Index

is revised index applies only to the first printing ofKnitting in the Old Way. If your book is from the first printing, the first word on page  isSweden . e affected pages are –, in which two electronic files swapped positions. e index supplied here corresponds to the printed page numbers. It complements a corresponding, revised version of page  in the Contents. As an alternative, you may use the Contents and index as printed in the book by simply renumbering pages – as – (Chapter , Color Stranding; Norway) and pages – as – (Sweden).

A , 199 Danish blouses, 132, 135, horizontal, 67 shepherd’s , 295 234–38 with tubular-cord edging, 121 Abbey, Barbara, 51, 66 Austria and , knitting of boat vertical, 68 abbreviations Berchtesgaden , 276–77 basic directions, 128–29 elimination of when using Man’s Bavarian Vests, 271, 274 Icelanders, 174 C charts, 75 textured designs, 268–77 in Norwegian knitting, 146, for stitches, 57, 58, 72–73 traveling stitches, 224 154 cabled cast-on, 55 absorbency Tyrolean Jackets, 274, 275, 277 bobbles cables synthetic fibers, 34 Woman’s Bavarian Vest, 270 Aran fishing shirts, 260, 262, methods, 226–27 , 26 Woman’s Bavarian Waistcoat, 265 in patterns, 241, 255, 260, 261, acrylic , 34, 35 268, 269 directions for, 228–29 275 Africa, origins of knitting, 23 B Tyrolean Jackets, 274 symbols for, 73, 226, 227 Alafoss Spinning Mill, 176 calculators, as knitting tool, 40, 81 backward knitting, see knitting in Bohus knitting allergies, to wool, 28 camel, 33 reverse Bohus sweater patterns, 141–42 circular-yoked , 103 Canada, see Cowichan knitting fiber and , 33, 216 backward-loop cast-on, 55 boiled wool jackets, 268 cardigans motifs, 208, 209 bainin yarns, 260 bolero style, 139 basic plan, 116–17 Amager Island blouses, 235, balanced (double) , 58, Bolivia Bavarian, 272–74 239–40 101, 124–26 intarsia technique, 204 Berchtesgaden Sweater, 276–77 America, see United States Balkans Modern Interpretation of Cowichan Cardigan with Pictorial Motifs, 191, 193–94 American folk art designs, Bosnian , 295 Patchwork Sweater, 216–19 intarsia techniques, 206–8 edge treatments, 120–21 195–98 Book of Kells, 259 Icelandic knitting, 176 shepherd’s knitting, 295 Bosnian crochet, 292–93, 295 anchor motif, 254 basketry, as source of knitting Tyrolean Jackets, 274, 275, 277 Andean knitting, 204 braided designs, 226 variations, 117–20 designs, 184 bramble stitch, 229 angora, 26, 33 technique, 282–91 Woman’s Bavarian Waistcoat, aniline dyes, 162 British Isles, see Great Britain 268, 269 Bavaria, see Austria and brocade designs, 221–22, 234, see also jackets Aran Islands, knitting of Germany, knitting of density of knits, 36 236–38 carpal tunnel problems, 47 history, 259–60 carries, see left-hand carries; attaching , 77, 93 Bulgaria, motif knitting, 209 influence Hebridean ganseys, bulk-head spinners, 185 right-hand carries 242 basic directions, 59–61 double bind-off shoulder joins, bulky yarns cashmere, 33 patterns, 259–65 in Aran fishing shirts, 262 , 52–54 raglan sleeves, 102, 264–65 188–89 symbols for, 72, 73 in Cowichan sweaters, 185 invisible cast-ons, 97 similarity to Bavarian designs, decreases with, 101 two colors, 180, 181, 231 268 three-needle bind-off, 77 bird motifs, 191, 193–94, 196, determining , 35, 70 types of cast-ons, 51–55 straight saddle shoulders, 98 in Icelanders, 173–74 cat motifs, 216–19 textured designs, 223 198, 219 Icelandic yarns, 172, 176 Catholic Church, origins of knitting, 280–81 Bjarbo Sweater, 137–38 technique, 106–7 knitting, 23, 184 armholes blackberry stitch, 229 splicing, 66 attaching to with crochet, 77 blended yarns, 34–35 tips for working with, 90–91 Celtic art, 259 laddered openings, 92–93 sweaters, 161, 162 yardage requirements, 36 Central Asia, see Asia locked turning stitches, 91 blocks, in , 212– bump yarn, 158 centuries, see ; shaped, 110–11, 167, 280 13, 216–19 button-neck closures, 122, specific centuries square, 94–95, 262, 263 blouses 127–28 chain-path stitches, 232, 233 steeks, 86–87 Amager Island blouses, 235, chain-stitch , 275, 277 unshaped, 195 buttonholes 239–40 in Cowichan sweaters, 194 Channel Islands, 241 Asia Basic Blouse, 82–83 determining location, 118 307 charting cottage industries, 24, 176 double bind-off shoulder joins, F advantages of, 78–79 188–89 fabric, as cardigan edge bobbles, 228–29 in blended yarns, 34 double decrease, 58, 101, 124–26 cables, 226–27 knitting with, 26, 32–33 treatment, 120 double-pointed needles facings, boat necklines, 128–29 symbols, 72–73, 78, 224, 227, Cowichan knitting casting on, 51–52 229 buttoned front, 193–94 compared to circular, 39 knitting textured patterns, 220–21, Cowichan Cardigan with color stranding, 143, 161–62 222–23, 229 drawstrings, 276–77 early sweaters, 86 Pictorial Motifs, 191, 193–94 Dublin Museum, 259, 260 traveling stitches, 224 geometric designs, 185, 190–92 Fair Isle Sweater Shaped with cheese, roving, 175 history of, 184–85 Dutch influences,see Steeks, 166, 167 chest measurements, 70–71, shawl collars, 126–27, 186–87 Fair Isle Sweaters in Gansey 74–75 shoulder joins, 188–89 dyeing, 139, 162, 184, 216 Construction, 162–66 origins of, 162 children techniques, 113–15 Crasaus, Magna Brita, 131 E speckled frocks, 160 buttonholes for, 67 Vest with Tesselated Patterns, neck openings, 71 crewnecks ease 168–69 basic directions, 122–23 adjusting yardage for, 38 yoke sweaters, 170 half-grafts, 77 basketweave designs, 283, in percentage system, 70–71, 74 Fana Cardigan, 151–52 284–87 opening size, 71, 77 Eastern European knitting casting on, 51–52 crochet færoe, defined, 178 intarsia techniques, 202, 206– Færoe Islands circular versus double-pointed attaching sleeve stitches to 8, 280 needles, 39 armholes, 77 color stranding, 144, 178–79 Sweater with Invisible Join, patterns, 178–79 determining gauge, 70 Bosnian crochet, 292–93, 294, 214–15 circular yokes 295 sweater characteristics, 36 Eastern style knitting fashion knitting, 141, 199 Bohus sweaters, 141–42 determining gauge, 300–301 basic directions, 44–46, 47–48, full yoke, 103–7 Eastern crochet, 292–94, 295, 50 felting shoulder yoke, 108–9 297 traveling stitches, 224 avoidance of, 27 Berchtesgaden sweaters, 276 circumference, of sweater at as edge treatment, 120, 133 Ecuador, intarsia technique, 204 chest, 70 hooks, 292–94, 300 boiled wool jackets, 268 shepherd’s knitting, 292–95 edgings Dutch fishermen’s sweaters, cluster stitch, 229 Western crochet, 292, 294 crochet, 133 254 Coastal Jersey, 152–53 crook stitch, 232, 233 fabric, 234 Færoe Island sweaters, 178, 179 collars, shawl, 126–27, 186–87, fringe, 139, 160 northern European countries, crossed-stitch knitting, 22–23 , 276–77 194 cuffs,see wristbands 36, 146 Collingwood, Peter, 297 tubular-cord, 120–21 of sweaters, 36 twisted-purl, 151, 153, 180 color, effect on sweater design, 31 D as wool characteristic, 27 color stranding Edmondston, Eliza, 162 fibers adjusting yardage for, 38 damask designs, 221–22, 234 Egypt, early knitting samples, 23 fiber content of knitting yarns, American folk art designs, Danish blouses eighteenth century 26–27 195–98 history of, 234–35 Danish blouses, 234 luxury fibers, 33–34 Cowichan knitting, 184–94 similarity to Delsbo jacket, 135 Færoe jerseys, 179 natural fibers, 21, 32–33, 159, defined, 143 similarity to gansey Icelandic jerseys, 172 259 Fair Isle sweaters, 86 construction, 235 Industrial Revolution, 24 fine yarns Færoe Islands, 178–79 similarity to Ullared jerseys, 132 textured designs, 223 determining gauge, 69–70 floats, 144 traveling stitches, 224 elastic cast-on, 51, 52–54 intarsia motifs, 209 Great Britain, 158–71 Darlington, Rohana, 259 embossed textured designs yardage requirements, 36 Iceland, 172–77 Decorah, Iowa, Vesterheim Aran fishing shirts, 259–60 finishing edges intarsia techniques, 202 Museum, 282 Bavarian designs, 268 basic directions, 59–61 locked turning stitches, 91 decreases cables, 226–27 fabric or crochet edging, 120, managing multiple colors, basic directions, 57–58 increases and decreases, 228–29 133 144–45 crochet, 295 traveling stitches, 222–26 lace edging, 276–77 motifs in, 199 full-fashion marks, 108, 112 embroidery tubular-cord edging, 120–21 Norway, 146–57, 266–67 full-yoke sweaters, 104–5 confusion with knitting, 22 two-end finishes, 230–31 Samiland, 180–83 patterning with, 228–29 knitting designs from, 222, 239 Finland steeks in, 86–87 shoulder-yoke sweaters, 108–9 lusekofte patterns, 147, 148 basketweave sweater, 282 Sweden, 131–42 symbols for, 72 Tyrolean sweaters, 275, 277 Bosnian crochet, 295–302 Colvin, Jerimina, 184 V necklines, 124–26 ends, securing, 67 Sami-Inspired Tunic Sweater, combined method of knitting Delsbo Jacket, 134–36 English-style knitting, 50, 53, 143 181–82 basic directions, 45–46, 48–49 technique, 282–91 Samiland, 180 Denmark traditional sweaters, 297 traveling stitches, 224 Amager Island blouses, 235, Eriskay, ganseys from, 242 commercial yarns, see millspun 239–40 European knitting fishermen’s rings, as markers, 40 yarns Danish blouses, 132, 135, history of, 20, 23–24, 36 fishermen’s sweaters computers, as knitting tool, 41 234–38 intarsia techniques, 202, 206– Aran fishing shirts, 259–60 Continental-style knitting, 47, Danish Farmhand’s Sweater, 8, 280 Netherlands, 254 50, 143 279 laddering stitches, 92, 94 as origin of Cowichan see also European knitting early knitting samples, 25 Sweater with Invisible Join, sweaters, 184 night shirts, 25, 82, 234 214–15 Ullared jerseys, 132 Copenhagen, Denmark, 179 see also seamen’s jerseys corn motif, 218 textured designs, 234–40 see also specific countries designer yarns, 31 extended panels, in ganseys, fishing shirts,see Aran Islands, corners, turning knitting of square necklines, 129–30 diagonal patterns, 132, 133, 281 244–45 with tubular-cord edging, 121 diagrams, see charting eyed-needle construction, 131 fitting sweaters see also mitered corners dirndl skirts, 268 adjusting size, 38, 71, 81, 105–7, 109 corrugated , 51, 131, 132, divided cables, 226–27 modern adaptations, 81 159, 163, 165

308 309 percentage system, 70–71, Cowichan sweaters, 185, skirts, Aran fishing shirts, intarsia 74–76 190–92 98–99, 261 invisible joins, 204–7 short-row technique, 106–7 Danish Farmhand’s Sweater, history of knitting knitting in reverse, 200 vests, 110–11, 197 279 Aran Islands, 36, 98, 102, maintaining gauge, 201 Finnish Basketweave Sweater, 259–60, 261 overview, 199–200 Aran fishing shirts, 260 282 Austria and Germany, 268, two-step technique, 202, 208, argyle knitting, 280–81 Scottish Argyle Vest, 280–81 275, 276 209 basketweave designs, 283, 284, German-style knitting, see Bohus knitting, 103, 141–42 yarn-over join, 203 288–91 Continental-style knitting; color stranding, 143, 146 interlooping technique, 22–23 color stranding in, 145 European knitting Cowichan knitting, 184–85 invisible cast-ons, 97 converting directions for, Germany dating of samples, 19–20, invisible joins, 204–7, 212–15 220–21, 222–23 occupation of Norway, 154 22–25 Ireland determining gauge, 70 see also Austria and Germany, Denmark, 234–35, 239, 279 history of knitting, 259–60 intarsia techniques, 199, 201 knitting of designs from other textile textured designs, 259–65 with luxury fibers, 34 Gillow, John, 297 construction techniques, see also Aran Islands, knitting of flax 158 Islam, origins of knitting, 23, in blended yarns, 34–35 gloves, speckled patterning, 158, earliest examples of knitting, knitting with, 32 159–60 22, 23, 24, 25 47–48, 223 God’s-eye motif, 258 earliest sweater styles, 36, 82, fleas patterns, 147, 174 J see also lice patterns 86, 122 floats basic directions, 61 European knitting, 20, 23–24, jackets eliminating, 185 grafting live stitches to an 36 Delsbo Jacket, 134–36 securing, 143–44 edge, 77 Fair Isle, 86, 161–62, 163 fitted, 120 flower motifs, 196, 198, 212–13 half-grafts, 77 Færoe Islands, 178–79 Man’s Jacket with Woven Body symbol for, 73 Finland, 282 and Knitted Sleeves, 140 folk art, American designs, 195– grafting off, 59–61 ganseys, 235, 241–42 98, 210–11 Norwegian two-end knitting, graph paper, 40–41, 145 historical perspective, 22–25 266–67 fourteenth century, early knitting Great Britain Iceland, 172–76, 173–74 Two-End Jacket of samples, 25 color stranding, 158 Ireland, 261 Sunnhordland, 267 frame, knitting, 24, 42 saddle shoulder, use of, 96 knitting methods, 47–48 Tyrolean Jackets, 274, 275, 277 fringe, 139, 160 Shetland Yoke Sweaters, 170–71 left- and right-hand carries, Woman’s Bavarian Waistcoat, frocks, see Speckled Frocks Speckled Frocks, 158–60 230 268, 269 front bands, on cardigans, 117– textured designs, 241–53 Netherlands, 254–55 Woman’s Jacket with Woven Norway, 146, 147, 151, 266 Body and Knitted Sleeves, 19, 193–94 Greenland, beaded-yoke Samiland, 180 full-fashion marks, 108, 112, 115 sweaters, 103 139 , 280 see also cardigans full-yoke sweaters, 106–9 Guernsey, 241 seamen’s jerseys, 158, 159–60 fulling, of sweaters, 36 gussets Shetland Island, 88, 170 Jersey, 241 diamond-shaped, 84–85 South America, 23, 209, 212, jerseys G Fair Isle Sweaters in Gansey 216 early knitting samples, 25 Construction, 163 stockings, 20, 23, 158, 239 Færoe Jerseys, 178–79 ganseys half-gussets, 83, 153 Sweden, 103, 131, 132, 135, Icelandic, 172 Basic Gansey, 84–85 with saddle shoulders, 96–97 137 Shaped- Jersey, 88–89 Early Gansey with Simple triangle-shaped, 82–83 yarns, lack of information Steeked Jersey, 86–87 Knit/Purl Patterns, 243 underarm, 84–85 about, 20–21 joining edges Fair Isle sweaters, 86, 162–66 see also specific centuries basic directions, 61–62 Ganseys with Continuous H honeycomb designs, 226 binding off two sets of stitches, Should Straps and Sleeves, 61 248–49 half-grafts, 77 horizontal buttonholes, 67 connecting sleeves, 77 Ganseys with Extended Panels, half-gussets, 83, 153 horizontal panels, in ganseys, 247 Cowichan shoulder joins, 244–45 Halland, Sweden, 132 hosiery, see socks; stockings 188–89 Ganseys with Horizontal perpendicular join, 62, 97, 99 Halsingland, Sweden, 135 I Panels, 247 handspun yarns raglan sleeves, 102 Ganseys with Vertical Panels, bump, 158 I-cord edging, 120–21 short-row joins, 64, 107 245, 246 in Cowichan sweaters, 185 single-stitch joins, 102 Hebridean ganseys, 242, 249, Iceland smoothing joins, 279 skubbering, 178 characteristics of sweaters, 36 250–53 splicing, 66 three-stitch joins, 102 knitted in Aran Islands, 259 circular-yoke sweaters, 103 woolen versus worsted, 28–29, color stranding, 172 jumpers, early knitting samples, 25 origin of term, 241 31 saddle shoulders in, 96 history of knitting, 172, 173–74 K similarity to Danish blouses, hats Icelanders, 173–74 235 basketweave design, 282 Modern Icelandic Yoke Kells, Book of, 259 similarity to Dutch fishermen’s Norwegian, 156 Sweaters, 174, 175–77 Kiewe, Heinz Edgar, 242, 259 sweaters, 254, 255 head openings, sizing, 71 Icelandic sheep, 172 see also necklines Kitchener stitch, 61 weight of, 36 increases knit/purl designs garter stitch, 51, 151, 282, 283 heart motifs, 195, 197 basic directions, 56 ganseys, 241, 243 gauge heavy yarns, see bulky yarns patterning with, 228–29 Hebridean ganseys, 250 basketweave designs, 283 Hebridean ganseys, 242, 249, shaping sleeves, 75–76 in textured knitting, 221–22 combining knitting and 250–53 symbols for, 72 knit stitches, 45, 46, 49 crochet, 300–301 hemp, 32, 33 see also gussets Indian-head spinners, 185 knitted frocks, early knitting determining, 49, 66, 69–70 hems, split-welt, 82–83 samples, 25 maintaining in intarsia, 201 Henley necklines, 127–28 industrialization, effect on geometric designs hip bands knitting, 19, 24, 42 basketweave technique, 283–91 cardigans, 116, 117 inelastic cast-ons, 51, 55 fitting, 71, 74–75 initials, decorative, 132, 135

308 309 knitters markers influence on knitting P improving versatility of, 50 fishermen’s rings as, 40 appearance, 49, 70 Paludin, Lis, 297 men as, 24 Mary omas’s Knitting Book, types of, 39, 40 patchwork sweater, Bolivian, women as, 24, 239 22, 51 yarn size and, 36 216–19 works by two knitters, 137 medieval times, origins of Netherlands knitter’s graph paper, 41, 145 Amager Island blouses, 239 patterns knitting, 24 adapting for size and knitting medium-weight yarn, yardage Dutch Fisherman’s Sweater defined, 23 with Single Motif, 258 symmetry, 197 importance of, 95 requirements, 36 Dutch Fisherman’s Sweaters, converting written directions knitter-ese, 19 men, as knitters, 24 Sampler-Style, 255, 256–57 to charts, 220–21, 222–23, styles of working, 44–49 Merino sheep, 28 influence on Icelandic knitting, 224 symbols, 72–73 mesh pattern, 250, 251, 252 172 drawbacks of, 50 working in the round, Middle East, shepherd’s knitting, textured designs, 254–58 knitter-ese, 19 advantages of, 43 295 netting, confusion with knitting, 22 percentage system, pattern see also history of knitting night shirts, early knitting drafting, 70–71, 74–76 millspun yarns row-markers, 39–40 knitting frame, invention of, Icelandic sweaters, 175 samples, 25, 82, 234 percentage system, pattern 24, 42 Norwegian knitting with, 146 nineteenth century knitting in reverse speckled frocks, 160 Dutch fishermen’s sweaters, drafting, 70–71, 74–76 basketweave designs, 283 splicing, 66 254 perpendicular joins, 62, 97, 99 color stranding, 145 mitered corners Fair Isle knitting, 162 pewter clasps, 147, 151, 182 directions, 200 Danish blouses, 237 Finnish sweaters, 297 picking up stitches in flat construction, 43 square necklines, 129–30 Icelanders, 173 basic directions, 66 wrapping stitches, 201 mittens knitting origins, 20, 25 basketweave designs, 283 knot stitch, 232, 233 basketweave design, 282 speckled frocks, 159 shaped-cap sleeves, 114–15 knotless netting, 22 color stranding, 146 Swedish knitting, 131, 135 pictorial motifs Korsnäs district, Finland, 297 Eastern crochet, 293 textured designs, 223 American folk art designs, Samiland, 180 two-end textured designs, 230, 195–98 L two-end textured knitting, 266 anchor, 254 230, 266 nineteenth-century rhyme, 17 birds, 191, 193–94, 196, 198, lace edging, 276–77 mixture yarns, 35 ninth century, Icelandic sheep, 172 217, 219 lace shawls, 161 motifs Nordic knitting, see specific Bolivian, 216–19 lace weight yarns, yardage American folk art designs, countries cats, 216–19 cloud mass, 218 requirements, 36 195–98 Nordic star, 151, 153 Cowichan sweaters, 191, corn, 218 laddered openings, 92–93 North Africa, origins of knitting, Cowichan sweaters, 191, leaf motifs, 214–15 193–94 defined, 199–200 23 193–94 Lee, William, 24 incomplete, 154 North America God’s-eye, 258 left-hand carries intarsia, 199–200 lack of early knitting samples, 25 invisible joins, 206–8 color stranding, 143 see also pictorial motifs see also United States leaves, 214–15 described, 47 multi-ply yarns, see plied yarns North Sea Islands, shepherd’s lizard, 217 historical perspective, 230 knitting, 295 llamas, 208, 209 twisted-loop cast-on, 54 N Norway sheep motifs, 210–11 length, adjusting, 38, 71 Coastal Jersey, 152–53 spider, 218 lice patterns, 146, 147, 150, 155 nålbinding, 22–23 color stranding, 146 sunflowers, 212–13 names, included in patterns, 160 Fana Cardigan, 151–52 pilling in blended yarns, 34–35 see also initials hat pattern, 156 avoidance of, 28 knitting with, 26, 32, 33 Nassau blue, dyed yarn, 254 influence on Icelandic knitting, singles yarns, 31 linsey-woolsey, 34–35 natroje, Danish, 25, 82, 234 176 synthetic fibers, 34 liturgical knitting, 23 natural fibers lusekofte patterns, 146–50, 155 plackets, see front bands llama Aran fishing shirts, 259 modern sweaters, 154–57 platform stitches, 92, 94, 98 fiber and yarn, 33, 209 speckled frocks, 159 Samiland, 180 plied yarns motifs, 208, 209 use of, 21, 32–33 textured designs, 266–67 in seamen’s ganseys, 242 locked turning stitches, 90, 117, necklines , 31 splicing, 66 145, 174, 176 boat necklines, 128–29, 174 nylon, in blends, 35 yarn construction, 29, 30–31 button closures, 127–28 Portugal, origins of knitting, long-tailed cast-ons, 51, 52–54 O loops, in crochet, 294–95 crewnecks, 122–23 23, 48 fitting, 71, 74, 75, 77, 107 proportions, converting to lopi yarns, 175–76 round-neck cardigans, 118–19 O-stitch, 232, 233 Lunn, Ann-Lisa Mannheimer, 141 O-X-O pattern, 232 inches, 70–71 scoop necklines, 130, 276–77 purl stitches, 45, 46, 49 lusekofte patterns, 146–50, 155 shaping, 63, 109, 130, 182 old Norwegian sock cast-on, 52, luxury fibers, 33–34, 209 shawl collars, 126–27, 186–87 232 Q square necklines, 129–30, 234 Olympic Games, effect on M turtleneck, 123 knitting, 19, 147 qiviut, 33 unshaped, 255 one-row buttonholes, 67 magnetic row-keepers, 39–40 R maids, as knitters, 239 V necks, 119, 124–26, 167, open stitches, described, 44–46 make-one raised 168 openwork raglan sleeves adapted symbol, 220 needles crochet, 292 adjusting size, 71 basic directions, 56 angle of hold, 49 mesh design, 250 Aran sweaters, 264–65 symbol, 72 basketweave designs, 283 Orkney Island, 161, 170 joining edges, 102 Man’s Bavarian Vest, 271, 274 circular versus double- Outer Hebrides islands, 242 Sweater with Raglan Sleeves, Man’s Jacket with Woven Body pointed, 39 102 in Cowichan knitting, 185 rayon, 32, 33 and Knitted Sleeves, 140 in Fair Isle knitting, 161

310 311 reverse knitting, see knitting in sculptured textured designs, shoulder yokes, 108–9 steeks reverse 222–29 in color stranding, 145 rhyme, nineteenth-century, 17 seamen’s jerseys in blended yarns, 35 described, 86–87 ribbing ganseys, 241 Danish blouses, 234 Fair Isle Sweater Shaped with Aran fishing shirts, 260, 261 Great Britain, 158–59 knitting with, 26, 32 Steeks, 166, 167 cast-ons, 51 seamen’s iron yarn, 242 single crochet, 294 Fair Isle Sweaters in Gansey corrugated, 51, 131, 132, 159, see also fishermen’s sweaters Single Eyelet Rib, 222–23 Construction, 162–63 163, 165 seamless joins, see invisible joins single-stitch join, 102 fold line, 120 crew necklines, 122–23 I-cord finish, 120–21 seams singles yarns Shaped-Steek Jersey, 88–89 Fair Isle Sweaters in Gansey decorative, 132, 133 splicing, 66 Construction, 162 early sweaters, 98 Steeked Jersey, 86–87 yarn construction, 29, 31 stitch mounts fitting, 71, 74, 75 eliminating, 43 sixteenth century inelastic yarns in, 32 false seamlines, 234–35 described, 44, 46 Amager Island blouses, 239 purl stitch, nonstandard maintaining shape, 84 full-fashion marks, 108, 112, 115 Fair Isle knitting, 161 picking up stitches, 66 in Icelanders, 173–74 mount, 227 invention of knitting frame, 24 stitches Single Eyelet Rib, 222–23 joining, 61–62 sizes, see fitting sweaters; Speckled Frocks, 159 marker stitches, 82–83 blackberry stitch, 229 twisted, 276–77 selvedges, 60 percentage system cable stitches, 226–27 in V necklines, 124–26 shoulder seams, 61, 87, 129, skirts, Aran fishing shirts, 98–99, chain or daisy, 275, 277 ribbon-fold patterns, 234–35 188–89 261 chain-path stitch, 232, 233 right-hand carries seed stitch, 221–22 skubbering, 178 crook stitch, 232, 233 color stranding, 143 selvedges sleeves determining gauge, 35–36, 49, described, 47 problems with, 60–61 continuous with shoulder 66, 69–70, 201 historical perspective, 230 straps, in ganseys, 248–49 garter stitch, 151 symbol for, 72 Kitchener stitch, 61 twisted-loop cast-on, 53 Sentance, Bryan, 297 fitting, 71, 74, 75 joining to body, 77, 88, 98–99 knit stitch, 45, 46, 49 roll forward, tendency of Setesdal valley, 147 knot stitch, 232, 233 stockinette edges, 153 laddered openings, 92–93 seventeenth century raglan, 102 locked turning stitches, 90–91 rolling of edges, 120, 153 early knitting samples, 19–20, shaped-cap sleeves, 113–15 make-one raised increase, 56 Roman Catholic Church, origins 25 shaping, 63, 75–76 O-stitch, 232, 233 of knitting, 23, 184 Swedish knitting, 131 shoulder to wrist, 113–14 open versus twisted stitches, round-yoke sweaters, 141–42 shaping wrist to shoulder, 113 44–46 see also full-yoke sweaters crochet, 295 slip-stitch crocheting, 77, 293 purl stitch, 45, 46, 49 row-keepers, 39–40 full-yoke sweaters, 104–7 slivers, defined, 29 satin stitch, 147 rowing out, 49 necklines, 122–30 seed stitch, 221–22 saddle shoulders, 100–101 Snæhólm, Elín Guðmundsdóttir, stockinette stitch, 66, 120 royalty shaped-cap sleeves, 113–15 175 symbols for, 72–73 Dutch royal family, 254 Shaped-Steek Jersey, 88–89 socks traveling stitches, 223–26 wearing of Danish blouses, 234 Shaped Sweater, 112–15 basketweave design, 282 twisted stitches, 44–46 Shaped Vest, 110–11 earliest samples, 23 two-row O-stitch, 232, 233 S short-row techniques, 63–65, influence on sweaters, 20 wrapping stitches, 65, 201, 227 saddle shoulders 106–7 quotes about, 17 see also textured designs gussets and, 96–97 shoulder-yoke sweaters, 108–9 see also stockings stockings perpendicular joins, 62 sleeves, 75–76 South America argyle knitting, 280 shaped, 100–101 steeks, 88–89 intarsia techniques, 202–6 basketweave design, 282 straight, 98–99 vests, 110–11 motif knitting, 209 Bavarian designs, 268 sailors shawl collars, 126–27, 1860187 origins of knitting, 23 ganseys developed from, 242 seamen’s jerseys, 158–59 shawls, lace, 161 Sweater with Invisible Join, historical perspective, 158, 239 spread of knitting methods by, sheep motifs, 210–11 212–13 two-end textured knitting, 23, 162 shepherd’s knitting, 292–94 230, 266 Saint Ann, sisters of, 184 Shetland Islands Fair Isle knitting, 162 sunflower motifs, 212–13 origins of knitting, 23, 48 Sunnhordland region, Norway, sajet yarn, 254 color stranding, 161–62 textured designs, 223 Samiland impact of knitting in, 158 266–67 color stranding, 180 use of steeks, 88 speckled frocks, 158–60 swatches, determining gauge, 49, Sami-Inspired Tunic Sweater, yoke sweaters, 170–71 spinning 69–70 181–83 shoes, knitted insoles, 172 commercial spinning, 29–30 for Cowichan sweaters, 185 sweaters samplers short individuals, adjusting size effects on pilling, 28 calculating yardage, 38 Dutch sampler-style sweaters, for, 71 plied yarns versus singles, 29, construction techniques, 255, 256–57 short rows 30–31 overview, 77–79 use of by knitters, 71 basic directions, 63–65 woolen versus worsted, 28–29, evolution of, 19–20, 25, 36 samples, knitting full-yoke sweaters, 106–7 31 sample plan for designing, basketweave design, 283–84 shaped-cap sleeves, 115 74–77 yarn gauge, 35–36 styles, adjusting yardage for, 38 determining gauge, 49, 69–70 shoulder-yoke sweaters, 108–9 splicing strands, 66–67 Sápmi, see Samiland short-tailed cast-ons, 51 see also specific designs and split-welt hems, 82–83 techniques satin stitch, 147 shoulders sport weight yarns, yardage Scandinavia, see specific countries dropped shoulders, 32, 87 Sweden joins in Cowichan knitting, requirements, 36 Bjarbo Sweater, 137–38 scoop necklines, 130, 276–77 spotted frocks, see speckled Bohus Sweaters, 141–42 Scotland 188–89 saddle shoulders, 96–101 frocks circular-yoke sweaters, 103 argyle knitting, 280–81 color stranding, 131, 132 shepherd’s knitting, 292–95 seams, 61, 87, 129, 188–89 sprang, confusion with knitting, 22 shaping, 32, 100–101, 108–9, square armholes, 94–95 Delsbo Jacket, 134–36 see also Fair Isle knitting Man’s Jacket with Woven Body Scot’s steek, see steeks 111 square necklines, 129–30, 234 shoulder straps, 96, 248–49, and Knitted Sleeves, 140 squares, in sweater design, 212– Samiland, 180, 181–82 250, 261, 279 13, 216–19 310 311 Swedish maids as knitters, 239 Icelanders, 173 W from natural fibers, 32–33 two-end textured knitting, 230 knitwear fit, 110 novelty yarns, 31 Ullared Jerseys, 131–33 Swedish knitting, 141 waistcoats, see jackets plied yarns, 29, 30–31, 66 Woman’s Jacket with Woven textured designs, 223 Walker, Barbara G., Single Eyelet roving-type yarns, 103 Body and Knitted Sleeves, Tyrolean sweaters, 275 Rib, 222–23 sajet, 254 139 twisted-loop cast-on, 52–54 , as origin of knit designs, seamen’s iron, 242 symbols twisted-purl edging 222 singles, 29, 31, 66 adapting, 220 directions, 231 weights, yarn, 36–38 splicing and securing ends, charting textured patterns, Norwegian knitting, 151, 153 welts 66–67 220–21, 222–23, 224 Samiland knitting, 180 Danish blouses, 235 for steeking, 87 diagramming, 73, 78–79 twisted stitches divided or split, 82 synthetic fibers, 34 for stitches, 72–73 described, 44–46 ganseys, 241 unspun, 176 synthetic fibers symbols, 72 Western style knitting, 224 woolen yarns, 28–29, 31, 131, in blended yarns, 35 traveling stitches, 223–26, 226 basic directions, 44–46 146 as knitting yarn, 26, 34 twisted-purl edging, 151, 153, traveling stitches, 224 worsted yarns, 29, 31, 146 pilling, 28 180, 231 yardage requirements, 36–38 Woman’s Bavarian Vest, 270 see also bulky yarns; fine yarns; two-end knitting, 266–67 Woman’s Bavarian Waistcoat, T handspun yarns two-ply yarns 268, 269 Yerkovich, John, 297 tall individuals, adjusting size Norwegian knitting, 146 Woman’s Jacket with Woven Body seamen’s ganseys, 242 yoke sweaters for, 71 and Knitted Sleeves, 139 adjusting size, 71, 105–7, 109 tartan, bias, 279 two-row O-stitch, 232, 233 women, as knitters, 24, 239 Bohus sweaters, 141–42 tenth century, Icelandic sheep, 172 Tyrolean Jackets, 274, 275, 277 wool full-yoke sweater, 103–7 in blended yarns, 34–35 Hebridean ganseys, 250 tesselated patterns, 168–69 U textured designs characteristics of, 26–28 modern Icelandic sweaters, adjusting yardage for, 38 Ullared Jerseys, 131–33 woolen yarns 174, 175–77 Austria and Germany, 268–77 ultra-fine yarn Norwegian knitting, 146 shaping, short-row technique, charting, 220–21, 222–23 determining gauge, 69–70 Swedish knitting, 131 63, 108–9 Denmark, 234–40 yardage requirements, 36 yarn construction, 28–29, 31 Shetland Yoke Sweater, 170–71 embossed or sculptured World War II shoulder-yoke sweater, 108–9 underarms Sweater with Yarn-Over Join, designs, 222–29 bulky yarns, 90–91 effect on knitting, 19 Great Britain, 241–53 Norwegian red bands in 210–11 removing fullness, 108 Yorkshire, seamen’s jerseys, 158 Ireland, 259–65 undergarments sweaters, 154 knit/purl designs, 221–22 worsted weight yarns Danish Farmhand’s Sweater, 279 Z Netherlands, 254–58 Danish night shirts, 25, 82, 234 Danish blouses, 234 Norway, 266–67 United Kingdom, see Great ganseys, 242 , in cardigans, 194 two-end designs, 230–33 hosiery, 242 omas, Mary Britain speckled frocks, 160 discussion of knitting United States yardage requirements, 36 fragment, 22 American folk art designs, worsted yarns quotation, 176 195–98, 210–11 Norwegian knitting, 146 imported Icelandic yarn, 176 yarn construction, 29, 31 ompson, Gladys, 259, 260 as origin of Aran knitting, three-needle bind-off, 77 259–60 wrapping stitches three-stitch join, 102 styles of knitting in, 50 in cables, 227 top, defined, 29 traditional folk sweaters, lack maintaining gauge, 201 traveling stitches of, 21 wrapped-turn short-row Bavarian cardigan, 272–74 see also North America technique, 65 Danish blouses, 234–35 Unst, Shetland Islands, 161 wraps per inch methods, 223–26 determining, 36–38 symbols for, 73, 224 V tool for measuring, 37–38 Tyrolean sweaters, 275, 277 wristbands treadle -machine bases, V necks fitting, 74, 75 for spinning, 185 basic directions, 124–26 names on, 160 cardigans, 119 trellis designs, 226 Fair Isle sweaters, 167, 168 Y triangles, in basketweave design, Vancouver Island, see Cowichan yarn-over joins, 203, 210–11 284–91 knitting trinity stitch, 229 yarns vertical buttonholes, 68 bainin, 260 tubular-cord edging, 120–21 vertical panels, in ganseys, 246 tunic sweaters blended yarns, 34–35 Sami-Inspired Tunic Sweater, Vesterheim Norwegian- color effects, 31 181–83 American Museum, 282 commercial knitting yarns, 29, Sweater with Two-Step vests 30–31 Intarsia Motif, 208, 209 adjusting yardage for, 38 effect on gauge, 35–36, 69–70 Turkey, Bosnian crochet, 295–96 American Folk Art Vests, effect on sweater design, 30 195–98 fiber content, 26–27 twentieth century Fair Isle vest, 168–69 handspun, 28–29, 31, 38, 66, American folk art designs, 195 Man’s Bavarian Vests, 271, 274 178, 184, 185 Aran fishing shirts, 259 Shaped Vest, 110–11 lack of historical information argyle sweaters, 280–81 Woman’s Bavarian Vest, 270 about, 20–21 circular-yoke sweaters, 103 lopi yarns, 175–76 development of synthetic Viking settlers, importation of Icelandic sheep, 172 from luxury fibers, 33–34 fibers, 26 machine washing, 27, 28 events of, effect on knitting, 19 mixture yarns, 35 Fair Isle knitting, 162 312