAMM 244 GETTING STARTED IN LEBANON •• When to Go lonelyplanet.com STAYING SAFE Though its recent history has included several lengthy periods of relative calm, Lebanon’s chequered religious, political and social fabric has frequently caused tensions to flare suddenly and violently. Many countries, including the UK, Australia and the USA, currently include Lebanon on their list of countries to which all but essential travel should be avoided. Most specifically, foreign offices advise against travel south of the Nahr Litani (Litani River) and into Palestinian refugee camps, and suggest avoiding all public demonstrations. Despite the bleak warnings, however, if you opt to travel to Lebanon you’ll find warm, welcom- ing people eager to help travellers, and you’ll quickly feel safe and at home. Nevertheless, it’s important to take some precautions, since circumstances can change extremely rapidly: in summer 2006, for example, many travellers suddenly found themselves stranded after Israel’s attacks on the country shut down the international airport and rendered the main highway to the Syrian border impassable. Most crucially, when in Lebanon, keep your eye on the news. Furthermore, try to avoid driving at night (largely due to Lebanon’s hair-raising, headlight-free driving) and take local advice when travelling in the south. If you’re planning on visiting any Palestinian refugee camps, make sure you take a reliable local companion. Recent threats against UN Interim Forces in Lebanon (Unifil) troops have led some to warn against visiting restaurants or other establishments frequented by Unifil staff in Tyre. Likewise, it makes sense to avoid public demonstrations, which can often become heated and unpredictable. It may pay to talk with your embassy in Lebanon if you’re in any doubt as to your safety. Finally, theft is a minor problem, but random crime is far lower than in most Western cities. There has been a spate of motor-scooter bag snatchings, particularly in Beirut, but, as in any large city, you only need exercise normal precautions. Aside from these sensible measures, relax and enjoy all that Lebanon has to offer – before the tourist masses finally come pouring back. The next best time for hiking is during autumn, though if it’s action you’re seeking, beware that it can be extremely quiet: many summer tourist spots will have wound down for the season, while the ski resorts are still oiling their ski lifts. See Climate ( p383 ) for The onset of Ramadan probably won’t affect your travel plans too more information. dramatically in Lebanon, since most towns contain a mixture of Chris- tians and Muslims. Sun seekers will be happy any time between June and September, when the beach clubs of Beirut see almost 24-hour action and barely a cloud intrudes on a sweltering summer sky. Soaring temperatures, how- ever, can make things a bit sticky, while interiors will be very hot and arid. For advice on avoiding sun stroke or dehydration, see the Health To accompany your pre- chapter ( p409 ). departure research, pick Summer is also prime festival season, a time to indulge in music up a copy of the groovy performances beneath the stars. Prices rise quite steeply during these CD compilation Music For periods, when flocks of expat Lebanese descend on the country. An Arabian Night/Holiday Winter is best to visit if you’re intending on hitting the slopes, when In Beirut by Ron Goodwin trendy ski resorts like Faraya Mzaar ( p299 ) and the Cedars ( p342 ) gear & his Orchestra. up for business, the ski season usually stretching from early December to early April. The Christmas period is festive countrywide, with Lebanon’s Chris- tians putting up their fairy lights and celebrating in churches. You should ensure, though, that your hotel room has some sort of heating and reli- able hot water; otherwise, you could be in for some chilly mornings. 117-getting-started-lebanon-syr3.indd7-getting-started-lebanon-syr3.indd 224444 99/04/2008/04/2008 110:07:430:07:43 AAMM lonelyplanet.com GETTING STARTED IN LEBANON •• Costs & Money 245 COSTS & MONEY Lebanon’s restaurant and hotel prices are roughly equivalent to North America and large parts of Europe. Beirut is full of fine restaurants, where a meal for two will easily tally up to US$100, and top-end hotel rooms go for over US$250 per night. It is, however, perfectly possible to travel the country on a tight budget.
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