TOUGH ROAD FOR CAFTA/12 THEORY’S REALITY/20 Global Edition WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • July 12, 2005• $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Coming Up Rosettes PARIS — Flowers may not exactly be a fall tradition, but they’ve turned up around the calendar for the past few years, and this couture season was no exception. Giorgio Armani, for example, used roses to punctuate the terrific-looking peplumed jackets in his Armani Privé collection, as this shapely version shows. For more autumn blossoms, see pages 8 and 9.

Trade Battle: Industry Ups Pressure as U.S. and China Talk On By Evan Clark a comprehensive agreement on goods. Four safeguard petitions WASHINGTON — Textile trade tensions textile and apparel imports, were filed Monday and one was filed between the U.S. and China went domestic producers ratcheted up last month to restrict import growth. up another notch Monday. the pressure on the Bush The plea from the U.S. textile On the same day that Chinese and administration and called for new industry, claiming to be drowning in U.S. trade diplomats worked toward restrictions on $944 million worth of See Quotas, Page 18 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY

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Recently an animal rights group What would happen if mulesing was spending millions of dollars on research launched a no doubt well-meaning but, stopped immediately? Quite simply it in the endeavour to discover an effective in our opinion, misguided attack on the would have exactly the opposite effect to solution. Hardly a positive outcome. Australian Merino wool industry. what the animal rights group intend. What’s the answer? The answer They claimed that an Australian Without mulesing, it is estimated up to is for people to continue giving farming practice known as ‘mulesing’ three million Australian sheep annually Australian Merino wool products their (pronounced mule-zing) was cruel, that would die a slow and agonizing death, support, to enable the Australian wool it should be stopped immediately and depending on the weather conditions. industry to find and trial a suitable that Australian Merino wool should not The Australian Veterinary Association alternative to mulesing as soon as be bought in the meantime. accepts this practice as necessary for possible. In the meantime, you can buy The Australian wool industry the longer term health and well-being of and wear Australian wool fashions and believes that the particular animal rights the animal. other products safe in the knowledge group has got its claims wrong and that What if people stopped buying that no one cares more for their flocks their demands would lead to endless Australian Merino wool? Once again this than Australian Merino sheep farmers suffering for sheep. Here’s why. would be totally counterproductive for and that no other natural fiber is Mulesing is the removal of a strip of animal lovers. If a boycott was ever totally as fine or as fashionable as Australian skin from the breech area (rear end) of effective it could lead to grave problems Merino wool. lambs to prevent them suffering from for the Australian wool industry. It would Brought to you by The Australian flystrike, a prevalent, dangerous and fatal also make it quite impossible for the Wool Industry. For further details please condition caused by the sheep blowfly. Australian wool industry to continue go to www.woolisbest.com 4 WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2005 WWD.COM Lacroix to Name New Chief Executive PARIS — Christian Lacroix’s owners said Monday WWDTUESDAY they plan to name a new chief executive for the Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Paris-based fashion house. The Falic family, which also controls Florida- FASHION based travel retail firm Duty Free Americas, said There was a floral element in the fall couture collections, featuring roses current ceo Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye would 8 and other blooms from the likes of Valentino and John Galliano at Dior. remain at the helm through the end of October “to facilitate the transition.” However, a new management team has yet to be GENERAL appointed, a spokeswoman for the house added. As Chinese and U.S. diplomats worked toward an agreement on textile and In a statement, Falic Group chairman Simon 1 apparel imports, domestic producers field more safeguard petitions. Falic thanked de la Bourdonnaye for initiating a Theory, a contemporary brand that generates $300 million in wholesale turnaround effort at Lacroix since his arrival at 20 volume, is making key moves to establish itself as a global player. the end of 2003, when the house was a division of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. The Falics STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY An era ends Wednesday when May Co. stages its final annual meeting bought Lacroix from LVMH last January with a Christian Lacroix, flanked by Jerome and Simon Falic. 22 here, marking the demise of a giant retailer and familiar nameplates. vow to maintain its couture operations and revolving door of chief executives, nine over 18 quickly develop the business in the U.S. As re- years. De la Bourdonnaye, who came from the ported, there are plans for Lacroix boutiques in merchandise and retail division of Euro Disney, EYE Although the social scene in New York has slowed to a mere trickle, it was Las Vegas and New York as early as yearend. said he would return to LVMH in an undisclosed in full force in the Hamptons this past weekend. Under LVMH’s ownership, Lacroix endured a capacity. 6

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To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is [email protected], using the individual’s name. Gordon Brothers Buys The Ozer Group WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. when more and more clients are started talking about it a year VOLUME 190, NO. 7. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional By Vicki M. Young issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional issues in realizing that appraisals, disposi- ago, exploring the possibility [of February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West NEW YORK — Gordon Brothers tions and the management of op- an acquisition], and we finally 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice- has acquired one of its competi- erations are not commodity serv- pulled it off. We are bringing a President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice- tors, The Ozer Group. ices,” said Michael Frieze, chair- great team to complement our President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General The terms of the deal were not man of Gordon Brothers Group, own,” Schwartz said. Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. disclosed. Boston, Mass.-based in a statement. GB is active in the retail and Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: Gordon Brothers, doing business SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS for more than 100 years, is a glob- CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Ozer is a firm that we’ve known for Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. al advisory firm, which also helps Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four firms dispose of a range of assets “ weeks after receipt of order. 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WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED firm known in retail and whole- MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND ” TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART sale circles for its expertise in ap- — Mark Schwartz, Gordon Brothers WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED praisals and dispositions of assets. TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE As part of the acquisition, Ozer Mark Schwartz, GB’s chief ex- apparel sectors, particularly ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. will close its offices in Needham, ecutive officer, said the acquisi- through its investment arm, GB Mass., and its professionals will tion will give GB a broader plat- Palladin. In addition to the usual relocate to GB’s Boston head- form through additional re- asset dispositions on the retail quarters. Several senior Ozer ex- sources to expand its business, side, from inventory to real estate, ecutives have worked at GB be- both in scope and the industries the firm has made investments in In Brief fore, including Stephen G. Miller its clients are in. Restoration Hardware, Spencer and William S. Weinstein. Miller “Ozer is a firm that we’ve Gifts and Laura Secord, Canada’s ● JONES CLEANS UP: Jones Apparel Group Inc. will close the and Weinstein, who founded Ozer, known for quite some time. The premier chocolate brand and re- laundry, assembly and distribution operations in one of its denim will become principals of GB. founding principles are from GB, tailer. Last year, through GB manufacturing plants in San Luis, Mexico. All manufacturing will “We want to build on our al- and we’ve been competing with Palladin, it completed a recapital- be consolidated into existing operations in Durango and Torreon, ready strong position at a time them for the last nine years….We ization of Andrew Marc. Mexico. Peter Boneparth, chairman and chief executive officer of Jones Apparel Group, said in a statement, “We conducted a de- tailed evaluation for the need to broaden our global sourcing ca- pabilities, as the benefits of competitive pricing and fabrication options from Asia challenged the quicker turn and superior laun- Maidenform Plans Initial Public Offering dry capabilities from our Mexican manufacturing. We deter- mined that centralization of our facilities to fully utilize manu- NEW YORK — Innerwear manu- ing shareholders selling 6.6 mil- proceeds are not sufficient to facturing capacity, coupled with diversity in the sourcing model, facturer Maidenform Brands lion shares. Its underwriters — fund these uses in full, we intend was the best decision for our business and our shareholders.” Inc. is making good on its April UBS Investment Bank, Credit to draw upon our available cash promise: It plans to sell 10 mil- Suisse First Boston and Goldman or our revolving credit facility to ● PARLUX MULLS SALE: Shares of Parlux Fragrances Inc. lion shares of company stock in Sachs & Co. — have the option to fund these uses,” the company surged nearly 14 percent in trading Monday morning on news an initial public offering that buy another 1.5 million shares. said in its filing. that the company may be for sale. The Fort Lauderdale, Fla.- could raise up to $160 million. Based on the high end of the esti- In May 2004, the majority of based firm, which holds the licenses to several celebrity fra- According to a regulatory fil- mated pricing range, the IPO Maidenform’s common stock was grances, including Paris Hilton’s, Maria Sharapova’s and Andy ing with the Securities and Ex- could generate up to $160 million. purchased by Ares Corporate Roddick’s, hired Citigroup Global Markets Inc. and change Commission on Monday, The firm is expected to trade Opportunities Fund LP, a private Oppenheimer & Co. to evaluate strategic alternatives for the fu- the Bayonne, N.J.-based firm esti- under the ticker symbol MFB. equity fund sponsored by Ares ture of the business. Parlux shares closed Monday at $31.08, up mated the price per share will be The company, which emerged Management, a Los Angeles- 4.12 percent. Nearly 1.5 million shares changed hands, more between $14 and $16, with exist- from Chapter 11 bankruptcy based investment firm. than triple the company’s average trading volume. court protection in July 1999, told Maidenform said it is a differ- the SEC in April that it would file ent entity than it was prior to ● JOBS CUT AT SARA LEE APPAREL: Sara Lee Corp. has elimi- for an IPO, but at the time didn’t 2001. “We have repositioned our- nated 775 positions from its branded apparel division following disclose its terms. The bankrupt- selves as a marketer, rather than an organizational review, the company said Monday. The cuts at cy was necessitated from an over- a manufacturer, of intimate ap- Sara Lee Branded Apparel, which is expected to be spun off as leveraged balance sheet and parel by increasing the percent- an independent, publicly held company in 2006, will affect less poor operational performance. age of sourced goods from 40 per- than 2 percent of the division’s 45,000 employees. Sara Lee said According to Monday’s filing cent in fiscal 2001 to 84 percent in 285 employees in the division’s U.S. headquarters accepted a with the SEC, Maidenform said it fiscal 2004,” it said in the filing. voluntary transition program, some of whom will be replaced. intended to use the net proceeds Maidenform lists as its recent The company said that it would add positions in the next few it will receive from the IPO to re- successes the introduction of the months to cover new functions after the spin-off. “Implementing deem all outstanding shares of its Maidenform One Fabulous Fit the associated workforce reduction is a very difficult decision, preferred stock, outstanding op- bra in 2002 and the launch of a but we believe these changes are unavoidable if the company is tions to purchase its preferred modern interpretation of the “I to flourish in the future,” said Lee A. Chaden, chief executive of- stock, as well as pay fees and ex- Dreamed…” campaign in 2003. ficer of Sara Lee Branded Apparel, in the statement. penses. “If, as is likely, the net —V.M.Y. from july 18th at IT USA 712 Fifth Avenue, 27th floor, New York, NY 10019 ph. 212 265 4166 fax 212 265 4144 www.gianfrancoferre.com 6 WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2005 WWD.COM

Amanda Kim Heirston Brooks in striking a pose H&M and at the Parrish. Chloé at Aerin Lauder’s.

Elizabeth Lindemann in Prada.

Although the social scene in New York has slowed to a mere trickle, it was in full force in the Hamptons this past weekend. Delphine Krakoff in “Welcome to Hurricane Dennis,” said Liz Cohen as she greeted custom Liz Lange waterlogged guests arriving at Nathaniel and Alex Kramer’s house with husband Reed. in Bridgehampton Friday for a dinner to celebrate the jeweler H. Stern’s newfound presence in the Hamptons. Party planners eye® erected a tent in the front yard in the hopes of keeping the crowd, which included Elizabeth Lindemann, Shoshanna and Josh Gruss, Fabiola Beracasa, Rachel Peters and Charlotte Freund (and their lobster tails) out of the Kramer household, without much luck. There was plenty of spillover into the kitchen, while 13-year-old Max Kramer and, as the hour got later, his father, trailed everyone with a digital Leica camera. The following night, the Parrish Art Museum held its Midsummer Party in Southampton. The summering social set, featuring Nina Griscom, Debbie Bancroft, Julia Koch, Lulu de Kwiatkowski and Heather Mnuchin, turned up to see event chair Reed Krakoff’s intricately designed tents with ornate trellis siding, billowing muslin, festive paper lanterns and vivid green pelmets. But that’s not all: A Coach leather-trimmed canvas tote — designed expressly for the affair — was waiting for each guest at their assigned seats. “Everyone is going to be switching colors,” predicted Krakoff, as the bags arrived in hues of pink, blue, red Hampton Daze and green. Debbie Bancroft, in her signature uniform of Douglas Aerin Lauder Hannant, was more consumed with the decor, however. “I’ve at her already asked Reed what is going to happen to that trellising summer when the tents come down. I could sure use it at my home.” home in Fellow Southampton summer resident Griscom arrived Ralph decked out in a white satin pants suit from Calypso. “I just Lauren. Ulla Parker and bought it this weekend because I didn’t bring anything to wear Heather Mnuchin in out here,” she explained. “She has an entire closet full of BCBG Max Azria. nothing to wear,” quipped beau Leo Piraino. A mere 12 hours later, a bevy of yummy mummies and their tiny tots descended upon Aerin Lauder’s Wainscott manse for a charity barbeque and Ralph Lauren fashion show for the Food Allergy Initiative. “This used to be my grandmother Estée’s home,” explained Lauder of the beautifully appointed grounds. Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos, just back from a month-long jaunt to Europe, cohosted the noon-day affair along with Stephanie Winston Wolkoff and Whitney Fairchild. “We took the children for a tour of castles in France and they actually loved it,” said de Kanavos. “I couldn’t believe it.” As the tots were entertained, and even swam in a pool watched over by a Ralph Lauren-clad lifeguard, the moms watched models move through the lawn sporting Ralph Liz Cohen in Lauren’s new cruise collection. After many of the ladies placed Tracy Feith. clothing orders (a percentage of the proceeds go to the charity), Poolside at the Lauder home. they spirited their antsy offspring off to the beach. Claude Wasserstein hatched a plan to steal away to the new Tracy Feith store later in the afternoon. “I already bought a surfboard from Alex Kramer in him to decorate my house,” said Wasserstein. Renée Rockefeller Alex Kramer in Catherine agreed to the shopping expedition, laughing, “It’s nice to come Catherine Malandrino with out here and get our Hamptons fix.” Malandrino with daughter Olivia. Tor y and Louisa Burch at Aerin Lauder’s.

Debbie Lulu de Bancroft in Dayssi Olarte Kwiatkowski in Julia Koch Douglas de Kanavos in Carlos Miele. inin J.Mendel.J.Mendel. Hannant. Ralph Lauren. ARRISH AND H.STERN PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; RALPH LAUREN BY PATRICK MCMULLAN PATRICK BY LAUREN STEVE EICHNER; RALPH ARRISH AND H.STERN PHOTOS BY P Or, you can go with us.

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Valentino Dior

PARIS —There was a floral element in the fall couture collections, consisting of roses and other blooms. Manifestations of the motif ranged from Valentino’s shimmering number with rosettes at the shoulders to John Galliano’s daring tulle frock with stylized details for Dior. The Flower Factor WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2005 9 WWD.COM Jean Paul Gaultier Chanel

Christian Lacroix PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 10 WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2005 WWD.COM Ready-to-Wear Report

Outerwear makers are revved up for the crucial fall selling season. New labels, fur accessories RICHARDS, WINLIT SOLD and luxurious details are some of the ways they are trying to attract customers. NEW YORK — G-III Apparel Group, the $240 million diversi- fied apparel firm, has chiseled COAT FIRMS SET STRATEGY percent of the 110 stores that carry the label have picked off a larger piece of the outer- NEW YORK — Disloyal shoppers, celebri- A key fall up the separates for fall, according to a company spokes- wear industry by acquiring two ty overload and fur’s popularity are some look from woman. Wholesale prices range from $110 to $400. privately held coat manufactur- of the factors affecting the outerwear Nili Lotan. Fur accessories are another new initiative for fall. A ers, Marvin Richards and Winlit. business as executives gear up for the key mink stole, rabbit scarf and detachable fur collars are G-III, an outerwear and fall selling season. some of the offerings that enhance the versatility of sportswear manufacturer and Consumers’ nondiscriminatory app- Cinzia Rocca outerwear, the spokeswoman said. distributor here, has in recent roach to shopping is the biggest factor Brioni, a ready-to-wear label that is known for its years added labels and outer- affecting the outerwear business, accord- high-quality coats, has lined up Janet Brown, Stanley wear licenses such as Cole ing to Fredric Stollmack, president and Korshak and Tootsie’s as some of its new accounts for Haan and House of Deréon, chief executive officer of Weatherproof fall. In addition to Brioni’s immaculately tailored jack- the fashion house started by Garment Co. here. “On Monday, a woman ets and coats, dresses are becoming more popular, a Tina and Beyoncé Knowles. could be shopping at Bergdorf Goodman, Brioni spokeswoman said. The now 26-plus label jugger- and on Friday, she is shopping in Costco. “The luxury consumer tells us constantly at trunk shows naut’s latest acquisitions It’s all about how you position your how important the exclusivity of the Brioni brand is to should bolster annual volume goods. You need different labels, styles them,” a company spokesman said. “Our motto, ‘To be one by $125 million, according to and concepts to be successful in the of a kind,’ has really hit home with the designer customer.” Morris Goldfarb, chairman and appropriate markets.” Leather has become an important category for Brioni, chief executive officer of G-III. In regard to the ongoing retail consol- as well, especially fur-lined leather coats, a By buying J. Percy for idation, Weatherproof is “carefully fitted double-breasted leather peacoat Marvin Richards, Marvin watching the market to see how every- with topstitching and “double Richards’ parent company, G- thing falls out” to be certain its three coats,” a leather coat layered over III has picked up licenses for labels — Impermeable by Weatherproof, a double-faced cashmere coat. Calvin Klein women’s and Weatherproof and WP — are sold in the Retailers have told Brioni men’s coats as well as St. John right channels, Stollmack said. executives that unusual Knits outerwear. To spread the word about the company’s leather pieces are often the Through the Winlit acquisi- various offerings, it has more than doubled WWfirst items to be sold once a tion, G-III now holds the licens- its marketing budget for fall. “Marketing new collection arrives, and es for women’s and men’s Guess has become a bigger piece of every manu- 2 price is not an issue, the outerwear, Tommy Hilfiger facturer’s budget. In the long run, that’s What to Watch spokeswoman said. leather outerwear and Ellen what will pay off,” said Stollmack. At Nili Lotan, a TriBeCa- Tracy, London Fog, Pacific Trail Weatherproof is in talks with “Today” based outerwear and ready-to- and BCBG by Max Azria outer- show weatherman Al Roker about renew- wear label, the company’s name- wear. Like Marvin Richards, ing his contract to appear in the brand’s sake said practically every fall Winlit also has its share of pri- ads. But everything is “very much up in order includes coats, especially mil- vate label programs. the air” as to whether or not “Sex and the itary-inspired ones. European and G-III acquired J. Percy for City” star Kristin Davis will appear in the Japanese stores have shown more Marvin Richards Ltd. and affili- brand’s ads again. interest in outerwear. The company ated companies for $19.2 mil- “We’re getting a little tired of celebrities. is selling its outerwear to five times lion and 466,666 shares of G-III The celebrity push is so over the top, and the number of stores it sold outer- common stock. G-III may be re- it’s really starting to bother us,” Stollmack wear to last fall, Lotan said. quired to issue up to 150,000 ad- said. “It’s time to get another kick.” A double-breasted, knee-length ditional shares of common An Icelandic label, 66°North, is tripling peacoat with epaulets in Italian stock, based on the future mar- its presence in the U.S. market this fall. wool or a cashmere blend is a best- ket price of its shares. J. Percy The performance-oriented brand’s seller. Available in navy, black or for Marvin Richards will be en- women’s offerings will be sold in 75 green, the coat has red velvet trim. titled to receive additional com- stores, compared with 25 last fall. This Wholesale prices range from $230 pensation based on the per- year, U.S. sales are expected to climb to $1 million, said Sharon to $295, depending on the length. formance of G-III’s new Marvin Prince, president of the North American division of 66°North. To help shoppers find her col- Richards division through the Named after the latitudinal line of the Arctic Circle, 66°North was lection, Lotan will launch a Web fiscal year ending Jan. 31, 2009. started in 1926 as an outerwear company geared for commercial fish- site, nililotan.com, with links to G-III has acquired the oper- ermen. Hollywood filmmaker and Iceland native Joni Sighvatsson stores that sell her clothes online. ating assets of the Winlit Group now owns the brand. To clue in Americans, a fall advertising cam- For the first time, Ugg Australia Ltd. for about $7.3 million. paign will break in the September issue of GQ and other magazines. Detail is outerwear will be featured in Ugg Winlit will be entitled to receive The Icelandic label’s fleece jackets are much more fitted than a focus Australia’s corporate fall cam- additional money based on the traditional ones. The 25-piece collection wholesales from $50 to for Cinzia paign, which will break with a four- performance of the new Winlit $200, with fleece jackets, performance shell jackets and Icelandic Rocca. page spread in Vogue in September division at G-III through the fis- sweaters expected to be fall bestsellers, Prince said. and will follow up with others cal year ending Jan. 31, 2009. For fall, Cinzia Rocca, a high-end Italian coat label, continues to including Teen Vogue in December. For its second fall season in out- Sammy Aaron, president of build its U.S. presence by opening new accounts such as Bergdorf ’s. erwear, Ugg Australia will feature shearling vests in its ads. Marvin Richards, will be vice To step up its fashion quota, the company is offering more outerwear Ugg Australia Outerwear, which is licensed to David Peyser chairman of G-III and president in rich jewel tones and specialty fabrics with intricate detailing. Sportswear, plans to introduce its first spring collection in 2006. The of G-III’s new Marvin Richards The brand also is trying to bolster sales by selling a 10-piece jersey outerwear company relocated to a showroom at 530 Seventh Avenue division. Aaron also will become sportswear collection including halter tops, turtlenecks and blouses. earlier this year. a director of G-III. David Winn, Blazers are another important component of its business. About 25 — Rosemary Feitelberg president of Winlit Group Ltd., will join G-III as president of the company’s new Winlit division. Prince Jefri of Brunei sold Asprey to Lawrence Stroll Both men report to Goldfarb. and Silas Chou, and the luxury firm dissolved To finance the acquisitions Starzewski’s division. To top that, Starzewski had a car and handle its increased need Tomasz’s Return crash in Mustique, and underwent the reconstruction for working capital, G-III has set of half his face, his legs and collar bone. “It’s changed up $195 million in financing NEW YORK — For the past five years, London me completely professionally,” he said. “I now enjoy through CIT Group/Commercial ready-to-wear designer Tomasz Starzewski has life so much more. I work in the way I wish to work.” services Inc. The arrangement been quietly rebuilding his business, and he is Neiman Marcus approached him for his rtw last includes a three-year revolving now ready to take a major leap: reentering the year and he started distributing pieces to select credit line with a maximum ca- U.S. market. stores this spring. Bergdorf Goodman is expected to pacity of $165 million and a Starzewski, who started in business 18 years begin carrying pieces in August on the fourth floor three-year term loan with a ago, is known in his hometown for dressing the alongside designers such as Isaac Mizrahi, Maggie principal amount of $30 million. Ladies-Who-Lunch set, and his gowns and suits Norris and John Anthony. The bank is “very comfort- have adorned the likes of the late Diana, Princess Wholesale prices range from about $572 to $823 able” with funding further ex- of Wales and Sarah Ferguson, and Stateside the for tailored evening jackets and $259 to $928 for pansion, said Goldfarb. “We’re late Nan Kempner and Audrey Gruss. dresses and bottoms. Prices have been converted going to try to sit back, inte- At the beginning of his career, he sold his from the euro at the current exchange rate and ex- grate the three companies, try eveningwear to stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue, clude shipping and duty. Starzewski’s wholesale to maximize our opportunities A dress by Bergdorf Goodman and Bloomingdale’s and even sales projections are approximately $2 million for and review opportunities in the Tomasz had a shop on London’s tony Sloane Street. But his the fiscal year. He expects the U.S. business to ac- market, but not necessarily the Starzewski. business, at the time owned by the then Asprey count for one-third of sales. coat market,” Goldfarb said. Group, started struggling in the late Nineties when — Marc Karimzadeh — R.F.

12 WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2005 WWD.COM Te xtile & Trade Report Counting CAFTA Votes The Textile States WASHINGTON — Congress could take up the controversial Central American Free By Kristi Ellis licly they will vote for CAFTA. “I know the trade rep is working on side Trade Agreement possibly as early as next The linchpin in the administration’s issues of pocketing and [foreign fabric al- week and Southern textile-state lawmakers WASHINGTON — The Bush administra- fluid Southern strategy appears to be get- lowances given to Nicaragua] and if some will figure prominently in the outcome of tion appears to be coming up short on ting firm commitments from the six CAFTA of that comes to be I think [the administra- the vote in the House. WWD polled all 39 votes for the Central American Free countries to support a proposed amend- tion] will pick up several votes,” she said. members from the largest textile states, Trade Agreement, as the final showdown ment by U.S. Trade Representative Rob Myrick said the majority of textile including North and South Carolina, in the House looms. Portman to change a provision in the treaty companies in her district, including Georgia and Alabama. The poll results With Republicans from states hit hard for pocketing fabric to require it be made Parkdale Mills, American & Efird and appear to indicate the administration still by international trade joining large blocs by one of the signatory countries — as op- Stowe Mills, support CAFTA and want to does not have the votes it needs to push of Democrats who oppose the accord’s posed to any country in the world, which is build on export opportunities. CAFTA over the final hurdle. labor provisions, the White House is still the way it stands now in the accord. It appears the administration has looking to swing more votes and the po- That change alone, which requires ap- inched a step closer to getting some sup- SOUTH CAROLINA: litical maneuvering should be intense in proval from all six CAFTA countries, port from the CAFTA countries, according J. Gresham Barrett (R): Undecided the run-up to the House vote this month, could help protect the $100 million in ex- to a letter obtained by WWD. Six ambassa- Henry E. Brown, Jr. (R): Undecided possibly as early as next week. isting U.S. pocketing exports to the re- dors from the countries sent a draft letter Joe Wilson (R): No How the textile states vote will be key gion and could give assurances to wary to Portman on June 30, claiming their gov- Bob Inglis (R): Undecided to the CAFTA battle and members of the textile-state lawmakers. ernments are prepared to engage in con- John Spratt Jr. (D): No House Textile Caucus, comprising some House members are continuing to meet sultations after CAFTA “enters into force.” James Clyburn (D): Leaning no 80 lawmakers, represent a significant with U.S. trade officials and GOP leader- “Moreover, our governments will ac- voting bloc. cept your proposed modification in those NORTH CAROLINA: Rep. Sue Myrick In a survey conducted by WWD, 14 consultations,” the six ambassadors wrote. G.K. Butterfield (D): No (R., N.C.) is voting House members from the four largest tex- Becky Ruby, communications director Bob Etheridge (D): Did not respond yes on CAFTA. tile delegations — North Carolina, South for Rep. Phil Gingrey (R., Ga.), said the Walter Jones, Jr. (R): No Carolina, Georgia and Alabama — said congressman is undecided, but would David E. Price (D): Leaning no they plan to vote “no” for CAFTA, while vote for CAFTA if “the issues get re- Virginia Foxx: (R): No eight said they were “leaning no,” anoth- solved to his satisfaction,” adding a Howard Coble (R.): Leaning no er seven said they were undecided, two signed letter from six trade ministers be- Mike McIntyre (D): No said they plan to vote “yes” and one was fore the vote would be favorable. Robin Hayes (R): Leaning no leaning “yes.” (See voting list, this page.) “Along with these letters, [Rep.] Sue Myrick (R): Yes As Congress returns this week from a Gingrey is working to get assurances from Patrick McHenry (R): No weeklong July 4 recess, one of the fiercest House and Senate leadership that they Charles H. Taylor (R): No trade battles in a decade looms in the House SCHNEIDER AP PHOTO/PATRICK will bring up [the pocketing amendment in Melvin Watt (D): Undecided over CAFTA, which proposes to lower and Rep. Charles Congress] in a timely matter to make sure Brad Miller (D): Leaning no eliminate tariffs on goods and services flow- Norwood it doesn’t get lost in the fray,” Ruby said. ing between the U.S. and Guatemala, El (R., Ga.) is As textile-state lawmakers watch the GEORGIA: Salvador, Honduras, Costa Rica, Nicaragua voting no. pocketing issue unfold in the run-up to the Jack Kingston (R): Did not respond and the Dominican Republic. vote, they are also weighing several other Sanford Bishop Jr. (D): Undecided Opposition in the House is deep and factors in the days before the showdown. Jim Marshall (D): No wide and it has created a major political Republican members are under intense Cynthia McKinney (D): No headache for the Bush administration, pressure from the administration to vote John Lewis (D): No which is trying to find enough votes for with the President on this key trade accord, Tom Price (R): Did not respond the embattled trade accord. Republicans but some GOP loyalists from the South are John Linder (R): Yes control the House with 231 votes, while in a bind because of pledges they made to Lynn Westmoreland (R): Leaning yes Democrats represent 202 votes. There is the American Manufacturing Trade Action Charles Norwood (R): No also one independent and one vacancy. Coalition, National Textile Association and Nathan Deal (R): Did not respond

The Bush administration would need a JACKSON AP PHOTO/LAWRENCE American Textile Manufacturers Institute Phil Gingrey (R): Undecided simple majority of lawmakers who are vot- during the midterm elections in 2004, say- John Barrow (D): No Sen. ing on the floor for passage in the House, ing they would vote against CAFTA. David Scott (D): No Elizabeth but a large contingent of GOP members A total of 14 lawmakers from North Dole (R., from textile- and sugar-producing states is and South Carolina and Georgia who ALABAMA: N.C.), whose opposed to the pact, which has made it dif- were reelected pledged they would vote Jo Bonner (R): Leaning no yes vote ficult for the White House to secure the against CAFTA. The associations did not Terry Everett (R): Did not respond could sway 218 votes it needs for approval. The ad- poll members from Alabama. Michael Rogers (R): Leaning no some of her ministration is hopeful that a compromise It is unclear whether members will Robert Aderholt (D): Leaning no state’s House from the CAFTA countries on a key pock- stand behind their campaign pledges. Robert E. “Bud” Cramer Jr. (D): Undecided members. eting provision could sway some votes. Sen. Richard Burr (R., N.C.) pledged to Spencer Bachus: (R): Did not respond The President was handed a victory in vote against CAFTA, but ended up voting Artur Davis (D): Did not respond the Senate, which voted 54-45 to approve for it on the floor of the Senate and the treaty on June 30. Myrick has also backed out of the pledge.

Rep. Bill Thomas (R., Calif.), chairman UPI/ROGER L. WOLLENBERG /LANDOV Amy Auth, communications director to vote against CAFTA, said past admin- of the House Ways & Means Committee, ship to get firm commitments from the for Rep. Virginia Foxx, (R., N.C.), who has istrations have broken several promises recently said Congress might need to play CAFTA leaders showing they support the Sara Lee plants, Unifi and Parkdale Mills to the textile industry, although he the China card to get enough votes to pass change. Opponents claim the U.S. will have in her district, said the congresswoman is stressed he trusts Portman’s intentions. CAFTA in the House. Thomas said he is no leverage after the House votes on planning to vote against CAFTA, even “If they can do all of these great things preparing legislation to address trade is- CAFTA. In addition, Congress would have though some of the largest textile and ap- then they need to put them in the agree- sues associated with China and would to approve any changes to the textile rule of parel players in her district support ment now and fix it now,” said Norwood. like the House to act on the measure be- origin, which further complicates matters. CAFTA, and in part because she signed “Don’t promise to fix them after the vote. fore it considers CAFTA. The other two administration pledges the associations’ pledge and is “con- Most times, promises for one reason or House members will be watching for are a commitment from Nicaragua, which cerned about any unfettered free trade another can’t seem to be fulfilled.” China legislation this week and evaluat- received 100 million square meters equiv- agreements that send jobs overseas.” Norwood, who has Avondale Mills in ing whether it has enough teeth in it. alent in allowances to use foreign fabrics Battle scars from past trade fights also his district, said the trade accord would The Bush administration has already and yarn outside of the U.S. and the re- weigh heavily on a lawmaker’s mind, and hurt the firm’s business and “that’s tried to placate textile-state Republicans gion, to preserve the $100 million in exist- the polarization in the textile industry, enough right there.” with promises to tweak the CAFTA ac- ing U.S. business, and outlining a process which has suffered massive job losses Brian Robinson, deputy chief of staff cord, which won the support of Sen. for the implementation of “cumulation” over the past decade, makes the vote that for Rep. Lynn Westmoreland (R., Ga.), Elizabeth Dole (R., N.C.) and the National for Mexico and Canada to take part in the much more difficult for some. who is leaning toward supporting Council of Textile Organizations, and agreement. Under CAFTA’s cumulation In the past 10 years, since the North CAFTA, said: “We still have some textile splintered the textile industry. Many provision, a limited amount of woven ap- American Free Trade Agreement took ef- industry in our district and there has House members are reluctant to show parel, denim apparel and wool apparel fect, the textile and apparel industry has been some loud concern from those sec- their hands on a controversial trade vote made in the CAFTA countries from lost 889,100 jobs, or 57.8 percent of its tors about the agreement.” until the final floor debate, which ex- Mexican and Canadian fabric could quali- total workforce, since the end of 1994. However, Westmoreland has close ties plains why many are still undecided or fy for duty-free treatment in the U.S. There is no question imports have to Sen. Saxby Chambliss (R., Ga.), who “leaning” one way or the other. Rep. Sue Myrick (R., N.C.) — one of the played a major role in the displacement was initially opposed to CAFTA because The administration is still pinning its two textile-state lawmakers publicly sup- of U.S. textile workers, and lawmakers of concerns about sugar imports, but hopes on three promises it made to the porting CAFTA — said the administration who voted for NAFTA and subsequent later voted to support the agreement. textile industry to ultimately swing can find more votes in the coming days if trade-related legislation are leery of “At the end of the day, the senator was enough votes, but to date only two House it is able to demonstrate it has firm com- promises for votes. on board with it and that is something we textile-state members have stated pub- mitments from the CAFTA governments. Charles Norwood (R., Ga.), who plans have to consider,” Robinson said.

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Swimming pool chemicals rapidly deteriorate fibers and fabrics, Most executives agreed they had overcome affecting the longevity of the garment. LYCRA® proprietary technology the worst of the export crisis that resulted from provides the highest level of durable protection available. Now, with the the strength of the euro against the dollar in the innovation of Xtra Life LYCRA®, the consumer can enjoy a longer life last six months, even though sales will take a to the beautiful fit she loves in her new swimwear. while to recover. The survey disclosed shop- “The crisis is finished and the market is finding pers would have tremendous its new ground, though it’s clear we won’t see years interest in Xtra Life LYCRA® like 2001 again soon,” said Massimiliano Zegna based on hangtags and labels, Baruffa, chief executive officer of Zegna Baruffa. with 77% noting they’d be The company managed to achieve stable re- likely to buy after seeing the sults for the first half of 2005, Baruffa said. information. Additionally, 81% Grignasco Group, which also managed to stay said they prefer Xtra Life on plan with sales in the first half, is slowly find- ing its way out of the latest crisis. LYCRA® over generic spandex. “Things are getting a bit easier with the euro “Xtra Life LYCRA® is a dropping, but it’s still a very complicated market,” great enabler to help the value said Paolo Corrias, marketing direc- chain make money,” stressed tor of Grignasco Group. Ninabeth Sowell, North America On Monday, one euro was swimwear business manager, worth $1.21. In January, one euro LYCRA®. “Giving consumers was worth $1.35. Loro Piana’s foil- something they truly value Luigi Botto returned to the laminated cashmere. increases the likelihood that fair this season after a hiatus they’ll pay full price. This spent dealing with its own finan- benefits everyone in the chain, cial restructuring. the only solution to rise above including the consumer.” “Business is better. We are out the current situation,” said of the financial crisis and focus- Salvaneschi. LYCRA® is the best-known Suddenly Slim by Anne Cole will be using Xtra Life LYCRA® ing on new collections, which While most Italian yarn man- brand in swimwear, Sowell have been repositioned at a high- ufacturers struggle to maintain asserted, noting Xtra Life hangtags, labeling, retail promotions and er level,” said Arianna Leone, their sales at current levels, PR programs will communicate the new LYCRA® advantage. “The ceo of Luigi Botto. “Fortunately, cashmere yarn producers are established trust factor in the LYCRA® brand is what makes this at the same time, the dollar is riding the crest of a record year. enhancement so credible.” repositioning itself higher, too.” Cariaggi, a specialist in the Sherri Akers, vice president of merchandising for Anne Cole Leone said the company’s Merino wool and wool- yarn, is expecting sales to rise this swimwear, noted Xtra Life LYCRA® was added to its signature fabric, basic yarn product was either blend fabrics from year by 11 percent to 42 million eliminated or an upgraded; euros, or $50.1 million at current Anne Cole Solid Power. “We’re very excited about this fabric,” Akers Grignasco. MAESTRI DAVIDE PHOTOS BY stressed. “It is incredibly soft and comfortable, but unbelievably medium-high-quality yarn was exchange rates. The company pre- supportive. You get a very flattering look, but haven’t sacrificed used, so as not to compete with sented metal/cashmere mixes, ultra anything in comfort.” Chinese mills. luxurious cashmere piles and Anne Cole, founder and designer of Anne Cole swimwear, noted that “If you can find it in China, it smoked cashmere mélanges doesn’t make sense that we pro- achieved by dyeing the fiber before she was very involved in the decision to add Xtra Life LYCRA®. duce it,” said Leone. the spinning process in tones of “Technologically, the addition of Xtra Life LYCRA® is going to enhance Instead, Luigi Botto devel- gray, oatmeal and sky blue. our product in every way possible. oped its patented XT-Four yarn, “We are having a good mo- “The new durability and life will fall right in line with the quality this time with cashmere and ment, but to get here, we invested and fit Anne Cole has always been famous for.” Xtra Life LYCRA® is wool combined with a new, high- in the product and believed in it. available in several Anne Cole swimwear lines, like Anne Cole er performance elastic called We wanted to distinguish our- Collection, Anne Cole Locker and Anne Cole Studio. XLA. Leone said luxury fibers selves on the market and we can Susan Crank, president and CEO of Lunada Bay, said its Becca brand spun in the XT-Four way re- with products like these,” said adopted Xtra Life LYCRA® for the coming season. “Anytime there tained their quality, with less Cristiana Cariaggi, ceo of the are any innovations in fabrics or fibers that are going to make a pilling, because the process company. difference in the quality of our product, we’re ecstatic to incorporate places less stress on the fiber. Loro Piana is also enjoying them into our collection. It’s always difficult to find the perfect suit, The company also showed a double-digit growth. The compa- tonal mélange color card of XT ny expects a 30 percent rise in and Xtra Life LYCRA® lets customers keep that suit looking great Cashmere and yarn achieved by overdyeing. yarn sales by the end of year. for even longer.” cashmere-blend The procedure produces thou- fabrics from Ya rn division manager Luciano Xtra Life LYCRA® will launch at an invitation-only swimwear show, sands of color gradients and can Cariaggi. Bandi said, “The American mar- featuring brands like Becca, Anne Cole, Michael Kors, Juicy Couture, be done in quantities as low as 10 ket for us is stronger than ever. Prada, Gottex Blue and others, to be held at The Raleigh Hotel, July 18, kilos, added Leone. They are buying a lot of yarn.” 2005, at the Sunglass Hut Swim Shows Miami presented by LYCRA® “American clients love this because they can Suzanne Pond, director of design for in Miami Beach, Fla. practically have their own exclusive color and can Massachusetts-based Dawson-Forté Cashmere, said, buy the quantity they want,” said Leone. “Cashmere is a hot commodity right now in the U.S.” Another yarn manufacturer gearing its dyeing Loro Piana uncharacteristically presented a For further information, contact Ninabeth Sowell at service to customers is Iafil. The 100-year-old com- number of fancy cashmere yarns, including foil- (704)362-7590 or [email protected]. pany opened a dyeing plant last September in Hong laminated jersey cashmere in bronze, red and sil- Kong to enable faster delivery to its Far East market. ver black. Zegna Baruffa followed the new trend Stefano Salvaneschi, president of Iafil, said the to puffy, clean, featherweight yarn in Saxmere — company could deliver dyed cotton yarn from its a blend of Saxon wool and cashmere in shades of Hong Kong plant within a week. Iafil & Co. Hong petrol, violet and gray. Iafil also applied foil to Kong has the capacity to dye 300,000 kilos of cot- mixes of merino wool and alpaca in tones of black, ton yarn and Salvaneschi said he hoped the plant and printed mélange color onto pure alpaca yarns would soon account for more than a quarter of in gray, beige and cream. yarn sales, which hit 20 million euros, or $24.9 “I like the moody black story some companies million, in 2004. have shown, but overall, I like the cashmere and “It’s not just about the product; we had to learn luxury blends,” said Richard Metzger, design di- how to manage it better and follow the client. It’s rector of GM Design Group in New York. WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2005 15 WWD.COM Lineapiù Celebrates 30 Years of Fashion Fabric

FLORENCE — Lineapiù celebrated its 30th Lola future,” Cattaneo said. “Before, there were so anniversary at Pitti Filati last week with an exhibition Coppini many red-tape problems selling our product locally of designer garments woven with its yarns. because you had to be a joint venture or be based The company presented 70 outfits, all created in an ultraexpensive free-trade zone, but this from Lineapiù yarn, taken from the archives of license changes all of that. It gives us access to designers including Chanel, Missoni, Valentino more companies and allows us to sell much faster and Giorgio Armani. The exhibition, “Yarn Makes and deliver within three days.” History,” is running at the Galleria del Costume at The results, added Cattaneo, will spike the Palazzo Pitti in Florence. Italian yarn company’s annual sales twofold in The presentation recalled Lineapiù’s “hopefully five years time.” beginning. Based in the Capelle area of Florence, Cattaneo said she already has welcomed new The exhibit included dresses the fancy yarn company was founded by president business on account of the license, including local, by Chanel, Missoni, Valentino Giuliano Coppini in 1975. At the time, other yarn Japanese and European knitters based in the area. and Giorgio Armani. and textile mills in the Prato area manufactured a —S.E. MAESTRI DAVIDE PHOTOS BY basic product with low prices. But Coppini saw a gap in the market and started creating luxury yarns based on fibers such as alpaca and mohair, catering exclusively to the high-end designer market. “People thought my father was mad,” said Lola Coppini, vice president of Lineapiù at the company’s Pitti Filati stand. “But he was courageous. He persevered ©Daniele Buetti and in three years, Lineapiù was a success. It was right for the time, as Italian labels like Giorgio Armani and Versace were just beginning.” Coppini said her father laid the roots for the success the company has achieved today. Lineapiù finished 2004 with sales of 115 million euros, or $143 million at average exchange rates, and produced more than 6 million kilos of yarn. The company’s four yarn collections include Lineapiù, fantasy and classic yarn; Filclass, yarn for contemporary knitwear; Lineapiù Fili e Forme, luxury trimming yarns, and Cotonficio Ferrari, yarns for textiles and jersey knitwear. While Lineapiù had its success in Italy, the company is eyeing China as its sales-driver of the future. In a dual-pronged plan, the company has opened a separate mill in East China to produce basic yarns for the local market, in addition to establishing an affiliate in Shanghai to sell Italian-made Lineapiù yarns locally. Top Line Ltd., a joint company between Lineapiù and Chinese companies Fenix and Consinee, was formed in April. Based in Ningbo, East China, Top Line will present its basic fantasy collection of 15 yarns in September at Shanghai’s Spin Expo yarn fair. Lineapiù is hoping the initial Top Line yarn collection, a combination of Italian imagination with low prices, will captivate local knitwear producers. “Our intent is to combine Italian know-how with Chinese prices,” Coppini said. “We will see how this collection turns out and personalize the product to how the market wants.” Meanwhile, in Shanghai, Lineapiù is embracing local demand for its Italian-made product, thanks to the acquisition of a new license that was given to the company in April. The Foreign Invested Commercial Enterprise License enables wholly foreign-owned The World’s Premier Fabric Show™ / Parc d’Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte - France / Tuesday 20 September 2005: exclusively reserved companies to trade freely on the 06.07 for pre-registered buyers / from Wednesday 21 to Friday 23 September 2005: open to buyers and visitors / PREMIÈRE VISION local Chinese market. Lineapiù was AUTUMN WINTER C/O FRANCE LIGNE Inc. - 132 East Putnam Avenue-Greenwich / Cos Cob CT - 06807 USA / Tel.: (1) 203.861.2082 / Fax: (1) 203.629.9157 one of the first Italian companies to E-mail: [email protected] / www.premierevision.fr receive the license, said Emanuela Cattaneo, general manager of Lineapiù Yarns Shanghai Co. “This license is the key to our 16 WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2005 WWD.COM Te x t i l e s & Trade Delta Galil’s ‘High-Tex’ Cotton By Jessica Steinberg rics. RealCool Cotton has been approved by U.K. laboratories after retaining its spe- cial properties following 30 washes, the industry standard. TEL AVIV — Imagine a 100 percent cotton T-shirt that never gets sweaty — no matter “It’s the kind of thing that stays fresh all day,” said Ghindes, who spent many hours how many times someone perspires during the day, the shirt stays as cool, dry and as at Delta’s design studios working on the concept. “A guy who usually puts on an un- comfortable as when it was put on in the morning. dershirt beneath his button-down shirt will find that his shirt will stay fresh the en- That is the claim of RealCool Cotton, whose creator, Israeli textile manufacturer tire day. It all wicks out.” Delta Galil, calls it the ultimate cotton fabric, material that breathes but stays cool The fabric has the feel of mercerized cotton, a thin, soft fabric that drapes easily and fresh, without absorbing the body’s moisture. The company created RealCool by on the body, but without the weight of the average cotton material. Plans are to use using nanotechnology applications, the science of making almost anything smaller, the high-end cotton in all kinds of soft goods, including underwear, bras, socks and sturdier and more effective. bed sheets. For now, several U.S. and “We were thinking about what would European manufacturers have bought be the ultimate fabric that we would want Some of Delta Galil’s the fabric, including mass market and to make,” said Esti Maoz, Delta’s corpo- RealCool Cotton products. private label retailers, although Delta de- rate senior vice president for global de- clined to name the companies. velopment and marketing, “and we knew According to Maoz, products made out it had to be cotton because that’s the fab- of the concentrated cotton will cost about ric that everyone loves best.” 10 percent more, but Delta expects its Nasdaq-traded Delta is well-known for customers to be willing to pay extra for its intimate apparel. It produces and out- the concept, and Delta will profit from its sources underwear, bras and socks in 20 investment within two years. countries for private label customers That will be important for Delta, Donna Karan and Calvin Klein; chains which reported a loss of $3 million for Victoria’s Secret, the Gap, Banana the first quarter of 2005. Republic, Express and J. Crew, as well as In reporting the first-quarter losses for mass market retailers Target, Wal- in May, chief executive officer Arnon Mart and British store Marks & Spencer. Tiberg said, “The main causes of the One of the world’s largest private label loss were a decrease in sales and the intimate apparel manufacturers, with erosion of selling prices to some of our $654 million in sales in 2004, the company customers, particularly in the European credits vertical integration — a manage- and the U.S. upper-market divisions. We rial package of design, textile technology, are in a period of major changes in the outsourcing, manufacturing and market- global business environment. Following ing — as its secret to achieving growth. the elimination of quotas…the market But “high-tex,” the local nickname has been characterized by strong pres- for Israeli technology applied to tex- sure to lower prices, beyond our expec- tiles, is a specialty of the industry. tations, from most of our customers. Delta invests millions in research and Delta continues to evaluate how to cope development annually, creating a range with these changes by adjusting its pro- of high-quality, creatively woven knits We were thinking about what would be the duction facilities, reducing cost of pro- for its customers. “ curement and overhead.” Last March, after several quarters of ultimate fabric that we would want to make. Edna Brenner, an analyst covering declining profits, Delta made a wish list of — Esti Maoz,” Delta Galil Delta at Psagot Ofek, a Tel Aviv broker- technological innovations, with a next- age, said the surge of cheap Chinese generation cotton at the top of the pile. It goods into Europe and the U.S. created a took eight months and $1.5 million in research and development to create the fabric, wave of textile industry losses, and a ripple effect at Delta Galil. which is patent-pending in the U.K. Delta’s customers have stuck with the Israeli manufacturer, but they’re looking for According to Riki Ghindes, Delta’s design and global development director, the price reductions. Now Delta has to work on its expenses, as well as product innova- nanotechnology applications used in the company’s laboratories created a special tion, said Brenner. treatment that softens the cotton, increasing the absorption capacity of the fabric. “This fabric won’t solve their problems, but a huge contract from someone like The application allows moisture to be wicked to the surface of the fabric where it can Reebok could definitely help, especially before it gets copied in some corner in easily evaporate, creating a similar but more comfortable material than synthetic fab- China,” she added. CITA Approves Trio for CBTPA WASHINGTON — The Committee for the Implementation of Textile Agreements has approved three categories of goods for duty-free treatment under the Caribbean Basin Trade Partnership Act. The goods include certain kinds of woven cotton shirts and blouses, and two types of men’s and boys’ woven cotton shirts. CITA, an interagency panel chaired by the Commerce Department, determined the materials used in the goods could not be supplied domestically in large enough quantities and in a let inspiration flow timely enough manner to be commercially viable. Petitions requesting the actions were filed in March by Sandler, timeless innovation. Travis and Rosenberg on behalf of a company called BWA. CBTPA allows goods assembled in 24 Caribbean countries to timely service. be shipped to the U.S. duty free, but usually stipulates that the goods be made of U.S. yarn and fabric. the world over. — Evan Clark

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Symphony West THE TIGER COMPANIES 860 South Los Angeles Street Tiger Button Co Inc - New York Suite 702 Tiger Button (hk) Ltd - Hong Kong Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tiger Button (India) Pvt Ltd. p 213.627.7381 | f 213.228.1943 Tiger Button BV - Amsterdam,The Netherlands Tiger Trimming Inc - New York Tel: (212) 594-0570 Fax: (212) 695-0265 Email:[email protected] WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2005 17 WWD.COM DuWop Unveils First Eye Color Collection

NEW YORK — In a step to becoming a more well-round- “Over the last year or so, they’ve done ed color cosmetics brand, DuWop has launched its first extraordinary things with the brand,” Kao Corp. Working on Deal eye color collection, DuWop Eyes. he said. “Their view is to create inno- The new cream-to-powder eye shadows, part of vative product that does multiple To Acquire Molton Brown the company’s plans to expand its color business, things equally well.” TOKYO — Japan’s Kao Corp. has confirmed it is negoti- are available in six palettes. Because DuWop relies on ating to buy London-based beauty brand and retailer The eye color collection was developed to word-of-mouth buzz in lieu of Molton Brown. provide day-to- advertising, the new eye col- “Kao Corp. plans to release further information in night, single- lection, which is scheduled to due course,” Kao said in a statement. color looks with- BEAUTY BEAT launch next month through- Kao’s current beauty brand holdings include Biore, in one sleek, out the brand’s 16-country Jergens, Curel, Ban and John Frieda, among others. credit card-size compact. “DuWop Eyes gives distribution network, will There is speculation in some industry circles that women the tools to create sophisticated looks, but DuWop not be supported by an Kao’s bid for Molton Brown may well be in excess of 50 takes the guesswork out of it,” said DuWop presi- Eyes, the ad campaign. DuWop billion yen, or $455 million at current exchange. Kao is dent Cristina Bartolucci. “We contribute a twist — brand’s plans to complete its also considering making a bid to purchase Kanebo and it’s almost a little game we play,” Bartolucci said, first eye color business with mas- Kanebo Cosmetics from the state-run Industrial discussing the DuWop philosophy of creating indi- colors. cara, foundation and face Revitalization Organization. Two years ago, Kao unsuc- vidual products that offer quirky benefits. powder launches by mid-2006. cessfully tried to acquire Kanebo Cosmetics from then Each $29 eye palette was named after a single — Karen James financially ailing Kanebo Ltd. color — Blue Eyes, Green Eyes, Violet Eyes, Gray Eyes, Brown Eyes and Amber Eyes — and is packaged in a matching com- pact. Inside are light, medium and dark hues of each shade, a silver or gold shimmer shadow, a cream eyeliner and a double- tipped, mini shadow/liner brush. Retail sales of DuWop Eyes are expected to reach about $2 million by yearend, according to INTRODUCING Bartolucci. But the eyes don’t have it all. DuWop also recently launched a six-shade range called Toe Pol- ish. The product’s “twist” is the addition of tea-tree oil, a natural Material World anti-fungal. The formulations Material World are designed to be high-shine, nonyellowing and fast-drying, the company said. Annual retail sales of Toe Polish are expected to be about $1.5 million. New York The $16 million indie brand began as a color line six years ago, but given DuWop’s eclectic assort- ment — including Lip Venom SEPTEMBER 28-30, 2005 plumping lip gloss and I Gels eye discs — retailers that carry the JACOB K. JAVITS CONVENTION CENTER brand are debating whether to merchandise DuWop in their NEW YORK CITY color or treatment sections. Some retailers have respond- www.material-world.com ed to DuWop’s renewed color focus by relocating the brand to more prominent locations. FABRIC :: TRIM :: SOURCING Sephora is moving the brand into its color department. The retailer had originally launched DuWop’s lip-plumping products FROM DESIGN TO DELIVERY, in its skin care area. NEW YORK’S PREMIER GLOBAL According to Courtney Baber, FABRIC AND SOURCING EVENT Sephora’s vice president of mer- chandising and divisional mer- chandise manager for color, the UNRIVALED GLOBAL EXPOSITION full line will occupy endcaps in OF FABRICS AND SERVICES 25 locations by yearend. Baber noted the retailer’s endcaps are BREAKING COLOR/TREND AN OFFICIAL EVENT OF normally reserved for quick- FORECASTS FOR FALL/WINTER 2006 purchase, impulse brands and seasonal bestsellers. “They tend to be brands with a very tight as- C OMPREHENSIVE sortment that offer really EDUCATIONAL PROGRAM unique products,” she said. Nordstrom carries DuWop ASAP GLOBAL products in 82 doors and it is moving the brand from central SOURCING PAVILION tester display units to wall space in 26 locations. “Nordstrom cus- tomers love DuWop products; we are constantly reordering,” PROUDLY ENDORSED BY said Janice Dusina, regional NATIONAL TEXTILE cosmetics manager for the re- ASSOCIATION tailer, “so when DuWop expand- ed the line, we wanted to give TEXTILE them a bigger visual impact on DISTRIBUTORS our floors.” ASSOCIATION DuWop reappeared this month at Studio at Fred Segal, which discontinued the brand over a year ago, according to managing director Shayne Hart. 18 WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2005 WWD.COM Quotas Key Issue in U.S., China Talks Continued from page one said the categories covered by the petitions were “bizarre.” a flood of Chinese apparel and textile imports, came “These products are surprising in that they are prod- Monday as a U.S. trade delegation including U.S. Trade ucts that are really minimally [produced] in the U.S.,” Representative Rob Portman and Commerce Secretary she said. Carlos Gutierrez wrapped up meetings with its Chinese For the petitions to be approved, the government has counterparts in Beijing. to determine the imports have hurt the domestic industry. The two sides did not reach a broad agreement on tex- Stephen Lamar, senior vice president of the American tile and apparel imports, but consented to continue con- Apparel & Footwear Association, said, “Just because the sultations. Domestic manufacturers and importers have imports have surged, that’s not in itself evidence that there been pushing for a trade agreement that would bring more has been an adverse impact.” certainty to the business climate than current safeguards. The government has 15 working days to accept or re- “The two sides agreed to keep the channel of exchange ject the petitions. Acceptance is followed by a 30-day open and continue consultations to find out an appropri- public comment period and then a 60-day window in ate way to solve the textile and garment issue,” said a which the government can reject the petition or imple- statement on the Web site of China’s Commerce Ministry. ment safeguards. China has urged the U.S. to ease restrictions on textile In addition to AMTAC, the group includes the and apparel imports and cut a deal similar to the one it National Textile Association, the National Council of reached with the European Union, limiting 10 kinds of im- Textile Organizations and the union UNITE HERE. ports to 8 to 12.5 percent growth through the end of 2007. Separately, the Hosiery Association, in conjunction In May, the U.S. invoked the safeguard provision with NTA, NCTO and AMTAC, filed a petition request- China’s export surge is a major issue on both sides of the Pacific. China agreed to when it joined the World Trade ing that safeguards be reimposed on Chinese sock im- Organization, holding $1.31 billion worth of imports in April period, the first four months since the WTO ports. The current safeguard quotas expire on Oct. 28. seven categories to 7.5 percent growth. There are six dropped the system of quotas that restricted global This case might help determine how smoothly and other petitions outstanding. The safeguards can be re- trade for more than 30 years. quickly safeguards can be renewed. newed through 2008 and more categories could be In some of the categories addressed in the new peti- The meetings in Beijing did pay some dividends on added at any time. tions, the rise in imports has been much more dramatic. intellectual property rights. “The U.S. textile industry will keep filing petitions For instance, preliminary figures through July 6 show “We have made some progress in areas of key con- until the U.S. and China reach a comprehensive agree- the skirt category with an 879 percent rise to 3.7 million cern to U.S. businesses, particularly with regard to [in- ment to moderate the growth of Chinese textile and ap- dozen, while the nightwear category is up 647 percent to tellectual property right] enforcement,” Portman said in parel imports to a reasonable level through the end of 3.6 million dozen. a statement. 2008,” Auggie Tantillo, executive director of the “They want all the categories that were under quota On that front, China agreed to increase criminal American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition, said in before the end of the agreement on textiles and clothing prosecutions, reduce export of infringing goods and im- a statement on the new petitions. to be put back into place,” said Erik Autor, vice presi- prove national police coordination. AMTAC is part of the group that filed four new safe- dent of international trade counsel at the National Portman also said there were still “serious concerns” guard petitions Monday covering nonknit shirts, skirts, pa- Retail Federation. “This may also be an effort to ensure about the lack of access U.S. firms have to the Chinese jamas, nightwear and swimwear, all in cotton and man- that all of these categories are included if and when market. made fiber. Last month, a petition was filed for cotton and there’s a comprehensive restraint agreement negotiated “China is a major beneficiary of the global trading sys- man-made fiber curtains. with the Chinese.” tem,” he said. “Along with that comes responsibilities, in- China’s apparel and textile imports rose 45 percent Julia Hughes, vice president of international trade at cluding opening their market to our products and services to 4.7 billion square meter equivalents in the January- the U.S. Association of Importers of Textiles & Apparel, just as we have opened ours.” WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2005 19 WWD.COM Diesel’s Adventures in Sex and Denim By Ross Tucker

NEW YORK — Sexual overtones and innuendo are nothing new in product marketing, but Diesel goes out of its way in its fall ad campaign to raise eyebrows. A friendly game of tick-tack-toe seems less so when the Xs and Os are lashed into the back of a shirtless model, his hands bound above his head and a smirk showing on his face as he glances over his shoulder at the two female players with coiled whips in the foreground. Three pairs of legs straddle a naked man in a display of Diesel footwear. In other shots, the head of a bearskin rug is fitted with a gag ball and two feet emerge from one pant leg. More than one print publication has balked at running the ads, which hit the pages of the August issues of magazines such as GQ, Details, Esquire, The New York Times Magazine and Vogue. (GQ, Details and Vogue, like WWD, are owned by Advance Publications Inc.) It’s a reaction the premium jeans manufacturer expected and with which it is comfortable. “Of course, there have been some companies that said, ‘Sorry guys, it’s too much for us,’ but we’re thinking that is what we need,” said Maurizio Marchiori, vice president of marketing. For Marchiori and Dan Barton, director of communica- tions, the new campaign marks the end of a two-year peri- od during which the company focused on upping the fash- ion quotient of its premium jeans. “If you looked at the history of Diesel, these last two Shots for Diesel’s new ad campaign rely on the power of sexual suggestion. years is where you’d see the most accelerated focus on qual- who recently shot Uma Thurman for Louis Vuitton’s winter campaign. A four-day ity,” said Barton. “The change of vision has been that we shoot took place in late April in New York and produced more than 20 sexually think we’re the best manufacturer of premium denim in the charged ads for Diesel jeans and accessories. world. Now, we’re applying that to the fashion collection.” Barton and Marchiori stress there is a difference in exploiting overt sexuality and The company has substantially increased its advertis- the way the campaign addresses sex. Each image of the Diesel campaign presents sex ing budget to support its high-fashion desires, allotting in a playful manner and leaves ample room for viewers to fill in the blanks of what $12 million to advertising for 2005. Nearly 90 percent of that budget, said Marchiori, is has gone on prior to the snapping of the shutter. devoted to print advertising. Diesel spends between 5 and 7 percent of sales, which “Diesel has always been provocative,” Barton said. “That kind of provocation al- came in at $1.25 billion in 2004, on a variety of marketing, said a Diesel spokeswoman. ways manages to manifest itself, and this campaign is no different.” The idea for the campaign was developed through a partnership between Diesel’s Marchiori believes consumers have become more intelligent, demanding more of a own creative team and ER27, a French advertising agency that is a division of Havas, reason to purchase. a $1.86 billion advertising conglomerate based in Suresnes, France. “We are conveying more of a message than just go buy jeans,” said Marchiori. “We try to achieve a new standard without losing the company’s DNA,” said Barton said that while provocation as a strategy requires walking a fine line, the Marchiori of the new campaign. Maintaining DNA means keeping the jeans the star of new campaign is in keeping with the company’s historical approach. the show. “The product is the hero,” he said. “It’s a lot easier to get a celebrity, knowing full well that it will sell quite well,” said To execute the idea, Diesel brought in photographers Mert Alas and Marcus Piggot, Barton. “This campaign definitely isn’t the easy road.” 20 WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2005 WWD.COM As Theory Shares Soar, Rosen Details Growth Plan

By Lisa Lockwood Andrew Rosen turing agent, was also an associate of Frank Mori and Tomio Taki, partners in Takihyo Ltd., which owned Anne NEW YORK — Theory, a contemporary brand that gen- Klein and half of Donna Karan. erates over $300 million in wholesale volume, is making Rosen said last Thursday, “It was always the inten- key moves to establish itself as a global player. tion that sometime this company could go public.” He Since June 9 when the firm went public on the Tokyo said Theory was developing a European presence and Stock Exchange, shares of Link Theory Holdings Co. Ltd. currently sells at stores in France, the United Kingdom, have risen 25 percent. The stock, which opened at 848,000 Italy, Germany and Belgium. yen ($7,577) on June 9, closed Monday at 1.06 million yen Asked what attracted him to a public offering, Rosen ($9,471.50). Both figures are at current exchange rates. said, “From our perspective, it’s not like we needed the Link Theory Holdings owns the Theory business in capital. But to expand the business is very good, and it Japan and the U.S. and is headed by Ricky Sasaki, 54, creates some valuation for the company.” chief executive officer. Andrew Rosen, 48, is president Over half the Theory business is currently generated of Theory Holdings Inc., the U.S. business, of which he by the U.S. company. In Japan, about 85 percent of the owns 11 percent. He doesn’t have an ownership stake in business is done through leased areas within Japanese Link Theory Holdings Co. Ltd., nor does he have a posi- department stores and 10 to 11 freestanding stores. tion at the Japanese company or on its board. Fifteen percent of sales is generated by specialty stores. In an interview in Japan, Sasaki told WWD he decided There are plans for new stores throughout the region, to take Link Theory public because of the brand’s growth including in Hong Kong and China. potential. “I had that idea before I bought Theory. There Rosen believes the Theory business in Japan is mirror- are few apparel companies whose business became bet- ing what is happening in the U.S., noting that the brand is ter after being listed, but that’s because they went public the dominant player in the contemporary market in at their peak and they are able to expand business only Japan. “Everything that’s done here is done there. Design, by starting new brands,” said Sasaki. “But we have many sold their stakes in the firm to Link International, creativity and merchandising ideas come from the U.S.,” factors to expand this brand — direct management of the Theory’s Japanese licensee, and Fast Retailing Co. Ltd., a he said. Some of the line is manufactured in Hong Kong business in the U.S.; opening the flagship shop in New multibillion-dollar retailer and owner of the 590-unit and Italy for both Japanese and U.S. distribution. York in fall 2006 [at 40 Gansevoort Street]; establishing Uniqlo brand in Japan and the U.K. The selling price was- In March, Theory named Istvan Francer as women’s business in European and Asian countries, including n’t disclosed at the time. Link and Fast Retailing together design director, replacing Jarlath Mellett, who left China; developing the accessories and licensing busi- purchased 89 percent of the U.S. firm, while Rosen re- Theory to focus on his retail venture, Jarlathdan, in nesses, and strengthening the men’s wear business. tained 11 percent. Tahari sold his stake in the company Amagansett, N.Y. Francer, who spent many years at “Theory will grow up to a global brand that generates and reportedly made over $50 million in the deal. Donna Karan Collection, is part of Rosen’s plan to con- 100 billion yen [$892.9 million],” he predicted. But according to sources, Tahari is extremely upset tinue to evolve Theory in the contemporary market. For the fiscal year ending Aug. 31, Link Theory that he has missed out on the public offering, especially “Strategically, our objective is to have a diversified, Holdings projects sales of $315.6 million, up from $224 since he was the principal investor in Theory and global business,” he said. “There’s no immediate strategy million a year ago. Net profits are expected to be $21.4 Tahari’s company continues to handle certain back-of- to aggressively overexpand. One area we see as a huge op- million, versus a loss of $16.9 million a year ago. fice functions. He was traveling in Europe and unavail- portunity is China. How quickly that happens remains to Through the public offering, Link Theory raised 9 bil- able for comment. However, a spokesman for Tahari be seen.” lion yen, or $85 million. Some 15,780 shares were sold to said he had retained counsel to deal with these issues. Despite the ebbs and flows of the contemporary mar- the public out of a total of 70,520. At the time of the IPO, Apparently, Sasaki had been pursuing Rosen and ket over the years, Rosen is confident of the company’s the company had a market capitalization of approximate- Tahari for more than a year and a half to acquire the positioning. ly $550 million, said Rosen in an interview last week. company. Sasaki was originally Theory’s sourcing agent “The beauty of what we’re doing, the real philosophy Theory, which was established by Rosen and Elie in Hong Kong and became its Japanese licensee in 1998. and concept, is in terms of owning the contemporary mar- Tahari in 1997, has built a solid following in the contem- Sasaki and Rosen have known each other for 25 years, ketplace,” he said. “I always felt the most important seg- porary market. The line began with great-fitting pants having met when Sasaki manufactured the Girbaud line, ment was contemporary. We felt it was a global business. with stretch and evolved into a complete sportswear col- which was part of Puritan Fashions Corp. (which was Our strategy has always been to take a leadership position lection using modern silhouettes and innovative fabrics. headed by Carl Rosen, and where the younger Rosen in the marketplace. We’re solely focused on that mission.” In 2003, Rosen and Tahari, who were 50-50 partners, worked, as well), in the early Eighties. Sasaki, a manufac- — With contributions from Koji Hirano, Tokyo

The model mom is set to converged Friday afternoon on the set of “The properties. Kravitz, who is a self-confessed open an upscale women’s Insider” in New York’s Times Square to fete the architecture and interior design junkie, designs Fashion Scoops clothing boutique, Abbie worldwide launch of the new Lange 1 Time his own homes to much acclaim, so it seemed a CAFE SOCIETY: Ines de la Fressange and Roger & Jesse’s, in Nashville, Zone watch by A. Lange & Söhne. The launch natural move for him to start his own firm to do Vivier creative director Bruno Frisoni hosted a where she now resides. was broadcast simultaneously via satellite it for others. The next project for Kravitz Design, dinner during couture last week for some 20 The store, which will be across 30 cities, including Paris, Geneva and which has already made a chandelier for guests, including Princess Clotilde Courau, christened with a launch the company’s base in Glashütte, Germany. Swarovski’s Crystal Palace collection, is a luxe Carter is sure to be on the lips of many soon, two-story recording studio with ocean views at the who is married to Prince Emmanuel Philibert of party on July 22, will with two movies coming out this summer, Setai Resort and Residences in Miami Beach. Savoy; French actress Julie Gayet; furniture stock labels such as designer Herve Van Der Straten; industrial including “Sky High” and the much-anticipated Habitual, Leatherock, “Dukes of Hazard.” And the new timepiece designer Ora-Ito, and the high-profile Paris Niki Taylor attorney George Kiejman. De la Fressange gave Beautiful People, Joe’s should come in handy for those red-carpet NO PLANE JANES: Passengers arriving in Paris the event a tropical theme, with cutout Jeans, True Religion, appearances ahead — it took watchmakers Sept. 1 for the next round of trade shows may alligator place settings and a table loaded Bejeweled and Streets Ahead. Taylor is also set to three years to develop the watch, which can tell stumble into a fashion show right off the plane. with bananas and other exotic fruits. “I like launch her first fragrance, Begin by Niki Taylor, in the time in 24 different time zones. As part of a bid to refresh its image and assert the getting different people and watching how September as an exclusive with May Co. fashion factor in its stores, the Charles de Gaulle they interact,” quipped de la Fressange, who KRAVITZ ON DESIGN: Could Lenny Kravitz be the airport is planning a catwalk showcase in terminal is Vivier’s director of communication. RIGHT ON TIME: A motley crew including former next celebrity fashion designer? Last week, the 2E. Suppliers, press and passengers can get an “Wonder Woman” actress Lynda Carter, social singer made official Kravitz Design, his newly eyeful of clothing selected by Paris’ Prêt-à-Porter TAYLOR MADE: Niki Taylor has spent years modeling gadabout Fabien Basabe, Lara Spencer and established firm specializing in the design of organizers, plus a sampling of young designers. the latest fashions — now she plans to sell them. Justin Chambers from ABC’s “Grey’s Anatomy” products and commercial and residential Talk about a long runway. “Too much of a good thing is even better.” Mae West

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REGISTRATION INFORMATION: 218.723.9792 EXHIBIT INFORMATION: 818.593.5000 Mae West is not associated with, and does not endorse or support, the MAGIC event. 22 WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2005 WWD.COM May Annual Marks End of an Era

By David Moin in annual sales, though approximately 150 stores could Kolker could be a guest lecturer. For several seasons, be sold off to satisfy government regulatory concerns. Kolker, as a senior adviser to May, advised management NEW YORK — An era ends Wednesday when May “A stronger Federated in turn makes the mall busi- and the board about May’s misguided path and two years Department Stores Co. stages its last annual meeting ness stronger,” the real estate ceo said. “And it’s ab- ago sent a letter to board members, blaming management here, marking the demise of a giant retailer and famil- solutely good for shareholders. When the merger was for the company’s “precipitous free-fall,” which made it iar nameplates, job cuts and relief for shareholders who announced I bought stock. But the May board complete- vulnerable to takeover. He cited “egregious slowness and get cash and stock in the acquiring Federated ly blew it. They should have dealt with Gene [Kahn, for- indecision” in adjusting inventory levels to the realities Department Stores. mer chairman and ceo of May] a long time ago. They of sales trends, excessive pressure on vendors for al- The irrevocable nature of the meeting, where share- painted themselves in a corner and allowed themselves lowances and markdown money, a failure to counter holders are expected to approve the merger, under- to be vulnerable to a takeover. Shareholders were suf- Kohl’s and a flawed private label strategy that neglected scores retailing’s simple rule: survival of the fittest. fering; they are doing fine now, but think about what the May’s core customer and was too young in approach. Retail experts say May represented an stock could have done,” had the board In addition, external forces beyond May’s control, obsolete business model, a failure of been more decisive, he said. such as the rise of Wal-Mart and Target and the growth leadership and a stagnant stock. “Not to take anything away from of specialty chains, also chipped away at May’s market And at least one former May senior Federated, which has long had a won- share. May was trapped in the middle market, as prima- executive, Ken Kolker, said the compa- derful franchise and brilliant leader- rily a moderate to better department store business, ny’s acquisition by Federated might ship, but it’s true. May could have whereas consumers were gravitating more toward dis- have been avoided if executives had bought Federated at one time,” said counters and upscale chains. heeded danger signals years ago. Isaac Lagnado, president of the “I want you to know that May is in deep trouble, in The months ahead will bring a se- Tactical.org consulting firm. every which way, but the situation is not hopeless,” ries of painful downsizings, as May “The reality is that May Co. was Kolker wrote in the letter. gets absorbed by Federated. After the renown to have consistent profits and The board’s reaction? “I never received a single call, deal is closed — expected this fall — predictable gross margins, great sys- note or reference from any of these people,” Kolker re- May’s St. Louis headquarters and the tems and good regional franchises. It called, except for a request from John Dunham, then a regional offices will be dismantled, had the capital-raising power to be the director and now May chairman, ceo and president, and nameplates such as Filene’s and acquirer, until the last six years.” who, Kolker said, asked him to pack up and leave May’s Marshall Field’s will eventually be re- Lagnado added that the deal repre- office at 1120 Sixth Avenue. placed by Federated’s Macy’s and sents an enormous undertaking for May officials declined to address Kolker’s assertions. Bloomingdale’s brands. Federated is Federated, involving figuring out what The company said in a statement: “The document is a pri- expected to start interviewing May ex- to do with properties that must be vate letter from one person to the board, and we have no ecutives this fall and retain some. comment on it.” Kahn could not be reached for comment. Federated has said layoffs won’t begin until March. Before his decade serving as senior adviser, Kolker Still, Federated is paying $17.75 in cash and 0.3115 of There are a lot of happy was ceo of May Merchandising and May Department a Federated share, for each May share. Federated “ Stores International, the central buying and private shares are trading at around $75, bringing the current shareholders, and if you are a label arms of May. Kolker, 81, started his career at value of the offering to around $41 a share. May is trad- Abraham & Straus. He is a graduate of the Harvard ing at just over $41 a share and has risen about $6 since big holder, you’re probably Business School and the Wharton School of the the deal was announced last March. overjoyed. But thousands of University of Pennsylvania. Federated is paying $17 billion, including $6 billion “David Farrell and Ken were the driving merchant in debt, for May, and has already announced it would people will be losing their jobs. force in our glory days,” said an insider familiar with sell May’s and its own credit card portfolios to Citigroup Kolker’s experience with the May board. for $4.5 billion to help pay for the May acquisition. They are the victims. It didn’t “I was there to help May succeed,’’ Kolker said. “The “There are a lot of happy shareholders, and if you only thing that got to me was to see May not succeed. are a big holder, you’re probably overjoyed,” Kolker have to be that way. Why will these people be on the street? That’s what gets said in an interview. “But thousands of people will be ” to me.” losing their jobs. They are the victims. It didn’t have to — Ken Kolker Through his correspondence to May, Kolker notified be that way.” Kahn and other executives of the problems he saw suf- With the takeover, May’s culture is now an anomaly, shed, and how to integrate and absorb the best staff focating the company. The selling floors had become added Elaine Hughes, of the executive search firm E.A. from May. “It’s a big deal, but worth it.” “ossified” by subpar performing vendors, and advertis- Hughes & Co. There are other lessons to be learned from the May ing should be redirected, he wrote. May’s formula for “May is probably the last of the big department stores to experience. profitability became one of offsetting reduced turnover follow a tradition where American corporations took the “The big story here is that David Farrell departs and and slimmer margins with expense management and a role of the parent,” she said. “They protected you, insured the company goes downhill,” said Emanuel Weintraub, “soaring increase in vendor allowances.” your pension and benefits and long-term job security. president and ceo of Emanuel Weintraub Associates He documented specific items that should be exploit- Employees had a sense of entitlement. With the breakup of management consultants. Farrell became chairman and ed, in one case pointing to a men’s piqué knit polo, the telephone conglomerates, the demise of steel compa- ceo in 1979, and through dictatorial control that lasted priced at $12.99, that one season produced a transaction nies, and with May getting bought by Federated, it’s more almost two decades, he built May into one of the most increase of 105 percent and a 45 percent boost in dollar than apparent that model has disappeared. powerful and profitable retailers in America. He was sales, despite a decline in the average selling price. “Anyone pursuing a career in retailing should realize succeeded in May 1998 by Gene Kahn, who was forced More sales promotion dollars needed to be deployed to that your greatest security is in your own talent skills — out in January 2005 after some five years of declining such products offering compelling values, Kolker urged. not the environment that houses them,’’ Hughes added. profits and market share. May’s performance, on the He also recommended brands May should sell, in- “This merger is good for the department store and other hand, was exemplary under Farrell, who had a cluding New Balance at one time, and suggested others shopping center industries,” said one chief executive of- strong track record except when it came to succession get pared back, like Levi Strauss. ficer of a real estate company. “Federated becomes a planning, retail experts said. Kolker said he won’t take a stand at the annual meet- much stronger company, in every way — its footprint, “Without good leadership nothing else counts,” ing, and will be there primarily to say hello “to some of economies of scale and ultimately the balance sheet.” Weintraub said. “You dissipate capital and you diminish the old boys.” With the deal, Federated doubles its store count and assets. I think they will be studying this case at the “I have no ax to grind anymore,” Kolker said. “I volume to about 1,000 department stores and $30 billion Harvard School of Business. This will be a classic.” made my point.” WWD The Magazine

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REAL-ITY BITES: Life’s copies above its promised rate base of 400,000 for its first launches in August, had tried to buy exclusive rights to getting more complicated issue, thanks to a newsstand sell-through of about 50 percent. coverage of Jessica Simpson’s 25th birthday party, which for Real Simple, or at Meanwhile, now that Stewart is out of the hoosegow and took place Saturday night in Los Angeles. OK had MEMO PAD least more competitive. under house arrest at Cantitoe Farm in Bedford, N.Y., the tentatively arranged for exclusive rights to photos of the Just Martha Stewart Living flagship has finally event from a photographer for the WireImage photo agency weeks after Real Simple founding editor Susan turned a corner. Its July issue, up 121 when People swept in and offered more money. A People Wyland launched the look-alike title Weekend percent to 83.29 ad pages, puts the spokeswoman confirmed the magazine had purchased the for Hearst Magazines comes word that Martha magazine above last year’s year-to-date total images but denied a claim that it also had a reporter on Stewart Living Omnimedia is also incubating a by 6.02 percent, to 419.47 pages. August hand at the private bash — a claim which, if true, would new magazine. And let’s just say it won’t be is also expected to post double-digit page have suggested the magazine had paid for full access, not offering Martha’s usual tips on folding napkins gains. — Sara James just photographs. While OK has indicated it plans to pay into elaborate pinwheels or building doormats stars for their stories, People and other U.S. magazines out of 165-foot lengths of nautical rope. LABOR CONTRACTIONS: Almost two weeks generally disavow the practice. The People spokeswoman The new title, said to be aimed at a after declaring it had reached a deal with Us also denied the magazine paid $100,000-plus for the twenty- and thirtysomething audience, will Weekly editor in chief Janice Min, Wenner photos, but declined to specify how much it did pay. — J.B. likely be a direct competitor to Real Simple Media has yet to get her signature on paper, with shades of Budget Living and Domino, according to sources with knowledge of the FINO FINIS: Leah Karp, late of Marie Claire, will replace Filipa according to editors who work in the service situation. No one involved with the Fino as accessories director at Allure. Fino recently left the sector. Like Weekend, the new Omnimedia negotiations would comment publicly, but magazine to take Danya Unterhalter’s place as senior title is being developed by former Real Min, whose previous contract expired earlier accessories editor at Vogue. Unterhalter had resigned for Simple editors: Tom Prince, Elizabeth Graves this month, is said to be seeking more personal reasons. It is the second time she has exited and Rory Evans. Sources didn’t know a time generous perks, such as more vacation time. Vogue. — S.J. line for the launch. “We have a lot of new The two sides are, however, believed to be in ideas and projects in development, but agreement on Min’s salary of $1.2 million a LOADED QUOTES: OK, so Celebrity Living’s much-hyped nothing to announce at this time,” said a year. Of that, $200,000 is said to be tied to “exclusive interview” with Lindsay Lohan did happen, in a spokeswoman for Omnimedia. Min’s role in developing a new weekly title. manner of speaking — although it was neither exclusive nor Real Simple’s numbers certainly invite the A prototype has already been shown to focus a real interview. Leslie Sloane Zelnick, Lohan’s knockoffs. For the second half of 2004, the groups; one source said it is closer in spokeswoman, called WWD Monday to say a reporter from magazine was up 20.6 percent in paid concept to People than to other celebrity the magazine was present at a press junket for “Herbie: circulation, to 1,809,792, according to tabloids, mixing human interest stories with Fully Loaded,” where the actress fielded questions from a statements filed with the Audit Bureau of Hollywood coverage. — Jeff Bercovici variety of publications in a roundtable session. That session Circulations. And Media Industry Newsletter was the source of most of the quotes attributed to Lohan in has it up 29.6 percent in ad pages to 856.3 PARTY CRASHERS: The U.S. version of OK a July 4 cover story, clarified Sloane. Responding to a report through July, with one additional issue published this year. hasn’t even launched, but it’s already upping the in yesterday’s paper that she had written the quotes herself, Domino — like WWD, part of Advance Publications Inc. — competitive ante in the celebrity access game. According to Sloane added, “Anyone who knows me knows I would never has had a similarly successful launch, delivering 100,000 a source with ties to several weekly titles, OK, which use the words ‘thankful’ or ‘blessed.’ That’s Lindsay.” — J.B. Chicago Merchandise Mart Out to Make StyleMax Show ‘Red Hot’ By Beth Wilson Board Inc., which hosts the fashion show every year. Buyers are invited to a free 6 p.m. “Chicago is…Red “Chicago is…Red Hot!” blends a mix of veteran de- Hot!” fashion show at the Mart’s Special Events CHICAGO — Fashion industry promoters here posed a signers, such as Lauren Lein and Caroline Rose, who Atrium, while the public attends an 8:15 p.m. show at promising question: Why not combine one of the participated in past shows, as well as emerging lines the same location. Tickets to the second show, recep- Windy City’s top local-talent fashion shows with the such as Doris Ruth, Double Stitch and Evil tion and dinner cost $150 and VIP preferred city’s top women’s apparel market? Kitty. Newcomers were selected by a 10-per- seating with reception and dinner costs Then, not only will Chicago designers have their son industry panel and were required to be $250. Proceeds from the event, sponsored by moment in the spotlight, in front of hundreds of retail- selling to at least one store. Richard H. Driehaus, Target, Fashion Group ers and buyers, they also will enjoy the opportunity to “We’re extremely excited,” said Erika Foundation of Chicago, the Stanley Paul do some real business. Retailers, meanwhile, always Simmons, who runs Double Stitch, a line of Foundation, Nordstrom and others, go to- clamoring for fresh merchandise, can choose from funky crocheted apparel with her twin sis- ward the Apparel Industry Foundation’s some truly undiscovered lines. ter, Monika Simmons. “For us, it will let a lot scholarship fund. Some 600 to 700 people That thought becomes reality next month when of people know that we’re here, and that are expected to attend each show. Chicago’s Merchandise Mart unveils its August there’s a lot of talent in Chicago. We’re try- McCullough, meanwhile, hopes the fashion StyleMax market, running Aug. 13 to 16, including the ing to get as many contacts as possible and show and incubator will generate excitement sixth annual “Chicago is…Red Hot!” fashion show and we want to build a lot of relationships with and interest in the newest StyleMax market. a designer incubator. people not just from Chicago.” “We hear from stores over and over that The incubator will house exhibit space for 19 of the Participants in the incubator are required they want to differentiate themselves,” she city’s newest designers participating in the Aug. 14 to attend a “Trade Show 101” seminar to be said. “This gives them a chance to do that.” fashion show, which showcases 46 Chicago area held at the Merchandise Mart on July 26 to The Mart traditionally hosts StyleMax women’s, men’s and children’s apparel and accessory ensure designers understand the ins and A hooded duster from two times a year, in October and March. Due designers. outs of conducting business at the market. Double Stitch, a new to the show’s popularity, market organizers “We thought the best thing we could do for the kids “By putting these design ingenues in participant in “Chicago added an August show and next year will is to put them in front of stores,” said Susan front of buyers at such a prominent trade Is...Red Hot!” launch four versions of StyleMax in McCullough, vice president of apparel for show, we hope to help them secure space for their February, April, August and October. Merchandise Mart Properties Inc. “Even if they don’t lines in the stores, so their businesses will continue to StyleMax, now held on the Mart’s recently renovat- sell anything, they’ve been through the process. If grow,” said Dorothy Fuller, president of the Apparel ed seventh floor, features more than 4,000 lines spread nothing else, they’ve learned something valuable.” Industry Board Inc. “We intend to keep the apparel in- over roughly 100,000 square feet. Buyers have said To make this opportunity happen, Merchandise dustry in Chicago flourishing and want to promote they appreciate the ease of shopping so many re- Mart Properties partnered with the Apparel Industry these rising stars in any way we can.” sources on one floor. DETAILS CELEBRATES 5UNFORGETTABLE YEARS.

leading the men’s revolution Be a part of the 5th Anniversary Issue. October close: July 20th On sale September 27th

PHOTOGRAPHY: TOM MUNRO 26 WWD/GLOBAL, JULY 2005 WWD.COM Spin Doctors

LONDON — Joshua Reynolds and George Stubbs were two ambitious, middle-class men who relied on the passions and vanity of 18th-century England’s monied upper classes to make their fortunes. Each made his name with portrait painting. One specialized in humans, the other in horses, and they shared patrons, including the Prince of Wales, who was to become King George IV, and the horse-loving Second Marquess of Rockingham. Now, the two painters have another thing in common — each is the subject of his own summer show here. “Joshua Reynolds: The Creation of Celebrity,” which runs until Sept. 18 at Tate Britain, takes a look at the social-climbing, self-aggrandizing painter whose portrait fees were the highest in London and who eventually became president of London’s Royal Academy of Arts. A few minutes’ drive north of the Tate, the National Gallery is show- ing “Stubbs and the Horse,” a look at Stubbs’ meticulously detailed paintings of racehorses and heroic portraits of the animals, in the manner of ancient Greek statues. The show runs until Sept. 25. It’s not surprising that Reynolds was so popular among the Arts rich: He made all his subjects look grand, including himself. The show begins with a room hung with self-portraits, which Reynolds used as marketing tools. He painted himself as an artist, academ- ic (carefully posed near a marble bust), knight and shepherd in a & nativity scene, all to ensure he remained in the public’s view. “He was conventional. His specialty was aggrandizing the very People grand and the ruling classes,” says Philip Mansel, the author and histo- rian, whose latest book, “Dressed to Rule: Royal and Court Costume from Louis XIV to Elizabeth II,” will be published in the U.S. by Yale University Press next month. “If you had your portrait painted by Reynolds, it proved you had the money to afford him — and that you were intellectually correct.” Reynolds’ portraits of military and intellectual celebrities show their subjects at the height of their powers. There’s Augustus Hervey, the third Earl of Bristol, whose Clockwise from top left: Joshua Reynolds’ “Self Portrait”; “Daisy”; “Mrs. Baldwin”; George face and chest are spotlighted by a flash of gunpowder. He stands against a backdrop Stubbs’ “The Marquess of Rockingham’s Scrub With John Singleton Up,” and “Whistlejacket.” of smoking ruins after a victory in Havana. Portraits of Reynolds’ intellectual pals show the 18th-century popular novelist Laurence Sterne and Samuel Johnson, the dignity of these animals had never before been depicted on canvas. The show has famed lexicographer and idol of Boswell. been built around Whistlejacket, the iconic, life-size portrait of the horse belonging to The most glamorous portraits of all, not surprisingly, are of the ladies. There’s Lady the Second Marquess of Rockingham. Bampfylde, looking gorgeous — and slightly tragic — in her long white dress (her mar- “Stubbs took the painting of the horse in 18th-century England onto a completely riage was not a happy one), and the actress Kitty Fisher dressed as Cleopatra. Reynolds different plane,” says Susan Foister, who curated the show, “but he was not content to often dressed his subjects in elaborate costumes to give them a sense of grandeur. show the turf world only. He was never lacking in ambition, and during his career, Like Reynolds, Stubbs relied largely on the patronage of the great Whig dynasties raised horse painting to an heroic level.” of the time, who had money to spare and family members who needed glorifying on In addition to the life-size portraits, Stubbs painted his “Horse and Lion” pictures, canvas. The Whigs were a political party generally opposed to the power of the grand depictions of the two animals fighting that recall antique, Hellenistic sculp- monarchy, whose members mostly came from the era’s great noble houses. tures and prefigure the style of the Romantic painters Eugène Delacroix, William Stubbs, a self-taught expert in horse anatomy, took advantage of the 18th-century Blake and Henry Fuseli. aristocracy’s love of thoroughbreds. It was a time when horses were bought and sold “Stubbs drew from the 18th-century philosophy of creating beauty through the de- rapidly, and breeding the fastest racehorses became an obsession among the wealthy. piction of fear,” says Foister, adding, “These paintings show a varied, extraordinary Stubbs painted scenes from the turf and sport world — grooms, jockeys and fox- and ambitious artist.” hunting scenes — as well as detailed, life-size portraits of horses. The heroism and — Samantha Conti

A steak soft Shakespeare in Love Appetite for the Devil taco dinner. NEW YORK — Lynn Collins is busy studying an as- NEW YORK — It seems people want their Mexican food like trology book in her dressing room at the Delacorte their fashion these days: good taste and high quality at a low Theatre in Central Park, where she’s starring as cost. Rosalind in the Shakespeare in the Park production Or so says Bob Giraldi, co-owner of Diablo Royale, a new of “As You Like It.” Not that she needs any more Mexican restaurant in the West Village here. “People want luck — the pretty Texan has had a darn good year. three-star food and three-star service, but one-star prices,” The actress, who declines to give her age he explains. The dilemma he finds in New York is that the (“Everyone always thinks you are lying,” she says), Lynn Collins only options are either expensive and fancy or, Chevy’s (the but is reportedly 26, was a relative unknown with ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY TGI Friday’s of Mexican) with nothing in between. Julliard on her résumé but not much else when she was cast opposite Al “It’s hard finding a place that serves good food and a good Pacino in last year’s “The Merchant of Venice.” All of a sudden, her name time without being ashamed to be either one,” Jason

was being bandied about for awards. Then came a role in “Il Mare,” to be Hennings, Giraldi’s partner in the restaurant, adds. THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY released next year, where she met now-boyfriend Keanu Reeves on the To fix that, the men have opened Diablo Royale, a small roadside-saloon kind of place on set. “I play Keanu’s secretary who falls for him,” she says, trying to West 10th Street serving fresh Mexican fare at reasonable prices. The margaritas are hand- suppress a smile. mixed; the salsa is a subtle blend of roasted tomatoes, peppers, garlic and olive oil, and the tor- Thanks to that relationship, paparazzi shots of her are suddenly tilla chips are served crisp, warm and complimentary. The menu is inspired by the version of appearing in the pages of People magazine. She’s sanguine about the Mexican food commonly found in California — casual and uncluttered dishes made with quality sudden fame. “It’s just another aspect of the business,” Collins says. “I’ve meats and garnished with little more than spices, lettuce and tomatoes. “I’ve spent time on the never been a big trashy magazine person. It’s my life and for it to be West Coast,” Giraldi says, “and that’s where Mexican food really is because of the large Mexican scrutinized is strange, but it’s part of being a successful actor. population. The food tastes better there than what’s in New York.” “I’m lucky to be with someone who’s tried very hard to get out of all It’s the sort of spread one would expect from two industry veterans (Giraldi is part owner of that,” she continues. “I don’t like sceney-sceney stuff,” she explains, “it’s several of Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s restau- too much.” Instead, her life is a low-key New York existence of dinners and The main room of rants and owns Bread Tribeca, and Hennings drinks with friends at neighborhood spots like Northwest and Isabella’s. A Diablo Royale. helped to open Italian eatery August near Diablo). nomad who’s been living set-to-set, she’s calling the Upper West Side home Keith Harry, formerly at Chanterelle, is in the for now, to be close to her Central Park stage. kitchen cooking carne asada and chicken mole As for preparing for the line-heavy part of Rosalind, which opens enchiladas. tonight with a Public Theater gala and runs through July 17, Collins only As for the decor, it’s as unfussy as the menu: had one month, but she found it easy. “I was falling in love anyway,” she high-backed wooden chairs, antler chandeliers, says, laughing. Her resulting on-stage enthusiasm for the romantic role is exposed brick and wood beams and a couple of a bit like watching Punky Brewster do Shakespeare, but it’s contagious: Mexican prayer candles for mood lighting. After Last week’s preview audience couldn’t help falling for her, too. all, Hennings says, “Fancy and Mexican food “It was a lot,” she admits of her whirlwind year. “But I was ready to don’t gel. It can be great food, but if the ingredi- kick it up a notch.” ents are so simple, why pay so much for it?” — Elisa Lipsky-Karasz — Emily Holt WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 12, 2005 27

Designer Account Executive WANTED: RECEPTIONIST High-end Eveningwear house seeks an Ladies’ Apparel INNOVATIVE DESIGNER experienced & enthusiastic person for office reception/management responsi- Jeno Neuman & Fils Inc., a fast grow- Fast growing Intimate & Sleepwear Co. is ing women’s apparel manufacturer, is 488 7th Avenue (36th Street) looking for a Creative & Fun Designer. bilities. GREAT BENEFITS!! Please Fax SUNNY/LOFT-LIKE SHWRM all resumes to: 212-786-6775 seeking a motivated & energetic pro- Must have 3-5 years experience with fessional to contribute to the growth & Live/Work intimates - bras, panties, etc. Must expansion of Jeno Neuman & Fils Inc. Wood flrs, Hi ceils, 2 baths, drmn work well with others. We are looking for experience at the Approx. 1100SF. Immed Occ … $ 3595 Email resume: [email protected] RECEPTIONIST major Dept Store level. Experience 212.629.8694 – MON-FRI – NO FEE Lingerie Co. seeks a pleasant person to with bigger Specialty Stores a plus. DESIGN answer phones & greet guests. Light office work req’d. Fax: 212-889-8411 Candidates must have excellent com- Broadway - Office Spaces Available munication & follow-up skills, plus a From 2,000 sq.ft. to 6,000 sq. ft. minimum of two years selling exp. SAMPLE MAKER $$$$$ Employment location is based out of Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 Sportswear Collection Runway Designer New York showroom. www.dumann.com TOP LEVEL WOMEN’S OUTERWEAR [email protected] 212-947-3400 (TEXTILE / WOOL) DESIGNER Please Fax resume with salary history to: (450) 430-0077 or E-mail: For Space in Garment Center BERNARDO FASHIONS LLC seeks a [email protected] designer who’s passionate, creative & a Shipping Person Helmsley-Spear, Inc. Ladies Dress Company seeks Shipping 212-880-0414 team player to complete its outerwear DENIM SALES team. Duties includes analyzing market Person with Garment Industry exp. & trend, selecting fabrics, completing Fax: 212-704-0462 Att: Shipping MANAGER Search For Space In Garment Center tech packs, following up sampling & Seeks by large China denim group to Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee fitting protos. Cooperative works with SILK CLUB sell Off-price/discount chains and novelty www.midcomre.com sales & production team. Must have stores. Must have proven track records. Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 minimum 3-5 years designer exp. & Sales Assistant Please E-mail to: [email protected] knowledge of fabric, especially wool. Established Better Sptswr firm seeks or Fax 212-827-0011 Showroom PH- 2200 Ft. Full Floor Proficiency in Illustrator. Exp. in private detail oriented, highly motivated Great Light- Windows on 4 Sides label plus. Must travel overseas for individual to assist the Vice President. Exciting Sales Oppty FASHION RESUMES CAD Designer-TEXTILE Some computer skills required. Please Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Staff Thru Executive-Wholesale/Retail Home Textile Firm seeks CAD Designer sourcing and sampling. Est’d girls 2-16, boys 2-18 sportswear Search- www.manhattanoffices.com Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates email / fax resume: 212-921-8888 import co. seeks aggressive self w/2 years minimum experience. Position [email protected] Attn: Farrah GILBERT CAREER RESUMES requires strong computer skills. Must Please fax resume to: (212) 594-9633 motivated sales exec w/ min. 5 yrs. exp. (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa or E-mail: [email protected] Must be detail oriented, and have solid be highly creative, adaptable, and organ- SR. SALES MANAGER Showrooms & Lofts fashionresumes.com ized. Must also be knowledgeable about industry contacts w/ regional & mid tier BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS fashioncareercenter.com Walmart A Must! accts. Great opportunity. Fax res: attn textile design. Adobe Photoshop and GRAPHIC ARTIST $70K [email protected] Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Illustrator knowledge req’d. (Pointcarre sales dept. 212-695-9721 ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 TOP CHILDRENS CO. GIRLS. Debra 800-544-5878 & Punto a +). Fax or E-mail Suzanna at: [email protected] 212-213-1683 / [email protected] JEANS SALES PRO Denim mfr. B’way showroom seeks sales Jersey City TD $70K pro to sell Family dollars, Value City, Designer $80 to 90K. Current exp in Vertical Retail Mfr. Cut & Sew Knits Burlington, Dots, G&G, Rainbow and daywear, panties, camisoles, etc. Large 2 Minutes form PATH Train novelty stores. Fax to 201-883-0837 or midtown company. Excellent benefits. [email protected] 212-947-3400 Email: [email protected] Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy STORE MANAGER SHOWROOM TO SHARE DESIGNER MERCHANDISER Sales/Merchandiser Flagship Store – Dallas, TX Better Branded & Private Label Ladies’ 1407 BROADWAY- Immediate Occupancy. Neckties Rapidly growing luxury women’s Includes: desks, phones & showroom. 3-D CAD DESIGNER Assistant Designer Sportswear/Outerwear Co. is seeking an Goldluck International, aleading int’l handbag & accessories co. is seeking a aggressive, motivated, positive thinker Call Jeff to discuss @ (516) 428-6767 Home Textile Firm seeking a 3D CAD Fast paced updated private label necktie mfr. seeks a merchandiser with sprtswr mfr seeks exp’d person with Manager for its Flagship Dallas, TX to join our Sales Team. Must have Designer w/2 years minimum experience. 5+ yrs of necktie experience. Strong store. Elaine Turner is building a brand Must have strong computer skills, be min 3-4 yrs. Seeking highly motivated, strong merchandising skills in the woven taste/eye for necktie market. Knowledge &needs an energetic, sales oriented sportswear market, and a great eye for highly creative, a team player, self- creative, organized, self starter with of necktie design a must. Excellent work excellent flat sketching, thorough person w/3-5 yrs of retail exp, dealing fashion trends. Product development motivated, detail oriented, and able to environment. Great Salary & benefits. with branded luxury goods. multi-task. Advanced Adobe Photoshop knowledge of trim & fabric markets & skills a +! Min. 3 years exp. and a proven Fax or email resume: 212-448-9288 track record in better Specialty/Dept. &Illustrator skills a must. Please Fax excellent follow up skills. Fast paced & [email protected] must be able to multi task. Exp in run- Responsibilities include hiring and Stores req’d. Fax to: 212-358-0031 or E-mail resumes to Suzanna at: managing other employees, creating & 212-213-1683 / [email protected] ning a sample room a must! Right hand to design director. Must be a achieving sales goals, calling & servicing team player. Excellent oppty for right customers, appearance & merchandising Accts Receivable/Chargeback person! Please fax resume: 212-302-1561 of the store, scheduling, creating and Accounts recievable & chargeback person managing multiple events & much more. w/ min 5 years exp with factor. Please fax resume att. A/R: 212-704-0462 DESIGNER Compensation will include salary and bonus/commission based on hitting Admin Since 1967 Assistant Designer sales & profit goals, as well as benefits SENIOR VP SALES Pleasant Midtown Co. seeks organized Excellent opportunities for growth. EOE Rapidly growing, luxury handbag & W-I-N-S-T-O-N self-starter to work with designer. Patternmaker Email: [email protected] access. co. with strong presence in Three years experience, knowledge of Contemporary women’s wear company major dept. stores seeks Sales Executive APPAREL STAFFING draping and patternmaking required. looking for an exp’d Patternmaker w/ with 5-8+ years exp. in sales, marketing DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Cutting samples and assisting with minimum 5-10 years of experience. strategy and management. 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Ability to sketch, spec, create great style & color sense to create [email protected] 212-947-3400 $$$ 45-$60K presentation boards, & communicate woven & knit tops for premium denim Wholesale Fabric Co. overseas a must. Min 5 yrs exp. collection. Design original models, I NEED SPECH TECHS!! Knowledge of fabric mkt. PRODUCTION ASST $35-50K [email protected] 212-947-3400 Seeking Salesperson w/5+ years exp. & patterns, trims, graphics & washes. Bi-Lingual Chinese. Strong PC Skills existing customers. Opportunity to work Product Development Coordinator Execute full tech packs for overseas Highly motivated, detail oriented & [email protected] 212-947-3400 Techinical Designer N.E. Location for commission/salary. Fax work exp. factories. Adobe Illustrator & Photoshop & financial requirements: 212-563-7157 organized indiv. Must be efficient in skills req’d. Travel overseas. Patterns, Fit, Sewing photoshop, illustrator, + word. Fax resume: 212-279-5929 PRODUCTION OPENINGS [email protected] Responsibilities to incl lab dips, style APPAREL STAFFING, LTD Janet 800-544-5878 recaps, presentation boards, ALAN WOLF communication with accts & overseas. Designer Asst./Prod’n Asst. A Leader In The Apparel Field INVESTOR Min 3yrs, exp in private label a + VP Sourcing $150-$175K Looking for creative, motivated person to Call (212) 302-0216 Fax (212)302-1161 Wovens/Knits/Sweaters. Better Mkt The greatest couture/designer/mid priced Assistant Designer join our design team. Flat sketching by and volume denim lines in the world Highly motivated self starter. Must hand or MAC req’d. Prod’n Dept. seeks Mgr Sweater/Sourcing $90K are now ready and waiting in NYC for have strong computer skills as above. organized, detail oriented individual Production Patternmaker a visionary investor to participate in Be able to assist designers in all capable of multi-tasking. Excel and Coord Prodn Sweater $65 their launch. Michael (914) 588-1057 aspects of design incl sample + spec EVENINGWEAR [email protected] 212-947-3400 Outlook req’d. Please fax resume: Fast growing Evening Dress Co. seeks pckgs, trim + fabric research, color Attn. Design Dept. (212) 391-7199 apprvl, etc. aProduction Patternmaker w/10+ years Send resumes to experience in Evening Dresses. Overseas [email protected] production experience a MUST. Great Designer - Jewelry opportunity & benefits. Fax resume & APPAREL JOBS Fashion Jewelry Co. based in Miami, salary history to: 212-947-8750 SCOOP KIDS in the West Village! 1)Artists: Girls-Boys-Juniors 2)Spec Techs Florida is seeking a jewelry designer. Seeking exp’d Managers and FT/PT 3)Designers-assoc-assist. boy-girl-YG men-Jr Will consider relocation allowance. Production/Sourcing Manager/$120k+ Sales Associates. Mgmt candidates Computer Marking - Grading - Hard Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) Must have prior exp. E-mail resume: JUNIOR Fashion Knitwear must have 2+ yrs exp. Clienteling and Pattern Cutting - Secure Data Storage [email protected] Top Jr. Urban Brand seeking Sourcing/ strong customer service skills a must. 25 Years of Experience - Domestic and Assistant Designers/Sweaters Prod’n Manager. Req: must have strong Please email resume to: Import - 3 Day Turn. Jr import/domestic co. seeking highly knowl. JR. Fashion Knit products with [email protected] Styles E-mailed Anywhere creative person w/min 2 yrs. swtr. exp. knit sourcing expr. Must have actual Call Michael at 201-868-5548 Ext. 125 Duties include: product packs, trim experience pricing and purchasing the DESIGNER KNITS product, off-shore (China a must). sourcing & follow-up w/overseas. Well est’d sweater mfr seeks designer w/ Excel/Mac Proficient. Fax resume to: E-mail resume to: [email protected] 3-5 yrs in latest fashion trends. Thor- Fax: 917-591-2521 Ph: 212-481-1941 TEXTILE SALES PATTERN/SAMPLES Donald 212-382-2549 ough knowledge of novelty yarns, nov- Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast elty stitches, Photoshop/Illust. Fax re- Textile Co. is seeking experienced work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 sume: 212-594-9094 [email protected] QUALITY CONTROL Sales Reps to handle Retail and SUPERVISOR Manufacturing trade in: PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Assistant Materials Coordinator Growing New Jersey domestic/import Candidate must have 1-2 yrs exp. DESIGNER manufacturer seeks individual to develop, Los Angeles, New York, PRODUCTIONS Qualifications include good computer NYC Based Garment Mfr. seeks some- implement and maintain systems to en- Dallas, and Chicago All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. (Excel) & organizational skills, exp w/ one with 2 to 3 years experience and a sure compliance with customer quality Call Sherry 212-719-0622. tracking overseas shipments, Strong great color sense to design Women’s standards & regulations. Will also inter- Full line of novelty fabrics produced verbal/written communication skills. contemporary knits; Design patterns, face with other departments. Qualified Responsibilities will include inventory Color yarn, Dye fabric, and Execute com- candidates will be aggressive, have good in China, shipping on & offshore PATTERNS, SAMPLES, control of fabric + leather, daily comm. plete tech packs for overseas factories. communication & computer skills, have and landed duty paid basis. Tremen- w/ overseas vendors, tracking l/dips, Should be fluent in Adobe Illustrator at least 2-5 yrs exp. in a manufacturing PRODUCTIONS and follow up on sample orders. &Photoshop. Overseas travel required. environment. Bilingual Spanish a must. dous opportunity. Please E-mail to: Full servcie shop to the trade. Please email resume to Please Fax or E-mail all resumes to: Email resume and salary req’s. to: Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. [email protected] 212 869 5047 / [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] no Now that fade there’s Kate has never felt more Zen while washing her clothes. 005. TERS. ® Registered Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated. © Incorporated, 2 Service Mark/Trademark TERS. ® Registered

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