228 OPEN ROAD'S BEST OF ITALY 8. BAY OF NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST HIGHLIGHTS L¤ Naples, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Capri, Amalfi, Ravello, Positano L¤the ancient wonders of Pompeii, the island beauty of Capri, Naples' National Archaeo- logical Museum, the pretty towns hugging the Amalfi Coast BAY OF NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST 229 INTRO COORDINATES The Bay of Naples is the Naples sits on the Bay of Naples, about gateway to the scenic island four hours south of Rome by train or car of Capri and the ancient if you take the A2. You can also arrive by Roman towns of Pompeii ferry or bus. The northern part of the and Herculaneum. In Amalfi Coast is another hour or so south Naples itself is the best Ro- of Naples by car if there is no man archeological museum traffic, but you will likely in Italy, and some say all of find the bus much easier! Europe, filled with the arti- facts from those ancient Roman towns that were covered in the ash and lava from the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius almost 2,000 years ago. A little way beyond the bay are the picturesque villages of the Amalfi Coast perched scenically on the slope overlooking the pristine blue waters of the Mediterranean, where you will find Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello, among others. A WEEKEND IN CAPRI & NAPLES There is quite a lot to do in and around the Bay of Naples. This weekend is packed with scenic vistas, relaxing islands, ancient Roman towns, exemplary museums, and more. Friday Evening As you pass through Naples, feel its energy, notice the chaos, smell the exhaust fumes, and be thankful you will be spending your weekend on the pristine island of Capri. Though we will be returning to Naples tomorrow to visit the National Museum and nearby Pompeii, for a peaceful evening there is no better place than the Isle of Capri. People flock to Capri be- cause the scenery is stun- ning, the pace of life relax- ing, the restaurants are ex- cellent, and the hotels world- class. With footpaths cross- ing the island, you can hike from cafe to cafe and town to town, along trails cut into the verdant hillsides. 230 OPENROAD'SBESTOFITALY NAPLES Naples & Vesuvio The Amalfi Coast Ercolano Procida Pompei Bay of Ischia Naples Ravello Vietri Salerno Positano Amalfi Sorrento Paestum Capri Amalfi Coast BAY OF NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST 231 Sunbathing and other water sports are also available. But the favorite pastime on Capri is to relax and soak up the incredible atmosphere. Despite the hordes of tourists that descend in the summer, Capri still maintains a quiet pace and a strong sense of community. Info: www.capritourism.com. But first we have to get here. From the train station in Naples take a taxi to the Stazione Maritima at Molo Angionino where you will catch either the ferry (traghetto) or hydrofoil (aliscafo) to Capri. Ferries cost half as much but take twice as long. Signs indicate which company goes to which destinations. Pick up a schedule for your return visit tomorrow. You arrive on Capri at the Marina Grande. From there, take either the funiculare, bus, or taxi up to the town of Capri. From you can walk to your hotel unless your hotel is out of town, then a taxi will be necessary. After settling into your hotel, take the time to wander the town to get your bearings. Grab a drink at a café and settle into the slow pace of island life. For dinner tonight, unless you find a place that catches your fancy, let’s try La Campannina, a fine family-run, upscale, but rustic establishment (see Alternative Plan Best Sleeps & Eats). Stay on Capri: visit the Blue Grotto, take the chair lift from Saturday Anacapri up to the top of Monte From our island refuge, we are going Salaro for a wonderful view of to head into Naples. To say that this the whole bay, hike down, visit city is chaotic is a gross understate- Roman Emperor Tiberius’ villa ment. Cars ignore red lights, scooters dating from 27 AD, or simply drive on sidewalks, and so on. Couple luxuriate in the tranquil ambi- this with the omnipresent threat of ance of the island. See later in getting your pocket picked, and it is this chapter for details hard to imagine why people come here. But they do. For our purposes this weekend, how- ever, all we need to do is get into Naples, head to the National Mu- seum, then train out to Pompeii for a visit. 232 OPEN ROAD'S BEST OF ITALY On the northwestern outskirts of the centro storico just off of Piazza Cavour is the National Archaeological Museum, which boasts an amazingly rich collection of antiquities culled from Pompeii and Herculaneum. Consid- ered by many to the best archeological museum in Italy, if not Europe. One of its best exhibits is the Gabinetto Segreto, the secret closet. Filled with erotic statues, mosaics and other pieces of art of a sexual nature, these pieces definitely give you an insight into daily life back in the Roman era. Info: Piazza Cavour. Tel. 081/440–166. Information and reservations: 848/800- 288. www.marketplace.it/museo.nazionale. Open daily 9am–7pm. Until 8pm on holidays. Closed Tuesdays. €6.50. After witnessing the treasures culled from the excavations of Pompeii, do yourself a big favor and visit that world-famous site. To get to Pompeii by train from Naples, go one floor below the Central Station to the Circumvesuviana station for a local train to Pompeii Scavi. The trip takes about 30-40 minutes. Tens of thousands of people died when Vesuvius erupted in 79 CE, submerging Pompeii with volcanic emissions. The lava and ash created an almost perfect time capsule, sealing in an important cross-section of an ancient civilization. BAY OF NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST 233 Before Pompeii was buried by lava, it was a major seaport linking it to the rest of the Roman Empire. As such it was an established city with a multicultural population of about 25,000 Greeks, Egyptians, Gauls, Iberians and every other nationality in the Empire. By 80 BCE, it was also a favorite resort for wealthy Romans. Shaken by an earthquake in 62 CE, Pompeii recovered, brushed itself off and went back to work. Seventeen years later on August 24, 79 CE, Mt. Vesuvius erupted, spewing ash and pumice that covered the city. In places, there are human forms and family pets forever preserved having died in the embrace of the volcanic flow. You can see where gardens, food shops, apartment buildings, and villas used to be. After many years of mismanagement, Pompeii is slowly re-emerging to be a true world wonder. The ancient city is now being restored to a semblance of its former glory. Pompeii is unique anywhere in the world, and is a must- see stop when in this part of Italy. Info: Open April – October 8:30am- 7:30pm. Last entry at 6pm. November to March 8:30am-5pm. Last entry 3:30pm. Admission €10. A WEEK IN THE BAY OF NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST The history of Pompeii and Herculaneum, and the sun, sea, and serene living of Capri and the Amalfi Coast will make this a truly memorable vacation experience. On this trip you can combine urban adventures in one of Italy’s most hectic cities, Naples, as well as peaceful relaxation along the coast. Info: For information about Capri and ferries to the island visit www.capritourism.com. For ferry schedules and everything else associated with the Amalfi Coast, visit www.amalfi.it. Recommended Plan CAPRI Stay on Capri for the first five To get to the town of Capri, after days and commute to Naples you’ve made it to the Marina Grande, by ferry, and to Pompeii and the main harbor on the island, take Herculaneum by ferry then the funicular, taxi or bus up the hill. train. Then for the last two At the Piazza Umberto I, you can nights pick a town on the enjoy the memorable view out onto Amalfi Coast — I would sug- the Bay of Naples. This is the perfect gest Amalfi itself — to use as piazza to have a seat on any one of the your base to explore that area. cafés and watch the world go by. 234 To Naples, Sorrento, Amalfi, Poitano, Ischia Grotta Azzura OPENROAD'SBESTOFITALY Villa Jovis V Torre di Damecuta ia Lo Pozzo & Tiberio MARINA Villa Imperiale San Michele GRANDE ANACAPRI Villa S. Michele Via i da Mamma i M V Paolino Giovanna a V ia Via Tiberio ia Chiesa rin S. Michelle a Anacapri Gran Tuoro de CAPRI Buca di Bacco Grotta Bianca La Residenza Via Via Caprile i Sopramonte Campannina da Gemma Via Matromonia Grotta Matromonia Quisisana Fortino S. Maria Parco di Certosa di Cetrella Augusto San Giacomo lla ra Belvedere se lia Villa Sarah Tragara ig Grotta Del rto e Via Faro i M Castiglione C d Via Tragara a d tra S MARINA PICCOLA NAPLES Procida Ischia Grotta Verde MAR TIRRENO CAPRI Hotel Eatery Capri i Info Office 0 300 600 Meters BAY OF NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST 235 From here you can walk – granted it’s a long way – or take a public bus northeast to the Palace of Tiberius, the biggest, best preserved Imperial villa on the island. You won’t find elaborate mosaic floors or statues in place here, and at first glance the site might seem disappointing, but what makes this place special is the sheer extent of the ruins located in such a superb setting.